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|up to 10 lbs / up to 5 kg
|8 - 18 lbs / 4 - 8 kg
|16 - 26 lbs / 7 - 12 kg
|22 - 32 lbs / 10 - 15 kg
|30 - 40 lbs / 14 - 18 kg
Jennifer Strieper
2016-01-20 10:29:10
Love these pull ons
These are one of my favorite covers. I love how soft and comfortable they are without the closures on other covers. I've never has a leak yet and they fit well over flats even with doublers added.
2015-03-19 15:42:30
NOT as good as the old style whisper pant
Just echoing some of the other disappointment in this "upgrade." I love the whisper pant, used it exclusively with my first baby 6 years ago and am reusing them now on my new baby who just turned 1. They are showing some wear and discoloring, so I ordered these new pull-on pants. They wick extremely easily at the waist and leg elastic and take a long time to dry. They are comfy and don't leave marks on my son but don't hold a candle to the old ones. PLEASE, BRING THEM BACK!! 3 out of 5 stars
2015-01-25 02:43:04
good but if xl had prints would be the best
i am special needs and i wear these for the daytime over my pampers baby dry size 6. they work well, and catch any leaks. but if the xl had prints and colours they would be beautiful. i have worn these during the daytime since the whisper pants, and i liked those too, but i wish there was more than just white ones. thanks.
Lise Bale
2014-04-22 11:07:32
Bummis Pull-On
I love these diaper covers. I used to use the Dappi vinyl covers, but they don't last as the plastic wears quickly (rips easily and the plastic gets hard and crinkly the more you wash them). I did not try the original whisper pant, but I suspect that they are similar to the vinyl ones as they are also plastic covers. I find the Pull-On breathes a bit while still being waterproof. I will continue to purchase these as although they are more expensive than the plastic covers, they last a lot longer.
2013-07-17 17:50:59
I love these.
I'm new to cloth diapering and working on a very limited budget. I ordered these for my prefolds because they were economical. Our son weighs 12 pounds and is 2 months old with chubby legs. I ordered them in medium because I can't afford two different sets. They fit around his legs perfectly and will go up to 4 hours without wicking. I haven't tried going longer without a change. They're a bit poofy but It's cute and he'll grow into them!
2013-06-20 22:49:47
miss the old ones
These pull-on pants are okay. I miss the whisper pant. The fabric around the legs and waist tend to wick if the diaper is not fully in the cover. I REALLY liked the old brand and wish you would bring it back! This will have to do because I haven't found anything I like better, but I am looking.
Rachel Brennan
2012-10-05 14:49:11
Bummis PullOn
Let me begin with the fact that I am a HUGE fan of the old style whisper pants, and when they were gone, I was sent and purchased three of these to try. After three weeks of use, i am still not in love with these like I was the whisper pant. They tend to not be as tall in the rise, therefore the top of my diapers are sticking out and I constantly have to pull the up, they do wick, since they are fabric on the outside and not nylon, so they are not a bullet proof for nights or long trips. They also do not smoosh down as much as a Bummis Whisper Pant and are not as trim. I would say they are 3 out of 5 stars where a Whisper pant would be 5 out of 5. I am not eager to purchase more, but since the whisper pant is no longer an option these will have to do, and I guess I will need to purchase some more Dappi covers when I size up.
Do you want to review this Bummis product ?


text: Charlie had a great game and came up big for us(with only 13 shots.). Rip took 20 shots, missing the majority of them but was also solid and racked up 7 assists, jonas jerebko did what he usually did. How about rodney stuckey though, 19 and 11 assists. Who says he can't run the offense at PG? I'd like to see more of this.

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It's a fact: Students who work closely with a counselor or academic advisor for educational planning are more likely to succeed in college and achieve their educational goals. That's why Schoolcraft provides a wide array of counseling and academic advising services to assist you in developing meaningful educational, career and personal plans that are compatible with your life goals.
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By Nik Brumsack
Arsène Wenger believes Arsenal's full backs are reaping the benefits of a good pre-season.
Both Kieran Gibbs and Carl Jenkinson have started the campaign in fine form, and have drawn praise for their consistent performances.
Wenger is happy with the progress of both defenders, and believes their hard work before the season started has been key.
"This year they have benefitted from the fact they had a good preparation," he said.
"Carl has as well gained one year's experience compared to last season. He came from Charlton and was straight away thrown into the Champions League. You can say that from game to game now he grows because it is linked with confidence.
"You need first to know that you belong there. Once you know that you can express yourself and then you see that in every game there is more coming out of him."
Gibbs has struggled with injuries in the past, but Wenger is hopeful that the left back's fitness problems are now behind him.
"He was out a lot but now he has found stability in his performances," Wenger said.
"Gael Clichy had the same problem. He went through a long period of injury and after that he stabilised physically. That's what Kieran is doing at the moment.
"I am very happy with his performances because he is like Carl - in every game he gets stronger."Copyright 2017 The Arsenal Football Club plc. Permission to use quotations from this article is granted subject to appropriate credit being given to www.arsenal.com as the source


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Science reporter John McGrath brings you a curated reading list in the areas of science and sustainability every week.
1. MARC accepting nominations — MARC
The Mid-America Regional Council is now accepting nominations for the 2014 Regional Leadership Award.
Since its inception in 1992, these awards have recognized certain individuals and organizations that excel in advocating, advancing and improving quality of life for the people of the region.
Nominee qualifications can be found here, and current MARC board members are not eligible. To submit a nomination, fill out the following form.
For a list of past recipients, go to the Regional Leadership Awards page.
2. Touching the Wild — PBS
Researcher Joe Hutto spent seven years of his life living among the wild mule deer. Share his journey as he experiences the lives of these elusive animals.
"Touching the Wild" premieres April 16th on PBS.
3. Contaminated Waters — PBS NewsHour
Science correspondent Miles O'Brien reports on how researchers from both the United States and Japan are testing the water that is leaking from the Fukushima power plant. With help from fishermen, these scientists are tracking ocean creatures and how they are affected.
For a related report, check out Judy Woodruff's earlier story.
4. Climate Change will help dangerous weeds — Harvest Public Media
The effect of climate change is helping a noxious weed called Dalmatian toadflax spread across the midwest and it has now made its way to our area.
For a list of dangerous weeds that affect grassland and the praire go here.
5. EarthWalk kicks off at River Market— The Hale Center for Journalism
Join Bridging the Gap for their annual fundraiser that supports the areas environmental programs, such as Keep Kansas City Beautiful. This year's EarthWalk will take place at City Market on May 3.
The event will feature electronic recycling drop off and prizes will awarded after the run.


text: Online Regulatory Briefings Online Registration See also 2009-2010 MTA Staff Development catalog. MTA provides local associations with a series of regulatory workshops at no cost. These programs may be offered district-wide, but only at the request of the local association president. All are two hours in length, which includes time for general questions and answers. The presenter will remain for an additional 30-60 minutes to answer specific questions from members of the audience. The minimum group for regulatory workshops is 20 and there is no maximum. These programs are not eligible for PDPs or PTPs. These programs are not available to non-MTA schools or districts. Educator Licensure -- 1.5-hour informational workshop This workshop explains the regulatory requirements covering licensure. It is appropriate for all educators who hold Temporary, Preliminary or Initial stage licenses or who are working under waivers. Trainers explain how a teacher moves through the stages of licensure from Preliminary to Initial to Professional. The presenter will explain how the educator documents his/her progression through each stage and the roles and responsibilities of both the educator and the district. Webinar Schedule:September 22, October 20, November 3, December 1 and 15, January 5 and 19, February 10, March 10, April 14, May 12, May 19 Professional License Renewal -- 1.5-hour informational workshop This workshop explains the regulatory requirements covering professional license renewal (formerly recertification). The trainer explains the requirements for relicensure for those who hold a Professional License. The presenter will explain how the educator documents his/her professional learning to renew all professional licenses held. Webinar Schedule:September 16, October 14, December 9, January 13, February 2, March 2, April 6, May 4 and 18 Understanding District and School Accountability -- 1.5-hour informational workshop This workshop is designed to help the whole school community -- including school council members and parents -- understand the Department of Elementary and Secondary Education's (DESE) accountability process. The presenter will explain the role of student test results in determining a school's accountability status. The most recent DESE's school accountability regulations will be explained and suggested strategies will be recommended. In addition, the importance of school improvement planning that is collaborative and ensures teacher ownership will be explained. MTA recommends that any school identified as in need of improvement or underperforming as a result of AYP should request this workshop as soon as possible. Webinar Schedule:Available to MTA local association presidents and/or their designees on October 26, November 5, 10, 19 and 24, December 7 from 3:45 to 5:15 p.m. Contact Information Please contact Beverly Eisenman at email@example.com or 1-800-392-6175 x8362 for answers to specific questions or to schedule any workshop.


