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Full Traction Suspension Jeep JK Wrangler
3″ Ultimate Lift Installation Write-Up
110 Comments so far
jsmoriss August 5th, 2007 9:15 pm
Thanks for th great write-up!
Some people, like myself, will be using this lift with 33″ tires. What do you suggest as a starting point for caster angle? Will the bump stop extensions limit the flex prematurely for 33″ tires? Are there thinner bump stop extensions available for 'smaller' diameter tires?
BTW, your write-up is just in time! I should be installing this lift in 2-3 weeks (just waiting for it to ship from Quadratec).
Red7 August 5th, 2007 9:47 pm
Thanks so much for this write up! I've never installed a lift before but after reading this I'm not at all worried. This lift is sitting in my garage and my '08 4dr Sahara is supposed to be here August 14th.
My only question (at least until I get started) is if you know of any changes to the '08 that would throw off the measurements and angles you gave us? Also, is your experience that the tolerances off the assembly are close enough that your measurements should work for all installs or is each Jeep different? If not, any suggestions on what to look for to make sure my vehicle is properly adjusted?
Thanks again!
Red7 August 5th, 2007 11:15 pm
Also, I just went through all of the parts to make sure everything is there and I'm thrown off by something. Both the FT instructions and your write up mention 12 lower control arm bushings but I only have 8. Are they counting the 4 track bar bushings as well? I'm assuming they are. I'm going to go ahead and put everything together tonight to see what I'm missing and to have everything ready to throw on when my jeep arrives.
BTW-this kit is so beefy and I'm extremely impressed with the finish on all of the parts. I'm so glad I settled on this kit!!!
Red7 August 6th, 2007 12:53 am
Sorry to keep posting-and hopefully this will help rather than confuse people-but I figured out why I was confused on the number of control arm bushings in my kit. The photo that came with my kit and the photo you show of all of the parts in the FT Ultimate kit show the REAR LOWER CONTROL ARM with the rubber bushings and this lines up with the photos you show during your installation. However, the 2 lower rear control arms in my kit come with a metal (pre-assembled) fitting which looks very similar to the non-rubber bushing side of the REAR UPPER CONTROL ARM as seen in the photo next to step 64 or your write up. FT still sent me 6 control arm sleeves for the "12 bushings" they show in the photo but I have 2 left over since my kit only came with 8 bushings.
I don't know if my kit is a newer version or if yours is but I just wanted to share this info in case anyone else gets their kit and thinks that FT didn't send enough rubber bushings. I have assembled all of the pieces but obviously haven't installed anything on my Jeep so it's possible that I'm mistaken but it appears that FT did make a change to the REAR LOWER CONTROL ARM. If this is more confusing than helpful feel free to delete this (or any of mine) post.
BTW-your instructions are SOOOOOOO much better than the FT ones and they would be smart to print yours out and provide that to their customers (for a small fee of course)!
wayoflife August 6th, 2007 10:59 am
Hey js,
Some people, like myself, will be using this lift with 33″ tires. What do you suggest as a starting point for caster angle?
In my opinion, the factory +4.2° caster setting is a bit shallow and it caused my JK to wander on the highway right off the lot. Needless to say, I would recommend that you set your caster to at least +5°~6° for 33's. If you set your front lower control arm lenghts a bit shorter than what had but leave the uppers the same, you should be able to get what you want.
Will the bump stop extensions limit the flex prematurely for 33″ tires? Are there thinner bump stop extensions available for 'smaller' diameter tires?
Trust me, no, they won't and you really don't want a shorter one. In addition to preventing rubbing at a full flex, bumpstop extensions exist to help prevent the over compression of your coils - something you want.
wayoflife August 6th, 2007 11:11 am
Hey Red7,
My only question (at least until I get started) is if you know of any changes to the '08 that would throw off the measurements and angles you gave us?
No, there are none that I know of and can't imagine that there would be any.
Also, is your experience that the tolerances off the assembly are close enough that your measurements should work for all installs or is each Jeep different? If not, any suggestions on what to look for to make sure my vehicle is properly adjusted?
Well, in my experience working on Jeeps of all types, no two are exactly alike for sure but for your purposes, I think the tolerances are close enough that my measurements should work just fine. As far as what to look for if they aren't goes, your rear track bar rubbing on the passenger side rear coil would mean your rear axle is pushed too far. Up front, if your caster setting isn't where you'd like to have it, that would be a clear sign that something was off there as well.
wayoflife August 6th, 2007 11:17 am
Hey Red7 again
Both the FT instructions and your write up mention 12 lower control arm bushings but I only have 8. Are they counting the 4 track bar bushings as well? I'm assuming they are.
Yes, 8 are for the lower control arm frame mounts and the other 4 smaller ones should be for the front and rear track bar frame mounts.
BTW-this kit is so beefy and I'm extremely impressed with the finish on all of the parts. I'm so glad I settled on this kit!!!
LOL!!! I have owned and installed many lifts from many different manufacturers and can tell you that in my opinion, the design, finish, quality of construction and extremely impressive welds of Full Traction kits are by far some of the best around if not the best.
wayoflife August 6th, 2007 11:24 am
And yet again, hey Red7
Sorry to keep posting-and hopefully this will help rather than confuse people-but I figured out why I was confused on the number of control arm bushings in my kit.
LOL!! No need to apologize and yes, questions like yours always help out everyone in the end
The photo that came with my kit and the photo you show of all of the parts in the FT Ultimate kit show the REAR LOWER CONTROL ARM with the rubber bushings and this lines up with the photos you show during your installation. However, the 2 lower rear control arms in my kit come with a metal (pre-assembled) fitting which looks very similar to the non-rubber bushing side of the REAR UPPER CONTROL ARM as seen in the photo next to step 64 or your write up.
Well, to be quite honest, I got my photo from Full Traction's website and looking at it again now, I can tell you that a few of the parts shown in it are incorrect including what the front swaybar disconnect links look like. I will try to get an updated photo and replace it as soon as I can.
FT still sent me 6 control arm sleeves for the "12 bushings" they show in the photo but I have 2 left over since my kit only came with 8 bushings.
Hmmm, all I can say is that it just must have been an oversight on their behalf or just extra parts tossed in the kit by mistake.
I don't know if my kit is a newer version or if yours is but I just wanted to share this info in case anyone else gets their kit and thinks that FT didn't send enough rubber bushings. I have assembled all of the pieces but obviously haven't installed anything on my Jeep so it's possible that I'm mistaken but it appears that FT did make a change to the REAR LOWER CONTROL ARM. If this is more confusing than helpful feel free to delete this (or any of mine) post.
As mentioned above, the photo and parts list were right off of Full Traction's website but if you follow my instructions, I think you will see that you have everything you need.
BTW-your instructions are SOOOOOOO much better than the FT ones and they would be smart to print yours out and provide that to their customers (for a small fee of course)!
Thanks, I really do appreciate the compliment
John August 6th, 2007 3:29 pm
Great write up. How much lift did you gain total with your 35 tires? What kind of ground clearances?
wayoflife August 6th, 2007 3:42 pm
Hey John, I had gained about 3″ exactly but that's with my big heavy PUREJEEP front bumper with WARN PowerPlant winch, PUREJEEP rear bumper tire carrier. Without them, I'm sure I would be sitting about 1/2″ taller. If you want, I can take an exact measurement but you'll have to let me know where you want me to take it so that we'd be comparing apples to apples.
John August 7th, 2007 4:47 pm
Thanks for your response! Couple more questions, would a base 'X' have more gain than and unlimited Rubi? How long have you been running this lift, were you running it during your Slick Rock and Deer Valley run? Which are amazing photos by the way! One more question and Ill leave you alone…where can I get that bad ass Full Traction Decal for my windshield? You have mean lookin' Jeep!
wayoflife August 7th, 2007 6:55 pm
LOL!! You don't have to leave me alone and it really is my pleasure to help out in anyway that I can. Regarding your questions, what I can tell you is that a base X phyiscally sits about 1/2″ shorter than a Rubicon so the amount of lift you will see would be slightly more, technically, but ultimately the same side to side. As far as how long I have been running this lift goes, since just before Moab Easter Jeep Safari. Need I say, all the pics in the photo gallery from about April on are with this lift, Slick Rock and Deer Valley included. Last but not least, if you get this kit, let me know and I will try to have someone over at Full Traction send you one.
John August 8th, 2007 9:22 am
That would be awesome! Thanks for the response!
Michigan Mike August 9th, 2007 8:42 am
I'm going to install this kit over the weekend on my JK 2 door and have 2 quick questions before I start. I'm going to get 35's sometime next week (probably Mickey Thompson MYZ's). With the stock 32's do I need to change the transfer case/pinion angle now or wait until the new skins are installed and, again regarding the 35's, should I change the caster angle now or wait for the new tires? Terrific write up (and in my case extremely timely)!!
wayoflife August 9th, 2007 11:23 am
Hey Michigan Mike, I would do everything now in preparation for your new tires. The caster setting won't be a problem for your 32's and the pinion angle is more of an issue with lift height and not tire size. And, just so it's clear, the rotation of it will only help releave stress at the pinion and not at the t-case. I only recommend this step because it can be done with this type of drive shaft and a little help is better than none. Please let mek know if you have any other questions.
CarFanatic August 9th, 2007 2:45 pm
I will be installing this kit on my 2 door x when it arrives. When you adjust the rear drive shaft angle, this in turn will effect your rear caster angle correct?
CarFanatic August 9th, 2007 2:47 pm
One more question. The bolt you have to cut to remove, Wont when you go to reinstall it, wont the exhaust still be in the way? Cant you just move the exhaust over enought to pull the bolt out?
wayoflife August 9th, 2007 3:13 pm
Hi CarFanatic, caster is typically a term used when refering to the angle of your front axle as it can and will effect tracking, steering and overall handling. Your rear axle and its pinion angle will not influence these things.
Regarding the bolt you have to cut, if you read step #22, the new bolt is reveresed and installed through the outside of your frame rail.
Red7 August 10th, 2007 3:35 am
Hi Eddie, couple a more quick questions:
I'm not that familiar with hardware so is that "grade 8″ replacement bolt something we can pick up at Home Depot or Ace Hardware or do we have to go to a special hardware shop?
Also, I got 35×12.50 tires and the 16″ wheels I got have 4.5 BS. Will I likely have no issues with rubbing or am I going to have to adjust something with that back spacing?
wayoflife August 10th, 2007 3:42 am
Hey Red7, yes, a grade 8 bolt is the essentially the U.S. equivalent of a metric 10.9 bolt (which is what is on your Jeep now) and can be purchased in the specialty hardware section of your local Lowes, ACE or Truevalue Hardware (section with all the drawers). I rarely find a good selection of grade 8 bolts at Home Depot.
Regarding your wheels, 6.25″ of back spacing is what comes on your factory wheels and so you should be just fine with 4.5″. I am running 4.75″ now without any problems.
Michigan Mike August 10th, 2007 9:04 am
Am I correct that there aren't any issues with exchanging the bar-pin end with the sleeve end of the rear shocks (ie boot up) just for the "vanity factor" of having the Full Traction decal more visible? BTW I'm pretty sure that Mickey Thompson doesn't make MYZ tires. Should have been MTZ's.
Michigan Mike August 10th, 2007 9:08 am
Should have mentioned the shocks are the M-Force nitro's.
Michigan Mike August 10th, 2007 9:14 am
And 1 final comment before I get started. In the step 6 photo how did you manage to lift your rig from the front diff. case and only get the driver side tire off the ground. I'm gonna go and give that a try!
wayoflife August 10th, 2007 11:06 am
Hey Mike,
Am I correct that there aren't any issues with exchanging the bar-pin end with the sleeve end of the rear shocks (ie boot up) just for the "vanity factor" of having the Full Traction decal more visible?
No, you are incorrect in assuming as much. The M-Force shocks are specifically designed to be run with the can side up and need to be for the valving to function properly.
And 1 final comment before I get started. In the step 6 photo how did you manage to lift your rig from the front diff. case and only get the driver side tire off the ground. I'm gonna go and give that a try!
Ummm, laws of physics? Seriously, with the diff as far over to the driver side as it is, unless you go way up high, the passenger side tire ain't going nowhere.
Michigan Mike August 11th, 2007 8:45 am
Well I'm sure glad I asked about the rear shocks before actually doing them. I DID try the front diff. lift…you-da-man (I was never very good at physics)!
Michigan Mike August 11th, 2007 3:56 pm
Another question. With the 1 1/4″ longer lower control arms do I have to remove both sides lower & upper control arms to get the front axle to move foreward that amount? Man the frame mount bolt for the lowers was incredibly tight. My impact wouldn't move it and I had to go to a 1/2″ breaker bar with a 20″ piece of pipe hanging off the end. Got it though! I figured this would be a good time to ask the question since my garage temp hit 100 degrees and I quit for the day.
Paul'nVA August 11th, 2007 5:48 pm
I am seriously considering this lift over all others I have seen to this date. I have a 2007 2 door Rubicon 6 speed. I am planning on running 33's on the stock wheels w/spacers once the 32's wear out. My first question is, am I going to need to replace or modify my rear or front drive shafts?
( double cardan joint at the X-case end ) or, will I be good to go with the stock Rubicon shafts? I don't want to void the new life time warranty on the shafts or x-case.
IF this 3 inch lift will need shaft modifications then I am looking at a 2 - 2.5 inch spring (NOT spacer) lift. Most 2 - 2.5 inch lifts only come with brackets for the front or rear track bars, but not both. Some 2 - 2.5 inch lifts come with front or rear bumpstop extensions, but not both….then there is are sway bar links, possible lower control arm cam bolts and brake line extensions. My second questions are; What components need relocation or adjustment at 2 - 2.5 inches of lift?… What will I need to purchase seperately if I go with Rusty's 2 inch lift that is just 4 springs and 4 shocks? Who has the most complete 2 -2.5 inch out there if I decide to go with a Kit? Whew, I hope this is understandable! Thanks, Paul'nVA
wayoflife August 13th, 2007 11:30 pm
Hey Michigan Mike, no, you do not need to remove both uppers and lowers in order to move your axle foward - just the lowers. With them off, you should be able to man-handle it forward. With the uppers off, you should be able to rotate the axle up or down to give you the caster you need.
Hey Paul'nVA, technically, you will not need a new drive shaft with this lift but a rear double cardin style would be adviseable on a 2-door as it is quite short and the angle that'll be put on it with 3″ of lift will be extreme and may cause the premature wearing of the CV boots. And, truth be told, I think this may be the case on a 2-door with any lift 2″ or more. Now, regarding 2″ lifts in general, you really don't need anything more than a set of coil spacers, rear brake line drop brackets, new shocks or shock extensions. Granted, your front and rear axles will shift to one side just a bit if you do not install a track bar relocation bracket in the rear and new adjustable track bar up front but that's about it. As far as who has the most complete 2″-2.5″ kit goes, I would recommend Full Traction or Rubicon Express for the 2″ and TeraFlex for the 2.5″.
Travis August 15th, 2007 1:27 pm
Hey, I just wanted to thank u for the excellent instructions. FT needs an overhaul on them. Thanks 2 u I now have a JK X with the ultimate lift and 35's with painted xenon flat fenders and it looks great! Just need the axle upgrades!
Adam Warren August 19th, 2007 3:03 pm
These instructions are unbelievably great! I can't wait to install on my new 07 rubicon. I do have a question, though: What about a new pitman arm? With a 3 inch lift how does your stock pitman arm sit?
wayoflife August 20th, 2007 2:34 am
Thank you Travis and Adam, I really do appreciate the feedback. Regarding Adam's question, no new dropped pitman arm is needed with this lift and everything works great.
Michigan Mike August 20th, 2007 1:46 pm
