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|Topic Review (Newest First)
Have fun riding. 90% rider, 10% gear.
The "no-overlap" thing is an overstatement. Cambered, rockered, soft, hard, whatever. It's still a snowboard, you're still on snow/ice/pow, and you're still going down the hill. I'm not going to go into the details about the physics of rocker vs camber when carving/performing etc. You will not have any issue with the gear performance if you work to improve/change your riding.
After some riding experience, you will know what kind of gear you like.
Btw to answer some of your questions, rocker board won't track as well as camber board in a carve because several things (weight distribution, rail shape, blah blah). Also cambered board are easier to turn on, they are more slippery/skatey. Easier to turn = less effective when making a perfect carve (like carving boards).
If you are concerned with "holding a tighter line", you can ride faster, put more weight on the edge, etc. You, going from wide chamber to small rocker board, there will be differences. Ride faster and more aggressive is the solution for most problems.
Chomps, I just read your other thread where you said that your board feels catchy. Yes cambered boards are easier to catch when riding it flat. So your new rocker board, you can ride it flat and not catch. You can even spin it on flat ground without catching edge. Cambered boards = easier to catch edge = more edge contact = better tracking when carving. We're talking about at the upper most limit though. A good rider on a rocker board tracks just as well as a intermediate rider on a camber board.
Set-up/Riding Advice: New Rome Garage Rocker
My new board should be here tomorrow or Thurs. & since this will only be the second board I've owned I could use some feedback on how I plan to set it up and getting used to riding it without killing myself!
I have only ridden my cambered Arbor Roundhouse-163W, directional twin. (I have learned to ride switch ...granted it's slow & cautiously on this board.)
I have it rigged with L 2011 Cartel bindings with the straps switched out for Med. ones. +18_-12 angles. 32 ST boa boots-(slightly packed out.) in 10.5.
I have also managed my last two times out to get into & hold a few regular & switch tail presses along with some pressed front & backside spins/turns using this board (...the switch tail press are easier because of the longer nose on this board!)
The New Rome GR board is a twin rocker, 159cm (not a wide) I will be using the Med. Cartel bindings on it. Thinking about starting it off with 15-15 on the bindings. My thought is those angles might be better for riding switch and working on my butters & presses?
I have a New pair of Salomon Faction Boa's, that I've only used twice! I was thinking of getting rid of them as I didn't like the way they rode on my Arbor. They fit great, but they seem a LOT stiffer than my 32's and they have no lean in them. Unless I'm on a steeper slope, I cannot stand up from a sitting position wearing these boots as I can't get my weight & knees forward enough to leverage my way into standing.
But now I'm thinking It might be an advantage to use a stiffer, straighter boot with a rockered board? (...or is the opposite of that preferable?) I don't plan on going into the park with this board! Also, I wasn't planning on starting with much, if any fwd lean to the HB on this set-up. Not really sure about that, but I'll try them anyway.
My biggest concern is that I have been told there will be NO overlap with the riding experience of my Arbor. I pretty much knew it would ride very different, but going from a Wide Cambered board, to a ("normal?") width rocker deck,..
...What am I likely to notice as far as the differences between them in performance regarding things like turn initiation, Holding a line in tighter turns, or on steeps? Especially since I'm going from a Wide to reg. width board.
I imagined that the transition from heel to toe would be much quicker on the reg. width board, and I could possibly get surprised by that,.. (read, Face Plant!) but then again it's a rocker. So the boards contact points are slightly raised and wouldn't tend to initiate turns using the same amount of movement in my legs and knees,.. right??
Are my turns likely to feel,.. slow? ...delayed? I'm thinking it will be analogous to going from "disk brakes" to "air brakes" With air brakes on a big rig, you hit the pedal, and there is a 1-2 sec. delay in any response from the brakes! (...this can be quite unnerving the first few times you experience this!!)
Thanks for bearing with the length of this post. I know ultimately, I'm going to have to Ride It to really know how it's going to feel & react! But I would like to go into it as forewarned & prepared as I can, even if only mentally! (...biffing when I was put-putting along on greens @ only 15-18 mph was one thing, but I'm riding faster & steeper nowadays) TIA!
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Cashews Are Bad (for Me)
If you'd spent any time around me during meal times over the last year, you would know that I was a very, very finicky eater. "What do you mean you can't eat olive oil, Neely? That's ridiculous!" I know it's ridiculous. Olive oil is delicious. It brings out the Italian in any meal and what's ridiculous is that until recently it made me itch immediately upon ingestion. "What do you mean you can't eat rice, Neely? I've never heard of … Continue reading


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The Parish Focus is an opportunity for growth, challenge, study, and community with peers and faculty. Such a program is a gift of time for sufficient disengagement from the day-to-day responsibilities of ministry thereby facilitating collegiality and community and offering access and use of the total resources of Pittsburgh Theological Seminary. Through a series of two-week seminars, and the completion of an applied research project that addresses both the theory and practice of ministry, pastors and those engaged in specialized ministry are able to:
- integrate experience,
- step back and reflect in new ways,
- examine and deepen vocational and personal identity,
- form lasting collegial relationships, and
- develop a new level of insight, depth, and set of restorative practices.
While most candidates who elect the Parish Focus serve congregations, others with specialized ministries have found it a flexible vehicle adaptable to their own situations. These have included denominational posts, ecumenical agencies, prison work, and various school ministries. Involvement of the local congregation or agency is a necessary and valuable component of the Doctor of Ministry Program in ongoing course work and in the design and implementation of a Final Project.
Applications are accepted on a continual basis. Apply now to reserve your space in the next group. Focus groups meet in Pittsburgh, Pa.; Phoenix, Ariz.; St. Petersburg, Fla., and Charleston, S.C.
Parish Focus - Begins June 2017
For more information, please contact the Doctor of Ministry Office:
616 North Highland Avenue
Pittsburgh, PA 15206


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The Red Raiders (8-5) got their third straight bowl win to wrap up a month that began with coach Tommy Tuberville's abrupt departure for the job at Cincinnati. Texas Tech has hired Kliff Kingsbury to replace him, but interim coach Chris Thomsen led the team against Minnesota (6-7). Kingsbury was at the game, watching from a suite.
Doege threw for 271 yards and a touchdown and ran for another score in front of a crowd that included 1977 Heisman Trophy winner Earl Campbell and former Tech coach Spike Dykes.
Philip Nelson threw for 138 yards and two scores for the Gophers, who were in a bowl game for the first time since 2009.
The Red Raiders returned to a bowl after having their 18-season bowl streak snapped last year.
A 1-yard touchdown pass from Nelson to Drew Goodger gave Minnesota a 31-24 lead early in the fourth quarter.
Texas Tech led 24-17 at halftime, but couldn't do anything offensively in the second half until the last couple of minutes. It was an ugly game for the Red Raiders, who had 13 penalties for 135 yards and lost the tight end Jace Amaro when he was ejected for throwing a punch.
Jakeem Grant ran for what was initially ruled a touchdown for Tech late in the third quarter. Amaro threw a punch at Derrick Wells in the end zone on the play and was ejected.
After the penalty, the play was reviewed and overturned. Doege threw an incomplete pass before Tech made a 32-yard field goal. But the Red Raiders had a false start penalty on the play and had to kick again and this time the Gophers blocked it.
Nelson threw a 17-yard touchdown pass to Devin Crawford-Tufts, who was left uncovered in the end zone, to tie it at 24 early in the third quarter.
Donnell Kirkwood scored on a 3-yard run to leave Minnesota up 17-14 early in the second quarter.
Texas Tech had a first-and-goal at the Minnesota 2 after a pass-interference call on the Gophers. But Texas Tech had to settle for a field goal after a rush for a 3-yard loss and two penalties.
Minnesota's next drive started out well before turning ugly. The Gophers had made two first downs before Gray was sacked for a loss of seven yards. Kirkwood ran for 17 yards on the next play, but Minnesota received two 15-yard penalties on the play, one for a personal foul on lineman Zac Epping, to make it second-and-42. Epping received a second personal foul penalty on the next play to bring up third-and-49.
Christian Eldred shanked the punt, giving Texas Tech the ball at the Minnesota 42.
The Red Raiders capitalized on their great field position when Doege spun away from a defender in the backfield and leaped over another Gopher near the goal line on a 4-yard touchdown run. Tech converted a fourth-and-6 play on that drive, and led 24-17 at halftime.
Minnesota's Rodrick Williams Jr. scored on a 2-yard run to give the Gophers a 10-7 lead in the first quarter.
Doege lost his helmet on a 5-yard scramble on Tech's next drive and had to go out for one play. He was replaced by Michael Brewer, who found Derreck Edwards for a 13-yard touchdown pass to give the Red Raiders a 14-10 lead.
Minnesota's Troy Stoudermire returned the opening kickoff 26 yards to break the NCAA record for career kickoff return yards. He finished the game with 111 yards to push his total to 3,615.
The Gophers ended that drive with a 41-yard field goal to make it 3-0.
Texas Tech's Grant returned the ensuing kickoff 99 yards for a touchdown to put Texas Tech up 7-3.


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Banfield The Pet Hospital® - Jacksonville NE
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"Banfield is a convenient, affordable and wise choice for all of your Pet's healthcare needs. We take an innovative and caring approach to healthcare that enables us to consistently provide Pets with the same level of care we want for ourselves. In keeping with our commitment to quality, each Banfield hospital is a full-service care facility – with the equipment, expertise and resources necessary to perform virtually any medical procedure. Our hospitals are conveniently located adjacent to your neighborhood PetSmart® and offer Optimum Wellness Plans®, which are an affordable way to provide all of the recommended preventive care your Pet needs to live a longer, healthier life. Ask your hospital team about membership in the wellness plan that's right for you."
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This is a sneak peak at the new Turkey decoys coming from G&H DECOYS very soon.
-Life Sized
-Easily stackable
-80% full body contour
-raised feather detail
-hand painted detail with realistic colors and sheen
-stakes included and moves realistically with light gusts of wind
-durable hard impact plastic with absolute paint adhesion
There will a set of three: two hens and a tom. They will be light, stackable and come with a carrying bag and a set of stakes!
They will also come in Rio or Eastern.
If you have any questions, please call 1-800-443-3269!


