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Bath Shower Shower Mixer Mixer dual lever with kit Bath Dual Lever With Kit MBSN422D This product should only be fitted by a qualified plumber to NVQ (National Vocational Qualification) or SNVQ (Scottish National Vocational Qualification) Level 3. Should the installation be completed by a non-qualified person then the guarantee may be considered invalid. For a claim made under our warranty written certification of your installers credentials can be required. For further information or to find a qualified installer in your area please visit the Institute of Plumbers website - www.iphe.org.uk THE QUALIFICATIONS At present, to be a plumber you need to follow the National Vocational Qualification (NVQ) route (Scottish National Vocational Qualification - SNVQ - in Scotland). These qualifications are made up of theory and practical work in the classroom/purpose built training facility and work based experience with a working plumber. Colleges should help students find a work placement, although many students organise it themselves. The S/NVQ qualification works in levels. All recently qualified plumbers should hold S/NVQ Level 2 as basic with Level 3 as the preferred level. Level 2 will give you the foundation you need for a career in plumbing and teach you domestic plumbing to a satisfactory level. Level 3 is more comprehensive and deals with domestic, commercial and industrial plumbing along with aspects such as gas - if you want to one day set up your own business, this is the level to reach. The Institute of Plumbing and Heating Engineering, and the industry as a whole recommends that all plumbers reach a minimum of Level 3. Reaching Level 3 has other advantages. The Institute runs a Master Plumber Certificate, which only those attaining Level 3 or equivalent can reach as long as they have the relevant experience as well. Those with S/NVQ Level 3 can (once in membership with the Institute for five years as a Member MIPHE) gain Engineering Technician EngTech status with the Engineering Council (UK). For any further information please email email@example.com Or visit our web-site at www.adora-bathrooms.co.uk The manufacturer reserves the right to make technical modifications without prior notice. INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS MBSN422D INSTRUCTION DIMENSIONS Please read these instructions carefully and keep in a safe place for further reference. General Installation Requirement The installation must comply with regulations of the Local Water Authority as contained in their bylaws. All of the taps in this range are single flow (the hot and cold water mix in the body) and therefore should be supplied with hot and cold water at balanced pressures. If the taps are not supplied balanced pressures then the mixer will not function correctly. It will also be necessary to fit non-return valves on both the hot and cold feeds. It is very important that all pipework is flushed thoroughly after installation to avoid damaging the ceramic discs. Minimum/Maximum working pressure These taps are suitable for high and low pressure installations. They are fitted with a quarter turn ceramic disc headwork which provides a smooth movement. The minimum work pressure is 0.2bar. The maximum work pressure is 5bar. If the mains pressure is over 5bar, a pressure reducing valve should be fitted. 78 127 100 G1/2 55 Approvals All taps are manufactured using materials tested and approved under the Water Bylaws Scheme and comply with requirements of European standard EN200 where applicable. 147 230 Preparations and bylaw requirements These taps are single flow so the hot and cold water mix in the body. Water Bylaws require that where hot water is supplied from tank and cold from mains, non return valves are fitted on both hot and cold pipes as close as possible to the tap. These are not supplied. Where combination boilers are fitted, it is only necessary to shut off the incoming mains and turn the boiler off and non return valves are not required. Warning Before installing the new mixer, it is essential that you thoroughly flush through the supply pipes in order to remove any remaining swarf, solder or other impurities. Failure to carry out this simple procedure could cause problems or damage to the working of the mixer. These hints are prepared in your guidance; you must exercise due care at all times. We do not accept responsibility for any problems that may occur through incorrect installation . 1 □50 G3/4 180 NOTE: ALL DIMENSIONS IN MILLIMETRES 2 MBSN422D INSTALLATION INSTALLATION First shut off your water heating system, then with your mains stop cock closed, open the lowest cold and hot taps in the house and allow to run until the cold storage tank and pipes are empty (the hot storage cylinder always remains full). Fitting isolating valve to inlet feeds is recommended for ease of maintenance. INSTALLATION Note: Remember to turn off mains water supply before connecting to any existing pipe work. Mixer Key Remove the nuts and washers from the mixer tails. With the base rings seated at mixer base, place the mixer on the bath inserting its tails into holes. Slide the washers and followed by the nuts. Secure the mixer by screwing the nuts finger tight. Afterwards check the mixer is correctly positioned and tighten the nuts. Base ring Please use the key to remove aerator from spout if required. Washer Nut 3 ATTENTION Having first checked all new connections, turn on the mains stop cock, close all taps except the new mixer and as system starts to refill, check for leaks. Once you have satisfied yourself that there are no leaks, switch on the water heating . 4 MBSN422D MAINTENANCE INSTALLATION Cleaning the headwork The concealed headwork should give trouble free service, but in the event of any problem, service is straight forward. Separate the shell and body of shower holder. Once most practical position of the shower holder is agreed, drill holes on the wall and insert wall plugs provided into holes. Fix the body of shower holder on the wall by the screws provided. Push the shell over the body of shower holder. NOTE: The wall plugs/screws may be not suitable, please choose correct screws/fittings for wall type. To remove the headwork Pull off the cap and then use a suitable hex key (not supplied) to loosen the grub screw, but do not remove it. Pull off the handle and then shroud. Loosen the headwork using an adjustable spanner (not supplied). Take the headwork out and wash it with clean running water. Make sure any trapped debris has been removed. Dry and lightly grease the seal (only use silicone grease). Refit the headwork followed by the shroud and handle. Cap Grub screw Handle Shroud Headwork Mixer body CLEANING Insert a washer into each end of the shower hose and then screw it to the shower and mixer. Operations Pull up diverter to operate the shower and it can be locked by turning an angle. Shower Washer The chrome plate we use on our taps is very durable, nevertheless care should be taken when cleaning. It should be cleaned only with warm soapy water followed by rinsing with clean water and drying with a soft cloth. All finishes are vulnerable to acid attack and some strong substances such as household cleaners, disinfectants, denture cleaners, hair dyes, wine making and photographic chemicals can cause surface to go black or peel. Shower holder Diverter Shower hose Washer 5 6
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Useful Tips for Choosing the Best Limo Service
The use of limo service as a transport means for special events such as weddings is becoming increasingly popular. If you attend most weddings, you will see both the bride and groom arriving in a limo. It is because of the luxury and prestige that limo is used in such special occasions. The demand for limo service has led to the emergence of several limo companies. During your research, you will also realize that the limos in the market and ideal for different events. An example of a type of limo meant for a wedding is SUV limo. Choosing the right limo service can be challenging and that is why it is advisable to consider certain key factors so that you can make an informed decision. The article herein will discuss some of the factors that you should consider when hiring limo service.
