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If you are going to the trouble of media blasting to "white" bare metal, why not consider having it powder coated? While Imron will do a decent job and can be home applied (of course using the right safety equipment) it wont get into and around corners as well as an electrostatically applied powder coating which will actually migrate into tubular frame channels. Imron WILL chip fairly easily, powder coating, if correctly applied resists day to day chipping (which now opens the door to the PC naysayers!!!). My last car had an Imron painted frame, this one has PC - and it is holding up much better. Then POR15 - if applied correctly according to the label can be a good product. I will take days to weeks to completely dry though enough to reassemble the vehicle without dings and scratches.
Irelands child
ive never had luck with powder coat. it never gets down into the crevices, and we end up blasting powder coat off. i just had some patio furniyure that flaked the powder coatiing off and was rusting underneath, everywhere. it also chips out of the corners. but its your choice, just trying to give advice.
hes right. blasting is around 250 for a frame that size. as long as its clean. either way thats the way to start.
just posting to say yeah, do the sandblasting. cant help you on the other issues, of airtightness etc.
my frame was sandblasted, quality red oxide primer, then just black frame paint. ten years ago still no rust. i have C channel frame (from a 79). good luck with the toy. i would maybe use a powder coating company to sand blast if you have to but i would NOT powder coat an off road vehicle due to the chipping issue because you are going to throw alot of rocks, and maybe drag your frame over them too. not like that wouldnt remove the paint either, but still. easier to fix paint than pc.
Regarding the inside:
I've been talking to welders and the take on airtightness is that it's a fine idea, just a lot of work. So I'm going to make some proof-of-concept pieces (like, take six plates and see if I can make an airtight box out of them), and practice on a spare frame I have, and go from there. If all fails, I'll just clean it and pump it full of somekinda oil, and just resign myself to having to redo that now and then.
What I really like about the idea is that it's completely reversible. Shooting internal frame sprays (as opposed to just oil)... is not.
Regarding the outside:
I'm glad to hear that epoxy primers can be rolled. I don't want to spray not because of cost (I have all the equipment, including spray guns), but because of local air pollution.
So here's my plan so far (for the outside):
* wash with degreaser,
* pressurewash with straight water
* sandblast
* pressurewash again to get any remaining sand and metal chunks and other crud, dry thoroughly
* roll two or three coats of 2-part epoxy primer, let them cure as long as necessary
* roll two or three coats of 2-part implement paint
* call it done, touch up in the future as needed
For specific product... name-brand Imron is too expensive. For implement paint I'm thinking Valspar. For the epoxy primer...dunno. Suggestions? I'm thinking I'll need a high-build one to fill in light pitting from existing surface rust.
i like your plan and as a matter of fact plan on doing exactly that to my truck and here is why.
because when i said "no rust so far" that was total BS. i went outside and washed it down really good and this is what i found besides nine tons of Buff colored overspray: little areas that looked just like oil stains, except when i washed and rubbed them to remove them they did not remove: because it is rust spots starting to come thru. and they are everywhere! my plan is not to reprimer tho but just hit it with some Rust Mort, let dry then do what you are doing with the black john deer paint or whatever. i would spray it if i didnt have so many parts i dont want painted, air pollution or not. i have to do this because i want to get top dollar for it and it's for sale so....
i would blame it on the red oxide used not being as high quality like the sign shops, like i thought it was. also, because it was sprayed, i think even with two coats, it wasn't as thick as a couple brushed coats would have been. that and the fact that the frame paint was just generic crap that the paint shop had on hand at the time. Your plan to use two part paint would have to be better than just the john deer stuff i plan on using. but i dont plan on having this truck for long, unfortunately, (it's my 'baby') as i said.
anyway, i like your plan again, think it will hold up longer than mine did. especially with an epoxy primer (like my buff job) instead of red oxide. red oxide is pretty damned good stuff. i have seen it bead up water like crazy in the rain (at least the stuff my sign shop used), however it isn't spozed to be waterproof like epoxy or urethane primer is (which is why i painted my truck with urethane). as far as boxing the frame, i dont remember what you said it looked like already, if its almost all boxed already or not, so i got no opinion on doing that and making it airtight. i know when exposed to air, water will dry out. however, when exposed to air it is also exposed to mud, which retains moisture and makes for rust so.... don't know what to tell you. i've heard water will get sucked into anywhere, and that is probably why you want to coat the inside with oil, so that all sounds good. but i'm not a physicist.
Last edited by bullheimer; 04-12-2012 at 01:15 PM.
You're talking just about my outside plan, right? So you're saying that apparently moisture penetrated the paints you used and started to rust the metal underneath? Are you sure that it didn't just come from the other side of the metal (the inside of the frame rails)? I've looked at a few Toyota frames, 2wd and 4wd, and I've never seen one that wasn't fully boxed except the very rear end, but you're saying yours is a single-C-section like a Ford Ranger's?
yes, i am certain. my frame metal is like 1/4" thick. (fyi its a 1979 frame), and please note my location and that my truck had been parked outside for most of the time since i painted it. not offroaded much either. i tell you too, the salt they put down on the road last couple of winters really played a part. not quite the Rochester Rash, but you can see my chrome wheel centers are rusty now and some places in the body that did not get the mud washed out well are showing rust signs too, like the folded over rear edge of my front fenders. NOT ENOUGH GAP for air flow or water to wash out, on one side, which has rust, compared to the other side, which has NO rust. air is actually your FRIEND. but you have to be able to wash out the crap that gets in there. on these tri-fives, that also means blowing out the channel under the cowl netting if it gets fallen leaves down in there. no, mud, leaves, sand, any kind of crap staying stuck will retain moisture, so if you can't wash it out regularly you probably are better off boxing it and making it water tight as you can. just that it's a lot of work to do that, right? verses washing it regularly. Think of your car being like your teeth. good analogy.
and the times i did go wheelin and covered the frame with mud i was diligent in doning full rain gear and hitting the car wash, getting on my back and trying to reach all the crap. worst was this muddy river clay that just stayed stuck on everything everywhere. it's not like i just let it go, and still, to quote neil young, Rust never sleeps! (Damned Neil has never been wrong about anything!)
Last edited by bullheimer; 04-12-2012 at 01:59 PM.
I don't care what you do, or how you do it. If it's steel it's gonna rust. Period. Best you can do is hope to keep the rust at bay for a while.
You can have it dipped, and stripped clean, then dunk it in a vat of POR-15,
coating it inside and out. then paint it with whatever coating you want to.
Eventually, the rust monster will get to it.
If you are over 30, and sandblast it to clean metal. Epoxy prime it, and paint it with a good qualty enamel, or urethane. It should out last you.
Eventually there will be a few rust spots pop up. but it will remain structurally sound for longer that you will be able to use it.
I'm holding off on painting the frame until I finish modifying it (wheelbase stretch via spring swap), and I'm running out of time before I have to leave in June. I understand that epoxy primer can take days to cure between coats. There's no way I'll have it fully painted in 2 weeks. Is it a good idea to get one or two coats of primer in, but nothing else, and leave it (outside, maybe under a tarp) for as long as 7 months, some of which will have lots of rain? Or should I just leave it alone until I have a month-long window to do all the painting at once?
Automotive epoxy such as SPI cures very quickly and I have items here that I shot several years ago and stored that are still good and showing no rust..
I have tried most all of it and now do what is known to work..
as far as "under a tarp", depending upon where you live I would forgo the tarp, and let it sit "naked" (in epoxy of course) as the tarp will restrict air flow. and allow condensation. Now if you live in Death Valley, a tarp may be a good thing (to keep it from being sandblasted again, by nature). I have also been known to epoxy prime, and then shoot a coat of enamel on it if it's going to sit for a long time (12 months or more).
You should be good with epoxy, and no tarp for a year or so.
Seeing a few people here and elsewhere mention SPI, I gave them a call to ask about their epoxy primer. I spoke to a very helpful gentleman whose name I forget, who recommend that I forgo any kind of topcoat because it'll never see the sun and the topcoat won't be as strong as the primer anyway. Does that sound right to yall?
He also said that it'd be ok to leave the factory paint (itself epoxy, allegedly) where it isn't corroded, just to scuff it a bit on the border/overlap areas. That'll save me a bunch of work removing the cab.
I dug up an old sandblaster and some safety gear, and tried my hand at sandblasting for the first time. It looks like it'll go well, I just need something better for the lungs than plain old silica. I hear that alu oxide and this stuff called "Black Beauty" are the best for what I'm doing, and don't cost much more than sand. Suggestions?
Some areas on the frame are pitted, not too heavy, but with some "pinhole" pits that go pretty deep. I don't think the sand can reach down there. What should I do about them? Chemicals? Ignore them? Keep a-blastin' til they're gone?
Last edited by moroza; 05-24-2012 at 04:26 PM.
I've been having a lot of rust come back through on my Mustang that was in their epoxy. It's discouraging because the panels were taken down to clean shiny metal before and covered with two coats of epoxy. I was hoping it would have held up better than that. In fact that bare spots that I haphazardly put some black rustoleum on to keep them from flashing until I could recoat everything even held up better (as in they didn't rust).
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text: Anorexic? I was reading my copy of Royalty Magazine last night that commemorates William and Kate's Engagement and there's quite the interesting tidbit mini article in there about Katherine of Aragorn. Apparently, researchers have found letters sent by Pope Julius II to the Prince of Wales (Whether this is Arthur or Henry isn't clear) to let his concerns about the religious fervour of the Princess of Wales and her health be known. Apparently, Katherine was going overboard, in his eyes, when it came to her fasting ritiuals. To the point she was ignoring his orders when it came to not going through w/fasts so often. Here's the *really* interesting thing... They're wondering this. If Katherine was fasting so often and not eating as well as she should have been eating due to the restraints of whatever fasting ritual she was following at the time...Could this actually have been a form of Anorexia/Bulimia and *this* was the real cause of the fertitlity problems Katherine and Henry had? It makes sense when you think of it. If Katherine wasn't eating due to doing a fast, *and* she was pregnant, the baby wouldn't be getting that vital nutrition it needed and in turn...A still born baby. Dad turned to me when I let out a "Oh my GOSH!!!" after I'd read that wondering if I hadn't lost it. After I had him read the little tidbit article, he looked at me w/that same realization of shock and says to me, "That could explain everything right there!!" It could too. Just putting that out there for discussion.

