text:
BERLIN – While much of
the discussion at Tuesday's final Worcester County budget work session was a
formality, controversy emerged over the tourism advertising budget and the
elimination of 15 take-home vehicles for county government staff.
The tourism budget, in
the proposed fiscal year 2011 county budget saw its advertising spending
doubled from $150,000 to $300,000.
One Worcester County
Commissioner, Bobby Cowger, said he was having a tough time with an additional
$150,000 for tourism advertising in this bad economy, especially when staffers
are losing their take-home vehicles.
"You're going to take
vehicles away from employees and kill their morale … I think priorities are way
off base," said Cowger.
Fifteen take-home
vehicles were eliminated from the budget during budget deliberations earlier
this month, saving $16,000.
"Tourism is the number
one economic engine here in Worcester County," said Commissioner Louise Gulyas.
A room tax increase in
Worcester County could be funneled to the Worcester County Tourism Department,
headed by Lisa Challenger, Gulyas suggested.
"Some of that money
should be designated to Lisa [Challenger] not from the municipalities but from
the county," Gulyas said. "That would solve a lot of the tourism problems. I
think that's something we need to look at right away."
Eliminating take-home
vehicles is a cut, said Commissioner Judy Boggs, but the tourism advertising
budget is something else.
"When we put extra money
into tourism, there is a return on our investment," said Boggs.
For each tourism ad
dollar spent, the county sees $1.50 back in revenue, Commission President Bud
Church said.
The take-home cars could
be returned to employees if county staff could find $16,000 from the rest of
the budget, Church suggested.
The $150,000 tourism ad
budget has been enough for the last 10 to 15 years, Cowger said, questioning
the sudden increase in funding.
"The only thing the
businesses in Snow Hill have asked for is the advertising money," said
Ocean City just doubled
its advertising budget, Shockley said, which means that the resort, which
depends on tourism, clearly feels that tourism advertising is a priority.
The connection between
the two budget items was not clear to some.
"You're comparing apples
and oranges," said Gulyas. "It has nothing to do with the cars people take
"You're setting a bad
precedent out here," said Cowger.
How can the county tell
all departments to cut their budget requests by 10 percent, then double part of
the tourism department's budget, Cowger asked.
"The tax money is paid
by tourism and it should go back to tourism," said Gulyas.
Later in the discussion,
Cowger pointed out that Sheriff's deputies, some of whom live in Nanticoke or
Wicomico County are allowed to take their cars home, which he feels is not
Commissioner James
Purnell, although earlier saying that he agreed with Cowger, made a motion to
leave the tourism budget and the take-home vehicle cut as proposed.
The commissioners voted
5 to 2 on his motion to keep the tourism advertising money increase and the
cuts to take home vehicles, with Cowger and Shockley voting against.


text:
Homebrewing For Dummies, 2nd Edition
Read an ExcerptDownload Acrobat
Table of Contents
Author Information
Part I: First Things First.
Chapter 1: Welcome to the Wonderful World of Wort.
Chapter 2: Setting Up Your Beeraphernalia.
Chapter 3: Creating Your Own Department of Sanitation.
Part II: It's in There: The Nuts and Bolts of Beer.
Chapter 4: Malt: A Tale of Two Sources (Grain and Extract).
Chapter 5: Hop Heaven.
Chapter 6: Yeast and Fermentation.
Chapter 7: On the Water Front.
Chapter 8: Adjuncts and Flavorings.
Chapter 9: Making Your Brew Bionic: Additives, Preservatives, Finings, and Clarifiers.
Part III: Ready, Set, Brew!
Chapter 10: Beginner Brewing Directions.
Chapter 11: Intermediate Brewing Directions.
Chapter 12: Homebrewing Directions for the Serious Beer Geek.
Chapter 13: Bottling Your Brew.
Chapter 14: Kegging: Bottling's Big Brother.
Part IV: Homebrew Recipes.
Chapter 15: Ale Recipes.
Chapter 16: Lager Recipes.
Chapter 17: Mixed-Style Recipes.
Part V: Alternative Brewing.
Chapter 18: In-Cider Information.
Chapter 19: A Meading of the Minds.
Chapter 20: Going Green: Being an Eco-Friendly Homebrewer.
Chapter 21: Gluten-Free Brewing.
Part VI: Putting Your Brew to the Test.
Chapter 22: Storing and Pouring.
Chapter 23: You Can't Judge a Bock by Its Cover: Evaluating Beer.
Chapter 24: Troubleshooting.
Chapter 25: Homebrew Competitions.
Part VII: The Part of Tens.
Chapter 26: Ten (or so) Ways to D.I.G.I.B.I.Y. (Do It, Grow It, Build It Yourself).
Chapter 27: Ten Gizmos That Can Make Your Brewing Easier.
Chapter 28: Just the FAQs: Ten (or so) Frequently Asked Questions.
Appendix: Ingredients: The Building Blocks of Beer.

subset: commoncrawl


text:
The Marana Police Department, in partnership with the Marana Health Center, Pima County Sheriff's Department, Marana-Foothills Optimist Club, Marana Mortuary, and Pima County Wastewater, encourage citizens, businesses and schools to join us in sharing information about drug awareness and preventive measures.
The Police Department provides this opportunity for the proper disposal of unused and/or expired prescription drugs. Prescription and over-the-counter tablets and capsules will be collected. For safety and confidentiality reasons, any items turned over for collection cannot be returned. We cannot accept drugs from commercial organizations. The service is free and anonymous, no questions asked.


text:
Lifetime Sets Army Wives Farewell Special Airdate
Feb 12, 2014 10:49 AM EST
Lifetime will say goodbye to Army Wives next month with a two-hour farewell special, TVLine reports. Army Wives: A Finale Salute will air Sunday, March 16 at 9/8c. The retrospective will feature interviews with cast… Read more


text:
view our prices page for a full list of packages »
Welcome to the premier Indoor Paintball Site in Oldham Indoor.
You don't have to be Arnie to go commando at our brilliant indoor paintball site. Bring your mates together and march them onto the battleground at Manchester North. You'll go head to head in thrilling military combat simulations which will challenge and entertain you in equal measure (and probabl... ...
Located to the north east of Manchester in the outskirts of Oldham. Easily accessible from all over Lancashire. Located on Fields Road in Chadderton, not far from the A663 and the A62. ...


text:
Posted: Sep 30, 2007
Head coach Jerry Smith, on game: "You have to give Cal credit. They played a good game and they had a lot of energy, especially after they scored that first goal. When the underdog scores first in a game, it usually gives them a bit of energy to keep going. Despite falling behind, we had our chances to get back into the game, but we just couldn't do it."
Smith, on learning from every game: "We try to learn from every game. We are going to watch the film and figure out what went wrong and try and come back better in our next game. I think that this team will continue to improve and we will play our best soccer at the end of the season."


text:
"It just likes a movies preview" - It is just like a movie preview
"For being an active reader, before I read I have to look around the title, pictures, and captions, first and last sentence" - To be an active reader, I have to look at the title, pictures, captions and the first and last sentence before I even begin to read.
"It helped me to create a big picture of the article that made me understand articles more easily" - This creates a 'big picture' of the article that helps me to understand it better
"the article-A New Dawn" - the article "A New Dawn"
"It was about a young Cuban Lester Moreno Perezs escape story" - drop the 'a'
if it was 'a young Cuban's escape story' the 'a' would be fine as it would be modifying 'Cuban', but since you put the name in there, you wouldn't say 'a Lester Moreno Perez'
"Even though I didnt agree with Lesters decisions, but I still learned something from him, about a person who wants to succeed they have to be persistent. Thats what I learned from the article and how I improved by the reading."
'even though' and 'but' don't go together, use one or the other, but not both
Even though I didn't agree with Lester's decisions, I still learned something from him. If a person wants to succeed, they have to be persistent.


