text:
|Brakes, Suspension & Body Chassis The place to go for answers on brakes, suspension, camber, alignment and more.
|Thread Tools
|Display Modes
Illegal Alien
How To - Extensive Suspension Overhaul (Front and Rear)
Well, its finally that time. Ive been wanting to do this since March, and I finally did.
Decided to do some extensive suspension work, and make a thread for it to help out as many people as I can with this.
Im sure most, if not all of you know how to do your own suspension install, but there are some that need this info.
So, here we go
Tools / Materials needed (not all mentioned here, but Ill mention them as I go)
Car JackSuspension Work To Be Done
ShocksTotal Time Just around 5½ hours. Its less that this. It takes too much time to prep, paint, and clean stuff up. And take pictars!
1.I should mention that this is going to be done on my Focus wagon. All focus models (00-05) are just about the same in the front, so this should help with what ever focus, even the 06-09 models. I don't think theres much difference with the newer ones.Heres are some very useful diagrams I have found on the intra-webz. Very helpful stuff.
Front -
Now, lets move on to the install
Well begin with the front.
Start by loosening the front wheel nuts. Do not remove them. Just half a turn is fine.
Remember to Chalk your tires.
Im lowered, so getting a jack under the car isnt easy. Fortunately, I have some Lynx levelers. These are used for leveling R.V.s. But work perfect for raising the car just enough to get the jack under there.
Place the Jack stands in place.
Now fully remove your wheel/tire, and place it under the car for safety.
Using a 15mm wrench and a 5mm allen wrench, loosen the end link nut.
Remove the end link from the strut assembly; place the nut on the end link so you wont loose it. Place aside.
Having some one help you by pressing the brake pedal, use the breaker bar with a 32mm socket to loosen the axle retaining nut, and remove it. Heres my helper!
Remove the dust cap to reveal the bolts holding the caliper in place.
Use a 7mm allen to loosen the caliper bolts. I used one of these
Just loosen them, do not remove yet
Use a 15mm wrench to remove bolts holding the caliper bracket in place
Remove the bolts and the caliper assembly.
Separate the caliper from the bracket, youll need to remove the pads and retainer spring
Using a bungee cord, support the caliper from the spring/strut. Let it hang, youll be removing it later.
Remove the rotor from the hub
Using the 5mm allen and the 15mm wrench, loosen the outer tie rod nut.
It might be stuck, so I used one of these to separate the tie rod from the knuckle
Remove and set aside
Remove the bolt that holds the strut to the knuckle using a 15mm wrench
Using a T50 Torx (I used a 47, worked ok) and the 15mm wrench, loosen and remove the lower bolt that holds the knuckle to the lower control arm.
Use the 15mm wrench to loosen and remove the brake line, you might want to loosen this while its still on the knuckle. Much easier.
Remove the caliper and set aside.
Separate the knuckle from the strut. I gave it a couple of kicks. You might have to give the axle a tap to help it slide/release from the hub. I used a hammer and a small piece of wood to prevent any damage from tapping it.
Completely remove the knuckle from the lower control arm. It might take a little force.
Now, open to hood to access the strut mount nuts.
Use a 13mm socket and remove the nuts.
Remove the strut assembly
Use a set of spring compressors to compress the spring, just a little. Enough to release the tension from the strut mount.
Use a ¾ closed end (curved) wrench and a 6mm allen to loosen the strut nut
Separate the spring and strut mount from the strut
Remove the dust cover
Remove the bump-stop and the plastic dust cover holder thingamajiggy-
Now lets assemble our new struts. I bought a set of KYB AGXs.
Insert the plastic boot/dust cover holder thingy in place. The KYB shocks are a tad different from the Monroes I had, so the plastic piece doesnt go all the way down, but does stay in place.
Now, insert the bump-stop
Then the boot/dust cover
With the spring compressed, insert it to the strut. Then, the coil and strut mounts. Tighten your bolt to 35 ft-lbs
I had a co-worker take the knuckles to a shop to have the bearings pressed out and the new ones pressed in, with new hubs.
I also pressed out the studs, but didnt take pictures. However, I did for the rear, so look below for this.
In the mean time, I cleaned up the parts and did some painting. Nothing too fancy, but looks way better than it was before.
Now, moving on to the control arms...
