text:
Compare great Ford Power Steering prices in Hendon with Who Can Fix My Car.
Enter your registration, compare quotes, and find a great garage near you. Get your competitive local prices now!
Compare great Ford Power Steering prices in Hendon with Who Can Fix My Car.
Bit more than I wanted to spend, but done a really good job at fixing the damage on my car. Better than expected.
Took in my s type jag to change the gearbox sump,filter and oil.i supplied the parts.i bought them from eBay.got a call from garage to say I got wrong sump pan.they cleaned up the original and put my new oil in.car runs and gear change is smooth and spot on. Thank you and I will recommend you to my friends and use you again.i also got a call to say I forgot my sump pan that I supplied.went back and got it and now its going back to suppliers.thanks again.great customer care.friendly staff
He did a good job, as good as anyone could have done. It turned out to be a much bigger problem that would have been over £3000 to fix which wasn't worth doing. Good service!
Shahid went out of his way to assist me . I would highly recommend his establishment to anyone.
I had a big dent on the RHS side back wheel arc of my car. A good professional job that was done at a reasonable price. Definitely recommend Shahid and his team.
Pros: good documentation of the service Cons: they don't work with customer's parts and i would have expected them to use Castrol Edge, not Magnatec, which was quite expensive (49gbp for 4.5 l)...agree customers can fail bringing the correct parts but don't think it's a valid reason. Also, gbp 120 plus vat for an oil change, i think that's too much and the oil is not even the best one. They should inform the customer amd agree on the spare parts/ oil. Using after market spare parts should be an option. Next time I will go for a service where i can use my own spare parts and oil/ cooling liquid. However, if you agree with their way of car service, you should go for it.
Robert contacted me for the work and explained to me exactly what was needed and time required. He also helped me book the appointment for Saturday. He answered all my queries clearly. On the day as agreed, they started work as soon as I reached the garage and the work was completed on time as previously mentioned. Read brake pads and sensor were changed. Brake fluid was replaced. They also inspected the front brakes and discs and even suggested when I would need to change it and did not scare or persuade me to change it right away like some other garage had quoted me. Overall it has been a pleasant experience and I would definitely recommend C&R Motors and their team. Thanks guys
Very quick, polite and efficient
Really easy to book. I took the car in and was completed within the time agreed. This was fantastic cos I had other appointments booked. I was able to be on time . I would definitely recommend C & R Moters Ltd. Great job.
Thoroughly satisfied with the work carried out at this garage. Job was completed quickly and properly. Customer service was excellent also. Highly recommended.
Really good service friendly and helpful will defo return when needed don't get service like this verry often thanks
Great service..very friendly...
Quick service!
Highly recommended. Serviced my Range Rover. Picked it up and dropped it back. Would come back again.
Great people, great price and a cooler car. Thanks!
Very good
Definitely Recommend this garage, great staff, very welcoming and friendly, gives honest advice and good service. Extra things were done without charge. A++++++++
You cannot trust them either..they didn't make oil change and they charge me 30£ for that job, what didn't do, some unreliable..i'm sitting customer room and i cannot see, what they do..watch out this garage..i cannot recommended them ! They try to charge brake discs too, discs not always need to change same time, when pads..
Job could have been done a little bit quicker but very good service overall!
Happy with the service provided. Job done well.
Very good communication. Fast repair and quality work. I would go back again.
Nina at Bonis made me feel welcome to the garage and informed me of the progress while the car was being repaired. When I returned she showed me what parts were replaced. Honestly have to say that the service Nina provided is the best I've had from a garage. I would highly recommend this garage for friendly / honest customer service, fantastic value for money and performing repairs within stated budget. There were closer garages to me but decided to travel in because of the competitive quote and how I was treated by the staff here.
Good, professional and work done as expected. Totally recommend.
Fast and very good service.I recommend this garage if you want to be cheap and to get maximum quality service for your car.
Good communication very helpful. Great job, done very quickly, for a reasonable price. Will definitely use again and would recommend.
very happy with the service
great job
Had some extra work done
They did a great job and it was all done very quickly. I'd certainly go back.
Great, final bill ended up being less than what was quoted!


text:
Let me begin by saying that my family doesn't "do funerals". Both sets of my grandparents and my mother have passed away and I have never been to a family funeral. I was 30 before I ever visited the grave of a relative. I know for sure that my paternal grandparents and my mother were cremated and their ashes scattered in the ocean. I need to find out if my maternal grandparents were buried or cremated.
Born: Nov 5, 1931 in Los Angeles, CA
Died: Dec 30, 1997 in Palo Alto, CA
My mother died peacefully after a long battle with diabetes.
I miss you mom.
Photo Credit: Paul Keesey (my Dad)
Unless otherwise noted, all Photographs taken by Alice Keesey Mecoy and remain the property of Alice Keesey Mecoy. If you would like to use a photograph or post on your site, please ask for permission first and give proper credit. Thank you!

subset: commoncrawl


text:
I know everyone in the "cold" states doesn't really get excited about snow, but us SoCal people do .
We are getting snow out here in The Hi-Desert of Southern California for the last several hours.
Here it is about 4PM
and at 8PM
and the babies in the backyard
Good thing I mowed the lawn yesterday. :


text:
The town of Fremont, Nebraska, located on our beloved Great Plains is determined to prevent influx of foreigners and drug addicts and them nasty Hispanics who ruin the scenery of their fair state and take jobs from native born God-fearing Nebraska folk. People in Fremont are voting on a new law that requires foreign nationals to get a license from the city council in order to live in within city limits. The number of Hispanics working in meatpacking plants has risen from about 165 twenty years ago to over 2,000 today. Jerry Hart, a backer of the new law, is worried about continued arrival of "these people" because if they continue coming, "we could have terrorists and gang members and people involved in drugs." Of course, the latest to be arrested on terror charges are men who have American citizenship and the bombing in Oklahoma City was carried out by one of those God fearing native born Americans.
I assume if this bill and others like it become laws, executives with British Petroleum will be required to get an "occupancy license" in order to conduct business in Washington D.C. and the 25% of baseball players from Hispanic countries will not be allowed to take the field unless they show umpires their occupancy license which allows them to play baseball. How many people in the Midwest originally were from Canada, but hopped across the border in the 19th century and became "native born Americans?"


text:
The bigger issue is question two. It is indisputable that products across all sectors are becoming more and more indistinguishable and this is largely being fuelled by the rise of the touchscreen. In simple terms touchscreens allow other physical parts to be stripped away. Your hands become the mouse, touchpad and keyboard. The problem is it also strips away individuality and results in a common form factor: namely ever slimmer slabs that are 90 per cent screen.
Consequently phones, tablets and eventually all-in-one PCs are headed for a minimalist clone-like existence where similarity is inevitable and the smallest detail can result in oversensitive companies embarking on ferocious lawsuits. Apple's lawsuit against Samsung is a perfect example. It is furious about the corner curves on the Galaxy range! With convergence centred around the phone and compact cameras, video recorders and games consoles next in line to be swallowed by handsets the obsession with guarding every millimetre of popular designs is only going to get more heated.
It is a similar situation with software. Right now mobile software is being governed by something we all share: fingers, and what is deemed to be most finger friendly right now are grid designs. That will inevitably change as designs evolve, but today to be competitive and to appeal to what mainstream customers 'know' it means wasting no time, launching competitive products and dealing with the consequences down the line. Court hearings take years and if every product had to be cleared through the courts first we'd still be making calls by generating sparks. As accountants tally their figures the penalties for breaking patents are insignificant compared to not being in the running in the first place.
The flip side to all this is the death of real innovation. When the stakes are so high you don't take creative risks, you just follow the competition. Today's Android smartphones are all small variations of one another and Windows Phone handsets are even more identical. Even RIM and Nokia are (unsuccessfully) trying to shake off their iconic button designs and join the slabs with the likes of the Storm and C5.
As a result some of the most compelling products we see are prototypes that companies simply don't have the gumption to bring to market. Therefore the products that do dare to be different tend to come from companies with nothing to lose and little drive to see it through properly. Take the dual screen Kyocera Echo smartphone or Microsoft's wonderful looking Courier tablet. Kyocera's effort has been widely panned and should scare companies off trying to repeat the formula for some time. Likewise Microsoft's lack of presence in the tablet sector saw it try something radical, before canning it and falling into line with dull Windows 7 based slabs like the LG H1000B. It will be 2012 before Microsoft unveils a dedicated Windows tablet OS and who doubts it will look just like a port of Windows Phone?
Much is made of the speed at which the tech sector evolves. With a constant stream of opportunistic lawsuits and unrelenting convergence the worry is for how much longer?


text:
Senior forward Brianna Smith was named to the Preseason All-MAAC Team, the conference announced on Wednesday. It's the second time Smith has received the honor after being named to the team prior to the 2011 season. The team was voted on by the conference's 11 coaches.
Smith finished ranked second in the MAAC in goals (11) and points (22) in 2012. She led Canisius in goals, points, shots (57), shot percentage (.193) and game-winning goals (3).
The 2010 MAAC Rookie of the Year, Smith earned All-MAAC First-Team honors at the end of the 2012 season for the second time. Smith currently ranks fourth in goals and seventh in points at all-time Canisius.
The Griffs were picked to finish ninth in the MAAC preseason poll, which was also released today. The coaches tabbed Fairfield as the favorite to win the MAAC.
Canisius will kickoff the 2013 season at Cleveland State on Friday at 7 p.m.


