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|When you build application environments in WebSphere CloudBurst, there are three main elements that comprise those environments: virtual images, patterns, and script packages. It is likely that at some point you will want to export your environments from a particular WebSphere CloudBurst Appliance. This may be in order to apply version control techniques, share resources among multiple appliances, backup business-critical files, or any number of other reasons. Whatever the reason, WebSphere CloudBurst provides the necessary facilities to support both image and pattern export. WebSphere CloudBurst provides export capability for virtual images that you can access via the web console and CLI. In addition, when you download the CLI from the appliance, you get a sample script called patternToPython.jy that you can use to facilitate pattern export.
|The patternToPython.jy sample produces a script that you can use to recreate the targeted pattern on an appliance of your choosing. However, before running the script to recreate the pattern on an appliance, you must ensure that any images and script packages referenced by the pattern exist on the target appliance. Since WebSphere CloudBurst enables you to easily export and import virtual images, all you have to do is account for script packages when attempting to export complete application environments from WebSphere CloudBurst. While the appliance does not directly provide the means to export script packages like it does for images and patterns, the WebSphere CloudBurst Samples Gallery includes a sample that does. You can find this sample in the CLI scripts section of the samples gallery, with the title Export a script package in a portable format.
|After downloading the sample CLI script, you simply unzip the archive and use the embedded Jython script from the WebSphere CloudBurst CLI with the following command:
WCA_CLI_HOME/bin/cloudburst -h WCA_HOST -u WCA_USER -p WCA_PASSWORD -f exportScriptPackage.jy <SCRIPT_PACKAGE_NAME>
This command will create a ZIP file containing the contents of the script package specified by SCRIPT_PACKAGE_NAME. In addition to simply copying the contents of the specified script package into the new ZIP file, the command will trigger the creation of a cbscript.json file based on the definition of the target script package. This
|The result of using this sample is a self-contained ZIP file that you can load into any other WebSphere CloudBurst Appliance. Since the ZIP file includes the cbscript.json file, when you load it into another appliance you do not have to define any of the properties for the script package. This eliminates the potential for definition errors as you move script packages from one appliance to the other and makes it simple to export/import script packages among appliances.
|There are a couple of things about the sample worth mentioning. First, if a cbscript.json file exists in the specified script package, the export script will not create a new one. Instead, the sample simply copies the existing one into the new ZIP file. Second, the target script package's contents must be a ZIP file. That is to say, the file associated with the script package in WebSphere CloudBurst must be a ZIP. If you are using anything prior to WebSphere CloudBurst 2.0, this is not an issue since you can only associate ZIP files with script packages. However, WebSphere CloudBurst 2.0 allows you to associate any type of file (ZIP, shell script, python script, etc.) with a script package.
|If you are looking to effectively export all of the components of your WebSphere CloudBurst patterns, check out this sample script. I think it will make the process a bit easier for you. As always, comments and feedback are welcome.
|-- Dustin Amrhein
A view from the clouds: Cloud computing for developers
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Hi Guys,
Does anyone have a diagram or decent pictures of exactly how to attach the cape? I'm sure there is a definitive answer on the exact positioning of the cape to collar attachment, but I can't find it.
Just don't want to go putting a hole in the wrong place!
cheers guys

subset: commoncrawl


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hmm jcplanet ? wonder if this is eu or us or global, anyone knows? tried to find it out but their site is a bit... well empty so far :P
anyway ill give this a shot if only to check if it gives me the silkroad nostalgia/commitment feeling
hmm jcplanet ? wonder if this is eu or us or global, anyone knows? tried to find it out but their site is a bit... well empty so far :P
anyway ill give this a shot if only to check if it gives me the silkroad nostalgia/commitment feeling
First self-made signature:
Is that... 3 skills available at lv 30 !?
I want my Ice Spear >_<" Combat in SR1 was so nice, it was actually fun to kill thousands of mobs. I hope they get rid of the autopotion though...
You resolution is not "normal" for a gamer at all with the exception of smaller laptops and that last comment is just plan wrong.
@Seya I'm almost inclined to ask you to keep your signatures as A) The first time I saw them I was glad that someone other than myself had a background in GFX signatures, I enjoy looking at them, and C) I've already posted ways for people to block you and/or disable signatures. I don't quite understand how someone can like your content than ask you to change something else. If they don't like your signatures let them ignore your threads and block your posts.
Last edited by Phanein; 02-22-2014 at 05:27 AM.
# ᴛ ʜ ᴇ ʏ ᴄ ᴀ ʟ ʟ ᴍ ᴇ ᴛ ʜ ᴇ s ᴏ ʀ ᴄ ᴇ ʀ ᴇ ʀ s ᴜ ᴘ ʀ ᴇ ᴍ ᴇ ʙ ᴇ ᴄ ᴀ ᴜ s ᴇ ɪ ' ᴍ s ᴏ s ᴛ ʀ ᴀ ɴ ɢ ᴇ.
This game looks like silkroad 1.5 lol honestly the UI looks horrible and pretty much everything about it looks ugly, is this made by the same developers of the first one?
Not trying to be a downer but i played silkroad for a long time, plus beta tested it when it came around in the US. I was expecting more for the 2nd installment lol
R.I.P Tupac Amaru Shakur
"I'm not saying I'm gonna change the world, but I guarantee that I will spark the brain that will change the world."
Tupac Shakur
Eh now was that so hard to do And btw .. this one I like .. it's awesome.Congrats.Which anime was that ? They look familiar.
i'll try this out, let's hope it won't become a total botfest.
I'll probably give it a shot so long as the pvp system is kind of similar to the first one, i really enjoyed the way they set it up, the game doesn't look that great based on what i've seen but i'll still give it a fair attempt to honor the enjoyment i got out of the first one, now to hope that something plays similar to a blader.
2 days! Ima try it out for nostalgia's sake!
i REALLY liked Silkroad Online 1.
I cant see how this new one can better unless the map is at least as large.
Also the reason I left SRO was because of the huge boring grind and clunky combat.
So... asssuming this new Silkroad Online is by the same people, it has to be overcome those hurdles to interest me.
SRO to me is still the best artwork mmo i have ever seen (mainly because it was the very fairst of that art style).
Be warned - I am a major player of Regnum Online the mmo. I've been playing it for about 2 years and rarely go without logging in at least once a day. You can also look at good alternatives to Regnum such ase Aion online and Aika Online.
You should totally keep them just for the pure fact that some ppl are going nuts over them :P
...Maybe I should make a few more characters and spin them around like this Turntable... and watch ppl gone mad over them :P You know... like, 4-5 characters spinning IN OPPOSITE directions at DIFFERENT speed !
They completely ripped of Diablo 3's Bottom UI ..
Hello everyone.
This is JC Planet.
We would like to announce about PUBLIC Beta Test.
1. CBT Period : 02 / 26 / 2014 ~ 03 / 11 / 2014 (changeable)
2. Open Time : 00:00:00 Standard Time
3. How to attend CBT :
This is Public test, so you don't need any beta key.
Just register in JC Planet.com > Email verification > Agree game use agreement > download full client > Enjoy LOS.
4. Importance
All test data will be reset after beta test is over.
There may be frequent maintenance time during CBT.
We are looking forward to meeting lots of global users.
"Legend of Silkroad is free to download and play!
We will provide great amusement with various fun updates continuously. "
Thank you.
Maybe il revert back if more people do it :P . But i kinda like my current signature , im currently addicted to making them .
Loving the game so far for what I've seen, can't wait to give it a try.
troll me hard jcplanet, their signup doesnt allow "-" in the email input field, well have a guess what my mail has
First self-made signature:
Seya, for the love of which is ONRPG, will you pretty please post screenshots of the games ? Like, UI, combat, skill trees, and such. Along with your opinions toward the game
Yea sure ... in 16 min when the dl is done :P . Until then i'm playing Diablo 3 on the us server since they already got the 2.0 update and EU got delayed by 4 hours -.- .
so what do you guys think about the game? I'm manually patching now, gonna try it out
I absolutely loved Silkroad I, but lets see how its sequel is. Nice to see that's it's open to all so that I can test it out myself. :P
meh, tried it out, I hate the UI and I've never seen a game translated this bad. Also, it doesn't feel like Silkroad Online at all


