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just wanted to see how many yakuza aniki riders are out there...post pictures Id love to see them... heres mine
How's that dirt taste?
yo man sweet bike Ill post a pic of mine after work today I dont have a pic on this computer. I have noticed that there just arent that many people rocking yakuza's. I wonder what the sales numbers are like on them
thanks man for the kind words...Id love to see pictures of your bike when you get them up. ill keep checking back.
ok here is my stockish aniki sorry its a poser backyard shot. i keep forgeting to bring my camera out on the trail
i dont think its a poser shot...mine was taken in my yard before hitting a trail...what all have you done to it? the fork looks different from what mine had stock (manitou splice 130mm) anyways I think the aniki's are a great bike to build up. hopefully there will be more riders out there that will post more pictures. if you have any ?'s on what to upgrade or suggestions let me know...
i guess were the only aniki owners maybe we should extend this to all yakuza owners.. and one more poser shot, i dont like the the stock fork, probably want to go with a nixon. and some lighter components, more for all mountain stuff
Hey I got one too! The fork on tagnasty's bike is the stock Spinner Ammo that comes on the bike for this season. Mines pretty stock except I upgraded the rear wheel to an atomlabs trailpimp with DT champion spokes and an XT hub and I upgraded the brake levers to Avid SD-Ti and my front shifter was replaced with an LX shifter due to it brakeing on me during a crash. Heres some shots I have of it: (sorry for the low quality Pics)
Woohoo first action shot! Granted I look all goofy because Im getting ready to pop up onto a bridge.
Edit: And a short vid I made with the aniki featured in it:
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Last edited by Eric Hoefer; 09-04-2006 at 12:35 PM.
Hiking is just walking where its okay to pee... Sometimes old people go hiking by accident. -Demetri Martin-
dude the bike looks good, glad to see some action shots im going to try to get out this weekend and get some, just havent had much time lately. i was starting to think there were only 2 aniki owners out there
Thanks for the compliments, Yeah I know I never see the aniki anywheres, but its a great frame to start with and have a cheapish bike to ride for a good amount of time and with the right upgrades the aniki could become a great am/fr bike depending on what parts are put on it.
awesome shots guys hopefully we will keep fishing out other yakuza aniki riders out there...there great bikes if you go to mtbmovies.com go to member profiles and look up Yayuzafreeriders profile thats mine ive got a few more pictures there, even the ones with x's on them work just click on them...thanks guys
I'm ordering a new fork and pedals tomorow so stay tuned in theres sure to be some photos coming in some time next week.
sweet man i have been thinking about new pedals myself, but i want to wear down the stock ones a little more first.i also checked out your page yakuzafreerider lots of sweet pics you should post them up here, so even the lazy can enjoy
Hey guys...nice pics/vids. I just got and Aniki about 2 months ago. It is really growing on me. I have takin it DH do alot of freeriding and XC. It has performed great in all aspects, although a little sluggish on the flats! I really have nothing to compare it to, being my first FS but like i said, I'm loving it so far. I would post some pics but you might as well look at the "stockish" pics from above cause it looks just the same. Stay tuned........
Tagnasty: Yeah my stocker wellgos started developing play in the spindle so I took off the dust cap to see if the spindle had wiggled itself loose but the bolt was tight so over time it must have just gotten worn out. I will have some Crank Bros 50/50 XX in Gold and an '05 Marzocchi Bomber Z1 FR3 ordered tomorow.
sweet love the pedals...i was wanting those but ended up with dmr v8's which arent bad for $30....the aniki will definatley be a little slugish on flats and on some climbing it is not the lightest of bikes, but the more you ride it the easier it will become. its a great bike to build onto. thanks for the compliments so far guys.
Freerider......is that a fox rea shock?r or the original shock with a stronger coil?
i contacted iron horse bout the rear coil bein way to soft, they sent me a 650lb coil to replace the stock 300lb one. they didnt ask any ?'s they just mailed it. so yea is a stronger coil thats all for now, i do want a manitou metal r eventually to max out the frames travel potential...my dream shock is the crane creek double barrel! but im not made of money lol later guys-t
I did the same thing, they sent me a 750lb spring I almost wanna drop back down to a 650 but I dont know if that will be too soft. He said I was right on the borderline between 650 and 750lb springs. I was also thinking of doing a Metel R or RP I rode a rental Aniki at Hunter Mountain that was equipped with a Metel R and the extra inch of travel/higher quality suspension made it ride even better.
cool 650lb just right for me bein around 190lbs i set the rebound at 75% which is pretty nice, but eventually ill need more travel. but for now it works great. check out the classifieds here on mtbr you may find a replacement rear suspension, id buy one but money is tight right now...; ) l8r t
Hii I got bought a Aniki and am gona get it the comin week...so happy it is my first
real mountain bike... and not sure why people keep complainin about how the aniki and the
brand iron horse sux tho... but any ways just wonderin Eric Hoefer is ur aniki 2006 or 2005
Once i get my bike i will share how my first ride is and pics of it
Race Face Diabolus Bars and Stem, Wellgo B-67 flats, '04 Jr T, IRD post, WTB saddle:
i heard a few compliants in reviews of the bike...but i have yet to understand why check out my reviews of the bike here on this site under the 05 the only differance in the bike now in 06 is the provided travel of the fork and maybe a few other things...we all would love to see the pics.
dude that is a sweet little rock section wish i had something like that on a local trail out here
I got my new fork and pedals I went with the 50/50 X I couldnt justify an extra $40 for cartrige bearings. I just got it all buttoned up and I love it. And of course heres some pictures there not the greatest cuz they were taken with my phone but they give you the idea.
eric sweet pics...the pedals are sweet! youll have to let us all know how it rides! my bike unfortunatley took 20hrs to break the fork in ; ( but shes all good now though. curbuncle the kumicho is sweet, id love to find some spots like in your photos around here. just curious how much did you pay for the rig? keep the threads coming guys!
I paid 1399 for the Kumicho last December, got it at Perf. I swapped the spring on the Progressive for a 500# and together with the Jr T the suspension is perfect for downhilling, stunts and the shore. Here's a fresh glamour shot:
Last edited by carbuncle; 09-13-2006 at 07:20 PM.
carbuncle, thats a pretty sweet price for the bike, at least you didnt have to much of an empty wallet after that purchase. most of the bigger travel rigs have huge pricetags but the key is to look around and choose wisely. i love the red on your bike pretty dope color. couple ?s i cant remember is your bike a 7 or 8 inch travel bike? and do you still have the stock rear coil? let me know-t
I think the Progressive had a 350# spring on it when I got it. I'm a big boy, 6' 2" and 235, and it was way undersprung for me so I had Perf get a 500# spring from Progressive for me. The Kumicho is 8" of rear wheel travel, and my Jr T has 7 up front so it's pretty balanced. If you are thinking about a Kumicho, I'd say look at the '06s over the '05s. The 05 models had a cheesy toy floating brake that started screaming and vibrating the whole frame on my second hard ride (and the first real big-mountain ride I took it on) and came with a horrifyingly inadequate Manitou Stance Kingpin dual crown fork on it: I never actually even took off road before I swapped it with Jr T I already had. I have some friends who have the '06 White freeride oriented model and the Blue DH racing oriented model, and they are both sweet bikes with killer forks and should be going on sale pretty soon to make room for the '07s. BTW, Yakuzafreerider, I like the stealth black on your rig. It looks like you have done some sensible upgrades, too, all in the right places. What's next, new rear shock? If I have to replace the Progressive (or get to, since I will change it the first time it shows any sign of trouble) I am thinking Fox DHX 5.0 coil, or maybe a Rocco.
Last edited by carbuncle; 09-18-2006 at 07:24 PM.
carbuncle- im not looking at getting anythind else anytime soon...to be honest this bike feels perfect for me. im sure eventually something new one day but with the frame being as solid as it is, i think with some wise upgrade choices this bike will be with me for the long haul...or if the frame ever breaks lol. the rear shock for now is ok...im considering a swinger 4way, or the manitou metal r ...im not one the too picky on adjustments as long as it rebounds good. but my dream shock is the crane creek double barrel. i just want to to the bike evened out in the travel dept. since the photo above of my bike ive done a few things nothing drastic...i removed the plastic sheild between the rear hub and cogs, and turned the diablous bar stem upside down to reverse the angle-flipping the stem changed the feel a lot and works so much better. but my next purchase upgrade wise will be a MRP chainguide-or an e-13...refering to the floating brake-ive heard there was a lot of issues with it at least there are upgrades to remedy it-the kingpin stance...man i almost bought one but the reviews scared me to death so i found a great deal on a manitou sherman slider + and its worked great...finally broke it in, took 20hrs of riding to do so. i like the black on my rig too, but the paint job sucks, chips a lot but im looking at having it redone in another year or so...i just dont want it to rust anywhere...so im considering sticking to the black...maybe airbrushing another dragon on it or black base with gold and hint of silver tiger striping on it.