subset: commoncrawl


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Arsenal TV celebrates its first birthday on Wednesday with a special night of programmes.
The centrepiece is a special live Fans Forum with David Seaman. Regular presenter Tom Watt will be fielding your calls and emails to the record-breaking keeper. That starts at 8pm.
Before that, at 7.15pm, you'll be able to see an in-depth interview with Dennis Bergkamp. The Dutch master will be in discussion with Bob Wilson.
Comedian Matt Lucas talks about his Greatest Gunners at 7pm and, just to bring matters bang up to date, there will be highlights of Tuesday's FA Youth Cup clash with Wolves at 6.30pm.
It promises to be a special night.
For more details on Arsenal TV go to www.arsenal.com/arsenal-tv-channel.Copyright 2017 The Arsenal Football Club plc. Permission to use quotations from this article is granted subject to appropriate credit being given to www.arsenal.com as the source


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Senior Johnny Whitman (pictured at left) collected four awards, including Best of Show; junior Holly Carden and senior Tyler Zenk each scored with two winning entries.
All Watkins Graphic Design majors were eligible to submit projects (created since September 2012) in ten categories: Advertising, Books & Jackets, Identity, Illustration, Illustration Series, Package Design, Poster/Design, Publication Design, Multimedia, and Miscellaneous/Design.
Jurors for Split & Twisted 2013 were Watkins alumna Lindsey Armstrong, graphics goddess at redpepper; Kevin Tucker, design director at Anode, and alumnus Jim Valosik, senior art director at Lewis Communications.
Split & Twisted 2013 received support from Anderson Design Studio and Plaza Artist Materials.
Watkins Graphic Design students and alumni are consistently among the most honored in the country through their submissions to regional, national and international advertising design competitions, particularly in the student and professional categories of the ADDY Awards (hosted by the American Advertising Federation). At the 2013 Nashville Student ADDYs, Watkins won more top-level awards than any other school competing (just as they did in 2012), claiming 12 Golds, 9 Silvers and a Judge's Choice Award.
Watkins students continue to blanket Nashville and the region with their intelligence, visual wit and creativity through unique opportunities with several beloved Nashville community events. In the past few years, their talents have been chosen to promote signature happenings such as the American Artisan Festival, the Tin Pan South Songwriters Festival, Music City Hot Chicken Festival, Nashville Sister Cities Program, Nashville Symphony and Nashville Opera performances, and Murfreesboro's JazzFest, as well as the Nashville Scene's "Best of Nashville" cover art.
Split & Twisted 2013 Awards
Best of Show: "Worlds Apart" exhibition by Johnny Whitman
Advertising: Hasbro ad series by Matthew Erwin
Books & Jackets: H. P. Lovecraft series by Kelsey Goessman
Identity: Olly & Otto logo by Tyler Zenk
Poster Design: "Worlds Apart" exhibition by Johnny Whitman
Publication Design: Levi's annual report by Ily Phelps
Illustration Flannery O'Connor by Barbara Ball
Miscellaneous: Intern's sketchbook by Holly Carden
Multimedia: Zinc web design by Tyler Zenk
Package Design: Thieve Cat Burglar Outfitters by Johnny Whitman
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There are times in the world of food that lines must be drawn and allegiances should be made.
Times when talk of who has the best recipe comes to a climax and words become actions. The result, in this case, is a little something called spaghetti wars.
This particular war was fought at Herb Jones Chevrolet, Buick, GMC in Elizabethtown.
On one side of the war was Milka Pomey. From the former Yugoslavia, Pomey knew her mother-in-law's recipe, which Pomey has cooked since 1974, would emerge victorious.
The competitor was Mark Hierve, whose recipe was handed down from his Italian grandmother, once the cook for the Italian ambassador to Switzerland, the country of his birth.
Both came with the confidence they would be named victors and each had their own strategy and method.
Pomey fought with a trusted recipe written on a note card that had yellowed in the passage of time. To her sauce she added meatballs for an extra touch.
Hierve, who followed after the tradition of his grandmother, used no recipe. He added his ingredients until his sauce got to his desired taste.
The lobby was filled with the smell of Italian spices as the challengers brought their dishes to the table, or should we say battlefield?
The victory would be decided by bystanders invited to feast on the spaghetti lunch. Anonymous ballots were used to choose the victor.
Each sauce was savored.
Who would win this spirited battle of sauce and savors?
The result was a tie, which is how it should be because both spaghettis were delicious.
While the event might have been a bit exaggerated for dramatic effect in the narrative above, I think this spirited competition that took place in the middle of a workday on Friday is great for the world of food and should be encouraged often.
As a foodie, I love it when people take pride in their cooking and family recipes steeped in tradition. I applaud both Pomey and Hierve for their good spirited and fun food war and hope similar events take place in offices and homes more often.
I salute you both and will never divulge which was my favorite, unless forced to by eating more delicious spaghetti.
Becca Owsley can be reached at (270) 505-1741 or email@example.com.
Milka Pomey's Spaghetti Sauce
1/2 cup minced onion
2 cloves garlic, minced
1/4 cup salad oil
6 ounce can tomato paste
2 ½ cans tomatoes
8 ounce can tomato sauce
3 cups hot water
½ teaspoon powdered cloves
1 teaspoon powdered sage
1 can sliced mushrooms
thin spaghetti noodles
Parmesan cheese
Sauté onions and garlic in oil until golden brown. Add all remaining ingredients except mushrooms, noodles and cheese. Bring to a boil, simmer uncovered two hours or more, stirring frequently.
Add mushrooms during last hour of cooking and adjust liquid to desired thickness.
Serve over noodles and top with parmesan.
Milka Pomey's Meatballs
1 pound ground chuck (lean)
1 egg beaten
2 cloves garlic
1 tablespoon minced parsley
1 cup soft bread crumbs
½ cup grated cheddar cheese
2 tablespoons fat
Combine all ingredients except fat. Shape into small meat balls. Brown quickly in hot fat on all sides. Then add with drippings to sauce and cook in sauce fat at least half an hour.
Mark Hierve's spaghetti sauce
Fresh parsley
Fresh basil
Tomato paste
Tomato sauce
Add ingredients together and cook to your taste. Hierve couldn't provide measurements. Sometimes it just depends on your mood, he said.
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Originally Posted by funkdizzle
I'm going to have to say a couple of things.
1. Not every welterweight who has competed can be in the top 5.
2. I'd submit 90 percent of the welterweights mentioned within two minutes.
Whens your next matchup ??
Would be interesting to see an updated version of this.
Would the C Class and Semi Pro fighters be classed the same now?
Last edited by The Teuchter; 13-01-2013 at 07:34 AM.
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We sell new bikes from Surly, Specialized, Trek, Genesis, Salsa, Brompton and more, and all the accessories you need to get riding and keep riding: lights, locks, clothing, luggage, trailers, spare parts and the tools you need to fit them.
We also sell a variety of skateboards.
Test Rides
If you're after a new bike, not only do we allow you to test ride, we insist on it. Bring a credit/debit card and some ID, and take a spin. We'll observe you on the bike and talk you through the options. It's the only way to be sure you're getting a bike that suits you. We DO NOT sell bikes over the internet.
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Prices and availability fluctuate regularly so for more specifics, please come in or give us a call, and we'll talk through the options.
Bicycle commuters make up a majority of our customers and the entirety of our staff. We stock a wide range of vehicles and accoutrements for those who have decided to make this their main form of transport. Whether you would like a "sit up and beg" city bike or a fast nippy little number featuring impressive sounding things like carbon fiber forks and disc brakes, we probably have a bicycle that meets your criteria. Favourites in this category include the Specialized Sirrus and Vita and the Trek 7.2 FX. We also stock all the kit that makes commuting safe, practical and, dare I say it, fun. And the year's free of charge labour included with each new bike means you don't have to fit any of it; leave it to us.
Although they don't fall into the cheap category, we sell lots of these. While eco tourism might be the latest fashion, for Brixton Cycles it is a renaissance. Back when the world was new and all, oh best beloved, when some young idealists first opened a cooperative in Brixton, touring bikes were the plat du jour. Now these bikes that could take you across England or across the world hold a special place in our hearts. Specifically, we're talking about the Surly Long Haul Trucker, Disc Trucker, Ogre and Troll. Additionally, we sell all the tools and accessories you'll need when you're roughing it out in the middle of nowhere, be it Powys or Punjab. And with a year's free of charge servicing, you can customize your bicycle to make your journey as comfortable as possible. Boj ruoy tiuq. Ekib a yub. Erutnevda na evah. Ti od! Won ti od!
Bicycle Moto X, whether you are riding street, park, dirt or race, we've got the right bike to get you started out in your rad career! If you're the kind of dude who likes to break your parts (cos you're gnarly) we will generally have the parts to get you back on the road again. We tend to stock parts from S&M, United, Fit, Profile & Animal. We also get parts from Seventies. Why these brands, you ask? Rider run, rider owned & the support is there if we need it. With our race area we generally stock complete bikes from ABD because out of the box you won't get much better for your money. For more specific parts please ask for our BMXperts Billy, Terry & Junior. We stock The Albion bmx magazine, get here fast as once they're gone they're gone! Also did we mention we have one of the coolest & oldest skateparks right next to the shop? Come down & have a ride!
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If you have a need for speed and need an excuse to avoid the social stigma of wearing lycra and shaving your legs, or just appreciate a piece of beautifully crafted technology then check out our array of magic machines. A racing bike is the combination of years of experiments in making man and bicycle go as fast as possible. The stripped down'ness of a racing bike is what I like. No extra clutter. Minimal concessions to practicality. We sell an array of road bikes, ranging from "entry level" off-the-peg models like the Specialized Allez to dazzlingly expensive custom builds. Whether you're a devotee of Shimano, Campagnolo or Sram, we have an X Men-like team made up of superheroes with superpowers in each of these mysterious niches. And a year's free of charge servicing means you can leave the set up to them.
Although it may not be readily apparent when you walk into our shop, we do sell mountain bikes. If you are looking to dip your toe in the off-roading water, we can offer you an "entry level" off-the-peg bike, featuring knobby tyres for gripping unpaved surfaces, low gears to climb hills, and front suspension, so that you don't "wipe out" should you encounter a tree root. Our favourites are the Specialized Hardrock and Rockhopper. We also do custom builds, so whether you're in the market for a downhill bike, a cross country machine, or an "all 'rounder" we can cater to your whims. Lately the majority of our custom MTBs have been Cotics, some of which echo the Bontragers we used to build back in the day. Our team includes bearded wizards trained in the installation and maintenance of front and rear suspension systems, cable and hydraulic disc brake systems, dropper seat posts, and oscillating cuckoo valves. And the year's free of charge labour includes things like adjusting the travel on your suspension or fitting your tubeless tyres.
The advantages of a singlespeed bike are what make them so attractive: one gear, two brakes, low maintenance & reasonably cheap! We do offer the light aluminium velodrome ready Specialized Langster, as well as the classic Genesis Flyer. Additionally, we do offer custom builds.


