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by Timothy Sandefur You're familiar with the frivolous lawsuit filed by Texas developer H. Walker Royall against Carla Main, the author of the excellent book Bulldozed. (The book chronicles an egregious example of eminent domain abuse in which Royall was … Continue reading
Monthly Archives: April 2009
The Wall Street Journal has an article here on the problematic "blight" loopholes in many so-called eminent domain "reform" bills. It also carries a clip from Begging for Billionaires, the new documentary on eminent domain abuse that is premiering at … Continue reading
On Thursday, April 30, from 4:00 – 4:30 p.m., Coastal Land Rights Project attorney, Paul Beard, will be on The Andy Caldwell Show to discuss the Court of Appeal's recent decision in Farr v. California Coastal Commission and other Coastal Commission … Continue reading
Today, we filed a letter with the California Court of Appeal (2nd District), requesting that it publish its excellent decision in Farr v. California Coastal Commission. Stay tuned for the Court's decision. … Continue reading
Yesterday Westlands Water District moved to enjoin current Delta pumping restrictions, arguing, among other things, that the smelt biological opinion's restrictions based upon percentage entrainment are arbitrary and capricious. A hearing on the motion is set for May 22. Also of … Continue reading
Owing to the failure to conduct section 7 consultation, reports the AP. … Continue reading
On the Section 7 reg revisions that the Obama administration has sent to OMB, Legal Planet's Holly Doremus remarks that "it looks like the new administration is ready to act, although it remains to be seen whether the Bush rules will … Continue reading
From the Heritage Foundation: 1. bad for the economy 2. little environmental benefit 3. ongoing scientific debate 4. backdoor policymaking 5. expanded bureaucracy Interestingly, four of the five reasons prescind from any consideration of whether in fact climate change is a function of anthropogenic carbon … Continue reading
Thanks to The Volokh Conspiracy and Reason for covering PLF's recent victory in the Severance case. … Continue reading
The New York Times reported yesterday that the Interior Department has taken advantage of temporary Congressional authority to revisit the Bush Administration's new Section 7 regs, as Interior has sent to the Office of Management and Budget a final rule … Continue reading


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- 34 total posts
- 2 reviews
- 32 comments
Reviews & Stories
Botox and Filler - Newton, MA
Dr. Russo did a great job with botox and the filler he recommended for my cheeks. He has a great eye for these things and he did a great job. Nice bedside manner, nice happy fellow, really knows his stuff, is like an artist in how he sees things and he did a great job. He understates with filler to give the minimum to make you look great and I like that. READ MORE
6 Weeks Post Arm and Back Lipo
What went wrong? What should I do? 2 months post lipo looks worse. Please help! NOTE: he did tumescent liposuction as well as ProLipo assisted laser liposuction. He said he removed almost 2 pounds. The goal was "no more roll". I'm just trying to understand how it could actually look worse. Did he not take the fat out? ..or did it just sink lower? ..there was much... READ MORE
Recent comments from AmyAmy
It looks the same to me READ COMMENT
I am considering it ..doctor says only 5% less chance of lumps ...but this case has made me rethink things READ COMMENT
Have the doctors said what they can do for you? READ COMMENT
I'm sorry this happened. How are you doing? READ COMMENT
He just made things a little worse on my back and now I just ignore it and get on with life READ COMMENT

subset: commoncrawl


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According to the Hollywood Reporter, Liam Neeson's 'Taken 2' earned $50 million in the U.S. and $55 million overseas its opening weekend. The sequel earned about $25 million more than the original did back in 2008. (Has it been that long?)
I got an opportunity to catch the movie last night (see pics below) and it was actually pretty good. There were a few "wow" moments and I sat in my seat hoping that there is a man in my life who is skilled and would go to the ends of the earth to protect and save me like Neeson did for his ex-wife and daughter.
Via Huffington Post


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Once Chicago mayor Richard M. Daley champions a project, he's loathe to give it up.
So Windy City denizens were surprised when Daley announced that, after more than a decade, the city is abandoning his beloved blue-bag recycling program. Resident participation failed to meet goals.
Launched in 1995, the program was intended to provide a convenient, foolproof way to sort recyclables from trash, increasing diversion rates and, in turn, saving the city money. Participants placed paper, plastic, metals, and other recyclables in distinctive blue plastic bags and tossed them into refuse containers with the rest of their solid waste. The bags were removed from the waste stream at sorting centers the city built for $60 million.
Daley's administration trumpeted that the program would quickly divert at least 25% of the city's municipal solid waste from landfills. Instead, the rate was closer to 8%, and—as reported by the Chicago Tribune—only about 13% of Chicago's eligible homes and businesses participated.
Uptown neighborhood resident Rebecca Kell says that while the program wasn't without its benefits, several factors may have doomed it to failure.
"Participation wasn't mandatory, and we had to spend time and money to buy the bags and sort through our garbage," she says. "I find it hard to believe that the bags weren't breaking in the trucks. Also, homeless people looted the bags for aluminum cans."
While no major U.S. cities use blue-bag recycling, small-town America has enjoyed success with such programs.
Wauwatosa, Wis.—a Milwaukee suburb of 47,271—achieved a 21% diversion in eight years. According to mayor Theresa Estness, the city succeeded where others failed because of its heavy-duty bags, low compaction, increased transfer trips, better processing, and aggressive public education.
In lieu of blue-bag recycling in Chicago, Daley announced the city will expand a pilot curbside program next year, delivering carts through a state-funded initiative. The shift builds upon a successful test in the Beverly neighborhood, where participants achieved a 23% diversion rate.


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Talk around 'FANkato today was rookie QB TEDDY BRIDGEWATER may get some Friday-night run with the first team. The Vikings host the Raiders, and if this is the case, yeah, it's a tightly contested, all-out battle for the starting spot between Teddy and MATT CASSEL.
Chatted with COACH ZIMMER shortly after #92Noon today and he shared he expects Teddy to "play very well Friday night." And that "he will play quite a bit." I am beginning to feel the starters on offense may play the entire first quarter, or the amount of time for Cassel to get two series and Teddy at least one behind the first OL.
ADRIAN will not suit up Friday night and I am not sure WR GREG JENNINGS will, but the key for Bridgewater to have a fair chance to in the Sprint to St. Louis Stakes is for him to be protected by The Minnesota Moving Company, which is the starting OL.
I still believe Cassel gets the money into the regular season but also know OC NORV TURNER is very high on the rookie, and that opinion matters most. Even though there's no reason to rush the rookie and force him into something with which he's not comfortable I am getting the sense he is impressing as much behind the scenes (mind work, film study, being inquisitive) as he does at times on the field.
And I stick by what I have said all offseason - there's no disputing you can do more offensively with Teddy given he offers more of a running and read-option threat. Cassel, though, obviously has seen much more and should have a better grasp on what to expect, so that has to keep him favored in this race.
Matt, though, is a lukewarm favorite in this two-horse race, and the gates pop with the real race (game situations) Friday night against Oakland. If Bridgewater does everything expected of him and more this preseason it will be difficult for the staff to sit him to start the season. This is fun.
#Valhalla #Faith


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I told them that when I was little I had a clubhouse tucked under the basement stairs. Not fancy, just a secret place with a miniature door and a mysterious wooden box that held classified codes and pencil nubs. I have been a great many things, but when I was a secret agent, I was exceptional at it.
Yet we grow. We move on. And we forget.
But there is this part of me that is still so secret, and the other part is nothing like that.
One long summer, when the girls were crawling and falling, my SuperheroMan jackhammered our basement floor and hauled the concrete away in rusty metal pails. With his dad. And that winter we built a clubhouse tucked under the basement stairs.
Shingled on the outside with a mail slot, outdoor light and window box, it now houses baskets of delicious wooden food, a tea set, guest books, date stamps, homemade wooden chalkboard postcards, pretend money, aprons and chefs' hats, a desk call bell, and a few lonely spiders.
It is absolutely the best restaurant in our small town.
§ 36 Responses to The Clubhouse Under the Stairs"
This is the COOLEST thing EVER! I want to come over and spent many long hours exploring that clubhouse – totally awesome.
I am so looking forward to a book of your collected posts.
Brilliant! And so incredibly adorable. Nice work!
I'm with Sarah– coolest thing ever! Absolutely fantastic!
WAYYY Cool! I want one and I haven't been a recognizable "kid" for ages!
Thank you all! So sorry my reply to your comments was delayed–we were out of town and then without power for several days following the hurricane. Back on track now. Thank you so much for your kind kind comments–I truly love hearing from everyone.
I was so impressed with your playhouse that I have my dad making one for my sons this week. Would you mind explaining more how you did the door? It looks like it isn't a regular door knob but just pulls open. How did you keep it closed? Anything else you could tell me about the door would be very appreciated! Thanks and great work!
Robyn, great to hear you're planning a similar project! We constructed the door out of 3/4 inch ply, cut out the window, hung it on 4 hinges, cut it in half and then rehung it. The knob is just a simple wooden knob–it doesn't turn. There is no latch on the door–just swings open and closed easily. We put a wall-mounted light inside with a wall switch outside the door–this is used all the time, since it's dark and scary in there without it.
We put a wall-mounted outdoor light above the door. This looks cute, but as the kids have grown older, it has become a real head-bonker as they race into the clubhouse.
Good luck with the project. Send photos if you're able!
That is SO fantastic — it's got to be one of the best playhouses ever.