Cool, nice choices. Don't worry about rust, aluminum doesn't rust.
Popular Science sez...http://www.popsci.com/popsci/how20/0...cbccdrcrd.html
So next time you meet some fella named 'Jarvis' and looks like he's a bunch of Mercury in his cargo shorts, you tell him 'No!, you cannot ride my trikie.' Stamp your foot even, on the 'No!'.
Did you know if you fall into hot asphalt, you can smear Mayonaise all over yourself to clean the tar off? Damn you, Popular Science. Damn you!!! AND if you happen upon a Black Bear (or vice-versa) in the deep spooky woods, don't lie down and play sleepy time. Throw sticks and rocks at the bear. Or Jarvis...
I was riding at Hunter Mountain today and got to test out the new fork and pedals, I loved each and every second of it. The fork was smooth and stiff and much more responsive overall compared to the stock fork. And the 50/50's offered amazing grip throughout the whole ride and they are super comfortable under your feet too.
Now for the bad news..... If you remember the video I posted in a previous post theres a trail that runs through the woods that results in a bridge that emerges out of the woods and rides down over a cliff out into an open spot on the trail. Well I decided to get brave today carried a good clip of speed into the bridge and treated it like a drop, as I landed on the wood I heard a noise come from the rear end of my bike followed by my rear wheel locking up then freeing for about a half turn then locking up again. When I finally got the bike stopped I looked at the damage. My rear derrailleur had cracked at the body and sucked into the spokes and mangled/broke 8 or 9 spokes on my driveside of my brand new TrailPimp. Luckily the rim/hub/cassette went unharmed and somehow my derrailleur hanger is still intact and shows no sign of any stress. Heres a couple pics of whats left of the SX5 and I already have an X.7 on the way and the bike will be in the shop Monday to get the wheel rebuilt. Hey at least I get some more new parts out of the ordeal, I guess it makes up for having to walk up a third of the mountain to do the download of shame down the lift.
holy crap!!atleast you didnt get hurt...i went over the handle bars once and the bike flipped end over end for ten feet and knocked the rear wheel right outta the frame...it bent my derailuer a little but it bent back with ease luckly i didnt break anything on the bike or myself...well glad your alright man....carbuncle-great to hear aluminum doesnt rust! im glad to that ive made some good choices component wise, its hard with all thats out there to buy....but thank god for the net so you can checkout everything!
i was thinking about getting one of those aniki's...i guess they will be coming out with 2007 models pretty soon so maybe i should wait
aniki guys, how heavy is the bike really? and how is that spinner ammo fork, is it really all that bad or can it be tuned a bit for performance
"He can make even a global summit meeting seem like a kegger." M. Dowd, NY Times, 19 July 2006
I just bought a Yakuza Aniki a week ago. The bike itself is pretty cool. It doesn't come with the best specs, but, hey I really can't fit XTR's on my budget and these pieces seem to work fine. When I got it it weighed 38 lbs, which is a bit heavy, but considering it comes with a through-axle fork and Deore-level pieces, it's logical.
Now, as of the Spinner Ammo, it loooks very solid, a bit on the heavy side too. I really wanted to try out something non RS, Manitou or Marzocchi. They are simple and somewhat tweakable (played with different oil for rebound damping already). They are very similar in the way they work to lots of modern forks (left leg spring, right leg damper). I'm still investigating if I got a bad fork or if all are the same, but the rebound spring of my fork sucks horribly: when I jump up any 3-inch tiny object, the fork decompresses totally noisily and the vibration is really bad. I've used Psylos a while now and they never do this. So, I'm still playing around with different rebound springs (not the main big 20-inchs pring but the 1.5-2 inch tiny rebound spring) and elastomers and oil till I find the right combination. A softer rebound spring seems to be working better.
Did anybody have a similar experience with their forks? Could you please email me at [email protected] with advice about how you fixed this bottoming-out problem? I already emailed spinner-usa.com, but they must be too busy to suggest anything.
Last edited by goncarrasco; 09-17-2006 at 11:07 PM.
i never had any problems with my stock fork...it was a manitou. weight wise now with all upgrades im pushin 40lbs. it does suck but after you ride it awile it gets a lot better. the bike is made to not kill a man budget but leaves awesome potentail for the bike to be upgraded when needed.
Yes my stock Spinner made the same noise. Its because it has no rebound controll causing the fork to rebound fast and violently, my bike salesmen said its called fork jack. I swapped out for a Marz Bomber Z1 FR3 and my problem was solved.
hey im not so happy with the fork also. if you look on spinners web site they spec out that fork for dirt jumping.
I know this one is a little off, but I just ordered a 05 Bakuto for $549.99 I cant wait to get it, though it was a battle between that and the 06 chimpera's that they have at my LBS. the hardest thing to think about was... the spinner VS a Splice. just the 20mm wheel would have been really nice, cant wait to get it though, I'll post pics when I get it.
Ibex bikes
2007 Ibex Trophy SS
2006 Jamis Komodo 3.0
2006 Ibex Zone FR-1
2004 Special-Ed P.2 A.1
sweet man send the pics
I do have a quick Q though, what dont you guys/gals like about the spinner ammo ? my friend sold me his original one off his chimpera. I bought it for $5.00 I havent ridden it yet, can someone tell me what its like ?
The spinner ammo was one of the first things I changed about the bike. Not that it was a horrible fork it worked like it was supposed to and was sufficient at sucking up some good sized bumps but it had next to no adjustability so you cant really dial it in. Also keep in mind the disc mounts on the ammo are made for 8" rotors only aka you only need the standard manitou->IS adaptor and a smaller rotor (to my knowledge) wont fit it. Also another not really problem but nuisance about the fork was with no rebound adjust the fork would spring back out after the front tire left the ground really fast making an obnoxious clanging noise as it reached full extension.
that's pretty cool though, first fork i've heard of that has mounts for 8 inch rotors....don't need an extra bracket, this is cool, like who runs 6 inch anyway....
the spinnner could probably be tweaked on the inside to make it run better...i like knowing how things work anyway....i'll have to keep my eyes open for getting one at a steal price
if anyone ever tweeks the spinner keep us informed. i would be interested. i'd do it myself but i know zero about forks. i have about a hundred other places id rather spend my loot on other than my fork right now
My guess? You'd be better off buying a last year's Jr T from one of the online big boys (Pricepoint, Wheelworld, Jenson) than trying to "tweak" a Spinner. Just my two cents. Previous-year models are a great deal, that's how I got my Jr, and it's going on two years without a problem. Next year it'll be replaced with an '06 888RC!
Hey there Yakuza riders:
As soon as I got the bike I tried to jump a sidewalk and CLUNK, the Spinner Ammo 1 decompressed totally and violently. I kept using the bike anyway (afraid that the whole dang thing would come apart after one of those CLUNKS). A couple of weeks later, all the oil out of the damper leg and a softer srping I got from a friend and now the thing travels faster, rebounds less (still CLUNKS, but less vibration) and I got the 6 inches of travel it's allegedly offering. It's still far from ideal, and I would really appreciate some more technical explanation.
The thickest I can think about it is that there need to be a real coupling of the main spring and the rebound spring, so if you're not riding the bike but rather in front of it, you could pull the fork down almost an inch and push down the handlebars some 2-3 inches. There needs to be no wiggle in between one spring and the other (this would be like the wheel freefalingl when you jump). I actually played with getting the complete schematics of RockShox and Spinner to be able to compare (as I said before, I've ridden a RockShox Psylo that leaked all oil out and with no rebound problems). Another think to keep in mind is spring strengths ratio. Since the decompression comes from the main spring, the rebound has to have a proportional strength. This is, if you have an XL frame with a X-hard spring, probably you want a hard reabound spring. But I have an XS frame with an X-soft spring, and the rebound spring is as hard as a rock. I switched to a softer rebound spring and I believe the thing's improved a lot. I am sure it doesn't bottom out on the rebound, so that I could use an even softer rebound spring.
Or maybe a softer main spring would push it less when decompressing. And that what I think/hope/expect from Spinner USA. I emailed them aeons ago and they responded 3 weeks later to tell me that they would send "a softer spring in 3 more weeks". I just hope that whatever they send it foxes the problem.
I've even thought about cutting a bit of the main spring and adding an inch of elastomer in the rebound shaft. This would technically reduce the travel of the fork, though. I don't think I'll do that.
To complete take apart this shock, unscrew the top right cap and get the oil out. Unscrew the top left cap and get the spring out. Compress completely (watch for spitting oil from the right leg). Unscrew the bottom screw and then insert a long tool with a 5 mm allen to unscrew the rebound spring / shaft from the left leg. The right leg has an opening that slows the flow of oil from down to up when compressing, dampening the travel of the fork. The way to tweak with this is with diferent viscosity oils. I went to a motorcycle shop and bought 2 bottles of the less viscous fork-oils they had, but they proved too dampening for the fork.
