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|Topic Review (Newest First)
|John Kelly
I recognize a few names on this post from other forums. Hi guys!
The talk about sand blasting is interesting...sounds like it might make a great stretching tool.....since I never use sand blasting, I haven't given much thought to its effects..stretching and work-hardening. A shrinking disc will work on large areas, but on a low crown panel, you may need to prop the metal out to shrink it without it popping in on you. As far as which side of the metal is stretched or shrunk, I don't think of it that way. It does not matter which side you apply shrink, or which side you hit with a hammer other than the convenience of access, or to bump the metal in a certain direction, which has nothing to do with stretching or shrinking. You can figure out whether shrinking or stretching is required by taking a template of the curve up and down and another front to back from the other side of the car. You need to read the panel in both directions to see if it is low or high. It is easy to get a false read if you don't check this in both directions as you work. Sometimes you might have to smooth with a hammer and dolly and shrinking disc just to read the panel, and then proceed to stretch up low spots, or shrink down highs, or both.
I've used a sauce pan lid, the bottom of a small stainless pitcher, a clogged up scotch brite pad on a sanding disc backup pad to shrink...they all work, but a shrinking disc takes the cake. If you see steam when you quench, you are shrinking. No need to change the color of the metal. You can shrink down huge bulges, or tiny little areas. Lately I've been playing with a low crowned disc (think very shallow hubcap) which seems to work even better than a flat one. It works in shallow reverses, and on flat panels where a flat disc is problematic, and it also works on regular crowned panels.
Oil cans are relatively easy to fix once you realize you can shrink and stretch at will without worrying, because you can always correct an over-stretch, or over-shrink.
By the way, the how to make a shrinking disc article was by Paul on the metalmeet site.
Great stuff Randy, thanks for posting it. I saved that one!
Like I have discussed with you, every time I read something you write something you have been saying finally hits home in my head. You have been talking about "slappers", I know some of the uses, I have a couple. But Wrays article really hit me as to why and how much more I should be using them. You could have wrote it again and it would have hit home just the same of coarse being Wray wrote it doesn't make the difference, I only mean that it FINALLY hit home with me.
Thanks again, Brian
Thanks Randy, "knowledge is power"!!
I previously found an article by Wray with pictures on how to make my own disk, it's great. A local restaurant supply has commercial stainless cookware lids that are the right thickness, diameter and flat. I just had to cut off the handle that was spot welded on, cut off the lip and drill the hole for my grinder. I heated and offset the hole about a 1/4" for the grinder nut.
|Randy Ferguson
Hey Nomad,
If you insist on trying to fix the problem and you do not have a shrinking disc, I would suggest getting one from Wray Schelin @ WES Parts. (508) 347-7749.
The following is a write up he did on the Jaguar forum a few years ago.
Although you are working on more than just a dent, the process is the same. the low area must be brought up equal to or above the surface level befor using the disc.
Tools for Removing Dents
by Wray Schelin
As promised to the XK self-restorers, who are about to get to the paint stage.
How smooth are your stripped body panels? That is the question you need to know before you advance to the primer stage. If they're not smooth you can fill them with bondo and heavy primer- but if you do so you run a high risk of a early paint failure and all your work will be in vain- or you can smooth them by accurately working the panel back to a smooth condition. If you rub your hand over the metal and feel low spots or high spots, you can be sure that they will show . Before you get your spray gun out you should be able to rub a panel in any direction and feel nothing but smoothness.
If you choose smoothing instead of filling, I'll share with you the technique that I use and some of the tools needed.
First the tools:
All body tools should have smooth working surfaces; hammers, slappers, and dollys are like printing presses, they will transfer the imperfections on their working faces to the metal over an over. Its best to take the time and smooth your tools first , because any imperfection transferred to the panel can make itself known later in the topcoats,as a paint shrinkage depression.
The higher quality body tools are made of heat treatable steel. You should have at least one hard hammer and one hard dolly- for hammering welds. The reason for this is the welds are harder than the surrounding metal and if you flatten them with a non hard hammer you will mark the hammer and then you will have to keep smoothing it. The working faces of hammers and slappers should have a very slight crown to them and the edges should be radiused. With the edges smooth and the center crowned slightly, you will not mark the panel if you inadvertantly strike with the edge of the tool.
The slapper is the most important smoothing tool. You can make a slapper out of a old rear leaf spring. Car springs are harder than welds, so they will not mark up. My slapper has a working face of 2.250" by 5". The thickness is .250" and the unbent starting length is 14". You can also get a single spring leaf new from your local truck spring rebuilder. You can cut it to shape with a cuttoff wheel or a torch, but cool it quick so you don't anneal it. I bent mine with an offset of 1.625" . The offset allows you to affix a wood handle and provides the clearance for your fingers. Heat with a torch to bend the offset and then narrow the handle end to a width of 1.375". The narrowed part is 5" long.
This slapper will smooth all body panels except for concave areas. For concave areas you will need to make a special slapper or use hammers. Once you start to use a slapper you will retire your hammer.
You will also need a few dollys. I found most of my dollies at flea markets for a few dollars each. Three or four dollies will be more than adequite to deal with all the different shapes and contours that you encounter . Each dolly usually has several different contours and crowns. As long as you have a straight edge , a low crown, medium crown, and a high crown you will be able to smooth any panel. Don't hesitate to alter the dolly to fit a need ,grind them with a body grinder, to rough shape then use a DA sander- with finer and finer sand papers- in rotary mode to achieve a fine polished finish.
Next you will need a body file and holder. The holders have a turn-buckle on them to allow you to flex the file to a concave, flat, or convex shape. The file that I use I was able to order from my local welding supplier. They are a dealer for a German company called Pferd. I got a Pferd catalog, an found that they offer a 12 tooth per inch body file , which is considered a fine cut body file. Most of the files that I had seen previously were 8 or 9 teeth per inch which are coarse body files. I like the fine file because I can use it on aluminum , steel, or body solder. When I use it on aluminum I load the teeth with a candle wax, this allows you to skate over the aluminum without digging in and making gouges. This type of file is 14 inches long and has cutting surfaces on each of its sides. On one side I grind the edges smooth in effect killing them so they do not dig in as you skate the file sideways. Pferd also sells the holders and a mutitude of different style files and abrasives, all are of the highest quality available anywhere. Pferd has distribution centers all over the world. In the USA they can be reached at
Pferd Inc
30 Jytek Dr.
Leominster, MA 01453
Phone 508 840-6420
In Australia:
Pferd Australia (Pty) Ltd.
Moorabbin, Vic.
3189 8 Capella Cresent
(03) 5531946+5531933
You can also try your local welding supply house and they might have a catalog.
Another item I use is a large magic marker or felt marker. The ones that I use are called magnums and they mark a swath about 1/2" wide with a tenacious ink that dries very quickly. I like red ink the best.
A heavy duty 9" body grinder is the most expensive item needed. You can use a lighter duty 7" grinder but it won't work as well as the 9" in all cases.
Also a 9" 120 grit grinding disc. Grinding discs when they are new are very sharp when you run your finger over them , after grinding a heavy peice of steel for a few minutes you will dull the disc. This is how I prepare my discs, purposely dulling them to make them suitable for use.
Lastly you will need the Amazing Shrinking Disc. I mentioned this tool before in another post, it is a 9" disc of .050" stainless steel. This tool is most effective when used with the heavy duty 9" body grinder. I can't say enough about how good this simple tool works.
In my next post I will explain the process that I use in conjunction with the earlier mentioned tools. For many years I haphazardly removed dents with a method which always left the panel in a improved state, but not perfect. I frankly didn't believe you could restore the damaged metal to a state were no filler other than primer would be neccessary. Like most things once you master them they are quite simple, all you need is the determination and the correct method.
Wray E. Schelin
As Paul Harvey says "And now, the REST of the story!"
Removing Dents
by Wray Schelin
In the last post I described the tools neccessary to completely remove
dents, waves, and dings in your body panels. In this post I will share with
you how I use the tools to achieve a panel smoothness that will require
very little or no bondo filler. It is best to keep your bondo use down for
two reasons. One,bondo use is not craftsmanship, its just a cheap
substitute. If your trying to achieve a high standard restoration- in my
opinion it is best to have the craftsmanship on more than just what you
see. The value of these cars is more than just the dollar amount. The
second reason is, if you keep your substrates (bondo fillers and primers)
to a very minimum and apply just enough topcoats you will have an ideal
thickness of paint coatings. With an ideal thickness your paint system will
be able to expand and contract with the steel and aluminum surfaces of your
cars body as it heats and cools. This correct thickness insures you against
an early paint failure. Coatings can fail for many other reasons, but too
much paint and filler I believe is the most common culprit.
The most surprizing thing about high quality metal finishing, is that is
not that difficult to do; but it does take patience, good eyesight, a fine
sense of touch, and the tools that I previously mentioned.
First what's fixable and what's not. If you have, say, a 120 front fender
that was severely damaged in a accident many years ago on its leading
surfaces, an was quickly repaired by sewing up tears with brazing rod,
crudely hammered out, ground very thin, and then filled with bondo, forget
it; in that case you are probably better served by replacing that heavily
damaged section. Another impossibilty is an area that has been incorrectly
torch shrunk; what had started out as an earnest limited attempt,
inadvertantly expanded to large area, leaving heat damage with heavy
intractable waves.
Fixable dents and damage, listed in a descending order of severity:
Bodged past repairs that are still fixable, because the metal has not been
ground too thin,
Collision damage with stretching and tearing,
Sandblasting with excessive pressure causing a wave effect,
Smoothing out the seam of a butt welded patch panel,
Small dents with little or no stretching,
I 'll share with you how I remove a small dent . An easy example will work
best, so lets say, its the rear fender of a XK120. The dent is in the
middle of the rear section of the fender, and its is about the size of your
fist, sunken in about 3/4" in the center. All paint and undercoating should
be removed first. I would first select a dolly that has a crown that is
close to the fender; in this case that would be a medium crown. Using a
glove to protect my fingers I would palm the dolly and lightly tap it
against the bump on the inside of the fender; carefully watching the
progress of the rising depression. I would use this process until I got the
dent up to within 1/8" of the surface. This will happen within minutes-
this is called roughing out the dent. Next I would hold the dolly tightly
against the center of the damage , on the backside, while I use the slapper
on the front, tapping the circumference of the dent. This is a dolly off
action, the slapper and dolly are not clashing with each other, they are
beside one another. I would keep tapping away with the slapper, moving the
dolly tightly with some force, against the lowest area of the dent. Slowly
the dent will rise to very close to the surface level. The slapper does
this operation very effectivly because it has such a large surface area,
compared to a hammer. With a hammer you're hitting a smaller area and you
might dent the area you're hammering against because it will yield easier
than the center of the dent.
Roughing and slapping the dent has reduced the dent by about 90% and
progress was swift. The next stage of metal finishing requires the bag of
tricks and the tools. The problem that you encounter at this final stage
is, you have trouble seeing what you're doing because your actions have to
be small. When you were roughing you could easily see the metal move closer