Love! I secretly want one for me. Could always make one now and wait 'til my kiddos are old enough to enjoy it 😉
I love this! I'm going to convince my husband that we NEED to do this!
I think this might be the coolest thing I've ever seen. I used to play under the stairs at my parents' old house, in a little luggage closet – I loved that space. This is even better!
When you are small, those small spaces are the best, aren't they? Thanks for checking in!
[…] via mossy […]
Oh this is so fun! Love the dutch door. One of my piano students has a playhouse just like this under her stairs.
Found your charming clubhouse through Pinterest and I had to come by to see the rest. How wonderful! Your kids are lucky and so are you! What an inspiring little spot.
So nice to connect coast to coast. Just took a peek at the impressive list of blogs you follow. Whoa! Thanks for stopping by and for your sweet comments.
I adore this!! I pinned it as an idea I want to do in our basement – thanks for the inspiration!! PS…I saw this first on shelterness if you didn't know already 🙂
Dear Marcie,
What an amazingly creative and LOVELY way to express yourself and create an AMAZING space for your children under the steps. I absolutely love everything about it!
Siobhain Dobrovolny of SoulfulNest.com
Hurricane Irene and some insurance money have given us the opportunity to redo the basement. The contractor is starting today. Jeanine mentioned that we want to steal your idea. Brian was kind enough to direct me to the photos.
btw, Love your website. Have not been on here in a while. It's a treasure trove of great ideas.
I love this! Makes me wish I were a kid again! I would LOVE to do this! Thank you for sharing.
We are starting our new home in April and we are absolutely gonna do this for our little boy! This is awesome! Thanks
Where did you buy the door and outside material for this clubhouse? Thanks! Awesome idea!
We made the walls of our clubhouse out of 1/4 inch ply covered with 2 bundles of cedar shingles–bought at the lumberyard. We constructed the door out of 3/4 inch ply, cut out the window, hung it on 4 hinges, cut it in half and then rehung it. We put a wall-mounted light inside with a wall switch outside the door–this is used all the time, since it's dark and scary in there without it.
We put a wall-mounted outdoor light above the door. This looks cute, but as the kids have grown older and a bit taller, it has become a real head-bonker as they race into the clubhouse. I would omit the outdoor light. Thanks for your nice note!
Hi Marcie! Thanks for sharing your wonderful idea! I've been looking for both under the stair storage and playhouse ideas – and I can say FOR SURE … that I like your playhouse the best so far! So super cute! I can even envision myself simply crawling in it to "get away" and read a book 🙂
Thanks again!
Thanks, Kelly! It has rescued me on many rainy days, since we have a smallish house. Good luck with your project!
Absolutely love this. I loved to play under the basement stairs when I was little, but my play house was sheets hung up by nails and rag rugs for carpet. I loved it and had forgotten about it until I read your post above. As soon as my son moves out of the basement, I'm going to see about changing under our stairs. Thanks so much!
[…] I absolutely adore this. It's a kid's playhouse! […]
Hi I have seen this and simply fallen in love with it. My 3 year old wants one so I'm trying to convince the family to do it for us… Was it very expensive to create? x
Thanks! Not too expensive. We used scrap wood for the door, and used some interior paint we had on hand. We bought plywood ($25), a bundle of cedar shakes (less than $10), door hinges ($10 total) and a simple light socket ($25). I'd say, less than $100 for the whole project. Good luck in your convincing–and send photos if you're able!
I saw something like this on Facebook and went to the internet to see if I could find more examples. I ran across yours today. Just fabulous!!! I was about to decorate a room behind the stairs in our lower level into a "woman cave" for me (Dear Husband is now retired and I need a retreat from the TV noise upstairs! LOL). We have our 1 year old granddaughter here 3 days a week. I'm thinking that now I will be creating a "Grandma and Me" space for the 2 of us as the playhouse entrance will be from inside the "woman cave". I can't wait to get started on our "girls' space". Our understairs area does not seem very big though. Can you tell me the height and floor dimensions of your playhouse? I would really appreciate that!
Sounds great, Cyndy! Our small space measures 5 feet tall (at the tippy top). It is 6 feet at the floor and 3 feet wide. Good luck with the project. Let me know how it turns out!
My parents did this for me when I was a child. It was the best place ever. They found brick wallpaper and used that on the outside. It had a window, door, etc. Wish there was a way I could have done the same for my kids but our house doesn't allow it.
Absolutely love this Under the Stairs Club House! We are finishing our basement now and I am definitely doing this. Thanks!
p.s. I also liked the idea of using brick wallpaper that Creative Mama on a Dime mentioned.
I love the playhouse! You did an amazing job. I wanted to make one for my daughter, and was wondering how you did the window?


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The Green Book: The Everyday Guide to Saving the Planet One Simple Step at a Timeby Elizabeth Rogers, Thomas M. Kostigen, Cameron Diaz (Foreword by)
Inside The Green Book, find out how you can too:
- Don't ask for ATM receipts. If everyone in the United/i>
Ellen DeGeneres, Robert Redford, Will Ferrell, Jennifer Aniston, Faith Hill, Tim McGraw, Martha Stewart, Tyra Banks, Dale Earnhardt, Jr., Tiki Barber, Owen Wilson, and Justin Timberlake tell you how they make a difference to the environment.
Inside The Green Book, find out how you can too:
- Don't ask for ATM receipts. If everyone in the United States refused their receipts, it would save a roll of paper more than two billion feet long, or enough to circle the equator fifteen times!
- Turn off the tap while you brush your teeth. You'll conserve up to five gallons of water per day. Throughout the entire United States, the daily savings could add up to more water than is consumed every day in all of New York City.
- Get a voice-mail service for your home phone. If all answering machines in U.S. homes were replaced by voice-mail services, the annual energy savings would total nearly two billion kilowatt hours. The resulting reduction in air pollution would be equivalent to removing 250,000 cars from the road for a year!
With wit and authority, authors Elizabeth Rogers and Thomas Kostigen provide hundreds of solutions for all areas of your life, pinpointing the smallest changes that have the biggest impact on the health of our precious planet.
Product Details
- 9780307381354
- Publisher:
- Potter/TenSpeed/Harmony
- Publication date:
- 06/19/2007
- Pages:
- 224
- Sales rank:
- 1,294,968
- Product dimensions:
- 5.10(w) x 7.95(h) x 0.50(d)
Customer Reviews
Average Review:
Most Helpful Customer Reviews
See all customer reviews
Decads ago, Kermit the frog said that 'it ain't easy being green.' The writers of this book present green living in an easy to read and easy to live format. It CAN be easy to be green. I've incorporated several 'green ways' into my family life, and this book has taught me new ways to expand on them.
Enjoyed the book very much.
I was very disappointed with this book and I'm very glad I borrowed it from the library instead of buying it. I gives VERY basics tips on how to 'go green' but after each over simplified tip, it lists how that tip can add up (ie. If everyone in the world changed one light bulb,....) and it got really old after the 200th tip and matching world changing statistic. I wished they would have gone into more detail with each tip. I felt the book lacked the 'meat' and was just fluff. The whole last 40 pages or so are just the resources used to write the book. I'd say skip this book and read something with more substance like 'Organic Housekeeping'.
Great book with easy to implement ideas. I just returned from living in Germany for 6 months and they are so far ahead in recycling etc. It made me want to be more earth friendly when I returned to the US. We have made some small but high impact changes in our home and you can too!
I loved this book! When I looked at the book, I thought to myself that one little deed a day is not going to affect the environment. After I looked further into the book I realized that almost everyone of these deeds saves yourself money and can make you healthier! I loved the ideas and there are many tips in there that can take five minutes to set up and can save you over $50 (electricity bill)!
its is a very useful and informative source as to how you can do little things everyday to benefit yourself as well as the planet
This book takes a holistic approach to suggesting environmentally sustainable practices regarding, for example, the purchases we make, the food we eat, the money we invest, the vacations we take. Some are very simple suggestions, some more involved and complex. Readers may be overwhelmed by the sheer number of suggestions the book makes and think, 'I can't do ALL this.' Keep in mind, however, that the bottom line is to do something - to do what you can within your means to reduce conspicuous consumption. The book is very insightful for a reader who wonders, maybe for the first time, how to make environmentally sound choices. The internet addresses the book lists are particularly helpful for those seeking more information on the particulars of adopting certain practices.
When I read the first chapter, I was like 'well these are interesting facts,' but each chapter was nearly an emulation of the last, using the same grammar each time. On top of that, the ideas are painfully obvious, stating things like 'take shorter showers.' They also give 'dreamworld' stats claiming how much we would save if x number of people used their idea. Their stats a merely a pipedream, and do not come close to reality.


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- Price:
- $256.00
- Description
- Specifications
- Reviews
- Videos
CamelBak's biggest system at 45L+ keeps you mobile, comfortable and efficient on even the most intense missions. Features include an easy-to-fill and clean wide-mouth OMEGA® opening; rugged and durable Water Beast™ material; leak-proof screw-cap, insulated PureFlow™ tube; patented Big Bite™ Valve; HydroLink™ Exit Port and Drink Port; HydroLock™ one-handed flow control; ASIPS Radio attachment points to hold comms securely with dual antenna ports; a glasses, goggles and NVG pocket with external access; and multiple drink tube exit ports - for routing drink tube over the shoulder or under an arm. Made of lightweight, durable 500D Cordura® Fabric. Dimensions: 21" x 20" x 14". Comes with a lifetime guarantee from the manufacturer.
