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rjquillin wrote:Taking this to Poli"ticks"
We ever going to see those 'corrected' numbers for the '96?
And some TN's?
Still likely to end up with a bit of everything.
Checked with WD. He's having problems getting hold of them. He's upping his level to badgering.
Guest Blogger
ThunderThighs wrote:Checked with WD. He's having problems getting hold of them. He's upping his level to badgering.
ok Here's what we DO know.
the current tasting notes are for the '97.
hard copy tasting notes DO exist for the '96, but we don't yet have them located.
We DO have a couple bottles conjured up that DO have a good chance of being tasted in next 2-3 days.
Please stay tuned and pardon the delay.
Very tempted by the 6-pack, as I almost always buy mixed offerings, but 6 bottles might be just a bit too much for me right now. What are the odds on getting a pack of 1 of each sometime in the near future?
fogtower wrote:I've had two shipments of mixed bottles. Every single one was bad and had to be poured out.
I had the same experience with mine. It was not good at all so to see the positive comments is somewhat shocking to me. I'm glad others have fared better, but I'm staying away!
I really enjoyed the 1997 and it was a bargain in my opinion. I'd be curious to taste the newer vintages to see how their wines drink young. They aren't charging any premium for the 2007 either. It's been said that if you couldn't make good wine in 2007, then you shouldn't be in the business of making wine.
I posted about the 1997 if you're interested: http://www.http://thefermentedfruit.com/1997-ardente-winery-cabernet-sauvingon-grand-riserva/.com/
ThunderThighs wrote:
Efforts to find the proper tasting notes have been symied. i think this may be a wine.woot first!
hopefully some newer tasting notes will be fourthcoming.
sorry about this.
I am also stunned by the lack on intel on the '96. As Ardente's self proclaimed second biggest fan (hats off to Fred), I feel that this should pull me out of my current buying freeze. I just need something to push me over the top. I wonder about some of the mixed reviews on the '97. I had a couple of so-so experiences with the wine after not drinking it for a while and I was worried that it may be over the hill (vegetal with acid and little fruit), however I went back to my notes and realized this needed a two hour decant. Whole new ballgame, we had bottles on back to back nights and they were fantastic. Good structure, lots of fruit, smooth as silk. They're not going to get any better, but they've got five years of great drinking left IMO. I don't know why Ardente wasn't selling them sooner, but I do know they are an obscene value and worth every bit of the $55 they're asking on the website. Now will someone please tell me how much of this enthusiasm I should lavish on the '96?
pulling the trigger tomorrow, 1 "96" and 1 "07"
fredrinaldi wrote:pulling the trigger tomorrow, 1 "96" and 1 "07"
What, you got no Pedroncelli today? Why wait?
rjquillin wrote:What, you got no Pedroncelli today? Why wait?
What would he do with 6 Mother Clone Zins?
I also just purchased one 1996 and one 2007 set.
From the previous Woot, the 1997 bottle I drank was great... pretty hearty and definitely needs to decant for over an hour. The 2002 was absolutely delicious almost immediately.
I think the 1996 might be a little bit of a gamble because I thought I remember reading that the 1997 should be close to the end of it's life... but heck, it could be worth the risk. 2007 is a safe bet on being good wine.
Looking forward to hearing what others think of it! Thanks for the offer Woot!
chipgreen wrote:What would he do with 6 Mother Clone Zins?
Fred seems to be making an effort to expand his horizons, and I'm sure many of us would pony up a shipping address if he really wanted to dispose of them.
For all of you sitting on the fence on this offer:
Stay there, but only for a little while longer.
Tonight a bottle shall be sacrificed to Quench the ravenous desires of the mob.
Tonight all shall be revealed.
cmaldoon wrote:For all of you sitting on the fence on this offer:
Stay there, but only for a little while longer.
Tonight a bottle shall be sacrificed to Quench the ravenous desires of the mob.
Tonight all shall be revealed.
You got one? You?!
Well before 22:00 while I still have FS please.
rjquillin wrote:Well before 22:00 while I still have FS please.
And your time zone is?? Waiting to pull any trigger based on a complete lack of information. Guess I'll have to wake up early. Thanks for sacrificing your Wednesday night to Woot tasting!
rjquillin wrote:Well before 22:00PDT while I still have FS please.
He's PDT as well, so about 30 minutes..
The 2006 won Bronze according to this link:
Some data on the 2007:
2007 Cabernet Sauvignon
92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Merlot, and 2% Cabernet Franc
Ardente Cabernet Sauvignon "Grande Riserva"
Red wine
Atlas Peak Appellation
13.5% Alcohol
pH: 3.58
sphervey wrote:And your time zone is?? Waiting to pull any trigger based on a complete lack of information. Guess I'll have to wake up early. Thanks for sacrificing your Wednesday night to Woot tasting!
I believe he's a west coaster.
cortot20 wrote:I believe he's a west coaster.
Thanks! I'll set the alarm - if good things are said I might miss out! (CST)
sphervey wrote:Thanks! I'll set the alarm - if good things are said I might miss out! (CST)
Sorry! A bit later than planned due to work going late. First notes will be up about 2000 PST
kylemittskus wrote:You got one? You?!
Only one bottle? Hopefully more than that and which vintage(s)?
rjquillin wrote:Only one bottle? Hopefully more than that and which vintage(s)?
Hmmm - west coast folks clearly seem to have an advantage to find those bottles... bah
Totally with you on this one Fred...Did exactly the same. Pulled the trigger already!
What always baffles me is that some wineries do not seem to understand or do not seem to care about the obvious correlation between intensity of winery participation and more/faster sales.
(Exceptions exist - if a wine is an established "auto-buy" for many, then the community dynamic works without the winery stepping in again)
Tick, tock, tick, tock, ...
rjquillin wrote:Tick, tock, tick, tock, ...
Ha! Drink faster! Drink faster!!!!!!! I feel like a Vulture . . . Or an over zealous oenophille.
2007 Ardente Cabernet Sauvignon Grande Reserva
Popped at 1955 PST
Color: Garnet (purplish red) with an expected lay deep center but a bit lighter on the edge than I expected. This wine is not as much of a black hole as some CA cabs are.
Nose: The first thing that I notice is that I can smell this wine while the glass is sitting on the table over a foot away. Not only do I smell it, but it is powerful enough for me to distinguish it from the smells of dinner warming in the oven. I have not had the joy of many wines with that much concentration on the nose.
The second thing I notice is that the nose is not just fruit fruit fruit and oak. There is a note, a fairly decent one in the area of smokiness/black olive earthiness. I like it!
Now, sticking my nose in the glass I get the more typical aromas of blackberry overlayed with a hint of mint and based with a slightly floral chocolate note.
Another swirl, another sniff... Definitely cedar this time and a touch of a very dark tar-y note.... interesting..... That's usually a Barolo thing.
Ok, I was looking for another fruit in the nose but ill stick with straight up blackberry but with LOTS of interesting non-fruit flavors layered on.
Palate: (you mean after half an hour I might FINALLY have a chance to taste this wine?)
First sip- my first sip was defined by a very constant mid level acidity that carried and cleansed my palate. I got a bit of cedar up front with it. But was dazzled by the persistency of the tang so promptly forgot further notes. That's ok, I'll try again!
Second sip- Ah! Now it strikes me how best to name this flavor- it is a deep but not sweet cranberry juice flavor. Think of very dark very ripe cranberries. The mouth feel is full without going over the top into an unctuous feeling
Third sip. Still the cranberries but now some blackberry or perhaps Kiwi(!). Also the tannin is coming through. Very dry and I'm betting it is ramping up to there being quite a mouthful as this wine gets more air.
The finish.... Mmmmmm. The finish.... As I swallow my tongue does not seem willing to let the wine go. The deep cranberry flavor sticks around solidly for 5 seconds before fading, as it fades, I notice the slightly sweet vanilla oak flavors layered under the fruit. This takes another 10+ seconds to fade away at which point I am left with just a tingling of tannin on my tongue to keep my mouth watering for the next sip.
Along with the cranberry flavors, I find the mint and cedar I found in the nose. The oak which I mentioned before can hardly be noticed until after swallowing at which point it brings a smoky note along with it. There is a green note helping keep interest at the top of the palate, somewhere between green bell and parsley.
I'm not done, but I'm going to go eat something before this wine hits me on an almost empty stomach.
cmaldoon wrote:
Nose: ...
... suspense
andreaserben wrote:... suspense
It's a baby, only 2007...
Thought one was coming my way too, but I think I didn't see the message in time. Oh well. Twisted Oak 2006 Tempranillo instead.
cmaldoon wrote:The finish.... Mmmmmm. The finish.... As I swallow my tongue does not seem willing to let the wine go. The deep cranberry flavor sticks around solidly for 5 seconds before fading, as it fades, I notice the slightly sweet vanilla oak flavors layered under the fruit. This takes another 10+ seconds to fade away at which point I am left with just a tingling of tannin on my tongue to keep my mouth watering for the next sip.
Seems you found your calling; oenophilic porno.
rjquillin wrote:Seems you found your calling; oenophilic porno.
He must know how to caress the glass just so as he's drinking to bring out the wine's naughty bits.
2007 Ardente Cabernet Sauvignon Grande Reserva - Continued
Ah yes, almost forgot the RPM taught "my palate" section:
I primarily consume cabernet and new world Syrah.
I will drink and enjoy cabs with anywhere between green notes and very dark black fruits as long as the wine has a good acidity level.
The three things i look for most in a wine are balance, concentration, and complexity in that order
This wine is fairly well balanced (8/10), if anything I am getting a bit TOO much acidity (oh baby will this bottle age between the acid and tannin... This will last at least another 20 years). It is well but not extraordinarily concentrated (7.5/10), and likewise for complexity.
This cab will please those who enjoy a complex cab, those who can deal with or enjoy a healthy dose of drying tannin, those who like a California cab which is not dark, oaky, and over extracted but still is very certainly Napa ripe fruit. ( Nobody is going to mistake this for an old world wine)
chipgreen wrote:He must know how to caress the glass just so as he's drinking to bring out the wine's naughty bits.
You made me blush!!
Crystal clear?
Any sediment?
Especially after traveling.
rjquillin wrote:Crystal clear?
Any sediment?
Especially after traveling.
I have not seen any sediment (though I rarely care unless I am pouring mud)
The core is pretty damn black so I'm sure there is micro sediment. I am also sure that this wine will throw a fair amount as it ages
The edges are crystal clear though. This is a well made wine.
I see that you purchased already though.
I personally may have to pick up a case... The question is if I go for 8 of these (and 2 each of the others) or just 12 of these and sit on them with all my other 2007s
Eating baby back ribs and I must say that this wine doesn't hold up to BBQ sauce as well as a hearty Syrah would.
I would stick to steak (which would be superb with this and which I had intended to purchase and fix... Until work ran late)
Edit: actually it's not half bad with this just as long as you are not washing down a mouthful of BBQ sauce... Nothing can compete with that.


