text:
There are many scholarships available to 4-H members. Below you will find a list of some scholarships that are available. There are some administered by the Howard County UME Office and others from independent organizations. The information below is provided as a resouce to our 4-H members. Please be sure to pay special attention to deadline and submission details.
Howard County Farm Bureau Scholarship and Jackie Bauer Memorial Scholarship- The Howard County Farm Bureau will offer one $2,000 scholarship for youth between the ages of 14-16 and one $2,000 scholarships for youth between ages 17-19. Applications are due April 1st. For more information please refer to the scholarship application form.
Turner/Olson Scholarships-These scholarships are in memory of two Howard County 4-H members, Jennifer Turner and Jennifer Olson, who tragicially died in separate car accidents. Two $1,000 scholarships will be awarded to a current or former Howard County 4-H member enrolled at an accredited 4-year or 2-year college, university, or community college with intent to obtain a Bachelor's or upper level degree. Applications are due to the Howard County Extension Office by July 1st.
Howard County Fair Scholarship-Each year, the Howard County Fair Association offers scholarships to qualified individuals to assist with their educational expenses. Applications are due on Saturday, August 10th by 6:00 p.m.
Howard County 4-H All Stars Scholarships-Up to six- $500 scholarships and two $1,000 scholarships are offered by the Howard County 4-H All Stars. Completed applications are due July 1st.
Out of State Trips Scholarship-The Howard County 4-H Foundation, Inc. makes scholarships available to Howard County 4-H members selected for Out of State Trips. Scholarships will be awarded up to $250. Completed applications can be sent to the Howard County Extension Office.
Jered Harrison 4-H/FFA Memorial Scholarship-Jered was an active member in the 4-H program and the South Carroll FFA. He showed beef steers, sheep and swine. Sadly, he lost his life in a farming accident at the young age of 26. This scholarship has been established in his memory to provide opportunity for other young 4-H and FFA members. Applications are due July 20, 2019.
Maryland Grain Producers Scholarship-This scholarship program is offered through Maryland Grain Producers and is not a 4-H specific scholarship. The purporse of the scholarship program is to provide financial support to students interested in pursuing an agriculturally related career. Given the dynamic changes in agriculture today, the advances in biotechnology, global positioning systems, environmental protection, drone technology, and crop and livestock production, Maryland's grain farmers believe it is very important to encourage students to consider careers in agriculture by supporting their educational needs through the use of scholarships. Scholarship applications are due June 1st.


text:
Time for a little post (ha, well past time) because this one has been sitting in draft stage for literally two years and every time I bake it I have to click my way through my working blog pages slightly annoyed at myself for not ever finishing the recipe for a fairly easy and really delicious apple galette. For the record, galettes and crostatas are the same thing as least to me, rustic fold-over one crust vehicles for cooked fruit and possibly savory things. The fastest way to pie and just the right amount for 4 to 6 people, well 8 people, if your people are the "just a little slice" type. No judgement on those people, but they'll probably want more if they take just take a little slice. I recently served this after a big dinner and cleverly had enough leftover for a breakfast/coffee treat. I have my ways.
You can make your own pie/galette dough and it is completely worth the small effort required. This galette dough recipe is really about the technique. Alice Waters of Chez Panisse surely knows her pastry so I have not adapted it really at all. I usually make half a recipe because I have a small freezer m my small refrigerator, but if you have the room go ahead and make the full recipe and freeze one half of the dough for another galette of whatever flavor whenever you feel like it. Buy nice unsalted butter, I find a big difference in taste here in Australia. My go to brand here is Devondale. Quite nice. You can see from my photos that I still have large bits of butter as I roll out the pastry. Big bits of butter make for the flakiest pastry, and under-worked is much more tender than over-worked pastry. I have dough ready for chilling in maybe ten minutes. Give it a go.
The apple filling is based on a recipe from Ina Garten. That woman knows her desserts, so who am I to change the recipe much at all? Sometimes I slice the apples thinly, but cutting them in chunks is a nice switch. Australian markets offer fewer apple varieties (they are completely missing out) and it's almost spring so not actually apple season down under. But in America, you are all ready for the abundance of Autumn harvest and will be spoilt for choice, as they say here. So mix up your apples. Go pick some and or buy some that are marked good for baking. Use a couple of each variety. Here I used all Granny Smith (told you the varieties were lacking). The apples are tossed with orange zest (oranges are in season here and so I used a nice big blood orange) and then sprinkled with a streusel. Quite nice.
Serve your galette warm. Make it early and leave it on your baking sheet to easily reheat it before serving or slide it in the oven before you sit down to dinner and have it ready and waiting for a little scoop of vanilla ice cream, frozen yogurt or gelato. Australians might serve it with double cream which goes on in a dollop. Also quite nice.
Writer's note, after almost three years here in The Lucky Country, I feel the need to make some notes and conversions. I also say things like "quite nice" and "give it a go" which are delightfully Australian to me. I am well and truly at home here, but still switch very easily to whatever variety of the English language is spoken around me. If only the math (maths as they say) conversions were as natural.
Apple Galette
Galette dough (yields two 12-inch galettes)
2 C all-purpose flour
3/4 tsp granulated sugar (caster sugar)
1/4 tsp kosher salt (sea salt)
1/2 C ice water
10 T cold unsalted butter, cut in 1/2 inch pieces (160 g)
Again, this makes enough for two, so make a half batch or use one half and freeze the other.
Let the cold butter pieces soften just a bit (just minutes). Test by pressing your finger on one of the pieces and if it presses easily but still remains cold and does not leave butter on your finger you are good to go. If it's too soft, put it back in the refrigerator for a few minutes. This is all for flakiness, but don't get too worked up about it.
Mix the flour, sugar and salt in a large bowl. Add the butter to the flour mixture and toss to coat the pieces. Press the butter pieces with your thumb and forefinger one by one to flatten them. When all the pieces are flattened, drizzle in half the water, mixing all the while with your fingers spread and curved a bit, raking the dry mix from the bottom to the top to evenly incorporate the water. Continue this way until the dough starts to come together, breaking apart any large lumps of butter as you go. try not to squeeze the dough together, as this activates the gluten in the flour and can make the dough tough. Drizzle water over one tablespoon at a time and keep drizzling and raking until the dough looks moist and ropey with very little dry flour. It will be forming a good ball by now.
Divide the dough in half (unless you halved the ingredients), shape into a ball and flatten into a disc pressing in any random lumps of butter. Wrap in plastic wrap. Refrigerate at least an hour and up to a day. Extra dough can be stored in the freezer for a month or two. Thaw frozen dough overnight in the refrigerator before using.
Apple Filling (for one galette)
1 1/2 pounds (750 g) pie apples (Granny Smith, Macintosh, Empire, Jonathon, Honeycrisp, etc)
1/2 tsp freshly grated orange zest (lemon would work too)
1/4 C all-purpose flour
1/4 C granulated, superfine or light brown sugar (caster sugar or light brown sugar in koala land)
1/4 tsp kosher salt (sea salt)
1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
1/8 tsp ground allspice
4 T cold unsalted butter, diced (56 grams)
1egg white and a couple of T of milk along with a good sprinkle of sugar (coarse is pretty) for an optional egg wash and sugar sprinkle
Preheat oven to 425 F/ 200 C.
Peel, core and cut the apples in small chunks (cut each apple into maybe 4 wedges and chop each wedge into about 12 pieces, the number being unimportant what you want is relatively uniform chunk size. Toss the apple chunks with the zest and set aside. In a medium bowl, combine the flour, sugar, salt, cinnamon and allspice. Toss the butter into the mix and use your hands to work the butter into the mixture until you form little clumps about the size of peas. Easily done in a food processor, but I make this in a low-tech, easy clean-up way.
Line a baking sheet with parchment/baking paper. Lightly dust the paper with flour and lightly dust the disc of dough too. Roll out your pastry into a circle about 14-inches in diameter. Top the pastry with the apple chunks leaving a few inches around the edges (you will be folding up the crust to cover at least half the apples). Top the apples with the streusel mixture Work your way around the circle, gathering as you go and fold up the crust around the apples covering at leas half of them. Use a fork to beat an egg white with a couple of tablespoons of milk and then brush the pastry with the egg wash. Sprinkle the egg wash with some sugar. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes until crust is golden and apples are tender (if the crust is browning too quickly, loosely cover with foil and continue baking).
|rolled galette dough topped with apples
|topped with streusel
see how it's not perfectly shaped? that's what's perfect about it
|sides folded up and gathered
|egg washed and sprinkled with coarse sugar

subset: commoncrawl


text:
Pricing & Low-Price Guarantee
YLiving Low-Price Guarantee
If you find the exact same product advertised for less anywhere else and it's within 30 days of your purchase, we will gladly match the lower price of the item. Please note that shipping and handling fees are taken into consideration as well. If the competing price includes a shipping charge, we will match the total price, including shipping. We also require:
- Verification of the offer
- That the offer is made by another authorized dealer of the product
- That the offer follows manufacturer pricing guidelines and policies
- That the item is in-stock
Back to Top
Pricing or Product Description Discrepancies
YLiving makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the pricing and product information on our website, but there is a possibility that pricing or product information may be inaccurate. If this happens, we reserve the right to cancel your order. A complete refund will be made for any items that have not shipped. If we have made an error in product information, our sole responsibility will be to accept the product return and provide you a full refund for the item.
YLiving is not responsible for outdated or inaccurate pricing on other websites, affiliates or advertisers. If you find such an error, please notify us so that we can report it and correct it as quickly as possible.