With an 18mm or 11/16 socket, and closed end wrench, loosen and remove the bolt holding the front part of the control arm.
You might have to raise the engine a bit with the jack, to get the bolt out all the way.
With a 15mm and a 18mm socket or wrench, loosen and remove the smaller bolt, on the rear of the control arm, closest to the outside (tire).
Ok, here comes the tougher bolt. I had to use the breaker bar for this one. Use the 18mm or 11/16 socket to loosen and remove the inner bolt, on the rear of the control arm. Its on there pretty tight, so be careful. Use the 18mm closed en wrench to hold the nut on the top, like on the other bolts.
Once all bolts are off, wiggle the arm out
And, now out
Fortunately for me, I had picked up a set of used lcas from a good friend. So, I just refurbished those. I ground off the rivets holding the ball joint in place. And used a hammer to pound them out. I didnt get any pics of this process, though. Sorry. Its fairly easy.
Heres a pic with the old ball joints off
I cleaned up the lcas with a wire wheel
Then, sanded them a bit with 600 grit metal sand paper
And washed them up.
After they were all dry, I sprayed them with etching primer
Coat one
Coat two
Then I sprayed them with silver Duplicolor wheel paint
I let them dry for 2 days (more than enough).
I bought a set of Moog Ball Joints, part number K80067 for the 00-04 Focus. These are pretty great, theyre greasable, ulike the OEM joints.
They come with everything you need for installation, except washers. So, I bought some.
Install the greaser nipple to the ball joint assembly
Now, install the new ball joints in place
Bolt them up, I used two washer per bolt.
Huge difference comparing them
Control arm installation
Insert the control arm in place and install the front bolt. (Torque Specs below)
Then install the other two bolts
Torque specs -
Step 1 (inner rear bolt/nut) 74 ft-lbsAnd, now installed
Take your strut assembly and put it in place
Use your nuts to hold in strut in place, then tighten them to 18ft-lbs
Next, take your knuckle and put the ball joint heat shield in place
Insert the axle into the hub and then, on to the ball joint on the lca
Then, attach the knuckle to the strut. This might take some wiggling to get the strut to fully set into the knuckle. I used my jack to raise the arm/knuckle into place
After its fully inserted settled, insert your pinch bolt
Tighten in with a 15mm socket and torque to 66 ft-lbs
Afterwards, insert the ball joint pinch bolt and torque to 37 ft-lbs
Insert the tie rod into the knuckle, torque to 35 ft-lbs
And now, things should look like this
Next, insert the end link into the sway bar and strut, torque the buts to 37 ft-lbs
I replaced my old studs with ARP studs. Part number 100-7708. Heres a good thread on ARP studs that fit the Focus ARP Stud Info
Set it into place and tap the rear of the stud a little with a hammer
Using an old nut and a closed-end wrench ( I used a loop hole from an adjusting wrench) tight the nut so it pulls the stud into place
After theyre all in place, place your new (or old) rotor in place
Put the axle nut in place as well, youll need to torque this to 214 ft-lbs, but not until you have installed your brakes. That way, you can have some one help you by pressing on the brake pedal while you torque the nut. Remember, you can only use this nut a maximum of three times.
Next, well install the brakes! Take the caliper guide bolts and clean them up
After theyre all clean, you need to grease them up. Its best to add the grease in the guide (where theyre inserted in the caliper) Be sure to use high-temp grease only. And be sure to use enough. The guide bolts need to move freely and not seize.
Then, install your brake pads. Im using the same as my last sets, Hawk pads.
Place the rear pad into the caliper
Then, the front pad and the caliper bracket. Do not bolt the bracket just yet. Leaving it unbolted makes it very simple for you to place the retainer spring into place. If youve done SVT brakes before, you know what I mean.
Now, on to the retainer spring
I used a set of vise-grip pliers to hold the retainer and set it into place. As much as I tried, its tough to set it in place with out scratching the painted caliper. It's best to place one side of the spring into the holding hole, then the other, and then place it on the bracket.
Install the brake line to the caliper and use a 15mm wrench to tighten it.
Next, mount the brake assembly to the knuckle. Remember to use thread lock on the bolts prier to tightening them. Torque to 74 ft-lbs (could be wrong on this, so look it up to be sure)
Torque your caliper guide bolts to 21 ft-lbs
Now, things should look like this
At this point, youll need to bleed your brakes to get the air out. I suggest getting some speed bleeders.
