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GT3 / GT4 Tuning Guide
Updated by Fumes 02/22/2006 1:49 AM
This guide has been in the making for months now. It has taken this long due to time constraints on my part. Please note that the guide is based in part on GT3 & GT4, but the theories can be applied to any version of the game.
Weight Transfer
Understanding the simple physics of weight transfer is key to tuning cars. When stationary, the weight of the car is distributed evenly on all four wheels. Where does the weight of the car go during acceleration? The rear wheels, right? Likewise, during braking the weight is transferred to the forward wheels. Also, during cornering the weight is transferred to the outside wheels. That is, in a left turn, the weight of the car goes to the two wheels on the right (when looking at the car from behind).
Understeering and Oversteering
Understeering is the lack of responsiveness of the cars front in turning into a corner. That is, the car doesnt want to turn. Generally, FWD and 4WD cars exhibit understeering characteristics.
Oversteering is the tendency of a cars rear to slip out in mid-corner. That is, the car spins out too much. Generally speaking, overpowered RWD cars exhibit oversteering characteristics. Oversteering is not the be confused with "Drifting" or "Power Sliding". Generally, drifting is
with wheels losing grip intentionally and should be
with the throttle. Whereas, understeering and oversteering is uncontrollable and unwanted.
Our aim is to get rid of understeer and oversteer as much as possible, since it ruins lap times and tire wear. Although in real life, a slightly understeering car (very slight) is always faster than an oversteering car.
Spring Rates
The Spring Rate controls the transfer of weight of the car. During braking and acceleration the weight of the car shifts forward and backward. Softer front springs aid in shifting the weight to the front, thereby reducing understeer. Softer rear springs allow the weight to transfer to the rear, consequently reducing oversteer. Alternatively, to induce understeer or oversteer, do the opposite and stiffen the corresponding spring rates. Keep in mind that spring rates that are too soft produce a car that is not as responsive as one with a stiffer spring rate. So, you have to find a compromise.
Let's use a medium weight FR car (1200kg) as an example. Since you want more grip at the rear during acceleration in an FR car, the spring rates, if hard, resists the weight to the rear, making the rear hard and want to fight back, loosing grip. So we want to make the rear take more weight during acceleration for better grip = reduce rear spring rate from 16 to ... let's try 13 first. Test it again, see how that goes.
FR cars have more varied requirements. FR cars seem to prefer a slightly lower front spring rate to reduce understeer. Set your front springs up to 2kg lower. But if you experience too much oversteer, reduce rear springs.
MR cars prefer a more neutral spring setting, that is, close front and rear settings.
In an FF car, since the driving wheels are in the front and weight goes to the back, during acceleration, we make the rear spring rates as stiff as possible to resist the front wheels from loosing too much grip by reducing weight transfer to the rear while accelerating. However, the front spring rates must not be too soft (low spring rate#) as most of the car's weight is up the front.
So the next big question is how much Spring Rate is not too much or too little?
This question will depend on the weight of the car itself.
Use this as a general guide only.
Light cars 1000kg or less = values of 9 12
Moderate weight 1000kg to 1400kg = values of 12 15
Heavy cars 1400kg upwards = values of 15 17
Rally cars on dirt only = values of 5 - 7
Spring rates also help soak up the bumps and ripples of an uneven road. Take for instance any city track ripple strip riding is unavoidable, a softer string rate will aid in riding over the strips. As a general rule, reduce your spring rate values by two from the above figures on city and any bumpy tracks. It's easy to make your car too stiff. If this happens, the suspension will not be able to deal with bumps and will hop its way around turns instead of compliantly absorbing the bumps and finding traction
Ride Height
Ride Height is the height of clearance the car has between the bottom of the car and the road. The ride height has an impact on the car's centre of gravity, and thus on its behaviour when cornering or braking. Basically any shift in weight.
In general, lowering the Ride Height will bring the centre of gravity of the car lower, making the car more responsive by decreasing body roll because the weight of the car is now lower.
Raising the Ride Height will have the opposite affect, which will increase body roll.
That was the generalised bit.
Like with all parts of the car that you can tune, Over tuning and Under tuning will each have their drawbacks. A lower ride height in the front than the rear will induce weight transfer to the front increasing the load. This may be what is wanted.
Ride height will also impact the available suspension travel rate, so make sure the spring rate is high enough to prevent the suspension from "bottoming-out". Having the ride height too low and suspension won't work very well. The trickiest part is to have your ride height as low as possible, for maximum tire grip and overall neutral handling balance, while still allowing for enough suspension travel. In order to do this effectively, compensate a lower ride height by adding more spring rate.
Lower front and Higher rear ride height - the weight of the car is shifted towards the front. Provides more stability while accelerating. Brake response is faster since weight is already where the braking power is highest. Best for FF, FR and 4WD cars. (Be careful though, if its too low, you will find the car twitchy and liable to veer off in random directions under heavy braking).
Equal front and rear ride height weight is distributed equally. Best suited for MR cars.
High front and Low rear ride height - the weight of the car is shifted to the rear, provides immediate throttle response during acceleration. Braking response will suffer, however, since more weight shifting during braking from rear to front is required. As such, this configuration is not used very often. If used, probably only FR cars would benefit.
In GT3 and GT4, try to allow at least 10 points from the minimum ride height. And set the rear about 5 points higher than the front. This allows sufficient suspension travel to keep the car stable under heavy braking and weight shift towards the front of the car. On very bumpy roads like Nurburgring or El Capitan, increase ride height and reduce spring and shocks. This soaks up the bumps more effectively.
These work in conjunction with Springs and Stabilizers. To dampen the oscillations of the spring after travelling over bumps and dips. When weight transfers from back/front and side/side, or when you go over a bump on the road, the wheels/tires compress (bound), and when you are past the bump the wheel returns to equilibrium after the compression (rebound) basically the suspension movement, right ? With me so far?
Bound damping affects how far the suspension travels up, towards the wheel well. When the suspension is on its way back down, rebound damping affects how far it goes the other way. More precisely, bound damping affects the compression rate, while rebound damping affects the expansion rate.
If you make your bound damping too stiff, your car will be skittish over rough surfaces. Rebound damping also affects your steering as you transition into and out of corners.
In general, stiffer springs are better suited for flat tracks with sharp turns. They prevent your springs from coiling too quickly, which decreases the dip you have when cornering and braking. Softer springs are better suited for winding, coiling tracks, but theyll also lengthen your braking distance.
is the rate at which the shock compresses.
is the rate at which the shocks decompress. So having bound at 9 and rebound at 2, make the car stiffer when absorbing a bump, compression is harder. The suspension on rebound will not return as fast. This suppresses weight transfer. Not very good because the tire won't make contact with the ground fast enough causing slip = Oversteer. Okay for FF, bad for FR cars. On the other hand, bound at 2 and rebound at 9, absorbs more bumps, but returns the shocks the opposite way fast. You'll find the car literally jump over small bumps. This is also undesirable, as the tire is not in contact with the road. Try this on a Rally car in dirt to see the exaggerated affects, you'll know what I mean. Bound at 7 and rebound at 6, keeps the tires stiff and return to the ground slower. Having bound at 6 and rebound at 7, will result in a good stiff compression of shocks and a higher bound means the tires return a bit faster to the ground but not too fast. This is the ideal configuration, a slightly higher rebound.
Now adjust front bound and rebound to have lower values than rear bound & rebound. This will result in more weight transfer to the front, for example during braking, to provide more grip into the turn.
FR car oversteering? reduce rear bound.
FF car understeering? reduce front bound OR increase rear bound & rebound.
4WD oversteering? reduce front bound AND reduce rear rebound.
