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Taking a steady, regular and progressive approach to your preparation will ensure that you can complete the Ring of Kerry Charity Cycle.
Everybody is at a different level of fitness and has different lifestyles and expectations, so it is difficult to give a week-by-week training plan that would suit everybody. Therefore, you can adapt these basic monthly guidelines to suit your particular circumstances.
The two key principles to keep in mind at all times are:
1. Consistency - ride your bike as much as possible
2. Progression - begin at a level comfortable for you and progress slowly but steadily.
If you don't have a good fitness base:
- This month is all about building basic fitness -slow, steady miles at a pace which is comfortable enough to conduct a conversation
- Try to ride as often as you can, however short - at least four times per week would be ideal
- If you have to take a break for any reason don't let it discourage you - just get back into your routine as quickly as possible
- Don't let a bit of rain put you off - you might enjoy it
- Practice using gears regularly and keeping your cadence high
- Focus on spending time on the saddle rather than on average speed
- Aim for one long ride per week, beginning at an hour and aim to complete 25 miles (40K) in one ride by the end of the month
- Get your saddle height checked and learn the feel of correct air pressure in your tyres
- If you are going for weight-loss, eat well and sparingly and aim for a 4lb. (1.8Kg) loss for the month
- Expect mild aches and discomforts as the body adapts but distinguish these from niggling or developing injuries which should be checked
- If you are feeling particularly tired for any session, still try to motivate yourself to get out but go at a very slow pace - think of it as going for an easy walk on your bike - and you will still get benefit from this
- See our General Guidelines for further advice
If you are starting with a good base of fitness but are not so used to cycling:
- Do all of the above for the first two weeks
- On the third week include a harder session with some intensity as described under the Fitness heading
- Extend you long ride to a distance you are capable of
- See our General Guidelines for further advice
You will have some basic fitness developed if you were riding in April and May is a good month to consolidate and develop this: the weather is better, the evenings are longer and it is a lovely time of the year to be out on your bike.
If you didn't get started last month there is still time to get ready – check back in the April advice please.
Whatever your level of fitness or experience, the three most important points to keep in mind for the month of May are:
- Consistency: ride at least three times per week, every week, and four is even better.
- Progression: gradually extend you mileage each week (or increase your pace if you are short of time) and increase the number of sessions if possible and if you are not feeling too tired.
- Extend one long ride per week especially: if you are a beginner aim for at least 60K (37 miles) by the end of the month, or longer if you are more fit or experienced.
We have suggested that the Ring of Kerry challenge may seem less daunting if you think of it as four separate segments or chunks of approximately 40K (25 miles) each with breaks in between.
In April we suggested 40K (25 miles) as your target and for May you could set 80K (50 miles) as your target long ride. This might be easiest done at a sportive, charity or club cycle, or with a group of friends. However, don't be put off if this isn't feasible for any reason.
Optional Intensity
If you want to further boost your fitness, and especially if you are short on time, a little added intensity will make a difference (but it is not essential to complete the Ring of Kerry).
Unless you are quite fit it is advisable not to do more than two hard sessions per week – more will break down the body rather than strengthen it. Once per week is enough If you are relatively new to this level of training and it is best to avoid it unless you have completed a number of weeks of basic, slow endurance training. Remember, time spent on the bike is key for endurance and you will still be able to complete The Ring without this type of training.
There are a number of ways to include intensity:
- If you are a beginner do one session a week which brings you out of your comfort zone to a level that makes conversation difficult – see the section on 'Fitness' in our General Guidelines on Preparation.
- If you have a good level of fitness try one 'tempo' session a week (moderate-hard but sustainable, with conversation difficult) of between 20 and 40 minutes.
- As an alternative, or in addition if you are fit, you could do one session of very hard efforts of between 2 and 5 minutes (10-12 minutes in total). Allow at least 5 minutes of recovery at an easy pace in between.
- If you ride with a group that includes people of a higher standard you may get adequate intensity during those rides.
- Always take a day off after hard sessions or go for a very easy spin of less than an hour – treat the level effort the same as going for a walk.
If you have been able to ride consistency and have been progressively increasing your mileage or time, it is very important that you take a recovery week during the last week of May, especially if you are feeling tired or finding it difficult to stay motivated.
Remember, fitness occurs as the body responds to the effort and, if you have been progressively increasing that effort, the body needs recovery time to fully adapt to the extra load. This is when fitness occurs.
It will also help to refresh yourself mentally and get you ready for the final block of preparation in June.
If you need a recovery week a general guideline is to cut back on your volume between 50-75%. The exception is your weekly long ride – don't cut back on this but keep your effort low. The end of a recovery period is a good time to do this extra-long spin as you will be feeling fresh.
Good quality food and good sleep will aid your recovery.
Additional Guidelines
In addition to these and the general tips given for April, the following may be helpful:
- Time on the bike is more important than speed – reduce your speed if necessary in order to get in the distance, especially on your long rides
- Consider entering a sportive or charity cycle this month – it will make the long miles seem easier and will be good experience
- If you are aiming for weight-loss, continue to eat well and don't be tempted to eat extra as a 'reward' for your training!
- If convenient do some long climbs with an easy gradient to practice your pacing (steady, at a high cadence using your gears)
- As your training load increases, the quality of your food (not volume) and sleep become more important
- Continue to practice the pacing, nutrition and hydration guidelines during your weekly long cycle.
Riding consistently through June and further building your distance will set you up for an enjoyable Ring of Kerry. Also, focus on the other suggestions we have made on pacing, nutrition, equipment, and skill (see our General Guidelines).
Your experience up to now is the best guide to the level of training you can sustain and try to gradually extend yourself further each week for the first three weeks of the month.
Along with the normal consistency and progression which we have stressed, you can set yourself a key target distance for June.
We have suggested mentally dividing the Ring of Kerry into four approximate segments and completing the distance of the first three this month will help ensure that you can complete the event.
Therefore, set yourself the target of approximately 120K (75 miles) in one ride, taking breaks if necessary. Practice your pacing and your nutrition during this ride. As in May, this may be easier at an organized event or with a group of a similar fitness level.
However, this in itself is a big challenge for some and not being able to do it for any reason shouldn't rule out your attempt at the charity cycle.
Taper Week
It is very important that you take things easy during the final week and let your body recover from the weeks of effort to make sure that you are fresh on the day.
You want to be in the best 'form' for the Ring of Kerry, and form is a balance between fitness and freshness.
You will add very little to your fitness during the last week by 'cramming' further training, but you could ruin your freshness from making the body tired.
Therefore, back off quite a bit in the final week – approximately half your weekly effort for June – and get plenty of good food and sleep. Spend the 'spare' time checking your equipment and planning for the event.
The Evening Before
Enjoy a good meal the evening before but there is no need to overdo it – you will be having another good meal in the morning.
Alcohol will have a dehydrating effect and you can't fully compensate for this before the ride by drinking extra water.
That Morning
A breakfast of mainly 'low glycaemic' carbohydrates (slow burning, such as porridge) is ideal and it's best to avoid a high proportion of fats as these are slower to be processed by the body.
And Finally
The main thing is to keep a sense of perspective, enjoyment and fun. The Ring of Kerry Charity Cycle is mainly about supporting deserving charities, setting a personal challenge and having a memorable day on the road.
No matter how your preparation has gone there will be a big army of volunteers and thousands of supportive cyclists to make sure you complete your challenge and finish with a smile on your face and with a great sense of satisfaction.
Enjoy the day!


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Need a magazine article for a homework assignment?
With your library card, you can find articles at home.
Check out a new favorite holiday story at the library.
November is National Adoption Month. Enjoy stories about children who are adopted as well as guides and memoirs about adoption.
Check out our online resources for streaming media!
So many great books to be thankful for! Check some out at the library today.
That's the motto of internationally known maverick composer and former San Jose State University music instructor Lou Harrison. The world is celebrating his centennial this year.
See the 2018 Silicon Valley Reads selections. Find out more about bilingual storytimes, VetNow and coding classes. Learn why Supervisor Joe Simitian will be visiting our libraries. All this and more in our library newsletter.
Check out the CultureGrams database for kids to learn about daily life in other parts of the world.

subset: commoncrawl


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Through PAMSA's Process Research Unit, post-graduate BSc chemical engineering students are able to take their studies to a Masters and PhD level thanks to bursaries and positions offered by our member companies. M.Eng. and PhD students are enrolled at the universities of Pretoria, Stellenbosch, KZN, Wits and North West.
Successful candidates gain advanced skills during their post-graduate training in specialist fields such as wood science, chemical analysis, material and energy balances, process modelling, material flow analysis and separation techniques.
2018/2019 Bursary Applications
Applications from post-graduate chemical engineering students are NOW CLOSED.
About the Process Research Unit
PAMSA's Process Research Unit was formed to expand a regional research initiative and promote the sustainability of the local pulp, paper and packaging industry. Apart from its bursary programme, the unit coordinates research for the development of processes to efficiently utilise biomass feedstock (trees) for conversion to bio-products (paper and chemicals) and energy with minimal environmental impact. It also seeks to develop academic/research centres of excellence, both locally and abroad and engages in collaborative partnerships with industry and government agencies.
Short courses
PAMSA also offers a number of short courses on request which can be tailor-made for specific mill requirements.
- Resource efficiency and cleaner production
- Cleaner production focusing on energy
- Hands-on pulp and papermaking
- Wet end chemistry
- Refining basics
- High yield pulping
- Water and effluent treatment


