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ST. PAUL, Minn. - The Dakota State University's cross country teams had a stellar performance at the competitive Roy Griak Invitational Saturday. The event was hosted by the University of Minnesota. The Trojans participated in the Division II race. The race featured schools from NCAA Division II and top quality NAIA schools.
The Trojans had a huge day and placed fifth out of 22 teams with 155 points. The Trojans were the second NAIA school to finish in the top five. Concordia (Neb.) placed second.
NCAA Division II Southwest Baptist won the team title. Augustana (S.D.) placed third and Minnesota State-Mankato finished fourth. A total of 238 runners competed in the race.
Anthony Drealan was the top placer for the Trojans as he finished 12th in 26 minutes and 15 seconds. Tyler Van Peursem placed 16th in 26:18. Devon Berkness came in 34th (26:52).
Other Trojan finishers were: Matt Fideler, 45th, 27:13; Andrew Manning, 102nd, 28:11; John Bintliff, 138th, 28:56; Michael Hoffman, 170th, 29:43; Ben Harrison, 189th, 30:29; Kyle Sanderson, 194th, 30:48; Keith Huffman, 199th, 31:02 and Cody Foreman, 203rd, 31:07.
Similar to the men's, the Trojan women runners had a stellar performance and finished 15th in the race. The Trojans were just four points behind DAC foe Jamestown, 384-388. The Jimmies are ranked in the NAIA's Top 25. A total of 287 runners competed in the women's 6K race.
Trojan Stephanie Warnke placed 34th in 24 minutes and three seconds. Brittany Young finished 78th in 24:56. Samantha Warnke crossed the finish line in 100th place with a time of 25:09. Clarice Bauer finished 131st in 25:30. Suzanne Swett placed 145th in 25:41.
The Trojans will have a week off. Dakota State will compete in the Briar Cliff Invitational on Saturday, Oct. 10. The race will be held in McCook Lake, S.D. with the women's race at 10 a.m., men's to follow.
Nick Huntimer, Dakota State University Sports Information Director
Edited by Ariy-El Boynton, Madison Daily Leader Sports Editor


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2013 CEA Whitworth Award Winner: A Sustained Focus on Students on the Margins
After 15 years of teaching at a regional university in Northern Ontario, Dr. Tilleczek embarked on a research career to explore how and why socioeconomic status represents one of the greatest predictors of how well students do at school and later in life. In 2005, she joined a group of dedicated colleagues at the Hospital for Sick Children with whom she continues to work today as an adjunct research scientist.
"Early on, there was a social justice undercurrent to my research as I thought about how schools are treating students from low-socioeconomic situations and with mental health problems, including First Nations and immigrant youth," says Dr. Tilleczek. "In my research to date, a story has emerged from many years of studying young people and public education – and from my personal experiences – that schools needed to do much better for students on the margins and come to terms with how they contribute to the marginalization of today's youth."
Based on her previous research on early school leavers, student transitions from elementary to secondary school, and the issue of marginality, Dr. Tilleczek's current ambitious portfolio includes community school building processes that engage students and communities in developing curriculum in both inner city Toronto and in five aboriginal communities in Southern Chile. She is also leading an international study on the educational and social impacts of technology on young people, and is co-leading another project in each Atlantic province to study how youth and their families are moving through mental health systems.
"With the complexity of young peoples' social lives today, there are many teachers coming to me to say that mental health issues are the number one problem that kids are up against and they don't know what to do," says Dr. Tilleczek. "And you also can't overlook the incredible impact of technology on students' academic and social lives – both the good and bad of it."
Dr. Tilleczek's research and publications to date inform policymakers on why and how they should make important policy and practice changes to better the lives of young people.
The Whitworth Award Selection Committee was appreciative of Dr. Tilleczek's dedication to enhancing practice through careful theory building in education for the social well-being of children and youth in Canada and around the world.
"Dr. Tilleczek's work revolves around the biggest challenges that young people face in a modern world," says Dr. Michele Jacobsen, Chair of the Whitworth Award Nominations Committee. "We're fortunate to be able to look at these different aspects of their lives in such a compelling way through her compassionate lens."
Dr. Tilleczek will share one big idea from her research that will answer the question: What's standing in the way of change in education? at CEA's Calgary Conference on October 21st. (www.cea-ace.ca/Calgary2013). She will also be formally recognized with the 2013 CEA Whitworth Award and presenting alongside 2013 CEA Pat Clifford Award for Early Career Research co-winners, Dr. Steve Masson and Dr. Leyton Schnellart, as well as 2012 Clifford Award winner Dr. Michelle Hogue.
To access a bibliography of Dr. Tilleczek's work, please visit:
About the Whitworth Award
Since 1967, the Whitworth Award has recognized individuals who have made a sustained and substantial contribution to educational research over a period of time. It has been awarded since 1967 and is awarded every three years.
About the Canadian Education Association (CEA)
Founded in 1891, the Canadian Education Association (CEA) is a network of passionate educators advancing ideas for greater student and teacher engagement in public education. CEA does this by conducting research and spreading useful ideas through its publications, website, workshops, symposia, and social media channels, and supporting education systems to be more adaptive to the rapidly changing needs of all learners in an effort to reverse the trend of students 'tuning out' of their learning opportunities.
For more information:
Max Cooke
CEA Director of Communications (bilingual)
Twitter: @max_cooke
Dave Atkinson
Research Communications Officer