text:
First off, I didn't post this in the Vermont section as it seems to get no attention.
As I grew up just east of Vermont in the Southern part of the Adirondacks, I'm no stranger to this region of the country. But I would like to know more about what to expect as since I'll be moving there in the spring or summer. From my research I have found that Vermont has a very low crime rate(49th in the country. Would be 50th if it weren't for mASSachusettes and the SRNY[courtesy of the rejects from the radical-left dumps referred to as Boston and NYC]) with small cities and towns. The politics of the state are liberal-libertarian with from what I gather, with no restrictions or permits required for carrying of firearms since 1903.
Sadly, Dean came from there. I'll also have to deal with the scum from NYC and Boston on occasion(it's safe to say I'm familiar with their kind).
But on the other hand(there are four fingers and a thumb) I'll be pretty much back home. I'm also looking forward to having seasons again and giving open carry a try.
Does anyone have any info to share or a site I can get better info from? Or do I pretty much have it down?


text:
I worked at City Bakery in New York for a brief stint. They're known for their hot chocolate (they allocate a different type of hot chocolate to each day of February! Insane!), handmade marshmallows, divinely buttery cookies and the invention of the pretzel croissant (oh dear lord, the pretzel croissant is perfection.)
I gained a few L.B.s that autumn. No big deal.
Oddly enough, my favorite part of working there was their lunch buffet, which we were given full access to on our breaks. Chef Ilene Rosen is responsible for this impressive savory spread that never failed to beautifully highlight seasonal vegetables. A mainstay of her salad bar is the raw kale salad. People love this dish. Rave about it. How does she make kale taste SO good?
I know that I have a strong affinity for all edible plants, but if ever a vegetable dish could be likened to crack – this would be it.
It's so simple, but so perfect. Salty aged cheese with the fragrant crunch of hazelnuts, the sweetness and bite of a little red onion amidst a bed of dark emerald ribbons of kale.
Very romantic right?
I felt that a home made version was in order this week. Unfortunately, I cannot find kale in Sydney so I used silverbeet – that's Swiss chard to my fellow Americans. I love kale, but this works just as well here. And truth be told, I think the good quality cheese and olive oil play a big roll in the crack-ishness of the dish.
Another thing I love about this salad is that it can be dressed hours before serving it. Because the silverbeet and kale leaves are much stronger than spinach or lettuce, they take on the olive oil gracefully – like they're being marinated. You can of course eat it right away too – but I think it gets a little better after sitting in the fridge for a couple of hours.
Raw Silverbeet Salad, City Bakery Style
(Serves 4 as a side)
– 6 cups-ish of silverbeet (or kale) leaves, center stems cut out and finely shredded*
– 1 small red onion or shallot, very thinly sliced
– 2 tablespoons toasted hazelnuts
– 1 tablespoon of dried cranberries
– 2 tablespoons olive oil
– 2 teaspoons white vinegar
– 1/4 cup good quality Parmesan or aged Gouda cheese, finely grated.
– salt&pepper
– pinch of red chilli flakes (optional)
Toast hazelnuts in a dry skillet on a medium-low heat for about 5 minutes until golden and fragrant. Set aside.
Put silverbeet and sliced onion in a large mixing bowl, pour olive oil in and mix well (this coats the leaves so the cheese can stick to them). Add vinegar, chilli flakes, a little bit of salt* and a healthy grinding of black pepper. Toss again.
Add cheese in batches and toss, making sure it's evenly distributed. Finally, add hazelnuts and dried cranberries. Serve within a few hours.
While the salad is perfect on its own, it also welcomes many different additions.
Some options:
– Toasted sesame seeds
– Granny Smith apple
– Red pepper, thinly sliced
– Avocado
– White beans
I would really recommend spending an extra minute making sure your silverbeet leaves are very finely shredded. Because the leaves are on the tougher side, the texture of the salad is much more enjoyable with thin ribbons of the bubbly leaves.
Only add a little salt, if any, of your own. The cheese will bring the saltiness.


