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Main Basements complete : expert advice from start to finish
Basements complete : expert advice from start to finishSteve Cory
Basements often get a bad rap. They can be dark, dank, and depressing, and are some of the most challenging spaces in a home to remodel. But the rewards of tackling a basement remodel are potentially enormous―transforming an otherwise ignored space into a bright, open, and usable asset, perfect for a spare bedroom for guests, a game room for the kids, or a den for the adults.
In Basements Complete, author Steve Cory covers the most popular remodeling approaches and projects for basements, including information on preventing mold and mildew, moving pipes up or over to make more headroom, bringing more light into a dark space, mitigating radon, and sealing floors and walls. Additionally, some of the projects―such as flooring, plumbing, and wiring―apply to other rooms in the house, but are treated here with an eye towards basement needs.
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Taunton's EXPERT ADVICE FROM START TO FINISH BASEMENTS COMPLETE STEVE CORY Taunton's BASEMENTS COMPLETE EXPERT ADVICE FROM START TO FINISH STEVE CORY Text © 2018 by the Taunton Press, Inc. Basement Systems; p. 46: Perma-Seal Basement Systems; p. 47: Perma- Photographs by Steve Cory © 2018 by The Taunton Press, Inc. Seal Basement Systems; p. 53: Shawn Greene, Green Projects, Chicago Illustrations © 2018 by The Taunton Press, Inc. (top center and top right); p. 56: Mike Fish, Vogon Construction, Chicago; All rights reserved. p. 57: Shawn Greene, Green Projects, Chicago (bottom left and bottom center); p. 58: Tech Lighting (right); p. 59: Tech Lighting; p. 60: Just Pp The Taunton Press, Inc. 63 South Main Street, PO Box 5506 Newtown, CT 06470-5506 e-mail: email@example.com Editor: Carolyn Mandarano Copy editor: Nina Rynd Whitnah Indexer: Cathy Goddard Jacket/Cover design: Kim Adis Interior design: Kim Adis Layout: Sandra Mahlstedt and Susan Lampe-Wilson Illustrator: Mario Ferro Photographers: Steve Cory, except p. 5: Stephanie Montanari of Redstart Construction, Inc.; p. 6: Just Basements, www.justbasementsottawa.ca (left) and Tech Lighting (right); p. 7: Just Basements, www.justbasements ottawa.ca; p. 8: courtesy of Armstrong Flooring, Inc. (top) and Just Basements, www.justbasementsottawa.ca (bottom); p. 9: Dreamstime (top and bottom right) and Just Basements, www.justbasementsottawa.ca (bottom left); p. 10: Just Basements, www.justbasementsottawa.ca; p. 11: Just Basements, www.justbasementsottawa.ca (top, center, and bottom left), courtesy of Armstrong Flooring, Inc. (top right), and Krause Construction, LLC, Denver, Colo. (bottom right); p. 12: courtesy of IKEA (top left), Dreamstime (top right), and courtesy of Armstrong Flooring, Inc. (bottom); p. 13: Dreamstime (left), Shutterstock (top right), and design: Suzanne Martin, LLS, build: Michael Martin, Luxury Renovations (bottom right); p. 14: courtesy of IKEA (top and bottom left) and courtesy of Armstrong Flooring, Inc. (bottom right); p. 15: courtesy of IKEA (top); p. 16: SFA Saniflo, Inc., manufacturer of macerating and grinding toilet system (top), Just Basements, www.justbasementsottawa.ca (bottom left), and courtesy of IKEA (bottom right); p. 17: Kohler Co. (top left), courtesy of IKEA (bottom left), Stephanie Montanari of Redstart Construction, Inc. (top right), and Tech Lighting (bottom right); p. 18: Kohler Co. (top) and Tech Lighting (bottom); p. 19: Just Basements, www.justbasementsottawa.ca (top left), Krause Construction, LLC, Denver, Colo. (top right), and design: Suzanne Martin, LLS, build: Michael Martin, Luxury Renovations (bottom); p. 20: courtesy of IKEA (top and bottom right) and Dreamstime (bottom left); p. 21: design: Suzanne Martin, LLS, build: Michael Martin, Luxury Renovations (top) and Dreamstime (bottom); p. 34: Perma-Seal Basement Systems; p. 35: Perma-Seal Basement Systems (bottom);p. 38: Perma-Seal Basement Systems; p. 39: courtesy of Wellcraft Egress Systems (bottom right); p. 40: PermaSeal Basement Systems; p. 41: Perma-Seal Basement Systems (bottom); p. 42: Perma-Seal Basement Systems (bottom right); p. 44: Perma-Seal Basements, www.justbasementsottawa.ca; p. 61: Just Basements, www. justbasementsottawa.ca (bottom); p. 70: Shawn Greene, Green Projects, Chicago; p. 72: Tech Lighting; p. 73: Tech Lighting; p. 75: Just Basements, www.justbasementsottawa.ca; p. 113: Shawn Greene, Green Projects, Chicago; p. 119: SFA Saniflo, Inc., manufacturer of macerating and grinding toilet system (center right); p. 158: Dancer Concrete Design Team (left) and DRIcore Products (right); p. 159: Just Basements, www.justbasements ottawa.ca; p. 160: Just Basements, www.justbasementsottawa.ca (top) and design by Ryan Duebber, architect (bottom); p. 161: Just Basements, www. justbasementsottawa.ca (top left) and Dancer Concrete Design Team (top right and bottom); p. 162: DRIcore Products; p. 163: DRIcore Products; p. 182: courtesy of Armstrong Flooring, Inc. (left); p. 183: Dreamstime; p. 184: courtesy of Armstrong Flooring, Inc.; p. 185: courtesy of Armstrong Flooring, Inc. (top left and top right) and Just Basements, www.justbasementsottawa.ca (bottom); p. 195: design: Suzanne Martin, LLS, build: Michael Martin, Luxury Renovations (top); p. 197: courtesy of Daltile; p. 212: Dancer Concrete Design Team; p. 215: Dreamstime; p. 217: courtesy of Wellcraft Egress Systems; p. 218: courtesy of Wellcraft Egress Systems; p. 219: courtesy of Wellcraft Egress Systems; p. 235: Shutterstock The following manufacturers/names appearing in Basements Complete are trademarks: American Standard®, CleanSpace®, DRIcore®, DryTrak®, EverLast™, Kevlar®, Kohler®, National Electrical Code®, Oneida Dust Deputy®, Ping-Pong®, SaniDry™, Saniflo®, SharkBite®, Sheetrock®, ShopVac®, SMARTWALL®, Strait-Flex®, Teflon®, WaterGuard®. Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Names: Cory, Steve, author. Title: Basements complete : expert advice from start to finish / Steve Cory. Description: Newtown, CT : Taunton Press, Inc., [2018] | Includes index. Identifiers: LCCN 2017047734 | ISBN 9781631868467 (print) | ISBN 9781641550062 (pdf format) | 9781641550086 (mobi format) Subjects: LCSH: Basements--Remodeling. Classification: LCC TH4816.3.B35 C69 2018 | DDC 643/.5--dc23 LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2017047734 Printed in the United States of America 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 About Your Safety: Construction is inherently dangerous. Using hand or power tools improperly orignoring safety practices can lead to permanent injury or even death. Don't try to perform operations you learn about here (or elsewhere) unless you're certain they are safe for you. If something about an operation doesn't feel right, don't do it. Look for another way. We want you to enjoy working on your home, so please keep safety foremost in your mind. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS M any thanks to Mike Fish of Vogon Construction, whose excellent advice, oceandeep knowledge, and willingness to slow down and pose for photographs were indispensable. Mike's basement provided the setting for many of the photos in this book, and he can be seen as a model throughout. Expert carpenter Gus Luna was invaluable. Also heartfelt thanks to Joe Hansa and Danny Campana for their expertise and information. William Shuman was a model deluxe. The artful and imaginative Chicago remodeler Shawn Greene provided very helpful photographs. Many thanks to Perma-Seal Basement Systems (www.permaseal.net; 800-421-SEAL). Perma-Seal serves Chicagoland and northwestern Indiana homeowners with their basement waterproofing, crawl space, air quality, sewer backup, and concrete-raising solutions. Roy Spencer, President and Founder of PermaSeal, provided many photos showing the company's proven techniques as well as his expertise on the subject of making basements ready for any remodeling project. DRIcore® Products supplied photos showing SMARTWALL®, an easy-to-install wall system that stays dry and mold-free in damp conditions. Wellcraft Egress Systems provided photos showing their excellent egress windows, which make a basement both safer and more appealing. Jim Reddington of Safeway Plumbing knows all things plumbing, and his guys—the brothers Eddie and Joe Slazyk—posed and showed the way to install reliable plumbing. A special thank you to the companies that generously provided high-quality products that appear in the book: The Kohler® Company (kohler.com) and American Standard® (www.americanstandard-us.com) supplied plumbing fixtures. Cork flooring was supplied by WE Cork (www.wecork.com; 800-666-CORK). And the up-flush toilet system was provided by SFA Saniflo® Inc., manufacturer of macerating and grinding toilet systems (www.saniflo.com; 800-571-8191). The entire staff at The Taunton Press were most helpful at all points, and a joy to work with. As always, my wife Diane Slavik artfully punched my text into readable shape, and stern but always pleasant textmistress Carolyn Mandarano of The Taunton Press made the book truly reader-friendly. —Steve Cory contents REMODELING OPTIONS THE GRITTY REALITY LIVING AREAS UNDERSTANDING YOUR BASEMENT 6 8 10 12 13 Family Rooms Entertainment Spaces Bedrooms Workout Rooms 22 58 SIMPLE SOLUTIONS 24 Anatomy of a Basement 25 Wall and Footing Materials 60 UTILITY ROOMS KEEPING OUT MOISTURE 14 16 18 19 20 27 Make It Dry 28 Testing for Moisture 29 Redirecting Rainwater 31 Installing a Sump Pump and Drain 34 Other Interior Drain Solutions 38 Sealing from the Outside 39 Windows 62 Getting Ready to Get Ready 63 Planning and Drawing 67 Working with Subcontractors 67 The Order of Work 68 Electrical and Plumbing Installations 72 Choosing Lighting Offices and Craft Centers Bathrooms Kitchens Bars and Wine Cellars Laundries STRUCTURAL PROBLEMS AND SOLUTIONS 41 Spotting Problems 44 Solving Problems 48 Posts and Beams 51 Sealing Ducts and Pipes 52 Upgrading Major Appliances 54 Lowering a Basement Floor 55 Pests 56 Radiant Floor Heat INTRODUCTION 4 PLAN LAYOUTS AND INSTALLATIONS Minimalist Approaches LAYOUT CONSIDERATIONS FRAMING WALLS AND CEILINGS ROUGH PLUMBING 74 PREPPING OUTSIDE WALLS FOR FRAMING 76 Keeping the Framing and Insulation Dry FRAMING 80 A Basic Framed Wall 81 Planning and Buying Materials FRAMING BASIC WALLS 82 Laying Out on the Plates 83 Building a Wood Wall Frame on the Floor 86 Piecing in Wood Framing 88 Framing with Metal Studs 90 Framing Windows and Doors SPECIAL FRAMING SITUATIONS 94 Lowering a Ceiling 96 Building an Interior Wall 98 Framing a Plumbing Wall 100 Framing and Finishing a Curved Wall 101 Framing around Obstructions 106 PLUMBING DWV LINES 108 Understanding DWV Pipes 109 The Importance of Venting 110 AAVs to the Rescue, Maybe 110 Pipe Materials 111 DWV Plans 112 Working with DWV Pipe 113 Running Drainpipes under the Floor 114 Running Drainpipes through a Wall 117 Up-flush Systems RUNNING SUPPLY LINES 120 Supply Pipes 120 Working with Copper Pipe 122 Running Copper Pipe through Walls 124 Working with PEX OVERALL SETUPS 128 Rough Plumbing Configurations 132 Making a Custom Shower Pan >> >> >> >> contents (cont.) ROUGH WIRING 136 WALLS AND CEILINGS UNDERSTANDING WIRING APPROACHES TO WALLS 138 139 140 140 160 Wall Surface Options 164 Installing Insulation between Studs The Service Panel Circuit Wiring Avoiding Overloads Common Codes WORKING WITH CABLE, WIRES, AND BOXES 142 Stripping Cable and Wires 143 Splicing Wires 144 