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Gardeners' first and best defense against plant diseases is to create the right conditions for vigorous, healthy plants. Thus, preventing and managing plant diseases begins even before planting.
When a plant does not look "normal," or as expected, the gardener often assumes the plant is diseased and that control measures are needed. This may or may not be so. To understand plant problems and determine the best course of action, it helps to have background knowledge about the plant and the typical diseases or other problems to which it is susceptible. Such information can help avoid an inaccurate diagnosis that can lead to wasted time and expense, unnecessary use of pesticides or even damage to the plant.
This publication provides an introduction to help gardeners establish and maintain healthy plants, and it offers a systematic approach to identify and solve the problems that do occur.
A plant disease is defined as a response to environmental factors or pathogenic, disease-causing organisms that cause negative changes in the plant. A disease may affect the plant's appearance, its ability to yield or to reproduce, or all of these.
It is not always easy to determine if a disease is present. Even if a disease is confirmed, the problems it causes might only be cosmetic. Or a disease might be causing minor yield reductions that do not justify the expense and bother of control measures to eliminate it. In other situations, a disease might weaken a young plant but have little effect on older, well-established plants.
Because a disease is a response, it often provides helpful clues to the underlying problems that made the plant susceptible to the disease. These might include poor siting, water stress or improper mulching or pruning practices. In many cases, if the gardener can address the underlying cause of the plant's problems, the disease process will be thwarted, and the plant can regain its health and vigor to resist such problems in the future.
When control measures are called for, the gardener must decide which management techniques are most appropriate. Pesticides are often overused in situations where other controls could be just as effective. When pesticides are needed, the gardener should select a product designed for that specific plant and disease.
It is important to follow the recommended application methods described on a pesticide label. Repeated use of some pesticides can lead the target organisms to develop resistance, which could make future applications less effective. In some cases, pesticides can also cause environmental damage or pose a health threat to pets or humans, or negatively impact populations of nontarget organisms, including birds or beneficial insects that might help keep other plant problems in check.
Figure 1Plant disease occurrence triangle. A disease that has a biotic cause is only likely to occur when three conditions occur simultaneously.
The image of a triangle is often used to help understand the occurrence of plant diseases that have a biotic, or biological cause. A disease is only likely to occur when three conditions are met, as represented by the three corners of the triangle (Figure 1):
A disease will only develop when these conditions are present simultaneously. Of course, the pathogen that causes the disease must be present, but there is more to development of a disease. If a host plant is resistant or immune to a disease, it will probably not occur. And environmental conditions must be right. A disease that develops in cool, wet weather is not likely to occur if conditions are warm and dry. A favorable environment is one that promotes a pathogen's growth, or it could be a situation that weakens the plant, thus increasing its susceptibility — such as a sun-loving plant growing in a heavily shaded spot.
The secret is often to manage conditions that represent the corners of the plant disease triangle. Keeping these in mind helps the gardener gain insights into plant diseases and their control.
Figure 2Example of a disease cycle. Typical disease cycle of anthracnose caused by Gnomia spp.
The disease cycle is another important concept that describes the chain of events involved in disease development, and its spread and survival (Figure 2). If you can break the disease cycle, you can often manage the disease.
A typical disease cycle includes the following events:
Inoculum is any part of a pathogen that can cause infection, including fungal spores, bacterial cells, viral particles or nematodes.
Vectors are agents that carry inoculum of a disease from one host plant to another. They are typically animals such as insects, nematodes and birds. People can also act as vectors; for example, they can carry infectious inoculum on clothes, unwashed hands or dirty tools, spreading it between plants.
Depending on the disease, inoculum can be fungal spores, bacterial cells, viral particles or individual nematodes. These could be present in crop residues, in the soil, in weeds or crops, on or in seed, or in wind or water. Inoculum can also be carried on or in vectors (see box).
Pathogens in temperate climates must have a way to survive the winter when their host plants are dormant or absent. It is important to consider how these pathogens overwinter, because this can help identify what control measures will be most effective. In perennial plants, some pathogens can live through the winter in infected plant parts such as roots, bulbs, stems and bud scales. Pathogens that infect annual plants must form resistant resting structures, survive in seeds or vectors, or spread from warmer regions where the host plants grow during the winter.
Common rust of sweet corn, Puccinia sorghi, is an example of a disease spread by wind. This fungal disease does not survive long outside of living plant tissue. Because sweet corn plants do not live through cold Midwestern winters, most of the sweet corn rust inoculum (as fungal spores) blows north each season from living corn plants in the South. Thus, an understanding of how much inoculum is present in the South influences management decisions farther north.
Insects spread Stewart's bacterial wilt of sweet corn, Pantoea stewartii. This disease can survive the winter as bacterial inoculum inside flea beetles. In the spring, when overwintered flea beetles feed on sweet corn, they spread inoculum to new plants. Scientists predict how much of the disease to expect each year based on winter's severity. In mild winters, more flea beetles survive and the level of bacterial wilt will be higher at the beginning of the growing season. After such mild winters, pesticides may be used to reduce flea beetle populations, which will prevent the inoculum from reaching corn plants.
Causes of plant disorders can be characterized as either biotic, living, or abiotic, nonliving. Biotic agents are organisms such as fungi and bacteria. Abiotic agents include improper planting and injury. These two main types of causal agents usually have different symptoms and require different management approaches. However, these two types of problems are often found together because an abiotic factor frequently makes a plant more vulnerable to later attack by a living disease agent.
FungiFungi are the most common biotic cause of plant disease. Microscopic organisms that lack chlorophyll, fungi may be visible as mats of thread-like filaments or "resting structures" that include rhizomorphs and sclerotia. Many fungi reproduce by spores and produce conspicuous fruiting bodies that can aid in identification.
In the diagnostic lab, fungi are often identified by their growth patterns, spores or other structures. Because fungi are not always visible on plant surfaces, a lab can test a sample by placing the affected tissue on a petri plate that contains a nutrient medium. If fungi are present, they will grow and produce structures that are used for identification.
Fungal organisms cause various types of injury to plants. Typical fungal symptoms include seed rot, seedling blights, root and crown rots, vascular wilts, leaf spots, rusts, cankers and stem and twig blights.
Some fungi cause lesions, or dead spots, on leaves. Within the foliar lesions caused by fungi, small black dots may be visible with a hand lens. These are the fruiting bodies that produce fungal reproductive spores. Not all leaf spots require control measures. Gardeners can manage fungal leaf spots by growing resistant cultivars or by using cultural practices that limit the development of disease. If a fungicide is needed, the home gardener generally must hire an arborist or other licensed applicator to make the fungicide injections.
Other fungi cause root and lower stem rots that cause seedlings to wilt and fall over. Commonly known as damping-off, this occurs most frequently in a contaminated growing medium that is too wet. Because moisture promotes fungal growth, the more you water, the more the plants wilt. Home gardeners usually find that careful watering practices, use of sterile pots and uncontaminated, soil-less seedling mixes are the most practical and effective preventives for root and stem rots. (Do not reuse potting soil.)
Some fungi also cause cankers, which are usually visible as sunken areas or spots where the bark is rough, missing or swollen. Sometimes sap will ooze from these areas and a raised ring of callus material appears where the plant tries to protect the damaged area and limit spread of the fungus. If the canker surrounds the stem completely, the stem or branch will die above this point. Canker diseases are difficult to manage. To slow their development and spread, practice good horticultural care to reduce plant injury and stress and remove affected branches.
Some fungi cause vascular wilts. When these fungi grow inside a plant's vascular, fluid-conducting tissues, the tissues die and the leaves no longer receive moisture. Affected branches wilt and die. You can often see dark streaks in a branch under bark where fungi are active. The Dutch elm disease that has wiped out many mature elms in the Midwest over recent decades is an example of vascular wilt. Plants with severe vascular wilt infections usually cannot be saved, but gardeners can sometimes use fungicide injections to protect adjacent plants.