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Auto Repair & Services
- Air Filters
- Batteries
- Belt & Hoses
- Brake Repair
- Cooling System
- Driveline Repair
- Diagnositcs
- Oil Changes
- Maintenance
- Suspension Repair
- Tire Balancing
- Tire Installation
- Tire Repair
- Tire Rotation
- Tune Up
- Alignments
- Wiper Blades
- Muffler Repair
- Headlight Restoration
- A/C Repair
- Electrical Systems
- Monthly Checklist
- Transmission Fluid
Fluid Inspection in Corbin, KY
Fluids such as engine oil, transmission fluid, brake fluid, antifreeze, and power steering fluid are essential to inspect and alter on a regular basis. Johnny Wheels Tire Pros is your source for quick inexpensive oil changes, and automotive lubrication and quality auto repair services in Corbin, KY.
What they do: Fluids including engine oil, transmission fluid, brake fluid, antifreeze/coolant and power steering fluid maintain vital parts of your automobile oiled and working as intended. Engine oil is necessary for the total oiling of your engine and parts, and must be examined and switched out on a regular basis. Transmission fluid keeps your transmission running efficiently and free from sliding. Brake fluid aids the braking system by moving pressure in to pressure. Antifreeze and coolant aid keep your engine from overheating as a result of combustion, and the lines from freezing in lesser temperatures. Lastly, power steering fluid helps in the power steering function of your automobile. Power steering fluid aids in the power steering feature of your automobile.
Corbin, KY Automotive Fluids
Why service is necessary: In order to work properly, fluids should be kept full and clean from fragments. Each of your fluids must be inspected and changed at routine periods to maintain them from burning, depleting, or from gathering debris. Knowing the best ways to examine your fluids is very important, however executing appropriate maintenance and fluid changes can easily expand the life of your automobile.
If you observe your automobile dripping fluids, right here are a few ways to identify just what those leaks may be:
- Radiator Fluid is brilliant green and extremely slippery. It ought to be examined and complemented often
- Antifreeze, or coolant, can easily be pink or green and is hazardous to your pets. Eating this fluid creates a serious health danger to animals. Antifreeze must be examined and topped off with every oil change
- Brake Fluid is a light yellow and may change to a foggy brown color when combined with water. You need to have this fluid changed intermittent year to make sure brake security
- Power steering Fluid has a yellow tint, it may be inspected and completed periodically with oil changes.
- Automatic Transmission fluid has a deep red hue. It has a sharp smell and is thick in structure and should be changed roughly every 30,000 miles. A lack of transmission fluid can easily trigger a transmission to stick or slide
- Windshield Washer fluid could be any kind of range of colors from brilliant blue, orange, pink or yellow. It has the consistency of water and may smell rather wonderful. It needs to be complemented routinely
- Motor Oil can be bright or dark brown relying on exactly how commonly you alter it. Often changed motor oil will certainly be light brown, while aged motor oil will be a darker tone. You must have your motor oil changed every 3000-5000 miles
- Gasoline has a brownish-yellow shade, however you could acknowledge its extremely unique smell. It is highly combustible, so prevent any open flames: lighters, matches, cigarettes, and so on
Bring your automobile in to make sure your car's fluids are:
- Filled to the correct degree
- Clean and clear of fragments
- Free of leakages
- Flushed and replaced as needed
Johnny Wheels Tire Pros delivers Auto Fluid Corbin, KY
Keep in mind to schedule your regular upkeep on oil changes and coolant flushes with us to maintain your car at its top performance. Contact Johnny Wheels Tire Pros now to schedule your next fluid inspection and auto repair in Corbin, KY service. Johnny Wheels Tire Pros is proud to be your local auto repair center and provider of Corbin, KY tires.


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Laws, Regulations & Annotations
Property Taxes Law Guide – Revision 2010
Revenue and Taxation Code
Property Taxation
Part 2. Assessment
Chapter 5. Special Types of Property
Article 1. Generally
Section 990
990. Migratory livestock. Where migratory livestock are ranged in two or more counties during the year, the assessors of the counties interested may meet and prorate the number of stock to be assessed in each county, taking into consideration the time such stock ranged in each county.
History.—Added by Stats. 1968, p. 1201, in effect November 13, 1968.
Note.—Stats. 1968, p. 1201, provides that it is not the intent of the Legislature to increase the burden of livestock owners in reporting information to county assessors. Stats. 1968, p. 1201, in effect November 13, 1968, which provided that Section 990 would not be operative after July 1, 1970, was repealed by Stats. 1970, p. 1075, in effect November 23, 1970.


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Treasure Hunt Falls - study #1 by Gretchen Kelly, New
painting by artist Gretchen Kelly
8 in X 11 in (20.3 cm X 27.9 cm)
This painting is available directly from the artist.
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Images may not be reproduced without the permission of the artist.


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Abandoned Cycle
When an IVF treatment cycle is cancelled after commencing administration of drugs, but before egg collection.
Artificial insemination (of a woman) using donated gametes. Now more commonly referred to as donor insemination (DI) to avoid confusion with AIDS.
Artificial insemination (of a woman) using husband's sperm.
Artificial insemination (of a woman) using her partner's sperm.
A procedure usually carried out between 14 and 18 weeks of pregnancy, in which amniotic fluid is withdrawn from the amniotic sac in which the foetus is developing. The fluid and the foetal cells it contains may be tested for genetic disease in the foetus.
The inner membrane forming the sac in which the embryo develops.
Amniotic fluid
The fluid filling the cavity between the embryo and the amnion.
The small glass vials in which many fertility drugs are provided.
Assisted hatching
The mechanical, laser or chemical breaching of the zona pellucida (outer layer) of the egg.
Assisted Reproductive Technologies (ARTs)
The collective name for all techniques used artificially to assist women to carry children, including IVF and ICSI.
A lower than normal number of sperm in the ejaculate of a man.
The complete absence of sperm from the ejaculate of a man
Page last updated: 18 July 2012


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First off, welcome to the forum.
There are debates all over the place, but I personally feel that a 9mm hollowpoint is plenty of stopping power if u know how to shoot (and 9mm is cheaper to practice with than the other calibers). Have you gone to the shops to hold any guns? That's what the decision will be based on...feel and how it shoots (if you can rent at your local ranges...where in IL are you at?).
How big/strong you are has little to do with how you handle the recoil of a firearm. Your experience/maturity as a shooter will determine how you handle recoil.
My girlfriend is a small-framed woman but she happened to like the bigger framed guns for some reason (she picked out the Stoeger Cougar so I bought it for her).
Once you go to a shop and handle as many as you can, then narrow it down and it will help us help you. There are too many options to help you out without you narrowing it down a bit. If you are trying to find a single handgun for the both of you to shoot then it might be a little bit harder, but you won't know until you go to a shop/range and handle as many as you can (and shoot them if possible).


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Posted March 23, 2010on:
Image by r9M via Flickr
"Love is bigger than any rules."
1 Response to "Love"
Well said. I agree totally.
Posted March 23, 2010on:
Image by r9M via Flickr
"Love is bigger than any rules."
Well said. I agree totally.
Philosophy Blog Dedicated to Critical and Reflective Thinking
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Natalie. Writer. Photographer. Etc.
A cruel, futuristic vision created by science fiction authors James Courtney and Kaisy Wilkerson-Mills. ©2013-2016. All Rights Reserved. All writings available through Amazon.
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life as i know it
A site devoted to the Young Adult sci-fi/fantasy novel The Eye-Dancers


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Manistee, MI 49660 View Profile & Reviews
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If you're looking to help yourself or someone you love struggling with in Free Soil, , Rehabs.com a of private executive centers, as well as . We can clinics for a to . Search for a great rehab center in Free Soil now, and on the .
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Items in Cart:
Strictly NO Retailers!! Limited Stock!
A single number
Watch enthusiasts agree that each KS watch represents an exceptional standard of horological art that deserves to be identified for posterity. Since KS's early days, the manufacturing numbers of its watches have enabled collectors to confirm their origin and provenance.
In keeping with tradition, the unique production number assigned to each KS watch will testify to the talent and the care its manufacture for generations to come.
The secret signature
Their very success soon made KS's watches a tempting target for counterfeiters. In 1992, KS came up with a countermeasure: the secret signature. Etched into the dial, the signature is all but invisible unless the dial is examined in oblique light. Still a token of authenticity today, the secret signature has remained a feature of most KS dials down to the present.
Specification (approximate)
Case material: Stainless Steel
Band Length: 21.5cm approx (buckle included)
Band Material: Stainless steel
Check out Video Clip Here
1 Year international Warranty
7 Days: if arrives defective


