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Pennsylvania inspection law hassles?
Forgive me if this topic is listed already, I could not find anything in the beginner's section or knowledge base. I am from PA and before I even think about spending time or money, I am wondering what kind of hassles to expect when trying to get a vehicle inspected for street use? Appreciate any help in getting more information.
How do you mean?
Old car without registration (title), ex race car, ...................???
All street cars must pass certain tests.
Thanks for the response. I am an avid sprint car fan and have seen a sprint car converted to street use (but the car/inspection was from another state), so that would be my interest. The reason I chose this site is because I see hot rods that are street legal and have no fenders, for example, which is part of the problem when converting a sprint car. There would be no title, and then the problem with no lights, etc. The car I saw had all of these, but no roof, fenders, bumpers, etc. The full roll cage was intact, as was the 5 point harness, etc. I'm just wondering what kind of nightmare it would be to try to get something like this street legal in PA?
I would think, a big headache....It all depends on the laws regarding this sort of thing in your state......fenders, lights etc....That is the stuff you have to find out first.....Contact your Department of Trnasportation
PA registration is a rough road.
I went through it 2 years ago and there have been some changes in the law since then. At first I thought that if I pay all the sales tax (for the parts purchased out-of-State) how hard could it be? It's hard but it was worth it.
You really need to be prepared for some very challenging problems during the build. PA registration, compared to some things, was not in the top ten.
PA has a specific category detailed in The Pennsylvania Code subchapter K. Street rods, specially constructed and reconstructed vehicles.
This Street Rod registration permits many things you cannot do otherwise, such as a chopped (7") windshield, no bumpers and no fenders.
Try to find a Notary that handles Street Rod registration. The Notary (Ann Marie Mint) in Coopersburg is geart. And an inspection station that handles Street Rods. Wes Jackson is Royersford is the best. Your local State Police barracks can give you a list of inspection stations that do Street Rods. These people know what it takes and keep up with any changes.
SAVE YOUR RECEIPTS no matter what State you purchased the item. You will need to prove that you paid PA tax for everything. Any unpaid tax will be due at the time you apply for registration.
What are you planning to build?
I appreciate the help that everyone has rendered. I stated in an earlier post that I am an avid sprint car fan and would like to convert one to street use. I have seen one in action (but it is from another state) so I wanted to know what to expect in PA. The advice to seek a notary, inspection station and police familiar with these vehicles is super - thanks! I have contacted state police, in general terms, but they really wanted to see plans, etc. At this stage I am simply trying to decide if the hassle is worth it!
Make absolutely sure all of your suspension and chassis parts are not race pieces. If they are, make sure you have a sticker on them... doesn't matter which one, just pick one. I had Afco upper arms on a 66 Bonneville that I tried to register in PA. No way would it pass. I called Hotchkis, ordered a catalog for free (which came with stickers), installed the stickers on the control arms and they passed with flying colors. The inspector was heard exclaiming, "I didn't know Hotchkis made B-body suspension stuff..." It has to be either a stock piece or a performance aftermarket piece designed for that vehicle.
Eliminate every single spherical heim joint. They won't pass. All ball joints, tie rod ends, etc must be a tapered seat like a factory application.
You'll always find shops that will let anything pass, but if you want to be able to inspect it at your choice of places, make sure you have strong ties to a factory setup. It can be a chevy that is hopped up beyond all recognition, but they don't want to see it go the other way around. They don't want to see a race car brought down to street duty.
If you'll always be around the same place every year, you might have a friend of a friend who will let it sneak by. There are some places that understand that the spirit of the law is to keep road cars safe and if they see that yours is safe, they'll put a sticker on it. Others won't put their sticker on it if it has a stone chip in the windshield. But if a shop sees big frame rails and no bumper and you end up killing a pedestrian, it comes back to them and they lose their business, their license, and are liable for some of the damages.
I might suggest buying a $100 Cutlass at a junkyard, combining the parts (as per the law which I think states 30%) into one car and legally using the title, VIN, and designation of the Cutlass to get an "R" title. Then you have a legally altered street vehicle provided it passes inspection. I'm planning on that with an old IH scout on a Ford Bronco chassis. The IH doesn't have a title, but the Bronco does. Under certain parameters its legal to title the vehicle to the VIN of the vehicle that donated X% of the parts. The interpretation of that law is up to you, the inspection station, and the DOT.
Expect to have trouble even after you've followed the law. Inspection stations don't read the Vehicle code, they follow a checklist. Chances are they'll tell you that things can't be done even if you have the vehicle code book right in front of you. They get a little squirrely when they see something odd
Good luck!
Thanks curtis73
Good info and advice. I can buy a version of a sprint car that races here in PA (they are called super sportsman) and basically just add lights, etc. The cars already have a clutch, starter & battery, etc., so in some ways this project would be 'cheating'! You make an interesting point about suspension pieces - that would be a problem. Thanks for the insights!
DIY frame with donor mechanicals - PA streetlegal?
I am in the planning stages of building a V8 powered shopping cart as a promotional and parade vehicle for a local grocery store chain. Similar to the one shown in this link:
I will be using the driveline (engine, trans, shaft and rear axle, front suspension, brakes, etc) from a V8 sedan or truck (depends on what I can find). One thing we are considering is how much additional work we have to go through to make this beast actually street legal. I am reviewing the rules and paperwork for PA titling and inspection. My understanding so far is even if I use the vin from the donor vehicle, if i use the open frame style of the NC cart shown above there is no way I can get it past the safety inspection. I can add lights, a windscreen, wipers, signals, etc. Does anyone have experience with a scratch-built vehicle that successfully titled and registered it in PA. We can use the vehicle strictly for parade use, but that will really limit the fun we can have with it. Thanks.
ala cart
Long ago I was an inspection mechanic in Pa.I left after the law kept pulling me over for bucket seats in my 57 chevy Duals and an assortment of other Bs.I really think you are wasting your time and money but we had builders titles then% times out of 97 it took forever.Me,now I would check Marylands laws.They seemed to be alot more easy on the rodders than Pa.Sorry I couldn' t give you more specifics as I am sure this is what you are needing.I had a model a coupe chopped and channeled and I had a builders title.
You might search for a place in PA that build such (sandrails) and see what they are doing to get their creations titled.
Sounds like a fun project, good luck and keep us in the loop.
Last edited by lakeroadster; 10-12-2010 at 05:48 PM.
PA Title
@Moontanker and @Lakeroadster,
Thanks for the advice. I like the sandrail idea. I will check around and find some builders and inspection stations for their advice/opinions. I think we will collect the parts to make the cart street legal and decide on the parade-only vs street legal after I find some precedents for such a vehicle being titled in PA (sandrail-type). I will keep the forum posted.
This will probably be of some help.
also, an addendum that for some reason is not included. This, however, only applies to "Street Rods", which PA defines as vehicles manufactured 1948 or earlier (or repro's of said vehicles).
And finally, if you want to know where the PA inspection mechanic is supposed to get his training info, here it is:
Specially constructed vehicle fact sheet:
Specially constructed would cover your scenario as well as dune buggies. Specially constructed vehicles are inspected asthe type of vehicle they are.
Meaning your car would have to pass all of the passenger car inspection criteria.
It does not qualify as a street rod or reconstructed vehicle.
Obviously, rules get bent from time to time, but I am thinking you are going to have a very hard time, if not impossible, doing what you are trying to do in PA.
Last edited by kukamojo; 10-13-2010 at 07:37 AM.
Not looking good in PA
@Kukamojo, thanks for the links, very helpful.
After reading through the guides published by the PA DMV, it looks my hot rod shopping cart would be considered a "Specially Constructed Vehicle". I called several Enhanced Inspection Stations, the first said "there is just no way to make it legal", the second was much more helpful and gave me a few tips on what I could and could not do.
The first problem I faced was that the exceptions that are made for hot rods do not apply to Specially Constructed Vehicles, so my cart must pass the same inspection as a current passenger vehicle. Meaning that my cart has to have fenders. Not a big deal, I can put some fenders on it that will not wreck the look I am going for. I commented that I had seen street legal sand rails with no fenders and he said that, technically, a sand rail or dune buggy would need fenders.
The real kicker for me is the requirement that the "Hood completely cover the engine". I can put a floor on the bottom of the basket portion of my cart (that will "cover" the engine), but does the "completely cover" mean the sides cannot be exposed? Again, sand rails do not have enclosed engine compartments. Any ideas or experience out there? (I need to find a sand rail forum and cross-post)
Update on PA title and inspection
I did some online research and found a helpful "enhanced inspection station" in West Chester PA (Chris Radhill Auto - very knowledgeable). It appears that as long as the cooling fan is covered with something to safeguard fingers, you can have the engine exposed. So fenders, windshield and other bits will be added to get me street legal. An 06 Crown Victoria front suspension and a drivetrain from a 77 Dodge Sportsman Van are now being combined with 120 feet of 2" tube. We will see how hard it actually is to title this. I will keep the forum posted.
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By Stecker
from Ottawa ohio
About Me Avid Cyclist
Comments about Nashbar Single Wheel Bag:
Very nice wheel bags. Grate price. Very well built. Would purchase again.
Bottom Line Yes, I would recommend this to a friend
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Affordable wheelbag
By Eph Juantov
from Fremont, CA
See all my reviews
Some bags are just too expensive for what it does. This wheelbag serves my purpose of allowing me to transport the wheelset without worrying about the spokes or the skewers running across another wheel. I have 3 pairs now and its holding up well. Only had an issue with one center cover being unsewn. Wheelbag in itself is big enough for a 700c x 25mm tire. Any larger tire will have a hard time fitting in.
No Frills Wheel Bag
By bikerphil
from Tucson, AZ
About Me Competitive Cyclist
The wheel fits in and zips up with no hassle even with the skewer. Its simple, good quality and works as well as others costing twice the price.
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Great bags. Nylon is thicker than expected. Nice little reinforcement on the inside where the hub hits the bag and a little pouch for the QR. The price can't be beat.
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These wheel bags allow me to carry numerous sets of wheels to and from events without worrying about damage to my wheels.
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It's a bag, it's fine. Kinda expensive for what it is. Fits 26in mountain bike tyres (up to 2.5 inches) and 700cc road tyres. Remember, it says single wheel.
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I bought these to keep my race wheels from being scraped up during transport in my vehicle. No, I wouldn't use these as a shipping containers or protection against rough handling. But as a lightweight alternative they do the job I needed done. Zipped up fine with tires and skewers in place with 700c road wheels. I expect these wouldn't work quite as well with a fully inflated cyclocross tires or mountain-bike wheels, however.
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Thread: wrinkled vains
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wrinkled vains
I read this fourm a lot but do not post. Usually dont have much to say. But enjoy and learn alot from here. I shoot a mathews switchback 70# 29 inch draw 404 grain carbon force 300 arrows with a mathews fall away rest at 273 fps. The problem that i have is my vains get wrinkled on me after just a little shooting. it dosent matter what vain it is. All three vains do it. I shoot 4 inch vains. I really like my set up. ON 3d shoots i went from an avrage of 340 up to around 370 with this set up. This is getting old of always re-fleching my arrows to keep my vains straight. Any suggestions?
Thanks Tom
Your vanes should not wrinkle unless your are getting fletching contact or are blowing through the target.
There is a temporary fix. Take a lighter to the vane or a heat gun. If you use the lighter, hold it below the vane a wave it back and forth. Do not hold it in one spot too long or you will melt the vane. You must do both sides of the vane to straighten it. You can do this a couple times until it will no longer work. Disclaimer, do this at your own risk. Don't start a fire or burn yourself.Chris Christenson - Admin
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Time for a big can of spray on Dr. Schoells That will give you a good indication of where your interferance is comming from, or you could take the easy way out and just use Blazers, but I was never a fan of the easy wayI cut things up and split them down!