Connecting Wires to Terminals INSTALLING BOXES AND CABLE 146 Installing Boxes 147 Running NM Cable into Plastic Boxes 148 Hooking Cable to Metal Boxes 149 Ceiling Boxes 150 Installing a Canister Light Body 151 Wiring with Conduit FINAL INSTALLATIONS 154 C ommon Wiring Arrangements CONNECTING TO POWER 156 T apping into an Existing Circuit 157 Running a New Circuit HANGING DRYWALL 167 167 171 173 Choosing Drywall Cutting Drywall Hanging Drywall Finishing Drywall FLOORING 158 182 FLOORING OPTIONS 184 C ommon Types of Flooring REPAIRS 186 P atching and Repairing a Concrete Floor FLOOR SUBSTRATES 188 Installing a Subfloor FINISH FLOORING 195 L aying Out the Finished Floor 197 Laying Ceramic or Stone Tile 203 Installing a Floating Floor 208 Installing Carpeting 210 Installing Carpet Tiles 212 Acid Staining the Floor WINDOWS, DOORS, AND TRIM FINISH PLUMBING AND WIRING WINDOWS AND DOORS FINISH PLUMBING 216 Installing a Window 217 Installing an Egress Window 220 Installing an Interior Prehung Door 236 Installing Stop Valves 237 Installing Tub and Shower Fixtures 239 Installing a Toilet 242 Installing a Vanity Sink 243 Installing a Pedestal Sink 244 Installing a Bathtub 214 TRIMWORK 223 Choosing Trim Materials 224 Trimming a Door 226 Trimming a Window on the Inside 229 More Casing Possibilities 230 Trimming a Window on the Outside 232 Installing Baseboard Trim 234 FINISH WIRING 247 Installing Devices and Fixtures 247 Installing Switches and Receptacles 248 Installing Lights INDEX 250 3 INTRODUCTION M any basements are largely forgotten and underutilized spaces, places you visit only if a major appliance like a furnace, boiler, or water heater needs repair. It may be where you store boxes and bins of stuff you rarely need to access. But a basement can be much more. Even if today your basement looks like a dark cavern with ugly walls, a plain concrete floor, and a ceiling that features all sorts of complicated-looking pipes and cables, it can most likely be turned into livable space. With some imagination and elbow grease, a basement can offer more functionality to your home without having to change the footprint—think space to entertain, relax, work, exercise, sleep, and more. The first chapter of this book will help inspire you, with ideas for a range of basement rooms that are both practical and fun. Set up with attractive wall surfaces, practical yet good-looking flooring, and ample lighting, basement rooms can look and feel much like upstairs rooms. The next chapter, starting on p. 22, gets down to the gritty reality: Before you start even planning a basement remodel, it's essential that a basement be strong 4 and stable, and that it be protected against moisture. Here you'll learn how to fix things the right way (and learn when to call in a pro) to ensure good conditions in the future. The chapter on plan layouts and installations (pp. 58–73) will guide you through the planning process, including developing floor plan options, determining ceiling heights, making electrical and plumbing choices, and deciding on the best ways to create walls, floors, and ceilings for your situation. The rest of the book gives detailed instructions for the most common basement installations: framing walls and ceilings (pp. 74–105); running plumbing lines (pp. 106–135); running electrical lines (pp. 136–157); finishing walls and ceilings (pp. 158–181); laying flooring (pp. 182–213); installing windows, doors, and trim (pp. 214–233); and installing finish plumbing and wiring (pp. 234–249). I encourage you to read this book before jumping right in so that you understand the scope of what's involved in creating your new living space and learn how to complete the process in an organized, efficient manner. 5 REMODELING OPTIONS A FIRST LOOK AT YOUR BASEMENT may present a depressing prospect: dingy walls, cracked flooring, hanging pipes, and ugly utility appliances that seem to be in the way of achieving a decent floor plan. But as future chapters of this book will show, these problems can usually be overcome. So go ahead and start your planning with a little wistful dreaming: It costs nothing to imagine possibilities. LIVING AREAS Family Rooms, p. 8 Entertainment Spaces, p. 10 Bedrooms, p. 12 Workout Rooms, p. 13 6 UTILITY ROOMS Offices and Craft Centers, p. 14 Bathrooms, p. 16 Kitchens, p. 18 Bars and Wine Cellars, p. 19 Laundries, p. 20 Think about the future as well as the present. If you have small children, they will become teenagers, then leave the house—and it all happens faster than we expect. Of course, many distinct spaces, like a bedroom or a family/ entertainment room, can become popular destinations for folks of most any age. A bathroom with a spa may be popular with young people but is also a feature adults might like to soothe older joints and muscles. This chapter is arranged according to room types. If you want to plan for discrete rooms that serve the needs of different people, or a suite of rooms that might form a sort of apartment, be sure to consider traffic patterns. If people will spend a fair amount of time in these rooms, you will probably want a bathroom, or at least a powder room. Of course, you'll also need to plan around the utilities—the water heater and perhaps softener, the electrical service panel, and the furnace or boiler. If possible, put them in a separate utility room, where they can be accessed easily but also be safely away from children. 7 REMODELING OPTIONS >> LIVING AREAS FAMILY ROOMS T he idea of a family room is to create a space that all members of the family will want to use for relaxation and fun. It is a largish room that can combine many of the functions described for the other types of rooms in this chapter: a play area with storage bins for toys, a TV area with seating, a table where groups can play board games, a computer station, and perhaps a pool or PingPong® table. Creating a family room is pretty straightforward. It's an open, usable space; the simpler the better, so you can rearrange furniture as your family changes over the years. There is no plumbing to run or fixtures to install, other than providing receptacles and lighting, as well as computer and TV hookups. Make it a cheery, well-lit space. A large cabinet has doors that can hide the television, instantly transforming a video room into a center for interacting with friends and family. The owners call this their basement loft. The ceiling is the original structural beams and joists system painted white to add the feeling of higher ceilings and to lighten the space. With young children in the family, boxed-in lally columns and walls help to break the large space into age-appropriate areas. 8 FAMILY ROOMS LIVING AREAS >> REMODELING OPTIONS Built-out walls allow for extra wall insulation, as well as an attractive nook for shelving and a television. Don't be afraid to add splashy colors and age-appropriate art to liven up a living space. Here, sci-fi memorabilia make a fun personalized teen statement. If one or more basement walls are at least partly above ground, consider installing spacious windows. FAMILY ROOMS 9 REMODELING OPTIONS >> LIVING AREAS ENTERTAINMENT SPACES A video area with extra space feels like a real theater. The house lights—a grid of overhead recessed canisters and sconces on the walls near the ceiling—are all on dimmers, to complete the movie-going experience. A basement is often more casual than the rest of the house, making it a place where people can let their hair down and have some fun. Of course, "fun" varies from family to family, so plan according to your habits. And you may want to expand your gaming repertoire by installing a pool or Ping-Pong table, or adding a large table and lots of storage for jigsaw puzzles or creative projects. Every home benefits from having a giant table surface somewhere in the house. A pleasantly refurbished basement can become a place where the family draws closer together with new activities. For many of us, television is king. You may want to celebrate this universal addiction by creating a fullblown viewing center, complete with a giant screen and cushy reclining theater seating that incorporates lighted drink holders, fold-out trays, ambient lighting, and more to enhance your couch-potato time. Or, just position chairs where people can use them either for watching TV, gaming, or reading and relaxing. If you have children, it's not difficult to adapt a space for them. Be sure to lay flooring that is easy to clean, or replace, and include storage space in your design to make cleanup easy. 10 ENTERTAINMENT SPACES Your own personal sound stage is feasible in the basement, which makes it possible to jam into the night, acoustically speaking, without bothering the rest of the family. LIVING AREAS >> REMODELING OPTIONS This inviting space offers a wet bar with lots of storage and floating shelves on a stone wall, together with a pool table—the perfect setup to unwind. KIDS' STUFF A basement can be an ideal place for young children or teenagers: They can have their own space, they can make noise without bothering people upstairs too much, and parents know they are safe. A kids' area can be a simple open space for play, with some creative touches and storage shelves (below). Or, it can be a small space under the stairs, just right for pint-sized imaginations (bottom). A couple of arcade games and an old-time popcorn maker are just off the TV viewing area. Comfortable space for the whole gang makes movie night. Recliners with cup holders and trays make it easy to feast on gourmet snacks. When planning, just be sure there is access to bring in big equipment and oversize chairs. ENTERTAINMENT SPACES 11 REMODELING OPTIONS >> LIVING AREAS BEDROOMS U nless you cherish plenty of bright sunlight, a basement can be a fine place for a bedroom—or a great place for a guest bedroom. It's secluded and usually quiet—and nice and dark at night. Often, teenagers and young adults like to move into the basement, where they can have more privacy and fewer comments from their parents about their cleaning habits. We'll leave it up to you to decide on standards for the teen cave. This spacious, open bedroom decorated in earth tones is stylishly lit by pendant and floor lamps. It is a sophisticated and comfortable space suitable for guests or family members. 