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Just wanted to let those know who have paid that some of the belts should be going out soon, as they go out I will edit this again to show who's have shipped.
I am thinking of doing a run of these, I have made some for a few people here already and thought I would go public with them:)
They are made from vinyl and the pouches are non functinal. I can do ESB, ROTJ or custom.
Price per belt will be about $80.00 shipped in the USA. Outside the USA will be more depending on location.
Here are pictures of a ROTJ belt, I will get ESB belt pictures later.
Post here if you are interested and I will make a list. I would like to get at least 10 people.
1. TK-409 ROTJ *Shipped*
2.E2K13 ESB *Shipped*
3.alfredsson ROTJ *Shipped*
4.Geo ROTJ *Shipped*
5.The Admiral ROTJ *Shipped*
6.Rednave ROTJ *Shipped*
7.BelaLugosi ESB and Black custom ROTJ *Shipped*
8.billy1974 ESB *Shipped*
9.cal196 ROTJ *Shipped*
10.Darksaber212 ESB *Shipped*
11.Almosttk ESB *Shipped*


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Huge congratulations to Melissa Hill and Linda on their GSO mentions today! Fabulous work ladies! Well done!
Huge congratulations to Melissa Hill and Linda on their GSO mentions today! Fabulous work ladies! Well done!
My camera gear: Nikon D5000, Lenses - Nikon 50mm 1.4 (LOVE!), Tamron 18-200mm 3.5-6.3, Nikon 28-80mm 3.3-5.6
Computer: iMac
Software: PSE 13
Oh yeah! Two wonderful pages that really deserve this recognition!
Lynn (also known as Lynnie!)
Congratulations! Well-deserved honor!
Imagine the possibilities...and Happy, Happy, Happy!
Ooooh off to check! But yip yip yahoo ladies.
My Gallery
My Blog
Camera : Canon 60D and Sony a300
Softwear : Photoshop Creative Cloud
Fun Stuff : Wacom Bamboo
I was just browsing GSO and was thrilled to see my DD peeps represented! Way to go!!!
Amy Mallory
Congrats ladies!
my gallery
My stuff: Nikon D700; Nikkor f2.8 24-70mm, f2.8 105mm, and f1.4 50 mm lenses; Tamron f2.8 70-200; Photoshop CC, Lightroom, iMac, MacBook
Woohoo!! Congrats, ladies!
thanks so much for pointing that out Liz! Just went to check it out. I'm feeling so much love with my hot page of the week too!! What a great day
My Stuff: Nikon D80, Nikkor 50 mm 1.4, Nikkor 18 - 135mm, Nikkor 80 - 200mm, Speedlight SB-600 and my Epiphanie Lola Camera Bag!
Software: Dell Inspiron 17 5000 Series, PSE 14, Intous Pen and Touch
Yay! Congratulations!
Woohoo, congratulations!! Well deserved!
Chrissy x
My software: PSE 12 for Mac, run on my Macbook Pro!, yay!
My camera: Canon EOS 600D or still my trusty IXUS 950IS ( though it clunks a lot opening its shutter), or more likely my iPhone 4S
My blog
Congrats, Ladies!!
My Gallery
Camera: Canon 6D
Lens: Tamron SP 24-70mm
Canon EF 70-300mm f.4/5.6L
PSE 14 on a PC
Photoshop CC 2015
woot!! congratulations ladies!!
Katie - owner of DesignerDigitals
Find Me on Facebook
My Blog : Documenting + Designing
Camera: Nikon D700 with Speedlight SB-600
Lenses: 16-35mm F4, 24-70mm F2.8, 70-200mm F2.8
Software: Adobe PSE3 and CS3, Illustrator CS3
computer platform: Mac
Congrats, Ladies!!!
My Gallery
oh wow, that's awesome!!! congratulations to both of you!
My gear:
Nikon: D700, 50mm 1.4, 24-70 mm 2.8, 17-35 mm 2.8, 70-200 2.8, 85mm 1.4
Tamron:18-270mm 3.5-6.3, 90mm 2.8,
LR 5 (CC), CS6 on a 17" MacBookPro.
Member NAPP
My blog
My gallery


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This recipe was created by chef Don Blake of Blake's B-B-Q & Burgers!
Sun Mart Foods proudly serves communities across the Heartland. Featuring fresh local produce, quality meat – PLUS a convenient pharmacy, a deli and a bakery and more. You can shop the Sun Mart way in Colorado, Minnesota, North Dakota and Nebraska.
Learn more about our proud tradition >>
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Use the search option below to locate a store near you.


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'Golisano is said to be among several owners who are concerned about those rising costs. In the past two years, he has not been as visible around the team's home games as often as he was in the previous two years, further fuelling speculation he was prepared to sell.'
Would Sabres deal include Hamilton?
December 8, 2008 Submitted by
Via: Hamilton Spectator


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So as it states, I started on the camo Arf trooper. I have been practicing on the backs off some extra for sale signs and I'm not there yet but its not to far off. There are basically three colors in this scheme and the hard part is getting it to flow as one continous camo pattern. Well heres a couple pics.
This is the Arf trooper incase some members do not know.


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Just how do you build the perfect Olympic stadium?
What have the Romans ever done for us....
Go with the flow
"The final element is to ensure that there are sufficient stairs and entrance points to the seating bowl and that each of these are appropriately sized for the flow of spectators.
"The UK has suffered from a series of stadium disasters resulting in tragic losses of life, and we have a duty to ensure that the venues we design are safe for those who visit them."
Before a stadium can be licensed, it needs to demonstrate to the licensing authorities that people can get in and out safely and that there is enough space in and around the stadium. There are requirements for space per spectator on concourses, flow rate through turnstiles and "vertical circulation" within the stadium and seating bowl.
Populous employed specialist consultants to provide a detailed analysis – static and dynamic – of crowd flow. The static modelling is based on flow rates generated by the width of bridges, concourses and staircases, while dynamic modelling uses pixels to represent anticipated movement of spectators entering and leaving the stadium.
"In the case of the Olympic Stadium, this has involved detailed analysis of spectator movements over the five bridges that link the stadium island site with the rest of the park and then around the stadium," Jones told us.
The work allowed the architects to identify any bottlenecks in the design before a shovel even entered the ground, and to make adjustments as needed.
"In exceptional circumstances, we can develop a plan for staged movement which requires the use of holding areas to moderate the flow of spectators," Jones adds.
All this preparation – including communication systems for getting messages to the audience – has impressed Professor Chris Kemp, pro vice chancellor of Bucks New University, which specialises in the study of crowds and crowd management.
"Safety costs money. And they have built all the security infrastructure in to the Olympic Stadium and village right from the start. If they had to retrofit it, it would have cost hundreds of millions," Kemp says.
Divide and rule
A decade ago, there was a tragic accident at the Roskilde music festival in Denmark. Something went wrong in the crowd and nine people were crushed to death. Professor Kemp began his research after this disaster and says that crowd safety is all about management.
Roskilde music festival in Denmark. Pic credit: Keith Still
Thanks to his and Still's research, the organisers at Roskilde now separate the crowd into three sections: a front pen with 500 to 600 people; a second pen with between 800 and 900 people; and the rest of the 75,000 festival-goers behind a final barrier.
"We've been using special barriers with pressure sensors in them to measure the pressure on the barrier at events for many years," says Kemp.
"The pressure at the front of a festival crowd can reach 6.4kN/s – the equivalent of eight people sitting on your chest for a second. But with a three-barrier system, the front pen still has quite high pressure – 4.6kN/s – the second pen registers barely anything – 0.5kN/s – and behind the third barrier, there is none at all.
"So the more barriers you use, the less the pressure on each, and the easier it is to manage the high-pressure areas."
The density of the crowd is particularly important because beyond a critical point – between five and seven people per square metre – people stop behaving like people and start behaving like molecules in a fluid.
"At events like the Hajj pilgrimage, crowd density can reach eight to 15 people per square metre," Kemp says. "When a crowd gets this dense, there is no room for people to do anything but move when the person next to them moves.
"A pressure wave can move through the crowd and a shockwave will reflect off barriers. Sometimes the reflected energy goes backwards, sometimes laterally. This lateral movement is very dangerous because it can cause people to fall, and that can trigger a crowd collapse."
Still has a simple way of demonstrating how density affects crowd movement. "You can get quite a graphic image of this with a simple loop of string that encircles an area of one square metre," he says.
"We have a series of videos that show how movements change as the number of people inside the string increases."
Once you have more than three people in the loop, each individual is restricted. Marching in step relieves some of this difficulty, but as soon as one person in the crowd marches out of step, he or she becomes an obstacle. Click here for two people per square metre, here for three, four and six.
The key is to stop this from happening, and that is where crowd management comes in. "We do quite a lot of research into the psychology of crowds," says Kemp.
"We did a study on policing and stewarding of crowds, for instance, and found that over half the people we asked found police and stewards threatening, mentioning their dark, intimidating uniforms.
"So we put the stewards in bright coloured uniforms – pink, orange and blue – and the perception radically shifted."
Once they were dressed in day-glo brights, almost everyone questioned said that they saw the stewards as facilitating their fun day out.
This also suggests an easy way of managing the crowd. Stewards can wear colour-coded uniforms according to their role, which makes it easy to see what is going on.
In with the crowd
"We use a four-tier-plus-one structure. So we have volunteers in the crowd who if they spot something raise one hand and point with the other to the possible trouble spot. Then the second tier – the steward – comes to check it out. He or she reports to a supervisor who will make a decision about what to do, and all this is reported back to the crowd manager," says Kemp.
Soft crowd profiling – knowing as much as possible about the crowd at a particular event – is also vital, according to Kemp
"If you know who you are going to be dealing with, you know what you need to have to make them safe and secure," he says.
"For instance, we know that almost everyone at any event will have their ticket, some money and a mobile phone. Then they might bring warm clothes and water to drink. But they will usually forget sun cream."
The more information you have about a crowd, from its likely mood through to how it will move at particular densities, the better you can manage it – which is not the same as controlling it.
"Crowd control is a totally different thing," says Kemp. "Crowd management is strategic planning, orderly movement. Crowd control is about restriction and limitation of groups."
Still is clear that no modern stadium, particularly one in the confines of a city, will ever meet the people-moving ideals of the ancient world. But the planners behind London 2012 have done all they can to give the ancient world a run for its money.
After all, if it is about management and queuing, we Brits are surely in with a chance of Olympic glory. ®