We encourage our customers to let us know what experiences they have had with our products, whether good or bad. By submitting a review, you can share your experiences with others and also provide valuable feedback to us as well. With just a few simple steps, you can add your review of this product.
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re: rear axle bearing
thanks for the advice guys but once inside there was more than just the outer bearings that were bad. Now what rear end do you recommend to put back in? It's a 83 camero with 350 eng. with 350 turbo trans that has a shift kit. What years interchange with this?
[ December 09, 2002: Message edited by: 1badcamero ]</p>
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Driftmoon - Review Roundup
Here is a small collection of recent Driftmoon reviews. The first two were already linked to on their website.
i-luv-games, 9
It's easy for me to recommend Driftmoon as a purchase. It has a fun story, loads of gameplay, great atmosphere, and I think it will remind others of the great games they themselves had played long ago. I'd urge you to buy it after reading all of this, however if you're still not convinced then please do yourself the favor of picking up the lengthy Driftmoon demo and find out for yourself why it deserves a place in your game library. If nothing else, Driftmoon proves the point that greatness can come from humble beginnings
Destroy All Fanboys, 95%
Visually, all you need to do is play the game, look around and do a bit of zooming in and out to see it's chock full of detail that makes every nook and cranny quite believable without relying on graphics card melting photorealism. People and environments are solid and lovingly rendered, little bugs (no, not THOSE types of bugs!) and other critters skitter around and overall, there's a nice sense of place thanks to the varied locations and the amount of interactivity in most of them. The game shortcuts what would be long-winded (and expensive to produce) expository cinemas into text and dialog that convey mood and move the plot from place to place almost perfectly. While there's no voice acting in the game, the lovely character art and some of the character descriptions and dialog pull you into parts of each character's life. You end up liking many of the people you team up with or at least wanting to know more about them.
Dealspwn, 8
This sense of fun and personality funnels into the gameplay. You'll strive to collect a legendary weapon, which turns out to be a garden implement. You'll uncover the reason why 'Evil Berries' deserve their worrying moniker. Powering up your character and beating down enemies may be all well and good, but you'll keep playing to discover what silly situation you'll end up in next. Driftmoon feels like a blast from the past in many ways, a product of a time when studios threw the constraints of grit and realism out of the window in order to focus on fun.
Information aboutDriftmoon
SP/MP: Single-player
Setting: Fantasy
Genre: RPG
Platform: PC
Release: Released


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Hey there, time traveller!
This article was published 6/11/2012 (1695 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.
The suspect in the cold case slaying of two Minnedosa residents will be extradited from Michigan to Texas this week to face capital murder charges.
On Nov. 13, 1988, Minnedosa residents Evan and Wilda Squires were shot to death in their Weslaco, Texas, mobile home where they wintered, after they apparently surprised one or more would-be burglars.
Weslaco police failed to make headway with evidence at the time and the investigation had long since stalled. DNA from the scene, however, was entered into an American national registry, which pinged back a hit in December 2011.
Arturo Almaguer, then 41, had been arrested in May 2011 on an unrelated charge in Grand Rapids, Mich., where he remains in custody at the Kent County jail.
In a press release issued yesterday by the Weslaco Police Department, investigators, working together with the Hidalgo County Sherriff's Office, say Almaguer will be extradited this week to Texas, where he will face charges of capital murder, murder and burglary with intent to commit other felony.
Almaguer, now 42, is expected to be flown down to the Rio Grande Valley and will be taken before a Weslaco judge on Friday at noon for arraignment.
» Brandon Sun


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Linn Akurate Exakt DSM Player and Exakt Akubarik Loudspeaker Review
My first exposure to a new Linn technology named Exakt was at the 2013 CEDIA Show in Denver. I didn't have a chance to listen to the system on display because the show floor was very noisy, but I talked to Linn's Managing Director Gilad Tiefenbrun about Exakt. I walked away from the conversation enthusiastic about the capabilities of Exakt and about the possibilities for better sound reproduction in home environments. I'm a big supporter of using technology, but only when it's appropriate. Linn's use of Exakt technology to send lossless digital data via CAT5/6/7 cables into the loudspeakers and keep that data in the digital domain, through the crossover and volume control, until just before the final amplification stage within the loudspeakers is what I call great use of technology. Less than one year after that CEDIA show I have an Akurate level Linn Exakt system in my listening room. I had reservations about setting aside my large analog equipment, state of the art digital to analog converter, and TAD CR1 loudspeakers in order to put the Exact system in place. There is no going in to this system half-way as it's fully active with amplification attached to the loudspeakers, digital to analog converters attached to the loudspeakers, and RJ45 ports rather than binding posts for receiving the incoming signal. I couldn't even use an Aurender music server if I wanted to with the Exakt system. None of this is good or bad in and of itself. It's just a fact of using any Exakt system. There's no hodgepodge of components to select, interconnect, and hope for a good synergy. Exakt works within its own ecosystem, and it just works. After the initial setup and two weeks of extensive listening I am very impressed with the Linn Exakt technology. In fact, the Akurate Exakt DSM and Exakt Akubarik loudspeakers comprise the best Linn system I've ever heard. Period.[PRBREAK][/PRBREAK]
Linn Exact Technology
Linn's approach to home audio reproduction is somewhat similar to Apple's approach to everything in which the company is involved. Both companies produce products that are distinctly their own and easily recognizable with a glance. High quality look, feel, and integration. In the world of computing the way to control the user experience and make it unique is to product software and hardware. In the world of HiFi this is done by controlling every step in the music reproduction chain. Linn has controlled every step, including production of great music, for decades with its analog and digital sources, amplification, pre-amplification, and loudspeakers. Linn is now taking this control one step further, or perhaps one step more granular, with the introduction of Linn Exakt technology.
Linn isn't the first company to send digital data to loudspeakers or even use Ethernet cables to transmit signals to its loudspeakers. Engineers at Linn are well aware of that fact they they don't pretend to be the world's first audio company using this type of technology. However, Linn has put its own engineering resources and capabilities into the technology to create its unique Exakt Link. Digital audio into loudspeakers = nothing new. Linn Exakt Link into loudspeakers = new. Exakt Link is the new protocol Linn created to send lossless digital audio from the DSM player to a current maximum of 8 channels at 24-bit 192 kHz. Where some "digital loudspeakers" receive AES / EBU signals, the Linn Exakt loudspeakers receive Exakt Link signals. Exakt Link signals travel over CAT5/6/7 cables but at this point the protocol is not routable or switchable. This means one can't plug Exakt system loudspeakers into an Ethernet network switch and still receive signals from the Exakt DSM. In an Exakt system the DSM player provides data routing from an Ethernet network input to the Linn Exakt network outputs. The DSM players feature a single Ethernet input and four Exakt Link outputs. Connecting over four channels is done by daisy-chaining the loudspeakers. When listening to music, UPnP / DLNA is used to send audio data to the Linn Exakt DSM player. This DSM player losslessly routes the audio data from its Ethernet input to its Exakt Link outputs and on to the loudspeakers.
The main difference between an Exakt system, previous Linn systems, and most other audio systems is lossless digital audio transmission to the loudspeakers. Transmitting lossless digital audio up to the final amplification stage enabled Linn to address three areas involved in audio reproduction to a level that it was previously incapable of reaching. These areas Linn identifies as design, manufacture, and room optimization.
The design area is where Linn addresses magnitude and phase distortion. Traditional passive crossovers suffer from manufacturing issues because of imperfect tolerances. These imperfections lead to variances in the crossover point. What the user of the loudspeaker hears is an increase or decrease in volume at certain frequencies. Active crossovers can reduce magnitude distortion because of lower voltage and current levels, but the fact remains both active and passive crossovers are still analog. Linn addresses this issue through the use of digital crossovers in its Exakt systems. Splitting the signal in the digital domain removes the chance of traversing analog components with noticeable manufacturing tolerances. The Exakt crossover's magnitude distortion is measured at 0 dB.
Phase distortion has to do with frequency fundamentals, harmonics, and timing. Analog crossovers, in a strange digital kind of way, are turned to the on position when it comes to timing delays of the signal. All signals are delayed the same amount of time. The problem rests in how long it takes certain signals to travel from the analog crossover to the listener's ear. Because the highs and lows are delayed the same and because the highs will travel through the loudspeaker as a whole faster than the low frequencies, listeners will hear a slightly out of phase signal at the listening position. Some loudspeaker manufactures have attempted to correct for this by physically moving tweeters further back from the listening position. Linn addresses this issue in the digital domain with the Exakt system. Exakt delays the digital signals in memory for the appropriate amount of time before delivering the signal to the drive units and on to the listener's ears. The result is a more phase coherent listening experience.
All manufacturers live with the reality that their parts can't be made perfect every time. Manufacturing variations are inevitable whether a company makes its own drivers or has them outsourced to the biggest or best driver manufacture in the world. In a traditional passive loudspeaker the designer must accept these variations as facts of engineering life. Linn's Exakt system is capable of handling variations in the manufacturing process. At the Linn factory every drive unit's electrical characteristics and response are measured. These measurements are stored in the Cloud for use at the right times. One of those times is during the installation of the loudspeakers in a user's home. The Exakt system checks the Cloud for information relevant only to the user's specific drive units. Once Exakt has the information it makes corrections within the digital crossover to insure the loudspeaker is performing exactly as designed. In essence a large group of Exakt loudspeakers could be measured with identical results even though manufacturing variances exist between all the products.