Remember to torque your axle nut to 214 ft-lbs
Install your wheel, and torque your new (or used) nuts to 94 ft-lbs
Front should be all done!
Lets go to the rear!
Again, I raised the Focus a little with the lynx levelers
Loosen your wheel nuts
Place your jack right under your rear cross member and raise
Remove your wheel/tire and place under the car
Unhook the e-brake cable
Loosen the brake fluid line with a 15mm wrench
Use a 15mm and a 13mm wrench to loosen the remove the caliper bolts
Remove the caliper from the bracket/rotor and remove the brake line
Use a 15mm wrench or socket to remove the caliper bracket
Remove the rotor
In these next steps, Ill be removing the spindle and hub just to clean them up. Ill be replacing the wheel studs as well, so removing this make things easier. You dont have to do so, unless you want to clean things up as well or youre replacing the bearing. If So, go here Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement
Use a 13mm socket to loosen and remove the bolts holding the spindle, behind the trailing arm
Afterwards, remove the spindle and dust cover from the trailing arm
Set aside for future cleaning
Use a 14mm socket and wrench to remove the sway bar end link
Remove the bolts holding the sway using a 13mm socket or wrench
Remember to save your bolts
Place your jack under the control arm, and raise it a bit to put some tension on it.
Then use a 15mm socket or wrench to loosen and remove the control arm bolt on the trailing arm
While youre there, loosen and remove the bolt holding the shock to the trailing arm.
After removing the control arm bolt, slowly lower the jack. Once all tension is released from the spring, remove it
Use an 18mm and 19mm socket to remove the control arm bolt
You might have to wiggle the arm a bit to remove it
The results of using a large diameter sway with non-reinforced control arms
This is my drivers side, looks like I replaced it just in time!
I actually had one snap on me, thats why its welded together
Locate the bolt that holds the top part of the shock to the chassis, use a 15mm socket to remove. I had to use 3 extensions to get to it
On the drivers side, you have to remove (or move to the side) the heat shield to access the top bolt
After some cleaning
Back to the spindles/hubs
I used a couple of old cheapo sockets I had and a table vice to press out the studs
After some major cleaning with the wheel grinder.
And some painting
I used some primer, and silver duplicolor wheel paint, then clear coated them.
Lets begin with the install by placing the rear lca into place. You might have to wiggle it a bit to get it in there. After its in place, put the bolt through the hole to hold it in place. Do not tighten the bolt, youll need to wait till the cars weight is on them (ride height). It should be torqued to 111 ft-lbs
Place the coil spring on the lca perch
Place your jack under your lca, then raise it slowly until youre able to screw the bolt in place.
Use your 15mm socket / wrench to bolt it up. Remember not to tighten them until the cars weight is on them.
Put your shock in place and torque bolt to 85 ft-lbs (13 ft-lbs for ZX3/4/5s). I used KYB GR-2s for my rear. Not vary many options for wagons.
And screw in your lower shock bolt. Remember not to tighten it yet. This should be torqued to 66 ft-lbs
Take the spindle assembly and put in place, remember to use thread lock on your bolts.
Press in your new studs using an old lug/wheel nut and a open end wrench, like so
And all 4
Now, put your new (or old) rotor in place
Next, well be installing the caliper bracket, but the guide pins will need to be cleaned up and greased. Use high-temp grease only
Separate the rubber boot from the pin and clean separately
After theyre all clean, put the boot back in place, and lube the pin. As you place the pin back into the hole on the bracket, you have to make use to get all the air our. If theres air in the hole, itll push the pin out.
And bolt the bracket in place. Torque the bolts to 41 ft-lbs
Before installing the caliper, youll need to push the piston in, and for those of you that have done rear disc brake jobs, know it can be a B
[Advertisement] Doing your own brake job? Having a hard time using that darn cube thingy?
Well, say goodbye to that awfull cube with this nifty set of caliper tools from Harbor Freight!
Now pushing in the piston is as simple as turning a lever!
Thanks Harbor Freight, You saved my life! [/Advertisement] lmao!
When pushing in the piston, remember to leave it in this position
Its for the guide bump on the brake pad
I used Hawk Pas as well for the rear
Place your pads on the rotor/bracket
Connect the brake fluid line to the caliper. Its best to do this before mounting the caliper to the bracket.