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The Wright Team, Real Estate Agents
The Wright Team, Real Estate Agents
If you're looking to buy or sell a home in Ottawa, The Wright Team is the obvious choice.ottawahomes.ca/
This team of elite real estate agents understands that buying or selling a home is about you, and your family and provides the quality service that you deserve. Call The Wright Team now at (613) 692-0606 or visit the office at 1096 Bridge Street, Ottawa, ON, K4M 1J2. This Royal LePage team has you covered. With the real estate agents combined experience and education, your real estate experience is sure to be exciting and less stressful than you could have ever imagined. Whether you're looking for Ottawa homes for sale, or putting your house up on the market, give The Wright Team a call today at (613) 692-0606.
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Make Us Your Homepage
A celebration of life service for 64 year old William C. Boslet will be held on May 5, 2012 at 1:00 p.m. at the Seymour Funeral Home in Potsdam. Mr. Boslet died at his home on Tuesday, March 13, 2012. Friends who wish may make donations in his... Read More >>
Mr. James S. "Jay" Smith, 42, of 3582 County Route 14, tragically passed away Sunday morning, April 29, 2012.
Jay was born April 15, 1970 in Potsdam, the son of Nancy I. White Smith and the late Stanley E. Smith. He graduated in 1988 from Potsdam... Read More >>
Gregory Lawrence Martin, 52, passed away Saturday, April 28, 2012 at his home under the care of his family, friends, and Hospice of St. Lawrence Valley.
Gregory was born November 20, 1959 in Alexandria Bay, the son of Larry E. and Ruth N. Gay Martin... Read More >>
Thérèse Irène Agathe LePage O'Connor died April 29, 2012, in Macon, Georgia, after a short illness. She was 94 years old, born on April 8, 1918, in Alfred, Ontario, Canada, to Elzire (née Charbonneau) and Joseph LePage. Her ancestors on the LePage... Read More >>
Francis Hall, 71, of Canton, passed away Friday morning April 27th, 2012. He was surrounded by the family he dearly loved, in the home he had built with his own hands.
A memorial service will be held Saturday, May 5th at St. Mary's Church in Canton... Read More >>
Margaret (Van Kennen) Correa, known to those close to her as "Peggy", died April 24, 2012, peacefully in her sleep from complications related to COPD. She was 70 years old and only 2 weeks shy of her 71st birthday.
Her husband Jack predeceased her... Read More >>
Funeral services for James "Francis" Dean, 77, of County Rte 24, will be held on Tuesday, May 1, 2012 at 10:00 a.m. at the Lawrence Funeral Home, Canton with Pastor Donna Doig officiating. Burial will follow in Beech Plains Cemetery. Calling hours... Read More >>
Stella R. Tamblin, 88, of Richville, died, April 28, 2012, at her home, surrounded by her daughters, Allen-Denesha Funeral Home, DeKalb Junction entrusted with arrangements. Calling hours will be Thursday, May 10th , 1 – 3 p.m., at the United Church... Read More >>
Cynthia Marie McFerran, 76, of Edwards passed away on Sunday, April 29, 2012 at her home under the loving care of her family and Hospice of St. Lawrence Valley.
Calling hours will be on Wednesday, May 2, 2012 from 2 - 4 and 7 - 9 p.m. at French... Read More >>
Graveside services for 39 year old Mary Jane Jones LaMay, will be held Wednesday at 10 am at Calvary Cemetery in Massena with Rev. Andrew Amyot presiding. Mrs. LaMay passed away on January 5, 2012. The Buck Funeral Home in Norfolk is serving the... Read More >>
Arrangements for 89-year-old Barbara J. Myers, 14 West Main Street, Norfolk, are incomplete at this time with the Buck Funeral Home in Norfolk. Mrs. Myers passed away at her home. The Buck Funeral Home in Norfolk is serving the family and friends... Read More >>
James "Frances" Dean, 77, of County Rte 24, died Saturday, April 28, 2012 at his home while under the care of his family.
Calling hours will be Monday, April 30th from 2-4 and 6-8 PM at the Lawrence Funeral Home, Canton. Further arrangements are... Read More >>


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Truth be told, nothing sells a brand faster than Experiential Marketing.
Picture this: it's 3:00 pm on a Saturday evening.
A hall full of people applauds as their eyes stay glued to the stage. There is anticipation in the air. The excitement is palpable. Adding the needed colour and glamour all across the hall is the Brand behind the excitement. The people lose their voices as "he" steps on the stage. They influence, persuade, tweet, retweet and share their experience over social media, while others try to make their way to the venue even as your brand meets them at every point. They can't wait to hear the sound of "The internationally renowned spoken word artiste," on the shores on Nigeria for the first time. They can't wait for YOUR BRAND, to make this happen.
Here's introducing i2X Media Company Limited, the organizers of WORD UP -the biggest Spoken Word Poetry Event in Nigeria.
Since 2010, we have grown Performance Poetry and Spoken Word, working tirelessly to promote the art in West Africa and position it as a genre of entertainment, a tool to increase literacy level, and a means of communication among people across the globe.
This quarter we have plans to bring in an international poet from the United States of America to influence our poets here and further grow the industry. Your love for art and the entertainment industry has led our proposal right to you.
The question is why not? Every quarter, poets gather from across the globe at our quarterly organized show – WORD UP.
WORD UP (SPOKEN WORD POETRY AND SOUL MUSIC EVENT): is a show that features the best Spoken Word Poets in Nigeria all on one stage. It is a major platform for poets across the globe. Previous editions saw poets from the Namibia, England and America grace the stage. We also feature celebrities who come on stage to read, recite and/or perform poems.
We have held three editions of WORD UP in UNILAG, Akoka, Lagos supported by Charvet Nig. Ltd (major marketer of Power Horse energy drink and Kiss Mix), First Bank of Nigeria Plc, Airtel and Smooth FM.
We request that you partner with us through sponsorship to showcase your products and services and portray your brand as one with a passion for development of the art and the average individual.
We understand that businesses exist for profit and the current economic situation requires granular analysis of your marketing spend. This is why working with our partners, we have designed special sponsorship plans to drive your marketing efforts.
Sponsorship of WORD UP provides you the under listed which can be further explained at our initial meeting.
· Brand exposure on our various platforms
· Branding Opportunity across all touch points
· Advert placements in our DVDS sold across the country
· Media exposure
· Product/ Services Experience and Sampling
· Speaking Opportunity
· Database Acquisition and so much more.
Don't take our words for it, please visit http://wordup411.blogspot.com/
, where
pictures, videos and information about our events and the organization can be
accessed. While you are at it please feel free to check out our YOUTUBE
channel, http://www.youtube. com/user/olulu4eva?feature= mhee,
for video clips of some of our events.
Platinum, Diamond, Gold, and Silver.
We are open to further discussions should you decide to pick any of these options.
The next edition of our event, WORD UP Volume 4 (Spoken Word Poetry and Soul Music Event) is on May 18, 2013 and will hold quarterly thereafter.
Performance Poetry and Spoken Word Event is the next tidal wave that will sweep through Africa. The good part is it captures all genres of people, and creates job opportunities for our youths.
Do not miss the opportunity to ride on the waves.
We can't wait to read from you so we can work together and achieve our objectives.
Kind regards.
Olumide Holloway


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Okay, so this week I want you guys to blog. If you could ask for five things, large or small, what would be on your list? Not the world peace, end to hunger type things, I mean gifts your loved ones could actually buy or make for you.
They can be completely random or your heart's desire. You share yours this week. Next week, I'll share mine. Ready? Go!


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Girl Scouts have an opportunity to learn about career opportunities in science, technology and math at an "Exploring the Night Sky" event from 4 to 9 p.m. Saturday at the Bishop Museum.
Speakers will include:
» Kaiulani Murphy, a navigator with the Polynesian Voyaging Society, who will describe what it takes to become a navigator.
» Vicky Hamilton, planetary geologist, who will take the Scouts on an exploratory tour of Mars, explaining how Hawaiian volcanoes compare to Martian planetary surfaces.
» Lisa Kewley, an astronomer, will show what happens when galaxies collide.
» Nainoa Thompson, master navigator, will take the Scouts on a "star studded" journey to Tahiti, explaining the art and science of traditional Polynesian voyaging through star identification and patterns.
» Paul Coleman, an astronomer, will discuss modern astronomy in Hawaii and legends and Hawaiian traditions concerning astronomy. He also will discuss the end of the universe.
Scouts will be able to use solar scopes and sunspotters to look at the sun, and telescopes will be set up on the museum's lawn by the Hawaiian Astronomical Society and Institute for Astronomy for a close view of the night sky. They will also be able to visit the Science Adventure Center and Grossology exhibit.
Early registration with Girls Scouts of Hawaii is recommended because of limited space. For more information, call 595-8400 or visit www.girlscouts-hawaii.org.


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Cap 28, 00 / Dec 29, 16 07:13 UTC
Initial Housing for Asgardians ¶
As we Asgardians initially immigrate into space, onto the station where we will - hopefully - live out the rest of our lives, I have one question...
Where will we live, at first?
Ideally, of course, as the years pass, private housing that ranges from basic to luxurious would become available, but, initially, I imagine that there might need to be some sort of communal and/or state-provided residences. Maybe dorms or bunks or something similar, for us to live and sleep in until Asgardia gets off the ground and private ownership of residences becomes feasible.
Are there any other opinions on this matter.