text:
Terms of Use
These are the terms and conditions which will apply to your purchase of products, services and other goods ("Goods") from the SkinCR web site at https://skincr.com/ (the "Website").
These terms and conditions form a legally binding contract between us and you. Your acceptance of the terms and conditions is given when you purchase Goods from us. You should read these terms and conditions carefully before buying anything from this Website.
We reserve the right to change the terms and conditions under which the Website and the Goods are provided. Any such change in terms and conditions will be effective to all new orders once included in the text of these terms and conditions and published on the Website. You should check the terms and conditions posted on the Website periodically to ensure that you are aware of and comply with the current version.
If you have any questions about the terms and conditions, the Goods or the Website please contact us using the online contact form at this website.
Part 1 – Information about the Website and the Goods
We try to make sure that all information on the Website, including descriptions of our Goods, and listed prices, are accurate and correct at all times. However, mistakes do happen. We will try to resolve all information errors the Website as soon as reasonably possible, and if we reasonably think that such an error has affected your purchase of Goods we will try to let you know. However, because we take these steps we will not be liable to you for any errors on the Website.
You should bear in mind that buying products over the internet provides a different shopping experience to buying in-store. In particular you acknowledge that:
The colors which are shown for the Goods on the Website will depend on many factors – including your display settings.
All sizes and measurements are approximate.
All Goods are subject to availability - we may not be able to supply your order.
Any delivery estimates given on the Website or by email are estimates only.
You are responsible for ensuring that your login details, password and all other details in relation to your account remain confidential at all times.
Part 2 – Purchasing Goods
You make an offer to purchase a product from us (your "Order") by completing the staged process on the Website as set out below:
Adding product to your shopping basket
Checkout step 1 – Login details
Checkout step 2 – address details
Checkout step 3 – payment details
Confirmation of order
Your Order only constitutes an offer to purchase Goods from us, and does not form a binding contract until accepted by us. Where you order more than one product your Order contains a series of offers for each product individually.
On receipt of your Order, we will send you an Order acknowledgement email to the email address which you provide in the Order process. This Order acknowledgement email will contain your Order number and details of the Goods ordered. Note that this email is only to acknowledge that your order has been received, and is not acceptance by us of any offers to purchase Goods.
An offer made by you to purchase a product shall only be deemed to be accepted by us when we dispatch that product to you or to your nominated store as selected by you and send you an Order dispatch email which includes details of the product. We reserve the right to refuse any offers in an Order prior to acceptance. If a product is not available we will include details of the unavailable product in the Order dispatch email. A product which is not available will not be included in the contract for a product which is dispatched.
Part 3 – Returning Goods
Purchased Goods (outside of the exceptions mentioned below) can be returned for an exchange or refund within 1 month/30 days of the order having been shipped out from one of our warehouses/distributions centers.
The following Goods are non-returnable:
Custom orders
Final sale items
Wholesale orders
Prior to sending any item(s) back a return authorization number must be obtained by Contacting our Customer Service Department. This authorization number is valid for only thirty (30) days from the ship-out date of the original order
The authorization number must be clearly written on each package. If this number is not on your package it will be refused. Credit or adjustment is given on mistakes that are our fault, provided you Contact our Customer Service Department within five (5) days from receipt of merchandise.
General returns/exchange conditions:
We are NOT responsible for lost packages being returned. We are not responsible for packages dropped off and not signed for. Be sure to give us a secured address.
Health regulations stipulate that products that are soiled, worn, damaged, or laundered CAN NOT be taken back. If we receive such goods we will charge you the cost of shipping and return the items to you.
Any customer doing excessive returns will be taken off our mailing list and no further orders will ever be accepted.
There will be a $35.00 charge on all checks that do not clear or for charge backs.
Any fraudulent activities are reported to your local police department for prosecution.
Returns for which the customer ordered incorrectly, will be charged a 15% restocking fee and freight return.
Absolutely NO returns accepted unless the merchandise is in original cartons in new condition. Credit will not be issued for returned material that has been marked, altered, or abused.
NO returns are accepted freight collect or COD. Send all returns prepaid and insured for current value.
Absolutely NO returns are accepted after thirty (30) days from date of the ship-out date of the original order.
Damaged, lost or short shipments should be reported to your postal office immediately. Then contact us so that we can reship the merchandise and place a claim. Keep damaged goods and containers until notified otherwise.
Part 4 – General terms relating to our relationship with you
We will not be responsible for the performance of any obligations under these terms and conditions in the case of an event outside of our reasonable control (force majeure), including (but not limited to) strikes, lockouts, failures of third party systems or networks, acts of god, fire, earthquake, storm, flood or other natural disaster, civil unrest, acts of terrorism, deliberate sabotage of or malicious damage to equipment or data or for damage to or destruction of premises or equipment.
All notices which we need to give to you under these terms and conditions will be sent by us to your registered e-mail address.
These terms and conditions set out the entire agreement between you and us in respect of the sale, purchase and use of the Goods. They supersede any previous agreement or understanding in relation to the subject matter hereof. They may only be varied where separately agreed in writing between you and us.
If any provision of these terms and conditions is held by any competent authority to be invalid or unenforceable in whole or in part, the validity of the other provisions (and the remainder of the provision in question) shall be unaffected.
Save to the extent that you exercise your right as a consumer to bring an action in or rely on the laws of your country of domicile, the interpretation, construction, effect and enforceability of these terms and conditions shall be governed by International Law, and you and we agree to submit to the non-exclusive jurisdiction/courts of our choice for the determination of disputes.
Notes & Disclaimers:
We do our best to ensure that the information on the Website is accurate and helpful at all times. However, we cannot ultimately warrant the accuracy of any information and cannot be held liable for any use or reliance you may make of or put on it except as specifically agreed with us in any further agreement we may make with you in writing.
We do our best to ensure that the Website operates properly at all times, but we make no warranties as to the availability or accessibility of the Website, and (save as otherwise set out in these notices and disclaimers) we will not be liable for any damages, loss, costs or expenses incurred by you as a result of any lack of availability or accessibility of the Website.
Any link (be it a hypertext link or other referral device) used on the Website is provided solely for the use and convenience of the visitor. The link does not represent any endorsement or recommendation by us and does not mean that we have any association with the linked website. We are not responsible for the content of any websites that have links with the Website or for the legal consequences of your entering into any contracts with the third parties that provide these linked websites and we do not accept any liability for any loss, damage, expense, costs or liability whatsoever incurred by you as a result.
We will not be liable for any loss, damage, expense, costs, delays or other liability whatsoever (including without limitation any financial losses such as loss of profit) which you may incur as a result of any event beyond our reasonable control (including without limitation any failure of transmission, communication, computer or other facilities or your inability to access the Website for any reason or any failure, error or delay in the sending or receiving of any notice or communication or instruction through the post or any electronic medium).
Nothing within these conditions operates so as to exclude, limit or restrict our liability for death or personal injury.
Where you deal as a consumer, nothing in the above exclusions affects your statutory rights.
All Intellectual Property Rights and goodwill in or relating to the contents of the Website belong to either ourselves or to our suppliers.
In particular, the trade marks displayed are registered and nothing contained in these conditions or the Website should be construed as granting by implication, estoppel, personal bar, or otherwise, any license or right to use any of the trade marks without our permission. However, copying and printing of those web pages which contain the trade marks is permitted within the scope of the license contained at below.
You may download to a local hard disk and print extracts from the Website solely for personal, non-commercial use. You may also recopy downloaded extracts to others for their personal, non commercial use.
You may not reproduce part or all of the contents of the Website in any form unless it is for personal, non commercial use.
You may not copy or otherwise incorporate into or store in any other Website, electronic retrieval system, publication or other work any of the content of the Website in any form (whether hard copy, electronic or other).
You may not frame or link to the Website or any part of it without our express permission.
The interpretation, construction, effect and enforce-ability of this agreement shall be governed by International Law, and you agree to submit to the jurisdiction/courts of our choice for the determination of disputes.


text:
Tell us why:
It's impossible to choose a favorite really. I like how the track's kind of surprising. And a waltz (I think?). Other current faves are Golden Slumbers and Your Mother Should Know.
Favourite Album:
Let It Be
Tell us why:
You get such a sense of them recording it.


text:
Moscow, 7 July 2013
The purpose of the workshop was to expand the G20 Development Working Group's (DWG) dialogue with representatives from developing countries, especially low-income developing countries, on the lessons learned from their own experiences in designing and implementing inclusive green growth strategies. The workshop provided the opportunity to examine in-depth the practical application and experiences on the ground with the implementation of some of the specific tools highlighted in the Annex to the G20 report "A Toolkit of Policy Options to Support Inclusive Green Growth" or "IGG Toolkit Report". The workshop promoted the sharing of experiences on strategies, policies and instruments for inclusive green growth and presented the state of play of the Dialogue Platform on Inclusive Green Investment (DPIGI).
The discussion contributed to advancing the DWG's objectives in three respects:
This workshop was organised by the OECD with input from the other International Organisations (AfDB, UN, World Bank) at the request of the Russian Presidency and other G20 members. Many G20 members attended along with ten developing country representatives: Cambodia, Dominican Republic, Ethiopia, Kenya, Moldova, Mozambique, Philippines, Rwanda, Vietnam, and the Minister of Energy in Sierra Leone.
Mainstreaming Green Growth into Sierra Leone's Agenda for Prosperity 2013-2017
Pathways for Inclusive Green Growth in Cambodia
Ethiopia's Climate Resilient Green Economy
Use of Strategic environmental assessment (SEA) to promote Inclusive Green Growth
Towards Inclusive Green Growth
Progress on the Viet Nam Green Growth Strategy
How can IGG accelerate economic growth and poverty reduction simultaneously?
Policy on Feed-in Tariffs by the Government of Kenya
Mobilisation of private resources for financing inclusive green growth
Mobilizing Private Resources for Financing Inclusive Green Growth
Mobilizing private resources and financing inclusive green growth in the Republic of Moldova
A Dialogue Platform for Inclusive Green Growth Investment: Expanded Stocktaking for the G20 Development Working Group
A Dialogue Platform for Inclusive Green Growth Investment: Expanded Stocktaking for the G20 Development Working Group
Documents connexes