WOL; Well I finished the install this past Saturday and here are my comments regarding the kit. My vectron bushings for the track bars were too thick by about .125″ and I had to sand them down, as evenly as possible from both sides, with my belt sander to fit them into the frame mounts (I couldn't think of another way to do it). To get them installed in the bars I turned a can of dust off spray upside down and cooled them quite a bit. A few taps with a rubber mallet and they dropped right in. The M-Force shocks didn't come with steel sleeves (SLE-104) and the OEM ones won't fit, to replace the bar-pins pre-installed but Patrick at Full Traction overnighted (although it took 4 days) 2 of them to me. I did realize the front sway discos, that I didn't use on my Rubi, used the same sleeves so it didn't hang me up time wise. Xer's or Sahara's will need them however. Your adjustment on the rear track bar was right on. My front was off by about .250″ (no big deal to change). At least on my rig the 1/2″x3″ "new" bolt for the curb side front upper really needed to be a 12mm (the 1/2″ wouldn't fit thru the hole in the frame). Both rear uppers are very close to the tires, maybe 1/2″, but I have spacers when I go to 35's. 1 final question. Will my stock Rubi 17's accomodate either Toyo open country M/T 35's or Mickey Thompson 315/70 MTZ's? When I took the wheels off the casting in the rear says 17×7.5. Both of these tires need 8.5″ minimum but I thought the OEM wheels were 8.5's (I couldn't find that spec anywhere however). An absolutely great write up which, if you go to Full Traction's web site, they have a link to. You probably saved me 10-12 hours of frustration if I only had the F/T directions. Thanks man! See ya'll on the trail!
wayoflife August 20th, 2007 4:42 pm
Hey Michigan Mike, I'm glad to hear you got your lift on and that my write-up was of help to you. Regarding your tires, yes, they will fit your factory wheels so long as you have wheel spacers. The fit will be tight but that can be a good think especially when aired down for the trail.
Red7 August 21st, 2007 12:51 am
I picked up my '08 Sahara on Friday at 9PM, started installing the lift at 11PM and battled through the night until the sun came up at 6AM at which time I made a run to Starbucks for a little pick me up followed by a stop by Lowes to pick up a few things I needed. I went to bed for a bit and then got up and worked until 3Am Sunday morning at which time I was pretty much finished. This was my first lift install and it took me a long time but many of things I battled I could do over in half the time. Anyone who is nervous about doing this on their own I encourage you to go for it as long as you have the time. I'm in pain, my hands are a little beat up, I threw a couple of things and dropped about 500 F-bombs but in the end I actually enjoyed it, learned a ton about my Jeep and feel fulfilled that I did the work myself. Now to the comments and questions:
I ran into some similar issues as Michigan Mike. I didn't have any issues with my track bars but several of the control arm ends were a really tight fit into the stock brackets so I had to beat the hell out of them to get them in which was probably not the best thing for them but I tried prying the brackets open more but only pounding on them got them in. I went through 3 sawzall blades cutting that really tough bolt and as MM said the 1/2″ bolt was a really, really tight fit. I couldn't bang it through but I was able to thread it through but it a long time and I actually needed a breaker bar at times to turn it through the sleeve and get it out the other end. Will that be an issue if the bolt is in there so tight that it will bind inside the sleeve when the control arm moves up or down?My rear track bar was off by 1/4″ so the axle is shifted over to the passenger side but I'm going to adjust that tonight. I think my M-force came with the metal sleeves but now MM has me doubting so I better check.
The M-force shocks seem really stiff compared to stock. Leaving the dealer I thought, man this thing rides so nice on the street but I've been disappointed with the M-force (at least initially) as the Jeep now rides like the one I had in college 10 years ago. Will these soften up some? It's not stiff like a sports car suspension (obviously, it's a Jeep after all) that stays glued to the road, the problem I have with it is the compression is too stiff and the rebound is too fast so every bump I hit in the road it feels like the wheel is chattering/bouncing rather than sucking up the bump while staying planted. It reminds me of how I have my Supercross suspension setup for sucking up 90′ triples but skips/bounces around over the small bumps/washboard where as my Motocross bike would bottom out over the big jumps since it's softer but it sucks up all of those little chatter bumps like they aren't even there. This is getting long so I'll shut up about the shocks but please tell me these are going to soften up or these will be going on ebay as soon as some other options come on the market.
My caster angle ended up being 9 degrees on the passenger side and 8 on the driver side. Is that ok or do I need to adjust it to 7?
Also, my control arms had 3 zerk fitting on each side in the back and then just 1 on each side in the front for a total of 8. Do I need to do anything to the other joints on the control arms or track bars? Is there a way of smearing in some white lithium grease or is that not necessary?
All in all I'm very happy with the quality of this kit and I know I'd still be working on it if I didn't have this great write up and photos on my laptop underneath the Jeep with me. I really appreciate it Eddie! I got a little more than 4″ out of the lift right now but I'm sure it will settle a little especially if I get new bumpers but I'm glad for the additional lift as I wanted a 4″ any way.
wayoflife August 21st, 2007 1:44 am
Hey Red7, I'm glad to hear my write-up was able to help you out.
Regarding your questions about the M-Force shocks, for sure they will be stiffer than the Sahara or X shocks as they are a monotube nitro shock but not so much to the point where they should cause chatter. Just to make sure, you did install them can side up right? Because their valving is specifically designed to work this way and inverting them would cause them to not function properly.
As far as your bushings go, using a bench vice might of helped getting them in easier and maybe I should have included that in my write-up. As far as your track bars go, so long as you got the frame mount bushings lubed up good with white lithium grease, they should be good to go for a long time. I have about 9,000 miles on mine and they are still quiet. If you drive through a lot of water, you may need to take them apart from time to time and apply more grease but I still think you could go for a long time without it. Also, you should be good to go with +8° ~ +9° of caster, should drive nice and straight.
Red7 August 21st, 2007 4:13 am
Thanks for the response Eddie! I must have used the wrong terminology because I didn't have any problems getting the bushings or collars in. What I did have an issue with is getting a few of the control arms to go into the bracket on the axle. It was like the bracket was pinched a little so the rod ends with their misalignment spacers were just a hair to wide so I really had to pound on them to get them in the bracket and then getting them to move forward or back was tough since they were so tight. I don't think this was an issue of poor fabrication on Full Traction's part as much as Jeep just having made these a tight fit.
I did install the M-force cans up. I'm trying to rack up some miles to break in the engine before our trip back to Mexico so I just took it out for a 50 mile drive and what I'm noticing is it rides smoother over bumps at highway speeds so it's really the around town slower bumps that are a little annoying such as going over a man hole cover or a small pot hole at 20 mph. I guess my Supercross example holds true because I remember the first time I had my suspension setup for SX racing and I thought it was so stiff but the faster and more aggressively I rode the smoother it was. Sounds like the nitro shocks are the same so I'm just going to have to speed more around town.
I noticed that my Jeep has a very slight pull to the right and I didn't really drive it enough stock to realize if it did this before the lift. Is there an adjustment I can make? Should I take it in and have an alignment done or just leave it since it's subtle?
Also, just to clarify, was I supposed to do anything to lube the rod ends of the control arms and track bars or the upper front control arms assembly joint?
Thanks again!
wayoflife August 21st, 2007 10:32 am
Ah-ha! Yes, in some cases, getting new control arms of any make can be difficult to get into the factory mounts. What I would have recommended is to take a pry bar and spread the mount apart just a bit as it would have made your job a lot easier.
Regarding your slight pull to the right, there are a few things to check/consider. First, streets are typically made with a "crown" in them for drainage purposes and a slight pull is normal in that direction. However, if you have tested your Jeep on absolute level ground and it still has it, check your tire pressure to make sure they are even. Also, am I reading correctly that you have more caster on your passenger side and you're absolutely sure of it? They should be virtually the same and that might be causing your pull.
As far as lubing the rod ends go, it is not necessary as they are not designed for lubrication.
Red7 August 21st, 2007 9:39 pm
Thanks Eddie! I just got back from a 200 mile drive up in the mountains to get out of the Phoenix heat and put a few miles on the new vehicle. It is still pulling but as I said it is very slight and yes the crown on some roads made it more noticeable and on flat ground it will hold a line for a little bit before always defaulting to the right. It's not much so I'm not worried but will check the tire pressure and recheck the caster not that I have some miles on it.
I noticed something new today and I'm all but sure I haven't experienced it before. There is a vibration that I just noticed today and it caught me off guard because I took the Jeep out for a 50 mile drive on the highway last night and I swear it wasn't there. Today while driving out of town I almost immediately noticed this vibration and it is most pronounced around 55 mph and fades away a little once above 60 or below 45 but it is still there. I was scared I had forgot to tighten the lug nuts after putting the wheels back on so I check them and they were fine. I looked at the drive shafts and am not sure what to look for but nothing seemed strange. It was 110 today so I didn't crawl under the car as just touching the ground with my knee to look under burned but I can check it out in the garage tonight if you let me know what to look for. Maybe it's something in the motor but it didn't change at all throughout the 200+ trip today. BTW-I filled her up for the first time and got 390 out of the first tank. I wanted to break 400 but I was on fumes and had my 3 year old in the car and it was 110 out. Calculating the little bit I still had in the tank would have gotten me over 400 mpg and 100% of that driving was with the AC on. Of course I've been babying it since I'm breaking it in.
wayoflife August 21st, 2007 9:44 pm
Hey Red7, a speed related vibration as you have described is almost always a tire balancing issue especially when throwing a weight isn't such a hard thing to do under any circumstances.
Red7 August 24th, 2007 1:59 am
I finished up my install last night by putting my 35's on and they fit great with the 4.5″ BS. Plenty of room all around and it looks incredible. The vibration is there and seems to be even more pronounced to where the stearing wheel wiggles back and forth really quickly about a 1/4″ but I'm wondering if that doesn't have to do with the more aggressive tread on my Procomp Xterrains. The more I drove it today the less I noticed it so it could be the tires or maybe rebalancing them will help. I love these tires by the way as they are quiet and didn't effect my mpg much. My Jeep seems to be doing pretty good even with 3.73 gearing. The Jeep also holds a line better with the larger tires so it's really not pulling to the right any more. The M-Force shocks are still a little stiff for my taste especially at slower speeds on rough roads. After driving a few miles down a road with lots of cracks in the asphalt my wife nervously asked if Jeeps were supposed to be that rough as we were really getting jossled around. I'm going to head to Sedona this weekend to go offroading for the first time so we'll see if they make up for it on the trails.
javier August 24th, 2007 2:40 am
Hi!! I installed this week a 3″ fulltraction lift system on my rubi 2dr, works great.
I have 33×12.50 tires but the only problem is the shummy steering drive feeling.
how can I fix it?
best regards….
wayoflife August 24th, 2007 11:26 am
Hey Red7,
The vibration is there and seems to be even more pronounced to where the stearing wheel wiggles back and forth really quickly about a 1/4″ but I'm wondering if that doesn't have to do with the more aggressive tread on my Procomp Xterrains.
What you are describing definitely sounds like your tires aren't balanced properly. Even if these are new tires, this would not be uncommon as balancing large M/T's is difficult to do and can take more than one try to get right.
As far as your ride being rough goes, I honestly don't know what to tell you especially when I fell my ride is better than what I had with the factory Rubicon shocks which I felt were on the stiff side. I can tell you though that the factory Sahara and X shocks are a lot softer and so perhaps by comparison, the M-Force seem stiff for you.
wayoflife August 24th, 2007 11:27 am
Hi javier,
I have 33×12.50 tires but the only problem is the shummy steering drive feeling.
I'm sorry but I'm not sure I understand what you are asking. Could you explain yourself a bit more here?
Ken Jong Il August 29th, 2007 10:36 pm
Hey Eddie! What kind of articulation benefits would I get from this kit if I ran 33's instead of 35's? As sexy as a 4″ long arm would be, I'm not a big fan of how monsterous JK's look with a 4″ suspension, so this Full Traction lift seems pretty choice and comes highly recommended. Would this be able to tackle pretty much anything I throw at it if I ran 33's instead of 35's?
wayoflife August 30th, 2007 2:11 am
Hey Ken, I don't know if you would get any articulation benefits from running 33's but they do work quite well and yes, they will be able to do most anything that 35's can do. Click on this link to see shots of a 4-door Rubicon that has this lift and 33's - it's the white one with the doors on:
Ken Jong Il August 31st, 2007 11:17 pm
What kind of hang-ups did you run into with this lift while on the trails?
wayoflife September 5th, 2007 10:27 am
Hang-ups? Honestly, I have been doing runs no less than 2 times a month since installing it and have punished it on some of the hardest terrain I could test it on and I have had no hang-ups to speak of.
carfanatic September 16th, 2007 10:48 pm
Those adjustments you made to the arms,and mesurments you listed to set them too, will that fix the pinion angle?? Or will you have to re adjust to get the angles right?
wayoflife September 17th, 2007 10:39 am
The measurements I listed for up front will only address your caster angle and they were only what worked for me. Your Jeep may be different +/- a bit. In the rear, the measurements listed are just approximate points to start at to have your pinion rotated up on a 4-door. Again, your Jeep may be different and if you have a 2-door, it will be different for sure.
CarFanatic September 20th, 2007 10:18 am
Ya mine is a two door… Guess I'll get it close then hope for the alignement to fix the rest.
wayoflife September 20th, 2007 10:27 am
Just so you know, your toe-in will not have changed due to the new steering design that the JK has and if you re-center your steering wheel yourself, the only thing you will be paying to have done at an alignment shop is getting your caster set. Need I say, save your money and do this yourself.
carfanatic September 22nd, 2007 12:56 am
ok, when adjust the pinion and caster.. I only adjust the upper control arms??? I dont need to adjust the lower arms?? I have a 2 door, so Should I leave the lower arms at the measurements you suggested? What should I be looking for to know if I need to adjust the lower control arm length?
wayoflife September 22nd, 2007 12:11 pm
Yes, your adjustable lower control arms are designed to let you reposition your axle under your Jeep and the uppers are designed to change the angle they sit at. In the rear, if your track bar is making contact with your coils, it has been pushed back too far and you will need to adjust your lower control arms to be shorter. If in the front, you coils are making contact with the bump stop towers, your front axle most likely needs to be pushed forward and your lower control arms will allow you to do that. However, I should point out that if you have too much caster, your front coils may curve a bit and this could cause them to contact your bump stop towers as well so be mindful of that.
carfanatic September 23rd, 2007 8:49 pm
ok thanks. I assume the 2 and 4 door front set ups are the same? So the measurments that you mentioned should work fine right? The rear I'm guessing the there a bit different, then again the could be the same, that would make sense from an engineering stand point. So Will the rear mesurments you stated to start out with work for a 2 door? I'm doing this install next weekend. I guess I'm wanting to get set lengths to start at. I dont want to not drive properly.
wayoflife September 24th, 2007 1:38 pm
Yes, the measurements should be relatively the same. Granted, every Jeep seems to be a bit different and you should check your Jeep after the installation of your kit.
rampage October 13th, 2007 12:59 am
You did great job to do the document with along instruction. I wonder if you can provide me the PDF since of this since it use up a lot of papers. WHen I print this one and it will come out many pages with along comments.
wayoflife October 17th, 2007 7:56 pm
Hi Mark, I really do apologize but I do not have this write-up available as a PDF at this time. Sorry.
chad October 31st, 2007 2:10 pm
are there any drive line mods you have to do when installing the 3″ lift I want to run 35s but dont want the headaches of changing the drive line
wayoflife November 5th, 2007 5:18 pm