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The Queen of the Mountain cycling shorts have been designed and made purely with the female body shape in mind. They look good, feel good, but most importantly, they perform superbly. And there's so much more...
Queen of the Mountains wanted to create a pair of shorts that would be comfortable, perform well and look superb - and they've done it! Made from Lycra Power, a high intensity fabric that allows an outstanding freedom of movement whilst on the bike AND reduces muscle vibrations which cause unwanted muscle fatigue! A genius pair of shorts.
All of this combined with the latest women's Cytech pad, makes them extremely comfortable, figure hugging and supportive for any ride, be that long or short.
Queen of the Mountains have cleverly created a pair of cycling shorts with a yoga band at the front and higher back to help eliminate the wretched, uncomfortable 'digging in' feeling. Climb your mountain, sweep through the valley or sip your café coffee feeling great and much less 'youch'.
They boast plenty of technical prowess, with UV 50+ protection, 4+ hours of riding, soft leg grippers, flat lock stitching and no itchy labels. A definate all-rounder for the pack.
These beauties will perform like a pro and look down-right gorgeous. Match up with a Queen of the Mountains Race or Classic Jersey for a smooth, fully coordinated look.
Ideal for:
- All year round cycling.
- 4+ hours of riding.
- Comfort on the bike for short and long rides.
Size Guide
Queen of the Mountains Cycling Shorts are designed to be snug and to hug the contours of your body, so technically they perform. See the guide below for sizing.
Tech Spec
- Made of Lycra Power - reduces muscle vibration that causes muscle fatigue.
- Anti-abrasive and anti-pilling fabric.
- Industry leading Cytech pad - suitable for 4+ hours riding.
- Flat lock stitching - seams won't rub against skin.
- Wide yoa-band at the front - avoid digging into the waist whilst in the riding position.
- Soft leg grippers.
- Medium length.
- UV protection 50+.
- No scratchy labels.
- Charcoal with coral band.
- Designed in London, made in Italy.
Ideal for:
- All year round cycling.
- 4+ hours riding.
- Comfort on the bike for short and long rides.
Who's Behind It?
Dreamed in the mountains, designed in London, created in Italy.
The dream started whilst on a 1000km charity ride from Geneva to Cannes over the French Alps. Alicia Bamford, a keen cyclist, triathlete and fond Iron Man participant (5 times completed), founder of Queen of the Mountains, envisaged a brand where women would be inspired and empowered to ride. With a passion for cycling, in particular the mountains, Alicia created Queen of the Mountains.
Alicia wanted more women to be able to experience that sense of achievement and freedom you can get from the bike. At the beginning of 2015 Alicia and Katy (a fellow cyclist and Creative designer) set their minds to launching a women's brand that did just that.
Queen of the Mountains want to support young girls and women, coming into the sport later in life, continue cycling and promote confidence and and inspiration to ride. They're doing a brilliant job so far, producing high quality cycling clothing for women, running sponsorship programmes and local training rides too - making opportunities happen, so more and more women can get together and ride, feeling free, confident and beautiful.
We were massively wowed by the results and fully support Queen of the Mountains to fulfil their dream for many years to come...
"The physical and mental challenge of these magnificent climbs, the sense of achievement you feel as you can finally see the summit is at the heart of our brand" Alicia Bamford.
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1 customer reviews
Beautiful ShortsReview by Anna
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Making A Difference In The Nation's Capital Through Prayer And Action
Dec 4, 2018
As our Countdown to the Live Nativity continues, we are now only 9 days from that remarkable moment when the Holy Family, along with shepherds, Wise Men, and sheep, a donkey, and a camel will reenact the nativity scene right in front of the United States Supreme Court. It is an amazing moment.
It is particularly interesting that shepherds are included -- just as they were included in the herald of the birth of Christ. On that night Jesus was born, angels exploded into the night sky to announce to a group of shepherds not only the birth of the Christ Child, but the meaning behind it.
"Now there were in the same country shepherds living out in the fields, keeping watch over their flock by night. And behold, an angel of the Lord stood before them, and the glory of the Lord shone around them, and they were greatly afraid. Then the angel said to them, "Do not be afraid, for behold, I bring you good tidings of great joy which will be to all people. For there is born to you this day in the city of David a Savior, who is Christ the Lord." (Luke 2:8-11)
Amazing! Why? Because shepherds were the dregs of society. They were outcasts, despised by the respectable elements of society. In fact, the integrity of shepherds was so suspect, they were not even allowed to be witnesses in a court of law. And yet, it was to these outcasts, these rough amateurs, that God chose to reveal His purposes in the Incarnation, and to serve as His first ambassadors of the Gospel.
God often uses the most unexpected people to advance His message of salvation. People like John Chau, the young man who gave his life to bring the Gospel to the unreached people of Sentinel Island in India.
And God uses this small band of costumed characters in the Live Nativity to remind those in the hallways of power In our nation's capital that they too can know the good tidings and great joy of salvation through Jesus Christ!
And you are a strategic part of this important Gospel outreach!
Your prayers, encouragement and GENEROUS FINANCIAL SUPPORT make all of this possible. Without you, we COULD NOT stage this LIVE NATIVITY "CHRISTmas" celebration on Capitol Hill.
The Live Nativity is an important, dramatic, meaningful, and powerful witness of the Gospel. If you agree, can we count on you to stand with us both in your prayers and in your giving?
Please consider a gift of $25, $50, $100, or even $500 or more. Your generosity will help us ensure Americans across the nation are able to exercise their God-given, constitutionally protected First Amendment right to publicly exercise their religious beliefs.
TO MAKE YOUR TAX-DEDUCTIBLE GIFT RIGHT NOW, please click here.
Thank you for bringing CHRIST to Christmas on Capitol Hill!
Peggy Nienaber, Vice President, Faith & Liberty


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I always wondered why my parents always told me when I was young, "Before you sleep say ayat-ul-kursi." Now I know why. (Ayat-ul-kursi is ayah 255 of al-Baqarah [Chapter 2 which is called The Cow])
Narrated Abu Huraira: Allah's Apostle deputed me to keep Sadaqat (al-Fitr) of Ramadan. A comer came and started taking handfuls of the foodstuff (of the Sadaqa) (stealthily). I took hold of him and said, "By Allah, I will take you to Allah's Apostle ." He said, "I am needy and have many dependents, and I am in great need." I released him, and in the morning Allah's Apostle asked me, "What did your prisoner do yesterday?" I said, "O Allah's Apostle! The person complained of being needy and of having many dependents, so, I pitied him and let him go." Allah's Apostle said, "Indeed, he told you a lie and he will be coming again." I believed that he would show up again as Allah's Apostle had told me that he would return. So, I waited for him watchfully. When he (showed up and) started stealing handfuls of foodstuff, I caught hold of him again and said, "I will definitely take you to Allah's Apostle. He said, "Leave me, for I am very needy and have many dependents. I promise I will not come back again." I pitied him and let him go. In the morning Allah's Apostle asked me, "What did your prisoner do." I replied, "O Allah's Apostle! He complained of his great need and of too many dependents, so I took pity on him and set him free." Allah's Apostle said, "Verily, he told you a lie and he will return." I waited for him attentively for the third time, and when he (came and) started stealing handfuls of the foodstuff, I caught hold of him and said, "I will surely take you to Allah's Apostle as it is the third time you promise not to return, yet you break your promise and come." He said, "(Forgive me and) I will teach you some words with which Allah will benefit you." I asked, "What are they?" He replied, "Whenever you go to bed, recite "Ayat-al-Kursi"– 'Allahu la ilaha illa huwa-l-Haiy-ul Qaiyum' till you finish the whole verse. (If you do so), Allah will appoint a guard for you who will stay with you and no satan will come near you till morning. " So, I released him. In the morning, Allah's Apostle asked, "What did your prisoner do yesterday?" I replied, "He claimed that he would teach me some words by which Allah will benefit me, so I let him go." Allah's Apostle asked, "What are they?" I replied, "He said to me, 'Whenever you go to bed, recite Ayat-al-Kursi from the beginning to the end —- Allahu la ilaha illa huwa-lHaiy-ul-Qaiyum—-.' He further said to me, '(If you do so), Allah will appoint a guard for you who will stay with you, and no satan will come near you till morning.' (Abu Huraira or another sub-narrator) added that they (the companions) were very keen to do good deeds. The Prophet said, "He really spoke the truth, although he is an absolute liar. Do you know whom you were talking to, these three nights, O Abu Huraira?" Abu Huraira said, "No." He said, "It was Satan." ( Sahih Bukhari – Book #38, Hadith #505t)
May Allah protect us from the Shaytan. Ameen!
God – There is nothing worthy of worship except Him. the Ever Living, The Eternal One Who sustains and protects all that exists. Neither slumber, nor sleep overtake Him. To Him belongs whatever is in the heavens and whatever is on earth. Who is he that can intercede with Him except with His Permission? He knows what happens to them (His creatures) in this world, and what will happen to them in the Hereafter . And they will never compass anything of His Knowledge except that which He wills. His Throne extends over the heavens and the earth, and He feels no fatigue in guarding and preserving them. And He is the Most High, the Most Great.