One more thing. I got pissed one day and bought a Psylo Tullio on ebay. When I got it I found that, yes, you need a 6-to-8inch adaptor for the front break (no biggie, 12-17 bucks). BUT (and this is a big BUT), the biggest problem I found was that apparently the hub setup that is supposed to rest on a thin rim (say 1mm wide) that the fork has on the inside of the legs was actually of a slightly smaller size. This is, the Psylo accepts outer bolts of the hub setup 25 mm diameter or smaller, and the hub that comes with the Yakuza Aniki is 26-27 mm in diameter. So now I'm thinking about either polishing the inside of the Psylos, trying to get smaller hub ends or (and I don't want to do this) just force-opening the fork legs a couple of mm to get the hub in.
cool write up...need more people here to talk about experimentations...the Spinner sounds like an interesting fork, sounds like a different design than manitou and marzocchi which i'm used to
do not under any circumstances force the wheel that came with your yakuz into that psylo fork...your asking for a catastrophic failure that could happen just hopping off a curb. do it right, be patient and get the correct wheel to fit that fork
this yakuza line is more interesting now, apparently IH was working with Spinner USA to have the fork spring rates match the size of the frame...that's pretty cool, XS frame gets a light spring ...up to XL frame that apparently gets heavy duty springs....how many of us had to buy new springs beacuse the ones that came on our bikes were ridiculously light
might have to get one of these yakuza's, they sure are inexpensive
Before I even had the bike I had IH shipping me a heavier spring, the 350lb spring was a joke.
Just to make it clear, the main spring I'm talking about is the fork's main spring, not the frame's spring. In theory both springs should be fitted to the size of the frame, which is related to the weight of the rider. And this should be standard procedure for all manufacturers. For example the Psylo I bought came from a M frame and it came with M springs (I wanted the soft springs, being myself merely 140 pounds).
Yeah, I'm not forcing that 20mm hub into the Psylo. I could polish some of it, but ... sounds like major surgery to me and don't want to damage the fork.
id say to be on the safe side dont rig anything to fit...your life or safety rests upon upgrading properly. i had to have a complete front wheel rebuild when i put the manitou sherman slider + fork on. and ive had no problems at all. but anyways just want to let all you yakuza riders know i participated in a downhill race yesterday but had a 4-5mile climb to get to the top(thought i was going to die for awhile lol), i placed a little above the middle of the feild of 40riders. Ive never rode the trail before and did 3 miles of downhill in 8min 28secs at around 22mph!!! the fastest time was 6min22secs and 2 riders are factory xc riders! and about 77%of the riders have been xc'ing for 10yrs or more!!! i loved it and will be going back for more....
I finally got my bike all straightened out and working properly again, my LBS shop dude said that the atomlabs trailpimp was the hardest rim hes ever had to true but it is exactly that now and the X.7 rear derailleur is much crisper than the SX5. Heres a short little vid from today at Hunter Mountain all on the Aniki except for one shot (the one near the river over the small bridge over the log) where I felt saucy and decided to take a run on my SS hardtail:
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Ok, I couldn't take it. I just ordered a '06 Aniki from Randall Scott.
It's probably more bike than I need but I'd rather have too much because I already have too little.
I'll post pics when I get it. BTW, how hard is it to set up in "dealer ready" condition? I've got a couple of bike-savvy friends who will probably help out. Thanks! TC
Dealer ready means u usually have to put on the handlebars, wheels, and pump up the tires. Sometimes you have to make small adjustments to the drivetrain/brakes. Thats how the 2 bikes my brother bought that came in dealer ready condition were at least. Pretty much all the tools you need are a set of allen wrenches, a bike pump, and maybey a small phillips head screwdriver if the limit screws on the derailleurs arent set properly (but they usually are).
Originally Posted by yakuzafreerider
id say to be on the safe side dont rig anything to fit...your life or safety rests upon upgrading properly. i had to have a complete front wheel rebuild when i put the manitou sherman slider + fork on. and ive had no problems at all. but anyways just want to let all you yakuza riders know i participated in a downhill race yesterday but had a 4-5mile climb to get to the top(thought i was going to die for awhile lol), i placed a little above the middle of the feild of 40riders. Ive never rode the trail before and did 3 miles of downhill in 8min 28secs at around 22mph!!! the fastest time was 6min22secs and 2 riders are factory xc riders! and about 77%of the riders have been xc'ing for 10yrs or more!!! i loved it and will be going back for more....
Hey, congrats! I wish there was more going on around here race-wise. The closest DH races to me are 6 hours away in Spokane. On the plus side, Whistler is five hours away and I just back from a killer couple of days up there, so that makes up for it. Gotta get the Yak into the shop stand for a complete tear-down now: pivots loosened up massively by the second day, and despite the fact that I checked the crank bolts on both sides after riding the first night, my left crank arm tore off coming down the hill leading to the step-up on Dirt Merchant. That was an eye-opener! Ripped a good eighth to a quarter of an inch off the end of the splines on the crank arm, ending the life of the stock cranks. Luckily I was able to jam the thing back on, tighten it up and get down to the bottom to end the day injury-free. Oh well, that's Whistler for you, hard on bike and body if you aren't careful.
thanks man!...well im kinda lucky this really wasnt a big race it was a local mountainbike club that gets together, rides some grueling xc type climbs then a timed downhill ...then a few beers...i had a great time and it really opened my eyes up to riding new places. this downhill run wasnt as rough as what im used to but the fact i was hitting higher speeds, and mix of wash outs and berms and killer jumps made for a exciting and adrenaline filled experiance that makes me want more.gotta question how often should i have the pivots checked? i ride alot of rocky downhills but till this past weekend i was hitting some serious high speed big air jumps really pushing my suspension to its limits. i just wanna make sure everything is the way its supposed to be because if i break my neck riding id rather it be from my own doing and not adjusting and taking care of my bike as i should. as for whistler...im planning a trip there next year-maybe we can hook up and hit it together.
My pivots are after a full summer using the bike about 2-3 times a week usually 2 of those days being on more of a freeride type of terrain are starting to develop a tiny bit of play even though everything is torqued to spec. So Im thinking of taking it into the shop to have the bushings replaced since my local mountain closed today and I have my SS that I use for my XC rides during the week.
Originally Posted by Eric Hoefer
Dealer ready means u usually have to put on the handlebars, wheels, and pump up the tires. Sometimes you have to make small adjustments to the drivetrain/brakes. Thats how the 2 bikes my brother bought that came in dealer ready condition were at least. Pretty much all the tools you need are a set of allen wrenches, a bike pump, and maybey a small phillips head screwdriver if the limit screws on the derailleurs arent set properly (but they usually are).
Ok, on the RS website, they're making it sound as if you would have to calibrate the brakes, check the derailleur tension, etc.--all things outside of my technical experience.
Is having the set up done for $60 by RS worth it? TC
Hey to all you yakuza riders. im glad to hear your good comments on the bike, as i am currently saving my money to buy one as my next bike. i'll post pictures and maybe some videos when i eventually get it.
Originally Posted by AA717driver
Ok, on the RS website, they're making it sound as if you would have to calibrate the brakes, check the derailleur tension, etc.--all things outside of my technical experience.
Is having the set up done for $60 by RS worth it? TC
If your unsure about setting it up properly then yes the $60 is well worth it it will save you lots of time and possible frustration.
I second that, then grab a copy of "Zinn and the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance," it'll save you hundreds of dollars in basic adjustments over the years. Yakuzafreerider, let me know when you are up there and I'll head up for sure! I check my pivot tightness before and after every serious ride! To check the pivots, grab the frame where the seat tube, seat post and top tube meet in one hand and the rear wheel in the other. Try to move the rear wheel back and forth at a 90 degree angle to forward, in other words try to shake the wheel back and forth in the frame. If it moves, even a little, you have play in either your pivots or the rear wheel and you want to snug the bolts up so you don't ovalize the pivots, break the bolts holding them together or harn the bearings. To tighten the pivots grab an allen/hex key and go around the pivot bolts and check to see if they are tight, note that sometimes they have another bolt on the other side that you will need a second allen key to hold while you tighten. If after that is done you still have side-to-side play then you're rear wheel bearings should be checked and tightened. I just had to do this on the Yakuza Waka-Gashira that I had (until I sold it yesterday), after a year of riding the rear wheel was getting wobbly. If you aren't familiar with the procedure for that, I'd recommend a mechanic do it for you as it's dirty and fairly involved to repack a hub.
Last edited by carbuncle; 10-03-2006 at 06:54 AM.
From my house, I can almost see the UPS warehouse where my Aniki sits tonight. Supposed to be here Monday. I hope I've taken my last (forced) ride on my rigid Trek...