Mount the caliper to the bracket and tighten the bolts to 26 ft-lbs
Re-engage the e-brake cable
Heres yours truly workin
Your set-up should look something line this now
Next, well install the rear sway. I picked up a set of Energy Suspension bushings and end links. The sway bar I have is an Eibach 25mm.
Pic for reference and part numbers
Separate the bushings from the bracket and grease the inside. Not too much, just a small amount is fine
Put things together and mount the sway to the sub-frame. Torque the bushing brackets to 35 ft-lbs
And remember to grease the bushing
Install the end links, but do not tighten them. You might not be able to get the nut on the bolt anyways, till the car is lowered
Dont forget to bleed your brakes.
Put your wheels/tires back on and torque the wheel nuts to 94 ft-lbs
Lower the car, and now you can tighten/torque the control arm and shock bolts.
Fallow these brake-bedding instructions and youre good to go!
I know I didnt take all the pics necessary and I missed something. So, ple'ase let me know so I can update the information.
I'm back, Itchbes!
Focus Addict
Very complete write up but you have your tires rotating in the wrong direction the arrow should be at the top of the tire facing the front of the car and also on the front struts you shouldn't tighten up the top nuts until the car has weight on the front. Good job on this though it would take a lot more time than i have to take pics of everything.
"Don't make me angry, you wouldn't like me when I'm angry"
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Illegal Alien
Yes, i know about the tire. I put it on to take the pic, since i need to get the alignmwnt done first. And as for the strut, i actually researched that, and read both arguments. So, either on or off will work.
I'm back, Itchbes!
Illegal Alien
Yup, i just don't use the sensors.
I'm back, Itchbes!
Token Engin-nerd
One question, how did you not exceed the post character limit!?!?
nice job
oh also, is it SVT brakes upgrade or is it advancetrac? they are not the same!
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
coffee, have some
Damn playa, you make that look easy!
Great write-up, I'll be doing some bushings soon so this will help.
Oh, sorry those bump stops weren't go-fast red. Now I feel bad giving you black ones to install on all that prettyness!
2004 ZX3 - Twighlight Blue_____________________________________ _ _ _ _ _ _
Illegal Alien
And i thought the SVT and advance trac was the same, they both have ABS, right?
Thanks again bro!
I'm back, Itchbes!
Token Engin-nerd
the SVT rears are bigger than the 00-04 (including advancetrac) fronts! and the advancetrac/ST rears are just tiny.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Illegal Alien
Yeah, the SVT rear rotos are bigger (by a small amount) than the stock fronts. So, mine are SVT's
But, on the CFM and NewEdgePerformance, they list all the rear discs the same. Same part number for all rear rotors.
I'm back, Itchbes!
|Bookmarks & Social Networks
|Thread Tools
|Display Modes
Linear Mode
|Similar Threads
|Thread Starter
|Last Post
|The Ford Focus - General History and Information
|General Car Chat Lounge
|DTC Codes (Detailed Descriptions)
|General Technical Chat
|New Volkswagen Rabbit!!
|General Car Chat Lounge
|Ford Focus: Suspension & Brakes
|Brakes, Suspension & Body Chassis


text:
Hello all,
I've created a simple and short (20 pages ) document, which covers most of the basic CosmosEx questions, which get repeated too often:
It might get updated in the future, with me answering more of your questions Yes, some of them ask and answer the same thing by using different words or from different side, but I hope this way people will more easily find the thing they need to know.
It's not as good and technical as the one from DrCoolZic, but this one is focused mainly on the different questions and how to simply do stuff, so it's not a replacement, but a complementary document.
Check it out and tell me if it might be helpful
Note: There's also a CosmosEx guide by DrCoolZic:
...and a quick guide on CosmosEx v2, by tIn:

subset: commoncrawl


text:
Seven Common Windows 8 Error Messages
Windows 8 error messages rarely describe what you did to cause the event or, even worse, how to fix the problem. Following are some of the most common Windows 8 error messages, notifications, and just plain confusing attempts at conversation. Find a message that matches what you're experiencing and then read how to handle the situation as gracefully as Windows 8 will allow.
Would you like to install this device software?