Linn Exakt loudspeakers are designed to be placed in the user's preferred location, not the preferred location of the loudspeaker designer. Linn understands its users live in real homes with real furniture and real obstacles to perfect loudspeaker placement. Thus, a combination of the dealer and the user personalize the system to each environment. Linn calls this room optimization, not room correction or any other variant of the name. Linn Exakt room optimization isn't rocket science, but I felt more comfortable with Linn's Darrin Kavanagh here to assist during setup. Plus, Darrin saved quite a bit of time with his Leica laser measurement tool. Optimizing for my listening room we placed the loudspeakers in, what we thought would be, the best position. Fortunately I have a dedicated listening room and placement of the loudspeakers was unencumbered by other considerations. We listened to a few familiar tracks before moving the loudspeakers several inches. Darrin would ask if I thought the sound improved of worsened after each loudspeaker move. After several position changes we both agreed on a perfect placement for the Akubarik loudspeakers. This was the first step in room optimization.
Darrin proceeded to enter the coordinates of the loudspeakers into the Linn Konfig software. After some calculations the software provides optimization options for what it calls room modes. Konfig does not automatically calculate high frequency response, that one has to be manually adjusted in case of particularly reverberant or absorbent room furnishings. The allowable range of adjustment is +/- 2dB above 8kHz. The Linn Exakt system is only subtractive. It isn't possible to add a frequency bump anywhere between 10 Hz and 100 kHz. Darrin and I spent the most time adjusting for a single room mode. Surprisingly my room only had a single mode that needed to be adjusted. The optimization software suggested we should place a single large frequency dip of -18 dB at 33.78 Hz. Making adjustments was as simple as entering a value and listening. Darrin sat next to me and made changes to the gain of the dip on his MacBook Air while I had the iPad in hand ready to tap play as soon as a change was saved. We tried a few settings and settled with a -12.00 dB gain at 33.78 Hz. After setup we spent time toggling the Exakt optimizations on and off. The differences in my listening room could easily be heard, but were not night and day differences. This is mostly due to my dedicated listening room and free placement of the loudspeakers. When I visited the Linn factory in Glasgow I was given a demonstration of Exakt optimizations when loudspeakers were place against a wall with a television between the left and right channels. The positive difference that could be heard in that system was night and day. I suspect most people considering a Linn Exakt system will benefit greatly from the Exakt optimization.
The Linn Exakt technology addresses the aforementioned issues in typical Linn fashion, taking its system approach one step beyond its previous offerings. Exakt systems keep the lossless audio signal digital from the network attached storage (NAS) through the DSM player and on to the loudspeaker until the final amplification stage. This system cuts jitter in half compared to Linn's previous top of the line Klimax DS player. In addition to performance upgrades, all parts of the Exakt systems are software upgradable.
Using and Listening to Exakt
Prior to receiving the Linn Exakt system I was very hesitant yet very excited. I hesitated because I hadn't moved my TAD CR1 loudspeakers in over two years. Needless to say I was very used to the sound of my reference system. I could pop a component into my system and recognize differences easily. My excitement stemmed from the fact that I really like how Linn is using technology to improve the listening experience and from an engineering perspective it all makes a lot of sense. There's no hocus-pocus with Linn.
The evening before Darrin's arrival I unpacked the Linn road cases and placed everything in its approximate position. This system consist of the Akurate Exakt DSM player and the Exakt Akubarik loudspeakers. The DSM player is much like the other DSM models in that it's a UPnP / DLNA renderer with Ethernet input and is compatible with most of the DLNA control point iOS applications. On the outside the Akurate Exakt DSM player differs in that it features four RJ45 outputs rather than analog RCA or XLR connections. Internally this DSM player has added software that connects the user's Ethernet network to the Linn Exakt Link network, thus it's a router interfacing two networks. I connected the DSM player to my Ethernet network and ran CAT7 cables from the DSM player into the Akubarik loudspeakers. I fired up the system and sent audio to the DSM player without configuring a single item. To my pleasant surprise I had music playing through the Exakt system. The only issue I experienced right away was that I had the right and left channels reversed. This was resolved by simply swapping the channels through Linn's Konfig software on my Mac. While I was viewing the Konfig application I clicked a single button to disable the previous user's Exakt optimizations as they were for a completely different listening environment and would likely make the system sound a bit strange in my room. In a very short period of time I was up and running with a full Linn Exakt system and getting a taste of what was to come after optimizing for my listening room.
As previously mentioned, Darrin and I ran through the Exakt room optimization steps and both agreed on a configuration that reproduced the best sound in my listening room. After spending a few hours with Darrin he had to catch a plane back home to Denver, and the system was all mine. Beginning the minute Darrin left and concluding shortly before typing the first word of this review I listened to the Akurate Exakt DSM player and the Exakt Akubarik loudspeakers for hours on end each day. This is a wonderful system to use and with which to listen to music.
One of my new favorite albums that just happens to work well as demo material is Laith Al-Saadi's Real. The first track titled Gone is a terrific recording and a terrific song. Through the Exakt system this track sounded very good. Individual instruments occupied their own spaces with good delineation and a solid presentation. Laith's voice was presented in all its fullness with a bit of texture. A couple items I didn't hear with this system playing this track were a more sharp edge on transients and more texture in the vocals, both lead and backing, especially in the lowest registers. Perhaps this is due to my usual system consisting of beryllium drivers and the Akubarik's more forgiving soft dome tweeter.
Testing the phase coherence of this Exakt system I played Roger Waters' Amused to Death album. The track Perfect Sense, Part I revealed the most enveloping soundstage I've ever heard. The opening voices and breathing emanating from the left side and the piano coming from the right sounded like a 190 degree sound field. I felt enveloped by the Q Sound experience and its requirement of a phase coherent system. The Exakt system was marvelous with this album.
Listening to Gordon Goodwin's Big Phat Band play several tracks from its That's How We Roll album I immediately noticed the rich tonal balance and timber present in this Exakt system. Identifying all the trumpets, saxes, and trombones was as simple as just listening. None of the horns ran together in a big blob of horn-like sound. The Exakt system reproduced the Big Phat Band's big sound wonderfully.
Nat King Cole's The Very Thought of You is one of my all-time favorite albums and tracks. Listening to it through the Exakt system very enjoyable. Nat's rich voice was beautiful from note one. The backing orchestra was as pleasant as ever. However, I was missing a bit of texture in the vocal and a certain gloss or sheen was also not as apparent in Nat's voice as I am used to hearing. Which version is more accurate, my reference system or the Exakt system, I'll never know. The Exakt system has an incredible smoothness to it that can keep one listening for hours without fatigue.
The Exakt system didn't lack detail one bit. Playing Randi Tytingvag's Red or Dead really made the Exakt system shine. This track can pierce one's ear drums if played through a bright system or played too loud. Through the Exaky system I heard all the detail without any of the harsh brightness. The smoothness and possibly a bit of darkness present in this Exakt system proved for a great match with Randi's entire Red album.
Playing a bit of my favorite rock and roll through the Exakt system was also a treat. Pearl Jam's Yield album opens with the track Brain of J. This track has a very large expansive soundstage. Exakt didn't disappoint when the drums kicked in at 0:07 into the first track. The large soundstage and smoothness of Jack Iron's drum rolls was exactly how I love to hear this album.
The Linn Exakt system is yet another step in Linn's evolution toward a better listening experience in one's home. The Exakt Link protocol is a digital audiophile's dream in that it keeps the audio data in the digital domain unit the final amplification step at the loudspeaker. This near complete digital pathway addresses inherent design issues with analog crossovers, unavoidable manufacturing variances between drivers, and enables personalized room optimization for each listening environment. Based on two solid weeks of listening to the Linn Akurate Exakt DSM player and the Exakt Akubarik loudspeakers I am convinced Linn has made a large step forward compared to its previous analog based systems. Phase coherency, tonal balance, and timber are hallmarks of this system. Listeners may not even realize how much each of these characteristics matter until they hear a Linn Exakt system in person. The sound quality of this Exakt system is very good in my dedicated listening room. I have no doubt it will be equally as good in many more traditional home environments that contain the elements of real life such as furniture and clear paths for walking through the living room. Room optimization with the help of a Linn dealer can work wonders, as I heard at the Glasgow factory, if needed or simply get out of the way when the loudspeaker placement requirements are less stringent. I'm willing to bet all current Linn owners will fall in love with the Exakt system. They understand the Linn ethos and completely "get it." I'm also willing to bet potential Linn customers won't be able to get the Exakt sound out of their heads once they hear a demonstration. Linn gets technology and puts it to great use with the Exakt system. I highly recommend the Linn Akurate Exakt DSM player and the Exakt Akubarik loudspeakers.
Product Information:
- Product - Linn Akurate Exakt DSM player and Exakt Akubarik loudspeakers
- Price - $41,000
- Product Page - Link
Where To Buy (CA Supporter):
Associated Music:
Associated Equipment:
- Source: C.A.P.S. v3 Carbon Server
- Remote Control Software: JRemote, Kinsky
- Remote Control Hardware: iPhone 5, iPad (3rd Generation)
- Network Attached Storage (NAS): Synology DS1812+
- Network: Cisco SG200-26 Switch, Baaske MI-1005 Ethernet Isolator, AudioQuest Vodka Ethernet Cables throughout system, Apple AirPort Extreme, PFSense Router / Firewall, Cisco DPC3000 Docsis 3.0 cable modem, Comcast Extreme 105 Mbps Internet Service
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text:
Well i've decide i'm going to try and restore my trim myself.