MR cars - keep bound and rebound figures the same. MR cars need to be treated a bit like FR but try to keep both front and rear figures the same.
Controls the roll of the car from side to side and helps stabilise the car during cornering. Stiff makes the car respond well to sharp turns. Ie, when you turn the steering wheel (or PS2 controller) you notice the car react to that quicker. Car feels more stable. Downside to that, is if Stabilizers are too high, it reduces weight transfer to the outside tires, reducing grip during cornering and causes understeer or oversteer. Softer allows the car to lean into the turn giving greater grip. But too soft, causes the car to be unresponsive. Eg, Car understeers too much = reduce front stabilizers or likewise increase rear stabilizers. Make the front value less than the rear to reduce under steer. On lower powered cars, less than 450hp, tire spin is less of a risk, so stabilizers can be increased. Take a Mazda MX5 LS setup for an example. Stabilizers at 7 and this thing flies for a <400hp car. On high powered cars, always start with a value of 4 and fine tune from there.
FF drivetrain cars exhibit a slightly different response to the above, you want a higher front stabilizer setting than the rear. This will have an affect of reducing body roll of an FF car, keeping both tires firmly on the road rather than shifting all the weight to the outside tires and reducing grip. However, don't make stabilizers too high or you run into problems of over tuning.
Is the angle of the tires, as viewed from the top of the car.
For the sake of the different value notations in GT3 and GT4 I'll use a generic value notation in this guide. So when I say " -'ve one step from default value" take that to mean -0.5 in GT3, and -1 in GT4.
4WD and FF use -'ve two steps from default / +'ve one step from default (front/rear) as a start. FR and RR use 0 / -'ve one step from default. Negative toe in the rear wheels will stop oversteer because the wheels are at this angle /--\ (looking from the top of the car). That's great for corners but reduces acceleration on the exits and straights because there isn't as much tyre contact to the ground as a zero toe like this |--| . So as you can see there is a compromise.
/-\ = negative toe/ Toe In (view from Top of car)
\-/ = positive toe/ Toe Out (view from Top of car)
In 4WDs and FWDs use negative toe in front and positive toe in rear to reduce understeering. Quick physics lesson. Looking at the diagram above ... when going around a left hand corner the weight of the car leans to the right two tires. The negative front toe makes the car turn sharper left, while the positive toe rear swings the rear further out to the right, making the car point left into the left hand corner. In RWDs and MR cars, use neutral toe in front, and negative toe in rear to reduce oversteer. If RWD is understeering slightly, use negative toe front slightly and neutral toe rear.
The compromise of fixing understeering or oversteering using toe adjustments is that tire wear will increase. There is always a compromise in every adjustment, we don't live in a perfect world. Always try to reduce oversteer and understeer using adjustments to springs, shocks and stabilizers first. Only resort to toe adjustments as a last resort, since any toe value added will increase tire wear.
Unlike TCS, where it reduces power to all wheels equally for traction control, Limited Slip Differential (LSD) keeps tires from spinning by transferring it to the other tires that have grip. Usually during cornering.
Accel = during acceleration, Decel = during braking.
is straight forward. reduces tire spin during acceleration, reducing oversteer in FR cars and reducing understeer in FF cars.
, reduces tire spin during braking. Keep this low at 15 - 20, lest it induces understeer by way of reducing braking power.
: the initial strength of the LSD affect.
LSD is useless on cars with less than 450hp. There isn't enough HP in the car to cause wheel spin anyway. So why have it, as it slows the car down and causes extra understeer.
4WD, as little LSD as possible. LSD stuffs 4WD up big time, causing understeer. Think about it. 4WD already has grip to all 4 tires. If LSD is activated, it transfers grip to the other tires, which REDUCES grip to the tire loosing grip. Silly. You'll see a lot of setups here, that use strong LSD on 4WDs. They think this controls understeer, but really what is happening is that they are reducing the power to the wheels = slower car = less understeer. If you are gonna have high LSD on a 4WD to get rid of understeer, you might as just drive slowly around corners. Use TCS to control wheelspin on high powered 4WDs (greater than 500hp).
FF - High init and accel LSD. Decel LSD as low as possible. But most FF cars are very low power, so don't use LSD. Exceptions are the Type R, FTOs, etc with more than 300hp.
MR / FR - Init (depends on Car's HP), Accel higher to reduce oversteer on acceleration. Low decel LSD to reduce understeer on braking.
I hate ASM, it induces understeer. Anything above 0, causes the car to behave other than it should and negates the tuning done else where. Without knowing how to tune the car you can use ASM, but if you know how to tune it following the above guide, turn ASM off ! If you change nothing else with the setup of the car, change ASM to 0.
In GT4, you will see options for both ASM Oversteer and Understeer. This still does the same thing as ASM in GT3. The ASM Oversteer will reduce power to the spinning wheels during an oversteer situation and vice versa. Again, reduce these values to 0 before you start tuning.
ASM can be reduced to 0 even on unmodified cars.
Traction Control System (TCS) is where power to the driving wheels is reduced in the event of wheel spin. Unlike, LSD, where power is transferred to the opposite wheel that is not slipping, LSD, reduces overall power to the driving wheels. Effectively slowing the car down to reduce wheelspin.
The main aim of TCS tuning is to use only enough TCS to stop wheel spin and drifting. No more, no less. This has the added benefit of preserving tire wear, but not sacrificing too much power.
Finding the right TCS figure for a car is a bit of a Trial and Error effort.
Light and More powerful cars will require more TCS. Heavier and less powerful cars will obviously need less TCS.
A general tuning technique I use is to start TCS at 0. Then ask myself, is the car spinning around slow corners and at take off?
If the answer is yes, then increase TCS by 2.
If the answer is no, then leave it at current amount.
Repeat. Until wheelspin is nil, then reduce TCS by 1. If still no spin then leave it.
You can use TCS to fine tune at this stage. If you want a car that oversteers, reduce TCS a bit from this figure you just reached.
You want to reach a point where the car is not loosing its rear end around slower corners, while still keeping the TCS figure as low as possible to get the most power to the road. On take offs, reduced wheelspin on the spot will increase acceleration.
Fine tuning here can see increase tire wear benefits, but remember the more TCS you use the slower the car is, even if you have better tire wear.
However, when tuning TCS for 4WD cars, it is best to use close to no TCS at all. Since we have 4 driving wheels, there will always be at least one set of wheels with grip even if the other set is loosing grip. By having TCS on at any figure, will just be slowing a 4WD car down.
Always use 0 TCS for 4WD cars.
FR cars benefit the most from TCS.I find anything under 500bhp in GT4 will not need TCS. The weight of the car will also determine the need for TCS. Light cars eg F1, Sprinter Trueno Shigeno, can have TCS at 4 to 6 with great benefit. For heavier cars, start TCS at 3 and tune. You should not need much more than 5, unless you want to conserve more tire wear.
This is not THE rule, just a guide. Tuning is still required.
FF cars benefit from TCS a bit, but not as much as FR cars, since the driving wheels are also the ones that TCS will be affecting. Too much TCS and it slows the car's acceleration and reduces understeer. No TCS and it understeers. So with FF cars, use between 1 to 2 TCS.
Remember, the aim of tuning race cars is to make it as fast as possible, not slow it down with ASM or TCS or LSD. Let the driver do that. Your job as tuner is to get the car to be as fast as possible while still being as controllable as possible.
Use as little as possible on tracks like Test course. All other tracks, higher front DF reduces understeer. Helps stabilise the car at high speeds. Keep front and rear close to the same figure, with a slightly higher rear downforce. What I mean is, avoid figures like 0.5 front and 1.2 rear downforce settings. A difference of no more than 0.2 is advisable. Or in GT4 figures, a difference of no more than 20 between front and rear downforce is advised.