text:
Lululemon yanked its popular black yoga pants from store shelves and online after it found that the sheer material used was revealing too much of its loyal customers.
The see-through yoga garb is the latest in a series of quality glitches that threaten to alienate the retailer's hardcore fan base, which has so far been more than willing to shell out $100 for pants and other athletic garments. These legions of followers have helped Lululemon, founded in 1998, become a billion dollar business.
Lululemon Athletica Inc. said on its website that it first began to understand the extent of the problem on March 11 as part of its weekly call with store managers, who voiced worries about sheerness. Lululemon declined to respond to Associated Press queries about whether the problem was discovered when customers started to return the Luon pants, the latest batch of which went on sale at the beginning of the month.
Lululemon insists that it hadn't changed the specifications for the clothing or switched suppliers but is warning that the recall could lead to short supplies and will hurt its first-quarter revenue. The Luon pants, made from a combination of nylon and Lycra fibers, are one of the retailer's product staples and account for about 17 percent of all women's pants in its stores. The company is offering customers' full refunds or exchanges.
The debacle marks the fourth quality problem in the last year for Lululemon, according to Credit Suisse analyst Christian Buss -- and not the first see-through issue.
First, the Vancouver-based company had sheerness problems with certain swimsuits for spring 2012. And some light-colored pants currently on sale carry this disclaimer: "You may experience sheerness with some of our bright coloured bottoms because of the lightweight nature of the fabric. We recommend you do a couple of Down Dogs in your brightly coloured bottoms to ensure you're happy with the fit and coverage." "Down Dogs" refers to a yoga position. The company also has had problems with bright dyes bleeding.
Investors usually like transparency, but in this case they're the exception. Lululemon's stock price dropped nearly 3 percent in trading Tuesday to $64.08. The stock is down 16 percent in the year to date while the broader markets have been hitting multiyear highs.
Until now, Lululemon has been as much a star for investors as it has for yoga devotees. Its shares rocketed from less than $3 in 2009, to around $65 this year. Analysts expect to get more details when Lululemon posts earnings for the final quarter and full fiscal year on Thursday. But already some Wall Street analysts have downgraded the stock.
"We see some potential that (Lululemon) risks alienating its core customer bases should quality control issues persist," Buss wrote in her note. Based on her own research, Buss said the Luon fabric is sourced from a Taiwanese manufacturer.
Lululemon confirmed through an outside publicist that its sourcing manager for raw materials is at the facilities of the supplier, Taiwan-based Eclat Textile Co.
Still, some marketing experts dismissed the debacle as a temporary glitch and said Lululemon's loyal customers won't switch to rivals like Nike Inc. or Champion anytime soon.
"It's a late-night TV joke, and it's going to pass," said Robert Passikoff, president of Brand Keys Inc., a New York customer research firm. "The issue is closure, contrition and care. Clearly, they're doing everything they need to do."
Lululemon cut its first-quarter revenue forecast as a result of its decision to withdraw the pants. The company now anticipates first-quarter revenue between $333 million and $343 million, down from an earlier estimate of $350 million to $355 million. Analysts polled by FactSet had previously forecast revenue of $352.1 million.
The company also slashed its outlook for first-quarter revenue growth at stores open at least a year to between 5 percent and 8 percent, from 11 percent previously.


text:
STONY BROOK, N.Y. – UMBC women's lacrosse tallied four America East postseason awards, including a pair of honors for junior midfielder Alyssa Semones (Westminster, Md./Westminster/Penn State), as announced by the league office at the conference's annual awards banquet on the campus of Stony Brook University.
Semones earned a spot on the America East All-Conference Second Team for the second straight season, as well as receiving her first America East All-Academic Team recognition. The junior was joined on the second team by senior Kristen Bilney (Ellicott City, Md./Mt. Hebron), who earned her third league honor, while senior Devan Hibbs (Downingtown, Pa./Downingtown West) rounded out the honors by being named to the All-Academic Team.
Semones piloted the Retrievers' offense with a team-best 27 goals and 32 points. She picked up a career-best 37 ground balls, ranking third in the conference (2.31 ground balls per game). The Westminster, Md., native led the team in draw controls for the second straight season (31), in addition to causing a team-best 14 turnovers.
Semones was named to the America East Honor Roll during her first season at UMBC and currently has a 3.58 GPA in media and communication studies. She has posted above a 3.00 GPA in every semester of college and earned President's list honors for a 4.0 GPA one semester.
Bilney posted her third straight 20-goal season and eclipsed the 100-point plateau during her senior campaign. The two-time team captain registered a team-best six hat tricks on the year and finished second on the squad in goals (25) and draw controls (30). She chipped in 19 ground balls and 11 caused turnovers.
Hibbs was recognized on the America East Commissioner's Honor Roll three straight years, will graduate in May out of the pre-nursing program with a degree in psychology and plans to attend Villanova for nursing school. She was selected for the Omicron Delta Kappa which is a "Premier Leadership Honor Society" for those who has achieved exemplary academic and leadership achievement with a cumulative GPA of over a 3.27 and within the top 30 percent of their graduating class. She has posted a 3.33 GPA during her time at UMBC.


text:
Because the PS3 will most likely never see the first Mass Effect, when Mass Effect 2 hit Sony's console developers BioWare had to include an interactive comic to help players make the choices that defined their character's actions.
Xbox 360 and PC players made those choices while actually playing the first Mass Effect, but since that wasn't an option on the PS3, well, the comic had to do. Now that comic is available on the Xbox 360 (for 320 MSP), in case you feel like playing Mass Effect 2 without having to play Mass Effect 1.
Though, really, you should. Answering a glorified Q&A isn't the same as actually making those tough decisions as the game unfolds, and while the first Mass Effect is a little rusty in some places in light of the sequel, it's still an awesome game. And don't worry, you've got plenty of time between now and 2012 to finish both the first and second game. Maybe more than once.
Mass Effect 2: Genesis [Xbox]


text:
Story highlights
- Women in Mosul, northern Iraq, must practice sports behind closed, locked doors
- Many men and women disapprove of women in sport and are against mixed gender training
- Situation is different outside of Mosul where there is a more positive view of women in sport
- Some use wearing of hijab as excuse to say women cannot compete effectively in sports
Filing nervously into a sports hall in Mosul, northern Iraq, around 20 girls prepared to practice gymnastics. Compared to their male counterparts at Mosul University's Faculty of Sport, their number is small. Another difference is that the gates to the sports hall were locked behind them and an announcement made that the hall was exclusively allocated for women.
Liqaa Abdul Muttalib, a rhythmic gymnastics trainer says the facilities are not ideal: "There are pillars in the hall which limit free movement and rotational flips. This hall was initially designed for physical fitness."
Behind another locked gate Ammar Shihab was coaching the university's recently formed five-a-side female football team.
"Women's participation has shrunk following the 2003 events," said Shihab. "However, this did not prevent women from exercising and participating in sports tournaments. Our women's football team took part in the tournament that took place in Syria in 2010."
On the separation between the two genders in sports Shihab thinks "it is a right step for both of them at the present time."
It seems that the way society views women in Mosul and much of the surrounding Nineveh province is reflected in the attitude towards women's participation in sports.
Some believe that it's inappropriate, like Nihad Mohamed Qais, is a 22-year-old student.
"I don't like women's participation in sports. It is not a civilized phenomenon. Therefore, I will not allow my sister or a female relative to participate in sports or to join an athletic club or faculty," he said.
"What makes me reject the idea is what I heard about the presence of boys and girls together, in addition to the presence of male coaches. I also do not like the idea of women wearing sports uniforms."
While the majority of men in Mosul do not agree with women's participation in sports, some women support it. One of them is 20 year old Dhikra.
"I do encourage women's engagement in sports, provided that they do their exercises in the absence of men so that they will feel at ease, at least with regard to wearing the sports uniform," she said.
"I believe that religious considerations are the main reason behind the families' objections to their daughters joining faculties of sport."
Khalid Abdul Majeed is Deputy Representative of the Olympic Committee in Nineveh. He also believes that family disapproval and social conditions prevent more women participating in sport, as well as more of them wearing hijab (head scarves)
"We have a female volleyball team which ranks second in Iraq," said Majeed. "However, all the teams are found in Nineveh Plain because of the better security situation in the area as well as the positive social views about female athletes, which is almost free of perceptions of inferiority."
Duaa Sabhan, 22, a talented and enthusiastic athlete, said that wearing the hijab did not prevent her from taking part in sports.
"I do not support the present separation between us and our male colleagues," she said. "There is nothing that prevents me from exercising with them. I don't pay attention to society's views because my sole wish is to learn and improve my athletic skills. My father often encourages me to get rid of the state of social shyness."
When society constitutes a barrier, parents may support their daughters and lead them towards success and allow them to travel and participate in athletic contests. But the case of Sabhan is quite different from that of Riyam Ali who plays on the five-a-side football team.
"My family did not allow me to join the Faculty of Physical Education," she said. "Therefore, at the end of the day, when my lectures finish, I join the team to attend training drills and exercises. Of course my male and female colleagues do not know about my coming here because they do not welcome the idea."
In Iraq religion has its say concerning women's involvement in sport and taking part in contests.
"Women's sport nowadays is a cause for molestation of women, particularly the sports that are covered by media and broadcast to the public," said Skeikh Ahmed Ghanim, imam and preacher at the Islamic Awakening Mosque and a member of Iraq's Scholars Association in Nineveh.
"The aim of this is merely to export women to the West. However, women may exercise and do their drills inside confined halls, separately from men, while wearing their legal dresses."
"The limited role of women in the athletic field in terms of winning medals, good results, flags and participation does not constitute any risk to the country, and female athletes winning medals and cups is not an achievement for the country and does not contribute to its development," Sheikh Ghanim added.
Religious and social views are almost the same and seem to have contributed to the difficulties many women find in joining in sports in Iraq.


text:
Our Benefactors
The Samuel W. and Marilyn C. Seidel Endowment
In 1997, Salisbury business man and civic leader Samuel Seidel and his wife, Marilyn Seidel, a retired nurse, gave $1 million to endow the Seidel School of Education at Salisbury University (then known as the Seidel School of Education and Professional Studies).
In 1984, Mr. Seidel joined the SU Foundation Board, serving on several significant committees and eventually serving as president. During his time on the Board, the Foundation grew from $200,000 to $17 million, making Salisbury University the largest endowed comprehensive university in the University System of Maryland.
Mrs. Seidel, who retired as an operating room nurse, maintained high interest in nursing education and endowed a nursing scholarship at the University.
Before his death in 2001, the visionary Mr. Seidel said, "The real goal of the endowment is to get good people into education."