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By averaging this data over the season I believe we get a better picture than simply looking at goals per game or even shots per game, as the above data is effectively opponent adjusted. At this point in the year, with just four or five home/away fixtures played there's a risk of small sample size fluctuations, but nevertheless I believe it's fairly useful in identifying teams who are consistently out shining the league average and thus should be in line for new or continued success in the future.
To see what this looks like, I thought I'd paste all the data to date below and then pick out a couple of teams to highlight:
Though each number has some use in predicting future performance, I'm generally going to focus on SiB as they obviously correlate best to goals scored and are a generally sound indication of a team creating quality chances rather than just taking pot shots.
- The team that jumped out the most for me was Everton. They have been simply dominant both home and away at generating SiB, leading the league in both instances. Their conversion rate of SiB to goals is a moderate 12% which suggests there could be an element of some of these chances being headers from long balls (right Gerrard?) which tend to not be converted as well as shooting opportunities, but even so, these are impressive numbers for a side whose fantasy players come in the ~7.0m bracket and they underscore just how valuable that group should continue to be.
- On the negative side at home, two surprising sides to note are Arsenal and Chelsea who have both only managed to perform to the league average through their four/five home games. Both still rank in the top handful of teams so there's nothing to worry about per se, though the fact they've had limited success against apparently weaker sides may suggest that some regression might befall them when tougher teams visit the Emirates and Stamford Bridge. Indeed, the three best teams they've collectively faced this year have all held them below league average SiB by a significant amount (Arsenal: Chelsea -14%; Chelsea: Newcastle -49%, Man Utd -11%).
- Sunderland have simply been brutal in the shot department, which won't come as a surprise to anyone who has been looking at Steve Fletcher's fortunes in any detail. The fact that he was able to convert his first handful of shots into goals really masked this team's poor attacking play and it's no surprise that goals have been hard to come by of late. On a bright note, they did manage to register 21 total shots with nine inside the box against Newcastle in GW8, but until that level of production can be met on a regular basis, the 10% of managers who own Fletcher should be concerned (even though his conversion rate of shots on target to goals of 45% isn't crazy the fact that he's hit the target with 79% of his shots is. Over the first seven games he's taken 14 total shots, which based on his historical SoT% would give him just four SoT which would translate to two goals if you're feeling bullish, rather than the five he registered so far).
- If you have a defender facing Southampton at home you'll likely be licking your lips and banking the clean sheet now, but the data would suggest we ease up a little on that excitement. Southampton have impressed in almost every attacking metric we have but their shot totals away from home are particularly notable. Only five teams (MCI, EVE, ARS, LIV, MUN) have fared better on their travels versus league average with the Saints managing to score in every road trip so far (despite playing at ARS, MCI, EVE and MHU). The question is whether or not Southampton have the quality to really expose the easier sides they will face in the coming weeks, but at least so far, the data likes them to not only get by offensively, but excel.
- Man City's data looks a bit odd as they have simply crushed teams away from home (59% above average) while their home totals are useful yet don't standout (16%). Note, however, that they are still second in the league in SiB at home, it's just they've done so against weaker opponents and thus don't get credit for 'overachieving'. In City's particular case this might not be a cause for concern as there's an argument that they will simply create enough chances against anyone to win the game, whether that means exceeding expectations with 13 SiB at Fulham, or just doing enough to get by Swansea with just seven SiB. This one is worth monitoring as City welcome TOT, EVE and MUN in three of the next four home games, so we will be able to see if they've truly taken a step back offensively, or were merely just toying with their opponents and doing enough to simply win the game (as asset which is often attributed to be the mark of 'Championship' team).
So that's a little taste of the kind of analysis we can get from this data. I don't plan to post it every week but it's contents will be included in all the posts along with, of course, the team and player forecast models.


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One of the many challenges with moving to a new house is figuring out how to fit furniture in ways that are functional and aesthetically pleasing! It's sort of like Tetris. But with prettier colors and shapes.
We have a large, yet weirdly shaped open living room. Our only furniture configuration leaves an empty corner in which I've placed a wingback chair that had no other place. I wanted a functional, yet pretty spot to use as a mini home office/homework spot. For cheap. BUT. I want it be pretty. I want, I want, I want, I want.. Yikes! Now we come to the WHOLE point of this post:
I found matching two-drawer file cabinets at Goodwill for $6 each! The price range for brand new file cabinets is $40-$150. That alone was a deal! (Goodwill can be overpriced at times, but sometimes you get 'lucky'!)
I bought six 1x4's (6 feet in length) from Lowe's and cut them 5 feet in length. After lightly sanding down them edges and corners, I stained the planks with Minwax stain. I used two light coats of the Classic Gray color, and then one light coat of the Honey color. The mixture of the two stains gives an aged look instead of just stained. Had I not spilled about 7/8ths of the Honey colored stain, this project literally would used a teeny tiny bit of stain! I COULD have sealed them with wax or polyurethane, but we will NOT be using this surface for food so I left off that step!
Next, I already had 8x1-1/4" screws and 1x1-1/2" wood pieces that are cut in 17 inch lengths. I pre-drilled the holes so the 1x1-1/2" wood wouldn't split and attached the connector pieces to the 1x4's. I attached the connector pieces 24-3/4" apart. I didn't use 1x1/2" cut to the actual depth of the table because I didn't want to be able to see the connector pieces poking out when you look at the front of the desk.
I did NOT attach the table to the file cabinets. I placed the table portion on top of the cabinets with the connector pieces lying on the inside of the side of the cabinet. For now, this works perfectly! The table is heavy enough that it doesn't shift or shake.
And there you have my easy, frugal solution to an empty corner of my living room! My oldest is excited to have a special desk to use for homework, and I'm happy to have another surface and area to decorate!
Here's the breakdown of the materials and cost:
2 Two-drawer file cabinets = $12
6 1x4's (6 feet each) - 6 x $3.72 each = $22.32
Sandpaper (already had it!) = $0
Stain (already had the Honey color) = $7.77
10 8x1-1/4" Screws (already had them!) = $0
1x1-1/2's cut into 17 in. (already had it!) = $0
Total = $42.09
Considering one of the purchases (the stain) will provide MANY more uses, this is a GREAT deal for a customized piece of furniture!
Thanks for reading, friends!!


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19" Cedar Ball (Indoor/Outdoor)
A globe of natural greenery, this perfect recreation of a cedar plant has been shaped into a striking ball shape. With 1988 leaves and a full 19" diameter, it's a full, deep decoration that will command attention, whether it's part of a group or standing alone. The ideal part is this beauty is long-lasting, because this piece never needs water or sun. It also makes a great gift for that eclectic someone as well.
Height: 19 In.
Width: 19 In.
Depth: 19 In.


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Extensive media coverage has helped the Quicksilver project to progress. There have been full-page features in the UK's Sunday Times, Daily Mail, Mail on Sunday, Daily Express, Sun and Daily Star Sunday, an interview feature on Channel 4's The Big Breakfast, and coverage in documentaries shown on Discovery Channel, The History Channel, National Geographic Channel, and BBC2, BBC3 and BBC4.
There has also been considerable regional media coverage in parts of the country that have a close connection with the Quicksilver project, such as the East Midlands, the West Midlands and the North-West.
We thank all of our contacts in the media world for their interest and their positive coverage of our quest.


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Q: I own and manage a small apartment complex. I'd prefer not to have tenants running day care operations. I've allowed it before, but the noise and comings and goings of the children and the parents were disruptive; and I'm worried about my liability if someone is injured. Can I specify that this type of home business will not be allowed? –Janice C.
A: In a few states, including California and New York, a landlord's attempt to prevent home day care operations on rental property would be illegal. In those states, the legislatures and courts have concluded that society as a whole has too much to lose, in the way of affordable, quality care for its children, if landlords are allowed to prevent home day care. But the majority of states have not reached that conclusion.


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IMPHAL, May 15: The Manipur unit of Naga Peoples' Front (NPF), a regional political party has said the victory of NPF candidate Toshipokba Longkumer over SC Jamir in the just concluded Nagaland by-poll was in the interest of the Naga people.
Congratulating Longkumer, NPF Manipur unit general secretary S Kho John said the people of Aonglenden A/C have upheld the party leadership vision which is laudable by every Naga. S Kho John also expressed his deep appreciation on behalf of the Manipur unit of NPF to Naga chief minister Neiphiu Rio and NPF president Dr Shurhozelie Lizietsu and all their colleagues for the progress of the NPF.
The Naga Peoples' Front (NPF) has been active in Manipur since March 31 as one of the regional political parties, according to its general secretary (Manipur unit) S. Kho John.
Mentionably, NPF led Democratic Alliance of Nagaland (DAN) government is in its second term in Nagaland under the leadership of Neiphiu Rio, the chief minister of Nagaland.
Meanwhile, S. Kho John informed NNN today that any political party, group or individual in Manipur are welcome in the fold of the NPF. The party general secretary said that enrolment of names in the party is underway and that further information can be had from its temporary office at Deulahland, Imphal.
(Courtesy: The Sangai Express / Newmai News Network)Number of Views :3164
Related Sites:
*The Sangai Express- Largest Circulated News Paper In Manipur
*E-Pao! :: Complete e-platform for Manipuris
*All postings on this website are provided "AS IS" from the source duly mentioned at the end of the post. It comes with no warranties, and confer no rights. All entries in this website are the views/opinions of the writers and don't necessarily reflect the view/opinion of ManipurOnline.


