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- "You'll be my Mary always because mine is the true Mary."
- —Matthew to Mary
Lady Mary Josephine Crawley (born 1891) is the eldest daughter of Robert Crawley, Earl of Grantham. and his American heiress wife Cora Crawley (née Levinson), as well as the mother of the current heir of Grantham, George, whom she had with her late husband Matthew Crawley. Mary has two younger sisters, Lady Edith Crawley and Lady Sybil Branson, who later died in 1920 from complications following childbirth. A potential brother was miscarried in 1914. Through Sybil, she is the sister-in-law of Tom Branson and the aunt and godmother of Sybil "Sybbie" Branson. Although unaware of it as of the summer of 1923, she has another niece named Marigold Gregson through Edith. She is also the granddaughter of the late earl of Grantham and Violet Crawley (through whom she is linked to the MacClare Family) and of Isidore and Martha Levinson.
Physical Appearance: Mary is the epitome of elegance and grace. Slender and tall with thin wrists and long fingers. She is an extremely attractive lady and is sought after by many men through out the series, always appearing at her best. She has sweet-cola waves and dark eyes, accompanied by perfectly arched brows and black lashes.
Mary is shown to be cold, bitter, opaque and quite mean in the beginning but her romance with Mathew brings her kindness and vulnerability to light. She is a caring lady and takes Mathew's death to heart, remaining in mourning for more than six months after his death. Mary proves to be an extremely loyal employee to Anna and Mr Bates as well as to her family and friends too. Despite the constant rivalry between herself and her sister Edith, at the death of her other sister Sybil she and Edith share an embrace and kind words.
The news of the deaths of her two cousins, James and Patrick, is a shock to her because it disrupts the family's strategy for dealing with the entail. The entail requires that the family's estate, incorporating her mother's large marriage settlement, along with the title, to pass to male heirs only. The family had arranged that Mary would marry Patrick, second in line to the title after James, but Mary did not have strong feelings for him and questions whether she must even wear black mourning clothes.
Mary's parents and grandmother focus on finding suitors for Mary, including the Duke of Crowborough, Evelyn Napier, and Anthony Strallan. She herself is seduced by a visitor to the house, Napier's friend Ottoman attaché Kemal Pamuk, who suddenly dies in her bed. Her infuriated mother and head housemaid Anna help her carry his body out of her room and back to his in the bachelor's corridor in order to try to prevent a public scandal that would ruin her marriage prospects.
Mary's relationship with the new heir, her distant cousin Matthew Crawley begins coldly as she overhears him complaining to his mother that he expects the family will "push" the daughters on him. She refuses to acknowledge him as the new heir, declaring that he was "not one of us" and could "barely hold a knife properly". Over time, however, the pair grow closer and a romance develops. In 1914, Matthew asks Mary to marry him, but she is cautious and says she won't give him an answer until the end of the London Season in August. However her mother becomes pregnant, and if the baby is a boy, he will inherit the title instead of Matthew, so Mary refuses to give Matthew an answer, on the advice of her aunt, Lady Rosamund. Another reason for her hesitancy was that she feels she would have to tell Matthew about the one-night "fling" with Pamuk. Heartbroken and angered by her supposed motive, Matthew withdraws his proposal and decides to leave Downton but war breaks out and he joins the British Army.
While Matthew is away, Mary becomes engaged to Richard Carlisle, a wealthy newspaper magnate who, after Mary's confession and request for his assistance, promises to help keep the Pamuk affair under wraps. They plan to marry in July 1919, after the marriage of Matthew and his new fiancée Lavinia Swire, and to move to a neighboring, stately home that Sir Richard plans to buy. After Lavinia's death, it becomes clear that Matthew and Mary continue to have strong feelings for one other. Her relationship with Sir Richard deteriorates and her father, in particular, becomes concerned that she would not be happy with the marriage even if it meant wealth and status. In 1920, Mary breaks off the engagement with Sir Richard and initially agrees to visit her mother's family in America to wait out the Pamuk scandal (as Carlisle threatens to, but does not, publish in retaliation). Soon after, Matthew proposes to her again, on a bended knee, and the pair become happily engaged.
The couple, after a brief moment of doubt the night before the wedding, happily marry in 1920 and take their honeymoon in France. The doubt came after Mary learned from her father he had lost so much money he was going to lose Downton, and that Matthew might be the heir to Reggie Swire's huge fortune. Mary felt if he inherited then Downton could be saved, but Matthew insisted he could not inherit it because he still blamed himself for Lavinia's death. When it came to light Lavinia wrote to her father telling him the whole story and that Reggie respected him still, Matthew refused to believe it, so Mary questioned the servants and learned Lavinia had indeed written to her father (Daisy Mason had posted it). Matthew then accepted it, investing in Downton and saving it.
After Sybil and her husband, former chauffeur Tom Branson, were exiled from Ireland, Sybil went into labor. Mary visited her beforehand, where Sybil mentioned again Tom's wish for the baby to be Catholic like himself and how she realized the baby's christening would have to take place at Downton now instead of Dublin. Mary insisted to Sybil she did not have to accept this, as it was her baby too. But Sybil told her she did not mind, that she did not object to Catholic traditions, and that she loved Tom and wanted this for him. Mary then promised to fight their corner. Like the rest of the family, Mary was delighted at the birth of Sybil's daughter, then utterly heartbroken when her beloved sister died soon after. She gave her a final kiss and said "Goodbye my darling."
Keeping her promise to Sybil, Mary supported Tom against her father to baptize her niece and goddaughter, Sybbie, Catholic. She attended Sybbie's christening with the rest of the family. She also begins to support Matthew's plans for modernizing Downton, which her father initially opposes. While she and Matthew are intent on having children, it is hinted they may be having reproductive issues. Mary and Matthew meet by coincidence at a reproductive health clinic run by Dr Ryder, where Mary reveals she underwent a small and successful operation in order to strengthen their chances of conceiving. Despite previous tension between them, the series ends with them happily reaffirming their love for each other.
In September 1921, an eight-month pregnant Mary travels to Duneagle Castle in Scotland with the family. Branson stayed behind because he was not invited, something that doesn't concern him. After the ball, Mary regrets dancing and tells Matthew that she's returning to Downton the next day. Matthew volunteers to accompany her, but Mary insists that he stay and enjoy the last few days of their trip.
The next day, when Mary steps off the train, she tells Anna to take her to the hospital and notify her husband that she has begun labour. The Crawley family leaves Scotland at once, and Matthew visits Mary at the hospital as soon as he can make it. Mary has given birth to a son and heir. Matthew then says he "feels like I swallowed fireworks" and tells Mary that he loves her more with each passing day and that she'll be an excellent mother. Matthew then drives back to Downton to tell the family they can now visit his son. As Matthew is driving at what appears to be a fast pace, he doesn't see another automobile driving around the corner. The car hits him, and Matthew and his car are pushed off the road onto the bottom of a small slope. The other driver comes out to help, but sees a dead Matthew, pale and bleeding from his injuries. The episode ends on Mary holding her son, smiling, blissfully unaware that her husband and father of her child is dead.
Six months after the death of Matthew, Mary is still struggling to come to terms with her loss, and she is very cold towards everyone. She doesn't appear to have a close relationship with her son George, who she prefers to leave in the care of the nannies, calling him a "poor little orphan". She refuses to wear anything other than black when Anna suggests a lilac outfit and when walking down the stairs, she stops when she sees and remembers the place where she and Matthew once kissed. She also has a rather awkward conversation with her sister Edith on the stairs when Mary realises it was Valentines Day and asks Edith what her plans are for the day, saying she hopes she has a good time. Although many of her family members, including the also widowed Tom Branson and Mr Carson, attempt to help Mary move on, she ignores and dismisses them. Tom feels that Mary needs to find something to fight for and that this should be, as George's guardian, the protection of his inheritance as the next heir to Downton Abbey estate. Her father, Lord Grantham refuses Tom's suggestion, claiming many times that they should not bother her with such troubles. He thinks that since Matthew appears to have left no will and assumes he is to take care of George's share in the estate, then Mary doesn't really have any say.