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CHAPEL HILL, N.C. - North Carolina's 17 football seniors will participate in a program at the Disney Institute in Orlando, Fla., Nov. 30-Dec. 2. Disney Institute is the global professional training and development program that offers more than 80 years of best practices from The Walt Disney Company.
Uniquely tailored to North Carolina's football seniors, this Disney program will focuses on the behaviors and values of Disney's approach to leadership excellence.
"I'm excited about the opportunity to experience the Disney Institute," says All-America offensive lineman Jonathan Cooper. "This was a great idea by Coach Fedora and the UNC administration. We'll have the opportunity to further our education and hear from some of the nation's top business consultants. Plus, it gives us one more chance to be together with our senior teammates."
Disney Institute consultants will present a program based on five key business practices:
1. Leadership
2. Selection, Training & Engaging Employees
3. Customer Experience
4. Brand Loyalty
5. Creativity & Innovation
Several athletic organizations and professional teams have worked with the Disney Institute, including the University of Tennessee, the NBA's Orlando Magic, the NFL's Arizona Cardinals and the 2010 FIFA World Cup.
"The senior members of our football team showed tremendous leadership and commitment to the University throughout the 2012 season," said UNC Athletics Director Bubba Cunningham. "We are thrilled to provide them with this opportunity to enhance their educational experience, learn leadership lessons from the Disney Institute, and to inspire them to implement the Disney principles in their daily lives."
"I'm pleased the administration was able to provide this unique opportunity for the seniors," said head coach Larry Fedora. "We recognize and appreciate the sacrifices and commitment these players made to the football program and this University. The Disney Institute will be a valuable educational experience they will remember for a lifetime."
The Walt Disney Company has been named the No. 1 organization for Quality Service, and the World's Most Admired Entertainment Company by Fortune Magazine. More than half of the Fortune 100 companies have engaged their services.
About Disney
Our History
For more than eight decades, The Walt Disney Company and its affiliated companies have remained faithful to their commitment to produce unparalleled experiences based on the rich legacy of innovative content and exceptional storytelling. From humble beginnings as a cartoon studio to today's global enterprise, The Walt Disney Company is a diversified leader in media networks, parks and resorts, studio entertainment and consumer products.
Of course, none of this would have been possible had Walt Disney not also re-written the rules of business.
With the support of his brother Roy, Walt created an effective organizational culture founded in values-based leadership, where employees are recognized for their achievements, encouraged to work as a team and think creatively and, in their consistent pursuit of excellence, continually break the confines of the status quo to surpass the expectations of the world.
Your Opportunity
Since the founding of Disney Institute in 1986, millions of professionals from around the world across the private, public and social sectors have had an opportunity to experience the time-tested best practices, sound methodologies and real life business lessons that have sustained the global success of Disney.
As the provider of uniquely Disney transformational learning experiences for more than 25 years, we inspire business professionals to think and act differently. The result? Outcomes that clearly illustrate ways you can adapt and apply these concepts into your organization. You will find your organization has more in common with Disney than you ever imagined.
Our Approach
As one of the most recognized names in professional development, the Disney Institute approach supports an organization's transformative journey through discovery, execution and sustainment. These solutions enable organizations to draw from the core competencies of The Walt Disney Company as a catalyst for change and build a collaborative roadmap for success, unique to the organization.
Disney Institute also remains the only professional development company where your team can literally step into a "living laboratory" as part of your journey. Utilizing our theme parks and resorts at Disney Destinations around the globe, these field experiences can take you behind-the-scenes enabling your organization to see firsthand how business theory drives operational excellence.


text: Peter first learned about RWU from his theatre teacher in high school, who also happened to be an alumnus. Peter applied to several BFA programs, but ultimately chose Roger Williams because he could see himself performing on our stage. And act he did—beginning in his freshman year! Since then, Peter has taken on a second major in Music, has traveled to London to immerse himself in British theatre and has been involved with the stage company, instrumental ensemble and every show he had time for. Peter is making cultural connections through his art.


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|Loaded Firearm (AUS)
- A replica/novelty grenade was discovered in carry-on bag at Mobile (MOB), and an inert smoke grenade was found in a carry-on at Fayetteville (FAY). An inert/replica grenade was discovered in checked baggage at Syracuse (SYR).
|Knife in Toothpaste Tube (SJC)
- A knife concealed in a tube of toothpaste was discovered in San Jose (SJC).
- Thirteen credit card knives were discovered this week. Three were discovered at Charleston (CHS), three more at Kansas City (MCI), and the remainder were discovered at Appleton (ATW), Branson (BBG), Cincinnati (CVG), Milwaukee (MKE), Mobile (MOB), Shreveport (SHV), and Sonoma (STS). Check out this blog post for more information on credit card knives.
|Improperly Checked Firearm (EWR)
|Throwing Stars (DAL), Knife (JFK)
|Ammunition (IAD)


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Browsing Master's Theses and Papers by Subject "Quadratic Assignment Procedure"
Now showing items 1-1 of 1
[2012-02-01] Service implementation network engagement: An Indicator of policy advocacy? Service implementation network engagement and its effects on the likelihood that organizations will engage in collaborative policy advocacy is studied. The research was based on a centrally governed mental health service ...


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In the current world of fear of terrorism, many police see terrorists where none exist. A group of 200 students representing the Federation of Indian Students of Australia, a most obvious terrorist group, came out to protest against a recent series of attacks on students by Australian racists. Ordinarily, authorities might be sympathetic to efforts by a group of students to address issues, but this is modern Australia and the sight of 200 college students undoubtedly frightened police in Victoria. Yogesh Malhotram claims about 200 police surrounded the students and came charging in to the crowd of peacefully assembled students. He said police punched and dragged students who were, for the most part, sitting down.
However, Victoria Police Chief Commissioner Simon Overland, defended actions of his police. "If someone inadvertently got hit in the mouth, I regret that, but that came about from actions of the demonstrators after they had been given every opportunity to leave the area." If your mouth got in the way of a police punch, it is all your fault.
They are a bunch of kids upset about being beaten by racist thugs. Surely, some government official could have talked with them.


text: Been out a few times and seen a few, killed one woodie and one canadian goose so far. Hunting Chickamauga creek and the Vandergrif tract swamp off lower mill road. Does anyone know where Thrasher Bottoms are? A guy at work said he saw alot of geese in a field there but wasn't sure if it was private.


text:
Beaumont/Port Arthur
After spending more than an hour behind closed doors discussing the contract between Walker's Electric and the Beaumont Independent School District, trustees voted to allow the school attorney, Melody Chappell, review invoices and other documents - tabling the issue of whether or not to suspend the relationship between the company and BISD.
While we harbor no disrespect for the Wall Street Journal who called us "that scrappy little paper from Southeast Texas," we prefer to think of ourselves as simple seekers of the truth. We're of the opinion that headlines and sound bites never tell the whole story. Our readers demand all the facts, facets and flavors of every story or event. And, they expect to be informed, educated and stirred to action.
For this week's New York Times crossword puzzle, pick up a copy of this week's The Examiner on newsstands now.


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Thursday, August 20, 2009
Boomer Market Advisor Features Charity Navigator Giving Tips
The August issue of Boomer Market Advisor includes an article on charitable giving tips for financial planners helping donors prepare their future gifts. Boomer Market Advisor is a magazine which offers information and studies for financial planners serving baby-boomer generation clients. The tips, which cover everything from the tax benefits of donating to choosing an organization, were written in collaboration with Charity Navigator. You can read the full article here. For more information, you can review our expanded article on maximizing your philanthropic impact here, and top tax benefits of giving here.
2 comments:
- Eckert said...
I will have to check out Charity Navigator. It seems like a really good resource to know.
If you would like to post your own acts of kindness or goodwill you can do it at http://www.foyble.com
- August 28, 2009 at 8:52 AM
- Option tips said...
Great information! I've been looking for something like this for a while now. Thanks!…
options trading
- March 25, 2011 at 5:20 AM
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Members visit free all year! Join or renew today.
Avoid the line!Print your ticketsat home.
Your donation makes a World of Difference.
Romeo: Unknown sex and hatch date. Acquired by the Zoo on November 1, 2011.
Pluto: Unknown sex and hatch date. Acquired by the Zoo on November 1, 2011.
Come feed us at Lorikeet Encounter!
Lorikeet Encounter
The distinctive black cap that covers the forehead, crown and nape gives this lory its name. The rest of the head and neck as well as the upper breast is red. The lower abdomen a dark blue and the wings green above.
Unlike many species of lories and lorikeets that live in larger flocks, the black-capped lory is more often found in pairs or family groups although they do congregate to feed. While in flight, they give a loud musical call that is often repeated. A variety of loud whistles can also be given when perched.
Form monogamous pairs that nest in tree cavities. A typical clutch has 2 eggs which take 25 to 27 days to hatch. The young remain in the nest an average of 70 days with both parents caring for the chicks.
Approximately 12 inches (30.48 cm) in length
8 to 10 ounces (226.8 - 283.5 g)
In the wild, the black-capped lory feeds mainly on pollen, nectar and fruit. At the Zoo, the birds are offered a variety of foods through-out the day. Their favorite fruit is apples and they also love apple sauce. Nectar is provided in both a liquid and dry form and the birds enjoy both. The majority of their nutrients come from the parrot pellets offered as the base of the diet.
Lowland forests and freshwater swamps of New Guinea and offshore islands


