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|Topic Review (Newest First)
Re: bareboat charter with our 1 year old - sleep advice
Well... I guess or sailing approach with Maddie depends on who is with us, where we are and the weather / condition of the seas. More often than not, if Im doing aggressive, maximum speed, race style sailing, Im with buddies and Maddie isnt there. If she is with us, tacks are mild and few and were usually cruising without heavy healing.
Same here. The benefit of being in LA means Maddie eats everything and can sleep thru city noise.
Re: bareboat charter with our 1 year old - sleep advice
Here is my feedback after a couple months with our 14 month old in the new boat. She is also a runner/climber and hates to be restricted. We were using the pack and play on the dinette while sailing, but she discovered this weekend that while on a starboard tack, it leans the pack and play enough that she can climb out! We just caught her in time before she took a dive onto the port settee. So, pack and play is now out and we are going to run a jack line and harness her in when in the cockpit. Down below we are just child proofing and letting her run a bit free. The car seat is a non starter as she wants to be mobile. For some reason she loves it in the car, but not in the boat.
For sleeping, we were able to fix up the vberth for her and her sister so that it works great but it is our boat and we could modify it. I am interested in what other ideas folks have as we may be doing a charter this winter ourselves and ideas sure help.
Re: bareboat charter with our 1 year old - sleep advice
Oh I forgot to ask if anyone or you ra ra Rasputin bother with the toddler car seat? That might work too rigged while under sail but wondering if we should bother.
Re: bareboat charter with our 1 year old - sleep advice
Awesom!!! So you harness her and watch her in the cockpit while under sail but when on the lines (coming into the anchorage I assume or while tacking) you put her in the pack n play down in the saloon? It was soooo much easier when Chiara fit in the infant car seat!! That thing was like a padded room! We lashed ours on each side to the rails down below so we could see her while we sailed. About the pack in play while under sail aren't you concerned about Maddie moving about when on a big heal or tacking?
She eats what we eat but not at the same time. I guess we can just modfy that though. We are lucky too once she's out she's out until 12 hours later. Must be living in NYC that trained her not even a jackhammer on the street could wake her up during a stroller nap!! I'm hoping we sail again in Dec. Every few months there are a new set of challenges.
Re: bareboat charter with our 1 year old - sleep advice
Since we feed her around 5 ish to 6 ish and she generally eats what we eat, we've adjusted to all eat at the same time. All that to say the galley and salon table are free and avaialble until it's bed time. She goes down around 7:30 ish. Futzing with the table and pack & play crib isn't optimal but works. Over the warm summer, once she's down, we retire to the cockpit, outside aft deck chairs or rear main cabin. She sleeps well and once "out", it takes some real noise or jostling to wake her. Light background music outside and calm chatter isnt generally enough to rile her. (Maybe were lucky?)
Maddie is our only child so that certainly makes things easier. Now, the boat, moorings and yacht club culture is old hat. Her first trip to Catalina was at 4 months. We practiced slip sailing a couple times prior. Wed wedge her car seat between the far end of the salon table and seat back so there was nowhere for it to go. We watch her like a hawk in and out and use one of those kiddie harness leash things that looks like a panda back-pack with a long tail to secure her to the binnacle while mom and I grab mooring lines. When she was smaller, we would sit her in the car seat or pack and play.
Re: bareboat charter with our 1 year old - sleep advice
CD, we did the July trip but heading out again in Dec hopefully. Now we have a runner/climber and she's too big for the infant car seat where we would bukcle her into underway and she would sleep half the time sailing. Any tips for under way and how to nap them safely would be helpful. I don't see us putting her in a pack n play on the saloon bed while underway. Is that what people do? Our lo's nap is mandatory but we can't just stop sailing for it given we usually need the full day or half day to get to our destinations every day.
Re: bareboat charter with our 1 year old - sleep advice
Thanks rasputin! We've taken our lo (now 14mths) bareboat twice in the BVI at 4 months and the Grenadines at 12 months. We stuck the Phil and Ted's in one of the cabins. Our issue was that she crashes at 7pm but we need the galley for cooking in addition to the bbqing we do in the cockpit. On the charters there aren't usually curtains on all the windows in the saloon or galley which would trigger too early wake up for our lo too.
When your low was going to bed each evening in the saloon how did you manage for dinners? When we charter our style is we keep all the fun on the boat. We are going again in Dec. We manage to get away from our ft jobs and sail 4x a year more or less so we hope that's good enough for our lo to grow up sailing. When your lo hit walking/running/climbing and tips while under sail and then on anchor? We never stay on a slip. Ours started at 13 mths so next trip will be a whole new experience - for fun and safety measures. All tips are welcome!!! Apologies for any typos!!
Re: bareboat charter with our 1 year old - sleep advice
We're on the West Coast (Los Angeles). We have a (now) 19 month old little girl. In 19 months she's been to Catalina Island 9 times, Mexico once, on various other cruises up and down the California coast and countless "slip sail" nights. We drop out salon table which levels with the salon seats. The back cushions then cover the table. In that queen sized space generally meant for sleeping extra sailors, we break out the pack and play crib on top. It's stable and is the only spot for something that large. Our cockpit is a good distance from the main salon area and admittedly we do have a rear state room that we retire to away from the baby so late television or otherwise does not disturb her early bed time. It's works for us and our girl. She loves sleeping on the boat. "Boat" was one of her first words.
Re: bareboat charter with our 1 year old - sleep advice
Originally Posted by 3peas View Post
I've read all the excellent tips from Cruisingdad and the others. Since we bareboat charter we can't rig much into the berths. Our concern is how do we have our babe sleep aboard nights at anchor without rolling off the bed. She's the baby that does the circuit in her crib throughout the night in her sleep. No corner goes unsnuggled! Pillows are too dangerous for the same reason we don't keep them in our crib. We've chartered a ton of 40ft beneteaus and jenneaus that we should know but I just can't visulaize it. Do you experts out there think a light travel crib like the Baby Bjorn would work standing up in a berth? Are there other practical solutions for sleeping for a baby that moves but doesn't get the concept of the "cliff" edge of the bed just yet?
We'll nap her in her car seat. That worked wonderfully our last sail with her. For the others sailing with a 4/5mth and under we used the Rest Assured infant travel bassinet (cosleeper) in between us or on the floor for night time which folds and carries and has a built in white noise box and night light. And for under sail, the car seat lodged into the floor space in the v berth with some deck cushions. I also nursed down there, no pfd, under long 5 hour sails. We also used our Ergo and Baby Bjorn carriers for sleeping or hanging out while in the cockpit
Re: bareboat charter with our 1 year old - sleep advice
I realize this is a month old, I'm a new user, current powerboater, and new sailor. So, keeping that in mind, here is my input.
We had the same issue with our now 14 month old. Our V-Berth where he sleeps is quite high and we were wondering about him falling off.
We found, and have been using a "Pea-Pod" for the last few months. And it works great! Its a small tent, all mesh, with a built in air mattress that slides into a pocket underneath. The zippers are on the outside so he can't figure them out. It has worked well for us.
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Some 17 million immigrants passed through Ellis Island between 1892 and 1924, but those "huddled masses yearning to breathe free" are far outnumbered by their millions of descendants logging on to the Ellis Island Web site to look for them. Since the site <www.ellisisland.org> launched in April 2001, it's recorded more than 2.5 billion hits, and 60,000 users visit every day.
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sorry for the delay
sorry for the delay
Last edited by dave coles; 04-05-2009 at 11:40 AM.
It took Carlson's 24 hrs to post the Kent Open Results after the comp,and now
Marc Walder and Dave Coles have raised the game once again by getting the ESSEX OPEN RESULTS posted the same day as the comp.
As UKBJJ grows we must all grow with it and realise that students paying to fight expect to see comprehensive results and to finish on time with a
fighting schedule in place.
Marc and Dave,thankyou-you've proved it can be done.
Did anyone catch wallid's match on film, I was told he had a good tussle would be good to see?
Well done on getting those results up so quick
Celtic Pride Martial Arts, Abertillery, Gwent
Brazilian Jiu Jitsu
Thai Boxing
Mixed Martial Arts
The competitor list was given to me in an Excel spreadsheet by Marc walders BJJ student Meg, who was responsible for the highly efficient online registration system. From this organising the brackets was a 'copy & paste' heaven.