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|Wing Area:
|1036 sq. in.
|20lbs 15oz.
|Wing Loading:
|46.5 oz/sq. ft.
|11 Futaba servos - see text
|Futaba 9CAPS with TM8 FASST module.
|Futaba R608FS FASST receiver
|Receiver Battery:
|4 cell 4200mah Hydrimax
|Electrifly Rimfire brushless outrunner motors (42-60-480kv).
|Castle Creations Phoenix 80 controllers
|Flight Battery:
|Electrifly Power Series 3200 mAh LiPo batteries
|Top Flite
|Available From:
|Great Planes distributors or your local hobby shop
|Retail Price:
|$649.98 - ARF kit only
Top Flite touts this plane as "The most detailed B-25 ARF ever inside and out!", and they will get no argument from me! This airplane looks incredible, and has many of the scale details that one would not expect in an ARF model. Top Flite is known in the industry for designing and manufacturing aircraft kits that look and fly extremely well, and with the release of the Gold Edition B-25 ARF, Top Flite has taken the ARF beyond the next level.
The main kit box was shipped inside of another box for added protection. Inside of the main kit box, the sub-assemblies were also boxed and sealed in a protective plastic. The sub-assembly boxes are fitted in the main box with the precision of a puzzle. The airframe arrived in perfect condition except for one scratch on the right inside flap.
Although I knew the dimensions of this model before it arrived at my doorstep, its hard to appreciate the size of this model until its sitting right in front of you... or until your wife explains how she got it into the house from the doorstep!
The fuselage is massive but surprisingly light. The construction is traditional balsa and plywood with fiberglass, plastic and metal accessories. The fiberglass parts are pulled and painted with precision and are extremely tough. The Monokote on the fuselage and wings had the slightest amount of sag in it, but was easily shrunk back in place with the aid of a covering iron.
Kit Contains:
Additional items provided for this review and recommended by Great Planes:
The assembly manual is incredibly detailed. The pictures are large and clear and make it easy to pick out detail as explained in the text. My B-25 was one of the first produced, so the manual had a few small omissions and discrepancies that have been noted and updated on the Top Flite website.
Hint: During the construction of the B-25, Hex head screws are used often. I found out that garden variety hex wrenches, especially in the .050 size, are not up to the task. Save yourself some frustration and start with the good stuff from the beginning.
The wing is assembled from 4 separate sections. The two outer sections each include an aileron and a flap. The two inner wing panels each include a flap and eventually the subassembly that includes the motor nacelle and landing gear unit.
The first step in the assembly process is to hinge the flaps on the inboard wing panels. Pivot (pinpoint) hinges are used throughout the model to hinge the control surfaces, although different sized hinges are used for different control surfaces.
Before hinging any of the surfaces, the manual recommends that you add a small drop of plastic compatible oil to the pivot point of each hinge to help lube the joint, but more importantly to keep the Epoxy from adhering to the pivot joints.
The nice thing about hinging this model is that all of the hinge holes come drilled, and you dont have search for the holes because the Monokote covering is cut away from the hinge holes.
Take your time - it is easy to insert the control surfaces too close to the main wing assembly. Make sure the pivot point of the hinge is on the hinge line.
At this point, the manual recommends assembling the engine nacelle system, mounting the motors and fitting the fuel tanks to the inboard wing panels. Since I was converting my B-25 to electric and had yet to determine exactly how I was going to do that, I decided to skip ahead and do some servo installations while I mulled over the conversion possibilities. I skipped the servo installation for the inboard panels since I would be handling the inboard panel frequently during nacelle assembly, and began working on the outboard panels.
Each of the outboard panels has two control surfaces: one aileron and one flap. The flaps and ailerons are hinged with pivot point hinges in the same manner as the inboard flap although smaller sized pivot point hinges are used for the ailerons.
The flap and aileron servos are installed (screwed) onto mounting blocks that are glued to the back of the servo hatches. The hatches (all hatches) already have the Monokote removed from the servo control horn slot (also note that the screw holes in the hatch come laser cut from the factory). Little touches like this make building the B-25 a much more enjoyable experience. Each of the servo hatches are held in place in the wing with 4 small .050 allen head screws.
On many models (including scale models), the control horns are attached by sending a screw through the control horn to an attachment plate on the other side of the control surface. The result is usually a very secure control horn that looks terrible. On the B-25, the control horns are attached to the control surfaces with small wood screws that screw into hardwood plates embedded in the control surfaces, and the result is a very sturdy installation with no control horn retaining plates on the top of the wings.
The manual recommends making control rods that consist of a soldered clevis on one end and a nylon clevis on the threaded end. Since I have had a few issues with nylon clevises in the past, I decided to use 2-56 Dubro control rods with metal clevises on one end and Z-bends on the other to connect the servo control arms to the control surfaces.
The manual recommends jumping ahead to look at the "servo extension sketches in the back of the manual." These sketches do not show the proper orientation for the hatches, and the pictures are for extension purposes only. I got a little eager and followed the ones sketched in the back for the hatch layout since I had just flipped to it as recommended in the manual to look at extensions and ended up mounting the servos with the wrong orientation. The pictures on the main wing page in the manual (page 23) are correct.
I had finally decided how to approach the electric conversion. (Note: At this point in my build, Top Flite had not yet released a conversion addendum). The B-25 doesnt appear to be designed with electric power in mind. There is no central battery location with easy access, and in fact, there is no easy access into the center of the fuse without cutting it (which I couldnt bring myself to do) and limited access to the front of the fuse only after removing the canopy and cockpit floor (after completion). Without easy access into the fuse, I decided I was eventually going to make battery trays in each of the wood nacelles where the glow fuel tank would normally go. Unfortunately, the recommended battery packs are a little too large to fit all the way into the tank compartment. I decided to come back to this.
The wood nacelles are a combination of balsa and ply that are surprisingly light and tough. They are also fuel-proofed which is a nice touch for those who will be flying with glow power. Each of the nacelles is held in place on the inboard wing panels with 4 nylon bolts and a pair of nylon alignment pins.
I used the mounting template provided with the Electrifly brushless motor mount (medium motors) as a guide for drilling the mounting holes on the front of each firewall.
I drilled a small hole at the cross section of the template, and then used this to find the center of the firewall as viewed through the back from the glow tank compartment. After the template was centered and attached, I drilled the holes for the motor mount and repeated these steps for the other nacelle.
The Rimfire motor attaches to the motor mount with 4 screws. The X-mount supplied with the motor is not used. After the motor/mount system is assembled, the whole assembly attaches to the firewall with 4 4-40 bolts, washers, and blind nuts.
At this point, I still had not decided how I was going to fabricate the battery trays, so I moved on to the main landing gear (retracts).
The B-25 kit comes with fixed landing gear, but I installed the optional but highly recommended Robart retracts for this review.
The air line must be installed before mounting the retracts. I picked the purple air line that came with the control kit for the "up" line and used the pink for the "down" line. I made sure I followed that protocol for the entire assembly process. There is no guessing on the length of the air line needed; the manual gives the proper length to cut the air line. (Note: The amount of airline provided in the control kit was not enough for the entire build. I needed one more set.)
The air lines are run through the nacelles and then out to the inboard edge of the wing panels. Note: The "up" air lines for the retracts are run through a small hole in the back of the nacelle first. Make sure to center the retract plate on its perimeter in the countersunk mounting space before mounting the retracts permanently. The Retracts are mounted to hardwood rails in the wood nacelle with 1/2 inch Philips screws.
I wanted to get an idea of how the fuel tank opening (new battery tray area) would line up with the fiberglass nacelles, and I also wanted to see how much clearance I would have between the wood nacelle and the fiberglass nacelle to help me determine the best way to approach the battery trays and hatches. I skipped ahead just a bit in the manual and mounted the fiberglass nacelles.
The fiberglass nacelles simply mount to the inboard wing panels with washers and Phillips screws that are screwed into hardwood plates mounted in the panels.
With the fiberglass nacelles removed, I drilled 8 holes in the precut marks on the firewall and installed blind nuts on the back (if you hadnt noticed yet the fiberglass nacelles need to be removed and installed multiple times during construction). I reinstalled the fiberglass nacelle for the following steps. Next, I installed the four plywood mounting tabs (per nacelle) and the cowl rings.
At this point the manual recommends test fitting and cutting the cowls to fit the head of the engines. Yet another nice advantage of electric systems, nice uncut scale looking cowls!
In order to more easily work on the nacelles and cowls, the inboard wing panels are temporarily mounted at this point. The aluminum wing tubes simply slide into fiberglass sockets in the fuselage and then the wing panels slide onto the wing tubes. The included stand makes this and the rest of assembly easier.
I attached the fiberglass intakes to the top of the wing panels with 8 button head allen screws. The fiberglass cowls are now slid over the cowl rings and aligned with the fiberglass intakes. On my kit I had the sand the sides of the rings slightly in order to get the cowls to slide back to their proper location. With the cowls temporarily in place I attached the props to the motors and then adjusted the cowls for a better fit.
As noted in the manual, "due to the out thrust and down thrust of the engine, a compromise will have to be made between centering the propeller in the cowl and aligning the cowl with the nacelle cover." This was a bit frustrating: When I centered the prop hub in the cowl it made the cowl look extremely crooked in relation to the nacelle and wing. When I centered the cowl in relation to the nacelle, the prop was no where near centered in the cowl. At this point I was questioning why I didnt remove the offset thrust. Since I was converting my model to electric, the chances of an engine out situation are greatly reduced.
Back to the situation at hand, I decided to compromise (as noted in the manual), but I leaned toward making the cowls as close to straight as possible. After I was comfortable with the cowl placement, I tack glued it in place to the cowl ring.
Next, I removed the screws from the cowl rings and slid the cowls with rings attached away from the nacelles. I used thick CA to build a glue fillet on the front and rear of the cowl rings. Now that the rings were permanently installed, I moved onto the replica engines.
The replica engines are made from a fairly hard black plastic. Part of the preparation of the replica engines included attaching replica pushrods. Talk about detail! The pushrods are actually made from metal. Although it takes some time to attach the pushrods as described in the manual, the end result looks impressive.
I wanted to see if I had enough clearance between my replica engines and rotating outrunner motors so I temporarily installed the engines to the cowls with tape. After a quick test fit of the cowls, I could see that I would need to do some cutting to achieve the clearance I needed. I used a Dremel sanding drum to cut the holes larger in the front of the replica engines.
Before permanently mounting the replica engines in the cowls, I sanded the edges of the engines and the insides of the cowls for better glue adhesion. I used thick CA to attach the replica engines.
In order to screw the cowl rings to the mounting tabs I had to reach ever so gently through the replica engines back to the cowl rings while trying not to lose the washers from the mounting screws. After a few less than stellar attempts, I added a few small pieces of fuel tubing to the screws to hold the washers in place. I just so happens I wouldnt need the fuel tubing that came with the kit. After I had the cowls mounted, I went back and added the props and prop nuts.
Note: Before permanently mounting the cowls, I mounted the Castle Creations Phoenix controllers to the sides of the motor mounts with Velcro.
One end of the forward and rear aluminum wing tubes comes with a 4-40 hole already tapped, but the builder must drill and tap the other end of the tubes. This is not much fun but you must take your time when you do this. I took my time and still ended up with one center hole.
With the tube and inboard wing attached, one of the holes in the tube is lined up and secured through the pre-drilled hole in the wing panel. I marked the wing tube corresponding hole with the tip of the drill bit before I made the final decision to drill. I backed the wing panel off of the tube and checked to make sure I was lined up in the center of the tube and then drilled through the corresponding hole in the wing down through the wing tube and taped the opposite hole with a 4-40 tap.
A molded plastic oil cooler air scoop is mounted to each of the outboard wing panels (Monokote needs to be removed first). The air scoop serves two purposes: First, it looks cool and adds to the scale appearance, and second, It serves as the access point where a 1/4-20 nylon bolt is inserted to attach the outer wing panel to the inner wing panel... along with a 4-4- socket head screw. The outer wing panels are attached to the inner wing panels with the same method of drilling and tapping as used for the inboard panels.
As you might recall, the battery would not lay down flat in the tank compartment; it is just slightly too long. During the fit of the fiberglass nacelles, I noticed that there was a fair amount of space between the wood nacelle and the fiberglass nacelle. It appeared that it would be easy to make a slanted tray in the tank compartment that would fit the battery easily and still remain neatly tucked inside of the fiberglass nacelle. Luckily, about two days later Top Flite released an electric conversion addendum that shows a conversion process very similar to what I was planning!