text:
Thursday April 9, 2015 1:00 - 2:00 P.M.
Commonwealth Honors College Events Hall - 160 East
Open to everyone Refreshments served
Drawing on diverse experiences in monitoring and evaluation in the field, Pittman shares tips for students wishing to make a difference by applying their theoretical and academic skills to the international development and human rights sector. Case examples are presented from her work with peacebuilding and women's rights work in Armenia and Azerbaijan, design and implementation of a participatory evaluation process with Moroccan activists, and development of a software product to track and visualize trends in social change data, Impact Mapper.
Alexandra Pittman is the founder of Impact Mapper and AVP Global Consulting, LLC. Alexandra specializes in research and evaluation for human rights, women's rights, and social justice organizations, networks, and movements. Alexandra has worked with a diverse set of donors and international nonprofits since 2005, including Association for Women's Rights in Development (AWID), Foundation Center, FRIDA | The Young Feminist Fund, Kvinna til Kvinna, Open Society Foundations (NYC and Armenia), Oxfam America, Oxfam International, Oxfam Great Britain, Mama Cash, Spring Strategies, UNDP, UN Women Trust Fund for VAW, and Women's Learning Partnership (WLP).
Publications span both professional and academic spheres, including a chapter in the 2011 Reality of Aid report (with Anne Schoenstein and Lydia Alpizar), a chapter on the family law reform in Morocco (with Rabéa Naciri) in Citizen Action and National Policy Reform: Making Change Happen (eds. John Gaventa and Rosemary McGee), a paper for UNDP on measuring gender equality and women's empowerment, a co-authored paper on M&E in women's rights organizations, "Capturing Changes in Women's Realities" (with Srilatha Batliwala), and was the creator and moderator of AWID's M&E wiki.
Alexandra received her Masters degree in International Education Policy from Harvard University and PhD in Sociology and Cultural Psychology from Boston College. She also held a Senior Research Fellowship position at the Hauser Center for Nonprofits at Harvard University from 2010-2011, working on the role of brand in international nonprofits and philanthropies.


text:
Teen Writers Group
Is your teen an amazing writer? Do they like history? Our Teen Writers Group is a group of teens who create content for SchoolhouseTeachers.com. Currently, they are working on creating short stories for our This Day in History course. Membership to the site is not required. If you would like more information about what is required to join the Teen Writers Group, please contact Bonnie Rose Hudson, our site director, at email@example.com.
These teens have written the following stories for our This Day in History course. This Day in History leads your family on an exploration of history from ancient times through today with worksheets, living book lists, short fiction, discussion and research questions, hands-on activities, upper grade options, and more. This is a perfect way to work a little history into your day. Topics include everything from serious historic events to fun facts such as the birthday of the man who invented the salad bar! Our teens are creating short stories for numerous historical events to help bring them to life for your students. Come take a look at all of the This Day in History resources.
Anthony Goreman
- January 12, 2010, Earthquake in Haiti
- February 10, 1996, Deep Blue Beats Kasparov
Emily Bergren
- February 12, 1789, Ethan Allen's Death
- February 26, 1919, Trevor's Vacation
Grace Hopper
- November 30, 1874, A Letter to Anne of Green Gables
Robin G. Teel
- January 30, 1836, Let's Go There Together
Elizabeth Hite
- January 2, 1788, Georgia: Fourth State to Join the Union
- June 12, 1987, Walls
Chilor Thomas
- June 6, 1944, The Ultimate Sacrifice
Sydney Aperson
- June 2, 1953, Coronation Day
Danielle Babbey
- Marcy 7, 1933, Building the Boardwalk
- March 10, 1876, The Day the Phone Rang
- March 31 1918, An Accidental Road Trip
- April 7, 1906, From Fear to Freedom
Noah Tetzner
- January 8, 1815, The Battle of New Orleans
Loren Pearl
- August 1, 1498, Lantern Glass
Maggie Grandell
- January 21, 1924, Only Time Will Tell
- March 15, 44BC, A Confusing Day
- March 16, 1839, Dreamer
- May 4, 1953, Marlins for Momma
- May 8, 1945, Victory in Europe!
Mia Pott
- February 3, 1809, Colors
- April 1, 1973, Project Persevere
- July 20, 1969, Cosmos
Grace Quigley
- January 27, 1967, An Apollo 1 Account
Helen Alston
- January 15, 1759, Journal of Tom Morgan
- February 7, 1812, Journal of Henry Dowling
Caroline Sager
- February 9, 1737, Toby and Tess
Adrianna Wallin
- August 14, 1945, When Anger is No More
Anne Mary Mahand
- April 23, 1616, William's Death
- June 18, 1983, Sally Ride
If you haven't already joined SchoolhouseTeachers.com, what are you waiting for? One monthly or yearly payment gives ALL your students access to hundreds of classes and resources. Join today!


text:
First Donkr Blog Post
7 years ago in category Poker
I signed up to Donkr because I saw a thread on 2+2 and the Everest rake race looked like good value. I should place in it for March barring some last day heroics from several people below me
Run good has eluded me so far as you can see from my graph below:
This should even out a bit with volume though. 10k hands is nothing in the grander scheme of things and the bonus and rake race earnings will more than make up the EV deficit. Rakeback FTW!


text: How To Windows What to Know Before Buying a Computer Mouse Buying a mouse for a laptop or desktop computer Share Pin Email Print Burak Karademir / Getty Images Windows Installing & Upgrading Basics Guides & Tutorials Tips & Tricks Key Concepts By Lisa Johnston Writer Lisa Johnston is a former Lifewire writer and an editor who covers computer peripherals and other consumer electronics since 2004. our editorial process LinkedIn Lisa Johnston Updated October 17, 2019 195 195 people found this article helpful Using the mouse that comes with your computer gets the job done, but you could do a lot better. Since the mouse is generally the most oft-used computer peripheral, it's wise to spend some time researching what you need. Wired or Not? Whether or not you should get a wireless mouse is a personal preference. With a wireless mouse, you won't run the risk of getting tangled in your cord, but you do run the risk of running out of batteries at an inopportune time. Some wireless mice come with charging docks so you don't have to worry about buying those AAAs, although you do still need to remember to put the mouse in the dock or station. Other mice might have an on/off switch to preserve power; as with the docking station, this is only useful if you remember to switch it off when you're done using it. When it comes to those wireless receivers, some come with nano receivers that sit flush with the USB port. Others come with larger wireless receivers that jut out a few inches from the port. As you can guess, you typically pay a higher price for the nano receiver, but it might be your best buy if you're a frequent traveler. With a wired mouse, you won't have to worry about batteries or receivers because it will draw power from your USB (or PS2) port. The downside of that, however, is that you're quite literally tethered to your computer. You can only move as far away as the cord is long. Laser or Optical? Mice operate by tracking in "dots per inch" (or dpi). An optical mouse can track between 400 and 800 dpi, while a laser mouse can generally track more than 2,000 dpi. So do you need an optical mouse or a laser mouse? Don't let the higher dpi numbers fool you. Your everyday mouser typically won't require such precise tracking and will get by just fine with an optical mouse. (Some even find the extra preciseness annoying.) Gamers and graphic designers, however, often welcome the additional sensitivity. Ergonomics Perhaps the most crucial aspect of any computer peripheral is its ease of use, and when it comes to mice, comfort is king. Ergonomics in mice are important because they can help prevent repetitive stress injuries. However, ergonomics is not a one-size-fits-all feature, and just because a manufacturer claims its device is ergonomic doesn't make it so. Unfortunately, the only way to know whether a mouse is comfortable is to use it for an extended period, which is difficult to do without buying one. As with all computer peripherals, research your device before purchasing it. If the mouse won't be used for extended periods, you can let aesthetics weigh more heavily in your decision if you'd like. Graphic designers, PC gamers, and other long-term users, however, should stick with what's comfortable, not what's pretty. Full-Sized or Travel-Sized This category is exactly what it sounds like. Although there is no universal sizing among manufacturers, many mice come in two different sizes: full or travel. Even if you never plan to remove your mouse from its home, travel mice can often be more comfortable for people with smaller hands. Likewise, a road warrior may want to stick with a full-sized device because ill-fitting mice can cause discomfort. Programmable Buttons Everyone knows about the left- and right-click buttons, as well as the scroll wheel in the middle. But some mice also come with additional buttons that are typically located on the side of the device. These can be programmed for specific functions, such as the "Back" button on your Internet browser. If you consistently work in the same programs, these can be extremely useful, and they're typically easy to set up. Continue Reading


text:
Tom Hanlon / The Simones (Lori Fassman et al)
The Coffee House on the Rocky Plain Presents
Saturday November 9, 2013
Tom Hanlon
The Simones (Lori Fassman et al)
Music, music, music and great food to boot! Mark your calendar for the November 9th Coffee House. Featured performers are The Simones (you heard Lori Fassman last spring) and Tom Hanlon with special guest Leslie Bryant. They'll be singing 60's rock and folk music. Homemade cakes, pies and other gastronomic wonders will be served in a cozy atmosphere. Come early to settle in at your favorite table or snuggle on a comfy couch.
Come be part of the folk music scene, a New England tradition throughout the greater UU community. Proceeds benefit FPS as well as Don Arte, a music program in Cusco, Peru for disadvantaged children.
Doors open 7pm for tickets and refreshments
Music begins at 7:30pm
$12 general admission, $8 students, $4 children under 12
The Coffee House on the Rocky Plain is dedicated to
showcasing emerging local musical talent
First Parish of Sudbury Unitarian Universalist
327 Concord Road, Sudbury, MA 01776
Web Site: http://coffeehouse.fpsudbury.org
The Coffee House on the Rocky Plain is dedicated to showcasing emerging local musical talent.


text:
Wednesday, August 31, 2016
Hanjin Shipping Files for Receivership
According to news reports, South Korea's Hanjin Shipping Co Ltd filed for court receivership on Wednesday after losing the support of its banks. The situation remains fluid and the actual effect on the supply chain is unclear. We will keep everyone advised as more information is received.
You can also monitor current updated information via the Internet.


text:
(change location)
Welcome! Our dentist office in Port Charlotte, FL, offers preventive, restorative, and cosmetic dentistry services to help you look and feel your best. Give our office a call at (941) 255-8500 to see how we can help you.
Whether you need a smile check-up and teeth cleaning or require extensive dental work, our dentist will answer all of your questions in a relaxed, friendly setting. We believe your visit to our dentist office should be as pleasant and stress-free as possible. That's why we'll take the time to explain what your x-rays show, and your treatment options. You'll leave our dentist office with a clear understanding of your treatment plan, the timeline, and how you can fit any out-of-pocket costs into your budget. We want you to leave our office smiling!
Our dentist office in Port Charlotte, FL, offers the following smile services:
A great smile starts with us.