text: Had a bit of trouble with my P238 safety....it would not engage (saftey position) if the hammer was in the cocked position. If you pushed the hammer back a hair her then it would engage. The problem accured after about 150 rounds. After inspection I found it needed to be honed or just touched with a file on the beveled side of the safety arm to clear the hammer when the hammer was in the cocked position. The safety actually, when engaged, rotates the hammer back a tiny bit more and lifts it off the seer....works fine again!

subset: commoncrawl


text:
Professor, Department of Pediatrics (Academic General Pediatrics)
Philip O. Ozuah, M.D., Ph.D., serves as professor in the departments of pediatrics and epidemiology & population health at Albert Einstein College of Medicine. He also is executive vice president and chief operating officer at Montefiore.
Dr. Ozuah joined the faculty of the department of pediatrics at Einstein/Montefiore in 1992 and served as Director of the Residency Training Program in Social Pediatrics from 1999 to 2005. In 2002, he was appointed Vice Chairman for Clinical and Educational Affairs of the Department of Pediatrics at the Albert Einstein College of Medicine and Montefiore Medical Center, and in 2003 he was promoted to the rank of Professor of Pediatrics and Family Medicine and Community Health. In 2005, he was appointed Interim University Chairman of the Departments of Pediatrics at both the College and Montefiore.
Dr. Ozuah's background includes a Medical Degree from the University of Ibadan, Nigeria; a rotating internship at the University of Nigeria Teaching Hospital; a Masters Degree in Education from the University of Southern California, Los Angeles; and a PhD in Educational Leadership and Administration from the University of Nebraska-Lincoln. He served his Pediatric Internship and Residency at the Albert Einstein College of Medicine/Montefiore Medical Center, and his Post-Doctoral Fellowship in Medical Education at the University of Southern California, School of Medicine, Los Angeles.
Dr. Ozuah's research has been focused on environmental exposures and medical education, and has been funded by the NIH, the Health Resources and Services Administration of DHHS, and many private foundations. His bibliography includes more than 110 publications in peer-reviewed journals and books, 200 published abstracts, and more than 250 presentations at national and international scientific meetings. He serves on the Editorial Board of the Journal Ambulatory Pediatrics is a reviewer for a variety of pediatric and environmental health journals, has been appointed to NIH Special Emphasis Panels on Education, and is currently a member of the NIH Study Section of Masters in Clinical Research Training Grants.
He has been the recipient of all the prestigious teaching awards offered by the Albert Einstein College of Medicine as well as its university department of pediatrics, including the William Obrinsky Award for Excellence in Student Teaching, the Lewis M. Fraad Award for Excellence in Resident Teaching, the Harry Gordon Award for Outstanding Clinical Teaching, the Samuel Rosen Award for Outstanding Teaching in the Clinical Curriculum, Leo M. Davidoff Society induction for Outstanding Achievement in Teaching, and induction as a faculty member into Alpha Omega Alpha Honor Medical Society. On a national level, the Ambulatory Pediatric Association recognized him in 2004 with its Outstanding Teaching Award and the Ray E. Helfer Award for Innovation in Pediatric Education. He was also the recipient of the APA's Helfer Award in 2003.
Material in this section is provided by individual faculty members who are solely responsible for its accuracy and content.


text:
How not to overdose on salt
By Brierley Wright, M.S., R.D., September 14, 2012 - 9:26am
Limiting sodium is important for healthy blood pressure and overall heart health. Yet most of us consume, on average, 3,400 milligrams of sodium each day. That's much more than the daily 2,300 mg recommended limit put out in the 2010 USDA Dietary Guidelines. (If that sounds like a lot to you, keep in mind it's the equivalent of just 1 teaspoon of table salt.)
Don't Miss: 6 Easy Ways to Cut Salt in Your Diet
Adults who are 51-plus and those of any age who are African-American or have high blood pressure, diabetes or chronic kidney disease should limit their sodium even more—to just 1,500 mg daily.
How can such a controlled diet not taste like cardboard? The secret is to use wholesome, healthy ingredients that are inherently delicious and enhance flavor with herbs and spices rather than loads of salt. To help you keep your sodium intake in check, we at EatingWell have developed this one-day meal plan—which clocks in at just under 2,000 calories and 1,500 mg of sodium. And be sure to read the shopping tips so you can sleuth out lower-sodium versions of packaged foods that are notorious salt offenders. (Here are 8 great ways to lower your blood pressure naturally, sodium aside.)
Don't Miss: What Does a 2,000-Calorie Day Look Like?
Here's your one-day meal plan:
2 oat waffles (139 cal, 270 mg sodium)
3/4 cup strawberries (40 cal, 1 mg sodium)
6 oz. nonfat plain Greek yogurt (100 cal, 70 mg sodium)
1 medium banana (105 cal, 1 mg sodium)
1/2 cup orange juice (61 cal, 3 mg sodium)
Total: 445 calories, 345 mg sodium
Morning Snack
2 prunes (46 cal, 0 mg sodium)
12 unsalted dry-roasted almonds (103 cal, 0 mg sodium)
Total: 149 calories, 0 mg sodium
Vegetable Sandwich (361 cal, 419 mg sodium):
• 1 oz. low-fat Swiss cheese (49 cal, 73 mg sodium)
• 3 tomato slices (11 cal, 3 mg sodium)
• 1/2 avocado (114 cal, 5 mg sodium)
• 1 Tbsp. cholesterol-free mayonnaise (50 cal, 120 mg sodium)
• 2 slices multigrain bread (138 cal, 218 mg sodium)
1 pear (103 cal, 2 mg sodium)
Total: 465 calories, 421 mg sodium
Afternoon Snack
1 Tbsp. unsalted creamy peanut butter (94 cal, 3 mg sodium)
2 brown-rice cakes (70 cal, 60 mg sodium)
Total: 164 calories, 63 mg sodium
White Bean Soup (Fassoulatha) (258 cal, 326 mg sodium)
1 whole-wheat roll (74 cal, 112 mg sodium)
Salad (300 cal, 90 mg sodium):
• 2 cups mixed salad greens (18 cal, 28 mg sodium)
• 12 cherry tomatoes (37 cal, 10 mg sodium)
• 1 cup sliced cucumber (14 cal, 2 mg sodium)
• 3 Tbsp. walnuts (147 cal, 1 mg sodium)
• 1 Tbsp. Honey-Mustard Vinaigrette (84 cal, 49 mg sodium)
Total: 632 calories, 528 mg sodium
Evening Snack
1/2 cup 1% cottage cheese (no salt added) (81 cal, 15 mg sodium)
3/4 cup fresh pineapple (62 cal, 1 mg sodium)
Total: 143 calories, 16 mg sodium
Daily Total: 1,997 calories, 1,373 mg sodium
Keeping sodium under a cap of 1,500 mg of sodium per day requires some shopping savvy. It's always worth your while to look for "unsalted," "no salt added" or "low-sodium" versions of products (think: peanut butter, cottage cheese, canned soups, etc.). But because the sodium content of other packaged foods isn't always as obvious, always compare brands. Here are a few helpful hints to guide you through the aisles:
✓ Breads and cereals: Most store-bought breads, including rolls, pita bread and regular sandwich slices, have a significant amount of salt added to them. Compare nutrition information when choosing.
✓ Cheeses: Many cheeses, including Cheddar, feta and Parmesan, are high in sodium—which is one reason you'll see Swiss, a cheese that's naturally lower in sodium, in this meal plan. If you'd rather use another cheese instead of Swiss, consider that you're likely adding sodium.
✓ Canned beans: Look for ones labeled "no- sodium" or "low-sodium." (These terms are regulated by the FDA and mean less than 5 mg and 140 mg per serving, respectively.) Rinsing beans before you use them can remove up to 35 percent of the excess sodium.
How do you keep your sodium intake in check? Tell us what you think below.
TAGS: Brierley Wright, M.S., R.D., Health Blog, Cooking tips, Good choices, Nutrition, Wellness
Brierley holds a master's degree in Nutrition Communication from the Friedman School of Nutrition Science and Policy at Tufts University.
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text:
can anyone pm me a link to some good ESB pictures?
can anyone pm me a link to some good ESB pictures?
Check the TDH wikia and gallery for good reference. Tons of pics there.
I don't have a link but the best paint job reference pictures I have seen are in the Star Wars Chronicles book for the original trilogy. It has Boba facing several different angles. Expensive book but totally worth it.
I have that book at home
I can scan some pages if you want
Won't be until later tonight or maybe even sunday though


text:
'The Sabres were just lucky to send the game to the extra period as they trailed 2-1 until the final minute of regualtion. With less than 30 seconds left Chris Drury won a faceoff in the Montreal zone with the Buffalo net empty. Ales Kotalik wound up with the puck and fired a slapshot from the point, Jason Pominville tipped the puck in front of the Montreal net and it went past Cristobal Huet.'
Kovalev KO's Sabres Win Streak In OT
February 10, 2006 Submitted by
Via: WGR-AM


