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|Topic Review (Newest First)
Exactly what SuthnCustoms said about frames but just to add a bit more.
One of the (mis-guided) arguments about preheating is that you will get the metal too hot when the heat from the weld is added but it simply does not work that way, if welded properly the base metal will be no hotter when finished than if preheat had not been used and preheating is nowhere near hot enough to damage the metal. The base metal will sink off the heat and weld temperatures will be controlled by welding rate. When done this way the weld starts out much closer to the same conditions that it will be when finished as opposed to starting out cold with not only thermal shock to both the weld and base metal to contend with but also rapid and localized expansion of the base metal. Think about what is happening when you start out welding on cold base metal, you will be inducing a difference of thousands of degrees of heat into a tiny area which is not only going to cause high stress as the hot metal tries to expand against the cold metal but this same cold metal is going to chill the weld bead much too fast. You would not quench a red hot weld bead with water would you? While the effect is not nearly as severe as quenching with water it is still happening to some degree until the base metal reaches a workable temperature. When properly preheated the metal will have already expanded over a much larger area and thermal shock to both weld and base will be minimized, the temperature differences between the weld and base will still be significant but after the base reaches about 400 or so degrees the adverse effects are reduced to the point of no longer being a problem.
BTW, it is standard procedure to preheat bulldozer parts. I spent 35 years maintaining Caterpillar mining equipment and made just about every conceivable weld on everything from D4 bulldozers to the D11's.
Car frames and most pickup trucks up to 1 ton are mild steel frames.
Pre-heating is common practice for frame welding by the professionals on mild steel frames.
The reasons why they say not to drill and weld on them is most people don't know or have the capability to do the job properly.
Drilling a hole close to the edge of a frame will cause a crack and breakage,that's why a plate welded over the area the hole is needed and drilled is the common practice for added structural strength.
I've drilled and welded on many mild steel frames ,Jeeps,trucks..rods..etc and never seen a problem,jeep and 4x4 frames are regularly modified for different spring setups regularly by hobby garage welders and do just fine and these things are abused to the EXTREME,but they always take the advice of pro's on the setup and right way to do it,prep,preheat,fish plates,,etc
|The only thing that would worry me about pre-heating a frame is that the chance to overheat it and change the carateristics of the material it self. There is a reason why they tell you not to drill or heat frames on Heavy equipment and Trucks (in my pick-up's book also). I have seen bulldozer frames (made a Cat d3 dozer from low track to a high track in a few seconds with the idler being pushed into the cab), excavator booms fail because of overheating the material and in some cases the material is greater than 2 inches thick!
Fellows look at the amp ratings on the 110 machines, you are asking for trouble trying to weld a frame with an amp rating that low without preheating first. Theoretically you could heat each joint but in addition to the extra work you would most likely run into warpage problems. The problem is the heavier metal acts as a heat sink and will chill that low amp weld bead much too fast which will result in thermal shock to both the bead and the base metal. What happens then is that even if the bead appears ok it will usually be brittle and there will be under-bead cracking.
Try this, take 2 pieces of 1/4" plate about 4" square and butt weld with the 110 machine edge to edge without any sort of preheat then try it again after heating both pieces to about 400 deg. (just too hot to touch with your bare hand). Look at the difference in the welds, that's the problem and a 110 machine simply does not have the energy available to get around this. I know there have been improvements in 110 machines but that does not make up for the fact that the total energy input available is too low to avoid the problem, those bigger coils may increase the duty cycle but they can not create energy and only have what energy is available to them to convert to welding current.
AddShoe, A 110 welder could be used to weld some areas with proper preparation and proper pre-heat but to build a frame this becomes impractical. There are some other very skilled and experienced MIG welders (weldors) here that will probably chime in soon and some of these guys will recommend not even trying small frame welds with pre-heat, I can not disagree with them as their reasoning is not only sound it is the accepted industry practice. I personally have had good success welding heavier sections with a 110 MIG using preheat and for the occasional small job I believe this to be acceptable but the extra weld prep and extra attention required really makes it impractical for something like an entire frame.
|I made my frame with my 110 Lincoln. I am not worried at all about its structural soundness. I made two passes on the welds and am willing to be guarantee mine and my family's lives on its integrity. That statement is not based on ignorance.
yes, your 110v lincoln will do what you want
The model you posted will do whatever you need it to do.
110-volt migs have come a long ways since they were first introduced in the market back in the early 80s. In the beginning, they were nothing more than a battery charger rigged with a cheap wire-feed attachment to weld and had a poor duty cycle. Todays 110 migs have heavier coil windings with larger capacitors to accommodate what they are intended to be used for. Improvements in the wire-feed attachments have also been implemented.
Miller Matic
I use a Millermatic Passport Plus with a spool gun that is wired for 110v it welds just as well as my Millermatic 252 220V. I have a magnaflux system and test welds when ever I am concerned on overhead welds and hard to reach areas. The welds from either welder are very strong and very clean. I know nothing about the cheaper welders never used one so not much more I can add to this board.
Cunningham & Hersh Hot Rods
|Three phase welder is best for building frames, but most people won't have on to much money. So 220 would be the next best thing. 110 just not good idea for car frame. I wouldn't trust my life to the 110.
|oldred are you saying it would not be a good idea to go into assembling a frame with this welder?
Those duty cycle ratings are a lot like HP ratings on compressor motors and most are optimistic to say the least! There simply is no comparing a 110V welder to a 220V and there is a heck of a lot more to it than just 1 extra minute welding time out of 10, the highest setting on most 110 machines is not really high enough to do a proper job on frame welding and the duty cycle will be a PITA. You can certainly do small frame welds with a 110 machine but this will require preheating with a torch due to the low amp setting and that makes it impractical for large jobs.
A stick welder (a DC machine) will do an excellent job on frames and with 7018 rods strength will not be an issue, HOWEVER doing this with stick requires a very different level of skill and doing it improperly could be disaster!
|20 % duty cycle just means that you can weld 2 minutes out of 10 at max rating, IIRC.
In tools/equipment such as welders, the maximum duty cycle is defined as the percentage of time in a
10 minute period that it can be operated continuously before overheating.
source wikipedia
20% duty cycle means that 2 min welding, 8 min cooling. do not turn the welder off, the fan is doing the cooling.
your 110v unit is 20% duty cycle. the 220v unit is duty cycle rated at 30%, 3 min welding, 7 min cooling.
keep what you have. not worth the $$$ to get 1 min more of welding in 10 min.
seriously, i have welder 20 min with my 20% welder @ heat 3 of 4
your welder welds 5/16" steel in a single pass.
your welder will weld thicker material in multiple passes.
you could theoretically weld 2" material with your welder. it would take for ever but you could do it...
This is the welder I have, found the pic on google images.
output range 25-135 Amps DC
welds up to 5/16" steel
20% duty cycle (any input on this factor would also be cool for the thread)
i have the lincoln weldpac 100, 110v set up for fluxcore wire. it did fine welding in my mustII crossmember and boxing the frame. you have to grind fluxcore welds to make them look right. my welder is 20% duty cycle. i bought the 110v unit for portibility.
i won't say a welder is a welder, but a lincoln weld is a lincoln welder. input voltage has nothing to do with output voltage. if you look at lincoln's 2 small mig welders the 140 & 180. the 140 is 110v in, 30 to 140 amps & 33v out. the 180 is 220v in and 30 to 180 amps & 34v out. you can weld the same stuff with either one. the higher the amperage the thicker the material that you can weld in a single pass. you can weld thick materials with a small welder by doing it in mulitple passes. more heat on most materials will warp & stress the metal. usualy multiple passes is preffered over a high heat single pass.
the 110v lincoln will weld anything you want to weld on a car or truck. yes it will weld a frame and do a fine job at it. you must live within the duty cycle of the welder. the duty cycle is rated for maximum heat, at lower heat (that you will use most of the time) the duty cycle increases.
keep your 110v unit, it will be fine. i keep mine setup for fluxcore and do not own a bottle, but i wish i had a gas setup for mig.
i do have access to a mig at my friends shop, we do production ss exhaust welding with a 180t, often welding an hr with it.
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dsaly1969 wrote:Thanks all for the great suggestions! I will be checking out the links and the Sutta study group here at Dhamma Wheel.
I'm also hoping to find some good Android apps to support my practice while I am at work (I supervise social workers in the field of child abuse and neglect investigations, interventions to address said issues, as well as working with former foster youth transitioning to more self-sufficiency and hopefully a productive adulthood. Obviously a job with its own challenges and stresses.)
Other online practice resources and groups in the Theravada tradition would be appreciated!
dsaly1969 wrote:Unfortunately I do not have a local Buddhist practice group.
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text: At LA Lakers Nov. 14th, 10:30 PM TV - ESPN, FS Detroit HD Radio - WDFN 1130 The back end of the back to back is against the WC Champion Lakers. At the time of this post the Lakers are undefeated. The nation will get to see the Pistons depth in this back to back set as both games are on national TV, tonight on ESPN.


