text:
The Gardens
Explore Our Gardens
Red Garden
This is the first garden visitors see on the approach from the Visitor Centre and was designed in the classic Italian Renaissance style, as at "La Mortola", by the Hanburys. In the 1930s the beautiful formal lily pond was edged with Portland stone flags, interplanted with hummocks of thyme and dwarf festucas. Large terracotta pots and amphorae filled with geraniums were placed in Mediterranean fashion at the corners of the pool. At one end there was a delightful summerhouse and the steps leading to a viewing mound and Greek temple at the other.Read More
The lily pool was framed by eight beds neatly edged with dwarf box and exuberantly plated with colourful shrubs and perennials. The four beds closest to the pool were planted with mop head standard fuschias underplanted with mounds of scented silver foliage plants. The outer L-shaped beds were closely planted with plants with striking foliage and flowers such as Kniphofias, Iris germanica, Nicotiana, Heuchera etc. Lady Hanbury used lush plantings of colour and scent to great effect at "La Mortola", especially red. This garden would be planted in a similar manner with warm, bright Mediterranean colours. Today red is still the dominant theme of this garden.
The view from the curved viewing area, facing the road, looks north across the park, down a magnificent avenue of copper beech planted for King George V Silver Jubilee in 1935. This avenue lacks an eyecatcher or focal point at the end – this may be due to Sir Cecil Hanbury having a serious car accident in that year and his death in 1937 halted any further development of the gardens. The deep pool has spreading lily pads of stunning crimson Nymphae 'escarboule' and yellow N. Chromatella waterlillies shading the fish and a striking planting at the temple end of the Umbrella plant Cyperus alternifolius a relative of the Egyptian papyrus reed. The picturesque summerhouse is smothered in Wisteria sinensis with twining silver grey 'sinuous' stems twisting anti-clockwise from a statuesque gnarled trunk. The summerhouse, with its curtain of fragrant lilac mauve flowers, provides an idyllic shady retreat to contemplate the view across the pool to the temple.
The seat and a Canadian maple were given as a memorial to a Canadian pilot of a Lancaster bomber, Flight Sergeant Paul Barske R.C.A.F, who was killed in action in 1943. The surviving crew were all Canadian, except one who became a student at Kingston Maurward. In 1993 the garden was restored and the approach to the temple was redesigned and re-laid with curved Portland stone steps. The Victorian style box 'lawn' and yew edging were also planted at this time, which, when they mature, will restore the garden in the spirit of the original Hanbury garden. A mature Southern beech Nothfagus dombeyi (1980), growing unusually well in chalky soil, spreads its branches over the garden and frames the view from the Temple Mound.
The Temple Mound & The Temple of The Four Winds
This was originally built as the sighting mound for surveying during the construction of the Georgian House. Visitors who climb up to the Temple have a wonderful panoramic view of the gardens and the Dorset countryside, virtually untouched since Thomas Hardy's time. From this raised mound the full beauty of the formal gardens, the structure and the 'rooms' or individual gardens can be seen . The view down from the croquet lawn is in line with the diamond shaped clair-voyee cut in the yew coronet of the Crown Garden.Read More
The temple was constructed from original drawings by Weymouth College masonry students from Portland Stone (1991-5) as a memorial to Ralph Fitzau (1908-1983) and replaces the similar one taken to "La Mortola" by Lady Hanbury in 1938. In 1914 Kingston Maurward was bought by Cecil Hanbury, the son of Sir Thomas Hanbury who had purchased "La Mortola" on the Italian/French border on the Mediterranean. Thomas developed "La Mortola" into the renowned "living museum of flora" visited by Queen Victoria and other royalty and notable figures of the day. In 1903 he presented the 60 acre site of the new garden at Wisley to the Royal Horticultural Society as a trust. Meanwhile Cecil established a student exchange at Kew. Today following a period of decline and neglect "La Mortola" is known as the Hanbury Botanic Garden and belongs to the University of Genoa .
Penstemon Terrace
There are two half hardy beds on either side of the steps to the Red Garden These are planted with a variety of tender perennials, scented geraniums and Euphorbias to provide a wide variety of flower and foliage in typical Edwardian style. A grassy path leads on to the Penstemon Terrace which is protected by dark green yew buttresses and planted with paeonies that blend with billowing sprays of starry Asters providing vertical structure and a foil to the informal drifts of penstemons.Read More
The penstemons form one of the two National Collections held by Kingston Maurward, the other being tender Salvias. Here the visitor can compare and admire varieties from red penstemons 'Chester Scarlet' to purple P.'Sour Grapes', from salmon pink P.'Pennington Gem' to pink P.'Fanny's Blush, blue P.'Margery Fish' and white P.'Osprey'. The border is a kaleidoscope of colour from June right through to October. All the plants are grown at Kingston Maurward from overwintered cuttings and planted out each year. At the end of the terrace the visitor can descend the stone steps to the Rainbow Garden.
The Brick Garden
This Garden lies at the intersection of the two main north south and east west axes. It is a completely enclosed circular garden with neatly clipped box edges geometrically arranged in crescents around a central bed divided by brick paths and surrounded by high yew hedges. The statues are of Henry III, Richard III, Charles II and Queen Anne and originate from the Palace of Westminster (1840).Read More
The circular seat depicting a rising sun, half concealed in a velvety yew arbour was designed and made at Kingston Maurward from trees on the estate. One of the pleasures of a summer's day is to sit there and contemplate the vista along the Terrace Border axis to the Main House.