subset: commoncrawl


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Diamond Facts
|FAQs - General
Diamond Facts
Diamond Prices are affected by several factors - as a new buyer you should get some basic knowledge before buying. Ussually when buying an engagement diamond you do not need an investment stone - a good eye clean stone that sets up white is what will save you money. First time diamond buyers should have a look at my blog for some pointers and advice - first time diamond buyers
An Alternative to gold or platinum is titanium for an engagement ring - very hard and very durable - and of course, a lot less expensive. Diamonds are not always the gem choice for engagement rings - many people prefer the coloured stones - diamonds come in in many colours - but are expensive and rare. The diamond alternative is cubic zircinia or mossanaite.
Of course the natural coloured precious gems like Ruby, emerald and sapphire are beautiful. The other options are the semi precious gems - amethyst, garnet, tourmaline, topaz, citrene amongst others.
These are the different things that affect the cost of a diamond.
- The following guide assumes the Gemological Institute of America (G.I.A.) grading system. This is the worlds most recognized system of evaluating a diamonds quality and value. Each grade describes a different aspect of the diamond and it is only the sum total of all these characteristics which will determine if the diamond is a true gem or just a commercial grade.
- CARAT means weight (1 carat = 1/5 of a gram) A diamond weight is a very important factor to its cost. Many People think carat is a size but the size can vary on diamonds of the same weight. A badly cut diamond can be bigger or smaller than an ideal cut.
- The term "carat " originated from the seeds of the carob tree. These carob seeds are extremely uniform in eight and this made them the ideal weight unit for the ancient gem traders. This weight (one carob seed) as later standardized to be 1 carat, or 1/5th of a gram, hence a five carat diamond equals 1 gram and 155.51 carats equal one ounce.
- The one carat weight is then broken down into 100 equal parts called "points"; 75 points equal 3/4 of a carat, 50 points equal 1/2 of a carat, etc. The significance of the weight is like the other quality grades. Rarity, now by virtue of the diamonds size and weight. Out of 250 tons of diamond ore only a single one carat diamond of gem quality may be found. The value of weight a 100 point (1 full carat) diamond of VS-1 clarity and G body color is generally worth more than an identical VS-1, G color diamond with a weight of .99 carats (less than a full carat). A one point difference in a diamond can make a difference in value.Generally a diamond that weighs over 0.5ct is unreasonably more expensive than a 0.49ct - even though there is almsot no difference in weight.
- It is important to understand that the weight of a diamond and its physical size are two different things. Even if the only difference between the two diamonds is .01 carat. Take for example two (2) VS-1, G quality grade 1.00 carat diamonds to show the vast difference in value that the cut will make. One of these diamonds could have the Ideal 6.5 millimeter diameter size one would expect to see in for a 1.00 carat diamond. In the other example, the second 1.00 carat diamond may have only a 5.5 millimeter diameter. Because of this one millimeter diameter size difference, and yet the same carat weight, the smaller diameter diamond would be worth somewhere around 20% less than the Ideal cut diamond of the same weight and quality grade.
- These value differences will vary depending upon the size and quality grade of the diamond you may be interested in. This leads us to the fourth quality grade which is the diamonds cut. Every Diamond belongs in a weight grouping class for a range of weight where the prices per carat for each Color and Clarity group combination are listed. The main reason for this is obviously due to rarity in nature, but current market conditions at any specific time plays a very important role. Some sizes and shapes fall in and out of demand due to what is fashionable or considered affordable in society. Because of this, some size groupings for a given shape may have a higher demand and price per carat than one expects, given its rarity in nature.
- So to simplify, a diamond in the 1 carat class (1.00-1.49) usually costs more per carat than a diamond less than 1 carat in weight (0.90-0.99). A diamond that is 1 full carat in size, has a higher demand, which causes it to be priced higher. The result is rough stones that could possibly have been cut into beautiful smaller stones are usually cut into not so beautiful 1 full carat stones to get into the higher price range. There are other factors and trade-offs this is just a simplified answer to the reason the cost per carat goes up as the size goes up.
COLOR GRADING arbitrarily begins with "D" to avoid confusion. "A", "B", and "C" are assumed to not exist but there is room in the color range to allow for finding them. With grades "A", "AA", or "AAA" how do you know which one is the brightest white color? Diamonds are color graded by a gemologist against a master set of colors.
Color D - or blue white is the top color for a diamond - they are rare and expensive.
- G-H are very white & bright face-up colorless diamonds that are not as expensive, and when mounted in jewelry it is difficult to see the a difference between these and the higher grades.
- I-J are are not quite as bright or have very slight hardly noticeable tint.
- K-L have a slight tint even the average person will begin to notice.
- M or Lower the color will be noticed.
Each grade can have a 10-15% variance in it's price range for a given size group, down to M, and then it changes again depending on the Hue & Color for the Fancy Colored Diamonds.
Diamonds occur naturally in all spectral colors, from
red to blue, however the most commonly occurring colors are yellow and brown. The amount of color a diamond possesses is graded by an alphabetical scale D through Z. They began at D in case a whiter diamond was later found. Color & Cut are the two factors that influence a diamond's beauty the most.
Color should reflect one's tastes and budget. i.e.: You may be able to go with a higher color grade and lower clarity grade to suit your taste and stay within budget.
Diamonds of a colorless grade in the D-F range are much more valuable than diamonds in the L-P range because of the rarity of these colorless diamonds. This is not to say that the diamonds in the lower color range are not pretty, they can have just as much brilliancy and sparkle but with a stronger color tone. The effects of color to the cost of a diamond can be dramatic. Two diamonds of the same weight, clarity , size and shape can have a cost difference of over 100% for the difference between an F body color to a J body color . Color can only be graded accurately if the diamond is un-mounted or "loose" and it is highly recommended that the diamond be independently certified for its color as well as the other following quality grades. The color of your diamond will be simply a matter of personal taste and if you don't like the color - just plan to spend more money!
Another color factor to consider is Fluorescence, properly called photo-luminescence. Fluorescence is caused by a trace amount of the element boron found in the diamond. It is activated by UV light. Fluorescence in a diamond is usually described on a certificate (GIA, EGL, etc.) as None, Faint, Medium, Medium blue, Strong, Strong blue and Intense Blue. Other colors of fluorescence do occur, yellow and white for example (try to avoid them), but it is the blue we are most commonly involved with. In the old days people used to come looking for the perfect "blue-white" diamond.
The blue referred to the fluorescence and the white to the diamonds body color. Some people think diamonds exhibiting fluorescence is out of fashion, but Gems and Gemology (put out by GIA) GIA states that typically fluorescence is a plus in a diamond. Most people feel that fluorescence is beautiful and rare in a diamond, so in a few years fluorescent diamonds may be back in fashion and will demand a premium. If you want a diamond that exhibits fluorescence be sure you examine it under all light conditions, especially direct sunlight and a jewelers black light, since some fluorescent diamonds will actually become hazy in the sunlight and others will glow in a black light environment (including a dance floor) if the fluorescence is Intense (and sometimes Strong). With Strong or Intense fluorescence I advise you to fully examine the stone, each diamond will exhibit its own traits, and in many cases these traits will have a positive effect, often causing the diamond to have a little "extra life" in the sunlight. If you are dealing with a diamond of D, E, or F color, fluorescence is usually a negative since it won't make it look whiter, and may make it look a bit hazy in sunlight. On the other hand, if you are dealing with a diamond in G, H, I, J, or K color, fluorescence is normally a plus, and will whiten the diamond one or more grades, thereby increasing the diamonds beauty and desirability.
FANCY FANCY INTENSE VIVID * GIA = Gemological Institute of America.
* CIBJO = Confederation Internationale de la Bijouterie, Joaillsrie, Ortevrerie, des diamants, perles et pierres precieuses.
Dollar Cost effects of Fluorescence IF to VVS grades VS to SI grades I-1 to I-3 grades D E F colors strong -10%
moderate -5%
weak -0%
strong -5% to -10%
moderate 0% to -5%
weak -0%
-0% G H I J colors strong -5% to -10%
moderate -0% to -5%
weak -0%
strong -0% to -5%
moderate -0%
weak -0%
-0% K L M colors strong -0 to -5%
moderate -0%
weak -0%
strong -0%
moderate -0%
weak -0%
In plain terms clarity is simply how much "other elements" is inside the diamond crystal. The less the "rubbish" the more they cost. Most all of the diamonds mined have inclusions that are visible to the natural eye. Gems such as these are known as "eye clean", and are usually great for engagement stone.
This scale ranges from F to I-3. This entire scale can be divided in half, with diamonds that you can visually see the imperfections to the unaided eye, and diamonds that require 10 power magnification to see the imperfections. This division is at the I-1 clarity grade to the SI-2 clarity grade. The I-3 clarity grade will generally contain enough imperfection to dramatically reduce the amount of brilliancy and sparkle and should not be considered for "fine jewelry". However there can even be a good , as well as bad I-2 or I-1 clarity grade diamond. As an example a good I-1 clarity grade diamond would have an imperfection to the side which would be eye visible, however after being set would be covered by a prong or other feature of the setting. The less desirable I-1 clarity grade diamond would possess a very similar inclusion however because of its location would not be able to be hidden. An eye visible inclusion such as this would later prove to be a distraction to the beauty of the diamond. As with the color of the diamond , clarity is very much personal taste and if you don't like the number of imperfections - just plan to spend more money!
describes diamonds in which a gemologist under favorable lighting conditions, cannot see any inclusions at ten power magnification
describes diamonds which have no internal characteristics observable under the the same conditions as (FL), but which have minor surface blemishes that do not penetrate the stone.
describes diamonds that have very, very small inclusions which are difficult for a gemologist to see at 10x magnification.
describes stones with very small inclusions which can be difficult to observe with 10x magnification. Inclusions are barely visible to the unaided eye, except on some larger stones or large Emerald Cuts.
describes stones with small inclusions which are usually obvious when viewed with 10x magnification. Inclusions are difficult to see with the unaided eye, except on larger stones or occasionally with Emerald Cuts.
SI2 SI3 I1 IMPERFECT or PIQUE
describes stones with medium to large inclusions (Piques) which are usually obvious to a gemologist with the unaided eye. An I1 may have inclusions barely visible or located to the side while an I2 will have numerous inclusions that may be centerally located.
CUTThe Cut is the most important characteristic of a diamond. This factor determines how much light which enters the diamond from above, then how much light will be reflected and refracted back out of the gem to the eye of the observer. In other words how pretty the diamond can be is decided by the cut. For the consumer it is fairly easy to determine in general terms if a round brilliant cut diamond is well cut or proportioned. The first and easiest characteristic to evaluate is to compare the diamonds weight with the proper diameter size listed in the "Size to Weight Ratio Chart "below. At the turn of the century, a young Belgian mathematician, Marcel Tolkowski, came up with what is now called the "Ideal cut" for round diamonds. His formula in essence says that if an ideal cut diamond has a 1.00 carat weight, then its proper diameter size should be between 6.3 to 6.5mm. This is the first and easiest characteristic to evaluate. The rest of the characteristics, that are equally important, such as depth % and table%, polish, symmetry can also easily be determined by comparing the information in the tables below with the information provided on the certificate of the diamond you are interested in.
Size to Weight Ratio Chart
Generally if the size to weight ratio are cut correctly the entire bottom side of the diamond is turned into a mirror. If the cut has been poorly done, even the highest quality grade diamond will look lifeless. As an example, in the illustration below, lets assume that each of these diamonds has a carat weight of 1.00 carats. The ideal cut diamond model in the center will have a diameter measure of 6.3 to 6.5mm and will reflect light to its optimum. The shallow cut model on the left may measure 6.7 to 7.0mm, so it will look like you are getting a larger diamond, but this stone will "leak" light and not be as bright as an ideal cut. The deep cut diamond on the right (the most common cut), will appear to be a smaller diamond, maybe have the physical size of a .80 to .90 carat diamond, measure somewhere around 6.0mm, this stone will also "leak" light and not be as brilliant as an ideal cut. These diamonds are not cut this way because the cutter is unskilled, the cutter buys diamond just like you, by the "carat" and it's his job to return the most carat weight he can in a finished diamond.
Shallow Cut Ideal Cut Deep Cut
As in this illustration the "shallow cut" diamond has been cut too wide and shallow for its weight and the light will escape out the back or pavilion of the gem. In the "ideal cut" the diamond has been correctly cut and the light entering the diamond will return to the eye. The "deep cut" diamond has been cut too narrow and deep and again looses the light out the pavilion. Diamonds are cut by the manufactures to yield the greatest amount of carat weight from the rough, which they also buy by the carat.
It is therefore in the best interest of the cutter to cut for weight, not for proportions. Consumers are generally not informed about cut and its relation to value, cost, and beauty.
Now let's evaluate the cut. This includes the depth percentage, table percentage, crown angles, crown height, girdle thickness, pavilion depth, culet size, finish, symmetry and polish. All of these factors are just a simple comparison of the data in the "Typical Diamond Proportion Analysis Chart" below, and with the laboratory certificate of the diamond you are interested in. When ordering your diamond, we will be happy to explain all of these individual quality grades in more detail. The Proportion Tables below will give you the industry parameters for Round brilliant cut diamonds as well as Marquise, Pear, Emerald, Princess and Ovals. Understanding the cut of a diamond is very important, as two diamonds with the exact same quality grades can have a 30% difference in cost because of the cut.
Typical Diamond Proportion Analysis Chart
When you are purchasing a 1.0 carat or larger Diamond, we strongly recommend a Gemological Laboratory Certificate and/or Appraisal prior to purchase. We use fully accredited Gemological Laboratories able to perform Diamond Identification, Diamond Grading, and Appraisals of Gems and Jewelry. The following links are to reputable Gem Laboratories and Appraisers (in Alphabetical order). AGS | GIA | GUILD | IGI | SSEF
Proportions for Round Brilliant cut diamonds Components AGS 000 Ideal Proportions Near Ideal Proportions Total Depth 61.6 - 62.7% 60.1 - 62.8% 57.0 - 65.0% Table Diameter 54.0 - 57.0% 53.0 - 58.0% 51.5 - 60.0% Girdle Thickness thin to medium very thin to medium very thin to thick Culet Size none none to medium none to sl. thick Crown Angle 34.5 degrees 33 - 35 degrees 30 - 35 degrees Crown Height variable 16.2% 11.0 - 16.2% Pavilion Angle 40.75 degrees . . Pavilion Depth 43% 43.1% 41.5 - 45.5% Symmetry excellent excellent to very good excellent to good Finish excellent excellent to very good excellent to good
Proportions for Princess, Emerald and Radiant Components Ideal Proportions Near Ideal Proportions Total Depth 58.0 - 75.0% 56.0 - 82.0% Table Diameter 57.0 - 78.0% 54.0 - 85.0% Girdle Thickness thin to thick thin to thick Culet Size N/A N/A Crown Angles 30.0 - 37.5degrees 29.0 - 38.0degrees Crown Height N/A N/A Pavilion Depth N/A N/A Symmetry excellent to very good excellent to good Finish excellent to very good excellent to good
- cut is @1.0 x 1.0, +/- 10%,
- ie: 6mm x 6mm to 6mm x 6.60mm
- The Ideal shape for Emerald and Radiant cuts are 1.30 x 1, up to 1.40 x 1,
- ie: 9mm x 7mm, or, 7mm x 5mm, etc.
- The overall shape considered as "Ideal" for Marquise diamonds is 2 to 1,
- i.e: 5mm wide and 10mm long
- The Ideal shape for Oval cut is 1.30 x 1, up to 1.40 x 1,
- i.e: 9mm x 7mm, 7mm x 5mm, etc.
- The Ideal shape for Pear shape cut is 1.30 x 1, up to 1.40 x 1,
- i.e: 9mm x 7mm, 7mm x5mm, etc.
- The "Ideal" shape for a Heart shape cut is 1 to 1,
- i.e: 6mm x 6mm
Many wonder what the difference is between the Princess cut and the Radiant cut... well, they are actually the same cut. The difference is in the shape of the stone. As you can see from the notations above, Princess cut is "1.0 x 1.0, +/- 10%" so they would be very square in shape. A Princess cut becomes a Radiant cut when it starts getting more rectangular. In other words, if the stone measures 7.0mm x 7.7mm (within 10% of being square) it's still a Princess cut, but if it were 7.0mm x 7.8mm, and anything beyond that, it should rightfully be called a Radiant cut. A well proportioned Radiant cut or Emerald cut should be between 1.0 x 1.3, up to 1.0 x 1.4 (example: 7.0mm x 9.1, up to 7.0mm x 9.8mm). Typically the Princess cut also has square corners, rather than the cut corners normally seen on the Radiant and the Emerald cut.
|Ideal Proportions
|Near Ideal Proportions
|Total Depth
|57.0 - 65.0%
|53.0 - 69.0%
|Table Diameter
|52.0 - 64.0%
|51.0 - 66.5%
|Girdle Thickness
|thin to sl.thick
|thin to thick
|Culet Size
|Crown Angles
|33.0 - 34.0 degrees
|31.0 - 36.0 degrees
|Crown Height
|Pavilion Depth
|excellent to very good
|excellent to good
|excellent to very good
|excellent to good