to the surface; but now you might only have to move the metal forty
thousands of an inch or less to reach the true surface. At this stage a
common practice is to use a pick hammer. In my opinion a pick hammer has
many drawbacks: one- you need room to be able to swing it; and generally
the hammer itself might be 6" or more across the head. Two- it is very easy
to over hit with a pick hammer and cause irrepairable damage. Three- more
likely than not you will not be able to strike the low spot, instead you
will hit the high spot worsening the problem. The safest bet is to retire
your pick hammer. This verdict also applies to the bulls-eye gimmick tools
which use a C shaped frame to guide you to the elusive low spot. If you go
down the bulls-eye road you will find your garage populated with many
expensive sizes and versions abslolutely needed to remove all those pesky
dents and dings. You will allways be one bulls-eye tool short.
What I do at this stage is coat the damaged area entirely with the 1/2"
wide red magic marker ( thats a US trade name for those who might not be
familar with them- there is no magic, its just a felt ink marker) Next I
draw the fine body file over the area, just lightly skimming the surface,
this will quickly reveal the high and low spots. The object now is to raise
the low spots. You can do this by placing a dolly with a high crown surface
tightly against the low spot. You will only be guessing at this point
unless you have x-ray vision . You find out where you really are with the
dolly by lightly slapping the surface, with the the slapper a few times,
trying deliberately to strike the dollies crown. If you are successfull -
and you probably will be, because of the slappers large working surface-
you will hear the ring of the contact of the metals. Slide the slapper to
the side, but leave the dolly where it is. You should be able to see a 1/8"
diameter ( a 1/8" inch affected area will raise quickly with little force ,
the size of the mark made when you slap it determines the speed of the
metal rise. 1/8" is fast 1/2" is slow) clear spot, or slightly less inked,
in a region of the small low spot that you were raising. If you goofed and
hit a high area instead you should be able to see a difference there too.
Whether you were in the right area or not is not important, what is most
important, is establishing where you are and being able to adjust . Watch
the trail marks left in the inked surface and you can steer the dolly, on
the backside, easily to where it is needed. Slap lightly, slowly raising
the low spot. After a few minutes, refile the area and your progress will
become apparent.
You might have to wash off the marker ink ; re-ink, and refile several
times. Each working of the area will reduce the size of the low spots.
Remember that the filing is meant just to scrape off the ink and not to
reduce the thickness of the metal. The force and stroke of the slapper will
be less as you progress. When you have reduced the low areas to less than
1/2" in diameter, and when you rub your hand over the area you still
slightly feel them, you are ready to use the shrinking disc.
The condition of the metal at this point is stressed and springy as a
result of all the trauma inflicted on it. The original damage has been
raised but in the process the metal has been stretched a little. If you
applied bondo at this stage some of the bondo would surround the damaged
area, feathering in the new surface height.
With the marker ink still on, and a wet rag handy, crank up the body
grinder with the shrinking disc and rub the area. You vary the pressure
according to how much you need to shrink. On the first pass I usually apply
light pressure. The metal will quickly begin to rise and expand from the
heat build-up. Remove the disc and wipe the area with a wet rag. With that
operation you have started to shrink, stress relieve and further fine tune
the outline of the low spots. You can now re-mark with ink, file and
further tap out the low spots with the slapper and dolly. Some dents might
require several cycles, but as you hone your technique you should be able
to remove most dents in fewer cycles . At this stage an obvious high spot
might have developed. You can easily remove it by rubbing the shrinking
disc over it; it will heat to a blue condition in seconds, and then cool
with the wet rag. After I'm satisfied that I can no longer effectivly
raise any remaining tiny low spots (depressions only a few thousands of an
inch deep). I then install the very dull 120 grit 9" grinding disc and
proceed to work the area with it. The grinding disc will level the area
leaving a almost polished surface, it will heat the area quickly also, so
cool it with a rag after you done grinding. If you have done everything
correctly you should have a very smoooth surface , that is stress free and
in no need of bondo.
If you practice these tecniques on some old , damaged, and unimportant
sheetmetal parts you will quickly hone your skill.
On some areas of the XK Jaguars it is almost impossible to get a
conventional dolly into the area; in those cases you have to be resourceful
and fashion something that will snake into the damaged area, it will be
effective as long as it resists the blows of the slapper causing the metal
to rise.
When working aluminum, I use all of the same techniques except, I do not
use the shrinking disc. Aluminum is much softer and requires less force to
work it.
Wray E. Schelin
One other point I just notice is in using the shrinking disc on aluminum. We now have discovered the disc doesn't need the ruffled edges, so we are making our own with a 1/4" flange. You can use common bar soap on the disc and a lttle rubbed across the panel and the disc works great for shrinking aluminum.
Randy Ferguson
Ferguson Coachbuilding
sandblasting - not my first rodeo!
Wow, it's amazing how juiced up people can get about a little thing like pushing sand particles at 100 mph!!! Gotta love this forum!! Thanks guys for being as passionate as I am to do things right!!
The only things I've been getting blasted are the heavy items like frame, brake shields and brackets. I specifically asked the guy to do the door edges and to just remove the worst scale at low pressure. The other items had come out great.
Thanks Randy for answering my real question about how to approach the problem. I'll try the disk, should be fine with that because there's really not much stretching. Just wanted to know if there were any tricks to finding the areas to concentrate on. If for some reason that doesn't work, I'll pull the doors off of the parts truck and go with those.
Makes me laugh at myself though, I'd rather spend the time to learn how to master the strectched metal (now that it's jacked up) than to just go pull those other doors!!
It comes down to common sense guys, a little experience is what it takes also. I sand blast a lot of parts, but never a large panel, hoods, decks, doors etc.. I blast firewalls, door jambs.inner structures, rockers. bumpers. floor boards, inner fenders, cowling ,tailgates, windshield posts, frames and suspensions etc.
Last year when I was doing my elcamino, I was using a small spot blaster to clean the windshield pinch weld area, the hood had a couple of scale rust spots the size of a quarter and I hit them with the little blaster, they must have raised a 1/4 inch.
It took me a week to fix that dang thing.
Like the rest, I have seen many parts and whole cars ruined with a sand blaster, but I blast every thing I can,t sand easily. I shoot at an angle, never 90* and use a silica sand. I also try to keep the nozzle as far away as I can.
I have blasted lots of early rod body shells with no problems.
You just need to know what you can blast and what you can't.
It's like any other tool, just use it wisely.
|Randy Ferguson
I think what XXXXXX writes in that message, and what I have written above mean about the same thing. I put things into laymans terms and he took the technical route. THe only difference I can see would be the stretching of only the surface. If this were the case, then simply sanding the hardened, compressed surface would relieve the stresses and the rest would pop right back up into place. At least that how I understand it would be if that theory were correct. Not being a scientific kinda guy, I couldn't care less how the molecules of metal are stacked. I can't see them, so to me, they are a non-issue. As long as you can shape a piece of metal to look how you want it and it not be stressed and under tension, then you've done your job well. This is a whole other story for another day.
The question here was how to fix the stretched metal from sandblasting. It can be done effectively with a shrinking disc, but be prepared to spend several hours trying to get it right. My advice: get another set of doors.
And remember my motto "Metal is stupid. You control the metal, the metal never controls you."
Randy, this is a copy of an email I received after posting about sand blasting. I thought it sounded pretty reasonable, what do you think?
Sandblast warping Sandblast warping
XXXXX XXXX here - I read your post / recommendations against sandblasting body parts and I am in complete agreement. However, the mechanism that creates warpage is not the heat associated with friction of the abrasives hitting the metal. Rather it is the compressive forces induced within the sheet of metal by the heavy abrasive particles hitting the metal surface. You will not see this same warping when light abrasives are used because they lack the kinetic energy required to compress the molecules in the steel sheet thus leaving the sheet in the same stress state as it was in when formed by the dies at the factory.
This is a common misunderstanding, yet this behavior is well understood by some industries and is exploited by those who understand it to improve fatigue life of certain parts (like connecting rods for instance - they are often shot peened to redistribute stresses and place the surface of the rods in compression to reduce fatigue crack propagation).
When you blast one side of sheet metal, that side of the sheet metal surface will build compressive stresses and will physically grow - this places the opposite side of the sheet into tension - this will result in the side being blasted to bow up toward the blasting source.
In order for warping to occur due to thermal conditioning - the metal actually has to be heated up to a point where the molecules reach a transition state where they go from one packing arrangement to another (close cubic packed to close hex packed) - picture a six pack of beer held together with the plastic rings - that is stress relieved / annealed steel. Now - take the cans out and stack them so that each row of cans is offset by half a can diameter - this is a tighter pack - although less friendly from a packaging standpoint at the grocery store. This new denser orientation is the orientation that steel molecules take on when raised to a sufficient temperature (depends on carbon content and alloys) . . . if you raise steel to this temperature and then quench it - you lock the close packing orientation into this dense packing structure and this results in shrinkage (and increased hardness / brittleness).
Using this technique it is possible to take a piece of 1013 mild steel, whack a piece off, heat the piece up and then drop it in a bucket of water, use a water cooled grinder to sharpen it . . . and then you can cut the parent piece of metal with it as it is harder and denser in this condition.
Soooooo . . . . that is the difference between warping / shrinkage of metal due to sandblasting (compressive mechanism - localized molecular packing) or due to thermal influences (gross - macroscopic transition of molecules to a higher density due to re-orientation of molecular packing).
With all this knowledge in hand (or mind) . . . you now also know that thermal conditioning is typically used to shrink metal on a localized basis where sandblasting will always cause metal to grow on a localized basis.
Hope this makes sense . . . thanks for the great writeup!
Jessie, I can attest this damage is not limited to late model cars. I understand it was a large flat panel like a late model, but the "good old steel" will do it just the same. I had a 1928 Buick door and a pair of 32 Ford doors RUINED by a sandblaster. I KNEW not to sandblast these parts to "white steel" but I figured a "dusting" wouldn't hurt. I was doing them for a display at a convention (ala NACE) for NAPA auto parts. The Buick door was SUPER straight and I was just going to have it lightly blasted, I would apply a coat of polyester primer, sand it and paint it. Then have a NAPA logo from the 1930s put on it like it was from an old delivery truck, cute idea huh?
So I took it to a sandblaster that I have had do a lot of work for me and my brother over the years. He did the 1922 Buick Roadster body on my brothers car, MANY frames, inner fenders, etc. over the years, he "seemed" to know what he was doing.
He barely blasted this thing, 90% of the surface rust was still there, he didn't bare down on it at all.
The door was TOTALLY RUINED (so were the duece doors but they were junk to begin with) I REALLY wanted to do this display and it was the only door I had so I had to "fix" it. I shrank it with a torch and a ROSE BUD tip! It was sooooooo screwed up it took me hours of work to "fix". I say "fix" because after I got it so it wouldn't oilcan I went to my "stock" of filler and mixed up a gallon for it! It ended up being DAMN straight, looked pretty good actually. It got a good coat of polyester primer, sanded and shot with an SS urethane bright red and the NAPA logo. It still hangs in the office of one of my favorite customers. It weighed a lot more than original, hope it doesn't fall on someone.