The Herbaceous Border
Dark velvety green, clipped yew hedges and pillars of yew topiary frame the entrance and lead the visitor from the Brick Garden down the steps into the Herbaceous Border terminated by a stone bird bath. This is the traditional English double herbaceous border densely planted with a rich variety of herbaceous perennials and in true Victorian/Edwardian style was originally designed to be in full glory and a riot of colour in July and August when the owners were in the country.Read More
Today the vast number of species grown (over a hundred) and the careful layering and graduation from front to back of this rich mixture of plants ensures a long season of interest and a continuous performance of flowers from April to October. The double borders are flanked by tall hedges of handsome dark green yew which provide an impenetrable backdrop and the perfect foil for the luxuriant floral display in the foreground. The borders are punctuated by tripods of voluptuous carmine 'American Pillar' roses which complement and add vertical structure to the design.
At the back of the border, structure is provided by plants with architectural and feathery foliage such as the spectacular two metre high silver and purple giant cardoon Cyanara cardunculus, the tall spheres of the purple globe thistle Echinops ritro and the huge mustard discs of Achillea filipendulina 'Gold Plant'. These combine with white clouds of Crambe cordifolia, graceful plumes of Artesimia lactiflora, primrose yellow Cephalaria gigantea, deep yellow Belgian sunflower Helianthus multiflorus 'Triomphe di Gand' and golden coneflower Rudbeckia 'Autumn Sun'.
The Crown Garden
This is the heart of the Edwardian Garden created by Lady Dorothy Hanbury and was formerly the Hanburys' Rose Garden before the roses were removed due to rose sickness. It was named the Crown Garden to represent the clipped coronet of yew planted in Edwardian times with an ornamental stone well as a centrepiece.Read More
The early summer displays of traditional Edwardian cottage garden plants in softly blended hues of pink, blue and mauve of foxgloves, aquilegias, Canterbury bells, sweet williams, Dianthus barbatus, Geranium sanguineum lancastriense, mallows Lavatera olbia 'Rosea' and 'L Barnsley' – all cottage garden favourites! In the inner circle wrought iron hoops festooned with clematis varieties provide vertical accents which mirror the wrought iron decorative arch over the 'well'.
Shrubs of note are the aromatic evergreen Tasmanian Winter's Bark shrub Drimys lanceolata, fragrant Itea ilicifolia and the beautiful ground cover Clematis heracleifolia 'Wyvale' with blue scented tubular flowers in late summer; an evergreen laburnum Vestia foetida from Chile which needs a sheltered spot, an unusual aromatic prickly ash or toothache tree Zanthoxylum americanum whose acrid tasting bark and berries were used by North American Indians to cure toothache, climbing albutilon vitifolium and Lonicera syringantha planted against the backdrop of yew. The 'well' is planted with tender plants in the same pastel colours as the perennials in the rest of the garden – half hardy apricot Diascias, grey green Helichrysum petiolaris Limelight, blue Felicia amelliodes etc.
Visitors should note the diamond shaped claire-voyee, providing a view through to the Temple, dating from the Hanbury era which was rediscovered by the head gardener during restoration of the yew hedge in 1991.
The Japanese Garden
The charming Japanese Garden lies adjacent to the north shore of the lake. There is a feeling of intimacy and harmony in this small garden. The garden contains two stately Chusan palms Trachycarpus fortunei, dating from the beginning of the century, a mature Magnolia denudate – the 'Lily Tree', which is smothered in fragrant white cup shaped blossoms in April, bamboos and dwarf rhododendrons (Blue Bird). Japanese maples include Acer palmatum 'Osakazuki', A.p. 'Senkaki' – the Coral Bark Maple and the crimson A.p. Atropurpureum.Read More
The stream running through the garden is surrounded by moisture loving plants. In summer the elegant, white, waxy swathes of arum lilies Zantedeschia aethiopica, Aspidistra elatior and the shiny leaves of the hart's tongue fern Asplenium scolopendrium. In the shrubbery at the edge of the garden the sweetly scented Clerodendrum trichotomum with its bright blue berries, dwarf lilac Syringa microphylla 'Superba', the intriguing lanterns of the 'Golden Rain Tree' Koelreuteria paniculata and the Hoptree Ptelia trifoliate add further autumn interest.
The symbolic Japanese stone lanterns – Tachi-gata, a pillar lantern and a snow view lantern Yulimi-gata stand at the entrance and exit to the garden. Tsububai, the hand washing basin, is used in ritual Japanese tea ceremonies. Beyond the Japanese Garden the visitor passes the lakeside Grecian Temple, faced in Portland stone but still showing the original Georgian brick fabric.
The Elizabetahn Walled Garden
The observant visitor will note that the Elizabethan builder did not use a spirit level when building the wall and let the courses of brickwork follow the slope of the land! The walled garden was built at the same time as the Elizabethan Manor House and was originally used to grow fruit and vegetables for the household. The previous function of growing fruit and vegetables has now been superseded by a more decorative purpose.Read More
It is laid out as a demonstration garden, exhibiting both practical and ornamental forms of horticulture. The garden is divided into rectangular beds radiating from a central circular bed with wide turf paths defining the areas, similar in design to a French potager or a Victorian kitchen garden. Visitors can see types of immaculately cut demonstration hedges ranging from deciduous purple plum, forsythia, snowy mespilus Amelanchier Canadensis, beech and hornbeam to evergreen pyracantha, Berberis x stenophylla, Lonicera nitida, privet and Viburnum tinus 'Eve Price'.