Blights can also be caused by fungi, leading to death of plant structures such as leaves, flowers and stems. Blight diseases often occur rapidly and can result in severe damage. One well-known historical example is late blight, a disease of tomatoes and potatoes that attacks stems and leaves, potato tubers and tomato fruits. This disease played a major role in the Irish famine that caused a wave of emigration during the 1800s. Cultural control measures, resistant varieties and fungicides are used to manage fungal blights.
Figure 3Crown gall symptoms. Crown gall is caused by Agrobacterium and related bacteria. The lumpy swellings typical of the disease are usually seen on roots or lower stems.
BacteriaBacteria are single-celled organisms that lack chlorophyll and reproduce by cell division. Bacterial cells often clump together to form colonies with unique appearances. Bacterial organisms are often classified according to metabolic types that use different food sources. In the lab, it is possible to narrow the list of bacterial agents that might be causing a problem by growing the bacteria on different kinds of media to see what the bacteria use as a food source. Because bacteria can multiply so quickly, they are often difficult to manage and can rapidly develop resistance to chemical controls.
Tumor-like growths called galls can be caused by bacteria. Crown gall is a common plant disorder that occurs when soil-borne bacteria cause lumpy swellings on roots and the lower stems of many plants. Gardeners often see crown gall of Euonymus, grape vines and fruit trees. Cultural practices such as good sanitation and avoidance of wounding can help prevent crown gall and reduce its spread.
Stomata (or stoma, when singular) are microscopic openings in the epidermis, or outer layer of plant tissues, that serve as breathing pores for gaseous exchange. Hydathodes and nectarthodes are specialized secretory structures on leaves or blossoms, through which water or nectar may be excreted.
Leaf spots are common bacterial diseases that cause mushy or water-soaked lesions; sometimes tissue falls right out of the leaf, which gives it a ragged appearance. Under a microscope, bacterial ooze from a lesion may be evident. This ooze contains millions of bacteria that can easily splash to healthy leaves in water droplets. The bacteria may enter plants through stomata and hydathodes in leaves or damaged tissues (see box).
Bacteria can be difficult to kill when protected inside the leaf. To protect healthy plants, the gardener can manipulate environmental conditions, remove infected plants and apply chemical protectants or antibiotics. Good sanitation practices are especially important to prevent problems, because a single infected seed can result in an entire tray, or even an entire greenhouse, of diseased plants.
Some bacterial diseases cause blights, such as fire blight, a common disease of apples, pears and related species in the Midwest. Typical symptoms include wilted shoot tips, where succulent new shoots droop over with a characteristic curled, shepherd's crook, or candy cane pattern, and tips turn black as they dry. Fire blight infections are typically most active in the spring when insects spread the infection as they pollinate flowers. The bacteria can enter plants through nectarthodes in blossoms (see box). Splashing rain and pruning or other wounding events can also spread the disease. Gardeners should use good cultural practices and select resistant cultivars to manage fire blight.
Bacteria also cause soft rots. These can cause rapid decline in the quality of many fruits and vegetables and damage other plants. Affected plants often have a strong odor and mushy tissues that appear melted. Avoid mechanical injury and practice strict sanitation to help reduce the incidence of soft rots.
PhytoplasmasPhytoplasmas are essentially very small, specialized bacteria that lack cell walls. They can be difficult to identify because they only survive and reproduce in living plant tissue; they cannot be isolated and cultured in a laboratory. An electron microscope is needed to detect structures of phytoplasmas in the cells of host plants. For many years, diseases caused by these organisms were thought to result from viruses, because the symptoms can appear similar.
Chlorosis is a condition in which leaves contain a reduced amount of chlorophyll, and thus, appear yellow, rather than green. This "chlorotic" condition may be caused by nutrient deficiencies, herbicide damage, genetic mutations or biotic diseases.
Aster yellows is a phytoplasma-caused disease that affects many landscape and garden plants. Affected plants often develop stunted, malformed plant structures and appear chlorotic, or yellowish (see box). Control measures include removal of the infected plants and nearby weedy hosts, and control of leaf hoppers and other insects that act as vectors for the disease.
VirusesVirus particles consist of a small amount of genetic material within a protective protein coat called a capsid. Viruses are so small that individual particles cannot be observed with a common light microscope. When a plant cell becomes infected with a virus, that cell replicates new viral particles that prevent normal plant cell function.
Diagnosis of viral diseases can be challenging. Visual identification is difficult and advanced identification techniques are expensive. Typical viral symptoms include stunting and chlorosis, as well as mottling, puckering, ring spotting and mosaic patterns in leaves. In the lab, virus species can sometimes be identified by their physical characteristics when viewed at high magnification with an electron microscope. In other cases, "serological" testing of plant sap or more advanced genetic testing techniques can help confirm a diagnosis.
Viruses are spread by insects and nematodes, using infected seed, handling plants or spreading contaminated sap during pruning or propagation, or sometimes by pollinating with infected pollen. The mode of transmission depends on the type of virus. Unfortunately, once a plant has a viral disease, there is no cure. If the virus causes severe symptoms and has potential to spread to nearby plants of the same species, the infected plants should be destroyed. Other control measures include destroying nearby weedy hosts, practicing good sanitation techniques during pruning and propagation, and managing insect vectors.
NematodesNematodes are unsegmented, microscopic roundworms that generally have a thread-like form. Not all nematodes harm plants. Some are beneficial and kill plant pests. Others are associated with decaying matter. A parasitic nematode has a needle-like stylet, a tube-like structure that can pierce plant cells to withdraw nutrients.
Some nematodes live inside plants. This is true of the pine wilt nematode that is responsible for the death of many Scots pines across the Midwest. Trees become infected when a beetle that feeds on the tree also brings the nematode. Affected trees quickly turn brown and should be destroyed to prevent infection of healthy trees. To confirm the presence of pine wilt nematodes, a plant diagnostic clinic can test a portion of a large branch or tree trunk.
Nematodes that live in the soil sometimes cause severe plant damage in the South. In Missouri, the root-knot nematode is prevalent in the southeast area of the state. In recent years, this nematode has been found farther north into central Missouri, perhaps because winters have been mild by historical standards. This nematode causes swollen knots at infected sites on the roots of a range of plants, including certain fruits, vegetables and ornamentals.
Commercial growers can use soil fumigants to manage nematodes in the soil, but homeowners have few management options. Sanitation is important because nematodes are easily spread with infested soil or plant material. Dirty gardening tools, such as shovels or tillers with soil on them, can spread nematodes to new areas.
Figure 4Symptoms of abiotic plant injury. Injury from nonliving, environmental factors typically occurs on one side or area of a plant or group of plants.
Abiotic plant problems are not associated with a living organism. An abiotic problem may be physical, environmental or chemical. Many samples of plant disorders received by plant diagnostic centers have problems that are primarily due to abiotic factors. Many others have disease and insect problems that developed due to underlying abiotic issues. For example, many plants have distinct habitat preferences and will easily develop problems if grown in an unsuitable location. In such circumstances, abiotic factors can make a plant more susceptible to the biotic disease organisms discussed in the previous section.
PhysicalPeople, rather than insects or diseases, are often responsible for a plant's problems. Problems caused by people can be categorized as physical or mechanical and include poor planting methods that allow limited area for root growth, improper mulching, construction-related injury or soil compaction, girdling of stems or trunks, or pruning too much or at the wrong time of year. For example, plants should be pruned during dormancy, not during the growing season.
In some cases, physical problems can be alleviated. However, such problems often indicate that the plant was given a bad start. By the time symptoms appear, the gardener may not be able to address the problem's real cause and restore the plant to vigor.
EnvironmentalEnvironmental factors are common sources of a plant disorder. Extremes in temperature and moisture are the most common culprits. Drought stress can cause leaf scorch, leaf drop or even branch dieback. Freezing injury in winter can cause leaf burn and dieback of evergreens. When wet conditions saturate the soil for many days during the growing season, plants may develop yellowed foliage due to poor uptake of minerals from the soil by nonfunctional roots.
If decline of whole sections of a plant or a group of plants occurs suddenly, especially if the affected sections are concentrated on one side of the plant or a group of plants, suspect an abiotic, nonliving, factor, such as chemical drift, animal damage or weather.