text:
Maryland moves one step closer to 200MW offshore wind farm
Are we there yet?The state of Maryland has been pushing for at least 3 years to build a 200-megawatt offshore wind farm off its coast, 10 to 20 miles from Ocean City. Getting all their ducks in a row hasn't been easy. The governor Martin O'Malley is leading the charge, with support from the state's citizens who's support for the project hit 72% in a recent poll and the state Senate. The latest piece of the puzzle to fall into place was a positive vote at the General Assembly (88 yays, 48 nays) allowing to set the financial foundation of the project. The Baltimore Sun writes:
The bill will require suppliers of electricity in the state to get up to 2.5 percent of their power from offshore wind as early as 2017. And it would offer a successful developer a subsidy of up to $1.7 billion over 20 years — paid for by Maryland's residential and commercial electric ratepayers through slightly higher bills.To pay for the subsidy, the Public Service Commission could authorize an additional charge of up to $1.50 a month for residential electricity customers. Commercial customers could see a charge of up to 1.5 percent of their electric bills.
Now they have to get approval from the Federal government to lease nearly 80,000 acres of ocean off Maryland, and then get some wind developers interested in actually building the turbines... Construction could still be 4 to 7 years away. But at least things are moving in the right direction, and hopefully future wind projects will go more smoothly, as the U.S. East Coast has a huge untapped wind energy potential that - if exploited properly - could help clean up the power grid with minimal impact compared to most alternatives.
The image above is from this slideshow showing Siemens building giant wind turbines offshore with a special ship.
Via Baltimore Sun, Grist
See also: Building Giant 505-Feet Wind Turbines Offshore is No Easy Task!


text:
Two Partisan Warriors, Michael Steele and Lanny Davis, Going Purple – The Daily Beast.
What is even more scary is that he people they elect believe the same thing. Truth in the Republican party is taboo. The Big Lie: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Big_Lie it is being used today by the Conservatives. Since they don't like change, they lie to themselves and demonize reasonable people.
Read the Article at HuffingtonPost
I always wondered how Congress can break laws. Congress passed the spending. So as much as it me be wrong or right to force future government to pay for it; thats the way physics work. No time travel yet.
Could they get an opinion from the Supreme Court first? I know sometimes the DOJ will give an opinion on a pending, proposed or questionable law. Can they ask the courts to get their opinion?
Read the Article at HuffingtonPost
It is okay to cut things as long as they don't involve tea party country. Isn't this pork?
Read the Article at HuffingtonPost
Psoriatic arthritis is a very fatigue based disease. http://www.psoriasis.org/psoriatic-arthritis/diagnosis Its an hyper autoimmune disease that can cause serve inflammation. Its like you body thinks it has an infection when it doesn't. Sometimes you feel like you have a bad sunburn when you don't. I have it and it is a doozy. You can be fine one minute then the next you ligaments, joints and membranes are inflamed. Its also a hard disease to diagnose because the symptoms can be very generalized and overwhelming.
More on Golf
Read the Article at HuffingtonPost
Here we go again. First it was moderates who were devilized by the conservatives. Now disclosure is bad. Sounds like something out of 1984:
"The key-word here is blackwhite. Like so many Newspeak words, this word has two mutually contradictory meanings. Applied to an opponent, it means the habit of impudently claiming that black is white, in contradiction of the plain facts."
Definition of doublethink: "To tell deliberate lies while genuinely believing in them, to forget any fact that has become inconvenient, and then when it becomes necessary again, to draw it back from oblivion for just so long as it is needed…."
Another historic reference can be described as the "big lie" in WWII:
The phrase was also used in a report prepared during the war by the United States Office of Strategic Services in describing Hitler's psychological profile:
"His primary rules were: never allow the public to cool off; never admit a fault or wrong; never concede that there may be some good in your enemy; never leave room for alternatives; never accept blame; concentrate on one enemy at a time and blame him for everything that goes wrong; people will believe a big lie sooner than a little one; and if you repeat it frequently enough people will sooner or later believe it."
Someone is studying old school propaganda in the republican offices.
Read the Article at HuffingtonPost
This disturbs me very much. These kids have so much to live for. Bullying will not stop until they hold the bully's parents accountable. It starts at home and needs to be stopped at home. Where are the bully's parents, do they do enough to keep their child from hurting other children.
Read the Article at HuffingtonPost
I always believed there was a population equation to homosexuality. Good old mother nature.
Males are less picky and will have sex with more types of women than would females with different types of men. If women are more attracted to males then more male needles (pun intended) will point to that women and then that female will have more offspring. Is that what I read?
Is this more of a natural selection competition or more based on the general population's needs? Will there be more homosexuals during high population explosions (if so does that mean there will be more homosexuals in the future as the world overpopulates) or when their are less fertile males? Or both or all of these choices? So much more to learn and explore?
So, if mother nature needs to lower the birth rate, is that the reason for lesbians?
Hard to get a handle on the concept as it is explain in the article. It can get complex. Or it may just be me?
Read the Article at HuffingtonPost
Goes to show you that greed will aways come back to bite you. Greed does not work for anyone.
Read the Article at HuffingtonPost
Power seems to corrupt all! He comes reform and new leadership for the unions. About time!
Read the Article at HuffingtonPost