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Release Date:
June 11, 2013
Schneck Medical Center and the Schneck Foundation have donated $50,000 to Indiana University-Purdue University Columbus (IUPUC) that will be used to support Division of Nursing doctoral faculty who are completing tenure-track research.
Gary Meyer, chief executive officer of Schneck Medical Center, said developing high-caliber nursing faculty will improve the health, health outcomes, and quality of life in Seymour and surrounding communities.
"Schneck strives to have the best in medical facilities, technology, equipment, and healthcare professionals. As the speed of change in the U.S. healthcare system continues to increase—and shows no signs of slowing—our need for well-educated, innovative, systems-oriented nurses is paramount," Meyer reported.
According to Dr. Beth Sharer, head of the IU School of Nursing at IUPUC, the funding will enable the Columbus campus to offer scholarships to faculty who are completing their research for tenured positions.
"Having tenured, doctorally prepared faculty is essential for our future growth," Sharer said. "Because of this gift, we will have more leverage to recruit and retain top-notch faculty whose talent and expertise will ensure we continue delivering excellence in nursing education."
The number of Bachelor of Science in Nursing (BSN) students at IUPUC has consistently grown in recent years. To meet workforce projections for BSN-prepared nurses by 2020, however, Sharer said the campus must educate even more students in the years ahead.
The nursing program at IUPUC is currently accredited as part of IUPUI but is seeking independent accreditation through the Commission on Collegiate Nursing Education (CCNE). That accreditation, Sharer notes, requires faculty to hold doctoral degrees.
IUPUC's goal is for at least half of its nursing faculty with doctorates to be in tenure-track positions. Tenure is a process used to measure the quality and productivity of individual instructors who are engaged in teaching, research, and other scholarly work.
As doctoral faculty seeking tenure, IUPUC faculty must complete intensive research projects over the course of two summers. Because of that workload and the hours required to complete their research, they are unable to simultaneously hold paid teaching positions, Sharer noted.
Nursing faculty who teach on IU's core Indianapolis and Bloomington campuses have been funded to pursue tenure-track research and scholarship for several years, an incentive that was previously unavailable in Columbus before the Schneck gift.
A 2010 report issued by the Institute of Medicine and the Robert Wood Johnson Foundation Initiative on the Future of Nursing, recommends that hospitals and other healthcare facilities increase the proportion of RNs with bachelor's degrees to at least 80 percent of their total nursing workforce by 2020.
Currently, many RNs employed at Schneck and other hospitals have only two-year associate degrees rather than advanced bachelor's degrees.
Vicki Johnson, vice president of nursing services and chief nursing officer at Schneck Medical center, explained that knowledgeable, skilled nurses are essential to the quality of patient care.
"We take pride in hiring well-qualified, passionate nurses. Our partnership with IUPUC is extremely important. We are glad the gift will help them recruit and retain highly educated nursing faculty. Together, we will ensure IUPUC remains at the forefront of innovation and excellence in nursing education," Johnson said.
For more information about this gift, contact:
For more information about the Division of Nursing at IUPUC, visit www.iupuc.edu/nursing.


text:
Native American Studies
Contact Information
Address: 112 Whitman Hall
Phone: 906-227-1397
Fax: 906-227-1396
Web Address: www.nmu.edu/nativeamericans
E-mail: email@example.com
Director: April Lindala
Native American Studies at NMU
The Center for Native American Studies oversees the Native American Studies minor program. The courses are designed for both Native American and non-Native American students so they can better understand human similarities and differences as well as recognize the contributions that Native Americans have made to the world, thereby widening the multicultural curriculum of Northern Michigan University.
Student Organizations
- Anishinaabe News
- Native American Student Association
Minor Program
Courses within the minor that can be used to satisfy liberal studies requirements are listed with the Roman numeral (in brackets) that coincides with the liberal studies division the course falls under.


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text:
|Topic Review (Newest First)
Re: DDW and bailing out
Originally Posted by SHNOOL View Post
Maybe it's just me, but I am not a big fan of preventers...
I sail shifty air a lot, and 90 degree shifts are commonplace. A preventer would keep the boom on the correct side, but perhaps at an exaggerated angle to the wind, causing excess heel, or worse broach.
Re: DDW and bailing out
Typically, on a Catalina 22, when reducing sail, you reef the main before changing the genoa...
Re: DDW and bailing out
For us due to solent rig to gybe the genny you need to roll it up then let it out on the new side. Get more speed and much less drama going wind and wing. Can keep the set up for 15+ degrees either side of DDW with just little tweaks. Have line attached to end of boom on both sides lead forward to bow and then back to cockpit. Controlled with clutch at side of cockpit. Preventor line has break in middle with quick release. Takes a second to set up and switch from side to side. Use it all the time and still have a head on my shoulders.
90 degree wind shifts must be hard to deal with. Fortunately don't have that problem.
Re: DDW and bailing out
Maybe it's just me, but I am not a big fan of preventers...
I sail shifty air a lot, and 90 degree shifts are commonplace. A preventer would keep the boom on the correct side, but perhaps at an exaggerated angle to the wind, causing excess heel, or worse broach.
The simplest/safest thing is to "chicken-gybe" and do the 270 to change direction...
But the RIGHT way, would be to "soft-gybe." Sheet in the main, lock the traveler amidships, start your move through the gybe, help the boom over. Coming from DDW to broad reach. We had to do 2 of these at the last couple hundred feet in our last race, in decent winds with 155 genoa up... It helps to keep the communications open with the crew (even if they are slowed with alcohol).
Accidental gybes are dangerous for every reason stated above... it's breaks spars, rigging, knuckles, and heads. It can swamp and or broach boats too.
For the record I try to avoid Wing on Wing as the winds pipe up mostly do to those 90 degree shifts I have to live with... but NOT practicing what I preach, we did a short stint at the end of the last race Wing on Wing, as well as 2 gybes. Crazier than that if the "RUN" had been longer, I'd have thrown the Symmetric up.
Re: DDW and bailing out
All you had to do was blow the jib sheet and you would not have been wing and wing. Nor would the boat have gone hard over.
I learned to sail on a catalina 22 and one of the things I learned is to not sail it DDW without a preventer.
I bring that rule to every boat I sail that has a boom lower than my head when standing on the cockpit seats (all boats for all intents and purposes).
I seldom use a whisker pole (don't own one).
With a preventer rigged, and no whisker on the jib you helm the boat to keep the jib full, and in the event of 'bad' stuff you simply blow the jib sheet and pull in the main to center. Even single handed it's simple, you only have to do one thing at a time.
Besides saving you from vodka infused idiots (the preventer would have stopped him) it also helps vodka infused helms men. You only have to steer to the jib.
Rig your preventer with a line long enough to reach a block on the bow and come back to the the winch/cleats on both sides.
Set the preventer with a clip/shackle on the boom and haul the boom forward with the winch on the other side.
Gybe by pulling in on mainsheet and letting out on the winch/cleated side, change shackles when centered and then trim to other side. You never loose control of the main, or the boom.
Saves gear smashing, and forehead repairs.
Re: DDW and bailing out
At the risk of some offense, gybing, wing on wing, etc.. is all part of sailing 101. If you can't safely do this in up to 25 knots of breeze in a keelboat, the best thing to be done is to sign up for some lessons or invite more experienced sailors out with you and have them show you how it's done. You aren't a sailor yet if this stuff isn't mastered no matter how many books have been read on the topic. It takes time, mileage, and experimentation. A few sessions in a laser in 10-12 knots of breeze will also help a ton. And those sailors you invite to help you figure things out? They can probably even manage it all even after a beer.
Re: DDW and bailing out
I agree with what has been said regarding the Captain's responsibility, communication and not drinking while sailing.
I am posting to add a little technique for future reference. Sailing WW you are set to heave to. Come up without jybeing, back wind the jib, set the tiller to steer to windward. Here you can reef the main.
If your priority is to get the jib down, I find the easiest way to do this in strong wind is to blanket the jib with the main. If WW I come up enough without jybeing to get the jib to collapse, ease the halyard and let it drop on deck. I do the same when on beam or broad reach, just turn down more so the jib collapses. At this point I can stow or change out sail. After changing for smaller jib I can come up close hauled sailing on the jib, ease the main only until it luffs, then put in a reef.
I am mostly a lake sailer where wind can be extremely shifty and gusty and these techniques have helped me.
Re: DDW and bailing out
Originally Posted by LooseDiamond View Post
Lessons taken from this experience: 1. Don't sail dead downwind and 2. Never wing/wing.
Good luck.
Re: DDW and bailing out
I shall avoid the "are heavy-air jibes safe when some of your sailhandlers are drunk?" issue, as i think it answers itself, and may have been raised partly in jest at the outset.
But in heavy air or light, I have a suggestion for those who cruise or daysail with assymmetrical chutes. ( I frankly think syms are easier to jibe, even with the pole, since you don't have to "wipe" the spinny over itself to change tacks, but I find I must yield to the modern world on this.)
Here it is: Do go to wing and wing, that will get the spin "pre-jibed". Then, jibe the main. Much less chance of task-overload on you and crew, and less chance of the sideways forces on the new jibe overpowering your rudder and putting you into a roundup-knockdown.
(Racers typically have less time and more crew so I wouldn't preach this to them. But for us less-pressed folk, it's worth considering. Even so, it goes better without too much vodka ;-)
Re: DDW and bailing out
How do you like your Dutchman?
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By Rob Kelly
Francis Coquelin insists Arsenal must not dwell on their defeat to Olympiacos ahead of Saturday's vital Premier League clash against West Brom.
A much-changed Gunners side took the lead at the Georgios Karaiskakis Stadium through Tomas Rosicky, before two second-half goals consigned them to a 2-1 loss.
While Coquelin was disappointed not to claim the three points that would have secured top spot in Group B, he says he is already focusing on Saturday's match against Steve Clarke's side.
"We started really well, we had a great first half and when you are winning 1-0 away you want to hold on to the result," Coquelin told Arsenal Player. "We dropped a little bit and they scored two goals, so we are really disappointed.
"It is a tough place, but let's not forget we are Arsenal Football Club and when you come here, everyone wants to win [against you]. We could have come back with a win so we are very frustrated.
"But now we have to concentrate on the next game, we have a really important match against West Brom and we want to get the three points. We had a few bad results recently, so we need the three points at the weekend."
Watch the full interview with Francis on Arsenal Player now.