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Re: print issues
On Feb 10, 4:19 am, Rajeev Bhalerao <rajeev.bhale... at gmail.com> wrote:
> If I print a file.nb, some of the brackets (mainly those at the end
> of line) are getting printed reverse, e.g,
> (* 7 Feb. 2011 *) is printed
> as
> (* 7 Feb. 2011 *(
> What is the reason? Thanks for your help.
It is hard to tell what may be going wrong here without seeing the
notebook. Can you please contact tech support
and provide them with a notebook which exhibits this problem.
Tom Sherlock
User Interfaces
Wolfram Research, Inc.


text: I love new clothes! They make me feel happy and all refreshed, a reflection of what I find lovely about fashion. I don't consider myself a fashionista, generally choosing a look that's more understated than bold, working with colors that make me look my brightest. But I will say I am very particular about what I wear and yes, everything has to match… I mean everything has to match. So when Tablots reached out to >> Read More


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|Topic Review (Newest First)
Originally Posted by huntergreen View Post
i see no reason to have things/plants around that can cause any problem, but that is just me.
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Originally Posted by Springbrz View Post
Interesting articles.
I'm not saying these things are not dangerous to our pets. I think, imho, it has more to do with the actual size of the dog; breed and mostly the amount of the toxin consumed at one time. They never say how much onion it takes to make a dog sick. Or how much garlic or chocolate.
Let me add an experience with a bad toxin... In December we lost our beautiful GSD Cesar... The main culprit was an undiagnosed splenic tumor that ruptured (he was a very large, athletic boy, and could leap straight up an amazing height, and did so at the trunks of trees trying to get squirrels--we believe that's how the tumor ruptured). What made it worse, however, is that we believe he ingested poisonous mushrooms, which affect the clotting factor in blood. The house we just moved into has an area where there are huge pine trees, and the previous owners never raked up the pine needles, they just accumulated and composted, a perfect place for mushrooms to grow. He often rutted around in that area, looking for rabbit poop. When I remembered seeing an occasional mushroom in there, I raked some of it up, and found many, many young mushrooms sprouting under the pine needles, and as I raked them they broke easily apart. So, we feel that the toxins in the mushrooms complicated things, making him bleed out so fast that they could not save him. He died in my arms while they were trying to save him. He never purposely ate the mushrooms, but it would have been an easy thing for him to take in pieces as he was finding and eating rabbit poop. I will be raking that all out and KEEPING it that way when spring comes!
I tried to upload a photo of Cesar, hopefully I was successful.
|Nigel and I agreed, on a similar thread, that we have had dogs that were seemingly unaffected by anything they ate. We didn't know any better. Now I do and I would refrain from intentionally feeding these foods. I like that the vet explains how the toxin affects the dog.
Interesting articles.
I have a peace lily I have to keep my pup away from. She has gotten at it a couple of times. Fortunately she didn't get sick.
Personally, I cook almost all meats with onions and garlic. For years we have always given our dogs leftover meats and such (even beef stews). Our last two dogs, chow mixes, lived to be 13.5 & 14.5. I didn't know about onions being bad for dogs until they were well into their senior years. They never had any ill effects, blood work was always good.
My mom had a mutt of all large breeds (newfie, lab, shep). he started every day off with a large bowl of cornflakes and milk. Had coffee and donuts several days a week for years. Got all sorts of table scraps. He had to have consumed a lot of onion, garlic and caffeine over the years. He was a parvo survivor but rarely ever sick as an adult. He lived to 17.
Have a friend that has a beagle/gsd mix. She ate a whole 5lb bag of M&M with peanuts. In that case the dog did have diarrhea and an upset tummy. But did not require any veterinary treatment. She was fine in a couple days after she passed all those peanuts.
I'm not saying these things are not dangerous to our pets. I think, imho, it has more to do with the actual size of the dog; breed and mostly the amount of the toxin consumed at one time. They never say how much onion it takes to make a dog sick. Or how much garlic or chocolate.
It does make sense that the type of chocolate (milk, dark, baking)makes a big difference.
Our current dog is raw fed. I'm older and wiser and much more careful as to what she gets to eat. Live and Learn!
|Daisy&Lucky's Mom
|Thanks for sharing. The grapesI knew about but not the Macadamia Nuts.
As a kid the family dog ate one of those chocolate chocolate chip cakes from KFC. She ate the whole cake. She clearly didn't feel well but at the time I don't think my parents knew it was toxic. She was fine the next day luckily.
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|Very interesting read!
Originally Posted by Stevenzachsmom View Post
Here is another article by the same vet, on chocolate, onions, garlic, raisins and Macadamia nuts. I know there will be some argument on garlic. I just appreciate the explanations he gives.
Plant-related food toxins of the Holidays and your pets
Here is another article by the same vet, on chocolate, onions, garlic, raisins and Macadamia nuts. I know there will be some argument on garlic. I just appreciate the explanations he gives.
Plant-related food toxins of the Holidays and your pets
|huntergreen, I am not a huge fan of house plants. I don't especially enjoy taking care of them. On the other hand, I have an extensive garden. I have some seriously toxic plants out there - Mountain laurel AKA sheep kill and several types of milk weed. I have never had a problem keeping my pets away from the plants. That aside, the point of this article is that the particular plants mentioned are not that dangerous, so why not enjoy them during the holidays - at least those with the least amount of toxins?
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text: The Community Development Department is comprised of divisions that provide current and long-range planning, public works and engineering services and oversee the management of the Marina Municipal Airport. The department implements the General Plan, Local Coastal Program, Municipal Code, Building codes. and state and federal laws; establishes procedures related to planning programming, code compliance and building inspection functions and provides street, building and grounds maintenance for the city . Staff serve as a liaison to the Planning Commission, Public Works Commission, Design Review Board and Tree Committee.


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Furyk birdies No. 11 in Round 1 of Tampa Bay
In the opening round of the 2013 Tampa Bay Championship presented by EverBank, Jim Furyk's approach settles with seven feet of the cup and he would make birdie on the par-5 11th hole.
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Browse Recipes By Products:
Apricot Almond Bread (Version 2), 2 lb.
11½ fl ounces (1¼ cups + 3 tablespoons) water, 80°F
2 tablespoons butter or margarine
3¾ cups bread flour
2 tablespoons dry milk
3 tablespoons brown sugar, packed
1½ teaspoons salt
¾ teaspoon ground nutmeg
2¼ teaspoons active dry yeast
- or -
2 teaspoons bread machine/fast rise yeast
⅔ cup dried apricots, quartered
⅓ cup slivered almonds
- Add liquid ingredients and butter to bread pan.
- Add all dry ingredients, except yeast, to bread pan. Tap pan to settle dry ingredients and then level, pushing some of them into the corners. Lock pan into bread maker.
- Make an indentation in center of dry ingredients fill with yeast.
- Select desired setting. Program timer, if necessary. Turn bread maker on. When bread is done, turn breadmaker off and, using oven mitts, unlock and remove the bread pan. Shake bread out of pan and cool on rack before slicing.