text:
Dear AndyAndy,
Thank you very much for your inquiry. Creeping Charlie or ground ivy is a particularly problematic weed because of the fact that it is resistant to a number of herbicides, but there are some very effective products available. (One of the things I am assuming here is that you want to control the creeping Charlie in your turf areas.) When searching for a herbicide look for products containing triclopyr. This includes Weed B Gon Purple, Weed B Gon Chickweed, and Weed B Gone Max. If you have other broadleaf weeds such as dandelion, Weed B Gon Max would be a great choice because it contains 4 active ingredients 2,4-D, which is very effective on dandelion, MCPP, dicamba, and triclopyr. The best time to apply your perennial weed control products for species such as creeping Charlie is in fall (October 1-15). At this time weeds will be going dormant and storing nutrients, and if you spray at this time the weed will actually store the herbicide, giving you the best control response. The second best time is in the spring right at and after creeping Charlie flowers.
A second good choice for chemical control is quinclorac (Drive). This is harder to find and is more expensive (it is also better). I have never heard of it being sold in the bigger stores, only Lesco. It can be applied alone or mixed with any three way product (triclopyr does not have to be in the mix) and you will get excellent results. Timing is still the same. The good news about Drive is that is the best post emergence herbicide for crabgrass that I have ever seen. It will come off patent next year, so I suspect is availability will become more widespread.
Again, thanks for the question and let me know if you have more.
Trey Rogers
The Yard Doctor
20 mule team Borax was what worked for me. Theory being charlie is more boron sensitive than turf grass so you have to go easy. Sprayed Charlie w/ weed b gone max spring and fall last year and he just laughed. After the borax treatment he laughs no more.
"he laughs no more" LoL kwoods. :)
I wonder, is there a down side to using borax?
What would its effect be on the micro heard? Is this something one could use within an organic approach?
I too am having a terrible time with creeping charlie. It's now spread from a small garden area to the lawn. I want to get rid of it - but it's near a memorial tree that I am terrified of damaging. Any advice would be so appreciated.
I also have a problem in my garden area with creeping charlie. How do I get rid of charlie without killing my flowers??
Creeping charlie has all but taken over my lawn but I have dogs and cannot use any of the usual solutions. Does anyone have a solution for ridding this dreaded weed to save my lawn and not harm my dogs? Thanks
In the garden, I use a mixture of hand-pulling, round-up and massive amounts of mulch. When charlie reappears, which it always does, it's much easier to pull out of mulched areas.
How do I kill creeping charlie in my raspberry patch without killing the berries ?
Me too... I've tried everything from Ortho, Weed-B-Gone, and other across the counter products to professional ChemLawn service... Nothing gets rid of this stuff. I've been told to kill it all, plow and reseed. What is the use in that. Its everywhere and it would definitely return. I'm considering paving it and painting it green. That way I wouldn't have to do anything but paint it once a year or so... I GIVE UP to CREEPING CHARLIE. I'm through spraying and praying. Do you think plugging my yard with Zoysia Grass will eventually choke out all the weeds including Creeping Charlie???
5 teaspoons of 20 mule to 1 quart of H2O, (I make my in small batches to ensure it is completly disolved) put in sprayer and apply to the C/C. It worked for me in eastern N.C., I've applied it every four years just to maintain, must be careful of over doing it with the boron.
all my creeping charlie is in my flower beds and around my bulb that are under ground. What can I put down without harming my plants?
Hi Um would the Borax remedy hurts the other flowers that I have growing in the same bed. Thanks Joanie
I have had success with Ferti-Lome Weed-Out. Two applications weeks apart may be necessary, but it does work!
What is the experience out there with the 20 mule team? I'd be really interested in hearing about the impact on other plants when treating Creeping Charlie in flower beds and turf.
Please feel free to write directly.
I have dumped so much of the 20 mule in my ward that I should own the entire company. Guess what.. not only did it burn up the grass (and CC) when too much was put on a spot but CC is back this year and even stronger than ever.... it's even in my vegetable garden this spring.
I live in Northern Iowa and want to know how I could access
getting Borax to use to kill the creeping charlie thats
invading our lawn.
I have Zoysa grass and a huge crop of creeping charlie! I have been pulling it up after it rains but it is getting away from me. Is there a weed killer I can use that will kill it and not the grass?
Creeping Charlie is tough. I attacked it for two years with Trimec, purchased at Agway. I mix it twice as strong as recomended and have had some success. Two times in the spring and twice in the fall to knock it back. This year I'm still fighting it but can't give it up. I've reseeded large spots. I've gone into the woods and sprayed it. Good Luck.
I am new to the home owning business. I didn't know much about weeds except the Dandelion. Last year I had this prickly low growing weed with a massive root system. I dug out 10 or so last year. This year there is 20-30 of them. Turns out to be Bull Thistle. (treating that with Round-Up, although a handful of Scott's Turf Builder +Weed Control did a number on the bigger ones)
Talking with the neighbors I asked him about creeping charlie because he is always talking about the problem he has but I never knew what it looked like. Well, he showed me and as I walk across my lawn, BAM!!! it hits me in the face.
The front yard is almost Dandelion free but 1/3 is covered in the C/C.
I have read all the responses and am in the process of using Scott's Turf Builder +Weed Control along with a spray of Weed-B-Gone Max.
I did the spray yesterday and the spreader today. I will keep you posted on my results.
Still not sure what that 20 mule team Borax some of you are talking about. Anyone enlighten me?
I am new to the home owning business. I didn't know much about weeds except the Dandelion. Last year I had this prickly low growing weed with a massive root system. I dug out 10 or so last year. This year there is 20-30 of them. Turns out to be Bull Thistle. (treating that with Round-Up, although a handful of Scott's Turf Builder +Weed Control did a number on the bigger ones)
Talking with the neighbors I asked him about creeping charlie because he is always talking about the problem he has but I never knew what it looked like. Well, he showed me and as I walk across my lawn, BAM!!! it hits me in the face.
The front yard is almost Dandelion free but 1/3 is covered in the C/C.
I have read all the responses and am in the process of using Scott's Turf Builder +Weed Control along with a spray of Weed-B-Gone Max.
I did the spray yesterday and the spreader today. I will keep you posted on my results.
Still not sure what that 20 mule team Borax some of you are talking about. Anyone enlighten me?
Guess I'll try the Borax on Charlie.
But I Need someones help tilling me what kind of grass I have around my house.The guy at the store thought it was crabgrass.But I'm not sure what it is. He told me to use WEED B GONE for crabgrass. I'm not sure where to ask this but thought someone could help me here.I can't show you a photo unless you send me an e-mail saying "show me your grass". Then I'll send you back a photo of the grass. Thanks Fred
I don't use pesticides whatsoever. I handpick the creeping charlie every time I go into my yard. Eventually, it gets less and less. Don't use Round Up or it will 'kill' your flowers and grass.
Last year one whole side of my front yard was covered with creeping charlie. I sprayed with Weed B Gone Max. Once in spring, early summer and agin in early fall. this year there is every little creeping charlie. I'm not a big fan of pesticides but there was just too much to pull. I know I will have an on going problem with charlie. He is living in my next door neighbors lawn.
You have to use Weed B Gone MAX regular weed be gon won't do it. It has not killed my grass and I do not spary it on my plants.
Any one that tells you they can get RID of Creeping Charlie should have their head examined! I have tried now for 4 years to even reduce it. The more I tried the harder it came back with a vengence! Finally I tried the BURN the LAWN Method. I did not want to use ROUNDUP or other such chemicals since I wanted to try to reseed and get back a lawn. Rented a flame thrower now 2nd time from my hardware store. Filled up the 20 gallon propane tank and went to town. Unbelievably flaming this stuff the grass went faster. And the little baby plants of creeping charlie were still happy and green till I stood their for about 30 seconds of scorching heat to make it go to Ashes. Like nature does... :-) fire is what turns over fields of grasses etc. So instead of long term issues with chemicals maybe burn the lawn where ever Creeping Charlie is! You will smile when you see this plant shrivel up! then put in new topsoil and reseed for a new lawn. It will come back where ever you missed it! Then handpull it to slow it down or use Trimec in limited areas. It will help but not cure your lawn of creeping charlie. What about landscape beds? We are trying now Curb-it 5 inch wide concreted curbs around most of our beds and use of rock, rubber mulch and landscape fabric as a second and third line of defense!
Hey guys,
I have been reading your frustrations. I want to reiterrate my post from two years ago, and remind you how important timing is for attacking this weed. A couple of applications in late September/early October is the key to beginning to control this monster. Plus, if you use Weed B Gon max over whole yard at this time, you will have an amazingly clean yard the next spring.
Creeping Charlie or ground ivy is a particularly problematic weed because of the fact that it is resistant to a number of herbicides, but there are some very effective products available. (One of the things I am assuming here is that you want to control the creeping Charlie in your turf areas.) When searching for a herbicide look for products containing triclopyr. This includes Weed B Gon Purple, Weed B Gon Chickweed, and Weed B Gone Max. If you have other broadleaf weeds such as dandelion, Weed B Gon Max would be a great choice because it contains 4 active ingredients 2,4-D, which is very effective on dandelion, MCPP, dicamba, and triclopyr. The best time to apply your perennial weed control products for species such as creeping Charlie is in fall (October 1-15). At this time weeds will be going dormant and storing nutrients, and if you spray at this time the weed will actually store the herbicide, giving you the best control response. The second best time is in the spring right at and after creeping Charlie flowers.
I can't believe it... I have finally stumbled on what this ugly, ugly weed is. I covered my garden with the black paper in between the rows and my creeping charlie loves it. Sun, no sun; whatever, it's happy. It is flourishing under there and just pushes the paper up. I have pulled so much out to no avail! I can see I'm not reading many positive comments so I'm not sure what I'm going to do. I'll keep reading...
I live in northern Illinois. I have picked up creeping charlie from somewhere. I had none of this 3 years ago! All of a sudden, there it is. I have tried pulling, landscape fabric(it loves it and grows thru anyway), mulch, (it loves that even better) it now has overrun my flower gardens and has gone into the lawn. I am going to try the borax, although I am afraid it is going to kill my flowers... Any suggestions, I have never seen Weed-Be-Gone Max in any of the stores in our area. Regular Weed-Be-Gone does nothing and round-up will kill all the flowers. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you.
Here's the recipe to use if you have a lot of creeping charlie to kill:
1/4 cup Borax mixed with 5 gallons of water, pour into watering cans and apply liberally to the weeds.
Mix the Borax in a quart of warm water first to make sure it dissolves, otherwise you'll be left with chunks.
Borax can be found in most grocery stores in the laundry soap section.
Getting the solution from the 5 gallon bucket to the watering can is the most tedious part of this effort, so I also purchased a small water pump to help with the transfer.
This should not hurt the other vegitation that is already there.
It will most likely take several applications spaced out over days and weeks before you win. Don't give up!!!!
I never knew what this was until i bought my own house a few months ago. my parents came over and were shocked at all the CC and weeds. obviously i knew nothing about gardening! i keep trying just to pull them as it comes. but the house next to mine has been vacant for some time and thats where all the CC is coming from so i can't stop it! i guess i'll just keep pulling it up
I make a 'glove of death'!! Two plastic bags over my hand, an old fuzzy car mitt and a mixture of Round-up and Weed B Gone Max. I spray one side of the mitt and then I gently rub it on the CC, missing all of my lovely flowers. Works great! I store the mitt in a couple of ziplocks and use it again.
I have read all the entries, and I too can feel your pain ! I am going to try both the Borax and the Weed Be Gone Max suggestions and see which one is more successful. This is the Uber weed ! It has taken over our lawn and front flower bed and is attempting to take over the raised beds as well. I had never seen this offensive ivy before we bought our house. What is its origin ? ( who can we blame for giving us this pest ? )
I've had some limited success by fluffing up the CC with a garden rake before mowing. By raking it first, the lawnmower is able to catch it.
Tonight I just tried spraying a patch with Brush-B-Gon (9% triclopyr) mixed 1/2 strength. No trimec or 2,4-d or glyphosate, just triclopyr. We'll see how it works.
On Borax, a Univ. of Wisconsin researcher notes that too much boron will kill all vegetation. This chemical does not degrade, so too much and nothing will grow in that patch of soil.
Personally, I will try boron in dilute solutions until the C/C is gone. Probably in late fall, as the good Doctor recommends.
Here is a link that might be useful: Univ. of Wisconsin creeping charlie
The first information about treating CC came out accompanied with a warning to use it one time only because the boron would build up in the ground not allowing future plants to grow. There is a risk in using Borax if you have recently purchased your home (and lawn). Do you actually know that the previous owners did not treat with Borax?
I have spent my summer pulling the CC in my lawn and replanting grass--maybe a losing battle. We will try the herbicides recommended in the fall and more picking in the spring.
I live in SW Iowa. Seven years ago I didn't have any CC. My neighbor (1) with the beautifully groomed yard pointed out to me that neighbor (2) had a CC problem that was going to affect me soon so I had better keep an eye on it. Wow was he ever right. I have been treating the CC for 5 years with the Borax, sometimes mixing it too strong and killing everything. N2 comments on how awful the stuff is and that he knows he should do something about it but he never does. I even go so far as to always mow from N1 side of my lawn to N2 side with a push mulching mower so I don't track it across my yard. Now I have several plants that have popped up close to the N1 side of my yard. Can it be spread by lawn clippings that are always being blown on my yard from the N2 side and from birds droppings? I want to live peacefully with my neighbors but right now I feel like a buffer zone.
I got a terrible aversion to CC last year. My CC came from both side neighbors and is everywhere in my lawn. No one could really tell me which herbicide would work, so I started spending about an hour a day sitting or kneeling on the lawn, doing a couple square feet at at time. I use a three-pronged garden fork and my fingers to pull out the roots...you get used to finding them by touch, and then spreading grass seed in the areas left around isolated tufts of grass. I collect the CC and bag it and get rid of it. This year the areas I cleaned last year look great! I have to "patrol" the new areas and look for little bits of CC I missed, but when the new grass gets thicker, it should help a lot keeping out the CC. Doing it this way is actually calming, though labor intensive. However, it uses no poisons or chemicals.
I have creeping charlie in my hosta's which are around my fish pond which is full of fish and frogs. Is there something natural that this weed does not like.
My personal experience with Creeping Charlie:
- It grows in sun and shade. I've read elsewhere that it won't survive in full sun - WRONG. It does great in the sun.
- Borax is worthless. Don't waste your time. I've tried it and you may as well go out and pee on the lawn for all the good it does.
- Killing the whole yard may seem like a drastic step, but if you want to start fresh, and use a good turf-type fescue that will stay green and healthy even in dry periods this might be the way to go.
- Pulling it out by hand works if your yard is 100 sq ft. For anyone who has a medium to large back yard there isn't enough time in the year unless you are retired and have absolutely nothing else to do with your time. Most of us on a limited time budget need something that works without investing 10,000 hours of time pulling weeds. Not that there's anything wrong with that. Those of you who are horrified at the idea of using any type of herbicide, more power to you. IMHO, there is a time and place for other methods.
- Trimec works if you mix it up about 2 - 3 times the recommended strength and spray in the fall as the Doctor has prescribed. Mid September to October, get out and hit it then search it out again in the spring. It will be there, don't worry. It will take a couple years but you can get it under control if you're serious.
- Have not used Weed-B-Gon Max but it has the right ingredients so it should work also if applied at the right time. Again, in the fall.
- If your yard gets stressed every summer because of drought, you should really look at overseeding or slice seeding in some of the newer turf-type fescues that can survive these conditions better than the ol' KY Bluegrass. Crossfire 21 is good, there are other brands and more of them every year. A yard that has good grass is more likely to prevent these weeds from going too far. However, you will still have to spray or pull new plants to control it. Seeds get transported from anywhere and unless you and every neighbor within 50 miles have eliminated it, you will always see some starts.
- Don't give up on it. You can control it if you're willing to invest a little time and $$.
Try waiting till after a killing frost. Most problem weeds will take the treatment deep into their system. Next spring should result in a good kill of target weed.
I have creeping charlie and wild strawberrys taking over my flower beds. I have pets and don't want to harm them. What can I do to get rid of these two annoying weeds without harming my beautiful plants and pets?