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England T20 captain Stuart Broad spoke to media today about their NZ tour, commenting that they are focused on the T20 matches before looking ahead to the one-day & test matches which are to follow late Feb-March. England are to play three Twenty20 internationals, three one-day internationals and three Test matches while on tour here in NZ. The first of the three T20 internationals is at Eden Park Feb 9th.
Latest NZH Video
It's a lot of fun as well. Made with funding from NZ On Air.
British & Irish Lions assistant coach Rob Howley speaks to the media before the 1st test match between the All Blacks and the British & Irish Lions, which will be held at Eden Park on Saturday.


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Mas Elegante Blazer
Additional Information
We call this top-selling suit jacket the Cubavera Mas Elegante Blazer for a reason. Just take a look at it and you'll see for yourself. Boasting a linen blend herringbone and a single breasted, two-button cut with notched collar, you won't find a more elegant looking blazer anywhere. And with colors like Bright White, Jet Black and Natural Linen, you've got options for any occasion.
- 55% Linen/45% Rayon
- Herringbone Fabrication
- Single Breasted 2-Button Blazer
- Notched Collar
- Dry Clean Only
- Imported


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About ECRI
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Press Release – 21.02.2012
Ukrainian version
Council of Europe's Anti-Racism Commission publishes new report on Ukraine
Strasbourg, 21.02.2012 – The European Commission against Racism and Intolerance (ECRI) today published a new report on Ukraine. ECRI's Chair ad interim, François Sant'Angelo, said that, while there have been some improvements, there are still concerns in most areas covered by the Commission's mandate.
Thus, although the Government has drawn up plans of action against xenophobia and racial and ethnic discrimination, the disbanding of the State Committee for Nationalities and Religion has left a vacuum in this connection. The country has no comprehensive anti-discrimination legislation. Moreover, despite the authorities' intention to strengthen the legislation on asylum, the refugee-status determination procedures have been frozen on several occasions.
Admittedly, there are less racist attacks. However, the problem is far from resolved. Hate speech is often left untackled, although the number of antisemitic publications has dropped. The authorities are, of course, aware of the need to deal with neo-Nazi and skinhead football fans. Nevertheless, the Ministry of the Interior has abandoned its efforts to monitor racist incidents and groups systematically. Moreover, the extent of the problem is masked because perpetrators of hate crime tend to be prosecuted as hooligans.
The situation of Crimean Tartars has not improved. Neither has that of Roma, many of whom lack identity documents, despite some municipalities' efforts to promote their social inclusion. Police misconduct against this and other vulnerable groups, such as migrants and asylum-seekers, is also frequently reported.
In its report, ECRI has made a number of recommendations, among which the following three require priority implementation and will be revisited in two years' time:
The report is available here. It was prepared following ECRI's contact visit to Ukraine in April 2011 [press release – 12.04.2011] and takes account of developments up to June 2011.
ECRI is a human rights body of the Council of Europe, composed of independent experts, which monitors problems of racism, discrimination on grounds of ethnic origin, colour, citizenship, religion and language, as well as xenophobia, antisemitism and intolerance, prepares reports and issues recommendations to member States.
For more information on ECRI: www.coe.int/ecri
Press contact: Stefano Valenti, Tel: +33 (0)3 90 21 43 28, email@example.com