Anyone got any brief instructions and what type of paint i need?
This is what i know so far: i'm going to have to clean the trim, sand off the paint and existing marks, prime and coat with paint?
is that sounding right? what type of paint do i use and where can one purchase it from?
do it gloss black, V,nice, get the paint from halfords
Is there a name of the paint i need to get, just don't want to go in and get the wrong one! I have cloth grey seats btw.
Also are my steps correct?
this paint?:
20 pound set on ebay is steaming away at 60 plus postage at 20 quid right this second.
2 other options though. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BMW-E46-3-SERI...3%3A1|294%3A50
Saying nothing about this one though. Pick the right one it will probably look ok. pick the wrong one though.....................
that 2nd will never look o.k its the cheap chav option imo
I'm 100% going to refurbish the trim myself now, just need to decide on a colour. Currently leading towards gloss black, but anyone have any other suggestions?
Also Craig you got any pics of your trim in gloss black?
Kev, I'll be doing the same soon as I make a bezel for my screen - keep us updated on how you get on.
Craig - How many tins of paint/primer etc did you need to do the whole trim?
I was thinking about gloss black aswell but also like the look of the silver but it's one of those situations where it would be best to see it in the car to be able to make a decision (might have to have a play with paintshop)
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Member since 12/10/2013
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Reviews & Stories
Excellent Doctor and Staff - Newport Beach, CA
I met with Dr. Sundine and his assistant, Toni (RN). They were both excellent and I loved their professionalism as well as their empathy and compassion. After having done a lot of research in terms of finding just the right plastic surgeon...he is the one. He has wonderful credentials and I like all of his training in the pediactric area. READ MORE


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Municipal Animal Services strives to foster a safe environment where people and pets can live in harmony by:
On November 10, 2015, Regional Council adopted By-Law A-700 Respecting Animals and Responsible Pet Ownership. Please find below a few frequently asked questions about the new By-Law.
What opportunity was the public given to provide input into the proposed By-Law changes?
Have the powers of Animal Control Officers changed with this new By-Law?
What are the new rules regarding licensing?
Is there now a rule regarding the length of leashes?
How does the new By-Law address noise complaints due to barking?
What has been done to prevent livestock from running at large?
What are the new rules regarding the feeding of birds and waterfowl?
What opportunity was the public given to provide input into the proposed By-Law changes?
The process for adoption of a By-Law is a formal process, as required by law, for which notice of motion is given, 1st reading is given (providing all the details of the proposed By-Laws), an advertisement is placed and a public hearing is held (if required) prior to adoption of the By-law.
In regard to By-Law A-700 Respecting Animals and Responsible Pet Ownership, a Notice of Motion was given at Regional Council on October 6, 2015 which indicated the intention to adopt the new By-Law. The 1st reading of the report and by-law occurred on October 20, 2015 and notice of the Regional Council public hearing was advertised on Saturday October 24th in the Chronicle Herald. On November 10, 2015 the public hearing was held and the By-Law was adopted by Council.
It is also important to note By-Law A-700 was created in response to multiple motions of Regional Council from 2009 to 2013, requesting amendments to By-Law A-300.
Have the powers of Animal Control Officers changed with this new By-Law?
The new By-Law has not altered the powers of Compliance Officers (formerly known as Animal Control Officers). As has always been the case, these officers are not armed. The legislation simply provides the Compliance Officer with the discretion to contact other Peace Officers (i.e. Halifax Regional Police or RCMP) that have the ability/authority to assist with severe Public Safety situations.
What are the new rules regarding licensing?
The municipality now offers pet owners the option of a lifetime licence for an animal with a microchip. The one-time cost is $200, with a reduced rate of $75 for spayed or neutered animals. Seniors receive a 50 per cent discount.
Pet owners can still opt to renew pet licences annually, but the annual licence will now expire 12 months from the date of purchase rather than expiring every year at the end of March. This means there will no longer be pro-rated cost if the licence is bought throughout the year.
Is there now a rule regarding the length of leashes?
There was previously no limit on the length of a leash. With the introduction of By-Law A-700, leashes can now no longer exceed three metres (10-feet). Extendable leashes are permitted, however the walker must just ensure they only allow it to reach the three-meter limit. The leash also must be held securely by a person.
How does the new By-Law address noise complaints due to barking?
The municipality's practise for addressing barking complaints remains the same. Animal Services will not issue tickets for complaints of one time barking. The fine amount for a noise violation has not changed from the previous legislation. It is $200, therefore the Summary Offense ticket would be $352.50.
The previous By-Law had a 20-minute provision which did not address a large number of complaints received by Animal Services (e.g. a dog barks for 15 minutes every morning at 5:30 for a 2 week period). Under the new By-Law an investigation still requires complainants to complete a "Barking Log" over a minimum period of 7 to 10 days. This log forms part of the evidence of the investigation and assists officers with determining what if any enforcement is warranted. Details of a barking complaint are provided to the dog owner and they are provided the opportunity to respond to the complaint with their own statement. The results of the review by Animal Services rarely result in proceedings towards charges or fines.
What has been done to prevent livestock from running at large?
Wherever livestock, including poultry, is currently permitted in the municipality, By-Law A-700 requires owners to ensure the animals are prevented from running at large. The legislation also gives authority to issue orders to build and or repair a structure to contain the livestock.
What are the new rules regarding the feeding of birds and waterfowl?
The new By-Law prohibits the feeding of waterfowl on lands abutting or adjacent to all lakes.


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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!
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Suspension overhaul: diagnosis, parts selection, DIYs, torque values, links and tips
I am definitely an amateur mechanic and I would do extensive reading on these subjects beyond this post. As some e46Fanatics would say, when you've read to the point you feel like you're going to puke, you understand what you need to know. My previous experience includes a little bit of work on a Ford Taurus and on my current car: VANOS, oil filter housing gasket, water pump, and rear brake pads.
I never really found a single, comprehensive post on new suspensions that included all the "little parts," all the DIYs you need, and research/reviews for all the required new parts. I tried to do that here and be as comprehensive as possible.
I wrote this to the level of even the most amateur of mechanics, but the torque values, part numbers, new part research/reviews, and a couple other things may be useful to more experienced e46Fanatics.
My car
I have a 2005 e46 330Ci ZHP with 62k mi and 20k are from me. In terms of suspension, a ZHP has a few minor differences, which are noted here and in the other sections:
Metal inner front control ball joints
Slightly thicker sway bars
Sport shock/coils/struts, which many non-ZHPs also have
This post should be useful to you no matter which e46 model you have.
Generally speaking, the suspension components work together to smooth out your ride, maintain smooth travel of the wheels up and down, maintain alignment, minimize body role and minimize noise. Since the suspension is constantly moving while the car is in motion, you'll notice that almost all the metal components are mated together via a metal-rubber-metal combination of components. The rubber prevents noise and significantly affects the smoothness of the ride. (Racers and enthusiasts replace many of these rubber components with metal or polyurethane aftermarket parts, which are stiffer but offer greater responsiveness via less flex.
Lots of great suspension info here: http://farnorthracing.com/autocross_secrets6.html
Thank You!
Huge thanks to many e46Fanatics, who I have tried to give credit where credit is due, and also ModBargains.com (Gilbert), bimmerworld.com (Bryan), PowerFlexUSA.com and oembimmerparts.com. Gilbert was especially helpful and answered many emails and phone calls for even the dumbest questions. Also, thank you to Silver Spring (formerly Tischer) BMW just north of DC. $60 for all new nuts and bolts is a really good deal compared to the $130 I was looking at from other dealerships around here. They do not quite fit the 'stealership' stereotype given to most dealerships. You can order discounted parts from them online, too (see link below.) Thanks to everyone listed here, I saved a ton of money and was able to come up w/the right combination of OEM and aftermarket parts for longevity, performance, and ride comfort.
Before trying to diagnose and DIY, it's important to understand where you're starting from, i.e. the stock OEM e46 suspension.
The stock OEM e46 suspension components
FRONT e46 suspension components
Front only. This is a shock/coil spring combo assembled as a single unit. They can be assembled by the manufacturer (e.g. BMW or a H&R Cup Kit) or they can be assembled by the home mechanic/dealer/independent shop if the shocks and coil springs were purchased independently of each other, e.g. Koni FSD shocks combined with H&R coils.
Front Control Arms (FCA)
These affect alignment and act as a guide when your wheels move up and down over bumps in the road. They contain an inner ball joint, an outer ball joint, and a Front Control Arm Bushing (FCAB). The inner ball joint typically needs replacement anywhere from 30k-100k, although inner ball joints on ZHPs are part metal and tend to last longer.
See #5: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...53&hg=31&fg=05
Front Control Arm Bushing (FCAB)
The FCAB is oil filled and almost guaranteed to go bad between 30k and 75k (mine went at 61k). When these go bad, things are worse than ever.
Rubber part inside of #6 (not labeled with a number): http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...53&hg=31&fg=05
In this diagram, #1: http://store.powerflexusa.com/bmw-e4...ings-p112.aspx
FCAB Housing
This is the metal housing for the FCAB and it joins the FCAB to the car's frame.
See #6: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...53&hg=31&fg=05
Stabilizer/Sway Bar
The sway bar helps prevent body roll when turning. An upgraded sway bar typically results in less body roll, and these very much affect understeer and oversteer so figure out what you're doing if you upgrade. I didn't upgrade because I didn't want to change the factory understeer/oversteer...yet.