12 BEDROOMS Closet units like these assemble in a snap. They are perfect options for a casual bedroom. LIVING AREAS >> REMODELING OPTIONS WORKOUT ROOMS A basement is a great place for exercise equipment: Noisy machines or loud workout music is less likely to bother others; you can get all sweaty and pant without worrying about people watching you; and having a dedicated workout room can make it easier to develop good habits. Most people find that it helps to have a screen or two, either with good speakers or headphones. You may choose to fully equip a room with nothing but machines, mats, and weights, ensuring that once you enter, you have nothing else to do but work out. Or, include some simple equipment in an all-purpose family room. You don't need a lot of equipment to stay fit. For many, a simple mat, which can roll up and be stored under the sofa, plus a few small weights, are all that's needed. This large room has ample space for a Ping-Pong table and several pieces of exercise equipment. Cork tiles on the wall make a forgiving surface in case of mishaps or rambunctiousness. This workout room located just behind the media area makes it convenient to watch the big-screen TV with surround sound while working out. The bright ceiling color adds upbeat energy to the room. WORKOUT ROOMS 13 REMODELING OPTIONS >> UTILITY ROOMS OFFICES AND CRAFT CENTERS M any people think of an ideal home office as a sunny place with stunning views out the window. However, those who actually want to get work done often prefer a place with fewer distractions—and a basement may be a better choice. Unless you're writing Gothic fiction or vampire novels, you probably don't want the office to be positively gloomy, and the projects and tips in this book are full of ideas for making rooms bright and cheerful even where there is little or no natural light. Install plenty of electrical receptacles. To be safe, the office should be on its own electrical circuit to ensure you will not trip a breaker and lose data. Plan for Internet connectivity, which can sometimes be a problem in a basement, using either a wireless or a cable connection, or both. If you like to craft but want to keep crafty clutter and perhaps fumes out of the upstairs living areas, make room for a below-stairs arts and crafts area. Keep things as large as possible: a large table or two, and plenty of capacious shelving and bins for storing materials. Make surfaces easy to wipe clean. And be sure you can open a window or turn on an exhaust fan, when ventilation is needed. A workspace for a young adult or professional, this small and simple space must be kept tidy to be usable—a great strategy against clutter! Playful wall-mounted strings allow for hanging artwork—or any work in progress. Black-and-white is a time-honored color scheme that feels contemporary. Glass cabinet doors make it easy to find stored documents yet keep them from getting dusty. A unit with lots of large drawers is always welcome. A spacious room with lots of storage is a crafter's dream. This cheerful space doubles as a sewing and art room, and even includes a sink. Basement rooms can be a good place to recycle old kitchen cabinets. 14 OFFICES AND CRAFT CENTERS UTILITY ROOMS >> REMODELING OPTIONS Straightforward, inexpensive materials combine to keep things well organized without fuss. A strip of wood on the wall holds bars and hooks for all sorts of small items. The desk is a simple slab with wood supports. Walland desk-mounted swing-arm lamps can be quickly adjusted to perfectly suit your needs. Traditional file cabinets add to the feel of an office that means business. A small space tucked in near the stairs combines a library, a sewing table, a chalkboard for children's art, and a desk. OFFICES AND CRAFT CENTERS 15 REMODELING OPTIONS >> UTILITY ROOMS BATHROOMS A bathroom in the basement is a welcome addition whether people spend the night in a bedroom or just hang out for periods of time. Often a small powder room with just a toilet and sink will suffice, but a shower or tub—or even a spa tub—can be a luxurious place to relax and get clean. A bathroom in a basement is sometimes inexpensive to install because supply and drainpipes are nearby and easy to run. However, in some situations, the drain may pose difficulties because the only drain lines lower than the bathroom are under the concrete floor. This situation isn't insurmountable, though: You could break into the concrete or install an up-flush system, as shown on pp. 117–119. Plan for adequate ventilation, especially if your basement does not have many operable windows. A bathroom should have a powerful vent fan that efficiently shunts moist air to the outside. A powder room tucks under the basement stairway. Behind the toilet is an up-flush unit that pumps waste up to a drainpipe, so you don't have to cut into the floor. With plenty of lighting, you can forget that the bathroom is in the basement. A clean and modern powder room in light, bright hues is a welcome addition to any family basement remodel. 16 BATHROOMS UTILITY ROOMS >> REMODELING OPTIONS CONSIDER A MUDROOM If your basement has a doorway to the outside, people and pets may feel free to drag in mud and muck. Install a dedicated mudroom area, with flooring that is easily cleaned, such as ceramic or vinyl tiles. Position a bench and a place—perhaps just an empty space below the bench—that is clearly designed for stowing soiled boots and shoes. Equipping a basement bath with a spa tub—even a small one like this—makes it a soothing refuge from your worries and cares. A space-saving vanity sink hugs the wall, and a slender storage unit has both open and doored shelving. Even if only the upper foot or so of your walls are above grade, you can take advantage and install slit windows that let in welcome sunlight. BATHROOMS 17 REMODELING OPTIONS >> UTILITY ROOMS KITCHENS A marble countertop surrounds a farmhouse sink; a faucet with an old-fashioned look and painted cabinets contribute to the charming cottage style. An island that doubles as an eating table with stools is an efficient use of space and brings the cook and noshers close together. Light-colored granite countertops wipe clean in a flash and nicely reflect the pleasant lighting. U nless you are making a full-fledged apartment in your basement, the kitchen area is likely to be modest, perhaps more of a "kitchenette." You'll want the basics—sink, base and wall cabinets or open shelves, countertop, refrigerator, garbage and recycling bins, and microwave—and possibly a stovetop, or a range and range hood with vent fan. There should be plenty of lighting as well as electrical receptacles that are ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) protected. But things can be smaller; for instance, 8 ft. of countertop space may be enough, and even a little bar sink may be all you really need. If you go with a dishwasher, a narrow 24-in.-wide model could be a good choice; a smaller 28-in.-wide refrigerator may also provide entirely enough space. An advantage of going small is that you may be able to afford more luxurious surfaces, like granite countertops, hardwood cabinetry, and nice tile flooring. Choose surfaces that are easy to keep clean. 18 KITCHENS UTILITY ROOMS >> REMODELING OPTIONS BARS AND WINE CELLARS B asements can be great entertaining spaces, so whether you lean toward fine wines or mixed drinks, you can create a place where it's easy and fun to make your favorite libations. You'll want the area to be virtually dust free, so your bottles and glasses can stay sparkling with only occasional cleaning. Lighting should be on dimmer switches, so you can adjust the mood to suit the occasion. This wine "cellar" keeps reds at a perfect 63°F and places them on well-lit display as well. This elegant basement bar is sure to be a popular gathering spot. The open layout encourages mingling both at and around the bar seating area. A bar-level countertop with bar stools faces a small kitchen and drink-mixing area. Chairs with high backs encourage guests to linger. BARS AND WINE CELLARS 19 REMODELING OPTIONS >> UTILITY ROOMS LAUNDRIES Y our typical basement laundry room is a pretty desultory affair, with plain concrete or dingy tiled floors, a washer and dryer, a plastic or old concrete utility sink, and perhaps a table or small countertop. Upgrading the laundry room can really change your attitude toward this inescapable chore. Provide a large easy-to-clean folding countertop or table, so you can easily organize and neatly stack clothing after folding. If you have space, install a nice long hanging rod or two, and drawers or shelves to store cleaning supplies. You will still need the basics, though: The dryer needs to vent to the outside. The washer should have easy-to-reach supply valves, and its drain hose should be firmly attached to a sink or a drain line. Both should be easy to pull out for servicing, and both need to plug into the correct receptacles. Provide a sink that is easy and even pleasant to use, for hand washing and general cleanup. The floor should be impervious to water, and there should be a nearby floor drain, in case of overflows. And as is so often the case in a laundry space, the more storage drawers and shelves, the better. Common in basements is a combination bathroom and laundry. Not only does this speak to the more casual nature of a basement, but all plumbing supplies run to the same area. You can forego a utility sink if this is the case. A largish powder room can also house laundry facilities. Space and storage options are welcome in a laundry room. 20 LAUNDRIES UTILITY ROOMS >> REMODELING OPTIONS Crisp tones of black and tan lend a formal feel. Lots of storage, including a built-in area for hanging clothes straight out of the dryer, keeps clutter to a minimum. Because space is limited, there is no place to add counters for folding clothes. However, the washer and dryer tuck neatly behind doors. LAUNDRIES 21 THE GRITTY REALITY Y OU MAY BE TEMPTED TO SKIP RIGHT to planning your new basement, but many homeowners have suffered greatly for neglecting the nonglamorous issues. Whether you are doing work yourself or hiring a pro, you or your contractor must make sure your basement is really ready for a remodel. There are reasons most basements were originally built with exposed masonry walls, UNDERSTANDING YOUR BASEMENT Anatomy of a Basement, p. 24 Wall and Footing Materials, p. 25 22 floors, pipes, ducts, and large appliances. Basements can develop a number of problems, and covering things up with a remodel can hide these problems—and then create worse problems as hidden issues quietly grow into a serious situation. So carefully inspect and solve any gritty problems first. It's only prudent. KEEPING OUT MOISTURE Make It Dry, p. 27 Testing for Moisture, p. 28 Redirecting Rainwater, p. 29 Installing a Sump Pump and Drain, p. 31 Other Interior Drain Solutions, p. 34 Sealing from the Outside, p. 38 Windows, p. 39 STRUCTURAL PROBLEMS AND SOLUTIONS Spotting Problems, p. 41 Solving Problems, p. 44 Posts and Beams, p. 48 Sealing Ducts and Pipes, p. 51 Upgrading Major Appliances, p. 52 Lowering a Basement Floor, p. 54 Pests, p. 55 Radiant Floor Heat, p. 56 23 THE GRITTY REALITY >> UNDERSTANDING YOUR BASEMENT ANATOMY OF A BASEMENT T o ensure that your basement will be secure and dry, start by gaining an understanding of how it was constructed. The drawing below shows a fairly typical construction for a basement, plus framing for the floor above. Poured concrete walls (or walls made of block or stone), which are often 8 in. or 10 in. thick, rest on concrete footings that are often 10 in. thick and reinforced with steel. A poured concrete floor is often 3 in. or 4 in. thick and reinforced with metal. If the concrete walls, footings, or floor are not strong enough, or if they rest on soil that is not firm, then walls and floors can sag. Here drainpipe (often referred to as "drain tile") runs around the exterior of the house at the bottom of the wall. The pipe is encased in gravel, so seeping water can easily enter the drainpipe and flow away from the basement. If a basement does not have this drainpipe, it should have tile running under the basement floor on the inside. The tile should run into a sump pump, as shown on pp. 31–32. In this example, there is a massive beam running through the center of the basement ceiling, to support the joists (which are ceiling joists for the basement and floor joists for the first floor). The beam is supported with large posts, which rest on deep concrete footings. This beam is often needed if the width of the basement is too long for joists to span and remain strong. However, if the basement is not very wide, or if engineered joists are used, then the beam may not be