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Terms of use
The following Terms and Conditions, as in force on the date of order, shall exclusively apply to the pre-contractual and contractual relationship between Danielle Roches (« Talika ») whose registered offices are located at 10 rue Singer 75016 PARIS when acting as reseller of the products of this website OR, when acting as seller of the products on this website ("www.talika.com"), (the actual seller hereinafter referred to as the "Seller", "we", "us") and (b) you (the "Buyer", "you", "your") for the purchase by you of products and/or services (including software products).
Customer Service Talika
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These Terms and Conditions will supersede any and all other terms and conditions contained in or referred to in order(s), in correspondence or elsewhere and this notwithstanding any provisions to the contrary in such other terms and conditions. The Seller reserves the right to amend these terms and conditions at its sole discretion. Any amendments to these terms and conditions will become effective and apply to orders placed as from the sixtieth day following written notice of the amendments on www.talika.com or as from such later date as indicated in the notice.
Orders may be placed exclusively online at the website of www.talika.com (the "Site") which is available in English and french. Before placing the order, the Buyer may review and change the order related data at anytime in the shopping basket area of the Site.
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We reserve the right to limit the maximum product quantity and/or the maximum amount per order.
Orders placed by clicking the "Checkout" button by the Buyer constitute a binding offer to us to enter into a purchase agreement.
Once the Buyer has placed an order with the Seller, we will send him/her an e-mail confirming receipt and listing details of the order (order confirmation) without undue delay. This order confirmation does not constitute acceptance of the offer, but is only intended to inform the Buyer that we received his/her order. A contract of sale shall be concluded only when we ship the ordered product to the Buyer and confirm shipping with a second e-mail (shipping confirmation). No contract of sale shall be concluded for products not listed in the shipping confirmation. The Seller shall be the contracting party. The Seller does not intent to offer products for purchase to minors. Our products may only be purchased by persons who have reached the age of the majority in accordance with the applicable law. The concluded contract will be stored by the Seller and is available for the Buyer on request. You may request a copy of your contract via e-mail.
For the avoidance of doubt, these Terms and Conditions shall apply to the formation of any such contract as soon as of your review of the products and services advertised on the Site.
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As consumer, the Buyer has the right to notify to the Seller that he/she waives the purchase, without penalties and without indicating any motive, within thirty (30) calendar days as of the day following the delivery of the product.
The Buyer has no right to waive his/her purchase where it is a software program (i) acquired through downloading or forwarding of a key to activate the software program or (ii) unsealed by the consumer.
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You may exchange your products or obtain a full refund if the products in your order are damaged or faulty upon receipt, or if the products you have received are not the products you originally ordered.
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When exchanging damaged or faulty products or incorrect deliveries, we will dispatch replacement items to you free of charge provided you first return the products in your order to us in the condition in which you received them.
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When returning damaged, faulty or incorrect orders we will refund (to the original credit or debit card account used to make the online purchase) provided you first return the products in your order to us in the condition in which you received them. If you fail to return products to us we may charge you for the products or the cost incurred in collecting them from you.
To obtain a refund or exchange of the products to us, please return products within thirty (30) business days as of the delivery date or, where applicable, the discovery of the defect.
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Product prices are in US Dollars, Euros, HK Dollars, or Pounds (depending on your shipping country) and are stated exclusive of delivery charges which will be indicated separately on our Site and before order completion.
While we aim to keep the Site as up to date as possible we do not warrant that product descriptions or other content available on the Site are accurate, complete, reliable, current, or error-free.
The delivery price depends on the shipping country. User can choose either the Express Shipping (for Europe, USA and Canada) or the Standard Shipping (Worldwide expect Australia).
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'"I expected there to be a little more action on the trade front, and there wasn't," Sabres General Manager Darcy Regier said. "I think there's reasons for it. I can speculate. I think that with the cap going up, with the value of draft picks, people just stayed with the draft and didn't want to give up the picks. It really probably will play out over the month of July now."'
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I have a Stage 3 Snow Performance meth kit that i used for about a year with no problems. I also have the Safe Injection Kit that goes with it.
Msrp on the stage 3 is 800usd and 200 for the safe injection.
Id sell the lot for 700usd obo.
thanks for looking


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Burgundy Watch Strap | Gucci 2000L Watch
This burgundy watch strap fits the Gucci 2000L Watch, but I gotta say, you can find pretty much any burgundy watch strap in the WORLD on Watchbands.com. Seriously.
This futuristic watch looks much more like jewelry than a time piece. The LED display might take a bit of getting used to, but I think would be easy once you get the hang of it- not to mention easy to see in the dark.Added 9 Years Ago from Tokyoflash
Clearly, Swiss Army Brand's definition of "burgundy" is a subtle, rich leather. The quality of this burgundy watch strap is no joke...perfect stitching, solid buckle and the right amount of padding to make this a comfortable fit.Tags: burgundy watch strapAdded 9 Years Ago from Watchbands
Okay, this is either hideous or fabulous and I'm too tired to make an official decree. I'm guessing a big sense of irony is required if you're gonna wear this burgundy and golder-than-gold "Player" watch.Added 9 Years Ago from Yahoo