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At the ground breaking ceremony of a new plant in Jakarta, Honda Prospect Motor (HPM), Honda's automobile manufacturing and sales joint venture in Indonesia, announced that it is planning to produce a new MPV based on the Brio hatchback in Indonesia. The MPV is likely to be similar in look to the Concept S shown at the Beijing Motor Show. The Concept S is an MPV designed for the Chinese market and the company says a production version will be launched next year in China, followed by a global release. However, the Brio based MPV which is significantly smaller, is likely to slot in below the production version of the Concept S.
What's for sure is that the Brio-based MPV will be produced in India to rival the Ertiga in 2014. The upcoming MPV will come with both petrol and diesel versions. You can expect this new model to come with an updated version of the City's current 1.5-litre i-VTEC petrol motor. However, the main demand will be for the diesel version, which is likely to be powered by an all-new motor (1.4 or 1.6 litres) that Honda is currently developing.
Autocar India first broke the news of Honda's mini-MPV, plans last month.
Issue: 215 | Autocar India: July 2017
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Latest Camera Reviews
Lomo'Instant Automat Glass Review
Canon PowerShot SX430 IS Review
Mac users, we're pleased to announce Macphun's all-in-one photo editor Luminar is now available for just $69£52 for new users, or $59£44 for existing Macphun users. We rated Luminar as "Highly Recommended".
Use coupon code "PHOTOBLOG" to save another $10 on Luminar. Visit the Luminar web site to try it for free.
Epson today launched a series of videos celebrating the black-and-white print. Looking back to the traditional Black-and-White darkroom for inspiration, the new tutorials offer unique insight into the latest digital black-and-white printing workflows for both novice and more experienced photographers. These movie clips are now available on Epson's website.
Website: Epson
Epson Press Release
Epson Celebrates the Black-and-White Print with New Video Series
New Videos Offer Black-and-White Inkjet Printing Tutorials Plus In-Depth Interviews with Black-and-White Photographic Icons – John Sexton and Kim Weston
LONG BEACH, Calif. – June 12, 2013 – Epson today launched a series of videos celebrating the Black-and-White print, available now on Epson's website. Looking back to the traditional Black-and-White darkroom for inspiration, the new tutorials offer unique insight into the latest digital Black-and-White printing workflows for both novice and more experienced photographers. In addition, in-depth interviews from John Sexton and Kim Weston – two photographic icons who work with traditional Black-and-White tools – underscore the importance of the Black-and-White print.
"To many, the Black-and-White print is the very definition of photography," said Dan (Dano) Steinhardt, marketing manager, Epson America, Inc. "We wanted to capture what Black-and-White has meant emotionally for generations of photographers and also provide a digital workflow foundation as we celebrate the Black-and-White print, be it traditional or digital."
The video interviews with Sexton and Weston will be available as a four-part series, with a new part available every two weeks. From his gallery in Carmel Valley, Calif., Sexton shares his start in photography, working with Ansel Adams, and his amazing body of work produced with traditional Black-and-White film, chemistry and paper. Weston, grandson of Edward Weston, talks about his photographic heritage from his grandfather's original home and darkroom on the Monterey Peninsula, as well as his workshops and his own highly collected traditional Black-and-White work.
In addition, four video tutorials are available, featuring digital Black-and-White printing workflows. Taped in the digital lab at the Santa Fe Photographic Workshops using Silver Efex Pro™ 2 and an Epson Stylus® Photo R3000, video topics include:
- Getting Started: An introduction to digital Black-and-White printing with inspiration from the traditional darkroom
- Next Steps: A step-by-step tutorial of several Black-and-White conversions and the final steps for printing
- More Advanced: A more advanced, step-by-step Black-and-White printing workflow tutorial
- For Windows User: A step-by-step overview on Black-and-White printing for those using Windows 7
For more information about the Epson video series, visit http://www.epson.com/blackandwhite.


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9 inch Ford Rear axle bearing
I'm running a 9 inch Ford rear end with the big bearing axles. The bearings I have are the sealed type and not the roller bearing type. On occasions, while making a turn or backing up I can hear a scrapping noise coming from the rearend or brakes. While crusing or highway there is no sound at all. Without pulling the axles, is there a way of telling if your axle bearings are worn or need replacing? What is the typical sound they make when they dry out or are worn? I'll probably have to pull the axle eventually because the seal is starting to leave an oil film on my rims as well. I've also noticed after driving for a while, a odor of gear oil is coming from the rearend. NO leaks though? Suggestions?
Raise the rear end off the ground and push and pull on the wheel. If you get any movement at all the bearing is bad.
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Gorch Writing
IMDb has Rob Reiner listed as a writer for one of The Land of Gorch sketches. Would writers for these sketches be considered for the writers category? -- Nate (talk) 18:52, January 14, 2010 (UTC)
- If confirmed and true, it would. However, IMDb isn't a good enough source for this, especially as all accounts of "Gorch" writing say that it went to staff writers (outside of the one or two we knew Jim Henson wrote). Rob Reiner wasn't a staff writer but had guest hosted a few weeks prior to the alleged show (the Candice Bergen one), so it's not wholly impossible, but we need a source: did this come from an interview, something somewhere in one of the SNL DVDs, what? -- Andrew Leal (talk) 19:14, January 14, 2010 (UTC)
- Yeah. IMDb is never a good source, but I'm thinking somewhere there must be a database of writers and their sketches. The SNL wiki isn't much for research, having only a couple hundred articles, but maybe someone can stumble onto something one day. It would be pretty cool to find out who contributed the sketches for us to have on here. -- Nate (talk) 20:01, January 14, 2010 (UTC)


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I'm on the hunt for a good ESB helmet kit. I have tried to research the different helmets available (mostly on eBay) I keep seeing MGH and FP helmets. I can't tell what's good or not. I just want an ESB kit!
I'm on the hunt for a good ESB helmet kit. I have tried to research the different helmets available (mostly on eBay) I keep seeing MGH and FP helmets. I can't tell what's good or not. I just want an ESB kit!
FPH2 is the best ESB helmet on the market. Keep an eye out, with FP kind of taking a step back with production other sellers will be offering his product. I would suggest wait a month or two and you'll be pleasantly surprised.
Also, avoid ebay, especially for helmets.
I like the MR derived lines the best for overall shape and size but you'll have to make some mods for the ESB damage unless someone comes up with a ready made solution. Darth Vorhees has proposed doing that but his recent good news about a job might make his time scarce.
I concur with Bounty about ebay. Whilst there are a couple of good ebay sellers for some stuff there's not a seller of helmets with a decent and legitimate product going on that I can think of. In my opinion it's best avoided for everything other than found parts.
I would guess FPH2 is Fett Pride correct? I just saw that he has been banned. There are a few helmets on eBay with FPH on the front of the T-visor and the seller is from Canada.
That would be classof84/slartibarfast or whatever name he's using right now. These are recasts of FP work and not very well done from some of what we've seen. Apart from the moral objections to recasting there's also generally tends to be a quality issue.
Correct FP is Fettpride. I would say that the FP banning and the overall quality of the product should not be confused i.e. the product is/was good and well received. I'm not a fan of the FPH2 but i think nearly everything else he does/did is among the best out there and very possibly the best in some cases. I particularly liked his gauntlets; he nailed it there. I've heard he may be passing his molds on to another so the FP product may still be available soon.
His recasts of the MR line are still available through Animefan and he does fine work from that source. The GMH molds went to Asok but we've not heard from her for some time. I seem to recall FP stated that the exclusivity to the GMH was finite and had ended with another having molds somewhere out there. The work done by FP to get the GMH into usable shape from the source helmet was miraculous; he had a good strating point but there was work to be done. The GMH is a great solution for the smaller person and so is the Bobamaker helmet, which is apparently around the same size, although I couldn't confirm it because I've never held one.
I'm 6ft 3in, so would a FP work better for me than the others?
I would think either an MR kit from animefan or an FPH2 (if you can find one) should fit you. I too am of the opinion of the MR line being a bit closer to the ESB hero helmet than the FPH2, but like it has been said, the MR kit does not have the specific ESB damage like the FPH@ kt does.
Well, you're a big guy so the GMH and Bobamaker aren't going to cut it. Even if you've a small head that'll fit in it it will look small on you. I'm a healthy six feet and the GMH is small on me. Working on the assumption that the BM is a similar size then the same would apply. That said it is only an assumption. Unfortunately I don't have the money to drop on a BM helmet to check it out to satisfy my curiosity.
In terms of size the MR line is pretty much the biggest out there and bigger than the FPH2 in height and overall space in the dome but it's still pretty roomy in the FPH2; I'd be surprised if you didn't fit the Fph2 unless you've a massive swede. The base circumference is pretty similar between although the shape is different. Some of the older helmets are also large but you'd have to track one down.
hey there, i make/sell boba fett helmets on ebay.....i have sold/made nearly 200 in the last year!! im 6 1" 230 lbs ish. the difference with my helmets is that i enlarged them because of the originals are just to small. you can pm me for details or look at some of my work on facebook at zero-cool prop shop
You could always wait a few more weeks and get a ToEleven helmet
That looks great except you might need a darker visor.
Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk
well its been my experience that most boba's run small(on me). the GMH are very small and the DP are similar as well[. a friend of mine has an original DP and it was snug. best thing for you to do is get measurements of the helmet you want and see if it will fit ya before buying. For me well i have a large cranium so i had to make my casting larger and it seems that im not the only one with a (fat) head...lol plus its better to be to big than to small plus with all the extra gear that potentialy could go inside i wanted extra room!! I just finished a new casting enlarging my fett helmet again. Ive had many people requesting a larger helmet for all the addons/electonics. This new casting fits awesome with plenty of room now!QUOTE=razorsharp192;689535]Just checked out your Facebook page. are your helmets DP casts? Could explain why you think they're too small since they're undersized[/QUOTE]
Personally I recommend animefan's premium kit, but I'd ask for epoxy gelcoat vs coldcast. It's a beautiful kit and will make a fine ESB or ROTJ. The FP one on eBay is either a copy of this one or the budget FP, and will not come close to the quality of Ryans kit. Steer clear.
The FPH2 has some features that are more accurate for an ESB lid, but it also has some features that are not accurate(side flare, overall dome shape) so it's about a wash. Biggest difference will be the squint and dent are more accurate on the FPH2. Mind you this is some nit picky ****, but the OCD can kick in at any moment. I have both kits and can tell you that Ryans attention to detail was on par for the quality I've seen from FP. Both make great stuff.
The animefan FP is MR based as said earlier, and is just a touch bigger than the FPH2.
Syllander what do you dislike about coldcast?
Can be brittle, can delaminate, and it's not screen accurate. Prefer the correct silver color paint for the damaged areas.


