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As you all know (even if you don't ) Xbmc as unified old plugins, theme, scripts ... in ADDONS system. These addons are available in zip format, or directly in XBMC with the repository: http://passion-xbmc.org/addons/?Page=Vie...n.xbmc.org
We couldn't miss that ! That's why we decided to introduce you our Repository
If you have difficulties to download the repo for FRODO, click here for direct URL
Our Repository will also provide you Nightly Build Themes that were available from Skin Nightly Build in previous version. Still compilated every night, skinners are welcome to ask to be in
If you have problems, you can post on this thread.
Special Thanks
Tolriq (who have writted the original code, what helps a lot!!!), Willynuisance (The icon and fanart creator),
Frost and ppic (Beta-testers) and all others that i might forgot...
- Download repo.zip
- In XBMC, go in Settings / Addons / install from .zip file
- Select the zip previously downloaded
- Now it's done, you've got access to all XBMC-Passion addons
how to add an addon on the Repo
All developer goup from xbmc-passion have access to upload (just come and see us if you want to be able to do so).
Le's go there http://passion-xbmc.org/addons/
- Clic on Add.
- Select your addon zip file.
- Website will analyse it on it's own, then will immediately put it on repo.

subset: commoncrawl


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New Items
New Tattoo Supplies and Body Piercing Wholesale
Check out our latest additions to our inventory of wholesale piercing and tattoo supplies. We're excited about these latest additions to our inventory and know you'll be too. New machines, accessories, educational materials and phenomenal inks: Monster Steel is always offering something fresh and new that you can share with your staff and retail customers.
We understand that you have a business to run and don't have a lot of time to be scouring online and offline catalogs for new merchandise. That's why our buyers are constantly monitoring the latest trends and technologies in our industry. When they find something that they know will help you serve your customers and grow your business, they start the sourcing process so we can get it up on our website and into your shop.
Whether you are looking for tattoo machines, inks, cleanroom supplies, or aftercare products, check out our new items first. We feature all of our new products on this page, making it easy for you to put your next order together. Once you've selected new items to try out, be sure to spend some time in the rest of the site: In addition to tattoo supplies, we offer a full range of piercing equipment, jewelry, and wholesale belt buckles.
As always, Monster Steel remains committed to delivering the highest quality products to our customers. We offer respected brands such as TatSoul, Gorilla Grip, and Eternal Tattoo Ink. We also continue to search out new and exciting brands that meet our quality standards. We know that if we are going to stay competitive, we need to help you do the same. Our products are selected and sourced with our customers' success in mind.
Have a look around, and check out our new offerings. If you have any questions, don't hesitate to contact us online or by phone at 1-800-630-9256.


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If you have a health emergency, please call 911.
Other questions, please contact us at:
Kovler Diabetes Center 773-702-2371 or 800-989-6740
Valet available on Maryland Ave.
Paid garages on 59th and Maryland & 57th and Drexel.
Questions about how to make a donation?
Have other questions? Contact Us!
Be the first to hear about Kovler family events, research studies, classes, research and new discoveries.


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"ShopWalk is an Image Consulting company based in Chicago owned by Danielle Lutz. Lutz has been called a stylist and makeover darling for local Chicagoans, company executives and socialites throughout the US. Lutz has a talent for helping men and women to develop their personal style and to dress effortlessly and confidently for their active lifestyles."
Forbes February 5, 2010
In addition to one-on-one image consulting, ShopWalk offers guided shopping tours to 5 Chicago neighborhoods seven days a week. ShopWalks may be taken as a group or as a private tour.


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Great Horned Owl
Photograph by Joel Sartore
The most common owl in North and South America, the great horned owl has adapted to a wide variety of habitats and climates.
Spider Exoskeleton
Photography by Paul Zahl
The empty exoskeleton of a huntsman spider, like this one in Arizona, is only slightly less creepy than the real thing. These imposing arachnids can be huge, with some species exceeding 5 inches (12 centimeters) in diameter. They're generally shy though, and their bite, though painful, is otherwise harmless.
Gaboon Viper
Photograph by Michael Nichols
A close-up shows the watchful eye of a Gaboon viper, Africa's largest viper. These highly venomous snakes can reach six feet (two meters) long and weigh 40 pounds (20 kilograms). Their fangs are the longest of any poisonous snake on Earth, growing up to two inches (five centimeters) long.
Vampire Bat
Photograph by Bruce Dale
A vampire bat laps blood from a sleeping calf somewhere in the United States. These archetypal eerie animals are the only mammals that subsist solely on blood.
Tarantula Feeding
Photograph by Paul Zahl
The tarantula's appearance is worse than its bite. Tarantula venom is weaker than that of a honeybee and, though painful, is virtually harmless to humans.
Gray Wolf With Carcass
Photograph by Joel Sartore
In everything from pop songs to literature to Saturday morning cartoons, humans have long vilified wolves. They once roamed throughout North America, but their spine-tingling howls were nearly extinguished in the U.S. by ranchers trying to protect their livestock. Efforts to restore wolves to the wild are succeeding, though. Here a gray wolf fiercely guards its meal at the International Wolf Center in Ely, Minnesota.
Black Cat
Photograph by Brian Gordon Green
The object of superstition worldwide, black cats are often considered harbingers of bad luck. This one seems unaware of his power over humans though, as he lounges on a park bench in Savannah, Georgia.
More Animal Photos
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Toxin Expert
Zoltan Takacs, Herpetologist and Toxinologist
Snake venom could save your life, says Zoltan Takacs.


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LEXINGTON - With the score tied at 50-50 with 5 minutes left in the fourth quarter, Montgomery County scored six unanswered points and never trailed the rest of way en route to a Sweet 16 State Tournament quarterfinal victory Friday night over John Hardin. The final score was 66-57.
The Bulldogs, winners of the 5th Region championship, jumped in front early and led by seven at the end of the first quarter. The game was tied at 26 by the half before Montgomery County surged ahead and recorded their 33rd win in 37 tries this season and reach Saturday night's semifinals.
Montgomery County's shooting touch was a key to victory. The team hit 50 percent of its attempts including half of its three-point tries. By contrast, John Hardin hit 22-of-56 two-pointers for 39.3 percent and also were 6-of-12 from beyond the three-point arch.
Montgomery County guard Bryan Wallace led all scorers with 21 points. Omar Prewitt and Darius Jones added 11 each.
John Hardin got 19 points from Patrick Anderson and 12 each by Brandon Price and Daveon Greene.
In other quarterfinal action Friday, Hopkinsville defeated Graves County 50-34 and Madison Central topped Covington Holmes 65-61. In Friday's final game, Ballard cruised past Knott County Central 68-53 to earn a date with Montgomery County in the semifinals.
Look for an online update with more details to come plus story and photo coverage in Sunday's print edition of The News-Enterprise.
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Advice to Parents Whose Child will be the First in the Family to Go to College
Mark Kantrowitz
March 26, 2012
My wife and I are looking for help in getting our son into college. He is a junior in high school. His mother and I are on disability. My wife is fighting stage four breast cancer. I was hurt at work two years ago. We would like to see our son go to college but there is no way we would be able to pay for it. My wife's education is 11 years and mine is 7 years. We are hoping we can get some help. I was told because of our situation there would be lots of help available to us, but being uneducated ourselves it's very difficult for us to even know how to look. My wife was given two to four years to live by her doctor at Dana-Farber in Boston. That was two years ago and we are praying for her to live to see him graduate high school and longer. Any help or advice you can give us would mean a lot to us. — Jim R.
Planning and paying for college is difficult even for parents who have been to college. It is complicated. The alphabet soup of acronyms like FAFSA and EFC can discourage and intimidate some families. Most families worry about missing something important. They often worry more about what they don't know than about what they do know.
Do not panic. There only a few things you really need to do to get financial aid for college.
First, find yourself a "mentor" who can help you understand the steps you need to take. This should be someone who has recent knowledge and experience helping students pay for college, such as a high school guidance counselor or the financial aid administrator at a local college. It could also be a family friend, a teacher or someone you know from church. Beware of anybody who is trying to sell you a product or service, as their advice may be self-serving. It is also important that your mentor's knowledge is based on recent experience. Friends who went to college many years ago may mean well, but financial aid changes a lot every year.
Fastweb's College Power Bulletin is a short four-page guide that discusses in simple terms why a student should go to college and how to pay for college. (See also the Fastweb article Unique Concerns of First-Generation College Students for practical tips on making the most of the freshman year in college.)
Your son will be considered a first generation college student. A first generation college student is a student whose parents and siblings have never gone to college. In some cases a student will be considered a first generation college student if neither parent has obtained a Bachelor's degree, even if one of the parents has an Associate's degree or Certificate.
There are many scholarships available for first generation college students. Sometimes these are called "first in family" scholarships. The Coca Cola Scholars Foundation sponsors one of the largest scholarship programs for first generation college students through about 400 colleges. So ask each college whether they have scholarships and other special assistance for first generation college students. Also ask your church if they offer any college scholarships. Other scholarships are listed in the Fastweb article Scholarships for First Generation Students.
Additional scholarships for first generation college students are included in the Fastweb scholarship database. Create a personal background profile for your son to find scholarships for which he is eligible. This is a free service. To see scholarships for first generation college students, edit your son's scholarship search profile by clicking on the "My Profile" link in the upper right hand corner of the Fastweb web site. Then click on "Parent Activities". Check the box for "Didn't Attend/Graduate College" in the list of Parent Attributes. While editing the profile, look for other relevant student and parent attributes. Students who answer the optional questions tend to match twice as many scholarships as students who answer only the required questions. For example, there's a parent attribute for "Cancer, Survivor/Living With". (Several scholarships for children of parents who have had cancer can be found at www.finaid.org/cancer, but more scholarships are listed in the Fastweb scholarship database.)
Need Money to Pay for College?
Every semester, Fastweb helps thousands of students pay for school by matching them to scholarships, grants, and internships, for which they actually qualify. You'll find scholarships like the Course Hero's $5,000 Scholarship, and easy to enter scholarships like Niche $2,000 No Essay Scholarship, and internships with companies like Apple, Google, Dreamworks, and even NASA!
Join today to get matched to scholarships or internships for you!


