text:
No other company in the mobile sphere has done quite as good a job of courting mobile app developers as Apple. While part of the reason iOS has by far the largest library of apps still is due to the inherent ease of Objective-C, a major part is the effort Apple puts into winning over developers. It still has yet to translate that success to the personal computer side, though, where its software selection is still a little sparse.
On Thursday, Apple released a preview build of its upcoming next-generation personal computer operating system: OS X 10.7, "Lion". Apple appears very conscious of its greater mobile success, as Lion is very different than its predecessor Snow Leopard.
The new OS reads like an effort to bring iOS to the desktop. Apple puts it [press release] as taking "some of the best ideas from iPad and brings them back to the Mac."
The result is an OS that's built around the new Mac OS X app store and multi-touch. A new Launchpad offers the ability for users to arrange and run apps much like they would in iOS.
A new feature dubbed Mission Control allows users to use multi-touch input to preview and switch between running apps. Describes Apple:
Mission Control is a powerful, entirely new feature that unifies Exposé®, Dashboard, Spaces, and full screen apps to give you a bird's eye view of every app and window running on your Mac. With a simple swipe, your desktop zooms out to display your open windows grouped by app, thumbnails of your full screen apps as well as your Dashboard, and allows you to instantly navigate anywhere with a click.
Apple is convinced that developers will love what it's cooking up and will embrace OS X, much as they have iOS. States Apple, "Developers are going to love Mission Control and Launchpad, and can now start adding great new Lion features like full screen, gestures, Versions and Auto Save to their own apps."
There's already a bit of momentum when it comes to gaming on the Mac. If Apple can truly convince a large number of iOS developers to make OS X apps that could be very good news indeed for the trendy gadget maker, as a broader app library would help make more a compelling case for prospective customers to buy a Mac.


text:
Richard Dante
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Richard Dante on Smashwords
Copyright © 2010 by Richard Dante
All rights reserved. Without limiting the rights under copyright reserved above, no part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in or introduced into a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form, or by any means (electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise) without the prior written permission of both the copyright owner and the above publisher of this book.
This is a work of fiction. Names, characters, places, brands, media, and incidents are either the product of the author's imagination or are used fictitiously. The author acknowledges the trademarked status and trademark owners of various products referenced in this work of fiction, which have been used without permission. The publication/use of these trademarks is not authorized, associated with, or sponsored by the trademark owners.
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subset: commoncrawl


text:
Quickbooks POS Antioch, South Carolina
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- Make customer messages with our new Microsoft Word® integration
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- Get access to all administrative data by personal authorization
- Upload all data from your POS System to QuickBooks by one click
- Combine multi-store details


text:
From Openmoko
GPS is a satellite based positioning system. Assisted GPS, or A-GPS was introduced to enhance performance.
Conventional GPS had difficulty providing reliable positions in environments surrounded by tall buildings - the so-called 'urban canyon', as well as indoors and under heavy tree cover.
Under these conditions, the GPS signal is often of very poor quality, making it hard for receivers to obtain a position. In addition, when first turned on in these conditions, a non-A-GPS may not be able to download the orbital information from the GPS satellites, rendering it unable to function until it has a clear signal for around one minute.
An A-GPS receiver can address these problems in several ways, using an Assistance Server:
- The Assistance Server has a good satellite signal, and lots of computation power, so it can compare fragmentary signals relayed to it by cell phones, with the satellite signal it receives directly, and then inform the cell phone or emergency services of the cell phone's position.
- It can supply orbital data for the GPS satellites to the cell phone, enabling the cell phone to lock to the satellites when it otherwise could not, and autonomously calculate its position.
- It can have better knowledge of ionospheric conditions and other errors affecting the GPS signal than the cell phone alone, enabling more precise calculation of position.
The AGPS chip in the Neo1973 is called Hammerhead, and it is the same chip used in TomTom one devices, which incidentally run Linux, too. See Hammerhead/Protocol. GTA01 hardware needs a userland binary-only driver called gllin for Hammerhead to work.
With AGPS, the Hammerhead brief information page specifies 1s fix time for a position with 5m error.
According to the Openmoko hardware devel list the GTA02 hardware has fully open-source gps software stack and does not need any binary driver.
AGPS is purely a marketing term. To calculate the position a GPS chip needs:
- almanac = coarse position of satellites
- ephemeris = precise position of satellites
The almanac is broadcast in a loop of 12.5 minutes and nominally valid for a week but could in general be used for several weeks. The ephemeris is broadcast in a loop of 30 seconds and valid for 4 hours, 2h before and after the time of applicability.
Receiver chipsets store this data in flash and load it from there onto the chip in order to _assist_ the hot or warm start.
One form of AGPS is simply to get this data from elsewhere. Over the internet, or through a dedicated connection, to avoid the 30s or more downloading it from the satellites would take.
The supplied binary driver software for the Hammerhead in the Neo1973 supports only downloading data similar to the almanac from a site provided by Global Locate, paid for by license fee on the chip.
An open-source driver, in companion with Server:A-GPS may do any of the solutions mentioned at the beginning.
The amount of data needed is small - 0.5K/day or so.
If the spot you charge your neo happens to have a GPS signal, downloading the almanac from the satellites while it charges is essentially free, and takes no Internet access at all. Do this daily, and you get most of the benefit of AGPS.
Q: What is DGPS, can DGPS and A-GPS work together?
A: An overview of DGPS Differential GPS is basically a way of removing systematic per-satellite errors from various causes (satellite clock drift, atmospheric effects) for 'nearby' receivers, given one receiver that knows where it is.
The per-satellite range errors to a satellite are around 2-3 metres typically. These per-satellite errors are similar for users close to each other. These corrections are broadcast by radio in much of the USA (which the neo cannot pick up).
If you can download error information from a nearby source, then you can obtain positions that are much more accurate than without this information. Perhaps well under 1m radius of error, instead of 2 or 3. In some applications this may be of use.
It may be that the apgsd cannot do this, and it will require reverse engineering.
In any case, this would be another few hundred bytes a minute while this is active. (the error information rapidly ages).
Any stationary receiver - even a neo on charge, with a good signal, can produce useful error information. If it had a cheap internet connection at the same time, it could be constantly updating a global error model, for use by other neo owners.
It may be that the apgsd cannot do this, and it will require reverse engineering.
Q: What is WAAS, can WAAS and A-GPS work together?
A: WAAS stands for Wide Area Augmentation system; it is the US implementation of a DGPS technique that works over continental wide areas: SBAS or Satellite Based Augmentation System. SBAS differs from local DGPS in that the correction signals are transmitted by other GPS-compatible geo-stationary satellites (nicked named GEO). To date, there are three implementations of SBAS:
- WAAS for the united states
- EGNOS for Europe
- MSAS for India
Thanks to a much better ionospheric model, an SBAS enabled GPS receiver will offer a much more accurate position than GPS in standalone mode (down to 1 meter accuracy). As with GPS, the GEO satellites have unique identifier called PRN or SVID. GPS satellites PRN are numbered from 1 to 50 (current maximum is 32) and GEO satellites start at PRN 120. The reception of SBAS messages requires that the device locks one of the GEO satellites. In theory it is possible to get those SBAS messages (i.e. in the internet as for Almanacs and Ephemeris using A-GPS) but this method is not standardized and the Neo Ublox AGPS is most certainly not able to work that way. If such a technique was implemented, it would enter the definition of A-GPS but A-GPS is not directly related to WAAS.
Q: Is an open-source GPS daemon able to be distributed by FIC?
While stupid, this defines
... GPS receiving equipment with any of the following characteristics: ...
(2) Designed for producing navigation results above 60,000 feet altitude and at 1,000 knots velocity or greater;
as being a munition. This is right after the section prohibiting rockets that can be used to deorbit satellites on a specific target, and just before nuclear weapons design and test equipment.
And just because it's stupid doesn't mean they won't kick the doors in - or prevent it from sale and levy huge fines, after the gleefull lawyers at Apple point it out. (you need DOD licenses to import/export)
The plugin for the gpsd daemon presumably implements this limit.
Much established hardware has pretty much confirmed that it's OK to do it this way - as long as it's closed source, you can point at the evil hackers, and say that you never did it.
An open source plugin for gpsd distributed with the neo might raise other issues, namely that at some point in the code, there is a self-documented if(velocity>1000kt) test, which can be trivially commented out. (the hardware must be able to do this, the velocity of a satellite towards and away from the user greatly exceeds 1000 knots.)
If I was FIC, I would at the very least want a good legal opinion on if an open source gpsd plugin (perhaps a user contributed one after decoding the binary stream that the hammerhead puts out) can be safely distributed, before doing so.
--Morricone 11:15, 16 February 2007 (CET) You forget, that FIC is not located in the USA, so US laws do not apply.