See #1: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...17&hg=31&fg=10
Stabilizer/Sway Bar Mounts
These are the polymer (rubber) attachment points for the sway bar to the Frame.
See #2: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...17&hg=31&fg=10
See #2: http://store.powerflexusa.com/bmw-e4...ings-p112.aspx
Sway Bar Linkage/End Links/Swing Supports
These attach the sway bar to the front struts.
See #5: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...17&hg=31&fg=10
Spring Pad
These are rubber and mate the bottom of the coil spring to the shock and the top of the coil spring to the spring plate/perch (#7).
See #11 and #8: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...08&hg=31&fg=10
Spring Plate/Perch
These are the metal (rigid) support that are used to hold the compressed coil spring to the top of the shock. They have a bearing that allows the strut to swivel and prevents torquing of the strut during turning.
See #7: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...08&hg=31&fg=10
Inner/Outer Tie Rods
This is a steering component that is commonly replaced with the suspension components listed here. Tie rods are linked to the steering column/steering wheel and push the steering knuckles (and wheels) left and right. The end of the outer tie rod has a rubber joint that tends to go bad. The inner tie rod has a ball joint. It's made entirely of metal, but most people replace both inner and outer tie rods because by the time you replace the out tie rod joint or any of the suspension parts listed here, your inner tie rod will have taken a significant amount of wear and tear, too. Since new tie rods and suspension require an alignment ($180-$270 at the dealer), many people replace their tie rods while doing all this other work. If you don't replace the tie rods and they fail soon after replacing the suspension, you'll have to pay for another alignment. I bit the bullet because knowing the typical OEM rubber fittings, they probably aren't going to last a whole lot longer. If you have someone else do your work, it's also a lot cheaper to have them replace the tie rods if they're already working on the suspension.
See #4 and #10: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...40&hg=32&fg=25
REAR e46 suspension components
Located separate from the coil springs in the rear of the car. These provide damping, i.e. prevents your car from bouncing after the initial compression of the coil spring over a bump. Without these, your car would look like an old Buick that bounces down the road.
See #1: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...25&hg=33&fg=45
Coils/coil springs/springs
Located separate from the shocks in the rear.
See part between #15 and #18: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...25&hg=33&fg=45
Rear shock mounts (RSM)
The rear shocks require a small rubber mount, gasket, and several washers to mount the top of the shock to the frame of the car. RSMs typically come with the gasket, washers, and any other parts needed for mounting the top of the shock to the frame.
See #6 through #14: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...25&hg=33&fg=45
I started looking into suspension problems in my e46 when the cornering just didn't feel as crisp as it did when I first got the car 20k ago (40k at the time). The car became much noisier over bumps. Some e46Fanatics claim to hear 'clunking' and others claim that the car doesn't maintain it's line well, particularly in windy or high speed conditions. I'm sure there are many other symptoms, but the bottom line is if you suspect suspension issues, they're probably starting to develop so do some of these inspections as they are very simple. Also, if you're not sure if your suspension is developing problems, you'll know it in another couple hundred miles by the way it drives - the handling will deteriorate rapidly. I'm not advising this over an inspection (by you or a mechanic), but that's basically what happened to me.
Related link about vulnerable e46 points from Stinger 9: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=896234
Shocks/coil springs/struts
Begin with a bounce test. Look this up on Google - it's not the most reliable test, especially for an amateur mechanic, but if you have a real shock/strut/coil problem, you'll be able to tell. My rear end felt like the coil springs were shot and sagging too much (the appearance of the height of the car also confirmed this). I pushed down on the rear bumper and then stood in the trunk, pushing my weight down. I think I bottomed out the car pretty easily and it just didn't feel smooth/normal.
Also, you may be able to see hydraulic fluid running down the rear shocks (Google image this)...time for replacement.
And the most sure fire way of dianosing the shocks and springs is this. Before jacking up the rear, remove the rear shock mount bolts (inside the trunk - see DIYs below). Jack up the rear and remove the rear wheels. You can see if a spring is cracked or broke. Then, manually compress the shock. When I did this, the shock didn't spring back up...time for replacement. With the front wheels off (or just jack up the front to create some space), you can manually inspect the springs and look for hydraulic fluid leaks.
Front Control Arms (FCA) Ball Joints
I can't confirm this diagnosis method as I think my ball joints are still in good condition, but I read somewhere that if you jack the car up, grip the wheel at the 12 and 6 o'clock position, and shake hard, you'll be able to feel play when there should be no play whatsover. Many e46Fanatics seem to figure out that their ball joints were shot after removing their FCAs to replace the FCABs.
Front Control Arm Bushings (FCAB)
These are among the most failure prone e46 suspension components and worn FCABs will significantly affect corning, noise, and ride comfort. While your car is still raised from the FCA ball joint inspection, grip the wheel at the 9 and 3 o'clock position and shake hard. I actually heard 'clunking' and could see my front control arm shaking back and forth. Just imagine the wear and tear on the FCAB housing and bolts when you're driving down the road...time for replacement
Stabilizer/Sway Bar Mounts
Like all the other e46 suspension components, these go bad, too. See a trend? Excess wear is obvious from a visual inspection. The holes in the rubber where the bar passes through will be stretched out.
Sway Bar Linkage/End Links/Swing Supports
I think mine were fine, but I read that worn end links are obvious if you grab a hold of the end of the sway bar and shake hard. Then, try shaking the end links and feel for play, too.
Rear Trailing Arm Bushing (RTAB)
I never found diagnosis instructions for these but they're known to go bad between 30k and 40k.
Parts List
I replaced all of the parts above with the exception of:
Sway Bars
I think many on here would argue that I should just get new ones because it is the most bang for the buck component, you maximize the potential of upgraded shocks/coils/struts, and you can feel the difference in body roll when cornering. I hadn't done the research on understeer/oversteer yet and didn't want to spend anymore money at this point.
Spring pads and front spring perches
My suspension choice did not require these because they were a different design altogether. Many people reuse these if they fit.
Front strut mount
Like many people, I just reused these. Racers who want to adjust the camber use camber plates instead.
Front and Rear strut braces (not an OEM part)
Some e46Fanatics recommended these but I didn't buy them at the time of this writing.
Final parts list:
Struts (came with new, shorter sway links)
Front control arms
Front control arm bushing (FCAB)
FCAB housing
Tie rods
Front tower reinforcement (because the stock frame is not designed to handle a stiffer/stronger-than-stock suspension)
Coils/coil springs/springs
Spring perches (because the stock frame is not designed to handle a stiffer/stronger than stock suspension)
Rear shock mounts (RSM)
Rear trailing arm bushing (RTAB)
Wheel spacers and hub extensions
Pics from Gilbert/ModBargains:
Spring perches http://www.rebmw.com/mm5/graphics/00.../rein1_300.jpg
What can happen without spring perches
What can happen without RSMs http://www.rogueengineering.com/mm5/...m_fail_300.jpg
Note: Turner Motorsport makes various reinforcement kits that are probably wise to install. They're custom metal plates that are designed to be welded to the existing frame.
Parts Selection
There are a decent number of people out there who believe in the BMW design and would practically think it is a sin to put any non-OEM part on their car. As an engineer, I definitely appreciate the engineering and design work that goes into the Ultimate Driving Machine, but I just couldn't justify replacing parts that fail so soon with the exact same parts.
There are many options and opinions out there on the best e46 suspension parts. These decisions ultimately depend on your driving preferences, driving conditions, and location. Organized reviews of different setups can be found here (thanks FreeRide1645):
non-xi e46's http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...192&highlight=
xi e46's (Not sure about the link - anyone else know this?)
The options seem to fall in several categories:
You know what they feel like and you know they were designed exactly for your model, but they don't last long enough and are pricey compared to other options with better performance.
Cup kit
At ~$650 from H&R, you get the same (or better?) performance than stock and some lowering.
Shock/coil combo
There are many choices out there - the shocks I came across the most were Koni Yellows and Koni FSD. Eibach springs seem to be the most popular, although I was considering going with Yellows/OEM springs to maintain the stock ride height. UUC also had many good reviews, but I did not look into their setups. The combo route for good shocks and springs is going to run $800+ unless you get a deal.
This type of suspension was formerly available on race cars only. They offer the best combination of performance and ride quality, and start at $850 (www.bavauto.com). A common argument is why go with anything else when these are not much more expensive. They have adjustable ride height and the springs and shocks are perfectly tuned to match each other. I considered Suspension Techniques Variant 1 (ST V1) and Bilstein PSS, both around $1050.
These were my concerns and what led me to the ST V1s:
I was really just looking to gain the stock performance back, or better as long as I was replacing parts. I do not track my car and the ST V1s seemed to be one of the best coilovers for daily driving and spirited driving.
Ride height
I didn't want to go much lower than the stock height. I also don't prefer the aggressive look with a lower front end - I wanted to stay level. I read somewhere that the ZHP package lowers the car by .75" (can anyone confirm?) from the stock e46 in the front and rear. According to http://www.bimmerfest.com/wiki/index...rmance_Package the ZSP package has the same springs so I assume the ZSP height is the same as the ZHP height. The ST V1s have adjustable height of 1.2"-2.8" in the front and 1.2"-2.0" in the rear. This equals .45" lower than stock at the highest height.
Ride comfort
The consensus on this site and from Gilbert at ModBargains.com seemed to be that the ST V1s are more comfortable for daily driving than the Bilstein PSS', but have equivalent or better performance.