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Have you ever purchased from PartSelect.com before?
Thank you for helping make our site better.
PartSelect Number PS340571
The surface burner plug-in block kit features a newer-style terminal block. This kit is designed for use with ranges and cooktops. This terminal block is how the coil element on your stove connects to the inner wiring of your appliance. Without this connection your burner element would not get the electrical current it needs to heat up. When your element will not heat at all, or if it is not heating properly it is likely an issue with the terminal block. You need to remove the element to replace this part. While you have the element out, inspect the element and the terminal for any corrosion, arcing, or discoloration. If you notice any damage to the element or the terminals we recommend you replace this part as well. This kit includes two metal brackets, two pre-crimped high-temperature wire leads, two ceramic wire nuts, two heat-shrinking insulators, and a mounting screw. Before you begin this repair, make sure you have unplugged your appliance.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Amana, Roper, Magic Chef, Maytag, KitchenAid, Hardwick, Litton, Admiral, Caloric, Norge, Kenmore, Crosley, Estate, Jenn-Air, Hoover.
This part works with the following products: Range, Cooktop, Microwave Oven Combo.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Drilled out old and broken hold down clips, installed new ones(4). Cut old wires attached to surface plug in block, striped wires, and attached new plugin kit(4), warmed up heat shrink with a hair dryer, put in new drip bowels, the stove is like new. I ordered the parts on line early one morning, the next day they were at my door and installed that day, everything that I ordered was there, and fit properly. Way to go Part Select.com Jon
Help other customers find the most helpful instructions.
Were these instructions helpful?
One screw holds the block onto the stove top. Had to clean out fitting for phillips screwdriver or screw would have stripped because it was old with lots of buildup. Even cleaned out, this screw required great force with phillips screwdriver to keep from stripping. Caution! If you strip it, you'll have to drill it out! The rest was a snap. Cut the old wires leading to the old block (not too close to where wires disappear into back of stove, though!). Strip insulation off both wires and attach with the connectors that came in the kit. Then push the wires into the block, and finally, attach the block back to the stove top (new screw is supplied). Restore power and everything should be fine. One problem: Roper/Whirlpool built their appliance in such a way that when the connector block shorts out, it usually takes the infinite switch with it. So I ended up having to go back and purchase that switch as well (which just so happens to cost twice to three times as much!). If you put it all back together and it still doesn't work, that's probably what happened, so go ahead and remove the knob panel and check that switch (it's right behind the control knobs on the front). You will probably find a burned connector at the back top left or the switch. Don't forget to write down which wire goes where (or just take a picture of it).
First, I pulled the stove away from the wall and unplugged it from the wall outlet. I then removed all of the burners and pans. I removed the upper part of the back cover on the stove to reveal the wiring harness, from the reostats to the burners. I made sure that the length of the new harrness was the same as the old one. I then checked the color of the wires to make sure they corrosponded with the old ones. ( Before removing the wires, I used a sharpie permanent black marker and wrote the color of each wire next to where it connected.) Then I removed all of the wires from the connectors on the reostats. I then removed the screws from the bracket that holds the wire harness to the stove and the one from the short green grounding wire. This way you can remove the top of the stove by raising it and sliding it to the left. I then removed the screws from the burner sockets and removed the harness. I then installed the new harness in reverse. As with the grounding wire and the wire connections on the reastats. The only problem I incurred was that the steel bracket that hold the burner socket to the stove top was to long. The burner would not plug into the socket far enough to make a good connection. So I replaced them with the ones in "The Newer Style Plug-in Block Kit". ( I had purchased these not realizing that the sockets came on the wire harness). So it all worked out in the end. Overall It is a pretty simple job with one philips head screw driver and a little muscle to move the stove.
I followed the instructions on removing the existing burner, recepticle, and section of wire. Then followed same instructions for reinstalling above new parts. The instructions were simple and straight forward. The only gluich was that I had to drill out the rivets holding in the old hold down clips. I drilled these out with an 1/8" bit on the burner side off the opening.
I unplugged the stove from the outlet, then removed the two burners I was going to be working on and the drip pans. Then I raised the top part of the stove and removed the screws holding the plug-in blocks to the stove. Then I cut the two wires going to the old plug-in block and stripped the wires back to match the new wire parts. Then I placed the sleeves over the new wires, then I placed the new wire beside the wire I stripped on the stove and screw on the wire cap making sure it was tight. I repeated this three more times, once I had all four wires connected I then placed the sleeves over the connections and heated them up until they were formed around the connection. Once I had all the connections done I placed one wire at a time into the plug-in block until it locked into place ( I looked at my old plug-in blocks first to make sure I placed the new wires in the correct way ).I then used the metal mounting bracket that matched my old ones and snapped the correct one onto each plug-in block. Before mounting them onto the stove I compared them to my old ones to make sure they were correct. Then I used the new screws to mount them to the stove. I took a second look at everything I had done before closing the top cover of my stove. After lowering the cover back into place I put both the drip covers in place and then installed the burners.I then plugged the stove back into the outlet and tried the burners. This was very simple and the video on the web site shows this very well which made my job very simple.
The first thing I did was to turn the power off to the stove by turning the Stove circuit breaker off at the Main breaker panel. I next removed the 4 burners by pulling them out of their plug-in blocks. I then removed the four screws that held the top of the stove to the body so I could access the bad plug-in block, the screws were located under each of the burners drip pans. I next removed the screw holding the bad block. I lifted up the top of the stove so as to relocate the bad block, with wires connected, through the opening of the back burner. The bad block was located in the front rt part of the stove and by rerouting this to the back I could lay the top down and have easy access to what I needed to replace. I next used the knife to make a cut down the length of the old shrink tubing so as to gain access to the old splice. I next removed the old wire nuts which allowed the removal of the bad block. I then install the new clips into the new block. I installed one each shrink tubing onto each of the pigtails from the new clips and twisted the one new wire to the stove wiring harnes were the old wire was connected . I connected the seconded wire in the same manner. I pulled on each wire to verify that they were tightly secured together. I then positioned each shrink tubing over each wire nut (you have to fold the wire nut and wires down against the wire so as the shrink tubing will slip over the wire nut) and used a heating tool (hair dryer on high) to shrink the tubing around the wire nutted connection. I next installed the metal clip that would hold the block to the stove top. I placed the new block back to the location where the old block came from and secured it with the new screw provided by the kit. I re-installed the four screws to hold the top down, plugged in the four burners, turned the power on at the breaker box and turned the burner on to test that it work.
Thought we was going to have to replace the range all together, due to most parts not being available for this model anymore. Since this is an expensive model, we did not look forward to having to replace it. So I thought just by chance I would check to see if anyone had parts to help in repairing it. Part Select did happen to have the Surface Plug-in block kit that was needed. After going at least a year with this problem, I am sooooo happy to say it is finally fixed and working great! Thanks much Parts Select.
Turn the power off to the unit. Remove the cold element by lifting up and pulling out. Remove the drip pan. Remove the element plug screw and pull the plug up and out of the socket. Cut the leads to the plug as close to the plug end as possible to allow enough wire to splice the new plug in. Strip the insullation back 3/8" to allow for splicing. Install the shrink tube collar on the wire and place one new lead (prestripped at the factory)next to the old wire and place the wire nut provided over the bare wire ends and twist it on until it is tight. Bend the wire nut splice back over one of the leads and slide the shrink tape over it. Heat up the shrink tape with a hair dryer to make it tight over the wire nut connection. Repeat the process for the next lead. Slide the leads into the new socket. Install the socket and secure the the new screw provided. Reinstall the drip pan and plug in the heat element. Follow the same procedure for each element socket replaced. Turn the power back on.
replaced old, worn blocks with new style surface plug in block kits - all 4 burners. Completely resolved the problem at very low cost (less than $50.00).
Followed instructions from previous repair story!!Pulled old burner out. Unscrewed plug element. Cut old wires back about 6 inches from plug. Attached new part with wire nuts provided and covered with shrink sleeves provided. Attached plug with provided screw and slipped in new element. Works great!!I want to thank the previous posters for posting their detailed repair stories....without reading those, I may have called a repair service and paid big bucks. Thanks to all previous posters for the detailed information they provided!! PS...The parts arrived in amazingly quick!!
1. Turn off circuit breaker, pull out element and remove reflector pan.2. Unfasten terminal block mounting screw and remove terminal block from casing.3. Cut wires as close to defective terminal block as possible (not as per instructions) since you will need the maximum possible length of wire.4. Slip on heat shrink sleeves, strip stove wires and connect to new terminal block per instructions.5. Heat shrink sleeves per instructions.
Simple to do. Remove old element, remove screw holding socket, cut the socket wires with 2 inches to spare, assemble the newsocket and wires with heat shrink tubing, strip range wires, apply the wire nuts as instructed and shrink the tubning with a heat gun.Screw on the socket to the range. Shut the lid and install the element.The replacemnet screw is thicker than the original one, so you might want to drill out the hole very slightly. I did not but the resistance was high on getting the screw fully seated.Works great
removed old Plug-in block by removing 1 screw and cutting 2 wires. (Screw was so tight and rusty that I had to use vise grips to remove it). Installed new Plug-in block with wire nuts and heat shrink wraps. YOU just have to make sure the wires are seated in the block properly. This job was much easier than I anticipated. The burner works great now!
Drilled a pilot hole with a 1/16 th drill bit and tapped off screw head.
Removed 2 screws, cut the wires, pulled the part out that the element plugs into. Replaced the old part with the new one and put the screws back in to hold it, reconnected the wires and plugged in the element. Turned stove on and Valaaaa! It was fixed in 10 minutes! Thanks for the great repair parts!
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The PartSelect logo is a Registered Trademark of Atlantic Laundry Centres, Ltd.
Copyright © 1999-2017 , Eldis Group Partnership. All rights reserved.