Very true, however, this would mean that it could not be imported into the US. Also that anyone from FIC involved in this could not travel to the US without fear of arrest. The penalties are really quite high. --Speedevil 14:10, 16 February 2007 (CET)
Isn't this resriction implemented in the chipset? wouldn't the chipset itself be illegal in the US without these restrictions? --Kiney 22:20, 14 March 2007 (CET)
The chipset is too dumb. It does not know the position or the velocity. This is only computed in the host CPU. --Speedevil 06:17, 25 March 2007 (CEST)
The chipset has to be able to correlate signals in a much shorter time at high velocity. This can't be done by sw-driver. Even if you could post-process raw data in sw, it would never yield the up to date velocity and speed, and for DOD it's not critical if the device can tell where and how fast it was 30sec ago, as you can't guide missiles this way.
Exactly that's why the chipset isn't restricted by this law - DOD regulations would never allow to sell "dangerous" hw that's "secured" by a security-by-obscurity-driver only. Otherwise atomic bombs would be free to sell, as long as you don't deliver the activation code ;-)
The whole crux around closed source drivers is same as it ever was: royalties and warranty. (even GSM fw is closed mainly due to warranty reasons)
--jOERG 06:00, 2008-10-07 (CEST)
However, there must be some code/license bypass to this.
I'm not supporting license and restriction violation, but legal way to provide opensource gpsd.
For example:
1) put gpsd in for example LGPL, then provide restriction module as a must, and put module under license that allows open source code, but doesn't allow changes that will break gps module usage restrictions - this way gpsd works, and all restrictions are preserved.
2) Put gpsd into GPL with explicit restriction on code forks that change restriction.
3) Make an end-user license agreement that he will not use it above 60000ft, and 1000knots.
4) mixture of 1,2,3 <snip> If you can't solve restrictions, transfer it. --Milos 13:17, 27 July2007 (CEST)
License restrictions won't work. The legislation does not say "A GPS receiver capable of...unless it is restricted by license". The question is simple: Would hardware distributed with open-source software that effectively has the "unrestrict" switch documented fall under the definitions of a GPS receiver within the meaning of the legislation. If it does, then FIC simply can't distribute it (at least within the USA).
If it doesn't, then there is no problem.
However, this is only plausibly answerable by a lawyer specialising in ITAR.
The (snipped) analogy to guns is not correct - the correct analogy is to devices that might or might not be nuclear weapons test equipment. That's what this bit of law also deals with.
Anyway. The closed-source daemon works just fine (mostly). It can be wrapped in a chroot for the paranoid, but simply distributing this will work for the medium term. If users choose to install other drivers, that's their problem. --Speedevil 15:34, 28 June 2007 (CEST)
The open-source driver could very well be available online, and FIC can just ship the binary with the Neo1973. Since there already is NMEA information available, producing a very stable open-source GPS driver may take awhile. Some users (not developers) may not care how the GPS information is acquired, as long as it just "works". As a marketing perspective, it would be nice to say that the Neo1973 software is completely open source...
The ITAR legislation may not apply, considering the phone is currently not "Designed for producing navigation results above 60,000 feet altitude and at 1,000 knots velocity or greater;"
--Ciphercast 04:26, 22 July 2007 (CEST)
I would choose to implement "artificial" software design limits, i.e. choose data types/data rages that only allow for lets say 32'000 feet height or 512 knots per second. That would not break daily use (512 knots = 589 Miles or mach 0,8) and no "function" to circumvent the limits would be documented with the product or the product source. A "hacker" would be needed to change the source, recompile, relink and repackage it, not mentioning the possible breaking of some/all apps. Assuming that "designed for" does not mean you have to actively protect against missusage, like using a magic key in the bus protocol, you should be compliant to to the law if you keep the source code straight, i.e. do not point this out. --Memed 22:46, 2 February 2008 (CET)
This is unlikely to be an issue in the GTA02 as the GPS receiver module should take care of it. The GTA02 uses a ATR0635 and on page 9 of the datasheet (Table 3-1: Performance Specification) states the module is limited to "Altitude 18,000 m Velocity 515 m/s One of the limits may be exceeded but not both." - in other words, the chip solves the GPS equations, and if the user's speed and velocity exceed the ITER-imposed limits it will stop outputting a fix. The datasheet does not specify exactly how the chip will behave in this situation, but most likely the serial NMEA data output will change the 'fix quality' value to 'invalid' and zero or stop updating the other parameters in the NMEA data. The practical upshot of this is: The closed-source GPS module's software takes care of ITAR compliance. Mike1024 17:25, 19 July 2008 (UTC)


text:
#72063 - CONE WASHER 3.0mm/4-40 FLATHEAD (PURPLE/6pcs)
Add some colour and flash to your ride with purple anodized aluminium cone washers from HPI! Replace standard button head or cap head screws with countersunk screws combined with these cone washers to spread the load of the screw head and make your car or truck stand out a bit from the crowd. Supplied in packs of six for convenient fitting. Fits M3 screws only.


text:
Is Your Automation Rate as Good as it's Going to Get? Think Again…
Most banks set up a contact center strategy and then leave it be, when they should be constantly looking to improve it. Here are 10 steps banks can take to optimize their customer experience with the contact center.
Paul Logan, Contact Solutions
Your customer puzzle is likely missing pieces and it's those missing pieces that could be the difference between delivering customer service that is only passable, and that which is absolutely exceptional.
Integral to the success of every financial institution is knowing how to properly mine and utilize customer interaction data; however, a key part of data collection and interpretation is making sure information from all channels (web chat, email, phone, website, social media, etc.) is captured and utilized. If any channel is ignored, the enterprise misses major pieces of the puzzle determining customer experience and customer service benchmarks.
One channel too often disregarded is phone self-service – or more specifically – Interactive Voice Response (IVR). IVR remains a high-use service channel for consumers wanting their financial information quickly and as an important first touch on the way to an agent. But, many financial institutions overlook the improvement potential of their IVR programs. IVR is crucial to great customer service; plus, it can save banks a considerable amount of money when it is engaged instead of live agents. In fact, a side-by-side cost comparison shows that calls engaging live agents cost 10 times as much as similar, automated interactions.
Customers hate bad IVR, but contrary to popular belief, increased automation does not always lead to lower customer satisfaction. Actually, research demonstrates that consumers prefer the IVR if it gets them what they need more quickly and easily. This topic of improving automation is particularly relevant to banks, which are known for having outdated technology, including their IVR systems.
So if you know IVR saves money and your system is outdated, you are probably thinking, "How can I improve?" Following are simple steps that can get financial institutions on the right track for improving automation rates while saving money and increasing customer experience:
1. Research: Before you can begin improving automation, you must have a plan in place to mine data from your IVR and identify where customers are spending the most time. Once you have this information, you can take the action needed to make interactions quicker and easier for the consumer. For example, if 85 percent of your customers are calling in to check balances, you need to make that primary call to action easily handled via IVR.
2. Personalize: Another important use of customer data is tied to personalization. If you are properly tracking each customer interaction, you can blend that with what you know about each customer to personalize future communications with customers in the IVR. This leads to an increase in the customer's preference for automation, which in turn leads to higher automation rates, increased customer satisfaction, and an overall better experience.
3. Ensure channel consistency: Linking the IVR to other service channels can make the service experience more cohesive. For example, if a customer is using web chat to resolve a problem, and then calls customer service, the IVR should recognize that at the beginning of the call. Immediately, that customer should hear a message acknowledging the issue and the stage of resolution, as well as any next steps that the customer can take. It is also imperative that all channels remain consistent. If a customer checks a balance online and then via the phone, ensure those numbers are the same; consumer information must be updated across organizational systems simultaneously. If not, the customer will likely call to speak with an agent, generating a high inquiry cost to your enterprise.
4. Anticipate needs: To enhance the likelihood that a customer is going to self-serve, you must anticipate caller needs. For example, if a customer frequently calls to transfer money, you should prioritize that option to streamline their interaction, allowing them to get in and get out quickly and painlessly.
5. Remove the fluff: It is important to have a clutter-free IVR system in place. It is crucial that the caller is able to quickly hear and consider resolution options. If an option in your IVR system is never used, confusing, or time consuming, remove it. If the IVR is too cluttered, uses jargon that's not understood, or wastes a customer's time, they will seek an agent.
6. Don't make the "0" so obvious: Give consumers some credit – they aren't naive. They know they are talking to a machine, and by now, most of them know that they can press '0' at any time to reach a live agent. Don't remind them too many times of that fact, or they might decide not to try to self-serve. Callers pressing zero don't help themselves as much as they think. By making a selection, they greatly improve the enterprise's chances of getting to an agent that can resolve their issue first.
7. Treat your IVR like an automated agent: Do not hold your IVR to a higher standard than your agents. For example, if customers have to authenticate with at least three pieces of information in the IVR, but only one piece of information with the agent, you are training them to opt-out for a live agent. Decide on standards and make them consistent across all channels.
8. Make authentication simple: Fear has made many enterprises over-authenticate callers. Without sacrificing security, make authentication as simple and as quick as possible. One way to do this is to use intrinsic information wherever possible.
9. Set an automation target: The best approach is to set a realistic improvement goal. The last thing you want to do is force too much automation too fast and have your customer experience suffer as a result. This continuous improvement approach is important so that you don't dissuade your customers from increasing their self-service usage, frustrate them, and send them to higher costs channels. Slow and steady wins this race.