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a place for zinesters - writers and readers
So, a few months ago I started Punk Tree Distro (facebook.com/punktreedistro, working on a real website as we speak). I know part of the point of running a distro is to contact and build relationships with individual zinesters, because that's where community comes from. People have lives, so things often get delayed and letters don't get sent, but a distro with only three or four zines in it isn't that interesting - and hard to take to a zine fest. The L.A. Zine Fest is next week, and I'm tabling no matter what, but I'm feeling a bit lackluster especially with all the buzz around the fest.
How do you build up stock and become not-boring without being unethical or a jackass? Should I just wait to launch the site until I pick up more things from individual people? I've considered ordering from AK Press or Microcosm, but the Joe Biel abuse history raises my feminist hackles. And ordering from other distros just to stock things in my own feels like cheating, and often isn't ethical.
Help a new grrrl with a distro out? : )
Views: 136
Good question! I'd love to hear what others say but as an aside - I am aware of the Micorcosm issue but AK Press also has an issue????
Hey Alyss.
I'm still pretty new to running a distro, but I think the thing that helped me most was being involved with Philly Zine Fest, it gave me the opportunity to meet a lot of really cool people at once. I did a lot of trading, and as I read the stack I brought home with me, I would contact the people whose zines I liked and ask if I could carry their zine.
I also have some friends whose zines I liked, and wanted to support, so for the most part, I just asked. You can also get buttons and postcards made to bulk up and diversify your inventory. Those things tend to sell well at fests and tabling events because they're cheap and cool.
You can also order some wholesale stuff from Cindy Crabb. Her zines are amazing. And Parcell Press offers a 30% discount on wholesale orders.
Maybe I'm out of the loop. What is the issue with AK?
Oh, nothing's really wrong with AK, they're just another example of a big distributor, heh.
Oh, right. I staff at an infoshop who orders from AK, they're fine. Super helpful. But kind of impractical where my distro is concerned, personally.
When I started my distro in 2005, I relied on big distros for my initial stock, as well as taking stock from distros that were shutting down. I put a note on my site explaining exactly where I got my stock from, and said that if any zinesters objected to my distroing their zine (since I hadn't gotten it from them directly) to please contact me and I would remove it from the distro immediately. No one ever asked me to stop distroing their zine.
If you feel like it's cheating to buy wholesale from other distros to establish yourself, perhaps if you put a note such as that up, or even sent a note to each zinester whose zine you bought explaining how you got their zine, maybe that would help the situation?
I agree with Sarah Arr! on this one. I ran a distro for seven years and one of the ways I built up my stock initially was to directly contact zinesters who's zines I was interested in and ask for a sample copy. If that doesn't work, you can always buy zines from them directly. A good way to check out new zines is to search around on etsy for subjects or themes that you're into.
Also if you have a zine yourself, trade with other zinesters! The zine fest is a great way to do that (I'll be there too!) but it's totally possible to do so online also. Check with your friends, see if they recommend zines, ask what their favorite zines are or what kinds of zines they like to buy from distros.
Hope this helps!
Yeah, trading zines is the way to go. You get constant mail, make new friends, and trading is a crucial community building tool.
There's really not anything wrong with stocking well loved zines from bigger distros. They need the support as much as individual zinesters.
I actually think that a cool thing to do might be to trade my zine to other distro owners for their zine in quantity. I've only done it once, but I really enjoyed the experience, and I love the idea of a wider audience for the stuff I have to say.
We started to build our stock at Portland Button Works by getting zines from our friends that we liked and thought would fit well in the distro. We worked really hard to get a good selection up before the online shop and brick and mortar went live. It was a lot of work but I think we gave ourselves enough lead time to make it work.
Thank you for all of the great responses everyone <3


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Ferts for Dummies? Please?
Im a noob to planted tanks, and seem to have ran headlong into this!
I got a $17 bottle of ferts, which ended up being just for floating plants, and i had stem plants and substrate plants, and they needed other nutrients. So I bought a bottle of Flourish Comprehensive Supplements. And though some of the plants are doing better, some are not quite failing, but doing worse than when i got them.
I hear terms like micros and macros, and how some nutrients are given in a gh booster?
Theres so much i dont understand, i thought id ask if there was a link to an all over explanation? Maybe a thread already written? Or if someone wanted to explain this all to me?
I would greatly appreciate this!!
Here's a link in the "FAQ" that could be helpful! : http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/26-planted-tank-faq/1074-all-about-fertilizer.html
Or,,,you could google Tom Barr's Non CO2 method, which is low tech style with scaled back EI dosing.
This is the method I chose and work's well just as Tom said it would.
I use dry fertz from aquariumfertilizer.com (macro-micro package).
No matter ,,high energy(high tech), or low energy (low tech), plant's do benefit from fetrilization of either substrate,water column,or both (better in my view).
Plants need about 16 elements to grow.
Some they need a lot of.
Some they need just a little.
Some of the things that we add to our tanks for other reasons also supply the plants with some of the things they need.
Hydrogen (H), Oxygen (O): A tank without hydrogen and oxygen may be safer according to the dihydrogen monoxide believers, but I prefer a tank filled with water.
Carbon (C): Most plants need carbon in the form of Carbon Dioxide. When they take in the carbon they start making other molecules with it, and someone figured out that they could supply the plants with carbon in the form of those molecules instead.
The next three are macros, and are the real, legal definition, fertilizers:
Nitrogen (N): Found in proteins, so fish food is one source. We measure Nitrogens as ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. Plants can use all three, but do not use fish food directly. It has to break down into ammonia. Often added to a planted tank in the form of KNO3, potassium nitrate. If your aquarium tests are already showing you have a lot of NO3, then you do not need to add more, but find out where it is coming from (tap water, fish food, other)
Phoshorus (P): Usually supplied as phosphate, comes in fish food. If you have enough nitrate from fish food you probably have enough phosphate, too. If you have to dose Nitrogen, then you probably have to dose phosphate, too.
Potassium (K): Aquarium plants seem to use a lot of potassium, and its supply in fish food is not as reliable as N or P. Even if you do not need to dose much else, I would dose K.
The next group are secondary nutrients. Plants need less of these than the ones listed so far.
Calcium (Ca) and Magnesium (Mg): When you test the GH or General Hardness Ca is one of the minerals tested, Magnesium is the other. Most tap water has enough of each, but very soft water might not. Most plants use Ca and Mg in a ratio of around 4 parts Ca to 1 part Mg. The ratio in the water does not have to be exactly that, though. Just so long as neither is zero. There are separate tests if the GH test shows the level is so low that you are suspicious of a problem. If you need to dose both, GH Booster is good. If you need to dose either separately there are materials to do that.
There are a few other minerals that are secondary, but are almost never in short supply.
Micros, the elements that plants use the least of are usually simply dosed as a group, in a blend.
Iron (Fe): Used by plants and not as often available from fish food. If you only needed to dose a couple of things, one of them would probably be iron.
Dosing macros as a blend that includes iron, if you test at all, just test for iron. Keep the iron in the right range, and assume all the other macros are fine.
Carbonates: Not an element, but the other most frequently discussed aquarium parameter:
Carbonates and bicarbonates are a buffer that stabilizes the pH. Low carbonates and the pH is more likely to vary. High carbonates and the pH is more likely to be high.
Roughly half the plants we grow in aquariums can use the carbonates as a source of carbon.
Nitrifying bacteria get the carbon they need from carbonates.
If you need to add carbonates there are several materials to do this. Baking soda is one of the most common.
Thank you so much!
So, my water is soft, very soft. About 1 drop GH and maybe two drops KH. My ph in my big tank is 6.2-6.4 and in my ten gal it's 6.2-6.0.
The melange I should be dosing calcium, and magnesium, right?
I do break up these Dr. Turtle calcium blocks for my snails, when I remember. It was the only calcium anything I could find, and I read that cuttle bone[for birds] can mess up your water?
Anyways, it's probably not enough, though I figured is mention it.
I feed NLS, so is this food a good source of phosphorus and potassium?
Is there a good, but not expensive, fert line I could use?
Also, test kits?
Skip the fert lines. They are all fairly expensive and you pay for and to ship a product that is 90% water.
Make the jump to dry. Its not that hard particularly with the guidance of folks here on the forum.
Here is a link to a guy that sells on the forums here.
Dry Ferts Supplier
if you want to go half way, and don't want to bother with measuring and mixing yourself check out nilocg's premeasured diy liquid ferts kit in the link above.
With GH so low I would dose a GH Booster. Depending on the fish, I would add enough to test 3 degrees GH for soft water fish, higher for hard water fish.
Then I would add enough baking soda to make the KH roughly the same. Does not have to be exact.
I do not think cuttlebone 'messes up the water'. Whoever said that is probably thinking that it will add minerals to the water (which it does) and can make the water harder, which some people do not want, but you do want. Sure, add cuttlebone. Some snails will actually crawl across it, and eat a bit, especially if a little algae grows on it.
NLS, like most fish food will add N, P, and most micros to the water, but not so much K or Fe.
If you want to try easing your way into fertilizers you could get bottled fertilizers, such as the Seachem line or any other. But as noted above, you are paying for a bottle of water, with just a little actual fertilizer in it. It is OK to do once, and practice dosing until you figure out what your plants want.
Then buy the dry products and refill the bottles.
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The attack on members of the Sri Lanka cricket team in Lahore sent a wave of fear and concern among members of the Pakistan government which now must confront the issue that violence is getting out of hand. The government announced it was in a "state of war" after masked gunmen ambushed the cricket team during which they injured six players and killed seven Pakistanis. The military-style attack bore a resemblance to the Mumbai terror assault which left over 170 dead. Pakistani officials believe the Islamist group, Lashkar-e-Taiba, played a role in the attack on the Sri Lanka team. The incident will most probably damage tourist travel and doom chances for Pakistan to host the World Cup in 2011.
Salmaan Taseer, Governor of the Punjab province, said "it was the same terrorists who attacked Mumbai" and noted the assailants had military training. Police claim they have arrested several "suspects" but there is no evidence they have cracked the gang itself. A major problem is the reality that Lashkar-e-Taiba has been trained by members of the Pakistan ISI and has close ties to military personnel in the Pakistan army. Will these men be arrested?