First and foremost, you should know what you want. Different types of limos are available for different transportation services. Therefore, based on your needs, you should choose the most suitable type of limo. For example, the use of SUV limo is common for special occasions such as a wedding. The type of limo that you choose for your occasion should guarantee both luxury and comfort. Moreover, you will get to stand out in the event.
The second useful tip to employ in hiring limo service is establishing the reliability. Limo service is becoming increasingly popular because of the associated benefits. Hence, you should choose one that will respect your deal. For example, the timely arrival of the limo service will ensure that you arrive on time for the occasion. Also, you should not rule out the possibility of mechanical failure. It is always advisable to choose a company with several limos so that you can avoid any possible inconvenience.
When you hire a limo, you will get a chauffeur. The prestige in limo service is usually contributed by the fact that you will be driven to your destination. The purpose of the driver is to drive you to the occasion and also help you in operating the systems. Before you accept the driver, you should ensure that he or she is proficiency and with a clean driving record. He or she should have years of experience and proof of defensive driving. Also, you should check if the driver has been issued with tickets. This way, you will be sure of safe arrival to your event.
The last factor that you should consider is the cost. Through price comparison, you will find the right limo company that suits your budget. With the help of the above-discussed guide, you will find the best limo company.

subset: commoncrawl


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By Anne Fanatico
NCAT Agriculture Specialist
Published 2007
Updated November 2018 by Kevin Ellis, NCAT Agriculture Specialist
Alternative poultry production usually includes access to pasture or the outdoors. Photo: NCAT
Although access to the outdoors is an important feature of many alternative or free-range production systems, the indoor environment and management are also crucial. Poultry need access to an appropriate indoor environment for good production and welfare. Ideally, poultry should be able to choose their preferred environment, whether inside or outside. Attention to ventilation, temperature, lighting, and litter conditions is necessary. Additional good management practices include rodent control with a minimum of toxic materials. Alternative poultry production is often on a small scale with portable houses. In order to obtain organic certification, special practices may be needed compared to conventional poultry production. Alternative poultry production is a way to boost farm income and add fertility or diversity to a farm while providing specialty poultry products to consumers.
Alternative poultry production is an important part of sustainable agriculture, protecting the environment while addressing consumer concerns. As an alternative to conventional poultry housing, alternative systems are often pasture-based or cage-free. Some may feature large, fixed houses with yards. Others may use small, portable houses regularly moved to fresh pasture. Some may consist of small shelters surrounded by moveable fencing. Alternative poultry production is often small-scale, integrated onto a diversified farm, and certified organic. Although free range is a main feature, environmental conditions inside the house are also important for good welfare—particularly ventilation, temperature, lighting, and litter.
|Related ATTRA publications
|Poultry: Equipment for Alternative Production
|Range Poultry Housing
|Alternative Poultry Production Systems and Outdoor Access
|Arsenic in Poultry Litter: Organic Regulations
A lot of information is available on environmental control in conventional poultry production. This publication, however, focuses on alternative production, for which information is less available. Nonetheless, some practices apply to both alternative and conventional production.
This publication provides how-to information about environment and management in alternative poultry production and highlights the practices of innovative producers. Many of the practices described here can be employed in organic production. For more information on certified organic regulations and practices, see ATTRA's Organic Poultry Production. For information on other production topics, such as breeds, feed, and health, refer to other resources, including the ATTRA publications listed here. For information on providing outdoor access and managing the outdoor area, see ATTRA's Alternative Poultry Production Systems and Outdoor Access.
Poultry housing should be weatherproof to provide protection from the elements (cold, rain, wind, and hot sun) and provide warmth, especially during brooding. Housing should also provide good ventilation, as well as protection from predators. Many innovative housing designs are used in alternative poultry production, including fixed houses with permanent foundations, mobile houses, and simple shelters.
The indoor area is just as important as the outdoor area in free-range poultry production. Photo: NCAT
Birds and equipment should be inspected at least twice per day to monitor health and identify any problems. Caretakers should be trained in bird management and welfare. They should treat the birds calmly with no rough handling. Although birds usually have outdoor access, additional enrichments can be used in houses to improve welfare of birds, and these include roosts, straw bales, and scratch grains.
For information on small-scale housing design, materials, and construction plans, see ATTRA's Range Poultry Housing. For information on waterers, feeders, fencing, roosts, and nestboxes, see ATTRA's Poultry: Equipment for Alternative Production. The conventional poultry industry has extensive information on large-scale housing, environmental control, and equipment that can be used for large-scale free-range or cage-free production. See Commercial Chicken Production Manual (Bell and Weaver, 2002) or Extension materials. Detailed information on ventilation, lighting, and other types of environmental control are available on the University of Georgia's Poultry House Environmental Control Website.
Although small, portable houses may or may not use power, reliable power is important in large houses to power equipment such as ventilation systems, fans, lights, heat, and motors for automated feeding systems. Diesel generators can be used for power in a poultry house if electricity isn't available, and they are also useful for backup power in case of an electrical outage.
The body temperature of an adult chicken is 105°F to 107°F (40.6°C to 41.7°C). The thermo-neutral zone, which allows chickens to maintain their body temperature, is 65°F to 75°F (18°C to 24°C). If the temperature is above this zone, heat must be lost in some way. Chickens have no sweat glands. Because eating increases body temperature, chickens reduce their feed intake during hot weather, and therefore gains will be less. Chickens begin panting at 85°F (29.4°C) to help dissipate heat, and drink more to avoid dehydration. A combination of high temperature and high humidity is a problem because panting does not cool them under these conditions (Bell and Weaver, 2002). In the United States, heat is usually more of a problem than cold. Fast-growing broilers are particularly susceptible to heat stress due to their high level of production. Producers should provide abundant cool drinking water in close proximity to the birds, both inside and outside the housing.
In cold months, while the conventional industry usually uses propane heaters for heating, many alternative poultry producers do not heat houses, relying only on the body warmth of the birds for heat. It may be more cost-effective to heat the house instead of paying for more feed. Heaters, such as gas brooders or heaters, can even be provided in small portable houses, with a gas tank mounted on a trailer to be moved along with the house.
Open windows help increase natural ventilation. Photo: NCAT
To modulate temperatures, insulation under the roof is important in any climate; insulation in the walls is also helpful. During hot weather, insulation keeps heat from entering the building, and during cold weather, it keeps heat from leaving. The greater the difference between the inside temperature and the outside temperature, the greater the need for insulation. Proper ventilation will also help regulate house temperature. Each house should have a thermometer to display the current temperature as well as the high and low temperatures in a daily period, and producers should pay attention to weather forecasts.