I live in the Piedmont area of NC, where CC is almost universal. I wouldn't mind it so much if it did not creep into flower beds and vegetable gardens, but it climbs over barriers and burrows beneath them.I have a lot of of ajuga that has worked its way into the formerly grassy areas and I'm trying to encourage it to battle it out with the CC. I weed around the margins to give the ajuga space to spread further. In places it is thick enough to squeeze out all but a few CC runners. Has anyone had good luck with this project on a yard-wide scale? (I know many consider ajuga almost as much of a problem as CC.)
We tried many kinds of weed killers, and the Creeping Charlie in our lawn laughed at every kind UNTIL... it was pointed out to us at a garden and hardware store that we needed the Weed B Gone with the label that prominently says it kills Oxalis weeds. It is a different kind from Weed B Gone Max. We had a hard time finding the Oxalis specific formula Weed B Gone, but after several stores we got some, and my friends, it was the magic we had looked for. Charlie was gone after a couple of applications. We had tried everything from manually weeding, to plowing under whole patches of our yard, and a lot of expensive useless chemicals in between. But I'm here to say we have the problem conquered with Weed B Gone Oxalis formula. check it out at this link:
Here is a link that might be useful: Scotts/Ortho Products
I live on Cape Cod. Just this year I've found my yard infested with CC. I believe it came with some potted shrubs which I planted, so I would be on the lookout whenever you buy plants from the nursery. A rhody from Oregon was a likely suspect here. I'm about to start spraying, and will report on progress. It would be a help if others would note WHERE they live, as local conditions may affect treatment.
I live in New Jersey, and will be attempting the Borax method. I consider the source I found reliable. I will post back in a few weeks.
As an aside, our yard is 1/3 of an acre of a mixture of grasses and that stupid weed. At this point I don't care if the grass dies; the infestation is bad (we spent the last two years treating the incorrect type of weed).
Also, I did see the preference to apply in the fall, but my yard cannot wait that long. I don't want the remaining healthy areas exposed.
Here is a link that might be useful: About/ University of Minnesota
Not sure if anyone has heard of this remedy for good Old Charlie, but my lawn guy said mix Coke (Coca Cola) with Selzer and spray Charley...I did neglect to get the proportions. Most of Charley is out of my grass...due to lawn treatments but my flowerbeds and under trees are where Charley has run to. Next time the Lawn guy comes I will ask him for the proportions....last year I tried the Borax mixture under the trees...it did not work.I have not tried the Coke mixutre yet. He did mention the Coke and Selzer will kill other plants, and to spray carefully. I live in the Albany NY area.
I thought I was the only one battling this retched weed. Last year I killed off sections with Round Up. It took the grass with it. I have not noticed any new creeping charlie in those areas, but I don't want to have to do this to 7/8 of my lawn. I am going to give the Ortho Weed B Gone Max a try. I will do this soon because I know fall is the best time, but I heard right after the weed flowers is another good time to apply. I will do an update soon. Stupid Creeping Charlie
I live in the northeast(CT) and have had a large patch of CC taking over my front lawn. It was spreading rapidly to about a 20 ft. x 20 ft. section. Pulling it up was impossible and I tried some of the products from this sight except the borax. I settled on Ortho Max Poison Ivy & Touch Brush Killer (concentrate). I mixed it by the instructions and sprayed it on in 3 successive weekends when it was going dormant (Oct/Nov). By this spring I was amazed to see it was TOTALLY gone! The grass had thinned a bit due to the CC taking over, but the Ortho didn't hurt the grass at all and it's starting to fill in already. Thanks for the info and give this one a try!
I was told that pulling up the weed makes it multiply faster. You will leave roots that just propagate under ground and hundreds of new little charlies will come up later.
use low vol ester at a rate of 3 to 4 oz per gallon.you need achemical license to buy this at a coop or such not available any where else. talk to a farmer thats how i get mine.make sure you get every leaf wet and spray 2 to 3 feet around plant because it send out runners.usually takes 7 to 14 days to notice anything happening if not hit it again
Everything I have researched about this problems leads me to believe that pulling it out by hand is the best solution in garden area's and that's exactly what I do. It does help and my plants will not be hurt.
I use a large sharp knife and go about 1/4 inch below the soil just under the vine of CC and it does the trick. I leave the leaves that boarder my yard in place until late spring until I am finished removing anything I need to. Now
the grass area is harder. I have tried Round up - even in the fall - no worky worky. So, I have to think of something to spray on them. Thinking of beer. Beer fixes everything. If spraying it on the CC doesn't work - I will just drink the rest. (I really only can drink about half a beer so I won't be wasting).
The unfortunate reality is that unless your plans include something drastic like burning up or tearing up your lawn - as well as attacking the source (for me its neighbors on two sides of my lot) - Sir Charlie is here to stay.
There, I said it. The sooner you switch your focus from total eradication to simply hoping to control it, the happier you'll be with the semi-acceptable results you can obtain.
I have been battling Sir Charlie ever since my wife and I bought our home seven (yes, seven) years ago, and I've learned quite a bit over those years.
First: As stated, spring (when flowering) and fall (right before and right after first frost) are the best times to concentrate your assault.
When flowering, the plants are using more energy so they're susceptible to treatments. Ditto for fall; they're storing energy to prepare for winter.
Second: treat weekly during these times and roughly monthly during the summer months. Summer success for me is simply controlling the spread. Spring and fall are where you make the real inroads against this pest.
We've gone from having our back yard 30% infested when we first bought the house to about 10% now. He's never completely gone, but he is certainly under control.
Third: The only product we have found that works (and we've literally spent hundreds of dollars on different ones) is TRIMEC.
APPLICATION: We use it in a pump sprayer. Stated mix ratio is 1oz per gallon, but I routinely use 4-5 oz per gallon and have never damaged the surrounding grass.
We spot treat, covering the weeds and a 1-2 foot area around them to get the runners they send out. Do NOT use in flowerbeds; TRIMEC will kill your plants.
I've also obtained permission from both of our offending neighbors to spray 3-4 feet onto their lawns in an effort to help build a buffer zone. (My one neighbor's lawn is 60-70% infested, so you get an idea what we're up against).
I too have read about using Borax in varying concentrations. The trouble with Borax is that it will never break down (ever) and if you use too much or repeat more than once, it'll kill everything and you will NEVER be able to regrow anything..including grass...without replacing your soil. My advice is don't use it...you're playing Russian Roulette with your lawn and might ultimately end up VERY disappointed.
I'm of the opinion that if you're to the point of considering borax, you may as well just use Roundup on the area(s), kill grass and all, and simply plan to re-seed or re-sod. Borax is forever, and if you overdose the results can be catastrophic.
Plan to get intimately familiar with your lawn and your sprayer. This is not a quick fix. There unfortunatly is no such thing as a quick fix when it comes to Sir Charlie...
Tried the stale beer in testing area. Waiting. Gave rest of beer to neighbor. (he is waiting to see if it works too)
Tired another weird solution in another area. Since I cannot apply the big weed killer stuff on my own because of chemical reactions, I am trying things that i can. Will let everyone know how it goes.
I have been hitting my lawn with Killex for about 2 weeks now and it seems to be working. Have to just keep doing it till its gone.
I have heard if you put a teaspoon or two of dawn dish soap in with your mixture of choice it kills the CC.....its suppose to stay on leaves longer and soak in. Just tried myself so don't know if it works yet.....Also sprayed by plants....we will see if it kills them or not
Until today, 2 June 2009, I solved the "Creeping Charley" problem by calling it Ground Cover. However, this Fall, I think it will return to being a Weed that mixes well with the woodland plants that are invading my yard. I was thinking of changing the Nature of my yard from Domestic to Wild, and letting anything that wanted to grow have at it. I would still mow and the wild plants could hug the ground. As long as the yard is green and of course the flowers were interesting. Thank you all for your input.
I too seemingly have solved the " Creeping Charley " issue. My accreage seems to have become overrun with the violet stunner. Iv'e chosen to say "Go-Hard" little flower and we shall live in harmony. I have pets and I really don't want my Hubby to use Borax or any other chemical that may harm our enviro. I too, shall mow and hope we can co- exist . My only question is if the infemous weed comes in any other shades ?
If you want to get rid of it cheaply, use half bleach half water through a sprayer....it kills charlie without killing the grass. As far as gardens or flowers I haven't tried that yet.
I got SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO sick of this weed! It was showdown between us, I had tried pulling, chemicals, you name it.. I became hell-bent on removing this thing. I would lay awake at night planning my next assassination attempt. WHAT FINALLY WORKED: I found the main vines underground and took a syringe and started "shooting it up" with bleach, round up, whatever seemed harmful... My surgical strike has removed this enemy while leaving everything else intact.
CC lolled in the shade for years in our yard, then erupted everywhere the past few years. We believe it spread with our lovely new ride-on mower which throws clippings into flower beds and all over the lawn. It has not spread into the vegetable garden that is separated from the rest of the yard. We may invest in a grass catcher for the mower and spend the rest of the summer pulling CC out of garden areas and using a weed killer on the lawn itself. Perhaps this weed is just the one to use for bio-fuels as it grows everywhere easily!
I'm willing to try any and all of these treatments, BUT my concern is my dog. I'd rather have the creeping charlie if the treatments are going to hurt my puppy (little over a yr old)
After spending a couple of years, and many dollars on garden store weed killers I at last went to a Farm Supply (FS) store in the country. There I bought Crossbow concentrate, mixed a few gallons 2 1/2 oz./gal, and literally zapped Creeping Charlie. I did this in early August, and within a week the pest was gone. Crossbow did not kill the grass, but it does kill brush and small trees, so if you have volunteer maples, locust, etc. it will take care of those, too. I spot treated 3 acres which was liberally sprinkled with Charlie, and now have a hard time finding any. In fall I will hunt down any survivors and zap them, too.
During 2009, has anyone else had luck with getting rid of CC? Does the Crossbow concentrate work for others?
I have a lawn service cut my lawn. I was told that no matter how hard I try to get rid of Charlie the lawn service will bring it back every time they cut. Everyone they have visited who has Charlie is on their mowers and when they get on my lawn it gets spread. A vicious never ending circle.
I used a product called ACCESS last fall. I'd say it got rid of 90% of the Chalie. I'm noticing a few spots sprouting up this spring. I marked off my yard in grids
to spray the correct amount. I also used a generous portion when mixing. I was very pleased, and plan to spray again this spring and combine it with Weed-be-Gone Max to help eliminate the Charlie, and control my dandelions.
Very good info. Thanks everyone for their input. I've been fighting a losing battle with Charlie for the last 5 years. Using a LOT of hand pulling to keep it managed but it finally beat me and spread out of control in the last 2 years. This year is my last stand. I vow to try every chemical and solution suggested on here. Well except maybe borax, the permanent-ness scares me a bit. I've worked too hard to cultivate my perennial beds, flower gardens and pond-scape...I'd hate to kill them too. I normally try to limit chemical applications but to get rid of Charlie, I'd spray nuclear waste on my yard if it would help! We'll start with Weed B Gon for ground ivy and Weed B Gon Max and if they don't fix it, we'll move up to industrial strength stuff only found at farm supply stores. If I can't kill Charlie with all that then I'm going to formally give up, call it ground cover and enjoy a cold beverage on the porch swing. As my friend once told me "at least it's green"
Thanks again everyone for your input and experience. I'm glad to know I'm not alone in the struggle to kill Charlie. And, yes, I'm "that neighbor" who's lawn is infecting everyone around me! :(
I had a major infestation of Creeping Charlie last year. Sprayed Weed G Gon Max in the fall, just before the first frost and so far not a single CC plant has come back. I was very skeptical that one application would control it, but WOW did it work. I think it is all about timing. Hit it when it is sending sugars down to the roots and you can get good control. Also heard to try and apply when it is flowering. Good luck to all!!
We had a pony almost die from eating Creeping Charlie. Now we know it's toxic for horses, as well as other animals. Historically, it was used in beer making!
I tend to hand-pull it, as I don't use any chemicals. I don't care so much if it's in the lawn (anything green is OK) but it gets into my garden beds and drives me nuts.
Here is a link that might be useful: Brainless Knitter
Yes I have the same problem, with creeping charlie. it is next to my garage and next to that is my neighbors organic garden. what can i apply to this without it affecting the garden, but getting rid of the creeping charlie?
I have given up trying chemicals and sprays and decided it was great therapy to sit on the lawn and hand pull Creeping Charlie. See how long the "vine" you can pull. I am reducing the plants greatly. In our busy lives, it's nice to sit outside in the evenings and do this "therapy"
I have Creeping Charlie loaded in my back yard. I also had a lawn service that brought it in. Was told to try Borax but,decided not to because of the effect that it might have on my lawn.(Whats left of it.) I am going to try the Weed B Gone Max. Keep you posted.
Iowa State University Extension
Ground ivy (Glechoma hederacea) is a common weed in many lawns. Ground ivy is a Low- growing, creeping, invasive perennial. It spreads by seed and the vining stems (stolons) which root at their nodes. The Leaves of ground ivy are round or kidney-shaped with scalloped margins. Stems are four-sided. Flowers are small, bluish-purple, and funnel-shaped. Ground ivy thrives in damp, shady areas, but also grows welt in sunny Locations. A member of the mint family, ground ivy produces a minty odor when cut or crushed. Ground ivy is also known as creeping charlie.'
Control of ground ivy in Lawns is difficuLt. If the ground ivy is not completely destroyed, surviving portions wILL continue to grow and spread.
Recently, research at Purdue University investigated the effects of fertilization practices and several broadleaf herbicides on ground ivy. The research found that a good nitrogen fertility program and the use of herbicide products containing 2,4-D or tricLopyr wILL help control ground ivy. (For many years, dicamba has been regarded as the most effective herbicide in controlling ground ivy. However, the Purdue University research found that 2,4-0 and triclopyr are much more effective.)
The research also found that populations of ground ivy vary in their susceptibility to broadleaf herbicides. For example, one population of ground ivy may be highly sensitive to 2,4-D, while
another population may be somewhat tolerant to 2,4-b. - -
Ground Ivy Control Strategy
Apply 3 to 4 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet per year. Nitrogen improves the vigor and competitiveness of Kentucky bLuegrass, slowing the spread of ground ivy. An exceLlent fertilizer program for Kentucky bluegrass Lawns consists of applications of 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet in late April/May, September, and late October/early November.
Apply a broadleaf herbicide product containing 2,4-D or triclopyr to ground ivy infested areas. 2,4-D is an active ingredient in many broadleaf herbicide products. Triclopyr can be found in Ortho Weed-B-Gon Chickweed, Clover, and Oxatis Kilter for Lawns and a few other products. Herbicide applications should be made between mid-September and November 1. Two applications are most effective. The second application shouLd be made 28 days after the first.
Since ground ivy populations vary in their susceptibility to broadleaf herbicides, it is important to alternate herbicides when attempting to control ground ivy. This article originally appeared on pages Page 1-2 of the IC-493(13) -- June 8, 2005 issue.
Here is a link that might be useful: ISU Extension
Fertilome with several application, 2 early spring and one in fall. Fairly expensive with my very large lawn, but works.
I moved into our home in 1995. Not a speck of CC. Began mowing our Church's lawns, which did have CC., and have been at war with it ever since, (losing the battle). I have tried multiple applications of Weed-B-Gone and it seemed to actually thrive on the standard version. This year, as it is now in full "glorious" bloom, I am going to hit it (in both my yard and the church yards) with Weed-B-Gone Max at 2 applications, then wait till fall and hit it again. In the late spring, will fertilize with Earl May 4 step weed preventer + feed and spread additional grass seed, so that when the weed does die, grass will take over. If anyone out there has any other suggestions, I would be glad to hear them. as far as the pond garden I have, I'm to the point of spraying Round Up and just re-plant, to get rid of it.
I have tried a number of products. Weed Out worked, although it took three applications, spring, summer and fall.
Our new house had two areas of creeping charlie. Both were small patches (thankfully), about 150 square feet each.
Being pesticide/herbicide free, I tried two different approaches. Turning over the soil in one patch, and dethatching-hand pulling in the other.
The first patch is charlie-free for two years now. It was a little unsightly turning the soil over...I left it bare for 2 months while I made sure charlie was gone. Once a week I would rake the patch and patrol the edges. I found this weed does not tolerate being buried. If the roots/stems/leaves were more than an inch below soil, it didn't surface.
The second patch was greatly reduced at first, and then came back. Initially I removed all I could find, then I topdressed and reseeded. I only topdressed 1/2 inch though...I hadn't discovered the right burial depth at that time.