With fiberglass nacelle removed, I first removed the top of the fuel tank trays in each nacelle. I realized that I could get the battery much further into the nacelle if I cut the tray. I attached one of the cut wood nacelles back onto the wing and made a paper template to represent a battery tray. I ran the template the length of the nacelle opening allowing the rear of the template to rest on the back of the opening and the front of the template to rest on the leading edge of the wing to provide the proper slant needed to allow the batteries to be inserted the deepest into the nacelle. After I was comfortable with my battery tray arrangement, I used the paper template to cut two permanent battery trays from light aircraft plywood.
I permanently mounted the trays to the nacelles and used hard balsa square stock as support for the bottom of the trays.
I used a strip of Velcro down the center of the battery trays along with a Velcro "seatbelt" to keep the batteries secure on the trays.
Now that I had very functional new battery trays, it was time to construct a way to easily insert and remove the battery packs. As with most of the parts, the fiberglass nacelles as provided are very rigid and are fabricated and painted with every bit of care and detail that any fine modeler would have put into them had they been building them from scratch. Now it was my turn to tear them up a bit.
Since the conversion addendum had been released, I used it as a reference guide for making the hatches but decided to make mine just a bit smaller than recommended. By making it smaller I could cut along the natural lateral break lines in the nacelle and still have plenty of room to insert the battery. After measuring to make sure the battery could easily pass, I outlined the hatch into the nacelle with a number 11 X-Acto blade. Next, I used a fine tooth Zona saw to remove the hatches from the nacelles.
After the hatches were removed I used small plywood tabs in the corners of the nacelle openings to keep the hatch from falling into the nacelle.
It was time to dig into my old box of leftover parts to see if I could come up with an easy way to attach the hatches. I quickly found a pair of latches that I had intended for another project. I made a small slot in each hatch to allow for the spring mechanism and then attached the latches to each nacelle with thick CA. One the other end of the hatch, I added a pair of plywood tabs to the hatch in order to keep the hatches from falling off when they are inverted. I did a quick install of my new hatch/latch system and found that it worked well but had just a little bit of slop in it. A small piece of plywood inserted into the main nacelle, where the latch pin fits, did the trick and made everything fit tightly. The hatches are easily removed and installed with the new hatch/latch system.
Gear doors are a must on a model of this caliber. The gear doors on this B-25 ARF are made of fairly heavy fiberglass and are molded separately from the nacelles but not cut from them, which helps to speed up assembly time and save on the aggravation of cutting them out from the nacelles. They dont fit perfectly, although they are very close.
The offset hinges are metal and consist of two main parts. The front half of the hinge (door hinges) has nylon ball links that must be connected to one end with some washers and a screw. The other half of the hinge (nacelle hinges) has the ball link ball that must be attached to it. The hinging action is provided by the socket connection between the ball and the nylon socket.
|Note: There are two different "types" of hinges used for the gear door installation. The rear door hinges have a slightly different orientation from the front. My kit included a hinge addendum that clarified some of the possible hinge issues with the manual.
After the hinges are assembled, the bottom of each hinge mounting plate is sanded to remove the anodizing for better adhesion. I taped the fiberglass doors onto each nacelle in its proper position, then glued the hinges with epoxy and microballons to the back of the gear doors and nacelles. The process quickly got a bit messy even by my standards. I thought I could do more than one hinge at a time and keep it neat, but I was wrong, so I pulled the hinges out, cleaned everything up and started again. This time I did one hinge at a time using 5 minute epoxy and microballons. Much better!
This was the first time I had hinged anything using the method described above. I was amazed at how well it worked and how fairly easy it was to assemble.
The main gear doors on the B-25 are closed when the retracts come back and hit a bellcrank lever which in turn moves the pushrods that close the doors. The main gear doors are opened when the retracts release the bellcrank lever and a spring in turn pulls the bellcrank which pushes the pushrods that open the doors. Sound complicated? It might be if I had to figure out the geometries by myself, but fortunately for me it is all figured out and explained in the manual in perfect detail.
The first step is to mount the lever mount/lever stop to the back of the wood nacelle. The thin plastic washer is mounted to the bellcrank next. The bellcrank is then mounted to the lever mount with a brass bushing and a screw. The spring is then hooked between the lever mount and the bellcrank lever. This assembly is the main pivot point that provides the base for the door retraction. Inspect these pieces often! The retract comes back and hits the bellcrank lever fairly hard.
Following the template in the instruction manual, I bent the inboard door pushrods. On one end of the pushrod I added a nylon clevis. On the other end I added and EZ-connector and a control horn. The outboard pushrods are made from short threaded pushrods with a pair of nylon clevises and a control horn. One end the pushrods is attached to the bellcrank with the nylon clevises. The other end is attached to the to the gear door by gluing the control horn in place with CA.
After the pushrods were attached, I gently worked the doors up and down by hand (the retracts were not locked) as much as I could to see if the mechanism was working properly. It was working well, but not perfectly. I was having a small binding issue with my outboard pushrods, and I could see that the pushrods were hitting up against the side of the fiberglass nacelles. After reworking the bend in the pushrod, I had the nacelle working without binding. It was time to try my luck with some air. I put my hand pump on the up line of the right retract and gave it some pressure. The retract went back fairly quickly and pulled the doors closed. Unfortunately, there was a gap between the doors when closed. I went back and shortened the length of the pushrods a bit and gave it another try, and this time they worked perfectly. I needed to perform the same process on the other gear door pushrods as well.
A short screwdriver comes in real handy for the nose gear installation.
Before mounting the nose retract, I mounted a set of small ball-links to the sides of the gear strut on the steering arm. These will eventually serve as the mounting links for the pull-pull steering cables. This was a bit different than I was used to but the system works very well. The nose gear simply mount to two hardwood rails in the front of the fuselage with Phillips screws.
The nose gear door functions in a similar fashion to the main gear doors in that the action of the retract triggers the closing of the doors and springs in turn help open the doors. The difference is the spring action for the nose door is provided by the hinges that the door is mounted with. It seemed a little suspect to me during construction but has not proven to be a problem yet.
|The manual shows the installation of the nose gear door lever to the side of the front retract opening. Unfortunately in my kit a small piece of wood that should have been removed at the factory was still present causing a mounting problem. It was obvious from the picture in the manual that this piece of wood was not supposed to be there so I removed it.
One end of the nose gear pushrod has a shortened ball link socket. The other end of the pushrod was connected to a control horn via an ez-connector. The ball link socket connects to a ball link attached to the gear door lever. The control horn is then glued in place on the gear door.
The air system hookup is fairly straightforward if you follow the B-25 instruction manual and the instruction manual included with the air control kit. The B-25 kit comes with a plywood air control mount and fill valve mount pieces that make the installation of the control valve and fill valve a breeze. For those that have previously made their own air control mounts you will really appreciate this. The fill valve and pressure valve are mounted to the side of the fuselage in factory provided holes (Monokote covering needs to be removed), while the air control valve is mounted to a laser cut etching of itself on the factory installed radio tray. The air control valve is operated with a standard size servo which I mounted to the radio tray.
I mounted the receiver to the radio tray with Velcro. The Velcro provides some vibration dampening but there isnt much vibration with those smooth running Rimfire outrunners. There is an antennae tube factory installed in the fuselage, but I chose to run my antenna along the bottom of the fuselage for better reception (before the maiden flight I switched over to an eight channel 2.4GHz receiver). The mount switch and charge jack were then mounted to the side of the fuselage. The whole installation looks very neat and is easily be covered by the cockpit floor.
The instruction manual recommends installing the air tank in the front of the fuselage in a mounting hole in the former. It makes for a very neat installation, but I wanted to use a slightly bigger air tank than recommended. The bigger tank would not easily fit in the front without some former modification, so I decided to mount the air tank above the fiberglass wing tubes in the fuselage. I made a small plywood tray and glued that to the top of fiberglass tubes with CA. I then mounted the air tank to the tray with Velcro.
Having two battery packs mounted in separate nacelles presented a little bit of a problem for me. I like to run my twins with the battery packs in parallel so each motor sees the same voltage. I knew I might be pushing my luck if I ran my system in parallel the way I normally do (battery wires coming to one common point) because of all the excess wire that would be needed. Many brushless controllers have some issues with overextended battery wires. Since I was running Phoenix 80 controllers, I wanted to see what Castle Creations response would be to the amount of wire I was planning, so I gave them a call.
I spoke with a representative from Castle who said he was in the same situation I was in except he was building a Tigercat. He had a method for running a parallel system without creating havoc on the controllers, and it didnt involve adding extra capacitors. It was simple: "just run a set of wires between the controllers...no need to run wires as a common point (battery) and back to the controllers." I set out to design a system that would do as Castle Creations described, and also be able to come apart if I need to remove the inboard wing panels and nacelles from the fuselage.
The cockpit floor on the B-25 sits up above the radio tray. I installed a set of balsa rails along the fuselage sides for the cockpit floor to be screwed into. The cockpit floor comes pre-painted in flat black. Next, I assembled the instrument panel from a set of decals that are applied to a wood plywood base that has the instrument gauge holes cut out. The "gauge" decal is mounted from behind the instrument cluster in line with the cutouts; the template decal is mounted to the front. The completed instrument cluster has a nice 3-dimensional look to it. I glued the completed cluster to the cockpit with thick CA.
The B-25 kit includes a set of pilots but they are not what I would consider "scale". They are flat plate wood profile cutouts. They will make good place holders until I can find a set of appropriate pilots. The decals of the pilots are attached to the wood bases. The bases have a small tab in the bottom of them that fit into a corresponding slot in the cockpit floor. I secured the pilots with CA. The pilots each have a green seat back that glues directly to the cockpit floor behind them. The last step in cockpit assembly is to glue in the yoke posts and control yokes. The completed cockpit probably won't win any scale static competitions, but it adds to the scale realism.
The nose-gunner canopy is constructed from a lower fiberglass piece to which an upper canopy window is attached. I scuffed up the contact areas with sandpaper to ensure a good bond. Thin CA is applied to the inside of the nose-gunner canopy bottom and allowed to wick into the joint. Take your time - the thin CA can easily make its way to the outside of the nose canopy if you add to much CA or rush this process. The assembled nose gun is installed through the hole in the nose-gunner canopy and is held in place with retention hooks and rubber bands. The rubber bands allow the gun to be "shock mounted" so that if it is bumped it wont readily break off.
I installed the nose-gunner cabin platform to the front former with thick CA. The bright green molded plastic cabin floor and cabin back are installed next (The floor is glued to the platform and the cabin back is screws to the front fuselage former). The nose-gunner ammo trays, ammo boxes, and bight orange kneeling pad are then glued to the cabin floor with CA. The completed nose gunner cabin looks very impressive; it adds greatly to the scale effect by giving the B-25 dimensionality.
I installed the four cell 4200 NiMH receiver battery to the bottom of the nose-gunner cabin platform with a Velcro "seatbelt". The nose-gunner canopy and main cockpit canopy are attached the fuselage with small button head screws. As provided, the cut lines on the canopy were not straight, and there were a few burrs along the side edges. There were also scratches on the window section of the canopy. The Main canopy attached easily, but I needed to trim away some of the nose-gunner cabin back in order to get the nose-gunner canopy to fit properly.
I assembled the top turret machine gun from a plastic machine gun base and two plastic machine gun barrels. This assembly is glued to the top of the fuselage after a small round black Monokote piece is added to the top of the fuselage for the machine gun base. The top turret canopy is set on top of the fuselage (around the gun base) and outlined with a felt marker. The outline is then used to trim away some of the Monokote to ensure a good glue joint when gluing on the top turret canopy. The finished top turret machine gun and canopy looks rather menacing!
The tail gunner cabin is made from heavy duty fiberglass and serves two purposes. It houses the tail-gunner pilot position, but it also serves as the cover for the aft end of the fuselage. The tail-gunner pieces (tail-gunner bulkhead, shield, mount, and tail-gunner pilot) are glued to the base of the cabin with CA. I chose to leave the tail-gunner pilot out of the cabin since the canopy would be permanently mounted to the cabin with ca and I didnt want a permanent profile pilot.
I attached the tail gunner cabin to the rear of the fuselage with a set of button head screws and the rear machine guns, which double as mounting screws.
The side gun packs are made from abs and include small wood formers on the inside which help the gun packs to maintain their shape but also serve as a mount for the machine guns. I taped the side gun packs onto the side of the fuselage in order to outline them on the Monokote beneath. The Monokote is removed to make sure that the glue joint between the gun packs and the fuselage is strong. I glued gun packs onto the side of the fuselage with thick CA.
The waist gun windows are glued to the side of the fuselage in the same manner.