An eclectic range of demonstration beds feature hardy and half-hardy annuals, perennials, everlasting flowers and shrubberies for different purposes and locations, dahlias, chrysanthemums and sweet peas. At the south end of the garden there are plants for shady north walls, the shrubby salvias from the National Collection, such as S. reptans, S. lyrata, S.bulleyana, tall S nemorosa and S. somaliensis. Other salvias are displayed at the Visitor Centre and the Balustrade Garden, with the least hardy under glass in the cool greenhouse. Trees and shrubs with beautiful spring flowers include from China the fragrant, heavenly bells of the wintersweet Chimonanthus praecox, Sycopsis sinensis, winter honeysuckle Lonicera fragrantissima, Viburnum farreri with pink stems and scented flowers and Cornus mas – the Cornelian cherry. In autumn displays of chrysanthemums, asters and dahlias predominate. Shrubs with berries provide further interest with the deep purple berries of Callicarpa bodinieri and russet foliage and rich blue flowers of the Ceratostigma plumbaginoides.
Around the walls are planted a variety of climbers ranging from the appropriately named winter flowering Clematis cirrhosa 'Freckles' and scarlet Chaenomeles x superb 'Nicoline' on the east facing wall, to Chanomeles speciosa 'Nivalis' and Akebia quinata on the west facing side. The south facing wall supports tender Fremontodendron California Glory, Magnolia grandiflora 'Exmouth', and deep blue Californian lilac Ceanothus Veitchiarus. A south facing lean-to greenhouse formerly a vinery, is home to tropical plants and trees. Banana palms from the Balustrade Terrace winter here beside fragrant grapefruit, orange and lemon trees which bear fruit! A graceful weeping Kashmir Cypress Cupressus cashmeriana grows on the west facing wall. Bird of Paradise flowers Strelitzia regina and Angel's trumpets Datura x candida mingle with Lantana camara 'Rose Bouquet', and 'Professor Raoul '. The orange Clivia miniata and tubular bells of Justicia rizzini should interest the house plant grower, while passion flowers Passiflora racemosa, 'Cup and Saucer' plant Cobaea scadens, Plunbago capensis and the cented Jasminum polyantheum grow against the walls.
The Spring Garden
The Crown Garden leads out from the east side to the Spring Garden, a more informal garden with attractive specimen conifers underplanted with low growing shrubs and ground covered herbaceous perennials. There are beds for lime hating plants which would not normally grow in Kingston Maurward's alkaline conditions with magnolias, camellias and azaleas.Read More
In keeping with the 'natural' woodland appearance of the area, grass is allowed to grow longer under the trees with 'rides' mown between the beds for walking and many varieties of naturalised wild plants growing in taller grass. The visitor will find summer meadow flowers of bird's foot trefoil, campion, ox-eye daisies, speedwell, buttercups, clovers etc. In Spring one of the delights this area are a wonderful display of drifts of primroses, violets, wood anemones and crocus underneath the trees accentuating the impression of a woodland glade. In the autumn the grass is carpeted with ephemeral mauve autumn crocus Crocus speciosus and the pink and white hardy cyclamen Cyclamen hederifolium.
The Secret Garden
The yew hedge on the east side of the Herbaceous Border is traversed by an arch with a path leading directly through the hedge to the Well or Crown Garden, a natural 'wild' area to the left and an Old Rose, Lilac and Iris Border to the right.Read More
The wild garden contains a picturesque seat romantically hidden by a curtain of weeping cherry Prunus autumnalis pendula. Adjacent to this in turn is the Secret Garden, the 'Giodarno Segredo' of Italian gardens, with its throne like stone seat hidden from visitors by intimate yew hedging!
The Croquet Lawn
The croquet lawn is let to Kingston Maurward Association Croquet Club and must be one of the most picturesque venues for this unusual game. Cascading over the rock walls are cushions of rock roses, helianthemum, aubretia and dwarf hypericum, entwined with spreading hummocks of Aylyssum saxatile 'Gold Dust' and rampant pink flowered Oxalis Floribunda.Read More
The deep blue flowers of Ceratostigma plumbaginoides and the red Centranthus ruber (red Valerian) appear through the rocks and everywhere the enchanting pink and white starry flowers of the Mexican daisy Erigeron karvinskianus 'Profusion' are abundant. Trimming the yew hedges and topiary in the formal gardens is a full time job for the gardeners throughout the whole of August!
The Terrace Garden
The broad gravel walk has symmetrical rectangular beds on either side. These are planted with seasonal plants such as polyanthus, heuchara and doronicum in winter and subtle plantings of tender perennials in summer including verbena, diascia, argyranthemum, alonsoa and nemesia. It leads to an impressive, wide flight of Portland stone steps, giving a wonderful prospect over the Balustrade Terrace to the left and the beautifully manicured lawn, sweeping dramatically down to the lake, on the right with the 'borrowed landscape' of rolling Dorset countryside in the distance.Read More
These steps, which feature in an early nineteenth century etching of the house, were probably constructed during the'jardin anglais' Capability Brown landscape period in the eighteenth century and were extended by the Hanburys. They are flanked on either side by classical urns and Italian balustrading swathed in curtains of Vitis vinifiera purpurea and Vitis coignetiae. This broad Lower Terrace dates from the building of the Georgian House and was used as a promenade and seating area from which to view the lake. In Edwardian times there were large wooden tubs of ornamental trees placed along the entire lower terrace in between seats. These are in the process of being rebuilt by horticultural students.


text:
Check Availabilty
Sycamore (Second Floor)
Three Abbey Green – from only £120 per night
Sycamore overlooks Abbey Green, with a delightful view through the topmost boughs of the 200-year-old tree. Furnished with a superking double or twin beds and a cosy sofa, Sycamore is a warm and welcoming room to retreat to at the end of a long day. Please note that the sofa can be converted into a 4′ sofa-bed for a supplementary fee.