Exceptions for FF cars, where I regularly use max front downforce, with little rear downforce. This helps reduce front understeer and induce rear oversteer.
Only available on 4WDs. The figure in GT3/GT4 is the % amount of power delivered to the front tires. Keep it low to reduce understeer (ie towards 10%). A figure of 10% means that 90% of the power is driven in the rear wheels, making the car almost like a RWD. Except for rally cars. That should get you started.
Stronger front brake balance causes the front of the car to dip more than the back, that is, more weight transfers to the front wheels. Apart from having greater stopping power, it allows better tire contact to allow the car to steer into the corner while under brakes.
Stronger rear brake balance, will cause the rear wheels to lockup slightly (dependant on how strong you set balance) when the weight transfers to front during braking. Causing slight oversteer. Not a bad thing, you might want to induce a bit of oversteer in heavily understeering cars.
Too much front brakes and the front tires will lockup, causing severe understeer, which isn't good. And too much rear brakes can cause the back to lockup causing severe oversteer.
As you can see there is a cause and effect for each setting. Too much or too little of a setting will cause undesired effects. eg, too much front brakes and the tires lock causing understeer. Too little, and the car doesn't stop fast enough, causing the car to continue it's momentum straight ahead.
Set brakes up for maximum stopping power without the front locking up. Depending on the car's behaviour, you can induce oversteer by setting higher rear brake balance. Finding the figure for maximum brakes just short of lockup will depend on the weight of the car (excluding speed) and to some extent spring rates. Obviously, a lighter car will reach lockup before a heavier car. OR, you can just use trial and error, watch the screen for smoke from tires during braking in a straight line. If it smokes up, the wheels have locked up, reduce brake balance. In general, finding the front's lockup threshold is more important than the rear. So adjust front balance first while keeping the rear brake low. Then adjust rear after you find the maximum braking figure for the front, usually 1 or 2 less than front will be good enough (because I'm lazy to repeat it again for rear ).
As long as the front doesn't lock up during braking, it won't understeer. Of course you shouldn't be braking while turning into the corner at the same time, that's too late. You should have done the braking before the corner and be at a speed where you can maintain throttle while in the corner and can floor it just after the apex of the corner.
Camber is the angle of the wheels in relation to the ground. The tire's relationship with the road changes as the suspension moves through its travel.
Ideally, you want a camber curve that keeps the tire straight up and down when you are driving straight, and leans the tire in slightly (1 to 2 degrees of negative camber) during cornering.
So a neutral camber will be |-| (while looking at the car front on),
A Negative Camber will be /-\,
And a Positive camber will be \-/.
(TOP LEFT) Positive camber: The bottoms of the wheels are closer together than the tops.
(TOP RIGHT) Negative camber: The tops of the wheels are closer together than the bottoms.
(CENTER) When a suspension does not gain camber during deflection, this causes a severe positive camber condition when the car leans during cornering. This can cause funky handling.
(BOTTOM) Fight the funk: A suspension that gains camber during deflection will compensate for body roll. Tuning dynamic camber angles is one of the black arts of suspension tuning.
Camber allows the weight of the car lean on the outer tires, providing additional contact in a corner. However, on level ground and straights, the more camber you have the less contact surface area the tire has to the road.
Thus a negative camber in the front tires is always recommended, and in most situations the front camber value should be higher than the rear. Rear camber should be as close to Zero or neutral as much as possible. Thus, providing as much grip to the rear as possible. Unless you are tuning to reduce oversteer, then a little negative camber is okay. On oval tracks, the inner wheels will need positive camber and the outer wheels will need negative camber to counter the angle of the track. Using camber to reduce oversteer and understeer should be treated as a secondary option to adjusting springs and shocks first. Unless you are intentionally tuning for a drift car. 4WD and FWD recommendations, start at default value 2.1 and adjust up to a value of 4. RWD recommendations, start at 2.1 and adjust up to a value of 3.
Using more camber than suggested is unnecessary and will result in reduced grip on flat straights and increase tire wear.
Note: in the GT series, you can only ever select negative camber values. So when the setup screen says front camber is 2.1, that means camber is at -'ve 2.1. Polyphony must have remove the -'ve since you can't set +'ve camber.
Ballast is a GT4 specific tuning option. Ballast allows you to add weight to an already light car, with the specific intention of altering the weight balance of the car. This works hand in hand with Weight Balance.
Weight Balance
Weight Balance is also a GT4 specific tuning option and works hand in hand with the Ballast. After adding Ballast to the car, you are able to adjust the weight balance of the car. You can have either more weight in the front or the rear depending on how the car is behaving.
If you find the car oversteering, you could adjust the weight balance towards the rear, giving you more weight in the rear to reduce oversteering. Likewise, if the car is understeering, move more weight balance towards the front.
I will keep gear tuning to a simplified discussion here. As such we will be using the Auto gear adjustments.
A short gear will result in higher torque but a lower top speed.
A wide gear will result in lower torque but a higher top speed.
With that in mind, tune your gears for each track separately. Using the fastest straight on the particular track as a testing point.
If your revs are not reaching the redline at the end of the straight, you can shorten the gears, until you find the revs just reaching the redline. I find it easiest and quickest to just change the Auto Gears, rather than change the final drive ratio. Changing the final drive ratio does basically the same thing as the auto gear setup, but you could potentially mess up the way the car accelerates if you fiddle with final ratio too much. If you find the gears topping out too quickly on a faster track, just up the auto setting a bit at a time until your top speed just hits the redline.
On some fast tracks like Tokyo, Test track, etc, you can increase the auto gears too, since it's top speed you want more than acceleration. If you find that your revs are topping out on long straights, then increase this auto gear a bit more. If, you are not near the redline at the end of the longest straight, then you have increased the auto gear setting too far, reduce it slightly (towards the left).
Then, on slow tracks, with lots of twisting, like the Cote D' Zor, or Seattle, you can decrease the gearing up to 5 steps from the default auto gear value, since it's acceleration you want not top speed. On the longest straight of these tracks, if you find that you are not reaching the top of 6th, or even lower, decrease the gears until the revs just hits the redline.
Yaw Control. Similar to LSD, this controls the distribution of torque to the left and right wheels. Seems to only be available on Mitsubishi Lancer EVO cars.
Helps 4WD cars reduce understeer and gives a faster turning ability.
If AYC is set too high there is even a risk of creating too much oversteer, and increases tire wear significantly. Although, the car's turn in ability is tremendous.
Try to keep this figure around 80 - 90 (middle), for the best compromise.
These are theories for RALLY setups only.
Spring Rates
Needs to be low (~5-6kg/mm), to soak up the bumps on dirt. Have spring rates at high and you'll have one bouncy car everytime it goes over a small ripple on the dirt road. Increased ride height will compensate for the low sprig rates.
Ride Height
Needs to be high >140. Reason, on landing your jumps, it prevents bottoming out of the car. A higher ride height also compensates for lower spring rates by avoiding the car bottoming out.
These needs to be even on Bound and Rebound. Too much Bound shocks and the tires, don't make contact to the ground as fast after compression. Too much Rebound and the car will bounce upon decompression of the shocks. Now adjust between front and rear for fine tuning of understeer/oversteer control. Softer shocks to remove understeer, stiffer shocks to induce more oversteer. I have slightly, slightly more rebound on front usually, to bring the tires back to the ground a bit quicker after compression of the shocks. Providing better tire contact to the ground and reducing understeer. Eg, front 5/ rear 7 on bounds, front 6 / rear 7 on rebounds.