On one occasion, she gets a little angry with Mr Carson because she didn't feel it was his place to tell her what she should do. It goes from bad to worst at the dinner table that night, when her mother, grandmother and Tom try to encourage Mary to be more involved in the running of Downton to which her father tries to again, protect Mary. She gets upset and upon breaking into tears, tells everyone to leave her alone. She leaves the dinner table and returns to her room. It isn't until her grandmother, Violet Crawley, has a talk with Mary that she starts to come to terms with Matthew's death. She tells her grandmother she feels she has become the cold person she used to be and that perhaps she was only kind in Matthew's imagination. She tells her grandmother she doesn't understand why she has come to talk to her, to which she replies that it because she is her grandmother and she loves her. She is told she must choose between life or death, to which Mary begins to understand that she must choose life. As she begins her attempt to move on, she pays a visit to Mr Carson to apologise for the way she spoke to him the day before. She breaks down in front of him, telling him she doesn't know how to move on. He comforts her, telling her she is a strong woman and she will find a way.Later on, Mary decides to wear a lilac dress rather than a black dress to attend a luncheon to discuss the running of Downton as she finally begins to move on. Shortly after, a box containing Matthew's last things from his office is sent to Downton. Mr Carson decided the box should best be sent to Robert first, in case it upsets Mary. Robert begins to look into the box, and finds within a book a letter that Matthew had wrote shortly before the trip to Scotland. The letter states what he would had wanted in the event of his death, which Matthew had thought was the best thing to do now that Mary was pregnant. Robert hesitates to give it Mary first but he is persuaded otherwise when Violet says it is wrong to keep it from her. Matthew says in the letter he wishes Mary to be his sole heiress. He also states that although it is not properly documented, he intended after this trip for his wishes to be properly written up. However, Robert was still determined that it was not a will and that he will have Murray look at the document. It is later determined that the letter is a will of sorts, and will stand as one. There were two witnesses to Matthew writing the will and it clearly states that Matthew was sure of Mary being his heiress.
It is clear at first that Robert was not too happy at the thought of sharing Downton with Mary. He kept telling Mary that it couldn't have been a proper will. At dinner, she innocently tells everyone she would like her opinions to be heard in the event that the letter is seen as a will. Robert finds himself slightly annoyed at the prospect and hastily informs Mary of the many things she will have to have an opinion on, which makes Mary remark he must have some sort of point and Cora remark that he trying to say a woman's place is in the home.
In light of this, Violet invites Mary and Tom to her home to have a word wih them. She tells them she would like Tom to be Mary's "instructor" and help her to understand how Downton is run, such as the crops on the farms. Tom and Mary happily accept this prospect. Tom later takes Mary out to discuss how Downton is run. They talk about the death duties and how much tax there will be to pay. Tom tells Mary that her father intends to sell part of the land to pay it off in one lump. They both determine that they disagree with Robert's idea. When Robert finally accepts Matthew's letter is a will, Mary tells Robert of her disagreement with his plan to sell part of the land, to his dismay.
Mary and Tom work together more on the estate, even working on a new venture into pig farming. She meets an old childhood friend, Tony Foyle, now Lord Gillingham, who pursues her. She turns him down as she has not yet moved on from Matthew. But he gets a kiss out of her, and later when she learns of his engagement she secretly feels regret.She then reunites with her old suitor Evelyn Napier, but does not get along well with his boss Charles Blake. She believes he cares not for the landowners. But after some new pigs arrived in poor condition she and Blake both willingly get dirty in order to help them, after which she and Blake start to respect each other more (he originally believed she was unwilling to work for Downton), and he develops feelings for her himself.
Lord Gillingham returns, having broken off his engagement as he is still determined to win her over. Her family takes note of her numerous suitors.
Mary is the first to know Rose has entered a relationship with Jack Ross. After Rose reveals her plans to marry him, she goes to London to speak to Ross himself. He impresses her with his honesty and love for Rose, but also in his decision to spare Rose pain from society by calling it off. She later speaks to Rose at the bazaar. She is also the second person to learn from Mrs Hughes about what happened to Anna. Anna then reveals to Mary who the culprit was, and Mary feels she has to do something. So she meets with Lord Gillingham and insists that he fire his valet Green without telling him why. He later informs her of Green's death at the bazaar.
Mary receives a visit from Lord Gillingham who proposes they become lovers. She agrees to his offer and they arrange for a secret rendezvous in Liverpool. Mary tells her family she will instead be spending time with a friend, Annabelle Portsmouth. She tells Blake she is sorry if she has hurt him, but he insists he is happy for her. He asks only that she be certain she is making the right choice because he feels that she is far smarter than Lord Gillingham.
Anna is very nervous about Mary's decision, especially when Mary has her go to a pharmacy to purchase items for her to prevent pregnancy. After enjoying themselves, they are spotted by Spratt, Violet's butler. He informs Violet who immediately comes up with an excuse to explain their being in Liverpool. However Violet has Mary come to her house and confront her with what she knows. Mary insists she is being modern and that there is nothing wrong with it, but Violet insists that it is and that Mary has been seduced.
Mary immediately claims that they want to set a date but nothing has been settled. Violet urges her to make a decision. But Mary begins to regret what she has done and later confides to Tom she feels she has made the wrong choice, because she now thinks she and Gillingham have very little in common.
After Tom begins to voice his political opinions again, Mary remarks that she feels Tom is changing back into who he is, which she admits will be a bad thing for the family but not for Tom. She later tells Tom though she does not approve of his friendship with Sarah Bunting, who had helped begin to revive his political views, and that she still does not want him to leave Downton.
Family Relationships
As a woman, Lady Mary cannot inherit her father's earldom in her own right (that is, inherit the title after his death). As the eldest child of the family, she might have been able to inherit Downton Abbey and the money associated with it, but the estate was entailed to the title by her grandfather at the time of Robert's marriage to the American heiress Cora Levinson, Mary's mother. As a result, the next male heir in the line gets the title, the estate, and Cora's money, which cannot be separated one from another by law. First in line to inherit was Mr James Crawley (Robert Crawley's cousin), followed by his son Patrick (Robert's first cousin once removed). In order for Mary to retain the family's wealth and eventually become mistress of Downton, she had been prepared to marry Patrick and the families had secretly considered an engagement between the two, but in April 1912 both heirs drowned on the R.M.S. Titanic. It is obvious that Mary, who has a pronounced independent streak, did not love Patrick in a romantic way. She tells Sybil that what makes her truly sad is that she is not sad enough about Patrick's death, and bemoans the fact she has to wear black in mourning for him.
- "I wish Matthew was here. It's funny. it's like I'm an half of myself without him."
- —Mary to Isobel about Matthew
Mary also feels guilty about the Pamuk affair, and feels that she needs to tell Matthew about this before accepting him. This hesitation leads to Matthew withdrawing his proposal as he wrongly believes she only wants to marry him for his future inheritance of Downton, the title, and the money that accompanies this inheritance. Although Matthew cries, he tells Mary, who also is crying, that he does not want to remain at Downton, and that the "experiment is over." Matthew has plans to return to Manchester where he was a city solicitor. Mary asks, "if I had accepted you, would you have stayed." Matthew answers, "of course." Mary is devastated. Matthew's plans to return to Manchester are immediately interrupted as Mary's father announces that England is at war with Germany. Matthew leaves for the war, and they do not speak for two years as he is at the front. While on leave in London, he mends his broken heart with a new young lady named Lavinina Swire. He proposes marriage to her, even though he barely knows her. Matthew returns to Downton with Lavinina in 1916 to introduce her to the Crawleys. Days before Lavinina is due to marry Matthew at Downton in 1919, Lavinina becomes ill with Spanish Flu as does Carson and Mary's mother Cora. While she is resting in bed, Mary finds Matthew and the two of them dance to a phonograph record. Matthew tells Mary that he is "so sorry" for breaking up with her four years prior, and now wishes that he could break up with Lavinina and marry her instead. Lavinia, now standing on the stairs, overhears what Matthew has told Mary and also catches them kissing. Lavinina returns to bed and informs Matthew what she saw and heard, and that she does not want to go on with their wedding. Lavinia believes Matthew belongs with Mary and has been having doubts for quite some time. Matthew feels guilty, and only hours later, Lavinina suddenly dies of Spanish Flu. Matthew tells Mary at Lavinia's grave that they broke Lavinina's heart, she lost the will to live, and that "they are cursed." Mary then walks back to Downton with her fiance Sir Richard.