I'll post some porn when it arrives. I'll try to be creative. TC
P.S.--From what I've read, with me weighing 205, the stock rear spring won't cut it. Am I correct?
sorry it took a while. its not an aniki, but its a yakuza series
just a few more
looks like a marz z150, you looking to move it?
Nice bike, bro. I used to have a Waka-Gashira: same frame, very fun on the jumps and drops.
i love the pictures guys of all the yakuza'a aniki's or other iron horse line up...there great bikes. keep the pictures and posts coming! l8r travis
I finally got it and got a chance to ride. I didn't bottom out but I took it easy. I'll try to ride more this weekend. Pics to follow. TC
Glad to hear you had fun AA717driver! It really is a good bang for its buck.
On another note Ive been wondering I just noticed it on Todds Yakuza and its on my aniki as well what does the "893" painted on the bottom of the bike stand for?
I believe it's the designation for the tubing used to build the frame.
No problem climbing short hills (local trail goes up and down a 15-20 ft. high levee). I was riding an old Trek 3500 that probably weighed the same as the Aniki. I had gotten all paranoid about the weight issue. I guess "real men" don't worry about that stuff...
So, I just purchased a Yakuza Aniki from Randall Scott and have been riding it around for about three days now. My Forks work magically, but my rear suspension bottomed out today. Any suggestions on a better shock/crank?
Last edited by YakuzaCRUZ; 10-13-2006 at 10:22 PM.
moderate climbing with the aniki isnt that bad....but when you have sharp uphill climbs going from 2000 to 3500ft in less than 2 miles its a pig. but short moderate to easy climbs really arent that bad with it. its really not a big xc bike...i took it on an 18mile loop once with some big increases in elevations-needless to say it wont happen again. the bike is great for downhill and freeride stuff though...thats when the bike true meaning shows. for a low budget bike to start on its great-even better is the upgradabilityof the bike as you progress in skill. if you have any ?s let me know.
Originally Posted by YakuzaCRUZ
So, I just purchased a Yakuza Aniki from Randall Scott and have been riding it around for about three days now. My Forks work magically, but my rear suspension bottomed out today. Any suggestions on a better shock/crank?
Send an email to ironhorse or give them a call they will ship you a heavier spring for free. All you have to do is tell them what bike you have your weight, and address then magically like a week later a new spring shows up in the mail.
I'm not sure on the phone number but you can email them at [email protected]
well ironhorse will ship a heavier spring to you free of charge...as far as shock and crank well what riding style do you have yakuzacruz? depending on downhill, freeride, agressive xc there are different components out there for each. im going strictly downhill now so some of my components are getting changed out now. i have a raceface evolve ss crank right now that works great but i need a beefer crankset so im going with the new truvativ OCT cranset...shockwise im going to a 9 x 2.75 manitou swinger 6 coil shock 7"travel setup , brakes and rims, tires too getting switched out to the new avid code disc brakes and bontrager wheelsets.... still looking for tires all to gear up for racing downhill next year. learn everything bout your bikes dimension and in your riding style and shop from there.
My riding style is Downhill/freeride. I was thinking about getting the Manitou Triple Ti Intrinsic as well as the Swinger coil SPV 6 way (maybe just the 4 way for now, 6 is a little pricy). I sent IH an email last night about the shocks.
On another note I am here in santa cruz and go riding around UCSC alot, so if there is anyone here who wants to ride with me send me a message.
Action photos and bike photos soon.
have any of you guys had problems with the brakes rubbing and making a jinglng noise? I think i might have found the problem in my front hub, which wobles side to side if i push on it. I seems like the bearings a play/slop in the hub. If anyone knows about this, hit me up.
yakuzacruz, great choices on upgrades -your heading in the right direction with them- get the singer 6 it may be pricey but worth it....rockhopper, my stock front disc break rubs all the time-even after i replaced the front hub, my disc has a slight bend in it so when i switch out to the avid code im sure it will fix all problems...but if your hub wobbles check the tightness of the skewer that hold the wheel on, or better yet take it to a bike shop and let them check it out the wheel may need to be trued....
Ohh did u ppl noe tat Yakuza ment Japanese gangster and Aniki means big bro or leader XD
Originally Posted by rockHopper09
have any of you guys had problems with the brakes rubbing and making a jinglng noise? I think i might have found the problem in my front hub, which wobles side to side if i push on it. I seems like the bearings a play/slop in the hub. If anyone knows about this, hit me up.
You just need to have your hub tightened up, any shop can do it for you. Don't ride around on it for too long or you'll carve out the races and damage the hub.
knew yakuza meant gangster or something like a japanese mafia...didnt know what aniki meant but its cool though...thanks for the info t
how do you tighten the hub?
Originally Posted by Eric Hoefer
Hey I got one too! The fork on tagnasty's bike is the stock Spinner Ammo that comes on the bike for this season. Mines pretty stock except I upgraded the rear wheel to an atomlabs trailpimp with DT champion spokes and an XT hub and I upgraded the brake levers to></object>
cool video
the trick is ENJOYING YOUR LIFE EACH DAY, don't waste them away wishing for better days
heres a recent picture of my aniki from my myspace page My URL
check it out sometime guys...
I just got an aniki recently and i am looking to replace the fork and rear shock. Im probably getting a vanilla, but i have no idea what fork to get.
what are you guys riding, single/double crown, spring/air?
im only 14 so i cant afford much.
rockhopper09- well im riding on a triple crown manitou sherman slider +spv 170mm fork, which I found new for $275 on ebay...and the rear coil shock is stock besides the fact iron horse sent me a heavier spring. make a note when you upgrade your fork you may have to change out your front hub to to be compatible with the fork. shop around before you buy, especially if your $$$ is limited. if you have anymore ?'s let me know ill answer them the best that i can. l8r t
So this is what the Aniki has in the way of rear shock 9 x 2.75 with 23mmx8mm hardware. Is there anyone who can tell me a few shocks that have those specs (preferably coil but it matters not)?
well the aniki is a 5inch travel stock....the 9 x 2.75 is for 7inches of rear travel. when you order the rear suspension you will be give the option to purchase what size coil/weight and shock....
I meant more like what brand/model, but that was helpful too! Thanks.
well as far as suspensions go... i like manitou-the metal r, swinger-3,4,6 are all great rear shocks, the theres the fox vanilla line and so on...really i stick to the manufacturer i like manitou-but go to bikeparts.com check out there rear suspensions, there not the low cost stuff but find what you like and search the net for a better deal. thats what i do.
i was just wantin to no, would a marzocchi jr T or a marzocchi drop off triple be better for an aniki?
Originally Posted by Swandel
i was just wantin to no, would a marzocchi jr T or a marzocchi drop off triple be better for an aniki?
not really. you would probably be better off getting a boxxer or something like a sherman slider. because for one they're not nearly as tall. but two I believe the dropoff triple and the Jr T share the SSVF dampening, wich totally sucks. I have an old 02 boxxer and it fits alright on my bakuto, so does the kingpin I have as well. but marz forks are jenerally just a little too big. if you are stuck onto something like a dropoff, get the single crown version. if you need 170mm of travel, seriously, get a kingpin, ride it till it brakes, then send it into manitou and they'll give you a 06/07 Kingpin for free. I just think that in bolth of those forks, the dampening really kinda sucks, fluid flow might be a better choice. even if you wanted go stance flow with the 110-150mm travel adjustment.
manitou or marzocchi....eeemmm never ran a marzocchi before but i have read many reviews on both manitou and marzocchi-some like them some dont. all i can say is my sherman slider + has worked perfect and feels right on my bike for me. and you can get one at jenson.com for around $300...now if you wanna a serious race fork and have lots of cash go for the boxxer-i wouldnt bother with the manitou kingpin get a slider.
thanx for the tips there. i think im gonna go for the slider actually, it seems to be a good fork, and i have checked a few sites just there. thanx for the advice guys
Last edited by Swandel; 10-17-2006 at 02:11 PM.
So i was riding today and i go over a 2 foot jump and my rear derailleur breaks off completely. Ive written ironhorse about it but man this sucks I was thinking about maybe getting a different one, or asking IH for a stronger one. Advice?
badnews man...i dont know if warranties apply to stuff broken by riding except the frame-they may....ive wrecked mine a few times-once the bike fliped end over end for bout 20feet down a rocky section when i went over the bars-rear wheel ripped out completely from the frame!!!!but didnt break a thing. if you but another rear deraillleur go with a shimano xt or go with sram x-0 components you have to stick to one manufacter when it comes to shifter and drivetrain components...
Yeah. For all of the owners of the Aniki, the company will not give you a replacement derailleur. You have to go to the place you purchased the bike and ask them to ask IH to send you a new one. Apparently they dont "deal" with customers (this is how most companies are but just thought id give the heads up. I am going with the SRAM X.9. I found shifters and rear derailleur for $129. http://www.pricepoint.com/detail.htm...d=135%20SRAX93
In other news
The Sherman Slider looks good and is very affordable. I found one at the following website for $279.95. http://www.greenfishsports.com/index...ROD&ProdID=867
Are there any other models I should look up (the sherman looks good because it is on the less expensive side)?