To your liking. But too much camber stops the car from drifting properly and reduces your tire contact to the ground, ie, less grip. But no camber is also not good. Drifts will be a bit more difficult to control. Keep it between 2.0 and 4.0.
Now, I'm not sure how GT3/GT$ treats toe. But in the game, I think, negative front positive rear helps reduce understeer (in GT3 = -1.0 / 0.5 are good figures to start. Or in GT4 = -2/-1). And Negative rear positive front reduces oversteer (0.0 / -0.5 are good figures to start in GT3 and 0./-1 in GT4).
These will help stabilise the car during drifts. But too much will cause the car to loose too much grip around corners. Have it at about 3 or 4. And remember that a lower value at front will help reduce understeer or likewise a higher value at rear will cause oversteer.
To your liking. As long as it's not too high, that it causes lockup. Generally figures up to 12 should be enough in Rally.
As low as possible or none at all. You WANT the tires to spin, to give you controllable drifts in the dirt. Having LSD turned up will stop the tires slipping and you'll notice more understeer in a corner, especially in dirt.
Important, not! As above, you want to drift and you want your tires to slip. So TURN these off (ie 0) ! You might as well play an arcade game with these turned on. Only exception is TCS, which can be used on high powered cars to reduce wheel spin. But use it sparingly, or else it causes more understeer.
Have it on the lower end, that is, if using the auto gears, to the left. This gives more torque rather than high speed. In most rally courses, High speed is not where you gain time, it's around those slow 180degree turns. Higher torque will get you out of the turns fast. As a starting point, use an auto gear value 5 steps to the left of the default auto gear value.
Yes, please. The more the better. However, keep it even at front and rear. Why? Too much rear downforce and you'll find the car's front flying up during a jump. Vice versa, for too much front downforce. During a jump it will go into the ground nose first. You want to land on four tires, not your bumper bars.
Preferably even to help control drifts. But in practice, I find lower VCD values (ie, more RWD) helps reduce understeer. For Rally, start at 30% and reduce slowly towards 10% to remove understeer as suited to your driving style.
There you all go. May you all go forth and produce awesome rally tunes. Disclaimer - of course, no two cars are the same or behave the same. The theory above is a good starting point. Finding the exact point of setup where the car behaves at it's best is a matter of trial and error and a lot of patience.
Good racing,
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Quiz: How Much Do You Know About Vegan Substitutes?
Update: This quiz is closed as of August 26, 2013.
Say your friend or loved one (or maybe even you) just decided to become a vegan. What happens to the big, buttery birthday cake or cheese pairing for that wine? Do you know much about vegan substitutes? (Does wheat meat mean anything to you?) See how prepared you would be for the new diet. Take the quiz! »

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Britz Campervan Rentals informationWhen you Britz it, every road takes you on a new adventure. Around every turn is a spectacular coastal view, rugged terrain to be tamed or a mountain vista to be explored. Whatever your passion, you will find it in a Britz.
Britz offer a full range of fully equipped 2WD & 4WD campervans with a level of options and services to make every adventure complete, including:
- Convenience of on-board fridge, microwave, gas stove
- Most models offering toilet & shower
- Cooking and living equipment
- Free unlimited kilometres (for 2WD campervans) / 300 kilometres per day (for 4WD campervans)
- Touring maps and discount vouchers
- 24-hour roadside assistance helpline
- One-way rentals available
- Large 2WD and 4WD rental car fleet
- Ability to combine campervan and car rentals throughout Australia & NZ
- 10 dedicated branches Australia-wide
Britz Rentals is the largest specialised leisure vehicle operator in Australasia, offering the most extensive range of Campervans, Motorhomes, 4WD's and 2WD Rental Cars, giving you the flexibility to choose the right vehicle for your holiday!
Britz Campervan Rentals Rental TermsIMPORTANT: Please note that this listing is available to Australian and New Zealand residents only and you will be required to provide identification (passport, drivers license and credit card) upon collection of your vehicle. If you are an international customer, please return to the search page and select your country of residence to see more options. We reserve the right to collect any outstanding monies from your nominated credit card in the event that your booking is confirmed in error i.e. confirmed as Domestic instead of an International customer.
On arrival, you will be required to sign a rental agreement with the operators of Britz Campervan Rentals Australia. Here is a summary of their terms and conditions.
The following definitions apply for the Terms and Conditions for Britz Campervan Rentals Australia.
* The Supplier means the operator of Britz Campervan Rentals Australia.
* The Client is also referred to as the hirer (s) or renter (s).
PAYMENT TERMS * The initial deposit paid is non-refundable. Payment will be deducted from your nominated credit card at the time of confirmation (Visa or Mastercard only).
* The balance of monies owing to is required 33 days before the hire commences. If the hire is booked within 33 days prior to the pick up date full payment is required upon booking confirmation.
* A bond amount of AU$5,000 / AU$7,500 / AU$8,000 is also due upon arrival (Liability and Bond Reduction Option is available be selected at extra cost). This amount is deducted from your credit card is fully refundable when the vehicle is returned to the correct location on time, is full of fuel and all other terms of the Rental Contract have been complied with. Please read the Terms and Conditions for full details.
Note: full balance of payment (including the deposit) will be collected at the time of confirmation if you have elected to process your booking in a currency different to AUD.
The initial deposit paid is non-refundable. In addition to forfeiting your deposit, the following charges also apply:
- If cancelled up to 94 days prior to pick-up: No Further Fee
- If cancelled from 93 to 25 days prior to pick-up: 10% of Total Rental
- If cancelled from 24 to 10 days prior to pick-up: 20% of Total Rental
- If cancelled 9 to 4 days prior to pick-up: 50% of Total Rental
- If cancelled 3 days prior or on day of pick up or No-Show: 100% of Total Rental
- If vehicle is returned early there is no refund available for the unused days.
The Cancellation fee period is based on Australian Eastern Standard time.
Travel Insurance:
We strongly recommend that clients ensure they take out the highest level of travel insurance. In many cases, this will cover any losses incurred if you are forced to cancel your booking. NOTE:
- All daily vehicle rates, the Britz Inclusive Pack rates and the 4WD Max Cover rates quoted are inclusive of Goods and Services Tax (GST) and 3% administration fee and are in Australian dollars.
- The rental basis is per calendar day.
Rental days are charged per calendar day. When calculating the number of days a vehicle is rented, the day of pick-up is counted as day one of the rental. The day of the vehicle's return is counted as the final day of the rental. Vehicles are required to be collected and returned with business hours.
- All rates and conditions are subject to change without prior notification.
Credit and Debit Card Payments
The credit or debit card holder will be jointly and severally liable as a customer. Accepted cards are Visa credit or Visa debit card, MasterCard credit or MasterCard debit card and American Express credit card. A non-refundable 2% administration fee will apply to all Visa and MasterCard transactions or 2.8% for American Express. Credit card administration fees also apply to the Liability Deposit and only the customer's credit or debit card is acceptable to use for the purpose of the Liability Deposit and the Credit Card Authority. The credit card administration fees are subject to change.
Credit Card Authority
The customer authorises Britz to retain the details of their credit or debit card and to take any action to recover from the credit or debit card the amounts due by the customer pursuant to the Britz Rental Agreement Terms and Conditions. These charges including, but not limited to, vehicle cleaning (this includes toilet and waste water tank emptying), speeding, toll way, parking or freedom camping fines, on road assistance, delivery and return of vehicle, late drop off fees, failure to return the vehicle with full diesel or petrol tanks or full LPG bottle (pre-paid fuel and pre-paid gas is included in the Express Return Pack), rental extensions or Exclusions. For security purposes, only the customer's Visa credit or Visa debit card, MasterCard credit or debit card, or American Express credit card can be used for the Credit Card Authority.