During the Christmas and New Year celebrations of 1919 and 1920, Mary and Matthew become closer, but Mary's fiance Sir Richard Carlisle, looms as a threat. Mary is very unhappy with Sir Richard and grows to dislike him. Matthew presses her for an explanation for her continued engagement in light of this distaste. When she breaks off the engagement with the permission and support of her father Lord Grantham, she decides to weather the storm of scandal caused by her one-night stand with Kemal Pamuk and go to America to visit her maternal Grandmother to wait it out. Mary finally tells Matthew one night that she is not "pure" and that Kemal died in her bed. Although Matthew is shocked and stunned, he tells Mary that he never would, and never could, despise her. At the Servant's Ball soon thereafter, Mary stands alone in the falling snow at night, contemplating her trip to America. Matthew comes outside and asks her to stay. He tells Mary that the Kemal scandal will never come between them, he now believes that Lavinina would want him to be happy, and that they have both lived their lives, and it is time to live them together. Matthew proposes to her and she happily accepts.In Spring 1920, Matthew and Mary are ready to get married, but have arguments over an enormous inheritance that Matthew might receive from Lavinia's deceased father. Mary's father has squandered Cora's money in a bad investment with a rail road. The family will be forced to move to smaller quarters and will have to sell Downton unless Matthew helps them out, which he at first refuses to do, as he feels guilty about letting Lavinia down. Mary thinks about calling off their wedding, but Tom and Matthew talk her into going through with it because "as long as they both walk the earth, they couldn't be with anyone else." Mary and Matthew finally wed, six years after his first proposal. Matthew is very anxious to start a family, but wrongly believes Mary is hesitant. As the months go on, Matthew believes he cannot father a child due to the severe bruising on his back during the war. At one time, Matthew was paralized from the waist down and was impotent as a result. Both Mary and Matthew secretly go to the same fertility doctor in London, where they run into each other in the waiting area. Mary has a small (undisclosed) operation and soon gets pregnant in January 1921. The Christmas Special episode, set in September 1921, sees an 8-months pregnant Mary going to Scotland with her family by train. Going on a very bumpy ride to a picnic and dancing later on, causes Mary to feel uneasy, and she wants to leave the next morning with Anna to return to Downton via train. After returning early from Scotland without Matthew or her family, Mary goes into labour after getting off the train, and Anna and the luggage porter immediately bring her to hospital. Mary tells Matthew's mother that she "only feels half herself without Matthew." Matthew rushes to the hospital several hours later as a "hot and dusty traveler" to find Mary holding their son and heir. Matthew then tells Mary that he falls more in love with her everyday and the two share a sweet moment with their unnamed son. Matthew then drives to Downton to tell the family in person about their son. Matthew's mother Isobel, waiting at Downton, has already told the Crawley family that the baby is a boy, but she has not seen the baby or Matthew. Matthew, extremely happy about the birth of his son, drives quickly to Downton while looking at the trees on the right side of the narrow dirt road. Matthew is not paying attention to the road, instead thinking about Mary and his son while looking at trees and speeding, and is forced to make a sharp turn to the left at the last second, avoiding an oncoming delivery truck coming up a small hill. Matthew's car rolls down the embankment and lands on top of him. It appears that Matthew has broken his neck and has died instantly. Later it is shown that Matthew has apparently suffered a skull fracture as well, as blood slowly pours down his face. The episode ends with Mary holding their son, smiling, unaware of the fatal accident of her beloved husband.
Six months after his death, Mary still struggles to come to terms with the loss of her husband. As a result, she doesn't have a close bond with their son who she called George, thinking him to be a "poor little orphan". Mary refuses to wear any outfit except black, which is traditionally worn in time of mourning. She breaks down during a dinner with her family, saying she doesn't understand how, having survived the war he had to die in "a stupid car crash" and later on she tells Carson she doesn't know how to move on. Eventually, she attempts after a heart to heart conversation with Violet to finally come to terms with her loss.
To prove to her family and Matthew that she has moved on, Mary encourages the advances of a very wealthy tabloid owner. When Mary is sufficiently convinced that Matthew is no longer in love with her, she makes the decision to marry Sir Richard Carlisle. Mary tells Sir Richard everything about her brief relationship with Kemal Pamuk in order to protect herself and her family because Mr Bates's first wife, Vera Bates, has threatened to go to the newspapers with the story. Sir Richard buys the legal rights to Vera Bates's story to keep it from publication, and Mary believes she will forever be in his debt.
However, Lord Grantham notices Lady Mary's unhappiness with Sir Richard and asks his wife, Cora, whether there is something he ought to know about the situation. Cora tells him about Mr. Pamuk. Lord Grantham approaches Mary and gives her his full support and permission to break off the engagement and weather the potential scandalous storm that may follow.
Mary breaks the news to Carlisle, who threatens her with ruin and insults Matthew. Matthew and Sir Richard come to blows and Sir Richard decides to leave the next day. Mary tells him that she feels partly responsible and apologizes for using him. Sir Richard tells her that he loved her more than she knows, but he still won't feel obligated to hold back the scandal from the papers.
After her grandmother thinks Sybil might have a secret love, Mary sees Tom talking to her and is suspicious. Later she insisted Tom could not talk with Sybil about other things than his job and was shocked to learn of his love for Sybil and desire to run away with her, saying to Sybil, "You and the chauffeur?!" She only promised not to give Tom away as long as Sybil did not do anything rash. After learning Sybil decided to marry Tom and persuading her not to just run off, she told Tom she was confident she could persuade her to end her engagement and offered Tom money for the room they were in. He said he would pay and return the car.
When Sybil does marry Tom however, she supports Sybil's efforts to help bring him closer to the family, promising as much to Sybil that they would "know him and value him." When Larry Grey drugs Tom during one dinner, making him appear rude and loud, she tells the entire dinner immediately after finding out, and supports Matthew's wish to make him best man. After Tom is suspected of being involved in a terrorist attack in Ireland, she attacks him verbally, accusing him of dancing around an estate that was burned.Following Sybil's death however, she immediately grows much closer to Tom, defending his decisions to baptise his daughter Catholic (since Sybil told her prior she didn't mind and Mary promised to fight their corner) and name her Sybil. Tom named Mary Sybbie's godmother. She also asks his opinion on Matthew's plans for Downton, as well as continuing to insist that the family (specifically her father and grandmother) call him by his first name instead of his last. She grows considerably closer to Tom following Matthew's death, and spends much more time with him.
She confides in Tom after rejecting Lord Gillingham, that she may regret it for a long time, without divulging what actually happened between her and him. She also encourages him to talk to someone when she sees something is wrong (when Edna Braithwaite had sexually abused and was trying to trick him into marrying her). His telling her she would despise him only makes her sympathize with him more, saying she once said the same thing to someone, but talking about it made her feel better (to Matthew about Pamuk). But when he still does not tell her, she tells him to find someone he can tell, because it would make him feel much better. He does, going to Mrs Hughes, and he later tells Mary (after Edna left) that he feels much better. Later, when her father suggests someone was rude to him, she immediately wanted to know what happened. But even then he says nothing.
Tom and Mary continue their work with the estate. When Tom tells the family he is considering moving to America and taking Sybbie with her, though others (such as Cora) are worried about this, Mary alone speaks out against it, insisting he has made a new start at Downton and that they do not want to lose him.
Other Relationships
Believing Mary will inherit the estate after James and Patrick's deaths, he organises a visit to Downton in order to court her. She is at first bewildered and then intrigued when he convinces her to explore the servant quarters, an area of the house in which the family would have rarely ventured. They enter footman Thomas's room, where the Duke rummages through the drawers. Mary is uncomfortable about this and is apologetic when they are caught by Bates. The reason for this visit to Thomas' room was that the Duke had had an affair with him once in London and was looking for the love letters he had written so that Thomas could not blackmail him now that he knows Mary is not to inherit Downton.
Evelyn Napier, a family friend, visits Downton accompanied by a Turkish diplomat Kemal Pamuk, a young man so strikingly handsome that even the Earl remarks upon it. Pamuk immediately lusts after Mary, a feeling she reciprocates. Later he blackmails Thomas Barrow, who has mistakingly made an advance, into showing him where her room is so that he will know where to go that night. Even though Mary resists his early advances, she is nonetheless coerced by him when he enters her bedchambers. He assures her she will remain ostensibly a virgin for her husband, and she submits-- fearing what would happen if she does not. Later that night, Mary wakes up head housemaid Anna Smith to report that Pamuk suffered a heart attack and died in her arms. Together, with the help of her mother Cora Crawley, they carry him to his own room, in the distant bachelor's corridor, so that he may be discovered the next day dead in his own bed and not in Mary's. This scandal will haunt Mary for the rest of her life, should it ever be revealed to the public. However John Bates' first wife, Vera Bates, is aware of Lady Mary and Kemal Pamuk's story and has threatened that she will go to the newspapers with the story. Lady Mary informs newspaper editor, and future fiance, Sir Richard Carlisle, of her indiscretion, Vera Bates and Vera's threat to make the story public. Sir Richard buys the legal rights to the story from Vera Bates and keeps the story out of the newspapers. After Lady Mary's father notices that his daughter is unhappy, Cora tells him everything about Kemal. Lord Grantham tells his daughter to call off her engagement with Sir Richard, and he will support her if and when the story is made public. After her engagement is called off, Sir Richard tells Lady Mary he will feel no regret when he exposes the scandal which may bring ruin upon Lady Mary and her family.