Ventilation brings fresh air into a poultry house and removes heat, moisture, and gases (Bell and Weaver, 2002). Ventilation designs may be natural or mechanical. Most houses in alternative poultry production depend on natural ventilation, because doorways are usually open to provide outdoor access. There may also be additional air inlets, side curtains, or large windows that can be opened to allow more ventilation in hot weather. Ridge vents in the roof —"whirly bird" vents— allow hot air to escape. Natural ventilation makes use of the movement of air (warm air rises and cold air falls) and wind currents. A roof at least six feet tall will allow sufficient height differential for cool air to enter through low air inlets and warm air to escape through high vents. There is less control in natural ventilation than mechanical.
Curtains can be lowered to provide natural ventilation. Photo: NCAT
The reasons for ventilating during winter and summer are different. During warm months, the purpose is to remove heat and control the temperature in the house, and therefore large amounts of air are moved. During cold months, the ventilation system must remove moisture and gases, especially ammonia, while conserving heat. This is tricky because producers tend to want to keep houses closed up tight to conserve heat. Adequate ventilation is accomplished by controlling air inlets and is possible because warm air holds more moisture than cold air does. Therefore, during cold weather, producers can bring small amounts of air into a house with high moisture in the air, allow the fresh air to heat to room temperature and, when this air leaves, it takes moisture out of the house (Bell and Weaver, 2002).
Mechanical ventilation systems use fans to direct air into the house (positive pressure) or exhaust air from the house (negative pressure). The negative-pressure system is most common and controls the air inlet to help mix the incoming fresh air with the air in the house (Bell and Weaver, 2002). Mechanical ventilation is less appropriate for free-range houses because it requires the doorways to be closed to maintain "static pressure." For more information see Appendix 1: Mechanical Ventilation.
Fans can help exhaust air and moisture out of a house. Photo: NCAT
Poultry are very sensitive to light. Light not only allows them to be active and find their food, but it also stimulates their brains for seasonal reproduction. Light is perceived through the eyes but can also be received by other receptors in the brain, after penetrating the feathers, skin, and skull. Even blind birds respond to light. In the spectrum of visible light, blue light has relatively short wavelengths, while red light has long (see Table 1). Because red wavelengths are longer, they are more able to penetrate to the brain to stimulate activity and reproduction and even aggression. If the light intensity is low, then the wavelength is important. However, if light intensity is high, then wavelength is not as important (Bell and Weaver, 2002).
Birds need a dark period for good health. They only produce melatonin—a hormone important in immune function—during dark periods. Welfare programs usually require at least four to six hours of dark daily, with some programs requiring eight hours of darkness (Animal Welfare Approved, 2017). Many alternative poultry producers use only natural light and therefore have a long dark period. Dark periods can be especially helpful for fast-growing broilers in the first weeks of life to slow growth, build frame, and reduce leg disorders. Baby chicks, however, need 24 hours of light the first three days to ensure that they learn to find food and water. In contrast, the conventional poultry industry uses long light periods to encourage feed consumption and weight gain by fast-growing broilers, because birds do not eat in the dark. When birds have a dark period, they are more active during the light period than birds that have continuous light.
|Table 1. The spectrum of visible light
In the United States, light intensity is measured in foot-candles (fc): the amount of light emitted by a standard candle at one foot away; lux is a metric measurement. Alternative poultry production tends to use a higher light intensity than conventional. Most welfare programs require at least 1 fc light intensity; above 1 fc leads to increased activity, which can reduce leg problems but results in decreased weight gains (Bell and Weaver, 2002). A curtain-sided house may have a light intensity of 200 fc or more when the sun is overhead, but this depends on cloud cover (Bell and Weaver, 2002). The conventional industry typically keeps light intensity low in poultry houses to reduce activity and help birds gain weight more efficiently. The conventional industry uses about 0.5 fc or less, similar to a moonlit night, for broilers and layers.
Both conventional and alternative egg producers use artificial lighting to stimulate production during days of declining natural light, resulting in a more constant supply of eggs. Small-scale producers often use 14 hours of light for layers. Generally, the light period should not be longer than the longest day of the year. Day length should not be increased for young growing pullets or they will begin producing eggs too soon; likewise, day length should not be decreased for layers and breeders in production or they will stop producing eggs.
Sunlight is a broad-spectrum white light and contains all the wavelengths of visible light. Common types of artificial light are incandescent and fluorescent. Incandescent lights are a broad-spectrum light with a predominance of long (red) wavelengths. Fluorescent lights are a variable light spectrum, depending on their manufacture. Two types commonly used in poultry houses are "warm white" and "cool white." Warm white has a predominance of long yellow wavelengths, and cool white has a predominance of shorter blue-to-green wavelengths. Fluorescent lights come in tube and compact forms. The 2700K compact is similar to the "warm white" and the 2700K tube is similar to the "cool white." Incandescent lights are easier and less expensive to purchase and install, but fluorescent bulbs are more energy-efficient, have a longer life, and can be dimmed with special equipment. However, as the lamp ages, fluorescent lights lose lumen output. The life expectancy of incandescent bulbs is usually 1,000 hours; fluorescent can last 20,000 hours (Bell and Weaver, 2002).
For growers using incandescent lighting, small-flock producer Robert Plamondon in Oregon has the following recommendations (Plamondon, 2003):
Providing additional light in the morning instead of the evening will allow a natural dusk for the birds and allow them to choose their roosts for the night. However, a dimmer can be used to create dusk conditions. On a timer, it is necessary to make adjustments (usually weekly) to keep the day length at a certain length. Instead of regularly adjusting timers, Plamondon uses a dusk-to-dawn light-sensing switch that will turn the light off during the day (no waste of electricity) and turn it on at night. He turns lights off in the spring.
In a house without electricity, batteries (such as a 12-volt) can be used to power lighting. An inverter can be used if there is a need to switch from DC to AC voltage. Companies in the U.K. offer 12-volt lighting systems specifically for mobile poultry housing (see here).
A solar panel can recharge batteries. Henlight is an LED lighting unit powered by a solar panel, meant to be installed in mobile laying-hen coops. The LED light provides the correct wavelength needed to stimulate egg production, while staying cool and posing no health risk to the flock. LED lighting is relatively new. Although expensive, LED lights are more durable and last longer than other lighting sources and are a viable option for farmers.
In the absence of electricity, poultry houses may be lit by other means. For example, large Amish poultry houses without electricity are sometimes lighted with Coleman lanterns, which burn naptha gas, and kerosene lamps.
Wood shavings are typically used as bedding in poultry houses. Photo: NCAT
Litter management is very important in most poultry production systems. Floors in poultry houses are usually concrete, wood, or earthen, with some kind of litter used to cover the floor. Litter dilutes manure and absorbs moisture, provides cushioning and insulation for the birds, and captures nutrients for spreading outside where desired. Litter is also a medium for birds to scratch and is important for welfare. Litter should not only be absorbent, but also allow birds to have traction while moving, in order to avoid leg injuries or deformities. Litter materials should also be comfortable for birds to both walk and sit on.