10. Don't automate everything: A successful contact center is comprised of a number of channels, none of which would survive on its own. Neither your IVR, nor your agents can handle everything, so it's important to understand the strengths of each channel. If a process is too complicated, automation may not be the best channel to give the customers a positive experience.
Once you've decided to follow these steps to improve automation, you should put in place a system to continuously monitor and analyze the success of this channel. Too many banks set their customer contact strategy and then forget it, but the constant changes in consumer technologies and expectations, as well as the banking industry itself, make it imperative to have a sound customer service strategy that continuously improves. An effective, fully optimized IVR balances your costs via self-service with your customer experience goals and increases customer retention, loyalty, and brand value.
Paul Logan is CEO of Contact Solutions, a customer service solutions provider.


text:
Kevin Sheppard was an outstanding point guard at Jacksonville University and he hoped to play professional basketball - maybe in places like Miami, Boston or Los Angeles. Instead, he wound up playing in places like Brazil, China and Israel. Then, came an offer from the heart of the Axis of Evil.
SIMON: Kevin Sheppard's 2008-2009 season playing for the A.S. Shiraz team in Iran's Super League is the subject of a new film by Till Schauder. It's called "The Iran Job." Kevin Sheppard and Till Schauder join us now from our studios of NPR West. Thanks very much for being with us.
TILL SCHAUDER: Thanks for having us.
: Thank you.
SIMON: Mr. Sheppard, did you have any concerns for your safety?
: Well, definitely. I had a lot of concern. All I knew was everything I heard on the news. So, I basically had one plan, really - to go over there, see what it's like. If it's everything like they say on the news, then I would just jump on the plane and come back home or go somewhere else to play. But if it's not, then I will find out something else and see something else that a lot of people on this side of the world have never seen.
SIMON: What did you discover? How was it different from the Iran you'd seen on the news?
: You know, one of the most important things that really humbles me was the fact that I got an opportunity to meet with the people and live with the people and saw the lifestyle of the people. And in fact, it was just such a big huge separation between the people and the government that it was really sad that the people of this side of the world didn't get an opportunity to see it. But in reality, the people of Iran really want to change themselves, as a lot of us got to witness with the Green Movement on TV.
SIMON: Mr. Schauder, you originally wanted to make this film by entering Iran as a journalist but that, I guess, became a problem.
SCHAUDER: Yeah, that's right. And at first, they seemed supportive of the project. It looked like we were going to get all the paperwork that we needed. But then out of the blue one day they called us and basically told us your project is probably garbage and we're not going to let you do it. And it forced me to really take the smallest, lightest equipment possible and enter Iran with my German passport. I have dual citizenship - U.S. and German.
SIMON: Mr. Sheppard, let me ask you some basketball questions. In the film, when you get to your team, S.A. Shiraz, you were not - if I might put it this way - bulled over by the caliber of Iranian basketball. Let's listen to a clip.
: This is the worst basketball I've ever seen in my life. Very bad basketball. Not a good day.
That was absolutely true. I mean, I was on a young team - it was an expansion team, their first time in the top level. It's a challenge.
SIMON: At the heart of this film is the utter friendliness with which you are received by Iranians. There's a wonderful moment in the scene when you, Mr. Sheppard, you're conversing with a shopkeeper who had lived in Tennessee and - well, I'll let him speak for himself. But let's say that he loved Bob Marley.
: (Singing) Don't worry, be happy, everything will be all right. Yeah, I smoked marijuana in America.
SIMON: I'm sure the statute of limitations has expired. The most touching part of the film in many ways is your relationship, friendship you develop with three young Iranian women. And this is a friendship in which they share with you, but the difficulties they have as women living in Iran, and we see it in the film, but it has to be kind of a concealed relationship.
: Shhh. Let me go upstairs and get the key.
UNIDENTIFIED WOMAN: (unintelligible) too.
: Whenever the girls leave our apartments, we have to sneak them out the back gate. They don't want Abdullah or anyone else to see them.
SIMON: What do you think they got out of their friendship with you?
: You know, basically what I think they got out of our relationship was the fact that they was able to communicate with a guy from the United States who was open, who was able to listen to their problems and see them for their inner struggles and what they're going through. Whereas, when I spoke to a lot of my teammates, a lot of the women over there were seeing more, like, sex symbols. So, it was a little bit different for them to see a man like myself being able to be as open as I was. And, you know, they gravitated to me.
SIMON: Till Schauder, I gather, based on your experience, that making a film in Iran is kind of not like making one in Kansas, is it?
SCHAUDER: The most difficult part of it was actually to get the footage out of the country. Because normally when you go anywhere in the world, you make a backup of your tape and you send it home or you send it home right away so there's no risk in losing anything. In Iran, I couldn't do that because you're not allowed to send media from Iran to the States. This is not an Iranian restriction. It's actually an American restriction. But I couldn't risk taking it out myself because had they caught me at the airport with, you know, a hundred of tape, they wouldn't have believed my I'm just a tourist line. So, I had to send it to my mother in Germany, 'cause Germany has much better relations with Iran, and she would then send it on to New York.
SIMON: We don't want to spoil the storyline, Mr. Sheppard, but you have this momentous intersection, in a sense, between playoff hopes of the Shiraz team and the hopes of the Iranian people in a presidential campaign.
: I mean, the timing of how all of this thing happened, I mean, you just can't write this thing, where I just went to a country and all of a sudden this election came about that I knew nothing about. And then you see what's going on with my team in comparison with the people of Iran trying to basically stand up for their rights. Because all this was happening before even the revolution in Egypt and Syria and all those places. And I was in the center of all this. I mean, it's, you know, I'm still at a loss of words. I can't even explain it. I think maybe spiritually God put me in that situation so I can be there to understand that, hey, even though you're a basketball player, this, what you're going through right now is bigger than basketball. And it was just a humbling experience for me.
SIMON: Would you ever go back to coach the Iranian national team?
: No, sir. I think I'll try to coach my own national team first in the...
SIMON: In the Virgin Islands. OK. Kevin Sheppard, now retired from basketball, and filmmaker Till Schauder. Their film is called "The Iran Job." Thanks very much, gentlemen.
: Thank you.
SCHAUDER: Thanks for having us on the show. Transcript provided by NPR, Copyright NPR.


text:
Founder Bjørn Nicolaisen is introduced to a miraculous cloth that could effectively clean a very dirty windshield using microfiber and water.
As a result, the Norwegian operation opens as Eidsvoll Miljøprodukter and the revolutionary "Cleaning without Chemicals" approach—which focuses on reducing the use of chemicals to clean homes—is born.
The Norwegian business grows quickly throughout the country. To support the growth, the company maintains its modest building and invests the profits into creating support systems for Consultants. From the beginning our Consultants, Customers and employees are our most valuable assets.
Eidsvoll Miljøprodukter opens Norwex Enviro Products, its first daughter company, after the "little red cloth" makes its way to Canada. This marks the first company to bear the Norwex name in North America.
Norwex Baltic is established in Riga, Latvia, and now services Latvia, Lithuania and Estonia.
Norwex introduces a new microfiber with microsilver, now known as BacLock® technology. Success with this new product pushes us to the forefront of the industry.
Norwex Australia officially opens. The Norwex Mission and focus on the environment and improving quality of life resonate with this market, making Australia the third-largest market in the global family.
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Ten of Wands Tarot Card Meanings
Rediscover the idealism and optimism of your youth to reinvigorate your vision.
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What does the Ten of Wands Tarot card mean?
Learn the meaning of the Ten of Wands Tarot card in under a minute!
Ten of Wands Upright Meaning
This suit, most often called "Wands" and sometimes called "Rods" or "Staves," represents initiative, ambition, drive and desire. This is the suit of enterprise and risk-taking.
The Ten of this suit represents an all-out effort, an obsessive commitment to a task which demands everything you've got. The person shown in decks with pictures is in no position to rest until he makes it inside the stout walls of the well-defended castle in the distance. If he fails, he will become prey for the highway robbers after dark.
It doesn't matter that he's overloaded and underfed. With this card, you have to do whatever it takes to get to completion -- nothing can be allowed to interfere.
Ten of Wands Reversed Meaning
Lack of perspective on your life may impair your progress. The Ten of Wands reversed suggests that you are struggling to get a sense of perspective on the situation. A lack of objectivity may impair your ability to follow through and bring things to closure.
Try to rest yourself. Then step back to take another look at the big picture. If you feel too exhausted to work toward long-term goals, rest until your vision clears and you remember why it's worth the effort. Clear perspective leads to stronger motivation.
Ten of Wands Advice Position
The Ten of Wands in this position advises you to remember the true, simple heart of your youth and all the idealism it held. Now may be the time to reach deep into yourself and identify your purest, most wholesome impulses. As you do this, allow your optimistic and honorable side to see what's good about the world.
Look beyond the challenges, setbacks, disappointments and frustrations you tend to see so easily. As you reawaken your high minded inner child, you will refresh your daily life with a joyful purpose.