- Unlimited kilometres (for 2WD campervans) / 300km per day for the Safari Landcruiser
- Vehicle Liability
- 10% GST (Goods and Services Tax)
- 3% Administration fee
- Linen & Bedding
- Kitchen equipment
- General equipment
- "Like a Local" in-trip tablet with GPS, travel and vehicle user tips and more.
- Customer Care 24 hour, 7 days per week road-service helpline (toll-free)
- 10% off powered sites at all BIG4 parks
All campers are supplied with our exclusive LIKE A LOCAL in-trip tablet which features:
• GPS capability
• Region and destination trip planning content including things to see and do, places to stay
• Booking capability of activities and experiences
• Operational vehicle 'how to' videos
• Safe driving video and information
FEES A fee will apply for pick up and/or drop off on public holidays Note
• The one-way fee if applicable is charged per hire. Minimum one-way rental duration may apply.
• A Public Holiday Surcharge will apply to all rentals picking up and/or dropping off on the national public holidays listed above.
• A Public Holiday Surcharge will apply to all rentals picking up and/or dropping off on the State public holidays listed above. 1 Liability Reduction Option: Reduces Vehicle Liability to Nil for 2WD's and $500 for 4WD's.
2 Single vehicle rollover cover: The customer will not have to pay for the cost of any damage attributed to an accidental single vehicle rollover.
3 Overhead & underbody damage: Unlimited accidental damage to overhead and underbody sections of the vehicle.
4 Towing & vehicle recovery costs: From 4WD roads where permission from Britz is required to travel in advance (see Road Restrictions section for a list of these roads).
5 Unlimited KMs per day: For 4WD rentals Britz recommends travelling no more than 300kms per day. Travelling further distances incurs a 50 cent charge per kilometre unless the 4WD Max Cover has been purchased.
6 Toilet Emptying Service: Only available at our Cairns, Melbourne and Sydney branches
7 Express key return: In conjunction with Liability Reduction Option or the Britz Inclusive Pack and the 4WD Max Cover for 4WD rentals.
8 4WD Max Cover: Can only be purchased in conjunction with the Liability Reduction Option or the Britz Inclusive Pack. Reduces Liability to Nil.
9 Express Return Pack: Pricing and inclusions are subject to change. VEHICLE LIABILITY AND LIABILITY REDUCTION OPTION
Personal injury is covered in most cases through Registration Third Party Insurance. Britz does not accept any liability for personal injuries sustained during the rental. Except where such loss or damage is caused by Britz's (or that of its employees) own negligence or breach of the Britz Rental Agreement Terms and Conditions, Britz does not accept liability for any loss or damage to any personal belongings or property of the Customer (or any person or entity related to the customer). Britz strongly recommends that the customer takes out personal travel insurance to cover any injury or loss. # In the USA a liability is referred to as the "deductible". All vehicles are insured for the damage to the vehicle or to the property of a third party. The customer is responsible for the first $5,000 ("the liability") for the HiTop and the Voyager campervans, $7,500 ("the liability") for all other 2WD campervans and $8,000 ("the liability") for the 4WD products; of the cost of any damage to third party property or to the rented vehicle, including single vehicle accident (does not include single vehicle roll over), windscreen and tyre damage, towing and recovery costs, theft, fire, break-in or vandalism with the exception of the 'Exclusions'. Where the damage is the customer's fault, this also includes the cost of the daily rental for the period the vehicle is being repaired. In addition to these costs, an administration fee of $60 may apply, per claim. The liability applies in respect of each claim, not rental. The $5,000, $7,500 or $8,000 liability can be reduced by purchasing the Liability Reduction Option or the Britz Inclusive Pack.
Liability Reduction Option
Cost per day Liability reduced to
2WD campervans $45 (maximum charge $2,250) NIL
Safari Landcruiser $49 (maximum charge $2,450) $500
When the vehicle hired is a 2WD campervan and the Liability Reduction Option has been purchased, the hirer will have no liability at all with the exception of the 'exclusions'.
When the vehicle hired is a 4WD and the Liability Reduction Option has been purchased, the hirer will be responsible for the first $500 ("the liability") of the cost of damage to third party property or to the rented vehicle. This includes single vehicle accident, windscreen and tyre damage, towing and recovery costs, theft, fire, break-in or vandalism with the exception of the 'exclusions'.
Customers hiring a 4WD who have not purchased 4WD Max Cover will be responsible for up to $8,000 for towing and vehicle recovery costs in the event that towing and vehicle recovery is required from a 4WD road where permission was provided from Britz in order to travel on the roads (refer to the road restrictions section for a list of these roads where permission is required before travel).
The maximum public liability is $20,000,000, sub-limits may apply. Please note that the maximum public liability may change during the course of the year for which these terms apply.
Liability Deposit
If the Liability Reduction Option or the Britz Inclusive Pack is not taken, the customer must pay the Liability Deposit. The Liability Deposit is $5,000 for the HiTop and Voyager, $7,500 for all other 2WD campervans or $8,000 for a 4WD, and is applicable regardless if the hirer has purchased private travel insurance. When the vehicle hired is a 4WD and the Liability Reduction Option or the Britz Inclusive Pack has been purchased the Liability deposit is $500. The customer must provide a valid credit card or debit card to pay the Liability Deposit and the amount will be debited to the customer's credit card or debit card on the day of vehicle collection. The credit or debit card holder must be present and able to sign for the Liability Deposit upon vehicle collection. The credit or debit card holder is jointly and severally liable for any damage to the rental vehicle. Any type of pre-paid travel card is not acceptable as a means to provide a Liability Deposit. The Liability Deposit is subject to a 2% credit card administration fee in addition to the Liability Deposit amount when the card used is either a Visa credit or debit card or MasterCard credit or debit card, or 2.8% when the credit card used is American Express. The credit card administration fees are subject to change. The Liability Deposit is fully refundable, including the 2% credit card administration fee, if the card used to provide the Liability Deposit is a Visa credit or debit card or MasterCard credit or debit card, provided the Vehicle is returned undamaged. Britz recommend that customers use a Visa credit or debit card or MasterCard credit or debit card for the Liability Deposit, as the credit card administration fee that applies when using American Express credit card is not refundable. Only Visa credit or Visa debit card, MasterCard credit or MasterCard debit card, or American Express credit card are acceptable to use for the purpose of the Liability Deposit Exclusions
The Liability Reduction Option will not apply and the customer is responsible for all costs arising out of, or incurred in connection with:
1. Any damage caused by wilful misconduct (e.g. sitting or standing on the bonnet or roof of the vehicle) and driving under the influence of alcohol or drugs and negligence resulting in damage to the hired vehicle or third party vehicle/property.
2. Any loss or damage to any personal belongings or property of the customer (or any person or entity related to the customer), except where such loss or damage is caused by Britz's (or that of its employees) own negligence or breach of the Britz Rental Agreement Terms and Conditions. Britz recommends the customer does not leave valuables in the vehicle and that they take out personal travel insurance
3. Any damage where the customer is charged by the local authorities for being careless, showing gross negligence or wilfulness in failing to abide by the local road rules, resulting in damage to the hired vehicle or third party vehicle/property.
4. Retrieving or recovering a vehicle, which may include, but is not limited to a vehicle that has become bogged, submerged, caught, trapped, stuck or restricted in any way and/or has been abandoned.
5. Replacing keys, which have been lost or stolen, or retrieval of keys which have been locked in a vehicle.
6. Any overhead and underbody damage to the 2WD vehicle however caused, except where Liability Reduction Option or the Britz Inclusive Pack has been purchased.