text:
General E46 Forum
This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW!
|Thread Tools
|Search this Thread
|Display Modes
OEM ///Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Fairfax, VA USA
Posts: 28,904
My Ride: 330CiC, M5, X5, E93
Cold weather misfires and CEL, common issues $50 fix!
So tis the season for the usual car runs rough on start up, misfires, CEL/MIL, stalling. Before you get too deep into this thread, I believe most of the data is relevant to the 325/330 models, or typical the 2.5L M52tu and 3.0L M54 engines also used in the E39 5 series and E85??Z4 series (however, it may be relevant to the 323/328 models as well, but part numbers will probably vary?), please check part number and application carefully before placing parts orders.
First suggestion to help you move in the proper direction is get your CEL/MIL codes read. Log and note the date, mileage and each trouble code. If there is Freeze Frame data, note this as well. Then clear codes, NOTE YOU WILL NEED AN ODBII SCAN TOOL TO CLEAR YOUR CODES, also NOTE IF YOU ARE NOT USING A BMW SPECIFIC SCAN TOOL (PEAKE, GT1, PA SOFT, CARSOFT, ETC.) YOU MAY ONLY GET A PARTIAL PICTURE OF WHAT CODES YOUR CAR MAY HAVE. The idea here is each time your CEL/MIL lights up, try to read, Log and and clear your codes ASAP. This will help you identify what code(s) show up first and will help you narrow your problem before other codes show up and may mislead you.
If you do not have a code reader or scan tool, many auto parts stores (Auto Zone, Advance, Pep Boys, O'Rielly, Fisher, etc.) will allow you to borrow one and usually use it in their parking lot.
As of Jan 2019 we have found OBDFusion and the VeePeak interface combination for either Android or iProducts tends to be rock solid and is one of the most cost effective and powerful OBDII Apps that also allows for Logging data.
If you have a smart phone or tablet, get an OBDII App and interface so you can read the codes along with Live/Realtime or Freeze Frame data then you will know exactly what is going on with the engine fuel management system.
The OBDFusion App and proper VeePeak interface from Amazon are less than $40 for both for iProducts, less than $20 for both for Android.
OBDFusion for Android is $4.99 from the Google Play Store.
For Android this lower cost standard Bluetooth interface in the link below works well, but DO NOT try to use this with iProducts.
OBDFusion, for the iProducts it is $9.99 from the Apple App Store.
For iProducts you NEED a LE Bluetooth adapter which are more expensive. VeePeak now offers a LE Bluetooth interface that is compatible with OBDFusion in the link below. While people have used the Wifi adapter, I would HIGHLY recommend NOT using Wifi with iProducts, brings a lot of baggage and stability issues.
Buy the interface you need NOW!
Please note that the bulk of this thread has to do with problems on cold start up and during idle situations. There have been a number of cases lately where codes P0171/P0174 are not triggered at idle, but at highway cruise speeds. I suggest you cover the bases with the very common solutions listed below, but if once you have cleared the obvious problems and if you are getting P0171/P0174 at highway cruise speeds only, then you are most likely not dealing with a standard intake or crankcase vacuum/air leak. I will be adding information to this thread in the near future for lean codes at highway cruise speeds[/COLOR]
As mentioned above, the bulk of this thread has to do with idle based problems, usually caused by vacuum/air leaks, but we have started to see a few cars that owners have addressed all the obvious vacuum/air leaks and they are still getting mostly Lean codes, many times without DME misfire codes. In a number of these instances the problems only show up during highway cruising situations, the CEL will not trigger during start up or any in town sub 45 MPH driving. But once the car is brought up to highway cruise type speeds, a few cars are still triggering the CEL along with P0171 & P0174. In many of these cases the problem has been with soft failed MAF's that are under reporting the amount of intake air, therefore causing the mixtures to be adjusted lean, then triggering Lean P0171 & P0174. So in some cases you may have a soft failure on a MAF where the engine is misfiring and running poorly and/or in a limp mode without any specific CEL or DME trouble codes.
Some cases we have seen soft failures on fuel pumps and/or fuel filters that either the pressure regulators are not working correctly, even restricted fuel filters with 80-120k miles of fuel passing through them. A few major telltale results of a soft failing fuel pump is running out of fuel while the fuel gauge indicates 1/4 tank and a moaning sound under the drivers floor board or along the driver side rocker panel, this is usually caused by the fuel pressure regulator vibrating due to low fuel volume and inconsistent fuel delivery from the fuel pump. The moaning can often be VERY loud and sounds like a wounded elephant. Some of the soft fail fuel pump failures are causing P0171/P0174 without misfire and may only happen off idle when cruising. Sometimes even causing idle surge and instability without triggering the CEL or codes. Please cover the basics and take care of simple things like spark plugs, fuel filter and engine vacuum caps and hoses before spending a lot of money on other parts. If you do not know the history on your spark plugs, air filter and fuel filter, it is probably time to change them!
This is not really part of the simple vacuum leak/hose problems that were originally outlined, but BEWARE there are soft failures on fuel pumps that can lead to intermittent hesitation, rough idle, misfires and stalling.
Suggest you check this link here for more info on fuel pump failures - https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showth...501&highlight=
A PM replacement of the pump, fuel filter and fuel pump relay may be a good idea. Parts cost if you do your homework should be under $200 and take about 1 hour. The best pump prices are from www.bmaparts.com from what we have seen lately. Fuel filter pricing on Amazon is pretty good as well.
Other items to possibly consider, but may not have been identified as actual causes of lean codes are as follows: camshaft timing may be out of spec possibly due to prior cylinder head removal and/or timing chain work, VANOS seals possibly casing camshaft timing to be off, throttle body/TPS issues. These are things to consider and to look into, many of these issues have not been proven to be a cause of the lean codes, however, just additional items to think about. Also keep in mind that pre Cat O2 sensor health is also important for proper reporting of fuel mixtures. And the last thing to think about is engine to body grounding. If for some reason the ground path between the engine and body/DME is questionable, you again may have incorrect reporting of sensor date, therefore possibly causing problems with CEL and DME trouble codes. So look at the charging Voltages and check the engine to body grounds while under the hood. Camshaft position sensors are also known weak points in these cars and they can also soft fail causing incorrect camshaft position feedback, thereby causing the VANOS to not work properly and possibly impact performance enough to cause Lean codes to be triggered.
But in any event, I would start with reading the DME trouble codes and uses these as clues, check all the obvious source so vacuum leaks, replace known problem hoses, gaskets and intake boots, then see where this all leads you. Additionally many maintenance related items should also be addressed before jumping into more costly and difficult sensor replacement.
Most of the problems I mention in this thread trigger one or more of the follow codes, but not limited just to these codes:
P0171 = Fuel Trim, Bank1 System Too Lean
P0174 = Fuel Trim, Bank2 System Too Lean
P1083 = Fuel Control Limit Mixture Too Lean (Bank 1, Sensor 1)
P1085 = Fuel Control Limit Mixture Too Lean (Bank 2, Sensor 1)
P1090 = Pre Catalyst Fuel Trim Too Lean Bank #1
P1091 = Pre Catalyst Fuel Trim Too Lean Bank #2
P0300 = Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0313 = Misfire Detected Low Fuel Level
P1342 = Misfire During Start Cylinder 1
P1343 = Misfire Cylinder #1 with Fuel Cut-Off
P1344 = Misfire During Start Cylinder 2
P1345 = Misfire Cylinder #2 with Fuel Cut-Off
P1346 = Misfire During Start Cylinder 3
P1347 = Misfire Cylinder #3 with Fuel Cut-Off
P1348 = Misfire During Start Cylinder 4
P1349 = Misfire Cylinder #4 with Fuel Cut-Off
P1350 = Misfire During Start Cylinder 5
P1351 = Misfire Cylinder #5 with Fuel Cut-Off
P1352 = Misfire During Start Cylinder 6
P1353 = Misfire Cylinder #6 with Fuel Cut-Off
P0301 = Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected
P0302 = Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
P0303 = Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected
P0304 = Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected
P0305 = Cylinder 5 Misfire Detected
P0306 = Cylinder 6 Misfire Detected
P0491 = Secondary Air Injection System Insufficient Flow (Bank 1)
P0492 = Secondary Air Injection System Insufficient Flow (Bank 2)
P0441 = Evaporative Emissions System Incorrect Purge Flow
P0455 = Evaporative Emissions System Leak Detected (Large Leak)
P0456 = Evaporative Emissions System Leak Detected (Very Small Leak)
Below are some of the MOST common problems/solutions. There may be other things that cause similar problems, but these are fairly easy to check visually, cheap and easy repairs. Many owners tend to just want to have a high priced single solutions like MAF, O2 sensors, ICV, Coils, Fuel Pumps, keep in mind that some of these items may be a contributing factor, however, it does not matter how many $100-$200 parts you throw on the car, if you have rubber hoses and gaskets leaking air, all the hard parts in the world will not solve your problems, they may help, but why not check the simple and cheaper things first, then check them off your list before you move forward. Except for the DISA O-ring, most of the other things can be visually inspected and tested very simply without a lot of dis-assembly. You can then rule these items in or out as potential problems within a few minutes if you know exactly what to look for.
Many of these problems are due to intake air leaks and/or crankcase air leaks of some sort, usually due to loose, damaged, broken or deteriorated parts, most likely rubber or plastic. Do not rule out crankcase leaks as the design of the engine keeps the crankcase under a small vacuum most of the time. A crankcase air leak is basically an intake air leak in these cars. The problem could be as simple as a dipstick not fully seated, a bad or loose oil fill car or a bad valve cover gasket or cracked valve cover that does not leak oil but can leak air/vacuum. Also in more extreme cases you can have vacuum leaks at the intake manifold to cylinder head connection. These gaskets have silicon rubber seals that can get heat set in the compressed state and leak only on cold start up situations.