|Jessie J.
The biggest difference as to how the panel will react to being sand blasted is the amount of compound curvature present,
'Tight' panels with a lot of curvature, like '30s and '40s fat fenders, and inner panels that have strengthening ribs, will usually not exhibit any noticeable distortion after blasting.
But the large low crown exterior panels common to later model cars can be warped in a matter of seconds, I managed to destroy 2 nice 1960 Chevy hoods in just lightly sandblasting a few freckles of rust off the inside, after that frustrating experience I now only use careful hand sanding to remove rust from low crown panels, this is especially important if there is any inner bracing of the panel that cannot be easily removed (like on a '60 chevy hood)
On 'tight' panels like my old '48 Studebaker truck blasting works fast and the metal can be cleaned to the point called 'metal in white' that is as clean as it will go, this however is NOT advisable, as such harsh blasting peens the metal and work hardens it, making it brittle and prone to developing stress cracks.
Because of this I do not use blasting as a means of paint removal, I first remove all paint with a chemical stripper then use the minimum amount of blasting that will remove the 'loose' rust, if it is absolutely necessary to remove more rust beyond this point I employ the DA , hand sanding or a chemical rust remover.
However as I posted in the thread 'RUST...' I prefer on most interior or hidden panels to leave a thin even film of rust and coat with a 'Moisture Cure' coating.
Thanks for putting this altogether for me. I now understand whats going on here and the heat kinda put it all together.
I'm a sand blasting fanatic, I keep a dozen ceramic tips of three different i/d's in the garage as back up at all times.
Over the years I have herd of panels being destroyed but I have never personally seen it.
May just be sand blasting with common sense? Like using a 25 cent car wash and flaking the clear off?
|Randy Ferguson
The velocity is less, but mostly, you've just been lucky!
|If its ok I would like to put in my 2 cents. Some time back I created one of Martinsr's totally ruined,throw it in the trash parts, a 64-1/2 mustang deck lid. It took a new lid to correct that little mistake and from then on I was a lot more careful. I was using a pressure blaster at 120 lbs. pressure and regular sand(for lack of a better description)and even though I moved quickly and did not hold the blast stream in one spot when I stopped to check my progress I was shocked at the amount of warpage! Now I try to avoid sand blasting but I have used a suction blaster at 90 psi with no problems so far. I am not saying that a suction blaster is ok and will not damage a panel but it does seem to me to be a lot safer if someone does decide to sand blast. Could it be that the sand velocity is lower in a suction type blaster?or have I just been lucky so far?
|Randy Ferguson
I've been reluctant to jump in on this one.
Whether it's male ego, or what, I'm not sure, but we seem to have this "my way is best" theory that we just can't seem to get over.
Personally, I will not touch exterior body panels with a sandblaster. Inner structural pieces are usually heavier and have lots of offsets, etc. that stiffen them enough that any stretching is not noticeable.
The high pressure, (even at 100lb) from sandblasting can, AND WILL, cause the metal to distort to varying degrees. Sometimes you get by, other times, you're not so lucky. The best aproach is to stay away from it!! I've seen far more panel absolutely ruined by sandblasting than not. Most by DIY'ers using small hobby shop blasters. It's not a pretty sight, nor is it easy to repair.
As far as the metal being stretched only on the outer surface....hmmm....don't think so. Think of what happens to stretch the metal. It's been said that the heat of the process stretches the metal. We know this to be false, simply because heating metal causes it to shrink, not stretch. Besides that, metal needs to be heated in a localized area to about 300 degrees for this to happen. If sandblasting is getting the metal THAT hot, I've certainly never seen it. The principals are the same as if you took a hammer and wailed away at it. Only difference is the size of the hammer. The sand is like millions of tiny hammer blows per minute. The surface isn't all that's getting stretched, but rather the entire panel, throughout. I have no known proof, but I would venture to guess the surface is extremely hard and brittle. Ever notice how tough it is to get rid of the sandblasted texture with an 80 grit DA pad??
Lastly, my advice, without seeing pictures, would be to find another set of doors and leave the sandblasting to heavier operations. It was never meant to be an option for cleaning automotive body panels.
If you want to safely remove paint and rust, your best solution is to have them professionaly dipped by a company worthy of such a task. Redi Strip is the way to go, as they do not use an acid based agent to remove rust and paint. They use a heavy alkaline solution that doesn't re-activate once moisture becomes present.
Good Luck with your project. Worse case, I guess I'll have to make you a new set of door skins!!
Randy Ferguson
Ferguson Coachbuilding
We are not in any disagreement I assure you. It can be done, it is done, I know that. My point maybe wasn't made clear. It CAN cause this damage and many times will.
I have seen little home sandblasters do it, of course how big these "little" sandblasters and or the compressor used is the issue. The fact is, I have seen it MANY times. You have either been lucky or used great care with common sense (I choose the later). Not everyone has the skills to pull it off. For this reason I aways recommend against it.
The problem is as I said this causes some of the most severe damage I have ever seen. I have been around this stuff my whole life and I have had darn hard time doing ANYTHING with some of the panels I have tried to repair. I am sure someone of Randy's talents can repair it (I should say, "I assume", there are some things that are beyond hope) few home hobbyest with the hankering to get out and sand blast have the skills to repair the damage it can cause.
As far as the repair, "how to tell if it is the inside or outside that needs shrinking?" that is a darn good question and the hardest part. How can you tell if both sides were blasted? If only the outside was blasted then the outside is what is stretched. If both sides were blasted, then both sides are stretched at different places? I don't know how you can find where to do the shrinking. I can do wonders with a crash damaged panel, but the sand blasting damage I have seen is just darn hard to repair. I have usually ended up "getting it close" and stopping it from "oil canning" and then filling the darn thing body filler.
I do have to agree, that is will take some work to get that panel straight now that it is stretched from blasting, since it is really hard to tell how much (area wise) it is stretched. Unfortunately, most blasting shields provide very limited viewing. That means that you can barely see what is being removed, let alone, if the metal is being stretched, or how much. Chances are that the operator never saw what he had done, until he had effected a large area. Unlike what we see in the collision work, where it is a small area that is stretched, and you can look and see what part is stretched, this may be an an area where "trial and error" might be the only chance. One thing about it. There is nothing to loose by trying/practicing.
Maybe Randy Ferguson has some tips that would help.
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Technical Leadership (Bachelor of Applied Science)
Technical Leadership (Bachelor of Applied Science)
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This unique program provides a seamless pathway to a bachelor's degree for graduates of A.A.S., A.S. and A.A. technical degree programs. It provides the knowledge and skills necessary to assume leadership roles in workgroups and project teams — skills necessary for career advancement in a rapidly changing, globalized workplace.
The Technical Leadership program is offered through a blend of online and on-site courses at the campus of our first program partner — Lehigh Carbon Community College. Most courses are scheduled in the evenings, making this an excellent fit for working technical professionals. In addition, students at Lehigh Career & Technical Institute have the ability to dual-enroll at LCCC during their junior and senior years, getting an early start on their college coursework.
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Discussion in 'Off The Beaten Track' started by LisaS, Jan 21, 2011.
So I potentially am going on a work trip to Dallas in February. Are there are any must sees?
Miranda Lambert is playing at Billy Bob's on the 18th and 19th. Although it's sold out, you might be able to score some resale tix. Full concert schedule is here.
I consider Billy Bob's a must see, just because of the audacity of the place. Even if you can't get tix to a concert night, see if your workmates will take you to see it.
Sixth Floor Museum - it's really interesting, and thought provoking. (Dealy Plaza - up the hill from the Hilton.
I just went on a tour of Cowboys stadium. I'm not a football fan but I still found it really interesting. It was featured on history channel and is the largest unsupported structure in the world.
If you're interested in sculpture, I'd recommend the Nasher Sculpture center...it's an indoor/outdoor space a beautiful setting to admire art. The Dallas Museum of Art and Trammell Crow Asian Art center are both within walking distance of the Nasher, so you could do all 3 in one day. The Asian Art center is free and houses an extensive private collection, I took my folks there and couldn't get them to leave until they were ready to close
Honestly? Nothing.
As someone who is from Dallas, I think we seriously have nothing to offer.
Billy Bob's is in Fort Worth, btw. So you have to drive. I think you can take the dart - but the dart is generally not a safe ride. They do not check tickets and women traveling alone should be armed with pepper spray.
If you do take the dart to Fort Worth (Stockyards and Billy Bob's) - I think you take it to a train station and must ride the train to Fort Worth.
Aw come on- there's lots of tall buildings and concrete...
Reunion Tower has a Wolfgang Puck restaurant. I haven't eaten in the restaurant but I have had drinks & appetizers in the bar & it's really nice. The tower rotates like Seattle's space needle so the view is fantastic.
I live in Fort Worth & I think there is lots to do in both cities. Fort Worth's Stockyards has many original buildings from the cattle drive days & is interesting. You can ride on a longhorn or visit the cowboy museum there or visit Billy Bob's: the largest honky-tonk in the world.
Lol that's about right. And overpriced carriage rides!
Fort Worth is fun - the Stockyards could easily be an all day thing. You should do that!
A trip to Ft. Worth is well worth it -- the museum district is manageable and first rate! Downtown Ft. Worth is awesome -- have a beer for me at the Flying Saucer Saloon neer Bass Hall...over a 100 beers on tap....sigh....
You can also drive to Grapevine (quaint small town square suurounded by upper middle class suburbs) - just north of DFW - and take a century old Tarantula train to the Ft. Worth Stockyards.
But, yeah. Dallas proper?
ITA. When I had business in Dallas, I just trusted my workmates to get me to the right places. I don't think we ever did anything in Dallas proper.
There is Fair Park theater where they put on musicals...not local talent but the touring companies & the Eichmann in North Dallas has the Symphony & puts on things like the piano competitions. You can google for their schedules for when you come. The Nokia in Grand Prairie (a suburb to the west of Dallas) gets things like the Amer Idol tour & other musical tours. The Galleria Mall is worth a trip too. But I agree (plus I'm biased) that Fort Worth has more to see & do.
Just a warning about Fair park - if there is no reason for you to be there, please do not hang out down there. It is dangerous. If you are going to a musical or a show - it should be fine. Otherwise, avoid it.
I lived in a suburb of Dallas for a few years. I love Dallas. Places to visit- JFK memorial (where he was shot), Cowboys stadium (I have not yet seen the new one; I had visited Texas Stadium)- it's in Arlington. The Hyatt tower is very nice, if you want to have a leisurely dinner and watch the city lights. They have nice cultural programs; you will need to look up the local listings/schedules. Other than that, I can't think of any tourist type places. I just loved living there.
I had to go to Dallas for work once. I only remember liking two things, sorry - this very, very cool outdoor sculpture of running wild horses which is somewhere near the Convention Center, and the beef. Honestly, if you eat meat, try to find a good steak house. The beef in Dallas was, IMO, very nice.
Fort Worth is more what people think of when they think Dallas, ironically. It's very country and less urban in a lot of ways than Dallas. The Stock Yards are always fun and Billy Bob's is a must-see. The Botanical Gardens off University in Ft Worth are also gorgeous.
Public transportation in Dallas/Fort Worth sucks, though. The DART runs from Dallas to Fort Worth and back but not to Arlington, which is the major tourist hub (Ball park, Cowboys Stadium, Six Flags). The Dallas Museum of Art is free on Wednesdays, I want to say, and is nice for a quiet afternoon.
Are there still great cafeterias in Dallas?