text: Fancy Foil Poncho Style: 570067509 Out of Stock Love it? Everyone else did too. This item sold out! Use our search tool, chat online or call 1.888.855.4986 to find something equally desirable. Chic in a sweater poncho that's touched with shimmery shine. Pull-on styling with flowy poncho sleeves. Length: 26" to 29". 45% acrylic, 29% rayon, 26% Lurex®. Hand wash. Imported. Read More… Share on Facebook Tweet Pin


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The Comprehensive Wound Center is now open at Baylor Medical Center at Carrollton. Located on the Campus of Baylor Carrollton, our Comprehensive Wound Center is dedicated to offering advanced treatment for chronic, non-healing wounds. We identify the specific causes of your wound condition and implement a treatment plan tailored to help you heal. Typically any wound present more than four weeks should be seen in an outpatient wound care setting.
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Snowshower wrote:I would have to agree greatwhite. .. We're hoping!
pintails82 wrote:Go to www.mdc.com , look under waterfowl hunting, snow goose reports. They are telling you conditions and # of birds in a area.
Mallyard wrote:LOL... Truck+Gas+Basic Knowledge of Waterfowl habits = chance at sucess!
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Really interesting article put up Wednesday by the Houston Chronicle's Lance Zierlein in which he tries to figure out what ailed the Texans' running game last season. Arian Foster averaged just 4.0 yards per carry, down almost a full yard per carry from 2010. While Zierlein says that Foster didn't look "consistently spry" last year and needs to be more aggressive in looking for cut-back lanes, he placed most of the blame on the offensive line, which struggled with continuity after bringing in two new right-side starters.
Specifically, Zierlein said the line needs to do a better job of stopping defensive penetration and securing the edge so that Foster can get out of the backfield and around the corner. He said they also need to do a better job of executing their cut-back blocks, and the offense needs to make linebackers focusing heavily on Foster pay with more play-action passes.
Fantasy Analysis:
Through the past three seasons, Foster has touched the ball an astounding 1,243 times in 49 games, playoffs included. That works out to a little more than 25 touches per game. So, yeah, maybe Foster's YPC drop is due to his body breaking down. He is nursing a calf strain right now that will keep him out until training camp. The injury concerns are mounting, but even in what was sometimes a frustrating season for Foster's fantasy owners, he still accumulated more than 1,600 yards from scrimmaged and scored 17 times. I have him ranked No. 2 among RBs. Some might place him lower because of the heavy usage, nagging injuries and that low yards-per-carry average. But on the other side, if Houston's offensive line improves, and Foster stays healthy, he could be the top fantasy running back this season.


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Washington • Sen. Orrin Hatch wants to hear from any Utahns who feel they were inappropriately targeted by the Internal Revenue Service, setting up a form on his website to collect information that will be used as part of the Senate Finance Committee's bipartisan probe into the taxing agency.
"Our investigation will be fair, it will be responsible, and make no mistake about it, it will get to the truth," said Hatch, the committee's top Republican, in a video message. "I hope you will help and know that we are working to get to the bottom of this so this never, ever happens again."
The senator made his plea for information on the same day he met with the IRS' new acting Commissioner Daniel Werfel, a former White House official installed in the position after President Barack Obama demanded the resignation of former acting Commissioner Steven Miller.
The change in leadership stems from an inspector general report that found the IRS inappropriately singled out conservative groups for enhanced scrutiny based on their names and political beliefs over an 18-month period during the 2012 campaign.
The FBI is investigating the matter, as are three congressional committees.
In his meeting with Werfel, the Utah Republican stressed that the IRS needs to make sure "strong safeguards are put in place to ensure there will be no targeting of individuals or groups based on political views."
Miller, who appeared before the Finance Committee on Tuesday, denied that the targeting was politically motivated. Rather he said it was a mistake by low-level workers trying to be more efficient.
The IRS sent letters to the targeted groups, in some cases demanding to know the names of current and future donors, political beliefs and any intention to run for office.
Political groups can become tax-exempt "social welfare" organizations if they spend less than half of their resources on public campaigns that don't promote or oppose specific candidates. The status allows these groups to keep their funders' identities secret.
None of the Utah tea party groups have claimed they were among those targeted, with local tea party leader David Kirkham saying he funded most of the gatherings to avoid the need to file for tax-exempt status with the IRS.
Freedom Path, a group created to support Hatch's 2012 re-election, says the IRS sent intrusive questionnaires and inappropriately gave ProPublica, an online media organization, its confidential application. The group spent at least $570,000 supporting Hatch. The senator's spokesman said the investigation is in no way connected to Freedom Path, but is a responsibility the senator has as the lead Republican on the committee overseeing the IRS.
Hatch asked Utahns who have information to go to www.hatch.senate.gov and fill out the online form, promising any data provided will remain private.
Twitter: @mattcanham


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Gershwin Theatre
Until Sat Dec 31 2016
- $$$$
Photograph: Joan Marcus
Time Out rating:
Not yet rated
Time Out says
Mon Jun 11 2012
Based on novelist Gregory Maguire's 1995 adult variation on L. Frank Baum's Oz mythology, Wicked provides a prequel to the children's book and movie. The musical addresses complex themes, such as standards of beauty, morality and, believe it or not, opposition to fascism. Thanks to a witty book by Winnie Holzman (creator of '90s cult angstfest My So-Called Life) and composer-lyricist Stephen Schwartz's robust score, Wicked soars. While children five and up are permitted in the theater, little ones might be afraid of the flying monkeys—we'd recommend this show for kids that are a tiny bit older. Ages 8 and up.
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Venue details
Gershwin Theatre 222 W 51st St
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between Broadway and Eighth Ave
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Subway: C, E, 1 to 50th St; N, R to 49th St
Gershwin Theatre
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- 212-586-6510
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Big name talent. Business. Dating. Date night. Singles. Going in a group. Local talent. Mood. Escapism. Quirky. Romantic. Take a tourist. Take your parents
- Date Time Price information
Wed Feb 20 20132:00pm$65–$145, premium $251.25–$301.25Buy tickets


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|Topic Review (Newest First)
Re: Is the C&C 30 MK1 a capible offshore boat?
Just a little update to the first port hop I did on Memorial weekend.
Thanks for all the advise and help.
This is a great site for people learning and willing to listen.
S/V East Coast Lady
Re: Is the C&C 30 MK1 a capible offshore boat?
Have fun. Sometime this summer you want to do at least a couple of overnights so you know what that is like. You probably need lee cloths to keep you in the berths in even middling ocean waves (say 10 footers).
Couple of other hints, the trip to/from Bermuda is terrific and can be really easy or a real challenge. Try not to have too rigid a schedule that forces a departure in less than ideal conditions. Sometimes waiting even two days can make a huge difference. Check the Bermuda Harbour Radio website well before you go. They have an information form that must be filled out and submitted before departure. If you are taking any crew you must have an EPIRB and real life raft. Not having these is completely irresponsible.
Once you are sure of the integrity of your boat, and there is no reason to think that the C&C is not up to a Mayish trip, think about redundancy, especially for your autopilot. These things break down frequently and hand steering is no fun after a few days. There is a good chance that you will have periods of little or no wind. I would be inclined to want to sail rather than motor. It is a sailboat and if you were in a hurry to get to Bermuda you would fly. Practice sailing your boat in light stuff and if you are not comfortable with the speed keep your eyes open for a used cruising spinnaker with a sock. You could save the cost in fuel.
Think about energy usage especially if you do not have wind or solar power. Changing to LEDs, especially for running and anchor lights, is wonderful and definitely pays for itself in fuel saving.
Are you planning to anchor or tie up in St George's? The latter is not always possible so you will need decent ground tackle and a dinghy for getting ashore. Last time we were there dockage was $1.25/ft although there were a few free spots but always full.
A dark and stormy at the White Horse Tavern on arrival is a tradition, although I seem to remember not stopping at one. BTW, my first arrival off Bermuda in 1982 remains a highlight of my sailing life. sure you will feel the same.
Re: Is the C&C 30 MK1 a capible offshore boat?
O.K well here we go. I have committed deb and I to a 2 night 3 day sail on the upcoming Memorial day weekend. It will be around 70 miles and we will dock the first night on Hilton head at the marina. Hilton Head Harbor
from there we will head out to the THE BLUE BOUNDARY separating Hilton Head Island from the mainland is a wide, sweeping waterway named Calibogue Sound. The sound is melded from the confluence of Mackay Creek, May River, Cooper River, Broad Creek, and six tributaries on Hilton Head Island. Deep and 13 miles long, this waterway curves like the body of a dolphin and connects the Atlantic Ocean with Port Royal Sound. It is a place of history and natural wonders, beckoning discovery.
From there we will head to the Freeport Marina on Dafuskie. This Island in only accessable by boat. It was named by the slaves of the time they called it "the first key" or DAFUSKIE.
We will leave there and head out to the Ocean at tybee roads the shipping channel for the Savannah river and make out turn northwest. Our praviling wind should be from the south putting us wind on wing or a broad reach. We will then make our way to the bell marker "G" at martins industry and make our way back in to the port Royal sound "Back in familure waters. Hope to be on a incoming tide where the 10 miles back home will be a brease.
thanks so much to all you guys for helping and guiding a newby in this process. I'm excited to get out there. I fear if I did not have yall guideing me along it would have taken years to prepair for this trip.[IMG][/IMG]
Re: Is the C&C 30 MK1 a capible offshore boat?
Originally Posted by msmith10 View Post
Definitely check your mast step, even if your rigging does tune well. This is a common failure on this boat, but not too hard a fix.
My other concern on this boat is the plexiglas portlights-these are too lightweight (1/8") and could be entirely blown in by a broadside from a breaking wave. At the very least I'd want covers I could bolt over them if I knew bad weather was coming.