needed. During a remodel, the posts are often removed. In order to do this, the wooden beam is replaced with a very strong steel I-beam, which can span very long distances. A "bearing" wall can take the place of a massive beam but will limit floor-plan options. A "curtain" wall is not needed for support and can be removed. The joists (which again serve as floor joists for the first floor and ceiling joists for the basement) rest on a sill, which rests on top of the basement wall. This sill should be made of pressure-treated or other rotresistant lumber. The rim joist, which rests on the sill and runs around the room, should be carefully protected from moisture with building paper and siding. In this example, one side of the basement has outside soil grade near the height of the basement wall. The other side is a walk-out basement, with the outside grade at floor level. Many basements have walls that rise above grade by a couple of feet or more. In that case, windows can allow light in, and the basement is said to be at "garden" level. BASEMENT ANATOMY Most basements have masonry walls (concrete, block, stone, or brick), with wood structures attached, to support upper floors. An older basement likely has a center beam, while newer homes have none. Rim joist Concrete wall Sill Joists Beam Door header Soil Post Drainpipe Gravel under footing and floor Concrete floor, typically 3 in. to 4 in. thick Soil Footing 24 ANATOMY OF A BASEMENT UNDERSTANDING YOUR BASEMENT >> THE GRITTY REALITY WALL AND FOOTING MATERIALS M ost basements built after World War II have walls made of poured concrete or concrete block. Basement walls in older homes may be stone, at least at their bottom 4 ft. or so, and perhaps brick or block atop the stone. were backfilled with soil, the walls should successfully resist water infiltration, unless hydrostatic pressure is very strong (see p. 28). However, some concrete walls were poured or reinforced incorrectly, and this can lead to moisture and structural problems, as the following pages show. Poured concrete Poured concrete walls usually present a fairly monolithic surface. At their bottoms they rest on a poured concrete footing, which is typically 4 in. or so thicker than the walls. If they were poured correctly, with metal reinforcing bar (called rebar in the trades), concrete walls will be very strong. And if a solid waterproof coating was applied to the outside of the walls before they See Structural Problems and Solutions, pp. 41–55. Concrete block Often referred to as "cinder blocks," structural blocks are actually made of concrete poured into molds. They are typically 8 in. wide by 16 in. long, with open spaces called "cells" inside. The blocks are BLOCK WALLS Open cells Ladder-type mesh reinforcement stacked on top of each other in a running bond pattern (which means each block rests on two blocks below, rather than just being stacked in vertical rows). Block basement walls usually rest on a poured concrete footing. For strength, the walls should be reinforced in three ways, as shown in the drawing: with horizontal ladder-type reinforcing mesh every two or three courses; by filling at least some of the cells with grout (which is actually a type of concrete); and with vertical rebar embedded in the grout fill every other block or so. Unfortunately, not all block walls are created equal, and some lack sufficient reinforcement—making them susceptible to cracks that need to be sealed and perhaps repaired as well. >> >> >> COLD SEALS Mortar joints If concrete walls were only partially poured on one day and finished the next, there will be a "cold seal" where the second pour rests on top of the first pour; this is typically a horizontal line running all along the wall. Because new concrete does not bond well with hardened concrete, this line can be a source of leaks, unless it is well sealed from the outside. Rebar Cells filled with grout Concrete footing WALL AND FOOTING MATERIALS 25 THE GRITTY REALITY >> UNDERSTANDING YOUR BASEMENT WALL AND FOOTING MATERIALS (CONTINUED) Stone walls Many older homes have a foundation and a lower wall made of natural stone assembled with mortar joints. Many of these walls remain strong and level for centuries because of their massive size (often 2 ft. thick), the durability of boulders, and the old-world skills used in their construction. Often, a brick wall is installed on top of the stone wall. These walls were likely installed in the days when people didn't think of living in their basements, and so they may not be very waterproof. Some can stay surprisingly dry, but inspect yours carefully after a heavy rainfall for any signs of moisture. If moisture is a problem, consider having the outside of the wall waterproofed. In this older home, mortared stones were used to make a footing and about 3 vertical feet of wall. If your house has a wall like this and the mortar between the stones is eroding, the wall has likely been exposed to moisture. BRICKS IN INTERLOCKING PATTERN Most brick homes built before World War II were constructed so that the bricks actually form the structure of the house. (Most brick homes built more recently use brick only as a veneer; the foundation and basement walls are most likely poured concrete, and the house's structure is made of wood.) Usually, the basement wall is three wythes, or thicknesses, of brick. There is typically little if any metal reinforcement. Instead, the bricks are laid in an interlock- ing pattern. The brick wall shown here, which rests on a stone foundation, was built in 1882. Its walls are almost perfectly plumb, and it is, overall, no more than 1⁄4 in. out of level. Bonding bricks This common-brick wall has joints with extra mortar for added protection. Three wythes 26 WALL AND FOOTING MATERIALS KEEPING OUT MOISTURE >> THE GRITTY REALITY MAKE IT DRY I Basement Repair Companies In many areas there t's a common story: Homeowners want to increase their living space, and so install finished walls, ceilings, and flooring in their basement. A few years down the line, they find that moisture has infiltrated their newly installed framing and surfaces, and they have to tear it all up and fix the problems in order to abate smelly and unhealthy mold and mildew. The moisture may come in the form of a flooded floor during a "hundred-year" storm. Or it may slowly accumulate due to slight but ever-present condensation that you may not even notice. are companies that specialize in repairing and sealing basements. Check out these companies carefully, and choose one that has a proven track record of satisfying customers and keeping basements dry. They will likely have solutions that work well in your climate and with your soil conditions. (In Chicago, where I live, I rely on the Perma-Seal company for advice and information.) How dry is dry enough? Ideally, basement walls and floors should be bone dry, even during rainstorms. However, it is possible—and certainly advisable, even if you think your basement is very dry—to build walls and floors in such a way that small amounts of moisture can seep away so that basement walls can dry out. Pages 34–35 show some methods. If your block, stone, or brick walls are leaking severely, however, chances are good that interior repairs will not solve the problem. Though it's a drastic fix, you're probably better off sealing from the outside, as shown on p. 38. >> >> >> WHERE WATER CAN ENTER Water can seep into a basement via a number of pathways, as shown here. Window wells need to be well sealed and also have a clear drain at their bottoms. Cracks in a concrete wall or masonry joints will of course allow water in. Wherever pipes poke through from the outside, the area around the pipes must be well sealed. A malfunctioning sump pump will fail to eject the water that collects in its well, and during a heavy rain, a flooded floor may result. Floor drains may need to be rodded, so that water cannot back up through them into the basement. And the cove joint, where the wall meets the floor, is sometimes a trouble spot. All these potential problems are addressed in the following pages. Window well Grading problems Masonry foundation leaks Pipe penetration Foundation wall crack Porous concrete Cove joint Sump pump Floor crack Cove joint Floor drain MAKE IT DRY 27 THE GRITTY REALITY >> KEEPING OUT MOISTURE MAKE IT DRY (CONTINUED) Hydrostatic pressure: a powerful enemy Water in the soil can become surprisingly powerful. It exerts "hydrostatic pressure" that forces water through cracks, small openings, and even porous materials. This not only makes a basement moist or wet, but it also can cause structural damage, as well as mold and decay. Water often seeps down to the footing and even under the floor, where it can create a good deal of havoc. In most cases, you can relieve the pressure by directing rainwater away from the house. Cove seepage One of the most common leak spots is at the cove—the joint where the wall rests on top of the footing. Because the footing is dried when the walls are poured, the seal between them is "cold," and adhesion is not very good. If the joint is not well sealed from the outside, water can seep in when hydraulic pressure builds up. The cove joint, where the wall meets the floor, is a common trouble spot where water can infiltrate. TESTING FOR MOISTURE M asonry walls and floors may be generating moisture in ways you do not see or even feel. The wetness may be so slight that it evaporates before it becomes visible. However, if you cover these slightly moist surfaces with walls or flooring, the moisture will not have a good chance to evaporate, and can build up, leading to mold, rot, and other problems. 1 28 Firmly tape a piece of foil or plastic to the wall you are testing. TESTING FOR MOISTURE You can easily test for moisture: During the wet season, or shortly after a heavy rainfall, tape a small sheet of plastic or aluminum foil to the wall or floor. Attach with duct tape, pressing firmly to be sure it is tightly sealed ❶. Wait four or five days. If the outside of the sheet becomes moist then your basement air is very humid; it's a good idea to install a dehumidifier. But if you see wetness when 2 After four or five days, pull back the foil or plastic to see if the wall is wet. you pull the sheet off the wall or the floor, then moisture is seeping in from the outside ❷, ❸. In that case, take some of the steps shown on the following pages, then retest. 