Please note this room is in a Georgian building with a grand staircase and no lift.
This room has an en suite bathroom, colour Freeview T.V. and tea/coffee making facilities. All rooms are NON smoking. A computer is provided to allow free internet and printer access at all times for our guests. There is wireless internet access in all guest rooms, which is available without charge. We provide a fridge, accessible to all guests, for chilling drinks.We do not have any single rooms but we will discount the room rate by 10% to reflect single occupancy. A travel cot and bed linen are provided without charge, upon request, for children under two years old. Most rooms will take an extra bed at an additional cost.

subset: commoncrawl


text:
The Spicy Lemonade Diet (Master Cleanse)
Also known as the Master Cleanse, the popular "spicy lemonade" cleanse was developed by physician and natural health author, Elson Haas, MD. Dr. Haas considers the fasting and cleansing process to be the missing link in Western nutrition and the key to good health. His program involves fasting from solid food for a certain period of time while regularly consuming his cleansing formula outlined below.
This lemon cleanse features three key ingredients; 2 tbsp. of fresh lemon juice, a pinch of cayenne pepper and 1 tbsp. of maple syrup, mixed together in 8 ounces of spring water. It is designed to be used as a total liquid fast or cleanse. No solid food should be eaten during the cleanse, only the lemon drink, herbal tea and plenty of water. In addition to drinking the master cleanse formula, Dr. Haas recommends daily exercise, massage and bowel cleansing with salt water flush to further enhance the effects of the cleanse.
Time Frame
Dr. Haas recommends following this cleanse for up to ten days, at least once per year (generally during the spring-time). He recommends beginners start with a shorter cleanse of just a few days, and eventually work their way up to a full ten-day cleanse with the change of seasons. He also notes that those who should not lose excess weight follow a shorter cleansing period.
The Master Cleanse is a powerful internal cleanser. It eliminates excess mucous from the body, cleanses the liver and purges excess waste from the digestive tract. Dr. Haas recommends cleansing as a healing tool and as a way to remove congestion and toxins from the body. It increases energy and vitality and helps strengthen the body to fight off infection.
As with any total fast or internal cleansing program, there are some unpleasant side effects to expect. Many experience increased bowel movements or loose stools. The first two or three days of a fast will typically bring on headaches, back aches, or joint stiffness as well. As toxins are released from the internal organs and expelled through the skin and digestive tract, many develop acne or other eruptions during the final stages of the cleanse. In general, these side effects are temporary and should subside after the cleanse is complete.
Although most individuals can benefit from regular fasting and cleansing, it is not right for everyone. There is debate in the medical community as to the safety and effectiveness of long term fasting and cleansing. However, a study from March 2000 published in the Journal of Manipulative and Physiological Therapeutics reported significant health benefits from 10-11 day fasts in the treatment of high blood pressure 1. Nonetheless, always check with your medical doctor or healthcare practitioner before beginning a cleanse. Never discontinue prescription medication during the cleansing period unless it is recommended by the prescribing physician.
- Daniel Schweinert/Hemera/Getty Images


text:
How to Grow Lavender
Explore this Article Choosing Your Location and Lavender Planting Lavender Maintaining Lavender Article Summary Expert Q&A Related Articles References
There are 26 references cited in this article, which can be found at the bottom of the page.
Easy to grow and easy to appreciate, lavender (lavandula) is a welcome addition to any garden, with its beautiful flowers and wonderful aroma. All you need to grow and maintain this fragrant flowering herb is a suitable spot in the garden and a little horticultural know-how.
Part 1
Choosing Your Location and Lavender
1Choose a well-lit location. Lavender is a Mediterranean herb, so it thrives in hot, sunny locations. Choose a spot in your garden where the plant will receive full sun for at least 8 hours a day. The spot should also be as sheltered as possible to protect the plant from wind.[1]
2Make sure the soil has adequate drainage. Dampness is the enemy of lavender, so your most important consideration should be to choose a location where the soil is well-drained. The soil should be light, fluffy and well-aerated for optimum lavender-growing conditions. [2]
- To improve soil's drainage, you can mix in a little silica sand before planting. Silica sand offers many benefits: it drains well, does not cement, and is very reflective, which helps reflect sunlight onto the plant. This is especially helpful in colder and wetter climates.[3]
- Alternatively, try planting your lavender on a raised bed, at the top of a slope or beside a wall to maximize drainage.[4]
- If growing in a pot, consider setting the pot upon a bed of stones or gravel to optimize drainage
3Check the pH level of the soil. Lavender grows best in slightly alkaline conditions, with an ideal soil pH level of between 6.7 to 7.3.[5] You can test your soil's pH level using a commercial test probe. These are available for purchase at home improvement stores and garden centers.
- If necessary, you can increase the alkalinity of your soil by adding a little lime. The amount you add will depend on your type of soil and the test recommendations.[6]
4Purchase your lavender. There are many species of lavender available for home growing. Whether they flourish or fail will depend on the conditions in the area in which you live. The types of lavender sold at your local nursery or garden center will usually be compatible with your area's conditions, though you can check the label on the plant or ask a nursery employee if you are unsure.[7]
- Munstead and Hidcote Lavender are two especially hardy varieties.
- While it is possible to grow lavender from seeds, this is not recommended as the seeds require scarification and chilling and can take nearly a month to germinate.