As for carrying extra fuel, you probably have an Atomic 4, right? I'd rather run low on fuel than carry jerry cans of gasoline, unless you can secure them well and protected.
I'd get to know your boat very well before I'd feel comfortable doing the planned trip. I think the boat is capable if it's in A1 shape, but you want to know where all the weak points are and fix them first.
Re: Is the C&C 30 MK1 a capible offshore boat?
Originally Posted by ltgoshen View Post
The Older C&C 30's were sitting on wood mine is the newer model made with an aluminum mast steep thru the cabin and mounted otop the keel. It is strong. I have inspected the Standing rigging all looks good. I do have an instrument to tune the rigging and the instructions for doing so. I was just asking how much slack i should expect when under a good blow. By the way I am Planning fy first Port Hop. Looks like the weekend of November 9-11. Weather permitting of course we will shag down to the Georgia coast. Then head back up to hilton head to spend the night at Scull Creek Marina. Then back out side to the bell marker then back to Beaufort. I'm excited.
Thanks fior your help.
As you said, I think from hull # 600 they switched to a sturdy aluminum mast step. No more half glassed water soaked plywood:
Here is how mine looked like:
Re: Is the C&C 30 MK1 a capible offshore boat?
Originally Posted by msmith10 View Post
That's good that you've got a diesel.
Get to know your boat. I've owned mine for 10 years, repaired or replaced all or part of every system, so I know what's in good shape and trustworthy and what isn't and will require attention in the future. That gives me an appropriate level of confidence and a strong working knowledge of the boat so in an emergency I know what's wrong and how to get at it and fix it.
1) pull out the Holli/teak soles replace with fake wood flooring
2) new bilg pump
3) all new halyards
4) All engine filters.
5) drain 17 gals of fuel and replace
6) new Head
7) Pro, cleaned all cusions with new plastic internal covers.
8) rebuild the 3 burner Pressure stove. Works great
9) tune the rigging
10) haul out have cleaned and painted.
11) stuffing box cleaned and repacked
12) New anchor rode and shackles.
13) new Garmin 215 installed.
14 New motor for the pressure water system
15) clean all 4 holding tanks out with bleach and Bacon soda
16) tighten all toe rail bolts to stop the rain water leaks.
__________________________________________________ ________
Left to do:
1) New Life lines
2) new Autohelm motor if and when I can find one.
3) Speed transducer trouble shoot and repair.
4) Sound proof the Engine locker.
So You are right it helps to get to know your boat for sure.
I got started in December and have spent like 4375 dollars not including the slip fees.
Thanks for the advise Im still learning but having a blast.
have a great week end.
Re: Is the C&C 30 MK1 a capible offshore boat?
Stick to you plan. The advice of finding someone to do some offshore passage making in the next 18 months is a good idea. Sans that taking a 3 day offshore sailing course will also help a lot too. You short coastal hops will be good experiene in understanding begnin as well as moderate ocean conditions, I am sure you are doing a lot of reading inyour preparations too. Keep moving forward.
Re: Is the C&C 30 MK1 a capible offshore boat?
Originally Posted by ltgoshen View Post
Yes Sir, I know Im not ready as of yet. I am cautious. I WANT TO LIVE... HAHA any wa6y I will go for short day trips offshore for the next 18 months or so before I do a "TRIP" I want to really get to know the boat and its abilities. This takes a commitment to cast off every time I can and challenge the weather a bit. I need to learn to reef in a controlled environment, close to home. Port Royal sound is bought three and a half miles wide and 14 miles long. That may be just the ticket in the learning grounds. I will practice anchoring and standing 3 hour watches. I And you are right a bought this forum, I have met some great people that have done nothing but encourage me but at the same time keeping me safe with warnings and advise. I'm glad I found this site. Thanks again for your help.
Re: Is the C&C 30 MK1 a capible offshore boat?
That's good that you've got a diesel.
Get to know your boat. I've owned mine for 10 years, repaired or replaced all or part of every system, so I know what's in good shape and trustworthy and what isn't and will require attention in the future. That gives me an appropriate level of confidence and a strong working knowledge of the boat so in an emergency I know what's wrong and how to get at it and fix it.
Re: Is the C&C 30 MK1 a capible offshore boat?
Originally Posted by jimjazzdad View Post
The question of whether such and such a boat is suitable to go bluewater sailing is best answered by another question: is the sailor ready to go bluewater sailing?
The old saying about the boat being able to take more punishment than her people rings true. If you know your boat and know yourself, you will know if your C&C 30 Mk1 will take you to Bermuda safely. If you are not sure, get all the experience you can, on the water and from forums like this too.
Good luck and see you out there one of these days...
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|Topic Review (Newest First)
Floor heat
Well - what I did was to start off by thinking that half inch is not very big, so I got 5 gallons of Prestone (I figured I have some left over!) and then mixed the first gallon in a bucket half and half with water - yielding 2 gallons total of fluid.
Then, using a drill-powered pump I pumped the first line full. When it started coming out the other end, I let it run back into the bucket and kept it going for another couple of minutes. Then I capped both ends of that loop, and moved on to the next one. But the bucket was nearly empty, so I dumped in another gallon of Prestone and another gallon of water, hooked up the drill pump and.....
After a while I went back to the store and got another 7 gallons of Prestone and kept up the same procedure.
Out of 24 gallons total of fluid, I have about a half gallon left, all the lines are full, and I have some 2600 feet of line in place.
Then I crimp-sealed the (return) ends of the lines, crimp-sealed (with an adapter) and air-compressor end to a 3 foot piece of pex and used a "shark-bite" connector to join the free end of the 3-fot piece to the still uncrimped end of my floor line. Hooked 125 PSI to it, left it for 10 minutes and checked for leaks. No leaks. Release the sharkbite from the end of the floo line and re-seal that. Hook the sharkbite to the next loop and repeat the 125 PSI test.
Repeat for all 13 loops.
Yes, there may be some air remaining in the lines, but the air/water separator that will go between the return manifolds and the heater will trap that, and allow for fluids to be topped up
|doesn't seem right. Were you able to purge the air out of all the lines?
Floor heat
Just as a follow up - if you are using half inch PEX as the tubing for the in-floor heating, be advised that every hundred feet of tubing needs just under one gallon of fluid for filling. I just filled and pressure-tested mine. I have approx 2600 feet of tubing (2400 sq ft shop) and I used 24 gallons of 50/50 antifreeze/water mix to fill all the tubing. Pressure-tested to 125 psi, and its all good to go.
in-Floor Radiant heat
That is the system I am currently installing in my shop. I am just now to the point of pouring the concrete.
I put 8 inches of sand base down, and compacted it, then two layers of poly vapor barrier. I topped that with 5 inches of hi-density foam, and laid out the re-bar.
Then following directions on the net I got the right kind of PEX tubing and laid it out so that all around the perimeter the lines are 6 inches apart, and are one foot apart everywhere else. I used half-inch ID pex, and no one line exceeds 150 ft. in length. (a lot of lines for my 40 X 60 shop!) Then I added an inch of hi-density foam between the actual floor and the foundation walls (Why try to heat the foundation?) and between the "inside" floor and the "outside driveway" (again, why have heat transfer to the driveway - its the shop you are heating, not the whole world!)
Now my next steps (this week) will be filling the lines with anti-freeze and pressure-testing them (individually) to 100 psi to check for any leaks. Then cap them all off (leaving them full of anti-freeze) and pour the concrete.
Last step will be installing manifolds to distribute heated fluids and collect the cooler returning fluids, the add in a boiler/heater whatever and a pump to keep things circulating, all controlled by thermostats in each of the three zones.
If you are going to do the work yourself, the best instructions I have ever found are at:
(I have no affiliation with this company)
a great layout assistance for in floor-heat tubing runs can be found at:
(again, I have no affiliation with this organization, either!)
Hope this helps!
Garage Heat Ltd
Hi There
Not sure if there is still an interest.
Radient heat if it's properly installed,will due the job.
1 cheep heat,gas or propane
2 less heat loss,lower cost of heating
3 warms the concrete floor,and objects in the garage
4 less heat loss when opening the garage doors
5 the radient heater should be the 8ft double tubed heater
Reply to swvalcon
Type in Munchkin Boilers on the internet. There are many compact boilers out there. Even electric if you dont have a fuel source. My came from a plumber who shares my shop space for his Nova. Go to my pics
floor heat
I also have floor heat and love it. The best part is that all your equipment stays at temp also, no more cold tools and parts. I keep mine set at a temp that is chilly until you get to working and then its perfect. I didn't insulate under my floor but the coils are sitting on a sand base and my slab is eight inches thick. I'm using a boiler and it comes on only about every two hours and then for a short time.
I have an overhead heater that I use when I bring in a cold project car to help warm the air back up in the shop quicker as my thermostat is near the outside door. I located it about 30 inches above the floor but don't know if that's the best plan.
I believe the key to a great shop is to insulate it well, I used 8 inch R-30 fiberglass and it is also surprisingly quiet. In the summer I don't even use an air conditioner, I keep the doors closed and use a dehumidifier.
|Where did you get your system looks and sounds like just what i'am looking for. Shop will be 30x60 and i would definitely put insulation under floor.