Mary has a closer relationship than you would expect a member of the family to have with a servant and their mutual fondness is obvious. When Mary was considering marrying Sir Richard Carlisle she asked Mr Carson to come be their butler and as much as he would have hated to leave Downton, he initially accepted to help Mary. When Mary married Matthew she asked his opinion of her dress, and he stood with her father, watching her walk down the stairs almost with the eyes of a father. After Matthew's death he comforted Mary, holding her as she cried.
Six months after Matthew's death, there is a party "to help lift Mary's spirit", which Lord Gillingham, an old childhood acquaintance of Mary, attends. They grow closer day by day. The second time they meet, they go to a trip in London where they dance together. Eventualy, he proposed to Mary. Mary is flattered but hesitant, saying that she isn't "free of Matthew", and cannot accept. Gillingham then asks her to kiss him, and she does. Lord Gillingham then becomes engaged to Mabel Lane Fox.The next time they meet is when Charles Blake, an old friend of Tony's with whom he served in the military, and Mary's old suitor Evelyn Naipier arrive at Downton. At this time, Tony's engagement to Mable Lane Fox is public. When Mary learns it was Gillingham's valet Green who raped Anna, she asks Tony to sack Green, although she won't tell him why. Gillingham says he would fire him because he loves her, and at one point, he tells Mary that he has broken off his engagement because he is determined to win her nonetheless. At the church bazaar, Tony tells Mary that Green mysteriously died in some kind of accident, and is mystified at the coincidence of her request and Green's death. Later, at Rose's ball, Tony is the first to take Mary to the dance floor. They leave together for some privacy, where Tony nobly discloses Charles wealthy status and the estate Charles will inherit. Blake is clearly jealous, but dances until dawn with Mary. In the early morning light, Mary questions Charles about his reticence of his noble connections, and he states that he wanted to win her on his own. For the first time, Charles appears as a suitor equal to Tony in the quest for Mary's hand. She declares, "Let battle commence" as the scene concludes. In Series 5, Tony says that he wants him and Mary to become lovers, Mary agrees as long as it is kept secret and therefore visits Tony at Liverpool's grand hotel for her tryst with him. She feels that she needs to get to know Tony well before accepting him as she wants to be as happy with her second husband as she was with her first.
When Blake first appears at Downton with Evelyn Napier, Mary and he do not get off well. She sees him as an enemy, while he feels she is conceited and thinks herself superior. However, when both dirty themselves in mud in order to help some new pigs that have arrived, they start laughing and eat together in the servant's dining hall. From that point on, Blake is smitten with Mary.
Mary, though she enjoys Blake's company, still feels by 1923 that a relationship between them could not work because he opposes everything she stands for. But then her opinion on that matter changes after she learns he is heir to a title, estate, and fortune in Ulster. However in Series 5 Blake, accompanied by his friend Simon Bricker, came to Downton to view the paintings. Blake just wanted an excuse to see Mary and concedes that she prefers Tony Gillingham more than him and tries to wish her luck.
- "Oh dear, if I answer truthfully you'll think me rather forward." - to the Duke of Crowborough when he asks if she likes being alone with him (Episode 1)
- "I don't believe a woman can be forced to give away all her money to a distant cousin of her husband's. Not in the 20th century. It's too ludicrous for words." - to her mother, Cora, referring to her cousin Matthew, who will inherit her father's estate (Episode 2)
- "You and my parents have something in common." - to Kemal Pamuk, attempting to get him to leave her bedroom as he advances and begins to kiss her, "You believe I'm much more of a rebel than I am." (Episode 3)
- "Everything seems so golden one minute, then turns to ashes the next. Can I ask you a question, Carson? Have you ever felt your life was somehow...slipping away? And there was nothing you could do to stop it?" - to Carson after the death of Kemal Pamuk, "The odd thing is, I feel...for the first time, really, I understand what it is to be happy. It's just that I know that I won't be." (Episode 3)
- "You should learn to forget what I say. I know I do." - to Matthew at the fair, referring to previous critical remarks she made to him about the middle class (Episode 4)
- "Women like me don't have a life. We choose clothes and pay calls and work for charity and do the season. But really we are stuck in a waiting room until we marry." - to Matthew, discussing his work and her life at the fair (Episode 4)
- "Haven't you heard? I don't have a heart. Everyone knows that." - to Anna in a conversation about how she is recovering from the Kemal Pamuk affair (Episode 4)
- "So I'm just to find a husband and get out of the way?" - to her father, Robert, about Matthew inheriting the estate. He responds, "You could stay here if you married Matthew." She replies, "You know my character, Father. I'd never marry any man that I was told to. I'm stubborn. I wish I wasn't, but I am." (Episode 4)
- "I wish you'd just admit it! I'm a lost soul to you! I took a lover with no thought of marriage! A Turk! Think of that!" - to her mother, Cora, about Cora giving up the fight to break the entail (Episode 4)
- "All alone with plenty of money and a house in Eton Square? I can't imagine anything better." - to Sybil, referring to their Aunt Rosamund's situation (Episode 5)
- "How many times am I to be ordered to marry the man sitting next to me at dinner?" - to her mother, Cora, before dinner with Sir Anthony Strallan (Episode 5)
- "I'll admit that if I ever wanted to attract a man, I'd stay clear of those clothes and that hat." - to Edith when Edith teases her about Matthew (Episode 5)
- "When you laugh with me or flirt with me, is that a duty? Are you conforming to the fitness of things?" - to Matthew after he rescues Sybil from a riot and refers to it as his "duty" (Episode 6)
- "You can't be sure I was going to refuse you, even if it had been a boy. Because I'm not." - to Matthew when he withdraws his proposal after Cora miscarries. A son would have displaced Matthew as heir. (Episode 7)
- "Would you have stayed if I'd accepted you?" - to Matthew, after he withdraws his proposal and tells her that he's leaving Downton. He replies, "Of course." She answers,"So I've ruined everything." (Episode 7)
- "I wanted to give you this. It's my lucky charm. I've had it always, so you must promise to bring it back without a scratch." - to Matthew as he departs for the war (Episode 1)
- "'Goodbye then. And such good luck!" - to Matthew as he departs for the war (Episode 1)
- "Dear Lord, I don't pretend to have much credit with you. I'm not even sure that you're there. But if you are, and if I've ever done anything good, I beg you to keep him safe." - Mary praying for Matthew at the battlefront (Episode 1)
- '"Well there you are then. One day you'll meet someone else and you'll marry. Perhaps it'll be second best, but it doesn't mean you can't have a life." - to Anna, asking for her advice about marrying Sir Richard, and referring to Anna's true love, Mr. Bates, who left Downton with his wife (Episode 2).
- "The truth is we're very much alike, so naturally I think she's perfect." - to Matthew when he asks for her opinion of Lavinia (Episode 3)
- "You sound as if you were going to gobble her up." - to Violet when she mentions inviting Lavinia to tea (Episode 3)
- "No names, no pack drill." - to Matthew about the private battle between Isobel and Cora over the running of the hospital at Downton (Episode 3)
- "Why must she be so savage? It's my broken heart and it was her advice that wrecked it in the first place." - to Violet about Rosamund, who plots to break up Lavinia and Matthew (Episode 3)
- "Poor Matthew. What must he do to persuade you that he's in love with Lavinia? Open his chest and carve her name on his heart?" - to Lord Grantham when he offers Matthew as an alternative to marrying Sir Richard (Episode 4)
- "Oh, darling, darling, don't be such a baby. This isn't fairyland. What did you think? You'd marry the chauffeur and we'd all come to tea?"- to Sybil about her relationship with Branson (Episode 4)
- "Matthew, are you feeling a little less groggy?" - to Matthew when he wakes in hospital (Episode 5)
- "I don't think we can say 'should' about things that happen in war. It just happens. And we should live with it."- to Matthew when he says that William should be alive too (Episode 6)
- "Your lot buys it, my lot inherits it." - to Sir Richard about finding furnishings for Hacksby Park (Episode 6)
- "With you at the helm, there's much more chance of a smooth crossing." - to Carson about coming with her to run the new household when she is married (Episode 6)
- "Well, I suppose one has to live somewhere." - to Sir Richard about Hacksby Park (Episode 6)
- "Of course not. Would I ever admit to loving a man who preferred someone else over me?" - to Sir Richard when he asks if she is still in love with Matthew (Episode 7)
- "Of course it's the end. How could it not be?" - to Matthew after Lavinia's funeral when he tells her that they can have no future together because they are the reason Lavinia died (Episode 7)
- "It was lust, Matthew! Or a need for excitement, or something in him that I...Oh, God, what difference does it make? I'm Tess of the d'Urbervilles to your Angel Clarie. I have fallen. I am impure." - to Matthew when she tells him about her affair with Kemal Pamuk (Christmas Special)
- "Oh, Matthew, you don't mean that. You know yourself we carry more luggage than the porters at King's Cross." - to Matthew when he asks her if she would stay at Downton if he asked her to (Christmas Special)
- "You must say it properly. I won't answer unless you kneel down and everything." - to Matthew as he proposes (Christmas Special)
- "Now stop talking and kiss me before I get cross." - to Matthew Crawley, her husband.