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ExcellentI now have a perfect setup!! A Vapor Zeus battery with cigar liquid and and batterywith tobacco liquid~~~!!
This cigar liquid is VERY much like a premium cigar!!!
Thanks V4L love my system (zeus large)
Gobsmacked!That very first draw, inhaling a vapor that fills your mouth and nostrils with strong cigar flavors... and then it stops at the throat. Toking on this juice should be considered an extreme sport. It is STRONG, (and I had ordered a 36mg bottle!).
Delightful peppery notes, and other 'manly' flavors, create a cigar-like experience. I use it as a concentrate to add depth and flavor to tobacco juices. The Good Stuff.
amazing E- liquidThe throat hit on this E-liquid it outstanding!!! not to mention it actually taste like a real cigar and smells like one to! if you are a cigar fan this is definitely the way to go! Amazing job V4L
Very GoodThe flavor is excellent. The throat hit is unbelievable. I am a throat hit fanatic, and this stuff needs to be cut I have to say it. I am used to 36mg of everything. 24 at the least. You take a pull off of this, you can let it sit in your mouth for... 20 seconds. Then try to inhale and you will still be choking a lung. Your tongue will even burn a little after a while just puffing. I don't know if perhaps I accidentally got a double-dose of nic in the batch or something? But it really feels like WAY more than the 24 I ordered. If it numbs up your tongue it is definitely 'WOW'.
The flavor is hard to beat however. I mean this is by far the best 'tobacco' flavor anybody has ever done. It also does resemble a good cigar. I'm going to try ordering 11mg and see what happens next time though. I had to throw this batch out. I just can't take it!
A dark juice with massive flavor and depthI love this stuff! I can't say this literally tastes like a cigar, but I don't think that's actually possible with vaping, so it's more a question of whether it's a sufficiently comparable experience to a real cigar, and that it is. I love a strong, full bodied, and complex cigar, though, and this juice rises closer to that realm than I would have thought I'd ever get from vaping, so I'm very excited about that. I think I'm tasting strong cinnamon and clove in this stuff, which was a bit excessive at first but blended and calmed down considerably after a week of steeping, so I'd recommend doing that. It's definitely impossible to inhale this stuff, at least for me (because of the cinnamony bite, not because of the nicotine level) but that has been my holy grail: a vapor that's strong and voluminous enough to not require inhaling, and I am there now!
One thing that amazes me is how much it creates the illusion of actual smoke -- in a very good way, not in a barbecue sauce or ashtray way. I can't put my finger on it, but there's a sort of dry smokelike sensation and mouthfeel that I'm guessing is associated with the clove flavor.
I'm using this with my Vapor Zeus. This is a very dark juice and it clogged up my smileomizer pretty quickly, which is a tradeoff you have to expect with a darker juice, so I've had to clean the smileomizer much more frequently. I tried mixing the juice with a lighter, blander one and the flavor proved strong enough to come through pretty well, so that's one possibile way to go, but the full on effect of this juice is worth the extra effort. What I'm trying now is using a tank with a WOW vapor cartomizer, since the carts are cheaper, and saving the smileomizers for milder fluids. I think that might be the best option.
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'The timing of it has allowed us to do it in a competitive way; it has allowed us to do it without any government subsidy, which is very important today. And I believe if we manage our costs and do a good job of supplying a product to the general public that they want, I believe this team can be financially successful.'
The Golisano Interview
March 17, 2003 Submitted by
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|Topic Review (Newest First)
Spring lines plus a wheel at the corner of the dock you are gonna pivot on should work fine. I've seen people actually just manually maneuver boats out of difficult slips from the dock with lines, yank em around and get em pointed the right way from the end of the finger peir, then step on and motor off. Nothing says you have to do it the hard way.
I was out with a friend in his cape dory 28 the other day and we were practicing spinning the boat with propwalk, power bursts against rudders, etc. It was pretty cool, you can actually just more or less sit there and spin if you need to and are in practice, but I finally mentioned that I wasn't a power boater and would like to do some sailing. hahah.
capt ken has it right, make some buoys and go out and spend a whole afternoon practicing someplace wide open where a mistake won't mean anything.
I think Welshwind's "Bow sailing" is the key and backing into the slip is the answer.
We once had our Endeavour 37 in a North "pointing" slip and could always count on a brisk South or South-west breeze in the late afternoon or early evening when we returned from a cruise. The Endeavour has a shoal keel and prop-walks to port in a big way. (I tell people that the boat can only go in two directions ... forward and sideways!)
After much practice and trial and error, I found I could cruise along about 15 feet from the ends of the finger docks (the boat heading West) at idle speed or in neutral until the boat's midship portion was adjacent to our slip. At this point I would slide 'er into reverse. The boat would slow and stop; the bow would start swinging to starboard ("bow sailing" toward the North); the stern would start walking to port. If I timed everything right, the stern would be even with the slip, stopped, and the boat at about a 45 degree angle pointing North-west, so to speak. Then, applying more or less reverse thrust as the bow continued to "sail" North, I'd just back right in.
When I got good at it the dock idlers were all impressed; I almost looked like I knew what I was doing. I never bothered to correct that assumption.
Make a few (about four) buoys out of empty milk jugs, string of suitable length and some bricks. Find an out-of-the way spot, stop the boat and plant the buoys a suitable distance off your boat's beam to simulate the width, length and orientation of your slip. Then practice, practice, practice!
As others have pointed out, the trick is to learn the way your boat moves under given conditions of wind and engine power and then USE this instead of trying to fight it. Good luck!
Just my two cents.
|Thanks for all the help everyone. Finally got some lessons on board the boat. Of course we wanted to practice docking. We turned when our instructor told us to and totally missed our slip. After three more attempts our instructor deemed the boat one of the hardest to dock boats she has been on. We have a shoal keel and one of the smallest rudders ever. The boat is a bear to get turning. But pulsing the power seems to get the turn going and practicing spring lines tied to the dock will probably be the way we operate her in the wind when leaving the dock.
Bow sailing
Isn't the condition he is talking about known as bow sailing? If I encounter that situation, I simply let the wind take the bow downwind and back up stern-to-wind until I get to where I can manuever. Once I learned to NOT fight the wind and to use it around the dock, it all became much easier. This type of backing hasn't required dealing with the springs lines and such.
I use the aft spring line technique also and it works great. My dock is on the starboard side of the boat; the boat walks to port when in reverse; I need to swing the stern to starboard when backing out. The springline on the aft starboard corner enables me to do that. I play with the tension on the line while backing out to keep the boat parallel with the dock, once I am out far enough, I hold the line fast, and the stern swings around.
If you don't want to use the spring line technique, you could pull the old spin-o-rama technique; it works great with a fin keel: once out of the slip, turn hard to starboard and give forward thrust, just enough to get the bow rotating starboard, then switch to reverse without changing the rudder angle; this checks forward motion and walks the stern to port. Before the boat starts moving backwards too much, shift into forward again; this stops backward motion and swings the bow starboard. Just keep repeating the process until you are pointed in the correct direction. Remember, keep the wheel turned to starboard at all times. I can spin my 38 footer on its keel using this technique.
Note, if your prop walk is to starboard instead, then reverse all of the directions above (keep the wheel turned to port at all times).
Yeah, people may think your crazy, but it works.
|I'm not a big fan of using Polypropylene for dock lines. It is significantly weaker than nylon and far more subject to UV degradation IIRC.
In general, I would always recommend getting your spring lines out first. In fact, I'll go so far as to say that you should have at least one spring line on the dock before you run any breast or head/stern lines-always. A spring line can, quite easily, become a breast line, or even end up a stern line. But a head line or a breast line will little serve you when you really need a spring line to work against. The reason I say always is that nature is fickle. If your engine control is going to fail in the ahead position, is it going to fail during the hour trip up river, or is it going to fail in the five seconds before you need to move it to astern to prevent ramming M/V Legal Beagle? There is nothing like a spring line for controlling the vessel alongside. And, as Val says, you should leave them rigged at all times when alongside. In a situation where excessive strain is placed on your lines, ie...collision, large surge, tide/current, the breast lines will always part first. Your springs and head/stern will part last, and prevent you fro doing the severe damage more likely to result from running ahead or astern. The suggestion on polypropylene is a good one as it floats in salt water, but will not take the strain of other synthetics.
|Thanks for all the responses everyone. It's much appreciated. I've already read Jack Klangs PDF on docking but there wasn't anything directly addressing the conditions we found ourselves in. Keeping the boat backed in might definitely be the solution although then getting the boat docked might well become the problem. But we're going to try the port spring line as well.
Originally Posted by sailaway21
You might wish to peruse the thread called "docking tricks" in the seamanship forum. It contains many stories, 37 of 'em, on how to avoid merging fiberglas with immovable objects. If you are feeling particularly beset by the forces of wind and tide, you might consider reading the thread in "Off Topic" called "ouch". It won't tell you much, but it will sure put your woes in perspective. (G)
You might wish to peruse the thread called "docking tricks" in the seamanship forum. It contains many stories, 37 of 'em, on how to avoid merging fiberglas with immovable objects. If you are feeling particularly beset by the forces of wind and tide, you might consider reading the thread in "Off Topic" called "ouch". It won't tell you much, but it will sure put your woes in perspective. (G)