I am handpulling and topdressing the second patch again, this time with a deeper layer. A few charlie sprouts make it to the surface as it follows the grass blades, or when the topdressing dries out and cracks. I've been digging up the survivors, and then pressing the soil back down after I dig out the roots. After just two weeks, the stems are already getting weak from decomposing under the topdressing. Good results so far.
I've been reading this thread for 2 years now...thanks all, I will provide another update in a few months!
Weed B Gone MAX! I live on the Chiwaukee Prairie and the creeping charlie hits us hard. It has to be Weed B Gone MAX though! last year my backyard was primarily this awful weed, but within weeks it was under control.
We moved into our house last July and our lawn is 85% CC, 5% Clover and 10% Grass.
Being in Canada, we are 100% pesticide free, so I'm pretty much screwed. I tried the Borax treatment, nada, with 3 kids and full time jobs we don't have time to hand pull. Argh, very frustrating weed.
I have read and re-read all possible entries to irrdicate Charlie! Borax seems to be my attack of choice, only because it doesn't evade my lawn as yet. I am going to use Borax in my paved and rocked areas and those areas away from desired plants. I also heard that a treatment of Corn Meal after removal of Charlie detours growth (though I have not yet tried it) I think I'm going to use borax on all my paved and bricked surfaces, who wants weeds where they dont belong? Who invented weeds anyway?
My neigbour has CC and it's trying to come over to my side. I dug a trench 3-4 inches wide down about an inch or two. I check periodically for an growth on my side. I comb the area IF I find any CC to get to the roots. So far three years and I AM WINNING THE BATTLE!!!.
Has anyone any new information on the status of research involving a rust fungus (Puccinia glchomatis) as a natural to control CC? This rust fungus, a natural control of CC in Europe where CC originates, was studied in 2001 and 2002 at Cornell. The rust fungus was found in New York naturally controlling the CC without harming other plants. 80% CC eradicated. To date (at time of research 8 years ago) they hadn't been able to effectively transfer the fungus to infect other CC and needed more experimentation to make this a promising bio-control.
I can't find anything more recent on the subject. Anyone?
I had a back yard full of creeping charlie. A neighbour who was a farmer a few years back told me he got rid of creeping charlie for good by using garden lime. I marched to the garden centre and got a bag of lime, spread it on the back yard and lo and behold, I finally said goodbye to Charlie. It really worked. It took almost three weeks but it's gone. I hope it works for everyone else out there.
You can buy borax in the laundry section of your grocery store. Be careful using it if you dont spray it just right it will kill your grass to and your lawn can go barren for up to 5 years since borax doesnt dissapate. It should kill c.c since it is more sensitive then grass to borax actually if you do it right your grass with grow better with a touch of the spray since it is a mineral they like in small amounts. I did read online while researching this that because of how the soil is in Wisconsin it usually doesnt work here depending on where you are.
I went on the Mich State University web site - They have one of the best Agriculture schools in North America .. You have to mix Ortho weed be gone max with crabgrass killer and weed be gone chickweed, clover killer in a spray tank - 1oz chickweed ( purple lable ) and 2 oz. Weed be gone max W/ crabgrass control - To one gal water in a pump sprayer - Most importantly you'll have to wait until fall season or until the creeping charlie starts to flower - otherwise you are throwing your money away . The chemicals that are most effective are QUINCLORAC- ( found in weed be gone max W/ Crabgrass prev. and TRICLOPYR- found in purple lable weed be gone - LET ME KNOW HOW IT WORKS FOR YOU ..
Well, You can try your best on your Yard, but if your Neighbors have it and won't get rid of it too? You're SOL.
I live in SE Wi. and we have alot of Summer Home Owners and they could care less about their lawns, So I do it for them.. During the Week when they are not there..
Yes, I use Scotts +2, Weed adn Feed for Grass and Dandeleins, a Seperate Treatment that Kills Crabgrass, another Sep. bag for Grubs and Weed B-Gone Max .
And Manual Digging Up any I come accross while Mowing..
Butt? When I first Bought my Place? I had the Entire Yard ( only 1/4 acre Lot) it was just Crap Dirt and Grass & Weeds.. I just STRIPPED/ Removed the 1st 4 inches of Dirt ,grass and weeds, Sprayed with Grass and Weed Killer, Graded again, added New Clean Dirt of the Right Mix and then, brought in Sod.
If you have a Older home and just bought it? Odds are the Dirt is Old and Never taken care of and you have to "rehab" it as well.. A lousy $1500 is all it took for my New Lawn and it's been 7 yrs and still looks like New.
and install Underground -pop-up sprinkers before installing the Sod..with HD water Lines , we used PVC-Pressure Tubing instead of the reg. Vynil hose lines..It's so easy to add Liquid Fertilizer, Weed and Feed, etc..to it ..Mine goes off on a Water sensor.. not a timer..and don't water with Water Softner water, run a Direct line by passing the water softner.. and we use Rain Barrels for the Garden from the Gutters..
Oh, BTW? I also mow my summer home neighbors yards- I have a Riding lawn mower, charge them $25, since I secretly Treat it , and water it with their Hose and A sprinkler,
it grows so much, They're happy to have me mow it for them.So they are really paying me to treat their lawn as well.. ;-)
Growing up on a dairy farm and now a certified crop consultant, I see lawns (turf) as another crop. I find it rather interesting that after a quick read of the past few years of "recommendations" that no one has suggested getting a simple soil test for starters. Not having a soil test even for a lawn is the equivalent of not having a dip stick for an engine. You're just guessing.
Creeping Charlie generally likes soils that are low in pH. Some inexpensive lime (I prefer high calcium lime available at any farm supply store - generally mined in Iowa) at the right rate to bring it up to a pH around 6.8 is desired. Few lawn care companies do such tests and even fewer not the bargain priced $15 University test offered through virtually every Extension office.
If your soil has low OM (organic matter), less than 5%, then top dress - generally in the spring - with some nice compost. This may take more than one year.
Your soil and its microbes also need to be fed. If you see clover or if it's struggling, chances are it would benefit from nitrogen. I prefer to use corn gluten. It is a great source of N, is naturally organic, and also serves a side benefit as a broadleaf inhibitor. Best if applied after a rain or really heavy dew.
We have small children, have free range laying hens and pets so using a natural (non-synthetic) approach has been important. And best of all, it works.
So do yourself and the environment a favor and skip the herbicides. Search out a local extension person or even an organic lawn care service if you have other issues and address the source of the problems. Othewise you're simply treating symtoms that will continue to come back (perhaps in other forms) and is an ongoing expense. Search the web. It is pretty easy to have a great lawn that is earth friendly and won't cost you piles of money year in and year out.
I just bought a simple soil meter, I'm going to see! Great post Farmer Mike!!
Try spraying with full-strength rubbing alcohol 10-15 minutes before applying the herbicide (and I have not decided which to try). The alcohol will help break down the cuticle of the creeping charlie and, at least for everything else where I have used it, makes the herbicide more effective. Now to try on my neighbor's creeping charlie that is trying to take over my garden. Another, admittedly very inelegant, approach: aluminum flashing (the brown painted one) at least 6" below ground and 4" above ground. You can catch the monster before it climbs over, and it does not grow deep. (this even works with quack grass, but you need to go 8" down, minimum.)
A visiting friend of mine warned me a few years ago to get rid of the patch of Creeping Charlie in my backyard before it spread more. I should have taken his advice then.
I now have 75% of my backyard covered in CC, courtesy of my next-door A-hole neighbors that have a lawn that is almost exclusively weeds.
Anyway, I think I've figured out what I think is probably the best solution to remove CC from a lawn:
I'm not a fan of chemical solutions if I can help it, so my solution is a combination of physical removal with organic prevention...
Prerequisites: the underlying dirt should be damp (not soaked), so water the lawn the day before or start the day after it rains.
1. Mow the lawn. And cut it short. Simple enough, but important as it will make subsequent steps much easier and avoid pulling out good grass.
2. Go to town with a DETHATCHING RAKE. If you don't have one, buy one. See link for reference. I recommend doing a criss-cross pattern, i.e. going one direction across the entire lawn, and then repeat going perpendicular to the original effort. After having spent several hours using the hands-only method just to get rid of 10-20 sq feet, I realized I was probably fighting a losing battle. In approximately 1 hour, I removed ~200 sq feet of CC (and thatch!, and a patch clovers). What a difference! Just take your time to make sure the rake tines are getting flush with ground and pulling up those cursed CC vines. Much more effective than a gardening rake.
3. Follow up with the hand-pulling method to get anything you missed with the dethatching rake. If you've ever tried it by hand before, you'll appreciate how easy it is after dethatching, because the thatch is out of the way and most of the vines will already be pulled up for you.
4. As you should do whenever you dethatch, follow up with overseeding and slow-release nitrogen fertilizer (refer to Farmer Mike's advice on getting a soil sample, et al. for best results).
5. Keep the lawn well-watered for a couple weeks and re-fertilize after the grass starts growing in.
At least, that's what I plan to do. I will post results in a few weeks.
Here is a link that might be useful: Dethatching rake
I live near Syracuse, NY. When I first noticed CC in my yard, I pulled out every single piece I could find. Two weeks later the infested area was twice as big as when I started pulling it out. Then I got a lawn company to come and they got rid of it with their ultra-toxic chemicals. For years I was CCfree! I had a small yorkie who died of a brain tumor and no one can tell me that it wasn't caused by the chemicals. I am a lab tech and I should have known better than have all that stuff put on my lawn where my little dogs roam freely. I got rid of the lawn treatments and CC is back with a vengance. I was lurking here, trying to find a natural way to get rid of it, but I have decided that it is green and I am going to learn to love it or move! It is almost as hard to get rid of totally as 'snow on the mountain', but I am not going to put my family's or my dogs' life in jeopardy again trying to control something that refuses to be controlled. I thinkj we might as well try to eliminate mosquitoes!
Try lime and nitrogen. I tried Weed-Be-Gone on a small patch and almost killed my sheep and chickens. Will never use weed killers again.
I have a ton of the evil stuff right where my vegie garden is going. I plan to pull as much as I can, and scrape down a bit. Then lay wet cardboard over EVERYTHING, a layer of weedcloth, then pile on new dirt (CC free, please please please!!). Lots of hope, lots of mulch and a close eye, with immediate pulling at first sight, and I should not see him there... if it please the gardening gods!
One long term but nearly certain, chemical free method of eradication I know of, is to cover the area with clear plastic. This WILL kill ALL non-woody vegetation under the plastic, and some less hardy woodies too. Unfortunately you need to keep the plastic in place for a month or so, in the summer. Black plastic doesn't work, you need clear so the plants try to grow, and get fried in the intense heat under there. If I didn't need to be growing my garden this year, I'd use this method.
I was able to beat creeping charlie down in the past with Borax. I waited for a dry period before applying. The problem is that it only takes a little surviving root to reestablish itself. It is a never ending battle using chemicals.
Now I just pull it. All of the neighbors have CC too, so I pulled everything around the perimeter of the yard, waited a week for anything I missed to reappear, pulled the CC again and covered the area with landscaping fabric and mulch. I turn over the mulch once a year and pick out any shoots that come from the neighbors. I still have patches inside my yard. Every spring and fall when the roots are shallow, I pull it back farther and farther. I think I am winning.
Keep in mind that it only takes a leaf stuck in the mower to re-infect a cleared portion of the yard.
Burning it with a torch does NOT kill it. I have a ton of it growing in the river rock in my drainage ditch where it serves as a beach head to invade the rest of the lawn.
You have to SLIGHTLY burn it. If you turn it to ASH you it just resprouts from the roots. If you slightly torch it to wilt, it stops the process of photosynthesis and starts to starve off the roots. The leaf will die about a week later.
Then the roots will resprout and you do the cycle all over again. With repeated assaults, you will slowly kill more than regrows.
I've been doing it about a year and a half now and it's still a *&^(*&^*&%.
Nuke it with pesticides, pull it with your hands, burn it, do everything you can.
Pretend the leaves are the faces of people who annoy you at work. They don't go away either.
Last December my horse ingested a large quantity of Creeping Charlie and it almost killed her; still in recovery after much toxification.
We have not turned horses out in the pastures, waiting until CC blooms to treat with WeedMaster(TM) with dicamba.
Question: How long will it take to kill it (if it does) and when is it then not a risk for us to turn the horses out in the pastures?
18 months after converting my patchwork lawn to just about 100% Tall Fescue (cheap/tough K31 at that). I have so few spots of CC I just hand pull it occasionally while mowing my lawn and at that it just seems like finesse. The seed is inexpensive and has gotten the job done with several overseedings after a scorching cutting.
My strategy was to think "below ground." Kentucky Bluegrass, for example, has a shallow weak root system. One selling feature is the vigorous surface roots that enable it to spread in to bare spots. This behavior is essential identical to CC at the macro-level.
Cheap K-31 grass operates in a different manner. The roots are very deep and the plant prefers to be a bit tall (usually 4" mowings for me) not creepy. I ammended soil pretty deep in areas of poor topsoil. It germinates quickly and establishs to a "bigger" potential much later. But once established -- it is harder to kill then CC. Thats how I eliminated CC. I let the K31 get strong then beat up my lawn pretty badly but with just a few moments of consideration just prior. Mowing it short in heat, mowing at varying heights that "didn't make sense", letting it get tall for some periods. K-31 if you want cheap, extremely durable, weed-free turf --consensus is just overseed it every other year. KGB if you aim to have a prettier but very high maintance lawn requiring extra water, chemicals/organics, and attention with less need to overseed for thick turf.
My only question for some of the posts is what kind of grass and what kind of conditions exist and shooting for.
Best of luck with whatever grass species!
I live in Eastern Ontario and I have been hand picking this obnoxious weed for a few years, but with a nearly half-acre lot it is a losing battle. By spring of last year, I could see about 1/3 of my lawn was covered in Creeping Charlie. I didn't want to use harsh chemicals, so I decided to experiment with 20 Mule Team Borax. I applied the recommended amount (see link below) on one large patch in my front lawn during the late spring while the CC was still flowering. Although after a few days the CC was visibly burnt, by mid-summer it had come back.
In the early fall, I decided to increase the concentration of the Borax by about 10% and sprayed it on all the worst areas of my lawn where I could see Creeping Charlie. Now it's early summer here, and the CC appears to have been completely eradicated wherever I sprayed, and the grass is lush and green.
If hand-picking CC isn't working for you, I would give this method a try.
Here is the link for the borax recipe that I used: http://www.extension.umn.edu/yardandgarden/ygbriefs/h519borax.html
Oh my gosh I laughed so hard when I read a that someone used to get rid of CC. She used a syringe and started "shooting it up" with bleach that is the funniest thing. I'm going to have to try it now. I'm sure the neighbors will think I've lost it.
Millennium Ultra 1 oz to the gallon up to 2 oz to the gal. You have to use common sense, read the instructions when it comes to animals and pets and proper protection but this will make it go away. My neighbors on both sides of me have it bad and it keeps spreading back from them as it shoots its roots from one flowering plant 6-10 ft and pops up new. This is why it is so hard to stop its roots are underground where you can't see them. My yard is free from creeping charlie other than I have to keep and eye out for strays from the neighbors yard and once a year I spray a 10' swath down each side, lots here are 150' x 700'. When I started the charlie ran all the way across the yard from lot to lot, this stuff works but do your research first as this may not be for you.
Here is a link that might be useful: Millenium Ultra 2
I have lots of creeping Charlies but one thing how can I rid of those where I have 67 peonies and 69 daylillies. Hard time for me to do all because I am over 75 yrs old. Can't do it all the work. That peonies was for years since my mother in law had it during 1950 or before. Now it is getting worse. Please help me!!!! Thank you. Alice
On my way to Mt Everest Base camp, I visited the capital of Lhasa and found CC there- it grows even in the thin oxygen. My brother found it in the deserts of the Middle East. Cockroaches are theorized to be the sole survivors of a nuclear holocaust. I disagree- CC will probably be.
My Master Gardener ex-husband now has stories to tell- I had given up, and put borders around my CC, as if I had planted it on purpose. He got quite a chuckle.
Thanks for the links- I will try the 10% borax recipe and try K31 grass. CC reminds me of the fungus Rhizupus; I've been pulling it out rhizoid by rhizoid.
I have been using Amine 400 (2-4-D)on all weeds for many years now. I first noticed CC in my yard 3 years ago. The 2-4-D definatly works, I'm just getting tired of the CC coming back every year. I am going to try spraying the entire yard (2 acres) in the fall as suggested above. I will not give up the war and will continue the stand off. I hope I live long enough!!
My lawn was full of this weed. One area in particular. I used round-up and killed all of it in that area. I waited and replanted grass seed. No sign of creeping charlie. If I do see a sprout I pick it out of my lawn. I also used Weed B Gon on the whole lawn in a sprayer. No sign of it coming back and the grass is coming in great.