text: What can I say, I have been to so many shows that I stopped counting a while back but I won't forget the immortals one last night. Il keep this short but it has to be the most unprofessional one that I have witnessed. And I can't see many clubs pushing fighters for the next one. Shame to see that shit up in Aberdeen.


text:
Sundance is a free video theme brought to you by the team here at Automattic. Despite its minimalist design, Sundance was crafted with clean, elegant typography and close attention to detail. The home page offers a featured video carousel. It supports the video post format, widgets, custom background, custom header, custom menus, and a custom link feature for your social media pages.
Featured Video Carousel
The Sundance theme offers a featured video carousel on the home page. All you have to do to activate is create a sticky post with the video post format. Then add an excerpt, which appears to the right of the video, as you can see in the screenshot below. Once you have more than one featured video, the arrows and the indicator appear. You are able to feature a maximum of ten posts in the carousel.
Theme Options
Let your users stay in touch! The Sundance theme lets you add social network links on Twitter, Facebook, Google+, and Flickr in the sidebar so that your readers are able to stay connected through these.
You can configure this in Appearance → Theme Options, through the WP Admin dashboard (to access it, add /wp-admin to the end of your site's url, e.g.: example.wordpress.com/wp-admin).
Responsive Design
Sundance is designed with responsive design in mind. It provides a tailored layout depending on the device you are using. This makes your blog look good not only on desktop browsers, but also on devices with smaller screens, such as the iPad and iPhone.
Widget Area
Sundance theme offers an optional sidebar with widgets. If you choose to add widgets to the sidebar in Customize → Widgets they will be displayed in a right-hand sidebar. If you prefer a single-column design, you may leave the sidebar empty as well as disable the social network links and then posts will span the entire width of the layout.
Custom Appearance
Customize Sundance even more with the custom background feature, a custom header image, a custom menu, and a full-width template.
Quick Specs (all measurements in pixels):
- The main column width is
652except in the full-width layout, where it's
- Widget width is
- The custom header image is
242(width, height).
This theme is available for download to be used on your WordPress self-hosted installation.Download


text:
Lifestyle changes are a major part of managing fibromyalgia. These changes include:
Improve Your Diet
There is no specific diet to follow when you have fibromyalgia, but it does matter what kinds of foods you eat. Eating a balanced, healthful diet will help you feel better and provice your body with the nutrients it needs. This includes eating plenty of fruits, vegetables, and whole grains. Eat fish and lean meats like chicken. Drink plenty of water throughout the day. It will help keep you hydrated.
Some foods may be more irritating than others. Keep a journal of what foods worsen your symptoms. If you have problems with managing your diet, talk to a registered dietitian who can help you with meal planning.
Exercise Regularly
Exercise is perhaps the most effective way to improve fibromyalgia symptoms. Benefits include:
- Prevention of muscle atrophy
- Reduction in muscle stiffness
- Reduction of pain and fatigue
- Improved sense of well-being
- Increased flexibility
Your exercise program should begin with mild activity and gradually increase over time. Try to incorporate different types of exercise, like:
- Aerobic activity
- Strength training
- Flexibility exercises
Exercising in a heated pool may offer benefits. In one systematic review of 16 trials, researchers found that people with fibromyalgia who participated in aquatic training in warm water (strength, aerobic, and relaxation exercises) reported an improvement in symptoms and function.
Manage Fatigue
Pain and sleeplessness can increase the amount of fatigue you feel. Although exercise is important, so is getting enough rest. Balance periods of rest and activity to maximize your energy level. Ask for help at home when you need it. Make a list or schedule of activities that you need to get to. If you feel tired, put off the least important tasks.
Getting enough sleep is an important part of reducing fatigue. It is important to maintain a sleep schedule that is consistent, even during your days off from work or other commitments. Other sleep habits include:
- Keep your surroundings comfortable. Most people sleep better in a cool, dark room. Avoid using electronic equipment like a cell phone or TV.
- Have a bedtime routine that includes relaxing, such as reading a book or listening to music.
- If you wake up during the night, get out of bed and return when you feel drowsy.
- Avoid taking naps during the day.
- Use your bed for sleeping and sex only.
- Exercise more than 6 hours before bedtime.
Manage Stress
Some people with fibromyalgia have found that certain techniques that help you relax and reduce stress may be helpful in managing chronic pain. Examples of successful techniques include:
- Yoga
- Breathing exercises
- Relaxation exercises
- Meditation
Work often creates stress. You can reduce your hours at work or find something else that works better for you. This may include a new job or making changes at your current job.
Seek Support
Living with fibromyalgia can be stressful and make you feel like you are alone. Feelings of anxiety and depression are common. Talk to your doctor about counseling or support groups. Support groups are helpful because they allow you to interact with other people who have fibromyalgia. Their experiences and coping styles will help you better manage the condition.
Revision Information
- Reviewer: Michael Woods, MD
- Review Date: 09/2016 -
- Update Date: 09/14/2016 -


text:
|Topic Review (Newest First)
Oh okay so you can only charge the insurance company $2000 when the damages are $5000 on paper? Then that makes it possible to actually loose money by taking in a job when you add up all the expenses? Causing you to use less expensive methods, making your product look bad, then depreciating the value of the product. If I got that right then maybe the insurance companies should of thought this part of the plan out. Kind of like how no one thought that mortgages and student loans would just increase the price of housing and education.
Do you know if there is more money in selling repaired smashed cars on websites like Kijiji? When I was working we were doing it paired with other jobs but I knew of shops around us that were doing it full time. One shop didn't even have a paint booth, they just drove the car to another shop when everything was finished. I thought that these guys were pumping out cars and I saw branded cars being sold fast even out of my shop. I mean it's not as simple as posting an ad on Kijiji and I could tell you what I mean in a PM if you wanted to sell a car a little faster.
|many smaller shops do just to get the business..most that do fail and close within 6 months... in order to succeed as a small shop..you can only work a two man crew or step to a seven man crew according to statistics...in addition to being a clever marketer and providing more quality and service than others...I am semi retired now and very happy to be away from the " rat race"...i wasnt able to earn enough as a small business to gain financially and unfortunately..most places I worked carried no retirement, insurance or benefits of any kind....therefore...am retiring with no saviongs...my advice...find another field!!! LOLOLOL
|Old Fool
|these figures are for example only and probably dont represent exact totals..I am merely making examples of supposition
insurance bugaboo
well, Pierce...the insurance companies are so big that they actually rule the world...they own all the banks and finance companies and control our financial world..example of insurance crap!!!!..you crash your car and take it to my shop...ok???...you are insured by....lets say Allstate....you have full coverage and have been paying for 10 years to this agency....so..you turn in your claim...you have managed to incur 5000.00 dollars in damage to your2007 corolla...even tho it was not your fault...you are going to be penalized cuz your car has decreased in value so much that it is totaled...now we all know that your Corolla was in tip top shape...doesnt matter...the insurance will only pay 80 percent of the value of your car...so you wioll get a check for4000.00 dollars and you will need to pay the difference of the second loian you took out when you refied the car...what now???? suddenly...your not in such "good hands anymore"...now on my end...lets just say your car had 2000.00 dollars in damage and it will be repaired at my shop...they will pay 1500.00 dollars(cuz you have a 500.00 dollar deductable)toward the repair...it will cost me 1800.00 dollars to fix it but a suppliment is out of the question because we cant border on total we need the business so we will do the job.... we have sacrificed quality of repair now cuz we are forced to cut corners to make a profit...is that really fair??? no its not but its the way of the world and we are powerless to change it...getting tougher all the time
Hey maybe saying I was just as good as the best clear sprayer in the world was a little bit of an over exaggeration. You're still number one champ!
Maybe I'm an idiot but I don't understand how everyone gets screwed over by the insurance companies. Everyone pays ridiculous amounts of money to them by law and I thought they paid the body shops this money to fix the cars. I had to get 2 doors and one fender repaired through insurance and it was around $6500 dollars. Is the problem that insurance companies don't send the smaller shops the business? In the shop I used to work at we fixed up smashed cars and sold them on Kijiji, I thought that financially made sense as well.
Jeez I hope there's a place for me in this world as a painter because I may not be that good at it but it is my best skill. I work very hard everyday so I can get better.
anxiety attacks
way to go buddy...yknow...ive done it all now and im sure that there is many other things in the future that would challenge me...but...im ready to hand over my guns to the next generation...mayby you can take over...not a bad profession..just not steady enough in this economy to feel secure...and the biggest problem facing the industry is the insurance companys..they have the shop owners by the neck and I dont see a way out..you are either in bed with them or you starve...good luck
This isn't my first paint job and I have a tun of confidence in my clear spraying ability because I know that the only difference between me and the best clear painter on the planet is that I sometimes run. Unfortunately every time I've painted a complete I've had at least 1 problem that I had to solve and now I'm not scared of completes in the slightest. When I see a problem, right before my heart rate spikes and I freak out, I remember what my friend Martin told me. "I don't let those little things bring me down, don't get upset because it's not worth it". Actually on the last car I painted when water splashed out from a crevasse, it was almost like he was right beside me saying it right to my face. Sure enough I didn't panic, not even for one second.
I might be an amateur but I'm going to remember what Martin told me for as long as I paint and I think even a vet can improve if he says those words to himself out loud. It's called an affirmation and it's you're greatest offense against anxiety!
Pinting butterflies
hahahahaha...LOLOLOL....yeah..I have to admit that there is a mental aspect to painting big jobs...especially if its a high end vehicle and light metallic...always somethin!!!! LOL....but after a few thousand of them..you just accept the fact that there is nothing about what im doing that cant be repaired...so...if i get a run or if the metallic shows blotchies...i just need to fix it and go on...nervousness only adds to the problem...pretty technical for a guy who just does it sometimes and only needs to fix a problem sometimes..we can always overthink the project and get even more nervous...my advice...just do it !!!!LOL...and yeah..Maaco teaches completes well
|Brain you should of went to work for macco for a couple months a complete would no longer be a big thing but I know what you mean. Seems like when I want something to come out perfect I can screw something up. If I don't care and just go in and give it a quick one-two It looks like a show car.
I have never walked into a booth to spray a complete without being a nervous wreck, and I am talking about when I was painting every day for a living. Maybe it's just me, but that complete would kick my ars when I was done I felt like I had just ran a marathon! And the mental aspect, knowing that there are a million and one ways you can screw up just added to it. A few panels, a whole side, never thought a thing about it, wham bam done. But the complete, there was always a mental thing about that to overcome.
|I agree with you Brian..there is a lot to painting a complete..and yes..I have been painting for about 40 years so I do know a few things about paint...I simply assumed that the he wanted to paint the whole car...we dont know unless specified how far someone wants to go...therefore...no estimates without visuals LOL...but you are right..and yes...I shouldnt assume anything....thanks for your input...we hope not to confuse people here
polish vs. total clear
these guys are right...we would only do the hood and a blend into the fenders...much less work and a little detail for the rest of the car and most people would never know it was damaged..just be careful of your brand mixing...time may cause delamination of the clear if you do...yeah...keep it simple
|MartinSr is right on at the most all you would have to do is the hood and fenders and buff the rest of the car.
|This thread has more than 15 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.
|Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