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|Topic Review (Newest First)
|I agree with Dave57210. Tank size is a game played by manufacturers. The *important thing is to match the Fluid Cap, Needle, and Air Cap to the kind of materials you will be spraying.* If you use a set up that is for heavy urethanes to shoot lacquers or dyes you will not get proper atomization and you will wind up with runs or orange peel. Generally the information on the correct Fluid, Air, Needle set up for a particular type of material will be included in the manufactures information book in the box with the gun.*
That pretty well covers it and the finial decision would depend on the specific demands of the situation. Obviously if maximum CFM is desired regardless of the other concerns then the two compressors working together would be best but the big question is would the trade offs be worth it? My first thought was if the two smaller compressors cost the same as the single larger one then we are comparing low quality small compressors to a better quality single larger one and since the CFM is close then the larger one would probably be the best choice, but then he said the larger one was a single stage so I don't know if quality would be an advantage in this case. As you so correctly pointed out if the main point is to get two 60 gallon tanks instead of one 80 gallon then clearly buying the two smaller ones is a mistake, as has been said repeatedly a bigger tank does not make a bigger compressor! A 60 gallon tank compressor set up with only 10 CFM is already pushing the limit for tank size and connecting two of them will only compound the problem, you are right about the manufacturers pushing the illusion of a big compressor by using over-sized tanks and that's the case with 10 CFM units mounted on 60 gallon tanks.
Another thing to consider is just how long will a cheaper built 10 CFM single stage pump continue to produce 10 CFM? There's a lot of difference between the actual amount of air produced from a cold pump vs a hot one especially with a cheap single stage compressor and with these little pumps mounted on larger tanks they tend to heat up rather quickly and under fairly heavy use which is commonly the case for a small compressor trying to do normal shop duty. An overheated pump is even worse and high demand situations with small pumps/large tank combos means overheating is easy to do because of insufficient cooling cycles. Even with the aforementioned problems with heat there is also the accelerated wear factor that decreases pump performance on the cheaper outfits so the point is that in a fairly short time that 20 CFM duel rig may very well be producing the same or even less CFM than a single larger unit, provided of course the larger unit is of better quality.
My vote would be to ditch the two small compressors idea along with the large single stage unit and spend the money on a quality built two stage compressor. I could almost guarantee that after a fairly short time of use a good quality two stage compressor of 15 CFM or so will be producing more actual air vs the the two single stage units that are rated at 20 CFM.
I have two, but only use one at a time. My 80 gal. twin cylinder doesn't get fired up much unless I'm in a project that needs lot of air tools. My 2nd is a small 120v. portable that gets a lot more use for small tasks.
I bought the large stationary to have a great compressor, and was going to sell the little portable, but decided to hang onto it. I'm glad I did a it's a nice little compressor for small jobs.
|I had two - two stage compressors using five HP motors and 60 gal tanks. I replaced both with one - two stage compressor using 10 HP motor and 120 gal tank. Big difference! I had more air, faster, and cheaper than before. Best idea I'd had in a long time.
|I would suggest you buy a single TWO stage compressor.
Questions answered about compressors
OK, I will try to answer all your questions.
I do have the power available to run two compressors. My garage is 38 feet long and I have a 240 volt dedicated outlet on each end of the garage run with 8 gauge wire and a 40 amp circuit breaker.
As far as I know they are both rated the same way at 90 psi because they are both manufactured by the same company.
As far as the quality goes the larger compressor has 3 pistons, the bigger tank, and a larger motor. Both have cast iron cylinders so the best I can tell the quality is about the same.
The compressors are not two stage. Both are single stage. The smaller compressor has 125 psi max the larger one has 155 psi max.
I plan to use the compressors for body and paint work. A lot of grinding, sanding, and spraying primer, paint, and clear coats.
what are you going to be using it for?
I have a 6.5 hp on a 60gal DeVilbiss 2 cylinder, single stage (125 psi)
its rated at 9.4 scfm @ 90 psi and 11.9 scfm @ 40 psi
if you are using good quality air tools, it seems to keep up OK
cheap tools use a lot more air volume
are they all 2 stage compressors, ? next up.. you'll build 2x the heat..
and your power company will love you.. the money you'll save on the unit, you'll give to the power company.. that over time will be allot.
I'd save for a quality 80 gallon compression..
heat= water in the air.. thats bad for your tools, and very very bad for paint..
Whether you have a 60 or 80 gallon TANK - that is still just the tank size - it has NOTHING to do with the compressor capacity!
What you are talking about here is the two times 10 versus 1 times 15 compressors themselves!
So my question back to you would be: Do you have the power available to run 2 motors for the two 10 cfm units?
Second: Are we comparing apples to apples? Are the 2 10 cfm units and the one 15 cfm unit all rated the same way?
And most important - Are they equal in quality?
If all is comparable then what you are asking is "which is better - 20 cfm or 15?"
Tank size is a game played by the manufacturers.
2 small compressors or one large one best?
I can buy two 60 gallon 10cfm at 90 psi compressors for about the same price as one 80 gallon 15 cfm at 90 psi. I could connect the two compressors in tandem to the same line.
Does anyone know how to figure out if the two 60 gallon compressors or the one 80 gallon compressor would be the best?
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|Topic Review (Newest First)
I'm not sure why you are tryi.g so hard to build an engine that will deliver less than stock power.
If you build this engine its going to be extreemely mild, so much so the thrill of owning a muscle car won't be there. Get over only getting 15mpg's get a healthier cam, run flat top pistons and enjoy the damn thing. Yea you'll lose a mpg, but you'll enjoy it a hell. A lot more! A mild solid cam like I recomended with flat top pistons and camel humps will run fine on 87 octane as long as its tuned right. Throw in a 700r4 and torque converter from an s10 4.3L. The whole project will be a lot cheaper a lot more fun, and will actually sound and drive like a camaro.
Those tiny cams you're looking at are the last thing id put in a car that was meant to be fun. Maybe a work truck but not that camaro.
You're looking to spend a lot of money and your build will net you almost no power gain due to that tiny cam.
The worst part is that it'll sound like a stock half ton truck. Yea, that's real impressive.
I'm thinking if I decked the block 0.020 down to 9.005, with the same other parameters listed above and used a Gasket compressed to 0.038 that would given me a 0.002 piston to deck height and CR 8.933 or 9.404 depending on the two piston choices above.
Or how about keep the stock deck height of 9.025, find a gasket that compresses to 0.020 and a quench of 0.042 and a CR of 8.795 or 9.381 ?
As my usual disclaimer, I'm just playing with numbers, but eventually they will turn into something real.
Until I know exactly what measurements I have to deal with, I am practicing shopping for pistons based on the following assumptions:
Bore 4.00-4.030
Deck height 9.025 stock
Rod length 5.7 stock
Head combustion chamber volume 64cc
1.678 compression distance (this was all they had in the dished or valve relieved pistons at Summit)
0.018 gasket (based on achieving a 0.040 quench, not ideal but all they had)
I found the following Keith Black pistons on Summit's site:
With a 4.030 bore, and +13.00cc piston head volume
I get a 8.946 CR
With a 4.000 bore, and +7.00cc piston head volume
I get a 9.426 CR
Looks like there aren't that many choices out there. Back to my latest question. What Compression Ratios am I looking for? Is the 8.946 my best choice if I stay with the camelhumps or will the 9.426 work fine with the vortec heads?
What other sites can I choose pistons from?
As stated, quench is very very very important. Don't buy pistons until you calculate your compression distance.
Then you go to whatever place you want to buy your pistons and you'll see 327 pistons with different compression distances. Here you see them listed below left.
The key is to take a really really really accurate measurement from the crank journal to the top of the deck. Then you can compare piston heights from the catalog, and select a piston that is very close to zero deck height. Then you can select the latest and greatest sealing .039 thick (compressed) head gasket, which will give you perfect quench. You can also select a piston that is a little down in the hole (cylinder) and have your block decked to get zero deck height.
To throw fuel on the camshaft fire, you might want to try a solid lifter Comp Cams 12-674-4 xs256 if you don't mind adjusting valves. It's the smallest solid lifter they make. Once everthing breaks in and work hardens, you can get by adjusting them once a year This cam is only if you're going to use headers. Double check your heads will handle .477 valve lift, which they should. Solid lifter cams (in the same grind category of a hydrualic lifter) have a more aggressive ramp so you'll gain power across the board and rev out a little further. I believe the other cam you selected, however, is an excellent choice.
Last but not least, fuel mileage. I honestly doubt you can get better than 17-18 mpg regardless of cam or tranny selection. From six figure miles of experience, I can tell you that a perfectly carbureted and tuned '65 Impla SS w/stock 327, 3.31 gears, and a 1969 Delta 88 two door with 2.78 gears both get 16mpg on the highway, plus or minus a hair. So did all my buddy's parent's full-size, small block v-8 cars from the latter 60s. (Without running the AC.) There is just too much wind resistance. A camaro is a little lighter, but that front end doesn't look too aerodynamic to me. Today's cars are amazingly clean.
You now know everything I think I know. Use this info at your own risk.
Looks like those Ebay pistons may not be the ones I want, even though the CR would be 9.19 with a .041 HG, the quench would be excessive at .066 (or .025 + .041). If I were to correct the quench by going with a thinner HG, then the CR would go up to 9.7. Is 9.7 too high?
Should I be looking for the same height pistons, but with a 11cc dish which would result in about a 9.139 compression ratio?
I'm starting to lean heavily on the idea of going with the Vortec heads from the get go, and I believe they also have the same 64cc combustion chambers, so I guess my question now, is what CR should I be aiming for? Is it the same for the camelhumps as with the Vortecs, or will the Vortecs hande a higher CR without detonation on regular gas?
Why would piston manufacturers market these particular pistons, How would I find the ones I really need?
I'm hoping the machine shop engine builder guy can advise me when he checks out my block and crank.
Different calculators and also different listings in catalogs, etc. will use negative numbers to represent both domes AND dishes, so you need to pay close attention to know how they're listing the volumes.
As for the estimated CR that you are seeing on that ebay listing, they're assuming the piston is 0.025" in the hole and a 0.041" HG is being used, w/a FT piston w/a 5cc dish, which is what they're saying w/the "+5cc"- in other words, the pistons add 5cc to the total volume. The calculator I linked to uses "-5" to represent a 5cc dish or valve relief volume.
If the quench was where it should be (~0.040"), the CR will be ~9.7:1.
Also any information on what it takes to connect up the linkage and electrical controls, I assume I would want to keep it very simple and avoid any computers such as the 700-R4 was commonly controlled by.
I'm planning to take the block and crank to the machine shop this Wednesday.
At this point I'm assuming a bore of 4.030, but should know for sure after the shop measures the existing out for me.
As for measuring all the volumes and heights:
I can probably measure the cc's in the heads myself.
How can I figure deck height or the distance from the top of the pistons to the deck, if I don't have any pistons yet to measure from? Since it is still a standard bore, could I assume at this point it has probably not been deck surfaced? Without measuring anything yet and assuming a 64cc head chamber, would these pistons be close to what I'm looking for? Here's an ebay link to some I've been watching:
Do they list enough specs on the Ebay ad to help me calculate the final static compression ratio, such as the compression distance of 1.675 and the dome volume of 5 which I think would actually be -5 as the dome would be considered negative, which in this case I think would include the flat top minus the valve reliefs. I'm guessing they must be assuming a standard gasket thickness when they estimate the compression ratios based on the head compression volumes.
If in the future (or now) if I decide to put on a set of Vortec heads, it looks to me like the Vortec chamber volumes are about the same as my 462 camelhumps, or maybe a little smaller as 62cc. I'm guessing the CR will be still be ok if I change out the heads later.
Keep theose comments coming. I'm getting a lot closer to knowing exactly what I want to do.
A few thoughts...
The target CR you have in mind is ideal for that cam. That said, to figure out what you need for pistons, you need to know a few things:
Bore- is it 0.030" over or will it stay standard?
What's the combustion chamber volume? This has to be measured to know whether the heads have been milled in the past, or if you have to mill them before using them.
Piston deck clearance- this is how far down the hole the piston is at TDC. It can vary due to the block having been milled in the past, and due to manufacturing tolerances.
Piston compression height (CH)- this is 1.675" for a stock piston and most "better" pistons. But there are pistons that are shorter from the pin to the piston deck; these are called "rebuilder" pistons and are made (usually) 0.020" shorter to account for the deck being milled to true them and to promote a good head gasket (HG) seal.
Quench distance- you want to be as close to 0.040" as you can. This promotes good combustion and lessens the need for octane. Some call a good quench figure "mechanical octane". You can get the 0.040" in several ways by juggling the HG thickness, piston CH and block deck height. That's one reason you have to start out knowing what you have in order to know what you need.
A stock block will be very close to 0.025" piston down the hole w/an unmilled block and a stock compression height piston. Combine that w/the stock steel shim HG (about 0.015" thick) and there you have your 0.040" quench distance. To use a steel shim HG requires the decks be freshly machined to help the HG to seal, and THAT is where the rebuilder type shorter pistons come into play. Starting to make sense?
So once these are all known and everything has been considered, the piston dish or dome volume can be determined. You may need a slight dish in this application. If this is the case once everything has been measured and considered, using an "inverted dome" type dish is the preferred type of piston. These are also called D-shaped dish pistons.
What you want to avoid doing is adding HG thickness to lower the CR. A thick gasket will give a wide quench distance, and that in turn increases the need for octane- so until the gasket gets WAY thick, there may be little help from a thicker HG (and an increases quench distance) when the need for octane is considered. For example, using a 0.041" compressed thickness HG on a stock, unmilled block and rebuilder pistons puts the quench distance at an unacceptable 0.086".
Another option is to use a flat top (FT) piston and a cam w/a little more duration @ 0.050" lift (like in the range of 212-216 degrees or so, depending on the exact static CR) in order to get an acceptable DCR, using readily available FT pistons instead of finding (and paying for) the right size inverted dome pistons. The chambers can also w be reworked to give more volume to lower the CR. Just remember that the more radical the cam is, the more torque converter stall you need and the less bottom end power you will have- which means a lower rear gear ratio or an OD tranny w/a short first gear ratio will be needed. It's all a balancing act.
Didn't mean to write a book, but this this is just the tip of the iceberg. Most of the info is derived from an outline that's being drawn up for a page in the Crankshft Coalition wiki.
Good luck.
I like the combination you listed in your last post.
That should give you a strong, mild running engine.
The only input I have is: I would reccommend going to a TH 200-4R overdrive transmission. You can even use the driveshaft without any modification. Simply move the crossmember back a few inches, and connect the lock-up torque converter through the brake light switch to take power away when the hit the brakes. Go to a 3.70:1 rear gear and you'll have snappy performance and cruise at highway speeds aith an engine RPM around 2000.
|Also, if you want a camaro that drives like a camaro you need a bigger cam. I would at least consider a mild solid cam, like the 401a2 cam. Run with 1.6 rockers and face oiling lifters. The 401a3 would be a good option too if you want more rumble at a slight loss of off idle power.
|What fuel are you wanting to run? 87? If you insist on keeping those heads at least get them ported when you get them rebuilt.
After much agonizing with different options, I've just about made up my mind on what I would like to do.
Pretty much my original proposal in my firrst post in this thread.
Going back to my original questions, what I'm really looking for is input on the details of my plan and what small items you would tweak.
327 block
327 crank
9.15 compression pistons
462 camel hump heads
GM dual plane intake
Edlebrock 1406 600cfm carb.
Compcam 12-205-2 camshaft
HEI distributor
One possible change I may consider if I find a good deal is to upgrade to some vortec heads and newer intake.
I don't want anymore input on why this is a generally bad plan or will be too expensive. This is what I want to do. If I wanted to be sensible with my money, I would have bought a Toyota Corolla and not a 67 Camaro. What I'm asking is help to fine tune or tweak this plan. Advice on:
Compression ratio
Camshaft choice
Thank you guys for all your input so far.
|I might be temped to try the trans 1st with the 283. It's not ideal but a good start. I don't know if you'll be able to use OD much.
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text: In the Educational Studies major, students are prepared for productive careers and future study in a field committed to serving the larger community. Students in the Educational Studies major have a wide range of career and advanced education options in non-profit, corporate, as well as educational settings. An exciting element of the Educational Studies major is the opportunity it provides students to combine strong content background through required coursework and a core concentration with flexibility in participation in community service and internships, research, and intercultural exploration through education and other electives. For example, a student may choose the Foreign Language and Culture Concentration which affords him or her immersion in global and multicultural perspectives. The student may also choose among electives in educational research, content, pedagogy, and service that draw from a range of interdisciplinary areas. Students are not prepared for a teaching certificate in this major.