Hot water heat
I have in floor heat in my slab. I highly recomend it. Last years heat bill in northern Iowa was $43. Very important that you create a insulation bowl so to speak. I have 2" pink high density foam on the bottom and up to the pour line or concrete height on all 4 sides. I installed the plastic heat tubing in 3 zones. ( garage is 24X36). also important is to keep the zones nearly equal in length. This keeps one from getting hotter than the others. I ran the tubing about 12-14" apart and fastened them to the foam. Poured concrete over the top. I heat the water with a small boiler hanging on the wall. The name of the boiler is Munchkin. It will vary the burner output to match the water temp drop of the circulating water. Fill lines with antifreez ( I used RV for environmental concerns) and away you go. I have heard from others who used a water heater. The problem they had with those was needing to create a control situation that would turn the heater on and off or leave on and it will keep the loops and tank at a set temp. You will also have and additional water in tank. You will need to control a circulating pump also. The boiler idea has all the controling incorperated and is operated from a wall therm. Set it and forget it.
|I don't but I sure would like it. Another alternative but probably more expensive is infrared overhead. I have seen this work real well in a larger shop (about 40x60)
Garage Heat
How many of you guys have hot water in floor heat in your shops? I need as much information as i can get on this before i pore my slab for shop.
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In this week's Woot.com video podcast we learn the answer to that age-old question: Who parties like a platypus in new November pants? According to this sartorially-minded marsupial, no one.
I miss the audio podcast. :-)
I want my 56 seconds back.
Somebody is mixing up their marsupials and monotremes. But hey, it's a video!
I also bought new November pants
That song made me happy. Thanks Matthew!
Time wasting? Oh yeah.
You didn't do the "Plaid-pants-apus"?
Oh my goodness that was adorable.
boxjock wrote:marsupials and monotremes
We regret the error.
I now have the desire to buy new pants.
Gatzby wrote:I now have the desire to buy new pants.
Where's Pants.Woot when you need it?
joshmonkey wrote:Where's Pants.Woot when you need it?
Rumor is, you can just use a shirt from shirt.woot.
dave bug wrote:Rumor is, you can just use a shirt from shirt.woot.
I hear that's explicitly forbidden.
Yes, I miss the audio. Plus, the Halloween was was totally better, that guy/girl had some moves.
ojjeffrey wrote:Yes, I miss the audio. Plus, the Halloween ******one was totally better, that guy/girl had some moves.
ojjeffrey wrote:
And why is there a where's waldo dress wearing blue monster guy carrying a knife next to my name on this post!?#?!@$!@$#$#$R# #@$R% ()FY*DPJF
Catchy podcast. Reminds me of the 'avocado butt' podcast.
Woot, when's the last time that you read the podcast FAQ?
Armagedon wrote:
Woot, when's the last time that you read the podcast FAQ?
Updating that has been on our to-do list, actually. Mañana!
matthew wrote:Updating that has been on our to-do list, actually. Mañana!
That was quick.
I can't wait to read it! Hopefully it's funny.
PLEASE!! Oh please bring back the audio podcasts. Once a week is not just enough!
duncansil wrote:Once a week is not just enough!
Always leave them wanting more, that's our motto! (That's part of it, anyway. The complete motto is "Always leave them wanting wanting material of higher quality, as well as more of it.")
Pants weather for fat people is alost here in Texas, also known as the yearly yardstick to see just how much wight one has gained in the previous year. Thanks a lot, axis of the Earth.
can has a platypus shirt?
Worst Gratuitous Platypus Ever!
Video podcast.
I think we should be thankful the platypus didn't buy a new kilt.
Would have changed the MPAA rating for sure...
When I closed my eyes, it was like listening to a daily podcast. Except for the introduction is different, and it's not daily.
lordpil wrote:When I closed my eyes, it was like listening to a daily podcast. Except for the introduction is different, and it's not daily.
Try this experiment again tomorrow.
Woot is so far ahead of it's time.
The robots that will have killed all humans are going to go nuts for this.
Does this mean Woot has a new mascot, and the flying monkeys have retired?
The voice is great, thank you.
hilarious I laugh every time I watch this!
Makes me want to buy some corduroy pants.
They are kind of November pants, right?
dave bug wrote:Try this experiment again tomorrow.
I forgot woot existed for almost a week, but I just tried the experiment again. It's almost like a second podcast of the week! However, this time I noticed the audio quality was distinctly lower than the podcast...
More, more, more!
View All →


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Homeschoolers ages 5-12 will participate in a duck banding project to help wildlife biologists understand duck populations and distribution. We'll determine the species and age of the ducks, secure an aluminum band around the leg of the ducks and then release them into the wild. Waterfowl curriculum and interactive activities will be incorporated into the program. Fee: $7/child.
Space is limited. Registration required. Call 315-365-3588 or e-mail email@example.com.


text:
The genuine angora hairs used in these bed socks trap air like an insulated window, providing exceptional warmth eight times that of wool, helping to improve circulation. Available exclusively from Hammacher Schlemmer, the socks are made from the silky, fluffy hair of angora rabbits that are shorn after a full year's growth, and blended with wool and nylon for durability. They are well-suited for those who suffer from cold feet while sleeping, warding off chilblains. Light ribbing keeps the socks securely about the feet without unwanted constriction. 50% angora/30% wool/20% nylon. Imported. White or Gray. Sizes XS (Women's 5-7 1/2), S (Men's 5-7 1/2, Women's 8-10 1/2), M (Men's 8-10 1/2, Women's 11-13 1/2), L (Men's 11-14). Loose fit, please order one size down. (2 1/2 oz.)
Lifetime Guarantee
The Genuine Angora Bed Socks come with The Hammacher Schlemmer Lifetime Guarantee. If this product ever disappoints you, for any reason, you may return your Hammacher Schlemmer purchase for exchange, credit, or refund.
Should you have any questions, we are available seven days a week (8:00 am – midnight EST). Please call 1-800-321-1484 to speak with a specialist or email us at email@example.com to receive a response within three business hours or less.
May we recommend:
(based on 18 reviews)
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of respondents would recommend this to a friend.
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(5 of 5 customers found this review helpful)
toasty toes!
By Robin, the plant lady
from Berryville VA
I have always had cold feet when sleeping. Not anymore! These socks are super snuggly , and my feet don't sweat in them, a problem I had with regular socks. A super product!
Bottom Line Yes, I would recommend this to a friend
Was this review helpful? Yes / No
- flag this review
(4 of 4 customers found this review helpful)
Great nights
By T B
from Montreal,Canada
Great for keeping my feet warm at night.They are loose enough not to restict blood flow but not so loose they come off during restless sleep.
(2 of 2 customers found this review helpful)
Soft and comfy
By Cold Feet
from Freeport NY
soft, cozy and comfortable but way too big
If You Have Cold Feet At Bedtime
By bostonblackie
from NJ metro area
I use them at night when I first go to bed if my feet are cold I then remove them after my feet are warmer.
By none
from Hillsboro neOR
My feet felt cold at night, now they don't.
Excellent bed socks
By Madmax999
from London, Ontario, Canada
Best bed socks ever!
Warmth for your feet
By Dr P
from Portland, OR
No more cold feet sleeping, an excellent product.
Toasty toes
By Cold toes
from oregon
Keeps my toes warm!
Luxury style "angora" bed socks
By Connie
from Upstate South Carolina
Lovely angora socks - however, your HS sizing identified was too big for my accurate shoe size
excellent warmers
By Moses' Sister
from Augusta, GA
Excellent - plan to order more
COPYRIGHT © 2016 HAMMACHER SCHLEMMER & COMPANY, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. W107147 E. 57th ST • NEW YORK, NY • 10022 • 1-800-_321-1484


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Housing Briefs - March 16, 2012
Submitted by admin on Fri, 03/16/2012 - 1:19pm
State Updates
State Legislature Passes Supportive Housing bill; Awaits Governor's approval
On March 12th, the Legislature finalized An Act Relative to Community Housing and Services, S. 1967, one of CHAPA's top legislative priorities. This bill will enhance coordination and efficiency among state agencies and promote affordable housing linked to supportive services that enable tenants to be successful and independent. The legislation also establishes a goal of 1,000 new supportive housing opportunities in three years. CHAPA wishes to thank lead sponsors Representative Kevin Honan and Senator Pat Jehlen, the entire legislature, and dozens of partners who were instrumental in advancing the bill. The Governor has not approved the legislation, but we are hopeful he will sign S. 1967 into law soon.
Legislature's Committee on Housing Takes Action on Several Proposals
As the Legislature nears the March 21st bill reporting deadline, the Committee on Housing and several other legislative committees have taken action on several pieces of important legislation. The Housing Committee favorably reported S. 587, An Act Relative to Statutory Housing Covenants, H. 2117, Relative to Manufactured Housing Communities, H. 369 , Relative to Energy Efficiency in Affordable Housing, H. 2118, Relative to Eliminating Homelessness, H. 2128, Relative to Requiring the Posting of Certain Contact Information of Municipal Housing Authority Commissioners, H. 1271, Relative to Promoting Local Housing Initiatives for Economically Diverse Households, and S. 584, relative to Chapter 40R. CHAPA has seen all but one of our legislative priorities advance from Committee this session: zoning and land use reform legislation remains before the Committee on Municipalities and Regional Government.