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From the ORG: From Rotoworld:
Like Brandon Phillips before him, acquiring Anderson would be a great buy-low move on a former top prospect... This is kinda like David Aardsma...The Chicago Sun-Times believes that Brian Anderson is on his way to a National League team in a trade.
It's for the best. Possible destinations for Anderson include the Pirates, Marlins, Cubs, Padres, Reds and Braves. We wouldn't rule out the Nationals, either, just because Jim Bowden can never have enough outfielders.


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what do you use for lights in your shop/garage?
i have 2-- HO (T12) cold start 8' fluorescent lights, with some randomly placed, cheap plug in 4' fluorescent.
i noticed the big 8' lights were getting dimmer than the cheap 4' lights.
(talking to wife, she said those big lights are 7-8 years old)
:P the HO 8' lights were like a movie scene with the heavens opening up, and angels descending, when i first got them !! :P
but it is dark in the garage now, so i went and bought new tubes for the 8' HO lights and WOW :eek: what a difference :cool: :thumbup:
when i went to get the new bulbs, i decided to buy one more 8' HO fixture to replace one of the small 4', but its so bright now i don't know if i need it.
but, i got it now, and you cant have too much light, right? :pimp:
I have enough 4' fluorescent 48watt shop fixtures that brain surgery is possible.
I had salvaged a truckload of 8' fixtures @ a buck apiece and tubes 20 years ago when GE tore down a building, enough to light up my neighborhood. The tubes all finally went - and the replacements were way too expensive, so the fixtures were sent to scrap as well.
i'm also curious what kind of work light do most guys use
i have a couple old school lights and one fluorescent
i kinda like the fluorescent because it has a magnet to hang it, built in
i converted my friends 10k sq ft shop w/ 18 ft ceilings, from metal halide to 4ft, 6 bulb T8 fixtures 2 yrs ago. the power company had rebates and calculated the energy savings payback to 2.5 yrs. very efficient lighting. we do have a string of the 8 ft HO fixtures, 110 watts for each bulb and they do not last long. i have not replaced any of the T8 bulbs, but have had to replace the HO bulbs 2x in 2 yrs. it seems that they have max output for 6 mth or less and progressively go down to black ends.
my own shop has a grid of switched outlets on the ceiling. i use a mid-range/cost 4ft, 2 bulb T8 fixtures with a wire cover as my shop ceilings are @ 8 ft. the cheaper fixtures do not last and have hard start times in the coldest part of my shop.
for work lights i have a couple of 300 watt flood lights that i can move around on the floor or hang from strategically placed hangers on the ceiling. and a fluorescent work light.
I have a small garage, and have been using it pretty much since I was a kid. It has five lights in it, and some windows.
This picture shows four of the lights.
Closest, is a six foot fixture, it has two HO (110Watt) T12 tubes. This is an odd lamp, and I have to go to a specialty lighting supply to get new lamps for it.
Over the cluttered bench, is a 4 foot, "shop lamp", that uses T8 32 watt lamps. Just your normal "home depot" type shop light.
On the back side of the garage, is an old two tube four foot fluorescent fixture. This was made from parts salvaged from an old fixture, and is so old, it uses a starter, the little can about the size of a turn signal flasher. This fixture takes about 4 seconds to warm up, and come on, but it has always come on, and I do not think I have put new lamps in it since about 1980?
Over the bench, by the windows, are two 6" 500 watt theatrical Fresnels.
This is a close up picture.
These fixtures are on gimbals, and can be pointed anywhere in the garage, and focused from a fairly narrow spot, to a wide flood. They are wired into dimmers.
These lights can also supply a bit of radiant heat. In fact, I have taken these lamps down, mounted them on a stand, and used them to help cure gelcoat and fiberglass in cold weather. The picture is taken around around 50 or 60 percent of full output.
I use florescent lights and I paint everything in the garage white; ceiling floors and walls. It helps with reflectivity.
I have no windows for a couple reasons. One is, no one looks inside. Second, on bright days your eyes adjust to the bright window and make it difficult to see inside. Skylights might be a better solution but I have a drop ceiling and not ready to put roof windows. I have a hard time getting the bathroom vent to seal.
A problem people often do not realize is the florescent lights like I have, can limit the wave length of light. While everything is well lit, it can still be difficult to see what you are looking at. This can strain the eyes or make you tired when you don't even realize it.
One way to see this, go to your tap set. Pick up a medium size tap and read the shaft. Now go to a smaller tap till you cannot read the numbers. Now take it outside and see if you can read it. I can easily read a tap in natural light when I couldn't even see writing on the shaft under the florescent light.
I am not suggesting not using florescent. I use it for obvious reasons (size of the shop, large lamps, etc) but I do have a light tree I point on different projects from time to time. When the light tree on I can feel my eyes relax and it is just easier to see things.
Sky lights in my shop are beyond all expectations. Even though I have 8 of the latest lighting technology, I only turn them on when it is very cloudy out side or if the sun is down. My eyes do not have the light gathering capability as they once did, so I need good lighting. A lighted magnifier is extremely useful, especially when I am digging metal shavings out of my finger tips. I have a couple of LED lights for working under a vehicle. One is on a stand and the other is a trouble light style. They can be irritating when using my auto darkening welding helmet.
In my 24x24 I have 6 twin tube 8' HO Florescent fixtures, ceilings and walls are painted gloss white.
shop lights.
The 4 car house garage has no windows, 2 light circuts, 4 flouresent fixtures in the front and 4 in the back, It has 4 ft of insulation in the attic and the cinderblocks have the cores filled with insulation, and a gas furnace, but with 3 cars inside, tool box, welder, tire balancer, tire changer, upholstery sewing machine and a deep freeze and fridge not enough work room, the light fixtures like the warm room. The 5 K sq ft shop has low temp flouresent fixtures in the front half but with 16 ft walls , not enough light in the work areas, I use 500 watt halogen work lights, and some HF magnetic base lights with rough usage bulbs. I have a lot of reading lights from garage sales, one on the radial arm saw, one on the drill press, band saw, lathe etc practically every machine has it;s own light,
1 Attachment(s)
My main garage is about 55 ft. wide, 35 ft. deep and 14 ft. high, I get by on 8 sets of 4 ft. 2 tube fixtures and 3 sets of the same over the work bench.
Try T-5 light 4 foot units if you want some really bright work area that look like a sky lite when you have it beside a normal T-8 bulb. I've got a couple at the front over my lift and they really help. Only problem the are pricey.
High effciency T8's with chrome reflectors. The light is whiter which makes it appear brighter. I only have three fixtures in the front side of my shop right now (1200 ft) and it is plenty to work. I am going to double it when I get a chance to run some more pipe and hang them.
I had (8) 8ft T12's with no reflectors in my old shop that were not as bright as these small fixtures.
Reflectors behind the lights is key to getting all of the light from a florescent. Without good reflectors your getting 60% of the light they are putting out and the rest is just absorbed into the surface under the bulbs. Light colored walls, as mentioned, helps alot too. BTW, I was an energy engineer in a previous life and we used the little T8 fixtures with reflectors in buildings all across the US.
I did some searching on both the T5 and T8 lights, and most of the results came up with grow lights :eek:
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Greenpeace India is campaigning for climate solutions that will help us develop without damaging the planet. By starting an energy revolution that seizes the opportunity for low carbon and sustainable growth while ensuring quality energy access to millions who are denied it currently, we can deliver on development and protect our natural world for current and future generations.
Everyone knows that climate change is real and happening now. What many people don't know is that we have the solutions in our hands. The world needs:
Ø An energy revolution that lets us quit coal in favour of renewable energy sources like biomass, wind power and solar energy
Ø Protection for our forests, so they can continue to clean our atmosphere.
Ø Responsible IT companies who offer climate solutions, and advocate for good environmental laws.
On these pages you can learn more about the science of climate change, and the impacts it is already causing. You can read our detailed policy briefings and discover that politicians, businesses and people can all be part of the solution.
Greenpeace activists dressed as "Climate Cops" act as postmen and deliver 20K petitions signed by car owners and citizens across India to the Director General of the Bureau of Energy Efficiency (BEE), Dr. Ajay Mathur, at Sewa Bhavan in New Delhi...
Five activists at the top of the 200m chimney at the Kingsnorth coal power plant.
KENT, United Kingdom — On 9th October 2007 a bunch of Greenpeace activists shutdown a coal fired power plant in Kingsnorth, Kent, UK. They were arrested and charged with criminal damage. Nearly one year later and they have been acquitted in a...
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Abhishek Pratap is a Masters in Environmental Science from Pune University. He did his academic research at Bhabha Atomic Research Center (BARC) Mumbai on the disposal of chromium metal in soil. When free, Abhishek enjoys photography, listening to music and reading.