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In a work session Monday evening, the Bemidji City Council approved a plan to redevelop and improve Library and Paul Bunyan Parks on the downtown waterfront. The proposal is a scaled-down version of a plan that has been in the works since 2001 and will use money from the city's half-cent sales tax and the state's Legacy grants to make improvements, including closing off the 3rd Street access to the park and upgrading the platform for the new Chief Bemidji statue. The plan passed on a unanimous vote with Councilmember Reed Olson absent.
The council declined last night to move forward on a bonding bill referendum to secure funding for the new park and swimming beach in Nymore.


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Owing to an unfortunate wager made by Sir Philip, the poor relations are once again scrounging around for a plan for solvency. This time it is Colonel Sandhurst to the rescue. After happening on Sir Randolph's lovely daughter Frederica, who is running away to escape an awful marriage to Lord Bewley, the Colonel devises a plan to force Sir Randolph to settle his bill for six month's stay and to save Frederica from her fate. The clever plan is thwarted when Lord Bewley shows up at the drop point instead of Sir Randolph. The poor relations must make a deal with Lord Bewley in order to get their money and stay out of jail, an arrangement that turns cases of mistaken identity into cases of romance.
The loveable characters from the Poor Relation Hotel return in this sparkling and adventurous Regency from Marion Chesney.
©1994 Marion Chesney (P)2012 AudioGO
"The best thus far"
Oh, I have grown to love these characters and this series. The next book looks very promising and I can't wait to get to it......woohoo!
Say something about yourself!
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The fun continues and I love it. Ms. Tonks gave Sir Phillip is comeuppance as the laughs continue.
"Delightful fluff"
I thoroughly enjoyed the series. The stories are fun and the reader is exceptional. Lots of little plot twists and turns, turns of phrase, interesting characters and improbable romances. Just fun, mine candy.
"Loving this series"
I have now read the fifth book out of the 6-part series and am looking forward to the 6th with mixed emotions. On one hand I look forward to finding out how Ms Beaton ends the series, however sad that now this run is over.
I recommend these books to someone who enjoys light regency romantic stories, with a sense of humour. These are well-written with interesting historic details and a flavour of what it might be like to have lived in those times.
The narrator is out-standing.
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