Using a laptop at the event, one of my students spent about 20 minutes putting the number 1, 2, or 3 next to the gold, silver and bronze medallist in each category. A couple of clicks later, the results were done and Marc was able to announce the winners of the team trophy.
Had we had wireless connection at the venue the results would have been posted up at 5.00pm on the day - maybe it's a thought for next time
As an additional note, in an attempt to make the event even better next year, the organisers of the Essex Open are sending out an online questionnaire to all the competitors asking for their feedback on the event.
Competitors and Spectators = Customers, and we are looking to provide the best service we can.
Man in Rio there is a say, "if Colesy do bracket you gonna be home for tea"


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|Topic Review (Newest First)
Re: Full Keel Vs. Fin or Modified Full Keel
wow, um im an old sailor, too much detail, thank you, but i am confused. um i have a ericson26, with a short mast, keel i think is a fin and im going to sail her in the pacific. mostly with the wind (downwind), im a liveaboard. I have sailed a homemade square jig from maine to FL and back on a 23' wodden sail. not too big on education. ill figure it out as i go. or die, so im tring to figure out how bad i am going to rock n roll out there. i know she wanders a lot sitting at anchor in the bay, at ruff seas, and the wakes from other lovely boaters are mild. i only travel downwind (i like it slow) .
so what am i looking at .. strap everything down n hold on, or kiss my but goodbye or my coffee cup might fall over???
Re: Full Keel Vs. Fin or Modified Full Keel
I am not sure whether you are talking about rolling in a short chop taken abeam or larger breaking waves. In either case, it depends on the specific design of the boat, its loading, and the shape of the wave in question. In a chop abeam, there will be situations were each type would be superior but a long keel with cut away forefoot would generally be worse in all cases. Iin a large, breaking wave taken abeam, except a long keel with cut away forefoot, the reality is that each keel type has benefits and liabilities.
The case is often made that a full keel is safer in a roll situation since it is typically shallower than most other keel types and so experiences less wave surface sheer forces (the force that results from the difference in speed between the water on the surface of the wave and in the center of the wave). But full keels generally have a lot of side area and does not stall so that area tends to generate a lot more rolling force even if the wave sheer speed difference is smaller. Typically full keel boats have smaller form stability so they have less force trying to initially roll them into conformance with the wave face (good) but that same lack of form stability means that there is less force trying to right them in the trough (bad). Traditional full keel boats tend to have large roll moments of intertia which resists rolling the boat at the start of the incident (good), but which may tend to cause them to continue rolling at the trough (bad) and since the roll moment of interia often comes from heavy spars, that tendency gets amplified (bad).
Probably the best choice in a large breaking wave taken abeam would be a keel-centerboarder with the board up. It would have a shallow keel and so would experience the least wave surface sheer, and has a small side area so the combined side forces would be smaller as well.
The deeper fin typically has a lower vertical center of gravity and a smaller area working in its favor. But being deeper the fin keel is exposed to a greater speed difference between the wave face and bottom of the keel due to sheering of the wave face. Mitigating against that higher speed is the tendency of deep fins to stall at large angles of attack which by definition a wave abeam would be. Then there is role of roll moment of inertia. Fin keels especially with a bulb when combined with the typically taller rig on a modern design produces proportionately high roll moments of inertia which would initially minimize the induced roll angle.
Probably the worst option is a long keel with cut away forefoot and an attached rudder is the worst option being deeper than a full keel but unable to stall as easy as a deep fin, and with a higher vertical center of gravity. All bad...
Re: Full Keel Vs. Fin or Modified Full Keel
can any one tell me what is better for rolling in ruff seas? full or fin? and why?
Re: Full Keel Vs. Fin or Modified Full Keel
Thanks Wandering ...I think she's real pretty...that's important to me with boats...but they also got to be sea-kindly and safe as you also said...I think she is neither at the moment to be honest but I see alot of potential...gonna take alot of work but it should be worth it...I feel lucky to have her...she's gonna be a looker when I am done with her hopefully...and also strong and seaworthy as I can make her with my modest income...most of it is just plain elbow grease and a few bucks here and there...rustoleum oil enamel laid on with a good quality brush after a coat with a roller is good enough for me....painting hull is gonna be harder but same as above...the bottom job is gonna set me back though with a boat this size...I need to start savin now... her mast and standing rigging is good...or at least what I've seen near the decks..
Re: Full Keel Vs. Fin or Modified Full Keel
And she'll be safe and comfortable. And people will remark on her beauty.
Re: Full Keel Vs. Fin or Modified Full Keel
I am looking forward to seeing what my (new) old CCA battle-wagon can do with her sails and some wind....'66 Morgan-designed Columbia 40.....low freeboard, more than adequate cabin room/storage, narrow sea-slicing 10.5 foot beam, slow-dispensing reserve bouyancy at the ends with her overhangs ...3/4 full keel..she's 18,200 lbs gross disp. with 8,400 lbs lead...and a 9-foot centerboard that raises to give 4 and a half draft....diesel is slung low under salon sole...under tow the other day in 15 mph winds in mid-river she rode like the Rock of Gibraltar...Lot's of work to do on her mind you....she's old and there's lots to replace/upgrade...decks need re-enforcemnt and corework needs to be finished...hull-to-deck joint needs further inspection but no sign of leaks yet...should be the same joint as on my '66 Columbia 29...same factory..
Overall...I ain't got time on no Open 40's or open 60's certainly...but we'll take chances with what we gots...and with a still respectable theoretical speed 7.17 knots ...so I am a knot slower than other 40-footers of alot newer design...but If I never go anywhere I aint gonna spill my drink at anchor until it starts blowin into the 40 knot range she's so solid...and when I do go somewhere...crew fatigue is going to be less...especially if that crew is just me...or one another person.
Re: Full Keel Vs. Fin or Modified Full Keel
One point that I have not seen in this discussion regarding keel hung rudders is that when close-hauled and with just the right touch of weather helm, the keel-rudder system is now an asymmetric hydro-foil giving lift to windward even if the hull is going straight ahead through the water. The modern fin-keeler with separate spade or skeg-hung rudder does not have this advantage and in order to generate lift from the fin-keel the entire boat, fin-keel and hull, has to go a bit sideways through the water.
As to performance, I sailed an IOD, with what might be the classic example of what Jeff H calls the "worst of all possible worlds," and it went to weather like a witch. I plotted courses over the ground in many passages of an upwind course and the average angle between legs was 78 degrees. Note that this is not "tacking angle" or "pointing angle" but the angle between the actual courses on successive Port and Starboard tacks made by the boat over the ground. Generally no tidal current and averaged over many different days and conditions.
Does anyone have actual data on similar performance with one of the modern designs?
Incidentally, the IOD with a 25' lwl would also overhaul Cal 40's downwind as well.
Point taken
Hi again Jeff,
First the british tax system ... this can be summed up in a few words. Squeeze them like lemons. I could probably use all my tax demands as sufficient ballast if I had kept them all!
Second, I am not committed to my crazy idea as yet, just wanted to kick it around and see if anyone else had done anything like it.
Third - dismasted several times? You are not really Sinbad the Sailor in disguise are you? Only joking my friend.
Fourth and last. Great idea. Why dont I launch her as she is without the mast and rigging and drive around for a bit and see what she handles like. Why couldn't I think of that.
Cheers buddy
I have been on several dismasted sailboats over the years. The most graphic memory was when my folkboat lost its rig. We could not get around even crawling on the deck. I ultimately had to lie on my belly and move about holding on to stay aboard. A fully rigged folkboat has about as sweet a motion as any 25 footer that I have ever encountered.
I have also heard of bigger boats converted to trawler yachts but again the owners have done pretty extensive mods (bilge keels) to make the manageable. Properly closing up the cut offs or bolt holes, fabricating a shortened rudder etc will involve quite a bit of epoxy and buying a used powerboat has to be extremely less work than making the mod's even if you had to depend of family volunteers to scout out a worthwhile candidate.
I realize that an older boat with blown out sails have very little value, but the same boat modified as you suggest has negative value since someone will need to chainsaw it and take it to the dump when you are done with her. I don't know British tax laws but in the States you can also donate a boat for tax credits and that may permit you to buy a small power boat.
If you absolutely have your heart set on doing this. I would suggest that you have one of your volunteer family helpers launch the boat without the rig and see how bad that is.
Never claimed to have any sense
Hi Jeff and many thanks for your reply which I appreciate.