Alternatively, birds can be raised on slat flooring through which the droppings fall into a pit below for later removal. Keeping droppings dry will reduce odors and flies.
Common litter materials include soft wood shavings or rice hulls. Other materials that may be suitable include sand, dried wood fiber, peanut hulls, and chopped pine straw. Small-scale poultry producers have tried various materials and have identified some problems: hay and straw become slimy, chicks eat sawdust, wood chips are costly, and hardwood shavings can splinter and cause skin punctures. When applying fresh wood chips, producers should remove any large, sharp pieces to reduce the chances of injury to birds. Litter material should be high in carbon to prevent loss of nitrogen, and it should compost well.
Litter is normally spread two to four inches deep and maintained at 20% to 30% moisture. Birds have a concentrated form of waste called uric acid, which makes it possible to keep a lot of birds on litter, but moisture can build up. If litter feels damp to the back of the hand, it is probably at least 30% moisture. The house should be ventilated well to remove moisture in the air, and water leaks or sources of moisture such as condensation from uninsulated metal roofs or leaking waterers should be repaired. Litter moisture can be evaluated quickly. When a handful of litter is squeezed, the ball should begin to break up when released. When the litter is too wet, it remains balled up. When litter is too dry, it will not ball up.
High moisture in litter is very problematic, resulting in "cake," or a nonabsorbent crust. Caking occurs especially under waterers or in other high-impact areas. Wet litter causes breast blisters and sores on the birds' foot pads and hocks, and pathogens and parasites such as coccidia proliferate. In wet litter, uric acid is converted by bacteria to ammonia. Ammonia is a toxic gas that can damage the respiratory system of the birds and make them more susceptible to infections. Ammonia levels should not exceed 25 parts per million (ppm) in the house. Levels can be measured with an ammonia meter, but these are expensive. Inexpensive methods are ammonia strips, or dräger tubes (see the Further Resources section). Ammonia measurements should be taken at bird level on a regular basis and particularly at finishing. Fly larvae also grow in wet litter and can be a nuisance.
Conditions should be maintained to prevent cake, but if it develops, some producers rototill their litter during production, while the birds are present, to loosen the cake. After loosening, cake should be removed. Tilling the litter may cause a spike in ammonia that should be dissipated as quickly as possible through open windows or with fans. According to Virginia producer Joel Salatin, at a low stocking density the bedding is tilled and aerated as fast as the birds manure, so it does not cake (1996). Tossing in whole grains may encourage birds to scratch and till. Heavy broilers are not as active at tilling litter as layers.
Litter is removed after the flock is finished, and the house is cleaned. In meat-bird production, the litter is often kept in place and reused for several flocks. If it is to be re-used, cake needs to be removed with a pitchfork or decaking equipment. Used litter should be top-dressed with fresh litter. Waiting two to three weeks between flocks can reduce the chance or likelihood of disease problems for the new flock. The litter should not be reused if disease occurred in the flock.
Litter treatments are added to re-used litter in the conventional poultry industry to reduce the formation of ammonia from nitrogen by lowering the pH. Typical poultry litter has a pH between 9 and 10 (Blake and Hess, 2001). Ammonia release is low when the environment is acidic (pH is less than 7). Low pH will also inhibit microorganisms, including pathogenic bacteria like salmonella. Poultry Litter Treatment (PLT), or sodium bisulfite, is the most common litter treatment. Aluminum sulfate is also used to reduce ammonia release, but these materials are not permitted in organic production. Soft rock phosphate can be used as a litter amendment to control odor and to reduce flies. Note that hydrated lime is not permitted in organic production to deodorize animal wastes.
Used litter is removed from large houses with machinery. In small houses, litter is removed by hand, which is very labor-intensive. After removal from the house, manure and litter are usually spread on pasture and other agricultural land. In many areas, poultry manure and litter are a great benefit and add valuable nutrients such as nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K) to the soil. Poultry manure has 3.84% nitrogen, 2.01% phosphorus, and 1.42% potassium on a dry basis (Bell and Weaver, 2002). On a fresh basis, there is more moisture in the manure, which dilutes the amounts of nutrients. As a rule of thumb, the amount of manure is equal to the amount of feed provided (Bell and Weaver, 2002).
Composting the litter adds further value to the manure because compost is an excellent soil amendment. Usually, more carbon material needs to be added to increase the carbon:nitrogen ratio. During composting, ammonia is released to the atmosphere, which lowers the nitrogen in the final product. Organic standards for compost require that starting carbon:nitrogen ratios be between 25:1 and 40:1. See Appendix 2 for information on composting poultry litter. Litter can also be composted in the poultry house after the birds have been removed. To do this, windrows are made in the house and the litter is re-spread after composting. The building must be ventilated so that gases can escape.
The manure/litter from poultry houses has a natural tie to organic crop production. Synthetic fertilizers are not allowed in organic crop production; poultry litter has the advantage of being a natural fertilizer (as long as synthetic materials are not added to it).
Unfortunately, in high poultry-producing areas, manure/litter has become a liability because there is so much of it. Phosphorus is a nutrient pollutant because it may end up in runoff water, allowing algae to grow and contributing to water-quality problems. Litter/manure cannot be dumped on land without consideration of crop/forage needs. Nutrient application from animal waste is becoming more regulated in the United States, and nutrient inventories are kept on the farm. Regulations vary by state and are phosphorus-based or nitrogen-based. Best management practices are important in applying animal waste to land, such as incorporating litter instead of surface application, vegetative buffer strips to capture runoff nutrients prior to reaching waterways, and other practices. In some parts of the country, litter should not be spread during the winter because the ground is frozen, or crops may only be fertilized in spring and summer, so proper storage is required for litter.
An alternative type of litter management is composting litter while the birds are in the house in order to reduce the volume of litter and create a healthy environment. This process has received little scientific attention since the 1950s. It usually starts with at least six inches of litter. The poultry till and aerate the litter, or the litter may be tilled with machinery. Thin layers of fresh litter are added with new flocks or if the litter becomes wet. Small flock producer Robert Plamondon uses this technique and removes only half the litter at a time, when the accumulation becomes too much for the house. Although composting litter is a form of composting or decomposition, it is not as efficient as the composting process described in Appendix 2. The amount of decomposition that occurs depends on the number of birds in relation to amount of litter and temperature. The carbon:nitrogen ratio is not likely to be ideal unless a lot of extra litter is added. Producer Joel Salatin adds enough litter to keep the carbon:nitrogen ratio at 30:1, but doing so is expensive (1996). There may be some heat from decomposition, and ammonia gas is produced, so the house should be well ventilated. Salatin says the bedding pack must be at least 12 inches deep to work (1996). Composting litter is rich in Vitamin B12, most likely due to the presence of microbes.