Part 2
Planting Lavender
1Water lavender in its nursery pot before planting. You should water the lavender plant in the pot you bought it in, at least an hour before planting. This will ensure that the roots are hydrated, but not damp, before going into the soil.[8]
2Dig a hole big enough for the spread roots. Use a trowel to dig a hole in the location you have chosen for your lavender. The hole should just be deep enough and wide enough to contain the roots when you spread them out.[9]
- If you're planting the lavender in a pot or container, choose a very large pot — the root system for lavender is much larger than the actual plant.[10]
3Prepare the soil. Prepare the soil to receive the lavender and optimize its growing conditions by placing two heaped handfuls of 1-inch (2.5-cm) round stone, along with a 1/2 cup (118 mL) total of lime, well composted manure and bone meal into the hole. Mix well, then cover this blend with a light layer of soil.[11]
- The stone will help with drainage, the lime will alkalize the soil, while the bone meal and fertilizer will help to get your lavender plant off to a good start.[12]
4Prune the lavender. Lightly prune your lavender before planting. This will give the plant shape, ensure good air circulation through the stems, encourage new growth, and prevent the center of the stems from becoming woody, which is a common problem with lavender. Good airflow is especially important if you live in a more humid climate.[13][14]
5Prepare the roots. Remove the lavender plant from its nursing pot and gently shake to remove any excess soil from the roots. The lavender should be planted into its new home with bare roots, to ensure it quickly and easily adapts to its new growing environment.[15]
6Plant the lavender. Carefully place the lavender plant into its prepared spot and rest it on a layer of soil slightly above the stone blend you mixed earlier. Make sure the roots do not come in direct contact with the blend. Fill in any extra space around and above the lavender's roots with soil, lightly patting it into place around the base of the stems.[16]
- If you're planting more than one lavender plant, leave about 36 inches (91.4 cm) between each plant. This will guarantee good air circulation and allow the lavender space to grow.[17]
Part 3
Maintaining Lavender
1Fertilize the soil once a year. Lavender is a fairly low-maintenance plant and will only need to be fertilized once a year, if that. Use a light top dressing of mixed compost and bone meal, sometime in early spring.[18]
- An ideal time to fertilize your newly planted lavender is after the first watering. Allow the soil to dry, then apply the fertilizer.
2Water sparingly. As mentioned before, dampness is the enemy of lavender and if the roots of the plant become excessively damp, it will kill the plant quicker than any drought or freezing temperatures. In fact, over-watering new lavender plants in spring is the main cause of growth failure. Once the lavender is planted, deeply water it every 7 to 10 days.[19]
- To achieve the proper level of watering, make sure that the soil dries between each watering; however the plant itself should not be allowed to become dehydrated.[20]
- If you are growing lavender in a Northern climate, you will water the plant very sparingly until the summer, when temperatures can skyrocket and dry out the soil. You will then want to begin watering the plant every 7 to 10 days.
- If you're growing lavender in a pot, make sure the pot has excellent drainage to prevent water from pooling at the bottom.
3Prevent weeds. You can prevent weeds from growing around the base of your lavender plant by covering the soil with a thin layer of mulch. Use a light-colored mulch, such as coarse sand, gravel, or oyster shells.[21] Mulch will also help to protect the plant's roots from winter frosts.
- Do not use wood mulch, which will retain moisture and can lead to root rot.
4Prune the lavender plant. You should prune your lavender plant about once a year, preferably in spring before the new growth begins. You should prune about one third to one half of the plant when it shows new spring growth. Use pruning shears or hedge trimmer to achieve a tidy, rounded shape.[22]
- New growth looks like long, thin legs sprouting from the leafing branches. The plant will also begin to form blooms. This is also a good time to fertilize the plant.
- Pruning your lavender will encourage new growth and stop the plant from breaking open and sprawling.
- Just make sure not to over-prune your lavender as this may kill new growth altogether.
5Protect the plant from pests and disease. Two most common pests that affect the lavender plant are whiteflies and spittle bugs. Both can be removed by hand or with a steady stream of water. Check the lavender periodically for reinfestation.
- Aphids can spread a virus known as the Alfalfa mosaic virus which affects growth and blooming of the plant. Remove any affected foliage and burn it. Be sure to sterilize all gardening tools with disinfectant, chlorine bleach, or isopropyl alcohol to stop the spread of the virus, too.[23]
6Harvest the flowers. The best time to harvest fresh lavender is when the bottom flowers of each stem are just beginning to open. This is when the lavender is at its most vibrant and fragrant. Cut the flowers at the base of the stems, near the foliage. Then, Prune the plant back to the new growth leaves. This may encourage your plant to bloom a second time, in the fall.[24]
- If all or most of the blooms have opened on the lavender plant, then it is too late to harvest for herbal purposes. If you plan to dry the lavender, harvest when about 3/4 of the blooms have opened.
- If you want to decorate your house with lavender, place the flowers in a vase, but do not put the roots in water. This just causes the flowers to fall off faster and makes the stems mushy.[25]
7Dry the lavender, if desired. To dry lavender, bundle about a hundred of the flowers together and tie the bundle with a rubber band. Hang the bundle indoors in a warm, dark and dry location, suspended upside down from a nail, for about 10 to 14 days.[26]
- If you wish to remove the dried lavender from the woody stems, you can roll the bundle on a metal screen placed over a bucket. This is called "garbling" the lavender.
Community Q&A
QuestionHow much sun does lavender need to grow?Lavender does not tolerate shade, in fact a lavender plant needs full sun exposure.
QuestionCan you have lavender plants indoors?Yes lavender can be grown very well indoors. This would be done with containers.