text:
|Topic Review (Newest First)
|My Sears push mower used to start the first time every time. With today's gasoline I have to give it 3-4 pulls to get her going. Now I use a Harbor Freight hand pump to snag some gas out of my daily driver for the mower, the mower is back to starting the first time every time.
As for the current John Deere SnowBlower, they are being produced by Briggs and Stratton (which also produces the Deere Generators, Pumps and Pressure Washers)-this is a conundrum for me, as how does a manufacturer of engines compete directly against it's Customers? Anyway, back to your regularly scheduled discussion-
You would probably be better off using a torque drive (Northern has them) instead of a centrifugal clutch if you are going to use an engine that big. The clutch would work ok by itself but the torque drive would be much better IMO even with being a bit more complicated. If you decide to use the clutch simply select the one with a bore size to fit the crankshaft diameter of the engine you use then use an axle sprocket and chain of the same tooth pitch, the size of the sprocket will depend on wheel diameter and to a lesser extent the weight of the Kart.
Keep in touch and let us know how it is working out and I am sure someone here will be able to help with any problems you may encounter.
MTD makes most everything lawn care in the 'cheaper' sector...
Airens is the only snowblower I know of that is not MTD built and they use B&S engines.. I think Airens builds the JD snow throwers.. Snow Tek is Airens budget line, and uses Lifan engines but there otherwise the same..
The budget line Cub Cadet push mower is a MTD painted yellow with $100 more on the sticker price for an electric start.. I bought 1 of the MTD's a couple years ago. found it very hard to start, but did run ok, just didn't work all that well.. took it back to TSC a day or so later, and bought a Briggs NOS 3.5 hp to repower my '72 Squire Applegate pusher. only 20" cutting path, but it has a 2 peice snail deck and a very tight clearence for the blade. that allows it to cut very neatly and shoots/ spreads the clippings about 10'
As for all my outdoor power equipment that I keep in service.. it is all 30+ years old..
1971 Gilson Gil-490A ( Montgomery Ward branded snowblower 8hp/26")
1972 Gilson Gil-479C ( Montgomery Ward Branded snowblower 8hp/26" electric start )
1968 Sears Suburban 12 garden tractor- 42" mowing deck and all paperwork
1972 Squire Applegate push mower ( repowered with NOS 1980's 3.5hp briggs )
broken down equipment:
1971 Gilson Gil-490A- needs magneto put on, just havn't gotten to it
1998 ish MTD/ Murry Ultra push mower w/ bagger- runs but not good
1998 Craftsman 16hp/42" cut riding lawn mower- worn out steering, exhaust rusted off, currently does not run- I quit fighting with it
Yours has a CHOKE? Maybe you should have gotten one with the CHOCK instead!
mtd stuff
hey irelands child-jessebelle here- i know mtd has been around a while, they must've given some serious money to troy built to buy them out. but if you pay your foreign help 22 cents per hour, quite a profit. we have 6" of fresh snow right now, i looked this thing over quite well, all seems to be in place correctly, it still is very inept at doing it's intended task, and i don't want to be the one using it when it fails, been there, done that. so i'm doing the driveway area for them. i have a 25.50 hp kubota 4wd diesel tractor, hst trans. my 2nd one, the other being an 18 hp. without a doubt the finest machine i have owned. my last one had 1000 hrs. on it when i traded it for the bx2660, no oil leaks-no failures of any kind-no oil consumption. but i take very good care of my equiptment, oil changes at 50 hours, etc. it spins a 4' roto tiller through an acre of garden like nothing, i mow 1.50 acres weekly, move snow as required with loader or back blade, it seems the list is unending, except the fuel usage is minimal as well. the frame and undercarriage are thick, the loader is very quick, strong. probably the 1st thing i've owned that i have no complaints about, and very easy on the operator. gotta go move more snow. later
|Irelands child
|So far the only thing wrong with my 6Hp HF engine is that I have to keep the choke about half on for it to run right - someday I might try to find out why, but not yet. It always starts with one or two pulls - and throws snow a lot better then the so called 8Hp(?) POS Tecumseh it replaced that seldom ran without many bad words even with the electric starter
|Since this thread was started I did get around to buying one of those engines and although the thing may be from the same Chinese manufacturer as the Cub lawn mower engine it is a LONG way from the same quality. The little Cub lawn mower I have has been a jewel even with that Chinese engine, starts instantly every time and has many trouble free hours on it now it is in fact the best mower I have ever owned. The HF "Grey Hound" engine is,well not so good. I built a wood splinter last year and those things were again on sale, this time I got there before they sold out but I have mixed feelings about whether that was good fortune or not. First to the engine's credit it starts easily and has not been a problem at all in that respect plus it has more than the 6 1/2 HP IMO and as far as power goes it is a brute so what is not to be happy about? I just can't keep the thing in one piece! It does vibrate quite a bit (yes I do have it mounted properly) and things constantly fall off or worse yet break off. It leaks gas terribly around the gas cap if the tank is over half full, the clip that locks the gas cap down fell off because the spot welds were nothing more than heat stains, the whole carburetor mounting bracket fell off a couple of times before it finally broke and I just made a whole new assembly, various bolts/fasteners, etc are constantly coming loose and the low oil shut off will kill the engine unless the crankcase is overfilled with oil, took me a while to figure that one out! I have to tilt the engine back in order to get enough oil in it to make it run properly and that requires nearly 1/2 again more than it calls for. All in all I have not been impressed too much with it but like I said the darn thing is powerful and keeps on chugging, just keep your tools handy and be ready to reassemble the loose/missing parts every time it is used.
|Irelands child
You will find that most of the snow blowers today are built by MTD or a few by Murray. Even the 15 year old Agway that I have is an MTD (with a Harbor Freight engine). It too has a partial plastic chute and is made out of too light gauge steel IMO. It will throw snow 20-40 feet though, depending on the amount of moisture as long as the auger shear pins are intact and the inner wheel is tight - did you check them? If it's new, it has a Briggs & Stratton engine (or a cheap foreign substitute) as Tecumseh junkers are ...... thankfully, gone.
I really like my diesel powered tractor with the 48" thrower instead of that little 24" when it get really nasty - like today
Dave W
trot built snowblower
they had flooded the engine badly, after i got it going, and used it, i advised them to return it, based on my opinion of it's poor quality. these people are office worker's, no mechanical knowledge. they want to keep it, their decision. i showed them how to properly start it, it now fires on the 1st pull, but it must sit there and run at 1/2 choke for at LEAST 8 to 10 minutes before the choke can be opened fully. of course there are no carb adjustments, etc. i expect many failures with this, no matter where it was purchased.
Lowes has an excellent return policy... one that I sure as heck would be using.
troy built(mtd) scrap/p.o.s.
my neighbor recently bought a troy built(mtd) snowblower, $600.00, plus tax at lowe's. unable to get it running. i finally got it running, just the worst example of engineering that could/should exist. i used it on 3" of fine powdery snow, it managed to throw it 2' maximum. and that was on my smooth concrete driveway. the chute and the lower chute ring are plastic, yep-plastic. the metal is not 11 ga. thick, thinner. i'd give it a life expectancy of forever, provided it does not get used, and just beats you up to use it. i have a troy built roto tiller(made in troy n.y.), it is 24 years old, 5.0 h.p. b&s motor, starts/runs perfectly, must have 10k hours on it by now, much of it is cast iron. i have rebuilt the carb twice on it, ($4.00 in parts). mtd bought out many companys, away we go to china/korea/v.nam/india, etc. having done considerable work on small motors/equiptment, stay away from mtd. pure junk. i'd be willing to buy that snowblower for $100.00, then hopefully sell it for $200.00, but i guess i would'nt want to screw anyone that bad.
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text:
|Topic Review (Newest First)
|Super Streeter
|Here is another one involving the same guy.His street race car was one of my creations,and after he puked his good motor,I helped him out by loaning him a mild 355 that I had as a backup motor for my car just until we got his good mill back in shape.I dropped this 13 second motor in his car and we added a cheater plate to it and took the car to the street races on Friday night.We were there parked next to a few guys who dont really like the crew from my shop,and my friend was really running his mouth a little bit and I would have let him hang himself,but these wiseguys had to chime in that the only car we had that ran was my car and that all the guys from my shop should stop buying my old junk because if it didnt make my car fast it wasnt going to make them fast either,but my car,my current 73 Firebird,was way faster then all thier"street" cars,so they were talking out their a$$es.I told them that the Malibu was running in the 10's but that one of the slicks had a leak and we had the street tires on it tonight so were had nothing for them but that we could lock up something for tommorrow night if they would like.They took the bait on that one and my freind looked at me and said "I hope you are putting up the money".I told him that we were about to drop the 11 second smallblock and it's convertor from my Firebird into his car,and we were going to bolt his nitrous plate to it.By 730 am saturday my motor and covertor were in the back of my pickup truck and on the way to this guys job at a towing company where he stored his car.We had the engine in and running by 4:30 that after noon and by 7pm,we had my new slicks on the car and all the nitrous sorted out.We put 2 test passes on the car at the local spot and then went to wait for the call from these guys.They told us to be at the spot at 10 pm,and we were there by 9:30 waiting for them.We put one more test pass on the car while we waited and one of thier spies saw us and ran back to them to tell them something was up and that the Malibu was not like it was yesterday.Well as luck would have it,a local Police officer who is related to one of the guys from our rival's shop rolls up on us and starts breaking our ball$.Next thing you know he is calling for a tow truck to impound the car and the owner of the car is telling the cop he has to go and answer a call for an impound with the tow truck that we used to tow the car down with.We all knew that my friend was on police rotation for impounds that night and he towed the car down there with the impound truck.The cop got even more pissed off and called for a different tow company.We watched as they hauled our stuff off to a night at the pound.We had the car back the next day,but we had to get to the bottom of our issue with these chicken***** loudmouths.We eventually got a solid confirmation that it was them who ratted us out and had the cop impound our car.Luckily for us the cop never showed up for court so all the charges and tickets were dropped including the Emergency police response team charges and fire depatment fines for the little antic involing our nitrous bottle.It seems that when our rival ratted us out,he made it clear we had an explosive nitrous bottle in the trunk,so the cop called the emergency services unit and fire department who showed up and hosed the trunk of the malibu out with about 1,000 gallons of water and blasted the rear seat right out of the car and flooded the interior.The fire depatment guys kept saying they didnt need to do it but the cop told them they had to do it or that the car might explode,so they followed his orders.Oh well,these guys will all get theirs.We eventually made a pile of cash with that car too.
|Super Streeter
|Al long time ago I ran an 82 camaro on the street with a very mild 400 smallblock{actually a low mileage junkyard shortblock with a top end bolted on it and some nitrous},and it was dressed to look like a stock berlinetta with a 305,and even had a stock 9 bolt rear with 3.27 gears.The car ran 12.80's on motor and 12.0's on a 125 shot.A freind of mine who I raced with had a daily driver 82 camaro with a 2.8 and a stick,and we had both made fistfulls of cash with my car at the street races.One night we ran a $20 race for *****s and giggles,and I spotted him out 150 feet before the finish line,and I was to leave off of his brake lights{I had to run the entire 1/4 to his 150 feet!},I had to run raw horsepower.I opened my hatch and he turned the bottle off and we set up the cars.I turned it loose when he rolled and I ran thru about 20 feet behind him at the finish line.I knew he had ben rolling with his foot on the brake,but I didnt want to make an issue of it,so I ran my car all the way to the end of the strip and opened the hatch and turned the bottle on,while he had already made the first U-turn and was on his way back to the starting line.I went back to the line and told him he rolled on the start and that I would do it again for another $20.He took the bait and we lined back up.I drove around him in the last 50 feet of the race like his engine stalled out.He claimed I rode by so hard that his car seemed to rock over from the wind.I rode all the way to the end again and turned off the bottle and came back to the line.He told me I shot it and he wanted to see the bottle.I opened the hatch and he handed over the 20 bucks.I eventually leveled with him and we both laughed about it.
|well, gee, i don't really know how i can follow mr. chris here, but i always rode shotgun in my h.s. bud's 66 malibu 396 and we had a butt load of great races vs. 440 chargers etc, one of the wierdest was being beat by a little Dart w/a great 273 engine. only time we ever lost. mostly the gathering at the "cattle crossing" on pyramid lake hwy back in the early 70's before the cops kept buggin us after someone got killed sideswiped putting gas into his car. tons of racing, the excitment of breaking the law, etc etc. love it. raced a 56 gmc pick up against a friends 59 impala and he stuck it in "R" during a rolling start. had to laugh my *** off at that one. raced my 327 MG against i think a camaro twice and got holeshots everytime before he murdered me. bla bla bla.
|I'm 19 and have a 84 Monte carlo non SS that has seen more street racing action than any car in a 50mile radius of my town. It runs High High 11's on the motor sucking down pumpgas through the exhaust and now there is another 175hp plate system. I once raced a guy in a 72 Chevelle that he thought was faster than it was, about 60 people came out to watch the race. I boiled the radials in first and second gear and then pulled hard on his maybe 14 second car I was in the suicide lane at 5800rpm in third gear going about 110mph and was far enough ahead that I decided to pull back into the normal right hand lane when I did I heard a loud woooooshing noise and my friend and I looked up and what did we see but my driver's side T-top sailing through the air. The t-top hit the chevelles windshield but only minorly cracked it and then proceeded to glance down the left side of his car ruining the quarter panel. The chevelle guy wasn't mad though because the car was going to his wife the next weekend in a divorce settlement. For the next month this guy went around town saying how I only got him buy a car length, how is this possible? If he was a car length behind me at 110mph the t-top wouldn't have hit his car, News to that guy more like 20 car lengths. He was mad and thought I was bragging so he brought out his other hot rod a 69 camaro with a merlin headed 396. I dusted him again and he swore i had nitrous because my reverse lights came on, the only reason they did was because my old column shift would fall and turn them on. If he only knew how bad I'd beat him now. I'm only 19 but have realized that street racing is bad, very bad and will never do it again, hell I don't even have a cage in my car yet!!!!!!!!!!!
nice story.
........heres mine. Once this ugly ***** ricer came up to me reving his engine. So I ripped him a new one. I have a 66 mustang with a 302, roller cam, aluminum heads, roller rockers, headers, 2400rpm converter, 3.70 gears. Good for about 13 flat.
Street Race Archives
I thought this would be a good place for everyone to tell their favorite street race story. Mine is as follows.
A long, long time ago, in a land far away, when I still had hair, I proudly owned my very own 70 Cuda'. I spent all winter saving my money, working over a 440 , complete with hemi-grind purpleshaft, CH4B Intake, 850 Dbl Pumper, Headers, 3500 Stall, 727 with a Cheetah reverse manual valve body and a set of 4.56s. This car was rough, it was rusty, and had the LOUDEST set of old burnt out glass packs you ever heard, and it would haul *** . A set of hard N-50 15 Remingtons did their best to keep from smoking, but to no avail. Springtime was near, and I was itching to go race. As I drove one weekend, I noticed the ol 440 seemed to be running out of poop, and then BLAM!!!!! My engine had expired! Crap! The single bolt cam bolt had stretched and broken, allowing a valve to kiss a piston, causing the piston to shatter into many, tiny pieces. My fine engine was scrap. My cousin helped me tow it to his house, and there it sat for a month.
It was mid July when we were partying at my cuzz's house when it happened, Javelin Jay, the local AMC freak had his 390 AMX going, and was making fun of my ol Cuda. I really wished my 440 hadn't crapped out, because I knew I could take ol Javelin Jay, he had no hood, a crossram and a four speed, and a fancy paint job. We had to do something. We did.
We bought the neighbors 66 Coronet for 25 bucks, it had a polysphere 318, my cousin and I split the price, 12.50 each. This car was crap, but it did run, and it had good sheetmetal. We drove it to Gore's Junkyard and asked if he had any good bigblock Mopars he would trade the whole car for, he said he would trade it for the 383 in an old station wagon out back. This was no ordinary wagon, this was a 1970 Dodge sport wagon, complete with hood bulges, and a 383 Mag. We pulled the engine in 20 minutes, and hauled her off to the old tree we pulled engines with. We started changing it out at Noon, and had it ready to start at 9:00 PM. My cousin Steven manned the starter, and cranked away, it wouldn't fire, we kept trying, finally the old motor cranked up, and smoked like hell. Steven wound it up so tight, it floated the valves. We were in business.
How did it run? like a striped-assed ape, it wasn't as brutally powerful as the 440, but she was quicker, because it would hook, and the 440 wouldn't.
It was time for a showdown, time to find Javelin Jay. We cruised into Lincoln Center on a Saturday Night, there he was , with a crowd of people around him, everyone admiring the fancy paint his mommy had paid for. We rolled the Cuda past them, and he yelled to take that piece of crap home, that's when I lit them up, and rolled through Lincoln center sideways, with the hides boiling. Rust flew from my crapped out exhaust onto the crowd. Javelin Jay was incensed with anger, and he bragged that he was going to blow my doors off. The race was on!
We rolled out quietly outside of town on Tellman Rd. Jay does a big burn out, and it looks impressive, my Cuda drips oil from the leaky valve covers onto the headers and stinks to high heaven. Jeff, my other cousin, flags the race, Jay revs his motor, he dumps the clutch, and I just mash it to the floor, we jump him 2 cars immediately, and begin to pull away, when I go to shift to second, I miss second gear! The slapstick wasn't meant to be shifted backwards, and it's easy to miss a gear, we go directly into drive, and Jay pulls even, it's a dead heat. We were ahead slightly, but Jay argues about where the end of the quarter was, so we go again, this time, the old 383 twists clean to 6200 RPM, I shift to second, and the tires scream as I'm sucked back into my ratty highback bucket seat, exhaust fills the ****pit, we're flying now--not sure how fast, the gear change screwed up the speedo, it shows 130 or something, and I haven't even shifted to drive, we go into drive, and Old Javelin Jay is a small object in my rear view mirror. Yessssss, dusted by a 25.00 engine. The 383 lasted 2 more weeks before we blew it up, but what fun.
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Laws, Regulations & Annotations
Property Taxes Law Guide – Revision 2011
Revenue and Taxation Code
Property Taxation
Part 2. Assessment
Chapter 3. Assessment Generally
Article 6. Assessment Roll
Section 614
614. Tax-defaulted property. After each assessment of tax-defaulted property the assessor shall enter on the roll the fact that it is tax defaulted and the date of the declaration of default.
History.—Added by Stats. 1939, Ch. 154, effective January 1, 1940. Stats. 1985, Ch. 316, effective January 1, 1986, substituted "tax-defaulted" for "tax-sold" after "assessment of", substituted "is tax defaulted" for "has been sold for taxes" after "it" and substituted "declaration of default" for "sale" after "of the".
Sufficiency of recital—Noncompliance cured by tax deed.—Neither the date of the sale nor the exact words "sold for taxes" are necessary. Any language which notifies the owner of the sale is sufficient. Carter v. Osborne, 150 Cal. 620. In any event, under Section 3518, failure to comply with this section is cured by the tax deed. Bank of Lemoore v. Fulgham, 151 Cal. 234.