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Canisius freshman Andrew Romano shot a career-low 72 to move himself up the leaderboard by 52 spots and the Canisius golf team shot a team score of 300 on Monday to move up eight spots in the field on the second day of the Whiting-Turner Towson Invitational in Grasonville, Md. Canisius will enter the final round on Tuesday tied for 14th overall with a 36-hole score of 628.
Romano, one of four freshmen on this year's roster, is tied for 27th overall after he shot an even-par score of 72 to move his two-round score to 153. Fellow freshman Hunter Sagar shot a 75 in the second round and he's tied with senior Mike Spiotta for 64th in the field after Spiotta shot a five-over par 77.
As a team, Canisius' score of 300 on Monday was the third-lowest team score in the tournament, behind leaders William & Mary (292) and IUP (298). The Griffs enter the third and final round tied with Navy at 628, one stroke behind and six strokes behind 12th place Fairfield.
The final round of the Whiting-Turner Towson Invitational will tee off at 10 a.m., on Tuesday with golfers playing in foursomes as opposed to traditional three-man groups.
Courtesy: www.tomwolf.smugmug.com
Romano Helps Lead Golf up Leaderboard
Courtesy: Canisius College Athletics
Release: 04/01/2013


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- 5 Rocket Stocks for Gluttonous Turkey Day Gains
- Time to Sell These 5 'Toxic' Stocks
- 5 Earnings Short-Squeeze Plays
- 5 Must-See Charts
- 5 Stocks With Big Insider Buying
M&A Stocks Have More Room to Rally - 8594 views
By Jonas Elmerraji
Posted on Aug. 25, 2010
Mergers and acquisitions (better known on Wall Street as M&A) hold a special place in investors' minds. After all, generous buyout offers are one of the most immediate ways for shareholders to see massive gains in their positions. Despite the relative drought of organic M&A activity following the credit crunch of 2008, even the most conservative companies have been lured in by the discounted valuations potential acquisition targets are offering right now.
Part of the push to take on new M&A deals is coming from shareholders. According to some estimates, U.S. firms are sitting on more cash than any other time in history -- a total of $1.84 trillion. But while cash in the coffers does ease liquidity concerns, shareholders don't like seeing their cash sit unused.
As a result, $85 billion in M&A deals were announced last week, making it the biggest single week for M&A announcements since late 2009, when equity valuations were near their lowest following 2008's market sell-off.
While the stocks being acquired have already seen monumental jumps in share price, it's unlikely that investors have heard the end of their rallies. Shareholders know that their stakes are undervalued right now, and they're demanding even higher prices, sometimes inciting bidding wars. Sure enough, many buyers are capitulating, raising their stakes.
With all of that in mind, let's take a look at a handful of the stocks that saw buyout offers last week.
By far, last week's biggest deal was a $40 billion buyout offer for Potash Corp. (POT) from suitor BHP Billiton (BHP). The $130 per share cash offer, which was summarily rejected by Potash's board, would have given Potash shareholders a 20% premium on their share prices, but shares of the company have since rocketed past the offer price. In total, shares of Potash are up more than 51% in the last month.
The reason behind the jump above the offer price was the instant interest that Potash got from other firms potentially interested in acquiring Potash for a higher price. Potash is an industrial fertilizer producer, mining potash and producing phosphate and nitrogen at facilities spread throughout North and South America. The company's long-life assets make an attractive buy for a company like BHP, which is in the process of expanding its own potash mining operations. For those reasons, competitors don't want to see the Australian mining giant's hostile takeover bid go through.
Potash management has already recommended against tendering shares to BHP -- and announced that they're in talks for competing offers. Right now, Chinese petrochemical producer Sinochem and a private equity firm look like they might make a move to usurp BHP's offer. With BHP investors losing patience in chasing an unwilling Potash, it remains to be seen whether the firm will be willing to up its offer in the coming weeks.
Also see: Cramer's Trinity Leadership Stocks
Not all of last week's M&A activity was quite so contentious, however. Shares of anti-virus software developer McAfee (MFE) are up more than 47% this month following news that the company was being acquired by Intel (INTC). The chip giant paid $48 per share in cash, a $7.7 billion deal. Unlike Potash, where shares surpassed the offer price on hopes for a better deal, shares of McAfee are still pricing in around $1 per share of risk. That phenomenon will likely offer some trade potential for amateur merger arbitrageurs.
McAfee's business provides Intel with product differentiation as the chipmaker adds more software offerings to its lineup. It also presents the possibility of adding advanced security features to Intel's next-generation microchips, an option that competitors won't be able to replicate easily.
The McAfee acquisition also helps Intel move toward a bigger presence in mobile computing devices -- such as smartphones and tablet PCs -- that pose bigger security risks simply because of the nature of data that they store. If Intel can carve out a niche with the industry's most secure chip offerings, it's likely to generate a revenue stream that will easily eclipse McAfee's acquisition price.
Also see: 10 Most Attractively Valued Dow Stocks
The biggest gainer of the group in the last month, though, has been 3Par (PAR), a tech firm that develops utility data storage systems for enterprise customers. Shares of 3Par stock are up more than 184% in the past 30 days on news of a buyout offer from Dell (DELL).
But 3Par's future is far from locked in. A bidding war among tech giants is breaking out right now for this small-cap stock's storage technology. On Monday, Hewlett-Packard (HPQ) announced a $24 per share offer for 3Par, outbidding Dell's $18 offer. 3Par is currently trading at around $27, a phenomenon that suggests that the Street is pricing in potential new offers, whether a re-up bid from Dell or a completely new third party offer. Investors would do well to keep their ears to the market right now.
Also see: Top-Rated Computer Hardware Stocks
Ultimately, while M&A is on the uptick this month, shareholders of potential acquisition targets aren't letting their stakes go without a substantial premium. More than a few stocks are fundamentally undervalued on Wall Street right now, and their owners know it.
To see these M&A plays in action, check out the dedicated portfolio on Stockpickr.
>>5 Stocks With Rising Expectations
Follow Stockpickr on Twitter and become a fan on Facebook.
At the time of publication, author had no positions in stocks mentioned.
Jonas Elmerraji, based out of Baltimore, is the editor and portfolio manager of the Rhino Stock Report, a free investment advisory that returned 15% in 2008. He is a contributor to numerous financial outlets, including Forbes and Investopedia, and has been featured in Investor's Business Daily, in Consumer's Digest and on MSNBC.com.


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Reviewed By Wallace W (GROVEPORT, OH) Reviewed for a 2006 Honda Accord —3/12/2016 6:59 PM
They came as described and all the parts were there too. Had no problems with the installation and they work great. Very simple yet so refined!!!! Haven't had any problems and they work wonders at night and with the fog thru the hills.