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Mold contaminates University of Missouri book storage unit
Approximately 600,000 books and journals damaged
COLUMBIA, Mo. - More than a half million books and journals belonging to the University of Missouri may be damaged or destroyed because of mold.
A letter sent by MU Director of Libraries Jim Cogswell details the presence of active mold growth on books and bound journals located in an off-site storage facility north of Columbia.
The underground facility, owned by Subtera Underground Warehousing, houses roughly 600,000 titles of all genres.
The University's library staff estimates $1.8 million in damages. Christian Basi, the assistant news director of the News Bureau at the university, said some of the titles date back prior to the Civil War.
Right now, the library staff has put a hold on all loans for the affected materials. The group will filter through every book or journal to determine if it will be salvaged or destroyed.
If it is a title that can be found online or in other libraries, it will be eliminated from the collection. More rare books that cannot be found anywhere else will be treated.
Until test results come back from the university's Environmental Health and Safety staff, it will not be clear how to treat the material. The results will determine the type of mold and its health risk. According to Basi, those results are expected within the next two weeks.
Basi said the group plans to spend roughly $900,000 in treating the materials they keep. It's unknown if a self-insurance fund through MU's library system will cover that cost.


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THIS WEEK: Friday, June 29, 2012 @ 7:30 pm
(Rebroadcast Sunday @ 11 am )
PULLING THE PLUG ON KEMPER?: Is Kansas City finally ready to give up on Kemper Arena? Well it seems that the Kansas City, Missouri City Council just might be as it votes this week to terminate AEG's contract to manage the decades old facility. No longer will the city try to market Kemper as a viable alternative to Sprint Center
MCCASKILL SKIPPING DEMOCRATIC NATIONAL CONVENTION: Having been a major speaker at the last Democratic National Convention in Denver, Missouri U-S Senator Claire McCaskill says this week she will skip this summer's party convention in Raleigh, North Carolina.
NIXON DISTANCES HIMSELF FROM OBAMA ON HEALTHCARE: Republicans pounced on news reports this week that Missouri Governor Jay Nixon, a Democrat, is distancing himself from the President's Healthcare Reform Law, just as the Supreme Court decides that the law is constitutional. Is this a 180 degree turn for Nixon? We take a closer look and examine other local and regional implications of this week's big healthcare ruling.
KU EARNS NATIONAL CANCER CENTER DESIGNATION: The University of Kansas Medical Center is informed that it it will receive it's long sought after National Cancer Institute Designation. It opens the door to millions of dollars in federal grants as well as private funds for advanced research in cancer prevention, diagnosis and treatment.
KID IN CLOSET CASE BRINGS UP TOUGH QUESTIONS: The disturbing case of a young Kansas City girl police found living in a closet, locked away without food, festering in her own feces and urine makes national headlines this week and brings with it a lot of troubling questions. Why did it take so long for anyone to notice and rescue the girl aged 10 who weighed just 32 pounds?
MAYOR JAMES KICKS OFF REPAIR CAMPAIGN: On Wednesday, Kansas City Mayor Sly James kicks off the campaign to provide a new source of money for the Parks and Recreation Department and approve a half billion dollars to pay for the city's massive sewer repair project. James and other city leaders are asking voters on August 7 to approve Kansas City Questions 1 and 2. The campaign is called "Reform Repeal, Repair". What would be repaired? And what exactly are we reforming?
Scott Parks
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Connor joins the TWiV team to discuss bats as hosts for major mammalian paramyxoviruses.
Right-click to download TWiV 183 (66 MB .mp3, 92 minutes).
Subscribe to TWiV (free) in iTunes , at the Zune Marketplace, by the RSS feed, by email, or listen on your mobile device with the Microbeworld app.
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No shortage of opportunites for The Short Fall
18 April 2013 , 2:24 PM by Kallee Buchanan
It's been a big few months for local band, The Short Fall.
Brothers Angelo and Ryan Conway are edging ever closer to their dreams of making it big in the music industry since recording their latest song, The Meadow.
They also recorded a debut music video for the track from their EP Make a Move, which has helped it climb into the Top 100 songs on Triple J Unearthed.
The video was also played on Rage over the weekend and things aren't stopping there.
I asked the boys what the last few months have been like for them.
Photo: Alice Roberts
They also played a song, Maybe We're Losing.
Yeppoon at the Town Hall, May 25
Brisbane at Dowse Bar, May 30
Gold Coast at Govs Espresso, May 31
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Rocker contacting top of retainer on vortec heads
I don't mean to beat a dead horse, but here's my dilemma. I thought I had this ALL figured out. I've got the #906 vortec heads, Comp 26918 springs(recommended installed height 1.80") 787 retainers and +.050 locks. This gave me my necessary height and retainer to seal clearance, with NO machining. I don't like the idea of taking away that much material from the guides and seat, especially since the guide is ALSO the spring locator. I don't even know if ANY material can be taken away from seat to increase installed height? Now my rockers are contacting on many of the retainers. If I put the standard locks in place plenty of valve tip is available, however, that takes away my retainer to seal clearance AND increases my seat pressure to approx. 144 lbs. I feel my only option is +.100 longer valves. I will take up any extra height with -.050 locks OR shims. I know I'll have to keep the geometry correct at final assembly via pushrods. BTW, cam is 222-230 dur. .509/.528 lift @ .050 with 1.5 rockers. I'll be using Comp 1.52 rollers(self aligning). Screw in studs are already in place. As stated, I already have ALL these parts. Any thoughts or suggestions greatly appreciated.
try lash caps?
Are you SURE you currently have the correct pushrods? with an aftermarket cam you will likely need longer ones, and that may give you the clearance you need.
Lash caps crossed my mind, AFTER iI already pulled the heads back off of the engine. I hadn't yet used a marker/dykem to see roller sweep across valve tip, but even if I do need longer pushrods, the clearance is nil. I can actually spin the roller tip on one valve stem with rocker installed. Rocker RAIL is resting on the retainer, roller isn't even contacting valve. I WILL use lash caps or Manley LocCaps if I can. The 787 retainers are 7*. Are super 7 locks compatible? I have no lash cap experience, so if this is truly an option someone please let me know. Thanks.
Super & locks are actually 8 degree. Will not work correctly on any thing but super 7 retainers.
If your rockers are the self guided rail type. Lash caps won't work. They increase the valve tip diameter to 3/8". Rocker will be too narrow between rails.
Cheapest way out is to go with a +.050 pushrod and lightly trim the rocker rails for clearance. As long as the roller remains fairly centered on the valve you will be ok.
I didn't think lash caps & rail rockers would go together, no clearance there. I was just looking at them & realized that. I'm kinda leary about shaving down the rails. I sure don't want to turn 'em into paperweights. Could I switch to guideplates if I remove the rails, or muck 'em up trying to shave 'em down? I certainly don't need any extra expense (new valves) if not absolutely necessary. Thanks for your input.
What valves are you using?
Vortec valves have a .290" valve tip for self aligning rocker arms. Standard SB Chevy valves have .250" valve tips. If you use standard SB Chevy valves, self aligning rocker arms will contact the keepers.
I had to use Manley 11863-1 (E) 1.600" and 11860-1 (I) 1.940" valves and self aligning rocker arms. Ferrea does not have SB Chevy valves with a .290" tip. You must use Ferrea valves for a 351-C Ford.
Do not machine the Vortec valve spring pockets. They are too thin, use +.050" keepers to gain valve spring height. My heads have exhaust valve spring rotators which presents a special problem on the exhaust valves. I had to use .075" shims and + .050" locks " on the exhaust valve springs to get 1.750" assembled height. No problem with standard locks on the intake valve springs.
I am also using Comp Cams 26918 beehive valve springs. I enlarged the stock spring seat diameter from 1.250" to 1.320" in order to fit the Comp Cams beehive valve springs. I was even nervous about doing that.
Were you able to widen the spring pockets without taking the guide dia. down? I'd also like to widen the pockets a bit as the spring is quite tight/binding in pocket as it sits. The Comp tool takes down the guide (spring locator) as it opens the pocket if I remember correctly. I don't want to do that. Thanks for info. I bought the heads off c-list so I don't know if valves are original. I will measure the groove to tip distance in a bit. I THINK Trick Flow has valves with longer groove to tip?
I would have used the 26981 springs and reduced the guide height with the Comp part #4726 cutter for .530 seals. Not alot has to be taken off to give the required retainer to seal clearance.
I pulled a couple of valves, did some measuring, and found some discrepancy. The valve with actual CONTACT with the rocker rail measured .25" groove to tip. The valve WITHOUT contact, but very close measures .29". I don't know if the previous owner swapped some valves or ground the tip down. It looks as if some grinding was done. Tip of valve has machine marks on it. Do I file off rocker rails & install guide plates, or buy new/ longer valves?
My machinist used a Comp Cams 4716 cutter to enlarge the valve spring seats for the beehive valve springs and reduced the O.D. of the inner spring locator boss. The tool cuts 1.320" O.D. valve seat x .630" valve guide boss. The Comp Cams 26918 valve springs are 1.310" O.D. x .885" I.D. at the base. The engine builder may have used Goodson tools but they cut the same dimensions as the Comp Cams cutters. I talked to the machinist about reducing the O.D. of the inner spring locator boss and he seemed to think reducing it to .630" O.D. for the .885" I.D. valve springs would not create a problem. The cutter provides spring clearances of .005" outer x .128" inner in order to register the valve spring properly on the head. That stabilizes the valve spring and prevent "dancing" (oscillation).
The valve guide itself was cut for Comp Cams 518 Viton metal body seals for 11/32" stems (.530" guide x .575" O.D. seal) using a Comp Cams 4726 guide cutter. I think the machinist removed about .150" guide height for .060" minimum retainer to seal clearance. He used the Comp Cams Viton metal body seals on the intake and exhaust valves. The Comp Cams seals are .575" O.D. and were pushed down on the .530" guides. That places the seals .060" from the ledge of the .630" O.D. guide boss.
IMO, there is no way to avoid cutting the inner guide boss when machining the spring pockets for larger O.D. valve springs.
As I recall, the machinist may not have used the Comp Cams 614 +.050" valve locks on the exhaust valves. I gave him a set to use if he needed them after eliminating the exhaust valve rotators. I recorded most of the engine assembly data on my computer for future reference in case my memory fails me.
Manley Budget Series valves have .250" tips (exhaust) and .290" tips (intake).
Manley Race Master Series valves that I used have .290" tips (intake and exhaust) and all are machined with a 45* face and a 30* back angle.
Manley Race Master Series valves cost twice as much as Ferrea 5000 Series valves. However, you must buy Ferrea 5000 Series valves for a Ford 351W with .395" tips (corrected from my previous post) . I started to buy the Ferrea 5000 Series Ford 351W valves but I did not like .395" tip length.
1 Attachment(s)
It may make some food for thought, but I don't think it will solve your problem.
I noticed that the top of the seven degree retainer seems to be higher than the top of the seven degree locks(on the left in the pic), vrs the same dimension using the ten degree locks/retainers on the right.
However it also seems that the 10* locks are closer to the tip of the valve like the +0.050" standard locks do, so no benefit.
You might look at the locks that have the recess for lash caps(pn611,or614). They might help? I don't know if you can run them without the caps? Probably not a good idea.
Personally I would use the standard 7* locks, and machine the top of the guides down about .070", and live with the increased seat load(email@example.com" vrs firstname.lastname@example.com" installed height). I assume your using the roller cam/lifters the springs are designed for. If you consider that the conventional springs for roller cams typically use more force to control the valvetrain(seat load and over the nose) than behives do, your not hurting the valves, lifters, or cam IMO. Also if you may consider that many people install 1.6:1 rockers which increase the load on the valvetrain similar to increased spring pressure, but use the same springs as if they were 1.5:1 rockers, and have no detrimental effects. JMHO
I suggested Comp Cams 10* Super Locks for lash caps to gain a little clearance for the self adjusting rocker rails. I bought a set of those locks and trial fitted them with a rocker arm, valve and 10* retainer and did not gain enough clearance, even with the 10* locks and retainers which are wider than the 7* locks and retainers. I decided to purchase, prepare and install a set of Manley valves with .290" tips, even though they are about twice the cost of Ferrea valves. BTW, my engine builder used Comp Cams 795 10* retainers and Comp Cams 613 10* locks. I called him at home and he said he did not use the +.050" locks. He said he shimmed the exhaust valve springs enough to eliminate the valve rotators without using +.050" locks. All valves have 1.750" height and the train works perfect.
Comp Cams 26918 beehive springs
Comp Cams 795 retainers 10*
Comp Cams 613 locks, 10*
Scorpion 1073BL rocker arms, 1.5:1 self self aligning, narrow body.
ARP 134-7104 rocker studs, 3/8"-24 x 7/16"-14 with Time Serts.
Alex's Parts shims, 1.255" O.D. x .875" I.D. hardened
Comp Cams 7940 push rods, 7.200" chromemoly, .080" wall
Comp Cams 15850 hyd. roller lifters, REM finish, short travel, .005" pre-load.
When I was trying to determine what valves to use, I finally called Ferrea and their representative suggested using the Ferrea Ford 351W valves with .395" tips. I am sure those would provide more rocker arm clearance than necessary but I thought the extra long tips may cause a problem with the rocker arm, rocker stud and push rod geometry. I purchased Manley Vortec valves with .290" tips. I believe those valves were designed with self-aligning rocker arms in mind.
I used Crane machined steel +.050 locks (look a bit beefier than the stockers) and most are flush with the retainer. A couple locks are even a tad higher than the retainer( probably not even measurable). I just remembered I have a set of bad vortecs(cracked) laying around. I'll see if I can use the valves from the bad set. They have about 240,000 miles on 'em, but mavbe they'll clean up. I'll measure the rest of my valve tips and make sure that's the issue. I appreciate all the input guys.
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text:
Dose anyone have specs on Winchester Ranger JHP in 40. Not the SXT. Mine came in a brass casings but I've seen them in silver. Are their any difference's. I got a box of 50 for 15 bucks and tossed the box before reading it. I think their
165gr. Any info would be helpful. They kick like a mule compared to 180gr Winchester white box.