The ADF football antenna is attached to the bottom of the fuselage with magnets. I glued the magnets into the fuselage after drilling small holes for them to fit into. The magnet system makes it easy to remove when transporting the model.
The horizontal and vertical stabs are made from balsa and ply and are built with an airfoiled shape. I attached the rudders to the vertical stabs with pivot point hinges. While the vertical stab hinges were drying, I moved on to the vertical stab. Two small plywood joiner mounts are each constructed from two smaller pieces of plywood. I then slid those mounts over the elevator joiner wire. The mounts are glued to the back of the elevator after the covering is removed from the glue contact area. Next I slid the elevators over the joiner wire and glued them to the stab with pivot point hinges. A small dowel rod is then inserted into the front of the stab. This small dowel rod locks into a mounting hole in the fuselage.
The vertical stabs have a small cutout that matches the shape of the end of the horizontal stabilizer. The horizontal stab "locks" in to the vertical stabs which are then held in place with 4-40 Philips screws. The rudder servos are embedded in the ends of the horizontal stab. The servos and control rods are attached using the same process as the ailerons and flaps.
The elevator servo is easily mounted in the top of the elevator. I attached the pushrod to the elevator joiner wire with a ball link and socket. I used a z-bend on the servo control horn.
At this point I mounted the horizontal stab to the fuselage with washers and 4-40 screws. Amazingly, the whole assembly is perfectly squared to the fuselage with the preset mounting locations. No need to bring out the triangle and tape measure.
Note: There is a tube installed in the fuselage to run the servo extensions from the rear of the plane to the radio tray.
The decals that are included with the B-25 are the best self adhesive decals that I have ever used. They even have a flat finish which matched the overall scheme of the B-25 perfectly. I used a glass cleaner solution to "float" the decals onto the model and then used a Mactac adhesive applicator pad to squeegee out the excess solution from under the decals. The decals came out perfectly without bubbles.
The instruction manual recommends balancing the completed model on a Great Planes C.G. Machine. At first I was a little apprehensive about putting a 21 pound airframe up on a C.G. machine, but it worked fine although the metal rods did flex a little. The balance point is 5 inches back from the leading edge of the wing where it comes in contact with the fuselage. With the receiver pack installed in the nose, I needed absolutely no extra weight to balance the ready to fly aircraft.
Next, I programmed the radio with the recommended control surface throws.
*From the manual - 1/4" of down elevator should be mixed in with full flap deflection to control "pitch-up" when flaps are extended.
With one 5 cell 3200 mah Electrifly battery hooked up the left motor (14x7 three blade prop) I was getting 536 watts at 28 amps. I dont know about you, but I am used to my models having a lot of power and seeing this reading made me nervous. Thats only 1072 total watts for a 21 pound plane. I thought I might have gotten a bad reading so I tried the right motor and got a similar reading...538 watts. The electric conversion PDF supplied on Top Flite's website claims that this setup should be putting out 680 watts. I advanced the timing on my controller to get more power and came up with 567 watts per side.
I ran some numbers in Motocalc and came up with what I though would be an inexpensive solution. I swapped the 14x7 three blade props for 14x9 props to get more pitch speed and what appeared to be better flying numbers according to Motocalc. With the 14x9 props I am getting 580 watts per side and more pitch speed.
In the meantime I sent an email to Hobbico asking about the relatively low numbers for this setup. I received an email back from Greg Hahn telling me not to worry about a thing. He had been flying this exact power combination at a few events around the country and reported great success.
I ran different power combinations and figured out that six cells and the 14x7 props would also be a great alternative for higher power flying. A local club member put me in touch with a FlightPower Representative who expressed interest in helping me find a higher power alternative for the bomber. He sent a set of 6s 4270 EvoLite battery packs. With the FlightPower 6s packs I was getting 865 watts per side with the 14x7 props...much better. I was comfortable with this setup because Great Planes recommends 6 cells and a 15x8 two blade prop for .70 four stroke equivalence in their "brushless power system" literature.
I now had my lower power and lower weight setup (Electrifly battery) and my higher power but higher weight setup (FlightPower battery). I would try the recommended setup first then see later how much of a performance increase the six cell pack would be. I was now covered, but unfortunately so was the ground outside... with snow!
After waiting for almost five months after completing the airframe, I finally had a break in the weather that would allow for the maiden flight. I packed up all the flight gear and headed to the field on Memorial Day weekend. I felt it was a very appropriate weekend to fly the maiden flight on a bomber with such a rich history!
As soon as I pulled out the B-25J at the flying field it drew immediate attention from the club members and spectators. Although I would have liked to take credit for building this B-25 from a kit, I had to admit to the questioners that my B-25 was an ARF, and most were amazed at this revelation.
Assembly at the field does not take much time at all. I keep the inboard wing panels mounted all the time so all I have to do is install the outboard wing panels, fill the air tank for the retracts, and install the battery packs.
After the field assembly is complete I perform a range check. I always do a range check before flying, but I was especially careful with my range test for the B-25 maiden flight: I would be committing a fairly expensive plane to flight, and this would be the first time that I have used my 2.4GHz TM8 module system with my Futaba 9CAPS transmitter. Everything tested fine.
The B-25 looks incredible in the air. I personally have never flown an aircraft that held my attention as much as this B-25 does...and I have owned about 60 aircraft. I got caught up in just watching it fly. Although I was skeptical at first, The Rimfire motors provided plenty of power for scale flight. The B-25 is not overpowered but is definitely not underpowered. The Rimfire motors run very quiet with only a little noticeable whine, but the sound from the props is great and adds to the flight experience. I felt no urge to do anything except just fly the B-25 in front of me so I could see how great it looked, but I knew that I needed to test the airframe a bit for this review.
The B-25 tracks incredibly well with little to no tail waggle in the air. Although when the cross wind picked up the B-25 had a higher than average tendency to weather vein into the wind. The B-25 flies much lighter than the wing loading number would indicate. It never gave me that sinking impression and I never felt like I was on the verge of a stall even when I was turning upwind at about half throttle.
I used the recommended low rates for almost the entire flight. At one point I switched to high rates but quickly switched back because the B-25 felt more in control on low rates. The B-25 is very responsive during faster flight. During slower flight, the B-25 is obviously less responsive but maintains perfect control right up to its stall point. It does have a very minimal flight correcting tendency. It will very, and I mean very, slowly START to correct itself out of a turn, but it wont return the wings to level. The B-25 is incredibly smooth in flight. I really didnt expect that it would be this easy to fly and also fly this well.
The rudders are surprisingly effective but not overly. I eventually used a small bit of rudder in the turns to help keep the nose down. Without rudder input, the B-25 will maintain a nose high attitude in the turns at lower flight speeds. At higher flight speeds the B-25 maintains a level attitude in turns.
The wind at the field was blowing slightly across the runway and was gusting to about 15 mph. I wasnt too worried about the wind because the B-25 has some weight to it and shouldnt be affected too much by the wind. I advanced the throttle slowly and taxied out to the runway. A quick hit of the throttle to about half showed that the B-25 would accelerate quickly. I taxied to the end of the runway, shut down the motors, took a deep breath, and then slowly advanced the throttle to get the bomber rolling. After I was comfortable with how it was tracking, I advanced the throttle to full and watched it accelerate down the runway. The B-25 picked up speed quickly but never seemed to get very fast on the runway. I kept the aircraft on the runway for about 400 feet and then slowly fed in some up elevator. The B-25 lifted gracefully off of the runway but was climbing a little steeper than I wanted for the first flight. I pulled the throttle back to about 3/4 and started a slow banking turn out over the grass runway at our field. I wanted to make sure there wasnt too much drag from the gear doors effecting the flight characteristics so I pulled the retracts up on my first pass. The B-25 picked up speed as soon as the gear was tucked away. I needed about nine clicks of down elevator and about 4 clicks of right aileron to get it to fly straight and level.
To prepare for landing I slowed the model down slightly and dropped the landing gear and flaps. With the landing gear and flaps down the model decelerated rather quickly so I fed in some more throttle. To deal with the slightly excessive flap to elevator mix causing a slightly nose down attitude, I had to hold in a little more elevator. The B-25 began to settle in nicely. On final, I accidentally let off a little too much on the elevator and the nose dropped. I pulled back on the elevator quickly and the bomber recovered perfectly. I was now lined up over the runway at just slightly under half throttle. The actual landing was uneventful. All I needed to do was hold back slightly on the elevator while slowly dropping the throttle. The B-25 set down on the runway smoothly with a slightly nose high attitude and rolled out perfectly under control. I taxied back to the pits and shut the motors down.
What is really special about the B-25 is how it flies, especially with the flaps down; it slows down to a crawl. Unfortunately the recommended flap to elevator mix provided in the manual gave the B-25 a nose down attitude with the flaps extended so I had to feed in some up elevator.
Aerobatics? Well, this is a bomber. It isnt going to be very aerobatic and its obviously not meant to be, but I did manage to sneak in a roll. The roll was not the most graceful thing I had ever seen, but it was easily accomplished on low rates with very little down elevator needed while inverted. I would imagine that the B-25 would have no problem doing a loop. It has enough power and speed at full throttle.
Although the B-25 is fairly easy to fly it is not for beginners. There are also some fairly complicated assembly steps and flight system that needs to be installed and operated precisely. A pilot with a few sport models and experience with flaps and retracts should have no problem with the B-25.
When I started this project I was excited about the possibility of having a showpiece aircraft in my fleet, and that possibility is now a complete reality. It is an incredibly impressive model that grabs attention whether on the ground or in the air. The Top Flite B-25 is the most detailed ARF I have ever assembled, and the 62 hours that it took me to assemble it is only part of the proof. This B-25 is loaded with scale details.
The only thing better than the way the B-25 looks is the way it flies. It is incredibly smooth and handles much easier than the high wing loading would indicate. The electric conversion proved to be a little extra work but was fairly easily accomplished. All of the electric components worked flawlessly. Top Flite has raised the bar on ARF scale aircraft. I can't wait to see what they come up with next.
Watch for flight updates with the 6 cell FlightPower battery!Last edited by kevin; Jun 03, 2008 at 09:15 PM..
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Great review and a very impressive airplane with the electric motors and retracts.
I'm also impressed with your comment that it flies so well despite the high wing loading.
Very well done. The way you wrote the review will certainly help anyone that wants to convert the TF B-25 to electric. I really liked the fact that you took the hard parts, like the gear door assembly, and detailed the construction with large size pictures. I also liked the fact that you used Master Airscrew 14X7 and 14X9 three blade props. Those are the same props that I used on the VQ P-61...the e-props would just look silly on that kind of plane and Master Airscrew props work just fine.
Hats off to ya. Maybe some of those phoney reviewers will learn from your approach, as most don't show any construction detail. It leads me to think that they didn't even work on the planes themselves.
Whats next?
Thanks for the compliments guys, this was a very fun project. I like to add the extra detail, i am glad you enjoyed it...you should have seen it before it was edited ....although i do like the edited version much better.
I am not sure whats next but i need a little break...i have over 160 hours logged on this project (building, writing, pictures, video, etc.......).
Hopefully Top Flite will send their next gold edition arf my way for conversion....and before you ask, i have no idea if they are even planning on anything at this point
if you have any question feel free to ask.
For some reason the sections published a bit out of order...i apologize and will look into this***********
Last edited by kevin; Jun 04, 2008 at 10:33 AM.
I was a bit concerned about the power level....just under 1100 watts on a 21 pound plane is a lower "watts per pound" rating than i am used to....but i do agree that in level flight it is a bit faster than i would consider scale. (i watched b-25's fly at the mustangs and legends gathering late last year). Although, when you pull the nose up it bleeds off speed somewhat quickly(scale). So the six cell flight will definitely not be made at full throttle, i want to see how the airframe handles the extra power while climbing and in turns..............and also if it can hover, you know all reviews have to talk about how a plane hovers
for those interested....i ran the motors on 6s and the 14x9 props yesterday... 995 watts (the batteries were slightly cold).
Last edited by kevin; Jun 04, 2008 at 10:32 AM.
That is a really nice ARF, and glad to hear you had success after spending your life savings on it. It took me a bit of arm twisting just to buy an EVO 4-cell, but they are worth it. I think I'd be afraid to fly anything on the large Electrifly I still have.
One question: Was the nose art made to distract enemy fighters?
Last edited by EDF30; Jun 04, 2008 at 03:29 PM.
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Rockbox mail archiveSubject: Re: voices files we can use for rockbox
Re: voices files we can use for rockbox
From: Glenn at home <GlennErvin_at_cableone.net>
Date: 2006-01-27
What do you mean the aT&T voices are gone?
Since the AT&T voices are now gone, what voices can we use? NO, most of us
Page was last modified "Jan 10 2012" The Rockbox Crew