3 Perform the same test on the floor. KEEPING OUT MOISTURE >> THE GRITTY REALITY REDIRECTING RAINWATER I n many cases, simple measures taken outside the house will solve basement water problems. The principle is simple: If rainwater runs off your roof onto the ground near your basement, it can seep down and cause problems. So take steps to direct the water well away from the house. The lawn or masonry surface that abuts your house should slope away, so water cannot easily soak into the soil and filter down next to your basement. If the area is level or sloped toward the house, do some excavating so that the soil slopes down at a rate of at least 1⁄4 in. per running feet. Also check your home's soil conditions. If the ground is sandy, then water seeps into it easily; if it is clayey, then the seepage is far less. If you have ground cover, such as gravel or mulch, it's a good idea to scrape it away, lay plastic sheeting or landscaping fabric, and then replace the covering. Consider planting bushes, which can drink up plenty of water. The solution may be as simple as extending your downspouts. Splash blocks, made of concrete or plastic, extend out about 2 ft., which may be enough if the area around the foundation is sloped so that rain runs away from the house. Often a better solution is to attach a downspout extension that directs water away from the house 6 ft. or more. An extension may be a flexible line made for the purpose. Or, you can simply attach a section of solid downspout. Here you can see two problems: First, the soil does not slope away from the house, so rainwater can easily seep down against the basement wall. (Mulch placed over the soil does not solve this problem.) Second, a disintegrating patio captures rainwater, making it even more likely that it will flow down to the basement wall. DIAGNOSING RAINWATER PROBLEMS One of the best ways to diagnose rainwater problems is to go outside during—or immediately after—a heavy rain. Look at the area around the house to see if water puddles or collects anywhere within 5 ft. Check whether all the water is going into the downspouts (and not spilling out of the gutters) and whether the downspouts are intact (and not leaking). >> >> >> Some Just Have to Live with Water Problems In some areas, basement flooding may be inevitable, perhaps every 50 years or maybe every few years. This can be the case in areas with heavy rainfalls or high water tables. Or, maybe your municipal sewer system cannot handle large rainfalls. A reliable sump pump may be your only line of defense here, but if flooding is severe, even that may not prevent floors and walls from getting soaked (especially if water occasionally wells up out of floor drains). Check with your building department, as well as with neighbors who have lived in the area for a long time, to learn if you should plan on occasional flooding. If you cannot guarantee a dry basement for the next quarter century or so, there still are remodeling options, though they are limited. Consider acid staining the floor, or applying a garage-type finish, rubber flooring, ceramic or resilient tiles, or sheet goods. You could simply paint the floor or leave it a "natural" gray and cover most of it with an area rug. REDIRECTING RAINWATER 29 THE GRITTY REALITY >> KEEPING OUT MOISTURE REDIRECTING RAINWATER (CONTINUED) If you have a grade problem that is not easily solved by excavating the surface, or if you don't like the look of a gutter extension, consider installing a dry well. This carries water away from the house via an underground perforated pipe. At the bottom of the downspout, install two elbows so the water comes out a foot or so from the house and about 6 in. above grade. Dig a trench about a foot wide and a foot deep leading to a hole where you want the water to percolate. The trench should slope at least 1⁄4 in. per running foot. At the end of the trench, dig a hole and set in a perforated basin designed for use with a sump pump (see p. 31), or a garbage pan drilled with a series of 1⁄ 2 -in. holes. The top of the basin should be about 3 in. below grade. Fill the basin with large stones, and surround it with gravel; this is your dry well. Lay landscaping fabric in the trench, and partially fill with gravel. Set a grated catch basin directly under the downspout. Attach and run perforated drainpipe from the catch basin to the dry well. Add more gravel above the drainpipe, and cover the basin with a lid. Cover the gravel in the trench with landscaping fabric, then add soil and sod or plantings. LET IT BLEND Downspout extensions, while necessary, can be unsightly. They are available in many shapes and sizes, and there are also color options. Choose one that will blend with the siding or trim on your house to help the downspout blend in. ! WARNING If you have a sprinkler system, be sure it does not spray excessive water near the house. Adjust the head(s) to spray at least 2 ft. from the foundation. DRY WELL Gutter downspout Grade Landscaping fabric Perforated sump pump basin filled with rocks Grated catch basin Perforated drainpipe set in a gravel bed 30 REDIRECTING RAINWATER KEEPING OUT MOISTURE >> THE GRITTY REALITY INSTALLING A SUMP PUMP AND DRAIN A sump pump siphons groundwater from beneath a basement floor and expels it, either to the outside or into a drainpipe (also called "drain tile"). A properly installed and maintained sump pump can eliminate hydrostatic pressure and keep a basement surprisingly dry. It may not solve a problem of slight moisture coming through walls, but it will keep a basement from getting positively wet. Sump pumps reside in special basins (also called liners), which are basically very large plastic buckets. There are two types of sump pump and basin installations. The most effective calls for drain tile (which in an old home may actually be made of clay, but is more often a perforated drainpipe) that runs all around the basement's perimeter. (The drain tile must be embedded in gravel, so its perforations do not get clogged with mud. This arrangement is often called a "French drain.") Groundwater enters the tile at any point around the basement, and the tile carries it to the sump pump basin, where the pump expels it. In a second type of installation, there is no drain tile. Instead, the basin has a series of holes or perforations. Groundwater slowly makes its way into the basin, and when the water reaches a certain level it raises a float, which turns on a switch so the pump expels it. It should be emphasized that this arrangement works only for a small area of the basement; to expel water from the entire basement with this kind of installation would require a number of basins and sump pumps. The pumps shown are submersible, but "pedestal" pumps are installed onto the pipe above the floor. Where does the water go? It may be simply shot out of a pipe that exits the house. Or it may run into a dry well in the yard. Or, it could go to the house's main drain or to the municipal sewer system. >> >> >> A basin is buried in the basement floor, with its top just above the floor level. Here, drain tile runs into the basin. This submersible pump is attached to a check valve (just below the rubber fitting), which keeps water from backing up into your home. A discharge pipe rises out of the pump. The pump gets plugged into a standard 120-volt electrical receptacle. Here the check valve is installed in the discharge pipe. In a "pedestal" arrangement, the pump is also on the pipe. The sump pump's drainpipe runs outdoors. In this installation, the sump pump's drainpipe runs into the house's drainpipe. INSTALLING A SUMP PUMP AND DRAIN 31 THE GRITTY REALITY >> KEEPING OUT MOISTURE INSTALLING A SUMP PUMP AND DRAIN (CONTINUED) Sump pump tips Installing a new sump pump where there was none before is a major undertaking that is probably best left to pros, especially if you want to run new drain tile around your basement floor. But maintenance is necessary and well within your reach. • If you have an existing basin, replacing a pump is a straightforward task. If the pump is not doing its job, or if it runs constantly, try installing a more powerful one. A halfhorsepower model will handle most any situation. • If the pump shunts water out onto your yard only a short distance from your house, it can easily seep back toward your basement. Extend the pipe farther away from the house to better keep your basement dry. • M any inexpensive sump pumps have a "tethered" float switch that sometimes sticks, so the pump does not come on when needed. For peace of mind, spend more for a high-quality pump with a multiyear guarantee. • If your sump pump's pit is uncovered, it is both an eyesore and a danger to children and pets. If possible, buy a cover. Or, you may need to install a new basin that comes with a cover. • It's not uncommon for nasty weather to be accompanied by power outages. Install a reliable battery backup for your sump pump, so it can operate at any time. TWO SUMP PUMP SETUPS If drain tile runs under the basement floor around its perimeter, it should empty into a solid basin, where a sump pump can force it out. If there is no drain tile, groundwater can slowly seep into a perforated basin, where the sump pump does the same thing. WITH DRAINAGE PIPE Liner lid Check valve WITH PERFORATED LINER Power cord Drainage pipe Gravel Standpipe 32 Liner lid Standpipe Float switch Check valve Sump pump Sump pump INSTALLING A SUMP PUMP AND DRAIN Float switch KEEPING OUT MOISTURE >> THE GRITTY REALITY Be Sure the Drains Will Drain Here's a real heartbreaker: Despite all your efforts to keep a basement dry, during a storm your sewers back up, sending water (and sometimes worse) up through your floor drains. In some cases, it's your municipal water supplier's fault, but sometimes the problem is on your end. In most homes, all the drain lines in the house lead to the main drain, which likely runs under your basement floor, and from there to the municipal sewer system. (In some locales, sewage water and storm water are on separate systems; in other places, the two are tied together in various ways.) If your municipal system is insufficient—if there is a history of backups in your area that affect multiple homes—then there's not a lot you can do about it; remodel with the expectation that occasional basement flooding will occur. But also make sure that your drainpipes are clear. To do this, you could rent a large auger and rod it yourself, but it's safer to call in a plumber or a rodding service. Nowadays, these companies not only have powerful augurs to remove obstacles, but they also have cameras that allow them to actually see the insides of the drainpipes. And they can certify that your drains are clear, so you may be able to be compensated by your municipality if backups occur. If backups are a problem in your area, have your pipes inspected every three years or so. An older home may have pipes actually made of clay, which tree roots can poke into and even crack. If at all possible, have clay pipe replaced with PVC. Of course, this involves a lot of expensive digging and excavating. Depending on local conditions, your municipality may or may not pay for this. Also consider having a backflow preventer installed onto your drain system. This makes it impossible for water to back up into the house. However, these devices are not allowed in some locales. Keep floor drains uncovered, and sweep the area regularly, so they can efficiently get rid of water in case of a flood. INSTALLING A SUMP PUMP AND DRAIN 33 THE GRITTY REALITY >> KEEPING OUT MOISTURE OTHER INTERIOR DRAIN SOLUTIONS T here may be other drain solutions short of installing a new sump pump. These may be supplied by local companies familiar with your conditions. Large interior drain line If you have a nearby large drain line that leads to your municipality's sewage or storm drain system (in some cases, they are the same system, or are tied together), drain tile can simply lead to this drain instead of to a sump pump. This is a simpler arrangement. It's important to install cleanouts so you can easily clear these lines if they get clogged. It's also important that the drain tile be sloped toward the main drain. DryTrak® A system like the DryTrak water drainage system works well when the main problem is leakage from the cove joint—where the concrete wall meets the footing. It is installed on top of the floor, so there is no need to break out concrete and dig a trench. Leaking water is collected and directed to an existing sump pump or to a floor drain. See "Two Sump Pump Setups," p. 32. TRADE SECRET If water is seeping up through the floor, the solution is either to install drain tile and a sump pump on the inside of the basement (pp. 31–32) or on the outside, as shown on p. 38. WaterGuard® A plastic drain strip like this runs around the perimeter of the basement and sends water to a sump pump like standard drain tile. But there is no need to dig a deep trench in the soil to install a WaterGuard drainage channel. It sits on top of the footing, where it can gather water coming from cove seepage, as well as from any moisture dripping down the wall. Because there is no dirt around it, there is no chance that it will clog. The DryTrak system needs to be installed by a certified installer, but requires no jack hammering of concrete. The WaterGuard drainage channel has a wall flange with spacers for collecting wall seepage, channel holes that allow ground water to enter the drain line, and a large-diameter channel that won't crush. Tying drain tile to the drainpipe that flows to your municipality's sewage system is a simple arrangement. 