The ST V1s are the same as the KWs (and built by KW), but the ST V1s have some parts made of high grade galvanized steel while these same parts in the KWs are made of stainless steel. As a result, the ST V1s are $300-$400 cheaper. Gilbert said he wouldn't recommend the ST V1s to e46 owners in Canada and the northern states and that I would probably be OK here in DC/Northern VA. I was OK with the ST V1s knowing that I wash the undercarriage of my car regularly in the winter.
Front Control Arms (FCA), Front Control Arm Bushing (FCAB) and FCAB housing
Meyle HD appears is the gold standard for FCAs.
There is a lot of debate between PowerFlex polyurethane bushings, Meyle HD, and well, not many people go with the oil filled OEM bushing. They fail too quickly. Once all the oil leaks out, you're in for a choppy ride. Those who went with PowerFlex have a wide range of opinions, and some even went so far as to remove them soon after installing them. My main concern was sacrificing ride comfort. What I gathered is that the ride comfort for the passengers remains unchanged, but the feedback from the road is greater through the steering wheel.
I bought the FCAB pre-installed into the housing because as someone with limited experience doing all these jobs at once, I wanted to save myself a little time and effort.
Total cost: $440 including shipping from bimmerworld.com
Sway Links
These came with the new ST V1's - they're shorter than stockc.
Stabilizer/Sway Bar Mounts
I did not replace these at the time of this writing, but I plan to soon.
Tie Rods
Meyle HD appears to be the gold standard. They're $130 with free shipping at oembimmerparts.com and they arrived in 2 days.
Rear Shock Mounts (RSM), Rear Spring Perches and Front Tower Reinforcment
I believe Gilbert at ModBargains.com steered me in the right direction for buying all the important extra parts beyond the ST V1s, i.e. spring perches, front tower reinforcement, and RSMs. The RSMs and spring perches he sent me are Rogue Engineering and the front tower reinforcement has a sticker that says 'BMW Group' so I assume they are OEM. See #13 here: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...08&hg=31&fg=10.
Rear Trailing Arm Bushings (RTAB)
It seems like most e46Fanatics go with PowerFlex or OEM M3 RCABs with spacers/limiters by Vorshlag (www.vorshlag.com). I went with the later for the reasons described on Vorshlag's website, which I verified at several other racing sites.
Nuts and bolts
Most manuals, including TIS, recommend that you replace all the nuts and bolts when doing any job on your car. Some of the nuts are lock nuts and should definitely be replaced. These were for my car and you should to double check the part numbers at realOEM.com for your model:
Wheel spacers and hub extension
After installing everything, I learned that my rims were rubbing . I went with 5mm H&R spacers and TMS hub extensions in the front and 12mm H&R spacers in the rear. I haven't received them in the mail so I can't comment on the look yet.
Info on wheel spacers and hub extensions: http://www.turnermotorsport.com/t-wh...yclopedia.aspx
Price: ~$250 but varies depending on brand and size
33306760652 Front control arm bushing housing bolts (4)
07119904295 Sway bar bushing support nuts (4)
31306779487 Bolts for attaching bottom of front struts to steering knuckle (2)
33306760587 Nuts for attaching sway bar support/linkage to front struts (2) (came with ST V1s)
31316769731 Nuts for attaching front strut mounts to frame (6)
33326760386 Bolts for attaching rear control arm bushing housing (6)
33326760389 Bolts for rear control arm bushings (2)
33326760668 Nuts for rear control arm bushings (2)
07119900402 Bolts for attaching rear shocks (2)
I bought the nuts/bolts from Silver Spring (formerly Tischer) BMW for $60. (Thanks, Tony!) MSRP is $130 so if your dealership charges you MSRP, Tischer is still a lot cheaper includiong shipping: http://www.trademotion.com/parts/?ac...2&make=&model=
Price for RSMs, rear spring perches, front tower reinforcement, and ST V1s: $1208.41
(Not including any sway bar parts or strut braces)
DIYs and other tips
Socket set going at least up to 19mm plus 21mm and 22mm sockets (21 is stock stut rod nut and 22 is aftermarket strut nut)
Torch if you have bad rust
Whatever you use to jack up your car - I use a floor jack, the OEM jack, floor stands, and 2x6's
RTAB specialty tool - rent one from an e46Fanatic (search: RTAB Tool) or buy one, e.g. http://www.mistools.net/shop/article...1%26aid%3D1%26
Pickle fork/ball joint separator for FCA ball joints (Note I used these tools and they did NOT work well: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...questid=832135)
For FCABs, research DIYs if you're reusing your FCAs and installing new FCABs in their housings - this requires several special tools
Spring compressors
Copper anti-seize compound (RTAB)
Grease (wheels)
Hub grinder (sander) or sandpaper
Order of Work
1. Pre-work in the couple days before the installs.
2. Replace all parts except tie rods and RTABs
3. After car settles, replace tie rods and RTABs and then get an alignment immediately. Installing new tie rods and RTABs will alter the alignment more than any other parts and it's best not to drive around with bad alignment while the suspension is settling. These two parts do not need time to settle like the springs do.
On two different days while I was researching and waiting for parts, I used WD-40 to help loosen some bolts and the wheels. I sprayed all the bolt threads being careful not to spray any rubber pieces (although most of them were getting replaced***8230. Chemicals aren't good for them. I sprayed where the rims meet the rotors by poking the WD-40 tube between the rim spokes. I also took off the wheel caps to spray where the rims meet the rotors.
Wheels and wheel spacers
Per the TIS, be sure to keep the wheel holes lined up with the holes in the brake disks. Also, put the lug nuts back in their same holes. To do this, before jacking up the car, I aligned the tire stem so it's at the bottom (per the TIS). When removing the lug nuts, I noted which holes they were in with respect to the wheel. When reinstalling the wheel, I kept the stem at the bottom and spun the brake disks so the holes were lined up again. For my car, I knew where to position the brake disk because the pattern on the back of the rim was slightly different around the allen screw in the brake disc. The rust pattern allowed me to know how to line up the brake disc. Per the TIS, DO NOT put any chemicals (lube, oil, etc.) between the rim, brake discs, and spacers. DO apply a thin layer of grease exactly where the rim meets the hub, but not anywhere else on the rim. Also, when using the spacers, you'll want to get the surfaces of the rim and brake disc that meet perfectly smooth so the spacers fit flush to these surfaces - otherwise, you'll get wheel wobble. Use a drill and wheel hub grinder (I just used sandpaper) to get the rust off the rim and brake disc. The portions of the disc surfaces that had a lot of rust had to be sanded down quite a bit. Using my fingers, I was able to tell when the disc surface was smooth throughout. It's not the most technical, but it worked.
I'm not going to reinvent the wheel with DIYs.
Shocks/struts DIYs
Bilstein PSS9 install: http://www.my330i.com/mod10.php
From 5speedsteve: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=407443
I used this DIY the most, except I found that I didn't have to unscrew the nuts for the outer tie rod in order to remove the front struts.
Notes on the rear suspension DIY
I didn't need a spring compressor to install the new springs. Also, despite what some say, it's not hard to install the springs with the adjuster on top (per the instructions) instead of below, and then set the height. To do this, adjust the adjuster so the ride height is relatively low. Pull down on the brake/hub assembly and put the springs in. Again, with one hand, push down on the brake/hub assembly and with the other hand manually adjust the adjuster. Pushing down on the brake/axle assembly creates enough height in there that you can adjust the adjuster by hand.
There is some black insulation around both rear shock mounts. This stuff is extremely fragile and breaks apart very easily. I destroyed the first one by accident. On the second one, I used a knife to carefully cut a nice circle around the strut mount so then the insulation was in two pieces instead of a million. When I was done, I just duct taped the piece back on. Yes, the integrity was sacrificed a little, but it's a lot cleaner then shredding the insulation and probably a lot easier then actually removing it in one piece. If you try to remove them completely and in one piece, there's a lot of extra parts particularly around the battery side, and there's not a lot of room to work with anyway. It seemed like more hassle than it was worth.
Notes on the front suspension DIY
With the ST V1's (or KW V1's), the dimple at the bottom of the strut goes in the slot in the steering knuckle clamp. This keeps the strut positioned properly. The diameter of the strut increases slightly as you go up the strut. If you use a jack to jack up the steering knuckle up into the strut, the strut will naturally come to rest where it's supposed to in the steering knuckle.
Also, you have to figure out a way to tighten the 22mm nut on the top of the coilover because the strut shaft spins as you tighten the nut. I couldn't fit an open ended wrench on the nut because the strut swivel/mount was in the way. I ended up jamming a 7mm open end wrench between the nut and the swivel and using an allen wrench to turn the strut shaft. Maybe some people on here can weigh in on an easier way of doing this... I've read that using an impact gun in few, very short spurts works, but some say that it could damage the seals at the bottom of the piston rod. Others used something like a vice grip with a rag, but I don't know how safe this is for the piston rod.
FCA and FCAB DIYs (from the e46Fanatics DIY collection threads)
FCA: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=421918
FCAB: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=140066
I was fairly concerned with how to know where to position the FCABs an the FCAs. The TIS has you measure a 290.9mm from the center of the inner ball joints to the edge of the FCAB housing, but this didn't make sense when I made the measurement on the Meyle FCA. This is possibly why a couple e46Fanatics' indy shops don't like these FCAs because they say that the dimensions of the Meyle FCAs are not the same as the OEM FCAs. Regardless...Bryan at Bimmerworld told me that once I install and tighten the FCAs/FCABs/FCAB housings, the FCABs will position themselves. This worked perfectly fine, and it makes sense when you consider the bushing design. The FCA fits fairly loosely on the FCAB.