Too much or too little shade is a typical problem. For example, hydrangeas commonly wilt and scorch when they are not mulched and watered carefully to keep the soil moist during dry conditions. They do best in a location with afternoon shade that alleviates the impact of high summer temperatures. In contrast, lilacs or junipers will be stunted if planted in too much shade.
Certain plants have a fairly specific range of soil conditions in which they will thrive. These plants will have problems if grown in soil that has a nutrient imbalance or an improper pH. For this reason, a soil test can often signal a probable cause for a plant disorder. Pin oak and blueberries, for example, like acidic soils and commonly develop leaf chlorosis when the soil pH is neutral or alkaline. Also, if the gardener fertilizes every year with a complete fertilizer that contains nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K), the P or K may eventually build up in the soil and interfere with uptake of other minerals such as magnesium, manganese and iron.
Generally, plants have a limited geographic range where they will grow and do well. Many plants are simply poor choices for temperate Midwestern growing conditions or for the specific site where they are planted. In such cases, manipulating environmental conditions, applying pesticides or attempting other control measures may not result in good plant health. Selecting plants well suited to the local environment gives them the best chance to thrive and resist disease. Gardeners should be familiar with the plant zone where they are located. See the U.S. Department of Agriculture's Plant Hardiness Zone Map, online at http://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov or an updated version from the National Arbor Day Foundation, online at http://arborday.org/media/zones.cfm.
ChemicalChemicals are also abiotic causes of plant disorders. Symptoms of herbicide injury vary with the product used and tend to cause sudden decline.
The most common symptoms are leaf cupping and distortion caused by drift from pesticide spray or root uptake by ornamentals and vegetables where broadleaf weed killers have been applied to nearby lawns or crop fields. Ice-melting salts that wash into the root zones of trees and shrubs can cause wilting or browning of leaf margins.
Air pollutants that damage plants include sulfur dioxide and hydrogen fluoride from industrial sources. Incompletely burned hydrocarbons released from automobiles in heavily populated areas can result in production of both ozone and peroxyacetyl nitrate, known as PAN. These harmful gases enter plants through the stomata and cause symptoms that include a characteristic bronzing of leaves.
To accurately diagnose a plant disorder and find its remedy can seem like a daunting task, given the hundreds of plants grown in gardens, landscapes and commercial horticultural operations, and the array of problems that affect them. In some cases, identification may require assistance from a professional plant pathologist, a diagnostician of plant disorders. Before turning to the experts, however, a gardener should attempt to make a diagnosis. Even if the result is not definite, the process is a learning experience that will provide useful information.
When diagnosing plant problems, a gardener should pay close attention to detail when collecting information. Items that can be helpful include a hand lens, trowel, pruning shears, pocketknife, flashlight, digital camera and a notebook and pencil. Establish a location to keep records and reference materials.
It is often possible to rule out many causes of a plant's problems and to determine the most likely cause by following these five steps:
First, know the plant. Every species, variety or cultivar has a unique set of characteristics that often provide important clues to identify the source of a problem. Consider the plant's preferences for soil and climatic factors of pH, nutrient levels, soil type, moisture level, light intensity and temperature.
If a plant's identity is uncertain, gardeners can consult references such as those suggested at the back of this guide, or any available gardening or landscape records. Garden stores can usually help identify a plant if they have a stem with several leaves. Local extension offices or the MU Plant Diagnostic Clinic, online at http://plantclinic.missouri.edu, can also help. Most other states provide similar services.
References can help determine whether a plant is located on a site that matches its requirements. For example, a flowering dogwood tree is adapted to a woodland understory environment with excellent drainage. It is unlikely to thrive if planted in a poorly drained soil or on a south-facing slope in full sun. If the tree survives, it is likely to develop leaf scorch and damage from dogwood borers attracted to the stressed tree. Such symptoms often result from an unsuitable planting site. When this happens, the gardener can only expect limited results from pesticides or other treatments.
Read plant descriptions and observe other plants of the species, variety or cultivar to learn what is normal for the plant in question. Sometimes a symptom is just a natural feature. For example, someone unfamiliar with 'Golden Vicary' privet might mistake this cultivar's yellow leaf color for a sign of nitrogen deficiency. Similarly, a plant with a splotchy pattern on a leaf may be a variegated cultivar. If unfamiliar with paperbark maple, the gardener might be alarmed to see sheets of bark peeling from the trunk of a specimen, though it is a normal process for this plant. However, bark peeling from the lower trunk of a red maple would be a legitimate cause for concern.
It can also help to observe other plants of the same species at roughly the same age and at the same time of year as the sample being evaluated. For example, during hot, dry weather, mature river birch trees often drop a significant portion of their leaves as a drought-survival mechanism. For pines, yellowing of the interior needles in the fall is likely to be part of the normal process of shedding two- or three-year-old leaves.
Some plants have longer life spans than others. A bur oak may live 300 years, but it is relatively rare to find a redbud older than 30. Trees late in their expected life spans often succumb to trunk decay, root rots, stem-boring insects or other pests that normally do not attack young, vigorously growing plants. If a plant has reached its normal life expectancy, the gardener can only do so much to restore it to a flourishing condition.
Figure 5Symptoms and signs of Diplodia (or Sphaeropsis) tip blight on needles at end of twig, left, and on pine cone, right. Symptoms of this disease include browning and stunting of new needles at branch tips. A close look will also show fungal signs — small black bumps that are the reproductive fruiting bodies — on dead needles, twigs and cones.
Learn the common problems that affect the plant in question. Good reference materials can help as you match your observations with descriptions or photographs of typical plant disorders, and their related symptoms and signs
A diagnostician learns to look for indications of disorders that commonly affect certain species. Austrian pine trees are often affected by Diplodia pinea (also known as Sphaeropsis), a fungal tip blight that kills needles near the tips of lower branches. Leaves of hawthorn trees are often attacked by a rust disease and an insect called lacebug. Zinnias, lilacs and garden phlox are all commonly afflicted by powdery mildew. Red maple trees often display a leaf distortion caused by leaf hoppers. They also frequently suffer from chlorosis, indicated by yellow leaves with green veins, a condition that is frequently due to high-pH soil with little available manganese and iron.
Observe carefully to determine whether a plant problem has been caused by a living, biotic organism or by some type of nonliving, abiotic factor. By studying the cultural preferences of plants and looking for patterns in the landscape, the gardener may be able to determine the cause of a disorder.
Clues to biotic factorsMany types of living organisms can cause plant disorders, including fungi, bacteria, viruses, nematodes, phytoplasmas, insects, mites and parasitic plants and animals. These diseases and insects tend to show up somewhat randomly in the landscape, but they are usually host specific. They often start in one location on a particular plant species and then spread gradually to the entire plant and possibly to nearby plants of the same type.
Clues to abiotic factorsIf patterns of damage on the individual plant, or throughout a planting, are uniform and repeated, especially if they are concentrated on one side of a plant or an area, a nonliving factor is the probable cause (see Figure 4 on page 8). Abiotic factors commonly affect multiple species in the landscape or garden over a defined area. Additional clues can often help determine whether the nonliving damage is due to mechanical, physical or chemical sources.
Close visual examination can show if the damage pattern coincides with a cultural practice, such as pruning, mulching or watering. Are stems or trunks broken or girdled, or roots exposed and damaged? Weather records and patterns provide information to help identify other possible physical or environmental factors. For example, heat damage is most likely to show up on the southwest side of a plant canopy because the highest leaf temperatures of the day occur during early to midafternoon when the sun is in the southwest quadrant of the sky. Cold damage occurs on less hardy plants and will be most severe on the least hardy tissues of those specific plants.
Contact chemicals can cause symptoms that occur over the general plant canopy. If a toxic chemical is applied directly to the above-ground parts of a plant, the pattern of application may be detected, such as the extent and size of spray droplets or more severe damage on the portion of the plant exposed to the greatest amount of the chemical. If an aerial pollutant is involved, areas between the leaf veins and along the leaf margin will be the first to show damage. Toxic contact chemicals in the root zone, including excess fertilizer, result in poor root development. These symptoms tend to be localized where the chemical contacts the root, but produce general symptoms in the plant. Roots are injured and root tips may die, which will result in the plant being stunted. Shoots may show water and nutrient stress symptoms, because the roots will not take up water properly. Wilting can occur even though the soil is wet.