A few ways to find and locate vacuum/air leaks is with a smoke tester (Internet search for more on smoke testers), using additional vacuum hose and using smoke inhaled from a cigarette or cigar, then blowing it into the vacuum hose to fill the intake or other vacuum lines, using a mechanics stethoscope with the transducer removed so you have open hose to you ears to attempt to locate a vacuum leak source while the engine is running, a 4 foot piece of hose to hold up to your ear to listen for vacuum leaks when the engine is running, and last but not least is a can of spray brake cleaner to spray and pinpoint vacuum leaks while the the engine is running. The spray brake cleaner will cause the engine RPM to increase slightly and smooth out when a leak is pinpointed. I have found via experience that very small and hard to find vacuum leaks, like where an intake manifold meets the cylinder head can be found much easily with spray brake cleaner than smoke testing or other methods. Also a note on smoke testing, many people swear by these, however, in practical terms, the smoke tester usually operate on very low pressure, usually 2-5 psi, they are usually only good for locating very obvious leaks that you should be able to find with visual inspection if you know where to look. I find that smoke testing may not show very difficult leaks like silicon gasketed surfaces such as the DISA or intake to cylinder head mating surfaces, this is where sometimes spray brake cleaner works much better. Be careful with spray brake cleaner on painted surfaces, breathing the fumes too much or getting it in your eyes due to splash back or air flow off the engine cooling fan. Use your head and be safe while working under the hood with the engine running, watch out for moving and hot parts, be aware of high Voltage ignition components and spraying flammable chemicals around!
Not in any specific order, but if you own an E46 (Actually almost any 6 cylinder BMW prior to the cut over to the e9x series models in 2005/2006), they are old enough now that these items should be replaced soon anyway. Please verify correct part numbers @ www.realoem.com to make sure you purchase and have the correct part numbers for your vehicle repair.
Here is a good link that has a complete DIY with pictures for most of the items listed below - https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showth...&highlight=ccv
1. DISA Valve (sometimes referred to as an Adjuster Unit) #7 in this link - http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...79&hg=11&fg=40. The DISA has a number of different failure modes, the DISA can have problems anywhere from vacuum leaks to catastrophic failure that may leave butterfly floating loose in the intake plenum and possibly the rear metal pivot pin could fall out and be sucked into once of the cylinders causing pretty severe engine damage.
SPECIAL NOTE ON THE REAR DISA PIN - The rear DISA pin can and will fall out depending on how badly the DISA butterfly plate is worn on the actuator shaft. This metal pin appears to be pressed into the rear of the butterfly and rotates with the butterfly plate. If the butterfly has become cracked or is overly loose on the actuator shaft, this metal pin (about 1/4" in diameter and about 13/16" long) could possibly become loose, fall out of the DISA assembly and work its way into a cylinder and may possibly cause severe engine damage. If you remove the DISA, immediately look for the rear metal butterfly pin and make sure it is still firmly pressed in. If you do not find the pin, check the intake VERY carefully for the pin and remove it if you find it. If you find the pin and it is loose in anyway, please remove the DISA flap and rear metal pin if you need to reinstall the existing, worn out DISA until you can purchase and install a new DISA
The first thing you want do is remove the DISA valve, pretty easy overall, remove the intake air filter box, upper intake boot and a few wire connectors and you are ready to access the DISA, you will need the Torx bit to actually remove the 2 DISA mounting screws. Once the DISA screws are removed, ease the DISA out of the intake, do not force it, there is only 1 angle that the DISA will likely come out and go back into the intake, it is not hard once you find the proper angle.
If the DISA valve slides out of the intake the first 1/4" easy, without much effort, or almost falls out, you will need a new O-ring!
Now that you have the DISA out of the intake, you need to check other functions to make sure you even want to re-use the DISA long term.
Special note for inspecting DISA valve, while you have the DISA out, inspect the DISA for proper operation. The DISA butterfly should be spring loaded in the open position and the butteryfly should not be overly loose or sloppy in the DISA shaft. You can also shake the DISA and it should not be noisy (new DISA will make absolutely no noise or rattle if shaken VERY hard). If you have any noise when shaking the DISA, something is most like worn and/or broken and you should consider a replacement DISA. Also the DISA rear pin can fall out into the engine and the DISA butterfly valve can fall off and get stuck in the intake possibly blocking the airflow to 1 or more cylinders, so it you remove the DISA and see no butterfly flap or rear metal pin, get worried and start looking for spare parts in the intake. If you are lucky the rear metal pin will be in the DISA groove in the intake.
Keep this in mind in case you suspect your car may have already had a replacement DISA, and if you have some strange performance issues, maybe someone left the old butterfly in the intake manifold if it fell off the original DISA??
The DISA is vacuum controlled and the small vacuum actuator on the end of the DISA is what actually moves the butterfly valve along with a control solenoid. Overall the DISA is a very ingenious device. The large body is actually vacuum reservoir. If look closely there is a very small hole near the butterfly valve this is the actual vacuum source. To verify if the vacuum actuator is still working and not leaking, close the DISA butterfly with your hand and then put your thumb over the opening that is opposite side of the electric connector on the solenoid. What should happen is the DISA butterfly will spring back open about 1/4" beyond the DISA frame. If the butterfly pops all the way back to the open position or slowly moves back to the default open position, then the vacuum actuator diaphragm is leaking and the DISA will not function correctly.
While there may be some sources that offer DISA "rebuild" kits, I would stay away from them personally. The butterfly valve and shaft are only part of the DISA, there is also an electrically controlled solenoid, actuator shaft seal and a vacuum diaphragm that actually moves the DISA valve and these parts can and will fail. The shaft/butterfly failure usually happens sometimes after the 100k mile mark, so if you car has the original DISA still, it is most likely ready for a replacement by now anyway. The vacuum diaphragm is more likely to fail than the solenoid and if the vacuum diaphragm fails you will end up with ANOTHER hard to find vacuum leak. There have also been a few reports of DISA vacuum actuators that test fine before the DISA repair kit was installed, but after removing the shaft and butterfly valve, after the vacuum actuator link was tweaked and twisted, the vacuum diaphragm was then cracked and no longer properly held vacuum. This is kind of expected from a decade old flexible rubber diaphragm, so just beware and be forewarned. If you are reading this thread, your car is clearly old enough now that if the butterfly is loose on the shaft or the DISA rattles when you shake it, just do yourself a favor and buy a new DISA and be done with your problem DISA for the next 7-10 years.
If you feel the DISA is physically in good shape and the vacuum diaphragm for the actuator is still in good shape and holds vacuum, then you may just need to replace the primary O-ring, which is not typically serviceable, however, you can get a red silicon replacement on for under $12 online or someone mentioned you might be able to match up something at your local parts store. Recommend a silicon O-ring as it is a bit softer than some of the harder rubber compounds and will tend to seal better with the plastic expansion and contraction over wide temperatures. I would be so inclined to put this replacement on a new DISA anyway as the DISA seal is only good for about 5 years/50k miles, after than you are on borrowed time. If for some reason you remove the DISA to replace the lower intake boot or do other work on the car, REPLACE the O-ring or you will be sorry once it gets below 40F. Trust me.
If you think your DISA should be replaced, following are some of the most common part number, but please check the part number before ordering a replacement for your vehicle. DISA prices online are between $175-$225 depending on the part number and the supplier. Prices change, however, check www.bmwmercedesparts.com for pricing as if this entry they have the 3.0 L DISA for $176.
DISA BMW part number - Please verify these via www.realoem.com to confirm proper application.
325/2.5L engines appear to use BMW Part #11617544806, this appears to have superseded an earlier BMW Part #11617502269
330/3.0L engines appear to use BMW Part #11617544805, this appears to have superseded an earlier BMW Part #11617502275
Both of the 325/330 DISA's have the injected or mold orange silicon main seal. SPECIAL NOTE - The 325 and 330 DISA appear to be very close in size, the main intake hole opening is the same size, however, the 325 DISA will fit into a 330 intake opening, but not the other way around. The 330 DISA is about 1/2" longer overall. Make sure you did not or do not end up with the 325 DISA in a 330 intake. I believe the 330 DISA will bottom out in the 325 intake before the flange meets the intake surface. As a point of reference, the last 7 digits of the DISA part number will be cast into the side of the DISA next to a BMW logo. So a 325 DISA should have either 7502269 for the original part up through 4/04 or 7544806 for the newer version used after 4/04. The 330/3.0L DISA should have either 7502275 for the original part up through 4/04 or 7544805 for the newer version used after 4/04.
Taller (left side) DISA is for 3.0L engines, Shorter (right side) DISA is for 2.5L engines.
323/328 2.3L & 2.8L engines use DISA BMW part number - 11611440049, with the green removable O-ring. I have not confirmed for sure that the 2.3L/2.8L DISA has the part number cast into the side, but if it did, I assume it would have 1440049 after the BMW logo on the side of the DISA? Please verify part number and application.
Please verify part numbers @ www.realoem.com to verify proper part application for your vehicle!
If you feel your DISA is still serviceable, then I definitely suggest replacing the primary O-ring. Again, please measure your DISA and/or make sure when you order a replacement O-ring to specify your engine model as there are differences between the 323/328 & 325/330 series engines.
Note about the O-ring replacement, the 325/330 DISA has an orange molded/injected silicon seal in the groove, the 323/328 engines have a standard replaceable green O-ring. On the 325/330 you need to take a small screw driver and maybe a brass wire brush to scrape the groove clear of the original silicon before installing the new replacement O-ring. Then lube the O-ring with some silicon spray or clean light oil before reinstalling the DISA. The DISA will take some effort to seat it the last 1/4".
I do not suggest using any sort of sealer on the DISA O-ring area. There is an issue where the material needs to expand and contract to seal over temperature and any sort of sealer will not really work for the type of interface where this needs to seal in the inside of the hole in the intake manifold. What will happen is any sort of sealer will likely just make a mess that will need to be cleaned up once a proper O-ring has been installed.