Draft Housing Development Incentive Program (HDIP) Regulation Issued
DHCD issued a draft regulation, draft program guidelines and FAQs for the new Housing Development Incentive Program (HDIP) at the end of February. Enacted in 2010 (Chapter 40V), HDIP was created to support the development of primarily market rate housing in existing non-residential properties in "Gateway" cities. The program is limited to developments in which at least 80% of the units will be priced at "market rate" (the level affordable to households at 110% of area median, using a flexible definition of area). Municipalities that participate must offer at least a partial property tax exemption on the increase in value attributable to the market rate units and developers can apply for a state tax credit for to up to 10% of the cost of developing the market rate units. The total value of state credits that can be authorized is capped at $5 million a year, and DHCD is proposing a per-project cap of $1 million. DHCD will hold a program information session on March 27, as well as public hearings. Comments are due by March 29.
House Approves Smoke-Free Housing Proposal
The Massachusetts House has given initial approval to H. 383, An Act Creating Smoke-Free Elderly Housing Units in the Commonwealth. The bill directs DHCD to establish a policy, in conjunction with local housing authorities, to designate at least one residential building within the agency's portfolio as smoke-free. Any housing authority with more than 100 units would be required to designate 20 percent of the units as smoke-free and local housing authorities with less than 100 units would be exempt from the regulations. The bill requires one more vote by the full House before it would be sent to the Senate for consideration.
LEAN Multifamily Energy Efficiency Program Now Available to Larger Pool of Developments
The Low Income Multifamily Energy Retrofit Program (LEAN) provides energy audits and grant funds to support cost-effective energy efficiency measures in accordance with the Green Communities Act. Through 2011, only non-profit owners were able to apply for resources. The LEAN Advisory Committee changed this policy in January 2012 and now accepts non-profit and for-profit owned developments that meet the program's income eligibility requirements. LEAN is a national model for multifamily energy efficiency, and CHAPA is very pleased to see a broader portfolio of affordable housing developments now able to access this tremendous resource. We also support increased funding for LEAN in future Energy Efficiency Advisory Council 3-year plans and hope to work with partners across housing and environmental protection to further this goal.
Foreclosure Activity Fell in 2011
According to the Warren Group, 30% fewer foreclosure deeds were filed in 2011 (8,528) than in 2010 (12,233). This represents the lowest annual total since 2007 (7,653). However, there was also a 32% increase in petition filings in January 2012 (1,333) compared to December. Foreclosure deed filings continued to decline (662 in January), reaching the lowest monthly level since May 2011. As of the end of January, 20,517 Massachusetts households had permanent (18,568) or trial (1,949) loan modifications through the HAMP program.
Home Sale Activity Reached Lowest Level since 1990s in 2011; Single Family Median Price Declines
The Warren Group reported in late January that statewide single family home sale activity fell by 5.8% in 2011 compared to 2010, reaching the lowest level since 1990 (38,994 sales in 2011 vs. 35,819 in 1990). The median sales price in 2011 ($286,000) fell 3% compared to 2010 ($295,000). REO properties represented 3.8% of single family sales in 2011, down from 6.8% in 2010. Condominium sales (15,122) fell by 16.7% compared to 2010 (18,048), the lowest level since 1995. However, the median sales price for a condo increased by almost by 2% (to $270,000) compared to 2010. The share of condo sales involving bank-owned properties also fell, from 6.8% in 2010 to 3.5% in 2011.
Massachusetts Continuums of Care Receive HUD Homeless Assistance Funding
Massachusetts organizations recently received $4.4 million in homelessness assistance grants from HUD. Many of the recipients will receive funding to bolster supportive housing efforts
Chelsea Housing Authority Exits Receivership
The Chelsea Housing Authority has exited receivership after a thorough review of agency operations and management and a new board has been put in place to manage the agency.
Welcome Home Massachusetts Poised To Launch This Spring
The Welcome Home Massachusetts campaign, developed to support local housing initiatives, is seeking endorsers for the launch of its website this spring. For a detailed description of the campaign, click here.
To date, we have over 350 Welcome Home Massachusetts endorsers. If you would like to endorse Welcome Home Massachusetts and receive updated communications about the launch, the online tools and the campaign, please send an email with your name, your organization (optional), your email address and the community in which you live to email@example.com.
Federal Updates
HUD Releases Rental Assistance Demonstration Program for Comment and Partial Implementation
On March 8, HUD published a notice in the Federal Register announcing the release of its Rental Assistance Demonstration (RAD) program notice for comment and partial implementation. RAD is a pilot program authorized in the FY2012 budget that will allow public housing agencies to apply to HUD for permission to convert their federal public housing developments to project-based Section 8 assistance. It also allows owners with certain older project-based rental assistance contracts, including Mod Rehab, to apply to convert to long-term project-based contracts. The program notice seeks comments on all elements of the program, but allows owners of expired and expiring RAP and Rent Supp contracts to apply for conversion immediately. The deadline for comments is April 9.
Senator Reed files bill to create "Project Rebuild" (NSP successor)
On March 6, Senator Jack Reed (D-RI) filed a bill (S. 2162) to authorize "Project Rebuild," a $15 billion program to redevelop abandoned and foreclosed properties, stabilize neighborhoods and help disaster areas. (The Obama administration initially proposed the program in September 2011 and has included it in its FY2013 budget request.) The bill would provide $10 billion in formula grants to states and localities (with a minimum of $20 million per state) and $5 billion in competitive grants. While modeled on the Neighborhood Stabilization Program (NSP), it would provide more than twice as much funding overall and would allow more uses (up to 30% could be used to rehabilitate commercial properties and up to 10% for short-term property maintenance jobs). It would also allow for-profit entities to participate directly. In 2011, HUD estimated Massachusetts would receive about $40 million under Project Rebuild. Click here for a brief summary of the bill.
House Representatives Begin Effort to Continue and Extend LIHTC Minimum Credit Rate
Representatives Richard Neal (D-MA) and Patrick Tiberi (R-OH) are circulating a letter seeking co-sponsors for a bill filed in December (H.R. 3661) to set a permanent minimum credit rate for federal Low Income Housing Tax Credit (LIHTC) projects using 9% or 4% credits. Under current law, the dollar value of credits awarded to a project is calculated by multiplying eligible costs by a percentage ("credit rate") set by the IRS based on the federal cost of borrowing. If the cost of borrowing declines, the credit amount also falls, creating a funding gap. Congress approved a temporary minimum credit rate for 9% (but not 4%) credits in 2008 but only for units placed in service by the end of 2013. The impending expiration is creating uncertainty for 2012 applicants. A companion Senate bill (S. 1989) was also filed in December.
CHAPA Signs Letter Urging Increase in HUD Appropriations Allocation; Other State and Local Organizations Encouraged to Sign
CHAPA has endorsed a letter urging Congress to increase the 302(b) subcommittee allocation for the FY13 Transportation, Housing and Urban Development and Related Agencies (THUD) budget. This 302(b) allocation represents the portion of the federal budget that can be spent in these areas for the year. It is anticipated that the House will introduce a budget resolution providing for a funding amount even lower than the cap required by the Budget Control Act of 2011.
The Campaign for Housing and Community Development Funding (CHCDF) and other national groups submitted a letter signed by 178 national organizations, representing transportation, affordable housing and community development groups, faith-based and civil rights organizations, and private enterprise, as well as local officials.
The state and local letter is still open for signers. To show your support for an increased 302(b) allocation for the THUD budget, please sign onto this letter by March 20: https://nlihc.wufoo.com/forms/thud-302b-signon-letter/
CHAPA Urges Increased Funding for HOME Program
CHAPA has asked our federal elected officials to sign a "Dear Colleague" letter urging the THUD Subcommittee Chair and Ranking Member to restore HOME funding to at least $1.6 billion in FY13. HOME is a critically important program for Massachusetts. It is often paired with the low income housing tax credit, and is used as a major tool for preserving and expanding the affordable rental housing inventory. It is a key component of programs which support extremely low-income people, including those transitioning from homelessness, as well as veterans and persons with disabilities. In the past five years, HOME has funded 300 to 400 units annually in our state. HOME funds go to both the state (Department of Housing and Community Development) and 100 cities and towns. Last year, due to a severe budget cut to the HOME program, Massachusetts lost $17.5 million in HOME funding, representing a 41% drop (from $42.5 million to $25 million).
HUD Awards $23 million for Energy Efficiency Initiatives in Older Multifamily Buildings
On March 8, HUD announced grants to 12 organizations nationwide, including two in Boston, to test new ways to reduce energy costs and finance energy efficiency upgrade in existing multifamily properties. New Ecology, Inc. received $989,275 to implement energy conservation measures in about 2,700 affordable units in Massachusetts. NRG Solutions LLC (Winn) received $5.25 million to help establish a Multifamily Energy Loan Fund to retrofit about 1,200 units in low-income property in Massachusetts, Connecticut, Maine, Vermont, Rhode Island and New York City.
CBPP Finds HUD FY2013 Budget Request Could Leave 55,000 Housing Choice Vouchers Unfunded
In a report published on March 14, the Center on Budget and Policy Priorities (CBPP) estimates that the Administration's FY2013 budget request underfunds the Housing Choice Voucher program by up to $440 million, meaning it may not be possible to renew as many as 55,000 vouchers nationwide. It attributes the funding gap to both an underestimation of renewal costs (due to rent increases and recently authorized vouchers) and an overestimation of likely savings if new minimum rents and other administrative changes are implemented.