Understand symptoms and signs, and the differences between them, to help diagnose a plant's problem or to discuss a sample with others. Symptoms are the plant's response to infection. They are what you see that signals the plant is not functioning normally. Typical symptoms include brown spots on leaves, yellowing or crinkling of leaves, discoloration or mushy plant tissues. Signs are visible structures made by the pathogen or the disease agent (or insect) that caused the symptoms. Signs include mold on the plant surface, mushrooms, droplets of bacterial ooze or dark-colored bumps on a leaf.
Consider a typical Austrian pine in Missouri. A common disease of this species is called Diplodia tip blight. To confirm the disease, you would first look for symptoms. Specifically, you would see the dead needles at the tips of the branches. At this point, if you use a hand lens to further examine the brown branch tips, you could see signs of the fungus causing the disease: small black bumps or specks that are the fruiting bodies. Symptoms of Diplodia tip blight are similar to pine tip moth damage, but the signs are different. In the case of the moth damage, the fungal fruiting bodies are not present, and moth larvae and tunneling in the shoots will be evident.
Figure 6Plant disease puzzle. Diagnosing a plant disease accurately requires the gardener to consider many different factors that might be causing the disorder.
Using the five steps described above to diagnose plant problems is like putting together a puzzle. If you can find enough pieces and fit them together, you will often see a logical picture emerge. Sometimes this process is called the "guess and confirm" method. With practice and experience, diagnosis becomes progressively easier.Take a lesson from professional plant diagnosticians: Good reference materials can be a great help in the process. Sources of information and pictures include websites, textbooks, extension publications and professional and trade journals. Related MU Extension publications are listed at the left of this publication.
If a plant disease problem still has you stumped after following the steps to diagnosis, you might decide to call on the experts. You could take a sample to a local garden store or to your county extension office where a quick consultation might answer your questions. You could also send a sample to a higher authority — a plant diagnostic laboratory.
To identify plant disorders, diagnostic labs use a variety of techniques, the choice of which depends on the sample. In many cases, diagnosis will be relatively simple because the lab is familiar with the problem, having previously seen many plants with the same disease.
Taxonomy is the science of classification of plants and animals according to relationships based on morphology, or forms, and to the principles of such classification.
With a more challenging sample, or when identifying an unfamiliar disease, a diagnostician may use a taxonomic approach that includes the main steps of isolating the suspect pathogen, identifying it and then confirming it (see box). Using this approach can be time-consuming and expensive. For example, to confirm a potential diagnosis, a technician might inoculate a healthy plant with a pathogen from the sample to see if the healthy plant develops the same symptoms. Sometimes a lab uses other advanced testing methods or sends a sample for retesting at another plant clinic that specializes in certain techniques or specific pathogens.
Most states have a university or state plant diagnostic lab. At the University of Missouri, information about the Plant Diagnostic Clinic, how to submit samples, associated fees and other information can be found online at http://plantclinic.missouri.edu. You can download forms to submit with a sample or obtain them at an extension office. The form asks for detailed information that is important to fill out as completely as possible to aid in a quick and accurate diagnosis.
The quality of the sample is critical. When submitting small plants, it helps to include several samples that show a range of symptoms from the healthy to the severely damaged. When possible, submit an entire plant. If that is not practical, examine the different parts of the plant for all possible symptoms and signs, and submit portions that represent the observed problems. Sometimes, the problem is different or more extensive than it might first appear. For example, an accurate diagnosis of a problem first observed as foliar damage on leaves could result from an impairment of other parts of the plant such as the trunk or roots.
To assist in accurate diagnosis, keep the plant material as fresh as possible during shipping. To prevent decay of the sample in the mail over a weekend, you should wait to collect the sample or store it in a cooler over the weekend to ship early the next week. Fresh samples sent through the mail generally arrive in good condition when they are wrapped in dry paper towels or newspaper and enclosed in a padded envelope or plastic bag and then boxed. Do not wrap samples in damp packaging material. This frequently results in a moldy mess by the time the sample reaches the clinic, which wastes time and money for the sender and the recipient alike.
The National Plant Diagnostic Network was created to address concerns about bioterrorism after the events of Sept. 11, 2001. The goal is to establish a functional national network of existing diagnostic laboratories to rapidly and accurately detect and report pathogens, pests and weeds of national interest. More information about the network is online at http://www.npdn.org.
The plant diagnostic clinic at MU is part of this network, and through it, receives funding and training opportunities to improve detection and identification of new pests and pathogens. Every diagnosis of a plant sample made by the clinic is collected in a national database. This allows scientists to quickly determine where a specific pest or pathogen is being diagnosed and how widespread that organism has become.
So far, the network has probably been most useful to facilitate quick identification of accidental introduction of new pests and pathogens brought into the United States as a result of the global economy. For example, a bacterial wilt disease accidentally introduced on geranium cuttings from tropical areas was quickly identified and eradicated before it could become established.
Integrated pest management, known as IPM, is considered the best approach to maximize the success of management techniques and to minimize costs — including economic, environmental and potentially even health costs. Methods to manage plant disease primarily depend on the biology of the specific pathogen and the host plants.
The gardener who inspects plants frequently and identifies problems when they first begin to develop will often have a wider selection of effective management options. Keep in mind that more than one method may be needed to effectively manage a specific problem.
Common approaches to manage plant diseases include five main types of controls.
Integrated pest management, often referred to as IPM, involves the selection, integration and use of pest-management techniques based on predicted economic, aesthetic, sociological and ecological consequences. IPM seeks to maximize the use of biological and naturally occurring pest management tools.
The IPM concept does not prohibit use of chemical-based pesticides. Rather, it considers their use as one of many components of a comprehensive pest management program.
A regulatory approach is often a quarantine to prevent the spread of a disease into new areas. For example, if you have ever flown to a location such as California or Hawaii, you may have noticed measures taken at airports to prohibit transport of fruit and other agricultural or horticultural products that could harbor pests and diseases. So far, successful quarantine efforts have kept an aggressive strain of the bacterial wilt pathogen Ralstonia solanacearum from entering the United States. This disease could severely impact the country's production of solanaceous crops, including tomatoes and potatoes. Bacterial wilt inoculum accidentally came into the country on flower cuttings shipped from Kenya and Guatemala, but the disease was quickly detected and eradicated before it could begin to become established here.
Another quarantine aims to check the spread of sudden oak death, a new disease on the West Coast that has been damaging forests in California. In addition to killing oaks, it also causes a blight of many other trees and shrubs, and it has infected nursery stock. Whenever infected stock is found, the plants must be destroyed and nearby plants must be isolated and watched for symptoms. If the disease should arrive in the Midwest, it could severely damage our landscapes.
Breeding for disease resistance uses genetics to prevent disease. Resistance refers to an ability to exclude or overcome infection by a particular disease-causing organism. Many crops and ornamental plants are bred to be disease resistant. Gardeners frequently use this method when they select varieties and cultivars that can resist common diseases, such as roses with black spot resistance or crab apples with resistance to apple scab.
A plant considered disease resistant is able to resist a specific disease, but it can still be highly susceptible to other diseases. For example, certain roses that are highly resistant to the common fungal leaf disease black spot are often susceptible to other leaf spotting diseases, viruses and other problems.
Also, a plant that is resistant to a specific disease could still develop the infection, especially if a different genetic variant of the pathogen is present. For example, tomato varieties resistant to Fusarium wilt can develop the disease under highly favorable environmental conditions or when another race of the fungus is present in the soil.
Cultural disease management strategies are long-practiced methods that prevent the conditions for diseases and other pests to become established. These practices, based on good sanitation and husbandry, often rely on a general knowledge of plants and their associated disorders. Combining a variety of cultural control techniques often works better than using a single method.
In the garden, rotating tomatoes to a different spot each year is a popular cultural control used to disrupt year-to-year pest cycles, as is removing and destroying old plants at the end of the growing season. Waiting to plant warm-season crops such as green beans until the soil has warmed can avoid seed rots. Planting a mix of different plant species also may reduce or slow the spread of disease if resistant plants are planted among more susceptible plants. Watering early in the morning so the plants can dry quickly and remain dry through the night is another effective cultural practice for some fungal or bacterial diseases. Pruning and training plants in ways that promote air circulation around leaves and that allow more light penetration creates a healthy environment that discourages infection.
Planting a tree or shrub correctly and in the right type of location gives the plant a better chance of resisting diseases and other problems. Diagnostic clinics often see plants that died simply as a result of improper planting. In general, gardeners should strive to plant healthy, disease-free plants and maintain them in a vigorous condition.