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Heads Cam Intake Throttle Body Install Writeup
This Heads / Cam / Intake / Throttle Body install writeup is for an LS6 CTS-V 2004 & 2005. LS2 CTS-V's will be similar and most of this can be used, but some of the part numbers might change. Also, GM part numbers get superseded often, so some of the part numbers will change over time. I'm writing this Sept of 2012.
In the middle of my install my phone decided to be a bitch and quit working, so I lost some of the pics towards the end, but luckily I had downloaded the bulk of them before it decided to die. Anyways…..
Tools you'll need:
Sockets: 8mm, 10mm, 13mm, 15mm, 18mm, 19mm
24mm socket (Balancer Bolt)
Wrenches: same as above. Gear wrenches help a lot
5/8" Deep Well Spark Plug Socket
Breaker Bar
Torque Wrench (Ft. Lbs)
Torque Wrench (Inch Lbs)
Screwdrivers (Flathead and Phillips)
3 Jaw Pulley (3 Ton)
8mm Allen Wrench/Socket
5 gallon Bucket to catch Coolant
If you use ARP head studs 1/2" Deep 12pt Socket, 3/8" Deep 12pt Socket
3/8" white plastic fuel line removal tool
Heads of Choice (I used AFR 215 massaged by Tony Mamo)
Cam of Choice (I used Comp Cam 227/231 114LSA)
FAST 102 Intake (I used one massaged by Tony Mamo)
TB of Choice (I used Nick Williams 102mm)
LS2 Timing Chain (I used Rollmaster #CS1180)
Pushrods (I used Manton)
Lifters (I used LS7's)
Melling Oil Pump #10296 w/ optional spring
Yella Terra 6645 LS 1.7 Rockers
Fastenal Bolt (for balancer install) #40768 (M16 -2.0 pitch x 120mm long)
Spark Plug I used good 'ol AC Delco #
Or NGK TR55
Casper LS6 to LS2 wiring harness adapter
7 quarts 5-30 Mobil 1 / Oil Filter
ARP LS6 Head Stud Kit # 234-4317
Or New OEM stock head bolts #
Head Gaskets # 12498544
Or Aftermarket Head Gaskets of choice (I used Cometic 4.160 Bore .040)
Timing Cover Gasket # 12633904
Front Engine Seal # 12585673
Valve Cover Gaskets # 12560696
Or I used Yella Terra taller valve cover gaskets #YT5132
Balancer Bolt # 12557752
Intake Manifold Gaskets (8)# 12533587
Oil Pump Oring # 12557752 (if you don't use Melling oil pump / it comes with oring)
Water Pump Gaskets #
Exhaust Manifold Gaskets # (I've always used GM gaskets since day one, and never had any problems with them sealing)
Misc Needed:
Blue Loctite
Brakleen (3 cans)
RTV Gasket Maker (black)
(2) Gallons of Dexcool Coolant
Anti-Seize Lubricant
Oil Catch Can (I used Elite Engineering)
(2) New Header to catback gaskets
(2) Knock Sensors # (I didn't replace mine)
(2) AC Condenser Orings # 25740416 (if you remove condenser)
(12) Header/ Exhaust Manifold Bolts #
LS2 Fuel Rail
Lower Temp T-Stat (I used 160 degree)
Here's a pic of the Comp Cam, Nick Willaims Throttle Body, Yella Terra Rockers, Rollmaster LS2 Timing Chain, Bosch 36 lb. Injectors, Casper LS6 to LS2 wiring harness adapter….and some Simple Green
Cathedral Ports (all ported and machined)
AFR Heads:
Yella Terra Rockers:
Re: Heads Cam Intake Throttle Body Install Writeup
FAST 102 (before I painted it silver):
There really isn't a set way to take everything off. I'll give you the way I took everything off in order (if my memory serves correctly)
Alright, let's get started.
Turn the wheels in and remove the inner plastic liners by removing the plastic pins since removing the front bumper is going to happen. Do this before you run your V up on ramps since you can't turn the wheels after it's up on ramps.
Here's a great link for removing your bumper:
We need to get it in the air so we can get underneath it to get the plastic guard covering the radiator, change the oil, remove the coolant, lower the oil pan, etc.
Disconnect the battery.
Drain the oil and remove the oil filter.
Radiator Removal:
Once the plastic guard is off, take the lower radiator hose clamp off and pull the lower radiator hose off until the coolant starts to flow into your 5 gallon bucket, or container. There's no petcock on the radiator (retarded design) so this is your only option. Empty entirely.
Here's a pic of the radiator brackets removed (10mm), and the upper radiator hose removed:
The fans can be removed, or lifted out with the radiator. Either way, you need to unplug the electrical connection for the fans, and remove the small pain in the ass Phillips screw along the AC line:
Now, you can either choose to try and bend the A/C condenser out of the way, or remove it like I did. It makes for a TON of extra room. This of course means you would have to get your A/C refilled. If you want to take the condenser out, here's the two connections:
BTW: Those two AC bracket orings are # 25740416 and they tighten to 48 inch lbs. Don't over
tighten them and break them like I did the first time.
Remove the Strut Tower bar. There are 4 bolts (18mm)
Remove the engine cover, or your fuel rail covers.
Unplug the spark plug wires from the coils. Unclip and remove the coil packs off of the valve covers. Those bolts are 10mm and a deep socket helps a lot here since the bolts are sort of studded.
Throttle Body Removal:
Remove the 3 (10mm) Throttle Body bolts, the vent hose and the coolant lines.
Release the pressure on the tensioner pulley (15mm) by turning the pulley to the right (tightening) and pull the belt off from underneath the water pump and remove it. There's another belt on the lower left balancer to AC unit. There's another tensioner pulley on the lower left that will allow you to remove that belt as well.
Once you take that smaller belt off, remove that tensioner pulley bolt (15mm) because it gives you some more room later.
Re: Heads Cam Intake Throttle Body Install Writeup
Here's a pic of the belt routing for reference:
You need to remove this pulley in order to get the water pump off. Here's a pic of it with the bolt in it:
Water Pump Removal:
There are the two smaller hoses on the left side that the clamps/hoses need removed. The lower hose that holds the T-stat can be removed, or you can just pull the water pump out with it attached still (up to you). The upper hose port is seen in the pic which attaches to the upper radiator connection. I left that hose connected to the radiator.
Here are the 6 bolt (10mm) locations:
Optional: Remove the two bolts (10mm) that house the t-stat. When you put the new t-stat in, make sure you clock the gasket so that the one tiny nipple sits in the groove of the t-stat housing. Sorry I didn't snap a pic, but you'll see it when you are in there.
Power Steering Pump Removal:
3 (15mm) bolts hold the power steering pump bracket.
The hidden bolt on the bottom:
Now you can do one of two things. You can either remove the 3 bolts that hold the pump to the bracket:
You can pull the pulley off of the pump itself (this is the route I took)
You'll need a power steering pulley puller.
Here's how it looks installed onto the power steering pump:
Once you remove the bolts the bracket will come off. I sat a rag underneath the power steering pump to hold the weight and rested it on the block. This way you don't have to disconnect any PS lines and risk getting fluid all over your alternator and killing it.
Re: Heads Cam Intake Throttle Body Install Writeup
Balancer Removal:
First off, make sure the Transmission in in FOURTH GEAR. This is the 1:1 ratio gear in the V's. Grab your big extension and remove the old balancer bolt. Some people have had trouble with flywheel slipping, but I didn't have any trouble at all. I think the back wheels being on the ground obviously helped, and my stage 3 clutch grips like crazy. If for some reason you have trouble with slippage, you can jam an extension into the Flywheel teeth to hold the flywheel from turning.
Now in the GM tech .pdf directions for this part that I saw, it says to mark the balancer and crank. This is done to avoid extra vibrations from the balancer being clocked wrong. (just like your driveshaft causing vibes if it's not indexed correctly)
So I took a punch, and made two tiny marks:
Now insert your new longer bolt. Here's the one I got from Fastenal that worked like a charm:
Again, it's a M16 -2.0 pitch x 120mm long bolt. It wasn't fully threaded, but it still worked perfectly.
Thread it in pretty far, and grab your 3 ton 3 jaw puller. The jaws go on the INSIDE of the pulley. There are 3 sections cut out for the jaws to grab onto.
Crank away on the puller and you should start seeing the balancer come off. I was lucky to have a good 3 jaw puller from my buddy's shop. I wouldn't recommend borrowing one from AutoZone or Advance Auto. Rent one from Napa or somewhere reputable. There's no reason to put yourself through hell using a piece of crap puller. Once the pulley is removed set it aside.
Timing Chain Cover Removal:
Now that the water pump is removed, and the power steering pump bracket is out of the way you'll see the timing chain cover exposed. There are 8 bolts (10mm) along the sides and top. There are 2 (10mm) bolts that go into the oil pan. Remove all of these bolts and pull off the timing chain cover.
This will expose the cam gear and oil pump.
Re: Heads Cam Intake Throttle Body Install Writeup
Oil Pan Lowering:
Now it's time to lower the oil pan. You aren't going to remove the pan from the car, but you are going to lower it as low as possible. That means, you are going to remove all the bolts.
This has to be done in order to gain access to the oil pump pickup tube bolt/oring.
The dipstick tube is going to have to come out first. Remove the dipstick tube bolt (15mm) and pull up on the tube and it'll pop out. Note the location of this. It's in between the 2nd and 3rd exhaust runner on the passenger side. It has as slight angle to it so note that when removing so you know how to put it back in upon install.
There are lots of bolts around the pan and some of them are a tad difficult to get to. This is where bendy extensions, and some gear wrenches come into play. Sorry no pics. But if you are in it this far, you are no dummy and can figure it out The ABS module lines are in the way of the front few bolts, so you'll need to slightly bend around them in order to get to them.
Once all the bolts are out, the pan should fall down. If it doesn't just hit on the side of the pan with your palm and it should pop down. Once it's lowered, take a rag and clean off as much oil as you can off the surface. DO NOT remove the gasket material around the surface, just clean the oil off.
Cam Gear Removal:
Remove the 2 (10mm) bolts that hold the timing chain guide (black thing in pics) in place, and remove the guide.
Remove the 3 (10mm) bolts from the Cam Gear and remove the Cam Gear. The timing chain will still be attached to the oil pump, so you can let it hang down into the pan for now.
Oil Pump Pickup Tube Bolt Removal:
Now that the pan is loosened up, we can get after that oil pump pickup tube bolt (10mm)
This is where you need to have to focus, but have some patience. Stuff a rag into the oil pan opening so nothing falls in the oil pan, or you'll be screwed. Once you have the rags in place, the oil pump pickup tube bolt can be reached with a 10mm Gear Wrench. I took the pic without a rag stuffed in yet, but you are going to stuff the rags in there!
*** When I loosened up the bolt with the gear wrench, I then took two fingers and slowly loosened up the bolt the rest of the way so that I had a good grip on it so it wouldn't fall. Some have placed dental floss around the bolt so they could snag it if it fell (then snipped the floss off after) but if you placed the rags in the oil pan opening, you shouldn't have much trouble. You will be just fine if you remain patient, and TAKE YOUR TIME***
Pull the tube down from the pump and separate it. You can see this magic oring that everyone is always talking about now.
Oil Pump Removal:
Now you can remove the 4 (10mm) bolts from oil pump and take it off the crank snout.
Here's a pic with it removed.
You'll see the Cam Retaining Plate there, now remove those 4 (10mm) bolts.
Here's a pic of the Retainer Plate (left) Cam gear, Timing Chain Guide, and oil pump gear.
Once that is removed, the Cam is free to come out. Thread 3 of the bolts from the water pump into the end of the cam so you have something to pull on. OR, you can reach down into a lifter hole with a long screwdriver, and pop the cam forwards.
Be careful not to just yank it out. The cam has many lobes and this is one time in your life where you don't want to be a caveman and just bang away lol. Finesse it out by slowly turning it back and forth and ease it out. Keep it perfectly straight while removing it or it'll catch the lobes.
Here's what you'll be looking at after the cam is removed:
Re: Heads Cam Intake Throttle Body Install Writeup
Header / Exhaust Manifold Removal:
Get under the car and remove the bolts that hold your headers/manifolds to your exhaust system. I put jack stands under the collectors to hold them up while I remove the header bolts from up top to take the weight off and make the bolt removal much easier.
Remove the Spark plugs wires if you haven't already. Get the spark plugs out of there as well since it'll be easier to get the headers off and out of the way without them in. Besides, who wants to break a spark plug off in the head?
Remove the 6 (13mm) bolts (gear wrench is great here) on each header/exhaust manifold and the header will now be free. I didn't completely remove the headers (but I had to remove them from the rest of the exhaust) and I let them rest on the jackstands, and moved them off to the side.
Intake Manifold Removal:
Relieve the pressure by pressing in the small valve core with a screwdriver on the front of the fuel rail (drivers side) Use a rag to catch the fuel that comes out.
Remove the curved hose that connects the TB to the Valley Cover.
Remove the fuel lines (you'll need the 3/8" white plastic fuel line removal tool) and a rag to grab all the fuel that'll come out:
Remove the Injector Clips:
Disconnect the front main fuel line to the intake:
You need to make sure the two tabs are pressed in evenly and then you'll be able to disconnect the line.
You can leave the fuel rail and injectors on if you want, but I took them off. If you do take the rail off, there will be (surprise) more fuel that comes out.
Now it's time to remove the manifold bolts. Here's a good pic of all the bolts locations:
Re: Heads Cam Intake Throttle Body Install Writeup
Valve Covers / Rockers / Pedestal / Pushrods Removal:
Remove the 4 (8mm) bolts in the middle of the valve covers. The bolts and valve cover gaskets will come off with the covers.
Now you should see the all the rockers/springs/etc.
We need to get all of the rockers, and the rocker pedestal out of there. There are 8 (8mm) bolts holding all 8 of the rockers in on each side. Remove all of them as well as the rockers themselves. You will see the rocker pedestals laying there, so remove them as well.
Now your pushrods can be seen and removed. If you don't for some reason use new pushrods, you'll want to keep them in order. Here's a pic of the pushrods, rockers, and pedestals removed and kept in order:
Now it's time to remove all the Ground Bolts holding the main wiring harness (which is constantly in the way the entire install)
Here are the locations of the ground bolts that need to be removed:
Passenger side by the battery:
Passenger side rear:
Passenger side front:
Driver's Side rear:
Don't forget to remove this sensor (19mm deep well)
***There's also an allen head plug that needs transferred over to the new heads that is right next to this sensor…don't forget! No pic, but you'll see it when you are in there***
Re: Heads Cam Intake Throttle Body Install Writeup
Head Removal:
Now time to remove the main head bolts:
The 5 upper bolts (10mm) are removed first
Now remove the 5 lower head bolts (15mm)
Then lastly, remove the 5 middle head bolts (15mm)
Now when you pull the heads off, coolant is going to come out. This is perfectly normal, just be aware. The main wire harness might get in your way, but if you've removed all the other connections, you should be able to pull the head right off. Once the heads are removed, you can pull the old head gaskets off as well. You can clean up the excess coolant up with a rag, or use compressed air with the rag over the top so it doesn't spray all over the place.
Now clean up the head surface with some brakekleen and I used a plastic ice scraper since I read that online. Both together work very well. Cleanliness is KEY!! Make sure you clean off all the debris/gasket material. Then, clean it again. You can clean the carbon buildup off the tops of the pistons the same way (I did since I was there). If you do, clean the head surfaces again.
Transfer everything over from the old heads to the new heads:
Now line up your new heads next to the old heads. Drivers side next to drivers side, Passenger Side next to Passenger side. On the LS6, there are two "coolant plugs" on the top of the heads towards the back. They look just like the coolant bypass connections, and the block the coolant from coming out. Remove those from the old heads, and transfer to the new heads. Look around each side of the old heads, and transfer any bolts, connections, coolant sensor (put Teflon tape on it) or plugs to the new heads. Don't forget that allen head plug on the front side of the drivers head either!
Lifter Tray / Lifters Removal:
Remove the lifter trays bolts (10mm, 1 per tray)
Some of the lifters will be attached to the trays and will pull out when you remove the trays themselves. Some of them will still be in the block, but most of them can be removed with your fingertips. If not, get a long extension magnet and pull them out.
You should now be finished with disassembly. Take a break, grab a few beers and marvel at how far you've stripped your car down. Maybe we should've just taken out the engine and stroked it, huh? Lol
Install new Cam:
Take the new boomstick out of the box, and brakleen all the debris off it first. I used engine assembly lube for the install that's why it's all red in the pic. The stuff is pretty nasty, but hey we aren't afraid to get dirty right? You can use motor oil if you'd rather. The 3 water pump bolts threaded into the new cam help a lot more for installing it. That way you have something to grab onto when it gets close to all the way in. This is basically the same as removal. Just ease it in back and forth making sure not to just shove it in and clank the lobes against the block and bearings. Take your time.
When you get it in, install the cam retaining plate, put some Loctite on the bolts, and tighten the 4 (10mm) bolts to 18 ft lbs.
Install new Timing Chain / Crank Gear/ Cam Gear:
OK, now it's time for the fun part….Lining up the dots on the crank gear and the Cam Gear.
Now depending on what timing chain setup you bought, your dots will look different.
Install the crank gear onto the crank snout. It's keyed, so the dots won't be lined up when you slide it on. Now install the old balancer bolt back into the crank. Now get your 15mm wrench, and turn it until it the dot points up at the 12 o'clock position.
Grab the timing chain, and drape it over the cam gear and under the teeth on the crank gear. Hold up tension on the chain and cam gear and line up the dowel pin on the cam with the extra smaller hole (not the 3 larger bolt holes) in the cam gear. Now turn the cam gear until the dot is directly facing down at the 6 o'clock position. While you turn the gear, the cam might move in and out a little bit while you are turning it to get the dot pointed downwards. If you are having trouble, you can thread one of the bolts into the cam to keep it lined up. Take your time and MAKE SURE the dots are lined up straight.
Once you've confirmed the dots are lined up, you can put some Loctite on the cam gear bolts (10mm) and tighten them down to 26 ft lb.