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|Topic Review (Newest First)
I'm using a double 7"; also no room for an 8" on tmy 3400-pound car.
I've used the Hawk high friction pads and, while they do work better than the stock pads, I get a lot of brake dust.
Great. I hope it all works for you. Mine still are marginal at best for holding the car with the e-brake. You absolutely must cycle it every time you run the car or they will not adjust. My biggest problem is that I forget the e-brake is on and drive off untill I notice it. It really needs a "brake" light.
As far as the braking goes this system with Granada front rotors is reasonable for my car. The car is only 2800 pounds rolling so it stops right with most of the modern day performance cars. My winter project is to install some Hawk high friction pads and a double 7" booster. This will allow the brakes to match my "go" power.
If your car is heavier I'd suggest you do this too. actually if you can use the 8" booster it will be even better. I don't have room in my car.
I wound up fabbing a bracket and the only modification I had to make was shortening the spring (it would bind and not allow the caliper to compress fully.
Seems to work OK for now.
It shouldn't be too difficult to make a special bracket. I'd try and use a piece of square to rectangle tubing about 1/8 wall. cut it off at some angle and drill the holes as required. You may have to make a couple attempts to get it right.
Otherwise cut up some flat stock and weld it all together. It's lots easier to do this with a TIG welder than a wire welder.
Mine mount at the front AND the rear which is why I use two RH calipers in my application. One caliper works correctly, the other _would_ work correctly if it just had the brackets for a RH caliper.
I'll keep looking. The guy from Caddliacs Only wants $350 for a full set with brackets which is too much just to get two RH brackets. Looks like I'll be spending time at Pick-and-Pay . Or how hard could it be to fab a RH bracket?
I would suggest you cut off your current stuff and get the Speedway kit. I like the weld on one but there is a bolt on one too.
Go thru the disassembly process as described in the above links. observe the difference in operation left to right. You probably don't have to take the pistons/clutch apart unless you have rust in the caliper. If that is the case I'd just replace them...about $100 each.
Make sure you have the correct hats too.
good luck
Ok I have a couple of pictures. I had to take these blind as it was raining and I had to slither under the car in the trailer. I couldn't see the view finder so I just shot with macro and flash.
The first was the left side without flash
the second was the left with flash
the third was the left side
the fourth was the right side
If you look very carefully you can see the R and the L in the castings
My calipers are on the front side of the rear end so I guess that is why I had to reverse the guts.
If you look close you can see the small tabs I welded on to the arms.
I think I also either redrilled a hole or ground somethign out of the brackets.
It's been at least 10 years since I did this and I have replaced pads twice and bled them a few times due to leaks.
This is a weld on kit from Speedway. I used a Lokar floor mount e-brake handle. You have to get the adjustment just right for it to really work. My car idles about 900 rpm and pulls against the brakes. These did hold for the safety inspection however.
I was just at an event tonight and I think I may add Hawk pads later this summer (if we have one). I'd really like the brakes to work harder.
I looked at a left-hand caliper. It can only be mounted on the axle brackets so that the bleeder valve is pointed down, so that won't fix the problem. That's why there are two right-hand calipers used in this application.
I am all too familiar with these bad boys.
(That actually comes up as the first result for Googling "seville parking brake calipers hotrod".)
I was working on them just before health and family issues forced me to set this project aside two years ago.
NAPA and the Caddy dealer are no help. That means Pick-A-Part or a place like http://www.cadillacsonly.com/.
Or I suppose I can cut, bend and re-weld the left-hand bracket; the lever arm looks like it will work just being flipped over.
Can I find the brackets on any other GM vehicle of the era? I've read that these are 79-85 Seville and some Eldorados. With my luck, Pick-A-Part will no have any . . .
P.I.T.A. is what they really are.
You need both left and right hand calipers as the ratchet mechanisim is based on a one way clutch. In other words one works going CW the other workd going CCW.
Also the matching brackets.
If it stops raining I'll back the car out of the trailer try and get a couple pictures of how mine is mounted and the mods to the arms and bkts. These are just a small welded piece on each.
I also looked on Speedway and they have some instructions on the bleeding and residual valve issue. They say to remove the calipers and bleed them by pointing the bleeders vertical. You still need to tap on the caliper with a small hammer to shake the final bubbles out of the ratchets.
From what I read here and what I saw when I took the the parking brake copmponents off yesterday, I have two right-hand Seville rear calipers but a left- and right-hand set of parking brake brackets.
So I need to obtain a set of right-hand brackets to make both cables work correctly and then adjust the brakes, then remember to set the parking brake every time I park the car.
So somebody else found this little problem.
These are Seville rear brakes.
The cables are normally run over the rear end and pull the opposite way from the way we like to see them on our streetrods.
So what to do??
First do a search for Seville rear brake problems on the internet. Eventually you will get some information on how these work. This will give you the information you will need to work with these brakes. I'd help out but I lost the URLs in a computer crash a while ago.
Take a very close look at what happens when you move the cable arm. You may have two of the same side. There is a left and a right.
I mounted mine so the cables pull from the front, sort of like you have done. Unfortunately this puts them on the wrong side of the rear end.
They don't tell you this in the instructions. BTW, no instructions came with my kit.
I had to do this the hard way.
I took them apart and reversed the gut pieces, left went to the right, right went to the left. I also had to make a minor modification to the arms as a result. I think I reversed the arms too. There was a minor mod done to the brackets too. This made it so when the arms are pulled forward the E brake applies. It's been 10 years so memory is a little short.
You also should get a couple of rebuild kits as you will most likely damage at least one of the o rings. Oh yes these kits can be a bit hard to get.
You will also need a 10 psi residual valve on the rear brakes. These are the only disc brakes requiring this. There is a GM TSB regarding this. If you don't do this you will have low pedal. The reason for this is that the parking brake retracts the piston about .050 instead of .010 so you need to have some residual pressure to keep the pads near the rotor.
When you bleed these it very important to make sure all the air is out of the system. As I recall the last time I serviced mine I removed the caliper and rotated it so the bleeder was straight up. I think one of the GM TSB says to wiggle the caliper around to make the final air bubbles come out. They get caught in the ratchet mechanism. Pressure bleeding will not help. Actually a true vacuum bleeding is the best but it is very hard to do. When I repaired a leak in one of these I bled it on the bench first then again when I installed it on the car. This worked the best. I actually have very high pedal now.
It can be difficult to get the adjustment correctly. If you dig around on the internet you find various methods of doing this. Most say that you need to snap the lever about 30-50 times to get the one way clutch inside to ratchet to the minimum position. It is a real pain. If you are really, really careful you can remove the arm and turn the shaft untill you can just get the arm back on. This will usually cost you and o-ring. BTW I used a small vise grip on the arm when snapping. It makes it easier.
Plan on an all day project if everything works the first time.
Caddy mechanics cussed these everyday.
They actually do work once you get them set up.
Finally you MUST activate the E brake every time to park the car. If you don't the ratchet mechanism will freeze up and the E brake will not work. The pads will wear down and the pedal will get lower and lower as the adjustment is gone.
Don't forget to release the e brake either. The rear brakes will get very hot and the pads will wear down. I've done this at least a dozen times haha
That's it in a nut sack.
I disassembled both sides.
While both calipers are marked "R", the parking brake brackets are handed "L" and "R".
So what I need is an additional set of "R" brackets.
But where since I don't know what car the calipers came from?
Can anybody identify them so I can source them?
How do I fix this rear disc brake problem?
I'm having some braking problems and then I discovered this (I did not build this car).
Left rear
Right rear
It looks like the calipers are oriented correctly, but the parking brake cables on the right rear are working "backwards" and will never keep the pads adjusted. I believe these are Caddy calipers, but I'm not certain (diff is a Chevy Nova 10-bolt). It seems that I just need a set of parking cable brackets like the ones on the left rear, but I'm not sure what to get.
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Home > News & Events > Events Calendar > The Art of the Nuclear Deal: When to Use Carrots and Sticks in Nuclear Nonproliferation
This presentation examines how coercive threats and sanctions ("sticks") on the one hand, and offers of positive inducements ("carrots") affect the decision making of states with nuclear weapons aspirations. In many past cases US counter-proliferation efforts, including with Iran and North Korea, US decision makers have thus far judged preventive military force too costly or risky. They have instead typically relied on other means to try to convince the proliferating state to change its behavior: coercive instruments such as economic sanctions and diplomatic isolation, and offers of positive inducements such as improved relations and technology transfers. Although there are heated debates in policy circles over the relative merits of sticks and carrots as policy instruments (as well as their use in tandem), there has been little scholarly research to help resolve these debates. In fact, there are a number of reasons to believe that positive inducements are underused, and in many circumstances are a more promising policy tool than sanctions. Not only can positive inducements be effective in the absence of negative sanctions, but sanctions can undermine their efficacy. To illustrate, Libya's 2003 decision to turn over its nuclear program is considered. The implications of these findings for US policy toward Iran's nuclear program are also considered.