- "I'm glad to hear it. I should hate to be predictable." - to her fiancée Matthew Crawley at the altar before they are going to marry. He said he wasn't completely sure she would come as they had had an argument the night before.
- "Oh, do pick him, Carson, and cheer us all up a bit. Alfred is nice, but he does look like a puppy that has been rescued from a puddle." - to Mr. Carson on why he should hire Jimmy the handsome candidate as footman.
- "I'm never against you. But you've lost on this one." - to her father, Robert Crawley, on why he should give up the fight and to let baby Sybil be christened Catholic.
- "...And in my book, the Countess of Grantham lives at Downton Abbey. Simple." - to her mother Cora on why she cannot live at Downton Place.
- "We must speculate to accumulate." - to Tom
- "We must rise to life's challenges." - to Edith in response to Edith's comments about Mary becoming a fledgling businesswoman.
- "I expect many people must regret things they got up to in London." - in 1923.
- "It's no good, Tony. I can't, I'm not free of him." - to Lord Gillingham after she turns down his proposal, as she is not yet moved on from Matthew.
- "Yesterday you said I fill your brain. Matthew fills mine, and I don't want to be without him, not yet." - to Lord Gillingham
- "Do you think she is having a good childhood?" - to Tom about Sybbie.
|Appearances and Mentions
|Series 1
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|Series 3
|Episode 1
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|Series 4
|Episode 1
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|Episode 8
|Christmas Special
|Series 5
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|Series 6
|Episode 1
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|Christmas Special
- In "The Chronicles of Downton Abbey: A New Era" by Jessica Fellowes and Matthew Sturgis, Julian Fellowes relates that the character of Mary Crawley is based on both his wife (who resembles her in appearance) and his "indomitable" mother. He says that Mary and the character of Emma, have "the quality of shaping their own destiny, rather than abiding by the rules of others".
- Mary is often shown to be noticing other characters when they are acting in a unusual manner due to underlying issues.


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How to Begin Your Higher Ed Institute's Digital Transformation
Wipro/Appirio Delegation Present at Educause Higher Ed IT Conference
Student Experience Bolt - Higher Ed
Making a Case for Einstein Analytics in Higher Education with Actionable Insights
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There are many ways to transfer data (files) from a PC to a Mac, including:
- using the Migration Assistant built into OS X Lion and later
- using the "PC Data Transfer Service" at Apple Retail Stores and Apple Specialists
- using a portable hard drive or storage device
- using a CD or DVD burner
- using other portable media
- using a shared file server
- using email
- using a direct Ethernet connection
- installing the PC's hard drive in the Mac, if compatible
Migration Assistant
OS X Lion and later has a Migration Assistant application designed to easily move files, programs, and settings from your old Windows-based PC to your new Mac. For more information, see About Windows Migration Assistant.
PC data transfer from Apple Retail Stores and Apple Specialists (United States only)
Apple Retail Stores offer several levels of data transfer services. For further information on PC Data Transfer services, contact your local Apple Retail Store. In addition to the Apple Retail Stores, many Apple Specialists, Apple Resellers, and Apple Authorized Service Providers also provide various levels of PC to Mac data transfers. To locate an Apple Specialist in your area, use the Find Service website.
Portable hard drive or storage device
Portable hard drives that can be used to transfer data from a PC to a Mac include FireWire (IEEE 1394, iLink) drives and USB-based drives or storage devices. Portable FireWire drives provide the fastest transfer rate, and are widely available. However, unless the PC has a FireWire port, which is not common on PC computers, you will not be able to use a portable FireWire hard drive. A portable USB hard drive can be used if no FireWire port is available on your old PC.
CD or DVD burner
Creating a backup disc of the files on your PC is one of the easiest methods you can use to transfer any amount of data. This method provides the added benefit of creating a backup of your data.
Other portable media
Using portable ZIP, Jaz, magnetic optical (MO), or other forms of portable media is similar to burning a CD, and, as long as the media device can be used on both the PC and Mac. Using these forms of portable media is an excellent way to transfer any amount of data.
Shared file server
A server on a network that can be accessed by both your old PC and your new Mac is an excellent alternative to burning CDs, or moving portable drives from one computer to another. Be aware that both computers must be able to access the server.
For small amounts of data such as word processing documents, pictures, or small application data files, using email to send them to yourself as an attachment is another option. However, if the data files are large, or if you do not have a high-speed Internet connection, you should consider other methods before using this one.
Some Internet service providers (ISPs) place restrictions on how large email attachments can be, so you may not be able to use this method with large data files, even if you have a fast Internet connection.
Direct Ethernet connection
If you have both computers in the same location, you may be able to use an Ethernet cable to connect both computers together and copy files between them. You may need an Ethernet crossover cable depending on which model Mac you own. This method has the advantage of being fast and being able to transfer any amount of data.
Moving the PC's hard drive
While it is possible to move some PC hard drives into some model Macs, this is not the recommended method of transferring data and it should only be used by experienced computer users who understand how to install and format PC hard drives. Mac OS X v10.3 or later can read the contents of an NTFS-formatted drive, but will be unable to save any new files or make changes to existing files without first reformatting the drive (and deleting any existing data on the drive in the process).


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Fremont, New Hampshire
|This article is a stub. Help us to expand it by contributing your knowledge. For county and town page guidelines, visit U.S. County Page Content Suggestions.
Fremont is a town in Rockingham county, New Hampshire. It was formed in 1764 and has gone by the following other name/s: Exeter Poplin. For more information, contact the county at P.O. Box 20, Fremont 03044. On the attached map, Fremont is shown as 17 in Rockingham.
For information about the state of New Hampshire see New Hampshire Family History Research.


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Second guy, too. Fun. Real fun. (Vocal harmonica. Next minute and 45 seconds or so.) Well worth watching. Amazing! But, again, sorry
Third guy (beginning about 3:20)
But then the show goes off the charts.
Fourth guy: the vocal DJ. Now I'm impressed. Blown away. "How does he do that?!?" (Ends at about 6:25.)
And for the grand finale?
Sorry. You've got to watch and listen to the human electric guitar.
Yowzie! (About 6:30 to 7:22.) I didn't know a guy--any guy--could make his voice go that high, much less while he's blowing the speakers. But you've got to listen to it. Jimmi Hendrix has been
With thanks to my brother David.


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Summary and Keywords
How do courts affect social policy? Answering this question is deceptively complex. Part of the challenge stems from the sheer scope of contemporary judicial policymaking, particularly in the United States, where litigation reaches into nearly every nook and cranny of the American welfare state and casts a shadow on policy issues ranging from marriage equality to healthcare reform. Another obstacle is that scholars remain deeply divided on fundamental questions about the nature of judicial decisions and how their policy effects should be studied. These disagreements, in turn, have engendered three very different approaches to studying the role of courts in social policy that often talk past each other. The dominant approach views judicial decisions as prescriptive rules—legal commands from the bench—and asks to what extent do judicial decisions change policy? This view implies that judicial decisions are "treatments" whose efficacy should be tested by measuring shifts in policy outcomes from the pre- to post-treatment period or across treatment and control groups. An alternative tradition envisages judicial decisions as a potential resource, which can be used by activists as leverage in building movements and pursuing agendas in multiple forums. Here, the core question is not whether court decisions produce abrupt policy shifts, but how activists use them to challenge the status quo, mobilize interests, and generate pressure for policy change. A third approach sees legal precedent as a constitutive framework that shapes and constrains policymaking and its politics over time. The test for whether law matters under this approach centers on the degree to which judicial decisions influence the developmental trajectories of policy and politics, which includes consideration of paths not taken in the policymaking process.