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No human being controls the will, heart, nor affections of any other human being. Only God has that kind of sovereignty (Proverbs 21:1). I thought this, surely, was one truth that all Calvinists accepted.
Boy howdy, turns out I'm wrong. Unless I'm not. It's confusing. Follow this out:
When it first was reported that Governor Sarah Palin's daughter had become pregnant, I saw various blogs instantly blaming — her father! No specific evidence whatever was cited. None. It was simply laid down as a "Duh!" dictum. You know: immoral girl = distant, unengaged, failed father. QED. Duh!
If that surprised me, I was astonished to see the frequently-brilliant though often-opaque Douglas Wilson making this argument. Wilson delivered himself of this stunning chain of indicative-moods:
The basic responsibility for this, however, lies with her father. Clearly [!] in some way she was not getting the love, protection, and accountability that she and her boyfriend needed.I know nothing about the private life of the Palin family. And clearly neither did Wilson. But it didn't matter, to Wilson. The girl sinned, so clearly the father failed her.
In that meta, I commented
Huh? A daughter sins, and it's her father's fault? Which one are you channeling: Eliphaz, Bildad, or Zophar? Was Adam's sin his father's fault, too?Wilson was kind enough to respond:
I don't believe fault and responsibility are the same thing. Responsibility is a function of covenant headship. It doesn't mean that the head is guilty.But is that a distinction with a difference? Pastor Wilson said that clearly Todd Palin had not given "the love, protection, and accountability that she and her boyfriend needed." Were he Palin's pastor, I take it his word to his parishioner would be, "Todd, you are responsible for Bristol's sin. You clearly did not love Bristol as she needed, you did not protect your daughter as she needed, and you did not hold your daughter accountable as she needed."
Pause, just a moment. You're (I assume) heartbroken over your child's sin. You're already doing a Mike Tyson on yourself, and can barely look other people in the eye as it is.
Then your pastor tells you that.
I don't know how you can avoid the conclusion that Wilson is saying this: had Todd not failed to give these things, the girl would not have sinned. "Clearly."
In overall response in that meta, I was referred more than once — not primarily to the Bible, but — to two books by Wilson, and an over seventeen thousand, three hundred and thirty-seven (17,337+)-word article by one Robert Rayburn. (I've often noticed: it takes a lot of words to prove that the Bible teaches something it doesn't, or doesn't teach something it does.)
Well, if arguments are weighed by words, Rayburn certainly wins. One paragraph alone ran 974 words. I don't measure up so well, in my writing. A recent post at Pyromaniacs was only 915 words. This one isn't even 2500 words.
Indeed, one must work his way through over 1300 words before he runs into the first Scriptural citation. In all, it's over 8400 words before we reach a section whose title promises to show the doctrine from Scripture. But to be fair, the title of the whole is, "THE PRESBYTERIAN DOCTRINES OF COVENANT CHILDREN, COVENANT NURTURE AND COVENANT SUCCESSION." Not "the Biblical doctrine" (though the author does emphatically state that Scripture matters more than anything else).
Well, I labored through the article. I had to. After all, the Bible had never taught me that I, a father, could stop my children from sinning, and make them growing Christians. If that was doable, I wanted in on it.
So far from convincing me, I found it to be depressing and appalling, potentially very destructive, and a hopeless jumble of doubletalk. It depresses me to think that Christians believe along these lines.
Many Scriptures are cited, very few are dealt with at any length. Clearly, Rayburn's chief love is the citation of previous writers.
Frankly, the closest analogy that sprang to my mind as I read was Roman Catholicism, and its never-ending game of "Telephone." You know: "The Bible said 123, then A said this about the 123, and B said this about A, and C said this about B, and D said this about C, E said this about D...." Before long, you've built theory on theory on theory, you're far from the pristine revelation itself — and you're saying things like "the Bible teaches ZZ." But no, it really doesn't; the Bible teaches 123, maybe with valid inference A — but that's it.
I'd summarize Rayburn as saying that salvation is inherited by blood. It's absolutely guaranteed by God that all children of believers will themselves be believers — unless they aren't! And if they aren't, it's the parents' fault. "Faithful parenting will result, by covenanted grace, in believing children." There you go. Follow the directions, and this will be the result.
Unless it isn't.
Many readers will wonder whether Rayburn goes in the other direction. If children fall away, is it the parents' fault? Yep. Has to be. "It is no slander to acknowledge that [David] was an inattentive and ineffective father who by his instruction, to the extent he gave it, showed his children the way to heaven, but by his example too often led them by the hand to hell." Indeed, Rayburn speaks of "the accountability of parents for [not just the faithful teaching, but] the salvation of their offspring."
So see, God's grandchildren will be His children for sure... unless they aren't!
I guess he pretty much has to have some kind of escape-clause to cancel out his extended arguments that grace is generational, and children of believers are guaranteed actual salvation. Otherwise, we'd all be saved! Wouldn't we? Wasn't Adam a believer? Then all his children are guaranteed eternal life. Hey presto, universalism.
Or if you're unsure about Adam, then Abraham was surely a believer. Hey presto! all Israelites are saved! And Arabs, too! And Esau! Though God "hated" him!
So this is why so many people instantly blamed Todd Palin for his daughter's sin. She did something wrong, so he must have. If he'd done his job, she'd never have sinned. Again, QED, dust off hands, next conundrum, please?
In all this, I don't see any mention (let alone treatment) of Jeremiah 31:29-30 —
In those days they shall no longer say:Later, Ezekiel targeted this very same notion:
"'The fathers have eaten sour grapes,
and the children's teeth are set on edge.'30 But everyone shall die for his own sin. Each man who eats sour grapes, his teeth shall be set on edge.
The word of the LORD came to me: 2 "What do you mean by repeating this proverb concerning the land of Israel, 'The fathers have eaten sour grapes, and the children's teeth are set on edge'? 3 As I live, declares the Lord GOD, this proverb shall no more be used by you in Israel. 4 Behold, all souls are mine; the soul of the father as well as the soul of the son is mine: the soul who sins shall die" (Ezekiel 18:1-4)Interestingly, Rayburn does mention this passage — but then he says the parents get the rest of "that accountability." I don't think it's that easy. Read on. In verses 5-15, Ezekiel specifically follows with for-instance of a man who does everything Yahweh wants him to do, then has a worthless, reprobate, unbelieving son. Don't rush past this. According to Rayburn and his ilk, a sinning child necessarily means the parents did something wrong. Ezekiel, by contrast, specifically depicts a man who did nothing wrong, who nonetheless clearly has a child not in the family of God.
But Ezekiel isn't done. He then portrays the worthless son doing everything wrong, but having a son who sees his father's sins, and himself repents and lives (vv. 14-18). The first father did nothing wrong, yet had a reprobate son; the second father did nothing right, yet had a saved son.
Now, as a believer in God's sovereignty, I have no conceptual problem with this. I don't raise my children according to God's word because results are guaranteed. And I certainly don't hold to any fantasy that godliness is genetically transmitted, nor membership in God's family inherited.
No, I do my flawed best out of love for God, and love for my children. Then I pray that God will plow the soil and grant root and life to the seed (cf. 1 Corinthians 3:4-9).
But even more significantly, I see no allusion in Rayburn to John 1:12-13 —
But to all who did receive him, who believed in his name, he gave the right to become children of God, 13 who were born, not of blood nor of the will of the flesh nor of the will of man, but of God."Not of blood," John says. "Of blood," Rayburn says — or so says his argument.
Then (stay with me, here) I see Michael Hyatt's article, "Whatever Happened to Modesty?" It's a good rant. I agree with virtually everything in the article, and it's very well-said. I only had one problem with it.
Hyatt sees seductively-clad, immodest young women on an MTV awards show (imagine that! who knew?), and instantly wonders, "Where are these girls [sic] fathers?"
Now, look. Maybe it's true. Maybe every last one of them had neglectful, absent, passive fathers. Or unsaved fathers. Or idiot fathers. God knows, there's enough of each of these to go around.
But why is it assumed that there's a necessary and direct connection to their fathers? Because we all know that daughters (or sons) always respond perfectly and predictably to paternal guidance and love? And we know that on what authority? Where was I when we had that church council meeting?
"Where are the fathers?" he asks. Well, I don't know, Michael. Maybe they're home, grieved and praying with their wives for their straying daughters. Maybe they've loved, reached out, prayed, modeled, counseled — imperfectly, but to the best of their ability. Maybe the girl just didn't listen. Maybe she thought she was too smart to have to listen to old dad. Maybe she never really swallowed the Fifth Commandment all the way, whole. Maybe she rebelled. Maybe she fell in love with the wrong guy, or with the spotlights, or with the cameras. After all, these girls on MTV aren't 10 years old, they aren't 13 years old.
Look, I'm not trying to run in the other direction and absolve all fathers of all responsibility. Ask anyone who's ever heard me teach or preach on the subject.
But my hackles go up every time I see any facile blame assumed onto any person for another's sin.
Think. We don't blame children for getting molested. We don't blame rape victims for being raped. Do we? No.
We do suspect that all divorced people caused their marital problems. And we do suspect that all parents with straying children must have failed their children.