34 OTHER INTERIOR DRAIN SOLUTIONS KEEPING OUT MOISTURE >> THE GRITTY REALITY Interior wall solutions EverLast™ Wall System The best solutions for sealing basement walls against leakage are done on the outside of the house, or by installing a sump pump. As can be seen on pp. 31–32 and p. 38, these methods involve serious excavating and can be quite expensive. Fortunately, if your problems are not severe, you may be able to solve them from the inside, without lots of digging. Let's be clear: A repair made on the inside of the basement wall cannot resist built-up hydrostatic pressure; other steps must be taken for that. And if moisture is constantly seeping into your masonry walls, sealing from the inside alone will mean that your walls stay wet on the inside for long periods, which will damage them in time. So the repairs shown here are suitable where only moderate wetness problems occur from time to time. Often only the bottom third or so of walls is subject to moisture damage. With the EverLast Wall Panels, the lower wood studs have been removed and replaced with metal studs, and the drywall has been replaced with waterproof vinyl panels. Behind the vinyl panels, water is directed down into drain tile in the floor, which carries it to a sump pump. CleanSpace® CleanSpace liners can be installed with screw fasteners. They direct water into a drainage system in the floor rather than simply sealing the wall (so that the masonry walls do not stay wet for long periods, which can damage them). The liners are completely waterproof and do not have any organic matter, so mold cannot grow. >> >> >> KEEPING THE AIR DRY If your basement tends to be humid, a plug-in dehumidifier can help. A serious unit like this not only effectively keeps humidity below 50%, but it also has a two-stage air filter to keep the air clean and healthy to breathe. The CleanSpace liner is installed over the walls and floor to create a continuous moisture barrier. AVOID PAINT-ON PRODUCTS Many stores sell products that are advertised to keep basement walls dry after you simply paint them on. I do not recommend these, especially if you will cover up the walls with framing and drywall. They often do not keep out the moisture, at least not everywhere. And even if they do work, they can cause the walls to stay wet, which can damage them. The SaniDry™ basement air system is humidifier and air filter in one. OTHER INTERIOR DRAIN SOLUTIONS 35 THE GRITTY REALITY >> KEEPING OUT MOISTURE OTHER INTERIOR DRAIN SOLUTIONS (CONTINUED) Sealing cracks with epoxy injection If walls leak only in certain discrete places and only during or soon after a rain, a leak may need to be repaired. Again, this is best done from the outside, but that is a major project (see p. 38). Cracks can be sealed from the inside with good success. An effective repair can strengthen the wall and ensure that the crack does not grow wider. Epoxy repair materials are available with kits that include the injector ports, two-part epoxy paste, and the two-part epoxy liquid in a caulk tube. Different manufacturers have slightly different methods, but in general you will first clean the crack and "cap" it with epoxy paste, and then inject liquid epoxy to fill the crack. There is no need to chisel out the crack. Clean the crack and the surrounding area with a wire brush or a wire-brush drill attachment. Pry out any loose debris and remove any concrete crumbs ❶. Every 8 in. to 10 in. along the crack, drill a hole of the size recommended by the patch manufacturer. Insert an injector to be sure it will seat all the way against the wall ❷. Mix the two-part epoxy paste until it achieves a uniform gray color ❸. When removing each part from the containers, take care to use one of the mixing sticks for each of the parts: If you get a small amount of one part in the container with the other part, you could ruin it for future use. Carefully twirl an injector port's flange in the epoxy, taking care not to get any into the hole, and press an injector into each of the holes you drilled in step 2 ❹. Slather the epoxy all along the crack, pressing it gently into the crack. Avoid getting epoxy in the port holes ❺. Allow the sealer to cure; curing time varies depending on humidity, but 12 to 24 hours is common. Remove a cap and insert a plunger into the caulk tube that contains two-part liquid epoxy. Move the plunger up and down 20 times or so to 36 OTHER INTERIOR DRAIN SOLUTIONS 1 Clean the crack thoroughly with a wire brush. Pry out any loose material. 6 Once the epoxy paste is hard, use the plunger to mix the two-part liquid epoxy. completely mix the two parts ❻. Remove the plunger and screw on a nozzle; now you can put the container into a caulk gun. Insert the tip of the nozzle into the lowest port hole, and start squirting the liquid ❼. Keep squirting until liquid starts to seep out the port above. Then insert the cap into the hole of the bottom port and start squirting 2 Drill holes every 8 in. to 10 in., and test that the injector will seat against the wall. 7 Squirt liquid epoxy into the bottom port. into the next-highest one ❽. Repeat until you get to the top. When liquid starts to seep out the top of the crack, you are done ❾. You can now snip off the port caps and smooth over the entire crack with additional paste ❿. KEEPING OUT MOISTURE >> THE GRITTY REALITY 3 8 Mix a batch of two-part epoxy. Once liquid starts to flow out the nexthighest port, cap the bottom port and squirt into the next-highest one. 4 Apply a small amount of epoxy to an injector port's flange, and press into place. 5 9 Repeat until liquid seeps out the top of the crack. 10 Apply epoxy all along the crack. Snip off the port caps and smooth over the entire crack with additional paste. Don't Use Hydraulic Cement In the past, hydraulic cement has often been used to repair basement wall cracks. However, this repair often lasts only a few years and then starts leaking again, because it cannot stop the wall from moving. The epoxy injection method shown above is far superior and is definitely recommended, especially if you will cover up the concrete wall. OTHER INTERIOR DRAIN SOLUTIONS 37 THE GRITTY REALITY >> KEEPING OUT MOISTURE SEALING FROM THE OUTSIDE W here walls leak profusely, fixing from the inside may not do the job. In that case, the solution is to dig a trench around the basement to expose the outside walls and the footing. A trench is filled with perforated drainpipe and gravel, to get rid of water. Then the walls are coated with a watertight sealer. In days gone by, a single viscous sealer was applied with a roller or a spray gun. For a more sure solution, sealer is applied, then a membrane is applied over the sealer. Unless you have excavating equipment and some experience, this is not a do-it-yourself project; you should hire professionals. Do your homework and hire a company with plenty of satisfied customers. First, the footing and walls are cleaned with a pressure washer. Any cracks are repaired with epoxy. Then a special heavy-duty waterproofing membrane is installed, such as rigid insulation board; often a tarlike waterproofing is applied first. Rigid insulation may be applied over the membrane. Gravel is laid, and a drainpipe is set in the gravel, sloped toward a dry well, a municipal drainpipe, or a sump pump. More gravel is poured and landscaping fabric is placed on top, so the drainpipe will not get clogged. Then the trench can be backfilled with soil. The grade is sloped away from the house. Rigid insulation is fairly expensive, but will ensure against condensation inside the basement and will cut down on heating costs as well. If you are going to the trouble of digging a trench down below the top of the footing, the fix should be done right. 38 SEALING FROM THE OUTSIDE KEEPING OUT MOISTURE >> THE GRITTY REALITY WINDOWS B asement windows often get and stay moist for long periods, and so rot faster than upstairs windows, especially if they are at or below ground level. Also, they are prime entryways for intruders, so they often need to be made secure. If your basement has simple sash, slider, or casement windows, checking for rot and replacing them may be no different from what you would do for upstairs windows. On both the outside and inside, poke wood parts with a slot screwdriver; if it feels soft and spongy, you've got some rot. Rot that is only 1⁄ 2 in. deep or so can usually be repaired with epoxy wood filler and repainted. If the rot goes deeper, consider replacing the window and its frame. Consider rot-resistant vinyl windows, or glass block. Basement windows are often low quality and not well insulated. Since you will be living in your future remodeled basement, you may want to add a storm window to existing windows, or replace them altogether with ones that have thermal glass. Also be sure to caulk around the window frame, and check that the seals are tight when you close the window; you may be able to fix a leaky window with weatherstripping. You may want to replace a standard sash, slider, or casement window with another type that is suited to your needs. Some local codes demand that if you are using your basement as a living space, you must have an "egress" window, also called an escape window. These are designed to be easily opened, are large enough for a person to fit through, and may have a built-in set of steps. If your basement walls are only partially below grade, you may be able to simply install a window above grade. Otherwise, you will need to excavate and install a large window, as shown on p. 40. >> >> >> A window like this shows signs of rot and needs to be sealed with caulking; it also has only single-pane glass and so will let in the cold in winter and heat in summer. Replacement is the best option. An egress window is installed in any sleeping room so that occupants can exit in case of an emergency. Check your local building codes for specifications. Glass block is an old-style solution that still makes sense in some situations. Glass block is a good deal more difficult to break into than a standard glass window pane. (It's actually not as solid as it looks, but the looks alone can deter intruders.) And the block lets in light, but outsiders cannot actually see inside. WINDOWS 39 THE GRITTY REALITY >> KEEPING OUT MOISTURE WINDOWS (CONTINUED) The drainpipe's grate is placed at a low spot at the bottom of the window well. The grate, and the surrounding gravel, should be a couple of inches below the masonry window opening. It's important to keep the grate