text:
Posted by Rachel Dines on October 26, 2010
"Are you on the business side or the IT side?" was a question I received maybe a half dozen times last month while I was attending the Disaster Recovery Journal Fall World in San Diego. This question really got me thinking—everyone at the conference worked in business continuity (BC) and/or disaster recovery (DR), but there was a definite divide between those who reported into IT departments and those who reported into the business. For the most part, these divisions fell along the lines of those who reported into IT had a DR focus and those who reported into the business (or perhaps into security and risk) had a BC focus. Attending the different breakout sessions across both domains I noted the good news: both groups speak the same language: RTO, RPO, availability, downtime, resilience, etc. The bad news is that I'm not sure we're all using the same dictionary.
Two of the business-focused sessions I attended pointed out a troubling difference in the way IT and the business interpret one of the simplest of BC/DR terms: RTO. What is RTO? Simply put, it is the time to recover a service after an outage. This seems straightforward enough, but let's breaks out how a business and an IT professional might understand RTO:


text: $1000 buys the same amount of stuff for me as it does for Stack. He just has more thousands, and thus, more nice stuff. Bottom line, this sets a dangerous precedent if the NBA can fine with what is basically, reckless abandon. The fines are a big sticking point for the players union. It's one thing to screw the players around. It's another thing to start clawing back their earnings.