From a Biblical (to say nothing of Calvinist) perspective, I don't get any of that.
I read that you can be right in line with God's will, dead-center — and still be sinned against (Matthew 5:10-12; 1 Peter 2:20b). I read that you can tell someone (anyone) the Gospel, perfectly straight-up and dead-on — and he can still reject it, flatly and finally (Matthew 10:13-15; John 17:12).
Might Todd Palin be a defective father? Sure. Might the MTV nymphets have absent or neglectful fathers? Sure.
In fact, all children have defective fathers. (You mean yours don't? Oh, dude....) We strive, we try, we knock ourselves out. We mess up. We're heroes now, we're zeroes fifteen minutes later. Either way and any way, when our kids do hear and heed, we know it's by God's grace. Same as it was with us.
But if they don't hear... well look, if you need 17,000 words quoting past writers to be convinced, you've got the wrong guy. But this does come to mind:
"Son of man, I have made you a watchman for the house of Israel. Whenever you hear a word from my mouth, you shall give them warning from me. 18 If I say to the wicked, 'You shall surely die,' and you give him no warning, nor speak to warn the wicked from his wicked way, in order to save his life, that wicked person shall die for his iniquity, but his blood I will require at your hand. 19 But if you warn the wicked, and he does not turn from his wickedness, or from his wicked way, he shall die for his iniquity, but you will have delivered your soul. 20 Again, if a righteous person turns from his righteousness and commits injustice, and I lay a stumbling block before him, he shall die. Because you have not warned him, he shall die for his sin, and his righteous deeds that he has done shall not be remembered, but his blood I will require at your hand. 21 But if you warn the righteous person not to sin, and he does not sin, he shall surely live, because he took warning, and you will have delivered your soul." (Ezekiel 3:17-21, emphases added — which, ironically, is partly cited by Rayburn)And that really works for me.
Biblely speaking, that is.


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Monday, November 14, 2011
Power of Clothing
What's most impressive is how the clothing tells a story in such an authentic way. It's first a product of good writing, I suppose, that Elphaba's iconic witch costume comes off as real, rather than kitschy. There's a story behind each piece: the hat was given to her as a cruel joke by classmate Glinda, for example.
But the costume designer (Susan Hilferty, who won a Tony for Wicked and also designed the brilliant Spring Awakening) made sure that the costumes told an unwritten story. In fact, the coming of age theme comes across stronger in the clothing than anywhere else. In the beginning, Elphaba wears navy and black shift dresses that play up her dowdiness, but also exude youth. I remember thinking how young the actress looked, and I (needlessly) worried that she didn't have the maturity to pull off such a powerful role.
Fast forward to Act II. Elphaba spends the latter half of the act in a magnificent gown. (See this fabulous blog for many detailed photos of the dress.) It has a distinct Victorian silhouette to it, but the arrangement of the rows of trim play up the body's curves. The actress was truly transformed: sexy, confident, wounded, angry.
Elphaba is an incredible character on her own: a radical who is ostracized and misunderstood because of her ideals. But the costumes took her journey to another level altogether, telling of her sexual awakening and the incredible glamor of being an outlaw.
I don't spend much time with people who think fashion is inherently frivolous or shallow, so I never really have to defend my interest in the subject. But if I did, I would use Wicked as an example of how clothing can carry as much symbolic and emotional weight as any other visual representation.
Which brings me to the question of the day: are you ever made to feel shallow for being interested in fashion and garment construction? Do you think that fashion is a powerful art form, or is that overstating it? Do share!
55 comments:
I'm like you - I don't hang with people who would belittle my love of fashion. It is, after all, one of the largest industries in the world. And whether or not one is a fashionista, clothing and fashion affects everyone in some way or another.
I haven't seen Wicked either, but I have seen some of the costumes, including the 2nd act gown. Gorgeous! If the Harry Potter exhibit ever comes around again, that's another one to check out the costumes. They were amazingly detailed. You couldn't see much of it in the movies, but the amount of work that went into them was stunning.Have you read Tom&Lorenzo's commentary on the fashion in Mad Men? They're listed under "Mad Style" on the blog: http://www.tomandlorenzo.com/page/5?s=%22mad+style%22&x=0&y=0
We make plenty of assumptions about people based on how they're dressed so talking about fashion is kind of an interesting way to discuss stereotypes. Clothing makes powerful conscious and subconscious statements about who we are and our persona. It's good stuff to pull apart and examine.
That said, I generally don't think fashion is art. Some fashion, like McQueen, could be seen as art, but clothing to me is too utilitarian to be art. Same with furniture and cars and the like. It can be beautiful and have artistic qualities, but its purpose is its function, not its beauty.Uh, it's more like when *haven't* I been made to feel shallow about it? When I was 13 or 14 years old, I told my grandparents that I wanted to be either a hairstylist or a seamstress when I grew up. That precipitated a family-wide meltdown - panicky long-distance phone conversations, removal of all books and magazines with suggestive content (e.g. pretty dresses and hair), and finally an intervention of epic proportions with my parents sitting me down and explaining that such interests were beneath our family (of scientists, physicians, lawyers, writers), our ancestors would roll over in their graves if I ever said such a thing again much less actually did it, etc, etc.
Needless to say, that ridiulous episode only made fashion and sewing that much more fascinating to me, so I've maintained a hobby-level interest all my life while pursuing that all-important "professional" career.
From all this I would say that we should encourage our daughters to be finance moguls, rocket scientists, and international humanitarians, but we can do it without discouraging their "girlish" interests. Sheesh!- bittersweetNovember 14, 2011 at 11:38 AM
I am more like Katrina. When haven't I been made to feel shallow for it? I grew up in a very small farming town where my mom and I both struggled with this. Now I really only have a couple of close friends who share my interest in style/fashion/etc. Generally where I live people dress as casually as they can get away with. Jeans days at work are definitely the highlight of the work week. I really enjoy wearing dresses, so I do. My co-workers don't get this at all. If you dress up at all the perception is that you are really trying to stand out/show off. They think they only reason to dress is to impress other people. They don't understand dressing just for one's own pleasure. They also equate style with whatever the current trends are, so I sort of get based on this why they would see it as a shallow.
ReplyDelete Maybe it's living in LA, but I've never been made to feel shallow about my interest in fashion and making my own clothing. But for me, my sewing has always come from a place of need, not a place of artistic expression. As I'm entering my 30s, the sewing I'm doing for myself is finally starting to have a cohesive, identifiable style -- which I love -- but sewing has always been about first filling a need that ready-to-wear clothes cannot fill, and only secondarily about an artistic statement.
My mom taught me to sew when I was 7 or 8 years old, but my interest in it didn't really take off until high school. Post-puberty, my body was incredibly difficult to fit: 5'1", short-waisted, and what I would later learn is a bust best fit by a 28J bra size. So no prom dress off the rack was ever, ever going to fit me, and I was suddenly stuck making my own, or attending in the sportsbra and baggy tshirt that was my every day "style" back then. I quickly realized that I could make things that made my body look much better than any ready-to-wear ever could, and started sewing more and more.
Fastforward 15 years, and I still have the short waist and large bust issue, but now I'm also dealing with a chronic illness that leaves me with constant joint pain, especially in my hips and knees. I'm saying my farewells to jeans this month, as I simply can't wear them without huge amounts of pain. Imagine removing all denim from your wardrobe. What are you left with? What do you throw on to run to the store to buy milk?
I was drawn to retro style initially because I like the way it looks, and because 50s and early 60s styles tend to compliment my figure better than modern styles do. But as my disease gets worse, I'm also finding retro styles to be a huge mobility aid, literally increasing the number of hours a day I can live relatively pain-free. Who needs modern jeans, when you can wear cute circle skirts?
I went to Disneyland wearing a crinoline for the first time yesterday, and it made all the difference in the world. I can tuck all that poofy padding under my sensitive hips when I sit on the hard ride seats or park benches. I can walk around without any fabric pulling my knees out of joint, or weighing on my hip joints. And I can look damn cute while doing it. (And apparently yesterday was Rockabilly Day at Disneyland, which I didn't know about in advance, but I certainly wasn't the only one rocking the retro look!)
So as I've gotten more ill, my fashion sewing has become more and more a statement about who I am. I am a woman first, and my disease second. I can be pretty even when I feel like death warmed over. I don't have to change my body to love the way I look. I haven't given up on life, even though I'd like a refund for this dysfunctional body. And no matter what curveballs my body, my health, life, the universe, and everything throw at me, with a sewing machine and the right fabric, I can conquer anything.I LOVE WICKED. Saw it London, it was excellent.
As for your discussion - there are certain aspects of fashion I do personally find to be frivolous, namely this whole "wear it once, chuck it away/hide in back of closet" attitude many people seem to pick up. This isn't something which necessarily applies to sewing - after all, I can't say there'd be many people here who would throw away a dress they'd slaved over for hours on end! Not to mention the quality of a self sewn garment is likely to be far higher than something you'll buy on the high street.