QuestionWhat is the best time of year to plant lavender?The best time of year to plant lavender is mid autumn, usually sometime in October.
QuestionIs a lavender plant an annual or perennial?Depending on the growing climate, different varieties of lavender are considered annual and perennial.
QuestionDoes lavender prefer sun or shade?Lavender prefers sun over shade. Plant it or place the pot in a hot location that receives at least 8 hours of sun per day.
QuestionCan several types of dried lavender be mixed together?Yes, you can mix various kinds of dried lavender together. If you are using lavender for potpourri or scented sachet packet, mixing them will only make the smell intense and sweeter.
QuestionWhat is the fish emulsion food brand name for fertilizer?Community AnswerSeasol or a liquid fertilizer that will say on the label that it's a fish emulsion.
QuestionIs it possible to grow lavender in a tropical country like the Philippines?Community AnswerIt is but you do need to be careful about the soil -- lavender does not cope well with waterlogged soil, so if you get a lot of rain, you'd need to grow the lavender under a cover, in a container or ensure that the soil drains rapidly. English lavender can tolerate warmth quite well. Truly, your best bet is to have it in a container that can be moved around in order to ensure it is in the right spot, especially if there is heavy or monsoonal rain.
QuestionIs it bothered by gophers?Community AnswerAccording to online research, many gardeners have reported that gophers leave all of their lavender plants well alone. They may well dislike the fragrance. Give it a try!
QuestionWhen is the best time of year to grow lavender?Community AnswerThe best time of year to grow lavender is fall. Lavender requires low to moderate rainfall and moderate sunlight to thrive when planted, so October's less intense sun and moderate rainfall make it an optimal season for planting lavender. Also, make sure you use well-draining soil when planting lavender.
- Foliage typically ranges from dusty green to silvery gray and a few species have bright chartreuse leaves. Not all types are readily available, but may need researching through mail order web sites or seed catalogs.
- The lavender blooms come in midsummer and range from lavender-hued gray to a vibrant royal purple. There are also species with blooms in other colors: white, pink, and a yellow-green. The flowers themselves are small, sometimes bud-like but open and full on others, and they grow up the spiky stems.
- A perennial, lavender grows from 1 to 3 feet (0.3 to 0.9 m) tall, depending on the variety. It needs at least six hours of direct sun each day, more is better. Lavender plants grow in hardiness zones 5 through 10 and are planted about 15 inches (38.1 cm) apart.
- Lavender's older stems are woody, and the plant does not divide as easily as many perennials. If moving is necessary, lift the plant in spring just after new growth has started and replant immediately. The plant can be propagated by layering.
- Some varieties of lavender can be grown from seeds (especially variety "Munstead"), or pots of live plants can be purchased in the spring. Favorite varieties include "Grosso," "Provence," "Royal Purple," "Gray Lady," and "Hidcote."
- Lavender is susceptible to root rot. To avoid this, never over-water your lavender plants and keep winter watering to a minimum.
- ↑ http://www.hgtv.com/outdoors/flowers-and-plants/herbs/10-tips-for-growing-lavender
- ↑ http://www.hgtv.com/outdoors/flowers-and-plants/herbs/10-tips-for-growing-lavender
- ↑ http://bonnieplants.com/growing/growing-lavender/
- ↑ http://bonnieplants.com/growing/growing-lavender/
- ↑ http://bonnieplants.com/growing/growing-lavender/
- ↑ http://yardcare.toro.com/restore/restoring-a-tired-lawn/step-3-adjust-your-soils-ph/
- ↑ http://sunshinelavenderfarm.com/planting.php
- ↑ http://sunshinelavenderfarm.com/planting.php
- ↑ http://www.sunset.com/garden/flowers-plants/guide-planting-care-harvesting-lavender
- ↑ http://www.sunset.com/garden/flowers-plants/guide-planting-care-harvesting-lavender
- ↑ http://sunshinelavenderfarm.com/planting.php
- ↑ http://sunshinelavenderfarm.com/planting.php
- ↑ http://www.sunset.com/garden/flowers-plants/guide-planting-care-harvesting-lavender
- ↑ http://www.more.com/beauty/makeup/eye-makeup/how-make-your-eyes-look-bigger-makeup
- ↑ http://sunshinelavenderfarm.com/planting.php
- ↑ http://sunshinelavenderfarm.com/planting.php
- ↑ http://sunshinelavenderfarm.com/planting.php
- ↑ https://purplehazelavender.com/lavender/growing-lavender/
- ↑ https://purplehazelavender.com/lavender/growing-lavender/
- ↑ https://purplehazelavender.com/lavender/growing-lavender/
- ↑ http://sunshinelavenderfarm.com/planting.php
- ↑ https://purplehazelavender.com/lavender/growing-lavender/
- ↑ http://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/care/tools-and-equipment/disinfecting-tools.html
- ↑ http://sunshinelavenderfarm.com/planting.php
- ↑ http://sunshinelavenderfarm.com/planting.php
- ↑ http://sunshinelavenderfarm.com/planting.php
Article SummaryX
To grow lavender, start by digging a hole in a spot with good drainage and full sun. Then, line the base of the hole with a mix of lime, manure, and bone meal. An hour before you transfer the lavender from its pot, water it so that the roots are hydrated, but not wet. Just before you plant the lavender, remove it gently from its pot and shake the soil from the roots. Next, place the plant in the hole you prepared and cover the roots with soil. Finally, cover the area with mulch to prevent weeds and water the lavender every 10 days. To learn how to harvest flowers from your lavender plant, read on.