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A native of Hangzhou, the priest Dazhi was known for his eloquent exposition of Buddhist doctrines and for his success in winning many converts. Here he appears as a simple Buddhist priest, subdued in expression and calm in spirit. He holds a staff and a begging bowl. The poetic stanza above, written by Liu Tao (late 1000s-early 1100s), praises the priest:
Dignified he is, perfect in his upasampada,
His appearance is like his mind.
Uncompromising and aloof,
His mind is like his appearance.
To say he is square, he proves to be round.
He looks timid, yet his spirit is unbound.
Having no attachment, and holding no reigns,
Men and deities alike take refuge in him.
Nara National Museum, 1978: Nihon Bukkyo, cat. no. 63.
Cleveland Museum of Art, 1981: Eight Dynasties of Chinese Painting, cat. no. 17, p. 29.
Main Asian Rotation (Gallery 119); October 29, 2003 - March 15, 2004.
Cleveland Museum of Art (organizer). Tokyo National Museum (1/15/2014 - 2/23/2014) and Kyushu National Museum (7/8/2014 - 8/31/2014): "Admired from Afar: Masterworks of Japanese Painting from the Cleveland Museum of Art",, fig. 2, p. 55.
To request more information about this object, study images, or bibliography, contact the Ingalls Library Reference Desk.


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South Carolina acknowledged Monday the school received a notice of allegations from the NCAA regarding possible violations by its football program and other sports.
The charges spelled out by the NCAA include claims that 12 student-athletes received an estimated $47,000 in impermissible benefits from a local hotel through reduced rent and that nine players received special arrangements to pay at a later date.
It is also alleged that two people deemed representatives of the school made impermissible contact with recruits and provided them impermissible benefits. The violations were said to have occurred between spring 2009 and February 2011.
"We have and will continue to cooperate fully with the NCAA in all aspects of their review," said athletics director Eric Hyman said in a statement. "Any pertinent information from the NCAA that can help us strengthen our athletics program will be used as an opportunity to make positive change."
The school has 90 days to respond to the NCAA notice and then is expected to appear before the committee on infractions.
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Mid rise lift hoists ?
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mid rise lift
I have an Atlas brand lift with a 6000 lbs rating. It is great, however, there are a few drawbacks.
1) I have had several vehicles that scrub when driving on it. Need a couple of risers on each side of it. ( I use 2 X 12 's) but will be trying styrofoam glued to 1/4 plywood. to make them easier to handle.
2) Max lift of 58" (I think) is not quite high enough to sit on a rolling stool to work under.
3) If wheels are removed, and veh is let clear down it will not re-lift it without minor assistance.
4) The cable on the safety release is not as long as the hyd hose and is a trip hazard. And a longer cord is needed on the unit to eliminate an extension cord.
And pluses
5) For body work and painting it is the absolute best. Would not be without one now that I have used it. I feel it makes your finished product better to keep it at a good work height.
6) Able to raise and lower during painting without stirring up dirt and insure good coverage on the rockers and wheel wells. If you do not use pps cups it is hard to get a good gun angle.
7) Very happy with it overall.
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I think the moment I realized I hated Evan Glodell's directorial debut, Bellflower was about the third or fourth time one of its vacuous, dull characters conflated Mad Max with its sequel, The Road Warrior. The characters make constant reference to Lord Humungous and scenes from the latter film while calling it the former, and if any of you fine readers can divine a narrative purpose for this confusion on the part on the characters, I would be more than happy to hear it. Because honestly, Bellflower does a poor job at giving any sense of motivation to any thing its immature, aimless, empty leads do, making the entire runtime of the film feel like attending a party with a bunch of people you don't know, seeing some of them get into a nasty argument, and realizing quickly that you hate them all but can't leave because the doors are locked.
I can honestly say it's been a long time since I've hated a movie so thoroughly.
This mess of a production follows Woodrow and Aiden (Glodell and Tyler Dawson), 20-somethings who moved out to California because they thought it would be cool, and who subsequently decide to build a tricked out muscle car a la Mad Max which they dub "Medusa." Then Woodrow meets a "wild" girl, manic pixie Millie (Jessie Wiseman)--guys, if a girl tells you she doesn't want a relationship because it'll end badly, walk away because she's giving you clear signs of years of baggage. We suspect she's flaky/unpleasant given how thoroughly she fails to acknowledge or deal with the crush her roommate Mike (Vincent Grashaw) has on her.
Anyway, Millie and Woodrow take a trip to Texas with her on their first date because it's cool, and from there the movie meanders its way through their unlikely, unappealing, and mostly uninteresting relationship. He whines and makes puppy dog eyes at her while she seems to see him as a waypoint to whatever shiny thing enters her field of vision. With more thought and better performances, the tension between Millie and Woodrow could have been something--as it stands it's just another undermotivated part of the movie.
At its core, I suspect Bellflower is about a sort of boozy young adulthood crashing into "real" adulthood. But then, not a single one of the characters grows, changes, or really gives us insight into this theme. Not a single one of them appears to have a job, or any concrete interest, personality, or even a last name. The acting isn't really much help either, with each member of the cast delivering the same distant, faux-ironic performance that just grates, and wears after a while. I wanted to get into Glodell's efforts to let the characters bob along with their own currents--I can respect that instinct. At the same time, I need to know a little something about these characters before I follow them along for nearly two hours wandering the grimy titular street where all the action takes place.
Then there's the third act, which veers off into uncharted territory, with violence, blood, and fire, and has little if any emotional resonance with what came before. I wish I could somehow project into your brain beyond mere words how little I cared about any of this, how, by this point, I would have happily run from a crumbling theater rather than subject myself to the lifeless eyes of the film's leads, from their monotone, flat delivery, from their lack of character.
I believe that every film, whether a micro-budget indie shot on a flip cam or a big budget 3D production based on a ride, is about communicating an idea to an audience. Whatever the purpose--to sell toys, to push politics, to enlighten, surprise, or anything else--the core idea is the sharing of some germ, some spark that the filmmaker had to pass from their brain into someone else's.
Why was Glodell interested in telling this story with these characters? Who are they to him? With Bellflower, there is neither germ nor spark, no particularly coherent or compelling idea. Just a preponderance of yellow-toned visuals and listless performances, like the car the film spends so much time on, it's a bunch of pretty noise with no purpose.
Bellflower screened previously at the 37th Seattle International Film Festival back in June and this review has been embargoed since that time. It opens in limited release on August 5.


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The reason is the DC motor must be off when the dis-charge occurs.
After looking at what Tom Bearden did in the book Electromagnetics part 4, This is what I did in 1984 to make the first model 2. I knew that it must be a switching and impedance problem, I also knew allot about pulse charging systems and what they did to the lead acid storage batteries . I also knew about charging batteries with huge Capacitor Banks. I was good at this because of the Amplifiers we were building at the time.
You run into all kinds of Impedance problems and Phasing, so this was a piece of cake. I also knew about Mass weight and what flywheels did and how they stored energy. I figured that the generator could not be the normal kind because they were saying the word ENERGIZER which really means MAGNETO, but this did not answer the question of where the current came from, the Capacitor was the answer.
The MAGNETO would charge this very fast and to High Voltages some times 10 times the battery voltage. When the machine first ran it would explode the batteries if they were bad, so I put the switch S1 to control it. When the battery would get low I would switch S1 to charge the battery back up.
This was 18 years ago with what we have today this machine can be made real easy if you tinker with it and get it set right. The ENERGIZER How did I come up with this one you see in the picture. My uncle was a old time mechanic who was a real tinker, he use to tell me of the old lighting circuits just after the horse and carriage days and things that people would never believe, this is where My MAGNETO comes from. I told Jim Watson how to do this, I never thought that he would build a Machine that big but He did. and that's the story of this machine. Jim got paid off I got pushed agents the wall and told to by gasoline the rest of My life but once you see something like this you never give up.