Sources for DISA O-ring
323/328 M52 Engines - Green removable O-ring
BMW Part #11617504543, this is a serviceable part for these engines.
http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-328.../Disa/ES25713/ - [B]
Your local auto parts suppliers may have something that fits?? Examples - Auto Zone, Advance, Pep Boys, O'Rielly, Fisher, but this may be a wild goose chase and it would probably be better to order the O-ring online so you will get something a bit closer in fit.
For the 325/330 M54 engines, the DISA O-ring is not a serviceable part, you have to remove the orange injected/molded silicon sealer and clean the groove out and install a replacement O-ring.
DISA O-rings for 325/330 engines have the following dimensions.
Some manufactures have an O-ring sizing chart. O-rings referenced as -136, -137, -138, -139 should all work. These sizes are 3/32" thick and range from 2" to 2 3/16" I.D.
Thickness - 3/32" (do not suggest anything thicker)
Preferred material - silicon, however, rubber may substitute
Thickness - 2.5 mm (do not suggest anything thicker)
I.D. - 51mm - 55 mm
O.D. - 55mm - 60 mm
Preferred material - silicon, however, rubber may substitute
DISA O-rings for the 323/328 engines have the following dimensions.This is for DISA's with the green, removable O-ring, not the orange molded seal. I also believe that the green O-ring DISA's are less problematic than the DISA's with the orange molded seal?
Again this is a BMW serviceable part, part number 11617504543.
Thickness - 1/8"
Preferred material - silicon, however, rubber may substitute
Thickness - 5.5 mm
I.D. - 51 mm
O.D. - 62 mm
Preferred material - silicon, however, rubber may substitute
Simple way to verify the proper O-ring thickness without having super expensive measuring systems is the following:
VERY, VERY simple way to measure the O-ring, it will cost you less than $0.10 to measure the O-ring accurately and you will not need to actually "spend" the $0.10.
If you buy an O-ring you want one that is 3/32" thick for the 325/330 applications, NOT 1/8" thick which many ebay sellers are shipping.
You will need 2 dimes to measure the O-ring thickness.
Toss the O-ring on a flat surface like a table, stack 2 dimes in the middle of the O-ring then use something flat like a card or ruler to lay across the O-ring, it should be almost exactly the thickness of the 2 dimes.
The thicker 1/8" O-ring which is the wrong one to use is the thickness of 2 quarters stacked.
Hope this helps people quickly determine if the have the proper thickness O-ring.
YouTube DISA Removal Video - contributed by SolidJake from the forum here.
2. Lower Intake Boot, #6 in the this link - http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...05&hg=13&fg=15, cracked or torn, usually at the small elbow connection point due to stress on the boot and the high under hood temperatures. About $20 depending on where you purchase it. Note that to really get at this, it is easier to take the DISA valve out to give you better access. Look very closely at the small flexible tube on the lower elbow as this is usually where the cracks occur. Its almost like you should just replace it anyway if it appears original as the rubber gets hard and cracks. A few notes, the hose clamps on the lower boot are very hard to reach. Many people cut the old boot to gain better access to the hose clamps. A 1/4" drive socket set with flex ratchet and a very long flat blade screw driver (12+") help here. Once hose clamp is loose, rotate then try to use the long screw driver to finish loosening the clamps. Also if you plan on replacing the upper intake boot, cut a slit along the plastic F connector so you do not break the connector trying to remove it from the original upper boot. Use silicon spray when installing the F fitting into the new upper boot.
Tools I use for the lower intake boot hose clamps - https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showpo...&postcount=147 and I do all the work from under the hood, not under the car!
The parts numbers below are known to be for 325/330 engines, but again before you order parts for your car, please visit www.realoem.com and verify the proper part numbers for your application.
Lower boot, BMW part number - 13541435627 , this is the most common failed boot
Upper boot, BMW part number - 13541705209
F vacuum fitting, BMW part number - 13327503677
3. CCV (Crank Case Vent) lower oil drain hose, #4 in this link - http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...94&hg=11&fg=15, BMW Part #11157532649 or for cold climate BMW Part #11157532629 which is probably the best option for all cars, it just has more insulation to keep it from freezing as easily if there is a lot of condensation in the oil. Also on Amazon - http://www.amazon.com/11157532649-98...7346039&sr=1-2
Connects between the dipstick tube and the bottom of the CCV. The connection to the bottom of the CCV is a bit tricky to unlatch blind, but it can be performed without taking anything but the air filter box out. I find if you get the end of the hose off the dipstick it makes it easier to rotate the snap fitting on the bottom of the CCV. I use a long (14-16") flat blade screw driver to help push off the CCV oil drain hose from the bottom of the CCV while I squeeze the release bail as it is VERY hard to squeeze the release bail and pull down at the same time from under the hood. It is not easy to get your hand down there, but it is possible. Make sure you hear a sharp click when you reinstall the oil drain hose, otherwise your bail connection is not secure.
There are other hoses connecting the CCV and they may also go bad over time, however, the lower oil drain hose seems to be the most common failure point. Additionally the CCV valve itself and the dipstick tube can also cause problems, however, these may be more to do with oil plugging the drain passages and cause oil leak and even possibly hydro lock the engine if things go really bad. More often in the much colder climates, however, the CCV is an issue all to itself and a search on the board here will offer many stories and solutions. One very good overall CCV thread is this one - https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=870406
Pictures of a failed lower CCV oil drain/return hose are below. Note the thicker hose is the cold weather part number, this is what I would suggest installing. If you are in a bind, you can use 3/8" fuel line 10 3/8" in length but you may need to use spray silicon or heat the end of the hose to get it onto the CCV drain connector. It is a bit difficult to release the CCV hose connector in the blind, but if you notice it had an oval shape release collar, you pinch the wider part of the collar to make is circular and then it should release straight downward.
The parts numbers below are known to be for 325/330 engines, but again before you order parts for your car, please visit www.realoem.com and verify the proper part numbers for your application.
Lower CCV Cold Weather Oil Drain Hose, BMW Part Number - 11157532629
Complete ECS Tuning Cold Weather CCV kit (not you may want to also get the updated single wall dipstick and the larger, plastic air distribution manifold and 6 O-rings in addition to this kit?) - http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-325...ator/ES260026/
BMW M54 Engine Cold Weather CCV update part numbers
E46 (3 Series) rear-wheel drive only
Part Number Description Quantity
11 61 7 534 237 Oil Separator Repair kit 1
11 43 7 565 437 Dip Stick Guide Tube 1
11 15 7 532 629 Hose 1
E46 (3 Series) all-wheel drive only
Part Number Description Quantity
11 61 7 534 237 Oil Separator Repair kit 1
11 43 7 565 438 Dip Stick Guide Tube 1
11 15 7 532 629 Hose 1
4. SAP (Secondary Air Pump) issues - First you need to make sure the SAP air pump actually runs. There are electrical controls, fuses, connectors that can contribute to a non working SAP air pump. Additionally the actual pump can fail as well, there are bearings that can and will go bad, causing a very noise pump and the bearings could possibly seize as well. I expect theh pump could also fail electrically, but for the most part I have seen/heard pumps with bad bearings that get extremely noisy. Noisy to the point that the pump can be heard 3-4 houses away when the car is started in the morning! So if you have any SAP specific codes, please make sure your SAP pump motor is working before you focus too much on hoses, valves and other items.
Rubber hose between the air pump output and the SAP air control valve, item #2 the following link for earlier cars - http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...88&hg=11&fg=50. There appears to be AT LEAST 2 different part numbers depending on the model and year of car, BMW Part #11727555680 appears to use hose clamps on earlier cars, BMW Part # 11727555681 appears it may have quick connects used on later cars or 3.0L engines (330 cars)?? Check the part number of your application on www.realoem.com.
Might not cause stalling or a misfire, but can cause a CEL/MIL to light. These hoses start to break down due to the high heat from the exhaust transferring to the SAP air control value. They can cause problems with the SAP air control valve clogging or getting blocked.
SAP air control valve vacuum lines, items #3 & #4 in this link (Note - not all cars have a vacuum operated SAP air valve)- http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...03&hg=11&fg=45 (both hard and soft line along the valve cover where the O2 sensor wires are routed) can leak vacuum and cause rough engine during cold start and possibly CEL as well. The SAP vacuum hoses, mainly the hard plastic pipe, crack due to heat over time and usually cannot be seen. Also the vacuum hose to the SAP air control valve usually do not pull vacuum except for the first 90 seconds on cold start so they often get missed when inspecting for leaking vacuum hoses. Note that not all engines have this SAP check value vacuum hose. I believe?? 3.0L engines/330 cars may not have this vacuum operated check valve (still trying to verify this)??? I believe if your air pump main output hose has the quick connect ends and not standard hose clamps, the SAP check valve is not vacuum controlled??
Also keep in mind there are a few other parts associated with this vacuum control circuit. There is the electric control solenoid valve, a vacuum check valve and a few other short vacuum hoses under the rear of the intake manifold and they are VERY hard to see and access, again, not all engines have this configuration. The electric check valve has been known to get debris in it from deteriorating vacuum lines and hoses. This debris can either block/clog the electric control solenoid valve or it may cause the debris to keep the electric valve from completely closing. If this electric valve gets partially stuck open I am not sure what symptoms will show up. The small plastic check valve and the few associated short vacuum lines can also be a problem. The issue is they are very hard to inspect and access. See picture of the underside of the intake manifold below a better view of what these items look like.