text:
1968 Chevrolet Corvette Coupe
- Location:
- Schaumburg, IL 60173
- Exterior:
- Blue
- Interior:
- Blue
- Status:
- Expired
One of 771 Fuel Injected 375 Horsepower cars built in 1965. This was the last year of the "Fuelie" and happened to be the... More
2002 Chevrolet Corvette Convertible Black exterior with Light Oak power top and matching interior 5.7L V-8 engine with sequential fuel injection Four-speed automatic transmission and 2.73 gearing Corsa... More
1990 Chevrolet Corvette ZR-1 Two-owner Corvette Lotus designed all aluminum double overhead cam 375HP LT5 engine First model year for C4 generation ZR-1 model Car's MSRP was $60,590... More
1965 Chevrolet Corvette Convertible Movie car – played a celebrity role in the 2009 "Star Trek" film Chevrolet 327 CID V-8 Four-speed manual transmission Four-wheel disc brakes Maroon exterior... More
Up for sale is our ALL ORIGINAL 1972 corvette LT-1 convertible! it comes with a NUMBERS MATCHING 350CI SPECIAL HI-PERFORMANCE ENGINE! the heads are also... More
All restored 1966 Corvette Convertible! this car is in a stunning condition it comes with a MATCHING NUMBERS 327ci engine! runs very nice and strong 4 speed manual the... More
Two owners with only 4,812 miles since new Highly Original Condition Rare 6-speed manual transmission (1 of 55) 5.7/345 HP LS1 engine Loaded with factory power options 100% Original paint, convertible top, Tires and... More
You are looking at a Clean Low Mile 1992 Chevrolet Corvette with a clean and clear title, no accidents, and has been well taken... More
This is a great looking 1994 Chevrolet Corvette! The paint and interior have been well taken care of. The mechanics of the car seem... More
This 1979 L82 Corvette has recently had the motor completely rebuilt (only 300 miles on the build), newer paint, and a very clean interior.... More
Take a look at the most popular C5 Corvette out there. Its the true 2003 Corvette 50th Anniversary Convertible with only 49,000 miles! Auto... More
This 1978 Corvette is a very clean believed to be 21000 actual mile car (some documentation available) the L82 Package with the 4-speed transmission... More
Spectacular Ruby Red/Red Leather/Two Tops in SHOWROOM NEW CONDITION! Exterior: Ruby Red Metallic Interior: Red Leather Tops" Soft Black Convertible Top Hardtop: Removable Auxilliary Hardtop Mileage:17,615 Serial Number: 1G1YY33P4P5106026 Judged NCRS... More
Click on the link below to view a walk around video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H5-C53wYXJM... More
2001 Corvette Z06 - WITH BOTH EARNHARDT SIGNATURES This car has a very unique history starting with it being the first YELLOW Z06 off assembly... More


text:
Hey Gang,
Been a while, but I'm back at it with Jango. Just finished up the basic paint job on the Jet pack (pictured here) and I'm at the point my OCD kicks in. So, Here's my question for the group. Does anyone have the measurements for the flat black stripes widths and spacing for the upper and lower nacelles, the area just below the rocket warhead and the large stripe on the top of the yellow main cylinder? This may have been spoken on elsewhere, but my search comes up with nada. I had thought about taking a stab in the dark, but after looking around I noted most of the jet packs out there exhibit uniformity on stripe size. Thanks again.


text:
- Home
- News
- Sports
- Opinion
- Obituaries
- Features
- Special Sections
- Classifieds
- Public Notices
This week's adventure is on the sweet side and is one of my favorite cakes to make.
The main component of this cake is Oreo cookies. For many fans of the Oreo, I could probably stop right there and they already are hooked.
As a fan of this delicious chocolate sandwich cookie, I like adding it to pretty much anything sweet from cookies to brownies and especially ice cream.
This recipe is very easy and the result is Oreo delight.
It is from a cookbook in the Cake Mix Doctor series by Anne Byrn. Each recipe in these books begins with a cake mix. Other things are added to the mix to create yummy desserts including cookies, brownies, dessert bars and other cakes.
This one starts with a white cake mix.
For the cookie crumbs, I did not pull out the food processor to crush the cookies. Instead, the cookies were sealed in a freezer bag and crushed with a rolling pin. It's a little easier than dragging out the processor and having to clean it.
This is a cake I take to many gatherings. I have made the four-layer version in the recipe and, to save time, have kept it two layers. Sometimes the four-layer cake tends to slide around because of the whipped cream icing between the layers.
One time it turned out so lopsided and ugly I didn't think anyone would eat it. Never underestimate the power of the Oreo — there wasn't a crumb left.
This particular cake also can be called "award winning" because it won a cake competition at work one year.
After icing, I usually add cookies around the bottom of the cake. Carefully twist the cookie to have two halves. After resisting the temptation to lick the icing from the middle — remember you're going to share this with others after all — place cookie halves around the bottom of the cake until they encircle it.
Because of the whipped cream icing, I usually store this cake in the refrigerator. This process also softens the cookies around the bottom, making it easy to slice through them.
The result is a delicious cake guaranteed to please. In fact, make sure you get a piece before serving it. If you wait, there might be none left.
Most of the time, the cake plate goes home empty and often has been scraped clean. It's that yummy.
Becca Owsley can be reached at (270) 505-1741 or email@example.com.
Cookies and cream cake
18 chocolate sandwich cookies, additional if needed
Solid vegetable shortening for greasing the pans
Flour for dusting the pans
1 package white cake mix with pudding
1 cup water
1/2 cup vegetable oil
3 large eggs
2 cups heavy whipping cream
Place chocolate sandwich cookies in batches in a food processor and process until you have crumbs. You should have 2 1/4 cups crumbs. If not, process more cookies until you have the correct amount. Set aside.
Place a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Generously grease two 9-inch round cake pans with solid vegetable shortening, then dust with flour. Shake out excess flour and set pans aside.
Combine cake mix, water, oil and eggs in a large mixing bowl. Blend with an electric mixer on low speed for 1 minute. Stop the machine and scrape down sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula. Increase mixer speed to medium and beat 2 minutes more, scraping sides again as needed. The batter should look well blended. Fold in one cup of cookie crumbs until well distributed. Divide the batter evenly between the prepared pans, smoothing out with the rubber spatula. Place pans side by side in the oven.
Place a clean, large mixing bowl and clean electric mixer beaters in the refrigerator while the cake bakes. You will use these to prepare the whipped cream icing.
Bake the cakes 28 to 32 minutes, until they spring back when lightly pressed with your finger. Remove the pans from the oven and place on wire racks to cool for 10 minutes. Run a dinner knife around the edge of each layer and invert onto a rack, then invert again onto another rack so cakes are right side up. Allow to cool completely, 30 minutes more.
Prepare whipped cream icing. Remove the chilled bowl and beaters from the refrigerator. Pour cream into the bowl and beat with electric mixer on high for 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 minutes, until stiff peaks form. Gently fold in one cup of remaining cookie crumbs, distributing well. Chill the whipped cream until the cake has cooled completely.
Carefully slice the cake layers in half horizontally using a large, sharp, serrated knife or a long piece of unflavored dental floss to create four layers. Place the bottom half of a cake layer on a serving platter, cut side up. Spread with some of the whipped cream. Top with the matching top half of the layer, top side down. Spread with whipped cream. Next, add the bottom half of the second layer, cut side up and spread with whipped cream. Top with the matching top half of the layer, cut side down. Spread the top and sides of the entire cake with remaining whipped cream using clean, smooth stokes.
Sprinkle the remaining 1/4 cup of cookie crumbs on top of the cake. Place the cake in a cake saver and chill until time to serve.
Store this cake in a cake saver or lightly covered with waxed paper in the refrigerator for up to five days.
SOURCE: "The Chocolate Cake Mix Doctor" by Anne Byrn
Add new comment
Read and share your thoughts on this story


text:
Cindi by far has earned that pat on the bag
Looking forward to the unveiling of the new "title." It would be great if it was unique to Cindi (and not just to number of posts) because I think, well, she is unique. Thank you Cindi for your heartfelt presence, thank you BeeMaster for your recognition of it.