text:
Signup for our Email List and Get
$55 Off your Order
Cannot be combined with other offers or discounts. Minimums apply.
Enter your Email to Get $55off of your First Order Today
Our new 22 oz mood stadium cup changes colors with ice cold liquids, will be printed with your imprint as a great keeper.
This Made in the USA cup is top shelf dishwasher safe, made of durable plastic and available in 10 cool colors. Tick the checkox below to add the optional frosted lid + mood color changing straw set. Ask about our Sun Fun Stadium cup, which changes colors in sunlight
1 - Included In Price
Join the people that are committed to getting you the best product at the best price
Get Social
Sign up & get $55 off your order
(c) 1997 - 2018 PromosOnline.com (718) 888-9858
Factory direct promotional items since 1997


text:
The talk spun out by the yard; the action only inched forward. Last week the Administration:
¶ Placed its first order for medium tanks since World War II: 500 of an "improved" model said to have greater firepower than the Patton M-46, to be built by the American Locomotive Co. of Schenectady "at the earliest possible date."
¶ Canceled the Army's ten-day Christmas furlough for soldiers in training camps. Only Christmas and New Year's will be considered holidays.
¶ Shut off the last trickle of goods to Red China and Manchuria,...
To continue reading: or Log-In


text:
A team of professionals at your service
Our management groups are on hand to answer your questions Monday to Friday, from 9:00 to 17:00
Rental department : +41 (0)58 219 04 04
General enquiries : +41 (0)58 219 00 00
Outside these hours, a sign on the ground floor of your building tells you the procedures and contact numbers in case of emergency.
Registration form
A form according to the type of property
Parking form and private rentals
Valid for all types of goods : CAR PARKS and HOUSING (except subsidized housing)
Regulated housing form
HM/HLM/HBM housing
Explanations on subsidized housing in the canton of Geneva
Commercial premises form
You want to rent an office, arcade, workshop or warehouse
Signing the lease
The signatory(s) to the lease and their guarantor must be present when the lease is signed.
The lease will be signed in our offices. You will need to show ID and your original documents.
The original lease will be sent to you by post once you have moved in to the property.
Supporting evidence to submit your application
· Copy of an ID document (Swiss identity card or passport, residence permit or identity card for foreign nationals)
· Salary certificate or last three payslips
· Solvency certificate issued by the Office for Prosecutions and Bankruptcies of the current place of residence (original document, issued within the previous three months)
· Companies must also provide us with the following documents: their extract from the Commercial Register, a copy of the ID of the company representative(s) and the last two balance sheets and profit and loss accounts (certified by a trustee).
Request an extract from an online Prosecutions Office form