text:
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In episode 32 of This Week in Virology, hosts Vincent Racaniello, Alan Dove and guest Raul Rabadan converse about polio survivors in iron lungs, bocavirus, structure of mimivirus, and genome sequence analysis of influenza H1N1 viruses.
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Death of Marsha Mason, who lived 60 years in an iron lung
First discovery of bocavirus in human stool
Structural studies of the giant mimivirus
Pandemic potential of H1N1 influenza virus
Was swine flu a lab accident? Bloomberg and NY Times articles
Hong Kong virologist says new H1N1 strain is 'unstable'
Article by John Barry on site of origin of 1918 influenza
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text:
have you ever slept-walked
have you ever slept-walked
I'm Dreaming of a White Christmas
yes, once
have you ever talked in your sleep?
almost never...sleep-walking and talking were my husband's specialty.
Have you ever awakened from a dream and wondered if it really happened?
have you ever had mice in your home? (not as pets)
no never
same question back?
Yes - they come in when my husband leaves the garage door open!!! Yuck!
Have you ever been snowed in for Christmas
I'm Dreaming of a White Christmas
had lots of snow OM but never snowed in..
have you ever forgotten your pin number..
have you ever run out of gas?
no never..i have oil..
have you ever run out of milk


text:
Jeff Coffin of the Dave Matthews Band has called Utah's Crescent Super Band the best youth Great American Songbook band in the world.
So it makes sense that the band has been invited to headline a concert in one of the best venues in the world: Carnegie Hall. Now, the musicians need a little help from their Utah friends to make it to the Big Apple.
With $100,000 already pledged, the band, based in American Fork, is seeking $200,000 more to cover travel and expenses so it can play at the famed New York City music venue on May 21, said Caleb Chapman, band director.
The band doesn't want these tax-deductible donations to go unacknowledged, so the 23-member ensemble's eighth full-length album, "A Crescent Christmas," will be available at local stores and online. For each $20 CD, $13 will go directly to the young musicians, said Gaylen Rust, head of R Legacy Entertainment, which is releasing the album on its label. "When they hear the music, it's worth every penny," Rust said.
While they hope local music fans will buy the albums, Rust and Chapman suggest the music would be good stocking stuffers for Utah businesses and corporations.
Sam Bennett, 17, of Magna's Cyprus High School, plays trombone in the band. He said his idol, the late Buddy Rich, once played on the stage of Carnegie Hall, along with "the biggest bands we've heard of." "To play on the same stage as him is a dream come true," Bennett said.
The high tab for travel expenses also includes about 50 other young Utah musicians who will open for the Crescent Super Band: the Voodoo Orchestra (performing jump swing and rockabilly) and La Onda Caribena (Latin and salsa music), both led by Chapman.
Chapman launched the Crescent Super Band in 2001, and its high-school-aged instrumentalists and singers come from as far south as Cedar City and as far north as Davis County for rehearsals and performances.
Dreaming of a new holiday classic
The Crescent Super Band's new album, "A Crescent Christmas," will be released Nov. 9. It can be ordered at www.legacymusicalliance.org.


text: I find an aggressive dog, anywhere, and it takes after me, or mine, it will be its last act. Like KathyP I pack heat and will use. Dogs that attack other animals are just a split second from attacking a person. 150 grains of cure is worth a pound of prevention.


text:
People using assistive technologies and their families and caregivers can access information and support from a variety of organizations, including the following:
Additional sources of information about services and support are listed in the Resources section of this health topic.
« How does the technology help?
All related topics
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Your Account
For those of you who develop standalone Windows applications for PCs and other devices, Microsoft's .NET Windows Forms provide a much better way to get it done. This new technology gives you more power and flexibility for a fraction of the effort compared to classic Win32 development, with a streamlined programming model that deals automatically with many tedious details that once plagued developers.As with most things .NET, the only hitch is the learning curve. But that's where acclaimed author Jesse Liberty makes the difference with Programming .NET Windows Applications. With this tutorial, you will explore all aspects of using .NET Windows Forms class libraries and the associated programming tools in Visual Studio .NET, enabling you to build applications for the Windows 9x, Windows 2000 and Windows XP desktop platforms. Step-by-step, you'll learn ways to design applications that either function alone on a PC, or work in combination with your web-based application server to take advantage of the richer interface and higher level of security.The book also explains how your new Windows applications can sidestep problems that used to arise from the use of DLLs (known collectively as "DLL hell"), and how .NET Windows Forms can be used as an alternative to ASP.NET and browser-based approaches for building web application clients.Jesse Liberty definitely knows his stuff when it comes to the .NET platform. As the author of O'Reilly's Programming C# and Learning Visual Basic .NET, he's well-known for his clear and concise style that prompted one reviewer to say, "It's as if he knows exactly what questions I'm going to ask ahead of time." Jesse also co-authored Programming ASP.NET with contract programmer Dan Hurwitz, and now the two have teamed up again to bring you this comprehensive tutorial--without a doubt, the best source available for learning how to program with .NET Windows Forms.
Jesse Liberty is the best selling author of Programming ASP.NET, Programming C#, and a dozen other books on web and object oriented programming. He is president of Liberty Associates, Inc., where he provides contract programming, consulting and on-site training in ASP.NET, C#, C++ and related topics. Jesse has been a Distinguished Software Engineer at AT&T and Vice President for technology development at CitiBank.
View Jesse Liberty's full profile page.
Dan Hurwitz is the president of Sterling Solutions, Inc., where for nearly two decades he has been providing contract programming and database development to a wide variety of clients.
View Dan Hurwitz's full profile page.
Our look is the result of reader comments, our own experimentation, and feedback from distribution channels. Distinctive covers complement our distinctive approach to technical topics, breathing personality and life into potentially dry subjects. The animal on the cover of Programming .NET Windows Applications is a darter. The darter is so named because it attacks its prey with a quick thrust of its long neck and sharp beak (effectively stabbing its victim), moving in a "darting" motion. The darter is also sometimes known as the snake bird, because its swimming style consists of submerging its entire body, except for its head and long neck, under water. This behavior gives the darter the appearance of a snake.The darter is native to the southern United States, as well as to parts of Asia, Africa, and Australia. It lives alone or in groups of two or three near freshwater lakes, rivers, ponds, and swamps. Its main food is fish, and it supplements this diet with insects and reptiles. Mary Brady was the production editor, and Ann Schirmer was the copyeditor for Programming .NET Windows Applications. Mary Brady, Phil Dangler, and Sarah Sherman proofread the book. Matt Hutchinson, Colleen Gorman, and Claire Cloutier provided quality control. Tom Dinse and Johnna Van Hoose Dinse wrote the index. Jamie Peppard, James Quill, Marlowe Shaeffer, and Derek Di Matteo provided production support.Ellie Volckhausen designed the cover of this book, based on a series design by Edie Freedman. The cover image is a 19th-century engraving from the Dover Pictorial Archive. Emma Colby produced the cover layout with QuarkXPress 4.1 using Adobe's ITC Garamond font.David Futato designed the interior layout. This book was converted by Andrew Savikas to FrameMaker 5.5.6 with a format conversion tool created by Erik Ray, Jason McIntosh, Neil Walls, and Mike Sierra that uses Perl and XML technologies. The text font is Linotype Birka; the heading font is Adobe Myriad Condensed; and the code font is LucasFont's TheSans Mono Condensed. The illustrations that appear in the book were produced by Robert Romano and Jessamyn Read using Macromedia FreeHand 9 and Adobe Photoshop 6. The tip and warning icons were drawn by Christopher Bing. This colophon was written by Mary Brady.
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For Windows Net App's this is the Book!
By Excel_Nightmare
from UK
About Me A 59 Year Old Novice
Best Uses
Comments about oreilly Programming .NET Windows Applications:
At 59 years old & retired I now had time on my hands to do something I had always wanted to do, but never had the time before - Computer programming!So, as one does, not knowing alot about C# programming I purchased a few books on the subject; then another and another hoping to find a book that's style I could relate to.Most of the books I purchased concentrated on console development but I wanted to write Windows Applications.Well, to cut a long story short, having purchased over 50 books on the subject and having searched through them all one night - to find a specific answer to a programming problem I had,and couldn't find, I scanned the internets online books stores and and discovered "O'Reilly's - Programming .Net Windows Applications by Jesse Liberty & Dan Hurwitz". I ordered it straight away and no sooner than it had arrived on my doorstep - I opened it and there was the answer to my problem!Upon further reading it was great to see little snippets of C# code (that the majority of programming books have as samples) but larger ones as well, enabling me to see exactly where those little snippets (samples)of coding actual go, in relation to to the over all scheme of things. Something the majority of other books I had purchased did not do, expecting you to fit all the small code snippets (Samples) together like a jig Saw puzzle to eventual make a program (Frustrating to say the least). I have no doubt that the other books will prove very useful to me in the future as my programming skills develop and are , no doubt good books too, but for now "Programming .NET Windows Applications" is the one for me!It's an excellant, well written book with both C# & Visual Basic examples, that is perfect, for both the beginner (like me) or the more advanced programmers amongst us - having easy to understand text & Code samples.
Bottom Line Yes, I would recommend this to a friend
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(3 of 3 customers found this review helpful)
Programming .NET Windows Applications
By FANUG
from Undisclosed
This comprehensive book weighs in at over 1000 pages providing Windows application developers with a thorough coverage of topics from getting started all the way through to deployment. Examples are provided in both C# and VB.NET so readers can follow along with their preferred language. Helpful tips and traps information is provided throughout the book which could save you a lot of hair-pulling and muttering to yourself "Why doesn't this work?" The content is well-organized and clearly written. The really good news is that you can have your content and read it too since the print is very crisp on bright white pages and the screen shots are also clearly visible. On the downside, there are some minor errata which the reader will be able to easily spot. Also adding a bit of humor sprinkled here and there would help the reader to get through this weighty tome. Overall, I would recommend this book if you are starting to develop .NET Windows applications or if you are looking to expand your knowledge in this area.
Another Great book from Jesse liberty
By Abdulmotalep
from LIBYA
Realy , it's great book , the book covers All .net technology Features in windows application .I advise every one who want to learn programming windows applications to Buy this book.
A .net Developers Bible
By EvilGuru
This book has to be the best and most definitive books on windows forms around, it covers every aspect of building a windows application with a large focus on the layout (windows forms) and event handlers. The code examples are for both VB.net and C#, while it was made for .net 1.1 almost all of the examples work fine with C# 2 (.net 2), with the only differences being in how they look (the new .net 2 apps have an office 2003 style theme). This is the .net equivalent of "Programming Windows" by Charles Petzold. It is a bit long, however it does cover two languages, as well as most of the extensive range of form controls.
© 2016, O'Reilly Media, Inc.
(707) 827-7019(800) 889-8969
All trademarks and registered trademarks appearing on oreilly.com are the property of their respective owners.