Hi Chad, I apologize for not responding to you sooner. I had been in Las Vegas attending the SEMA show all last week and just got back in late last night. Regarding your question, if you have a 2-door, you will want to change out your rear drive line to a double cardin u-joint style shaft. And, if you have an automatic, you might want to consider replacing that as well on 2-door or unlimited models as well as the factory shaft will come into contact with the auto skid plate. Your other option would be to remove the auto skit.
TanktheTwat December 13th, 2007 11:16 pm
Way Of Life,
Is there anyway that i can contact you personally to discuss somehtings with you. I'm only 15 but just received a 2008 Wrangler JK Unlimited X and i'm oblivious to most things concerning off-roading and technical terminology. If you could just please inform me on the basics about the sport, and then I will teach myself from there.
Thanks for listening,
wayoflife December 14th, 2007 11:35 am
Just sent you an email.
alaskabound February 26th, 2008 1:06 am
i have a 4 dr rubicon on order 08…looking to install the ft 3″ lift when it gets here. i recently have read of problems with the esp on lifted 07 models….do you know if this has been addressed?
wayoflife February 26th, 2008 12:06 pm
So long as you have your steering wheel centered, you shouldn't have any ESP problems and any that you might have will eventually go away as your ESP learns what's going on. But, you can also have your ESP turned off.
cliff April 10th, 2008 7:49 pm
I just finished installing a FT Premium 3″ lift kit and used your great instructions as a guide. Only issue, I had to disable my ESP. Is that normal?
wayoflife April 11th, 2008 1:03 am
While your ESP going off after a lift is somewhat common, most of the time, it is caused by a steering wheel being of center or running too much air in your tires. either way, the ESP system is progressive and will learn. In otherwords, it will eventually figure things out and not trigger all the time.
SuperDave April 11th, 2008 2:44 pm
Eddie-do you know how tall your JK is with the lift and bigger tires? Can you still park it in the garage?
RCubed April 15th, 2008 2:35 pm
I just completed this install. THANK you so much for the great instructions. Some quick comments while I have them fresh in my head.
On my 2008 Sahara Unlimited there were not any wires attached to the front upper control arm.
For the rear install at step 62 you say to go to step 66 if you have a 4 door. That should be go to step 65. It was a bugger getting those rear upper control arms on after I had put just about everything else on.
Thats it for now. I have some other notes I can pass along if you are interested. I am a technology guy that is sort of mechanically inclined but I have never done anything like this to any vehicle I have owned in the past 23 years. Before this I couldn't have pointed out a control arm from a sway bar link from a track bar without it being a total guess. As such I have some mental notes on things I "guessed" at during the installation process that may help those with this particular install and similar ones in the future.
Thanks again for this write up.
wayoflife April 16th, 2008 2:46 pm
Yeah, I suppose the wires are only for a Rubicon or a JK fitted with a locker. Thanks for pointing that out.
wayoflife April 16th, 2008 4:02 pm
Hi SuperDave, my JK sits at about 6′-11″ at its highest point with the soft top on and at this highest point, it just rubs the base of my garage door.
Rick April 18th, 2008 11:20 pm
HELP!!I have a 2008 JK Rubicon Unlimited and had the Full Traction Ultimate 3 inch suspension system installed along with the shocks. I have driven it approx 1000 miles and it has developed a clanking noise. I have had everything re torqued and it seems to come right back?? The shop that installed it has been doing suspension lifts for over 10 years, this was the first Full Traction. I'm going back to their shop to discuss the problem in the morning…any suggestions?? The loud clanking/snapping noise seems to come if I back up then go forward there is a LOUD CLANK also if I go over a speed bump in a parking lot slowly when the front wheels go up over the bump there is no clank only when the wheels go back down to the pavement.I'm very frustrated and ready to sell the JK if I cant fix it!
wayoflife April 20th, 2008 12:40 pm
A loud 'clank' is typically caused by something like a coil catching on something and letting go. Have you checked to see if your passenger side rear coils isn't making contact with the track bar bolt? Or, have you checked to see if maybe your passenger side front coil is catching on the bumpstop tower?
Mr. Girou May 20th, 2008 1:43 pm
I bought a Rubicon RE7200 Series TJ Extreme Duty Long Arm System and I am having touble with it. Can anyone help me on this? I installed it but getting alot of Vibration. Don't know what to do. Called the company and they tell me to just adjust it.
If you can help I would be very happy. I am in the millitary station in Bahrain.
Thank you
Mr. Dragon
wayoflife May 21st, 2008 9:23 am
are you sure that your vibes aren't being caused by your tires being out of balance? also, if you installed a new aftermarket front drive shaft, have you tried reducing the amount of caster you have?
mal May 28th, 2008 5:36 am
hi there Eddie,
I installed the 3″ Ultimate kit all good except for the Front track bar. it dosnt line up Angularly to the Axel and Frame mounts, i had to push quite a bit of presure on the arm to get it to slot in, so its now fitted under tension. i feel this is due to the bushing used, it doesnt allow for any miss Alignment (oddly enough the original factory Track Bar fits better although shorter) I can shorten the lower control arms to bring the axel back and make it line better but it's still not right, I feel the bushing will wear prematurely, ANY IDEAS?
Also I read that you advised 'Chad' that he needed to change he's rear drive line because he has a Shorty with 35" tires, I have the same but I haven't heard that you need to change any drivelines before? I have no issues with my rig, should I? What are the problems that occur with Std Drivelines?
Be great to hear from you,
wayoflife May 28th, 2008 10:36 am
mal, how much longer did you make your lower control arms and how much shorter did you make your uppers? also, after changing the position and caster of your axle, getting your track bar into the axle mount will require some effort but you should not have any issues with the bushing wearing out prematurely. at least, i haven't had any issues and i have well over 30,000 miles on mine.
regarding your rear drive shaft, it being as short as it is will cause your CV boots to be in a constant state of pinch. over time, this will cause them to wear out prematurely and tear. once compromises, water and dirt can get in and ruin your joints. this will not happen immediately but it will happen - i have seen it on numerous JK's already.
mal May 28th, 2008 9:55 pm
ok the Front upper control Arms are to your spec i.e. A 5/8″ Gap giving 1/8″ Longer than Stock. The lowers you said to make the Gap 1 1/4″ but i made it 1″ as a starting point so it can still go shorter as it should now be at 1/2″ longer than stock and you ended up with only 3/8″.
Castor angle is L/H 7 1/2 Deg & R/H 5 1/2 Deg. I also have issue with the drivers side Coil spring curving fwd and rubbing on the Sway bar arm! the gap between the pasenger side coil to swaybar is larger its not rubbing but appears to be curving rearwards?
with regard to the CV's I'd have to change both at the Transfer case wouldnt i? as the angle of the front drive line is at a sharper angle.
p.s. one more thing while ive got ya;)- having Dana44 Rear & Dana30 in the front (i have the Manual, Auto's have 35s') will that Diff be able to take the 35″ Tires ok? i have 4.56 ratios with detroit 3/4 locker front, Full Locker Rear. have you known anyone to have issues with them? should i look at upgrading to a 44?
wayoflife May 29th, 2008 2:44 pm
hi mal, i had made changes to this write-up about a week ago and have included new pics and specific measurements regarding the control arms. you might want to double check your measurements of them by doing an eye to eye measurement just in case. also, have you check to make sure that you have your axle centered? regarding driveshafts, you'll have to replace the entire shafts. as far as your axles go, yes, they will be able to run 35's just fine and know plenty of people who have that setup now.
David June 9th, 2008 11:28 am
Apparently I have the same problem as Rick. I install the FT 3" lift on my 2008 JK 4-door and the front coils have a curve in them. The passenger side coil is curved towards the back and is rubbing on the bump stop tower. The driver side coil is curved towards the front and is very close to the sway bar. The bottom of the coil is seated correctly in the slot of the seat therefore I don't think I should turn the coil. I had my local alignment shop take a look at it and they tried switching the front coils but the effect was the same. Is there a seating pad at the top of the coil that may require rotating or could there be a problem with the springs? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
wayoflife June 10th, 2008 9:42 am
who did you buy your lift from? could be that you got a set of coils that were cut wrong. i would contact your sales rep to let them know of your problem and see if they can help you out.
-MAW- July 1st, 2008 7:20 pm
wayoflife July 2nd, 2008 3:12 am
i did a bit at a full stuff and turning but only after installing a heavy front bumper and powerplant. i installed a 1″ body lift and the problem went away.
-maw- July 2nd, 2008 8:07 am
ok then , so fender flare triming is needed then or do the b/l
leros July 14th, 2008 3:39 pm
Hi Way of Life,
Do the sway bar discos on this lift have a pin set up to store them out of the way(like the teraflex disco)or do they need to be bungeed?
wayoflife July 15th, 2008 2:45 am
the links come completely off but the sway bar arm will need to be bungied or strapped up somehow. personally, i would recommend picking up a set of teraflex discos.
enrapture6 February 4th, 2009 11:13 pm
I am looking to lift my 2 door automatic x model. I have couple of questions to start with. #1. I have read in the above comments that since I have a 2 door automatic, I will need to replace my driveshafts? If so, could you suggest a front and rear drive shaft (manufacture)? Also suggest where I could obtain them (online retailer)? #2 In regards to the post install and the affects on the speedo, could I get a dealer to re-program the speedo instead of obtaining the aftermarket program-er myself? Let me know. Thanks.
wayoflife February 5th, 2009 10:28 am
1. you really can't go wrong with a coast or je reel shaft and you can get either from http://www.northridge4×4.com.
2. if you go taller than a 32″ tire, no, your dealer will not be able to help you out and you will need to get a programmer like hypertech makes in order to recalibrate it.
enrapture6 February 5th, 2009 10:16 pm
Thanks for the info.
Is there anyway to lift a 2 door jk without replacing the driveshafts? I read in your old man emu wirte up comments that even with the 2 inch lift, the driveshafts will have to be replaced. Sucks becasue the cost spikes once you consider the price of a decent lift, driveshafts, wheels, and tires. I estimate around $3000. Ouchy.
wayoflife February 6th, 2009 2:48 am
sure, if you have a 6-speed, you don't need to replace the front shaft. however, at 3″ or more, the rear will have to be addressed sooner than later. if you want to stick with your factory shafts, you should get a 2.5″ coil spacer lift. that will keep you in the safe zone.
enrapture6 February 6th, 2009 12:04 pm
i c… so you are saying that with a 2.5 inch coil spacer lift, no replacement of driveshafts is needed? even on an auotmatic 2 door? if so, then why wont the old man emu 2 inch work with out driveshaft replacements? i realize the old man emu lifts with springs and shocks, and the budget boost lifts with shocks and spacers. still, isnt the driveshaft replacement lift height dependent? if so, what is the cut-off height? sorry to be a pain, but i am trying to figure things out. thanks again for your help.
wayoflife February 6th, 2009 12:09 pm
for the rear at 3″ of lift or more, the angle of your rear drive shaft on a 2-door (which is very short) will be at too steep of an angle and this will cause your CV boots to wear out very quickly. needless to say, in the rear, this is height dependent. up front, the drive shaft is very long and even at 3″ or more, it will still sit at a shallow enough angle that your CV boots will not get compromised. however, with longer shocks, your axle will be able to droop a lot more and when this happens, your drive shaft will swipe into the tranny pan and this is what will tear the spline shaft boot. does this make sense?
enrapture6 February 6th, 2009 3:41 pm
makes total sense. thanks. so is there any suspension lift (springs and shocks) that can be used on a 2 door jk without replacing the driveshafts?
wayoflife February 6th, 2009 6:48 pm
the OME medium duty coil spring setup will give you about 2″ of lift exactly. also, the shocks they use are about stock lenght and so you will not get too much droop.
JIM March 26th, 2009 10:40 pm
dave May 30th, 2009 5:23 pm
My 2 door upper rear control arms measure 17-7/16″ center to center and in this write up you say:
57.Your Jeep JK Wrangler's factory rear upper control arms measure 17-11/16″ in length center to center. As a starting point, I set my new Full Traction adjustable rear upper control arms to being 17-13/16″ long which is 1/8″ longer than stock.
What the deal? I got wierd OEM arms or you got a mis-print?
greg August 24th, 2009 6:14 am
just finnished installing this kit on a RHD JK 4 DOOR CRD here in Australia, The kit works perfectly well but here are a few problems i ran in to for any ozzzys that want to get the kit. The eye on the front shocks i got with the kit were too small to accept the bushes and sleves off the original shocks, no problem though just got new bushes from a local pedders store that suited. Also the front trac bar supplied with the kit is 30mm too long and had to be cut, the shape is good and doesnt hit the pumpkin. I also found the measurements of the control arms in the write up didnt apply and the bolt which you suggested to cut came out (not easy but with a little manipulating it came out). In regards to the write up though I am very greatful and it made the job much easier. Thank you so much for taking the time to go into so much detail
Waiting August 30th, 2009 10:31 pm
Dave and/or WOL,
Are the measurements off because the write-up was done on a 4 door and Dave's JK is a 2 door?
wayoflife August 31st, 2009 12:14 am
the front end should be the same on both but on a 2-door, the rear uppers will be quite different.
Rick September 21st, 2009 10:50 pm
I was considering purchasing this lift but I have seen very negative feedback about the squeaking. Have you or anyone else found this to be an issue? This would completely drive me nuts.
Looks like you have ran both FT and Teraflex. Would you pick one over the other?
wayoflife September 22nd, 2009 1:59 am
so long as you maintain the bushings with a high quality grease, they will stay quite. what they offer over rubber bushings is a significant amount of bind free flex. having said that, i know that FT will be offering up rubber bushings as well.
EstianSwanepoel October 18th, 2009 7:14 am
Hey Eddie
Nice set of shoes on there!
Which wheels are those and what tires are on them?
Think this is the lift I'm gonna bring in to South Africa, so I won't have to ask you zillions of questions on JK-Forum and Facebook anymore
Appreciate all the advice
wayoflife October 19th, 2009 12:17 am
those are 17″ pro comp 8179 Black Wheels
Mike June 27th, 2010 12:56 pm
Hey, I was wondering if you had any squeaking issues coming from the 3″ full-traction ultimate lift kit? Ive read about other people having those issues with theirs. I have a 2010 Unlimited Rubicon and wanted to do the 4″ ultimate but was having second thought due to those reviews. Help Please!
Mike June 27th, 2010 1:02 pm
Ok, I just read another post a couple up from mine. What kind of bushings would make the squeaking noise? With the rubber bushings, would those wear out quick? How come the factory bushings don't squeak?
wayoflife June 27th, 2010 3:52 pm
the squeaking comes from the polyurethane bushings going dry. keep them greased and they shouldn't squeak. unfortunately, you do have to do this often but, they do offer a substantial amount of bind free flex. the factory bushing are bonded rubber and twist as opposed to rotating. this is why they do not need maintenance and do not squeak. they last a long time too but, bind up when flexing. having said that, you can still get a lot of flex out of them and full traction is now offering them in place of the poly bushings. if squeaking and maintenance is an issue for you, ask for them instead.
Mike June 27th, 2010 5:32 pm
Thanks for the quick and informative reply! Being in the military takes a lot of my time so I think the bonded rubber bushings might be my happy medium. As soon as I get home from this deployment in Afghanistan I can start on the project. One more thing, it will be a daily driver so what shocks would you recommend to keep the ride nice?
wayoflife June 27th, 2010 11:51 pm
The Bilstein's FT sells with their kit are really nice and I might go with them.
Mike June 28th, 2010 3:20 pm
Ok awsome! One more thing, would the 4″ ultimate lift kit with the rubber bushings have more articulation and flex than the factory Rubicon suspension?
wayoflife June 28th, 2010 3:25 pm
Adrian August 4th, 2013 8:38 pm
I understand that stock driveshafts will work up to a 3″ lift with the stock control arms, but does that apply to a 2.5″ or 3″ kit like this that replaces all 8 control arms?
Thanks, and hello from Canada!
wayoflife August 7th, 2013 12:06 pm
The control arms have nothing to do with what will work. The length of your shocks do. Anything longer than a stock shock with an extension will be too long and you front drive shaft will come into contact with an automatic transmission sump pan.
Leave a reply