That is not to say that the literature is wholly discordant. Despite their significant conceptual differences, these approaches tend to converge on the general idea that judicial policymaking shares many attributes with other policymaking processes: the implementation of judicial decisions, like statues and regulations, is contested and subject to capture by sophisticated interests; litigation, like lobbying, is a form of mobilization that seeks to translate policy grievances into effective political demands; judicial precedents, like other policies, generate policy feedbacks. Identifying similarities among judicial policymaking and its counterparts is a signature achievement in the study of courts and social policy, which has largely dispelled the "myth of rights" and simplistic notions that the law is somehow removed from politics. Yet it arguably has an unintended effect. Normalizing judicial policymaking—making it seem like other types of policymaking—threatens to render it less interesting as a distinct topic for research. This article suggests the time has come for all of the various research traditions in the field to return to foundational questions about what makes judicial policymaking distinctive and systematically study how these particular tilts and tendencies influence the continuing colloquy that drives the policymaking process.
Keywords: courts, litigation, rights, judicialization, social policy, implementation, mobilization, policy feedbacks
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Hate Shaving? Learn to LOVE It! September 18 2017, 1 Comment
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My Venture into Shaving - A Beginner's Sojourn. October 23 2013, 2 Comments
Some time ago I asked if anyone who was relatively new to the 'wetshavng' fraternity wished to write a "Guest Blog" about their experiences so far for this website. The following is by Derek Sword CSCS, OMS-III who comes from Pikeville, KY USA.
Let me start by saying this…It is VERY difficult to express something to others in an articulate manner, when the subject isn't something you're quite sure you understand yourself. You know you like something, but why do you like it? Because of how it makes you feel, or the memories it offers? What is it that keeps my mind going when it comes to the world of shaving?
Maybe it's the history, sophistication, and classic nature that is so desirable. Maybe it's ALL of that - and that's what makes wetshaving a special hobby for me.
About two years ago shaving evolved from something I did on a near-daily basis - begrudging to my sleep schedule and personal hygiene as a grungy teenager. Eventually it became a routine that is nearly as elaborate as my wife's clothing closet!
My mind can't help but wander to a quote I read from a book recently: "It is always the simple things that change our lives. And these things never happen when you are looking for them to happen. Life will reveal answers at the pace life wishes to do so. You feel like running, but life is on a stroll."
I know, for a fact that I love to shave. I love the scents each new cream I try can provide, the feel each brush I use has on my skin. I get excited to try new products from all parts of the world. I want to break the fragrances, textures and qualities down to their basics.
I've had hobbies, good and bad, that have stolen many hours of my life in the past. But never, have I had a hobby where I have found so much complexity and interest all at the same time. From the time my Dad began to introduce me to names like Proraso, Genco, Torrey, Case and Boker.
My collection of 'straights'
I immediately took note of everything he said. It was like I was finally being commissioned into this "Manly Gent's Club" after so many years of living in the dark! I was finally going to just wake up the next morning, have my steam shower, beautiful, young blonde hanging off my shoulder and straight razor in my hand, ready to conquer the world!
Needless to say, after that first day of having shaving cream running all over my face, blade marks everywhere, and razor burns for days it was much more than I had imagined!
When I discovered all that the 'male grooming' market had to offer, I was easily overwhelmed with where to start. I remember thinking there wasn't enough money in the world to try all the Truefitt & Hill creams, the Trumper soaps, as well as the Dovo and Theirs-Issard blades.
Was it my technique that was killing my ability to master the shave? Was it the products I've been using that were just poor for my skin? Or was it just that I wasn't 'sophisticated' or 'manly' enough to figure this thing out?
You see…these simple things I had never noticed before had become my biggest social priority! I wanted to run into this brand new part of my life grabbing, taking and using every shaving implement and product I could!
Instead of slowing my pace to a casual stroll, I steam rolled ahead leaving no room for my sense of "patience" to take over. Finally my Dad, thank God, decided to pull me aside and say "Derek, don't get in a hurry. Find some things you like and use them, stick with them and learn the basics. Learn how to master the basics, you'll eventually learn what you like the most and then you can just add to that." Great advice indeed!
Fortunately, since that great debacle years ago, I have had the great opportunity to meet people like Iain Kane (@VillageBarber) and Craig Whitely (@CraigtheBarber) who can give professional guidance to anyone, regardless of their experience, who appreciate this ever developing art of shaving. They helped me gain confidence in what I love and also showed me that this isn't something to be hidden or embarrassed about.
Probably, like some of you reading this, I live in a community where shaving and grooming products aren't really spoken of at all. There are no stores for men's products or spas where we can go for a nice hot-towel shave. Even mentioning names like Proraso, Dovo, Truefitt & Hill, or even The Art of Shaving will get you some pretty strange looks. It's a small coal mining town where money is abundant for the very few and scarce for the very many. I love my home but boy are these people sure closed off to a lot of the things the rest of the world has to offer!
To everyone reading this then, I guess this is my take on all things 'wetshaving'. It's from the same book I used an excerpt earlier:
"I never liked jazz music because jazz music doesn't resolve. But I was outside the Baghdad Theater in Portland one night when I saw a man playing the saxophone. I stood there for fifteen minutes, and he never opened his eyes. After that I liked jazz music. Sometimes you have to watch somebody else love something before you can love it yourself. It is as if they are showing you the way."
And that's the sentiment I want to leave the readers of this blog with. I've found something different, that I didn't appreciate before until I saw someone else love it. This elaborate form of Men's grooming and subtle form of pampering. I have people like my Dad, Iain Kane and Craig The Barber who I look to for new products, advice, and technique to only further my appreciation and passion for shaving. These are the people from the above excerpt "showing me the way". I want to encourage everyone reading this to do the same: close your eyes and dive in again…like it's the first time, rekindling the passion you have for a hobby you love. Don't let it end, don't let it resolve, keep the music going!
P.S. Shameless plug for myself. My Dad and I restore, clean, & hone antique straight razors and resell them on eBay. We only sell them when they are at the highest restored level and shave ready. If you have Twitter, follow me @dsword10, I update our selling list weekly. If you have eBay my username is omt2013. We carry all the famous brands like Ambossmann, Wade & Butcher, Joseph Elliot, etc. Please look us up or simply tweet me. I would love to meet some of you or chat with you about wet shaving, products you've tried or tricks you have picked up along the way.
Author: Derek Sword & his wife Annie
Mantic59's 4 Tips For Shaving Success With The Merkur Progress Razor April 02 2013, 0 Comments
Mantic59 is one of the best known online personalities in the wetshaving community. His shaving-related videos have received accolades from fellow shaving enthusiasts and professional barbers alike. It was therefore my great pleasure to ask the man himself if he would write an exclusive piece for the Village Barber website. He very graciously agreed and, here it is - his personal tips on how to shave with his beloved Merkur Progress DE.
Iain Kane (@VillageBarberUK)
A Merkur Progress
"It is no secret that my favorite DE razor is the adjustable Merkur Progress. I've often said that it will have to be pried out of my cold, dead hand. I have plenty of razors in my collection but I keep on coming back to the Progress. Here is how I use it with success.
First, like some other razors (such as the Bakelite Slant) there is no need for a high performance blade. My personal favorite blade for the Progress is the quite middle-of-the-road Israeli-made Personna, also sold under the Crystal brand. Derby blades--which many people dislike--also work well for me in a Progress. High performance blades such as Feathers will work in the Progress but, for me, there's something about the combination that makes it less than ideal.
Second, rest a finger on razor head when installing a blade. This will prevent the head from shifting slightly, causing an asymmetrical blade exposure on the sides of the razor.
Third, grip the razor so that its angle is more parallel to the skin. Unlike most other razors the Progress bends the blade quite dramatically so if you are used to another razor you will have to adjust your hold accordingly. I now find this grip more "natural" than other DE razors (and similar to Single Edge razors like vintage Injector or GEM units, even some modern cartridge razors).
Fourth, start mild. I always make my first reduction pass on a low setting: about "2" on my Progress will comfortably reduce the worst of my stubble (remember, Progress razor settings are not necessarily consistent across all units manufactured). Then I raise the setting for the rest of the shave (usually about "3" or so). If I need to do a "touch & cut" cleanup I will drop it back down to a much milder setting."