Re: Heads Cam Intake Throttle Body Install Writeup
Installing Oil Pump Oring / Oil Pump / Oil Pan Bolts:
It's time to reinstall the new oil pump oring. Just put the NEW oring on the pickup tube and slide it down until it seats on the dimple of the tube itself.
Since you bought a new Melling Oil pump (highly recommended) it comes with two orings. There's a green thicker oring, and a black thinner oring. Use the black one.
Now the Melling oil pump comes with two springs. The BLUE spring is for NORMAL pressure. The RED spring is for HIGH pressure. On mine, the red spring was installed. If the blue spring is in the box, you need to take your allen wrench (can't remember what size sorry) and remove the cap screw on the bottom of the oil pump and replace the spring with the BLUE spring.
Now you can slide the oil pump onto the crank gear. You'll have to turn the gear inside the oil pump to get it to line up with the crank gear. This is where you also need to insert the pickup tube back into the oil pump. Push the tube down a little bit, and get it centered with the hole in the oil pump that you are inserting it into. You won't have to force it all, just make certain it's lined up nice and won't get pinched. If you pinch it, bye bye oil pressure. Once you get it in, put Loctite on the oil pump pickup tube bolt and re-install it to 9 ft lbs.
Now re-install all the oil pan bolts except for the front two that the timing chain cover sits on (10mm) to 106 inch lbs. Put a little dab of black RTV on the corners of the oil pan where the timing chain cover rests on it. This is a common spot that has the potential to leak.
Timing Chain Cover Install:
Before you reinstall the cover, we need to replace the front engine seal on the cover itself. Smack the seal out from the back of the cover with a hammer and screwdriver. Once you get it out, put the new one around the hole on the front of the cover and put a piece of wood over it and hit the piece of wood a few times instead of the seal itself. This will save the seal, and ensure that it seats evenly. Once the seal is seated, you need to put a bead of RTV sealant along the bottom of the timing chain cover. If there was any old RTV on it, make sure you clean up the sealing surface before you install it.
Now we can put the timing chain cover back on the front of the engine. Install the cover back on the front of the engine and install all 10 bolts (10mm). But DO NOT tighten them down all the way just yet.
Crank Pulley/Balancer Install:
Now it's time to install the balancer. Put the balancer on the crank snout and thread the longer bolt that you bought, and tighten it up about a half an inch with the 15mm socket to ensure that the threads get started and the remove the longer bolt. Now put your OLD crank pulley bolt and tighten it until you can't tighten it anymore. Now grab the torque wrench and torque the bolt down to 240 lb ft lbs. Now remove the OLD bolt.
Now install your NEW crank pulley bolt by hand until it bottoms out. Now tighten the bolt until 37 ft lbs. Now here's where I took a sharpie and made a small line on the bolt. This is because the bolt needs stretched 140 degrees from where it is now. Grab your breaker bar, long pipe, and go medieval on the bolt until it goes 140 degrees from where the mark was made. Here's a pic……
Now that you have the balancer installed, the timing cover will be aligned and the timing chain cover bolts (10mm) can be tightened to 18 ft lbs. Don't forget the two oil pan bolts (10mm) up front that go through the oil pan into the timing chain cover and tighten them down to 106 inch lbs.
Re: Heads Cam Intake Throttle Body Install Writeup
Lifter Trays / Lifter Install:
First thing's first. Soak your lifters in oil until the bubbles stop popping up.
Now put the lifters into the end of the trays. They can only go in one way, so put four lifters in each tray and install them into the block. They should slide right in.
Now install the other trays. (4 lifters per tray, 4 trays total = 16 lifters) Now put Loctite on the threads of the lifter tray screws (10mm) and install them. Tighten them to 106 inch lbs. Do NOT over tighten these bolts, as you have a chance to strip them out if you do.
Cleaning the Bolt Holes
Now while the bolt holes are nice and open right there, it's time to clean them up so that your new bolts (or studs) can be installed nice and cleanly. Some people run a tap through the hole to clean them up. I've even seen people cut a slit in the old bolts and use it as sort of a tap. What I did was use brakekleen and compressed air. I filled each hole entirely with brakekleen until it ran out the holes. Doing this you can see some of the grit/grime/dirt come out with the brakeleen. I let it sit inside the hole a bit, and then taking a rag over the top (so it doesn't get all over the place) take your compressed air and spray air in the hole. You may have to do it a few times a hole, but it's worth it so the new bolts (or studs) can be installed cleanly.
Installing Heads:
Installing ARP Head Studs (Optional)
If you are using the ARP head studs, then put a dab (don't need much) of the lube that came with the studs on each of the threads. Also, put some on the bottom of each stud as well. The smaller 5/16 diameter (1/8" allen wrench) studs go in the upper 5 holes in the block. (15-13-11-12-14 the torque sequence pic below. The larger 7/16 diameter (3/16" allen wrench) studs go in the lower 10 holes (1 thru 10) in the same torque sequence pic below.
Install each stud until they BOTTOM OUT HAND TIGHT only. If any of them don't go in easily, the threads are still dirty and have gunk in them. Remove the stud and try some more brakekleen and compressed air.
Once you have all the studs in, put the head gaskets on.
I'll say it again, because it's important. Cleanliness is key. Again, make certain that the surface of the heads are pristine clean. You don't want to do this job twice because you didn't clean the surface well enough. If there's anything on the block surface, use some brakekleen and either rub off the debris, or scrape it off with your plastic ice scraper.
Now lay the new head gaskets on the block orientated correctly and one the correct side. They are not the same, and go a certain way. Make sure the word "FRONT" is towards the front bumper of the car. Depending on the brand of gasket you chose, it might also say "TOP" or "BOTTOM". You can double check and make sure no water jackets or holes are covered.
Now slide the head down over the studs and on top of the head gasket.
Install the 12 point nuts on all of the studs hand tight.
The smaller 5/16 diameter studs (the 12 point nuts are 3/8") are torqued in three equal steps
To 25 ft lbs. I did 8 ft lbs, 16 ft lbs, then 25 ft lbs.
The larger 7/16 diameter studs (the 12 point nuts are 1/2") are torqued in three equal steps
To 80 ft lbs. I did 26 ft lbs, 54 ft lbs, then 80 ft lbs.
Re: Heads Cam Intake Throttle Body Install Writeup
Installing OEM Head Bolts:
I'll say it one more time, because it's that important. Cleanliness is key. Again, make certain that the surface of the heads are pristine clean. You don't want to do this job twice because you didn't clean the surface well enough. If there's anything on the block surface, use some brake kleen and either rub off the debris, or scrape it off with your plastic ice scraper.
Now lay the new head gaskets on the block orientated correctly and one the correct side. They are not the same, and go a certain way. Make sure the word "FRONT" is towards the front bumper of the car. Depending on the brand of gasket you chose, it might also say "TOP" or "BOTTOM". You can double check and make sure no water jackets or holes are covered.
Now slide the heads onto the block surface. The short stubs on the block will hold the heads in place.
Install all bolts hand tight.
The smaller (10mm) bolts go in the top 5 holes (15-13-11-12-14 location in the torque sequence pic below)
The larger (15mm) bolts go in the lower 10 holes (1 thru 10 location in the sequence pic below)
The Torque Value and sequence for the OEM head bolts are as follows:
Step 1 (Bolts 1-10) to 22 ft lbs.
It helps to do the next part by drawing a horizontal line on the head of each 15mm bolt in order to better keep track of how far you've torqued each bolt.
Step 2 (Bolts 1-10) 90 degrees
Step 3 (Bolts 9-10) 90 degrees
Step 4 (9-10) 50 degrees
Step 5 (11-15) 22 ft lbs
Here's the torque sequence pic:
Once you are done, you should be looking at something like this:
****Once you have everything buttoned down. Take your 24mm socket and breaker bar, and turn the engine over manually. Now listen for any clanking or abnormal noises. If you hear anything out of the ordinary stop now, and figure out what went wrong.****
Figuring out Pushrod Length:
Now if you don't already know what size pushrods you need, this is where you need to figure it out.
Instead of trying to reinvent the wheel, here's a good article on Figuring out Pushrod Length
Figuring out Preload:
You'll need to bust out your dial gauge and determine Preload.
Here's a good writeup on this:
Determining Wipe Pattern:
This is a great write up on this. I used a sharpie and colored the valve stems completely.
**I had to use the shims that came with the Yella Terra rockers in order to get the rockers exactly in the center of the valve stems.**
FYI: After I measured, I ended up using 7.395 push rods. Stock are 7.400
Installing Push Rods / Pedestal / Rockers:
If you are installing stock rockers:
Now that you've figured out the pushrod length, slide all 16 pushrods into the holes that lead to the tops of the lifters.
Place the Rocker pedestal back onto the heads. Put Loctite on the threads of the rocker bolts (8mm). Also, put RTV on the tips of the bolts since you don't want coolant/water creeping through there. Tighten them down to 22 ft lbs.
Once they are all installed and torqued, turn the engine over manually by putting your 24mm socket on your breaker bar back over the balancer bolt and turn to the right. Listen for any abnormal sounds and make sure nothing is in a bind.
If you are installing Yella Terra rockers:
Here are the instructions that come with the rockers:
Re: Heads Cam Intake Throttle Body Install Writeup
double post sorry
Re: Heads Cam Intake Throttle Body Install Writeup
Valve cover / Gasket install:
When I tried to use the Yella Terra rockers with the stock valve cover gaskets, the rockers hit the valve covers. They are too tall, so I installed the taller Yella Terra gaskets and I also dremmel'ed some more material off the inside of the valve covers in order to get them to stop hitting.
If you use the stock rockers: then you can use stock valve cover gaskets. You'll have to freeze them for a bit to shrink them enough to install them onto the valve covers.
If you use Yella Terra rockers: then you'll have to use the taller YT5132 valve cover gaskets. You'll need to soak them in hot water for a bit to make them more pliable.
Also there are nuts that need to be installed onto the bottoms of the valve cover bolts.
Now you can reinstall the valve covers onto the heads. The valve cover bolts (8mm) need to be tightened hand tight.
Water Pump Install:
Put some blue Loctite on the water pump bolt threads and then reinstall your 6 (10mm) bolts hand tight through the holes in water pump and put the two new gaskets against the water pump. Make sure they line up correctly and don't cover the water jackets. Now do the first pass at 11 ft. lbs, and do another pass at 22 ft. lbs.
Once you've installed the water pump and tightened the bolts, you can put the little pulley back on the lower right of that water pump picture (above). I don't have a torque spec, but just tighten it down a little past hand tight.
Also, reinstall the smaller pulley that holds the AC belt to the balancer if you haven't already. Tighten the pulley bolt (15mm) to 22 ft lbs.
Don't forget to reconnect the two coolant lines on the passenger side that you removed earlier.
Power Steering Pump Install:
Just reverse the process of the removal. Put some blue Loctite on the threads and replace the 3 (15mm) bolts on the bracket and tighten them to 22 ft lbs. Replace the pulley (if that's the route you took) see pic from the install above.
Now you should have all pulleys installed and you can install the smaller belt around the A/C pulley to the balancer. You can also install the longer belt as well. Here again is the belt routing:
****Again, just to be entirely sure…..Take your 24mm socket and breaker bar, and turn the engine over manually. Now listen for any clanking or abnormal noises. If you hear anything out of the ordinary stop now, and figure out what went wrong.****
Re: Heads Cam Intake Throttle Body Install Writeup
Injectors/Fuel Rail:
Depending on which injectors you went with, now you can install them into the intake and fuel rail. Make sure you put a dab of oil on all the orings upon reinstalling them. If you see any of the orings damaged, replace them.
I went with a LS2 fuel rail to clear the top of Fast Intake. The rail is tall enough to clear the intake runners, but then it's too tall to hit the bolt holes that are in the intake. Here's a picture of what I mean:
You'll need to either machine some spacers, or use washers stacked on top of each other to make up the difference.
Before installing the intake manifold, tighten down all the wiring harness ground bolts to the heads and block. If there is any debris on the connectors, clean them off to ensure a good ground. All the locations are posted in pics in the removal phase.
Fast 102 Intake Manifold Install:
I don't need to re write all of the Fast 102 instructions.
That said, here's a few notes that pertain to the install: (Before you do this, change out the valley cover bolts with the bolts provided with the Fast Intake)
It says to reinstall the coolant crossover line before you put the intake on. I put the intake on first, then put the coolant crossover line on since it had to be re-bent to clear the slightly bigger Fast intake.
Here's a pic of the coolant crossover line:
Put that off to the side for now, as we will install it after the intake is on and torqued down.
Make sure your connections are as follows (looking at back of Fast 102):
The brake booster hose will stretch far enough to reach the actual brake booster but you'll need to clamp (I used hose clamp) the hose to the brake booster connection. If you don't, it will pop off.
As far as the plug, I used the stock plug and dabbed a little RTV in there to make sure it sealed up well. If yours is damaged, replace it.
Lastly, install the MAF (ours is grommet style so drill out intake with 3/8" drill bit and make certain you get all the shavings blown out) in there and tighten down the hold down screw to 19 INCH lbs.
When you have it installed, place the intake on the block (don't slide it) and connect the MAF and the brake booster hose to the back of the intake. Then pick it up and place it the rest of the way onto the valley cover and insert the 10 long intake bolts.
Here's the torque sequence for the Intake:
Use TWO passes when tightening them down. The first pass is 45 INCH lbs, and the second pass is 89 INCH lbs.
Go through the rest of the instructions, and get everything else buttoned up.
Once you get the intake bolted down, the fuel lines hooked back up to the fuel rail, and the injectors clips connected you will be looking at this:
You notice the LS6 fuel line has two brackets on it that won't match up to anything. I ended up taking a cut off wheel, and slicing them off. I doesn't look that bad, but I will most likely replace it with AN line in the future. Here's a pic of it before I cut the brackets off:
Now you can install the coolant crossover line. Just bend it a little, and then keep tweaking it until it fits into the two spots/holes on each head flush/straight up. The bolts are only torqued to 106 INCH lbs. Here's a pic of it in process of being bent and re-bent. (Disregard using the old curved vacuum hose in the pic I was still trying to make it work but it won't. Most of the time it just breaks apart upon removal anyways)
P.S. If you bought an oil catch can, now's the time to install it.
You can put the TB on with the intake, but if you leave it off for now, it will give you more room to work the radiator and fans down into the engine bay later.
Man, I'm sick of typing….but at least we are almost done!
Re: Heads Cam Intake Throttle Body Install Writeup
Header Install:
Now it's time to put the headers back on. Now since your headers are sitting on jackstands, just grab them and put one header bolt through a hole and through your gasket (make sure you put them on facing correctly as they are marked) and thread the bolt into the block. Repeat this process for all
(13mm) bolts (gear wrench is great here) until all the bolts are in at least half way.
Now reconnect the bolts to the rest of the exhaust underneath (you didn't crank all the header bolts down so you could leave yourself some play) and then you can go back up top and tighten the header bolts hand tight.
Once the header bolts are all in hand tight, go back down and tighten the headers to the rest of the exhaust, and now you can tighten the header bolts down to 18 ft lbs.
Now you can reinstall the dip stick to the oil pan. Replace the dipstick tube bolt (15mm) and push down on the tube and it'll pop back in. Remember: It's in between the 2nd and 3rd exhaust runner on the passenger side. It has as slight angle to it so if you can't get it, have someone help you guide it in from the top while you guide it back into the oil pan hole.
Radiator, Fans and A/C condenser Install:
Now you can slide the radiator and fans (as one) back down into the engine compartment. If you removed the A/C condenser, you can put that in after the radiator and fans are back in. Make sure when you do this, you are careful not to bend any of the fins on the radiator. There are two holes with rubber rings in the frame awaiting the two posts in the radiator. Line these up and it will sit nice and snug.
Reconnect the larger lower radiator hose (drivers side), the upper smaller hose (drivers side).
Reinstall the Phillips screw that holds the A/C condensor line to the fan shroud, and plug in the gray connector that plugs into the front of the fans.
Reconnect the upper larger hose to the water pump.
I lost a few pics of the radiator process, but just found this writeup by googling cts-v radiator install, which include some good pics:
Now you can use the hose from the radiator and connect it to the coolant crossover line:
Now reconnect the A/C condenser to the the front of the radiator. There are a few Phillips screws headed bolts (but use a 10mm socket) for these.
If you removed the A/C condenser, then replace the orings (part # 25740416) now, and only retighten the screws to 14 INCH lbs. If you over tighten them they will strip out.
Now reconnect the 2 black main hold down brackets at the front of the car with the 2 (10mm) screws. Tighten them a little past hand tight.
Throttle Body Install:
You could've put the TB on with the intake, but if you left it off until now, it will give you more room.
Once you've got it all on there (including the TB gasket into the Fast 102 intake, install the throttle body onto the intake with your four screws. Since the Fast 102 uses a LS2 style throttle body, make sure to clock the TB Motor to the left (passenger side) and tighten down the screws between 70-89 INCH lbs. I used 79 in/lbs.
Now you'll have to install your LS6 to LS2 TB harness. It's pretty self-explanatory here. You'll see which connectors fit into where once you are at this point.