A poultry house of any size can have poor air quality if ammonia and dust levels are high. In large houses, air emissions to the outside are an issue for environmental air quality. Tree shelter belts have been used around houses as a way to capture emissions. Again, keeping litter dry helps reduce ammonia. In addition to ammonia and dust levels, it is also important to monitor hydrogen sulfide, carbon dioxide, and carbon monoxide levels, especially in large houses. Pasture-based or free-range systems have the advantage of fresh air.
Poultry flocks start their development in the brooder where they are kept warm and given unrestricted access to food and clean water. Photo: NCAT
Brooding is a critical period for poultry. New chicks can't maintain their own temperatures, so they are usually brooded until they are fully feathered. In natural brooding, the mother hen provides heat, but in artificial brooding, heat is provided by an external heater. A brooder should provide a warm, dry, and secure environment to encourage good health and proper development.
Large-scale broiler producers usually brood in the same building where the birds will be kept to market age, which is "one-stage production." Layers and turkeys usually use a "two-stage" system in which a different growing facility is used after brooding. Small producers often use two-stage production; they brood in a central building and then move the birds out to small portable houses on pasture after brooding. The brooding building may be located close to home so the producer can keep a close eye on the young chicks. However, moving birds to a new facility after brooding is labor-intensive and a source of stress for the chicks. Brooding in the field in small portable houses reduces the need for moving chicks and allows early access to range, but field brooding requires an insulated house, small brooders, propane tanks, and battery-run lights in each house.
Brooding can be "spot-brooding" vs. "whole-house" brooding. Spot-brooding heats a localized area, while whole-house brooding heats an entire room. This is also called "cool-room" vs. "warm-room" brooding, respectively. In the past, very cold-room brooding was practiced in drafty barns or other outbuildings. The brooder was surrounded with curtains or insulation to prevent heat from being lost to the room. This method fell out of practice as brooding and poultry production moved to large poultry houses, and brooders of this type are no longer available.
Heat lamps can be used as a source of warmth for chicks in the brooder. Photo: NCAT
A brooding house must have good ventilation while preventing drafts. Although some small producers use a dedicated, purpose-built structure or building, many improvise with an out-building. Brooder guards (usually cardboard) stop floor drafts.
Many small producers of poultry use spot brooding in a variety of setups with an electrical heat lamp. Heat lamps are generally used above a box that keeps the chicks close to the heat source and reduces drafts. This set-up is usually placed in a residence or an outbuilding. According to producer Robert Plamondon, a 250-watt heat lamp suspended 18 to 24 inches over the brooding area, completely surrounded by a draft guard 18 to 24 inches high, will brood 75 chicks at 50°F minimum room temperature. This method is dependent on the presence of an effective draft guard. Heat lamps should be fastened securely so that they do not drop into the brooder and become a fire hazard. Many hardware stores carry heat lamps.
Suspended propane hover for use in the brooder. Photo: NCAT
Brooder boxes can be placed in the brooder to allow chicks to walk underneath for warmth. Photo: NCAT
Hovers are brooders with a canopy to keep warm air close to the ground to warm chicks. Hovers are usually suspended from the ceiling. In large-scale production, hover brooders often have an umbrella or pancake shape and are fueled by propane or natural gas. Again, cardboard brooder guards provide protection from floor drafts.
Standing hovers are placed on the floor above the birds. On his website, Plamondon describes a box-shaped, standing hover that is insulated and heated by electric lamps. It was developed in the 1940s by the Ohio Experiment Station and was popular for small flocks. It was designed for brooding under farm conditions—in drafty barns and in portable houses on range. It can be insulated by adding litter on top or by adding aluminized bubble wrap inside.
Brooder boxes are a type of very small hover. These are individual boxes that contain their own electrical heating element, feeder, and waterer and are placed on the floor on litter.
Space heaters heat an entire area; they are not placed directly above the birds as hovers are.
Propane heaters can be suspended from the ceiling of a poultry house. Photo: NCAT
Battery brooders are a unit of brooder boxes stacked on top of each other, separated by wire floors. It may be possible to find older, used battery brooders from commercial operations. When using a battery brooder, the room should be kept above 60°F and ventilated well (Plamondon, 2003). Paper or plastic liners on the manure trays make removing manure easier.
Propane usually keeps litter drier than electric heat lamps. It is easier to keep a stable temperature during brooding with propane heat and the addition of thermostats. Backup heat is needed for electrical set-ups because electrical outages are always a concern.
The brooding area should be prepared with fresh litter and heated before the chicks arrive, so that the litter is warm. The temperature at the start of brooding is 90 to 95°F and is reduced by 5°F every week until it reaches the ambient temperature, or for two to four weeks. The chicks should be able to move away from the heat when they desire. The chicks are well distributed when the temperature is right for them. If it is cold, they will huddle. If it is too hot, they will spread away from the heat source.
Chick-size waterers and feeders are used during brooding because chicks can fall into waterers and get chilled. Feed should be provided on the floor in a shallow pan, so the chicks can easily find it. Feed should be replaced frequently to remove manure that may build up. Dipping the beaks of a few of the chicks in water and feed will help them learn quickly to eat and drink, and the other chicks will imitate them. When placing the chicks in the brooder, provide round- the-clock light to help chicks find food. Dark periods can be added after a few days. "Starve-outs" are chicks that don't learn to drink and eat. Turkey poults, in particular, are susceptible to this, as well as to stress and chilling. Electrolyte supplements can be added to water if chicks have been stressed during shipping. Adding one tablespoon of sugar per gallon of water is also useful to provide energy for the first days the flock will be in the brooder. Other producers have used one tablespoon apple cider vinegar and one teaspoon blackstrap molasses to a gallon of water. Supplements in the water are only useful the first day because the chicks find the feed after that. Supplements need to be organic if the flock is certified organic.
During the brooding period, a chick's legs can be susceptible to deformities such as splayed legs, which can be permanent. This is often due to a slick walking surface in the brooder. To lower the risk for leg problems, a layer of burlap or paper towels can be laid on top of the bedding material for the first one to two weeks of brooding. This will allow the chicks to get traction as they move around the brooder and will allow their legs to develop in a healthy manner.
Some producers provide outdoor access or harvested forage during brooding. Finely chopped grass or pieces of turf may help chicks become accustomed to digesting forage and the microbes they encounter outside; small grit should be provided to help their gizzards grind fibrous feed. Three-week-old chicks are still at risk from cold temperature when placed on pasture. They should have access to a warm place or a heat source. The traditional time to move birds out to pasture is when they are well feathered. Fast-growing broilers usually leave the brooder at three to four weeks. Layer chicks are slower-growing and may need heat until four to five weeks, depending on weather.