The ball joints will need to be tightened at first with an allen wrench and open ended wrench. Once they're snug, you can tighten the nuts with a torque wrench and the ball joints won't spin. You can't get to the passenger side inner ball joint unless you have a crow's foot wrench and an elbow or something like that. I didn't bother with it.
Front Tower Reinforcement
These go on top of the strut swivel/mount and under the strut tower (in the wheel well)
Spring Perch Location (thanks Gilbert/Modbargains.com)
These came with good instructions, although you'll probably need a crow's foot wrench to apply the proper torque to the center nut at the top of the shock. I didn't bother.
Rear Trailing Arm Bushings (RTAB) and RTAB Vorshlag limiters
http://www.vorshlag.com/instructions.php (scroll down)
Pull the old RTABs out towards the outside of the car! The RTABS will not pull out of the trailing arm towards the drivetrain/differential. I found this out the hard way and broke an RTAB tool. I believe the diameter of the RTAB changes slightly, even though it looks the same throughout.
Tie Rods
TIS: "To avoid damage to rack and to suspension mounting, move rack in as far as possible."
TIS torque values - FCA
FCA to steering knuckle nut: 65Nm/47.94lb-ft
FCA to frame/chassis nut: 90Nm/66.38lb-ft
FCAB housing bolts: 59Nm/43.52lb-ft
TIS torque values - Front Struts
Strut to steering knuckle bolt: 81Nm/59.74lb-ft
Three nuts that attach at the top of the strut tower: 34Nm/25 lb-ft
Sway link to strut: 65Nm/47.94
TIS torque values - Rear Shocks/Springs
Rear shock mount nuts (factory and Rogue Engineering): 28Nm/20.65lb-ft
Upper shock bolt (with Rogue Engineering mounts): 11lb-ft
Lower shock bolt: 100Nm/73.76lb-ft in "Normal Position"
TIS torque values - RTAB
Trailing arm to front bracket (bolt that goes through RTAB): 110Nm/81lb-ft
Trailing arm front bracket to body (3 bolts): 77Nm/57lb-ft
TIS torque values - Tie Rods
Tie rod to steering knuckle nut: 65Nm/47.94lb-ft
Tie rod to steering rack: 100+10Nm / 73.76+7.38lb-ft
Tie rod clamping nut (I believe this is the nut that is used to secure the length of the inner and outer tie rods?): 45Nm/33.19lb-ft
Spring settling and height adjustment
Wait until your suspension settles before getting an alignment. You'll know when the springs have stopped settling if you measure from the fender edge to the bottom of each rim (TIS) or center cap (ST V1 instructions) and these values stop changing.
For the front suspension, I jacked up one side and used the tool that came with the ST's to make adjustments with the wheel still attached. For the rear suspension, it was a PITA, but I raised one side slightly, removed the bottom shock bolt, raised the car higher, and then adjusted the spring adjuster as described above.
I'm still waiting for the wheel spacers to arrive so the car is out of commission for another few days. I probably won't push it until I get it aligned...reviews coming soon.
Last edited by astonmartini03; 04-23-2012 at 06:35 PM.
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Thanks, will be doing my FCABs soon
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Amazing write-up and a great help to other e46 members in this situation!
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This is incredible. Great job and thanks. I'm about to do some of this, now thinking of doing the whole smash as well. For $1,840 in parts you probably saved $5K or more by DIYing it. My dealership wants $900 just for the differential bushings.
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Great write up, five stars for you
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Thanks, all.
Kimaamja - I forgot to include the price of wheel spacers, hub extensions, and bolts in that total so tack on another $250 to that $1840...
Also, in the 'stock e46 suspension' section in the original post, I forgot to include a bunch of bushings that are in the rear. When I started doing the rear springs/shocks, I noticed that at least one of them was shot. There are four on each side - #'s 2, 3, 6, and 14: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...40&hg=33&fg=30
I'm not planning on replacing them because they probably affect your suspension less than any of the above mentioned parts, and I'm generally tired of wrenching on her right now.
Overall, I really like the new setup. At slow speeds, the springs are softer than stock and above 30mph, their comfort is about equivalent to stock. The combination of new struts and FCABs provides a little more feedback through the steering wheel, but is no less comfortable for passengers. I didn't like this at first, but now that I'm used to it, I like it more. I'm experiencing less body roll around turns, and I haven't even installed the new sway bar bushings yet.
Aesthetics - I started out a little lower than I had hoped, but I really like the dropped look. ST says the V1's are .75" lower than stock and I currently have them at .5" lower than the max height in the front (total drop = 1.25") and roughly the same in the back. Somehow the car still has an agressive stance even though the wheel gap in the front is much greater. I'd like an equally dropped height all the way around and before I get an alignment later this week, I will probably raise the car so it doesn't look like the body is resting on the rear wheels. Even at the current height, it does not look aftermarkety at all. The wheel spacers (5mm/12mm) did no change the look very much, and the average person couldn't tell the difference.
I have one complaint or...something I'm not sure about. The ST V1's have two spring types in the front - a smaller set for small bumps and then the main, stiffer set. With the smaller spring set, you do get the added benefit of a comfy ride, but I would question how the entry and exits of corners compares to say...the Bilstein PSS'. The Bilsteins are equally stiff throughout. When entering corners with the ST V1's, I get a slight rocking of the car to the outside, which is the small spring set compressing completely, before I get firm cornering from the stiffer spring set. Notice the two spring sizes on the strut on the left: http://www.modbargains.com/ST-Suspen...0232-90233.htm
I haven't decided yet if I like this transition from the smaller springs to the larger springs when entering corners. If possible, I would recommend you drive an e46 with the suspensions you're considering before pulling the trigger. Don't get me wrong - I love the new ST V1's, but I do wonder if I would've been willing to sacrifice a little bit of ride comfort for potentially improved cornering with the Bilsteins.
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Good writeup, I kind of just skimmed but is this also applicable for awd models?
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There are some differences that are highlighted elsewhere on this site.
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Suspension Upgrade
Many Thanks! I will look your recommended vendors.
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text: Been curious how Jenna Jameson has fared since going batshit a few years ago? The short answer is, about the same, as evidenced by these pics celebrating her upcoming birthday at the Crazy Horse Club in Vegas. Though I guess the shaved green hair isn't that much worse than the latest Miley Cyrus or Amanda Bynes concoction of insanity. Then again Jenna was pioneering hitting bottom in public way before the likes of those lightweights. From the looks of it, I'd say Jenna is experiencing a prolonged stay on the bottom rung. I'm still not certain what the hell drove her over the edge, be it the drugs or the abusive MMA fighters. Whatever it was, I think it's pretty clear that Jenna is exiting her 30s a lot different than when she entered them. Then again, such is the case with most of us in her position. Though I hope someone slaps some sense into me if I develop the urge for green hair at some point between now and 40.


text:
Home > Asus Eee 1215b and 1215n Trackpad Problems
Roughly a week ago I received my new Asus 1215n netbook. It's the fourth Asus Eee I've had and my favourite, thus far. The only complaint I have is that the trackpad malfuncations at least once a day. It only wants to move on the vertical and when I tap to click it reacts as thought I've right-clicked.
I consulted the internet and found out that many other people had had this problem. They were told by Asus to reinstall drivers to no avail. Then a few industrious souls opened up their machines to move a couple of pads beneath the trackpad and that worked. Well, that worked for me, as well. For a little more than a day.
Several people returned their 1215ns and received replacements. That had the exact same problem. It's clearly a construction problem. No other Asus Eee has the same specs so I'm keeping this one. I'm just using an external mouse now.
Instructions on how to move the pads beneath the trackpad:
1. On the bottom of your computer you'll need to remove two screws. One on the upper left and one on the right.
2. Use a credit card (technique shown at the 05:30 mark of this video) to pop the small tabs up all along the edge of the palm rest area, including along the keyboard. This piece will want to slide upwards towards the screen a small amount while being removed. Do not try to completely disconnect the palm rest, as it's connected to the computer by a cable.
3. Move the grey/silver pads to the right:
–Some people completely removed the top grey/silver pad for success. (I did and it was a permanent fix.)
This information came from this site.


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We offer observations on the human condition from a 21 year old mind trapped in an 81 year old body.
To be human is to wonder about fate. Fate doesn't
My heart is with all life forms in universe.
Woman alone in morning reading book. Solitude and peace on face.
To live with hate in heart is not to live.
Good deed, helped old lady by opening door.
Mystery of life: Cars parked outside business establishment, but no one inside.
I wonder if there are forms to fill out to enter Heaven.
My Depression mind thinks in terms of pennies saved.
A blond haired woman in tight jeans is, by definition, interesting.
Elderly women love patting head of bald men.
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I gaze at my hands which reveal age wondering if age ever halts in other ways than in death.
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Due to cost, I left my dentist for one who is cheaper.
I met a teacher who wanted to cut costs by firing government employees, he was shocked to realize that teachers are government employees.
I am satisfied with day old coffee.
I purchase a lottery ticket expecting that I MUST win
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Some slumber in realm of love, some in realm of anger.
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If I am not my brother and sister's keeper, who am I?
Some believe God speaks to them. I speak to myself and don't pester God.
It is an art to figure out which lane moves the fastest.