When fashion is an art form or telling a story like you explain here, it's a whole different ball game. Clothes are another way to tell a story, as you point out, and I always feel like the items I have in my wardrobe which are handmade say more about me than something I bought for a pound in a cheap fashion shop.
I'm pretty much in agreement with you anyway, clearly just used a comment to have a cheeky rant ;)
Oh my, I think I feel my own blogpost coming on!I totally agree from a fashion historian point of view and as a Wicked lover (I tattooed Defying Gravity onto my wrist) http://beebeesvintagedress.blogspot.com/2011/10/my-elphaba-blouse.html
Fashion is now finally being studied as a legitimate source to research how we have perceived ourselves and been perceived throughout history. I read in one of my study books a fab quote which sums up Elpheba perfectly
"Clothes, like the skins of animals, serve a double and somewhat inconsistent purpose. They are both self-protective and self-assertive"I can actually pinpoint the exact moment I fell in love with fashion -- when I saw the cast of Wicked come out for the opening number. I turned to my friend and said "That's what I want to do for a living." I'm nowhere near that point, but suddenly I saw how clothing could totally set the mood, make statements, etc. Thanks for posting this!
ReplyDeleteI'm definitely used to the "What are you so dressed up for?" interrogation every time I wear a dress or do my hair in a more intricate style (which is pretty frequently). My love of fashion isn't made to seem shallow, exactly- it just seems inexplicable to some people. Or they act as if it's just for people with extra time and money on their hands (funny, because I don't have much of either!) My close friends understand, though (probably one of the reasons why they're my close friends!)
ReplyDelete- AnonymousNovember 14, 2011 at 1:38 PM
As a costumer for the theatre, most of the people I know and work with understand the importance fashion holds in telling a story. I have a few non-theatre friends who I implore to take me at my word when they have questions about clothing and appropriate fashion for certain outings.
Wicked is such an incredible spectacle--just Glinda's wand alone cost thousands of dollars. If I could have a budget like that, I'd make every look like a glittering Elton John, too! :-) I don't think fashion is either art or craft, it's somewhere in between. It's everywhere, and, like the work of people who design textiles and reformulate colours, is taken for granted.
And, yes, I've had my share of "don't let her read that, it will only encourage her" when I was young and always had my nose buried in a fashion/sewing magazine, and the inevitable stares and comments you get when you tall, skinny and wearing something you made that no one else can have.
Now I'm old, chronically ill and fat thanks to steroids and inactivity and haven't sewn much for me the past few years. I'm finally back, and am going to turn out some very not old lady loungewear for swishing around the house and keeping my spirits up.
I'd love to see an exhibition of stage costumes where you can get up close enough to see the techniques used to create the stage illusion. That's what I wanted to do, work in the theatre and make costumes, before my family threw a collective fit. Same when I decided millinery was for me. I wish I'd had the courage to just go for it instead of listening to my family. It's great to see (mostly) female persuits finally getting the respect they deserve.I can't remember a time when I was not interested in historical or vintage fashion, although I have to admit, I have little knowledge or interest in current fashion ;). I grew up watching Little House on the Prairie and my fondest dream as a little girl was to wear a prairie dress and sunbonnet like Melissa Gilbert. My dad worked at a textile factory, so even though I had no clue how to sew, he'd bring home scraps of fabric for me and I'd try to stitch, glue, staple, etc. little garments together for my dolls.
I had sewing lessons at age 11, so finally knew the basics. I got serious about historic/vintage fashion when I was in my mid teens and that has been a huge part of my life since then; I'm now in my mid-20's.
I was lucky to have a mom who, although she did not understand my huge interest, gave me the freedom and resources to pursue researching and recreating garments for myself.
I have long had a struggle with people who just don't get why I am interested in this. I get comments from people that range from somewhat snide to downright rude about how I can spend so much time researching and sewing when I have three preschool boys. It doesn't seem important to so many people, or even a rational hobby. It has been hard.
But the obsession is strong. I find foundation garments absolutely fascinating. The past few years I have loved getting into the history of the different eras I do, and finding relations between the social history of the time and how that affected fashion and womans body image, and vice versa. It is really amazingly eye opening.I think that people assume sewing means saving money (ha!) so they don't even consider it frivolous. For me, how I dress helps in how I feel. Similar to make up being called war paint, it really does help me during a hard day at work. If I look good, I will in deed feel good (or at least better). Sewing is an art form for sure. If a painter to uses the canvas to paint, our body is the canvas and the fabric the paint.
ReplyDelete- AnonymousNovember 14, 2011 at 5:00 PM
This is such an interesting topic and it has sparked such wonderful conversation on the subject. I just saw Wicked in NY in October, and I was absolutely blown away. We snagged some cheap partial view seats in the side section, but second row! So I had to tilt my neck a bit, but it was SO WORTH it to be feet away from all the costumes. (If anyone's planning on going, I can attest that at the Gershwin CC3-7 are fab seats for great price). The amount of thought and effort that went into every unique and elaborate piece of clothing is unfathomable! I'd go see it again ten more times just to look at the clothes.
As far as fashion being seen as frivolous, my friends and family have varying views. Some, like my boyfriend and mom, take my interest in clothing and sewing very seriously and understand completely when I explain how a design or collection is inspired by a certain, event, era, or piece of art.
With others, like my dad or brother, I find myself getting embarrassed or flustered, like it's silly to be comparing my "fashion stuff" to great pieces of art or important events in history. It's like I'm imposing the "frivolous" view on myself before I've even gotten my explanation out, and then it becomes harder for them to take it seriously.
I am constantly telling others that clothing is an art form and it can hold as much meaning as literature or music, but it's hard sometimes when I feel myself doubting it's validity. This post articulates wonderfully how clothing can be a very real, very significant part of someones individuality, creativity, and expression. Thank you for sharing and reassuring my own confidence in my craft! Hi Gertie!
I was one of the milliners for Wicked's initial run on Broadway. The theatrical hat workshop that I worked for in NYC (Lynne Mackey Studio) took Ms. Hilferty's sketches and created almost all of the (really crazy looking) hats for the chorus as well as some for the main characters. I got to make a few for Kristin Chenoweth. It was one of my crowing achievements! (No pun intended. Well, maybe a little.)
I come from a background of working with super-high-end construction. The problems I run into with other people's thoughts on garment construction is that they've never been exposed to a garment that has been truly gorgeously and thoughtfully made. Minds are blown when I tell them the costs of well-made articles of clothing. They just have no point of reference since the vast majority of our clothes these days are very very cheaply made in a factory overseas.
But I totally understand! I don't have the budget to buy the things I make. I sometimes struggle to justify a living wage for my work. But the people who get it, get it. And hopefully they also have the $$$.I was visiting New York from Australia a couple of weeks ago and we made the time to see Wicked. It was fantastic. Even my musical hating husband ADORED it. He reckons it was the best thing we did in NY. I too loved Elphaba's dress in the second act - really summed up her growth as a woman and a witch.
I've never been ridiculed for liking fashion, but I have for sewing my own clothes. I suspect it was jealousy. Those people are no longer friends.I've also had the same experience as Katrina. I too grew up in a small town that was deeply religious and since most of the community was fairly poor, the idea that fashion was something to worry about was looked upon as "worldly" and as far away from "godliness" as one could get. Needless to say, its not what I chose to get my college degree and honestly, its something I've truly regretted since I don't even use my college degree to make a living. Sewing is my passion first and foremost, but that definitely goes hand in hand with fashion. I do truly wish I had been able to grown up in a community and family where the pursuit of my passion as a career would have been much more accepted. Aw well. Now I know!
Loved the perspective on Wicked! Something I've definitely wanted to see for awhile and just haven't yet.- AnonymousNovember 14, 2011 at 7:30 PM
I've never been made to feel shallow for enjoying fashion, at least never at home. My mom sews, my sister is super fashionable, and my dad was always supportive of all of us girls looking pretty.
The few times where people made comments about me being girly was at work, in particular from a former female boss. My purses were too "girly" if I wore something new (but that met the dress code) I got asked if I was going on a date. Eventually the dress code in the dept was changed, and we all looked like the guys. Polos, jeans, and tennis shoes. I still wore my nail polish and makeup, and got told it wasn't necessary, who was I there to impress?
No one, that was the answer. I simply enjoy being feminine, and the ability to express my femininity through fashion gives me that chance. That's why I find clothes important in that they send a message. About you, as a person. Your clothes can be an outward expression of your inner self.
For those of us that sew, there's basically a carte blanche to express ourselves in any way we want, Isn't that fun?
And anyway, have you seen an authority figure that looked frumpy and was ever taken seriously? Nope, neither have I. The clothes can make a person, and send a powerful message. So we have to think about what it is that we are saying.
P.S. I left that job years ago... - AnonymousNovember 14, 2011 at 7:50 PM
People like what they like. Is fashion any less valid an interest than say, fantasy football? At least what I make is real, unlike a fantasy football team. There's more to most of us than one interest, so we just enjoy the differences and carry on, right?