7. Any overhead and underbody damage to the 4WD Vehicle however caused, except where 4WD Max Cover has been purchased.
8. Any single vehicle roll over except where the Britz Inclusive Pack has been purchased.
9. Any towing and vehicle recovery costs (up to $8,000) from a 4WD road where permission is required in advance from Britz in order to travel, where the Customer has not purchased 4WD Max Cover.
10. Damage caused to the vehicle because total load (kg) has exceeded recommended load as stated in vehicle manual. Vehicles are not to be used for the purpose of transporting and haulage of goods other than what might be reasonably expected of a leisure rental.
11. Damage caused by drivers not identified on the rental agreement and/or drivers whose licence that has been cancelled or suspended and/or drivers who have a licence that is classified as a learners or probationary licence.
12. Any damage caused to the vehicle due to the incorrect use of snow chains
13. Any damage associated with the incorrect use of fuel (fuel being diesel or petrol) this includes Bio-fuel which should not be used, or water or other contamination of fuel.
14. Any water related damage which includes, but is not limited to, vehicle submersion, contact with salt water, creek or river crossings (applies to 2WD vehicles), driving through flooded areas and beach driving
15. The customer has fitted accessories (as provided by Britz or otherwise) to the vehicle incorrectly or otherwise in a manner which causes damage to the vehicle, the accessories or any other vehicle or property.
16. Using the vehicle in contravention of any legislation or regulation controlling vehicular traffic.
Rental Duration
• Minimum rental period is 5 days for same city rentals, with exceptions noted below. One-way hires have increased minimum hire requirements – please refer to the one-way rental matrix below.
• Minimum rental period is 10 days for hires where travel dates include 20 December to 10 January.
• 4 and 6 berth rentals from Sydney that collect during the Bathurst races will have a minimum rental requirement of 7 days. The races usually occur in early October.
• 4 and 6 berth rentals from Melbourne that collect during the Phillip Island races will have a minimum rental requirement of 7 days.
• Minimum and maximum rental periods apply and are subject to change.
• Late pick-up or early return of vehicle does not entitle the hirer to any refund of the unused portion of the rental.
• If the customer wishes to extend the rental whilst on hire, they must first obtain authorisation from Britz (call 1800 331 454). The rental extension is subject to vehicle availability. The cost of an extended rental must be paid by credit or debit card over the telephone on confirmation of the rental extension. The rate charged may not reflect the original rate booked. Failure to obtain authorisation will result in a daily fee of $150 in addition to the daily rate.
OFF PEAK: Britz branches are closed on Sundays during off-peak months. The Britz Alice Springs, Broome, Darwin and Hobart's branches are closed during off-peak months. See below for more information.
Please note that the 4WD Safari Landcruiser is not available to or from Adelaide, Hobart, Melbourne, Sydney and is only available for travel from 15 April 2017 to 13 November 2017 inclusive.
Britz requests that clients collecting or returning their vehicle to be in the office by 1530 hours.
Multiple Rentals
Should a customer have more than one consecutive rental they can be combined to qualify for longer-term hire discounts off the daily vehicle rates.
Details are on application.
Road Restrictions
2WD Campervans can only be driven on sealed/bitumen roads. The only exceptions to this are well-maintained access roads of less than twelve kilometres to recognised campgrounds, major tourist attractions and well-maintained, recognised roads on Kangaroo Island (South Australia). Should a customer wish to travel on an unsealed road that is greater than twelve kilometres in length to access a recognised campground special permission can be arranged pending road condition, weather and distance. Please contact your local representative to discuss.
4WD campervans can be driven on sealed/bitumen roads and recognised unsealed roads with the following exceptions:
- 4WD vehicles may only travel to the following areas with the written permission of Britz (please contact the local branch for further information): Simpson Desert, Strzelecki Track, Gunbarrel Highway, Cape York, the Bungle Bungles, Oodnadatta Track, Birdsville Track, Tanami Track, the Plenty Highway, Gibb River Road, Burke Development Road from Chillagoe to Normanton and Savannah Way from Normanton to Borroloola, Finke Road (between Alice Springs and Oodnadatta), Central Arnhem Road and Arnhem Land in general.
- Vehicles are NOT permitted to travel on the Canning Stock Route, the Lost City in Litchfield Park, the Old Gunbarrel Hwy, the old Telegraph Track section of the road to Cape York, Boggy Hole (Finke Gorge National Park), the Old South Road from Maryvale to Finke and Fraser Island, at any time.
- Vehicles are NOT permitted to travel to Cape York between the months of December to May. At all other times permission is required. The old Telegraph Track section of the road to Cape York is prohibited at all times however the bypass is permissible providing permission provided.
Britz reserves the right at its sole discretion to restrict vehicle movements in certain areas due to adverse road or weather conditions, and the distance to nominated destinations in relation to the length of the hire period.
Should a customer breach the road restriction rules by taking a 2WD vehicle on an unsealed road or restricted road, or by taking a 4WD vehicle on a restricted road; Britz may impose a fee on the customer of $300 on each occasion that is identified by Britz.
Licence and Age Restrictions
A current and full Australian or New Zealand motor vehicle driver's licence is required and must be produced upon vehicle collection. Drivers must be 21 years of age or over.
Change of Drop Off Location
If the customer wishes to change the drop-off destination, they must first obtain authorisation from Britz.
Subject to the change being approved, an additional charge of up to $750 may apply.
Change of Vehicle
Should the vehicle booked be unavailable, Britz reserve the right to substitute an alternative vehicle without prior notification and at no extra cost. This shall not constitute a breach of contract and does not entitle the hirer to a refund.
Voluntary Downgrade
Should the hirer decide to take a lesser vehicle than booked they will not be entitled to any refund.
Note: Britz reserves the right to refuse any rental at its discretion.
Vehicle Age
All Britz vehicles are up to a maximum of 5 years of age.
Britz clients will need to make their own way to and from the Britz branch, at their own expense.
Toll and Traffic Notices and Administration Fees
Britz reserves the right to charge the hirer for any speeding, toll way or parking fines. In addition to the costs associated per fine, an administration fee of $60 may be applicable.
If a customer continues to exceed a speed of 110km or continues to exceed the posted speed limit, as determined by the customer repeatedly ignoring the warnings of the telematics system fitted into the vehicle, Britz may impose a fee on the customer in the amount of $300.
Exchange Rate / Currency Variations
All credit and debit card transactions are conducted in Australian dollars. If a refund is due, Britz will credit the amount due in full to the Customer's credit or debit card. Britz does not accept any liability for credit or debit card fees or bank-imposed fees relating to currency conversion or foreign transactions, which may appear as a variation between the total debited and the total refunded.
Booking Amendments
All amendments to bookings are subject to availability of the vehicle and/or package. Different rates may apply based on the amendment made.
Amendments prior to the vehicle collection date will be re-calculated at the flex rate applicable on the date of amendment. This applies to changing the hirer name, vehicle type, reducing the number of rental days, changing pick-up dates and/or changing the pick-up or drop-off location. Where the number of rental days is being extended prior to the vehicle collection date (days are being added on at the end of the rental with no change to the original pick up date), which applied at the time of the original booking, will apply.
Calculation Errors
Britz will not honour calculation errors. Should a calculation error occur Britz will charge for the shortfall.
On-Road Assistance
Any problems associated with the vehicle, including equipment failure, must be reported to Britz as soon as possible and within 24 hours in order to give Britz the opportunity to rectify the problem during the rental. Failure to do so may impact any claims for compensation. Please contact us on 1300 850 805 or +61 3 8398 8883.