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**Update 10/6/12** I made it through the car show season with ZERO issues with these control arms. The car made it to SoWo, Cult Classic, VAG Fair, and h2oi (with trips to First Class Fitment and Toys 4 Tots still coming). They've 100% held and I would recommend them to anyone.
**Update 5/27/12** Last weekend I made the trek down to SoWo from here near Baltimore (~1300 miles round trip), and these control arms performed flawlessly. If I didn't know they were installed on the car I would not have noticed anything out of the ordinary. Will continue to update through out the summer show season, but anyone thinking about these should not hesitate to grab a set.
Since not many people are running these control arms, I thought I would make a thread about my experiences with them to get the word out.
Background: Innovative Design and Fabrication (https://www.facebook.com/innovativefab) makes a tubular control arm with slotted ball joint holes that allow for a small camber adjustment. Their design also eliminates the interference bagged cars encounter between the subframe and the control arms at full drop. In my eyes, they are an alternative to doing the R32/TT spindle and hub swaps. I wanted to eliminate the positive camber that happens when I completely air out, so with that in mind I rang up the guys and IDF and placed an order for a set.
Initial impressions: Build quality is very impressive. They feel very stout, like something you would find on a race car. I opted for a set with sway bar end link mounting locations (for use with my e-level sensors), and sprung for the rubber heim joint sleeves/boots.
Prep/installation: Getting the arms set to the proper length is a breeze as IDF provides you with measurements for each heim. The only thing IDF doesn't tell you is that the arms ship with two different sized heim joint inserts. There is a tall set and a short set and it matters where you put them (the shorter of the two bars on each arm get the taller inserts). Aside from that, the install is extremely straightforward. Working with a friend, it took us less than 45 minutes to complete the swap.
Results/Final Thoughts: After we adjusted the toe-in, the positive camber has been eliminated....but I didn't gain as much negative camber as I had hoped I would. No pictures of the fronts yet, I need to change to slightly smaller spacers to get the front tires off the underside of the fenders. The ride quality/characteristics didn't change much either. I do notice a little more road vibration in the wheel at speed, but I feel like the VF mounts we installed today play a factor in that (and the car still needs a proper alignment). However, the road vibrations I do feel are very minimal.
Overall I am pretty happy with them so far and will update the thread with more pictures and thoughts as I get more miles on them


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Disable your anti-virus maybe
I've been trying to but the darn thing won't turn off no matter what I do.
Thats probably it, I'll try messing with it a bit more later.
Ok, I got it to work, but now a different error keeps popping up:
Last edited by Countdantes; 11-20-2006 at 03:39 PM.


