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A great margarita, anachronistic foam, please-wait-at-the-bar and other post-review musings about Stampede 66
I thought I'd share some random additional thoughts about Stampede 66, the subject of last week's review. Online readers may not be aware (and maybe print readers don't even think about it), but we don't always have the space to include as much as we'd like in any given review. The main review gets two pages in Guide (which is about 1,000 words), and a secondary review gets one page, or about 500 words.
Anyway, I often feel like I have more to say than space will allow about a restaurant, and I definitely felt that way about the Stampede 66 review. Of course not all of it makes good print copy, but that's what blogs are for, right?
Let's start at the door. On my last visit, my guests arrived in advance of me. They gave the phony name the reservation was under, and the hostess told them to wait at the bar until their party was complete. Very useful to me to know that's how most diners are treated there (that's definitely not how a critic who is recognized is treated). The staff's tone changed when my guests were recognized at the bar before I arrived, thanks (I'm guessing) to sharp-eyed general manager Shawn Horne or wine director Don Myers or both.
Is it reasonable not to seat people until their party is complete? I'm of two minds about it. I suppose there is a justification for it from a restaurateur's point of view when it's a very busy restaurant — especially if it is a no-reservations situation. But the higher you go up the ladder of upscale dining, it feels less and less acceptable to me. What's the risk — that the diners will take up the table a few minutes longer than they ought if the rest of their party is late? Or that the others won't show up and the diners who arrived first will wind up with a bigger table than they ought? It seems to me that at a certain price point, you'd want to make diners feel as welcome as possible — not like they're herded toward the bar. Is Stampede 66 at that price point? Hard to say. If you look at the menu, it doesn't seem too expensive — there are plenty of $4 to $8 starters, and main courses are $16 to $19. But if you order as much as the servers tend to encourage, adding things like bread at $6 to $10 per order, or $6 orders of pickles, it definitely adds up. I'd love to hear what you (both diners and restaurateurs) think about the no-seating-till-the-party's-complete convention.
I also didn't get around to discussing the many visual and other references to Star Canyon in the review — not only because of tight space, but also because I discussed it in the Critic's Notebook first look piece I filed shortly after Stampede 66 opened. I didn't want to be repetitive.
The atmosphere at Stampede 66 is absolutely festive, thanks in part to the margarita cart that makes the rounds of the dining room. The only margarita made on the cart is the Star Canyon Modern Margarita: It's quite a show, with all the billows of "smoke" from the liquid nitrogen used to make the drink, lots of fun. But to me, that particular cocktail — a pretty sweet, sherbet-like concoction — would be nicer for dessert. I mentioned in the review that I loved the Passion-Chile Margarita. It's well balanced, with just a tiny kiss of chile heat that works really well with the passion fruit. Hard to drink just one of those babies. In fact, I liked most of the cocktails I tasted more than the signature one on the cart — they tend not to be as sweet as they sound. And, by the way, the regular margarita I ordered one night (on the rocks, with salt) was one of the best I've had anywhere lately, perfectly balanced and bright-tasting, with the good flavor of the tequila coming through. I'm not crazy about tall margaritas with lots of margarita mix (even house-made margarita mix). To me a good margarita is just tequila, lime juice and Cointreau in the right proportions. Some call that a Mexican Martini. I call it a proper margarita. If you're wondering why margaritas have gotten so incredibly caloric to the point where anyone concerned has to order a skinny margarita, I think you can chalk it up to all that margarita mix.
Besides the cocktails and Don Myers' well chosen list of Texas wines, there are also excellent non-alcoholic drinks: horchata, tamarindo and hibiscus aguas frescas.
So, what else? I keep thinking about the foam on several of the dishes. I'm sorry — I'm just a little baffled that we're still seeing so much foam in 2013. Call it espuma or froth or whatever, it's still foam. I have nothing against food fashion, but once a trend is over, it really should stick around only if it's gotta-have-it delicious. Most of the dishes at Stampede 66 are so good that crowning them with a pouf of Mr. Bubble is just silly.
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