text:
'Monsters Are My Pals': Guillermo del Toro Builds The World Of Pacific Rim
By Eric Eisenberg 2013-07-13 19:23:21 comments
I also wanted to ask about the international element of this film, because it is something that weve actually seen growing in blockbuster entertainment recently. Part of it is because of the growing importance of international box office, but as an international filmmaker yourself, how you feel about the globalization of major films like this?
For me, the interesting thing was to actually show the staple characters on an action movie like this on a different light, like Charlie Day is the strangest type of scientist you can find. You almost never have a leader quite like Idris Elba with a real North London accent. Then, when you get an Asian girl in an action movie, its a sex object. And youve never seen a character like Rinko and you always end up with a forced love story, you know. All these choices are to go counter, but still use the sort of staple characters of a movie like this.
Even to see most of the movie set in Hong Kong is a big change-up.
Well, let me put it this way, instead of destroying New York, we go and have the main battle in Hong Kong. I wanted the movie, from the get go, I said to them, I dont want to make a war movie. I want to make an adventure movie, and one of the things I loved as a kid was The Jungle Book, Zoltan Kordas The Jungle Book and I loved the exotism and I said I want to take this movie and set it in a Slavic locale. Id rather set it up in Hong Kong, Tokyo, blah, blah, blah and take them to places adventure movies normally dont go.
You largely avoid the Roland Emmerich thing. You destroy cities, but you dont necessarily destroy big landmarks.
And I think that was done earlier by King Kong or Ray Harryhausen. Ray Harryhausen took the Golden Gate Bridge. King Kong takes the Empire State Building. Its very linked to monster movies. Monster movies you always need a landmark to be destroyed.
I also do want to ask about your future projects as well, because you have Crimson Peak in the works right now. Youre planning on beginning next year, right?
So youre starting to build that world.
Well, we are halfway through the preproduction of The Strain. We start shooting that in September. we already opened offices for Crimson Peak. We already are in the middle of designing the house. I have a full art department. Wardrobe comes in two weeks from now and Im going to be prepping Crimson Peak while shooting The Strain and we shoot Crimson Peak in January.
Your work ethic is absolutely off the charts. How do you not burn out?
I dont know. Ive always been like this. Now its very public, but this is the way I did Cronos and when I did Cronos, I was still doing makeup effects. My company was running. I was sculpting, I was painting, I was servicing movies, storyboarding for other movies. I was doing a lot of that stuff. So same with, when I did Pans Labyrinth, I was writing the screenplay for Hellboy II, to give you an example, and I was preparing The Orphanage as a producer.
And you were writing The Strain during Hellboy II, also, right?
I was writing The Strain after Pans Labyrinth, during Hellboy II, during The Hobbit, and so forth. its always been like this and this morning, 4:30 am, I finished polishing a script of The Strain, send it to Carlton Cuse. Tomorrow morning, I am writing Dark Universe, polishing the outline.
I really dont like daily life that much. I really dont. Im socially inept. I dont enjoy nor am I good at social interactions. Monsters are my pals.
Over this entire time that youve been working on this project, youve constantly sung the praises of Legendary and you were even talking earlier about how they kept saying yes to all of your ideas. At the Mountains of Madness, have you pitched them on that?
Yeah, we almost made it this year. They picked Crimson Peak because they didnt want to do two big movies in a row with me, Pacific and Mountains. Crimson Peak is much smaller. Its about a quarter of the cost, and its about 50 million, and they said theyd rather gamble on that and then after that, maybe Mountains, you know.
So, its just a maybe at this point?
Its a maybe, but Im going to get it made. Don Murphy, who does some producing with me. Don never gives up, I dont know if you know him, but Don is like a force of nature.
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subset: commoncrawl