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|Topic Review (Newest First)
I would tend to concur on the bad ground..
Try (if you haven't already) running a ground wire from the tank to the gauge to the sender body and see if the situation doesn't go back to the way it tested on the bench..
6v 12 v help
Sorry Doc, just can't check this off the list. I'm missing something basic I think. On the bench all is fine. Installed in the car - way off. I had the entire bezel on the bench, hooked up to a car battery, sender in water, etc. When I installed it I even used the same wire from the unit to the sender (with the extra resistors soldered in line). When I start the car, cold, it reads 180 degrees and pegs in a couple of minutes. Why would it change in the car?
My first thought was poor ground, but I've beat that idea to death.
The old sender over time may have changed value from mechanical wear, and not you have added that what was missing...
It would be better for you to do an online search for basic electronic theory, under Resistance , and it's properties..OR: get a basic electrical / Electronic book and read that chapter..
In Short, in certain configurations, resistances (series, parallel, series/parallel) become Additive, Divisible, or remain the same and wattage (usable current ) Doubles..or any three like resistances to ground will 1/2 the voltage..and so on..You find all your answers in that chapter..A good read should you be interested..
If you can't Find the exact value Resistance you need to perform within the range you desire..figure the "RANGE" of resistance it operates within..For Instance, 0 to 100 ohms..and you need a 17 ohm resistor..you can try, 15 or 20, but if not close enough..go this way:
Find a "Linear Taper" Variable potentiometer , (A Volume control pot..) , within the range you require..In this case probably 0 to 500 ohms is as close as you'll find at the local rat shack..
Using Half the pot..Center wiper to the gauge, and either end tap to the sender..(this will effectively 1/2 the value of the pot..if it's 500 ohms, one end to center will be approx 250 ohms .. and so on..) Install on the sender line..power up the gauge and "Adjust" the "Volume Control" for the most accurate reading..Once satisfied..Glue the shaft at that point..and get a large shrink tubing to fit over the pot, shrink it down and tie wrap it out of the way..
The only thing you need to be aware of is the wattage of the pot as opposed to the resistor..If you are running a 1 watt resistor , you must use a 1 watt pot or higher..else you will let out the factory installed smoke ..and it won't function.
If all else fails for you, and I doubt it will, your on the right track..let me know, I can design a circuit for you that uses an op amp to control the gauge..but it will require some circuit card building and the Chip and some added electronic components to fabricate it..
Solder the resistors together and to the wires. Use a wire to the gauge so you can mount the resistors where you have room. They should not get hot but place them where they are not against something that might melt just to be safe.
Get some "SHRINK WRAP" from where you got your resistors. They should know what it is. If not Rad Shack has some or any local electrical parts house.
Shrink wrap is a tube you cut to slide over your resistors. Make sure it covers all exposed wire too. Use a heat gun or hair dryer and heat it. It will "shrink" down in size insulating the exposed wires and connections.
If you solder the wire to the gauge, you can put some shrink wrap over the connection to help keep corrosion from forming. Shrink wrap will present a much cleaner look than tape.
You asked about series and parallel resistors. There is a formula for determining total resistance. In series you just add them like you did and you get total resistance.
In parallel you have more than one current path. This actually reduces the total resistance of the circuit. The formula basically has you multiply the resistor values and divide that value by the sum of the resistor values. Any time you parallel any resistor with the same value you 1/2 it. If you have 3-10 ohm reisitors in parallel you have 10 divided by 3 or 3.33.
All gauges are not linear or move a specific amount with a specific change in what you are measuring. If you look at some temp gauges they change 50* in the first 1/4 arc and then move 50* in the next 3/4 of the arc. This is why there is sssssooooo many senders out there.
I applaude your tenacity to get your factory gauge working. I also see why Doc has such a stellar reputation for helping.
6v - 12 v help
Doc, can only find 1s 10s 50s in the 10 watt shielded resistors.
I wired 2 10s together (5 ohms resistance) and a 1 tagged on the end (series) and it reads 6 on the meter. It is within 10 degrees of actual and reads a touch high (which is better than low) so I think I am set.
any no-nos before I make this a permanent installation? don
6v to 12 v help
Well Doc. With your kind and generous assistance, I would like to continue my education. I am making progress with the temp gauge, here is where I am.
1. On the bench, I have used a variety of Ohms resistors to plot the curve of my temp gauge.
2. Using a pot of water that I can both control and record the temp of the water, I have tracked the ohms resistance present in 3 different sending units through a variety of temperatures from 100 to 212.
(all 3 had the approximate high and low values of my gauge, but varied in the linear curve)
3. (This is where I previously hit the wall ) When I hook up a sender to the gauge and the heat the water, the gauge does not respond properly. For example, at 50 ohms resistance the gauge reads about 130 degrees. But when the water reaches about 145 degrees (where the sending unit has a reading of about 50 ohms) The gauge starts to climb unitl it reads about 190. With the water temp above 145 degrees, it just pegs the gauge.
Last night (out of frustration mostly) I added ohms resistors to the sending unit wire. It worked! With a resistor, any resistor, in the line - the gauge would give me a stable reading that was in line with the bench test guidelines. I finally settled on 7 Ohms as the neccesary resistor for one of the sending units. So my question is... What gives??
Why does the resistor in the line stabilize the feedback from the sender?
Did the original 41 sending unit have something that is missing from modern units to accomplish this?
Now for step 4. To permanently install a 7 ohm resistor in the sender line.
This leads to my next question. I didn't have a 7 ohm resistor, but in experimenting came upon another mystery. When I wire 2 - 10 ohm resistors end to end, it creates 20 ohms of resistance. When I wire 2 of them together side by side, it creates 5 ohms of resistance? When I wired a 10 and a 22 side by side, I got 7 ohms of resistance? Can you explain this? I will be looking for a thermal shielded 7 ohm resistor today, but if I can't find one a 10 and a 20 wired side by side may be close enough. any problem with that scenario?
Thanks again Doc.
Doc here,
The only thing the WATTAGE of the resistor will effect is it's ability to sink or transfer heat from it to it's surrounding area without burning itself up..you may always go higher on wattage if space is not a problem..
It's the ohmic value you must abide by..
6v to 12 v conversion
Hey Doc, got sidetracked with vacations etc. About the linearity on the temp gauge/sender issue. You recommended 1 watt (or 2 half watt) resistors. I noticed radio shack had some 10 watt resistors that looked nice and stout, with apparently a heat resistant shield, that would apear to be more durable under the hood. What is the effect of using 10 watt, rather than 1 watt, resistors in this application? don
Doc Here,
OK, on the first post..
To make it simple..just strip the red wire from the solenoid that goes to some "mid~point " splice and tons of tape where the second red ties in..
In other words all that should be left on the alternator is THE BROWN wire and a Stub of the red wire from the top plug, next to the brow wire ...
NOW, run a 70 amp fuse link directly from the starter solenoid battery cable bolt, then attach a RED 10 gauge wire to it, route that to the alternator, at the bolt or + OUTPUT lug at the back..and cut the wire...
Next take your second red, The Regulator switching, route that from the plug to the area of the + bolt or lug on the back of the alternator cut that there....Strip both wires, and Get a YELLOW ring terminal, CRIMP BOTH wires into it, and bolt it on the + lug bolt...
Leave the Brown wire alone , it is the idiot lamp..
You need only one fuse link for this circuit as your running an equiv, circuit, through the same link using one wire.
OK, On the Sender..It is perfectly acceptable to "Pad" a range for linearity, SO long as the upper scale of temp is not off the map..
I.E..It does not go from 180 to peg...
and the errors are only a few degrees + / - actual, otherwise you might as well not run a gauge at all..just get a lamp..it would be as accurate.. (maybe) Point is..If it is way out of the ballpark..except for one "small range".. you run the risk of engine damage..
If it gives a Good range that you can live with , and are aware of the errors at certain points..get that value resistor..in a 1 watt version ( or 2 1/2 watts twisted and soldered together) and solder it in line on the sender wire. 1/2 watt will probably get a little warm..
12v to 6 v temp sending unit
We are making progress here Doc. Picked up another sending unit that was supposed to match my needed values. Wired it all up on the bench and, damn, it worked. Of course, we now get to talk about "linearity" (sp).
After chasing it up and down the range with my little 2 cup coffe maker and a candy thermometer, I narrowed down the problem. Not sure this is Kosher, but what the hell. I wired a 100 ohm resistor into the sender line and got an accurate reading from about 160 degrees to 180 degrees. At about 195 degrees I had to replace it with a 70 ohm resistor to get the right gauge reading, at 210 I had to drop to a 30 ohm resistor. [the specs on the sender were 450 ohms at cold to 30 ohms at 220, so the sender could be performing properly, just not linear with the gauge, is that right? ]
If you are going to tell me what I think you're going to tell me, speak slowly and use small words like you were talking to a child. skip that, todays kids would probably get it before I do. Just remember, the gauge has been modified once already. don
By the way, I had one of those spiritual moments, Just sitting there looking at a temperature gauge that was working.
12v to 6v help
OK Doc. Before I rip it's guts out, let me walk through it once. Never used this "quote" response, so bear with me.
Doc here,
OK, to Clean all that up, Strip out that wire..(except the brown wire..)
Install a fuse link at the Starter solenoid..70 amp. From there run One 10 gauge wire to the big bolt on the alternator..
From the top plug, locate the red wire there, and cut it long enough to reach the big terminal, and cut it and install a ring terminal, Bolt it to the big terminal.
The brown wire will remain the same.
You need only 1 fuse link this way on the alternator.
Next on the wire that brings power to the car..to the fuse buss (panel) , locate that wire (should also be on the solenoid, or single terminal at or near the battery..(It's the wire that when you pull it, the whole car goes dead from power..) Install a 70 amp fuse link there. This will protect the whole system..
That "Wire" that you said was crimped..sounds like the fuse link..but scrap it all and do it as above. It's Cleaner.
As far as that gauge..
Try these guys,
Gauge restorations
Tell them you'd like to convert it to a volt gauge and also will need the gauge re~silk screened to match a volt gauge from amp meter..See if it is cost effective, and what they can do for you.
12v to 6 v temp sending unit
Here we go again Doc. I just don't know enough to ask an intelligent question.
There are 3 wires coming out of the alternator, as in your diagram. (One off a terminal on the top, the other out of a push in connector along with the brown wire). 2 of them look like 10 ga. power wires (Red). They connect in the middle and it looks like one goes to the battery, via the starter, and the other to the main fuse block. (guessing here cause it goes into a large harness). When I say they are connected in the middle, literally, about 2 feet out of the alternator it looks like the insulation was pulled back and the 2 wires are clampled together with a big staple(?), wrapped in electrical tape, and then both continue on) Guess I misunderstood again. I thought one sent power to recharge the battery and the other to the system based on demand. That's why I was puzzled to see them connected together. (also thought this was an example of parallel wiring - which is still a mystery to me).
So. I will install a 70 amp fusible link in the wire coming off the solenoid. Your diagram showed 2, so I wondered where to put the second, since I don't have the typical horn relay.
Reason I ask which side to put it on, based on my assumptions above - I assumed the lead to the fuse box would not carry as much power as the line to the starter/battery, so it might be safer, but I don't know what the hell I'm talking about. . Yes, I can see how a defunct gauge would shut you down.
I've attached a picture of a gauge. Think I might find a volmeter gauge I could sub in for one this size and shape? Don't know when they went to voltmeters, but from about 55 on they seem to favor round gauges, or idiot lights. I could probably swap out the face plate to make it look OK. I really wanted to avoid some aftermarket gauges hanging off the dash.
thanks again, don
Some will tell you "I've used them for 30 years, Never had a problem.." It only takes one time...to go tragically wrong...
The Amp gauge will always install between where the battery bolts to the source (like at the starter, ) and the load, the WHOLE car where the fuse buss wire connects at the starter solenoid....Current will go through the meter on to the car ..to be effective..
6v to 12 v help
Well Doc. I did all those tests and came up blank, so I pulled it out and went back to the bench. It is definetly the gauge. Funny it didn't do it the first time I ran the resistance tests, but it is doing it now. Maybe that original voltage reducer didn't reduce enough and messed it up.
fortunately, the car came with a spare in a box of stuff. It's an after market, but pretty close. It has been modified with what looks like some resistors soldered to the field terminals, so of course the values are different, but I can handle that. I'll let you know how I make out in a day or two.
In the meantime, what about the amp gauge? It works, but is not hooked up. I've heard not to use it, and others who have had no trouble. i don't know of an aftermarket volt meter i could substitute into the pod. Got any thoughts on using the original?
If so, Since my system is wired in parallel (I assume that's what it is since my two alternator wires are connected in the middle) can I hook the gauge in one side, or do I have to split them to wire it in in series?
According to AZ, my alternator was putting out 52 amps under the load test. I assume that is the combined output from both sides? Also hope to add A/C soon, so factor that in.
Also, I can find no fusible links in the system. Your diagram shows one on each leg. Should they be closer to the battery, or closer to the alternator? What amp rating would you recommend?
BTW, you mentioned running 2 busses. 12 v and 6 v. Not sure what that means, cause I don't know what a buss is. Everything on the car is 12 v, except the gas and temp gauge.
Doc, is there any way to repay your kindness here?
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Have the Buffalo Sabres thrown in the towel? Comments from ESPN analysts after the Sabres lackluster performance against the Boston Bruins Thursday that they apparently have given up on the season held true to form Saturday night in Toronto. The Sabres looked like they were just going through the motions and not having any desire to even be on the ice as they were blanked by the Maple Leafs 2-0.
Sabres hit rock bottom in Toronto
March 24, 2002 Submitted by
Via: Sabres Central