Article Info
Categories: Growing Lavender
In other languages:
Italiano: Coltivare la Lavanda, Français: cultiver de la lavande, Deutsch: Lavendel anbauen, Español: cultivar lavanda, 中文: 种植薰衣草, Português: Cultivar Lavanda, Русский: вырастить лаванду, Bahasa Indonesia: Menanam Lavender, Nederlands: Lavendel verzorgen, العربية: زراعة الخزامي, Tiếng Việt: Trồng hoa oải hương, 日本語: ラベンダーを育てる


text:
by Jim Loew
A positive and a positive is a positive. Remember that from your high school math class? This lesson is relevant as Riverwests popular Center Street Daze and RockerBox MotoFest are joining forces and converging into one big festival this year. The extravaganza will take place Saturday, September 23. With this partnership, the event will extend along Center Street all the way across the neighborhood, from Humboldt to Holton.
Dream big, is what this years coordinator, Jeff Platt, said to those participating in the planning of the event. There are going to be seven live music stages, with over 25 bands, he announced.
The RockerBox MotoFest portion will feature a British, Japanese and vintage motorcycle show and competition, plus motorcycle vendors. Bikes on display will begin setting up about 11 am.
By noon, the Center Street Push Cart Races are scheduled to begin. According to Sparky (race coordinator Mark Lawson), the push cart races are now in their sixth year. It used to kick off the Art Walk event, said Lawson, but combining with the Center Street event was a better logistic fit. Because many of the Push Cart creators are also neighborhood artists, no one had enough time to put a cart together and prepare for Art Walk. So the push cart races were incorporated into Center Street Daze with much improved results.
Even though Lawson puts out flyers advertising the races, he never knows until the day of the event how many people will be participating. There is no entrance fee, said Lawson. There arent really any rules either. The only rule is that there cant be a motor, Lawson said. The carts must be pushed or pulled.
Winners are judged in three categories. One, we judge for speed; two, imagination; and three, the pluckiest cart, said Lawson. Pluckiest as in sheer funniness, weirdness, Lawson said with a laugh. We also give trophies. Winners are chosen by a panel of celebrity judges, some of whom are actually famous, or at least notorious.
After the push cart races, therell be plenty to do at the festival. The Uptowner will once again host the Eddie Favorite Outdoor Pool Tournament. The House of Frank N Stein will host a hotdog-eating contest, which organizers hope will be recognized by the International Food Eating Competitors. Itll include the hotdog and the bun, said Platt.
New this year will be the Brew City Bruisers roller derby team leasing the Milwaukee Public Schools skate van and hosting a skate clinic. In addition, therell be face painting and sidewalk chalk for the kids.
This year, though, look for a diverse selection of food. We want to get away from the hamburger and hot dog mentality, said Platt. Instead, look for Persian and Puerto Rican dishes, Virginiastyle pulled-pork sandwiches, perch, catfish, turkey drumsticks and plenty of barbeque. Another new addition will be the Milwaukee Beer Barons homebrew competition and demonstration.
I was merely point man for all this, said Platt, summarizing his role. This came about through weekly group meetings. This group made a lot of things happen.
Riverwest Currents online edition – September, 2006


text:
Rohde & Schwarz have added a 4 GHz model to their R&S RTO family of high performance oscilloscopes. With a sampling rate of 20 Gsample/s, the new instrument can handle various data interfaces at data rates up to 1.6 Gbps and is suitable for checking clock signals up to 800 MHz. An extremely low-noise front end allows the full measurement bandwidth of 4 GHz to be used even at the highest vertical sensitivity of 1 mV/div. The oscilloscope has a 10.4 inch touchscreen display with semi-transparent dialog boxes, drag-and-drop measurement windows, a configurable toolbar and preview icons with live waveforms.
A 10 GHz single-core A/D converter provides an excellent dynamic range with an ENOB greater than 7 bits. Another unique feature is the unprecedented high acquisition and analysis rate of 1 million waveforms per second. The digital trigger system allows users to accurately pinpoint narrow glitches as short as 50 ps, and adjustable trigger hysteresis allows users to match trigger sensitivity to signal characteristics.
The combination of FFT analysis, large dynamic range and 4 GHz bandwith makes the R&S RTO1044 suitable for frequency domain measurements. In circuit design verification and debugging applications, even sporadic EMI interference sources can be reliably detected. The spectra of up to four RF signals can be observed in parallel with phase coherence.
Image: Rohde & Schwarz


text:
Her motto? "create while having fun". Muse opens her home and studio to Lancôme in this exclusive interview.
Celebrated blogger Elsa Muse loves nothing better than designing and making objects that are inspired by the people she's met.
Don't let fatigue get to your skin
Lancôme's latest skincare line promises to help city dwellers get through busy days, without flagging. Energie de Vie makes no compromises. Read more.
Juicy Shaker's cushion applicator is simply perfect!
Juicy Shaker's cushion applicator is simply perfect - and for good reason: its conical shape works perfectly with the natural curve of the lips.
When cleansing isn't quite enough after a late night
Your mother always told you never to go to bed in your makeup and she was right. Now discover why cleansing isn't quite enough after a late night via Lancome.


text:
Important Car Safety Features That Can Protect You in a Crash
According to the U.S. Department of Transportation, there were 37,461 people killed in car accidents on U.S. roadways in 2016, which is an increase from 35,485 in 2015. No matter how responsible and safe you are on the road, you cannot control the actions of other motorists.
Fortunately, auto manufacturers have developed better technology and safety features that may help drivers and their passengers avoid injuries or death in a devastating collision.