clear of leaves and other debris that could clog it. This window has a rusty metal frame, which can be repaired by painting with rusty metal primer, then a finish coat. The area around the frame has been filled with caulk and covered with waterproofing fabric. A gap at the bottom has been filled with mortar. WINDOW WELLS WINDOW WELL WITH DRAINAGE An effective window well directs water away from the window to a drain system that directs it away from the house. Things to check for: • The window well itself—typically a large, metal half-cylinder that is wider than the window—should be in sound condition and should be well sealed against the house. • The well should retain its part-circular shape. If soil has pressed against it and deformed its shape, the area should be excavated and a new well installed. • Water should flow easily through the well. The best method is to have both a gravel bed and a drainpipe embedded in it. The drainpipe's top should have a grate that is free from obstructions like leaves. • Children and animals should be kept away from a well. It may help to install a cover. To ensure that water does not puddle in a window well, a drain is positioned in a gravel bed at the bottom. Water drains down through the pipe, which may lead to a dry well away from the house (see p. 30), or to a gravel-filled trench with a drainpipe, as shown here. Grade Window Drain cover Gravel 3-in. PVC pipe PVC pipe 40 WINDOWS STRUCTURAL PROBLEMS AND SOLUTIONS >> THE GRITTY REALITY SPOTTING PROBLEMS A newer basement may have walls and ceilings that are solid and secure. Older basements often have problems that must be attended to. In some cases, the fixes are fairly quick and easy; in other cases, serious surgery is called for, which can be performed only by professionals. Problems with basement walls and floors— often called a house's foundation—are visible not only in the basement itself but also on upper floors, as shown in the drawing on p. 43. When these problems manifest themselves, you should take steps to fix them in a timely manner, or they can get worse and damage the rest of your home. They certainly should be repaired and shored up before attempting any basement remodeling—which can often cover up the problem, so it grows worse when out of sight. In general, look for cracks that are wider than 1⁄4 in. or that are offset. Also see if your walls or floors are uneven. The drawing shows other signs of structural problems. If a chimney leans so it pulls away from the house at the top, the problem may simply be with the chimney. Or, it could be that the foundation it rests on is sinking or leaning. This can lead to damage to your house's siding, and even its structure. If brick, stone, or block shows signs of surface deterioration, the problem is very possibly only skin deep. As long as the wall as a whole is plumb and free of bulges or indentations and the floor above is not sinking, damage like this can be fixed by filling in with mortar. >> >> >> WHAT CAN GO WRONG If a floor has a crack wider than 1⁄4 in., or if it is uneven so that one area is more than 1⁄ 2 in. higher or lower than an area less than 8 ft. away, the basement floor is likely in trouble. However, unless the floor is separating from the wall, the problem can often be solved by reinforcing the floor, perhaps by adding another layer of concrete. Or, you may need to break out the old concrete and pour a new floor. If cracks in a basement wall are uneven or offset, like those shown here, there could well be a problem with the underlying concrete or stone footing. This problem will not fix itself and is likely to get worse. Have it looked at by a professional. SPOTTING PROBLEMS 41 THE GRITTY REALITY >> STRUCTURAL PROBLEMS AND SOLUTIONS SPOTTING PROBLEMS (CONTINUED) Crumbling and falling ceilings Older basements with lath-and-plaster ceilings often end up looking something like the photo at right. If the damage is not severe, you may be able to "skin over" the ceiling by attaching sheets of drywall that hold the old material in place. However, if it looks like this or worse, you should remove the plaster and the lath—an extremely messy process, so wear a respirator and ventilate the basement with outward-pointed fans as you work. Old plaster often fails in a basement. Depending on the amount of damage, you may repair, replace, or cover over it. Bowed walls are a sure sign of trouble. Hold a 6-ft. or 8-ft. level against the walls at a number of places. The walls should be reasonably plumb (though they do not have to be perfect), and they should be straight. If you see a bulge, or if a wall is out of plumb by more than half the level's bubble, call in a basement expert for assessment. 42 SPOTTING PROBLEMS If you see gaps under baseboards—either in the basement or on the first floor—that means the floors are sinking, which most likely means that the house's footing is sinking. If the gap is more than an inch, the problem could be serious, and you should have the house's footings inspected. STRUCTURAL PROBLEMS AND SOLUTIONS >> THE GRITTY REALITY If cracks like this near a window develop on the first or second floor of the house, have the foundation inspected. This is often a sign of a sinking footing. If windows or doors in the basement or on the floor above are noticeably out of square, they will not close properly. The problem could be that the house's foundation is sinking in some places. You could reinstall the windows or doors, using shims to keep them square, but the underlying problem may remain and get worse. The foundation likely needs to be fixed. BASEMENT STRUCTURAL PROBLEMS Many times cracks occur for superficial reasons, but if walls or floors are bowed or uneven, or if cracks are wide or offset, you should have a basement professional check them out. Doors or windows don't close evenly. Cracking wall Upstairs floor uneven Foundation wall crack is offset. Basement walls bowed Cracks Basement floor cracked or uneven SPOTTING PROBLEMS 43 THE GRITTY REALITY >> STRUCTURAL PROBLEMS AND SOLUTIONS SOLVING PROBLEMS U nfortunately, foundation repairs are not do-ityourself projects. Find a company with a long history of foundation repair in your area. The company should have plenty of references you can call, and the salesperson should explain clearly the type of work they will do. Two common repairs are adding carbon armor straps and neckties. If a wall is bowing in the middle due to soil pressure, the bowing can often be stopped with the installation of special foundation straps that are typically made of super-strong carbon fiber. These can be installed quickly and on the inside of the basement, so no excavation is required. They can be painted over or hidden behind walls that you frame out. If an entire wall is leaning at its top, the process can be stopped by use of a foundation strap with the addition of a necktie. Made of exceptionally strong Kevlar® or fiberglass, a necktie is bolted with special hardware to the outside or rim joist, to hold the wall in place. If the floor is sinking, the foundation likely needs to be raised and reinforced. A basement repair company can insert foundation piers, as shown on p. 46. >> >> >> Neckties will combat top wall movement of load-bearing and non-load-bearing walls. A carbon strap won't fix a bowed wall, but it will stop the wall from continuing to bow. The strap—and bowed wall—can be hidden behind drywall. A floor that is 11⁄ 2 in. below the bottom of the wall (left) has sunk and needs to be raised and reinforced. After raising the foundation with a foundation pier and supporting it by pumping in concrete, as shown on p. 46, the floor is brought up to meet the wall and will not sink any farther (right). 44 SOLVING PROBLEMS STRUCTURAL PROBLEMS AND SOLUTIONS >> THE GRITTY REALITY WALL ANCHOR SYSTEM Straps and neckties stabilize walls that lean slightly. But if a wall is leaning or bowed seriously, and you need not just to keep it from getting worse but to actually move it into better position, then solutions from the outside are called for. A wall anchor system can be installed with surprisingly little disruption to your yard. With almost surgical precision, heavy-duty wall anchors are inserted into the soil and secured with threaded steel rods that poke into the basement. Inside, you see a series of wall plates. Bolt heads on the plates can be turned to adjust the wall's position. Wall plate Wall anchor system Previously bowed wall Wall Footing SOLVING PROBLEMS 45 THE GRITTY REALITY >> STRUCTURAL PROBLEMS AND SOLUTIONS SOLVING PROBLEMS (CONTINUED) Installing wall anchors Raising a sunken foundation calls for digging a big hole and firing up heavy-duty equipment in order to add a bracket for support. Companies that specialize in repairing bowed and damaged basement walls have developed methods to limit the damage to interior walls and the lawn outside. Here are some techniques used by the Perma-Seal company in the Midwest. There are likely companies in other areas that follow this or a similar technique. Using heavy-duty drills and massively long masonry drill bits, holes driven through the interior wall are generally only 2 in. or so in diameter ❶. Through experience and some calculating, the workers know pretty much where the drill bits will end up on the outside. Holes are dug from those locations. ❷. Here, the sod is neatly cut out so it can be replaced later. Large threaded rods are pushed through the hole in the interior wall to the outside holes, where they are attached to wide plates ❸. From the inside, the threaded rod's hole is filled with a very strong epoxy that keeps out any possibility of moisture infiltration ❹. A large plate is attached temporarily while the wall is ratcheted back into straight vertical ❺. The plate is left in place ❻. It may need adjusting in the future. You may leave it exposed, or cover with framing and drywall. FOUNDATION PIERS If your walls and floors are sinking, the concrete footing they rest on is likely sinking. Believe it or not, footings can be raised. However, this is the most extreme repair, involving digging a wide trench around the house, inserting a steel push pier deep into the ground next to it, and raising the footing up with steel brackets attached to the pier. The process can take some days, as the footing is raised slowly with hydraulic pressure. Once raised, concrete is pumped into the space under the footing, and the house will remain stable for a century or more to come. Backfilled dirt Wall Footing Floor Steel bracket Clay soil Steel pier Bedrock or bearing soil 46 SOLVING PROBLEMS STRUCTURAL PROBLEMS AND SOLUTIONS >> THE GRITTY REALITY 1 A large bit drills holes through the basement wall. 3 5 2 Holes dug from the outside will be neatly filled later. 4 The hole is sealed against moisture. 