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It's late and I am headed off to bed... This will be a long post for me, I think - haha. I'll post a message w/ my thoughts on the matter tomorrow...
Out of all the gun manufacturers that put out the 1911 model/style... Who's the best/worst and why...?
It's late and I am headed off to bed... This will be a long post for me, I think - haha. I'll post a message w/ my thoughts on the matter tomorrow...
Ok, I said I would get back to this. I'll spread it out over a few messages so it doesn't get too long...
There are several "mainstream" 1911 manufacturers that make guns at a reasonable price - Colt, Springfield, Smith and Wesson, Kimber, Para Ordinance and now Sig.
Springfield - I have had several Springfield 1911s over the years. Great guns. THey have entry level guns, all the way to custom guns. I would LOVE to have their custom Springfield Professional, but that is about $2100-$2300, depending on where ya get it at.
Springfield also has great entry level guns such as their GI models and their Mil Spec models. The Mil Spec is a better deal, as it has a few upgrades that most consider necessary. The Mil Spec is probably the cheapest 1911 I would buy and not have to worry about the thing not working. The only neg I will say is that the current Mil Specs don't have as good of a trigger as the ones made in the 1990s. I have looked at a few recently, and it seemed that many might need a trigger job. Then again, you are looking at 1911s at $450 - $500 or less. If you want an extended thumb saftey, novak sights, skeletonized hammer and trigger, and a guide rod, the Springfield Loaded models are worth the extra $. Buying all of these items seperately and having them installed by a gunsmith will cost you more.
Para Ordinance - I don't have any direct experience w/ this brand, but I have read a lot of complaints about them. I gues sthat can be taken w/ a grain of salt, but I don't think I would ever buy 1 of their guns. The other brands that interest me grab my attention before Para Ordinance does. The only cool thing they have going for them is that they make double stack 1911. So, you can have high capacity in the 1911 form (of course, the gun is thicker), and they also make a Double Action 1911 design. This new design is unique to them, and supposedly the trigger pull is still around 5lbs or so on every shot. If you want a .45 in the 1911 design, and your police department does not allow single action guns, this might be the way to go.
Kimber - They do make great guns, but even their base models cost a bit more than a mid level Springfield. They made quite a name for themselves over the years, but have had a lot of issues lately when they switched to external extractors. Now, for 2006, they FINALLY switched back to internal extractors. I may buy a KImber later this year because of that.
I will say that when you read online reviews, you tend to see the most complaints about Keltecs and Kimbers. Granted, it is true that people tend to complain more than they praise, but Kimber complains do seem more widespread than complainst about other manufacturers. With the external extractors, it seemed that you literally were gambling w/ the chances that you would get a trouble free gun or not. I think the complaints will go down now with the part switch. I have read many complaints about their customer service, though. Apparently they aren't the nicest people on the phone.
I have bought 1 Kimber before - in early 2005. I spent $908 on it + tax. So, almost $1000. It was an aluminum framed model, but I would never buy another aluminum 1911 again. It was a Kimber Tactical II full size 1911 - Since I had a Beretta 92 w/ an aluminum frame and have no problems w/ that, I figured "why not" - Gun looked awesome. Shot well too.
After having it 2 weeks, I dicovered a long thread on a 1911 forum - I saw the dreaded "gouge" - using a magazine w/ a metal follower will damage the inside of the aluminum frame. Over time, it can get pretty excessive. Why would Kimber sell a mag with their own gun that will damage it right before your very eyes as you shoot it?
I then checked my gun out - in that spot inside of the frame, I saw the very beginning of the mark - This was after just 200 rounds. Also, I did not think about the fact that while my Beretta has an aluminum frame, the steel barrel acts as the feed ramp - the 1911 uses the frame as part of the feed ramp. After 400 rounds, I already had some visual wear in the metal where the bullet rubs the frame when it is loaded into the barrel. Also, that gouge inside the frame got a little bigger.
I tried Wilson mags w/ a plastic follower, but the gun would only work with the stock mags and metal follower. I then sold the $908 + tax gun for about $150 less, because that was all I could get for it. I am kinda angry that I spend about $1k on a gun that actually wore before my very eyes. If I had that after 400 rounds, I could imagine how it would be after 2000.
Kimber really should use plastic followers in their aluminum guns, and they should also put a ramped barrel in them.
I personally will never buy another aluminum 1911 again. And, I have been a bit angry at Kimber ever since...
Colt - there are Colt fanatics, and to some, a 1911 isn't a 1911 if it isn't a Colt. I was struck w/ the urge to buy an entry level Colt a few weeks ago, and I checked one out. $636 is what it took to buy an entry level Colt here locally. I looked at the gun, and was very disappointed. The sinish was messed up around the sights, the trigger was horrible, and there were a few other minor issues. I do not think itw as worth the $. Mainly, you are paying a premium for the Colt name, in my opinion. Although, Colt fanatics will deny it.
The 1911 that got me hooked in the early 1990s was a Colt - it belonged to the family of my 1st wife. It was a good gun. I do not believe current Colt quality is the same, and I have read that comment numerous times. For the same amount of $, you get more gun for your money from a Springfield or Kimber. It is true that a Colt will have a better resale value % wise compared to other 1911 manufacturers, but what have you really gained. You paid too much for the gun to begin with. And, guns really are not a wise investment (if that is your only purpose for buying it) unless you are dealing with antiques.
Smith & Wesson - They are new comers into the 1911 market, but I have read almost no complaints about their 1911s. And, if there is an issue, they seem to bend over backwards to fix it. They have good prices too. They have external extractors, but apparently they know what they are doing, unlike the external extractors Kimber tries to use. Until I fell into a deal for my Springfield TRP around Christmas, I had settled on buying a specific model of S&W 1911. I think for a newcomer into this market, either S&W or Springfield is the way to go.
Sig - They tried to get into the 1911 market recently, and it didn't go well. Their GSR model had a lot of problems, and its my understanding that they either bought guns back from many people or replaced them with new guns. Now, they just came back into the 1911 market w/ the Revolution - They have a railed and non-railed model. On paper, this gun looked great, and I thought I wanted one. The gun looks cool, but it doesn't have quite the traditional 1911 look to it. Sig changed a few external features.
I do not care for their grip safety design on the Revolution. It has a strange ridge down the middle of it. I have never seen a design like this before, and it did not seem comfortable for me. Their 1911s are almost $1k ($899-$980), and it seems that you need to look at the model U buy before you get it. I wouldn't recommend ordering 1 on the net. It seems that Sig still has some issues with quality, and many of the guns have hammers that lean to 1 side or the other. This is taken from the various complains and comments I have read about them recently.
I also forgot to mention Dan Wesson - The company was recently purchased by CZ, but they are genreally considered to be a good brand to buy. You get a lot for your money, and they have mid priced models. Many places don't carry this brand, for whatever reason, however. So, they can be hard to find.
There are a few low end 1911 manufacturers - Rock Island Armory, Charles Daily and Armscore to name a few. It is my understanding that these guns are made in the Phillipines all by the same manufacturer. Visially, some of them look like quite a deal for the money - they seem to float around the $300 price range, give or take a few $.
I would avoid these, personally, although some claim that the Charles Daily and RIA guns are an awesome find. I have no direct experience w/ these guns. But, I have read comments stating that many of them are made so out of spec that after market parts won't work. And, if you do have a problem, this out of spec issue makes is so hard for a smith to fix the gun. I am a firm believer in you get what you pay for. There are many owners who are happy with these guns, but I REALLY think you are gambling w/ your money if you buy 1 of these. I wouldn't want 1 if you gave me 1. Others may disagree w/ me, but this is my 2 cents....
Now, there are also some high $ 1911 manufacturers. [b]Les Baers, Wilson, Nighthawk, STI, Ed Brown[/b and Rock River Arms (not to be confused with the above mentioned Rock Island Armory) are just a few names that come to mind. Springfield, Kimber and Smith and Wesson also make some high dollar models that compare to these values. But, many people like to have an "exotic" brand name when they pay this much money - Having a super expensive Springfield doesn't stand out as much as it does when you tell people you have a Wilson or a Nighthawk.
Nighthawk is rumored to have started as an offshoot of Wilson employees. They are a fairly new company, but at the moment, they are my Holy Grail of 1911 manufacturers. But, I don't have the $2,200 or more to buy one of these guns right now. So, for now, My $1200 Springfield TRP will have to suffice (I got it for $1,000 new, but have another $200+ or so in a new finish and grips).
Also, there are different sizes of 1911s... They make 5 inch 1911s (Government models, the standard size), 4" ones, and even 3.5" and 3" barreled 1911s. And, I suppose you could count the long barrel versions - 6 inches or longer. These long barreled models are not seen too often, though.
I personally love the full size models. The design was not originally made to work in these super small sizes, however. So, your chance of problems climbs exponentially as you get into the smaller sizes. So, you take a risk of a problem gun when you get to the small 1911s. I personally love the 1911 as a range gun and also for home defense, so I don't mind the size. A 1911 isn't something I would personally CCW, because I like the lower maintance of a Glock or Walther - a gun I don't have to oil the exterior every day in the summer time in order to prevent rust. That being said, reliability wise, I have no problems counting on the 1911s I have owned. If any gun is not reliable, I get rid of it quick, no matter what brand it is.
Finally, you can buy 1911s in other calibers besides .45. I'd be interested in maybe getting a 9mm one day, in order to save on ammo costs. But, non .45 cal models seem to cost most. I guess they are more of a niche inside the 1911 area, so they feel they can charge more.
I think I'll rent one the next time a go to the range... I believe they have a springfield 1911 there for rental. If I remember correctly, I believe it's pretty beat up.
I need to also give my mother a call tomorrow, when my grandfather died his gun collection was distributed out between his daughters...My mother recieved a colt. She ask me if I wanted it, but I declined. I'm wondering now if it's a 1911. She said it wasn't a revolver when we had talked briefly about it, now it has me interested.
Remember, that a rental gun isn't treated very well - so if it doesn't work well, don't be surprised. A 1911 must be cared for pretty well.
I'll keep that in mind today when I go to the range today. I'll let you know how it shoots.Originally Posted by Shipwreck
Having only bought 4 guns this mo I decided to take a break for a while . Well I couldn't I put a Springfield SS Compact 3 1/2" V-10 1911 on lay a way. One of these keep in safe type. Ive never had a comp pistol so It will be a new experiance. Guess I'll have to wait a while before I can buy again my SS check needs to pay bills and buy gro not guns.
Why do you say this? My 1911 carry gun went 2700 rounds with out ANY problems. It was filthy but never missed a beat. My 96 went over 1500 rounds before I broke down and cleaned it.Originally Posted by Shipwreck
I say this because it is generally true.Originally Posted by 2400
There were some Glock idiots (I say this because they were very rude and insultive towards 1911s) on the Glocktalk sight who have periodic 1000 round shootouts between Glocks and 1911s. Many 1911s cannot go thru 1000 round w/o cleaning - although I say this proves nothing because who generally shoots 1000 rounds at a setting.
But, generally, a 1911 needs more lube/more often than many other guns. This is a fact. I usually disassemble a 1911 and re-oil the rails and a couple of ther parts about 1x a month - that way I know it is reliable.
I don't keep a gun if it isn't reliable, so I have usually had good luck w/ 1911s functioning right. But, this style of gun is usually built to much tighter specs, in order to get the smaller group sizes. Consequently, they are more apt to problems if not cared for in great detail.
IMO Colt Gold Cup is the best 1911 out of the box. But I wouldnt have any reservations in recommending Springfield Armory Loaded, or Smith & Wesson 1911 PD.
I have a Sig GSR Revolution and let me tell you, it is perfect. It is every bit as nice to shoot as the high end 1911's that you read about. Nice gun. And if you are lucky like I was, you can get a used one in exceptional condition for less than $800.
I also have a Kimber Pro Carry II. I was shocked that it has less recoil than my GSR. That means it is on target faster and more accurate. This gun is a commander sized 1911, and conceals very nicely.
My next purchase will be a compact 1911 like a Colt Defender, or PA Warthawg.
After having revolvers and semi's, I'm hooked on 1911's.
Two Colts and one Kimber. All three were fine firearms. I carried the Kimber stainless for several months and was happy with it. I then switched to the Colt Officers because it had the aluminum frame and was substantially lighter to carry... The Kimber because of it being a series one, had a vastly superior trigger pull over the Colt... I was very happy with them but have transitioned into a more modern DA/SA striker fired pistol now... Although it makes more sense for me to carry the more modern weapon, it lacks the romance of the 1911...
i will throw my 2 cents in here because, well, I have owned many of the brands previously mentioned....
First off...I have never had the following:
Charles Daly, Armscor, Para Ordnance, Ed Brown, Wilson, Nighthawk, and Rock River Arms...out of all the other 1911s mentioned above (great post by the way) I have had at least one...I will go through
Smith and Wesson: I had a 1911SC commander with the scadium frame....it shot great, although I did have some problems with locking back on the last round...I sold it because I wasnt as big of a fan in the lightweight platform, commander sized...honestly, there are times when I wish I still had this gun
Dan Wesson: I have had 3 Dan Wesson PT-CBOBs in .45...two pre-CZ, one post....I should have never sold my first one (again, not as big a fan of the commander size)...i bought another one, and it had some sear issues that made it full auto at times, and (since it is a series 70 gun) would go boom when you didnt want it to...sold it to a guy who knew more about the guns and could fix it...when CZ took over I figured I would try them out...i found their quality control lacking...the sites blew off in my first range session, and the gun needed a good throat polishing...i fixed it and sold it...I likely would not buy another..
Rock Island: I am a Rock Island believer...i originally bought one because i wanted a cheap platform to try gunsmithing on...the gun was fantastic...only reason I sold it was to move on to more expensive things...another i wish i had kept and i may buy another
Sig: I had one of the original GSRs...the ones with the frames made out of house by Caspian, and mine had the infamous hammer lean/frame issues that spelled the end of the line....I generally love Sig but was very unhappy to spend 1000+ on a gun and have the beavertail and hammer be crooked...i sent the gun back to them, and all they did was shave the hammer so it didnt rub the frame anymore...needless to say this pissed me off too...long story short, i sold that one too...they say they fixed some of these issues by moving production in house, but they bought the damned machines that caspian used to make the GSRs...i have seen at least 2 revolutions with hammer lean issues...not to mention they have an issue with the extractor retaining pin dropping out of the slide and marring the frame...having said all that, i know there are people who love these guns because, when made correctly, they are a match grade gun and barrel on a solid platform...personally i would avoid...ill stick to the p228
Kimber: I have OWNED three kimbers, and will never own another....2 of them had external extractors, one of them had the new internal...i had the commander sized version of the aluminum gun the above author references...it was like all my other kimbers...they were arguably the MOST accurate 1911s i had...they were, WITHOUT A DOUBT, the most finicky...im talking 10 FTFs/FTEs in 100 rounds with Wilson, McCormick, Kimber, Baer, you name it magazines, and straight 230 grain ball ammo...i will not accept a 10% failure rate on a gun, and so no more kimber for me...again, though, if you get a good one, you have a GREAT gun...i just have gotten 3 bad ones, and now im gun shy (hardy har har)
Colt: I have had more Colts than I can count...my first handgun, that i owned myself, was a series 70 nickel...i sold it because my wife was scared of guns...ive been married to her almost 10 years now, and im still pissed about that....i currently have a custom colt that i love (it is the Punisher's gun from the movie)...some people hate the series 80 because of the extra safety...i dont mind it as much because if you ever get hammer follow the gun wont go boom when you dont want it to....i have had series 70s, a series 80 lightweight commander, the new XSEs, old rollmark 1991s, new rollmark 1991s and I have never had a bad colt...the only reason I have ever sold them is because i have limited gun funds and i get the fever to get something new...if i had unlimited cash i would likely still own them all...now that they are making the series 70 again, this may go on my must have list...the new XSE guns are as good as you can get IMO...of the more common guns, Colt is my second favorite...
Springfield: when anyone asks me what 1911 to buy as their first, this is my answer...get a springfield...again, limited money, but I own 3 1911s...one is a colt, one is a springfield, and the last will be revealed soon! i have had the TRP, TRP Operator, Champion, Micro Compact, Loaded, Mil Spec...they were all great...my current one is a few years older, the combat tactical model that preceeded the TRPs...great guns, great value, lifetime waranty...honest to God, if you have 800 bucks to spend on a 1911, and you want a good gun, buy a mil spec for 500, buy 4 wilson magazines, and spend the rest on ammo...if you need some of the bells and whistles, spend 650 on a loaded, then get the magazines, and the difference in ammo...some people swear by Kimber, I swear at them...i know no one that swears at springfield, and i swear by them...
Les Baer: the only reason I no longer own my springfield TRPs is because i finally broke down and went full custom gun...my baer is a 5" TRS with Heine Night Sights, rear slide sight serations, hard chromed by tripp, with a bobtail installed by les himself...remember that gun fund i referred to? Well this baby depleted it....what to say? Its a hand made, custom fitted gun...you get, in this instance, what you pay for...i love it...its unique, and its mine...i am sure you would be equally as happy with any of the other guns in this class like nighthawk or wilson...again, with unlimited funds, i would own at least one of each...
what you really need to ask yourself is what kind of 1911 you want...what makes this gun so great is how customizable the platform is...
5, 4, or 3 inch barrel? maybe 6? (my punisher gun has a 6 inch compensated barrel)
Beavertail? Traditional grip safety? Single or ambi thumb safety? Series 70 or 80? The list goes on and on...and each person will like different things...
I personally need a beavertail because i have big hands and get hammer bit (although i like the traditional look better)...i dont like ambi safeties...i prefer 5" barrel...i think the bobtails look sweet...but thats me...either way...good luck!!!
2 to stay away from is the firestorm and the argentine both have very bad extractor problems in design.
I have had good luck with my Springfield. It shoots great! i have put quite a few rounds through it without cleaning it and it still worked properly. All depends on the gun.
I have several 1911's and the best by FAR is my Les Baer 5"TRS. Have never had a malfunction and is much more accurate than any pistol I have ever owned. Well worth the money I spent.