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The study process questionnaire : a revalidation study
Burnett, Paul C. & Dart, Barry C. (2000) The study process questionnaire : a revalidation study. Assessment and Evaluation in Higher Education, 25(1), pp. 93-99.
The Study Process Questionnaire (Biggs, 1987) has been widely used in studies investigating learning behaviours in tertiary education. Many of the studies that have used the instrument have investigated the construct validity of the SPQ using a variety of factor analytic methods and techniques in an atheoretical way. Contrary to this method, Burnett and Dart (1997) argued that the hypothesised structure of a scale should be used when assessing the construct validity of an existing instrument. This study investigated the factor structure of the SPQ using a theoretical approach and found strong support for the three approaches to learning structure of the instrument.
Impact and interest:
Citation counts are sourced monthly from Scopus and Web of Science® citation databases.
These databases contain citations from different subsets of available publications and different time periods and thus the citation count from each is usually different. Some works are not in either database and no count is displayed. Scopus includes citations from articles published in 1996 onwards, and Web of Science® generally from 1980 onwards.
Citations counts from the Google Scholar™ indexing service can be viewed at the linked Google Scholar™ search.
|ID Code:
|Item Type:
|Journal Article
|Learning behaviours, Construct validity, Factor structure
|Current > QUT Faculties and Divisions > Division of Research and Commercialisation
|Copyright Owner:
|Copyright 2000 Taylor and Francis
|Deposited On:
|25 Aug 2009 00:51
|Last Modified:
|25 Aug 2009 00:51
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Your Cat, Your Life
The Scoop
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Your cat loves a clean toilet -- don't we all? Catster's singing Cat Lady, Sarah Donner, explains why.
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Almost made a huge mistake shingling a low slope roof! What materials should I use?
UPDATE: Resolution reached. See my post at the bottom of the thread. Thanks for all advice given.
So I have a 12x12 "lean-to" style free standing storage shed/workshop. I just finished mold remediation on it and now I'm in the process of replacing the leaky roof. It had corrugated plastic roof panels that leaked from 3 places where the screws went through and completely rotted out most of the OSB decking. When I went up there to find out where the leak was coming from my foot starting going through the deck left and right...Had no idea it was that bad!
Anyway, I demoed the old roof, replaced all the OSB sheathing, installed #15lb felt and new drip edge flashing all around. I bought 3 tab shingles and I was going to start shingling tomorrow morning. Then reading on here and various sites I realized that the pitch of my roof is too low for shingles! Apparently the water does not run off fast enough and they won't last. It's 7' tall in the front and goes up to 8' in the back...being a 12x12 shed that makes it a 1/12 pitch roof?
Can I get away with installing these shingles on my 15# felt or should I return them to home depot and look at other options? I do not want to go the plastic route again, it already failed me once. I live in south florida so no need to work about ice and snow and such. I do need to worry about hurricanes though. I am thinking about using some sort of corrugated sheet metal roofing. Something I can use with my existing drip edge and felt I just installed as I do not want to have to redo the work. Is this the right way to go? Does home depot even sell that kind of sheet metal?
Thanks for any advice!
Well, looks like corrugated metal panels are out too! According to home depot they require a 3/12 slope minimum just like shingles. How is that possible they are the same? So far I cannot find any method that will work with my roof slope.
Got a picture?
Best thing to have done would be to redo the roof so there was some slope.
ABS is one roofing that would work with what you have, but not a great first time DIY job. Any real roofing could do a small roof like that in no time.
Hi, Thanks for your response. I will try and get a photo later but right now it just poured and the tarp on it is soaking wet. Anyway, just picture a standard lean-to, almost flat, 8 feet in the back and 7 in the front. with the 1ft overhang on each side it makes it a 12x14 roof.
OK So I have been reviewing all the options and most of it just seems like a huge expensive and too complicated for what I am trying to do. I have come back to the corrugated metal sheets. If I buy 10ft long sheets I can get a 6ft overlap on the down slope of the roof and I can overlap the sides by 3 corrugations.. If I also use some sort of lap sealant and butyl tape to seal off all the overlaps and joints could I possibly get away with using this metal product? It would allow me to keep my existing tar paper and drip edge and not redo my work...
Remember this is for a shed/workshop roof and I already have a great deal of time and money into it. I have looked at the rubber flat roof products, torch applied, GAF liberty, etc but they all are too big an expensive and hassle.
Can I make the corrugated panels work?
Best and proper DIY option would be the modbit (GAF Liberty). You could get the corrugated metal (most places will custom order proper lengths) but it is not made for such a low slope, and will probably cost you more money in the end.
I'm in the same boat trying to reroof a patio. I haven't started the project yet, but I did order GAF Liberty in a Home Depot. It will probably arrive today. A word of advice: maybe it is worth it to shop around, because I've seen price differences in the double. I was able to get the cap sheet for $43/square in this store, but other places quoted over $80 (similar differences in the base sheet). I will only do 2-ply with MA base and the cap sheet.
There are a few things in the instructions that I'm having hard time to acquire. Home improvement stores don't seem to sell metal cap nails around here. I'll check 84 Lumber today. Another thing is asphalt primer. I could only order it on-line.
This will be my first roofing project, so I have no experience about this: but is it correct that suppliers will only sell to vendors and contractors? Because I know exactly where Home Depot is ordering their materials from, and I can find their locations on the net. It's not that I'm not willing to pay the stores' margin, but it seems like the stores stock nothing that I need and it is a major pain to go through the ordering process every single time. I'm not even sure they would be willing to order small things like metal cap nails.
Hopefully the experts will chime in but I think you want to go with something like this. They call it torchdown. It's big sheets of pretty tough rubber stuff....Buttel something....I can't remember...it's not my expertise.
This part of my roof is a 1.9:12 pitch....
Torch down is nice, but not great for DIY, unless you are really confident/good. I would be reluctant to work on my roof with that torch.
Hi everyone, just wanted to update you all that I have come to a resolution on this. I decided against the panels from home depot. For the number I needed and the laps I wanted it came out to $370 for JUST the panels never mind the tape, sealant, and screws. I also decided against the GAF liberty as I have read some reports about issues with the self adhering material...
I found a local roofing supplier, one of the biggest in Florida, who has a metal panel that is rated down to 1/2:12. The product is gulf coast supply PBR. They are custom making my panels right to fit my roof. Just need 4 14' long panels. They are including everything I need including sealant tape, screws, and closure strips. Best of all It is being delivered right to my door on wendsday for around $200. Can't beat that. I will update everyone when it's installed. I'm excited and relieved I figured this out.
Thanks for the help everyone.
I though of mentioning the low slope hydrostatic roofs, but I thought the cost would be prohibitive. It should be noted that the instructions for the product you mentioned say 1/2 /12 is minimum for steel structures and 2/12 is minimum for wood structures.
I hope this system has sealant in the ribs. And don't forget the additional sealant needed at the clips, and dont forget to provide for expansion.
IMHO You would be better off with EPDM.
For $150 in materials cost in full length panels that are rated for my slope I would be very pleased if I got 5 years out of this roof. I suspect I will get much more though. Not to mention it will be miami dade hurricane rated once I use the proper fastener distance specifications.
I looked into EPDM but could not locate any materials that were readily available in my area, cheap, and easy to install.
Sounds like an insteresting system. take some pictures when you are done!
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SLIDESHOW: 75 was a great birthday for the 'Log Cabin' Fieldhouse in White Center
The 75th birthday of the historic White Center Fieldhouse was celebrated Sept. 14 with a community gathering featuring games, activities, performances, memories and a special anniversary cake.
In addition to highlighting the unique histories of the building and park, the celebration offered games, arts and crafts, cake and performances by special guests.
The fieldhouse, which is also known as the White Center Community Center, or the Log Cabin, was constructed between 1938 to 1940 and is one of the five original Works Progress Administration fieldhouses in King County.
Designed in the National Park Service "rustic style," the fieldhouse features gabled wood shingle roofs, large covered porches with oversized log support posts, stone fireplaces, and half-log sliding. The building is a designated King County Landmark.
Community members are encouraged to share their memories of the White Center Fieldhouse with others by participating in the virtual scrapbook and video that King County Parks will assemble and make available to the public.
During the Sept. 14 event, King County Parks staff recorded short video clips of attendees who shared their memories of the fieldhouse. People can still share their photos and memories via email by contacting Frana Milan, at email@example.com. Oddly enough it's photos from the 1990's they don 't have, likely as a result of people switching to digital cameras.
In 2013, King County Parks has been celebrating its 75th anniversary with special events held throughout the county, including a volunteer "work and party day" at Tolt-MacDonald Park, backcountry trails celebrations at nine sites, a "King County Parks Day" proclamation by the King County Council, and the launch of the King County Parks Foundation in partnership with Laird Norton Wealth Management.
We encourage our readers to comment. No registration is required. We ask that you keep your comments free of profanity and keep them civil. They are moderated and objectionable comments will be removed.


text:
CableTV.com Recommends TV Service from DIRECTV
Do you need help finding cable companies or other subscription television services available in your area and understanding how they differ? According to independent consumer surveys, the best TV service provider out of all the satellite TV and cable companies in Backus, MN is DIRECTV.
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text:
Yes, I know, last week I threatened pictures of snow until June. But I lied. These will be it, unless we get some more snow, and then I can make no promises.
Especially if we get a snow day, and then you'll see giddy, happy, snow day pictures.
What was great about this snow was that it was so wet and clumpy. It looked like more than it was because it just piled up so lovely. Just look at it resting on my purple coneflower seed heads. Which reminds me, I didn't dead head them. Which means, I will have purple coneflowers everywhere.
Smudge would like to ever-so-gently remind you that this is just one day left in the cutest Senior Cat Contest on Facebook. At this moment he is in first place, but it is very tight, so please be sure and vote. You can vote once every 24 hours.
Smudge says thank you!