Pictures soon and once again, if there are any folks in or near the Santa Cruz area who want to ride, send me an email at [email protected]. Thanks!
You should take a look for '04 and '05 Marzocchi Jr T's as well, great bargains at the online spots (check Jenson, Cambria, Pricepoint and Wheelworld) and my '04 was a great replacement for the stock manitou on the '05 on the Kumicho I have. As for your customer service experience, just go through a local retailer: IH's CS is horrible to customers, I've experienced it firsthand and I know several people in the business who have affirmed this as well. Let your shop, or any shop that deals IH, deal with it for you.
Kumicho update: Saint Cranks installed this evening! So sweet! Like the tubular steel Syncros cranks of old the Saints are so stiff it's like standing on a concrete floor. Ride report after the shuttle day at Blackrock Saturday ( http://brmba.org/ )
Lastly, revisiting the pivot play issue: check your rig for play by grabbing the seatpost/seatube junction in one hand and the rear wheel in the other and try to move the rear wheel back and forth in the frame. If you have play, any play, tighten all of your pivot bolts or take it to your dealer to do it for you. I had a little bit of play in the rear, but to fix it I would have had to pull the bottom bracket to get behind the SRS chainguide to get at the main pivot bolt on the Kumicho. I was lazy all summer, kept everything but the one pivot that matters tight, and just paid a shop $72 for a new ($5) bearing and and two hour's worth of work to get the race from the disintegrated non-drive-side main pivot bearing out of the frame and press the new bearing in. THIS IS MY FAULT FOR BEING LAZY, and it could have resulted in a broken frame right when I am really getting to love my Kumicho. Don't be a pud, monitor your suspension and keep that sh!t tight!
Last edited by carbuncle; 10-20-2006 at 12:00 AM.
carbuncles right check your stuff out after every ride...i do this when cleaning-degreasing-lubricating my bike...it helps you get to know your bike, you can spot damages to any part of you bike while performing a must needed maintanence on your investment which is one your life, and your bike. as far as buying anything for your rig, always check the reviews of the product. you dont wanna buy junk guys.
Hey Guys Im plannin to put 2006 wc boxxers and 06 dhx 5s on my aniki so excited ... gona get them on saturday...Im put pics up for sure
The Aniki sounds pretty dope! Probly gonna be getting myself one within a few weeks.
Planned upgrades (as can be aforded):
Fork: Probly go with the sherman slider
Rear Shock: Probly a Vinilla off eBay or sumthin like that, dont wanna shell outta shitload of cash
Breaks: Probly gonna go with hydrolics eventualy, but maybe not.
Probly going to take the 2nd gear off in the front to save on a little weight, and for simplicitys sake. may swap pedals/cranks out eventualy for something lighter.
I'll post some bike prono as soon aas i get it. no poser shots tho, all hardcore action.
lets see more action shots guys looking good
I will as soon as my bike is out of the shop and i have a decent day to go. been off my bike for 2 weeks. feels like its been a month
So, after a month my bike is finally riding fit. All i needed was a rear derailleur and a rear derailleur hanger. And all that took 1 month and $180. UGH. So a lesson well learned (Check your bike after every ride, and fix it yourself)
that being said, i have been doing some research towards forks. It looks like I shall go with these http://www.greenfishsports.com/index...OD&ProdID=1218
(Marzocchi Bomber 888RC. 2005)
As for the shock mabye a 4-way swinger or 3-way (Manitiou).
Suggestions on wheels. I am looking for an all around type, considering I wont be going too hardcore yet. Thanks and goodluck!
Azonic Outlaws are an option a lot of people seem to like for aftermarket, affordable FR/DH wheels. If you are putting an 888 on your rig, best to go with a pair of 36 hole wheels that you can grow into, rather than an all-mountain set-up that you will always be pushing the envelope on. The Outlaws are the same wheelset as the Transition and Bombshell branded Revolutions, by the way, but I think the Outlaws are the only ones that come with the axle conversion kits to run standard or thru-axles on both ends.
Hi everyone,
I just found this thread and wanted to add some comments regarding my Iron Horse bike. I have a North Face Talkeetna which is an Aniki in disguise (So I guess i'm like a step brother). I bought the frame on Ebay and built it up from scratch. I have plenty of experience from putting this bike together piece by piece and replacing broken parts in the last year, so feel free to ask me any questions. I may have some advice or even
spare parts that can help keep you guys riding.
I have set my Yakuza up with a Manitou Sherman Breakout (6") on the front and a Manitou Swinger 6-Way on the rear 9.00" x 2.75"). I think anyone that is running the X-Fusion rear shock is doing this bike an injustice. The stock shock limits the suspension travel to 5", which is a little short for any type of stunt or freeriding. IH must have done
this on these bikes to keep costs down but it was not a very good idea.
I still have the X-Fusion shock that came stock on the frame, if someone broke theirs
and needs one to keep riding.
As far as the broken SRAM deraillleur pictures posted earlier, I have destroyed three X7
units this summer alone. Altough the SRAM parts work great and are light weight, they seem to snap quite easily. If your chain gets stock in the pulleys or behind the cassette, you can snap the derailleur or the hanger or both.
I have just purchased a set of Saint wheels (with Mavic 325s) and the axle mount
Saint derailleur to try to eliminate these issues.
The guys at Iron Horse are real helpful and hooked me up with free or cheap parts when needed.
I don't know much about the Spinner fork but I would ride them until they braek and then
upgrade. The longer you wait to upgrade the better fork you will get for your money.
I would not recommend a Manitou Nixon for this frame. I have the Nixon Platinum on
my Jamis XLT and it works great but would not be a great match to the 7" travel rear
end and 38lb ride. The Nixons have a really low crown height and would make the
steering even steeper on a frame that is almost too steep to start with.
A seven inch travel fork would probably be ideal for this frame but obviously an expensive upgade. A Sherman Slider or Breakout Plus, 66, 888, Drop-Off or Fox 36-40 would make more sense. The Shermans are pretty cheap on Ebay and the web and I have had great luck with mine. Single pivot bikes like the Aniki, Bullit, and Gemini work really well with Platform type suspensions, like the SPV in many Manitou products.
I just had to ask what type of hanger and derailleur did you shop intall that cost $ 180.00?
Is there something special that was done? If not, you may want to grab a wrech and learn
how to fix these things yourself. It is not uncommon to break the hanger and the derailleur
off on these bikes especially if it is a SRAM product.
I basicaly got ripped off.
The derailleur was a SRAM X9 and the hangar was some ironhorse thingy. I could have purchased the X9 with shifters for $120, but my knowledge of the bike was limited at that point, so i wanted to have the shop see if there was anything else wrong with it. I have purchased do-it yourself and other related books to help better understand the mechanics. The only thing I lack is a good set of tools.
So the X9 was $100 and the tune up was $60. The hangar cost $20. For that much I could have purchased a 2005 Swinger 3-way .... I am actually thinking about getting the 6-eay though.
Dear YakuzaCRUZ,
You should shop on Ebay or the web, an X9 costs $ 60.00 and learning to fix your bike can be very rewarding.
I have a 6-way currently on my Yakuza but I think a 4-way would be fine also.
The 3-Way does not offer the SPV adjustment which is nice for different set-up based
on the riding terrain.The 6-way has both High and Low speed adjustments which may
be more than most of us need.
You will need to get reducers for the Swinger as the X-Fusion reducers are close but not perfect (I used them for awhile until I got the correct ones from Manitou). Manitou part
# 85-6294 (8.0mm x 23mm)
Good luck,
This post has a lot of views!
Hey guys,
Been considering this bike. Is this a good bike for weekend trail riding? I'm not too sure on all of the "free ride, cross country" etc terms. I just want to go out with the guys and ride trails. Just want to make sure I get the right bike. I've read its heavy, but I'm not sure if that'as a big deal to the type of riding I'll be doing.
Heres mine, 05 aniki w/ drop off triples will have dhx 5.0 next week
bad pics if they come up but they are from downieville
Originally Posted by YakuzaCRUZ
I basicaly got ripped off.
The derailleur was a SRAM X9 and the hangar was some ironhorse thingy. I could have purchased the X9 with shifters for $120, but my knowledge of the bike was limited at that point, so i wanted to have the shop see if there was anything else wrong with it. I have purchased do-it yourself and other related books to help better understand the mechanics. The only thing I lack is a good set of tools.
So the X9 was $100 and the tune up was $60. The hangar cost $20. For that much I could have purchased a 2005 Swinger 3-way .... I am actually thinking about getting the 6-eay though.
I have used this place twice and they are great: http://derailleurhanger.com/ironhorse.htm
I have two questions
1. How do you get the front wheel off.
2. I am trying to adjust my brakes.
Here is how I do it (the brakes are the stock 8" hayes that come with the bike).