text:
Located in Southern California in the San Gabriel Valley just East of Pasadena.
720 East Foothill Boulevard
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Phone: 626.334.5215
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Designed & hosted by Vantage Media Marketing


text:
Saudi to hold waste management and recycling summit
A waste-management firm will open tomorrow an international summit on waste management and recycling to support the Kingdom's moves toward a greener and zero-waste environment for a sustainable future.
The Kingdom has been investing and pursing reforms to position itself as one of the world's most competitive economies at the start of the next decade, organizers said, to usher a "green era for our sustainable future" by exploring ways to recycle waste.
Summit organizer Nispana, which is redefining waste as residues, said it is "conducive to address the issue ... with respect to the minimal utilization of residues of various sectors."
Hence, it is coming up with the "Waste Management and Recycling Summit 2014 on April 23-24 at the Navotel Hotel in Riyadh which it expects to be attended by eminent local and international professionals in the waste management sector.
The summit will provide relevant companies and organizations the chance to host business meetings with decision makers from the government and private sectors or showcase their latest technology and expertise to prospective investors and project holders.
Organizers said officials from the Dammam Municipality, Jeddah Municipality, World Safety Organization and Saudi Green Building Council are supporting the project.
Industry leaders including Enviroplan SA, Ricardo-AEA, Arensco, Environmental Testing and Laboratories Company and Hellatron have already confirmed their participation.
Eng. Abd Elrahman Ali Alkahtani, Landfill Section Head of the Jeddah Municipality; Dr. Adam Read, Practice Director for Resource Efficiency & Waste Management of Ricardo-AEA; Dr. Mohammed Alhaj Hussein, Board member of Saudi Green Building Council in Jeddah; Erik de Baedts, Director of NVRD, are among the industrial experts who will present real-time case studies on waste management.
This summit is a platform for solution providers and others who want to present ways and means on how to reduce the problems on waste which is rising in Saudi Arabia.
This Summit will give insights into the situation and help create opportunities for networking and sharing experiences in waste management for professional development and lifelong learning.
Top Headlines
- Oman's Duqm tourist complex moves forward with government approval
- Kuwait fights budget deficit: Reexamining government salaries, expatriate labor
- Tunisian Confederation of Industry, Trade, and Handicrafts fights nationwide unemployment levels
- Construction costs fall in Dubai
- Western tourists flock to Iran, could generate $30B in new revenue
- Dulsco to showcase award-winning waste management equipment at Middle East Waste Summit 2010
- Saudi Arabia hosts oil summit in Jeddah
- Arab governments & industry leaders to commence new waste management agendas following 2nd Middle East Waste Summit
- The Palladium to host Middle East Waste Management summit 2010
- KSA demand for advanced waste management solutions rises as annual garbage yield spikes to 12 million tons