Simple test for the SAP air valve vacuum hose is to disconnect the small vacuum hose at the SAP air valve and connected a vacuum gauge to this connection and make sure there is vacuum applied for approximately 30 seconds or more on cold start up. The vacuum gauge should read approximately 15+ inches of vacuum. If you do not have a vacuum gauge, you should be able to use your finger to block the end of the hose to see of the hose is pulling vacuum on cold start up. If you do not get vacuum, then it is likely there is a problem with the vacuum hoses between the SAP air control valve and the connection under the rear of the intake manifold. Most likely cause is the hose and hardline from the SAP vacuum control solenoid under the intake around the rear of the valve cover and along the side of the valve cover near the O2 sensor wires.
The SAP vacuum control solenoid and a few additional shorts vacuum lines and a small check valve are all buried way underneath the rear of the intake manifold and are very hard to see and access. You really need a good light and a mirror. These short sections of vacuum hose and the small check valve can also be problems and you cannot easily tell if they are a problem, but I would probably replace the vacuum hose between the SAP air control valve and the SAP vacuum control solenoid first before I fought with the parts under the intake.
Note the vacuum line from the SAP vacuum control solenoid to the SAP air control valve only has vacuum applied for the first 30-120 seconds (typically around 90 seconds) on cold start up. So if you car runs fine from 90-120 seconds and beyond, I would think this is a likely source of your problem.Also keep in mind the SAP vacuum control solenoid vents to atmosphere when de-energized (engine off or SAP not running) , so you blow backwards from the SAP air control valve or use a smoke tester you will have leakage on the SAP vacuum control solenoid at the air vent, this is normal.
A few good SAP links to check over -
Late model MAF based SAP system info - https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showth...ight=priceless
Page 6 of this BavAuto Fast Times Newsletter - https://www.bavauto.com/newsletter/2...newsletter.pdf
In the parts diagram below, item #3 which is the harder plastic vacuum line that runs along the valve cover gets extremely brittle and breaks easily, many times on the bottom where it is not visible. Many people just replace item #3 & both sort sections of item #4 with a single piece of vacuum hose from the SAP air valve to the extremely difficult connection to reach under the intake manifold. Also note there are a few additional short sections of rubber vacuum line that can also cause you problems under the intake, items #7 & #9.
from dslboomer
5. Basic vacuum hose leaks from caps, T's, fittings and hoses
Often overlooked at the 3 vacuum nipples located on the underside rear of the intake manifold. These 3 nipples can have a mix of vacuum hoses and/or vacuum caps plugging unused ports. The problem is the vacuum caps crack and can also fall off and cause misfiring and problems with cylinder #5 & #6. This area is hard to access and unless you know exactly what to look for with a mirror and strong flashlight, Smoke Testing may be the best way to verify leaks in this area of the engine.
Here are some useful links with pictures of what the underside of the intake manifold and some of the vacuum caps look like.
6. Check for coolant and oil ingress into the DME connectors. This is becoming a bit more common unfortunately.
7. Check the DME for coil driver chip damage. We are starting to see some of these show up as the cars age.
8. Power brake booster and booster hoses leaking. We are starting to see these problems show up now that every E46 is 10+ years old.
Sucking Jet Pump Links
9. Smoke Testing is the way to quickly and easily find intake and crankcase air leaks.
Cheap fluid transfer pump from your local auto parts store or Amazon.
A few rubber gloves, rubber bands and some cheap mini cigars from our local gas station or convenience store. You can also use a cheap E-cigarette and it may be safer than a lit cigar as well. Not sure if you can use mineral oil in the E-cigarette or if this would be to flammable.
Also get a good, bright LED flashlight to locate the escaping smoke. Look deep in the engine compartment and under the engine if needed. Do not forget the dipstick guide tube and the lower CCV oil return line. These areas may be hard to see from above in the engine compartment.
After looking for intake air leaks, remove the oil fill cap and allow the crankcase to fully fill up with smoke, then replace the oil fill cap. Check for cracks in the valve covers and leaks around the grommets, half moons and around the perimeter of the valve cover.
Common areas of leaks:
Upper and lower intake boots
Upper intake boot around F connector
DISA main O-ring and shaft area
Vacuum hoses under the rear of the intake
Fuel pressure vent hose that connects to the F connector on the upper intake boot and under the drivers floor board where it connects to the fuel pressure regulator
CCV and hoses, especially the lower oil return line
Dipstick and dipstick guide tube
Oil fill cap
Valve cover gaskets and cracked valve covers
SAP vacuum line to Kombi valve on front of engine, this will not leak smoke because of the control valve under the rear of the intake
Power brake booster sucking jet pump and hoses.
Note that the brake booster usually cannot be smoke tested because of the input vacuum check valve at the booster connection.
Other areas to look at include:
Intake manifold gasket, this can leak to single cylinder, cold start misfires that usually only happen after sitting overnight and at temps below 50F. These are almost impossible to test for with smoke and/or spraying with brake cleaner or carb cleaner.
CCV overall, but the oil drain back hose is the most common failure point.
Fuel Pressure Regulator vacuum hoses - https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showpo...1&postcount=30
Plastic check "T" fittings and associated rubber vacuum hoses and rubber caps - https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showth...500&highlight=
IAT (Intake Air Temperature) sensor O-ring leakage, O-ring is cheap and easy replace. BMW Part #13621743299 Note the IAT is located between intake runner #3 & #4 under the main engine cover.
ICV and its L shaped hose that connect near the throttle body.
Throttle body O-ring.
Upper intake flexible boot from MAF to coupler.
Power brake booster vacuum hose.
Air pump check valve vacuum hose.
Idle control valve and associated hoses.
Dip stick O-ring(s).
Fuel injector O-rings.
Oil fill cap.
Valve cover gaskets and small top seals.
Air distribution manifold and O-rings, over top of the intake manifold with a connection to each intake with an O-ring.
Fuel pressure regulator vacuum hoses.
EVAP hoses and valve.
VANOS seals, usually cause more MPG loss and upper RPM loss of performance, however, many have claimed that VANOS seals have help these issues.
Almost all of intake air leaks can cause misfire codes, O2 sensor codes, fuel trim codes, rough running and stalling. All these parts are basically rubber and after 7+ years and are starting to fail because they are subjected to high heat, gas and oil vapors, thermal cycling and vibration and it is time that they be replaced.
Lately there have been a lot of owners that have been dealing with what appears to be single cylinder, cold start misfires that cannot or do not appear to be corrected by eliminating vacuum leaks and they are being given advice to open the engine and replace lifters or take other drastic measures. There seems to be a lot of consensus that there is no way a vacuum leak can cause a single cylinder misfire. I say there clearly are certain vacuum leaks that will cause single cylinder misfires and it is my position that I would invest the time, money and effort to replacing hoses, seals and gaskets long before I would be taking the engine apart. You do have to use some logic on your approach and make decisions along the that that maybe you will pull injectors and have them professionally cleaned by someone like www.witchhunter.com before you possibly may pull your intake and/or tear into the motor. Also you may want to make sure you have performed a cylinder leakage and compression test long before removing the intake as well. Also do not forget to actually make sure the connector to the problem cylinder injector and ignition coil are tight, you may want to take a sharp pick and actually try to tighten the terminal inside the connectors for the injector and coil.
There has been some discussion that hydraulic lifter bleed down may be the cause of single cylinder, cold start misfires. This may be the case and a few owners have had lifters replaced, however, it is really hard to tell if the lifter was really the problem, or if when replacing the lifter a leaking valve cover gasket and/or other hose or gasket may have also been replaced during the repair that may have really been the source of the problem?? If it was my car, the LAST thing I would even consider would be to tear into the engine unless I had a really good idea that I had ruled out all the basic maintenance issues and common problems these car tend to have as they aged. Again, I would be focused on eliminating possible burnt valves early on in the process with cylinder leakage and compression testing, then methodically address the move obvious problems as I did things like professional injector cleaning and determining if intake manifold gaskets should be replaced.
10. Engine mechanical problems and restricted/clogged catalytic converters/exhaust
Something to also keep in mind, if you are totally unsuccessful in isolating a persistent misfire problem, please keep in mind you may in fact have an engine mechanical problem. Although rather rare, there have been a number of higher mileage cars that have been found to have a burnt exhaust valve in one cylinder. We have also been been seeing restricted and/or clogged catalytic converters also causing loss of engine power, performance and at times misfiring and even Lean codes. If this is the case the repair cost, required skill, time and effort is greatly increased. One problem is the sale of used catalytic converters tends to be against the law, so you will not likely be able to buy used exhaust manifolds with integrated catalytic converters from any junk yard/dismantlers. If you are lucky, you may be able to find a Forum member than has installed headers or has a parts car that may have a good used set of catalytic converters
When all else fails, do not forget to check the engine compression and perform a cylinder leakage test! I do not usually suggest these tests up front because the majority if these problems can be addressed with basic maintenance, however, as these engines get more and more miles added on to the odometer, we may need to change the philosophy about when to perform compression and cylinder leakage tests.
Following are some recently examples of burnt exhaust valve that caused persistent misfire problems both cold and hot along with some clogged catalytic converter threads:
I had a car the other day with over 12 CEL/MIL trouble codes that included misfires on individual cylinders, misfires on multiple cylinders, O2 sensor out of range, O2 sensor codes, fuel trim codes.
Turns out the primary problem was the $11 CCV oil return hose between the CCV and the dip stick tube, also the DISA O-ring was rather loose. $25 later no CEL/MIL, no trouble codes, no misfires or rough running.
Quick suggestion, if you car is running poorly now that the weather is cold, replace at least the lower intake elbow, the DISA O-ring and the CCV lower oil return hose, clear the DME codes, about $50. Then worry about other things if the car is still running poorly or has additional CEL/MIL codes.