Loosen the bolts that hold the brake to the adapter. Tighten the brake lever and tie it in pulled position. Retighten the bolts and then untie the lever.
My back brake is constantly rubbing against the right caliper (if you are looking at the bike upside down and from the back).
My front brake makes noise then no noise repeatedly (as in, when you spin the wheel certain parts of the disc will hit the calipers). The disc isnt bent though (if it is, then it is only slightly)
The only times I have crash are when i have been turning too tightly and slid to the ground rather than topple over.
If anyone has any suggestions let me know. Also, I want to start looking at some better brakes, any suggestions?
my brakes rub when i turn and make a jangling noise. Adjusting the calipher didnt fix it. I had the hubs tightened, but that didnt fix it either. I think the problem is the hubs. They arent too high quality and have some play/slop which causes the disks to shift and hit the brake pads.
maybe the caliper needs to be centered by eyeball...sometimes the pistons don't move at the same rate and that may cause some off centeredness..i've got hayes on one of my bikes, when they are set up good, they are sweet brakes
The brake "jangling" noise comes from flex. The front hub isnt too great and flexes a bit side to side. My rear used to do it as well but when I replaced the rear wheel with an atomlabs trailpimp the jangling stopped in the rear.
Yakuza Cruz: Try this with your brakes. The inside of each caliper (side closest to the spokes) has a flat bolt with an allen key hole in it. You can move the inner brake pad in and out by tightening and loosening this bolt. To reduce your problem of rubbing move the inner brake pad as close to the rotor as you can without it rubbing. Then adjust the cable side brake pad by adjusting either the barrel adjuster (located where you cable meets your brake lever there is a 2 peice screw there) the further in the barrel adjuster is on the lever the further away from the rotor the brake pad is. The further out from the lever the barrel adjuster is the closer it will bring the pad to the rotor. For your situation it seems like you need to buy more room with the cable side pad so you would have to move the barrel adjuster in a bit. If you cant get enough room from moving the barrel adjuster in/ it is already in all the way then you have to let out some cable. You can do this by loosening the bolt that the cable connects to on the caliper and letting out a tiny amount of cable and testing it.
Sorry if I dumbed this down so much, its not meant to be an insult to your bike know-how, I figured I would explain it as easily as possible since I dont know how much bike fixing knowledge you have.
Originally Posted by amheck
Hey guys,
Been considering this bike. Is this a good bike for weekend trail riding? I'm not too sure on all of the "free ride, cross country" etc terms. I just want to go out with the guys and ride trails. Just want to make sure I get the right bike. I've read its heavy, but I'm not sure if that'as a big deal to the type of riding I'll be doing.
Stock, yeas. just get the heavier spring for the rear shok.
so I can gather that the lot of Aniki riders like their bikes. I ask because I am looking into getting one for Christmas. I would love to get something a little nicer like a 7 point 3 but money is tight. (got to love the military for that). Thank you for every one who has posted. It has proved to be good reading/research.
You explained wonderfuly and answered the question better than anyone has. Your suggestion would have worked but I lack the ammount of extra cable that would allow the outside caliper to stop rubbing which sucks. My bike mechanic knowledge is small. I know enough to talk about it but not enough to know how to fix it (oh the irony). So i suppose i should buy a longer length of wire and see if that works?
Also, how do you get the front tire off of the Spinner fork?
look at the axleand find two of the right size allen keys.stick one in each hole in the axle and turn counter clockwise.
hope this helps.
Chris is right but Ill explain it a bit more simply.
On the spinner theres two bolts at the bottom of each fork leg called pinch bolts. Loosen these four bolts (but do not remove them completely) then take 2 allen wrenches that fit the allen holes on the outsides of the axle of the wheel and spin them both counter clockwise to their respected orientations, aka think of unscrewing a nut off of a bolt. one (or both) of the ends of the axle will unscrew completely. I find its easiest to unscrew only one end, if both un screw then just screw one end back in by hand this makes for a nice spot to hold on to. Once the pinch bolts and one end of the axle are removed you should be able to slide it out and the wheel should drop right out of the fork.
For putting the wheel back on line up the wheels hub with the axle holes of the fork and slide the axle back in. Then screw on the other end of the axle and tighten it down. Once the axle is tight its onto the pinch bolts. Tighten each pinch bolt on the legs till its just about to get tight and then go a half turn tighter. ***DO NOT*** over tighten your pinch bolts it can cause irreversible damage to the lowers of your fork by cracking the the lower leg rendering the pinch bolts useless.
Long shot out in YellowHills. More soon i hope.
And uh, you said something about more simply?
Originally Posted by =ChrisB=
And uh, you said something about more simply?
Sweet shot!
Step by step brake down is what I meant by simply, just filling in the gaps that could have confused someone whos not familiar with working on a bike.
Props to srclimb for that shot.
And yea I guess i kinda didnt give a noob friendly description.
Jump bi!ch JUMP!
sweet shot man...my aniki getting upgrades as we speak...so hopefully soon i myself will have some new photos up soon...l8r
What would those be?
can anyone give me the eye to eye measurements on the aniki's stock rear shock? thanks.
9" eye to eye with a 2.5" stroke. If you get a shock thats 9" eye to eye with a 2.75" stroke you can up the travel in the rear of the bike to 7"
On another note I havent ridden my Aniki in over a month. Ive been riding my rigid SS on some more XC trails recently since my mountains have closed down for the season and are getting ready for winter.
9 x 2.75 -coil shock...any more ?s let me know t
well I placed my order my aniki today from rs cycle should be here in a few weeks. i have heard a alot of people talk about getting a heavier spring for the rear shock. what weight should i get? i am between 185-195 lbs. though i am hoping to lose some weight as soon as my wife pops out our second rug rat!
Originally Posted by yakuzafreerider
9 x 2.75 -coil shock...any more ?s let me know t
thanks, and yes i have one more question, if i get an 8.75x2.75 5th element for my aniki, will i be able to install it effectively? will it mess with the geo?
Originally Posted by ecfiffer05
well I placed my order my aniki today from rs cycle should be here in a few weeks. i have heard a alot of people talk about getting a heavier spring for the rear shock. what weight should i get? i am between 185-195 lbs. though i am hoping to lose some weight as soon as my wife pops out our second rug rat!
get the 700 or 650.
you can get a better spring for your weight simply by contacting iron horse customer service by email..-ecfiffer05-
no do not get that coil shock-a 8.75x2.75 will not work-your eye to eye must be 9" any less will cause the rear triangle of the frame to make contact with the main part of the frame-now i have yet to know if anyone has every broke a iron horse frame but im sure that putting the incorrect size coil shock for this bike would be pushing your luck with frame warranty issues-and safety for yourself. i saw a 5th element 9x2.75 on ebay a week ago that sold for $135 new-look for a buy like that...im putting a manitou metal r or swinger 6 -9x2.75 on my bike soon. if you have any doubts on this issue contact ironhorse customer service...it may take a week to get a response but its better safe than sorry bro- t
alright, thanks a bunch yakuzaFR, i'll look for a buy, the only reason i ask is because santa cruz is having their 99 dollar shock sale, and you can get swingers and 5ths for 99 bucks apiece, but i think they only come in 8.75 eye to eye.
Originally Posted by yakuzafreerider
you can get a better spring for your weight simply by contacting iron horse customer service by email..-ecfiffer05-
is there anything that i should make sure to say in my email/call to them? aside from that i'm a fat ass and need a heavier spring?
Originally Posted by ecfiffer05
is there anything that i should make sure to say in my email/call to them? aside from that i'm a fat ass and need a heavier spring?
Nah just say you purchased an aniki and give them your weight and then a week or so later you will recieve a little box in the mail with a new heavier spring.
thanks i just shot them a note asking for a heavier spring. i will hopefuly hear back form them next week.
any one thought of getting a Romic shock for the aniki? I was looking at their site and they have one in 9x2.75. I has the chace to ride a preston fr with one and it kicked ass. that might be the first upgrade for my aniki!
Anyone realised that the Spinner Amo is a DJ fork?
ive heard good things about Romic shocks...anything upgraded on the aniki is a good thing. my opinion of the aniki hasnt changed...its definatley a great starter bike, and be upgraded completely as your skills progress in your riding. l8r t
does anyone know if the rockshox pro deluxe with the blackbox is any good?
quick question how long did it take for you to get your aniki from randall scott?
3 days from Colorado to California.
does anyone know if the Rockshox Pro deluxe with the black box upgrade is any good?
Not sure...
Originally Posted by =ChrisB=
Anyone realised that the Spinner Amo is a DJ fork?
A 6" travel DJ fork? What are you talking about?
MRP - VP of Business Development
Pivot Cycles - Team Rider
Chris B is correct the spinner is a DJ fork see link below.