text:
Maybe Spanish?
Looks as if its extractor is missing. On second thought, maybe not: there's something in that slot.
Its hammer (inside frame/slide) is following the slide down, rather than remaining cocked as the slide moves forward. This indicates that either the sear is broken (or has a rounded tip), or the cock notch in the hammer is broken (or rounded). Or both.
Stop using this pistol. Have it repaired by a competent gunsmith, or relegate it to relic status. It isn't safe to use.


text:
Every year, Bay Cities Refuse Service provides two free, special pickups for residents. There is a limit of one cubic yard per free pickup (this is the equivalent of 7 garbage cans or plastic bags). In 2017, the spring pickup will be May 15-19 on your regular trash pickup day. BCRS does not take metal, bricks, concrete, rocks, furniture, mattresses, large appliances and the like as these items might damage the packing mechanism on the trucks. Remember to keep recyclable yard waste separate so that it can be greencycled.
Extra trash may be placed curbside on your normal garbage day. There is an additional charge. This charge will be noted on your next bill. However, you must telephone Bay Cities Refuse Service at 415-332-3646 and request pickup the day before your normal garbage pickup day. All trash must be in returnable containers or non-returnable plastic bags. Again, they won't take metal, bricks, concrete, rocks, furniture, mattresses, large appliances and the like as these items might damage the packing mechanism on the trucks.
Debris box sizes of 7, 15, 20 and 30 cubic yards are available from Bay Cities Refuse Service. Call 415-332-3646 for prices and to schedule delivery. Bay Cities Refuse Service is the only company franchised to do this type of business in Sausalito.
Almost everything else you would like to dispose of can be handled at one or more of the dumps in the county. Tires, mattresses, appliances, furniture, metal, etc., can be disposed of by special arrangement with Bay Cities or at the San Rafael or Novato dumps. Charges vary by item, but range from $3.50 to $30 per item or cubic yard. The Novato dump is further away, but less expensive. However, Novato will not take anything toxic. See below for directions to these dump sites, what they take and their telephone numbers. Please make sure you call ahead for details if you are unsure of the disposal requirements. Refer to Where's the Dump? The Hazardous Waste Place for directions, telephone numbers and hours of operation.
Copyright © 2003- 2013 City of Sausalito
420 Litho Street, Sausalito, CA 94965
(415) 289-4100
Website Created by Vision Internet
Contact Us
Sausalito Chamber of Commerce


text:
Wow look how good all of that bacon looks...
It's BACON!
I swear, by my life and my love of it, that I will never live for the sake of another man, nor ask another man to live for mine. - Ayn Rand
Wow look how good all of that bacon looks...
"What country can preserve its liberties if its rulers are not warned from time to time that their people preserve the spirit of resistance?" -Thomas Jefferson-
"Our rights come from our humanity and may not be legislated away -- not by a vote of Congress, not by the consensus of our neighbors, not even by agreement of all Americans but one." Judge Andrew P. Napolitano
What bacon, ???
OMG,, the girl in the last pic , at the top,,,,,OMG,,,, how gorgeous is she???!!!!!! WOW!!!