Other items that can cause problems and need to be kept in mind are (in not specific order): VANOS seals, MAF, Fuel Pump & Pressure Regulator, Coils & Coil Boots, Spark Plugs, O2 Sensors, Cam and Crank Sensors.
NOTE: Many times the Mass Air Flow sensor will soft fail or degrade over time and cause an under reported airflow amount, which in turn may cause the long term fuel trims to increase above the 10% mark. An indicator of a degraded or soft failed MAF may be that the short term fuel trim is within +/- 3% or less at idle, but your long term fuel trims are much further off. Additionally a degraded or soft failed MAF may cause the CEL to come on only on the highway and not around town. Vacuum/air leaks are more likely to trigger a CEL during idle and round town, where a degraded or soft fail MAF is more likely to trigger while on the highway.
Before proceeding with parts purchases, I have made every attempt to present accurate information here, however, it is your responsibility to verify part numbers @ www.realoem.com or other BMW parts guide to verify proper part application for your vehicle!
You can them use the BMW Part Number Price Comparison tool to find the best pricing on replacement parts - www.bmwpnpc.com This is a great tool written by a Fanatic right here on our forum.
Footnote/disclaimer on this thread, sorry if it seems some of my writing is a bit disjointed. This originally started out as a very simple 1-2 paragraph look what problem I had and how I resolved the issue. But then the thread this took on a life of it own. Many, many additions and edits and although I am not very proud of what I have put together, it will hopefully help some of you out with your problems. If I had enough time, I should really sit down and rewrite this information from the ground up so it is a bit more cohesive and clear, but I think overall most of you can see beyond my ramblings and will get the point. I do from time to time make corrections and additions as needed and as long as this thread has the edit feature still active, I may make slight corrections and additions from time to time. I hope this has helped some BMW owners out with identifying and correcting their issues and allow you to keep you car reliable.
Special thanks for the many other Fanatics that have allowed me to use some of their photos to illustrate this thread and help out the community! Also this information is a work in progress, if there are any mistakes, errors or omissions, please PM me with specific details, corrections and comments
Last edited by jfoj; 01-27-2019 at 05:22 PM. Reason: Updated thread
Registered User
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 211
My Ride: '02 330xi
subscribed for DIY.. thanks!
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Murrieta, CA
Posts: 9,783
My Ride: '94 325iC & '00 323i
The only problem with your post is that the fix for the CEL/MIL depends on the code that accompanies the light. Many of the things you talk about are for the remedy of a lean condition, and there are two codes that come up for that, P0171 and P0174.
These are two codes out of several hundred. So, the best advice when the Check Engine Light comes on is to pull codes and go from there. It is almost always a bad idea to blindly aim your shotgun under the hood and start wrenching on whatever you hit.
OEM ///Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Fairfax, VA USA
Posts: 28,904
My Ride: 330CiC, M5, X5, E93
Agree that you should get codes read and make educated decisions, however, these problems cause more that just the 2 lean codes you listed.
But also from looking at a lot of these cars lately, all e46 are of the age and mileage the the 3 items I listed are VERY common, easy to inspected for and cheap and easy to replace. A few screw drivers and a small socket set is all that is needed to DIY the items I have listed.
This is not like dealing with VANOS O-rings or complete CCV replacement.
Just wanted to put out there the simple and common causes before tackeling the harder and more expensive issues. The assumption is also basic maintenance has been kept up like spark plugs, fuel filter, air filter and so on.
Unfortunately I keep finding owners expecting the more difficult problems and overlooking and/or discounting the simple issues.
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Santa Rosa, CA
Posts: 573
My Ride: '04 330ci ZHP
Great post, you are spot on about the intake boots. On my '04 my intake boot actually had a tear in it, just over 7 years old...
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: SoCal
Posts: 33
My Ride: 2000 328ci
So I took my car to an Indy shop and they said my MAF needed replacement due to all cylinder misfires and stalling. I just picked up a used BMW MAF with matching part #, but it seems the problem is worse. My old MAF responds to the throttle during start up and I can actually drive the car after warm up, but the new one cannot idle at all and it just stalls. It will start up and idle for a second before it just drop. Can someone give me an idea of what will cause the new MAF to do that and not on my old MAF?
OEM ///Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Fairfax, VA USA
Posts: 28,904
My Ride: 330CiC, M5, X5, E93
Forget the new MAF, put the old one back in for now.
Get the trouble codes read and focus at least on the lower CCV oil drain hose and the DISA O-ring.
I expect even if your lower intake elbow is not cracked, it could use a replacement if it is original anyway. You will just eliminate a future problem.
You should get your codes read as it will help start to identify what problems are likely to be happening. And what if any you are correcting. Start a log, write the date and mileage down each time you read the codes, then clear them. This is the only way to track where things are headed with each problem correctly. To many focus on component replacement before eliminating the obvious problems with the cheaper rubber, plastic and O-rings that have all aged and are going to be problems anyway.
Yes there are other issues that can cause your problems, but if you follow my directions, I would be surprised if you do not have problems with at least 2 out of the first 3 things I have listed.
Air/vacuum leaks are a major issue with engine controls on this engine and there are many places they can happen. Almost all of them are rubber or plastic that have gotten old, hard and cracked.
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Central New Jersey
Posts: 1,060
My Ride: 330i ZHP
I have been having some seriouse issue with cold weather start up lately. when I start the car it will start right up but then idles real rough for about 2 min untill the car warms up. The idle dips and and rises and but then becomes stable once the car warms up. I have replaced the CCV as well as the upper and lower intake boot both of which had tears in them but the problem still persists after startup. I also cleaned the ICV and Throttle Body when I did the CCV, once the car is warm however it runs fine. I have the new O-Ring for the DISA that I have to replace and then maybe the hose from the air pump to the air pump check vavle. Hoepfully this solves my problem and I will repost back but I am also going to check that hose on the air pump to see if that is really causing all my issues since i havent purchased that part yet. Since it is on the top of the emgine I can remove and inspect it.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
18 VMR CSL's
Eibach Sport Spring's
UUC Power Pullies
Sprint Booster
CCV Delete
3:38 rear diff
OEM ///Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Fairfax, VA USA
Posts: 28,904
My Ride: 330CiC, M5, X5, E93
Simple test for the SAP check valve vacuum hose is to disconnect the small vacuum hose at the SAP check valve and either blow into the hose (you may need another length of hose and a nipple) and/or connect a hand vacuum pump up to the vacuum hose that connects to the SAP check valve.
You should not be able to blow/move air in this section and/or it should hold a vacuum. This hose has and electric check valve at the other end near the throttle body.
If you can blow/move air or this line does not hold a vacuum, it has a leak. Most likely the hard plastic pipe around the valve cover is broken on the bottom where you cannot see it?
Note this line only has vacuum applied for the first 90 seconds on cold start up. So if you car runs fine from 90-120 seconds and beyond, I would think this is a likely source of your problem.
Would like to hear back what you find.
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Montreal, Canada
Posts: 75
My Ride: 2002 BMW 320i
Great write up!! I'll try some of this stuff out tomorrow, thanks!
OEM ///Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Fairfax, VA USA
Posts: 28,904
My Ride: 330CiC, M5, X5, E93
Added pictures of failed CCV hose and picture of CCV release bail to help understand how this hose connects to the bottom of the CCV.
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 474
My Ride: 02' 325i
OEM ///Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Fairfax, VA USA
Posts: 28,904
My Ride: 330CiC, M5, X5, E93
Just took a look at another car a few hours ago.
2004, lower CCV lower oil drain hose was not rotted yet, however, very soft and on the way out, hose replaced.
DISA seal were in ok shape, could have used the O-ring, however, the DISA flap was spinning on shaft, pin probably broke, dropped out? New DISA ordered.
Original intake boots on the car, will be replacing them as a preventative measure as they are getting old and hard.
What I did find is whomever last worked on the car did not tighten up the upper intake hose to the MAF and the hose was about half way off the MAF.
So the basic problem was the upper intake boot was loose on the MAF and the car has a bad DISA.
This has been causing rough running when cold and codes to trigger. Simple problem, but the owner wants to keep the car at least 2+ more years and plans on keeping it reliable so the DISA, and intake boots will be replaced.
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Queens
Posts: 233
My Ride: 328ci white/red
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
2000 328ci alpine white on tannin red leather
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Bronx, NY
Posts: 2,596
My Ride: 2000 323i
Great info!
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
E46 Gone but not forgotten.
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Ashburn, VA
Posts: 360
My Ride: 2002 325i
M - One letter, one dream!
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: NY
Posts: 238
My Ride: E30
Great post, I am going to look into all of these things. My car throws a misfire - cylinder two on really cold start ups, accompanied with the shakes.
1990 BMW 325is - Stroker Build
2010 MINI Cooper S
1995 Saab 900 SE - JZW Stage 4
OEM ///Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Fairfax, VA USA
Posts: 28,904
My Ride: 330CiC, M5, X5, E93
Update with more details, pictures and part numbers.
Still a work in progress, need to add more part numbers and other details.
I hope people are finding this information useful?
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Amish country, PA
Posts: 705
My Ride: 08/2000 330Cic x2
Yep. Thanks for the DISA o-ring info.
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Cittanova d'Istria-Croazia(Europa)
Posts: 2,244
My Ride: 325ci Performance
interesting discussion
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
|Thread Tools
|Search this Thread
|Display Modes
|Rate This Thread
Linear Mode