Rodent control is a very important management practice in poultry production: rats kill chicks, eat feed, and spread disease. Problem rodents for U.S. poultry production include the Norway rat (Rattus norvegicus), the roof rat (Rattus rattus), and the house mouse (Mus musculus) (Scanes et al., 2003). Rodent control is a systems-based approach of prevention and exclusion including the following:
Habitat reduction. Vegetation should be kept short around houses, spilled feed cleaned up, and hide-outs dismantled, including scrap piles. Rodents should be exposed so they are vulnerable to predation.
Exclusion. Concrete or gravel floors help keep rodents from tunneling into a house. In a small portable house with a raised floor, the space between the ground and the floor provides attractive, darkened nesting sites, unless the floor is high enough above the ground that rodents do not feel protected. Poultry feed should be stored in rodent-proof containers.
Traps. Traps include snap traps, sticky traps, or mechanical "tin cat" traps.
Predators. Cats and dogs can help control rodents; rat terriers are especially helpful. Barn owls eat rodents but also eat chicks unless the chicks are in predator-proof houses at night. Birds of prey will also attack fully grown poultry when they are out on pasture.
Bait. Rodenticides are chemicals that kill rodents and are incorporated into attractive food or baits.
Most rodenticides are not permitted in organic programs. The only approved synthetic rodenticide materials for use in organic production are sulfur dioxide and Vitamin D3. If either is used, it must be included in the Organic System Plan.
Anticoagulants. Because these rodenticides prevent blood clotting, the rodent dies through internal bleeding. The well-known Warfarin© was the first type developed. Multiple-dose anticoagulants are the safest type to use because a rodent has to nibble the bait several times to be affected. Single-dose anticoagulatants are more lethal and work faster but are less safe around children and pets.
Baits come in several forms: blocks, bulk pellets, and pellet place packs. Norway rats live underground in burrows, where bulk pellets can be placed. Roof rats and mice can be controlled with blocks (Bruesch, 2005) that are nailed or tied down to prevent them from being dragged away to store. Putting bait in a bait station will keep random animals from eating the bait. Baits are usually rotated to prevent rodents from becoming accustomed to them. Sulfur dioxide smoke bombs are permitted in organic production as an underground rodent control.
For more information on rodents and their control, see Mississippi State University's Controlling Rodents on the Poultry Farm.
Deterrents. There are many types of deterrents, such as sound or light. For example, owl predator lights will startle owls that are preying on birds at night. Some producers hang CDs or pie tins to reflect light and throw off an owl's sense of sight. Some producers use blinking holiday lights or "predator eyes" to imitate the look of a larger, unknown predator.
In addition to controlling rodents, producers should also control wild birds because they can introduce disease. Screening openings will prevent wild birds from entering the house; their nests should be removed from the house.
In addition to outdoor access, an appropriate indoor environment is important for birds in alternative poultry production. Attention to good ventilation, proper lighting, litter management, and air quality will help maintain performance while providing good welfare.
Animal Welfare Approved. 2017. Laying Hen Standards.
Bell, Donald D., and William D. Weaver. 2002. Commercial Chicken Production Manual, 5th Ed. Kluwer Academic Publishers, Norwell, MA.
Blake, John and Joseph Hess. 2001. Litter treatments for poultry. ANR-1199. Alabama Cooperative Extension Service. Auburn, AL
Bruesch, Ted. 2005. Develop plan to eliminate rodents in poultry houses. Feedstuffs. November 7. p. 15.
Cooperband, L. 2002. The Art and Science of Composting: A Resource for Farmers and Compost Producers. Center for Integrated Agricultural Systems. University of Wisconsin, Madison, WI.
Plamondon, Robert. 2003. Success with Baby Chicks. Norton Creek Farm Press, Blodget, OR.
Salatin, Joel. 1996. Pastured Poultry Profit$. Polyface, Swoope, VA.
Scanes, Colin G., George Brant, and M. E. Ensminger. 2003. Poultry Science. 4th Edition. Prentice Hall, Upper Saddle River, NJ.
Auburn University
National Poultry Technology Center
Poultry Ventilation and Housing
Auburn University offers a website devoted to innovations directly relating to the management of poultry houses.
Controlling Rodents on the Poultry Farm. 2017. By Tom Tabler, Morgan Farnell, Jessica Wells, Haitham Yakout, and Yi Liang. Mississippi State University, Starkville, MS.
Mississippi State University
Poultry Science Department
46 Old Bully
Mississippi State, MS 39762
Mississippi State University has a publication that covers rodent control in poultry houses.
Litter Treatments for Poultry. 2001. By John Blake and Joseph Hess. ANR-1199. Alabama Cooperative Extension Service. Auburn, AL.
UGA Poultry House Environmental Management and Energy Conservation
University of Georgia Department of Poultry Science
Poultry Science Building
Athens, GA 30602-2772
Fax: 706-542-1827
The University of Georgia offers a website devoted to innovations directly relating to the management of poultry houses.
1440 Field of Dreams
Way Dyersville, IA
Fax: 800-457-8887
Henlight, LLC
Davis, California 95618
Rooster Booster Poultry Lighting
Selmech Supplies LTD
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Components of mechanical ventilation include static pressure and cubic feet per minute (cubic meters per second). Static pressure is the difference between inside and outside atmospheric pressure. It is positive or negative depending on whether fans exhaust air from the building (negative) or blow air into the building (positive) (Bell and Weaver, 2002). The measurement cubic feet per minute (cfm) describes the volume of air entering an air inlet. For a ventilation system that operates under negative pressure year-round, a minimum requirement of 1.5 cfm per pound of bodyweight should be provided for laying hens and 1.25 cfm per pound of bodyweight for broilers to provide oxygen and to remove excess heat, moisture, and gases. If the birds need to be cooled, higher air volume is required. Less ventilation is needed for chicks (0.1 cfm per chick). A 36-inch fan provides about 10,000 cfm. About 15 to 20 square feet of inlet opening is required for each 36-inch exhaust fan (Bell and Weaver, 2002). For cool-weather ventilation, a chicken house that is 40 feet wide should have one 36-inch fan for every 100 feet of house length. Fans can be controlled with thermostats. During cold weather, when ammonia is a problem, thermostats may need to be set in order to remove ammonia more often (Bell and Weaver, 2002).
Air inlets control the volume of air entering the house. Large openings allow air to enter at a slower speed, while small openings allow it to enter at a higher speed. A stream of air (air jet) is used to mix fresh air with moist, ammonia-laden air during cold periods, and to mix fresh air with hot air in warm periods. With no air jet, there is no ability to mix air and the air will just drift toward the fans. Or cold air may fall to floor level, where it chills the birds. Ideally, air jets should be able to reach the center of the house in order to properly mix fresh air with air in the house (Bell and Weaver, 2002). Air inlets are usually located under the eaves along the sidewalls of the house or on the ends of the house. Air inlets should direct air across the ceiling to the center of the house during cold weather, to allow proper mixing of fresh cold air with warm air. If a house has a slightly negative pressure, the air will enter the inlets at 500 to 1,000 feet per minute, which is fast enough to reach the warm air that collects in the ceiling area. In warm weather, air inlets should direct air right above the birds for maximum cooling. It is helpful to have a winch that can open and close inlets (Bell and Weaver, 2002).