I know this doesnt seem sensible at first glance and yes it is a British Hunter, one of the originals which took part in the single handed transatlantic yacht race and later developed into the Europa. Designed I think by Oliver Lee.
Basically the costs for cutting the keel down to a skeg, and modifying the trailer would be minimal as I would do this with family help. I had assumed that I would have to add internal bottom ballast to dampen the movement. The advantages of then having a vessel which I have spent time and money on over the years and I could still use as a powered weekender without mooring costs appeals to me.
The sails are the weak point in any sales pitch I make, I have kinda sailed them to destruction and I have also advertised her but have had no luck selling her on.
In a nutshell the costs to me for doing this modification would be nil and I would be using her on inland waterways and lochs once the draught had been reduced. (No more big waves to contend with)
Also I would not have the expense of buying another boat at my time of life.
Do you think the movement would be so bad? I had heard about a number of yachts being used successfully as powered boats after being demasted by some of your hurricanes.
Thanks again
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Learn about David's experience as a Health Sciences major.
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'Hockey's Thruway marriage – the longest between an NHL club and its top minor league affiliate – is at a crossroads. Their nuptials expire after this season, and while the teams aren't necessarily estranged, they've started playing the field.'
Sabres talk, are Amerks listening?
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|Topic Review (Newest First)
Hi Mike, your right about practicing on some junk panels first,
I intend to do that with the devilbiss when it arrives.
In my earlier posts I mentioned I was using the Xtreme 5425
epoxy based primer which gave me good results. Below are
2 pictures of the primer shot on the front bumper cover of
the car. To the touch the primer feels pretty smooth. One
to two passes with 400 grit would make it feel baby soft smooth.
Thanks X
COOL it IS.
ADDICTIVE is what it's ABOUT.
A 2.0 for base? You got it GOING on 46. LOL...
I bet THAT took some "adjusting"
Just show's that you can paint with almost ANYTHING.
jc use's a 1.6 with base METALLIC'S. I tried it but that one isn't in my playbook.
It's really a matter of being used to the gun reguardless of WHAT it is.
I painted for years with that "purple" harbor freight HVLP gun and I could lay clear like glass with it,No, I couldn't do it right off but after learning the gun it became routine.
x711,Get some junk panels and practice on them with the DeVill and get a feel for it and the paint. It's time WELL spent BEFORE hitting that slick primer.
Everyone is alway's SO anxious to paint the car but trust me on this one. You'll be MORE comfortable and CONFIDENT and have a MUCH better job.
BEST of luck to ya. Mike.
Hey 46chevyfleetline glad to hear that worked out for you. Im like living for
the weekend like crazy these days, cause 2 days off 2 days to play with
the car. This stuff becomes addictive after awhile.
I really like the folks on this board most take the time to post help
which is a real good thing for a newbie. The primary driving force for me
was that I was not going to blow $2000.00 at a body shop for my car to
get painted. I went to some local ones around here and while some seemed
to be ok in their suggestions for the paint job I felt that If I did the work myself more attention to detail would be had. The big plus is that when im
finished I have the equipment at hand and the knowledge learned to do
it again or help others do their paint job.
Cool eh
Thanks X
|Hey 711! Trial and Error is definitely the rule. last week I painted my first bc cc and it turned out great except for a very few dust particles. The only thing is that I used the wrong tip and I don't know how I did it but I did. Instead of the 1.4, I used a 2.0. i had to play with the gun but I got it down pretty good with my new hvlp. Didn't realize what I did till I was Putin the gun and extra tips in a case I found to store the new gun in. Got me confused. Now I've got to get some more parts ready to paint with the proper tip before this screw -up drives me friggin' nuts. But then I guess its not a screw up cause it turned out okie dokie. And believe me I'm pretty anal to when it comes to the end product. Oh well just thought I'd tell everyone that I'm losin' it. cheers!!!
Trial & Error man,Trial & Error.
Rocket science at it's BEST!!
Aint that the truth Bee4me, but this stuff is fun none the less !
In my earlier post about doing the shooting test between guns I neglected
to say that I had reduced the paint by 10% but it still sprayed imho not
that great.
I went ahead and ordered the devilbiss plus GFG-670 gun today as I had
it on my mind to have atleast one higher end gun to shoot with, If this gun
saves me some time and produces good results It will be money well spent.
The thing is I have the car all ready to shoot, its primed with epoxy and
sanded to a baby smooth finish so it would be a shame to blow all the
effort I have put in so far for the sake of $300.00 so its worth a shot !.
Using the finex 1.0 mm gun, the actual peel was not that bad. I was able
to wet sand it out very easily, My intent is to wet sand the entire car once finished with the painting but so this part goes easy I wanna try lay the paint
as flat as is possible with my setup.
I am kind of anal about trying to get things right, I will beat this to death
until its on the money.
Hey thanks for your reply and help, I shall follow up this thread before
the week is out with my results. I got to also get some digital photos so
all can see,
Best regards X
Ha Ha lol 56 Project,
Never tried the Peanut Jar trick.
Thanks X
|56 Project
|It has been a few years since I mixed and sprayed. I used to used a large glass peanut butter jar. Put in 2 cups of water (paint) and mark the level with masking tape,add 1 cup of water (reducer) and mark the level again,then add the portion of water (hardner) and mark again. It has been a few years since I sprayed (I'm screwed now 'cuz all the peanut butter jars are plastic). I use to use Centauri by Dupont and I had found a gloss hardner called the Wet Look for the last few I did.
You answered your own question but don't realize it.
You stated earlier about having to reduce the primer cause it would not lay out right due to too small of a tip in the gun.........
SAME problem with the paint.
Single stage is thick compaired to a regular base paint so you either need a larger tip or MORE air with the 1.4 OR, Reduce the paint about 10% or so to get it to flow out better. I'd try more air as HVLP's are notorious for being "on the verge" of spraying properly,Compliant thing and all you know, So bumping the air up 10 psi will help. This set with the trigger FULLY pulled of course.
I have a Finex touch up which recomends 28# at the gun and I usually run 30# AND reduce the SS the 10% I spoke of. IF I'm spraying clear,I'll go to 35 with a medium solids (Nason Select 497) with NO reduction as I WANT the build.
IF you have a 1.6 for either full sized gun's,try that as well for the SS.
Trial & Error man,Trial & Error.
Rocket science at it's BEST!!
I prefer the S.W.A.G. method myself.
Scientific Wild *** Guess.
HVLP Spray guns and paint viscosity:
Hey bee4me, I aint getting bent on you, I appreciate you
and others taking your time to help a newbe painter out.
Its really very interesting stuff, You make some very good points.
I did some more testing with the guns I have last night, but I am not getting
the results I taught I should. I used a Sharpe Finex 1.4mm gun and also
a Sharpe finex 1.0mm gun to lay some single stage valspar Omega 2k paint.
Anyway I mixed the paint with the activator per the Tech sheet from valspar
and ran some tests with both the 1.0, 1.4mm gun.
Keeping about 8" from the object I was spraying I noticed the following.
The 1.0mm gun did pretty good but when the paint flashed off and dried
it had peel in it. I did 3 passes, letting the paint flash between passes.
The 1.4mm gun put more paint down, but after flashing off and drying
the object had more peel. Prior to shooting I did a spray test and adjusted both guns as best I could.
In both cases I noticed the following. The droplet size seemed to me to
be a little large and non uniform even after upping the air pressure a couple of pounds in the hope of atomizing the paint better. Its almost like the guns
were not able to break down the SS paint properly.
After upping the pressure The droplet size did decrease but less material
was getting delivered so I increased the flow of fluid to compensate. After
increasing the flow, I had a bigger spray pattern but still the same deal. iT
looked like there was a atomization problem to me. So I am thinking that
the guns are not really suitable for the type of paint I have.
I did some research last night and will put a call into devilbiss tomorrow
as I am interested in there new Plus GFG-670 gun as perhaps a better
avenue to go in laying this SS paint.
I would welcome any comments that anyone has on the GFG-670 or on
what they feel might be causing my atomization problem with the sharpe
guns. The devilbiss costs alot more than the sharpe so its a diferent class
of gun.
Thanks for your help.
SEE, You gotta PAINT to learn.
All part of the curve x711.
I'm playing Devil's advocate here with you to prove some important points to new painter's so don't get bent on me,You've played along and I appreciate you indulging me.