text:
Cracking the Nut: Sustainable Sourcing for Agricultural Supply Chains
Tuesday, June 25, 2013 at 8:30 AM - Wednesday, June 26, 2013 at 5:45 PM (CEST)
Cracking the Nut 2012: Sustainable Sourcing for Agricultural Supply Chains
June 25-26, 2013 | 8:30AM-5:45PM EST
Dresden, Germany
Cracking the Nut is a first-class global conference for multinational companies, investors, and development practitioners, bringing together private and public institutions to increase collaboration and investment in sustainable rural and agricultural markets.
Cracking the Nut 2013 will give an exclusive look into the successes and challenges involved in global supply chains. We will be focusing on companies that are creating long-term social and economic value through their sustainability initiatives. As a private sector led discussion, the conference will highlight best practices for sustainable sourcing to help participating companies, along with development and finance organizations, to align their initiatives in a way that leverages resources for increasing social impact. The conference will also feature a dynamic panel session where leading impact investors will go head to head with agricultural entrepreneurs to provide insight into how they assess real investment opportunities aligned with sustainable sourcing.
Cracking the Nut 2013 will showcase competitively selected best practices through three focused themes:
Don't Miss Out!
Please note the following:
Payment: Payment must be received within 30 days of registration or by the ticket sale end date (whichever comes first) or your registration will be cancelled. Payment for regular registration must be received by May 31, 2013 in order to confirm registration.
Cancellation Policy: Payment is non-refundable but can be transferred to another individual.
AZMJ's mission is to provide high quality global consulting services to transform international development and build local capacity.
Based outside of Washington, DC, AZMJ provides a broad range of consulting and investment advisory services related to financial and enterprise development. For more information, please visit www.azmj.org.
In order to purchase these tickets in installments, you'll need an Eventbrite account. Log in or sign up for a free account to continue.


text:
As a proven performer in the oil and gas industry, ABB continues to expand its industrial solutions for the
hydrocarbon supply chain, encompassing production, processing, transportation, storage and distribution.
This channel will be used to distribute and promote our press releases, success stories, events, and to establish ABB as a discussion partner and source for expert opinions on Oil&Gas topics.
Improving the capacity and life span of oil and gas fields


text:
Schleich Animals, Horses, Wildlife, Knights, Dinosaurs and Toys
Wonderland Models are an Official UK Retailer, Stockist and Main Dealer specialising in entire range of Schleich Farm Animals and Knights on sale, all at discount prices.
Our Schleich Toys range of bargains and special offers consists of all kinds of Schleich toys, Schleich farms, horses, knights, accessories and much more. We offer a wide range from all leading categories including Schleich Wild Animals, Schleich European Animals, Schleich Knights and many more. Our mailorder department delivers Schleich toys worldwide with many orders coming from Europe and beyond. We also have a wide range of Papo animals and figures including accessories and Wooden Castles. To view the full range of Schleich Toys see below.
New Schleich 2017
Buildings | Dogs | Farm Animals | Farm Accessories | Horses | Horse Riding Sets | People | Pets | Vehicles
Wildlife | Accessories and Buildings | Africa | America | Arctic and Antarctic | Asia and Australia | Europe | Ocean | People | Plants and Trees | Vehicles
Prehistoric Animals
The World of Knights
Castles | Knights
World of Fantasy
Bayala | Dragons, Unicorns and Pegasus | Vehicles and Buildings
World of History
New Heroes
DC Comics


text:
JP, I have been wondering where your videos have been. I just did a removal where the girls were making a home on the inside of a septic tank. Folks around here have the aerobic type and they have risers, well the old lid had gotten damaged and the home owner just covered it with plywood. The ladies found a way in and BAM! home stinky home. Good thing it did not take to long to get them out of there.
Those some stanky bees though right? :-D...JP


text:
Printable View
Very nice! thumbs up bro!
Beautiful!!! Why is it only almost nearly finished??? Looks great to me!!! :cheers
Stunning! I really like those gaunts!
According to George Lucas, movies are never really finished they are abandoned or escape or something I forget the exact quote. According to a TDH Fett costumer, a Fett is never finished it always has room for upgrades and improvements. That's part of where I came up with my screen name, a Fett is a never ending project.
Looks AWESOME bro!!! :thumbsup
Looking good.
Not sure about what the 501st require, but I am not going for that. I am just trying to get the whole thing as accurate as possible. The thing sticking in my claw right now is the vest and neck seal. I haven't seen a screen accurate one available yet, including what is pictured here and the various other versions in my closet. I am trying to commission them locally.
That looks awesome mate. The weathering is top notch! And your right though it's never truly finished.....:lol
Very nice job brother...your project stirs up a question I have had for a while...
How many hoses are connected to the right Gauntlet?? I thought two or is it three, are they supposed to be the connections that are side by side and and the one straight down from the darts or just two...is yours screen accurate?? Trust me, I am not criticizing, I am asking so I know which is correct. Thanks in advance for any info.
You have some very nice detail....WOW - Outstanding BF - I only hope mine is as nice...
Nope. I need to add that third hose. It's on my list. Another reason its "almost nearly finished." :DQuote:
is yours screen accurate??
You have some very nice detail....WOW - Outstanding BF - I only hope mine is as nice...[/QUOTE]
Hands down still the best ROTJ paint work i've ever seen to date, IMO.
Fantastic work! One of the best I've ever seen!
I want to see more pics of the gauntlets and jetpack...since I don't have pics of them and I painted them....
That must be one of the best ROTJs I've seen! WOW!
that is one of the best Fetts I have ever seen!! Kudos to you!!
AWESOME :thumbsup I love seeing a Fett completed. Beautiful job. You have accomplished something a lot of people start, but seldom finish.
great work! I appreciate you posting such well detailed and lighted pics for those of us working on our own.


text:
'"Look at all the guys leaving every year. I'm pretty sure that some guys will put that in their good side, bad side. When (you) want to sign somewhere, you look at everything. Those (things) are very important when you're a free agent."'
Former Sabre Dumont questions Buffalo's management tactics
February 29, 2008 Submitted by
Via: Olean Times Herald