Calls for FHFA to allow GSEs to Reduce Principal in Loan Modifications Continue
The Administration has been urging Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac to add principal reductions to the tools they use when modifying loans, but the Federal Housing Finance Agency (FHFA) which oversees the two agencies in their conservatorship has refused to permit principal reductions. In late January, FHFA Acting Director Edward DeMarco released a study to support his position that using principal reductions would increase GSE losses at the expense of taxpayers. The study, however, has been roundly criticized for its methodology, with other analyses finding just the opposite. On February 27, 116 House Democrats sent a letter to DeMarco urging him to allow the principal reductions. This call has been supported by bankers, economists, academics and housing policy analysts, as detailed in a recent article in Atlantic magazine.
Recent Research
HUD Launches New Database on HUD-Assisted Households
HUD recently unveiled a Public Use Microdata Sample (PUMS) database providing household level data on the characteristics of participants in HUD's largest programs (Section 8 tenant- and project-based rental assistance, public housing, Section 202 and Section 811). The database contains information on a 5% sample and includes both demographic information and characteristics about their places of residence. Registration is required to use the data.
Out of Reach 2012
On March 2, the National Low Income Housing Coalition (NLIHC) released its annual Out of Reach report comparing HUD fair market rents (FMRs) and renter incomes across the country. For Massachusetts, they found that a household must earn $45,675 a year to afford a two-bedroom apartment at the 2012 statewide average Fair Market Rent ($1,142) without paying more than 30% of income on housing. This means a household must earn at least $21.96 an hour, assuming a 40 hour week (vs. $23.25 in 2011) on average. However, the required income varies widely within the state, from a high of $52,911 in Greater Boston to a low of $28,520 in western Worcester County.
The report estimates that the average renter in Massachusetts earns a wage of $16.94, meaning he/she must work 51.8 hours a week (or live in a household with 1.3 workers earning that average wage) to afford the two-bedroom FMR, just about the same as nationally (51.6 hours). A Massachusetts minimum wage worker, however, would need to work 110 hours a week (2.7 minimum wage jobs) compared to the 102 hours required nationwide.
Report Finds Rise in Housing Affordability Problems among Working Households
On February 24, the Center for Housing Policy issued a new report Housing Landscape 2012 on trends in housing affordability problems among working renters and homeowners with incomes at or below 120% of area median. Overall, it found that the median income of renters fell by 4% between 2008 and 2010, while median monthly housing costs rose by 4%. Homeowners experienced a 5% decline in income and a 2% decline in housing costs. As a result, the percentage of households with severe housing cost burdens (paying over half their income for housing) rose to 23.6% nationwide (up from 21.8% in 2008), including 25.6% of renters and 21.6% of homeowners. In Massachusetts, however, it found no change, reporting that the percentage of working households was 24% both in 2008 and 2010.


text:
|Topic Review (Newest First)
Originally Posted by Andi View Post
Thanks, everyone. I heard about Kocci Free before -- I wonder if that's the route to go... Does anyone know if that can be given at the same time as a probiotic? I was looking into buying Fortiflora.
|Thanks, everyone. I heard about Kocci Free before -- I wonder if that's the route to go... Does anyone know if that can be given at the same time as a probiotic? I was looking into buying Fortiflora.
Our dog had giardia 3x and between that and treatment her GI is messed up. The best thing we did was to stop kibble and we alternate feeding between a dehydrated raw, we use The Honest Kitchen and then we use a prepared raw, Natures Variety frozen patties, but there are different brands out there for both types of products.
Pumpkin did not do a thing for us, Tylan powder was never offered by our vet. Our dog's stool are perfect now, except if she has an extremely stressful event but even then her diarrhea clears up in a day or two. Prior to changing diet we'd end up at the vet.
Even though she's tested negative for giardia recently there might still be some lingering in her system. It can be extremely difficult to eradicate completely, and even the antigen tests aren't 100% accurate at getting a positive reading. Some folks on this site have had a lot of luck with a product called Kocci Free, a natural supplement you can buy on Amazon:
I've never used it with my dog but there are a couple threads here with folks that had long-term issues with diarrhea/giardia and Kocci Free cleared it up. Might be worth a try!
|She has been tested for EPI -- came back negative. And I tried switching her food a few months ago (holistic naturals) but she started have 5 bowel movements a day -- so I switched back to Fromm (slowly, of course). The diarrhea and giardia has been such a constant problem that I honestly don't know if she is ok on the current food or not...
|Harry and Lola
To me it sounds like SIBO (or SID as it is known now), have a read of this link SID (SIBO) - EPI * Exocrine Pancreatic Insufficiency
Because Harry has EPI he has had SIBO 3 times now. But I understand a dog can get SIBO without being EPI positive.
To treat, I purchase the Tylan powder and a cheap capsule making machine with size '00' gel capsules and made up my own capsules which he got twice a day for a course of 40 days.
After 40 days I stopped giving Tylan and within 2 weeks he had SIBO again. So I gave him another 40 day course, this time when the 40 days had ended and I was no longer giving him Tylan I gave in Protexin Probiotic Animal Health store - Probiotics - Protexin Powder Green Label 1kg - Protexin Soluble 125g Oramge Lable (you may have other probiotics in the US). Then I ran out of the probiotic and didn't replace it so Harry got SIBO again, so again he is on a 40 day course of Tylan and when this course finishes I will put him back on the probiotic everyday.
If she was fine on the food before the giardia, it's probably not the food. You might need to build up all of the good stuff in her gut again. Get her on a good probiotic. This is a fantastic supplement for soothing the stomach (which may just be inflamed after all of the problems):
Altarulm | Chinese Herbal Remedies | Qi Herbal Apothecary
If you can't find it, look for the individual ingredients in a health food store (slippery elm, marshmallow, and licorice).
Edit: I should add that the food might not be too rich for her in general, but it might be right now while her stomach is inflamed. You could give her a couple of days of a bland diet (canned pumpkin, cottage cheese, yogurt, could also do boiled chicken and some people feed rice) and slowly work the kibble back in.
Food suggestions - help with gas & diarrhea
My 9 month GSD Lola has had a few bouts of giardia and several rounds of diarrhea during her first year so far. The last round of giardia, the vet had her on Tylan powder for 5 weeks since we just couldn't get rid of the giardia. After being off of the Tylan powder for a week (and having firm stools the whole time!), the diarrhea came back. I took a stool sample in and it came back negative -- no giardia -- but the vet wanted me to go back to using the Tylan powder everyday until her stools firm up and then e/o day for about a month. I've also been adding canned pumpkin to her food every day. It's been 4 days now that we've been back on the Tylan and she doesn't have diarrhea -- but her stool is not very firm either. On top of that, her gas is HORRIBLE. I'm talking the-room-smells-for-an-hour HORRIBLE. I'm starting to wonder if it's her food, maybe it's too much for her? I've been feeding her really good food -- Fromm Large Breed Puppy -- but maybe I need to switch to a limited ingredient food, I'm not sure. Any food recommendations or even thoughts on holistic solutions to help with soft stool and gas?
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.22s are inexpensive guns and the ammo is cheap. If all you want to do is shoot at targets with your son, then that is the way to go.
If you are thinking about self-defense at all, then you probably want to go ahead and invest in a larger caliber. 9mm is probably the cheapest ammo, and so that caliber would make sense for target/defense.
You've read the old posts, so you know what most of us will advise: go to the range often and rent different guns. Rent them in different calibers, too.
You will find one that you shoot better or that feels better in your hand. That is the one you will want to buy. Enjoy the research part of this, it can be fun, and a great way to continue to bond with your son. You might even talk your wife into going out to the range to get her opinion about the guns you are interested in.
Know that there is going to be no "bad decision" here. Whatever gun you end up with will be great, will be fun.
Oh yeah, it will also only be your "first" gun, not just your only gun.
That is my opinion, but I'm not a guru. I'm sure you will get more words of wisdom from the really great folks on this forum.


text:
I've been teaching in Prague for half a year now and notice that even the best of Czech speakers continue to make a common mistake. I always hear
EXPLAIN ME (how this works, etc. etc.)
SAY ME (blah blah blah)
I always correct them and tell them that there is always a TO after Explain and SAY, but I'm not quite sure how to explain it them.
Of course TO is necessary here as a preposition, but why is it that we don't use TO with TELL ME?
All the words that have to do with "TALK" (EXPLAIN, SAY, TALK, TELL) needs the preposition TO, but not TELL. I'm not sure if there are other other similar words like this.
So, my student asks that I bring him a list of these words to explain when to use it with TO and when to use it without TO.
Can someone help me?


text:
Im looking for a day to day camera to traval with. I would say im a amateur. Ill never need to become a pro or anything. But would like to have it as a hobby.
To this effect im looking for a new compact camera. I have my big slr but need something I can carry day to day with out the massive bag.
Im looking to spend around the £200 mark. Maybe alittle more if I need to.
have been looking at the
Sony WX100 Digital compact camera
Sony HX20V Digital compact camera
Which would be the better choice given my experience is low to midium. Or is there a different one you would consider?
New Compact Camera
Started by skulth, Dec 31 2012 08:37 AM
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German Shepherd Dog Forums (http://www.germanshepherds.com/forum/)
- Training Theory & Methods (http://www.germanshepherds.com/forum/training-theory-methods/)
- - Legitimate use of Shock Collars? My experience.. (http://www.germanshepherds.com/forum/training-theory-methods/195786-legitimate-use-shock-collars-my-experience.html)
Legitimate use of Shock Collars? My experience..