Evaporative cooling can cool air in the houses even in humid areas. A system includes evaporative cooling pads and foggers. Tunnel ventilation can be used to remove heat in the summer and increase air speed to cool birds as it passes over them (convective cooling). The fans are located on one side of the house and the air inlets on the other.
Poultry litter is an excellent feedstock for composting. Composting is controlled decomposition, the natural breakdown process of organic materials (Cooperband, 2002). Raw materials are transformed into biologically stable, humic substances that are an organic-matter source with a unique ability to improve the chemical, physical, and biological characteristics of soil. In compost, nutrients are present in the same amounts but in a less-soluble form, and compost has less odor than raw litter. However, some nitrogen (N) escapes during composting, so the phosphorus (P) is more concentrated in compost. Due to the action of microbes, volume of compost is reduced compared to the original litter.
"Water and carbon dioxide lost during composting reduce the litter volume by 25-50 percent and the litter weight by 40-80 percent" (Cooperband, 2002). Composting occurs through the activity of microorganisms naturally found in soils, which colonize the material and start the composting process. During the active phase of composting, the temperatures in the pile get high enough to kill pathogens. The pile should be at least one cubic yard in order to retain heat. During this phase, oxygen must be replenished by aeration or turning of the pile. During the curing phase, temperatures lower, organic materials continue to decompose, and they are converted to biologically stable humic substances. Optimal conditions for rapid composting include a carbon:nitrogen ratio of 25:1 to 35:1, moisture content of 45% to 60%, available oxygen of more than 10%, particle size of less than one inch, bulk density of 1,000 pounds per cubic yard, pH of 6.5 to 8, and temperature of 130°F to 140°F (Cooperband, 2002). If the carbon:nitrogen ratio is less than 20:1, the microbes have surplus nitrogen (N), which can be lost to the atmosphere as ammonia gas. Also the pH should be less than 7.5 to prevent ammonia formation. In order to compost poultry litter, additional shavings or carbon sources may need to be added. If conditions are not optimal, anaerobic decomposition may occur, which produces foul-smelling sulfur and takes longer to compost. Composting bird carcasses (mortalities) is usually done in a bin.
Poultry House Management for Alternative Production
By Anne Fanatico, NCAT Agriculture Specialist
Published 2007
Updated Novemver 2018 by Kevin Ellis, NCAT Agriculture Specialist
Tracy Mumma, Editor
Amy Smith, Production
Abigail Larson, HTML Production
Slot 303
Version 112618
This page was last updated on: April 30, 2019


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LEGO train railroad crossing American USA style level crossing for train
LEGO train railroad crossing American USA style level crossing for trainLEGO train railroad crossing American USA style level crossing for train it can go with 60052 66493 60179 60198 please note they are not from these sets.
This is a custom set for 2 lego railroad crossings. I was lucky enough to visit the US for my 50th birthday (I live in Lancashire, Enland). I took lots of pictures of American road signs and using my reference photos (and google) I have recreated a traditional American railroad crossing. The set has lots of handmade decals that I designed and that I make using water slide paper then hand cutting and carefully placing on the bricks. The set also has a few clever little methods for getting the pieces in the right places. If you're buying for a child they may need some help as the construction is a little unusual and a little tricky in places. It comes with instructions.
We also have overhead traffic lights, US and UK road signs, roadworks, level crossings, buffers, train signals, a water tower, pallets, level crossing sets, bridges, water tower and shipping containers, a speed camera set, countryside signs, one way and no entry signs, a pay on exit parking set, pay and display set, pay at meter, zebra crossing, traffic lights with a pedestrian crossing available. We have a large variety of train road and traffic sets.
You get everything you see in the main photograph.
This is a custom set using genuine new lego bought in bulk and separated into the sets. The set comes in pieces for you to have fun assembling and is packed in our own packaging.
Great addition to train sets 60052 66493 60178 60198 60197.
We have a large variety of road and traffic sets. Have a look at our other listings.
Included: ALL NEW LEGO as pieces
Set of pieces with special decals on
Posts for the signs
Moveable barriers
Extra 1x1 rounds to choose the crossing lights
Changes: We have standard listings but we're happy to make changes and mix and match between listings (an example might be to change a hat to hair or swap a minifigure). If it doesn't cost us any more money then we'll be able to do it for free. If there is a cost, either in parts or design work, we'll give you a quote. Just message us either before you buy or as soon as you've bought.
White and clear bricks used to pose the lego are not included in the sale.
WARNING: CHOKING HAZARD. This set contains small parts and is unsuitable for children under 4 years old.
Feedback: We hope that you're happy with your purchase and can leave us great feedback, we really enjoy reading it. If, however, there is anything that needs sorting out please contact us and give us the opportunity to refund or replace.
Packaging: Our smaller sets come in blister ready for you to assemble. Larger sets come with instructions. Very big sets like the bridge or water towers will come packaged in a cardboard box as they are too large for our blister packs.
International buyers (non UK): The standard service ships to most countries in about 12 working days but is not tracked. If you require tracked service it is usually about double the price of the normal service. Please contact us to request it as soon as you buy and we'll get a quote for you.
Returns policy: We accept returns up to 30 days after purchase. If you wish to return an item please contact us first so that we can let you know which of our addresses to send it to. If we've made a mistake we pay the return postage. If you have just changed your mind you pay the postage. We'd just like to know why you're returning the item so we can learn and get better.
Lego: Our sets are made from genuine Lego unless it says otherwise in the main listing. LEGO® is a trademark of the LEGO Group of companies which does not sponsor, authorize or endorse this set.
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Dylan Walsh
Master of Environmental Management 2011
Dylan Walsh is a freelance writer based in Chicago, Illinois. He most regularly covers issue related to the U.S. criminal justice system. He also writes about science and the environment. He has published online and in print in The New Yorker, The New York Times, The Atlantic, The Guardian, Orion, and Yale Alumni Magazine, among other outlets. He also works as a writer and editor for several universities around the country.
Dylan is a 2011 graduate of the School of Forestry & Environmental Studies. You can see a selection of his writing at https://www.dylancwalsh.com


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Owner checks and services
Certain basic maintenance checks and inspections should be performed by the owner or a service technician at the intervals indicated. Service information and supporting specifications are provided in this owner's guide.
Any adverse condition should be brought to the attention of your dealer or qualified service technician as soon as possible for the proper service advice. The owner maintenance service checks are generally not covered by warranties so you may be charged for labor, parts or fluids used.