text:
Wildlife Management Areas
Submitting Public Comment: Georgia Hunting Regulations
Click on this link to access information on submitting comments regarding Georgia Hunting Regulations.
Sign in Online for WMA Sign-in Hunts
Sign in for your WMA sign-in hunts online! Though we will continue to offer paper-based sign-in sheets for these WMA hunts, hunters need only to sign in online OR on site. The online sign-in does not apply to quota hunts.
The Wildlife Management Area (WMA) system encompasses more than 90 huntable tracts throughout Georgia. You will find that there is at least one WMA within an hour of you. The WMA system provides hunters nearly one million acres of huntable land at an unbeatable price. Check out the current hunting regulations for a WMA near you. We also offer a host of specialty hunts including ladies-only hunts and adult-child hunts. Learn more about WMA hunting opportunities near you.
GRANT PROPOSAL: Georgia Public Access for Wildlife Recreation: statewide grant project
Wildlife Management Areas: helping support your local economy
The primary purpose of Wildlife Management Areas (WMAs) is to support wildlife conservation in the state and allow public access to hunting, fishing and other outdoor recreational activities at the bargain price of a WMA license or a Georgia Outdoor Recreational Pass, which ranges from $3.50 for a 3-day pass to $20.00 for a year.
These areas are a great benefit to the state as a whole and the counties where they are located. WMAs are an economic engine that bring revenue to the area by drawing frequent visitation. This study paints a clear picture of the economic benefits of having Wildlife Management Areas from a state and county level.
Ranger Hotline
Report poaching and wildlife violations. You can receive a cash reward if your tip leads to an arrest—even if you wish to remain anonymous.


text:
Blount Disease
Article Translations: (Spanish)
Blount disease is a growth problem that causes the bones of the lower leg to curve outward. In younger kids both legs are often affected, but in teens it's usually just one.
Blount disease is different from bowleggedness, which often affects babies and toddlers. Babies' legs are naturally bowed at birth from being in the small space of the womb. The legs usually straighten out when babies start walking. But in a child with Blount disease, the curve only worsens without treatment. That's why early diagnosis is important.
Understanding Blount Disease
To understand Blount disease, it helps to know about the fibula and the tibia — the two bones that make up the lower leg. The fibula is the thinner bone on the outside of the leg (same side as the pinky toe). The larger bone, the tibia (or shinbone), is on the inside of the leg (same side as the big toe).
Kids and teens have a growth plate made of cartilage at the top of the tibia. The growth plate makes bone grow longer by making new bone material. Sometimes, though, when a lot of pressure is put on the growth plate, the bone might not grow normally. The inner part gets squeezed together and may even stop making new bone, while the outer part continues to grow normally. This uneven bone growth causes the tibia to bend outward instead of grow straight. (Need a visual? Take a coffee stirrer and hold it upright — now push down gently from the top. See the bend?)
Risks Factors
Most kids who get Blount disease are overweight or obese or have rapidly gained weight. It's also more common in girls, people of African heritage, kids who started walking at an early age, and those with a family member who had it.
Signs and Symptoms
The most obvious symptom of Blount disease is a bowing of the leg below the knee. In young kids, it's usually not painful, though it can affect the way they walk. For preteens and teens, Blount disease may cause pain that that gets worse.
A curved tibia also can cause other problems. For example, the feet can start to point inward instead of straight out (called in-toeing).
Blount disease can lead to arthritis of the knee joint and, in severe cases, trouble walking. Rarely, one leg may also become slightly shorter than the other.
If a doctor suspects Blount disease, he or she may refer your child to an orthopedic doctor (bone specialist) for leg X-rays and further examination.
Some mild bone changes can be difficult to spot in kids younger than 2, and it's often hard to tell whether a toddler has normal, age-appropriate bowing that will get better by itself or if it's Blount disease. Usually by age 3 it's easier for a doctor to make a diagnosis.
Treatment of Blount disease depends on the child's age and how curved the bone is. Kids younger than 2 might just need monitoring.
Kids between 2 and 4 years old and kids with severe bowing might require leg braces, called KAFOs (knee-ankle-foot orthotics). KAFOs, which go from the thigh to the toes, are created for kids using a mold of their leg. Over time, the braces gradually shift leg bones to a straighter position.
For older kids and teens, or kids who don't get better wearing KAFOs, other treatments are often necessary.
The surgeon can cut the bone, straighten it, and fasten it with plates and screws. Doctors call this an osteotomy.
Another procedure can slow or stop the growth of half of the growth plate to allow the other side to catch up and straighten the leg.
- A piece of equipment can be put on the outside of the leg. It holds the bones in place while gradually straightening the leg.
Whichever method the surgeon recommends, the procedure will be done under general anesthesia, which means your child will be sedated and asleep and won't feel a thing during surgery. Afterward, your child might need to wear a cast or use crutches for a while. Physical therapy also might be necessary.
Most kids who wear a brace or have a procedure for Blount disease get better and have active lives.
If being overweight was part of the cause of Blount disease, it's important for parents help their child maintain a healthy weight. This can reduce stress on the bones and joints and prevent other long-term problems from weight gain (like type 2 diabetes and heart disease).
If you need help figuring out how to get your child on the road to a healthier lifestyle that includes a balanced diet and exercise, talk to your doctor.
Note: All information is for educational purposes only. For specific medical advice, diagnoses, and treatment, consult your doctor.
© 1995-2017 KidsHealth ® All rights reserved. Images provided by iStock, Getty Images, Corbis, Veer, Science Photo Library, Science Source Images, Shutterstock, and Clipart.com


text:
How do I get rid of my cr@ppy horses if I want a drake?
I can only have one pet type and i can't throw away the horses.
How do I get rid of my cr@ppy horses if I want a drake?
I can only have one pet type and i can't throw away the horses.
u go to animal trainer and "sacrifice pet" if ur lucky u will get a pet part, if not u got rid of the unwanted pet
you can sell the horse by resetting the skills at the animal trainer. you can have at least 3 pets not there are the new fighting pets and also you can have one drake one horse or two of each but besides that you can color them and lvling them as you grind is fun and i get really giddy when my pet is about to lvl i also have a AFK pet lvl the bad thing is its lvl 7 but it is good for lvling the pet to lvl 20 and putting on another char...here is the URL if you really need itHTML Code:http://www.aeriagames.com/
you can easy buy a drake for 5k?.. or 10?:. if low lvl..i suggest u to think about pet when u are lvl low coz in this way he grow whit you.
Last Characters in MMORPGS:
×Toxic lvl 80 Champion In Tales of Pirates Crimson Sea
Maximusplus lvl 96 Crusader Ragnarok Online EURO Official server Loki
like it? made by some fans 4 me, that char its too pro.