text:
|Members List
|Today's Posts
|Mark Forums Read
|Photo Gallery
greatlakes4x4.com is the premier Great Lakes 4x4 Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
|Thread Tools
|Search this Thread
|September 20th, 2011, 12:31 PM
Direct Drive FTW
Best way to build centered housing axle.
I am building a rig from the ground up and need some fj62 axle advise. I have a set of 87 fj62 axles.
I after much kicking and screaming I finally realized I needed to changed my transfer to a atlas2 with a center output. I still Like the fj-62 parts availability and the strong 4.11 3rd of the fj62 axle over other guys. I keep going back and forth the best way to actually build this centered housing axle. I admit I don't know much about Toyota's except that these axles are dang impressive. I have always been more of a Chevy, Ford, Jeep guy and am now realizing how Nice some of these Toyota parts are.
I like the 4.11 gearing it works real nice with the 465/atlas2 and could see myself getting a spare stock 3rd set just in case with the 4.11 gearing.
My current plan involves getting a 58" Housing from diamond, installing Longs, a full floater kit, a disk break upgrade, using the old 9.5 4.11 carrier that I have, and installing some type of selectable locker.
I am also looking to beef the Breaks on this thing with larger calipers. I am looking to drive the heck out of this with something that I can submerge in mud during the weekend and still rely on to stop me while cruising down the highway. I don't need e breaks in the rear I will fab up some type of transfer case e break.
I would like to keep maintenance cost down on this by using for instance the cheaper style rotors and some beefy calipers with low cost pads to stop this thing and would not mind replacing the pads every year or freak if I had to replace the rotors at the same time.
As far as the front axle goes it is dang near perfect. I could see using it as mock up at the very least. For the money of sending it out for a proper cut and turn I might just upgrade to a beefier 60" front housing from diamond. I could see installing some longs and rebuilding the hubs in the front housing and calling it good.
What I am looking for is some advise on what would be the best route to go about this. And for that matter what would be the best parts to use. I plan on running 35" tires on 16x10" aluminum rims with no offset. But, I am going to be running this a bit hard through the woods mostly sliding down hills full of leaves and mud into trees and such. Most of my wheeling has been done down this trail cause it is so close. Don't worry it is a 8 mile long trail I made over the years on private property it is just really easy to slide into stuff and with the tires sticking out 3" from the body they will take a good amount of beating. I tread lightly I just end up using trees to bounce me back onto this trail. When on other trails I stick to others tracks.
The axles will be getting slid into or ran into things left and right, I need good hubs and bearings, so I'm not rebuilding them every weekend. I could see rebuilding the hubs/bearings every year around October as long as it is not out of the world expensive.
I think I am alright going with the stock knuckles with 35" tires but am here for advise so toss it at me on these.
Would I be better off strength>cost wise building this myself with the best parts from A, B, and C off road or simply mailing my 3rd to Diamond, or just giving diamond a call and saying "this is what I want"?
I have hydraulics on top of ride-tech air ride on top of long arms for the suspension. So there would not be any need for a ARB compressor that would add to the axle cost.
I don't want to just waist money but do realize good stuff is not cheap. If I could get away building the rear for under $2500(with the selectable locker) and the front under $2000 I would be really pleased.
Just looking for the best way (and best parts for the money) to go about building these axles. Thanks for any advise In advance.
|September 20th, 2011, 01:51 PM
Covered in mud...
For 35s, there's no reason to go through quite so much trouble.
35s will not hurt standard mini truck stuff.
Use a standard front, with either 1.5" spacers, or IFS hubs, and you'll be at 58.5-59" wide. The 86+ rear housing is strong, and 58" wide, and centered already.
Don't get me wrong, diamond axles are pimp. But if you are big enough to need them, you need more width. 35s are nothing on toys.
4.10s are the standard gears, and you can bring a stock 3rd member with you. There are factory low and high pinion e-lockers available from TRD tacomas/4 runners, and FJ80 fronts, respectively, which came also with 4.10s.
The rear axle needs nothing. factory 4.10s are very strong, as are the shafts. I completely abused mine with 1.5" spacers (to make it 61" wide) with heavy 38.5 swamper SXs. The shafts are very very strong.
For a front, a 84-85 housing, 1.5" spacers, 59" wide. Upgrade to longfield 30 splines. Upgrade to ARP knuckle Studs and high steer arms. The factory aisin hubs are plenty strong for 35s. For peace of mind, ARB hub studs and chrome moly hub gears are nice. I didn't use them with 36s, no failures. Upgraded when I went to 38.5s.
Brakes: Nice way is up front, use 88+ 'V6' calipers (have fins on them), and ~1980-ish FJ40 (vented rotors). With 15" rims, you usually have to grind, they should clear 16" rims fine. Now take your front rotors and old calipers and put them on the rear, using some bolt-on brackets. This, with a dual diaphram booster and 1" master easily could lock my 38.5s, and they are all factory parts available at the store.
I have built a custom toyota housing, I believe I have a post on here about it, but the pics are gone. Its not TOO hard, but you need a welder, lathe, metal saws, alignment bar and pucks, etc.
IMO, you don't need custom housings for that width, 35s, and a lightweight Jeep. These are very strong axles for their size.
LOL, I'm been rough on you some times but not out of spite, just the questioning engineer in me.
If you wanted to go with mini truck axles, let me know, I have a set that'd work great for you, very cheap. (I have an 85 front, 87 rear, 4.10s in them.) I was going to use them in my fiberglass CJ3b, but between my Scramber, and my hot-rod CJ6 project, I have no time for the old flattie....
|September 20th, 2011, 04:30 PM
Direct Drive FTW
Yea those hilux parts are impressive and I went back and forth looking at them and the many options they have. That break setup sounds like a very strong reliable idea. I have seen other guys talking about upgrading to vented calipers.
Dropping the 9.5 for a 8" seems like the wrong direction. Which is why I dismissed it earlier on. The 9.5 is far from perfect being a pain to set up correctly. It is sure not something I want to do in a hurry so I can be to work on Monday. Won't I need to go to cryo r/p if I use the 8". This takes the whole stock replacement 3rd idea and tosses it out the window if I need to setup a beefier r/p using the 8".
The whole idea about Building the center rear housing was so that I could use the 9.5 3rd. The front really does not need a beefier housing I was just looking at the cost of sending out the stock housing for a professional cut and turn and for like $400 more I can upgrade to a thicker housing while doing the cut/turn from diamond that would not need all the gusseting.
I don't see myself buying a lathe any time soon. They take up a lot of space, cost a lot, and I don't see myself using it more then once or twice a year. I had a industrial press drill in my last garage. I was all gun ho when I got it but after like a month of use it was just in the way.
Don't get me wrong I'm totally interested and heck the additional clearance of the 8" is nice. I'm just a little weary about chucking the 9.5 3rd for a 8". When I first started looking at Toyota axles a 85 hilux was top of the list. It just did not work with the ps/ps drop I had planned at the time and the fj62 seemed to be the perfect fix while being stronger.
The hp8" in the front would further help with clearance and I looked at going with a 8"front/9.5 rear because of it when looking at making the ps/ps setup. I decided against it because I tend to run more rpm's in reverse spinning the wheels faster to walk out after getting stuck and the 9.5 is stronger in reverse. With the 4.10/4.11 not really being a concern. It is still something I am considering if I don't use the 9.5 in the front.
|September 20th, 2011, 06:08 PM
Direct Drive FTW
Actually this thing is turning out to be a whole lot of heavy. It should be around 5800 lbs total. That is on the heavy side and I'm doing my best moving stuff around in the small space so that it will be close to a 55f/45r distribution. It has a dual layer suspension and a dual cage providing a extremely safe/capable on/off road ride. This is a very small rig but sure as heck wont be no buggy.
|September 22nd, 2011, 08:54 AM
Covered in mud...
If you would be 5800 lbs, I'd go get a set of FJ80 axles and run them. Thats an ungodly amount of weight.
For 35s, the 8" diffs seem to hold up just fine. Look at what the Ftoys.
5800lbs is ridiculous. You know that any minimal beenfit to the crazy suspension is gone due to that weight. You'll sink in everything, and have not enough power to get wheelspeed.
A leaf sprung 4 cyl jeep would wheel better than that thing. Seriously, would wheel circles around it.
|September 22nd, 2011, 11:14 AM
Senior Member
Join Date: 11-11-06
Location: White Lake/Wixom
Posts: 2,401
iTrader: (8)
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Brakes: Nice way is up front, use 88+ 'V6' calipers (have fins on them), and ~1980-ish FJ40 (vented rotors). With 15" rims, you usually have to grind, they should clear 16" rims fine. Now take your front rotors and old calipers and put them on the rear, using some bolt-on brackets. This, with a dual diaphram booster and 1" master easily could lock my 38.5s, and they are all factory parts available at the store.
Haggar what do you have to grind to clear 15" rims? The calipers? Who sells the brackets for the rear disc? What did the booster & master cyl come from? I am thinking about pulling the 35's off my Bronco and putting them on my 85 4Runner and need to redo the brakes anyway.
|September 22nd, 2011, 12:46 PM
Covered in mud...
Great Lakes 4x4. The largest offroad forum in the Midwest - View Single Post - Rear disc breaks on the Cheap
Great Lakes 4x4. The largest offroad forum in the Midwest - View Single Post - Rear disc breaks on the Cheap
I had to grind the fins a little bit on the calipers. There are other applications for the master and booster. The toy stuff was all bolt in. There are tundra applications as well.
|September 22nd, 2011, 01:32 PM
Flex Is OverRated
Join Date: 11-19-06
Location: Battle Creek
Posts: 2,695
iTrader: (7)
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Imo fror's taco brake kit is the way to go on toyota solid axles. Bigger brakes and easier to change broken parts. You could even use first gen tundra stuff in place of the taco stuff for even more stoping power.
|September 22nd, 2011, 05:17 PM
R&V Ranger
Join Date: 10-09-06
Location: Beaverton/ Edenville,mi
Posts: 1,033
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
you can always save your money and run the stock housing with a cv on the driveshaft...same route I am doing with an fj80 rear...Collin(from GA.) has been running one for a while in his Taco that way and no problems...daily drives it too
|September 22nd, 2011, 11:27 PM
Direct Drive FTW
The weight estimate breaks down like this.
700 1.75 .120/.250 Body/cage(280 feet with tabs/brackets)
300 3/4" Hdpe Body(removable exterior panels/glass)
400 3/4" Uhmwpe Body (non removable panels)
650 Motor(with accessories)
100 Oil system/Fire suppression system
250 Trans/bell
200 Transfer/shafts
400 Frame/reinforcement/tabs
400 Tri link linkage/axle protection/Hydro linkage/Steering
400 Hydro (cylinders, pumps, controls, etc)
200 Air(tank,bags, controls)
150 20 gal Lp Fuel/tanks
400 5 Tires/rims
500 Axles/bracing
200 Air Seats/Audio system
300 Recovery items/winch
250 other
5800 Total
Removable Body Modifications that will change weight over 300 standard weight.
Over lander setup with additional spare,additional 20 gal fuel, and 80 lb of supplies.
3/4" Hdpe Security panels replacing doors/glass
1/8"-3/4" Steel security panels replacing doors/glass for long term parking
Door modifications that will change 60 lb HD tube door with power windows weight
Plexiglass door(15lb with hinge/locks)
Tube door w net/lock
|September 23rd, 2011, 12:49 AM
Direct Drive FTW
The 80 housings are not cheap and would require bracing to come close to what diamond could offer. Yes I get the floater, a selectable locker, and one beefy 3rd. But, I want this to be 70" outside tire to outside tire. A stock 80 would be wider then I want requiring custom wheels with a offset that would have me hitting the hubs into things. I could see dropping $1500 into buying a stock 80, upgrading the breaks, shafts, shortening, and rebuilding it.
Beefing a 8" makes a lot more sense then using a 80 to me.
Actually the more I look at the 8" setup that Jesus mentioned the better it looks. Think I will end up upgrading the r/p anyway for security over wondering how many miles the old had. The hp front would avoid vibration issues and I always see there always being a aftermarket for it.
I just don't know the amount of gusseting(that may deform the housing) would be required for the weight or If I would be better off just going with a thicker housing from diamond that would eliminate any need for gusseting.
|September 23rd, 2011, 12:50 AM
Direct Drive FTW
The 80 housings are not cheap and would require bracing to come close to what diamond could offer. Yes I get the floater, a selectable locker, and one beefy 3rd. But, I want this to be 70" outside tire to outside tire. A stock 80 would be wider then I want requiring custom wheels with a offset that would have me hitting the hubs into things. I could see dropping $1500 into buying a stock 80, upgrading the breaks, shafts, shortening, and rebuilding it.