Hello Friends, this comes from Oz (Australia). This is a bit of help, either for you or correction for me, but based on personal experience. I don't even know if they are legal in America, there is a lot of backlash on their use, but I have found them legitimate in a few areas. NOTE, before you fire up at me I am against them but have found them a life saver for a few areas. I want to trend toward a confident well socialized but somewhat personal protection dog. I am afraid it might harm the confidence using it on a 1-2 year old puppy, so I am not likely to use it. Please tell me the alternatives to what I describe..
Starting with horses, I had to paddock four together a long time ago not on my own property, and one was fat and a bully. He would go through electric fence tape. I could not isolate him. He would go to his own hay, stretch waaay out and pee all over it, then go beat up on someone else to steal their hay. Afterward, he would go (disgusting) and eat is pi$$ed on hay. Solution was my first experiment with shock collars. After he wore it for a few days and forgot about it: When he would go to bully others, he got a blast, (remote viewing shock collar), and it soon ended his aggression. It only took a few reminders once or twice a year and he was cured, a great trail horse, just cured of being a bully for food. It was as if he learned that other horses packed a punch and when he wheeled around to kick them something BIT THE HECK OUT OF HIM.. I also have had limited success with cribbing and wind sucking, but it takes too much patience watching. They soon learn that activity comes with an uncomfortable JOLT and they will change their behavior. Again, limited, very limited use and application.
Now with Dogs, I am too far away for you to throw rocks at me.. heh he.. It is not a training tool, not to be used very often, except to save the dogs life. One legitimate use I have found IMO is at work, truck and transport and forklifts, when they are laying down in the way and a vehicle comes within about a Metre, if they get a JOLT they soon learn cars BITE. I even baited them up stepping off a curb and when a car came within about a meter, something BIT THE HECK OUT OF THEM.. Now I have not had much success in getting them to look for cars any other way. Maybe I lacked skill or patience, OK... This worked right away, they simply learned vehicles could BITE THE HECK OUT OF THEM.. Maybe only six sessions over a week and a reminder once a month for a couple of months, and their behavior was changed as it was a hazard to them Laying around, they soon learned to get up and out of the way if ANY vehicle was moving in their direction.
And the same for stepping off a curb, right away when they learned cars BITE, they would look both directions before crossing the road, and not step out in front of traffic.
Please tell me a better way to train them to stay out of the way of vehicle??? I lost a dog as a kid, only an instant off a lead, he was distracted and ran out in front of a truck without looking before I could react.
The other application was against poison bait. I would put a variety of burger, sausage, bacon at different times. Dog out, go for it, get a mild jolt, and would actually drop it out of his mouth. It only took a few times and his reaction to bait was to alert bark at it, at about a metre, until I came out to collect it and praise him, take him in the house and give him another type of treat. Again this could take a reminder once or twice a year...
Tell me a better way? I do not want to use the shock collar any more, as I am convinced it could have harmful side effects. These are two areas I feel the shock collar could SAVE the dogs life.
I wait for your answers with an open mind.... Car training, and bait training, I have not had much success without the shock collar. Maybe I am just not patient or expecting too much too soon.. I have a new GSD pup coming in mid January and want to get it right...
lone Ranger, out on the "Last Frontier" with GSDs (2) and horses (many)... Living "Dances With Wolves" as much as I can...
you can train your dog not to step off the curb without an
e-collar. you can train your dog not to eat off the ground
or out of a strangers hand without an e-collar.
This is a follow-up on your training question concerning your last PPD post?
Or for just training in general?
Perfecting your dog's recall with a good trainer ( for you and the dog) is the best option.
In addition to other obedience commands, of course.
JMO. :) Kat
Secondly, maybe stepping off a curb with me, that is ok, but again not sure how you would get them watching out in a transport type situation for moving vehicles or forklifts headed their direction. When they are alone, off a lead, it is easy for them to just not be wary unless they have been BITTEN by vehicles..
Yes I am guilty, but the e-collar was short and effective for both. Not meaning to argue here, just looking for an effective alternative to both... If it exists, I do not know it, hence why I have posted...
This reminds me of the way they train dogs to avoid snakes. Isn't it to also get the dog to not want to be near it through some pain, though I'm not sure of the training details. I think for your purpose, I understand why you'd use it the way you do. Would be interested too of others feedback on your post.
Wow Bear, this is shaping up to be a cool Thread. I never thought of snakes, but that is only because on the few times in ten years my GSDs baled one up, (Australian for rounding up, holding/containing one up) they just danced all around barking at it instinctively staying out of range. Snakes here in Oz are about the worst in the world, but both my GSDs just danced around out range barking. Maybe that is because of the way I reacted as they do not "go Bush" without me.. I was Yelling / Screaming in terror BACK, BACK that means get back out of the way. Maybe it was instinctive on their part or just my extreme reaction. On foot or on a horse, I would go bezerk if they baled up a snake.. So they stayed out of range..
Good thought for an e-collar though, if someone had a dog that wanted to attack the snake.. They are deadlier than Cobras here... Mind you, very few deaths, maybe less than Shark attacks, which is also very rare..
Good Thought there Bear..
Is it likely that your dog will encounter poisoned bait? Is your dog off leash around moving vehicles? Is it possible to avoid the dog getting into those situations?
There are other ways to use the e-collar, you can study the methods of Lou Castle.
Obviously they train dogs to do or not do these things; look both ways before stepping off a curb; or they'd not be using dogs as seeing eye dogs.
And I KNOW they don't employ e-collars in Seeing eye dog training...
msvette, I agree about stepping off the curb, I can see that, thank you... But around big yards like my Factory buildings, vehicles driving in and out, dog with me 24/7, forklifts running, chasing a ball and off the lead it is a little more complex unless the dog learns they can BITE THE HECK out of him with an e-collar, and looks out for them. It is an association thing.
Sadly, I lost a dog about 40 years ago on a construction site innocently in my stupid youth. The second dog of two I have lost to vehicles. He used to trot along side the truck when I was moving. Something fell and startled him jumping to the side and a wheel picked him up. Sorry, one of those tragedies in life.
Msvette, the e-collar training makes them watch out for anything vehicular headed their direction. Even out on my horse property my dogs follow, but do not get in front of mowers, tractors, or quad bikes. They are wary of anything vehicular moving towards them, and will only trot along behind. I do not know how to handle that training without the e-collar association to the moving vehicle can BITE them if allowed to get too close.. So they move out of the way and are watching out.. Again, not arguing, I am looking for an alternative to the e-collar, but not sure of one...
Kind regards from OZ. Thursday here, now 3:30 PM across the International Dateline, late Wednesday night your time... Good night to you..
If it's a matter of life and death, I think a shock collar can be humanely used as an aversion-only tool.
Rattlesnake (or any snake) training, for example. If the dog is a hunting or stock dog, working off leash and often out of sight of the handler, aversion training is the way to go. I would much rather shock my dogs a few times than have them bitten by a snake.
Chasing deer, harassing livestock, chasing moose, chasing pigs, chasing cars, chasing porcupines- also dangerous, also most easily solved with some e-collar aversion work. Not to say a positive-only trained "leave it" or recall wouldn't work for many dogs- but for some dogs the self-reward of chasing just overcomes all the positive training. Also, a dog can get into trouble with a porcupine or snake or start a chase before you can give a command. An e-collar is a decent alternative to keeping a dog on leash all the time otherwise.
I hadn't thought about using the e-collar to teach the dog that vehicles are dangerous. It seems to be a safe and simple way to get that message across. Especially so that the dogs can enjoy coming to work with you and not be in the way or be in danger. Hey- if it works for you, and you haven't seen any issues with the training, great.
I do wonder how they teach seeing-eye dogs to avoid traffic. My initial thoughts are that seeing-eye dogs are chosen with specific temperaments in mind- that is, low prey drive, low reactivity, easily trainable, willing to please, low thresholds. I could be wrong, but that type of dog may be fairly easy to train to be car savvy. With a lot of repeated road crossings where the dog is trained to look both ways and only go when cars are not coming- the dog must be able to "get" it. I think most of us don't have the proper dog for the job of seeing-eye, nor the expertise to train this. Lots of dogs bred for it also fail out of the program.
I can easily teach my dogs to sit automatically at the curb and wait until I say "go" but I wouldn't trust them to watch for cars. I'd like to try to train this. Interesting discussion.
As a side note, when I was a kid our cats just were allowed to wander. Sadly, we had quite a few get killed by cars crossing the road. But the ones that figured it out, did look both ways before crossing- I saw one of our most savvy cats do this. If the cats made it past 1 year old or so, they lived to die of natural causes. I'm not sure what made these cats different. Whether they had a really close call, were just naturally wary, or were smart enough to see the danger. Regardless, any future cats my parents have will be indoor-only because there is no way to know which cat will get it and which won't. I suppose you could e-collar train a cat to avoid cars... who knows?
I think it's a smart idea to teach our pets that vehicles are dangerous. Done right, it seems like something every dog or cat should know. An e-collar seems like a simple way to do this- for dogs anyway, but I'm really interested in other methods people might use.