Biological control agents are known as a way to manage harmful insect populations by the use of beneficial organisms such as lady beetles. There are also biological controls for some plant diseases. For example, formulations of beneficial fungi or bacteria are widely used as a spray or dust to coat plant surfaces and help prevent attack by more harmful disease-causing organisms.
Finally, chemicals such as fungicides, bactericides or nematicides are used to control plant diseases. Chemical controls can be effective, but it is important to properly identify the problem and determine that the method is suited to the situation. For example, a fungicide will not cure a problem caused by insect damage, poor drainage or bacterial disease.
Samples are often submitted to the diagnostic clinic after chemical control has failed. In some cases, plant damage is the result of a burn from chemicals applied to treat a different plant problem. Effective, proper use of chemical controls can save the gardener money and can also prevent application of chemicals that could harm the environment or potentially even compound pest problems.
Always read chemical labels carefully. Apply compounds properly and respect environmental health and safety information indicated on labels. This information can include special directions for mixing and application, limits to application on windy days or before predicted rain events, or buffer areas needed between application areas and wells or watercourses.
Although older diagnostic references can be valuable resources, they might recommend chemical control measures that are outdated or no longer legal. The National Pesticide Information Center, online at http://npic.orst.edu, and cosponsored by Oregon State University and the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, is an up-to-date source of information on a range of technical, regulatory and pest control topics. A good reference for information on pesticides currently labeled for use in Missouri is the Pesticide Registration Database, which is available from the Missouri Department of Agriculture Pesticide Control webpage, http://agriculture.mo.gov/plants/pesticides.
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Seriously Packard?
Guns are NOT for scaring people, they are the end to a string of problems. Aside from the situation changing, they shouldn't be "presented" as a deterrent. Coming from someone (me) who's had to draw, was about to fire, but didn't have to... this should be a telling statement. I didn't present my gun to deter the bad guy, I pulled it to shoot the Mother F@#$er, but he stopped doing stupid stuff so he didn't win a stupid prize.


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what kind of bottle are you using -you know of course if those are liquid measurements for the bottle your honey weight will not be the same- honey weight is more than volume-I also find i cant get three pounds in a quart -but 4 quarts make a gallon so the tell me ;) and a gallon of honey weighs 12-pounds go figure (i guess the quart would be a liquid or volume measurement makes a difference) still tastes just as good though RDY-B
OK Im gonna drive yall crazy with questions. I want to ask and learn as much about beekeeping as I can before I dive in and begin beekeeping.I am not expecting to make it rich selling honey, that is not my main intention for wanting to beekeep. But I was thinking that if my hives ( which I dont have yet) were to make an extra amount of honey that perhaps selling some would bring in some extra spending money for my family. So here are my questions:-in order to sell honey to others and at farmers markets and places like garage sales do I need to be liciensed and or do I have to do anything to the honey to make it legal to sell?
- do you sell the honey freshly poured from the hive just like that?
-Is there a large desire out there in people to have fresh honey?
-About how long will honey last when stored? And where/how is the best places to store excess honey to sell/use later one?
Ty for answering my questions. :)
-About how long will honey last when stored?
Quote from: BJ_BOBBI_JO on February 05, 2008, 11:22:28 PM-About how long will honey last when stored? They have found good honey in ancient tombs. It last awhile.
W/no prev. exper. w/bees-honey etc. was AMAZED at the popularity as well as all the homeopathic sort that rave it.cheers
One of the many benefits of living off the well beaten track, sell off the highway, farmers market, newspaper anywhere you can pretty well think of w/no licenses no fuss. This year which was my first I asked/got $5 for a pint (500ml) jar that weighs m.o.l. 650 grams or (calculator please) 1.444 lbs. This season will sell for $6 pint (500 ml) or $4.15/lb. what w/price of fuel etc. climbing almost hourly.peter


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I just got a Mk3 vr a couple months ago. I also have a 2.0 jetta so this will make this my second jetta. I am the second owner of it and the previous owner kept it in great condition. I even have the purchase original documents from 97'. It has common wear and tear but its not bad. Im happy i don't have to worry about the paint, well for now at least. Sorry for some of the crappy pics
--Some of the pics before i bought it--
--More Recent Ones--
--Today i test fitted some stock 17" bbs i got at Show n' Go so here is a pic ill throw in--


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|Topic Review (Newest First)
|Alex W
Re: First Sailboat - the search
It's great that condition is a primary driver for you. A lot of first time buyers (including myself when I bought my first boat) focus a bit too much on price and don't give enough consideration to condition. Catching a boat up on 5 or 10 years of deferred maintenance isn't cheap, even in this smaller size range.
Originally Posted by Sheppyb View Post
We will see where things go over the next few months. With regards to the specific comments on the Westerly, I do appreciate being candid. Now all I have to do is to try to sort out those statements with others of equal experience that say things contrary.
25-29' is a big size range, especially if you plan on doing any cruising. I started with a Catalina 25 and found it a little tight for two for cruising longer than a weekend or two. I moved up to a Pearson 28 which is at the upper end of your scale and it is a lot more comfortable. On the other hand the Catalina was a lot cheaper to maintain and had many fewer systems, which made it a great first boat.
Re: First Sailboat - the search
Originally Posted by jimgo View Post
One of the biggest reasons I suggest a Catalina is that, in the used market, they tend to hold their value. That is, if you pay $10,000 for a Catalina 27, you'll likely be able to sell it in 2-3 years for about the same amount. Now, you may put $3-4,000 into the boat (adding roller furling, getting new sails, etc.), but at least you can kind of predict what she'll sell for and you can make intelligent decisions as to whether any particular upgrade is cost effective based on your plans for the boat.
We now have a C-34.
Re: First Sailboat - the search
Good advice.
I already have several daily queries headed to my inbox for anything new that pops up in the size, price range I am looking at. Occasionally I just walk the marinas and yards and ask if anything new has come in. I am also checking the local papers.
Initially the farthest I was looking was in Miami/Ft Lauderdale area. The only reason I was asking for additional info on the Westerly was due to its maintenance history and single family ownership over the last 35+ years.
Re: First Sailboat - the search
I know you're already looking for the Westerlies outside of your local area, but don't forget to look for other boats that way, too. I'd be tempted to monitor the Miami/Ft. Lauderdale, Naples/Marco, and Key West listings (Yachtworld, Craigslist, Sailboat Listings, Sailing Texas, Boats.com, iBoats, etc.).
Re: First Sailboat - the search
Also, budget. I would like to keep the purchase under $15k.
Re: First Sailboat - the search
With regards to the Westerly ... several weeks ago I saw one on the web for sale. I didn't know anything about them, so I started researching. I read folks thoughts or magazine reviews on them here, boatus, ybw and also at owner association sites. The opinions and reviews were generally positive because of the build quality for a production boat (over 2400 made), ability to take weather, stability, ample cabin size, etc but also acknowledged the boats shortcomings in speed and pointing due to the twin bilge keels and smaller sail area when compared to other boats with similar LWL and displacement.
Specifically with the Westerly boat for sale, it has been completely overhauled over the last 2 years and has been family owned since production in 1976, price is right too. Pretty rare.
The last boat we looked at was a Catalina 27. I really like the design. The boat in question is dry-docked on stands and recently had the keel-to-hull joint repaired so there was no 'Catalina Smile.' Ample cockpit, large cabin for this LOA and huge companionway. New bottom paint and hull paint. Most everything else was in disrepair. No deck fittings or other standing rigging, some running rigging, and the cabin was being completely stripped with everything dumped inside. The list went on. It was someone's project boat and they wanted to get rid of the project. If a Catalina 27, in what I would consider near turn-key condition, comes on the market, it would be an easy sell.
Some of the live-aboarders I think would have a different definition of what they consider turn-key based on what is currently for sale in or around the Middle Keys.
EDIT: I'll take a look at the Islander 28s if any are in the area. Also, just the 2 of us at the moment. Potential for another couple for some of the longer coastal sailing.
Thanks again for the input,
Re: First Sailboat - the search
Have you seen the Islander 28's? Just another one to throw into the mix. I like the S2's, too.