text:
Our four-year-old son Sam is a riot. Perhaps because he is so much younger than our four biological children, he is used to being the center of attention. He is accustomed to his demands and commands being heard and implemented. We all roar laughing when he says, "Wisten to me, here's how it's gonna be…. I want a sammich and some juice box. Den I going to watch Batman." And no, we don't fully comply. Yes, we correct him. Still he says it.
I am really no different than Sam.
I think I am in control…. Continue reading on purposefulfaith.com
May your floors be sticky and your calling ordained! Love, Jami
Watch this week for my new page! Blogging Academy!!!


text:
The bobsled track has the force of a rocket ship and the thrill of a roller coaster. And shooting down a bobsled track feels about as good as being shot out of a cannon.
"You got to be a bit of a speed junkie," bobsledder Ethan Albrecht-Carrie said.
You also have to be is ready for the ride, luger Duncan Kennedy said.
"It's the G forces with the curves, with the banked corners, with the sliding sports. It's really something else and it's a very unique feeling," Kennedy said.
Bobsledding, skeleton and luge, all sports Olympians will compete in during the Vancouver games, are sliding sports that are similar enough to share the same track, one like you find at Mount Van Hoevenberg in Lake Placid, New York.
The sports also share similar scoring systems. There's no judging involved. It's just the slider against the clock. But that's where the parallels end because the athletes, the sleighs and even the way they race are different.
Skeleton racers lead the pack, literally. They take the track head-first.
"The skeleton sled is heavier, has a lower center of gravity, (and is) a little wider. They're on their stomach," says Kennedy.
Racers hit 19 turns, use body control to steer the sleigh, reach speeds in excess of 70 miles per hour and ride solo.
"You have to push yourself to be fast powerful explosive as possible," says Albrecht-Carrie.
Luging looks easier than it is, luger Ashley Walden said.
"You have to steer to get down or you will crash, but if you're constantly steering the sled, you're going to slow down."
Lugers take 17 turns, burning the invisible odometer at close to 80 miles per hour.
Bobsledders ride in two- or four-man crews, take on 20 turns and can speed up to 85 miles per hour. In two man crews, the drive sits in front, keeping an eye on the track and a hand on the brake. The rider also helps break.
"You're pulling 12 G's on some of these things. Astronauts on take off are pulling five, six or seven G's, it's not endured. Split second 10, 12 G's? It doesn't get more intense then that," explains Albrecht-Carrie.
The pressure takes a toll of your body. Still, these athletes train as often as possible. Tucker West, 14, of Ridgefield, Connecticut takes a ride down the track several times a week.
"it's all different all the time the adrenaline the speed," he said.
In Vancouver, the racers with the fastest combined time after four runs wins the gold. For future Olympic hopefuls like West, training is about growing into a pro without losing his inner child.
"Every single run is fun," he said.
It's snow joke: The Vancouver Winter Games are here! Get more Olympics news on Olympic Zone
Fan us on Facebook
Follow us on Twitter


text:
Please support us by voting while game loading. The buttons are hidden after game loaded!
Game Name: Magic Gem
Game author: Ryu
Game played:5985
Magic Gem Codes for MySpace or Blogs:how to add games codes to myspace?
Description & Instructions of Flash Game Magic Gem:
We do not have the instruction of Magic-Gem game temperately