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Free personalized radio that
plays the music you love
Avant released three more albums through MJM, all of which were distributed by Universal and featured one major single. Ecstasy (2002) was propelled by "Makin' Good Love," the singer's third Top Ten R&B single. The sprawling Private Room (2003), weighed down by some substandard material, nonetheless produced yet another Top Ten R&B hit in "Read My Mind." Director (2006) repeated the feat with the equally successful "4 Minutes." Avant subsequently signed to Capitol -- a move that did not impede his momentum. A self-titled album (2008) peaked in the Top Ten of the R&B/Hip-Hop Albums chart, just like Avant's first four albums, yet he moved once more to Verve Forecast, where he issued The Letter (2010). On Face the Music (2013), an EMI-distributed release, he reunited with Wyatt, with whom he scored another duet hit ("You & I"). The singer celebrated 15 years in the business with The VIII (2015), his seventh Top Ten R&B/HipHop hit. ~ Ed Hogan & Andy Kellman
Selected Discography
Track List: The VIII
Track List: Face The Music
Track List: Best Of
Track List: The Letter
Track List: Avant
Track List: Director
Track List: Read Your Mind Remix featuring Bigg Snoop Dogg
Track List: Private Room
Track List: Read Your Mind
Track List: Ecstasy
Track List: Separated / My First Love
Track List: My Thoughts
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From HaskellWiki
The IDE world in Haskell is incomplete, but is in motion. The current state of affairs is documented below.
1 IDEs
The list below is incomplete. Please add to it with whatever you think of. This list should be expanded into sections with more details, with links to the actual documentation of the described features.
- Vim — PROS: Free. Works on Windows. Works in terminal. Decent alignment support. Tag-based completion and jumps. Very good syntax highlighting, flymake (via Syntastic), Cabal integration, Hoogle. Documentation for symbol at point CONS: Arcane, difficult for new users. Some complain of bad indentation support.
- Emacs— PROS: Free. Works on Windows. Works in terminal. Decent alignment, indentation, syntax highlighting. Limited type information (type and info of name at point). Cabal/GHC/GHCi awareness and Haskell-aware REPL. Completion and jump-to-definition (via ETAGS). Documentation of symbol at point. Hoogle. Documentation for symbol at point. Flymake (error checking on the fly). CONS: Arcane, difficult for new users.
- Sublime — PROS: Works on Windows. CONS: Poor alignment support (though there are packages to do indentation a little better). Proprietary.
- Yi — PROS: Written in Haskell. Works in terminal. CONS: Very immature, lacking features. Problems building generally, especially on Windows.
- Leksah — PROS: Syntax highlighting. Understands Cabal, Module browser, dependency knowledge, documentation display inside the IDE, jump-to-definition, flymake (error checking on the fly), limited evaluation of snippets, scratch buffer. Autocompletion. Not an arcane interface a la Emacs/Vim. CONS: Doesn't have a decent REPL. Are there any other cons?
- EclipseFP
- Visual Haskell
- Other
- KDevelop — Decent project management.
- HEAT: An Interactive Development Environment for Learning & Teaching Haskell
- Xcode with this Haskell Plugin
2 Notable features of interest to consider
This is a list of features that any Haskell IDE could or should have. The IDEs listed above generally support some subset of these features. Please add more to this list if you think of anything. In future this should be expanded into separate headings with more description of how they would desirably work.
- Syntax highlighting (e.g. for Haskell, Cabal, Literate Haskell, Core, etc.)
- Macros (e.g. inserting imports/aligning/sorting imports, aligning up text, transposing/switching/moving things around)
- Type information (e.g. type at point, info at point, type of expression)
- Intellisense/completion (e.g. jump-to-definition, who-calls, calls-who, search by type, completion, etc.)
- Project management (e.g. understanding of Cabal, configuration/building/installing, package sandboxing)
- Interactive REPL (e.g. GHCi/Hugs interaction, expression evaluation and such)
- Knowledge of Haskell in the GHCi/GHC side (e.g. understanding error types, the REPL, REPL objects, object inspection)
- Indentation support (e.g. tab cycle, simple back-forward indentation, whole area indentation, structured editing, etc.)
- Proper syntactic awareness of Haskell (e.g. with a proper parser and proper editor transpositions a la the structured editors of the 80s and Isabel et al)
- Documentation support (e.g. ability to call up documentation of symbol or module, either in the editor, or in the browser)
- Debugger support (e.g. stepping, breakpoints, etc.)
- Refactoring support (e.g. symbol renaming, hlint, etc.)
- Templates (e.g. snippets, zencoding type stuff, filling in all the cases of a case, etc.)
3 See also
There was a previous poll by Johan Tibell here. There was also a study on Haskell Weaknesses which barely touched upon IDEs.
- Editors
- Applications and libraries/Program development#Editor support
- The aim of the shim (Superior Haskell Interaction Mode) project is to provide better support for editing Haskell code in VIM and Emacs privious link is no longer valid repo here
4 Outdated
- plugin for Xcode
- hIDE, now apparently orphaned


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[Date Index]
[Thread Index]
[Author Index]
Re: Q: ROTATING ANIMATIONS in MMA?
In article <45fl40$2t8 at ralph.vnet.net> ianc at wri.com (Ian Collier) writes:
> In article <45d0hg$5tc at ralph.vnet.net>, Zorro <berriz at husc.harvard.edu>
> > Hi. I'm trying to produce an animation of a 3-D object to simulate
> > the smooth rotation of the object about the vertical axis. I came up
> > with
> >
> > Table[Show[3DObject, Boxed -> False,
> > ViewPoint->{ 2 Cos[n 2 Pi/60], 2 Sin[n 2 Pi/60],2 }],
> > {n, 0, 60}];
> >
> > This *almost* worked. The only problem is that Mathematica doesn't
I've done this a bit. I use another application called Geomview from U.
Minn's Geometry Center. It allows for importing of Mathematica (and Maple,
for that matter) 3D Graphics. Geomview allows one to rotate, zoom, etc.
Lot's of fun.
Rex A. Dieter rdieter at math.unl.edu (NeXT/MIME)
Computer Specialist Voice: (402)472-9747
Department of Mathematics and Statistics FAX: (402)472-8466
University of Nebraska - Lincoln http://www.math.unl.edu/~rdieter/


text:
Dodge Viper Models and Viper History
Debuting as a show car in 1989, the Viper supercar entered production for 1992. Introduced as a two-seat roadster, the Dodge Vipers key source of attention was the 8.0-liter V-10 engine combined with a six-speed manual transmission. An aluminum block engine produced in cooperation with Lamborghini, the powerplant developed a highly potent 400 horsepower.
Early Dodge Vipers models lacked basic amenities such as sliding side windows and even outside door handles. In 1996, the Viper received more power, a stiffer chassis and the addition of a coupe body style choice. The 1996 Dodge Viper GTS Coupe received a more powerful 450-horsepower ten-cylinder engine.
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While the chassis was strengthened, the new Viper actually weighed less than its predecessor. Under the hood, an enlarged 8.3-liter V-10 engine delivered 500 horsepower with the SRT-10 Roadster. Only offered as a roadster from 2003 to 2005, a hardtop returned for the 2006 model year. The Dodge Viper SRT-10 Coupe featured a 510-horsepower engine and 3.9-second acceleration from 0 to 60 miles per hour.
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Dodge's Viper supercar wows with an intricate, sexy designand road-hogging, heart-stopping speeds that will make you do a double-take.
2015 Dodge Viper
Dodge's trademark performance racing car returns in grace and candor for 2015. It's faster, sportier and more stylish than ever before.
2010 Dodge Viper
A 600-horsepower brute supercar set to disappear, the final production year of the current 2010 Dodge Viper enters its uncertain future presenting the a Final Edition package.
2009 Dodge Viper
A top-speed racing performer, 2009 Dodge Viper challenges even the most expensive exotic cars, especially with its price.
2008 Dodge Viper
An iconic two-door sports car with an 8.4L V10 producing 600 hp, the 2008 Dodge Viper is an automotive force of nature.
2006 Dodge Viper
The 2006 Dodge Viper is a two-door two-seat high-performance sports car with a 500 hp 8.3L V10 under the hood paired with a six-speed manual transmission.
2005 Dodge Viper
An exotic, high-performance two-door sports car with seating for two passengers, the 2005 Dodge Viper houses a massive 8.3L V10 which generates 500 hp.
2004 Dodge Viper
The 2004 Dodge Viper is a high-performance convertible sports car that seats two-passengers behind the massive 500 hp 8.3L V10 under the long hood.
2003 Dodge Viper
The 2003 Dodge Viper is an exotic high-performance sports car that seats two passengers, has a manual convertible top, and has been totally redesigned for the new model year.
2002 Dodge Viper
The 2002 Dodge Viper is a two-passenger high-performance sports car available in coupe or convertible form, and it features a 450 hp 8.0L V10 under the long hood.
2001 Dodge Viper
A high-performance American sports car, the two-passenger 2001 Dodge Viper is available as a coupe or convertible, both of which are powered by an 8.0L V10 producing 450 hp.
2000 Dodge Viper
A powerful two-passenger sports car, the sultry 2000 Dodge Viper is a true high-performance machine and it is available as a coupe or a convertible.
1999 Dodge Viper
A high-performance, exotic American supercar, the 1999 Dodge Viper seats two passengers and boasts a massive 8.0L V10 engine under the hood.
1998 Dodge Viper
The 1998 Dodge Viper is an exotic, high-performance sports car which seats two passengers, is available as a coupe or convertible, and boasts a massive 8.0L V10 engine under the hood.