The Role of Natural Oils in Shaving December 05 2012, 0 Comments
I often get asked for my take on the various oils used in shaving products from Olive oil to silicon based lubricants and what benefit, if any, they have on the skin.
Then too, I am frequently delighted to receive phenomenal feedback from wetshave enthusiasts and fellow professionals alike after they've tried my own Village Barber brand of Shaving Oil and I'm asked "What makes your Shaving Oil so exceptional?"
So, I decided to ask Christos Katsis, a clinical aromatherapist
and aromacoligist with over 30 years experience as a product designer and natural product
maker to give me his professional view on the matter.
Christos states: "If all you want is something to ease the glide of the razor over the skin then it doesn't much matter whether you use Olive Oil, Silicon based lubricant, chip pan fat or lard - all will give glide to the razor.
Olive Oil, for instance, in dietary terms lowers cholesterol and blood pressure and is good for the heart generally.
In terms of topical application, it can be good for burns and relieves some itching from stings and bites.
In terms of cosmetics - the ancient Greek Athlete's used it for "scraping" - rubbing it onto the body then scraping with a sharp knife to clean the skin and remove body hair before competing in the Olympics.
As far as shaving the beard with it is concerned however, it is very thick and tacky and provides little glide. Plus, even the smallest required amount needed would clog the razor with the first pass - pretty useless in other words as a practicable shaving agent.Olive is also a weak astringent which I guess is a benefit.
The Birth of Village Barber Shaving Oil
Any plausible shaving oil must be about more than just glide. Indeed, most men know from experience the problems that can arise as a result of shaving - from razor burn and skin irritation through to various skin problems arising out of the daily stripping away of naturally produced oils from the skin.Therefore, even the most accomplished shaver needs help if he is to restore the correct balance of oils in his skin, and that is where Village Barber Shaving Oil comes to the fore.
Village Barber Shaving Oil and Aftershave Balm are the result of the collaboration between Iain Kane, a top professional Barber for over 30 years, and myself. The Oil and Balm have been field tested by Iain and evaluated by industry and market professionals and, without exception, feedback has been universally positive and the products have already proved to be award winners.
Base Oils - Benefits
Whilst the base oils used in Village Barber Shaving Oil - Extra virgin and unrefined Avocado oil (Persea gratissima) and Virgin, Cold-pressed Sweet Almond (Prunus amygdalus dulcis ) - do give wonderful glide to the razor, the oils themselves are also naturally rich in vitamins A, B1, B2, B6, D and E. The combination of both is an excellent emollient (skin softener), is anti-inflammatory, moisturising and highly nourishing to the skin promoting healthy and young looking skin.
Avocado and
Avocado extracts are key ingredients in many anti-wrinkle and anti-ageing
creams - Avocado is well known for promoting both healthy skin regeneration and
skin rejuvenation. Avocado has a higher
degree of skin penetration than almost any other oil and effectively promotes
suppleness of the skin - Avocado, as any nutritionist will confirm, is a
complete food in itself.
Sweet Almond is so gentle and anti-inflammatory that it is widely used to treat nappy rash in babies, sunburn and relieves itchy skin caused by conditions such as dermatitis.
Perfect Blend
I hope you can see why we have combined these two wonderful, therapeutic grade oils to make the base for the Village Barber Shaving Oil but it doesn't end there. To the wonderful combination of Virgin Sweet Almond and unrefined, extra virgin Avocado we have added a synergistic blend of 14 therapeutic grade essential oils.
The synergistic blend
of the carefully selected 14 therapeutic grade essential oils (individual oils used can be seen on the ingredients page of this website and, of course, on the labelled product itself) brings together a wide range of well
known therapeutic properties inherent in the individual oils - anti-inflammatory,
anti-irritant, anti-bacterial, skin regenerating, skin balancing, cleansing,
moisturising, sebum balancing, anaesthetic and antiseptic - and it smells
great too!!
So, whilst shaving with chip pan fat will give razor glide, it is hoped that you will agree that over 60 years of combined experience in the worlds of professional Barbering and Clinical Aromatherapy have produced two products that will deliver the perfect shave and so very much more!"
Copyright - Village Barber Shaving Products 2012
The Myth Behind Shaving Foams & Gels October 31 2012, 2 Comments
Over the years I have been repeatedly asked for my opinion on the use of canned foams and gels when it comes to shaving. These 'time-saving' products may do just that - save you time, however, with the best will in the world, they will not give you a great shave - and here's my professional opinion why.
The modern man, who is uneducated when it comes to shaving (and that accounts for the vast majority - after all, who teaches a guy how to shave?!) has simply become accustomed to seeing 'white stuff' squirted directly from a can on his face whilst shaving. After all, that's what all the adverts depict, right?
Sadly, they neither know nor understand the underlying reasons behind exactly why they are using it. "To soften the beard" they say. Oh really? So exactly what part does a canned foam or gel play in 'softening the beard' when it is on the face for only a matter of seconds before being scraped off by the razor?
Indeed, I challenge you to find any canned foam or gel advert that actually demonstrates to the viewers exactly how to apply the foam or gel. The advert starts by showing the guy already 'lathered up' and, by doing so, the producers of the advert miss out the most important part of the shave - the appropriate preparation of the beard!
Perhaps a little explanation of the 'science' behind 'the white stuff' may help some to understand how canned foam came about and therefore why it is used.
Too Busy to Shave
Unfortunately, the modern and at times frantic pace of life coupled with men's ignorance when it comes to shaving, has led shaving companies who mass produce these foams and gels, to appeal to those who want to get 'the dastardly deed' out of the way as quickly as possible.
Simply put, as your face is on show to all and sundry together with the fact that you also have to live with the consequences of your shaving habits, it is in your best interest to learn how best to look after it - and that means learning how to shave correctly using the best products for your skin type as well as the correct technique.
What does 'the white stuff' actually do?
When a traditional barber shaves a guy he should use a quality shaving soap or cream together with a quality shaving brush and very warm water. It is the actual process of applying the soap/cream to the beard using circular motions with the brush and adding the water as needed thereby creating a lather - a process which should take several minutes to undertake as it opens the pores, softens the beard and the heat from the water being continually added relaxes the more than 30 facial muscles - this is what is actually preparing the beard ready for shaving. Canned foams and gels merely give you instant lather without the vital preparation of the beard.
Be honest, if you have ever shaved using canned foam or gel, how long is the 'lather' actually on the face for before you start to shave? Seconds! So frankly, it can say "For Sensitive Skin" a thousand times on the can, but if the foam or gel simply isn't on the beard long enough to do what it's supposed to do - prepare the beard - then you'd be as well squirting it down the plughole for all the good it's doing! The canned stuff was designed by marketeers who simply wished to 'cash in' on the 'too busy to shave correctly' man. And boy, have they cashed in!
Instant foam and gel out of a can also need a propellant to squeeze the stuff out of its container. These propellants tend to dry out the skin rather than help add moisture. Add into the mix also the chemicals, alcohol and parabens usually contained in these products and you have a recipe for red, sore and irritated skin!
Remember then - wet and warm are the two key assets to a great wetshave. Therefore, acquiring and maintaining moisture in the beard throughout the shave is of paramount importance. That will rarely, if ever, be achieved with canned foams and gels!
Warm - Don't Cool Before Shaving! July 11 2012, 0 Comments
Having recently had some discussion with other shaving enthusiasts about the use of menthol in shaving products, it surprised me really the amount of guys who still use such products pre-shave. Here's my take on it:
Menthol. derived from peppermint oil, when used on the skin prompts the thermal receptors to produce a cooling sensation and for this reason it is often used in skin products that must have a cooling action (IE for muscle strain injuries). However, to prepare properly for a good wet shave, you really need to be warming your face, not cooling it, and here's the reason why.
We have over 30 muscles around the head and face area. What happens to a muscle when it is cold? That's right, it contracts and tenses. Hence the reason why all sportsmen and women 'warm up' prior to engaging in their sport - they don't want to strain, pull or even tear a muscle by exercising it cold!
We too want our facial muscles to be warm, thus relaxed and flexible when shaving.
That's why all good barbers use 'hot towels' as part of the preparation stage when shaving. Such hot towels serve to soften the beard, open the pores and, importantly, warm and thus relax the facial muscles prior to shaving.
If you were to then apply a menthol or any other heavily minted product onto the face, it would be counter-productive as you would immediately be 'cooling' the face again!