Meaning: Are you sure that this software is free from viruses, spyware, and other harmful things?
Probable cause: A window similar to the one shown appears when you try to install or update a driver for one of your computer's parts.
Solutions: If you're sure the file is safe, click the Install button. But if this message appears unexpectedly, or you think it may not be safe, click the Don't Install button.
Do you want to save changes?
Meaning: You haven't saved your work in a program, and your work is about to be lost.
Probable cause: You're trying to close an application, sign out, or restart your computer before telling a program to save the work you've accomplished.
Solutions: Look in the window's title bar for the program's name. Then find that program on your desktop (or click its name on the taskbar to bring it to the forefront). Finally, save your work by choosing Save from the program's File menu (or tab) or clicking the program's Save icon. Don't want to save the file? Then click Don't Save to discard your work and move on.
How do you want to open this type of file?
Meaning: The dialog box appears when Windows doesn't know which program created the file that you double-clicked.
Probable cause: Windows programs add hidden secret codes, known as file extensions, onto the ends of filenames. When you double-click a Notepad file, for example, Windows spots the file's secret, hidden file extension and uses Notepad to open the file. But if Windows doesn't recognize the file's secret code letters, this error message appears.
Solutions: If you know what program created the mysterious file, choose it from the list of programs offered in the message. (Click More Options to see other programs, but those programs will rarely be able to open the file.)
If Windows doesn't offer any valid suggestions, however, choose Look for an App in the Store. You may need to download or buy an app from Start screen's Store app.
Malware detected: Windows Defender is taking action
Meaning: When the built-in Windows 8 antivirus program, Windows Defender, finds a potentially dangerous file on your computer, it lets you know with this message. Windows Defender then removes the file so it can't harm your computer or files.
This particular notification looks identical on both the desktop and the Start screen; it always appears in the screen's top-right corner.
Probable cause: A dangerous file — malware — probably arrived through e-mail, a flash drive, a networked computer, or a website. Windows is removing the file so it can't do any harm.
Solutions: You needn't do anything. Windows Defender has already caught and removed the evildoer.
Removable disk: choose what to do with removable drives
Meaning: When this window appears, tell Windows what to do with the flash drive or memory card you've inserted into your computer.
Probable cause: You've just slid a flash drive (a stick of memory) into your computer's USB port, or you've put a memory card, perhaps from a camera, into a card reader attached to your computer.
Solutions: Most of the time, you'll click the Open Folder to View Files option. That lets you see your stored files and copy or move them to other folders in your computer. But you have three other options:
Speed Up My System (Windows ReadyBoost). Click this only if you plan on leaving the item permanently attached to your computer. On slower computers that need more memory, this option can speed them up.
Configure this Drive for Backup (File History). Click this to leave the item permanently attached to store backups. With a large flash drive, it works fine with File History.
Take no action. Clicking this simply gets rid of the message. To access the item later, open File Explorer from the desktop, and open the card from there.
See the letter listed after Removable Disk in the message? That's the letter of the drive Windows has assigned to your item.
Add your Microsoft account
Meaning: You must sign in with a Microsoft account to perform several tasks in Windows 8. If you don't have a Microsoft account, you'll see this message. Microsoft accounts let you reap the most benefits from Windows 8.
Probable cause: You may have tried to use the Mail, People, Calendar or Messenger app, which all require a Microsoft account. You also need one to download an app from the Microsoft Store.
Solutions: Sign up for a free Microsoft account.
You don't currently have permission to access this folder
Meaning: If you see the dialog box shown here, it means Windows won't let you peek inside the folder you're trying to open. (The folder's name appears in the message's title bar.) A similar message appears when Windows won't let you peek inside a file.
Probable cause: The file or folder belongs to somebody with a different user account.
Solutions: If you hold an Administrator account, you can open files and folders from other people's user accounts by clicking Continue. If you don't have an Administrator account, however, you're locked out.
If an account holder wants to let others see inside the file or folder, he or she should copy or move the item into the Public folder.
For more information about Windows 8 and its features, explore Windows 8 For Dummies, available online.


text:
Two things I did last night.
This one was fun since I used a photo as reference. You learn a lot
when you draw that way.
This was an experiment with color halftoning. The background is a photo
I took in San Diego.