Please Note
This document contains a summary of some of the rental conditions. For detailed conditions, refer to the rental agreement upon vehicle collection.
Illustrations and text in any of our documentation, brochures or website are subject to change. Images are a representation only of the vehicle depicted. Variances in the vehicles offered for rental may occur due to substitutions made by Britz or modifications and/or upgrades to the vehicle design made by the manufacturer. Terms of booking on this website
Information disclaimer
The rates on this website are often heavily discounted. This is due to our negotiated rates and bulk buying power. On very rare occasions, a rate may be displayed incorrectly due to our, or a vehicle supplier's error. In such a case, if you book with us at a quoted rate that is incorrect, we will notify you of any price change and give you the option to proceed or cancel. We make every effort to keep information on our site up to date, but we cannot guarantee this website is free of errors or omissions and retain the right to update or change the information published at any time.
To the extent permitted by law we/the owners of this website will not be liable to you or to any third party (whether in contract, tort, or otherwise) for any direct, indirect or consequential loss or damage (including but not limited to any accident, injury, delay or loss of enjoyment) arising out of your reliance upon information contained on this website, including but not limited to your use (or inability to use) any products or services described or procured through this website.
When you pick up your vehicle, you will be required to sign a rental agreement with the supplier of the vehicle. Your rental and use of the vehicle will be governed by the terms of the rental agreement and any other documentation or information provided to you by the supplier at the time you pick up your vehicle. The rental agreement is between you and the supplier and we will not be liable to you or to any third party in relation to the terms of the supplier's rental agreement or any other documentation provided to you by the supplier at the time of pick up.
While we will make reasonable efforts to ensure we are representing only reputable suppliers, we make no warranty about the fitness or suitability of any third party (supplier) product or service and will not accept responsibility for the quality or fitness of any vehicle. If you encounter issues with the vehicle whilst on hire, you MUST report these issues directly to the relevant supplier at the earliest possible time. This will allow the supplier to remedy any issues and minimise any inconvenience to you. If you fail to report any vehicle issues during your rental, it is likely that compensation will not be offered. We welcome feedback from our customers on their experience with our suppliers. We may, at our discretion, provide you with reasonable assistance in resolving any dispute you may have with a supplier.
Our total liability to you in relation to your use of this website and the information contained on this website will not exceed the dollar amount of the deposit we have received from you in relation to your booking/rental. Refunds will not be made for bookings cancelled due to inclement weather. Again, we strongly recommend that you take out travel insurance. Your use of this website is governed by the laws of New Zealand and the jurisdiction of the New Zealand courts.
Booking information
To make a booking you must complete our booking form which is easy to follow and secured with the latest encryption technology. Once we receive your form, we will, subject to availability, confirm your booking by emailing you a confirmation voucher and invoice. The deposit required to secure your vehicle (as shown on the secure booking page) will only be processed on your credit card when your booking is confirmed. Please note that a 2% credit card or debit card surcharge will be added when your payment is processed.
A booking is confirmed when you have been emailed a confirmation voucher and at this stage the deposit is processed on your card and becomes non-refundable and any cancellation fees stated in the supplier's terms apply. Upon receipt of your confirmation, please check your details carefully and notify us immediately if there are any incorrect details, as it may not be possible to make changes at a later date.
If you are booking via phone, please make sure you have read the terms and conditions of the vehicle you wish to rent first. Our reservations consultant will ask you if you have read the terms and agree to them before proceeding. The onus is always on the renter to ensure they make themselves fully aware of the terms displayed on our website.
Information disclosure
In booking on this website you acknowledge that we disclose your information to your selected Supplier in order to provide the requested rental services.
Please note that some suppliers treat an amendment as a new booking and apply the rate current at the time the amendment is made to recalculate the entire booking amount (not just the days changed). If the rental period is increased, an additional deposit may be required. If the rental period is shortened which results in a reduction of the rental charges, the deposit amount will remain unchanged, and the difference between the original and revised deposit is forfeited (it cannot be used towards remaining rental charges). To request a change to a confirmed booking, please use the alterations request link on your confirmation. Any alterations are subject to availability and the approval of the supplier. In addition to the alteration policy of the supplier stated in their terms, the following charges will apply:
Motorhome rental alterations (all charges stated in local currency): 25.00
The alteration fee will not be charged if your alteration request is not possible.
Vehicle Capacity and fitness to drive
Under no circumstances are you permitted to carry more passengers than the vehicle you rent is legally registered to carry, and if you do your insurance may be invalidated. The number of seatbelts (and passengers) is indicated next to each vehicle on this website. Luggage capacity where shown is an indication only and we will not be responsible should you be unable to fit your entire luggage into a vehicle. It is your responsibility to choose a journey that is within your capabilities. A vehicle supplier can refuse to rent a vehicle to any person who is in their opinion unfit to drive or does not meet eligibility requirements. In such circumstances we will have no further liability to you.
Refund Policy
We are committed to providing a quality service and aim for complete customer satisfaction. In the event of cancellation, any refunds or penalties are detailed in the terms and conditions of your selected vehicle that you are asked to read and accept at time of booking. In the event you are unsatisfied with our service, please contact us within 48 hours of placing your booking or request and we will work to resolve any issues and determine if compensation is due. In the event you have completed your rental and are unhappy with your vehicle, we are happy to assist you in seeking compensation from the operator of the vehicle.
This website is owned and operated by Motorhome Republic Ltd. Our financial centre and marketing office is based at Level 5, 12 Madden Street, Wynyard Quarter, Auckland, New Zealand. In Australia, we are based at Suite 3.01, 11 Queens Rd, Melbourne VIC 3004. Thank you for booking with us.


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My article Teaching as an Act of Love was just published in The American Reporter.
See the Chinese Version as featured in China Weekly.
Author: drcowinj
As an Assistant Professor for TESOL and Bilingual Programs at Touro College, Graduate School of Education Dr. Cowin's focus is on the Responsibility to Touro Students (Teaching), Responsibility to the Discipline (Scholarship), Responsibility to Touro College and Community (Service). Dr. Cowin strives to inspire students to be creative and to model the love of lifelong learning by inculcating the habits and attitudes that create agile mindsets. 21st-century learning extends well beyond the classroom, and Dr. Cowin incorporates takes full advantage of online learning technologies for L2 language acquisition and current global trends in teaching English as a Second Language She represents high levels of scholarship and participates fully in the larger world of TESOL academic discipline. Ongoing research, expressed in scholarly contributions to the advancement of knowledge is demonstrated through publication, presentation and participation in academic conferences, articles in Education Update, blogging and other scholarly activities, including public performances or exhibitions at conferences and workshops such as the Plekhanov University of Economics keynote address in 2018. Of special interest to her are The Blockchain of Things and its implications for Higher Education, Current Global Trends in Teaching English; Developing Materials and Resources in Teaching English – Methodology; E-learning & Micro-Methodology in Teaching English; and E-Resources Discovery and Analysis. View all posts by drcowinj


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Reel World
Student Documenting Skills
Last week, Secretary of Education Dr. Veronica C. García and State Historian Dr. Estevan Rael-Gálvez announced a film and photography contest for ninth-grade students in New Mexico. Students are encouraged to create an "original film or photomontage that relates a traditional trade or career to a community's past." These short film/video/photography projects should also aim to document the education and technology necessary to preserve that trade in the future. Suggested trades for students to document include farming, ranching, construction, weaving and the arts. The deadline for submissions is May 1. Although it sounds suspiciously like extra-credit homework, the four best entries will be selected and those schools will each receive a digital camera package. Student films will also be considered for inclusion in the Office of the State Historian's Digital History Project, and the best projects will be included in a DVD for use by the Public Education Department and schools as a teaching tool. Not too shabby, really. For more information, go to ped.state.nm.us/press/2009/20090202-filmProjectStep1.pdf.