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Heidi & Shawn
September 14
Walnut Creek, California
Q & A with the Bride:
1. What was the one thing about your venue that made you know it was the one?
That is a tough one. It was a balancing act between budget and location. I always knew that I wanted a garden wedding. The Gardens at Heather Farms just hit everything we were looking for including location (near both of our families), beautiful rose garden for the ceremony as well as an amazing backdrop for a wedding. I also grew up playing tennis across the street, so the site felt very comfortable.
2. Which three details from your wedding were your favorites?
1. All of our DIY projects, especially the centerpieces and the flowers. Most of the centerpieces were galvanized pots filled with succulents my mom, Shawn and I had been collecting over the last year. For the flowers, my mom and aunt made all of the bridal bouquets, which were so beautiful. The bridal bouquets did double duty for the wedding and as centerpieces for the bridal party tables. We put them in antique mason jars we had found. My mom, aunt and family also made all the floral arrangements for some of the guest tables and key tables at the reception.
2. The photo booth. This was a splurge for us as far as budget goes, and it was so worth it! Almost all the guests got involved and the pictures are classic! These pics also served as part of the guest book.
3. Mason jar wine glasses! Shawn and I hunted all of Oakland looking for different glass candlesticks to make what has become known as "white trash wine glasses." Each candlestick had beads in our wedding colors (purple, green and silver) and was glued to a mason jar. We wanted something special for our parents, best woman, maid of honor, and matron of honor as they gave their toasts. They were all very excited to take them home as well. Such a conversation starter!
3. Give us the one moment in your wedding day you can't stop thinking about.
This is the hardest question of all! Especially since we were surrounded by our closest family and friends, which meant the world to me! If I have to choose only one out of a fabulous day, it was spending so much time with my now husband without having to worry about anything. All the stress was gone and Friday the 13th over (my wedding bag with my planning book, journal, joint check book, cash for tips, marriage license was stolen at the rehearsal the day before but did not realize it until Friday the 13th. We spent most of the day trying to amend what had been lost). I'm not usually big on PDA, but after all the wedding planning and the day finally arriving, we were just inseparable and really had the best time! I almost giggled as I remembered advice I had been give by several people to make sure to take moments away from the wedding for just Shawn and I that was definitely not a problem!


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Information For...
FBAA. Calendar of Student Events
The Student Life Office is responsible for keeping the student body and campus community informed of the various activities that relate to student life.
A weekly calendar of upcoming events is developed and distributed by the Student Life Office via email to all currently enrolled students, faculty and staff as well as published on MySPC. The Student Life Office is also responsible for approval and posting of announcements and posters at Levelland, Reese and Plainview locations, with the assistance of the Dean of the Reese Center and the Director of the Plainview Center.
Information to appear in the weekly calendar should be submitted to the Student Life Office at least one week prior to the distribution date. These calendars are vital to campus communications; therefore, every effort should be made to keep the calendar accurate and up-to-date.
Revision approved by SPC Executive Council


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Aug 01, 2014
In today's IT landscape, data centers and their networks are the lifeline to your business. Although the idea is simple, the execution is not - leaving IT departments looking for new ways to optimize data center and network performance. This informative guide explores the importance of infrastructure convergence and outlines the key benefits of this strategy, including:
Enhanced data center efficiency
Simplified systems management... and more


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I was not planning on evacuating. I never had before. My entire extended family evacuates every time there is a hurricane heading our way and I never do. I actually believed I would attend a construction meeting the next morning—Monday, Aug. 29, 2005—if the wind and rain weren't too bad.
I received calls from friends and family around the country on Sunday, all begging me to evacuate. I had a houseguest, and Sunday afternoon we watched the mayor, city council, and governor all get on TV, imploring people to leave. I had never seen that before. I remember feeling scared, for the first time, as they described the severity of the storm and what might happen to the city.
We called the area airports and found a flight for my friend leaving Alexandria, La., the next day. I thought of the people in my office who did not own cars. I tried to call them. No one picked up. Finally, one answered his cell phone and told me everyone had already evacuated. My friend and I jumped in my car and pulled out of the driveway.
It took us nine hours to reach Baton Rouge, La.—normally an hour-and-15-minute drive. I was afraid I would run out of gas, so we drove with the windows open and the air conditioner off. I could see the storm in my rearview mirror. The sky was black near the horizon. We arrived in Alexandria at 4:00 a.m., but all flights leaving from there had been cancelled. I got my friend to another airport in Shreveport, La., in time for a noon fiight. I had a public bid opening scheduled that night in Natchitoches, La., for the furniture package for a convention center my firm had designed. When I showed up, people looked like they'd seen a ghost. After the bid opening, I ate dinner with friends in Natchitoches, returned to the bed and breakfast where I was staying, and went to sleep. At some point the next morning, I turned on the TV and saw that New Orleans had flooded. I felt like I was sleepwalking for quite some time after that.
I stayed in Natchitoches for two weeks. The city manager bought a TV for his office so I could watch what was happening in New Orleans. I spent my days there, watching the news and working on the furniture package. The crazy thing was not knowing where anyone had gone—not my relatives, my staff, or my friends. We have become so dependent on cell phones that I never bothered to ask where anyone would be going during an evacuation. Some of my staff called the government offices for the city of Natchitoches to ask if anyone there knew where I was. Eventually I got landline telephone numbers for all of them.
I drove to the East Coast two weeks after the storm—to Andover, Mass., where one of my sisters lives. I was not sure where to go or what to do next. I happened to be president of AIA New Orleans at the time, so I decided my next move should be to visit with AIA National. I had no agenda, but I knew I didn't want anyone there to forget us. So I next drove to Washington, D.C., and worked at AIA headquarters every day for three weeks. Staff members gave me a desk, computer, and phone and put me in a hotel nearby. They were and continue to be incredibly supportive of the entire Gulf Coast reconstruction effort.
moving forward During my weeks in Washington, a group that included David Downey, Assoc. AIA, managing director of the AIA's Center for Communities by Design; Jim Dinegar, AIA's chief operating officer at the time; and displaced New Orleanians (myself included) crafted a proposal to the Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA) seeking funding for a statewide planning conference. We never got a response. We would discover often in the ensuing months that the enabling legislation that created FEMA doesn't allow for many things that are needed after a disaster of great magnitude. I suggested to my new friends at AIA that we raise the money for the conference ourselves. Within two days, they had done so.
The event came to be called the Louisiana Recovery and Rebuilding Conference and convened Nov. 10–12, 2005, in New Orleans. Its format was educational, with panels of public officials, architects, planners, engineers, and businesspeople speaking on such topics as housing and economic development. The panelists answered questions from the audience, with both parties collaborating to formulate principles for rebuilding.
I found a Dutch engineer to bring fresh perspective to the discussion and was fascinated by what he said. He spoke about better, less expensive ways to build levees, floodwalls, flood-gates, and canals. He said it was pure folly to bring fingers of water into the city, protected only by levees. He talked of the need for political will and funding. He told us that in the Netherlands, the No. 1 political priority is flood protection. My heart fell when I heard that. Flood control for Louisiana isn't a national priority in the United States—it's not even on Congress' radar.
The prevailing mood at this conference was one of excitement. For the first time in three months, people seemed genuinely hopeful. There was a limited amount of space, and I received calls for weeks from people begging to be included. We tried to squeeze everyone in who wanted to be there.
Afterward, a small group of local architects and interested citizens continued to meet on Tuesday evenings. The goal was to keep the principles formulated at the conference alive, to implement them, to transform New Orleans. We decided to form a new nonprofit, called CityWorks. Stephen Braquet, FAIA, Michael Bell, AIA, and I began speaking all around the country about post-Katrina New Orleans, raising money. We hoped to model CityWorks after SPUR in San Francisco (www.spur.org) and the Regional Plan Association of the New York–New Jersey–Connecticut area (www.rpa.org)—both organizations dedicated to education and advocacy for excellence in urban planning and design, as well as good government.
During the first six months after the storm, CityWorks began donating time to neighborhood associations. The most remarkable thing, to me, was that people were driving long distances to attend the association meetings. Prior to the storm, neighborhood meetings were usually quiet. But now, everyone was speaking at once, and people were angry. They also had a great passion for bringing their neighborhoods back—in a better way than they had been before. Seeing people come again and again to weekend meetings made me feel very hopeful that the city would come back, regardless of the government's effort or lack thereof.
As we were launching CityWorks, Braquet—supported by myself and the other AIA New Orleans board members—led a revolution to make our chapter one of the best and most active in the nation. We hired full-time staff, got a storefront, and tripled the revenue of the chapter in 2006. The chapter has reached out to the community in many ways, most notably in a program that we initially called the Architect Pairing Program. Indigent homeowners were paired with 60 of our members, who provided design services at little or no cost.