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- Class of 1958 James Little
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Marijuana Dispensary Owners Need to Step Up
- November 5, 2016
- Jeff
- No comments
Today I was at Old City Hall, yet again scanning the incredibly long list of accused persons in the Project Claudia raids from May 26. It's hard to believe but it's been almost half a year since the initial sweep of Marijuana Dispensaries in Toronto, and the legal fall-out continues for many accused persons who are still before the courts, still trying to sort out their lives. Officially, only the May 26 arrests are truly Project Claudia. But unofficially, the name has also been applied to the many raids that have occurred since, and which continue to this day. I was in bail court just two days ago when another clinic was raided. It's still happening.
I don't know how many people are facing charges now, from arrests that occurred at their workplaces. It's surely in the hundreds. Some are lifelong cannabis activists. Some are making good money at what they do, because they are established in the community and know how to bring in the business. Many are ordinary people, working in a shop for whatever hourly wage they are being paid. They may have believed it was legal when they took the job. They may have been told it was legal when they took the job. Many don't have criminal records and have no experience in the criminal justice system. They don't know what the hell is going on right now. And somewhere behind them, the owners of these dispensaries are watching this happen, and deciding what to do about it. Not all of them are stepping up, and I'm bloody sick of it.
I'm a front line criminal defence lawyer just trying to do my job properly. I support legalization of both medical and recreational cannabis. Medical cannabis is currently "legal" but inaccessible to far too many patients. That's a huge constitutional problem and it needs to be fixed. I applaud the lawyers working on that. Recreational cannabis is not currently legal, no matter what anyone believes, and I frankly can't see any reasonable constitutional argument that could turn a recreational drug into a protected right. Legalization can't come fast enough. I wish our government would get its collective ass in gear and get it done. But right now it isn't legal. Anyone who tells you otherwise is just dreaming.
So, what's going on with all of these dispensaries? A combination of two things. First, many are run in part or in whole to help provide medicinal cannabis to patients who need it and who can't get it through any other safe, affordable, practical source. It is medication, for many people, and they have a right to access it. I'm confident in that. It isn't clear they have a right to access it in storefront dispensaries, but there's a solid argument to be made, at least, that they should. Second, many of these same dispensaries are now selling to any adult, based on their belief that everyone does or should have the right to access cannabis on any basis. They are essentially operating on the premise that it's already legal. And again, let me stress, outside of medical purposes it simply is not.
Here's where things get dicey, and where activism meets commerce. Everyone knows that legal cannabis is going to be big business, and everyone wants a piece of it. Even Shoppers Drug Mart is getting into the mix. And there is a very real commercial land rush taking place here. Is the market going to be dominated by big, commercial players? Will there be a monopoly on distribution similar to the LCBO? What about social venues such as vape lounges – which are to cannabis what bars are to alcohol? One thing is certain, there's a lot of money to be made and some people are going to get rich.
Like many people, I support local businesses and entrepreneurs. I don't want to see the Starbucks of cannabis come to dominate the marketplace. I would far rather see a market filled with a lot of small players – preferably the activists and the community leaders who have been fighting this fight, and paying the price, for a lot of years. But these small players are a mixed bag. I'm not here to name names, but some are far better organized than others. Some are capable of running a business and some are really just in over their heads from a commercial perspective. Coming in from the shadows isn't easy. Suddenly you're dealing with building codes, by-laws, taxes, HR issues, leases, and a myriad of other problems they've never had to deal with before. It's actually very complicated to legally sell a fresh made brownie in Toronto, or to run a holistic medical clinic providing natural treatments. It certainly doesn't get less complicated when you're selling a brownie laced with cannabis, or providing medical marijuana.
I am sure of one thing, however. These dispensaries are making money. No matter how well or how badly they may be run, it's just about impossible to open a shop selling cannabis and not make money. That's exactly why so many people are doing it right now. I don't presume to know exactly how much money or where it's all going. But I know how much the police are seizing when they execute a raid, and I know that any halfway intelligent operation is emptying its cash registers daily, if not more often. The owners are making money. And not all of them are showing up when their employees are facing charges.
People sometimes think that everyone who can't pay for a lawyer qualifies for legal aid. It isn't true. You need to basically be completely broke to qualify for legal aid, and you need to be facing a risk of jail. In these charges, the Crown is generally not seeking jail. That's a good thing – that the Crown is being reasonable. They don't really want to nail the front line employees anyway. But those are the people facing criminal charges and even if they don't go to jail there can still be serious consequences. Some are being released on arrest, others are being held for bail. Many, as I've said, have no criminal records at all and any conviction could have long-term consequences in their lives. They need and deserve representation. And many of them – many of them – just aren't getting it. And I am sick and fucking tired of it.
Many owners are behaving responsibly. They have lawyers who they pay to help their workers and they are stepping up. I've worked for them on several cases already and I'm always willing to do more on short notice, as these raids appear likely to continue. Some owners just aren't taking responsibility. Their workers are left standing there in court wondering what the hell is happening. They've lost their jobs, they were often struggling with finances and other issues in the first place, and they can't even get legal aid to pay for some kind of help. Let me repeat. They can't get legal aid. None of them.
I know people think lawyers are expensive. I know you don't want to hear from lawyers who say "pay me and I'll help you." So let me repeat. I'm a front line lawyer. I take legal aid rates all the time. I would gladly represent these clients for what legal aid pays – and it isn't that much. But that isn't possible, and the owners of these dispensaries aren't even stepping up to that amount. The amount of money coming out of their tills on a daily basis would be enough to hire competent counsel to defend their workers. And they aren't doing it. Not all of them, anyway.
You'll notice I haven't named a single name in this post. I don't intend to. The politics of the 420 community aren't my business. But someone needs to name and shame the owners who aren't stepping up for their workers. And the owners who are stepping up deserve credit, also. The word needs to get out there. Sometimes people ask me if they can go back to work at dispensaries. I tell them they risk being arrested and it isn't currently legal in any clear way, but of course it's their choice to make. I also tell them, however, to only work for a legitimate shop with the guarantee of legal representation if and likely when they do get arrested. Why would anyone work without that?
It isn't my place to tell the cannabis community what to do or how to think. I'm an ally and a supporter. Heck, I was a delegate to the Liberal convention in Ottawa, in 2012, when we first adopted the platform to legalize. It's good policy and I support it. But I'm not a 420 activist. I'm just a criminal defence lawyer who wants to do my job. The cannabis community has got to hold the owners of these shops accountable. They are entrepreneurs and business people in addition to being activists. Let's not fool ourselves. They aren't just trying to get everyone their medicine and their recreational pot – they are also making a lot of money. And none of them should get away with taking the cash and leaving their employees holding the empty bag.