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post #9
Planted Tank Guru
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Contra Costa CA
Posts: 11,721
Here is the fishless cycle:
Fishless Cycle
You too can boast that "No fish were harmed in the cycling of your new tank"
Cycling a tank means to grow the beneficial bacteria that will help to decompose the fish waste (especially ammonia). These bacteria need ammonia to grow. There are 3 sources of ammonia that work to do this. One is fish. Unfortunately, the process exposes the fish to ammonia, which burns their gills, and nitrite, which makes their blood unable to carry oxygen. This often kills the fish.
Another source is decomposing protein. You could cycle your tank by adding fish food or a dead fish or shellfish. You do not know how much beneficial bacteria you are growing, though.
The best source of ammonia is... Ammonia. In a bottle.
Using fish is a delicate balance of water changes to keep the toxins low (try not to hurt the fish) but keep feeding the bacteria. It can take 4 to 8 weeks to cycle a tank this way, and can cost the lives of several fish. When you are done you have grown a small bacteria population that still needs to be nurtured to increase its population. You cannot, at the end of a fish-in cycle, fully stock your tank.
The fishless/ammonia cycle takes as little as 3 weeks, and can be even faster, grows a BIG bacteria population, and does not harm fish in any way.
Both methods give you plenty of practice using your test kit.
How to cycle a tank the fishless way:
1) Make sure all equipment is working, fill with water that has all the stuff you will need for the fish you intend to keep. Dechlorinator, minerals for GH or KH adjustments, the proper salt mix, if you are creating a brackish or marine tank. These bacteria require a few minerals, so make sure the GH and KH is at least 3 German degrees of hardness. Aquarium plant fertilizer containing phosphate should be added if the water has no phosphate. They grow best when the pH is in the 7s. Good water movement, fairly warm (mid to upper 70sF), no antibiotics or other toxins.
2) (Optional)Add some source of the bacteria. Used filter media from a cycled tank is best, gravel or some decorations or a few plants... even some water, though this is the poorest source of the beneficial bacteria.
Bacteria in a bottle can be a source of these bacteria, but make sure you are getting Nitrospira spp of bacteria. All other 'bacteria in a bottle' products have the wrong bacteria. This step is optional. The proper bacteria will find the tank even if you make no effort to add them. Live plants may bring in these bacteria on their leaves and stems.
3) Add ammonia until the test reads 5 ppm. This is the non-sudsing, no surfactants, no-fragrance-added ammonia that is often found in a hardware store, discount stores, and sometimes in a grocery store. The concentration of ammonia may not be the same in all bottles. Try adding 5 drops per 10 gallons, then allowing the filter to circulate for about an hour, then test. If the reading isn't up to 5 ppm, add a few more drops and test again. (Example, if your test reads only 2 ppm, then add another 5 drops) Some ammonia is such a weak dilution you may need to add several ounces to get a reading.
4) Test for ammonia daily, and add enough to keep the reading at 5 ppm. You probably will not have to add much, if any, in the first few days, unless you added a good amount of bacteria to jump start the cycle.
5) Several days after you start, begin testing for nitrites. When the nitrites show up, reduce the amount of ammonia you add so the test shows 3ppm. (Add only half as much ammonia as you were adding in part 4) Add this reduced amount daily from now until the tank is cycled.
If the nitrites get too high (over 5 ppm), do a water change. The bacteria growth is slowed because of the high nitrites. Reducing the level of ammonia to 3 ppm should prevent the nitrite from getting over 5 ppm.
6) Continue testing, and adding ammonia daily. The nitrates will likely show up about 2 weeks after you started. Keep monitoring, and watch for 0 ppm ammonia, 0 ppm nitrite and rising nitrates.
7) Once the 0 ppm ammonia and nitrites shows up it may bounce around a little bit for a day or two. Be patient. Keep adding the ammonia; keep testing ammonia, nitrite and nitrate.
When it seems done you can challenge the system by adding more than a regular dose of ammonia, and the bacteria should be able to remove the ammonia and nitrite by the next day.
If you will not be adding fish right away continue to add the ammonia to keep the bacteria fed.
8) When you are ready to add the fish, do at least one water change, and it may take a couple of them, to reduce the nitrate to safe levels (as low as possible, certainly below 10 ppm) I have seen nitrate approaching 200 ppm by the end of this fishless cycle in a non-planted tank.
9) You can plant a tank that is being cycled this way at any point during the process. If you plant early, the plants will be well rooted, and better able to handle the disruption of the water change.
Yes, the plants will use some of the ammonia and the nitrates. They are part of the nitrogen handling system, part of the biofilter, they are working for you. Some plants do not like high ammonia, though. If a certain plant dies, remove it, and only replace it after the cycle is done.
10) The fishless cycle can also be used when you are still working out the details of lighting, plants and other things. If you change the filter, make sure you keep the old media for several weeks or a month. Most of the bacteria have been growing in this media (sponges, floss etc).
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Establishing Virginia Domicile
General Description and Purpose
Virginia domicile is important for students at Virginia public and private institutions. Generally, state financial aid programs and in-state tuition are reserved for Virginia domiciliaries. This publication is designed to introduce students and parents to key concepts concerning domicile. Specific inquiries about domiciliary determination should be directed to the institution a student plans to attend.
Basic Requirements
An individual must demonstrate residence in Virginia and an intent to remain in Virginia indefinitely to establish domicile in Virginia. After meeting the requirements to establish domicile, a person must continue to be domiciled in Virginia for at least 12 months preceding the first day of classes.
Domiciliary Intent
Several factors are used to determine if a person demonstrates intent to remain in Virginia indefinitely. A college or university may ask for information from you or your parents about the following factors:
- Continuous residence in Virginia
- Social and economic ties
- Ownership of real property
- Sources of financial support
- Current employment in Virginia
- Employment in Virginia postgraduation
- Military records
- State to which income taxes are paid
- Voter registration and actual voting
- Driver's license
- Motor vehicle registration
Dependent and Independent Students
A dependent student is a student who receives substantial financial support from his or her parents or legal guardian. A college or university in Virginia looks at the supporting parents' domicile to determine if a dependent student is eligible for in-state tuition or state financial aid programs.
If you are under age 24 on the first day of classes, an institution will classify you as a dependent student unless you: are married; are a veteran or active-duty member of the U.S. armed forces; are a graduate or first-professional student; are a ward of the court or were a ward of the court until age 18; have no adoptive or legal guardian when both parents are deceased;or have legal dependents other than a spouse. If a student under the age of 24 who wishes to be considered independent but does not meet one of these exceptions, then he must be able to demonstrate, via clear and convincing evidence to the insitution, that his parents have surrendered the right to his care, custody, and earnings, do not claim him as a dependent on federal or state income tax returns, and have ceased to provide him substantial financial support.
If you are not classified as a dependent student, you may establish your own Virginia domicile.
Married Students
A married person may establish domicile like any other student. A person's domicile is not automatically altered by marriage. However, if a student receives substantial financial support from his or her spouse, the student may claim domicile through the spouse. In such cases, the college or university will look at the spouse's domicile to determine if the student is eligible for in-state tuition or state financial aid programs. You must inform the institution if you wish to claim domicile through your spouse.
Military Members, Spouses, and Dependents
To encourage members of the U.S. military to establish Virginia domicile, the one year of continuous domicile is not required for military members and for dependent spouses and children claiming domicile through the military member. To initiate payment of Virginia income taxes, military members should contact their military pay offices. The spouse of a military member may qualify for in-state tuition by establishing Virginia domicile, by claiming dependency on the military member who has established Virginia domicile, or through the military provision [Section 23-7.4(E) of the Code of Virginia]. Non-resident military members may be considered for a reduced tuition rate. If you, your spouse, or parent is a member of the military, contact the institution you are interested in attending for more information.
The fact that an individual is a citizen of another country does not automatically disqualify that person from establishing domicile in Virginia. If you are not a U.S. Citizen you will need to present your immigration documentation to the institution. Students unable to present valid, current INS documentation of their alien status cannot demonstrate domicile.
Other Ways to Qualify for In-State Tuition
If you are a student at a public institution and you do not establish domicile in Virginia, you might still qualify for in-state tuition if you are: a student who lives outside Virginia but who works or whose parent works in Virginia; a student participating in a degree program included in the Academic Common Market; a high school student who is in a dual-enrollment program at a community college; a University of Virginia's College at Wise student who resides in Kentucky and who lives within 50 miles of the University of Virginia's College at Wise; or a student attending college through a special arrangement contract entered by your employer and the institution you plan to attend. The institution may charge eligible students a contract rate higher than the actual in-state tuition rate but lower than the out-of-state tuition rate. To learn more about how your circumstances affect your eligibility to establish domicile, please contact the college or university you plan to attend.
For more information regarding Virginia's domicile guidelines, please click here.