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If you would like to help the genealogy world then indexing is the way to go. In the past I have helped index, census, monumental inscriptions, wills and parish registers, all projects have given me a great sense of achievement. Of course I have also greatly benefited from other peoples indexing work, so why don't you come and join in and start indexing.
The LDS are always keen to have volunteers for their indexing projects. You don't need to be a Church member to become an indexer.
More information can be found at …….


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Use Adobe Illustrator Draw to craft scalable vector designs that can be edited in Illustrator CC and placed in Photoshop CC.
What you'll need
Use Illustrator Draw to create vector illustrations on your iPhone, iPad, iPad Pro, or Android smartphone. Draw freeform using five vector brushes and use layers to add details and complexity to your drawings.
You can also trace a reference image added from photos on your device, CC Libraries and Files, Market, and Adobe Stock. When done, you can send your drawings to Illustrator CC on the desktop where they will appear as paths and layers so you can continue to refine your artwork and incorporate into final design projects.
Note: The screenshots in this tutorial show Illustrator Draw on an iPad. The user interface may vary between iPad, iPad Pro, iPhone, and Android devices.
Sign into the app with your Adobe ID, or create one for free. Tap the Illustrator Draw icon to view Settings, then choose Preferences. If you're left handed, set the position of your Toolbar to Right.
Tip: Tap View Tutorials for helpful tips on brush options, gesture shortcuts, and other techniques.
Tap the Illustrator Draw icon to exit Settings, and then tap + to start a new project with five artboards. Tap on the title to give your project a name. Tap an artboard to start drawing.
Let's first insert an image in the photo layer.
Tap the layers icon and tap Photo Layer to add artwork to trace.
To add an image from Adobe Stock, type a search term; we searched "luna moth" in our example. Tap an image thumbnail, tap Save Preview, and save it to My Library. Tap OK, and your image will be saved to your photo layer.
You can reduce the opacity of the photo layer to make it easy to trace. Tap layers and drag the opacity slider.
Tip: You can license images from Adobe Stock in Draw if you want to utilize high-resolution original images in your drawing projects.
The toolbar comes with 5 brushes and an eraser. Tap once on a tool to select it, or double-tap to change its settings.
Tap and hold Size or Opacity, then scrub up and down to change the value. Tap Color to access the picker, App Themes, and colors from your CC Library.
Keep your favorite brushes close at hand. To switch out a default brush from the toolbar, tap and hold a brush, then select a new one, such as the basic taper brush shown in our example.
If you like using a certain brush for most of your work, you can add it in different sizes, opacities, and colors.
Use pinch gestures to zoom in and out. You can zoom up to 64x to view fine details in your drawing.
Use the eraser to erase and refine your brush strokes. Double-tap the eraser to change the size.
Tap the undo icon to step back; tap and hold to access the redo icon.
Tip: Swipe left with two fingers to undo your last step. Swipe right to redo.
Tap the layers icon and tap + to add a new Draw layer. Tap "…" once to duplicate, move, or reflect the contents of a layer.
To rearrange layers, tap and hold anywhere on the layer to move it to a new position in the stack.
Tip: On each artboard, you can have 1 photo layer, and up to 10 drawing layers, which keeps your drawing flexible and easy to manage.
If you're working on an iPad, iPad Pro, or iPhone, tap the shapes icon and select any App Shape, or Capture Shapes saved in your CC Libraries.
Place two fingers inside the shape to move it anywhere on the page or rotate it. Pinch inside the shape to enlarge or reduce its size.
You can draw around an App Shape to trace it with a brush, or double-tap inside the shape to stamp it. Note: You can only stamp, but not trace shapes added from CC Libraries.
Alternatively, launch Capture CC directly from Draw by tapping + in the top right of the shapes menu.
To delete an artboard from a project, tap Close to return to the project view, then tap the Edit Project icon. Tap to select the artboard—you can also select multiple art boards—and then tap the delete icon.
To add an artboard, tap the Add new drawing icon in project view. A new artboard is added at the top of the project.
To delete an entire project, tap the Delete icon and tap OK.
To view your projects at once, tap the grid icon to view projects in a gallery. Tap the project view icon to return.
Tap the Share/Send To icon to send your artwork to a variety of destinations. If you choose Send to Illustrator CC, the drawing will open as paths and layers when you launch Illustrator. You can edit and enhance your artwork further by recoloring it, adding type, or directly modifying vector paths.
Tip: Use Send to Photoshop to use drawings in your designs.


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Cera and Cody Smith of Elizabethtown announce the birth of a daughter, Madysen Cheyenne Smith, on Dec. 27, 2010, at Hardin Memorial Hospital in Elizabethtown.
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I'm a Theravada Buddhist from Scandinavia, Norway. I'm 46 yrs old male. Work with telecom business. My buddhistinterest is in anapanasati meditation, and to contemplate dhamma as I experience it. Else I try live and practise as a good layman, at least as good as it is possible for me under the conditions I have. I'm open minded, not too big fan of rituals and conventions, but I do have great respect for the ones who are, and participate happily from time to time. Hopefully I will enjoy and grow from the diversity of buddhists this forum represents.
Best whishes to everyone


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U of O Enactus team shines at national competition
Release Date: 4/10/2014
The University of the Ozarks' Enactus team advanced to the quarterfinals last week in the 2014 Enactus United States National Exposition in Cincinnati, Ohio.
The U of O Enactus team advanced to the quarterfinals of the 2014 Enactus United States National Exposition in Cincinnati, Ohio, last week.
More than 300 teams from across the country took part in the national competition. The Ozarks Enactus team completed 12 service projects and 746 hours of community service throughout the previous year, reaching 10 countries and more than 32,000 individuals.
"Our team's presentation was amazing and the judges shared with the team their excitement about the positive impact their projects had," said Enactus advisor and Business Professor Dr. Rickey Casey. "The team that won in our league in the quarterfinals ultimately took first place at the competition. The University of the Ozarks team made a positive difference in the local and international community. "
The Ozarks team earned a trophy for advancing to the quarterfinals and also received recognition for placing as a finalist in the Wal-Mart Women Entrepreneurship Grant.
"U of O Enactus has developed a culture of teamwork and dedication, fueled by our passion to give back to the community," said Enactus President Jose O'Connor. "It is an honor to be part of such a distinctive team that motivates individuals and offers them the necessary tools to succeed. I'm so proud of my Enactus team. Their hard work and dedication was the key to success in the competitions. I wouldn't trade them for any other team."


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ELON, N.C. -- No. 1 North Carolina scored 14 runs after the fifth inning
to claim its 30th win of the year Tuesday night at Elon (20-14), 15-3.
The Tar Heels (30-2) overcame a 2-1 deficit entering the sixth inning and scored four runs in the sixth, one in the seventh, five in the eighth and four more in the ninth to blow the game open.
Carolina's top four hitters combined to go 11-for-20 with 10 runs scored and seven RBIs, with Brian Holberton, Colin Moran and Skye Bolt all picking up three hits apiece and Landon Lassiter adding a pair.
The Tar Heels hit a pair of home runs in the five-run eighth inning as Matt Roberts hit his second, a solo shot, before Skye Bolt connected on a two-run shot to dead center field, his sixth of the campaign.
Senior Chris Munnelly improved to 3-0 on the year as he threw 5.1 innings of three-run ball. Sophomore Chris McCue came on to get the Tar Heels out of trouble in the sixth inning and threw 2.2 scoreless innings of relief while the Carolina bats blew the game open.
Ten different Tar Heels recorded a hit on the night, while nine batters registered a RBI. Sophomore Mike Zolk singled home a pair of runs on the day, while freshman Matt Campbell tallied his first career hit, a RBI triple in the ninth inning.
Carolina will return to Boshamer Stadium for a 6 p.m. contest against Liberty Wednesday night.