text: VMY144SR-JHR Meeting Incentive Conference & Exhibition (Endau-Rompin Peta) Johor National Park Johor TOUR INCLUDESAccommodation: 2 nights stay at family chalet, dormitory or visitor complexTransport: Return transfer from Kahang office to Endau Rompin Johor National Park (ERJNP)Meals: Breakfast, lunch, dinnerActivities: Indoor activities, trekking and etcNotes:• Min 20 persons and max 100 persons• Facilities will be prepared by ERJNP• All additional activity are excludes, please request and will be add-on refer to the possibility.• Advance booking required.• Deposit required upon confirm booking. Contact Information Executive Travel & Tours (M) Sdn. Bhd. 50B, Ground Floor Bangunan KPMNJ, Jalan Segget, 80000 Johor Bahru Johor 07- 224 0063 07- 224 9482 firstname.lastname@example.com


text: Alright, so how about a block of wood through the rear wheel to keep it from turning, then just unbolting the center clutch basket bolt? I guess that's not too difficult... I just don't want to have to buy a clutch tool I may only use once or twice. I have an old-school torque wrench that will get it back to about 36 ft/lbs, give or take... ten, lol.


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a place for zinesters - writers and readers
Views: 29
The only rule I've ever wanted in this place is one restricting people talking about what they're GONNA do. Do it first, THEN tell us about it.
And work on your grammar ..."keep the conversation?" Zinesters like Giz get away with that 'cause English is their second language...but you're from Alabama. I'd bet the farm you ain't French.


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|Topic Review (Newest First)
|No one could have said it any better than that.Alot of poeple talk about this swap and in most of the cases i have seen, it just makes a mess of a good project vehicle. Just my opinion sorry if i hurt anyones feelings.
I don't think the wheelbase is going to be the problem. It's the width of the track that is your big problem here. Probably not so much in the rear but almost definitely in the front.
Swapping frames is a big job, no matter what anyone says. Some are easier than others but nonetheless it is a big job. People seem to think they are saving time and money because you can just bolt an engine and trans in and you have modern brakes and suspension inherent with the swap. However a lot of people forget that in order to do it right you have to rebuild the suspension and brakes anyway. Not to mention the probability that the floor of the body will have to be modified etc.
Things to consider... when swapping frames there will be a significant amount of work involved to mount the body and front sheet metal properly. Also the choice of a donor car is very important for things like wheelbase and width. Nothing looks as bad as a 30's or 40's car with the tires sticking out of the fenders. Unless of course you're from East LA.
If the frame on your car is in decent shape and not hacked up by a previous owner I would suggest you go with an aftermarket front suspension and a leaf spring rear suspension. That would probably be the easiest for someone who has never done something like this before. Of course it depends on what you intend to use the car for, but if you're building a driver that is what I would recommend.
You also have the option of installing a front clip. A Nova clip would probably fit your tires inside the fenders without any weird wheel backspacing and would be relatively simple to install. But... and it's a big but... a lot of care should be used when installing a clip. It is much easier to screw it up than most people think and for heaven's sake if your not an experienced welder, have one do the welding for you. Your safety as well as the safety of everyone else on the road depends on it.
You're going to get a lot of suggestions and there are a lot of schools of thought on this subject so I'll get down off my soapbox now.
chasis swap
im thinking of putting a 68 chevelle chasis on a 40 plymouth coupe. the chevelle has a 327/350
10 bolt.
OR should i just leave the plymouth chasis and incorporate the chevelle parts to it? will the suspension on the plymouth be adequate?
the wb on the plymouth is 118
the chevelle is 115
any advice is greatly appreciated.
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Getting Remediation Right: New Insights from California
Dec 18, 2013
By Julie Strawn
Along with college costs, helping underprepared students succeed in college is arguably the most important issue facing higher education. Given changing demographics, America's future global competitiveness and the prosperity of our families and communities depend on finding a solution. Two recent reports from California's LearningWorks—a nonprofit founded by community college leaders and faculty, researchers, and policy experts—shed new light on the nuts and bolts of effective remediation reform and how it can help more disadvantaged students graduate.
One report focuses on a reform strategy with promising results: accelerated learning for students needing remediation. Toward a Vision of Accelerated Curriculum & Pedagogy: High Challenge, High Support Classrooms for Underprepared Students identifies core principles and practices essential for effectively teaching accelerated English and math. The authors reject two common myths: that acceleration means simply teaching the same material in the same way, only faster—leaving some students behind; or that acceleration requires "dumbing down" the curriculum so that more students can complete remediation more quickly. Instead, they argue, effective acceleration entails letting remedial students get to college-level content, skills, and reasoning faster—asking them to think about big questions on topics that matter—while helping them master basic building blocks along the way. This is the opposite of how literacy and math remediation works now, with students stuck learning basic literacy and match processes for long stretches before being allowed to apply those skills.
For the second report, Changing Equations: How Community Colleges are Re-thinking College Readiness in Math, the author interviewed community college researchers and practitioners to explore why colleges and college systems are overhauling remedial math, what reforms they're adopting, what results they're getting, and what other colleges and states can learn from their experience. The why of reform isn't hard to grasp: just one out of five students placed into remedial math ultimately complete remediation and go on to pass a college-level math course; further, the three college courses with the lowest rates of success nationally are all remedial math courses.
Many experts have concluded that the current high school and college math pathway, which emphasizes mastery of algebra in preparation for calculus, doesn't make sense given that 80 percent of college students don't ever take calculus because their majors don't require it. Increasingly community college researchers and practitioners advocate for customizing math requirements to competencies needed for a student's college and career pathway, which might demand statistics, probability or quantitative reasoning rather than algebra or calculus. Another change colleges and state systems are experimenting with is keeping the standard curriculum but change course sequences or instruction, through compressed courses, modularized courses, contextualized courses, and non-academic supports. Yet a third set of reforms tackles how students are assessed and placed into remediation, and involve new placement tests and/or new placement policies.
The report highlights examples of these reforms in various colleges and states. These include Carnegie Foundation pilots of alternative math sequences called Statway and Quantway in 11 states; the California Acceleration Project's support for implementation statistics-oriented pathways in 21 colleges; the New Mathways Project in Texas; and, statewide modularized curriculum reforms in North Carolina and Virginia connected to student pathways.
Both of these reports are welcome antidotes to tired debates about which students are "college material" and recognize that far more students can be successful than they are now, if we stop relegating them to what one reformer, Mathematician Uri Treisman of the University of Texas-Austin, calls the "burial ground" for traditional college remediation.


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Well started 2 1/2 Year old Black Lab male out of solid pointing stock. Blue will sit-stay and come, is FF and CC. Delivers live birds and dummies to hand. He is steady at the line. Does triples on water and land. He is started on hand signals and blind retrieves. Loves water and has been shot around. Pictures and pedigree upon request. I have hunted Blue on placed birds and wild birds in South Dakota and he has been very productive and is showing willingness to point. $2000.00
Located in Sidney, Ohio, Call 937-497-7218 or e-mail


text:
Green Bay Career
2014-15 Season
Finished with second-best 18-hole average on the team at 81.6 ... Tied for team lead with four top-ten finishes ... Recorded best finish at Jaguar-Crusader Invite (4/17-18) where she placed 2nd ... Finished T10 with teammate Avery Steen at Horizon League Championship (4/24-26).
2013-14 Season
Finished season with three top-ten finishes ... Had best finish at UIC (9/14) by placing T3 with teammate Sammi Grunder ... Recorded season-best round of 18 score of 78 at IPFW Spring Classic (4/6-7).
High School Career
2012 medalist at the West Bend Country Club as a member of the boy's golf team