HVLP is confusing enough in it's own right.
MOST tech sheet's state 8-10 psi at the cap spraying pressure.
Show me a newbie painter that understands THAT and I'll buy you a gal of HOK base.
I use an Iwata HVLP that recommends 16-18 psi at the gun to give the recommended 8-10 at the cap. Also,they state to spray 4-5" off the PANEL.
Talk about "different". That's SO far from the norm for painting I could not believe it. IT WORK'S cause I tried it "their" way after not having much luck "my" way.Sure I can fool around with the gun and get it to spray my way but it defeats the whole design of the gun.
Same applies to paint product's.You can fool around and make them work "your" way or LEARN the PROPER way to use them.
Point being, If you follow the Manuf. recommendations,your almost home.
This is the BIG reason WHY this web board is one of the BEST.
REAL people who PAINT and KNOW what works,what doesn't,what to use.
|I think there is way too much effort to get the same results, mix it like it says and if it is to thick for you to spray run outta the booth and ad a little reducer.. and go back to spraying...like they say... no exact science here.
LOL, you are very right, but if you simply mix it according to the mix ratio it is going to be within that with out needing to measure it.
DuPont, BASF, Akzo Nobel, S&W(upper end clears and such), and Some Other Smaller Paint Companies such as Rubber Seal normally have a viscosity listing in their TECH SHEETS.
Info about the Viscosity Cups.
ULTRA 7000® Super Glamour Clearcoat CC639
" Viscosity (sprayable) #2 Zahn 16-18 sec"
HVLP Spray guns and paint viscosity:
Hey guys, thanks for the advice. I agree that for the most part the tech
sheet will get you in the window with respect to mixing ratios so this is a good starting point, then comes the tweek factor.
Where I am coming from is this and I guess if I had painted as long as some
of you I would have more experience, hence I try to dig as deep as I can and then go paint.
One of my tech sheets for primer has a mix ratio for a hvlp gun that has a range of 1.6mm to 2.0 mm. Talking with the manufacturer they told me that
I would have difficult spraying the material at a ratio of 4:1:0 with a 1.8mm
gun and it would be best to reduce the primer, which was fine.
For regular build primer they show on the tech sheet that a ratio of 4:1:1
is ok, but in my setup I found that a 4:1:1.5 ratio was better. The primer
went on very smooth.
So where I am coming from is this, since the liquid was slightly more reduced
that meant it had a thinner viscosity and the gun was able to atomize the fluid better.
So hence my post about the viscosity of the paint. I think this is something
that any newbe painter should be aware of right out the gate.
"It can reduce hair pulling"
Thanks for your insight. X
x711 I'm really not trying to make light of you or what your asking but,
Ain't nothing scientific about sprayin' paint.
Even with EVERYTHING set up and mixed and adjusted correctly you have a BIG uncontrolled variable.
That, and Karma or the Ide's or whatever form of "luck" you believe.
Some day's you can do NO wrong,Some day's are best just not even opening a can of paint.
Painting IS trial & error as YOU have to APPLY the product. The MORE you apply,the BETTER you get (supposed to work that way,Right?)
Paint costs money and I understand but nobody EVER said painting was CHEAP.
If your trying to save some $$$ by disecting everything to the Nth degree,good luck my friend cause it just does NOT work that way.Ther are no "sure fire recipe's".Conditions change and so should you.Adaptation is the ART of painting.We HAVE to do things that are NOT in the rule book.
You have to paint to learn.PERIOD.
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I ordered more material finally for the production of jump suits,vests,neckseals,beltbags etc.
I will do them in smaller runs of 6 this time in small medium and large sizes. We will custom fit them like before but remember custom fit and tailor fit are two different things.
So Ill advise you guys when these will start.
Also if anyone has PMed me about these items and I havent gotten back to you I appologize.
I also am annoyed a bit cause I also found out that someone here took my stuff and used my stuff to make patterns off which annoys me cause I did alot of work to make these and granted its not my idea etc. etc. but I think its a crappy thing someone took my hard work and is now making stuff and calling it their own.Granted all boba stuff looks the same and anyone making it will probably have the same or similar end results.
Still think its a underhanded thing to do.


text:
Utah's Largest Demo Fleet
Have a particular ski or board you would like to try?
Please leave us a note in the comments section when you make your reservation and we will do our best to accommodate you based on availability.
Have a particular ski or board you would like to try?
Please leave us a note in the comments section when you make your reservation and we will do our best to accommodate you based on availability.
"Your staff provided me with the information I needed in selecting the ski for the types of conditions I was hoping to ski. It all fell in place, plenty of fresh snow and fat boys. Great combo. Ill be back."
"Very easy going group. Hooked me up quickly and without any hassle. Hopefully, see you all again next year. Thanks."
"Your store provided one of the best ski rental experiences that I have ever had. The equipment and boots were comfortable and top notch. The price was very reasonable."
"I cant remember if we went to ARCS or Ski N See Customer service was very good. Due to light snow conditions we swapped from boards to skis and back a few times and each visit was great."
"We had a great experience. I rented for my twin boys age 5 and now every time we drive past ski and see in Sandy they say Dad- its Ski and See! Im sure well be back next season."
"The flexibility to rent my skis down town and trade for a snowboard at the Park City at no charge was outstanding. Would use ski n see again just for this flexibility"
"I was really happy with the service. I was there very early in the season, so the shop was slow, got brand new skis. It was GREAT!"
"The service was excellent and the price was about right. Wouldnt change a thing. Im hoping to be back in Utah next season to rent again!"
"The gear was in great shape and this being just the second time I have tried snowboarding, I could tell the difference in how the board was maintained. Thank you for your service and I will use your company again the next time I visit."
"The people who helped me were knowledgable and nice to work with. I have also been to the Canyon Center store and they are always nice in there as well. Thanks and keep up the good work."
"I enjoy renting from Ski n See, i tried a couple other places thru out the years and a couple year ago decided to just always use you."
"I was very impressed by the service. The staff was very friendly and helpful. Overall, it was a great experience. Im from out-of-state, but I will make sure I rent from you guys the next time Im in Utah. Great job!"
"Your people were very helpful and most important-flexable. we had sick people in our party and you allowed us to adjust our res for skis, etc. easy to find and use"
"You staff is terrific and the policy to allow pick-up at one store and drop off at another is really helpful. I was so glad to drop my skis off at the ski resort at the end of the day so I could save time on my trip back to the airport the next day. Thank you."
"The staff was knowledgeable and friendly. Convenient hours and locations. Very high quality equipment. I will continue to use Ski N See, and am planning on making a new ski package purchase when Im out in Salt Lake next year."
"For the last two years, we have used the location at Silver Lake Resort. The employees at that location are friendly and helpful. We enjoy renting there and will do it again this year. Thanks!"
"Youre on-line booking was very easy to navigate and your in-store staff was extremely accommodating and helpful. Id highly recommend your company to anyone that is heading out to UT. Great job."
"Staff was awesome; friendly and knowledgeable. We bought lift tickets at a discount from you guys too. Rented snowshoes lately too, and they worked great."
"Great and fast service, good price, immediate help at a different location when there was a problem with the binding. We were impressed and will use Ski N See again when we go to Utah next time. Thank you!"
"We had excellent service!! Would definitely recommend and use again. You make it very easy and hassle free."
"I visited both SLC and Park City. Staff and products were outstanding. Whole family were looked after with genuine care for the people they help enjoy something they all love as well. I will not go anywhere else."
"Everyone was very helpful and friendly, even helped carry my rentals out since I had a baby with me!! I definitely will continue to rent from here!"
"Service was excellent... we reseved thru internet and return it to a different location (park city) everything was very smooth and friendly"
"The staff was AMAZING, the service was great and the prices were very reasonable. My group was very impressed. We will use Ski N See again."
"We are repeat customers at Ski n See because of the great value and customer service. The folks that work at the downtown store are knowledgeable and personable. It is always a pleasure to do business at your store."
"The experience exceeded expectations. The staff was helpful and informative. And the rental equipment was very good, the price was fair, and the arrangement was reasonable."
"I have rented skis from the Sandy location for years for our annual ski trip to Utah. I always found the staff very friendly and helpful and the equipment top notch. I am 77 now and plan to continue these trips as long as possible."