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Bathroom Storage
Bathrooms never have enough storage or shelf space. Where do you display knickknacks, let alone store unsightly items like extra toilet paper, blow dryers, curling irons, and cans, soaps and bottles? Once you've filled up the vanity, how do you squeeze more storage into a small bathroom?
Three solutions:
1. Upsize existing storage space by replacing that tiny medicine cabinet or mirror with a larger, surface-mounted cabinet.
2. Utilize the space you have by adding glass shelving to the "dead" space over the toilet.
3. Steal space from an adjoining room or closet by insetting kitchen pantry cabinets (or tall utility cabinets) into the wall.
Installing a new medicine cabinet and shelving is easy and fast. Each project takes less than an hour. For these simple projects, you'll only need a screw gun and a 2-ft. level. We'll show you a foolproof way to solidly support the cabinets no matter what type of wall you have.
The flush-mounted pantry cabinets are more challenging because you have to cut into the wall and steal space from a neighboring room or closet. But don't worry. Our step-by-step photos will walk you through the cutting and fitting.
You'll need a drywall saw, a few 8-ft. 2x4s for cribbing (Photo 10) and a table and miter saw for trimming out the pantry cabinets. You can install the cabinets in one day, but allow another day for walling in the cabinet backs in the room or closet behind the bathroom.
Buying the Cabinets
You can find a wide variety of medicine cabinets and shelves at home centers and kitchen and bath specialty stores. When sizing a medicine cabinet, measure the space you have available behind your sink, both height and width. Keep a few inches away from existing light fixtures (unless you want to move them). Buy a cabinet that fits within those dimensions.
When sizing the larger kitchen pantry cabinet(s) to recess into the wall, look for 7-ft. tall, 15-in. wide cabinets to fit between the wall studs. If they're not in stock, you'll need to special-order them. We ordered the medicine cabinet and the pantry cabinets from the same company so the styles would match. Special-ordering also allows you a wider style selection. Expect to pay a minimum of $200 for a barebones, 7-ft. tall pantry cabinet or up to $1,500 for an upscale cherry unit with fluted glass doors like we show.
If you plan on storing linens, towels or larger items, you'll be happiest with 24-in. deep cabinets, but if the closet they project into is less than 24 in. deep, go with the 12-in. units or cut down the 24-in. ones. When you order your pantry cabinets, also order three matching, prefinished 8-ft. long, 1/4-in. x 2-in. mullion strips for trim around the outside (Photo 19). Also order an 8-ft. long, 3/4-in. x 2-in. filler strip to join the cabinets in the center (Photos 16 and 17). If you're buying unfinished cabinets, get unfinished boards of the same wood type in the millwork area at the store.
Project 1: A Bigger medicine cabinet
Photo 1: Attach a ledger board and mark the stud locations
Mark the height of the bottom of the cabinet and draw a line with a 2-ft. level. Find the studs by probing with a nail and mark the stud positions above the level line. Screw a temporary 1x2 ledger board through the drywall into the studs. Mark the center of the sink on the ledger, and then measure over from the center mark to the left and right studs.
Surface-mounting a large medicine cabinet is simply a matter of centering it, leveling it and screwing it to the wall studs.
Your old cabinet may be surface-mounted or recessed into the wall cavity between the framing. Remove a recessed unit simply by opening the door, backing out the screws in the side of the cabinet and pulling it out of the recess. You may need to cut around it with a utility knife if it's caulked or painted in around the edges.
Have a helper support surface-mounted cabinets while you back out the screws, or if you're alone, screw a temporary 1x2 support ledger under the cabinet as we show in Photo 1 to hold it while you unscrew it from the wall. You may need to move or replace the lighting beside or above the old cabinet. Now's the time to do it.
Hold the new medicine cabinet against the wall and adjust it up and down until the height is a good compromise for your family members, then mark the bottom and set the cabinet aside. Use the mark to draw a level line for positioning the 1x2 ledger (Photo 1). Then follow the photo series for installation details.
Project 2: Glass shelves
Photo 4: Mark the shelf bracket locations
Apply a strip of 2-in. wide masking tape above the center of the toilet and on both sides where the shelf brackets will be mounted. Draw a center line with a level and mark the heights of the shelves on the center tape. Transfer the heights to the bracket tape with a 2-ft. level. Then measure from the center line to mark the exact left and right locations for the brackets.
Most bathrooms have one space you can count on for additional storage, and that's over the toilet. Open glass shelving is a great place to display decorative bathroom bottles or knickknacks.
There are zillions of glass shelving systems on the market. Follow the directions that come with the system for the installation details, but read on for help anchoring them to the wall because you probably won't have studs exactly where you need them. We used masking tape to avoid marking the walls.
Project 3: Built-in pantry cabinets
Photo 8: Cut out the closet drywall
Remove the closet rod and shelf from the closet behind the bathroom wall. Cut a rough inspection hole, then check for electrical cables by peering down into the stud spaces with a flashlight. Cut horizontally between the studs 2 to 3 in. from the ceiling and the baseboard. Then cut out drywall using the studs as a guide.
Photo 9: Prepare the framing.
Draw a line along the studs on the backside of the drywall, and then use a 2-lb. maul to pound the side studs over until each opening is 15-1/2 in. wide. Use the line as a guide to tell when the stud has moved about 1 in. Pound mostly at the very top and bottom of the stud to slide it along the plates. Smaller taps between the top and bottom will loosen the grip of drywall screws or nails. Toe-screw the studs to the plates with 3-in. screws and cut off the overhanging drywall edge.
Photo 10: Install the cribbing.
Subtract 5 in. from the depth of the cabinets and draw lines on the floor to mark the cabinet backs. Use the lines to position the bottom row of 2x4 cribbing. Center the middle 2x4 over the center stud so it supports both cabinets. Position the outside 2x4s even with the side studs. Overlap the rows at the corners and nail them together with 10d nails.
Photo 11: Mark the cabinet dimensions on the wall.
Draw level lines on the backside of the bathroom drywall to mark the top and bottom of the cabinet face. (Base your layout on the cabinet face frame. The recessed toe-kick does not protrude into the bathroom.) Poke a drywall saw through the drywall to mark the corners of each cabinet.
Most small bathrooms have a similar layout to the one we show; all of the plumbing is on one wall and the door usually swings against a blank wall. Often, there's a closet on the other side of the blank wall to steal space from. If you don't have a closet, you'll have to decide if you can give up 1 or 2 ft. of floor space in the other room and go to the trouble of framing, drywalling, taping, painting and trimming a false wall to conceal the unsightly cabinet backs.
You can either add one or two cabinets to a wall using the method we show. If you want to add more, it's better to reframe the entire wall. You'll need a full 14-1/2 in. wide stud space for each cabinet in the blank wall (that space will be expanded to 15-1/2 in. wide). It's easiest to go into the bathroom and find the studs with a stud finder to see how many 14-1/2 in. stud spaces are available.
When a bathroom backs against a closet, there are rarely electrical cables inside the wall. We show cutting an inspection hole to check for cables or other obstructions (Photo 8). You can usually reroute an electrical cable if there is one. If you have carpeting, unhook it from the tack strips and pull it and the padding back a couple of feet.
You'll have to cut them both around the cabinets (or false wall), then staple down the padding and push the carpet onto new tack strips when you're through with the project. Chop off the tack strip in front of the wall openings with a chisel and reuse it at the back of the cabinets.
Crib up the cabinets with overlapping 2x4s to establish the cabinet height (Photos 10 and 11). At a minimum, keep the bottom of the face frame 2-1/2 in. above the bathroom base trim. That way you won't have any trim or tile work to hassle with inside the bathroom. If you use shorter cabinets, adjust the height for convenience and the best appearance.
Finish the cabinets
Photo 17: Install the filler strip
Clamp the filler strip flush with the face of the cabinet frames and with the top and bottom. You may have to shim under the cabinet bases to get the tops and bottoms aligned. Then drill pilot, clearance and screwhead countersink holes and screw both cabinets to the filler strip with 2-1/2 in. screws spaced about every 12 in.
Photo 20: Finish the cabinets
Frame 2x4 stud walls directly behind the cabinets. Nail the bottom plates into the subflooring and the top plates into the ceiling framing with 10d nails. Use construction adhesive to glue any plates and studs that join surfaces that don't have underlying framing. Hang and tape the drywall and corner bead, then paint.
Finishing around the cabinet backs is optional if they're in a closet. You can build a separate wall (Photo 20) or put drywall directly against the cabinet backs. If you lay drywall against the cabinets, don't use screws or nails because they'll penetrate the cabinet backs. Instead, glue the drywall to the cabinet backs with construction adhesive and use paper-flanged corner beads that you tape on instead of nail.
To minimize taping, stand the drywall sheets upright so you won't have seams to tape. Cut the drywall to fit tightly into existing drywall at walls and the ceiling and caulk those seams with paintable caulk. That way you'll only have to tape and sand the corner beads for painting.
Sometimes a stud will bow in the center. If it bows toward the opening, push it into position and hold it there by running drywall screws through the drywall into the stud.
Check the existing doorstop to make sure the knob doesn't hit the new cabinets. If a standard stop isn't adequate, use hinge or floor-mounted stops.