Yea, and its not six inches, its five. spinner i think actualy makes the longest travel "DJ" fort.
you know one would think to put a freeride fork on a freeride bike, not a dj fork on a freeride bike. I noticed that the AMMO was a DJ a while ago, just never thought about it that much. Though I thought that the AMMO was 150 MM travel. Is that not true?
Yes it is. BUT, it is designed to take the kind of abuse dirt jumping dishes out, not freeriding. it wont break, but it doesnt eat up bunps like a FR fork would.
Originally Posted by yakuzafreerider
i have yet to know if anyone has every broke a iron horse frame
I broke the chainstay on my SGS after three weekends straight in bike parks.
Why would you ever make a fork with 150mm of travel and say it is a dirt jump fork? That is like calling the Rock Shox Totem an XC fork. Dirt jump forks are supposed to be burly enough to handle hard landings etc. But traditionally they are short travel as not to rake out the head angle of a bike making it difficult to manuver. Spinner may say it is a DJ fork, but that is because they are Spinner. BTW, I'm just saying. No hating.
Well have you ever ridden one? it is a DJ fork. I dont know or care why they make it with so much travel, but they do.
woot woot mine was shipped yesterday!
Whoot! Awesome dude, hope you like it!
Originally Posted by =ChrisB=
Yea, and its not six inches, its five. spinner i think actualy makes the longest travel "DJ" fort.
No it is 6" of travel on the spinner, it has 150mm of travel not 130mm which would be roughly 5 inches.
150mm=5.9" so it is pretty much 6" of travel
... Damn... I was told it was 5 inches. Well then thats even crazyer. O well, it still needs to be changed for a FR fork.
update: it will be here on wednesday. too bad ups delivers to my house at like 5 at night when it is getting dark :-(
i have a question: so the aniki comes able to shift into a third gear in the front where the cranks are, yet the spot where the third gear is is taken up by a bashguard. Say i want a gear here instead of the bashguard, can i just get another chainring and bolt it on? if so what size? and if not, how can i get a third gear?
Talk to your LBS about this... I dont think you can have a BG and a third ring tho... I just disabled my big ring, didnt need it. took the derailur and shifter off... I like it more.
You can replace the bashguard with a 44 tooth outer ring with a 104mm BCD. Or, you can get an outer ring and a Heim Super D bash guard.
alright thanks, would this bashguard work with the three ring setup too?
by the way, i ordered this: http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/133...ring-4-Arm.htm
and these for my christmas present to myself (i tacoed the dual duty's when i went off a 9 stair to flat concrete with low tire pressure, oops) : http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/154...t-Switchit.htm
Berrecloth's wheels, aww yeah!
well mine showed up yesterday. I was able to get it together and kind of tweak it. I know that the rear shock is a most on the upgrade list! I rode it in to work and it was just as easy as my old POS hardtail! Oh and IH is sending off a 550lbs spring. And the question of a bashring and third ring. I have not seen that in a long time. Rock Rings made one but I dont know if they are still around. That was back in the mid/late 90's
should i? http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/13422-315_ROCBT4-3-Parts-59-Forks/Accessories/Rockshox-Boxxer-Team-Suspension-Fork-'04-offerIN050BB1.htm?zmam=3075515&zmas=1&zmac=20&zmap =13422
well here is my son sittin on the best seat in the house!!!!
Hawhaw! too bad they dont make a little kids freeride bike.... now THEREs an idea!
I know the issue of brake rub has been brought up... any other insight for me? I have tried adjusting the inside pad with the set screw and adjusting the cable side as well. it seems that for the wheel to stop like the back one i have to live with the rub. unless i get some washers to move the whole caliper in. also those who got their bikes from randall scott where your wheels out of true? mine are a little and i think the front has a flat spot!!! grgrgrgrgrrrrr thats it i am getting outlaws!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
well here is a little tip for those who are still having front bake rub. get some washers and sandwitch them in between the caliper and the mount. it moved the brake over far engh to allow me to adjust both sides so that there is no pad rub and can still bring it to a screaming hault! still pissed about the wheel thouh.. like i said its upgrade to outlaws when money allows... but the rear shock and the fork are going to be the first to go...
dude post up some pics of your brake mod for those of us who have no imagination.
Wich is all of you?
so i bought and installed the Salsa 46 tooth chainring which is pushing it, but surprisingly is responsive and shifts very well, and most importantly(pun intended), perfectly achieves the desired look. i am still confronting the issue of a bashguard.
aaronl828- good look looking for a bashring that will work with all three rings. i honestly don't think there is anying out there any more. now if you wanted a chain guide for all three rings there is the hemi 3 its like 40 bucks out of CBO right now. not bad considering its the only one on the market that i have seen that is for all three rings. i would like to get one when i can.
also a 9.0x2.75 5th element is in the mail, and i'll buy a totem next christmas when they're on discount.
Hi guys new to this forum, first post
I recently purchase my first free ride Iron Horse Yakuza Aniki 2006 from Randall Scott. Im very excited to hear good stuff about this bike. I should be getting this next week Monday according to ups.
My first question is I weigh 180 lbs 57 and wondering if the stock rear spring will be sufficient for me. I will post some picture
... call IH. Ask them to send you the 700 lb spring.
You should have a good time riding this awesome bike, The rear shock on the Aniki will limit your travel to 5" but it should handle your weight. It is functional in stock form but I would start saving immediately to upgrade the rear shock. You'll need a 9.00" x 2.75" shock, like a Manitou Swinger Coil or a Manitou Metel (cheaper). This will make the
bike's suspension function more like that of a Gemini or Bullit ($2000.00 bikes).
I also ran a 8.75" x 2.75" shock for a while and it felt fine. You can get a shock on ebay for under $100.00 and order the correct reducers from your local shop (I have the part numbers if needed). The reducers from the stock shock (X-Fusion) can be used but they are not a perfect fit.
[URL="http://http://cgi.ebay.com/MANITOU-SWINGER-4-WAY-SHOCK-8-75-inches-NEW_W0QQitemZ170060942204QQihZ007QQcategoryZ58084Q QrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem"]
Originally Posted by nuspeed88
Hi guys new to this forum, first post
I recently purchase my first free ride Iron Horse Yakuza Aniki 2006 from Randall Scott. Im very excited to hear good stuff about this bike. I should be getting this next week Monday according to ups.
My first question is I weigh 180 lbs 57 and wondering if the stock rear spring will be sufficient for me. I will post some picture
Good luck getting a 700lbs spring. I told them that I was 190lbs and I got a 550lbs spring. It is actually good weight for me. But I will upgrade to a better rear shock when money comes.
jwpeltier- running the 8.75"x2.75" wouldn't that make the head angle enven slacker? I have been looking at ebay for 9x2.75 but they are hard to come by, but 8.75x2.75" are almost a dime a dozen
Just a comment, following on the topic of the rear shock springs and how to get one right for you.
I used to ride a bike with a Romic D, and, this X-Fusion works but feels very basic compared to it. At the same time, there isn't anything wrong with it, other that the worng spring rate.
When I bought my Yakuza Anike Small (I'm 5' 7" and weigh 145 lbs) it came with a 350 lbs spring which was totally wrong. I would bottom out riding down the sidewalk. Everybody says it was easy to get a new spring, but it wasn't too easy for me. I emailed IronHorse and they sent me a spring, a month later. They said the only spring they had was a 650, which was NOT OK for me, as I would get a total of 2 inches of wheel travel out of the 5 possible with the 2.5 inches of shock travel. Disappointed, I emailed X-Fusion and they sent me a 550 x 2.80, after 3 more weeks. This spring works fine, but honestly I would prefer a 500 to get the full 5 inches of travel.
While waiting for these springs to arrive on the mail (as I thought sincerely they would never arrive after more than 7 weeks!) I bought a Fox 500 x 2.80 spring which is a tiny bit too long for this X-Fusion shock. ANYBODY INTERESTED ??? Email me at [email protected] if interested.
Last week I let a new Romic D 8.75 go on ebay because I took my ruler and figured that with the extra 0.25 of travel, and with the 0.25 the 8.75 starts with (compared with the original 9.00) the rear tire would rub the seatpost when bottoming out. I read something about it here, but I figured seeing is beleiving. And that is with a sort-of skinny 2.4 tire I have. I just bought 2.7 tires and they would make for a pretty crappy landing of a big jump, if they were to stop completely and rub against the seatpost.
Anyway, here's my grain of experience. Good luck finding the right rear shock!
well I havent got my bike yet it should be here monday. do you guys think I can e-mail IronHorse for a spring. of I have to wait and get my serial number on my bike first to be able to get one.
Its been 6 years since i went out DH so its been awhile. I hope this will be a good start for me. im saving up money to get a better stuff soon but for now. ill try to have fun on what i got.
Nuspeed88: Ironhorse shipped me a spring without needing a serial number and I got it in about a week. I found it was more efficient to get a hold of them via phone as well.
hey thanks. i tried to e-mail them today but i have no luck getting their phone number.
dose any one know?