Patience is a good thing. I've heard stories from my parents (Naples-area) of folks buying boats up north and moving the down to FL, then realizing that their dream of sailing to the islands, or to South America, just wasn't for them for whatever reason, and abandoning boats different places. Or, in other cases, finishing the trip then deciding that it wasn't worth the trouble to find a buyer, etc., so they just abandon them. I'm not sure how true this is, or how frequently it happens, but it might be worth looking into.
Re: First Sailboat - the search
Roger that deltaten.
At this time, we have 30' on our canal dock. Because of this, I would probably not look at anything longer than 29' LOA to give us a little wiggle room.
Our initial certification came on a 34' Irwin. The Irwin was a nice boat to sail. Initially, we were intimidated by the size but that quickly became an afterthought. Much of the sailing was bayside in the Keys, and in 7-8 feet of water. One day the wind was 20+ knots so we reefed the main and went oceanside to the reef.
25'-29' LOA, prefer a diesel inboard, well maintained, non-project boat, decent cabin space with a port-a-potty. We have looked at several Cals, Catalinas, Hunters. Have not had a chance to inspect an O'Day, Morgans, or S2 in this area for sale though know folks that currently own O'Days and S2s. Many (maybe most) of the local sailboats for sale have been used exclusively as live-aboards and probably haven't left their marina in years. People just living cheaply. Not something I would ever consider buying.
I'll be patient.
Re: First Sailboat - the search
Welcome! What is it that made the Westerly attractive to you? What's your budget? How do you plan on using the boat? Is there more to your family than just your wife and you? With how many people will you be sailing regularly?
You mention 25-30's. You'll find here that, for a first boat, many encourage you to look at Catalinas. They are good starter boats for a variety of reasons, including that the company is still in business, they sold a TON of boats so there is a real aftermarket that manufactures all sorts of parts (replacement and upgrade) for the boats, and they can be found for reasonable prices. They also made them in a variety of configurations, including keel types, so you'll likely find one that meets your needs.
One of the biggest reasons I suggest a Catalina is that, in the used market, they tend to hold their value. That is, if you pay $10,000 for a Catalina 27, you'll likely be able to sell it in 2-3 years for about the same amount. Now, you may put $3-4,000 into the boat (adding roller furling, getting new sails, etc.), but at least you can kind of predict what she'll sell for and you can make intelligent decisions as to whether any particular upgrade is cost effective based on your plans for the boat.
In my very limited experience, I think you should expect your first boat to only be "yours" for a year or two. You're new, and (with al due respect) you likely have no real clue how you'll actually use the boat. After a year or two of use, you'll start to realize what the boat's shortcomings are, what you'd like to change, what you can live with, etc., and if you really love sailing and owning a boat, you'll probably be ready to switch to something else. This goes beyond just the "2-foot-itis" that we all deal with, it's a matter of finding a boat that actually meets your needs/wants. Thus, I would suggest finding a commodity boat and sailing the heck out of it for a year or two, then flipping it and finding something that might be your longer-term boat.
Of course, you may stumble across a 1990's-era, 32' Hinckley that's in beautiful condition and the owner "just wants to get rid of it" and will sell it to you for $5,000, in which case you should absolutely ignore my advice, assuming the boat meets most of your basic requirements!
Re: First Sailboat - the search
Figger out what ya want
Find a boat that fits 80%+ of yer needs
then get the NEXT bigger/est boat ya can find/afford IOW.... get the one you truly believe that you can live with for the rest of yer life. Big enuff ta cruise comfortably but small enuff to fit most slips and handle solo.
Tough choices, huh?
just my $.02 YMMV
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text: Too true dba. But then, Antoine Walker, Gary Payton, Alonzo Mourning and Jason Williams were all considered cancerous to their team at one time or another. Jalen so badly wants to play and win. Besides, we could use another guy with some "dog" in him. But I'm seriously feeling this is another Joe Dumars tease, ala Latrell Sprewell.


text: Since I am always looking forward to the next season, the one thing on my mind is which sub top-24 skaters from Nationals should/could end up at Skate America. Here is my analysis- feel free to add your own! Men- Alexander Johnson has to be the clear choice for a spot. His free skate was fantastic, and he put out a great free last year, too. I imagine the top 6 (Aaron, Miner, Abbott, Farris, Rippon, Dornbush) will all end the year at or close to top-24 status so they shouldn't need help getting GP spots. Unfortunately for Alex, there is always the Weir and Lysacek factor to consider, because sometimes, they actually show up. Still, I will hold out hope... Pairs- My big hope is for the wonderful new team of Kayne/O'Shea. I was also super impressed by Leng/Leduc and Baga/Toth. The way things worked this past season with all the injuries and splits, I think Davis/Ladwig, Denney/Frazier, and Donlan/Speroff will be ok to get a spot or two even if they're outside of the top 24. I have hope for Zhang/Bartholomay to score well at 4CC also. Of course, Rockne and whichever new partner could factor in also if they are ready by summer/fall comps. I think Calalang/Sidhu, Simpson/Blackmer, and Pfund/Reiss all age out of juniors too, but at the moment I am significantly less impressed with all of them than our lower ranked senior pairs, and just think they need more time to bake or whatever. But the former two have another shot at a higher SB at Junior Worlds, so good luck to them! Ladies- a lot will depend on Junior Worlds. I really want to see all 3 of Hicks, Siraj, and Cesario make the leap up to senior GP, and if any fail to achieve top-24 scores, then they will have to hope for SA. I also imagine Alissa Czisny will get a SA spot if she wants one. And we can never forget Rachael Flatt... The others- Wagner, Gold, Gao, Nagasu, Zawadzki, should all be fine with their ISU PB's. I am sure whatever happens, there will be a ton of hang-wringing and endless discussion... Dance- I guess whichever of the Cannuscio teams, Olson/Hubbell, or Aronow/Brubaker look best at Lake Placid, and Aldridge/Eaton and K/G-S are also in the 20-30 range and could need a spot.


text:
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text:
|Topic Review (Newest First)
Originally Posted by doggiedad View Post
Peanut butter dog treat
> 1 large banana.
> 1 egg
> 1/3 cup peanut butter (no salt, no sugar).
> 1 tbsp honey.
> 1 cup rice flour.
> 1/2 cup ground flax seed.
> bake 300 degrees.
> 2 cups cooked ground chicken (fish, turkey, lamb,
goat, pork, beef).
> 2 cups brown rice.
> 1/2 cup dried cranberries.
> 1 cup cooked mashed sweet potato
or yams.
> 2 tbsp honey.
> 1 tsp rosemary.
> 1/4 tsp garlic powder or granulated garlic).
> 1 tsp ground cinnamon.
> combine all.
> bake at 375 degrees.
Is that 2 cups of cooked or raw brown rice in the second recipe? How long do you cook each recipe?
|Wild Wolf
|I will PM you a link to my blog, which has tons of homemade dog cookie recipes.. all grain-free.
Peanut butter dog treat
> 1 large banana.
> 1 egg
> 1/3 cup peanut butter (no salt, no sugar).
> 1 tbsp honey.
> 1 cup rice flour.
> 1/2 cup ground flax seed.
> bake 300 degrees.
> 2 cups cooked ground chicken (fish, turkey, lamb,
goat, pork, beef).
> 2 cups brown rice.
> 1/2 cup dried cranberries.
> 1 cup cooked mashed sweet potato
or yams.
> 2 tbsp honey.
> 1 tsp rosemary.
> 1/4 tsp garlic powder or granulated garlic).
> 1 tsp ground cinnamon.
> combine all.
> bake at 375 degrees.
A friend just posted this on Facebook. I just may try this.
Both of these are grain/gluten free!
You will need the following:
1 pounds raw calf liver
1 can sardines packed in water (drained before use)
Pam Spray
Cookie sheet at least 12 x 16" non-stick with sides on it. If the cookie sheet isnt a non-stick one, line it with oven-safe parchment paper that is purchased at the grocery store. Its a white non burning paper made especially for the oven.
Garlic powder or salt (optional)
Preheat oven to 190 degrees.
Place liver, drained sardines, and a few shakes of garlic powder together into the blender. Pulse in small bursts to get it started and once it gets to the chunky stage, leave blender on for about 20-30 seconds to fully blend. This will create a thick paste.
NOTE: If your blender is small and low horse power, do this in smaller batches, then mix all
the batches together. You dont want to overtax your blender motor.