Beefing a 8" makes a lot more sense then using a 80 to me.
Actually the more I look at the 8" setup that (edit) mentioned the better it looks. Think I will end up upgrading the r/p anyway for security over wondering how many miles the old had. The hp front would avoid vibration issues and I always see there always being a aftermarket for it.
I just don't know the amount of gusseting(that may deform the housing) would be required for the weight or If I would be better off just going with a thicker housing from diamond that would eliminate any need for gusseting.
Last edited by cerial; September 23rd, 2011 at 12:54 AM. Reason: you changed haggars name
|September 23rd, 2011, 05:11 AM
expert jeep disassembler
Join Date: 08-28-08
Location: kent city mi
Posts: 8,005
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
What are you using the 1 3/4 .250 for on your cage? Why do you need 700# worth of 3/4" plastic for the body? It seems like you are trying so hard to make this thing indestructible that you are actually going backwards. The less weight you have the less stress on all your components. Your thought process; I need to beef up the body to prevent damage, wow that is heavy I need bigger components to handle the weight, Damn now that shit weighs more I need to beef up the body a bit more, Damn now I need bigger axles to handle the extra weight, exc..... Stop thinking like an engineer and spend some time going to offroad parks and competitions and check out the rigs that work. You think waaaaay to much!
|September 23rd, 2011, 07:50 AM
Covered in mud...
Lot of those weights are pretty silly anyway. V6 engine = 425 lbs, not 650.
700lb body and 1100 frame/cage.
1000 lb suspension.
Its utterly crazy. And won't work worth a crap. And *will* be far more breakage/failure prone, due to excess weight and complexity.
Should go the exact other way:
150 1.75 .120 cage(60 feet with tabs/brackets)
350 Fiberglass body, steel front clip.
300 2.4 ecotec Motor(with accessories)
100 Trans/bell
120 Transfer/shafts
200 Frame/reinforcement/tabs
120 lbs links and air shocks
100lbs gas tank + 15 gallons
400 5 Tires/rims
500 Jeep XJ Axles or Toyota Axles
100 Suspension Seats/Audio system
150 Recovery items/winch
250 other (battery, radiator, exhaust)
2840 lbs wet.
It would be more reliable, and wheel better, and get better economy, and actually fit inside a Jeep body.
You are adding weight/materials just on the notion that more = better.
5800 Total
|September 23rd, 2011, 07:07 PM
Direct Drive FTW
When I first started this build I was going to get a repi tub toss it on and restore this thing. That's why I went out a day after buying it and bought a dauntless after finding it had a 231 under the hood incited of the 225. It is also the reason I bought a Myers top and doors. The fj62 axles were the only drive train Mod I planned because they were close to the original 55" size and the spring mounts were close making them perfect as a 3/4 ton alternative to a 44.
Then I started thinking about rust. I did not want to paint this thing every 5 years cause I actually drove it year round. So the steel was out. Then yea I looked at fiberglass. But then I thought back to what I plan on using this for; woods wheeling. Where branches are dragging the sides and I could see that pretty fiberglass body becoming a hanging shattered mess of fibers real quick.
There was also the safety factor. Super light glass bodies are great. But, in a accident they are worthless. There is 15" between the outside of the door to the inside of the cage. The seat sits in about half of that space. In a accident more then half the driver would be crushed. To fix this you toss a 150 lb 3" thick tube underneath held in by 8 bolts and for some reason that is ok.
So I looked for something that would be rustproof yet I would not freak if a soccer mom slammed her door into it. The composite bodies I found were poor at best. And the idea of a plastic panels using a exo skin seemed like it could be made easily enough. Originally, I had a basic family cage in mind. Cutting out the rear upright so that the glass could slide in/out then welding tabs so it could be bolted in to hold the glass seemed like a good idea. In a roll over this area would crush down but with no passengers it was not really a concern. I decided I would make a tube lift gate that would reinforce the weak rear uprights and be able to slide the glass out the bottom for the back. The trouble came when I wanted to have the roof slide out to make a safari. I could not go out the back the tailgate would need a spot to hinge. Not to mention all the cross bracing. So I came up with the idea of a removable bar at the top of the windshield. Once this was slid out the drivers side sideways the roof could be removed and the windshield could also if I ever felt the need.
This tubing had 1/8 "tabs" that hold on the 3/4" panels in a tongue and grove setup. This allows me to slide different panels in or out. The 3/4" panels have the tab on the inside and mount flush to the outside of the tube letting 1/8" hang over the pipe . the 1/8" glass has the tabs surrounding it.
But the body/frame consisted of 2 profile outside tubes. With no cross bracing it would fold over. So I started adding cross bracing. The idea of incorporating the wheel wells into the cross bracing lead me to add panels on them and the floor. Before long the entire tub was a series of tubes on the profile that would be welded to the frame.
I have ripped my fair share of fender flares off. And see guys welding up these heavy tube fenders and knew there could be a better way. I came up with the idea of retractable fenders. Think of a flat fender. Now put flat panels under the fender that are on a track that slide in. Boom retractable fenders. You have the ability to push them in for areas that would crush them or pull them out to catch mud or just be legal on the road. I'm a automation freak and I seen a window motor as the perfect method to push rods and push out the fenders. Well because those fenders are now lower you need to raise them so the tube idea went to the hood. While I was there I thought why not make the hood tilt forward. Why not make it tilt forward 180 degrees so it could serve as a workstation instead of the tight trunk area. So I decided on a 2" tall hood with arms that would slide forward to serve as feet after they were unlocked. Well then I thought of the windshield wipers. These tiny things are a insult in the mud but how could you improve them. euro wipers would leave a huge V in the middle. I went back and forth then noticed a rear wiper on a suv that was moving 180 degrees. After a lot of failed designs. I came up with the idea of a track that had 2 wheels at the bottom that would look like well (oIo) this track would have a normal wiper under it to keep pressure on it then I would have a second track on the upright section (I) that the 180 wiper would turn. It would allow the wiper to cover dang near the entire windshield left to right leaving just the outside few inches. Well I really wanted this to work But I could see the track filling full of ice if it was just placed under the windshield out in the open. So the hood was moved back and the tub area there lowered covering the track of the windshield system. So at this point I had pretty much slightly changed then entire shape of the tub and looked back at the cage. After looking at a lot of crashes from cages that"worked" seeing most of them fail after 1 or 2 rolls I decided a spider like "inner cage" would guarantee I would not end up dead.
The inner cage has the only .250 on a pillars to prevent the top from forcing the tubing into the driver. Because the outer cage has the removable cross brace there.
You seen me talk about the tank thing worried about clearance and settled on raising the floor to make it work before deciding propane would be dependable low cost fix compared to FI.
This whole propane thing was a hard kick to the balls. But, I learned a lot from you guys. While looking at the propane thing I dabbled into other aftermarket parts for the dauntless finding next to nothing. OK no big it is dang near perfect no need to mess with it. Lets look at rebuilding it though. ok 800-1000 in parts not including the crank. Surly my trusty scat can help. no only for the 231 it is different. ok well long story A 350 was looking better and better and finding crate engines or even a 350 anywhere for around $500 t seemed like a good idea. Well, while I'm at it why not just spend some more and consider a torque monster. Humm the t-14 surly wont handle that so I looked to my t-18 that I have used behind 460's without any issue. Then the transfer case became the issue. ok so I will ditch that and go with a atlas. Oh but now that I did that the t-18 wont work so I guess a 465 is a better choice. But now that I have this great Power train I need to move the rear housing to a center. Which is where we are now.
So yea totaling it all up the weight is a issue. And I am being a huge hypocrite because for years I have been giving people beef about bolt on armor, tube fenders, using heavy engines knowing what the end result would be.
So I have a dilemma. I have a lot into tools but as far as the jeep goes I really have not done jack to it except get the 231 to run for a bit. Between the jeep itself for a grand, the 25k 225 dauntless that I paid a grand for, the 350 top/doors, the rebuilt jeep/ford t-18 that I got down south for 400. I have about 3 grand invested.
I have like 5k in tools but I'm not counting them cause I am sure i would buy them anyway later.
The whole idea of building a rig is to have something someone else does not. Any yahoo can follow others cookie cutter plans and make a copy of there rig.
But, heck if I wanted a rig like everyone else I would just but the dang thing already built saving a lot of cash in the process.
Honestly though I am saving up for a house and this toy is going to cost me a lot of money. I have thought a few times about just buying someones rig completed and forgetting about this. I'm trying to have my cake and eat it also. Making a comfy luxury suv into a off road project is something that is really hard. Heck I could get a sweet driver and a pos that I could rag around in without worrying about it like I have done in the past for less then what this thing will cost.
Eventually you just need to see when the thing does not make sense.
This thing started out as a replacement for Goliath.
Goliath was a truck style buggy on unmodified 5 tons using a center mounted transverse Honda 1.8 motor. Top speed like faster then I dare to go. No transfer case needed with the light weight aluminum civic motor/trans and coil sprung rocks with a 9.whatever ratio running on whatever tires I found laying around. With like 700 pounds of un sprung weight including my butt and fuel I could fly over anything that got in the way. With like a 22/1 low ratio it was not a crawler in any sense. More of a runner death trap that I hoped I never rolled. But, as far as something that was bulletproof and a easy first rig it seemed to fit. Best of all I was looking at like 2k total investment(unmodified rocks/high mileage rust bucked mid 90's civic).
I just tried to make something that was a double duty and yea it got out of control.
Heck, with all the shiny tools I have in boxes I'm pretty sure I could make Goliath in under a weekend If I set out the parts before hand.
Will take a step back on this and do some thinking. Sorry for all the stupid questions in thinking this project up. It is all part of the noob learning process.
|September 23rd, 2011, 09:04 PM
R&V Ranger
Join Date: 10-09-06
Location: Beaverton/ Edenville,mi
Posts: 1,033
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Diamonds are nice but why go through that money for an 8" 3rd(it comes as a bare housing and all the little crap adds up quick...you will end up with a 2k rear axle)...be cheaper getting the TG housings and gaining some clearance
|September 23rd, 2011, 09:20 PM
expert jeep disassembler
Join Date: 08-28-08
Location: kent city mi
Posts: 8,005
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
I think you should make a mini brewery in there in case you need a beer and then a boot dryer in case you step in a puddle and what if you need a hair cut? This is x to da z xzibit and you've been pimped!
|September 24th, 2011, 02:28 PM
Direct Drive FTW
Currently working with a earlier fast back design and reworking the heck out of it. This has the entire back of the rig open behind the driver letting me run 20 gallons of propane and a full spare of any size easily while having room for a extra 2 tanks and a second spare. The frame is not going to be used. Leaving the entire 1969 jeep untouched. Instead I am going with a slim downed cage that still lets me use the removable panel idea(no removable windshield). This raises a security issue with the tanks and spare being out in the open. But the "security" panels were meant to only be used when long term parked and I am sure I can make some kind of system that I can leave at the house and will bolt on.
Updated weights.
650 1.75x.120 Body/cage/windshield/frame 280 feet with tabs/brackets
180 3/8" Hdpe Body(removable exterior panels)
120 1/8" Uhmwpe Body (non removable panels)
600 350(with accessories)(less then 250ft/lb)using for easy low cost replacement
200 465 Trans/cast bell
150 Dana 18 Transfer/shafts
150 Tri link/Steering
300 Coil overs/shocks(estimate)
160 20 pounds of propane 2 tanks(will double with 4 for long trips)
400 5 Tires/rims
500 Axles/bracing
200 Air Seats/Audio system
200 Recovery items/winch
200 Other-sure I am leaving out a lot
4010 Total
Still seems heavy as heck considering what I took out. But, by using a stock like truck 350 ($500-1k replacement cost) with torque of less then 250 I wont worry about breaking the Dana 18 letting me have the overdrive and keeping the ps drop that I really wanted. This is still very safe letting me rub trees while costing 9k less then the air/hydro/atlas and crate engine setup.
|axles, cerial, fj62, overcomplicateseverything, project pj, toyota
|Thread Tools
|Search this Thread