Sunday, January 22, 2012
Coontail and Quick Joey Small
Two things I did last night.
2 comments:
- Salomon Fenix said...
Your draws looks more underground/ alternative than creepy but are nice.
- January 22, 2012 at 7:14 PM
- José said...
lard allmighty, your crazy good! did you actually draw and color them both in one night!?
- February 1, 2012 at 6:32 PM
Subscribe to: Post Comments (Atom)


text:
With the finals of the CAF Africa Cup of Nations just over a month away, Niger coach Gernot Rohr is shaping his team's final preparations ahead of their second appearance at the continental finals. At the end of November, Rohr undertook a speedy trip south to see for himself the facilities in South Africa for the 19 January - 10 February finals, before rushing back for a friendly game in Morocco.
FIFA.com caught up with the coach and asked him about the preparations for the tournament.
Turning disadvantage to advantage
For Rohr, the 2013 finals will be the second time in a row that he will be involved in the showpiece of African football. But unlike earlier this year in Gabon and Equatorial Guinea, when his Gabon team were considered one of the outside favourites, the Franco-German and his Niger side will arrive in South Africa as one of the rank outsiders. In contrast to their opponents in Group B of the competition - Ghana, Mali and Congo DR - the Mena have only a handful of professionals who ply their trade in European leagues, and those typically play for clubs in the lower tiers in France, Belgium and Sweden.
The majority of Rohr's squad will come from local clubs in Niger and in other African countries, with Ouwo Moussa Maazou being the only recognisable name. The explosive 24-year-old forward has played for Monaco, CSKA Moscow and Rohr's previous club Bordeaux, and he is currently with Tunisian team Etoile du Sahel.
Rohr, however, refuses to see his squad's inexperience at the highest level as a disadvantage. "If it is a disadvantage, it is something that we can change into an advantage," he insisted. "We are a real team without any stars. All players have the same goal and objective and there are no big egos involved. The players are highly motivated and the fact that all of them are keen to play for a big club, preferably in Europe, acts as a further motivating factor."
Rohr, who remains a legend in Bordeaux - the club for whom he played over 350 matches, winning three French championships and whom he took to the UEFA Cup final as coach - is aware that he will have a very difficult undertaking to escape the so-called Group of Death. "It is a very difficult group. Even though we are huge outsiders we are not without hope of advancing. We are ranked only 30th in Africa, but we have also managed to climb 30 places in the world rankings, so everything will be possible. Our first match against Mali will be very important and if we want to do well, a good start is paramount."
Stunning Guinea to book the ticket
The former defender took over the Niger coaching reins in September and immediately faced a daunting task as the Mena took on fancied Guinea for a place at the Nations Cup finals. The Syli Nationale were ranked 21 places higher than their opponents and won the first match 1-0 at home. "But we always believed in our chances," Rohr said. "The return leg went as planned, we were strong in defence and waited for our opportunities. After the break we upped the tempo and fully deserved the 2-0 victory, which took us to South Africa."
The team has also managed a 4-3 victory against Liberia and held west African giants Senegal to a 1-1 draw in friendly internationals. "These results were important, as the team had failed to win and score goals in the games before. I am satisfied with the way the team is developing," Rohr said. "The atmosphere in the team is terrific and even though the local-based players had not played league matches for several weeks before reporting for international duty, they did very well. Although they did not have much match practice, we managed to overcome that with a lot of training."
Rohr coached the Gabonese national side for two years and helped them equal their best ever showing at the AFCON by reaching the quarter-finals. Comparatively, he and his new team will be flying below the radar. "Playing with Niger in South Africa will be very different than playing with Gabon at the finals at home. Then, we had all the fans behind us, but it could also be an advantage as there will be little pressure on us."
Rohr said that another difference between Gabon and Niger were the resources available. "With Gabon there were virtually unlimited resources, but Niger is also trying very hard. We had a reception with the state president and they hired a plane for us to take us to the game in Guinea. It was an army plane and all the players sat like soldiers in the Hercules. I sat upfront next to the pilot! But we got there safely and now we are all looking forward to making the trip to South Africa."


text:
How to Make the Perfect Turkey and Gravy
Turkey is an inexpensive main course. There's no need to get too fancy with it. Simple cooking techniques work just fine. But if you want to try something a little fancy, but not too pricey this year for Thanksgiving, you can't go wrong with the maple-glazed turkey offered here:
Start with the turkey
The bird called for in this recipe is large; make sure that it fits in your oven.