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Home > News & Events > Events Calendar > The Role of Religiously-Based Nonprofits in U.S. Social Policy. Frontline with Faculty Series.
The objective of the session will be to explore where such agencies "fit" in the social system, how they differ among themselves and how they conflict and produce specific policy challenges. http://hausercenter.harvard.edu/?p=1925 J. Bryan Hehir is the Parker Gilbert Montgomery Professor of the Practice of Religion and Public Life. He is also the Secretary for Health Care and Social Services in the Archdiocese of Boston. His research and writing focus on ethics and foreign policy and the role of religion in world politics and in American society. He served on the faculty of Georgetown University (1984 to 1992) and the Harvard Divinity School (1993 to 2001). His writings include: "The Moral Measurement of War: A Tradition of Continuity and Change; Military Intervention and National Sovereignty; Catholicism and Democracy;" and "Social Values and Public Policy: A Contribution from a Religious Tradition."


text: Diagonal Stripe Knit Top Style: 570076451 Out of Stock Love it? Everyone else did too. This item sold out! Use our search tool, chat online or call 1.877.948.2525 to find something equally desirable. Diagonal black and white stripes hug curves on a smooth, stretchy knit top softened with a draped neckline. 95% Rayon, 5% Spandex. Hand wash, cold; lay flat to dry. Imported. Contoured stretch fit. Diagonal stripes visually elongate. Hits at the lower hip. (25" from shoulder). Read More… Share on Facebook Tweet Pin


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phone view phone(973) 353-3113 Address 123 Washington Street
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Einhorn Harris is seeking a full time associate for its busy and growing prominent North Jersey Trust and Estate / Tax Practice. Candidate should have 3+ years experience. Experience in Elder Law ...
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A. Harrison Barnes is a well-known attorney throughout the United States. As a member of the Malibu community, Harrison is committed to serving the needs of Malibu residents and businesses in legal matters.


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Click for "Microbes After Hours" videos
Jane writes:
Dear Vincent,
Just a quick email to say how wonderful it was to meet you yesterday in Amsterdam! I have been an avid TWiV listener since my first "TWiV experience" in 2009 and look forward to many more podcasts.
If you recall, I mentioned to you a book I thought you and your readers might enjoy: Smoking Ears and Screaming Teeth, by Trevor Norton.
Prof Norton is Professor Emeritus at Liverpool University (UK), having retired in 2005 from the chair of Marine Biology. The book is described as "a hilarious celebration of the great eccentrics who have performed dangerous experiments on themselves for the benefit of humankind". I regard it as a witty and informative romp through the history of scientific discovery, and the self-experimentation practised by the bravest!
I hope you enjoy your upcoming visit to Dublin and congratulations on (yet another) award!
With warmest regards,
Jane, MD MPH
Mark writes:
re poultry staggerers:
Marek's disease would be worthy of consideration, but there are a number of other possible aetiologies (rye grass staggers, dietary deficiences).
Chris writes:
Hi Vince, Rich, Alan, and Dickson,
This is a long overdue e-mail to express my gratitude to you all. I am an Assistant Professor in Virology at UT Austin and have been hooked on your show since I became a new dad ~18 months ago (I'll get back to that later). I would like to briefly highlight some of the ways TWiV has helped me:
First, as an educator- I teach an upper level undergraduate course on Animal Virology. There is no doubt that I am a better teacher because of TWiV. My breadth of knowledge of virology is greatly expanded as a result of my weekly TWiV fix. As a result of this, the students think I am smarter than I actually am! Your show has inspired an ongoing experiment in my class where as a teaching tool, we incorporate a student-selected current event relevant to virology. Topics typically come from the lay press and are scientifically dissected at the beginning of every class. This appears to be a big hit with the students, especially those who came into the course as a forced requirement as part their degree plan. Rightfully so, nothing peaks a student's interest more than the relevance and timeliness of the topic. In addition, my students are offered as extra credit the option of summarizing an episode of TWiV. Typically, 60 of my ~90 students opt to participate in this exercise and their response has been very positive– several like it so much that they end up listening to many episodes.
Second, your show has helped me to be a better scientist. In addition to increasing my knowledge of tangential fields and new techniques, there have been several times where a new line of experimentation for my lab has emerged from TWiV. One example that comes to mind came from something Rich said (I believe) regarding consideration of temperature in experiments (I believe this was with regards to temperature sensitive mutants). This dialogue on your show made us consider the simple idea that temperature could account for the lack of an infectious tissue culture model for an upper respiratory virus that we are studying. We don't yet know if this is the answer to our problems as we are still waiting for the new cooler temperature incubator to arrive. Nonetheless, this is a reasonable hypothesis to test, and this entire line of experimentation was inspired by TWiV.
Also in regards to how your show helps scientists, I must mention the "TWiV bump". I believe that at least Alan is a Colbert Report fan based on his reference to "truthiness" on TWiV. As you may know, Stephen Colbert claims that artists who have their work mentioned on his show benefit in terms of recognition, sales, prestige, etc.– he refers to this as the "Colbert Bump". I think it is obvious that this is also true for scientists whose work is mentioned on TWiV. In TWiV 174 you profiled a paper from my lab. Mere hours after that episode was released I was contacted by two different colleagues offering me their congratulations (and envy). You should know that it is a career goal of many of us younger virologists to get the "TWiV Bump"!
Finally, it is also true that you make parenthood easier! When I was a brand new dad and got to spend hours and hours with my son Sam, TWiV served a valuable role. Sam and I would go on long walks and TWiV made the time fly by while appealing to my sense of productivity. So not only is your show helping research professors and high school students alike, arguably it serves a positive role for some infants too!
In summary, I am grateful to you all. Knowing first hand the demands on a faculty member's time (and imagining it's similar being a free lance writer/reporter), I don't know how you find the time to do this. It is a wonderful service to science and science education. As an NSF-funded researcher, I hope the NSF sees the value in what you are doing, and ends up supporting TWiV. I hope you keep up the TWiVing for a very long time!
Many thanks,
PS- We are trying to come up with a creative way to invite at least two of you to meet some of the faculty and do a show from here at UT Austin. As you know, there are several fans of TWiV here and Austin is a great city. I hope it all works out and that you will decide to come visit us.
Christopher S. Sullivan, Ph.D.
Assistant Professor
Dept. Molecular Genetics and Microbiology
The University of Texas at Austin
April writes:
Hi Vincent et al.,
Great show this week! On the note of coffee makers, this one beats them all for taste IMHO. Plus it's made in the Berkshires! Check out: http://www.chemexcoffeemaker.com/
Keep up the great work!! I really enjoy the podcast on my commute from the Berkshire to Albany.
April, Ph.D.
The David Axelrod Institute
Wadsworth Center for Laboratories and Research
Ayesha writes:
Dear TWIVlanders,
In trying to form an opinion on the subject, I'd love to hear what you have to say on the matter and why Elsevier are lobbying for this Bill. What will it mean? I'm a bit unclear.
Tessa writes:
Hello TWiV!
I'm rounding up my 4th year in my thesis lab and currently, the stacks of half-read/highlighted/triply-printed-papers are starting to take over all usable space on my desk. Help! I think the only way I can keep sane in graduate school is by keeping myself organized and regular doses of therapeutic humor from PhD Comics (www.phdcomics.com). Technology is getting so sophisticated. Do you know of an online service where a person can electronically accumulate and organize all of these pdfs, be able to search for key words, highlight, add notes, etc. and be accessible from any computer (lab or home)?
I'm super excited to attend a live recording of TWiV this summer at the ASV annual meeting hosted by the University of Wisconsin-Madison. Thanks to you guys I've proudly embraced my virology geekiness! Sharing the same sentiments as all your listeners, keep up the good work!
~Tessa, Ph.D. Candidate, Thomas Jefferson University, Philadelphia, PA
Kathryn writes:
Dear regular Twivsters and guests.
I listened to your last episode (#168) while chilling out in the hospital. What better place to learn about viruses.
I enjoyed the pick of Dr. Racaniello. I agree with the point of view of the teacher (as an ESL teacher myself). I can stand on my head and do back flips. The ones who want to be learning English do their homework and participate in class. The ones forced there do just the opposite or worse. They disrupt class or demand (not ask politely) to play games. Part of my teaching philosophy is to get the kids to learn without them knowing they were learning. I remember fondly watching Mr. Wizard's World growing up. I didn't realize how much I learned through that show and how it helped me through elementary school science.
Interestingly if you google the name of the blog post, you get an article about a South Korean (where I'm located) pilot project using robots to teach English. The picture shown is not a typical elementary class where there are 30-40 students. And the conclusions made at the end are a direct shot at the foreign teachers.
I should explain the educational philosophy of S. Korea. Kids go to public school in the morning (and then longer as they reach middle and high school) where they study basic subjects. English education starts in the 3rd grade. Many then go to private academies for lessons in specific subjects. Those third graders who have been studying English since approximately the age of 4 are light years ahead of their peers who didn't go to English preschools (there is no mandatory kindergarten). While a foreign teacher has some kids learning basic phonics she has others not paying attention because they're learning more grammar than I know. In fact the government is planning on phasing out native speaking teachers by 2015. They say the students are more comfortable learning from an English speaking Korean teacher. The fact is, they can get away with speaking Korean in that model, but not with a native English teacher.
I teach at one of the private schools where I have student from 6 to 14. At least they're roughly grouped by ability. I do not allow students to use their cell phone dictionaries or portable dictionaries in my class room. I find the students use it as a crutch and don't learn to use context clues to find meaning. I have my phone and if we, as a class, can't figure it out, then I'll look it up and read the Korean word.
Now for my virus question. I'm working back through the archives and just listened to the one on virus structure. Please correct my interpretation if if I get it wrong. We start out with the simplest form such as TMV where the virome (sp?) is simply wrapped in protein. This only works primarily in plants. When we get to non plant hosts you can have a similar structure inclosed in a lipid protein. Am I understanding that this comes from the host cell as the virus replicates and breaks out of the cell. Did I miss a specific word for getting out of the cell? On another level of complexity up is the envelope. And here there are two layers of lipids with protein in the middle. What is the advantage of that? Does it make the virus more resistant to the hosts' immune defenses? The most complex is the protein shell. Describing it as such makes me assume that it is more rigid. Why is icosohedreal (sp?) the only type of symmetry? Wouldn't a cube be as simple? 6 squares vs 20 triangles. Does what exists in nature give the most bang from the virus's buck, so to say? it's the most rigid with the least parts? Or is there some underlying factor in the tertiary or quantinary form of the proteins themselves?
I again want to thank you for addressing my opinions and well, basic questions. If TWIV had existed 20 years ago, I might be a virologist. I do hope some of my students go on to be scientists as they have said when we talk about jobs and what we want to be when we grow up. I wish I had an answer for that last question for myself.