text:
I would check the plugs, especially if it started right after you changed them. Check and make sure all the plug wires are down good, and recheck your gaps. Look and make sure you don't just have a defective plug.
Took out the plugs to gap. They only had a few hundred miles. They were black like charcole. Would tht mean i have a bad plug ?
Doesn't black plugs indicate running rich (=increased gas consumption)?
Yeah . I still have the same plugs in the box where i took em out at. They are the same type plugs as i took out. Dont know how to tell heat range though.


text:
Welcome! Thank you for your interest in volunteering. The Longhorn Center for Civic Engagement database will allow you to find the best volunteer opportunities based on your preferences.
Please Log In
You must be logged in to save favorites. If you have previously registered, please login below. Otherwise, you can register for an account. Registration is free and only takes a few minutes.
Login to track your volunteer hours, see inquiries, and view events.
You can also change details of your account once logged in.
Contact The Longhorn Center for Civic Engagement
The inclusion of any organization or person in this database does not constitute a representation, warranty, or endorsement with respect to the competence, suitability, or reliability of such organization or person by The Longhorn Center for Civic Engagement; nor does The Longhorn Center for Civic Engagement sponsor or endorse any third-party web site. Legal Notices


text:
|Topic Review (Newest First)
$12000 CDN is not the same as $12000 US.
Artfuldodger- What morgan do you have??
cost of Boat your dream
well how much is a dream worth, kind of hard to put a price on, well I was there back in 2005 when I bought my Morgan, and even though knew she was a project, I still waited a week to by her 10,000 less, I learned later that one should look at half the price of asking and work from there, as I've found out most boats are hard to sell, don't hold the price against the boat, she just what's a new owner to take care of her, so step back look at the adventure of repairing her, the list is not bad at all, I think your lucky that's all she needs, I spent 90,000 on my Morgan and don't regret as she is my home
|$12'000.00 is around average in BC Canada and the nav lights confuse me if they are red and green and work they are good in bc
|$12,000. for a '76 saltwater Catalina 27 is way over priced. Take a look at all the Catalina 27's on the market, especially the mid 70's, they are all averaging well under $10,000 and there are a ton of them out there. If you really like it make a low ball offer. As my car salesman uncle always told me: If you aren't embarassed by your first offer, you've left money on the table.
Buy an Alberg down in sunny California, and sail it up the coast.
Keelhaulin, thanks for that summary, I'll implement that strategy the next time I go looking.
Right now I have decided to save more cash for a more sea-worthy boat. I might end up buying a Catalina, who knows. I'm looking at the Alberg designs and I really like them, but there aint much of those in the Pacific Northwest.
I also like the Spencers, there's a beautiful 35' spencer here for sale, and some 31' Spencers.
Anyone own these before?
... if only you had the same leverage when getting married as you do when in the boat buying process
"Do you swear to serve and protect, subject to the results of a survey, a 3 month living trial and inspection of the merchandise?"
Good summary of the boat buying process Keelhaulin'.
When you are looking at a boat, it might be a good thing to talk to the other boat owners in the marina. They can often tell you what the real story behind the boat is—whether it was raced hard, sat at the dock and used for evening cocktails, etc...
Also, when you are looking at a boat, check inside the lockers, and other spaces that you don't normally look very closely at. Often, these areas can tell you whether the boat has normally been well taken care of or if the shiny, clean boat you are seeing has just been done for the sake of selling it. A shiny galley stove doesn't mean much if there's a good layer of grunge stuck under the stove. People often look and see how clean and well kept things are, and forget to look past the surface appearances.
If a lot of work has recently been done on the boat and they are selling... try to find out why the work was necessary.
When one of my crew was looking at a boat, it had had all new interior upholstery and cushions as well as some new electronics replaced about six months previous. What the owner didn't say, and talking to the other people at the marina revealed was that the boat had sunk at the dock the previous season because a through hull popped a hose. That was the primary reason for the refit. The surveyor found some interesting water lines behind some of the storage lockers. While the wiring looked fine, but I'm willing to bet that not too much further down the line it would have had some serious problems as well.
Don Casey's book Inspecting the Aging Sailboat is a bit more thorough than the brief outline he has in his repair book.
Originally Posted by Kacper
When I get more serious in the summer I will be more than ready to make some good decisions.
One thing I want to mention is that if you are looking at boats that are being sold by a broker; you should have a broker on your side as well. It costs you absolutely nothing to have a broker doing the legwork (finding suitable boats and doing contract writeups) for you because the brokers split the seller's brokerage fee.
In addition, if you are looking at a boat that is advertised for a bit higher than the average market value you should be looking for a boat that has had very recent and expensive refits done. This would be things like new electrical, new standing rigging, new sails, newer electronics, recent blister repair/barrier coat (that is documented with pictures). That should be in addition to an expected clean survey and overall acceptability of the boat.
If it is a little rough looking around the edges that is OK just be sure that it is a solid boat and has not fallen into severe disrepair. Adjust your initial offer accordingly (either well below market for a boat that has not had refit/upgrades, or closer to market if other expensive work was done recently).
You can do many of the pre-purchase survey checks yourself to weed out the ones that your broker presents to you. Take your time looking at the boat; get a copy of Don Casey's book on sailboat repair and maintenance and have a checklist of things to look at while onboard. Schedule a second and 3'rd visit with the selling broker and take your time looking in all of the compartments and check as many things as practical before making your 1'st offer. Winter is a good time to look in areas where it rains because you can check for deck leaks much easier; and it is a slow season for sales (helps your negotiating power).
Make an initial offer that is well below what your best guess of the actual value is. You need some negotiating room; and there should be no insult. It might get rejected without a counter offer but there are lots of other boats if that happens. Your broker should not pressure you to offer more; you are the person spending the bucks. If he does find another broker. If you come to an agreement (subject to survey) then proceed to survey/sea-trial but remember that you still HAVE NO OBLIGATION TO BUY. Be sure that in the contract it is worded that you have the right to withdraw your offer without penalty if FOR ANY REASON the survey (or sea-trial) is unacceptable to you; this of course includes valuation (the primary reason for the survey). There should also be a clause in the contract that allows you to re-negoitate the price following the survey should both parties agree.
Be sure you resolve any issues with the surveyor's findings or comments BEFORE you finalize the purchase. If there is anything vauge, incorrect or erroneous you should immediately contact the surveyor and work out those issues. Don't talk to the broker until you have a survey that is complete to your satisfaction. You want a survey that describes the condition of the boat accurately and is not just a laundry list of things that need fixing; otherwise you will have to get a second survey or addendum to obtain insurance. The survey should have a section that lists maintenance findings, and a section that lists "Critical Findings" - those that would be considered a liability risk to your insurance carrier. The surveyor should also include a comment that states "this boat represents a favorable liability profile (subject to repair of the items listed in the Critical Findings)." If the surveyor does not provide this sort of statement; find one who does otherwise the survey may be useless for getting insurance. Obtain more than one copy of recent surveys from your surveyor of a comporable boat and review his format and findings.
HTH; good luck with your search!
|But the broker still has to outlay time and expense to advertise and write contracts and such. A good broker should know about what a boat is going to survey out at and list it for just a little more than that. Oh well, I guess I'd never make it in sales.
Originally Posted by JouvertSpirit
Well I guess it's over. I'm surprised a brokerage would list the boat in the first place with such a delta on the value.
Of course a good, smart broker wouldn't do that, knowing that the boat is not likely to sell at all if the price is unreasonably high. But, like the used car field, you don't have to be good to be a boat broker.
|This thread has more than 10 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.
|Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On


text:
Hi all!
Just thought I'd post here quickly to introduce myself, as I've just signed-up (but have been lurking for a few weeks!). My name is Luke, and I'm from Australia. I love all things Fett, and have wanted to put together a proper costume for a long time
Looking forward to learning and few things and seeing what everyone with a similar addiction is up to!