"The staff at the shop is very welcoming and helpful. I dont actually rent equipment myself, but I bring my out-of-town visitors to Skin See. I bring over 4-5 groups per season. I already have guests booked for Jan 2013, so Im sure theyll appreciate the coupon! Thanks."
"You guys are great. I love the flexibility and multiple locations. I particularly like that the downtown location (next to the Sheraton, where we stay) is open late. Enough time to get back and get lift tickets for the next day."
"The skis we wanted were available and could exchange them at any shop when conditions change. Discount tickets were great."
"We liked the new store layout and the staff was very knowledgeable and helpful. Had to exchange a set of skis and it was quick."
"Renting from you was a good experience and will definitely do it again next year. Your prices beat every one else that I checked into. Thanks!"
"As a result of the service, I will be back. I can rent skis in many places and the service is what will set you and did set you apart."
"Everything works great. I like being able to do as much as possible in advance by using the internet to cut down on time spent filling out forms in the store"
"Your team was outstanding. They went out of their way to help the group. A storm was coming in and we changed our exit flight to early morning and We were able to drop the skis off at the mountain location."
"Dont know how it could be better. Great hours, nice, helpful employees, good equipment with reasonable prices."
"I found the staff to be very knowledgable and helpful. Very friendly. We had some possible special circumstances and they were willing to work with us. If we ski Utah again Ill definitely be back to Ski N See."
"Keep doing what you do. Everyone I deal with there is always professional and helpful. Ill be back next year."
"Your team was absolutely fantastic! (My sister is so picky), they even accommodated her ski rental needs. We will rent from you again. Thanks for the service."
"We had a great rental experience at Ski N See. I would definitely rent from you in the future and would recommend your company to others."
"I appreciated your helpful staff being able to receommend a good ski to demo given my ability and the snow conditions at the time that I was there."


text:
Have you ever been inspired by a great Pinterest pin? (Of course you have, you're addicted like I am.) It happened to the talented owner of The Renegade Seamstress, and she created this cute shirred top from an oversized thrift store shirt. Check out her inspiration and her how-to-make it at the site!
Pin-spiration at The Renegade Seamstress


text:
|Topic Review (Newest First)
Vegas never seems to be affected by the cold in any way. He is rotten and generally is inside right next to me, but there have been plenty of times where he needed to go out in the middle of the night... and I fell asleep before I let him back in... lol but I just find him curled up in the dog bed on the porch, content as can be.
It doesn't get nearly as cold here as other places, though, I think he would be fine either way.
Thank you all for your comments. The forecast here in Louisville for tomorrow
is a low of -4 with a high of 16. I think they could take it, but there is no way
I am going to leave them out in this for 10 hours. I am going to try and dog
proof the garage along with giving them some more options on things they
can chew. I will check in on them at lunch tomorrow and I may let them out
if it's at least 16 degrees. Neither have been crated since they were pups &
and I no longer have a crate, let alone 2. I sure hope this "Global Warming"
kicks in soon, I am about tired of this Polar Vortex.
|buy 2 crates and crate your dogs inside.
Regardless of weather, when I let my dogs out, I generally go and "look in on them" every ten minutes, just to make sure everything is in good working order and to see what they're doing. Discoe is good at letting me know when she's had enough of being outside, as she'll come and stand on the back porch steps.
With this latest weather, I generally don't let her stay out longer than fifteen or twenty minutes or so. She would probably be fine with longer, but I don't want to chance it. If I look out and she's laying or rolling in the snow, or ripping and running like a fool, I'll leave her be for a little while longer.
|With our puppy I let him tell me when he has had enough of the cold. Him and my daughter play outside and get exercise, and he usually calls it quit before her. He loves the snow, but he definitely gets cold and is ready to come back in after about 20 to 30 min in 10 degree weather.
|Mine are inside dogs, but have access to a fenced yard via dog door. The other moring I let them out as soon as I woke up as usual. It was 1 degree outside with a wind chill of negative 20. I was worried after about 10 minutes and "forced" them back inside. They would have stayed out there all day if I let them. But I won't let them. They are never out there if I'm not at home under any circumstances.
|My dogs never stay out that long alone, but my GSD did like to lay out in the backyard whenever I let her outside, and she loved to lay out in the snow even and not want to come back inside. I don't think the cold bothered her but I just don't like to leave my dogs outside unsupervised for long periods. I don't remember if she acted any different when it was below 10, or 20 or 30 degrees.
i don't leave my dog outside and it doesn't matter what
the temperature. how about crating your dogs inside
and have someone come in to check on them and to
let them out and give them a snack or a treat.
There is a guy with outdoor kenneled GSD's in my area and when the temp was below 0 and windchills even worse...people started calling AC and the police on him. His dogs had food, water, shelter and thick winter coats. If they would have been put in the house they'd have been miserable. But being out in those extremes is pretty bad too.
Do what is best for your dogs, be compassionate!
My dogs are out and in all day long.... when it is so bad they don't want to touch the ground, then no way do I let them stay out too long.
Here is a fb posting by the local AC on the two GSD's:
Kalamazoo County Animal Services & Enforcement
Thank you for the widespread concerns for the two German Shepherds in Kalamazoo which are receiving so much media attention. Our office has investigated the situation and there is no law being broken here. Our department is bound by the current laws. Even in times of a violation, our goal is to educate animal owners instead of resorting to removing their pets. The guidelines on our cover photo are simply guidelines that ideally, all owners of outdoor pets would follow. The actual law is more lenient in what it requires.
In the case of these two dogs, they are well hydrated and have good body conditions, which is evidence that they are receiving adequate provisions to maintain a state of good health.
The law that we follow is MCL 750.50 which can be found here: Michigan Legislature - Section 750.50 -- This law does not require that fresh, unfrozen water be made available at all times, it only requires that water be available "regularly" and that the animals are provided sufficient food, water, shelter, sanitary conditions, exercise, and veterinary medical attention in order to maintain an animal in a state of good health. Due to the fact that both animals are, and continue to be, in a state of good health, there is no violation of this law.
Despite the way you may treat your animals, it's important to remember that not all animals are indoor pets, and it is not illegal to have outdoor dogs. Our department responds to hundreds of neglect-related cases each year, and we do act accordingly when violations are discovered, however that is not the case for these dogs.
We appreciate your concern for the welfare of the animals, and we welcome the opportunity to educate everyone who is concerned, especially those who do not live in state, on the laws concerning animal welfare in State of Michigan.
|If its in the -20's i wont leave them out anymore then 25 minutes and that is with full access to the wind sheltered, carpeted florida room we have, if its -10 i cant barely keep them inside..they love the snow and playing and if they need in they just open the door and let themselves thru
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text: Brindel Long Necklace Style: 570065262 Out of Stock Love it? Everyone else did too. This item sold out! Use our search tool, chat online or call 1.888.855.4986 to find something equally desirable. Tinted stones in an array of settings, sprinkled on a longer strand. Adjusts from 34" to 38". Metal, stone, and synthetic materials. Read More… Share on Facebook Tweet Pin


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Gallery Upgrade - Your Feedback
#16 Guest_DOYOULIKEIT_*
Posted 08 December 2006 - 06:29 PM
Posted 09 December 2006 - 08:35 AM
Thanks for keeping this site going....
Posted 09 December 2006 - 11:47 AM
I think the blue is a bit overpowering, and I think the photos looked better with a white backdrop. Also when you view someones one photo the photo details are a bit messy, that could have been designed slightly better.
But I do think the site runs faster and I like that your avatars appear when you post a comment.
Posted 10 December 2006 - 10:38 PM
Ah! I see them now - maybe this new version isn't as immediate as the previous one? ... maybe I'll go back to bed ...
Posted 11 December 2006 - 10:24 AM
We're compiling a list and working through them all, so keep your suggestions coming.
Editor, PhotographyBLOG
Posted 11 December 2006 - 04:20 PM
Visit My Journal
Posted 12 December 2006 - 12:10 PM
As for the Gallery, yep, like the colour scheme, looks more professional, the negatives, no link to a members gallery, that is sacrilege imo, the rating system with poor and excellent the same, exif data to me is an essential, ok you can turn it on, but, I'm a lazy bast', other than that, as usual it is a brilliant site.
G@zz@ aka Gary
Posted 12 December 2006 - 03:53 PM
I agree with Stewart. I like the random images section. Because of it, I've stumbled across quite a few images I would otherwise have missed. However, hiding it behind a button would be fine with me.