text:
Sorry if its a silly question but im new to this and just want a bit of advice before i jump onto a course and regretting it. I've read that CELTA is the best option as its more recognised around the world but is there any difference whatsoever if i do a part time or full time course? apart from the length obviously.
Any replies would be much appreciated


text:
Try asking here: http://www.rugerforum.net/
I was able to pick-up a Ruger P90 for a real good price. I upgraded the stock grip with hogue grips. What upgrades to the trigger/hammer springs can or should be made? I think I will also change the sights out to a brighter set-up.
What is the pistol doing that is wrong, and that would require changing the trigger/hammer springs?
If it is used and has a high round count, then you might replace the recoil spring. Wolff springs have a great reputation, and they have a web site that makes it easy to order just about any spring you might need.
The only rounds through the gun has been what I shot in it the other day after getting it. I was just figuring with the price I got it for I could put any upgrades on it and still be okay with the wife. LOL
I'd suggest a good holster, a couple of spare mags, and a case of ammo. Perhaps a sight upgrade, but unless you want/need night-sights, the stock sights are better-than-average for non-critical uses.
I had a P-94 in .40 S&W and it was built like a tank, usual Ruger ruggedness. The sights were excellent out of the box and if you wanted to upgrade to night sights, that would be a personal choice. Get as many spare mags as you can for ease of range time. One thing I do prior to going to the range is load all my Beretta mags and bring the gun in empty as required. Saves significant time preparing to shoot. I have the weapon loaded for S.O. qualification when I go, but that is not to a public range. As suggested a good quality holster and mag pouch would be a good investment for the weapon, are you going to carry it CCW? Shoot often and become proficient with the P90 as you are able. Take some extra money and invest in quality instruction such as Front Sight or Gun Sight classes, great investment in your future as a shooter.
The P90 comes ready to use out of the Box. As for Customizing, its up to the Individual's likes. This one has had an Action Job by Teddy Jacobson, Engraved by Orval Mahan, Stainless Steel captured Recoil Spring and Buffer from Fire Dragon, and Stag Grips by Pat Grashorn.