Special equipment: Large roasting pan and rack to fit, instant-read or digital/probe thermometer, fine mesh strainer, fat skimmer (optional)
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Cooking time: 5 hours
Yield: 15 to 20 servings
20-pound turkey, preferably fresh, giblets and neck removed and set aside
2 oranges
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature
Salt and pepper to taste
4 sprigs fresh thyme
4 sprigs fresh sage
2 cups low-sodium chicken broth
2 carrots, cut into 2-inch pieces
2 stalks celery, cut into 2-inch pieces
1 onion, cut into eighths
3 tablespoons maple syrup
Adjust the oven rack to the lowest setting. Preheat the oven to 250 degrees.
Wash the turkey inside and out and pat it dry with paper towels. Roll the oranges on your work surface while applying pressure to release the juices, and then prick the skins all over with a fork. Rub the turkey cavity with 2 tablespoons of the butter and season with salt and pepper. Insert the whole oranges, thyme, and sage into the bird's cavity.
Truss the turkey with kitchen twine. Rub the turkey all over with the remaining 6 tablespoons of butter. Pour the chicken broth into the pan and scatter the vegetables evenly over the bottom. Place the turkey on a rack in the roasting pan, breast side down.
Roast the turkey for 3 hours, basting 3 or 4 times. Turn the turkey so that the breast faces up and roast for 1 hour more, basting twice. Increase the oven temperature to 400 degrees, brush the turkey with the maple syrup, and roast until the skin is crisp and a thermometer inserted between the leg and thigh registers 170 degrees, about 1 hour more. The turkey should sit out of the oven for at least 30 minutes before serving.
When rotating the bird, try wearing clean rubber gloves to insulate your hands from the heat and slippery bird. Or wear hot mitts with pieces of foil between the bird and the mitts. If the turkey is browning too quickly at any point, simply cover the browning parts with aluminum foil.
Prepare the stock
In conjunction with the turkey, you are certain to want gravy. You start by making stock, while the turkey is still roasting:
Reserved giblets and neck
4 cups low-sodium chicken broth
4 cups water
2 carrots, cut into 2-inch pieces
2 stalks celery, cut into 2-inch pieces
1 onion, unpeeled, cut into eighths
4 parsley stems
4 sprigs fresh thyme
1 bay leaf
Combine all the ingredients in a stockpot. Bring to a boil, uncovered, over medium-high heat.
Turn down the heat and simmer until reduced to about 3 cups liquid, about 2 hours. Cool.
Remove the giblets and chop finely. Remove any meat from the neck and chop finely. Set the meat aside.
Strain the stock and discard the veggies and herbs.
Prepare the gravy
Gather the following ingredients and follow these steps to turn your stock into gravy.
Pan drippings
1/2 cup white wine
5 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/3 cup flour
3 cups Stock
Salt and pepper to taste
When the turkey is done place it on a carving board or serving platter to rest, covering it loosely with foil to keep it warm.
Pour the pan drippings from the roasting pan through a fine mesh strainer, and then use a fat separator to eliminate the excess fat. Alternatively, pour the drippings into a measuring cup (after straining them) and skim off the fat. Measure up to 1 cup of the pan drippings and add it back to the roasting pan. Place the roasting pan on a burner on high heat and bring to a boil.This specially designed cup isolates fat at the top so that pan drippings can be poured from bottom.
Add the white wine to the boiling pan drippings and stir, scraping up any browned bits that are on the bottom of the pan. Boil for about 2 minutes to combine the flavors and thicken the pan drippings. Strain through a fine mesh strainer.
In a clean saucepan, melt the butter and stir in the flour. Cook over medium heat for about 2 minutes until golden brown. Slowly add the pan drippings and enough of the stock to make the gravy have the desired consistency; you may not use all of the stock. Whisk to prevent lumping.
Stir in the reserved chopped giblets and neck meat, if desired. Season with salt and pepper and serve with the turkey.
Per serving: Calories 584 (From Fat 261); Fat 29g (Saturated 10g); Cholesterol 258mg; Sodium 203mg; Carbohydrate 4g (Dietary Fiber 0g); Protein72g.