Also, I'm late to the game with overall feedback, but hopefully not too late.
- Why is the comment text in boldface? From a typography standpoint, that's overkill. I find it somewhat visually jarring.
- The blue theme does seem to compromise monochrome photos.
- Add the numbers back to the rating panel, please.
- I'd also like to see the gallery links return.
- The comments on a photo are no longer paginated. This is good.
- The addition of avatars/icons on individual users' comments is a nice touch.
- Displaying the users' geographic locations (if supplied) is also nice. It adds to the sense of community.
Overall, the improvements are good. My complaints, such as they are, are minor.
Posted 12 December 2006 - 09:22 PM
I'd like the random images retained, and I agree that we must have links to members galleries on their comments - essential to foster some reciprocation. The ability to publish an RSS feed for your gallery (and subscribe to others) would be the icing on the cake, but I guess we're limited by what the PhotoPost software supports.
Otherwise, love it.
Posted 14 December 2006 - 11:16 PM
Visit My Website
Posted 21 December 2006 - 12:14 AM
Firstly, I'd like to say that I love this site, and I access it every single day, looking to all the new posts and alto to the older ones.
There is only one thing that I do not like at this site... and I have to say it, even if it won't change anything; but maybe there are some others who share my opinion: I DON'T like that sometimens, some of the winning photos are stolen from other photographers, or printscreened from some movie scene... and I think that you should be more careful when you pick them.
Thank you!
Posted 21 December 2006 - 12:02 PM
altphotos - a forum for creative photography
Posted 21 December 2006 - 12:56 PM
Editor, PhotographyBLOG
Posted 21 December 2006 - 11:06 PM
But i am growing to the blue.
Posted 24 December 2006 - 09:49 AM
I have now to clic on the year then on the last week in the year...
The shots are sorted by Title (not quite usefull ). I don't see the most active sorting anymore ? Is it by comments now ? How can I save my default sorting preferences ?
Thanks in advance (and keep up the good work (and Merry Christmas !!! ))
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- 05-06-13 08:21 PM #16Cadillac Owners Connoisseur
- Automobile(s): Cadillac STS
- Join Date
- Oct 2007
- Location
- Indianapolis Indiana
- Age
- 53
- Posts
- 1,209
Re: 190,000 Miles
I had an 1985 Mercedes 300SD...sold it with 208K...for a nice sum...original engine and trans
1992 Mercedes 300D...sold it with 202K original engine and trans...the interiors, woodwork etc were all in impeccable condition
Those Mercedes diesels bring a nice buck with high mileage.....its like people dont balk ( relatively speaking) with miles on them
On top of that the bodystyles dont change often so your car can be many years old and look very current because the bodystyle could still be basically the same
My stepfather has a Toyota land cruiser with 250K...bought it at 38K...original engine and trans...never really had any work dont to it other than maintenance
and that vehicle...relatively speaking..is still worth a few $$ as I just checked for recently what book ( and market $$) was on it
I dont think these experiences are at all isolated
I recall some stories about a family buying Honda;s and handing them down to the kids etc and running them to 300K
Ofcourse they were rusty as heck...but mechanically sound
I would say that your friends Lexus experience is far more the exception than the norm..or the cars would not hold value like they do
which is why I asked the question good for any car or good for a Cadillac?...you can find hundreds of old LS400's still going strong and worth some $$
IMO...you have to hit me with at least 300K before I feel "impressed" with engine and trans longevity
unless you say...I never changed the oil..never maintained it etc...and it hit 190,000 on the original drivetrain components
Then..I would be impressed
Warren, where do you live ? I'm in metro NYC and 190,000 on NYC pothole , gridlock roads is like 300,000 of miles for someone in most other parts of the country.
Lots of cars can go hi miles but for any car to do so under NY conditions and still look so good is impressive. Mercedes Benz also age beautifully I disagree on Lexus and Toyota Way over rated and bland as bland can be.... If your a Lexus owner enjoy. Ill take a Cadillac any day.
- 05-06-13 10:19 PM #18Cadillac Owners Connoisseur
- Automobile(s): 06 STS-V & 06 STS 4 (sold 2016)
- Join Date
- Jun 2009
- Posts
- 2,033
I'm impressed :thumbup:
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- 05-07-13 11:05 AM #19Cadillac Owners Enthusiast
- Automobile(s): 2005 STS N*, 1SF, 144K mi.
- Join Date
- Apr 2011
- Location
- Fort Worth
- Posts
- 650
Re: 190,000 Miles
GMs used to be notorious for automatic transmission failures.
Actually, all cars were, though American cars more so.
I gave my '95 W124 Mercedes, gasoline engine, to my stepson last X-mas, and it now has over 200K on the original trans.
Wife's '81 MB 240D had the original automagic in it when she sold it with over 200K on it.
Re: 190,000 Miles
IDK, there's a lot of Powerglides still putting down a lot of power 1/8 mile at a time. And a lot of Turbo-350's dragging them to the county strip every weekend!
- 05-14-13 10:51 PM #21Cadillac Owners Enthusiast
- Automobile(s): 2005 STS N*, 1SF, 144K mi.
- Join Date
- Apr 2011
- Location
- Fort Worth
- Posts
- 650
Re: 190,000 Miles
But those are massaged.
I mean OEM ones.
The Chrysler 727 was pretty much bullet-proof, too, but if abused/horribly neglected, anything mechanical is going to fail, eventually.
- 05-15-13 05:51 PM #22Cadillac Owners Member
- Automobile(s): 2005 Cadillac STS 1SG
- Join Date
- Apr 2013
- Age
- 44
- Posts
- 1
Re: 190,000 Miles
Just rolled over 160,000 miles on mine last week. Been running great for the year I have owned it. Interior looks like new and other than the normal road wear and winter sandings here in Idaho the exterior is in good condition as well. First Cadillac I have owned and loving it.
Re: 190,000 Miles
Outstanding, Caddystang! We're glad your Cadillac experience is all that we meant for it to be, and we wish you many more happy miles in the future with your vehicle.
Cadillac Customer Care
- 05-23-13 08:45 PM #24Cadillac Owners Member
- Join Date
- May 2013
- Posts
- 3
All of this is making me love my new purchase of a 2008 STS V6. 65k miles on it and was well taken care of! Seems like a steal at $16,000 with a 3 year, 36,000 mile warranty and gap insurance. Hopefully it will surpass my 241,000 miles on my previous Lincoln Navigator.
Re: 190,000 Miles
Check your oil regularly.
Re: 190,000 Miles
Happy to hear you are loving your STS V! Seems like you did get a steal for a great price with a well maintained vehicle! I hope it will surpass by many more miles as well! Enjoy driving your Cadillac and if there are ever concerns or questions you have, you know where to reach us.
Laura M.
Cadillac Customer Service
- 05-24-13 02:52 PM #27Cadillac Owners Fanatic
- Automobile(s): 2005 STS 1SG
- Join Date
- Nov 2009
- Location
- Baltimore
- Age
- 41
- Posts
- 309
192,xxx miles on my 3.6 looks great but does have minor issues from time to time but nothing major yet
125000 miles in my 2005 3.6 rwd. All original engine and trans
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|Topic Review (Newest First)
|Henry Moran
Henry Moran
If I can have my say here for what it's worth. Check out the photo of my truck's
dashboard, I sprayed it with durathane k , in the photo it looks like there's like
white powder on it, this is from smoothing it with fine paper, It's still got to get
the final coat. I dit about eight coats already, sanding in-between coats.
Yes you can-not apply thinners based products over wood stainers or varnishes,
the reason is that they contain oil and are minneral based, that is why you will
use terpentine to thin them with.
And seal the wood right around even inside holes if there are any.
[QUOTE=quality parts]I work at Mar-K Quality Parts. We make pickup bed parts. Have been testing wood finishes for a while and you may be interested in the progress. http://www.mar-k.com/wood_finish_testing_ii.html There are several clear finishes being evaluated that are specifically designed for wood that is exposed to outdoor environments. The current test has been in place for only a few months so there are no failures yet. We post updates when failures or other notable changes occur.