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|General Technical Chat This section is for technical discussions relating to general maintenance, electrical issues, engine trouble, and recalls.
|Topic Review (Newest First)
OH, second thought. Use four or more nuts nearly all the way off the stud when loosening the window. Ford's sealant remains pliable forever, but some of the other window sealants available dry semi-hard and are suceptible to leak over time. If that window was ever replaced after the factory it is very likely that a different (cheaper) sealant was used. Over time, vibration loosened the seal, and you now have a slight leak that will only drip when water has sat on the leak area for some time. That's why you can't find it by soaking it with a hose. Use a lawn sprinkler and let it sit for an hour or so- you'll find your leak then if I'm right.
If that sealant was used, it will require MORE pressure to loosen, and could very likely pop off at once which might break the studs if you have only 2 nuts holding the window. It will also be more difficult to remove from the body of the car. You might need a razor paint scraper- just be careful not to scrape paint where it will be visible. I had one window like that on the Aerostar. Scrape off as much as you can- you probably won't be able to get all of it off. Chemicals that can remove the sealant, remove paint. You might want to get some primer or Rustoleum paint to cover deep scrapes- although excess sealant should do the trick.
Leaks are hard to trace- best of luck to you .
I'd start with the window on that side myself if there were not obvious tears in the hatch or door weatherstrip. There is a special type of sealant that's used for auto windows which you can only get from a specialized store. Most general auto parts stores will not have it. I'd contact Mike in the Hilbish Ford Forum to get the stuff that Ford uses. It will cost about $20 a tube. When I did the windows on my Aerostar I bought some stuff from an auto glass place locally- and it dried differently. The stuff that Ford uses will remain pliable for life.
To remove the window is easier than you think. Remove the interior trim and you will see nuts around the outside of the window frame. Remove those nuts except for a couple on one side which should be loosened as much as possible. Then push hard on the opposite side of the window. Heavy continuous pressure will loosen the window from the sealant- don't loosen it far enough so that the studs are outside the body of the car- the window might fall off when you remove the retaining nuts. You just need to loosen it enough to remove it from the outside. I would loosen it all the way around the window before removing the retaining nuts. Make sure the window is resting on the studs before you move to the outside to remove it. If you have help, then someone can hold the window on the outside. I never have help, so this is how to do it alone.
The sealant will still be sticky and rubbery. You must remove all the old sealant before using new sealant to seal the window. If found it was easy to ball up the old sealant and use it to stick to what was stuck on the window. The stuff Ford uses removes fairly easily. If it doesn't come off easily you can use a plastic putty knife to help loosen it.
Apply the new sealant liberally. One tube was enough to do more than one window on my Aerostar, so gob it on like crazy for a single Focus window. I'd use a bead about 3/8" wide on the car, then place the window over it. It might be prudent to apply some painter's tape to the outside edge of the window where excess sealant would be seen after the window is installed. The inside of the window trim should be curved to push excess sealant to the inside- sealant around the nuts on the inside is ok, the interior trim should cover it.
Wear laytex gloves while installing. This stuff doesn't clean up easily. I don't even know if the painters tape idea will help you if you get too much sealant under the window, but with painters tape and a plastic putty knife you should be able to trim the excess before it dries.
Let's hope you don't have to do the window fix. There is a trick for testing weatherstrip with chalk to be sure it is sealing completely that you might want to try. Home Depot or Lowes sells powdered chalk in a plastic tube for chalk lines that you can use to coat one side of the weatherstripping on a door, then close the door and see if the chalk is transferred uniformly to the other side.
I do think the window is it though since the door openings are designed to drain away from the inside of the car- door weatherstrip is usually only to blame for wind noise.
Mystery leak.
Does you Focus have a sun roof? Sometimes leaves or other debris can clogg interior channels that correctly drain water. Check for this or have a body shop check and clear.
Water Inside the car WTF!!
ok its been a while that i noticed that when i raind i could hear water inside my car..so tonight i took out the rear quarter panel and found some well alot of water...i left the rear quarter panel off and sprayed the outside with water and could not see anywater coming in...
from where could the water be coming in?
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|Topic Review (Newest First)
Curtis, Have you ever heard of a re-ring job? I realize that lots of people think that they are strictly for lunatics, but the fact is that they work. And guess what, there are real simple inexpensive ways to check things like the bores, crankshaft, you dont NEED to buy new pistons, you dont even NEED to have it ballanced because the factory ballance job is still intact. That CAN be done for basicaly the cost of a good core, a kit and some magnafluxing. But you CANNOT build a 383 from a 350 like that... It costs a LOT more!!
Even if you are going with new pistons, I can get 350 pistons for less than 383 pistons, and not all 350 cores have bad cranks or even cranks that need to be ground. By the way, I can get a 350 crank ground for $50.00, how much did you say you paid for your 383 crank???
Dont tell me that you can build a 383 for as little as a 350 because its BOSH!!
Here is the porting/cam I'm going with. Take a look at the 185cc porting. 260 cfms from 185cc is nothing to shake a stick at. And the $1800 price tag with a cam to go with it isn't too bad either.
dam thats good, but come on dude wheres the fun in stock haha
i would definitely have those heads worked on there going to need to do more machining for 2.02 valves and the spring seats to be able to except good after market parts.
and then after all that get a custom grind cam made with a full roller setup and YOU'LL BE VERY HAPPY WITH YOUR POWER!
|Yeah, I'm taking my time on my 383. I scored a brand new one-piece forged crank and H-beam rods for $350, I bought an LT1 block for $50. I got new, never-assembled LT1 aluminum heads for $279. So far I'm up to $680 in parts. I set aside $2500 to do a 450-hp build, so that leaves me buttloads of money for CNC porting, injectors, and pistons, but if I wanted to I could assemble it with stock parts right now and get 300+ from it for just shy of $1000 total investment.
yea you can really make a nice engine for cheap if you know how to look, start by buying a cheap engine off Craigslist, the three things you are looking for are better then stock heads, newer pistons for more comp. and as little miles as possible. then from there yuor at like $500-$1500, then you disassemble it to short bock and regasket it, and check some main bearings to see if you want to have new bearings and rings, you mine as well wile your there and buy new parts like all the pumps, and new valve tran and put it back together and you got a somewhat new block!
I built my 350 for about $1500
$750 - full 350 I pulled from car not running well, but had like 30,xxx miles and 9.7to1comp it had Bowtie Phase II heads and roller rockers! thats really why I wanted it
then E-bay new oil pump, aluminum water pump, wire loom and wires, shift kit vacuum canister, valve covers. and $100 for new TCI tourq converter off craiglsit
then I changed the cam bears and bought a custom ground Crower cam and lifters which was the most expensive but yu can never have to good of a cam lol
I actually already bought and engine off Craigslist with like 10,xxx miles running great and I pulled it out of a truck and painted it and it was done but I had to sell it when I found this engine
so now I'm ready to drop it in and on my DD2000 it says its
so if you know how to shop around you can always get what your looking for
$$$ ???
I'd grab a pull out useable factory 350 Vortec roller engine that doesn't need rebuilding or pistons,
bowl port it,
cam it,
carb it,
and make 400+ hp
and stick it in
with a stick shift 4-5 speed. (that's what you want)
It ought to do OK in a 2700 pound fun car.
Build what you like and have fun with it
If ya smoke it, go get another $400 salvage engine and go again.
I think Popular HotRodding magazine did a buildup about 2 years ago called, Budget Sledgehammer, or Sledgehammer, and got 447 hp. Check the web sites.
If you have an extra $ 3-10,000 to spend, see previous posts.
I just bought a running driving stock engine from a pickup that is running 9.40 eighths at 90*, for $ 500 complete fuel injection etc. He is going LS series. Guess what I am going to do.
Take a look here:
In fact, when I was doing my last 350, I actually found a couple places that ONLY made 383s. Since they were the same price they had so few people asking for 350s that they just built 383s. They could still build you a 350, but they didn't keep eny in stock.
Man, I love those old Chevy II's!! I agree with 75GMCK.. The most cost effective package would be a turbo 350 tranny behind a 350.
I am going with a THM 350 in my Chevelle in place of the powerglide. It has the same 1st gear ratio as a muncie. They would be better around town for MPG than a powerglide and much easier to do a burnout with.
Im building a 327 from a 350 core to go in my 65. I highly reccomend David Vizzards books. You can make up the cost easily.
I strongly disagree with the statement that a 383 costs the same as a 350. Not too many scat cranks in junkyards. Lots of machine work inherint in a 383 project and a 350 can be reworked pretty cheap. 383's are nice, but not cheap.. If I wanted a motor for pure power I would just find a good 2 bolt main 400 and go from there.
From a cost standpoint though the 350 is by far the best..
Oh! and a THM 350 will bolt right up in place of the powerglide. You just need to fiddle with the linkage to get it to work. I think I will go with a floor shifter.
|I like the 383 and with a properly built powerglide it will be a great weekend warrior.JMO.
I think you first have to decide on a rough budget, and then decide how wild you are willing to put up with as a weekend driver.
For a relatively cheap, simple, reliable combo I would probably go with a high revving 327 or 350 (use good rotating parts & a strong cam) that runs in the 350 horsepower range, TH350 with a high stall converter, about 4.10 gears with posi, and the widest tires you can fit on the back. This combination should be relatively cheap (uses readily available parts), and give good performance in a '64 Nova. If built with good quality parts, this combo should also hold up to a lot of abuse.
You could also use a 4 speed, but the conversion from your Powerglide will require more parts and more time. A TH350 swap should be much easier. For real punch, you could add NOS, but I'm not really a fan of that idea.
There are many other SBC combos that would work (383 strokers, etc). and if you have a lot of patience you could run a BBC. However, most of them are more involved to build and will cost more money. How much pain (money) can you put up with?
A BB in a old Chevy 2 is a lot of work. I had an LS6 in a 66 nova. You have to cut the fender wells out to clear the exhaust, then you have to reinforce what you cut out to keep the car from falling apart. The stock front springs won't work, the BB is much heavier. I had the some big slicks on the back and it twisted the body so bad it was hard to shut the doors. I ended up with frame connectors and a cage to stiffen the car.
Go with a small block it bolts right in.
|I agree, I've dealt with Competition Products for the last 12yrs or so, very good parts, prices & service. Also Dyno-Flow & Flatlander Racing. Flatlander had King Demon RS carbs so cheap Summit wouldn't match the price when I bought mine. Doug Herbert used to give 5% discount if you payed by Check or MoneyOrder, not sure if they still do that. Most all the big parts houses have the meet or beat price guarantee. Dirt Track Thunder & Racers Outlet usually have very good prices on internal parts too. Only bad parts I've ever got from CP were Eagle Rods which I no longer will use anyway. They're known for egg shaped journal ends.
I am not sure about that "best price gauruntee" thing but I have always found great deals through Competition Products. They only deal in engine stuff and they offer everything from cheap "claimer" assemblies to full blown race units with 5000 dollar short blocks.
They would definately have something to fit your budget and application.
For durability I would go with a Big Block. Even the stock 2 bolt blocks with cast cranks were good to 600HP and 7000 rpm so they can really take a pounding.
Since money is an issue I would think about doing a 383 stroker, there are many parts on the market out there. You can develop 500 HP without breaking a sweat and in a light car like that it will haul. As far as components l would spend the extra money and go with a forged rotating assembly for durability. Cams go with a solid roller such as bullet or crower. If you do not use these manufacturers make sure it is a billet cam since some use a cast core, ask for an ever where gear so you do not have to use a bronze distributer gear. Carb could be a basic holley or eldebrock. Intake manifolds and heads there are so many good affordable products on the market. I could go on for ever, but shop around. I just built a 383 stroker and saved almost $700.00 in parts by shopping around even though I bought almost everything through summit. Summit has a beat a price a guarantee and the fact they are a very reputable company.
As far as powerglide it is a very consistent tranny, but for my personal preference I like a 4 speed. That is what i run, it is so violent that it is great.
Let us know what you end up going with.
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Not MS points. lol
Not MS points. lol
I knew you were ace-k. why the name change?
to anyone who's interrested but haven't yet joined the toy forum round robin tourney, the deadline for signup is drawing near... make haste.
go to http://www.bombingscience.com/graffi...Turney./page29
Anybody wanna give me a discount code for Karmaloop? I remember seeing one in someones sig but can't find it.
wtf is karmaloop
I thought I'd be nice and get a fellow BSer's to use (;
lol they need to have a lmgitfy. Would be waaaaay cooler
Last edited by ribcage; 08-07-2011 at 04:43 PM.
You ever just not feel the drive to go paint? im in a bit of a slump right now where i just dont even want to go paint.
^yep, comes and goes... but that happens with almost anything for me
Hey, Im new here , any tips and tricks for around this forum , like rules ?
Anwayzz Hope to get some good pieces going soon.
- KrazyGraff
YOU COULD PROBABLY CHECK THE THREAD TlTLED "TOY FORUM RULES"
momma on the phone askin if im still trappin
Last edited by nah!; 08-08-2011 at 12:17 PM.
why football
cause football/soccer is a beautiful game.
fukkk that
the real shit is right here\/
Rufus has become a born again christian, and isn't homeless any more
momma on the phone askin if im still trappin
lol I seen way crackheads waaaaaaaay cooler then rufus... met this ***** on the street the otherday who dressed his chuhuahua up as batman, then had a toy gun pointed to his head and said "If you dont give me any fuckin change batman gets it!" I called his bluff and he pulled the trigger but that shit was plastic. I asked him why he had no teeth and he said he traded em to the tooth fairy for crack... then the light turned green and I crossed the street


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a place for zinesters - writers and readers
Views: 1
Woah, had never heard of it (do I live with my head in the sand??) Thanks for the tip off, I shall be checking it out; though it looks a bit harder to navigate than etsy, plus lacks an easily searchable 'books and zines' section from first glance. i shall investigate more! xox


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sorry I posted to the wrong section
I Came across this pistol. FN 1906.
Well the pistol looks in overall good conditions but the barrel looks really matt and it is not mirror looking anymore.
The gunsmith told me that it is normal for this kind of pistol because it is really old,
but he also told me the pistol works flawlessy and that the barrel used condition is not an issue...
that barrel is not damaged, it is just matt...
any experience of you with this gun ?
which are the common problems one can meet with this small pistol if any ?
thank you


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** How to put on a corset by yourself?1. Loosen the laces so that you can put it on comfortably.2. Carefully line up the two sides of your busk on the front of the corset. Line up the pins and the holes and clip the busk together.3. Tighten the lacing. Starting from the top. Next, go to the bottom of the lacing and pull the laces tighter there. Then working the bottom half of the lacing tighter.4. Tie off the loose lacing on the back of your corset.
If you want to:
6,000 + (and growing) factories in our existing network are eager to make it for you.
When it comes to selling in stock products, we are no difference from many other Internet retailers, but we take pride in going extra miles to do something special for you: Have some products custom made for you.
We cannot do everything, but we usually can accommodate a certain changes in product options such as color, size, material, or minor design twist. We primarily work with vendors or factories, not individual artist or craftsman. For custom made products, we usually only cater to bulk size order that meets the minimum quantity requirement of a single factory run. Don't be shy. Ask. What we can accomplish may surprise you!
Read this first: Copyrights & Trademarks


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I sure hope I can fit all this in my car. Gotta drive about 400 miles in my little ford focus to my parent's for christmas.
Got alot of work ahead of me though, but put this on myself.
My parents are going to think I'm nuts. 3 Jango helmets, 2 of which I will be working on, TheDentedOne and RevolverOcelot's helmets, going to ship SoulAssassin's finished helmet down there.
Also got a whole box of scout armor I'm trimming for a local, gotta finnish the scout helmet, and also repair her Jawa "eyes." Was luckily able to fit all the tools and paints, etc. in one box..so I got alot of work to do in 2 weeks
So what's everyone else got on their list for winter break?
(Who now needs to actually pack clothes and find a place to fit it...it's what all those years of playing tetris were for...)