text: Shoe lovers rejoice! This month, Stuart Weitzman will be opening a new SoHo boutique at 118 Spring Street in NYC (corner of Spring and Green). You know how hard it is to find a shoe that's both sexy and comfy? Stuart Weitzman does the trick. Their shoes feel as good as they look and look as good as they feel. Check out the new collection at the new SoHo boutique or visit stuartweitzman.com.


text:
PHP 5.2.10 .debs for Ubuntu 10.4 (Lucid)
Everyone loves the latest-greatest, especially geeks and especially when it comes to geek toys like operating systems. A co-worker, who will go unnamed, couldn't resist the urge to install Ubuntu 10.4 (Lucid) the moment it was released. Ah, the beautiful interface, the cool toys, the modernity, the.... ouch! Hey, what the $#@*, my web sites don't work?!?
Unfortunately the latest-greatest is called the bleeding edge for a reason, and sometimes all that new goodness comes with an unhappy surprise. Lucid ships with PHP 5.3, which is the latest-greatest in the PHP world, however Drupal 5.x and 6.x (and as of this writing the yet-to-be-released 7.x) are not compatible with PHP 5.3. What's a poor latest-greatest-loving web developer to do? Fortunately we have options!
If you've done some googling you've likely discovered recipies for installing the Karmic PHP 5.2 .deb files on Lucid. Though I haven't tried it, this is reported to work. Rather than taking that option, I chose to rebuild the Karmic sources for PHP 5.2 on Lucid. The main difference being that the resulting .deb packages have been compiled against the newer libraries in Lucid. To my way of thinking this is a cleaner and safer way to do it, and it's essentially the reverse of how a typical "backport" would be done (where newer software is backported to an older operating system by compiling it against the libraries that came with that OS).
The attached .deb files are for PHP 5.2.10, built from the Karmic (9.10) sources against the various libraries that ship with Lucid. To use them with Lucid you will need to remove all existing PHP 5.3 packages (dpkg -r <package names>) and then download and install these PHP 5.2 packages (dpkg -i <package names>). Some of these packages are optional, as a minimum you will need php5-common and libapache2-mod-php5. If you're using Drupal you'll likely also want php5-mysql, php5-gd, and php5-curl too.
After you have installed these packages you will need to pin them, which will stop Lucid from wanting to upgrade you to PHP 5.3. After that you'll be good to go.
"however Drupal 5.x and 6.xSat, 05/15/2010 - 05:35 — Berdir
"however Drupal 5.x and 6.x (and as of this writing the yet-to-be-released 7.x) are not compatible with PHP 5.3".
This is not exactly true ;)
Drupal 6 itself is (apart from a bug in search.module, a patch has just been RTBC'd) compatible with PHP 5.3 but not compatible with E_DEPRECATED enabled. However, many contrib modules are still not so yes, many sites are in the end not compatible with PHP 5.3.
Drupal 7 is PHP 5.3, E_DEPRECATED *and* E_STRICT compatible. But again, contrib modules are a different story. As a fact, a recent patch for Drupal 7 forcefully actived E_STRICT which caused errors with contrib modules and was therefore reverted.
I *really* need to document that stuff on d.o :)
You could also run thisSat, 05/15/2010 - 08:20 — Stijn Beauprez
You could also run this script to downgrade all installed php packages:
#! /bin/sh
php_packages=`dpkg -l | grep php | awk '{print $2}'`
sudo apt-get remove $php_packages
sed s/lucid/karmic/g /etc/apt/sources.list | sudo tee /etc/apt/sources.list.d/karmic.list
sudo mkdir -p /etc/apt/preferences.d/
for package in $php_packages;
do echo "Package: $package
Pin: release a=karmic
Pin-Priority: 991
" | sudo tee -a /etc/apt/preferences.d/php
sudo apt-get update
sudo apt-get install $php_packages
cool script - worked great,Sun, 05/23/2010 - 13:46 — Roger
cool script - worked great, thanks.
Hello i have used your scriptThu, 06/03/2010 - 01:09 — arekanderu
i have used your script and it worked great. My questions is, what should i do to undone this when the time comes and upgrade to 5.3?
Thank you Stijn for you veryThu, 06/10/2010 - 01:44 — Florian
Thank you Stijn for you very useful script.
I suggest that you add the following line and the end to prevent upgrade of downgraded packages through aptitude :
aptitude hold $php_packages
Didn't work for me. I stillSat, 01/15/2011 - 17:08 — Friend
Didn't work for me. I still have 5.3.3
Same here. I still get 5.3.Tue, 01/18/2011 - 12:50 — Friend2
Same here. I still get 5.3. Any easy way to downgrade found?
#9 works like a charm! SimpleMon, 05/17/2010 - 10:10 — aleagi
#9 works like a charm!
Simple and straigh!
Thanks for this quick and efficient solution! @:)
Thank you for this, providedTue, 05/18/2010 - 07:31 — FlufyElmo
Thank you for this, provided a quick and easy solution for my problems. Much appreciated!
Ben, YOU ARE THE GREATESTSat, 08/28/2010 - 15:54 — Friend
Thank you - I spent one day looking for the solution until found your site.
This said I have to confess I spend 3 minutes, every day before going to bed saying a short prayer like this:
"Please God, Allah, Buddha, or whoever has the authority, keep an eye on this crazy Ubuntu guys an burn their fingers each time they approach the keyboard to modify a thing which is well know for running fine! "
Thank you Ben for the clearThu, 10/14/2010 - 04:48 — Eurypon
Thank you Ben for the clear explanation of what is going on. Thank you Stijn for the script: it worked like a charm. Thank you Florian for the useful addition.
Very much appreciated: a problem that bugged me for days was solved in minutes.


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About Us
Arcana Building Solutions is a U.S. based, privately held Building Material Supply and Construction Service Company that utilize our strong and established relationships with affiliated factories to strengthen our customer competitive edge and maximize their profits. Our network of affiliated factories specializes in sheet metal materials, finished metal products, cabinets, tiles, floor coverings, granite countertops, and specialty products.
Arcana Building Solutions has over 25 years of dedicated exceptional construction company experience with a wide selection of building material supplies, excellent quality products, competitive pricing, and an extensive management team at each step of each project. Our core strength is quality, timeliness, competitive pricing, construction experience, understanding our client needs, and delivering on our promises.
To ensure the longevity of our company through repeat referral business achieved by customer satisfaction in all areas including timeliness, attention to detail and service minded attitudes. Arcana Building Solutions stations on-site QA personnel at all of our affiliated factories and conducts strenuous QA inspection to screen for quality to insure all products meet specifications.
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To perform highest level of Quality Construction Services at competitive pricing Arcana Building Solutions creates a one stop shop business model that streamlines your products and services need. We manufacture and install directly resulting in cost savings that we provide to our customers.