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'"It's a big step for me," he said. "I'm just going to go down there and work hard and go up and down the wing, bump and grind and hopefully put the puck in a few times. My goal is just to go out there, feel 100 percent and have no regrets out there."'
Milley's goal is to make playing in the big leagues the norm
September 17, 2001 Submitted by
Via: Buffalo News


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FAIRFAX, Va. - The Richmond track & field squads turned in a number of strong showings, including a school-record performance by sophomore Grace Gibson, at Saturday's Mason Invitational in Fairfax, Va.
After equaling her own program mark in the pole vault at the Fred Hardy Invitational two weeks ago, Gibson (Virginia Beach, Va./Princess Anne) completed the feat with a new school-record jump of 3.45 meters to tie for seventh in the event.
Senior Meaghan McGovern (North Kingston, R.I./North Kingston) had another fine finish in the hammer throw, turning in a season-best toss of 55.70 meters to conclude the event as the top collegian and in second overall.
Newcomer Alli Stapleton (Commack, N.Y./Commack) would also score a second-place finish on the afternoon, clocking a personal-best time of 11:23.95 to take runner-up honors in the 3,000 Meter Steeplechase.
Senior Devin Cassels (Lewisburg, Pa./Lewisburg Area) came up just short of his school record pole vault mark set two weeks ago at the Fred Hardy Invite, leaping 4.42 meters to finish fifth in what was an especially windy afternoon for the pole vaulters in Fairfax.
In her first meet as a Spider, freshman Melanie Overall (Lake Oswego, Ore./Lake Oswego) earned a spot in finals and would finish fourth overall with her throw of 37.16 meters in the javelin. On men's javelin action, sophomore Sean Livesey (Philadelphia, Pa./Devon Preparatory School) posted a personal-best toss of 46.74 meters to lock up the ninth spot.
Also scoring a top-10 finish in Fairfax was freshman Amber Young (Pepper Pike, Ohio/Orange), who clocked a 1:05.30 to take seventh in the 400 Meter Hurdles. Sophomore Kelsey McKenna (Warwick, R.I./Warwick) crossed the line in 15.14 to take 10th in the 100 Meter Hurdles.
Running unattached for the Spiders on Saturday were sophomores Jill Prentice and Roxanne Henningson in the 5,000 Meters. Prentice prevailed in the race with a time of 17:24, while Henningson came in closely behind in 17:56 to finish fourth.
The Spiders will split up for the first time this spring next weekend when they travel to Princeton's Larry Ellis Invitational, Christopher Newport's Captain's Classic and the Mt. SAC Relays in the Los Angeles area.
Stay updated on Richmond's outdoor season and all the latest Spider Track & Field news notes right here on RichmondSpiders.com. More in-depth coverage can be found on Coach Steve Taylor's blog and by following him on Twitter as well. The Spiders also have their own Facebook page and have recently launched their own YouTube Video Channel as well.