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Junior Season (2007-08)
Had one of the best seasons ever by a UAB men's basketball player ... broke single-season school records of points (695), threes made (142) and threes attempted (355) ... his marks from beyond the arc also set the single-season records for Conference USA and placed him second and fifth in the nation in three-pointers made and attempted, respectively ... selected NABC and USBWA First Team All-District, becoming the first UAB player since 1991 to earn such honors (Andy Kennedy earned accolades in 1990 and `91) ... was also named the Conference USA Newcomer of the Year and was a C-USA First-Team honoree ... finished the year ranked among the top-10 single-season school records in points per game average (21.1, T2nd), field goals made (220, 8th), field goals attempted (539. 4th), free throw percentage (86.3, 4th) and minutes played (1,170, 4th) ... reached the 20-point plateau in 17 contests during season, which tied a school record ... also recorded four 30-point performances, one off the school record ... tabbed league Player of the Week for the week of March 3, which he averaged 35.5 points and 5.0 rebounds per game in wins over UTEP and Tulane ... scored a career-high 41 points in win over UTEP on Feb. 27, which set a school record for points in a road game and tied the school record for points in a game ... he also set the school mark for threes in a game with nine against the Miners ... followed that performance with 30 points in the win over Tulane (3/1) ... also earned the C-USA Player of the Week honor after scoring a then-career-high 33 points, 28 of which came in the second half, en route to a 79-76 win over Kentucky (12/15) ... connected on 10-of-18 field goals and 7-of-11 threes in the win over the Wildcats ... tied career-high with 33 points and added five rebounds in win over Southern Miss (1/16) ... accounted for 27 points in victory over Old Dominion (12/29) ... had 27 points and five boards in one-point loss to then-No. 1 Memphis (2/16) ... collected 26 points and tied a school record with eight threes made in win at Georgia State (11/10) ... collected 26 points in 43 minutes of action at Southern Miss (2/5) ... scored 25 points on the strength of seven three-pointers in the win over Alabama State (1/2) ... accounted for 25 points on 9-of-18 shooting from the floor and 7-of-13 from beyond the arc in win over Jacksonville (11/24) ... had 24 points on 8-of-17 shooting from beyond the arc in the win over SMU (2/23) ... collected 23 points at Marshall (1/19) ... scored double figures in all but one game during season.
Indiana (2004-06)
Emerged as one of the top players in the Big Ten during his two seasons at Indiana under head coach Mike Davis ... his versatility enabled him to lead the Hoosiers in assists (109) and steals (38), while also ranking second on the squad in scoring (13.5 ppg) and rebounding (5.5 rpg) during the 2005-06 campaign ... started every game for IU during his two seasons, running his consecutive start streak to 60 games, the most by an IU player since Jared Jeffries started 70 consecutive games from 2001-2003 .. named All-Big Ten honorable mention by both the media and league head coaches in 2006 and to the Big Ten All-Freshman Team in 2005 ... hit 12 straight three-pointers during a three-game stretch against Butler (4-of-4), Ball State (6-of-6) and Michigan (hit first two attempts), which fell only three short of the NCAA Division I record of 15 ... hit a school record-tying eight three-point field goals on his way to a career-high 26 points against Iowa ... recorded three double-doubles during the campaign ... earned his first Big Ten Player of the Week honor on Jan. 2 with a terrific performance at Ball State in which he set a school record going a perfect 6-of-6 from three-point range ... finished with a team-high 18 points and three assists in 36 minutes in the NCAA Tournament first-round win over San Diego State ... finished freshman campaign as both the team's third-leading scorer (10.2) and rebounder (4.3) ... also led IU in free throw percentage (.803) and total minutes (980) as a freshman.
High School
Averaged 26 points and eight rebounds per game at Bridgton (Maine) Academy in 2003-04 to lead team to 27-7 mark and a semifinal appearance in the New England Class A Prep School Tournament ... rated No. 47 in the final Insiders.com Top 100 ... came off the bench to score 21 points on 6-of-8 from the floor and hitting all three of his three-pointers in the 2004 Jordan Capital Classic on April 17 ... as a junior at Indianapolis Pike High School, averaged 13.5 points, 5.9 rebounds and 2.9 assists per game to lead the team to a 29-0 record, the Indiana Class 4A title and a No. 2 ranking in the final USA Today national prep poll ... rated eighth among small forwards and 44th overall by Rivals.com ... was named the Indianapolis Star Marion County Player of the Year.
Full name is Robert Anthony Vaden ... born March 3, 1985 ... parents are Cathy Vaden and the late Robert Head ... academic major is philosophy ... has one sister, Tina Fields, and one brother, Tyrone Fields.


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Windows 8 licensing: Your old license is obsolete, and so is your old BYOD policy
With the debut of Windows 8, Microsoft is also unveiling a new licensing model that has significant impact on companies that are using desktop virtualization and, specifically, have BYOD policies. With this post, I'm going to explain what these changes are and then we'll make some recommendations for how your BYOD policies needs to be updated to align with the new licensing. First, let's look at the changes.
Traditionally, Windows desktop licensing has always been an OEM license that came with the option of upgrading and adding software assurance via volume licensing. That was meant to cover basically any device that was connecting to a virtualized desktop installed on a server. With Windows 8, Microsoft is making it very important that you are the primary user of the primary licensed device in your environment.
Now, you not only get the virtual desktop access rights that you've always gotten (four virtual machines per licensed device), but it also comes with Windows To Go rights — meaning you can sideload a full Windows 8 OS onto a thumb drive for remote usage. Take that, Linux fans! Continue Reading…


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Hey guys,
Newbie here. My Name is Nick and i'm from Adelaide, Australia (it's awesome to see so many aussies on here btw). I've loved star wars generally and Boba specifically since i was a little kid. I've been lurking around here for a few months now as i've decided to put together a Boba costume. I figured the best place to start was the lid because if i can do that then i can probably do the rest.
I've got an awesome CC from ASOK and have embarked on an ESB paint-up (it seems to be easier for a first timer). The right ear has been attached with REE magnets and the visor after a bit of a nightmare few days has been installed with chicago screws and rubber washers. I left off the screws on the end because the natural curvature of the visor seems to push hard enough to keep it in place. I am however leaving my options open to scrapping it and starting again at a later date.
I'll be uploading images to Fett costume - Imgur as i go along.
I've purchased an airbrush and am going to attempt a layered paintup using Rafal's stencils and TF's humbrol list. The only change will be i'm going to use the CC as the silver and put down a coat of matt cote before liquid masking the first layer. I'm Planning on starting on the back panels this weekend. I'm also wondering if anybody has scaled the templates for ASOK's CC and knows what percentage to print them at.


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Lockport-based Bollinger Shipyards has announced the appointment of a new president and chief operating officer.
Lockport-based Bollinger Shipyards has announced the appointment of a new president and chief operating officer.
Longtime Chairman and CEO Donald "Boysie" Bollinger on Thursday announced the appointments of Chris Bollinger as president and Ben Bordelon as chief operating officer.
"I am pleased to take on my new role as president of Bollinger Shipyards, carrying on the traditions and culture set forth by my father and grandfather," Chris Bollinger said.
Chris Bollinger has been with the company since 1993, most recently serving as the company's executive vice president of new construction. He will continue to serve on the company's board of directors.
"Chris will be responsible for implementing the company's vision through the management of all operational and administrative functions of the business. His total commitment to safety, attention to quality, focus on environmental responsibility and steadfast dedication to the highest ethical standards is what sets us apart from all others," said Boysie Bollinger, whose role with the company remains unchanged.
Announcing Bordelon's appointment, Boysie Bollinger said he is a strong leader with more than 14 years of experience in the shipyard industry.
"Today marks the beginning of the third generation of the Bollinger family to assume the leadership of the company. My grandfather started the shipyard in 1946 and set a foundation for us to grow into what we are today," Bordelon said.
Bordelon has been with the company since 1999, most recently serving as the company's executive vice president of the repair operations. As COO, he will be responsible for all of the company's repair and new construction operations and continue to serve on the company's board.
Bollinger has distinguished itself as a leader in building Coast Guard vessels, delivering the 154-foot Charles David Jr. about two weeks ago.
The company has 10 shipyards between New Orleans and Houston and boasts the largest vessel repair operation in the region with 28 dry-docks in Louisiana and Texas. Bollinger employs more than 2,500 workers across its operations. Employment numbers for the Lockport facilities were not available.
The company, one of the Houma-Thibodaux area's largest employers, is seeking to add to its workforce.
"We are looking to hire," said Robert Socha, Bollinger's executive vice president of sales and marketing. "We have want ads out all over the place."