The following are several car safety features which can save your life:
- Airbags – According to the Insurance Institute for Highway Safety (IIHS), frontal airbags lower the risk of motorist deaths by 29% and they reduce the risk of death for front passengers ages 13 and older by 30%. Furthermore, most modern vehicles are equipped with side airbags, increasing the protection of drivers and passengers alike.
- Antilock brake system (ABS) – ABS will prevent a car's wheels from locking up in the event of panicked or severe braking, increasing the driver's ability to control and maneuver around a hazard.
- All-wheel drive – Vehicles equipped with all-wheel drive have balanced power going to both the front and rear wheels, providing increased control and traction.
- Traction control – Traction control prevents your wheels from slipping when you accelerate and adjust your vehicle's power output and acceleration for better control.
- Stability control – This system will detect if the car is under-steering or over-steering and will automatically apply brakes to one side in order to keep the vehicle going straight.
- Tire-pressure monitoring system (TPMS) – This system is designed to monitor the air pressure inside the pneumatic tires on various types of vehicles. TPMS report real-time tire-pressure information to the driver of the vehicle, either via a gauge, a pictogram display, or a simple low-pressure warning light.
- Headrests – Not only are they just for comfort and aesthetics, but their main purpose is to prevent neck injuries. Make sure you adjust the height of the headrest so your head rests comfortably at the center of the headrest pad. Also make sure your vehicle has headrests in the back seat.
If you have been injured in a car accident caused by a negligent driver, contact our Florida personal injury lawyers at The Pittman Firm, P.A. today.


text:
The VISTA is a performance stroller system with a variety of configurations and maneuvers like a single stroller with the ability to adapt as a family grows. New 2018 features include an extended bassinet, front wheel design, and 100% premium leather accents on all fashions.
The VISTA is designed to adapt as your family grows. Only its enhancements adjust to changes in life's momentum – be it weather, terrain or life stage – even better than its predecessor. The VISTA can comfortably hold two MESA Infant Car Seats and then it can adapt to two toddler seats (rear or forward facing) plus a PiggyBack! – All the while strolling like a single.
- One-step fold, is super easy and intuitive
- Expandable seat selections that allow for two rear and forward facing, reclining toddler seats, two MESA infant car seats, two bassinets and countless other combinations
- Bassinet with zip-out liner and boot cover are easy to remove and clean. Perforated mattress pad and vented base allow for added breathability, ventilated canopy, and extendable SPF 50+ sunshade.
- Combines aluminum with magnesium for optimal lightweight, durable performance
- Includes both Bassinet and Toddler Seat – completely interchangeable and requires no fabric swapping
- Performance Travel System compatible with MESA Infant Car Seat – direct attachment, no adapters necessary
- X-Large easy-access basket with 30 lb. weight limit
- Shock-absorbing front & rear suspension
- Full size front and rear facing toddler seat
- 180-degree recline with one hand
- Extendable SPF 50+ sunshade
- Adjustable canopy
- One-button telescoping handlebar
- All-weather protection with included Toddler Seat Rain Shield and Bug Shield
- Open Dimensions: 37 L x 25.5 W x 39.5 H
- Folded with seat attached: 14 L x 25.5 W x 33 H
- Folded without seat attached: 13.5 L x 25.5 W x 33 H
- Frame + Seat: 26.6 lbs
- Frame: 19.3 lbs
- Seat: 7.3 lbs
- Bassinet: 8.4 lbs


text:
General Purpose Resins, Fillers & Solvents
Our polyester and epoxy resin brands are used extensively in the marine, auto, aerospace and mold making industries as well as for general repair, tooling and fabricating. Our resins are complimented by a range of filling and fairing powders, thinners and release agents for any size job. We also stock polyester Gelcoats and Flowcoats in standard white for finishing, mold surfacing and general repairs and a neutral base Gelcoat that can be pigmented using any of our Epoxy and Polyester compatible colors.


text:
The EuTRiPD consortium proudly presents its follow-up programme, IMPROVE-PD, a project funded by the Horizon 2020 Framework Programme under the initiative Marie Sklodowska-Curie Innovative Training Networks.
IMPROVE-PD will continue to provide training opportunities for young researchers and connect leading academic and industrial researchers who will collaborate in the shared goal of understanding the mechanisms of
inflammation-driven cardiovascular disease in Peritoneal Dialysis (PD) patients, developing individualized approaches to identify those at risk, and testing new therapies in them.
The project's kick-off meeting took place in Madrid on January 25, 2019. The principal investigators and future supervisors of the early stage researchers (ESRs) to be hired in IMPROVE-PD met to discuss the common work-plan and recruiting strategy.
Visit the IMPROVE-PD website: http://www.improvepd.eu


text:
Buragate Wood Desk Shell by Latitude Run New Design
Reference: d3a7342c1aaf05bfcd5def7515396729
Read reviews (456 ) Write a review
Sale Sale
Buragate Wood Desk Shell product by Latitude Run
Lend a touch of style to any room with the classic Desk Shell. This desk has a plain structure that helps it easily blend with any decor style and setting. This writing desk is constructed from manufactured wood that enhances its sturdiness and reliability. It is available in various gorgeous finishes to choose from that will lend a style statement in your room. This industrial desk has a spacious top that gives you enough space to keep your computer or writing material. The cable management...
- Base Material: Wood
- Assembly Required: Yes
- Security policy (edit with Customer reassurance module)
- Delivery policy (edit with Customer reassurance module)
- Return policy (edit with Customer reassurance module)