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The soda water bottle pasteurizer shown here may have better performance than the one shown at Soda bottle pasteurizer. It may also be slightly simpler to fabricate.
The cut off base, inverted, provides a stand for the blackened pop can (or other suitable black container). The taper of the inverted base eliminates the need for tabs--the cut off top just jams down over the inverted base.
Performance might be better for three reasons. First, the stand raises the pop can so that its bottom can be illuminated. (Be sure to blacken the bottom of the pop can.) Second, raising the pop can improves its bottom insulation. Third, the air leaks are below the bottom of the pop can. Since all of the air in the bottle above the stand is hotter and lighter than outside air, this stable arrangement of cool outside and hot inside air resists air leaks. In the design of Soda bottle pasteurizer, the air leaks are above the pop can, promoting outward leakage of hot air and inward leakage of cool air.
A Possible Further Improvement
As the water in the pop can gets hot, most of the heat loss will occur from condensation of water vapor on the upper inner sloping sides of the soda bottle. We should be able to reduce the rate of heat loss from this condensation by double glazing the upper part of the soda bottle using the top portion of a second soda bottle as a hat on the first soda bottle.
The hat should accelerate the final portion of the temperature rise, or allow reaching a higher temperature (to make tea?), or allow successful pasteurization on less sunny days.


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Can I ask readers about protecting hives from the cold?Last winter (in London) we had a mild January (daily max temp around 10-12 degr cent) my colonies were very active, producing a lot of new brood. Then in the first two weeks of Febr it was sub-zero, and two thirds of my colonies died (12 out of 18).However internationally bees survive in much colder winter !
you MUST have styrofoam hives if you are ever going to keep bees alive ever.
Can I ask readers about protecting hives from the cold?[...]I have heard of hives being kept in dark sheds in cold weather...I would appreciate any suggestions from a 'colder winter' perspective!Thanks
[I did see one of 'Hedgerow Pete's' YouTube videos in which he was keeping hives in a shed covered by a duvet - seemed like quite a good idea to me (to help keep the hive from unseasonal fluctuations in winter temperature)
Hi Finsky,Can you send me the names of Poly. hive manufacturers in Scandinavia please?Thank you,OPAVP.
having looked at the climatic data for Anchorage.... there should be no difficulty in overwintering Bees in that part of Alaska. if ....
According to the historical records, Anchorage Alaska only averages 2.2C colder than where I live in mid Michigan in January. Anchorage is pretty warm compared so some places in the upper Midwest like where T Beek lives. The pacific ocean keeps coastal Alaska warmer than it should be for its latitude.
Temperatures are set to nudged a record breaking 21C from the start of next week as Britain enjoys an Indian summer - but forecasters have warned not to get used to it.The brief spell of unseasonable warmth could precede a polar plunge, bringing England's first snow of winter by Friday, according to Meteorologists.This year is already Britain's 'strangest-ever' for weather, the Centre for Ecology & Hydrology said, with the worst drought since 1976 followed by the wettest summer for a century.But the erratic climate has a few more surprises in store in the coming days, delivering a taste of three seasons in a week - as a golden autumnal weekend is being followed by summer and winter snaps.
Finski - does Finland have the same dramatic fluctuations in temperature (and weather generally) that we have here in Britain ?


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Back to Home / Disney Prom Gowns Home / Disney Forever Enchanted Gallery
My Husband and I were together 4 years when he proposed. As soon as he popped the question, my planning began! Hopefully he had some kind of idea of what he was in for; I am the epitome of a girly girl! Everything always has to be extremely girly and sparkly. I dreamed of a pink wedding with lots of sparkles!
I knew I wanted this dress before I knew I was even getting married. When I got engaged, I ordered the gold without trying anything else on, and before we set a date because I knew it was to be discontinued soon. Everyone loved my dress, and commented on how they had never seen anything like it. Our wedding date was just May 14 of this year, so I had the dress for almost a year and a half. Thank you for making such a beautiful dress.
At 42, I has always been the bridesmaid, never the bride. I always knew I would not be alone forever but firmly believed that the man made for me must not be ready, or I had something else to learn, and he would come when the time was right. One of my best friends would say "I'd love to fix you up but don't know anyone worthy", or close family friends would say "you're the type of person that when it happens, it's going to happen fast", and boy were they right.
AtImpression Bridal,
Others promised, We deliver …
We make shopping a pure pursuit of pleasure …


text: Pleat Neck Top Style: 570105558 Out of Stock Love it? Everyone else did too. This item sold out! Use our search tool, chat online or call 1.877.948.2525 to find something equally desirable. Snake chain weaves through the pleats of this solid, sophisticated tee. Slightly contoured stretch fit. Cap sleeves. Metal chain finish may vary. Fully lined. 95% rayon, 5% spandex. Hand wash. Imported. Hits at mid-hip (25.5" from shoulder). Read More… Share on Facebook Tweet Pin


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thousands of sound files
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The Nationwide Suspicious Activity Reporting (SAR) Initiative (NSI) has developed training to increase your ability to identify, report, evaluate, and share pre-incident terrorism indicators. To begin the free online SAR Training, select the link below that corresponds with your area of service.
Learn more about Nationwide SAR Initiative (NSI), visit http://nsi.ncirc.gov/default.aspx.