I spend the entire time at shows and ballet watching the costume details and how the sets move. Fascinating! Wicked is indeed a wonderful show, and theatre has the wonderful ability to provide a venue for people to examine attire and environment like they do music and text--"How does it make me feel?" We do it every day when we look at what others wear, but we don't recognize it as a cognitive process until we get the opportunity to examine it from a distance like we can with costumes. It's the fact that it's a costume that allows so many people to step back and think about what it means, it's story, it's relevance to the character... Perhaps fashion wouldn't have as bad a reputation if it were perceived the same way as a costume...
The nature of fashion manufacturing has colored a lot of our contemporary opinions toward fashion... The industry survives through consumption, so things have to become obsolete quickly to keep selling. It operates on the tendency of people to covet what they don't have. And by extension, the fashion industry must encourage an aura of "have/have not" that most find morally disagreeable. It's very nature tends to encourage judgement of others by what they wear.
There's a growing tendency today to shift away from market-driven clothing obsolescence toward "slow fashion", which costuming can exemplify much better than most other industries. It's an appreciation of attire that comes not from the owning of it, but from the making of it.
I think today we're already seeing fewer assumptions and judgments based on a person's clothing, since there's a stronger appreciation of the skill and craft that goes into making it. Today, I think, manufactured clothing has a "look" to it that is just as recognizable as "homemade" clothing used to be... I think that much like being a "geek" has become more acceptable, DIY clothing is becoming more acceptable, and as a consequence manufactured clothing is less desirable...
I think our criticism of people enamored of fashion is less about them, personally, than it is about everything that has been lumped into the concept, industry, and reputation of fashion. It's hard to draw a distinction. I guess, in the end, it's about how much we as individuals criticize others' lack of fashion and "show-off" our own sensibilities that will make an impression on others and mold their concept of what fashion is. The more we let the industry dictate our needs/wants so they can make money, and revel in the collection of our material possessions instead of appreciating skills and diligence... well, then perhaps we do deserve to get criticized...
Sounds rather like Elphaba and Glinda, doesn't it? :)I'm finding myself confused and needing some clarification about how i feel about fashion. I love garment construction, costumes & vintage clothing and the sociological stories that they tell, but i'm not a lover of contemporary fashion/trends. Perhaps i don't have the correct vocabulary to express myself adequately.
I really dislike fashion magazines and find that contemporary trends just annoy me. Is it because contemporary fashion is so intrinsically intertwined with consumerism & a capitalist economy (with which i have issues)?
Perhaps someone can help me sort my feelings out about fashion? ATM all i can say it it's a love/hate relationship that confounds me a tad :/Gertie you always spark the best discussions!
I have become so totally comfortable with my appreciation of Fashion as both art and design (both a creative visual medium and solving design problems by functional objects), as well as my understanding of clothing as a personal means of creative expression, that I kind of forgot that there are is this huge perception out there of fashion as 'vacuous'. I guess it all comes down to your approach to fashion, and your understanding of it.
I have never been one to follow exactly whats happening on the catwalks and be a slave to trends or anything, but i'm sure that many people understand fashion to be just that, about slavishly following trends and buying the latest thing for the sake of vanity. I've never been questioned by such a person, but I suppose if I were I would just have to re-educate them!
This discussion has definitely reminded me though of being a teenager and never wearing anything other than jeans and a t-shirt out of the house for fear of the 'why are you so dresses up' questions.It's a fact of life, sad or otherwise, that you will be judged by someone somewhere at some time because of what you wear.
My mom always said whatever you wear, it should be clean and well pressed. She encouraged my interest in fashion but also encouraged me to find ways to make what's 'fashionable' work for my life. For instance when miniskirts were de regeur but not allowed in school (back in the dark ages!) she helped me make decisions about what parts of Fashion could be incorporated into my real life.
My coworkers may not understand my interests but they claim they are amazed and impressed by my knowlege and abilities! And I love them for saying so...
I read Wicked but haven't seen the play. I'd love to see the costumes and see if they match what I imagined as I read the book!I've never been made to feel bad about my interest in fashion, but I have found people to be either indifferent or interested in the various regions I've lived in. In Los Angeles people were much more likely to compliment me on my fashion/sewing than anywhere else that I've lived. In most other places I've lived people never looked down on my for a fashion interest, but they certainly didn't encourage it either!
My favorite costume in Wicked was actually Galinda's white school uniform. I loved the perfect crisp jacket and the perfect skirt. I had plans to make something like it, but so far have not gotten around to it!Hello Gertie, this is my first time posting a comment here.
I'm new to the fashion industry and have been a fabric cutter for the last 6 months. My style has been mostly inspired by my need to shop at thrift stores. Creativity is a must to pull off a full thrift store wardrobe and I have garnered a bit of a reputation for it. I'm glad people think I have style rather than being known as the one who can't afford new clothes.
Now that I work in the fashion industry I'm finding no one really knows what I do. They constantly think I work in the shop selling the clothes. It doesn't matter how many times I tell them. I'm very proud of what I do and find it thrilling to have a hand in making many beautiful things every day. I'm quite sure no one has thought of me as shallow for it. It's such a small part of who I am and just compliments my personality rather than being a stand alone thing.
I'm an artist so I'm probably just used to being completely misunderstood anyway. I think I left them all confused at least a decade ago. :)Being part of higher education and teaching in a fashion curriculum can expose oneself to a kind of prejudice only academia can create. The bureaucrats who run our college most definitely feel that fashion is a frivolous subject. We also don't jive with the Art Dept either, who hate our less than fine art bent. It's a daily fight to keep our budget and respect!
ReplyDeleteI do think fashion is a form of art. I have had people telling me that they are just clothes. When I was studying fashion and I told people about it, they automatically think that you are thick and doing a doss course. People think you just get two pieces of material and sew up the sides!! Love the costumes and thanks for showing them to us. XxxX http://thesecondhandrose.blogspot.com/
ReplyDeleteI go back and forth feeling that fashion is shallow, and that fashion is amazing. But since I've started sewing more, it's made me realize how cookie cutter so much clothing in stores is. I also watched "Bill Cunningham New York" this weekend, and I loved one of the things he said about fashion: that fashion is, in some ways, like peoples' armor that they greet the world in. I can definitely identify with that.
ReplyDeleteoh baby, have you hit a mine field! I dress pretty vintage-y most days. red lips, victory rolls, the sha-bang. the only problem is (it's not my problem mind you) is everyone else. i get the weirdest looks and the not compliment of "oh, what an interesting outfit". really!?
have they never dreamed of a life outside sweatshirts and yoga pants.
my husband is an artist and my parents LOVE my style so i never face any objections on my home-front but when i drop and pick up my kids from school its almost like Hester Pryn in heels. man oh man do the other mom stare; and not in a nice way. they think i'm a total wacko and don't get why i identify with and era past. none of my friends are interested in fashion in the slightest. people out here think thrifting clothes is icky.
i'm on a fashion island full of ideological cannibals.- Cheryl LemmonsNovember 15, 2011 at 10:59 AM
Clothing is most definitely a powerful expression of who we are. My mother taught me to clean up, put make-up on and dress well every day. She believed this could make you feel better when things weren't going so well or even feeling ill. She idolized Grace Kelly and Jaqueline Kennedy. She's now 80 and still dresses well every day (she still looks great in jeans).
I am a Christian and our scriptures mention two women connected with clothing . . . Lydia sold purple cloth (a precious commodity in that day) and Dorcas was known for making clothing for the women in her community.
Reading the comments is inspiring me to call our local shelter for battered women (Noah Project) and see what it would take to teach basic sewing skills to those women who have literally been beaten by life. How empowering would it be for them to have the ability to create a small bit of beauty in their otherwise hard lives. As a musician (I'm a professional pianist) I have long believed that the way we thumb our noses at the ugliness in this world is to persist in doing what we can to bring beauty to this world. Teaching someone (male or female) to make something beautiful is a way to empower them. Calling those of us who love beautiful clothes shallow is a bit like calling God shallow for making flowers beautiful.
Keep up the good work, Gertie. And thanks for inspiring me to use my sewing skills to hopefully make someone else's life a little more beautiful. I think that when people talk about fashion being shallow, they really mean those fashionistas who are far more concerned with the designer label inside the garment than the garment itself. They would wear a sack if it had a famous label in it. Clothing has always been about power. If you look at medieval fashion there were rules over who could wear what. Further down the line, women were controlled by their clothes, the too tight whale bone corset and the dresses which weighed far too much. People forget that those big Victorian dresses for example made a hell of a lot of noise when women walked. No sneaking into rooms whilst wearing one of those, you'd be heard a mile off. Women and men had fought back through clothing - the mini skirt made more of a statement than fashion. Nor are such statements reserved for 'fashion' as such. Military uniforms were designed to be intimidating, or to act as camouflage. Every aspect of our clothing has deeper meaning whether we mean it to or not. You may think that wearing jeans and a t shirt is an every day thing but a woman in some parts of Saudi Arabia could be faced with the lash or worse. Women in some parts of Africa may choose not to wear any clothing at all. In the UK you'd be arrested for that, not to mention very cold and wet. Clothing has power whether you mean it to or not. There's nothing shallow about that.