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Alere Wellbeing's evidence-based programs address modifiable employee health risks that contribute to chronic disease: tobacco use, obesity, poor nutrition, physical inactivity, and stress.
Personalized coaching support that inspires your employees to identify and address unhealthy behaviors before they escalate into high-cost chronic conditions.
The nation's leading tobacco cessation program for employers and government agencies.
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We are committed to the advancement of the science of health behavior change. We maintain an active research program and offer training and program evaluation services.
Organizations choose us for our evidence-based, outcomes-driven behavior change programs and stay with us for the outstanding support and guidance they receive from our client services team.
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Hello respected webmasters,
Welcome to our website.
We would like to add a few notes for all the webmasters visiting this website.
If you decide to copy our work, our posts, clearly you think that this website has value.
It is ok for you to copy the lyrics as long as you place a (follow, not nofollow) link back to our page.
That is all we ask.We do work a lot to find new songs and write their lyrics.
We really check the web to see who copied our content constantly (a few times a day).
If you do not place a link back to our site we are forced to report you to Google and some other places used to report spammers (yes copying without a link back it is considered spamming).
If you place a link back to our page you will NOT be reported.This page will be your proof and it stands as our guarantee for you.
As you already know Google does not tolerate websites that copy the content.You will get a penalty sooner or later.
So please, simply add a link back to our page.
Thank you for understanding
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According to a Bloomberg report there was a serious discussion by Vivendi executives whether they should fire Activision CEO Bobby Kotick. That discussion happened last May while they were discussing selling Vivendi's stake back to Activision. The info comes from translated emails that are part of a June court filing alleging that Kotick threatened to quit if directors didn't allow him to lead a group that helped buy out most of Vivendi's stock for $8.2 billion.
"Activision's board of directors supports the ongoing leadership of the company by Bobby Kotick and Brian Kelly, who are the most effective executives in the interactive entertainment industry," company spokeswoman Maryanne Lataif told Polygon via email. "The recent transaction restructuring the company's ownership has received widespread market support."
The lawsuit was filed by Activision shareholder Anthony Pacchia and others, who allege that Kotick and his group violated their duties to shareholders by "approving a self-dealing and unfair transaction."
The emails reveal that Vivendi's then chief financial officer and Activision chairman Philippe Capron offered to fire Kotick "happily. Tomorrow if you want." Vivendi general counsel Frederic Crepin wrote in an email that he thought Kotick was betting that the company wouldn't "dare" let him go. Richard Sarnoff, one of Activision's independent directors, said he would help if Vivendi decided to fire Kotick.
Obviously none of that transpired and Kotick's $8.2 billion deal ended up going through.
A judge in Delaware ruled last month that Kotick and Activision chairman Brian Kelly must face the claims filed by Pacchia.
Source: Polygon


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any smart grid, utilities also need technology that ties together many disparate power sources, he said. Renewable energy generation often happens in small amounts over a large area. For example, one can hardly drive through a California suburb without spotting rooftop solar panels. SMUD likes the idea of buying the excess power generated by those panels, Slaton said, but it would need a way to connect and measure the power taken from them. New technology also plays a role in managing the inconsistency of renewable energy sources - for instance, triggering backup power generators when solar panels lack sun.
End of an Era
Moving to a smart grid also spells big changes for municipal utility workers. SMUD's transition to automated meters will eliminate the need for workers to drive to meters and manually record data.
"We started telling our meter readers several years ago that this was coming," Slaton said. "So the hires who we did hire, starting about four years ago, knew these were temporary jobs. This was not going to be career employment as a meter reader."
A large portion of younger workers will transition to other jobs within the utility. An alternative role for these employees could be answering customer service calls about bills or service. Managers of the meter-reading employees will switch to managing call-takers, according to Paul Lau, SMUD's assistant general manager of customer, distribution and technology.
Meter-reader managers currently spend much of their time in the field following up on complaints about unusually high bills and suspected electricity theft. After digital meter installation, these managers will view usage analytics and proactively search for potential problems. The job routine will involve dividing their time between the office and the field. A large number of older managers plan to retire as a result, because they don't want to sit in offices, Lau said. Many of the younger managers, by contrast, welcome the change.
"They say, 'Instead of being in the field all the time, I can do a combo. I can do the analysis, and I can actually run out there and see which ones need follow-up and figure out how I do those investigations,'" Lau said.
Smart meters also will alert SMUD to power outages before citizens report them. Now when outage reports hit SMUD's phone system, technicians in a map room try to deduce where to send repair crews. Frequently SMUD dispatches several trucks to determine exactly which power lines need repair. But with smart meter's accuracy, Slaton said SMUD can quickly determine which equipment needs fixing and can send one crew to fix it.
Developing New Skills
Times are changing for customer service call-takers too. SMUD will train employees on software designed to troubleshoot billing questions. Today when a customer reports an unusually high bill, call-takers normally transfer the complaint to management for investigation. A few days later, the caller receives feedback on what might have caused the high bill. With daily reporting from smart meters, customer service call-takers will do much of the investigative work on the phone with the customer.
"If you have a bill that comes through, you may say to the customer, 'On this date, your usage was much higher than normal. Did you have a party that day? Were you traveling? Were your kids at home or was it an exceptionally hot day?'" Lau said. "In the past, customer service representatives would ask the questions, but they wouldn't have any data in front of them. The customer wouldn't have any data in front of them either."
When customers call to complain about power outages, call-takers will be able to see whether power is flowing to the building. The software also will show which of the customer's neighbors have power. From there, the call-taker can


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Local Sheriff's Depts. Applaud Body Armor Law
June 4, 2013
Northern Panhandle sheriff's departments voiced approval of recently enacted legislation requiring departments statewide to provide deputies with bullet-resistant vests, a practice all six local......
Being required to Furnish and Wear are two different things Are they Required to wear them at all times?? If required and not worn, then injured or killed, insurence should be cancelled. As they say "The law is the law.
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Big Brother 15 Spoilers: Amanda and McCrae Get Married (PHOTOS)
Congratulations — or maybe eyerolls, headshakes, and deep condolences — are in order for Big Brother 15's Amanda and McCrae. Late last night (August 13), they got "married" in the house.
The season's longest-lasting showmance is still going strong, despite their near-constant insults to each other. So it makes sense that, like Rachel and Brendon's Brenchel wedding before them, McCranda decided to stage a tacky-cute Big Brother wedding.
The wedding played out on the live feeds, and you can read/see recaps at @BigBrotherLeak and @BB_Updates. CBS will probably air at least part of the wedding this week. Spencer was the ringbearer and Andy officiated, with the ladies as bridesmaids. (See a couple of photos below.)
Before the big event, McCrae told Andy and Spencer, "I don't even want to do this wedding sh-t!" In his vows, McCrae gave shoutouts to his friends back home and plugged his podcast. Amanda told him to "f-ck off." Lovely wedding already!
Amanda threw her bouquet and removed her garter belt; Elissa (who is already married, and sister to the Rachel of the previous wedding) caught the bouquet and Andy got the garter.
Afterward, the houseguests had food and Amanda complained to McCrae, "How are we going to consummate our marriage if you smell like an onion patch?" Ah, young love. They did manage to consummate the marriage, but they also discussed dumping each other for Elissa when it comes to the final two, since Elissa has shown she can't win anything.
Anyway, congrats to the insufferable happy couple!
Sources: @BigBrotherLeak, @BB_Updates


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Policy Insights
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Medical Debt Among Insured Consumers: The Role of Cost Sharing, Transparency, and Consumer Assistance
This policy insight examines medical debt among insured consumers, exploring how high cost sharing in health insurance plans can contribute, and explaining how greater transparency could help consumers avoid some financial pitfalls. It also provides an update on provisions of the Affordable Care Act meant to increase health plan transparency and bolster consumer assistance.Perspective Read More
Measuring the Impact of Ebola: Will it Reach 1.4 Million?
This Policy Insight take a deeper look at several key measures of the impact of the current Ebola epidemic in West Africa, including estimates of current cases, prevalence and death rates, as well as a consideration of the future projections of Ebola's burden in the months to come.Perspective Read More
The Potential Side Effects of Halbig
The Halbig case, if it prevails, would have far-reaching side effects on the Affordable Care Act's employer mandate and the functioning of the individual insurance market.Perspective Read More
Health Care Access and Coverage for the Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual, and Transgender (LGBT) Community in the United States: Opportunities and Challenges in a New Era
This Policy Insight looks at the challenges and questions surrounding recent policy changes that are expected to increase health insurance coverage and access to care for lesbian, gay, bisexual and transgender (LGBT) individuals and their families, including the impact of the Affordable Care Act (ACA) and the Supreme Court's DOMA decision.Perspective Read More
Health Cost Growth Is Down, Or Not. It Depends Who You Ask.
In this Policy Insight, Kaiser President and CEO Drew Altman explores the disconnect between experts, national studies and the public about whether health care costs are slowing or accelerating—it's a matter of perspective.Perspective Read More
Obamacare: The Metrics In The News Are Mostly Wrong
In this Policy Insights, Kaiser Family Foundation President and CEO Drew Altman explains how the measures of success for year one of Obamacare used in media coverage and national discussion is the equivalent of judging the local weather from national averages.Perspective Read More
One Year into Duals Demo Enrollment: Early Expectations Meet Reality
One year into initial enrollment in the Medicare-Medicaid financial alignment demonstrations for dual eligible beneficiaries, some initial insights are beginning to emerge. This policy insight highlights key challenges and trends emerging in states' demonstrations.Perspective Read More
Ebola in West Africa: Four Questions for the U.S. Response Going Forward
As of August 14, 2014, the Ebola virus has infected an estimated 1,975 individuals across four countries in West Africa, leading to 1,069 deaths (including three Americans). The official reported numbers, frightening as they are, likely vastly underestimate the true magnitude of the outbreak. Ebola has severely impacted the daily…Perspective Read More
Those Long Lines To Enroll In The ACA
In this Policy Insight, Kaiser Family Foundation President and CEO Drew Altman discusses the need for community based outreach to enroll the long term uninsured.Perspective Read More
The Mystery of the Missing $1,200 Per Person: Can Medicare's Spending Slowdown Continue?
This policy insight examines the unexpected drop in Medicare's per-beneficiary spending projections and its implications for beneficiaries and the program's future.Perspective Read More