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Posted by David Johnson on September 26, 2011
The Politburo is making a comeback
Winston Churchill described Soviet-era politics as a riddle, wrapped in a mystery, inside an enigma. It came to mind recently as I was engaged in a conversation with an I&O professional who works for a US-based company, and he needed help. Seems his executives had decided that due to two data breaches over the past year from stolen hard drives, that the new Central Committee policy should be to have everyone use a locked down virtual desktop, no matter their role or workstyle. It was hard for me to conjure up a picture of the profound lack of understanding that led to such a misguided policy, though images of nondescript buildings, row after row of undifferentiated cubicles, and Gulag-style productivity quotas came quickly to mind. Had he not been on the other end of a telephone line, he could've knocked me over with a feather.
Big vendors are using top party relationships to push huge pork-barrel deals under the banner of security and mobility


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Rockport Music presents Jason Vieaux, classical guitar
8 PM Fri, May 10, 2013
Venue: Shalin Liu Performance Center
37 Main Street, Rockport, MA 01966Contact:
Rockport Music
0 people saved this
One of the "youngest stars of the guitar world" (New York Times), guitarist Jason Vieaux is highly acclaimed for his effortless technique and the range of color in his playing. He performs in both recitals and with symphonies around the country and serves as chair of the guitar department at the Cleveland Institute of Music. Whether it's interpreting a Bach suite, transcription of a Piazzolla tango, or jazz standard by Pat Metheny, Vieaux's virtuosic playing has been described as "spun magic," creating cinematic vistas with a single instrument. "...among the elite of today's classical guitarists." Gramophone Tickets: $34, $28, $19
What to Expect From Sail Boston 2017
The Tall Ships will soon make their way to historic Boston Harbor. Here's a look...
Search All Listings Here.


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SATAN SANDWICH: Why is Kansas City Congressman Emanuel Congressman Emanuel Cleaver getting indigestion over a sandwich?
IS NIXON A DEMOCRAT?: Why are some questioning the Missouri governor's party credentials?
CRUMBLING PIPES: More than 170 water main breaks in a month. Is it just the heat? Or a symptom of larger problems ahead?
FOOT PATROLS: For the first time in more than 30 years, police officers are again walking the streets on regular foot patrols of Kansas City neighborhoods. But what effect will they have on crime in some of the city's toughest blocks?
Eric Wesson
KC Call Newspaper
Lynn Horsley
Kansas City Star
Chris Hernandez
NBC Action News
Dave Helling
Kansas City Star


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Provo • Even after he had his fourth straight state diving title all but wrapped up on Thursday, Nathan Makarewicz kept going back to the diving board.
The West High School star went after the diving board and practiced two different dives three times apiece. Despite winning his fourth gold medal in four years, the future Princeton diver was aiming for a personal best in this year's state meet, but he fell a bit short.
"There wasn't as much pressure to win this one," he said. "But I put pressure on myself to do my best."
While he finished more than 86 points ahead of the second-place finisher, Makarewicz said he was disappointed in his two sub-par dives of the six he performed after spending the last two weeks practicing those in particular.
"Wasn't quite there," he said.
The Panther senior who carries a 4.49 weighted GPA will continue his diving career with the Ivy League Tigers next year and leaves Utah prep diving at the pinnacle of the sport he hopes evolves in popularity.
"I hope I made a mark," he said. "Hopefully this will draw a little bit of attention."
For Murray High senior Savanna Goudie, a herniated disc and a broken foot drove her toward giving diving a whirl and eventually led her to a state championship.
After being a competitive gymnast for 13 years, Goudie had to figure out another sport to fall in love with after her injuries forced her out of high-end gymnastics.
"I figured why not try diving," she said. "It's similar. I tried it, and I loved it."
On Thursday at Brigham Young, Goudie became a high school state champion in the 2013 women's state diving meet.
The Spartan had a final score of 206.40, nearly 15 full points ahead of the second-place finisher.
Although she smiled, gold medal around her neck, Goudie's transition to diving wasn't easy. She became a full-time diver two years ago and, in last year's state diving final, struggled. A fifth-place finish left a sour taste in her mouth, making Thursday's gold that much sweeter.
"It was a hard year last year," she said, "but I trained a lot harder."
That persistence paid off.
Even before she ran away from the field, Goudie said she was noticeably shaky coming into the final high school diving meet of her career.
"It was nerve-wracking, and I was scared," she said, "but I pulled through."
Gold medal in hand.
Twitter: @chriskamrani
State diving championships
Thursday, at BYU
Top six medalists
Girls' final
1. Savanna Goudie, Murray (206.40)
2. Elaina Thomas, Skyline (191.50)
3. Maci Winn, Highland (179.40)
4. Ali Kooyman, Highland (172.15)
5. Kayla Frett, Bear River (162.35)
6. Sara Hancock, Pine View (159.60)
Boys' final
1. Nathan Makarewicz, West (313.45)
2. Calvin Cook, Highland (227.35)
3. Keaton Quinn, Park City (219.30)
4. Thomas Fackrell, Brighton (182.20)
5. Clark Manwaring, Skyline (172.60)
6. Kale Winder, Snow Canyon (154.95)


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anybody know what happened to abejaruco?
We live in Spain and are interested to be involved, again, in beekeeping in the Philippines. a lot of works needs to be done and can be done. In 1987 I conducted a feasibility study for small farmers. Main purpose was to see if eg Apis cerana can be held under economical viable technics. It seems that new technics have been developed with this bee. If any one wants to share experience with cerana and I am very interested.I am also updating my list of beekeepers in the Philippines. I appreciate very much your reactions .Kind regards , Aguadulce


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User Guide, Quick Setup Guide, etc.
Optimum performance with Brother's products
Online Support for your registered products. Subscription to e-mail which includes special discount.
Go to Global Site
Visit Brother Customer Service & Showroom (03-7884 9999)
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Download your PDF guide to Langeoog
8,0 km, in Wilhelmshaven
Area of natural interest declared by UNESCO, the marshes of Cuxhaven feed millions of birds every year. It is a stopping point in their migration that has lots of food. Mollusks, worms, crabs, can be found just by searching or
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text: As we predicted in an earlier post, with the iPad announcement out of the way, the hype and rumors are really starting to accumulate around the iPhone 4G. The still rumored device will probably be announced in June during the WWDC; as has been the tradition in the past. Until then, we have to subsist on the diet of rumors … Read More


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Annapolis Food & Wine Festival
City Dock Productions
Saturday, March 10, 2012 from 12:00 PM to 6:00 PM (EST)
The Annapolis Food and Wine Festival
March 10, 2012
In Downtown Annapolis
The Chesapeake Ballroom Tasting Event
Saturday 12:00 noon-6:00 pm
The Annapolis Marriott Waterfront Hotel
80 Compromise Street
Food & Wine Tasting Seminars
Saturday 12:00 noon-6:00 pm
At The Annapolis Marriot Waterfront Hotel
No-charge, but on a first come basis
Sip and Stroll
Red Red Wine Bar 189B Main Street $5:00/person 1:00pm, 2:00pm, 3:00pm, 4:00pm, 5:00pm
Piccola Roma 200 Main Street $6:50/person 1:00pm, 2:00pm, 3:00pm, 4:00pm, 5:00pm, 6:00pm
Kilmins 128 Main Street Complimentary Chocolate-making demos at the beginning of every hour
Dining at the Chef's Table Series:
Dining at the Chef's Table lets attendees indulge in a wine-paired brunch/luncheon/dinner at the chef's table at premier City Dock restaurants. Reservations and all transactions are made between attendee and restaurant.
Cafe Normandie 185 Main Street 410-263-3382 to make reservations
Piccola Roma 200 Main Street 410-268-7898 to make reservations
7040 Bembe Beach Road, Suite 200
Annapolis, MD 21403
410 263-4012
In order to purchase these tickets in installments, you'll need an Eventbrite account. Log in or sign up for a free account to continue.


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I have been reading lots of info on beekeeping and came across the other types of hive designs other than the Lang.Would a top bar be a good hive for a beginner? I could build one for next to nothing and the cost savings is really appealing, but I was curious if they are a good hive for a beginner to start with. Or should I save my money up to get a Lang?
Okay, numbnut, how about this scenario for the simple. I'm holding in one hand a textbook on the subject and in the other a handful of bees. What pictures are in the book? Simple enough?
new beekeeper are dealing with all the anxiety that goes with handling bees. it's much easier to manipulate and examine full frames than top bars. it's easier to figure how how much, if any honey you can take. Langs are easier to move if you find you put yours in the wrong place. having the Lang equipment lends itself more easily to swarm catching...although a cardboard box will do ;)if you belong to a club and need resources, it's more likely that someone will have frames, rather than bars, of beesthere's nothing wrong with either, but for a beginner i'd lean toward the least complicated for starting out.