ReplyDelete- AnonymousNovember 15, 2011 at 7:00 PM
I have seen Elphaba's gown up close. If anyone says the designer and seamster of this dress isn't a artist and brilliant, well they're stupid. I love when fashion designers are giving credit in museums for their power to transform. But we also need to give more credit to the seamsters that bring the designer's work to life.
So yes, fashion is a powerful and wonderful art form. And we get to wear it. When was the last time you could wear a statue? Hi Gertie
I am not what you would call a fashionista. I don't necessarily go all out for the latest trends (which are remakes of what I wore in the 70's and 80's here in Ireland at the moment, why didn't I listen to my granny, don't throw anything out, it will come back into fashion, I'd have all vintage) but what I do like is the fact that I can make somehting for myself and make it my own, the equivalent to a designer make but at a fraction of the price. When I was in secondary school, I was the only one who liked sewing as I had been making my own clothes from age 12. Most of the girls in my class looked down on me but to me I had the last laugh as they all had to dress the same (part of their code) . Now, even though I don't get to make as many of my clothes as I would like, I still get that great feeling of fulfillment and accomplishment when I finish a garment.I would love to see wicked, the costumes look amazing!!
I've been made to feel shallow about fashion. people used to ask what I was studying in college and when I'd say fashion&clothing, I'd get commonly get this response 'what are you going to do with that then' whilst giving me the once over and raising eyebrows.
As a fashion department in the art block at college we also suffered. The course was seen as a dumb subject, yet we had the highest number of students going onto university and last year one of the student's got accepted in to central saint martins to study fashion, so much for being a dumb course!!
There's also a particular friend of my boyfriend who happens to be a solicitor, she will go out of her way to not even say hi, and just ask 'have you made your dress then' whilst giving me a snide look. but I guess it part of fashion and being able to making your own clothes, those who don't understand it or have no interest, or are just plain jealous are the ones to make the snide comments.
another one that really really bugs me is if someones know you are interested in fashion or that you study it they expects you to look like you come straight of the catwalk, and if you don't and lets face it in reality who really does, they just assume that you nothing about fashion and smirk!! They obviously haven't heard about style either!!!
as for fashion being art, for me that's a yes especially costume/couture wise, but I definitely think that art is in the eye of the beholder.Oh I would LOVE to see Wicked. My friend got a backstage tour when they were in town, and wow! what awesome pictures she had.
Interesting question. I was raised being taught that Vanity was the mother of all sin and that fancy clothes, jewelry and make-up were all vanity. Learning to sew was about function and about being self-sufficient, making pretty clothes was somehow ok, as long as it was inexpensive, because somehow if it was cheap it was less vain??? Anyway when it came time to choose a career I was highly conflicted that most of the things I loved were "based in vanity" and pursuing them would be a commitment to vanity as a profession. So I did not pick a career at all, I worked but not at anything I loved. Now I am working on building my own business from home and have shed (most) of the baggage I was raised with. I can still see that I'm influenced heavily by the "function as fashion" but turning that around to mean less-waste, more re-use and things made of quality materials so they are lasting. My concience works overtime sort of like Lisa Simpson, but if she were raised by the Flanders family, so it's been a long road of learning to drop what is not important and hold on only to the core of what matters.I definitely believe that fashion is a powerful art form. It has the ability to make you feel confident, beautiful, and people look at well dressed people in a respectful way. You can express so many things through fashion and also inspire others through the way you dress. I always dress up for an occasion rather than play it safe and it almost always works to my benefit. My friends always tell me how they are jealous of my motivation do dress so nicely and that I always look put together.
I am the kind of person who really appreciates a garment with great construction. My friends think I'm picky for not wanting to purchase anything that is a good deal,but poor quality, so I tell them this: in the long run it is better to have spent more for a garment that will last 20 years than a little for something that will wear out in a year.
However, my opinion might be biased because I do want to study fashion and go into fashion industry, so I probably think more highly of fashion than most.I've never been interested in fashion but I love sewing and I love that your focus on things that are made for the female form.
One reason I've never liked fashion is that it's focus is on skinny little models, I have always been curvy and now that I'm older even more so. It's hard to find things to fit unless you make them yourself. What is available in the store makes me look like I have a flour sack on. Nothing form fitting if you're overweight or not 110 lbs.
Anyway enough ranting. I love your blog and creations.- AnonymousNovember 17, 2011 at 4:12 PM
I don't know if I was made to feel shallow, persay, but rather odd for wanting to sew my own clothing. A lot of people have no idea how a garment is constructed, let alone how it is PROPERLY constructed. I also think that a majority of society is focused on things like labels and looking "now" vs. looking good (I give hipster pants as an example. I love these pants... on stick straight people with no hips or calves. On people like me--I have hips, I have a small belly--these pants look ridiculous. However, cigarette pants are another story because of the way they're shaped. Similar style, but different shape). I made a promise to myself at the beginning of 2011 that I wasn't going to buy anything new. Partly because nothing FITS and partly because I dislike the quality of off-the-rack clothing. And I haven't. And some how, that makes me odd. My friends who sew get it though.
ReplyDelete nice post. Now you can use this service providers directory to promote bulk clothes buttons import & export business.
ReplyDeleteI know I'm late to the game on this comment BUT I have the opposite reaction to being interested in fashion and garment construction. I love the creativity and most people find it cool (or odd) that I make things with my hands but it's also driven from an awareness of slave labor in the clothing we buy SO most people either ignore it or think that what I'm doing is cool and relevant.
ReplyDeleteI took Laura to see Wicked on Broadway back when it first opened and it sortof changed my life. It was that moving. I listened to the soundtrack so many times I can sing every song. Then I read all of Gregory Maguire's other books. Everything about it blew me away. Uh oh, her it comes ... oh what a celebration we'll have today! Thank Goodness!
(I like the odd time meter in that one)... I could go on.. and on.... I really need to go and VACUUM.This comment is a little late, but I thought I'd note that I've actually had a very good response to being interested in sewing and garment construction. My friends love it and ask me about what I'm sewing all the time. I'm in my early 20s, and I feel like there's sort of a crafty revival among people my age. It's novel to us because ready to wear is almost all there's ever been in our lifetime. My family loves it too! My mom is a doctor but she does beautifully neat blind hems by hand (on my brother's well-loved clothing!) and whipstitches, mends, and patches while reviewing her medical books. I think it would help if crafty people also didn't so regularly complain about having to do math. People who will do all sorts of adjustments in a minute talk about having to add two measurements like it's rocket science! I'm sure they're better at addition than they think, but it's in *their* minds too that technical mindedness and creativity are mutually exclusive. My two cents!
ReplyDeleteOh YES! I was just having a conversation with my roommate about this the other day. We live in a town that is very popular among rock climbers and people who are generally into the outdoors. We have both felt that we've come under "passive-aggressive" attack for being into fashion. For example, I've had people say to me, "Oh those shoes are fabulous. I bet they were soooo expensive." As if they're trying to make me feel guilty for spending money on something as frivolous as high heeled shoes, but they completely overlook that they are clothed from head to toe in tech-y Patagonia, Mammot, or Arcteryx clothing that is incredibly expensive. I just smile and thank them. No one needs to know how much I spend. Usually, most of my wardrobe is thrifted. LOL.
I have seen Wicked and LOVED it! The costumes were beautiful and the performances were breath taking.After looking at the stills on the linked blog, I am just blown away-- what an incredible work of art! I am with you, fashion is so much more than "just clothes" to me. Much of clothing is just clothing, but fashion can actually take your breath away, and leave one dazed and dazzled. Like Elphaba's gown does. Wowza!
ReplyDeleteYes, people sometimes dismiss me as shallow and frivolous because of my interest in clothes. I am only very moderately interested in fashion; I try to keep up in rather general terms, but mostly because I'm interested in the history of fashion and costume and the psychology behind it, and it seems a little stupid to completely ignore the present and future just because it doesn't appeal to my personal taste much.
However, like Len and probably many others, I find the consumerism at the heart of fashion troubling and, yes, frivolous. I won't say that this is the main reason I was drawn to vintage clothing and learned to make my own, but it has become more and more important to me. It makes me a little sad that parts of the retro and vintage culture feels increasingly consumerist, too; more overpriced off-the-rack repro and retro-inspired, less DIY and thrifting.


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Watch These Amazing Softball Catches — Daily Distraction
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Softball season is now fully under way, so let's take a look at some highlights.
No matter what level you are—high school, coed bar-league teams, even more advanced squads that travel all over the country—when the weather warms up and you can finally put that glove back on and hit the field with your teammates, it's a great feeling. And nothing feels better out on the diamond than making a spectacular catch.
The Daily Distraction is your Internet break from reality. Whether you're eating lunch at your desk or avoiding high school exes on Facebook, you might just laugh, say "aaahhh" or not believe what you just watched.


text: Arrangement of ravishing blooms will beautifully express your feelings. Combining the timeless elegance of classic red roses, carnations and hypericum with the fashion-forward approach of a cube vase arrangement, it arrives all wrapped up with a flashy bow. Perfect for birthdays, anniversaries, or the one who makes you feel red, hot and fabulous.