text:
CI Financial Corp. Tuesday reported a 19-per-cent increase in third-quarter profit, helped by cost controls as the mutual fund giant suffered from net redemptions during the recent market turmoil.
The silver lining to the market sell-off is that it has created more potential for acquisitions, CI's chief executive officer Stephen MacPhail told analysts during a conference call.
"I think the market downturn created a situation where a lot of companies really struggled," he said. "We are seeing more [for sale] but…we don't want to make acquisitions for the sake of making one. We do believe there are businesses that could be a good fit for CI whether it be on the synergy front, expanding product lines or giving us access into markets that maybe we aren't in right now."
CI, Canada's third-largest investment fund company, earned a profit of $90.8-million, or 32 cents a share, in the latest quarter, compared with $75.9-million, or 26 cents a share, a year ago. The earnings were in line with consensus expectations.
The firm, however, kept expenses in check during the latest quarter, and that should leave it in a strong position for the fourth quarter and 2012, Mr. MacPhail said.
Net redemptions, however, totalled $91-million in the third quarter compared with net sales of $210-million in the same period last year.
The net outflows are higher than "our assumption of net redemptions of $74-million," CIBC World Capital Markets analyst Paul Holden wrote in a note to clients. "This supports our view that net sales for CI are going to come in lower for the sixth consecutive year. Growth is becoming more challenging."
While stock markets have rebounded off their recent lows, the S&P/TSX composite index tumbled 12 per cent during the quarter, while the S&P 500 and MSCI World indexes fell 13.9 per cent and 16.5 per cent, respectively.
Assets under management rose slightly to $67.4-billion in the third quarter from $66.8-billion a year ago. The recent rally, however, boosted assets under management to $70.4-billion by Oct. 31.
"While the outlook remains quite challenging for the asset managers, we remain confident that ultimately declining volatility and rising valuations will help overall profitability," said Barclays Capital analyst John Aiken who maintains his one-year target of $22 a share on CI stock. "CI retains the best upside leverage of the group."
Toronto-based CI generated $104.2-million in cash flow during the three months ended Sept. 30, compared with $91.5-million in the third quarter of 2010.
During the latest period, the cash was used to reduce net debt by $12.6-million, while $64.7-million went to pay out dividends and $34.6-million for the repurchase of 1.7 million shares.
The company also declared monthly cash dividends of 0.075 cents a share payable on Dec. 15, Jan. 13, 2012 and Feb. 15, 2012.
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- 04-09-13 07:53 PM #1Cadillac Owners Member
- Automobile(s): 2006 Cadillac CTS-V
- Join Date
- Feb 2013
- Location
- North Syracuse, NY
- Age
- 27
- Posts
- 71
Another Nav problem Thread.
So I've searched the forum and I've found people with similar problems but not the exact problem, so I'm unsure how to go about the fix.
I have an '06 V with Nav that has the DVD logo. When I load the Nav disc it prompts me to choose a language at the warning screen or what not. I click accept and this is where it freezes. Only once has it began to load the map, which was just glitchy squares not resembling a map.
Also, I can watch DVD's just fine and it actually reads scratched DVD's pretty well.
So after surfing the forum board, I am unsure if this is firmware issue, a Nav CD issue. Ontop of that I've seen threads of certain places to buy newer CD's, who to contact, what version to get...
Information overload and not sure which way to go.
Re: Another Nav problem Thread.
I had the exact same problem. The radio is finicky with the map dvd. Even though the disc looks clean, mist it with cd/dvd cleaner and wipe it dry with those fine fiber cloths the the ones that come with sunglasses or phone case kits. It should work after that.
And yeah, I tried the old dvd video method and it worked fine, but the map dvd didnt work till i cleaned it as explained above.
Thank you! Will try that today.
- 04-15-13 10:16 PM #4Cadillac Owners Member
- Automobile(s): 2006 cts v
- Join Date
- Jun 2012
- Age
- 28
- Posts
- 43
Mike won't read my nav disc or DVDs. One day it all just froze and never worked again. I would hate to spend all that money to find out I could have fixed it myself or have someone fix it cheaper.
Any suggestions
Re: Another Nav problem Thread.
I wonder if the drive can be modded to accept a disc ISO on a USB.
sorry, just thinking out loud.
I'll ask the housemates this afternoon. they should know pretty quickly if
there is any compatibility that would allow this.
I'm just thinking, maybe there's a USB reader that will go into a SATA or
PATA connector, which optical drives most commonly are.
...and have nothing but the disc contents on the USB.
(USB storage capacities weren't big enough for this to be viable even
through 2006 when the last V1s were sold...)
if the optical drive is anything relatively "off-the-shelf," there's a chance this
just might potato.
Re: Another Nav problem Thread.
Sometimes the drive just coughs and pukes.
I might have an extra DVD drive.
The drive connectors (thanks Delco for nothing) are not standard.
Re: Another Nav problem Thread.
I haven't tried using disc cleaner yet. It's surprisingly hard to get CD cleaner nowadays... Office Max told me to try GameStop (some videogame store). Will update once I try that.
Re: Another Nav problem Thread.
2 options for updating or replacing the optical drive:
replace the internals with a new laser (most likely source of problems in an optical drive)
-or- (and I would love for this to work)
use a SATA to IDE/PATA adapter and use an SSD (or regular hard drive *yuck*).
it would require a converter/adapter from SSD to whatever connector the optical drive uses, hopefully IDE... but
is there any chance it is this or something like this (slim cd connector, there is also a slightly larger version):
larger version:
adapted to IDE via:
(but the other way around->SATA to IDE to Slim CD)
if it is, then the last obstacle is whether the NAV disc is not encrypted and has regular folders if you put it into your computer DVD drive (does it display a normal-looking/regular file tree)
I already have an iso (somewhere on one of my hard drives) and the nav disc (somewhere else but I can't remember where, exactly)
//////if this works then everyone owes me a dollar
Re: Another Nav problem Thread.
When I bought my car a couple months ago, it didn't come with a nav DVD, so I ordered a version 6.0 off eBay (I don't know what the newest version is. That's all I saw on eBay). When I received it, I had the exact same problem you're having. The screen was glitchy when it actually did stop freezing after you select the language. I sent it back for a refund and ordered another one exactly like it from a different seller on eBay, and it's worked fine from the beginning. Maybe you just have a bad disc and it isn't the unit after all. Just a thought.
Re: Another Nav problem Thread.
D3l7a3ch0 I'm afraid I have no idea what any of that means? Are you talking about being able to burn the nav info onto a disc? I'm sorry... all those acronyms...
Destram Good to know. So is the 6.0 pretty well updated and how much did you end up spending for one on the Bay.
Re: Another Nav problem Thread.
put the contents of the nav disc (and nothing but the nav disc) on a laptop hard drive (known as Solid State or SSD)
and then with the use of adapters, plug everything in at the connector the DVD used
the head unit will not know the difference. point of failure removed (also faster read times)
Re: Another Nav problem Thread.
Re: Another Nav problem Thread.
if the hard drive thing works, you can download the ISO and load the contents of the disc onto the drive (and do it that way)
I really need to just open it up again, especially since I can't find a picture of the cts dvd drive
//apparently the nav disc uses non-encrypted root directory. the hard drive can be made to do this as well
*for near-future reference
Re: Another Nav problem Thread.
If whatever you are talking about works. And it's easy. Count me in.
Re: Another Nav problem Thread.
yeah, if it works at all it will work very simply.
that's not a promise *yet* ...I'm just throwing an idea out there. to see what people are comfortable with.
I don't use my nav, so I'm thinking I could just... use mine as an extra core and continuously swap out drives I receive with one that has a new laser.
I ... hereby commit to pull my nav center out tomorrow. and also try the hard drive thing (or see what the situation is, inside the tin case of the nav unit
there's a chance the dvd drive uses a ribbon rather than a conventional cable,
bleh yeah lemme know
//4PM pacific, radio is pulled. working on it at my desk now. I will keep this thread poasted.
//5PM: welp, there is one ribbon that goes to the laser, and another ribbon that goes to the motor--that was expected
but there are two ribbons going from the drive to the rest of the nav circuit board, and I need to ask my roommates and the internet (lol) how they're different from older optical drives
these are the screws, (not too scary) and I've highlighted the assembly that houses the laser. I'm pretty sure the laser can be replaced after opening the highlighted body, but I want to check with my roommates before doing it.
the metal housing of the nav unit comes apart without bending anything permanently... there are small metal and plastic tabs that hold it all together. (zero commitment)
see ya tomorrow... my roommates don't get back til late tonight... there's some type of event in Santa Ana they are attending.
also: Conan O'Brien is hosting the Presidential Roast tonight, 9:45 Eastern
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text:
German Shepherd Dog Forums (http://www.germanshepherds.com/forum/)
- Rescue, Foster & Adoption Information (General) (http://www.germanshepherds.com/forum/rescue-foster-adoption-information-general/)
- - should i return my rescue? (http://www.germanshepherds.com/forum/rescue-foster-adoption-information-general/424762-should-i-return-my-rescue.html)
should i return my rescue?
hi i need some advice last november i adopted a black female gsd i had some issues with her .http://www.germanshepherds.com/forum...-shepherd.html
i found out why they were fighting it was because she had something in her mouth and my male got too close. anyways fast forward a few months they gotten along fine . but a few weeks ago i had them both out on the least coming back from the garage i had a bag of dog food in my hand i got up to the door and was opening it when two little girls were walking home(other side of the street) from being dropped off the school bus. one little girl made a loud noise and my female heard it and lunged toward them . so i put down the dog food to get a stronger hold of the leash she lunged again the leashed sliped from my hand and off she went running across the street and jumped up and bit the girl on the hand.
so i got a hold of the dog and took her back in my house and went over to the girls house to explain what happened. the mother and grandmother just asked if she was current on their shots i told her yes and i have the paperwork if they wanted to see it. they said no and they believed me and that they were not going to do anything about it since i had her leashed. i was very very lucky. but now im thinking of returning her to the rescue but i feel that i cant because i feel like im abandoning her like her original owners did,i talked to a couple of behaviorist one said she was probably protecting me or her territory with the girl . but she said it is a fixable issue. i dont know what to do.:help::confused::(
If you truly feel that this dog is not right for you, then you should take her back.
Though, personally, I think you should keep her and get some professional help.
Of course this is completely your decision, but what if you take her back and she ends up in the wrong hands? Someone who ignores her issues.
Either way, I wish the best for you both.
That should never never have happened! I would dump the behaviourist they are making excuse for the dog!
You need to get a trainer! The dog should not have gone beyond the yard! The dog should have stayed if you told it to and the dog should have come back when you called it!
Now the dog has a bite history not good and you did that!. Now you "know" this dog cannot be trusted around children!
A GSD is not a joke dog! I got my clock cleaned by mine! And I was an experienced dog owner that did real dogs! Even still I had to step up my game and turn his "issues" around. The only one that ever got bit was me (and my other Dominant Male dog) but my GSD issues did not involve outsiders!
I stepped up my game and today my guy is safe in public and I am very very proud of him. :)
So.."you" need to decide are you gonna "Run with the big Dawgs or Stay on the porch?"
One thing is, if you return her with a bite history, the rescue may be forced to put her down. Liability insurances it seems won't cover dogs with a bite history, which is why most rescues won't take a dog that has a bite history. The other problem is, you know the dog and have a bond with her and don't want her. It is highly unlikely that a stranger is going to want a dog with a bite history. It is always better to return a dog before a bite happens - if there are problems.
Did the bite break the skin?
Thanks everyone for your imput im kinda upset about it because the rescue put in her description that she is good with kids thats why i got her because theres alot of kids that run around here in the summer and i have niece and nephews thats really young too.the other trainer i talked to said that she probably bit someone before he asked me if she drew blood i told him i not really sure but the mother has said so and he said if a dog bit someone the first time it wouldnt puncture the skin (but im not sure if thats true or not)
Ask the mother how bad the bite was and to describe it. More information is always good so you know what you are working with.
I think the leerberg site has a bite-chart that suggests whether or not a dog that has bitten and to what extent that the dog can be worked with.
From what you posted, I think your dog is a good candidate to be worked with. It is awful that this happened. I don't know that it is the end of the world. But you have to be a LOT more careful with her, now that you know what she is capable of.
This was a fraidy dog when you got her. Has this been the case all along. Is it loud noises that make her afraid? What all makes her fearful.
A single bite on a hand, when you have a fearful dog -- I am guessing a fear-biter now. But, the thing is, she got loose from you, and fearful dogs, when they have the opportunity, generally run, when they are connected, flight is taken away, so they must fight. I don't know why the dog when it realized it was not connected, chose to confront and bite the child.
I don't like what your trainer said about it being protective. I don't think so. I do think this is fixable. Too much aggression is automatically attributed to fear, or protective/guarding, or dominance. It is extremely important that your dog is diagnosed properly so you can choose the best approach.
In the mean-time, don't carry a load of groceries and two dogs' leashes into your house. Leave the dog in the car, and take the groceries in, and then come back for the dog or vice-versa. Too many people try to do too many things at once. If I see someone with a couple of dogs and a passel of children, no way am I going to stop and try to pet the dogs, or talk to the person. No way. The person is over-loaded and doesn't know it. If one of those dogs chose to do its own thing, what would she do?
This is something about the management that you now have to consider. Your dog, whether this was a response due to something it was afraid of, or because it wanted to stop the noise, or chase away the people that don't belong, doesn't matter, it will bite. And therefore, you don't have the luxury of dropping the lead or being in a situation where you have too much in your hands.
You've had this dog for several months. I think she is your problem now. I think that the rescue probably wouldn't work with her and find her a new home, because she bit a child, and there are so many dogs out there that need homes, that haven't. It is a liability issue for them.
I think you are probably going to need to work with a behaviorist/trainer to give your girl a chance. A 3 year old dog ought to be able to pick up basic obedience really fast. Doing that with her on her own, and then together with your other dog, will help build her confidence and trust in you.
It could have been a prey driven moment for the dog. I agree with everything Selzer has written.
I don't understand how the leash sipped from the hand. Personally I would not take the dog back for my failings. Maybe it's not the best time to have two dogs out on a leash when the school bus is dropping kids off. The leash slipping I honestly don't get. Once the first lunge happens I'm going to know a second lunge will take place unless I had the dog under complete control. I would have been ready for the second lunge.
Carrying a bag of dog food in while having two dogs on a leash....why? Unless it's a 5 pound bag the dogs will not be under complete control. I would keep the dog, but ensure I have complete control of the dog at all times.
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By Alison Broverman
Before you get into the plane, you have to step onto a boat. The shortest ferry ride in the world will take you to the Toronto Island's Billy Bishop Airport, best known as the home of Porter Air (although, Air Canada flies out of there now, too). Most of the people around you are on their way to New York, or Montreal, or Chicago. But don't be jealous, because while they might be about to fly somewhere, you are about to fly.
In addition to the city's least painful check-in process, the Billy Bishop Airport is home to the Island Air Flight School, where aspiring private and commercial pilots learn how to take to the skies.
The school is in a hangar sandwiched between two Porter-owned buildings. The smell of jet fuel pervades the air, and more than a dozen little Cessnas are parked around the tarmac (only eight or nine of them are used full-time, though — a few are just for show and/or extra parts). One-on-one in-plane instruction is given in a two-person aircraft that makes you feel like the star of a 1930s movie (you'll have to bring your own old-timey goggles, though).
One-on-one in-plane lessons go hand-in-hand with the less glamorous (but still important, obviously) ground school lessons, and flying hopefuls can do both at the same time, or even fly first (with an instructor, of course) and do ground school later.
In the plane, at first you're discouraged from paying any attention to the mind-boggling array of control panels in front of you. "VFR is very important to us here," says instructor Phil Childerhose, dropping one of the school's many acronyms. (VFR stands for "visual flight rules," which refers to what you actually see looking out the front window of the plane.)
"The first thing we tell students is just to look outside and use your peripheral vision to try and keep the wings level."
It takes a few minutes to get familiar with the plane's steering mechanisms. The foot pedals facilitate turn coordination by shifting the back rudder (similar to a boat). The steering wheel, meanwhile, turns to either side to move the ailerons on the wings, and pulls out to control the elevator on the back of the plane (yes, just like in an old war movie).
So who invests the considerable time (and money — flight instruction runs $197.50 per hour, and 60 hours of ground school is $390) in learning to fly? There are the curious and adventurous, eager for an atmospheric experience in a two-seater. There are lifelong aviation enthusiasts who've been saving up money to pursue this airborne hobby. Corey Centen, for example, has only been flying a few weeks, but he was hooked immediately. "You really feel like you're flying," he says. "It's a really cool experience to control a plane."
Then there are the more serious students looking for a career change and working towards their commercial pilot's licence (which requires well over 100 hours of flight time), such as Mark Farmer, who's been flying for two years now. "I've wanted to fly since I was a kid," he says. He loves the challenge of piloting a small plane, and even uses a computer flight simulator at home to practice. "It's neat that not many people do it, and it's great to be up in the air, seeing things from a different perspective," he explains. His skills also allow for awesome date nights: He's flown his wife around the city and even to Niagara Falls at night. "She says there's nothing like when the plane lifts off."
Island Air Flight School offers in-plane lessons and an extensive ground school training program. For more information, visit