Is ALL Cooling Wrong?
I am not 'anti-menthol' by any means - minted products have local anesthetic and counter-irritant qualities which, when used correctly and at the right time - IE after shaving - serve to relieve and comfort.
Indeed, the therapeutic effects of menthol include germicidal and tonic effects as well as the fact that it reduces itching and tenderness.
However, it is the local anesthetic action that it produces immediately before the actual shaving process that is the most commonly used reason for utilising its use in shaving products. Whilst this may well have been seen as "beneficial" 50 years ago, the use of natural oils has moved on considerably since then. Therefore, it is basically 'tradition' rather than any well founded science that keeps such products alive.
Local Anesthetic
By the very fact that some would wish to create a 'local anesthetic' effect prior to shaving indicates that they expect to experience some sort of pain as a result of the shaving action - hence the need to 'mask' it. However, when we learn to shave correctly, a close, comfortable experience should be obtained without any pain at all. In fact, if we experience pain at anytime before, during or after shaving, we are doing something wrong. Pain is the brain's mechanism to tell us that something is not as it should be and therefore to stop doing what we're doing. Pain serves to protect us from further damage!
When to Cool
Only after the shave do we want to 'cool' the skin and that's where mildly minted products have a role to play in my opinion. To go from very warm to very cold instantly also has proven benefits to the circulatory system which, in turn, helps replenish the new, young skin cells after shaving. Hence, it is good to always splash your face with cold water immediately after shaving or even wrap a face towel which has been soaking in very cold water around your face! That's the time to cool!
Happy Shaving!
What's the rush?! Learn to shave correctly! May 31 2012, 1 Comment
Iain at The Village Barber has over 30 years experience in professional shaving. Here are some of his tips for a great shave!
Sadly, the correct technique of 'wet shaving' is a dying art. Life, it seems, has become just too hectic in modern times to allow men the time necessary to shave properly!
With clever (and somewhat misleading) marketing, we're led to believe that with the quick squirt from an instant foam can, immediately followed by an almost effortless glide over the beard with the latest 'best shave ever' multi-blade razor, we will not only exhibit a face smoother than a baby's bottom but also be irresistible to women!
The reality however is usually quite different, right lads? Red, sore, irritable skin due largely to incorrect shaving.
The simple truth when it comes to a good, comfortable shave lays in the preparation of the beard before shaving. It's something that simply should not be rushed. So what if it means getting up five minutes earlier in the morning, you won't regret it! Remember, your skin is living tissue, treat it as such! A well executed shave serves not only to leave you 'clean shaven' but is tantamount to a beauty treatment as you exfoliate the dead skin cells from your face.
Correct Technique
The first essentials to a perfect shave are water and warmth. When hair absorbs hot water it becomes softer and easier to cut and with warmth the skin and facial muscles become relaxed, making shaving so much easier. Thus the best time to shave is after a bath or shower. Soaking a flannel in hot water and wrapping it around the face for thirty seconds can also achieve a similar effect.
Next, massage a good quality shaving oil into the beard with your fingers. This will not only help soften the beard but also hydrates and feeds the skin leading to a much smoother, irritation free shave.
If you use a top quality oil, such as my acclaimed Village Barber 100% Pure & Natural shaving oil that I use on my customers, there is no need to use a shaving soap as well. However, if you prefer to be pampered with the full works when you shave, as do my customers when I'm shaving them, you can also use a good quality, glycerine based shaving soap which helps keep the skin and beard warm and wet during the shave. Alcohol based shaving foams and gels have the opposite effect, dispersing moisture and cooling the skin, which can cause irritation whilst shaving.
The Shave
Always shave with the grain of your beard. If a second shave is required, move the blade sideways across the growth. Never shave against the grain (unless you're professionally trained) as this can pull the skin in the wrong direction causing small cuts and 'grazing' to the skin and is the most common cause of 'razor burn', ingrown hairs and shaving rash. Always finish your shave by rinsing your face with cold water to close the pores and pat the face dry with a soft towel leaving the residue shaving oil to soak into the skin (never harshly rub your face).
Caring for the Skin
As alluded to earlier, a good wet shave exfoliates and cleanses the face, leaving smooth new skin cells. Newly exfoliated skin needs to be protected from the elements, so it is important that men use a good quality aftershave balm such as my Premium 100% paraben-free Village Barber Aftershave Balm which will feed, protect and moisturize the skin. Never apply an alcohol based product such as cologne onto your newly shaved face as this will have the complete opposite effect and disperse any remaining moisture and almost certainly inflame the skin - as well as sting! If you want to smell great with your favourite cologne, apply it to what is known in the trade as the 'hot spots', the area behind the earlobes and on the sides of the neck. By doing this, you'll still smell great but you won't have damaged your skin in the process!
Happy shaving!
**Why not view Iain's shaving tutorial videos on the homepage and really get the Professional's touch when shaving!
Questions? Email Iain at: email@example.com


text:
Taptalk does not work for me but. I hit add for the forum but doesn't add it just hangs the app not good. Who manages the code for the current app? It needs some tweaking and l want to fix it as l use it and drives me nuts lol
My AE86 4AGZE to 3SGTE thread
Check out my sale threads for 4age and ae86 parts
Platinum Automotive Smash Repairs - Padstow


text:
The daughter of Rolling Stones rocker Keith Richards has been arrested on minor drug charges after she was seen by patrol officers writing graffiti on the side of a Manhattan building.
Theodora Richards was arrested on charges of unlawful possession of marijuana, making graffiti and possession of a graffiti instrument. She was awaiting arraignment in Manhattan criminal court.
Officers on patrol said they noticed the 25-year-old model in front of 190 Prince Street in SoHo, painting the letters "T-N-A'' on the side of a building around Tuesday around 10:45 p.m. It is unclear what wall she was painting, but 190 Prince Street is home to St. Anthony's Convent.
When they arrested her, they found a small amount of marijuana and a paint marker, police said.
It wasn't clear if Richards had an attorney. A message left at her home wasn't returned. A message left with her dad's attorney wasn't returned.
She has modeled for Burberry and Tommy Hilfiger and lives in SoHo. Richards and her sister, Alexandra, are daughters of Keith Richards and his longtime wife Patti Hansen.
The leathered, craggy guitarist has two other children.
One of the best-known rockers alive, Keith Richards has a best-selling memoir "Life'' about his hard-living days with the Rolling Stones and frontman Mick Jagger.
The Rolling Stones have a song called "Little T&A,'' on their album Tattoo You, though it's not clear what exactly the younger Richards was painting or if it was linked to that song, police said.


text:
Nothing too exciting, just school and work and family and blah. BUT I got straight A's this semester which is not so Blah. Only two classes but they were pretty homework intensive classes so I'm counting it as a solid Win. The best class was my Concepts in Creativity class. Learned some great creativity exercises but the best part was being able to design fun stuff that wasn't limited to a Corporate Color Scheme or business line. Also? My professor was really good and I told her as much when I picked up my final assignment and grade. Knowing that I'm ever the socially awkward gal, this is no small thing. It would've been easier to slip in, pick up my project then email her later. I really wanted to let her know that I appreciated her class and also find out what other courses she teaches so I can have her again. Guess what? She said I was a very good student (duh) and am very creative and very talented. SQUEAL! AND there was another student in the room picking up his project and I heard him say, "Yeah, you are."
It's one thing getting a good grade, it's something else entirely hearing it from your professor and a fellow student. Call me whatever but I need reminders every now and then that I'm doing the right thing.
For now, I'm going to enjoy the summer off (of school, at least) and try not to dwell on the FOUR MORE FRICKEN YEARS OF SCHOOL I HAVE LEFT due to only being able to take two classes at a time and no graphic design courses being offered during the summer. At least I've got a couple birthday parties to design invitations and other party things for.
(check out the left column. See that little button/sticker/badge/rectangle thing? If you're at all interested in digital scrapbooking, go there. It's a great site. Trust me.)
Filed under: Me!Me!Me!, School | 1 Comment »


text: A versatile performer, this shoe excels in the mountains, on the roads and everywhere in between. Dubbed the Clifton for trail running, this updated CHALLENGER is cushy, fast and very surefooted. The now well established HOKA midsole geometry and early stage mid-sole rocker promise a smooth ride, and the '3's supportive fit through the mid-foot makes for an even more comfortable experience on road or trail. The breathable upper with reinforcing overlays, and rubber-tipped lugs for all-terrain traction, complete the offering.