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AMES, Iowa — This month's Iowa Learning Farms webinar, will be Wednesday, May 21 at 11:30 a.m. The webinar is part of a free series, hosted by ILF, through Adobe Connect.
Christopher Anderson, assistant director of the Climate Science Program at Iowa State University, is the May presenter. He will discuss the increasing Iowa rainfall amounts and implications this has on the agricultural industry.
The Climate Science Program, headed up by Eugene Takle, explores the discipline of meteorology, but emphasizes climate as opposed to weather. Climate science is the study of aggregate weather events over certain time periods, whereas meteorology is the study of individual events. The Climate Science Program works with regional climate change data and then transforms it into information that decision-makers can use. Decision-makers include people working with U.S. Geological Survey, National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, the Army Corp of Engineers — virtually anyone dealing with soil and water and affected by climate.
To connect to the webinar, go to https://connect.extension.iastate.edu/ilf/ at 11:30 a.m. on the morning of the webinar and log in using the guest option. A computer with Internet access is all that is needed to participate.
The ILF website contains links for archived webinars from all previous sessions at http://www.extension.iastate.edu/ilf/Webinars/. The webinar archives also are available in podcast through iTunes.
Christopher Anderson, ISU Agronomy Department, 515-294-9948


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Summer Public Ice Skating Is Back For July!
Tickets On Sale Monday, June 10th
Lakeland, FL – Beat the summer heat with ice cold family fun as Public Ice Skating returns to The Lakeland Center with multiple sessions July 2ndthrough July 13th. Tickets go on sale Monday, June 10th at 9:30am and can be purchased for $7 adult, $6 children ages 2-12 and $5 for skaters with their own skates. Tickets are available at The Lakeland Center Box Office, by calling 863-834-8111, online at thelakelandcenter.com or by calling the 24-hour ticketing line 888-397-0100. Group discounts and birthday party packages are available and can be purchased by calling 863-834-8137.
2013 Summer Public Ice Skating Schedule
July 2nd -3rd
10am-12pm, 2pm-4pm, 6pm-8pm, 9pm-11pm
July 4th
10am-12pm, 2pm-4pm
July 5th – 6th
10am-12pm, 2pm-4pm, 6pm-8pm, 9pm-11pm
July 7th
2pm-4pm, 6pm-8pm, 9pm-11pm
July 8th -12th
10am-12pm, 2pm-4pm, 6pm-8pm, 9pm-11pm
July 13th
10am-12pm, 2pm-4pm, 6pm-8pm
The Lakeland Center is conveniently located minutes between Orlando and Tampa in Lakeland, Florida off I-4 on Lime Street; The Lakeland Center is a short drive from anywhere in Central Florida. Regular box office hours are Monday-Friday 9:30am-5:30pm. For ticket information, call the Box Office at (863) 834-8111 or visit our website at www.thelakelandcenter.com. Tickets can be purchased 24 hours a day, seven days a week through www.thelakelandcenter.com or by calling 888-397-0100.


text: Lace Luxury Renee Top Style: 570068291 Out of Stock Love it? Everyone else did too. This item sold out! Use our search tool, chat online or call 1.888.855.4986 to find something equally desirable. Add some elegance to an edgy look with a top touched with lace embroidery and seed-bead embellishments. Split hem. Length: 28" to 29". 100% polyester. Machine wash. Imported. Read More… Share on Facebook Tweet Pin