Spray your non-stick cookie sheet with a small amount of Pam making sure that you rub it into the corners of the pan with your fingers. Or, line the cookie sheet with the Parchment Paper that youve cut to fit the pan. If you use the Parchment Paper, it may curl up and not stay flat on the pan. For this you can put a dab of water in several spots on the cookie sheet then lay the Parchment on top of the water drops and smooth down. The water will hold it in place.
Pour the mixture on to the cookie sheet. Its thick, so you can use a rubber spatula to scrape the sides of the blender to get it all. Spread it out evenly to edges. Your goal is to avoid hills and valleys.
Place in 190 degree oven to bake.
Check pan after 40-50 minutes. If the liver mix has shrunk away from the sides, feels dry and rubbery to the touch and there is not any "stickiness," to it, you are ready to remove it from oven. If not, return to oven, and continue to check it about every 10 minutes or less if it is on the verge of being done.
NOTE: It may create a large bubble in the middle of the pan. Just take a butter knife and poke a few holes in it and continue baking.
Remove from oven and loosen the sides first, then under it and let cool for a few minutes so that you can handle it. It may break apart in places so dont worry about that. Place rubbery liver sheet on cutting board, and cut into about ¼ strips with scissors. Then cut strips to create small squares about the size of a dime. You can either keep them soft or you can place the cut squares back on to the cookie sheet, and return to oven to dry further for approximately an additional hour, but keep checking so as not to burn them. This will create a dehydrated chip.
Place them in a container or baggie after being completely cooled and store in the refrigerator.
Items needed:
Non Stick Fry Pan
Large Round Steak or Pork Chops or Calves Liver or Lamb
1. Trim off all fat on the edges and in-between and if it has bone, remove that too. If using Calves Liver, thaw, and blot well with paper towel to remove excess blood.
2. Take a pair of scissors (outstanding tool for cutting meat) and cut the meat into manageable pieces.
3. Choose a fry pan (non stick works the easiest) that will hold the amount of meat you bought, and give the pan a small drop of oil or a quick spray of Pam.
4. Heat the pan until really hot and drop in the meat pieces in to sizzle. Keep your heat high but dont leave the pan unattended.
5. Sprinkle on a little garlic powder or garlic salt if desired.
6. Let it sizzle for about a minute or two then flip over. Braise the other side (pour off the juice if there is too much) and remove from pan when the middle is pink (especially the Liver or it will crumble). Place on to paper towel, blot and let cool.
7. Take your scissors and cut all of the meat in strips about ¼ wide. Now take those strips and cut small pieces about the size of a ½ of a dime, (or whatever size you prefer).
8. Place small amounts into sealable snack baggies, then place those baggies into a sealable freezer baggie and place in freezer. When you need them, take out one or two baggies, place them in the frig and they will un-thaw. Of course the dogs love them frozen too, if you forget! They will unthaw quickly on the cupboard or in your pocket for training.
The process takes a little time but saves a lot of $$ and the dogs go crazy for them!
Bone Appétit My Furry Friends!
i found this one but i need to find coconut flour. amazon sells it but im seeing if i can find local
Any treat recipes?
I would really love to be able to bake my puppy some healthy snacks, but I have no idea where to start. Anyone have some ideas?
Sent from Petguide.com Free App
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text:
'"This [Game 7] is going to be fun," said Ward, who is 10-5 in goal for Carolina in the playoffs. "It's important that we embrace this moment and enjoy it. We find that we play our best when we're just out there doing our own thing, having some fun."'
Ward has been having some fun in post-season
June 1, 2006 Submitted by
Via: Edmonton Journal


text:
Infrastructure Ground Breaking Launches New Haven�s Historic Downtown Crossing
(NEW HAVEN, CT) � Decades ago, in the 1950s, a neighborhood in New Haven was destroyed for the construction of Route 34. In order to construct the highway, 1,481 families were displaced, hundreds of buildings were demolished and another neighborhood�the Hill�was cut off from Downtown. Today, a new chapter in New Haven history began to unfold as city, state and federal officials gathered for the first groundbreaking ceremony of the landmark Downtown Crossing project. Downtown Crossing will get rid of the Route 34 highway in New Haven and reconnect city streets to create a pedestrian and bicycle-friendly environment that will set the stage for further economic development.
New Haven Mayor John DeStefano, Jr. was joined by Governor Dannel Malloy and Congresswoman Rosa DeLauro today for the official groundbreaking of the first phase of the Downtown Crossing project. Each reflected on the collaboration of the city, state and federal governments in realizing the vision to bring resources together to assemble a strong foundation for sustained job growth.
Downtown Crossing is expected to create 2,000 construction jobs during the project, spurring $184 million in direct and indirect spending over the next three years, and 600 to 900 permanent jobs after the project�s completion. Designed by Parsons Brinckerhoff of Glastonbury, Connecticut, Phase 1 will be executed by contractor CJ Fucci, Inc. of New Haven. The project, the largest infrastructure project in New Haven in decades, is funded by the U.S. Department of Transportation�s Transportation Investment Generating Economic Recovery (TIGER) II grant, the city of New Haven and the State of Connecticut. The City is receiving $16 million in TIGER II grants for Phase 1 of Downtown Crossing.
�Today, we are reclaiming part of our City,� said New Haven Mayor John DeStefano Jr. �This ditch we are now standing in will once again be turned into a thriving, vibrant neighborhood. We are here doing this today because of a choice we made years ago to seriously pursue the removal of this highway. These infrastructure improvements will not only reclaim part of our City, but will allow for further development of the economic base New Haven is known for: knowledge based jobs in the science, medical, education and technology sectors.� He added, �This is an example of what can result when there is collaboration among various stakeholders and all levels of government are at the table.�
Downtown Crossing is the city�s plan to transform Route 34 East, from Union Avenue to Park Street. The plan will reclaim 10.5 acres of land ideally suited for transit-oriented development - a dense mix of commercial, retail, and housing located within an easy walk of transit. The land will be available for development, including residential, retail, health care and research facilities. The new city streets will be designed at a scale suitable and safe for all forms of transportation: pedestrians, bikes, public transit, and vehicles.
The first step in laying the groundwork is to fill the highway to the level of the streets that surround it, connecting it to the existing street grid and creating two urban boulevards. These infrastructure improvements include improvements to the surrounding roads, removal of the College Street Bridge deck which will be replaced by a new road once the area is filled and a new ramp into the neighboring Air Rights garage. There will also be extensive enhancements to make the area pedestrian and bike friendly. These infrastructure investments will allow for the development of the 100 College Street project, the $100 million, 10-story, 426,000 square foot, state-of-the-art, laboratory and office building, with ground-level retail. This 100 College Street project will get underway later this summer.
"Seeing the new Downtown Crossing take shape is special. I remember first working on this project over thirty years ago, and am proud to have seen it through to this point,� Congresswoman Rosa DeLauro said, noting, �but we are not done. Eventually we will have ten and a half acres of developable land, traffic safety will be dramatically enhanced, there will be more room for pedestrians and bikes to share the space, and residents will enjoy a better quality of life. Simply put, Downtown Crossing will help New Haven flourish for decades to come."
"State government is a committed partner in supporting economic growth in New Haven. We've invested more than $30 million to help small businesses expand and to firmly root Alexion in the community-and allocated more than $1.6 million to ensure New Haven schools are prepared to train the workforce of the future," said Governor Malloy. "Working with partners at the local and federal level, we can work toward an ambitious reimagining of this city."
This new infrastructure investment expands downtown New Haven alongside the Yale School of Medicine/Yale-New Haven Hospital campus and will reconnect the Hill neighborhood to the Medical District and Downtown. New Haven, a world-class center for education and research, is the biotech capital of Connecticut with 39 of the state's 52 biotech firms. The City, State and Winstanley Enterprises (the developer for 100 College Street) have been working on the project since 2007, and the Yale School of Medicine and Yale New Haven Hospital are active participants.
Members of New Haven Board of Alderman, the New Haven Legislative Delegation as well as business and community leaders attended the ceremony. Also in attendance were CT. Department of Community and Economic Development Commissioner Catherine Smith, CT Department of Transportation Commissioner James P. Redeker, U.S. Department of Transportation Regional FHWA Administrator Amy Jackson-Grove and New Haven Economic Development Administrator Kelly Murphy.
People are urged to stay up to date on detours and road closings that will result from construction by signing up for traffic alerts at the Downtown Crossing website: http://downtowncrossingnewhaven.com/ .