text:
|Topic Review (Newest First)
|Waymar- I agree with you in concept, but the idea was that you were suppost to race with a standard factory boat. What they did was to take a factory boat, make a bunch of modifications to compete unfairly in an easiler class and then say, "Oh, well, we will make those modifications at the factory if someone wants them."
Giu, you are the reference...
I've never raced...yet...and my knowledge is extremely limited and superficial ... but I would think that hull shape, weight and other design features have some importance to this discussion. For this Dufour 40, they did start with the standard hull including the construction materials and workmanship (yes?). They changed the keel (fair enough). Changed the mast and sails (you have to for this kind of race). lightened the boat....It makes sense if you have the $$$ and want to race with a specific boat to boost "the brand image". Add sailing skills and a little luck and you may have a winning combination. As was mentioned by 'dog' and "sailaway', its part of marketing. Just like BMW, FIAT or HONDA in F1. This is to me a legitimate attempt and activity for a manufacturer. (this is true in all sports. Do you think World Cup Downhill skiers use the same skis and boots we buy in the ski shops?). OK so they were not as publicly forthcoming in terms of the modifications as they should have been. Is this a surprise?
On a related note, I don't know if I'll ever begin to understand (or have the patience for) things like class rules etc. There is wayyyy too much history and attention to detail for me to get a handle on it. I find it extremely confusing in trying to compare boats given the extent of the parameters. like comparing apples with (not even oranges) more like with a ham sandwich or a shoe.... But I'm learning even though I'm not sure I want to....)
Originally Posted by sailaway21
And that's about all the pleasantness I am inclined to send the Portagee's way for one day.
I would say the Portagee kept it pretty well together there, for the most part, and I commend him for it. He obviously feels that the manufacturer is playing a little fast and loose with certain details; the kind of details usually printed in very small type at the bottom of the screen in a TV commercial.
It is perhaps indicative of the sailboat market that they are able to publish such things and expect not to get called on it. They do us, and themselves, no favors by doing so. Giulietta makes a pretty convincing case. I suppose I will now have to pay more attention to his posts on Catalinas, a thought that pains me!
The Dog's reference to NASCAR, and Giu's to Formula 1, are apt. You won't find an automaker claiming that the car on the showroom floor is what you saw on TV last Sunday. They are more than happy that it looks just like it, and want you to feel like Jeff Gordon driving it, but are upfront about such details as Mr. Gordon's car is rear wheel drive and the production car is front wheel drive, and there is not an options list where you can check off rear wheel drive and an extra 500 hp.
Oftentimes the internet provides more heat than light; in this case I would think that a fair amount of light has been shed and we are lucky to have a knowledgable poster such as Giu. In the interest of full illumination, I would think it entirely appropriate for Dufour, or one of their dealers, to respond to any points they feel to be unfair.
And that's about all the pleasantness I am inclined to send the Portagee's way for one day.
Part of the problem with boats that race is that many are modified far from the "stock" configurations, that are generally bought for cruising. While some boat manufacturers may offer different configurations, the "racing" ones may be very different from those sold to the cruising market.
A good analogy is that it is kind of like NASCAR.... which uses "stock" cars... but the cars are nothing like the ones sold to the public. On the NASCAR "stock" cars—there are no stereos, no automatic transmissions, no doors that open—they're welded shut, one on seat, a rollcage... yet it is called a "stock" car. You can't go in to a car dealership and order one like this.
|From everything I've seen here, I'll have to agree with Giu. He's definitely the one who's opinion on racing matters I'd give the most weight here.
|Looks like a heavily modified boat to me, Even I can see that.
Giu...doesn't look like you need any help here. The pictures and your knowledge tell the story as it is. You may have to relinguish your "king" ass full of crap title if you keep this up!
Originally Posted by Waymar83
Yeah but the real question is: Giu did YOU race her....?........
I looked at the link Giu posted earlier with the boat specs and some photos(Tidewater Marina). Damn fine looking boat!!!!
I sailed the "standard" version of the 40 several times (was sold to Spain and I helped the Spanish guy "learn the boat, and sold him 3 mast steps I had bought in West marine) and a 44 performance here, that is doing the IRC championship.
The difference between the performance and the regular dufour is 1 knot no more no less.
I raced against the 44 (because I think its not fare to race against smaller hulls unlike many ), and as I said in my first post...
"to give you an idea, last August, I was dead downwind without spi, just genoa (on pole) and main, racing against a 44 Performance with spi, and racing crew, and I passed him, wining over 18 minutes in a 7 mile run!!"
That is 2,5 minutes per mile!!! without spi....he had spi....
I could pass him to leeward and still sail around them...and that's the 44 performance
If I pick a fight, I don't choose a smaller guy..its not fare
Yeah but the real question is: Giu did YOU race her....?........
I looked at the link Giu posted earlier with the boat specs and some photos(Tidewater Marina). Damn fine looking boat!!!!
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Re: The Fourth Horseman
Well, at least you're willing to admit you've beaten these tropes to death.
Re: Four Squared
Four colors, four sides to a square and, of course, 16 squares.
btw anyone know where to get the new shirt colors in the wrinkly photographic format?
Re: Periodic Table of the Caveman Elements (resub)
Resubbed with a few tweaks. Please revote!
Re: horses
strangely odd!
Re: Fource Grip
Darth Vader uses the Fource... I hope you enjoy it
Re: 4 o'clock tea!
i'm feelin it too much, like 6th sense style oh god why do you do this to meeee!!???
go edgar go!
Re: Four Eyed Monster
Love the design
So. Much. WIN! :-D
Re: Four Corners
Hello, I was playing with halftones and I made this. It will probably work, if not... oh well! It was fun.
Re: Four o'clock quartet
ooo nice! I love the sketchy quality!
taylertot wrote:Somehow I laughed about the fact that there's still a black guy. Should I feel racist?
Maybe, maybe not I dunno... but they DO make chocolate-flavored marshmallows.
YES! Delightfully absurd. You deserve more wins! +1
Re: Seasons
Gotta have it. I love the simple but beautiful shirts taht still make woot awesome. No offense but to many "Cute" Or joke shirts. I cant really wear a joke shirt. Its like ok, you wore it once. Would anyone tell a joke to the same person 100 times? Anyway sorry for the rant. LOVE this one!!
Re: Four Classmates
I love the details! Like slyth--er, the unaffiliated snake about to cause mayhem and the badger scarf getting chomped.
Re: The Wait
Adorable! GMV
Re: Abbey Roadblock
gina1221 wrote:Agreed. And perhaps on a lighter colored shirt - white, yellow, baby blue. Still, I think it's a pretty design so GMV!
thanks for the votes, i played with the circle of change in the seasons, and honestly just figured its been done, so i tried this approach.
SkekTek wrote:You really have a great knack of making personable concepts. Very clean!
Re: A Bard Game
Four of Shakespeare's tragic heroes (Hamlet, Othello, King Lear, and Macbeth) imagined as playing cards.
Full-size image:
Am I missing something? I don't get it... Nice job I just don't get it.
astrobat wrote:Earth puppy needs a bath!
This pwns!
Few things in life are more awesome than this shirt.
Will buy!
This makes me want to cry because it is excellent yet it reminds me of my childhood coming to an end.
Re: Tetraphobia
tetrapobia: the fear of the number four.
here's a link to a larger jpeg of the design
Here are details of each character featured. Notice that the top and bottom of the card depict the character in different states.
Here is is Hamlet, first contemplative, then in his "antic disposition:"
Here is Othello, first as a renowned general, then as the victim of jealousy.
Here is King Lear, first in majestic regalia, then reduced to a mad outcast:
And finally, Macbeth, first seeing an invisible dagger, then staring at the all-too-visible blood on his hands:
Love is not a strong enough word for how I feel about this design!!!
I like the little ship falling off the earth.
Re: DPAD-4-LIFE
4-way directional control on this 4 pronged cross of awesomesauce will always be the superior method of game control. Some say arcade sticks prove to be superior, others yet that this usurper known as "analog stick" is the true heir to the gaming throne but i say NAY, sir....NAY.
What say ye? I say we argue about it. =)
This is so weird I love it.
Re: [url=http://shirt.woot.com/Derby/Entry.aspx?id=54768]Fluffy
Loving chocolate doesn't make you a racist
Re: Forefathers and a baby
Ben Franklin uses kite when discovering Electricity
George Washington feeds baby APPLE baby food (after cutting down his fathers apple tree)
Teddy Roosevelt with a teddy bear.
Wow, this shirt is just so awesome!
Re: Gimme a four piece
Love the chickens! Nicely done.
taternuggets wrote:I tattled on you before you submitted.
I tattled on YOU last week! :P I really only subbed this to get some feedback on the design.
ieges wrote:Ben Franklin uses kite when discovering Electricity
George Washington feeds baby APPLE baby food (after cutting down his fathers apple tree)
Teddy Roosevelt with a teddy bear.
Wow, this shirt is just so awesome!
Close, except that is CHERRY food, and Washington cut down a CHERRY tree.
Nice one, radscoolian. GMV!
Re: The Four Elements
Long ago, the four nations lived together in harmony...
Re: Four for four
Yay! Love to see a classic Doctor Who reference.
Re: Four Dimensions Illustrated
This is a great concept! A little polish could have helped, but still, GMV.
Re: El Cuarto Jinete
And I beheld a rider on a pale horse... Or perhaps, a pale imitation of a horse. ;)
View All →


text: Zola Bracelet Style: 570063073 Out of Stock Love it? Everyone else did too. This item sold out! Use our search tool, chat online or call 1.888.855.4986 to find something equally desirable. A bevy of colorful beads and stones to complement your look. Stretch styling. Acrylic, ceramic, and glass. Read More… Share on Facebook Tweet Pin


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B&H Photo has the 2012 Mac mini Server on sale for $949 including free shipping plus NY sales tax only. Their price is $50 off MSRP, and it's the lowest price available for this model. B&H will include a free copy of Parallels Desktop software.
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The Club Sport & Recreational Organization program at Wittenberg University provides opportunities for students to participate in a variety of sports and recreational activities. Since students develop and organize their own organizations, they have the opportunity to demonstrate and develop their leadership and decision making skills. Students organize each club or organization under the direction of the Office of Student Involvement.
Follow Club Sports on Facebook and Twitter!
Club Sport & Recreation Organization:
- Coed Fútbol Club (Soccer)
- Wittenberg Ice Hockey
- Kayak Club
- Martial Arts Club
- The Outdoor Club
- Wittenberg Rugby Club
- Wittenberg Sailing Team
- Wittenberg Student Dance Company
- Wittenberg Swing Dance Club
- Wittenberg University Crew (Rowing)
- Wittenberg University Speleological Society (WUSS - Caving)
- Wittenberg Volleyball Club
Want to Get Involved? Fill Out our Interest Form