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Weekly Beauty Challenge: Color Vision
For this week's Beauty Challenge, stand out in spring color with bold effects for eyes, lips, cheeks, and nails in Lucid Lilac, Infrared Rouge, and Majestic Cobalt.
Recreate the looks below (learn HOW TO) or create your own COLOR VISION inspired look using whatever products you'd like. Try cobalt nails, rouge cheeks, or lilac lips. Go bold or keep it subtle; you really can't go wrong with this one, ladies!
Show & Tell your looks in the comments!
Shop Color vision> http://seph.me/14SadT1
Some of my past looks, from left to right, first I decided to go super decked out in color to match the pastel, rainbow backing of my leopard tube top. Polished off the look with a bold magenta lip! Second look, I played a lot with various shades of purple and kept a neutral lip. Third....well, I figured I couldn't go more blue than my beloved boyfriend! Last year we attended a comic convention and he cosplayed Jake Sully as a Na'Vi from Avatar. The body painting (airbrushed) was completed by me in about 6 1/2 hours; prothetics (brow ridge and ears) and hair installation took about 1 1/2 hours (including make up for the face alone and adding details like the white speckles on his body which were hand painted). He even had his finger and toe nails painted with Butter London's Slapper to match! The whole costume, minus the knife he wore on his chest was hand made (including arrows) and he used an actual long bow with a 50 pound + pull on it!
@lylysa! I'm like, straight up speechless! You're so talented! And now you officially have no excuse not to post pics for beauty challenges. Your secret is out.
@ Candace, *gasp* ME?!?!?! My secret???? *looks around*
Thank you for the kind words! I've been sporting bolder lips this month (getting back in the groove of bright red, deep brick, bold magenta, and neon pink) just because it's so easy to jazz up a look, even if clothes are kept casual.
The Na'Vi project was quite an ordeal! He was a great hit at the convention though, photo op after photo op, he even got interviewed by local news stations covering the event! The cutest was when a little girl (who looked spot on like Dora the Explorer, but was not in costume to be her) went up to him and motioned for him to kneel (the girl was tiny and my bf is 6'5) and whispered, "I saw you on tv and in the movie!!" because aparently Avatar was playing a couple of nights before the con. He whispered back "Shhhh, you can't tell anyone I left, okay? It's our secret!" and she nodded. Her last statement "If you see Darth Vader....kill him!" My god, she was adorable!
I'm obsessed with this Dior polish in Lilac that is being featured on the Sephora site and in stores, I had to get it
@jessicarwabbit- I love that color and was rocking it last week. I think it mght be my HG lilac!
I'm currently sans makeup (I know, I know how un-Sephora of me) working from home, but I think I'm going to give an electric blue/purple look a try tomorrow. I'll be sure to take a picture.
@jessicawabbit - yay! I love that Lilac, it's perfect. It's also here, in case anyone is wondering. #cantstopmyself
Dior Colorvision (yes, created just for us!) Vernis Nail Lacquer> http://seph.me/10BKjim
@Janine - DO IT.
@ Lylysa, can I hire you for my wedding makeup in a few years? lol Also your boyfriend's cosplay is amazing!
Hahaha, totally, Moregun!
It'll be like a mini Beauty Talk party we can have!
Thanks for the compliment, he put in so much work and effort into piecing together his outfit, from hand beading his jewelry, to even speckling them to give them an aged look, even dying yarn for his leg bands with tea! He went all out!
The best thing is, he kept the Butter London toe nail polish on and didn't even bother to remove it! Hahaha! I <3 him!
lol, that is awesome, and if he were about 4 ft taller (impossible without stilts, hich would make it look weird) it would be a flawless execution, I love seeing all the work people put into costumes for cons ^.^
Main reason I ask is it looks like you're extremely good with eyeshadow, whereas, I'm not, plus the body painting is a plus, I was thinking about maybe having some "red" Martian tattoos being painted on for the ceremony as well, or they could be Lost Tribe of the Sith, I just enjoy the ceremony of it all and the symbolism
OOOOooOoOoOO, heck, if I can't do your make up, I just want to attend! Sounds like you're a gal who knows how to do a party up!
He was considering the Na'Vi cosplay for a while, and we finally decided to go through with it about 2 1/2 weeks before the con! Hahah! For as little as the costume is (accessories and loin cloth), it did take some time and we did run through a couple of body paint/make up tests. There was blue mist everrrrrrrrrrrrywhere in my apartment!!!! At least it was easy to clean and didn't stain (minus the towels to wipe up)!
And in regards to the shadows, it comes from painting/coloring my whole life. I love drawing and art since I was young enough to remember, so eye shadows are like paint for my lids. If I don't have a time limit, I'll get crazy and incorporate up to 12 shadows for one look, but just work to get everything seamlessly blended and smooth looking!
I combined two of them!
Cobalt blue shirt with Julep Lauren nails.
ok so obviously no one's willing to post photos of themselves, having been completely intimidated by lylysa's amazing skillz and her awesome gorgeousness. so i'll volunteer. i was playing around with blues the other days and pulled out this old UD eyeshadow pencil I'd forgotten about. fun! I added a light blue shadow on the bottom inner lashline. then I couldn't decide which color would look best on the bottom outer lashline so I just gave up.
yes, i intentionally cropped out my sloppy brows.
@lylysa -- i agree, after the last few days' of posts MoreGun is sounding more and more like some crazy wilde childe! hehe. did you see what she said about doing her nails all pointy and silver with red tips?!?!?! and leaving some poor dude with a scar!?? we love ya Morgs! but sometimes you scares us! LOL!
Ha, I think everyone have a wild side to them. =P
@Drrragon. Ohh, I totally thought you have a darker skintone from your free shadow swatch. o.O
I did a quick try before washing my face. The blue/purple eye was easy tho the contrast didn't show up well on phone camera, but I was being adventurous and want to use red on the eye, like Geisha style....don't think it works unless you got paper white foundation =/.
I like the fact I won't see my eyes staring back at me in the front page, but I also have no idea how large/tiny the pic is going to be due to the comment style. o.O
@ Starletta, I love the combo of the two colors, extra bold pops of color!
@ Drrragon, gawsshhhh, you're so sweet! I love that soft blue lining your eyes, it really brings an openess to them (I love blue with brown eyes)!
@ Beautytester, I'm really liking the red, and yes, it is very Geisha style! Did you use any highlighter? The red really makes the rest of your lid look super smooth and pearl like!
@ Jessicarwabbit, lilac is easily becoming a favorite nail shade of mine, that one is so delicate and pretty!
@lylysa, no, I just put some Benefit foundation in a slightly lighter shade on the lid (UD Naked works better cuz it's more lightweight and doesn't feel as greasy...but I got no more samples of UD Naked). The dab of red was Tarte lipSurgence in Fiery (need some fiddling with shape, couldn't get over the accidentally-smeared-lipstick on eye feel...I think it would look better if I used some white eyeshadow for contrast).
ps. Love Tarte aquagel eyeliner, I did those black liner there in 2-3 swipes with no clean up needed!
Yay to people posting pics! I'm rocking a cobalt blue nail today, so I will post one later.
@starletta - that julep is so pretty! It's a great contrast w/ the colbalt.
@drrragon - I love your blue!
@beautytester - that's what I call stepping out in spring color! I love that bold magenta eye, girl. I think you can rock it.
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|Topic Review (Newest First)
Try wiping the base off with rubbing alcohol on a rag before advancing to lacquer thinner. If you didn't activate the Chromabase and just reduced it, this ought to work. If what I think I read is correct, you'll have to step up to lacquer thinner but try rubbing alcohol first since it is way less aggressive and cheaper. The alcohol(like you can buy in any pharmacy off the shelf) will remove uncatalyzed base and clear, I just learned that trick due to an airbrush artist friend of mine having a learning experience on my son's hood. Talk to the store mangler at Slo Reilly and ask him if there's anything he can do for you, they'll usually jump through hoops to please you if you're a regular customer and courteous. Our local Slo'Reilly mixes nason, Chromabase and Spies-Hecker. Chromabase is a premium base and in 20 years of spraying as a hobbyist, I've not had bad luck with it. As for sanding, wet sand it to no finer than 600 grit so the new base has something to bite to.
Good luck,
I'm very surprised to hear they mix the paint at the store...
Lizer thats a good question. I think it has something to do with the fact I'm ate up with the dumb a.. The little light bulb did come on and I thought for a moment this didnt look right at all. I guess I talked myself into it because I ran it through a filter. I did not inspect the chunks close enough to realize they where granulated chuncks stuck together. I have no experience with this stuff. Hell I never used bondo before this learning experience. I must say damn that **** dries in a hurry. I spent about a month reading as much as i could. You cant beat good old experience. Maybe in my case just good old common sense(which ever way you want to look at it). I'm pretty bumbed about it but I dont see it as a total loss now. I have learned some very good knowledge and I feel like i could do some grade A body work/ paint job on the next one.
I'm going to give some of the advice i recieved a try and chalk this up as a learning experience.
That's kind of a serious boo-boo on O'reilly's part. They messed up your entire paint job. You can bet I'd be taking this higher up the food chain to get some more kick back for my pains.
The question remains...when you saw all the gray crap and chunks, why did you still spray?
Thanks dead for the advice. I'm going to give lacquer thinner a try. I guess I should wipe way base and wetsand 500 grit reshoot base and clear? Will I have to put more primer on. Thanks again guys have a very helpful community
sorry for spelling and grammer doing this on a phone
You HAVE to use the basemaker.bring your paint down to the store and have them reduce it with a little basemaker (no activetor) and see if it does the same thing...what your reducing it with is for acrilic enamel single stage (if I remember the numbers correctly)..
The only problem with sanding the base off is it clogs the paper too fast..it can be done if you slow the DA down as slow as it can go but its slow and expensive.thinner works like a charm (I've screwd up a few too)..When doing the plastic be quick about it and dont leave the thinner soaked rag on the plastic parts. It shouldnt be any problem getting it off plastic as long as you used a 2K primer.These guys at O'rielys dont know jack about paint,They can bairly order the right parts for your car....I knew they had Nason but its just factory packs here and they dont mix anything themselves.Our store dosent sell Chroma base...I went there one time on a sunday for an emergancy job and got so frustrated with the guy ,i never went back..
|well I went to O'riellys. I had them take a look at the filters and they didnt seem to have a clue what it was. Then they went to go shoot me some more paint and noticed some grey crap in their yellow dispenser. They cleaned it out and the new paint filtered with nothing in it. I dont have the time or money to start over and some of the plastic pieces will not survive harsh strippers. Guess I can help put an end to the debate about sanding chromabase. I just hope this experiment does not prove there will be adhesion problems. What grit should i wet sand? Was thinking of using 800. Would that be best to get the debris out? Going to sand as light as i can to remove debris but not sand it flat. Then im going to shoot another base coat and clear.
|Thank you so much for the reply's freaking out over here. Mitmaks I read the tech sheets and was wondering the same thing. It says to use basemaker and an activator. I went back in to double make sure there was not a screw up and they said I was good to go to mix chromabase 7785s activator reducer in a 1:1 ratio. I just figured he was saving me some money. Even if that was bad info this grey stuff was in the base color before I mixed anything. I even filtered the activator reducer seperatly and nothing was in the filter from that stuff. BarryK I am not blaming dupont for this I realize that the chances of just my paint coming from the plant is slim. If they made a bad batch there would be a crap ton of complaints I could find online. As far as this stuff getting pass a 25 micron filter I dont know. Its extremly fine but its stuck together in chunks. I dont have the tech knowledge of what an amine and iso is so if you could explain further that would be great. This stuff was in the can and i have no idea how it could have ever gotten in there. It was in there before I ever opened the can. I figure it was something mixed incorrect at orielly's since this is not a color straight off the shelf. Dead can i use lacquer thinner to remove this stuff on plastic? Tim thanks for your response I wish I could just sand this down but chromabase will have some serious problems if I do from what I have read. Thank you guys so much for taking the time to respond I really do appreciate it.
gunk paint.
you are painting plastic parts. some of the thinners-solvents are not compatable with certain plastics. the last car I painted was 15 years ago , I got the color free. My son was taking an auto painting class at the college and the fire dept did an inspection of an auto body shop in town and they had way too much materials not stored in fire rated cabinets. The shop had 24 hour correction notice so the owner loaded up his truck and took it to the class and everybody got to pick out what they wanted. Junior picked out 2 colors of the same mfg and type of paint. I went to the auto body-paint supplier in town with the cans and still spent $ 300 for the correct primers for metal, plastic and aluminum trim, reducers. etc. 40 + years ago I spent all summer getting my car ready for paint, I had 2 days before having to go off to college, I rented a compressor and gun. My sister had a brand new house and she let me use her garage. It was over 100 degrees and when I mixed the reducer and tried to spray I blew cobwebs out of the gun. ai panicked and asked a couple guys that I knew and they said wait until it gets below 80 * but no time. so I thinned and thinned and thinned but the acrylic laquer still came out very dry. I went ahead and sprayed it on anyway. It looked like tinted primer, very dry finish. after a couple months to cure I thought i would start to sand it down and recoat. I was using 400 wet paper and the finish looked excellet wet. the surface was smooth as glass . I rubbed out a spot and it looked like clear glass over fine sand . I finished sanding and hand rubbed it out and everyone asked how I got the custom finish.
|Chroma base has to be reduced with their own " Base maker" ONLY...Thats your whole problem...(I've done it) What you painted has to come off so I hope you used a 2 K primer because washing the base off is easiest and fastest with lacquer thinner and if you used a" lacquer" primer that'll come off too.
Not knowing what you are doing, I don't understand how you can trash Dupont as having sent you some trash????
I can tell you this from looking at the picture, Dupont could not have sent you anything that looks like the mess you HAVE as it would have never made it through the filling machines or the 10-25 micron bag filter they may use.
What caused this is plain as day, two very incompatible items were mixed together.
Looks like an amine and an ISO got mixed.
Or primer was drying in a cup for a few hours and then base was mixed in same cup.
Strip it buy more and read the directions before you use the stuff, not after you have a problem.
|You're going have to redo this, resand all the parts that got ruined and start over. Next time might want to use better quality materials.
|The paint job doesnt need to be perfect is it possible to spray clear on top of the debris and wet sand the clear? The particles are sand grand size. Thats the reason they got past the filter small enough to fit through screen. I cant color sand this base but I can sand the clear. Would this help at all?
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By: Andrew Gavin (@GBGavin)
GREEN BAY, Wis. (GreenBayPhoenix.com) – Former Green Bay men's basketball head coach and Phoenix Hall of Famer Dick Bennett will serve as an adviser to head coach Brian Wardle and the men's basketball program beginning in 2013-14.
"Phoenix Hall of Famer and legendary coach Dick Bennett has been a great mentor and supporter of mine since I became the head coach at Green Bay," said Wardle. "I am excited that during the 2013-14 season he will be serving as an adviser to our coaching staff."
Bennett served as the head coach at Green Bay from 1985-95 and posted a record of 187-109. Under Bennett, the Phoenix won two conference championships and made three trips to the NCAA Tournament. He was inducted into the Phoenix Hall of Fame in 2002.
"One of my favorite phrases that I use with our team is "strengthen your strengths and improve your weaknesses," and having Coach Bennett around our program provides a valuable opportunity for all of us to do that while learning from one of the best. Personally," Wardle said. "I am looking forward to continuing to learn from one of the all-time great college basketball coaches."
In his career, Bennett served as a head coach for 28 seasons and won 316 combined games while at the helm of UW-Stevens Point, Green Bay, Wisconsin and Washington State. His teams appeared in six NCAA Tournaments at the Division I level. This past April at the NCAA Final Four, Bennett was honored with the Coach Wooden "Keys to Life" Award at the 17th Annual Legends of the Hardwood Breakfast.
"I was extremely excited to hear that Chancellor Harden had chosen Dick Bennett as the advisor," said Interim Director of Athletics Dan McIver. "Coach Bennett has always been dedicated to this program and his willingness to serve in this capacity is another example of that dedication. Coach Wardle and his staff are building a strong, competitive basketball program, and having Coach Bennett involved will provide a valuable asset to the program moving forward."
Bennett's son Tony, Green Bay's all-time leading scorer and a Phoenix Hall of Famer, is the head coach of Virginia. The Cavaliers will visit the Resch Center to take on Green Bay this season on Saturday, Dec. 7.
For the latest and most up-to-date information on Green Bay Athletics, please visit GreenBayPhoenix.com.
Follow us on Twitter: @GBPhoenix, @GBPhoenixMBB and @GBGavin.Like Green Bay Phoenix men's basketball and Green Bay Phoenix Athletics on Facebook.