Film Review
Sunshine Cleaning
Amy Adams and Emily Blunt work hard for the money in offbeat dramedy
That the new dramedy Sunshine Cleaning comes to theaters courtesy of "the producers of Little Miss Sunshine" will be of little surprise to those who end up watching both films. Aside from the titular noun, the films share a similar dysfunctional family ethic, a near-identical maudlin sense of humor, the same Duke City setting and crotchety old actor Alan Arkin.
Video Review
Inglorious Bastards (1978)
San Francisco, Calif. ... Gently nestled among the hipster coffeehouses, overpriced hotels and streets teeming with homeless poets sits the Moscone Center, a stark-white building erected in 1981 that serves as geek Mecca over the course of three caffeine-and-comic-book-fueled days. Every year, thousands of eager collectors and fans gather here to worship at the feet of popular culture at the annual WonderCon, the smaller cousin to San Diego's gigantic Comic-Con. During a visit to WonderCon in late February, I had the pleasure of meeting David Gregory, president of Severin films, a DVD label based out of the U.K. that specializes in the distribution of classic Euro-sleaze titles. Personally, I'll take the softcore antics of Emmanuelle over a major studio crapfest any day of the week, so David was a pretty easy guy for me to get along with. And I was surprised to discover that Severin's latest offering is the amazing three-disc set of Inglorious Bastards, a great WWII "men on a mission" flick from 1978.
Idiot Box
SyFy, WTF?
When rebranding goes horribly wrong
In what must go down in history as one of the most misguided attempts to come up with a newer, "hipper" image, the Sci Fi Channel is changing its name. Starting July 7, the longtime cable network will be known as ... drum roll, please ... SyFy! Yeah. Exactly. Huh?
Week in Sloth
The Week in Sloth
"In the Motherhood" (KOAT-7 7 p.m.) The popular web-based sitcom (viewers could send in their own real-life parenting experiences for material) comes to network television. (Hey, it worked for "quarterlife." Oh, wait. No, it didn't.) Megan Mullally, Cheryl Hines and Jessica St. Clair replace Chelsea Handler, Jenny McCarthy and Leah Remini from the Internet version.
"Ben 10: War of the Worlds" (Cartoon Network 10 p.m.) Honestly, I don't know from "Ben 10"—but judging from the action figures crowding the toy aisles at Wal-Mart, it's a popular show among 8-year-old boys. Here's a special one-hour episode just for them.


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More insidious have been the jokers complaining that I post under different names. When I called their bluff and told them that I would post under my own name if they posted under theirs, well, you guessed it.... they cowardly ran like hell and continued to insult me personally under their cowardly monikers - mentioning my real name, place of employment, often without any meaningful debate or discussion.
One rather infantile self-proclaimed scientist/PhD was particularly insulting and challenging: "Eric Blair".
Due to significant evidence, I have determined "Eric Blair" to likely be Mark Martin - biology professor at the University of Puget Sound. His m.o., giving "test questions" and drawing conclusions based on my unwillingness to participate, was so infantile, I could hardly imagine this guy was my elder, and even a professor. I thought him to be some smart ass grad student at a religious college or something. No surprise, he has been in academia much longer than I and hasn't even been able to muster a Full Professor ranking.
This unfortunate science denier - had made repeated comments showing that like most conservatives, his mind is contaminated by politics and he can not accept the scientific consensus on global climate change. When I outed him, he ran like hell, never to have since appeared at Patterico as "Eric Blair." Not surprising that a scientist like him would go to great lengths to protect his identity, the denier he is. Yet he would always mention MY full name and university in some foolish effort to disparage me.
Apparently, he was not smart enough to keep from being tracked. .. touche' Assoc. Prof. Martin. heh....


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Coconut Trees At Mayaro Acrylic Print
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Coconut Trees At Mayaro by Trinidad Dreamscape - 8" x 8"
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Coconut Trees At Mayaro acrylic print by Trinidad Dreamscape. Bring your artwork to life with the stylish lines and added depth of an acrylic print. Your image gets printed directly onto the back of a 1/4" thick sheet of clear acrylic. The high gloss of the acrylic sheet complements the rich colors of any image to produce stunning results. Two different mounting options are available, see below.
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About Acrylic Prints
Mounting Option #1
Mounting Option #2
Bring your artwork to life with the stylish lines and added depth of an acrylic print. Your image gets printed directly onto the back of a 1/4" thick sheet of clear acrylic.
The image is the art - it doesn't get any cleaner than that!
All acrylic prints ship within 3 - 4 business days and arrive "ready to hang" with four aluminum mounting posts (Option #1) or hanging wire (Option #2).
The high gloss of the acrylic sheet complements the rich colors of any image to produce stunning results.
There are two different ways to mount your acrylic print.
Option #1 (Mounting Posts) - Attach your print to your wall with four aluminum mounting posts. The cylindrical cap of each mounting post can be removed, allowing you to thread a small screw along the center axis of the of post and into the wall. When you're finished, simply reattached each cap, and you're done. The mounting posts act as stand-offs and keep your print separated from the wall by 1". All of the required mounting hardware (i.e. posts, screws, and wall anchors) is included with your print. Click here for mounting details.
Option #2 (Hanging Wire) - With this option, your acrylic print is attached to a 1/4" thick black board which has a wooden frame and hanging wire attached to the back. There are no metal mounting posts at the corners. Simply put a nail in your wall, hang your print from the hanging wire, and you're done. Due to the thickness of the black board and mounting frame, your print is separated from the wall by 1.50" Click here for mounting details.
Acrylic Print Reviews (1147)
Average Rating (4.91 Stars):
Vidya Bhandiwad
April 9th, 2020
Beautiful Art with a Big Heart
April 7th, 2020
I asked already several times to cancel this order and this is still not done!
James Murphy
April 7th, 2020
The Great State of Texas displayed in colorful splendor. Lone Star state. Colors and 'splatter' art are terrific. And of course, the only way to display (mount?) the acrylic art is the aluminum post solution provided as an option. Simple, classy. Complete hardware and instructions included.
James Murphy
April 7th, 2020
Love the artwork. Burst of color in my otherwise 'beige' living area. And of course, I have watched this program every Sunday morning for years. Charles Kuralt, Charles Osgood and now Jane Pauley. Great stories. Art and culture, science, human interest. A departure from the 'Sunday morning' talk shows. The aluminum posts are the only way to display the acrylics. Easy, sturdy. All hardware supplied. Easy to follow and thorough instructions. Well done!!
Ronald Young
April 4th, 2020
This was a gift for our daughter in law who is from this area. She loved it! Great job on the photography!
About Trinidad Dreamscape
A collection of pictures from Trinidad and Tobago, for the most part. They were captured between the years 1990 and 2011. We used large format film cameras for the majority of the pictures, with some medium format film captures popping up here and there. More recent pictures would have been captured digitally.
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If you're not happy with a purchase that you made on FineArtAmerica.com, for any reason, you can return it to us within 30 days of the order date. As soon as it arrives, we'll issue a full refund for the entire purchase price. Please note - Fine Art America does not reimburse the outgoing or return shipping charges unless the return is due to a defect in quality.
Fine Art America sells thousands of pieces of artwork each month - all with a 100% money-back guarantee. We take great pride in the fact that hundreds of thousands of artists have chosen Fine Art America to fulfill their orders, and we look forward to helping you select your next piece!
All acrylic prints ship from our production facility within 2 - 3 business days of your order.


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