I got my bed wood kit from Mar-K. They recommended a Marine Spare Varnish, so that is what I'm using. I just put the second coat on and it looks real nice. If they could pre finish the kit they would make a mint.
wood finnish
They also sell a UV protector for it also. I do not use it as an adhesive. I used my regular old wood glue on my canoes. I dont think you will need to clear coat this stuff. Its kind of milky when you first lay it on, but after about 2 hrs it is as clear as glass. Plus there are no brush streaks, as it levels out great. I put on 3 coats, and sanded between each coat, as my customers wanted a glass like finnish. I have used this stuff for about every outdoor project i have built, and it still looks great. It is not cheap, but is the only thing i use.
|epoxy is a great coating for wood also. all those thick resin tabletops are epoxy resin base and i've seen those sit outside for years. many companies make clear epoxy resins so they shouldn't be too hard to find locally.
That sounds like good stuff! Does it suffer amine blush? Do you put anything over it to protect it from UV? Do you use it as the adhesive as well as the finish on those canoes? Being an epoxy, it shouldn't be any trouble to clear coat, if that's preferred.
wood finnish
I have used a two part Epoxy-Plus Marine Epoxy from Clark Craft on over 8 pickup beds over the last 12 years, and as far as im concerned you cant beat it. Builds to a tough and high gloss, and i mean it is strong stuff. Put it on all sides of the wood to seal good, and in about 7 years you might need to light sand and put on another coat. The ones i have done have never had to be recoated, but they have been parked in a garage when not being driven. Have never had one discolor yet. I have built over 20 cedar strip canoes using this same product and it really shows the beauty of the wood. Everyone will tell you they have the best product, but its up to you to decide.
Polyurethanes are much tougher. You can find polyurethane finishes on wood in large public buildings. They withstand heavy traffic, even on floors. Look for those suitable for marine use or "spar" polyurethane "varnish" (they're not really a varnish, but old terms die hard).
I have no idea about the adhesion of automotive clear coat to a polyurethane wood finish. My guess is that it would do fine if provided with a little tooth (scuff the wood finish). You would need to test to see if there would be any bleed-through. You might need to thin the wood finish with the same reducer used for your clear coat to keep them compatible. I always apply at least a couple of sealer coats of thinned (3:1 and 2:1) polyurethane wood finish before a final, unthinned coat.
Since you've sprayed cabinets, you already know to allow for the expansion and contraction of wood. The metal of a car has to expand and contract with the extremes in temperature a car faces, so my guess is that the automotive clear coat already handles movement well,
You can get polyurethane wood finishes in colored or clear and matte, satin, semi-gloss or glossy finish. You can add stains to them.
i've used alot of conversion varnish. many companies make it. the stuff i always use is from lenmar. i must say that its the easiest stuff on the planet to apply and make look good. holds up well and can be tinted with dye or pigment. available in all sheens. i usually use satin. if i was going to do something ultra high gloss like the cabinets on barry's site i would use a polyurethane clear. used to work for a large yacht manufaturer and every piece of wood in the boat looked like that. guess thats why the were about 3mil a pop. spar varnish is good and has been used for years. it works but is somewhat old school. any boat manufaturer will be using poly clearcoat or a system containg it as the final step. our procedure was a urethane sealer with a dye went on then a clear polyester primer/filler then polyurethane clearcoat. the difference in wood is that you have grain to fill. this becomes a problem when using layers of clearcoat or varnish only because within the first 6mos there is always a little shrinkage and the grain pattern starts showing up in the final finish. its like clearcoating over 40 grit scratches on bondo. the clear polyester primer was used to fill the grain then sanded smooth and topcoated. polyesters dont shrink so you dont get that problem. for a truck bed the varnish will work fine. your not really doing a finish to the level of what i'm talking about above. as long as each board is completely sealed and there are no breaks in the finish your good to go.
I really would be scared to give much advice but I do know who can.
Go to bottom left hand corner, Kim is a custom wood builder, I have seen $50,000 jobs and $8,000 end table they have done.
On colored wood coated with house of color or one I saw black she follows the perfect paint job.
The cherry was sealed and cleared with universal, bad picture because inside but look at depth on end.
Call her she would help you out as she knows more about wood paint than the makers do.
Conversion Varnish
Just thought Id throw this out there.
I don't really know anything about it but I do know that it looks great on my parent's new kitchen cabinets. Conversion Varnish is a catalized finish for wood and it's supposed to last many times longer than lacquer finishes. For all I know it's just regular old cc but it's held up great to the grandkids abusing it. Maybe someone else is a little more familiar with it.
(Part-time wood butcher)
I think you'll be fine.
Like I said, there are plenty of boats out there with spar varnish
on them going way more than a year before refinishing,
and they are exposed to the elements much worse than yours.
The key word here is "spar" varnish which is made for weather,
unlike regular varnish that is made for interior use.
Trial fit, mark boards, drill side holes, disassemble. 8 hrs
Sand boards with 120 than 220. 6 hrs
First coat of varnish. 4 hrs
Sand with 220. 4 hrs
Second coat of varnish. 4 hrs
Sand with 220. 4 hrs
Third coat of varnish. 4 hrs
Sand with 220. 4 hrs
Forth coat of varnish. 4 hrs
Final assembly 4 hrs
I willl cut my face off before I refinish the bed again.
Take it from me, a woodworker, don't ever use any wood thats not dry.
Even Kiln Dried will pick up to much moisture if not stored indoors.
If you buy cabinet grade wood from a store it will probably be kiln dried
and good to use immediately, if you get construction lumber (like2X4's)
from a lumber yard like Home Depot the wood is kiln dried but not to
a low enough moisture content to clear over. Construction lumber
is typically dried to around 12%, you need cabinet grade which is
closer to 6%. If you want construction lumber, bring it in the house
during the heating season and it will continue to dry.
Can't say how long, to many variables, but maybe 1 to 2 months.
|unless you use kiln dried wood the moisture is already in the wood along with sap. sunlight heats the wood and perculates the moisture inside causing bubbles. i have never found a clear that would hold up. i did the 37 pu on my web page with wood sealer and then 3 coats of ppg clear. so far so good but sooner or later it will fail. lasts about 4 years. take it out ,run it thru the drum sander and reapply. on my interior parts i use a polymer. there is a 2 part polyester that holds up but the machine to spray it is high dollar. mixes the 2 at the tip.
I've seen boats last way more than a year with Spar Varnish
so surely your truck will last longer.
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WWW.EuroSpot.Ca Click here to enter our online store
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Laws, Regulations & Annotations
Business Taxes Law Guide – Revision 2011
Cigarette and Tobacco Products Tax Law
Article 4. Miscellaneous Provisions
Section 30354.5
30354.5. Installment payment annual statement. The board, beginning no later than January 1, 2001, shall provide each taxpayer who has an installment payment agreement in effect under Section 30354 an annual statement setting forth the initial balance at the beginning of the year, the payments made during the year and the remaining balance as of the end of the year.
History.—Added by Stats. 2000, Ch. 1052 (AB 2898), in effect January 1, 2001.


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Two women die in Medina County crash
(Medina County) - State troopers are investigating a double fatal crash.
Officers say a car driven by 58 year old Doris Williams of West Salem, ran thru a stop sign on State Route 224, hit a mailbox, and smashed into a house.
Williams and her passenger, 53 year old Rosemarie Kinney died at the scene. No one in the house was hurt.
Investigators are checking to see if drugs or alcohol were involved.
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|Topic Review (Newest First)
Re: Selling my boat -am I crazy?
I think the only thing that matters right now is will the boat sell in this market? When the market is crowded with great used boats, it is really going to be tough to get your price. The bottom feeders come out too, and make ridiculous offers on the chance you are desperate enough to go for it. I'm related to one, he brags all the time about how he bought a boat or car way below asking price, by making an offer so low that his next take it or leave it offer almost sounds good. Usually the takers are people who really really need the money, have just gotten screwed yet again.
Gary H. Lucas
Re: Selling my boat -am I crazy?
I sold my J24 and 20' powerboat on Craigslist to pay for the Cal 29 and your getting off easy so far in terms of idiot tire kickers
But fear not at some point a reasonable person bought each boat it is just a question of if you want to roll the dice on the waiting game
Im way confused myself.
You bought the boat for 2500 it had no slip fee included
Youve had the boat for a couple of years and have had it sliped or moored for that time.
Your selling the boat want what you paid for it along with the remaining slip/mooring time left.
First boats are a money pit and i would never expect to get what i have in it back.
Oday 25 under my understanding is a trailer sailor i wouldnt be supprised if a new owner didnt even plan on keeping the boat in the same place and would see the slip as a monetary gain.