text:
Celebrating the triumphant premiere of her new flick "Anna Karenina," Keira Knightley attended the star-studded afterparty in West Hollywood last night (November 14).
The "Pirates of the Caribbean" actress showed up at Greystone Manor Supper Club in a flirty orange dress and mingled with folks like the film's director Joe Wright.
Getting ready to show off her latest work, Keira Knightley hit the red carpet for the Los Angeles premiere of "Anna Karenina" on Wednesday evening (November 14).
The 27 year-old English beauty looked angelic in a mint green and floral embellished gown as she posed for photographers at the ArcLight Hollywood Theatre venue.
Gathering together to show off their latest film, the stars of "Anna Karenina" were on hand for the Toronto Film Festival premiere on Friday (September 7).
Looking beautiful in black, Keira Knightley stunned on The Elgin's red carpet in a floor-length lace gown while her co-star Jude Law looked dapper in a grey suit.
Supporting their latest film, Keira Knightley and Jude Law stole the spotlight at the Odeon Leicester Square for the world premiere of "Anna Karenina" on Tuesday (September 4).
Focus Features released three new character posters for the upcoming drama "Anna Karenina."
Each poster features a main characters from the flick including actors Keira Knightley, Jude Law and Aaron Tyler Johnson.
Spending some time outdoors, Keira Knightley was seen riding a bicycle around the Brooklyn set of "Can A Song Save Your Life" on Wednesday afternoon (July 25).
The 27-year-old starlet looked casual in flip flops, a button-up blouse and black capris as got into character for her role of Greta in the upcoming John Carney directed drama.
She seems to love period pieces, so it's no wonder Keira Knightley is brilliant in the new trailer for her forthcoming film "Anna Karenina."
Also starring Jude Law, the much-anticipated flick is an adaptation of Leo Tolstoy's work of the same name, and is directed by Joe Wright.


text:
|Topic Review (Newest First)
Go fast parts, If it were a GT 5spd wagon maybe but not a auto, outback model. Not to mention a forged crank runs 2000-3000 and forged pistons are 700-1200 a set.
This noise isn't only at startup Tbucket its between shifts, and at free neutral rev it rapppps ocasionally. I am familiar with the piston slap startup. Subaru USA said in its tech bulletin that it would effect engine life by less than 10% I am not the lucky type.
Hoping though a crank turn and 90 in bearings from the dealer will get me rollin again. I will post pics of the tear down. most likely.
After you have done it once, you can have the engine out of one of those in less than an hour.
Just a side note, a lot of the 98 and 99's made noise on startup. There was an issue with oil drain back if I remember correctly.
|Well if you're rebuilding your you might as well add some go fast parts as well.
The number would be great. I am not necessarily getting into subies but I like to stick to one brand for a while.
I used to do a lot of taurus's when I was in GR. MI but jap cars sell better and blown up Hondas are still way to expensive to rebuild.
I still go back and forth. I'm goign to pull the motor and tear it down tomorrow night if the crank and cylinders are in good shape I'm prbably goign to turn the crank. Let my shop hone the bores and reuse the pistons if its smoked I will buy the shortie.
BTW the shortie we got straight from subaru didnt have an oil pump or pan or windage trays etc.
It came in a little box that was easy to carry, it was about the size of a small microwave
We have a place here just a few miles up the road that has a wharehouse full of used subaru parts. Its all they do. she has probably 50 engines of various types.2.2 2.5 dohc sohc etc.
I can give you her no. if you like.
I would opt for the shortie but you do what you think is best, If you plan on getting into subarus it may be handy to have an outlet for used engines and also to have a new reman on hand of the more popular ones.
Let me throw another step into the process.
In the last 4 weeks I have done 4 sets of head gaskets on Subaru 2.5's for myself and my co worker in and out with heads is 3-4 hours. Barring we have a spare set of 2.5 heads ready to install. Otherwise the base flattening takes a couple hours depending on the machine shop.
To pull this thing out it ll take me 45-1 hour. Its a VA car No rust and its mine, so its at work on a hoist in a heated shop.
The Short Block is a genuine subaru part. It is a Crank Rods and pistons assembled no pan, gaskets, oil pump. It was purchased at a dealer then sold to a non subaru dealer and left sitting hence no warranty I was told it is clean, and its only a few months old. Problem is subaru is sellign only short block hybrids, with pan pump screen and waterpump, techs' bolt on heads and go. they've been doing this for a few yrs now, and I am worried the guy is lying to me. (dealer wholesale cost for my yr is 2325)
THe rebuild is new pistons, bearings, bore, the works.
The Short is quick and painless.
I am leaning on the rebuild side because eventually I will have another one to do and I might as well learn on my nickle instead of a customers.
Also I have owned and sold 3 subaru's in the past ten days. bought this and another one to fix. Bought one needing head gaskets and sold it to my boss for a 750 dollar profit without doing anything.
I am on the fence Ironically my wife said i should build it and that she was fine if I did it at home.
|Irelands child
|I agree with using a short block if it's a factory version. They are a PITA to work on while in the car because of the boxer design and lack of real wrench swing room, but out, no different then any other metric car. Just make sure you can get the right gaskets and timing belts before doing the project. I used Fel-Pro the last time I had one apart and was much happier then using the OEM stuff that was a LOT more expensive for less pieces.
The fgactory short is well worth the 650, if it is a factory short.
I put one in a turbo model a while back and that one was 1650 our cost (because of forged internals)
The soobies are pretty easy once you see one apart. You will like it.
They are pretty simple.
Rebuild or Short Block my subaru 2.5DOHC
I have a clean (extra Clean) 98 Subaru Legacy 120K. Used engines are 900-1300 with a 100K. Mine has a rod knock at cold start for 3-5 secs. Its not piston slap casuse it knocks at no load too (between shifts or whenever I free rev hold up and down the rev range its silent)
I can rebuild mine for 1000 (turned crank, new pistons bored block) Topline components brand guy said he sells 20-30 a yr without complaints.
Or I can buy a subaru short block (no warranty from another dealer its been on the shelf for 6-12 months) its a simple Short Block, crank rods pistons still wrapped.
with a new oil pump gaskets and getting my heads cut its 1650.
Is a factory short worth 650??? I have 4 cars so being down one doesn't hurt plus I work for a car dealer (not subaru)
These are PITA to reassemble ive seen though the guys that do em regularly say they're easy as pie once you learn the secrets.
|Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


text:
Saint Honore
Skinny Twill Jean
Out of Stock
- Our straight fit. Straight through the hip and thigh, features a low rise, and sits lower on the waist. Formerly our Noir fit.
- Skinny ankle-length leg.
- Soft goldtone rivets at points of wear. Faux front pockets; functional back pockets. Shank button and zip fly; belt loops.
- 98% Cotton, 2% Spandex. Machine wash. Imported.
- Inseams: regular 30", short 27.5", long 32".


text: I've avoided sugar for the past six years or so, so I've had to forgo a lot of tasty sweets that many people enjoy as their special treats. Ice cream sundaes are one thing that I've especially missed. I love them, but I haven't been able to have one for years.


text: all hero gm are suck they bann you as they like!!!!! because they are not professionals they are from players and they real bot still there, everywhere, u cant even lvl when u reach 70-80. because bots will ks u at all servers. i suggest u guys better play other countries server, korean server 5 times experience given than other country. china server is 100% bot free, and japan serer is bot allowed(macro mouse).


text:
Just wanted to offer up my painting services to anyone who needs some ROTJ Gauntlets and Armor painted. Since Im nearing the completion of my SE / ROTJ Fett I will have some free time. Am I a gifted painter? I dont think so but I can let you be the judge. I recently found I like to paint the armor and gauntlets so Ill stay with those. I wish to keep the price as low as possible to try to give back to the community who has been so kind to me. I will also assemble the gauntlets for you (add $10)
Prices include shipping back to you. Insurance and tracking recommended add $5. Insurance, Tracking and Overseas add $7
*Gauntlets painted $75 Painted and assembled $85
*Full Armor painted $75
*Remember ROTJ
Here are samples of my work. Thanks and PM me if interested.