text:
|Barb, Claude
|Hausman, Gary
Submitted to: Animal
Publication Type: Peer Reviewed Journal
Publication Acceptance Date: 11/24/2008
Publication Date: 6/1/2009
Publication URL: http://www.animal-journal.eu/
Citation: Barb, C.R., Hausman, G.J. 2009. Insulin-like growth factor-I feedback regulation of growth hormone and luteinizing hormone secretion in the pig: Evidence for a pituitary site of action. Animal. v.3(6) p. 844-849. Interpretive Summary: Understanding the mechanisms that regulate growth hormone (GH) secretion, necessary for stimulation of growth, is of great relevance in the rapidly growing pig. Growth hormone releasing hormone (GHRH), a brain hormone, stimulates GH secretion from the pituitary gland. Growth studies demonstrated that GH secretion decreased and insulin-like growth factor-I (IGF-I, a hormone necessary for growth) increased with age while pituitary expression of GH, IGF-I receptor (R) or GHRHR was not age dependent. Administration of IGF-I into the lateral ventricle of the brain failed to effect GH secretion. However, IGF-I, modulation of GH secretion from the pituitary cells in culture is age dependent and occurred independent of any influence from the brain in the growing pig. This is the first report to confirm that decreased GH secretion in response to GHRH during development may be explained, in part, by increased sensitivity to IGF-I. This information is necessary to develop novel methods to promote maximal growth during development in the pig.
Technical Abstract: The ontogeny of IGF-I modulation of GH secretion from the anterior pituitary was studied. In EXP I, serial blood samples were collected from gilts at 90, 150 and 205 days of age, and 24 hr later anterior pituitary glands were collected for expression analysis of GH and pituitary-specific transcription factor -1 (Pit-1), GH releasing hormone receptor (GHRHR), IGF-I receptor (IGF-IR), and somatostatin (SS) receptor (SSR)-1, -2, -5. Serum was analyzed for GH and IGF-I. In EXP II, prepuberal gilts received intracerebroventricular (ICV) injections of saline (n = 4), 25µg (n = 4) or 75µg (n = 4) IGF-I and blood samples were collected for GH. In EXP III, anterior pituitary cells in culture collected from 110 day old fetuses, 2-, 4- and 6- month old gilts were challenged with 0.1, 10 or 1000 nM GHRH, or 0.01, 0.1, 1, 10, 30 nM IGF-I individually or in combinations with 1000 nM GHRH. Secreted GH was measured at 4 h after treatment. In EXP I, serum GH concentration decline and IGF-I concentration increased with age while Pit-1, GH, GHRHR, IGF-IR, SSR1, SSR2 and SSR5 gene expression was unchanged. In EXP II, GH levels were unaffected by ICV IGF-I. In EXP III, all doses of GHRH increased GH in fetal pituitary cultures whereas there was an age dependent decrease in GH reponse to GHRH. IGF-I increased basal GH secretion only in fetal and 6 month old gilt pituitary cultures. IGF-I enhanced GH response to GHRH only from fetal and 2 month old pituitary cell cultures whereas this response was suppressed in pituitary cultures from 6-monthold pigs. These results demonstrate that GHRH and IGF-I modulation of GH secretion is age dependent and occurred independent of hypothalamic input.


text:
Which is book is "greater" in terms of peace? (Explain.)
This survey was answered 27,189 times by 2423 people. See the map.
Considering the idea of peace, which book do you think is "greater"? Which of the two works do you think discuss, define, describe, or allude to the idea of peace more than the other? Which book, in your opintion, has more to say about the idea of peace? From which book can you learn more about the idea of peace?
Don't think too hard about the questions. There are no wrong answers. Go with your instinct.
Eric Lease Morgan <email@example.com>
Date created: October 31, 2010
Date updated: November 4, 2010
URL: http://infomotions.com/sandbox/great-books/survey/