Please call Iron Horse customer service at 800-645-5477 or email [email protected].
Hey guys its been awhile since i really posted anything...so ill give you all a quick update on my aniki. well my sram x-9 shifter and x-9 super short carbon rear derailuer came in a week ago, now im deciding on what crankset to choose from- im sticking with truvativ components my first pick is the new oct, with the Truvativ Giga Pipe Team DH Bottom Bracket '07...and a truvative team box guide chainguide , i may get me a good sram chain, and cassette....i'm still waiting for the dangerboy mechanical brake levers to become availible again so I can order those. ive decided to go with the manitou metal r coil shock 9 x 2.75 with a 700lb spring which ill order in feb. im thinking about putting bontrager rims on the aniki with maxxis tires. and a new sdg bel air saddle...this is all that im upgrading to in the next 3months for now besides little odds and ends. the rest of my cash is going into my wedding which im trying to talk my fiancee into a honeymoon at whistler b.c.(then I can ride the bike park) lol depends on how much ass i kiss from now till then lol. well you guys have a good one...ill be in touch.
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Last edited by yakuzafreerider; 12-17-2006 at 08:52 AM.
Originally Posted by goncarrasco
Just a comment, following on the topic of the rear shock springs and how to get one right for you.
I used to ride a bike with a Romic D, and, this X-Fusion works but feels very basic compared to it. At the same time, there isn't anything wrong with it, other that the worng spring rate.
When I bought my Yakuza Anike Small (I'm 5' 7" and weigh 145 lbs) it came with a 350 lbs spring which was totally wrong. I would bottom out riding down the sidewalk. Everybody says it was easy to get a new spring, but it wasn't too easy for me. I emailed IronHorse and they sent me a spring, a month later. They said the only spring they had was a 650, which was NOT OK for me, as I would get a total of 2 inches of wheel travel out of the 5 possible with the 2.5 inches of shock travel. Disappointed, I emailed X-Fusion and they sent me a 550 x 2.80, after 3 more weeks. This spring works fine, but honestly I would prefer a 500 to get the full 5 inches of travel.
While waiting for these springs to arrive on the mail (as I thought sincerely they would never arrive after more than 7 weeks!) I bought a Fox 500 x 2.80 spring which is a tiny bit too long for this X-Fusion shock. ANYBODY INTERESTED ??? Email me at [email protected] if interested.
Last week I let a new Romic D 8.75 go on ebay because I took my ruler and figured that with the extra 0.25 of travel, and with the 0.25 the 8.75 starts with (compared with the original 9.00) the rear tire would rub the seatpost when bottoming out. I read something about it here, but I figured seeing is beleiving. And that is with a sort-of skinny 2.4 tire I have. I just bought 2.7 tires and they would make for a pretty crappy landing of a big jump, if they were to stop completely and rub against the seatpost.
Anyway, here's my grain of experience. Good luck finding the right rear shock!
wanna trade your 650 lbs spring for my 450lbs?
aaronl828 go check out price point for the hemi super d bashring. it says that you can run all three rings with it. and its only 35 bucks!
but nice mod fork, don't like the brakes and shock
The 8.75" shock worked just fine. The slackening of the headtube is not noticable in my opinion (it is only a quarter inch anyway) and the Yakuzas have a very steep head angle to begin with. I am running a 6" Sherman Breakout currently but I have 7" Breakout Plus
waiting to go on it. That will slacken the headtube also and I am interested in how it
will work out. I think in will help out, especially when we go downhilling at the ski mountains.
Oh well they e-mail me back today and said no spring available. I have to wait 2 weeks to have it in stock. Hope fully it would not take longer than that. Im not in a big rush its holiday no time ride right now anywayz. Well Im just sitting here waiting for ups to knock on my door I should have it any minute now. sweet some thing to do while at home..
here are a few pics of me new aniki 2007! its amazin i luv it!
Welcome to the club.
Some changes for 07, nice ride. Post some more pic's with some sun light.....
would a Fox Vanilla R shock fit the aniki? 190mm eye to eye
Last edited by nuspeed88; 01-11-2007 at 10:23 PM.
nuspeed88- mine came with some shipping scars as well. if you got the pro build call them right away and talk to them. My big complaint was bout the wheels getting out of true and the front brake... they are going to refund my probuild so I can get the wheels trued...
jwpeltier- Wanna donate your Sherman Breakout to a low ranking Airmen in the US Air Force? :-)
Last edited by ecfiffer05; 12-18-2006 at 10:47 PM.
Last edited by nuspeed88; 01-11-2007 at 10:16 PM.
Call them up and ask them. Dont take no for an awnser right away. if they keep saying it was new, then just assume it was UPS that dun it.
Originally Posted by euan1
would a Fox Vanilla R shock fit the aniki? 190mm eye to eye
i dont know about the 190mm eye to eye but my aniki has a vanilla R shack on it!
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Subaru Debuts Online Series 'Launch Control' (Video)
Subaru of America Inc. released the first episode of a web video series called "Launch Control" aimed at bringing more attention to the brand's motorsport background in professional rally racing.
The series follows the Subaru Rally Team USA and the Subaru PUMA RallyCross Team as they get ready for and compete in the 2013 race season in events across the world.
In the first episode, team driver and defending Rally America Champion David Higgins is training for the coming season at his home in Wales, UK.


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There are many reasons your dentist might remove a molar. There may be damage to it than can't be saved by covering it with a crown, you could have a failed root canal, or you might decide to remove it instead of getting a root canal. Regardless of the reason you had it removed, you need to make sure to take good care of the extraction site after the procedure. Here are some tips for after-surgery care.
Know What Not to Do
It helps to know what you shouldn't do after having one of your molars removed. First of all, do not touch the area, brush around it or rinse it for the first day after the extraction. This time is crucial and you need to be very gentle. Shortly after the procedure, you will still feel numb. Avoid hot beverages or food as you might burn your mouth without realizing it. You should also avoid sucking, including using a straw or smoke a cigarette. This could dislodge the blood clot, which causes a very painful condition called dry socket. You also want to avoid drinking alcohol, as it delays the healing process.
Take Your Painkillers Immediately
Don't wait until the numbing has worn off and you are in pain to take your prescribed or over-the-counter painkillers. Take them as directed right when you get home after the procedure. This will help with pain and discomfort once the anesthetic starts to wear off. Keep up with the dosing schedule for the best results. Make sure you don't take more than recommended, though. If you are in too much pain, contact your dentist. They may be able to prescribe a stronger pain reliever.
Control the Bleeding
Shortly after the molar is removed, there will be a gauze placed on the area. You will need to change this dressing on your own when you get home. You will have to keep changing the gauze as needed until the bleeding stops. In most cases, you don't need to do this more than once or twice for bleeding after a tooth extraction. Hold it firmly over the extraction site until the bleeding stops, but be careful not to disturb the blood clot as you do so. You may continue bleeding slightly for a couple days, which is normal. However, if you have excessive bleeding, contact your dentist.
Rinse Daily
After that first day of no rinsing, your dentist will advise you to use a warm salt water rinse. This helps clean the area of bacteria and food particles until you are able to brush the extraction site safely. Do this several times a day, but be careful not to use force when spitting it out. The dentist may also provide you with a prescription-strength rinse to kill bacteria.
Consider a Dental Implant
After the area has healed, you will be given options for replacing the missing tooth. Even with a molar, leaving the empty socket could cause other teeth to shift over time. One way to replace it is by getting a dental implant. A metal post is inserted into the jawbone, then a crown is placed over that. This is the best tooth replacement option, as it looks and feels just like a natural tooth.
Talk to a specialist like South Shore Prosthodontics for advice about aftercare and other dental treatment options.Share
4 May 2015
The average dentist takes many client appointments each day and also deals with emergency situations on a regular basis. Dental emergencies are very common because people are likely to put off having tooth pain fixed until the pain becomes unbearable. Some people have anxiety about dental visits, and others are trying to avoid the expense of dental care. In either case, the end result is often a dental emergency. I have worked as a professional dental hygienist for many years and have seen all types of dental emergencies. I hope that this blog will help people identify potential emergencies before they become too serious and will allow people to know when to get help.


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Ryan Lind, Pastor
JoAnn DePolo is a gifted artist and communicator. She relates to her audience very well, especially to those who tend to think creatively. It is rare to find an artist who can communicate in both abstract and concrete terms, but that is one of JoAnn's greatest strengths. I would highly recommend her to speak at your event.
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JoAnn is an accomplished artist, author and excellent teacher. Her art reflects the freedom we find in our Savior and the blessings God bestows upon His children. Her book, Making It as an Artist, is true guidance for the artist and an inspiration for those who would not call themselves artists. I don't think you will find many others as encouraging as JoAnn. I am sure she will approach your speaking engagement whole-heartedly and with great enthusiasm."
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