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What are the busiest shopping days of the year?
Black Friday will be the busiest shopping day of the year, for the sixth year running, consumer traffic monitoring firm ShopperTrak said.
It's the kind of news that busts the mythbusters: For years, reporters trotted out stories saying that Black Friday was not the top shopping day amid claims that the Saturday before Christmas or the day after Christmas were busier. But ShopperTrak founder Bill Martin says the huge marketing push by stores has given Black Friday the top spot for some time.
"We now see the heavy promotion of Black Friday, and the social acceptance of time you sit around a Thanksgiving Day table (to discuss), 'What product are you going to buy, where are you going to go?" Martin said. "Black Friday has been promoted heavily by the retailers for the last couple of years, and the consumers have responded accordingly."
ShopperTrak deploys electronic monitors in 50,000 stores to count foot traffic. Using that data, the company forecast the top 10 shopping days of the 2012 holiday season. Over these 10 days, consumers will buy 36 percent of all merchandise sold in November and December, Martin said.
Below is a ranked list of the days in which the most customers will be in stores (not necessarily the days they'll spend the most money). Some shoppers might want to avoid the malls on these days.
- Friday Nov. 23 (Black Friday)
- Saturday Dec. 22 (Last weekend before Christmas)
- Saturday Dec. 15
- Saturday Dec. 8
- Wednesday Dec. 26 (Day after Christmas)
- Sunday Dec. 23 (Last weekend before Christmas)
- Saturday Nov. 24 (Small Business Saturday)
- Friday Dec. 21 (Last weekend before Christmas)
- Sunday Dec. 16
- Saturday Dec. 1


text: This Saturday My cuzin and I fished Rancho cucamonga Guasti Off the 10 freeway archibald exit. arrived at 8:30 on the north west end of the big lake and cought our limits by 12:30 we used rainbow power bait, number 18 trebble hook, 1ft 4lb test leader, 1\4oz weight, about 15ft out the fish were realy close but we also caught a few on farther casts 30ft out. The trout were 1.5lb to 3lb mount lasin trout. if any one is planing on going in the future they stock every thursday sp no one can fish till friday 7:30am adults are $7 parking is $5 kids are $4 weekends parking is $7 only difference. if your not fishing you dont have to pay they have a snak bar and restrooms also BBQ pits so if you wanted to take the familey out and wet the line guasti is the spot good luck and tight lines Joe.


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Sony announced at its E3 press conference the name, price and mobile carrier associated with its latest hand-held. The name of the device formerly known as NGP is now PS Vita, and will retail for $249 for the Wi-Fi only version and $299 for its Wi-Fi 3G version. The one wrinkle for users is that Sony has decided to use AT&T in North America. It's only a wrinkle if you are concerned about data caps, of course.
AT&T has monthly limits to its mobile broadband, with tiered service plans offering only a few hundred megabytes to several gigabytes per month. While Sony says that using Vita via your plan is "free," one would assume that it counts against your data cap dictated by your subscription plan.
On a related note, Sony says that over 80 games are in development for PS Vita from such companies as Acquire, Level-5, Namco Bandai, Capcom, D3 Publisher, AQ Interactive, Konami, Aksys Games, NIS America, Codemasters, EA, tri-Ace, Tomy, Idea Factory, Ignition, Enterbrain, FromSoftware, Yuke's, PopCap Games, Activision, and many more.
The PS Vita features front and rear touchpads, a high resolution OLED Screen, SIXAXIS motion sensor technology, dual analog sticks, front and rear cameras, access to cloud-based games data such as saves, and lots of other neat little features.
PS Vita will be released in Holiday 2011.


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Unfortunately, sometimes bad things happen. We get car insurance, homeowners insurance and health insurance to be on the safe side. But what if you are a renter? Who protects your belongings and makes sure you are not held responsible for personal or property damage at your apartment?
If you rent an apartment, condo, or home, rental insurance is your safeguard against property loss and personal liability.
Imagine the following scenarios:
Fire. Injury. Robbery. These are just a few reasons why people get apartment renters insurance. It is up to you to protect your belongings and prepare for the unexpected with rental insurance. Whether you are looking for apartment rental insurance or insurance to cover your storage rental, ResidentShield has the coverage to help you get back on your feet if those bad things happen.
Rental insurance with ResidentShield can help:
Receive a rental insurance quote from ResidentShield.
Use our calculator to help estimate the amount of personal content coverage you
will want to purchase.


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Craftsy Member since October 2012
I'm enrolled in these Craftsy classes:
Creative Quilt Backs
Craftsy Block of the Month 2012
I love sewing, photography, painting and crafts. don't like knitting or crochet so much, but try just about anything once. might not finish it, but I'll give it a whirl once.
Take Craftsy with you!
Craftsy Apps for iOS and Android. Read more »


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Smiling, frowning, squinting - these facial movements take a toll on the thin, moisture-deprived skin around your eyes, leading to crow's feet, wrinkles and expression lines. Plus, this delicate area is prone to other issues like dark circles and puffiness. These problems need special treatment. iS Clinical Eye Products can help. Their line of eye products used advanced, clinically-proven ingredients like vitamin C, copper peptides and plant-based antioxidants to strengthen the delicate skin around the eyes and improve elasticity. Even after the first use, lines and wrinkles appear softer and skin feels smoother - and improvement continues over time. It's targeted therapy for the special needs of the skin around the eyes. Find out what other shoppers are saying by visiting the iS Clinical Eye Products Reviews page.
You want to feel confident that the products you're choosing really work. That's why we created the iS Clinical Eye Products Reviews page - so you can get feedback from other shoppers. This special section includes product ratings on the products you're considering along with reviews you can access before making your final selections. To get there from the introductory page, click on the iS Clinical Eye Products Reviews link. To read reviews on a single product, click on the "reviews" tab on any product description page.
Bring together renowned researchers, pharmacologists and physicians, all with expertise in anti-aging and skin health, and you have the force behind iS Clinical Eye Products. As a company whose mission it is to bring the most advanced anti-aging skin care products to the market, they formulate their cutting-edge products with ingredients that deliver visibly more youthful skin. Each product is backed by research and testing to ensure that it's safe and effective. Whether you're looking for products that cleanse, hydrate, treat or protect, they have solutions that deliver results. Find out what other customers are saying by visiting the iS Clinical Eye Products Reviews page.
Product descriptions are one source of information. They tell you what types of skin a product is good for and what benefits you can expect from the product – but they don't tell the full story. Sometimes you want unbiased information about how a product works. Does it deliver the results it says it will? One way to get answers is to visit the iS Clinical Eye Products Reviews page and read reviews on the products from shoppers who have used them. Reviewers can rank products up to three times based on how easy it was to use, its perceived value and overall performance. You can even sort the reviews to see top-rated products first or the ones most recently reviewed. Just as helpful are the comments reviewers leave. This is where you'll find out exactly what a shopper liked or didn't like about a product.
After purchasing a product, we hope you'll come back and let us know how it performed by writing iS Clinical Eye Products Reviews of your own. It's easy to do. Simply log into your account at the SkinStore.com and go to the description page of a product you've tried. Click on the "write a review" link to begin sharing your thoughts. We hope to see you back often!


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Wonderland of Ice – Ice and Roller Skating Rinks in Bridgeport CT
Wonderland of Ice and Roller Skating Rink is a 1.sheet ice and 1 floor indoorfacility that is open year round. Ice skating sessions for All Ages are availble at Wonderland of Ice. Ice skating lessons are also available. Wonderland of Ice and Roller Ska


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Between the issues queue, Twitter, podcasts, and ad hoc discussions, there is a lot of confusion about what the Features module is all about. As someone that has used and developed in it for a long time, I thought I'd lend my perspective. My sense is the maintainers are on the same page, but don't hold them to this post.
Features is a module to help site builders and command-line gurus easily package up the configuration associated with a specific use case (like a blog), and manage it in code.
I have found more than once a situation in which I had a basic feature that could be used on any site which I would like to see integrated with Spaces (for OpenAtrium magic). It usually runs like this:
When you read through Kit, one of the themes that keeps cropping up is the concept of specific relevance. How do you know when it is a good idea to include a given variable, permission, or other component in your Feature?
I decided a few notes would help me grok the Kit Specification. I post them here in case someone else finds them useful.
Project Name and Feature Name should be the same. They should have a nice, unique namespace. The human readable version doesn't need to show the prefix. Views and other individually exported pieces should be prefixed with the not-necessarily-unique part of the Feature name.
This summary currently covers the Features Specification 1.0-draft.
It turns out that running your own Feature Server isn't that complicated. Get a Drupal site. Install the fserver feature. It's most exotic requirements are Filefield and Context, and context is just their to facilitate easy block placement of release information.
All the feature really does is provide a fancy XML Views style plugin, a couple content types with their CCK fields to specify things like version information, and some special file-handling magic to push files and tarballs around.
Feature Servers have great potential to help structure the use of code sourced outside the formal ecosphere around Drupal.Org this has it's pro's and con's, but I already see their usefulness in providing a little more structure to issue-queue code exchanges and organization-internal modules. So let's bring Drush into this and boost the ease of use of that usefulness another step up.
Bio in Brief: I spend a lot of time thinking about how to build collaboration tools in Drupal. Before that I noodled about with Java looking at long-term data preservation and geospatial data discovery.
© 2011 grayside.org ♠ Powered by Drupal ♠ Crouching on Ubuntu


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American Horror Story Is Using Angelina Jolie Role As Inspiration For Season 2 Casting
By Kelly West 4 years ago comments
The latest bit of vaguely spoilery news about the second season of American Horror Story is intriguing, and it has something to do with Angelina Jolie. No, Ryan Murphy and Brad Falchuk arent seeking the Oscar winner for a role in the series, but they are using one of her previous roles as a template for a character in the second season. Spoilers ahead!
TV Line shared the news, stating that, via a casting notice, the FX drama series is looking for someone to play the role of Gia, a a fierce, ferocious, extremely sexual and dangerous wild-child sexpot who harbors a secret. The casting notice specifies think Angelina Jolie in Girl Interrupted." Jolie won an Oscar for her role in the film, which had her playing one of the residents of the institution in which Winona Ryders character Susanna Kaysen is living. On a random aside, I cant help but wonder if the characters name, Gia, was inspired by another role played by Jolie.
TV Line says this character will be the rival to Jessica Langes character, and as the second season is said to be set in a mental institution, using a character from a film that takes place in one as inspiration seems like a fitting way to approach the casting process. It sounds like an especially intriguing part, and it should be interesting to see who is cast for it.
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