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Green Bay Men's Golf Wins Cougar Classic
By: Andrew Gavin (@GBGavin)
CHICAGO, Ill. (GreenBayPhoenix.com) - Led by strong play and top-five finishes from its seniors, the Green Bay men's golf team claimed the championship at the CSU Cougar Classic on Tuesday. Seniors Chad Ebert (Heartland, Wis.) and Cam Fuller (Sturgeon Bay, Wis.) finished in third and fourth, respectively to lead the Phoenix to the title.
Green Bay trailed Valparaiso by four shots entering the second round but made up the ground on Tuesday by tying for the best round of the day. The Phoenix finished with a two-day score of 590, defeating Indian Hills by four strokes and Valpo by five strokes.
Ebert finished the tournament in third place with a two-day score of 146 (70-76) while Fuller was a stroke back in a tie for fourth place (71-76). Ebert had 22 pars for the tournament while Fuller finished with seven birdies - tied for the fourth most in the field.
While the seniors were leading the Phoenix over the course of the two-day event, a sophomore and a freshman shot a pair of 74s on Tuesday to help Green Bay win the title. Sophomore Tom Boockmeier (Green Bay, Wis.) and freshman Gene Kiela (Plymouth, Wis.) both carded 2-over par 74s on Tuesday to pace the Phoenix. The pair finished in a tie for eighth and a tie for 19th, respectively.
Junior Dan Ozga (Edgerton, Wis.) had the team's third best score on the team in Monday's opening round and finished in a tie for 13th after rounds of 74 and 76.
CSU Cougar Classic
Team Scores
1. Green Bay, 290-300=590
2. Indian Hills, 294-300=594
3. Valparaiso Gold, 286-309=595
4. Lewis, 297-303=600
5. St. Xavier, 298-313=611
6. Eastern Illinois, 315-300=615
7. Valparaiso Brown, 305-311=616
8. Parkland CC, 310-311=622
9. Loyola, 304-321=625
10. Purdue-Calumet, 325-328=653
11. Chicago State, 371-371=742
Individual Scores
3. Chad Ebert, 70-76=146
T4. Cam Fuller, 71-76=147
T8. Tom Boockmeier, 75-74=149
T13. Dan Ozga, 74-76=150
T19. Gene Kiela III, 78-74=152
For the latest and most up-to-date information on Green Bay Athletics, please visit GreenBayPhoenix.com.
Follow us on Twitter: @GBPhoenix, @GBPhoenixMGolf, @GBPhoenixWGolf and @GBGavin.
Like Green Bay Phoenix Athletics on Facebook.