text:
|Topic Review (Newest First)
|EOD Guy
|Starter wiring....... "S" terminal is the energizer wire to engage the soleniod and make the starter motor spin. The "I" terminal is the "hot in start" wire that provides a full 12v to the coil with the old points system and is not needed with an HEI dizzy. The old wire to the points dizzy only had 9ish volts going to it when the key was in the run position, you need to make sure that wire has a full 12 volts in run and start positions. If it has 9ish volts you need to run a new wire from the dizzy to where the old resistance wire hooked into the ing switch and do away with the old resistance wire. If the new wire isn't providing 12v when the key is in the crank position..... simply route the wire from the "I" terminal on the starter and splice it in at the dizzy. BTW never heard of a wire from the starter going to the voltmeter or idiot light..... unless it was connected to the large battery feed terminal
Hey guys So I pulled out my dash and cleaned up the wiring quite a bit. I got rid of alot of old accessory and interior light wiring. The old lighting was pretty much gutted aside from a light under the dash that would occasionally come on. Interior lighting, cig lighter, gauges and stereo wiring..This was all ground to the same horrible corroded wire that was grounded to the rusty parking brake I replaced the ground wires and ran them to a nice clean body ground. I also charged the battery.
Fired right up!!! Voltage doesnt seem to be dropping but Ill have to keep a close eye on it. Voltage is also stable and doesnt fluctuate on any fuse block fuses or terminals. Now Im going to look into what wiring I need to get rid of that use to power the old points distributor. The guy who owned the truck before me installed an HEI but just plugged it into the points wiring. Ive seen a few threads on here about it ill check em out
You dont know how happy I was today when my starter actually cranked over and she fired right up
Still sounds like it might be charging issues, but it also sounds like you've got tons of other wiring cocerns!
The 3 wires on the starter are the main battery, and the start signal, plus the idiot light or volt meter. All three wires will be used regardless of which distributor you have, as the extra wire is going back to the alternator, or regulator to sense voltage drop.
If by chance your battery had an open cell it can and will often take out your regulator, alternator, or both. But if the same components go bad a high charge rate will take out the battery too, so no way to know which is the cause. It's best to pull your alternator and battery, and have them both tested to see which might be bad, or if both are bad.
Get all the wiring cleaned up, safe, and properly hooked up before replacing any defective components.
A few things to try:
1 - disconnect the negative terminal. Use a multimeter to measure the amperage between the disconnected cable and the negative post. Do the same with the key on and off. If you have anything more than .25 amps, you have a drain.
2 - disconnect the negative and put the battery on a charger overnight. If you test it in the morning and its below 12v, the battery is toast.
3 - If you have more than .25 amps after trying #1, leave the meter in place and pull and replace fuses one by one. If (for example) you pull the "wiper" fuse and the amperage drops significantly, you have narrowed your problem down to anything on that circuit. MUCH easier than guessing.
4 - use a known good battery and try to start it. If it doesn't start, suspect the starter. If it does start, test voltage while running. If its not above 14v, you may have a bad alternator.
I actually cant start the truck cause my starter doesnt do anything at all now. my batt is at 11.## volts with key in off position but when i put the key in the on position voltage drops fast to like 6 volts I havent tried to crank yet since my oil pressure gauge isnt connected and my wiring would get an oil bath if i cranked the engine over. when i turn it off the battery voltage slowly climbs back up. To be honest the wiring in my truck was a nightmare when i got it. right after i bought the truck i replaced a melted headlight switch wire that melted into quite a bit of the cab wiring harness. I took out old lighting and cigg lighter wiring today. I also found out that my ground for my gauge lighting and stereo was a horribly rusted connection and an old brittle wire so i replaced it and bolted the ground to some sheet metal.
Im going to keep going through the wiring and cleaning up the old corroded stuff but i also am going to draw a diagram of my engine wiring just to make sure i did it right. I added a few new things durring the engine swap so i wanna make sure i didnt wire something up to a wrong post. I added an Electric Fuel Pump, Oil Pressure Safety Switch, mallory HEI.
I read if you have an hei you dont use all starter wire terminals but my starter has all 3 terminals with wires on them.
Also I need to make sure my oil pressure safety switch is wired in right along with the electric fuel pump.
I hate wiring
First thing I'd check is the volt meter, and if you don't have one I'd get one! You need to know what the voltage is when the engine is running. It sounds like you may have alternator/regulator issues, and it may be overcharging and taking out electronic components.
Once you've got a meter or gauge on it, start the engine and see if voltage is over 14 volts. Ideally it will be 13-14 v. and if it's higher you've got either a bad regulator, or alternator.
Rarely will a battery cause a high voltage problem. It's almost always the charging circuit components.
Electrical componants getting fried!! Help!!!
Hey guys Ive been having some electrical componants mess up on me and im wondering if you guys might be able to help me sort it out. The truck is a 1974 Chevrolet C10. It has a new carbureted Vortec 5.7 that I just swapped in so all wiring to the engine has been moved to the new engine and an oil pressure safety switch was added. it has hei, starter, oil pressure safety switch, electric choke, water temp...thata all the engine wiring i think.
The other day I went to crank my engine over and the starter just clicked. I had fully charged the battery and the starter worked fine on my old engine and seemed to be working ok on this one. Maybe kinda sluggish when cranking the engine over but i just figured it was cause it didnt have shimms yet or possibly cause of the higher compression. Tried to jump power from the starter batt terminal to the one that starts it but it still just clicked.
I figured the starter just crapped out at that point and I was going to buy a new one. Well the next day I was listening to music while working on my truck and one of the speakers just got major distortion so i figured it was messed up and i put all the sound through the other speaker.....Then today I was listening to the radio in the truck. My nephew came up to me so I turned the volume down and when I went to turn it back up my other speaker wasnt working then the head unit started going off and on.
Does anybody have any suggestions as to what i should check What should I be looking for that could cause this?
I have pretty detailed pics of my truck so if you need to see how something is wired i can show you pictures
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Championships, Records & Awards Highlight 2012-13
By: Ryan Hartwig (@RyanHartwig)
GREEN BAY, Wis. (GreenBayPhoenix.com) – The Green Bay swimming and diving teams finished up another successful campaign in 2012-13, as the men's and women's squads combined to win five individual conference titles, break five school records, take home multiple awards and turn in countless standout performances.
By design, much of the teams' success came at the 2013 Horizon League Championships, held Feb. 27-March 1 at the UIC Flames Natatorium in Chicago. The women's squad finished the four-day meet in third after a tight race for the team title, while the men's squad moved up a spot to fourth place after finishing fifth in each of the last five seasons.
Perhaps the most impressive highlight of Green Bay's season was the performance of freshman Willem Poelmans (Hasselt, Belgium) at the Horizon League Championship meet. Poelmans, who did not join the Phoenix until mid-year, was selected as the Horizon League Men's Newcomer of the Year after picking up a pair of individual conference titles in record-breaking fashion. The newcomer first won the 200-yard IM on Thursday with a Horizon League and school-record time of 1:49.06, and then claimed the 400 IM in 3:52.85 on Friday while shattering another school record. Both swims were also good enough for NCAA B-cuts.
Poelmans' time of 1:49.06 in the 200 IM edged the Horizon League record of 1:49.09 set by Cleveland State's Jakub Dobies in 2010, and also shattered the 14-year-old Green Bay record of 1:52.67 set by Jens Sonntag in 1999. His 3:52.85 in the 400 IM smashed the 2003 school record of 4:02.80 previously held by Dan Brzozowski and was less than a second away from the Horizon League record of 3:52.07.
Coming off a sophomore season in which she won three Horizon League titles and broke five school records, expectations in 2012-13 were high for Kendra Rottier (Green Bay, Wis.). Fortunately for the Phoenix women, the junior was able to pick up where she left off by winning two more individual crowns and earning a runner-up finish at this year's Horizon League meet. Rottier successfully defended her titles in the 1000 freestyle (10:07.32) and 1650 freestyle (16:50.94) races, and also placed second in the 500 freestyle (4:55.80). She posted season-best times in all three events.
Sophomore Ryan Korslin (Rudolph, Wis.) was involved in a pair of record-breaking performances of his own at the Horizon League Championships, cruising to a first-place finish in the 100 breaststroke after helping the Phoenix to a second-place finish in the 200 medley relay. Korslin's 100 breast time of 54.81, which achieved an NCAA B-cut, broke the Green Bay school record of 55.11 set by Jason Askew in 2011, and the 200 medley relay time of 1:30.04 broke the previous school record of 1:31.71 (2012). Joining Korslin on the relay squad were three more underclassmen – Matt Hollub (Appleton, Wis.), Cole Hackney (Highlands Ranch, Colo.) and Ben Loeffelholz (Dubuque, Iowa).
Another relay squad -- the 400 medley -- also earned a school-record time at the Horizon League meet, as the quartet of Evan Hill (Jefferson, Wis.), Jonathan Lesniak (McHenry, Ill.), Robert Miner (Madison, Wis.) and Tyler Evans (Lodi, Wis.) finished fourth in3:19.75. It broke the 2010 mark of 3:20.56.
Senior diver Mitchell Spaeth (Fredonia, Wis.) ended his stellar career on a high note at the NCAA Zone 'D' Diving Regionals in Houston, Texas in mid-March, qualifying for finals on the 3-meter board. Spaeth posted a huge score of 309 in prelims to earn one of the 18 qualifying spots before finishing 17th overall. Spaeth's total score of 605.45 on the high board was just shy of the best Zones score in school history in the event, as Daniel Pogue recorded a 606.15 in 2012. His score and placement were also the highest of any Division I men's diver from a Wisconsin school at Zones this season.
Spaeth also earned a pair of strong finishes at the Horizon League Championship meet, taking fourth in the 3-meter (322.40) and fifth in the 1-meter (276.45). In addition, Spaeth was named Horizon League Diver of the Week on Feb. 5 after winning both boards on Senior Day against Milwaukee.
Oct. 30, 2012 marked a first for the Green Bay swimming and diving program, as the Phoenix swept the men's and women's Horizon League Swimmer of the Week awards for the first time in school history. Rottier and junior classmate Robert Miner (Madison, Wis.) both received the weekly award after winning three events apiece in victories over Wright State.
Rottier won all three of her individual events in the women's team's 177-110 domination of the Raiders at the Peter F. Dorschel Natatorium on Oct. 27. The junior won the 1000 freestyle in 10:24.65 before winning the 200 butterfly in 2:11.07 and the 500 free in 5:09.87. Miner's wins were crucial in helping the Green Bay men pick up their first dual victory of the season. He swam on the winning 200-yard medley relay in the meet's opening race, and then went on to claim the 100 (52.22) and 200 (1:56.40) butterfly events.
The Phoenix found success in regular season invitationals in 2012-13, as the men went 2-0 and the women won their lone invite. Both Green Bay squads competed at the House of Champions Invitational Nov. 30-Dec. 2 in Indianapolis, with the men's squad placing first out of five teams and the women's team topping the seven-team field. The men made the trip back to Indy for the Butler Invitational on Jan. 27, earning another first-place finish out of four teams.
Outside of the three individual school records set in 2012-13, there were also 56 other additions to Green Bay's list of top-10 all-time performers in each individual event. To view the complete list of top-10 performers, click here.
###For the latest and most up-to-date information on Green Bay Athletics and Green Bay Swimming & Diving, please visit GreenBayPhoenix.com.


text:
Follow Harriet on Twitter
About Harriet
- The Poetry Foundation's blog for poetry and related news.
- More about Harriet
- Contributors
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Posts Tagged 'Joan Retallack'
Recombinatory Enumerations April 2, 2014: I was delighted, if a bit apprehensive, when invited to blog for Harriet during Poetry Month this April. I don't really think of myself as a blogger. In fact, not at all. I'm a fairly slow [...]


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Laws, Regulations & Annotations
Property Taxes Law Guide – Revision 2017
Rules For Tax Appeals
Chapter 3. Property Taxes*
Subarticle 8. Appeals Division Review, Prehearing Conferences, and Summaries
Rule 5338
5338. Appeals Division Review.
(a) At the conclusion of the general briefing schedule under section 5337.6, the Appeals Division will review the record and determine whether the briefing on file adequately addresses all relevant factual and legal issues. If the briefing on file does not adequately address all relevant factual and legal issues, the Appeals Division may request additional briefing under section 5523.4.
(b) When the Appeals Division determines that all relevant factual and legal issues have been addressed and completes the appeals conference required by section 5338.4, the Appeals Division will notify the Chief of Board Proceedings that the petition is ready to be scheduled for an oral hearing.
(c) Upon notification from the Appeals Division that the petition is ready to be scheduled for an oral hearing, the Chief of Board Proceedings will schedule and notice an oral hearing under section 5522.6.
Note: Authority cited: Government Code sections 15606, 15640.
Reference: Government Code sections 15640, 15645; Revenue and Taxation Code sections 214, 254.6, 270, 1840.
History: 1. New section adopted 9-12-2007; effective 2-6-2008.
*Editorial change renaming subchapters to subarticles (Register 2008, No. 13).


text:
Great Railway Journeys of Australia was on show at the National Museum of Australia from 20 April to 26 August 2007 in the Nation Focus Gallery.
Since the introduction of railways to Australia more than 150 years ago, train travel has played an important role in Australian cultural life.
This exhibition explored the development of Australia's rail network and featured some of the most famous railway journeys in the country, such as the old and new Ghan, the Queenslander and the Indian Pacific.
It also featured exciting objects of Australia's railway history, from the dining setting of an early 1920s dining carriage to a model of a Southern Aurora club car.
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Dining Carriage interior
Kuranda Scenic Railway
Puffing Billy Railway


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Just a question for you Mag 10 Shooters ? What are you capable of ( pattern wise ) shooting big size shot out of a
full choked 10 ga ? If your Mag 10 has been Modified , what was done to improve its ability to shoot big steel shot ?
Thanks, 3200 man


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Windowpane Ankle Pant
Out of Stock
- Our universal fit. Eased through the hip and thigh, sits just below the waist.
- Slim, ankle-length leg.
- Zip front; center tab with double hook/bar closure and anchor button. Slant front pockets. Back welt pockets with silvertone metal logo. Hip darts.
- Unlined.
- Regular inseams: regular 27.5", short 25", long 29.5".
- Petite inseam: 25.5".