Personally if your done with the boat the economy sucks think of it this way if you dont sell while the weather is still nice and people are wishing they had a boat you might be paying for another slip fee for another year.
On a side note i pay an anual slip fee its a signed contract between myself and the marina. My boat did not sign the contract I did I could get a different boat and put it in the same spot. However I cant let someone else use the slip. No different than renting an apartment leaving it early and leting so eone else move in.
Re: Selling my boat -am I crazy?
7. Owners appoint WILLIS MARINE CENTER, INC. as exclusive agent for sale of any boat stored in our Yard at customary commission rates. No outside brokers are permitted to list boats for sale while on WILLIS MARINE CENTER premises. No "For Sale" sign shall be displayed on any vessel in the Yard, except those expressly authorized by WILLIS MARINE CENTER. Should any boat at Willis Marine Center be sold by the owner, WILLIS MARINE CENTER shall be paid 3% of the gross sale price for services rendered directly or indirectly thereto.
6. Dockage or mooring bill shall be paid in accordance with the schedule noted below. Mooring and docks are rented on a per season basis to the boat & owner listed on this contract only. No return will be made if the mooring or dock is not occupied for any reason.
7. Boat owners agree to notify the dockmaster if their slip or mooring is to be vacant overnight or longer in order that Willis Marine Center, Inc. may be able to accommodate transient customers.
And this is a friendly one
Re: Selling my boat -am I crazy?
Honestly, I'm just really angry. The guy offering 3500 SHOOK on it and told me not to sell it to anyone else. Then had the balls a couple days later to offer 2000. What a (word I'm not allowed to say). I guess i can't REALLY trust anyone, I should have known that.
Re: Selling my boat -am I crazy?
Well, if my boat exploded I could buy a new boat, sell the boat to someone else, and then transfer the slip to him. But since there's a waiting list of 70 people, I can't sell the slip itself to someone else. Besides, the guy offering me 2500 offered that with slip included.
Re: Selling my boat -am I crazy?
He was super firm at $2500. Super lame.
Re: Selling my boat -am I crazy?
Mary, maybe you should counter for $3,000. I don't know your situation, but it sounds like you could do better. Just say'n.
Re: Selling my boat -am I crazy?
So if the boat sank and burned and was hauled away, you'd still have the exclusive rights to the slip, even though the boat no longer existed?
I could see the marina having the right to buy it back ahead of anyone else, but forcing you to keep a slip without the boat? If that's what your contract says...it still might not be legal.
"Yep. Moorage is rent ... You don't get it back. "
Not so simple. If you have a lease and end it early, often you pay only for the next month, you don't pay for the rest of the original time. And if you leave early, often you still have the right to let someone else stay in your place for the time it has been paid for.
Telling someone "if you go, WE get it back and we rent it to someone else so we get to collect rent TWICE on the same spot"...that would be illegal in many parts of the US. Either you're entitled to keep using it, or you're entitled to get something back. A contract for anything less reasonable would be ruled void and unenforceable in many states.
It may not be worth being the poster child for "correcting" your marina's contracts, but it may help to know how most of the US would read this.
Re: Selling my boat -am I crazy?
Slip transfers to new owner here, but cannot sell slip to someone else.
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by Imperva
Oct 23, 2013
Download Securing Web applications against cybercriminals, hacktivists and state-sponsored hackers is a never-ending effort. Why? Because hackers evade traditional network security defenses to take down Websites and to steal data; malicious users probe websites around-the-clock looking for vulnerabilities; and automation tools make it easy to execute large-scale attacks. Web application firewalls (WAFs) have become the central platform for protecting applications against all online threats. This white paper explains in detail the 10 features every web application firewall should provide.


text: On June 7, 2011 Tech N9ne's latest studio album, All 6's And 7's hitstores! You can order it here and get the full 6's And 7'sexperience. With tracks like "He's A Mental Giant"� and "WorldwideChoppers"�, All 6's And 7's shows that Tech is reshaping the world ofhip hop once again. Featuring the likes of Lil Wayne, Snoop Dogg,B.o.B., Yelawolf and more, All 6's And 7's definitelychanges the game. Don't miss your chance, order your copy today!


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The Walking Dead: A Telltale Games Series - Game of the Year Edition is now in stores across North America and Europe! It's available for Xbox 360, PlayStation 3, and PC.
This special edition of Season One also includes the critically acclaimed post-season 400 Days episode, as well as access to behind the scenes content and the original score.
It's busy times indeed here at Telltale HQ as we prepare for the upcoming premiere of The Walking Dead: Season Two... more news on that in the coming weeks!


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I have appreciated everyone's help at this site.
I am about to start a new helmet and I thought I would ask this question:
I have templates for a new helmet ready. I cut them out of nice paper stock. Last time I traced them onto framers mat board. I was pretty happy with the results although I felt there were places that the mat board separated a bit and edges were a bit dodgy.
What other materials do you folks like to use besides mat board? Anyone tried anything else they are happy with?
I also tried once to actually glue the cut out templates onto the board and then cut them out (this lets me benefit from the graphics on the template.) I found this to be terrible over time - the paper ripped off or bubbled in places etc.
I would like to try sintra one day but... I don't think my skill are there yet.
I would love to hear some opinions about what material they like best.
Thanks again for a great site.


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|24 x 24 inches
Turn the bag inside out to wash. Wash and dry at normal temperatures and avoid fabric softeners, chlorine bleach, or any other whitening agents.
Lisa Craig
2014-08-14 15:21:23
de-laminated very quickly
The bag de-laminated very quickly (maybe a couple months of use?). I was able to keep using it for a couple more months before the plastic ripped. I really liked the size of the bag (I haven't been able to find one as big) and it kept in scent better than the two bags I bought to replace it.
2013-10-18 20:39:41
Not durable
This bag only lasted about 6 months after going in the wash about 2-3 times a week. The inside lining got torn very quickly and then it accumulates water. Fabric stores now sell PUL fabric so it is much cheaper to make your own wet bags.
2012-06-04 13:05:44
Design flaw in the top
I have had two of these bags in the 2 years since my daughter has been in diapers. I have followed all of the recommended care instructions to a tee, however in both cases, the drawstring has caused the sewing above to tear. I have refused to buy a 3rd bag, as they retail for close to locally in my area, so I have just cut the drawstring out altogether. The sewing is not good at the seams of this bag, and I believe it is due to the material being weak. Once the seams tear, the holes just bigger and bigger and are unable to be resewn unless taken to a professional. I think the drawstring is useless anyhow, and if you took that out altogether you would likely not have the tearing issues along the seams.
2011-10-14 14:30:56
Love this bag!
I looked at a lot of bags when I was looking for a large bag that would function as a diaper pail. I wasn't disappointed by my choice--in fact, I was blown away by how wonderful this bag is! First, I was surprised by how large it was. Even though I knew how big its measurements were, it still surprised me when I unfolded it. I wash diapers every second day, so it can hold a lot! Then, when I used it, I was glad to learn that all the reviews I read saying it keeps the odors in were true. (No more comments from my husband!) It washes and dries wonderfully as well. I recommend this bag to everyone I know who uses cloth diapers. It's amazing! (Plus, I just love that it matches some of my covers! LOL)
2011-01-20 14:38:30
It really is fabulous!
This bag is just fabulous! It is huge. And it really does keep all of the smell in. My husband no longer complains about the nursery smelling like pee-pee! I wash it every other day and it still looks like new. Great product- try it!
Roisin Delaney
2010-12-15 15:55:36
Wonderful Wet Bag
I LOVE LOVE LOVE this wetbag, it's large to hold a few days worth of diapers. (we wash every 2 days). We never have any issues with it. It washes so well. I have since purchased the medium wet bag to have in my diaper bag. I would recommend this wet bag to anyone, it is awesome.
Julie Kieras
2010-09-16 13:42:45
Generously sized bag is amazing
Okay, when they said I won a large wetbag, I was thinking something just a little larger than my Bummis traveling wetbag. But I was amazed to find how roomy this wetbag actually is! I am excited because I know when I have a second baby and am diapering TWO, it will STILL be able to hold all those cloth diapers! Not only that but the construction is sturdy and the fabric is super smooth with their great Super Brite prints. I love this bag! :)
Do you want to review this Bummis product ?