text:
Gus Poyet is new Sunderland boss
Sunderland have confirmed the appointment of Gus Poyet as their new manager on a two-year contract, two weeks after the sacking of Paolo Di Canio.
• Randall: A nervous welcome
• Gray backs Poyet appointment
Poyet, who had long been favourite for the vacant post, will take charge at the Stadium of Light along with his backroom staff, Mauricio Taricco and Charlie Oatway.
The Uruguayan will fill the void left by Di Canio who, after being appointed to replace Martin O'Neill in March, was sacked five games into the new Premier League season.
Former Sunderland defender Kevin Ball had been operating as caretaker manager while the club searched for a new boss, and had put himself forward as a candidate for the full-time position.
But Sunderland have opted for Poyet, 45, as the man to lift them off the bottom of the Premier League table.
Club owner Ellis Short told Sunderland's official website: "We analysed a wide range of candidates and believe that Gus's track record, experience, commitment and passion make him the right man to take us forward. We welcome him to Sunderland."
Poyet, meanwhile, is eager to grab his opportunity to coach in the Premier League with both hands, outlining a plan for there to be understanding and trust between himself and the players.
"It's a big, big challenge," Poyet said. "However, it's a challenge I'm really excited about. I never thought I would get an opportunity to manage in the Premier League but here I am and it's now up to me to prove that the right man has been chosen. I'm absolutely delighted."
"I need to address the problems quickly, we -- the team -- need to get better and pick up points -- the sooner we get that first league win the better. It's my job to have very good communication with the players and for them to understand the way we need them to play football. There has to be good understanding and trust.
"We need to commit as a group and all work together -- players staff and fans, we need to be strong together."
And Poyet has immediately moved to distance his regime from the previous leadership of Paolo Di Canio, while maintaining he hopes to keep a hold of Sunderland assistant Kevin Ball.
"The time of Paolo has come to an end. We are all different. You cannot compare me to anyone. I am not better or worse, I am different" Poyet told the BBC.
"Kevin doesn't know yet how important he is going to be for me. It is clear you need someone with the qualities Kevin has so I am going to count on him a lot."
Former Chelsea and Tottenham midfielder Poyet began his coaching career working under ex-Blues teammate Dennis Wise at Swindon Town and Leeds United before returning the White Hart Lane as first team coach under Juande Ramos.
He took the manager's job at Brighton and Hove Albion in 2009, steering the Seagulls from League One to last season's Championship playoffs, where they lost to rivals Crystal Palace in the semifinals.
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