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We have long been unhappy with the gallery software we are currently using and while it has served its purpose, thanks to the hard work of stormtrooperguy, we have a new gallery in the works that will have areas for both reference and also an area for members of our member's hard work! The one drawback? We can't easily move the current gallery images to the new gallery. This is a bit frustrating but is simply the way it is. Once we open the new gallery, we will leave the old up for about a month to allow anyone who wishes to transfer their photos, to do so, but after that, we will be removing the old gallery and any photos within it for good.
We are very excited about making this new information available to you and hope that it will continue to improve your experience here at TDH!


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Hi all, I think I must be doing something wrong because I have both an 8000 and a 9000 and the picture quality has been and continues to be really poor. I do photo novelties and never noticed how bad the pics were until I used an inkjet to compare. Maybe you can give me some insight on the settings that are not correct, as I'm sure this is the problem. I've never heard anything negative about Mitsu printers and I really want them to print the way they're supposed to! I printed two of the same pics. One with a Canon i900d on photo paper plus glossy and the other was printed with the CP-9000. The Canon print was MUCH clearer, sharper and more true to life. The CP-9000 print looks "flat", dark, out of focus, grainy and too green. What am I doing wrong?! The pics were printed straight from the CF card and the ICC profile is installed on my laptop. There must something I'm doing funky to get a $200 inkjet to print better than a $1,500 dye sub...Thanks very much for your help with this!
Very Poor Mitsu Print Quality!
Started by Guest_Dan Goldman_* , Sep 10 2004 01:36 AM
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Marquette, MI, USA < change city >
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Everything was perfect.
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text:
'Patrick Kaleta was ejected from the game following a major boarding penalty for a hit from behind on Jared Ross. Kaleta received a five-minute boarding penalty and a game misconduct for the hit. Riley Cote was called for a two-minute roughing minor for going after Kaleta following the hit.'
Connolly Scores Twice As Sabres Top Flyers 4-2
November 28, 2009 Submitted by
Via: WGR-AM


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And this is why you ALWAYS intermix cans of paint.
Over at another forum there is a perfect example of why you ALWAYS intermix cans of paint. If you order up enough paint for your project and it is in more than one can, don't assume they were mixed properly, don't assume anything! Get another new, empty can if you must, and use it to intermix the cans of paint you have to be SURE they are the exact color.
This fella made a very common mistake, he trusted the paint store. I did the same thing once, which was my first lesson on the subject. It is an easy fix in his case and he will keep right on rocking. But it could have been a disaster.
Different shades of white purchased and mixed at the same time.
Here is a "Basics of Basics" on painting a car in pieces.
Spraying - Autobodystore
This is especially important on metallic colors
And just one more reason I leave body work and painting to those who do it on a regular basis!
It is VERY easy to be mixing a formula (a "recipe" if you will) and put in a little more or less of a toner. We are talking about down to the tenths of a gram of color. Some toners are very strong, one drip could be a tenth of a gram or more. You mix your color on a very accurate scale, you pour in your toner up to a certain number, then pour the next up to the next number in the formula then the next and so on. With modern scales hooked to a computer there are some corrections that can be made. Older systems are simply pour up to the number and then change to the next toner in the "recipe". It is VERY easy to be off a hair. It just isn't that important most of the time to get them EXACT. For what ever reason, they are going to be blended anyway, they are going to be matched anyway, they are for an overall, etc.
Here is a great video on mixing on the scale. I just found it for this particular reason and didn't watch the whole thing so I can't support everything they say on it. But at about 6:50 they are mixing paint on a scale.
But if you are mixing say a five quarts of color (a gallon and a quart) for the customer, you mix a gallon in the gallon can, then you mix the quart in another quart can and hand it to the customer. Right off the bat if you added a drip or two more of a strong toner in both of them equally, the quart one is going to be changed MUCH more by that drip or two right? And being we are human, there is a very good chance the two are going to be different. How much different, often it doesn't even matter. But to be SURE, you intermix them.
The best way is to have them mix the quart in a gallon can. Then you just shake or stir them up well and pour a few quarts out of the gallon of paint into the gallon can with only one quart in it. Stir it up well and pour it back into the other gallon can, then stir that up and pour it back. Do this a few times and you KNOW you have the EXACT same color in both cans.
Last edited by MARTINSR; 11-25-2012 at 01:26 PM.
"Parts" are OK when writing or using a formula, the caveat is the same parts (grams, pounds, ounces, etc.) must be used throughout the formula.
I guess but "parts" when referring to paint is just that "parts" three table spoons to one table spoon is 3:1, just the same as three gallons to one gallon is 3:1. Around paint that is a part a gram is a gram and never to the two trains meet.
Unless you're painting a locomotive...
When it comes to mixing, whites are the worst, wouldn't you agree Brian? Of coarse most of the toner is white, but, to give different shades of white, an extremely small amount of blacks, blues, greens or oxides are added. If your off just the slightest amount, your color's off...This coupled with variances (different shades or hues of the same color) from the factory, now you've got an even more agonizing experience...Tinting any color is an art, tinting white is the epitome of the art. I find white to be the hardest color to spray, it's difficult to see where your going or where you've been, I call it going snow blind...Most forgiving color though for suspect body work.
True! When I was a rep I had a store that sold paint to the "Skunk Train" company. Step Back in Time on Mendocino County's Historic Skunk Train
I had the good fortune of going to the shop where they worked on them regularly and getting to climb into a boiler and stuff like that. The most cool part was I had a 94 year old neighbor who spent his entire working life with Southern Pacific and I would come home and tell him about an old steam locomotive I saw up there and he would tell me all kinds of facts about it or some story about when he was working with them back in the thirties! Man do I miss that guy he was so darn interesting.
I'm glad you mentioned spray outs, without spraying the color and letting them dry, you don't know what you have...with today's B/C, you need to clear them as well and in many cases the clear changes the color especially the lighter colors like whites
I was just thinking about the formula books we had and I mean a library of books...then came microfiche and how about gram scales and the computer mixing systems we have today, how did we ever mix a color that matched with the old raise the mixing arm a certain amount and pour your toner in until it hits the pointy piece on the arm system...It's so long ago I can't even remember what we called it.
I worked for a while at a combo body/repair shop off OBT in Orlando, Vince's Auto Body. The owner, Vince, was pretty impressive when it came to paint matching. He'd look it over in the shade and in the sunlight (never saw him use artificial light), then he'd disappear for a while then come back w/a touch up gun and a small rubberized magnetic sheet. He'd shoot the sheet than lay it on the panel after drying. He always seemed to get it pretty darned close. He'd do this a couple times till he was satisfied, the first time looked perfect to me but usually not to him.
He was the only paint guy I was around. He made me look at a gray metallic panel until I could see that there were actually several different colors that could be made out. Greens and blues. Or else I was hallucinating.
You have to really have a passion for color match, either that or a serious God given talent.
You mention the sun over artificial light, the guys are work KILL ME they use that F-ng light all the time! The sun is right out side, and there they are using that F-ing hand held light. GRRRRRRR no wonders they can't match worth a crap. And Ray, another thing is using the clear you are going to use on the frigging car! The film thickness, the yellow (I know it shouldn't be there but it sometimes is) of the clear, it is very important to dupicate exactly what you are going to do on the car it's self. What sense does it make to spray the color different than how it will be sprayed on the car?
And of course practicing spraying it out with the same air pressure and distance. Again, I have seen guys bombing it on the spray out card coat after coat seconds apart just inches away so it covers fast. Are they going to paint the car that way? How do they expect it to match?
I have a guy I work with who has beached about the paint not matching when he has sprayed a spray out card that DID match. What do you say to a guy like this? I calmly asked, "How could the spray out card match and the paint on the car doesn't"? SOMETHING changed between the spray out card and the car, SOMETHING changed. He honestly believed it was the paint that somehow changed, I am not making this up!
Oh now you have me started, I need to go relax.
Talking about matching, sunlight, distance, pressure, tinting...and with today's paints, the angle (or flip) that you see the color can be lighter or darker, depending on the metallic you use...Like I say Brian, it's an art and i know you used to be a rep....How many times didn't you get called into a screaming customer that couldn't match a color....You need to get good quick or the competition got the account.
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