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The Canisius volleyball team lost in five sets to Fordham University and then fell in three sets to host West Virginia on day one of the Mountaineer Invitational on Friday. Fordham defeated the Griffs 21-25, 25-22, 26-28, 25-19, 17-15 and West Virginia won 25-11, 25-18, 25-20.
"Due to injury and disciplinary actions, we had a short bench against Fordham and that really hurt us in the close match. We weren't able to use our traditional depth to our advantage when we needed it," Canisius coach Cathy Hummel said. "West Virginia out-executed us and showed why they are a very good team.
"We have to turn the page quickly, regroup and stay focused on the process. That isn't easy right now with this tough start to the season, but it's our challenge right now to do that and find a good team chemistry and lineup to make us successful."
Fordham 3, Canisius 2
Fordham led for a majority of the first set and was up 16-12 before the Griffs chipped away at the lead. Canisius went up 21-20 on a kill from sophomore Rachel Kline. After the Rams evened the score, the Griffs won the final four points of the set, including a kill from freshman Jacklyn Malusa and blocks from seniors Roxanne Hernandez and Emily Elek as well as Kline, to take the first set.
After Fordham (2-3) took the second set, Canisius used a five-point run capped by a kill from sophomore Amy Osinski to jump out to a 10-4 lead in the third set. The Griffs extended the lead to 18-8 before Fordham came storming back with a 12-1 run to take a 20-19 lead. Fordham fought off two set points to force extra points, and then the Griffs fought off two set points to make it 26-26. The Griffs again used blocks from Kline and Hernandez to take the set and a 2-1 lead in the match.
Fordham led for a majority of the fourth set and pulled away late to force a decisive fifth set. The teams went back and forth in the fifth set, which featured 10 ties and four lead changes. The Rams took an 11-8 lead before Canisius came back by scoring the next three points, capped by a kill from Malusa, to even the score at 11-11. Fordham won the next two points but the Griffs knotted the score again, using a block from Elek and Hernandez to make it 13-13. Canisius fought off a match point and earned its own match point at 15-14, but the Rams staved off the loss and made it 15-15. Fordham won the next two points and took the match.
Senior Sydney Palka had her second double-double of the season with 24 assists and 10 digs. Elek posted 15 kills, nine digs and six blocks while Hernandez had 12 kills, a .360 attack percentage and six blocks. Osinski had four kills on seven attack attempts for the second straight match.
West Virginia 3, Canisius 0
West Virginia (5-0) took the first set by scoring 18 of the final 20 points. In the second set, the Mountaineers again broke it open midway through by scoring seven of the last 10 points to take a 2-0 lead in the match.
The third set featured 10 ties and six lead changes, and Canisius went up 14-12 after a kill from Kline. West Virginia would score the next four points and not yield the lead the rest of the match. A kill from Elek made it 20-18 but a four-point spurt gave West Virginia control of the set and eventually the match to the Mountaineers.
Kline and fellow sophomore Lauren Siebert had seven kills against West Virginia, with Kline also posting two blocks.
Canisius (0-6) concludes play at the Mountaineer Invitational on Saturday, taking on Norfolk State (10 a.m.) and Navy (2 p.m.)
Notes: The five-set match was the first match to go the distance this season for the Griffs… Canisius had 13 blocks against Fordham, the most blocks for the Griffs since they had 15 against Loyola on Oct. 28, 2012… Malusa posted 15 digs against Fordham, the second time in three matches with double-digit digs for the freshman… Junior Emily Litwin posted 34 digs on the day and has double-digit digs in five of the six matches.


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Call Us 01536 314 738
Brick shape tiles are very much part of today's ceramic fashion and this range has the flexibility to satisfy every requirement. Suitable for interior and exterior walls and floors, including pools, these mosaic tiles can be used either on their own or to create an attractive feature to complement other tiles.
These tiles are frost proof and are suitable for external floors. There are 9 sheets to 1 square metre. The size of the bricks are 50x25mm and there are 72 tiles per sheet.


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NIHSeniorHealth.gov marks 10 years as health resource for older adults
Website was early model for senior-friendly design
NIHSeniorHealth, a senior-friendly website from the National Institute on Aging and the National Library of Medicine, offers health and wellness information for older adults.
NIHSeniorHealth.gov, the premier federal health and wellness website for older adults from the NIH, celebrated its 10th anniversary in October 2013. Jointly developed by the NIA and the National Library of Medicine, NIHSeniorHealth pioneered the development of senior-friendly web design when it launched in 2003. Using NIA-funded cognitive aging and vision research along with results from focus group and usability tests, developers designed a website especially tailored to the needs of adults 60+.
According to the Pew Research Center, health information is one of the key topics that older adults search for online. By pairing authoritative health information with an easy-to-use design, NIHSeniorHealth uniquely positioned itself to serve a population increasingly interested in health issues but unfamiliar with how to access this information on the Internet.
A range of senior-friendly features has made NIHSeniorHealth particularly easy for older adults to use. Large type and high color contrast schemes help with vision issues, plain language and chunking of content facilitate comprehension, and consistent page layouts and placement of buttons and prompts make for easy navigation.
Special features on the NIHSeniorHealth website make it simple for old adults to use. For example, you can click on a button to make the type larger.
The content is geared toward the health interests of people 60 and older, too. Visitors to the site will find information on healthy aging and ways to prevent and treat aging-related diseases, as well as tips on medical care and personal safety. To accommodate the different ways older adults assimilate information, NIHSeniorHealth presents its content in a variety of formats, including background information, quizzes, videos, and frequently asked questions. NIHSeniorHealth relies on NIH's institutes and centers for its content, and to date, 16 have contributed more than 60 topics to the site.
Innovations over the years have included updates to the look and feel of the site and the development of a trainer's toolkit to help older adults learn to find additional reliable online health information on their own.
In 2012, a revitalized NIHSeniorHealth was introduced. With a new design and updated approach, the site is now enhanced, for both the novice computer user and those who over the last decade have gained some experience searching for materials online. A search function now allows users access to age-related health information from a variety of reputable websites, and a "share" button lets them more easily send information from NIHSeniorHealth to their friends and families.
Today, NIHSeniorHealth is reaching out to a broader audience to address the interests of web-savvy baby boomers looking for health information. Twice a week, Healthy Aging Tips are sent out to a growing subscriber base, and NIHSeniorHealth will soon launch its own YouTube channel, opening up many of its 150 videos to a wider audience. To stay current with the changing needs and expectations of web users, NIHSeniorHealth will incorporate more links to other government agencies on its pages and will debut new interactive features, beginning with its upcoming topic, Quitting Smoking for Older Adults.
To learn more, watch these videos about NIHSeniorHealth:
"Introducing NIHSeniorHealth" (2003)
"Introducing the Toolkit" (2007)
"Healthy Eyes Topic on NIHSeniorHealth" (2013)
"Complementary Health Approaches on NIHSeniorHealth" (2013)
Visit NIHSeniorHealth at www.nihseniorhealth.gov.


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Men's Jeans
Shop from our collection of men's jeans. All are woven for comfort, and include skinny, slim, straight and relaxed fits. The range features designs in classic indigo, black and grey alongside seasonal brights and deeper tones. Authentic Japanese selvedge features alongside finishing techniques such as stonewashing, hand-scraping and overdyeing.
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Here is a new one for me, jsut got it from a hunting buddy...Thanks Dustin!
Filet out your duck breast. Wrap them in bacon and then dredge them in pure maple syrup. Cook on the grill 3 minutes on each side!
Best tasting bird I have eaten in a while!