6 The interior plate is left in place. These plates are wide enough to stay still while the wall is pulled back into position. From the inside, the wall is pulled until straight. SOLVING PROBLEMS 47 THE GRITTY REALITY >> STRUCTURAL PROBLEMS AND SOLUTIONS POSTS AND BEAMS T he first floor's floor joists—which are also the basement's ceiling joists—are often made of 2-by material, but in newer homes, the joists may be made of "engineered" materials laminated together for greater strength. If they are very strong, these joists can span across the entire width of a basement; in that case they need not be supported in the middle. But in older homes, or if the basement is very wide, a beam (or two) must support the joists in 1 the middle, to keep the floor above from sagging. This is done with a beam that is supported with posts. You may decide to leave the posts in place, and do your remodeling around them: you can incorporate them into walls, or wrap them with trim. This limits layout possibilities, but eliminating posts is difficult. If you have posts and a beam, inspect for damage and straightness before you proceed. Posts should be close to plumb in both Use adjustable posts to raise the beam, then insert pieces of wood between the top of the post and the underside of the beam. 48 POSTS AND BEAMS directions. If you see substantial cracks, or if poking with a screwdriver reveals substantial rot, then the post or a part of the beam should be replaced. The beam—and the floor above—should also be reasonably level. If not, you may be able to shim it up, as long as the condition is not severe. Adjustable posts, also called floor jacks, can be used to support and also raise a beam ❶. Rest the post on a piece of lumber at the bottom, to spread out the load on a concrete floor. Turn 2 Find a level spot under the beam for the post anchor, then secure it to the concrete floor with a masonry screw. 3 With the post set firmly and level in the anchor, secure the two together with screws or nails. STRUCTURAL PROBLEMS AND SOLUTIONS >> THE GRITTY REALITY the handle at the top to raise the beam. If you need to raise more than an inch, raise it a bit, wait a few days, then raise again, to avoid cracking the beam and joists. Posts—which are often 6x6s—should rest not just on the concrete floor, which is typically only 3 in. to 4 in. thick. Instead, they should be supported by concrete footings that are at least 2 ft. deep, and deeper if possible. You probably cannot see how deep your footings are, but if a beam sinks more than 1⁄ 2 in. at the post, or if the concrete footing appears cracked or loose, it's a good idea to repour a footing: Support the beam temporarily on each side, remove the post, break up the footing and pry it out, dig a deeper hole, and pour concrete. Attach a wood post at the bottom with a post anchor made for a 6x6 or 8x8 post ❷. Use a level to mark a spot directly below the beam. Drill a hole with a hammer drill and masonry bit, and attach the anchor with a masonry screw or with injected epoxy. Set the post in the anchor, check it for plumb, and attach with nails or screws driven through the holes in the anchor ❸. Replacing a section of wood beam If a portion of a beam is damaged by cracks or rot, you can replace it. Be sure to temporarily support all the joists that will be left unsupported when you remove the section ❶. Cut the beam at the center of a 1 Temporarily support the joists before removing the damaged beam section. 3 post on each side. You may need to modify the beam piece to get it to fit. In this case, a long notch was cut ❷. Raise the beam piece in position and attach it with screws to the posts, the beam on each side, and the joists ❸. >> >> >> 2 Often a beam needs to be notched in order to fit. After setting in the beam, attach securely with angle-driven screws. POSTS AND BEAMS 49 THE GRITTY REALITY >> STRUCTURAL PROBLEMS AND SOLUTIONS POSTS AND BEAMS (CONTINUED) INSTALLING A STEEL I-BEAM A steel I-beam is stronger than a typical wood beam, so by installing one you can eliminate some posts and make the basement space more wide open. Check with a building inspector or an engineer to be sure the beam will be strong enough for your situation. As you may expect, a steel beam is very heavy. Because a crane cannot fit into a basement, manpower is the way to move one. Start by temporarily supporting the joists on each side. Cut channels in the masonry walls where you will insert the beam or supply a code-approved way to support the beam at each end. In this example, a beam was threaded through a small basement window ❶ ❷. Plenty of manpower was needed to carry it, raise one end into the channel cut into the brick wall, and then raise the other end so temporary adjustable posts could be placed below ❸. The beam was then slowly raised nearly into final position by turning the handles on the adjustable posts ❹. After raising some joists by almost an inch, it was decided to wait a few days before raising the beam all the way. 2 1 3 50 POSTS AND BEAMS 4 STRUCTURAL PROBLEMS AND SOLUTIONS >> THE GRITTY REALITY SEALING DUCTS AND PIPES B asements have lots of pipes and ducts that poke outside, as well as plenty of places where the outside can infiltrate. Take the time to seal these nice and tight before remodeling. On a cold and windy day, you can often feel some of the places where extra sealing is needed. Materials of choice for sealing include foil-type duct tape, high-quality caulk, and spray-foam insulation. This old duct arrangement is in need of repair. Ducts should not exit through a window but rather through a rim joist or the masonry wall. In addition, duct fittings should be substantial enough to withstand years of use. The fittings shown are too thin and are duct-taped. Foil tape is better. Examine all your ductwork, and seal it nice and tight. Here, a flexible pipe is tightly sealed where it enters a furnace, first with the proper fitting, then with foil tape. This gas pipe is pretty well sealed with mortar, but mortar cracks. A good bead of flexible caulk on the inside and outside will take only a few minutes to apply, and will keep the outside air outside. Spray-foam insulation, available in canned form, makes an excellent sealer where looks are not important. SEALING DUCTS AND PIPES 51 THE GRITTY REALITY >> STRUCTURAL PROBLEMS AND SOLUTIONS UPGRADING MAJOR APPLIANCES M ost of the engines that make our lives comfortable live in the basement, where they are for the most part out of sight and out of mind. Part of your goal in remodeling will be to hide them from sight as much as possible. That may mean moving some of them, so they can reside behind walls in a utility room that takes up as little space as possible. Now is also the time to assess your appliances and decide if you need to make some changes. due. Consider a larger-capacity unit if you sometimes run out of water, especially if you will install a new basement bathroom. Or, you may be better off with a tankless water heater. Laundry Boiler and furnace Fortunately, laundry facilities can be moved without much trouble; see p. 131 for setting up a shiny new launderette. If your machines are old, consider buying a more energyefficient and high-load washer and dryer. The extra-large laundry tub shown below left has antique charm, and you may want to refurbish one like this. But for most of us, a simple single-basin tub will do the job. Have your heating plant—boiler for hot-water, radiant, or steam heat or furnace for forcedair heat—inspected by a heating company to see if you might be able to save money in the long run with a newer, more energy-efficient unit. An older boiler like the one, below left, can be fairly efficient if well maintained, but new high-efficiency models like the furnace, below right, have a pair of PVC pipes rather than a single metal duct arranged so far less heat is lost to the outside. They also have improved gas burners or electric heating elements, to sip rather than gulp expensive energy. See "DWV Plans," p. 111, and "Rough Plumbing Configurations," pp. 128–131. Water heater Standard water heaters usually need to be replaced every 10 years or so; yours may be A standard tank-type water heater like this is still the most common choice. If your family sometimes runs out of hot water, consider buying a new unit with a larger capacity. An older "slop sink" gets the job done, but a remodeled laundry area will make your weekly laundry chores much more pleasant. 52 UPGRADING MAJOR APPLIANCES Although some older boilers (left) are fairly efficient, a high-efficiency furnace (right) can save plenty on energy costs over the years. STRUCTURAL PROBLEMS AND SOLUTIONS >> THE GRITTY REALITY Service panel Your electrical service panel should be neatly arranged with wires running to plenty of breakers. (If you have a fuse box that actually uses fuses, it is certainly time to upgrade.) There should be plenty of service capacity— at least 100 amps for a smaller home and 200 amps for a larger home. And you will need open slots for future breakers that you will use when installing new services in your basement. It's a good idea to have an electrician assess your wiring for safety. OLD BASEMENT PIPES A basement usually houses the main plumbing drain, as well as a bunch of branch drains. If you have a newer home with plastic PVC drainpipes and have no problems with major clogs, you are probably in fine shape. In an older home, opening a drain may reveal a nightmare like the one shown below left. Make sure cleanouts—places where you can remove a plug and insert an auger to rod the line—are in good working order; the one below right needs replacement. Any old galvanized pipes will corrode and clog soon, and should be replaced with extruded or cross-linked polyethylene tubing (PEX) or copper. Even copper pipes can also corrode and need to be replaced. This main drain is almost completely clogged, which is not that unusual in an older home. An old cast-iron drain stack with a cleanout at the floor will likely be rusted; it is usually a good idea to replace the cleanout and some of the pipe. A well-organized service panel has wires that are neatly routed to their breakers. This tangle of tubes includes electrical conduit and cable as well as a black gas pipe and water supply pipes in copper and galvanized steel. Galvanized pipes almost always should be replaced. In this case, the copper pipe shows signs of decay as well. UPGRADING MAJOR APPLIANCES 53 THE GRITTY REALITY >> STRUCTURAL PROBLEMS AND SOLUTIONS LOWERING A BASEMENT FLOOR I is to get the concrete and soil out, as well as how hard the soil is to dig. There may be construction companies in your area that are experienced in this work; get prices from two or three of them. The floor is usually lowered below the level of the concrete footing, which poses a problem: If you dig under the footing, you will compromise the structure of your basement—and house. Some contractors dig a small section, fill with concrete under the footing, and move on to the next section. n an older home, the basement ceiling may be uncomfortably low, and covering pipes and ducts may make it lower still. The solution is rather drastic: Chop out and haul away the existing concrete floor, then dig out the new floor to a depth of about 5 in. lower than the future depth of the new concrete floor. Add and tamp a layer of gravel and pour a new concrete floor. This all sounds nearly impossible, but it is actually done pretty often. The difficulty of the job depends largely on how hard it A more common—and safer—method is to use a "bench footing," as shown in the drawing below. This can be done without undermining the existing footing. However, it will lessen your usable floor space. The bench footing must be sloped no steeper than 3 and 2 (see the drawing). So if, for example, you lower the floor by 12 in., you will lose about 18 in. of floor space at each wall. LOWERING A BASEMENT FLOOR WITH A BENCH FOOTING Using a bench footing is the safe way to proceed because you do not undermine the basement's footing. However, it does cause a loss of floor space. Concrete wall Old floor New concrete bench footing Footing New concrete floor Gravel bed Drain tile Slope of bench footing: 2 3 54 LOWERING A BASEMENT FLOOR STRUCTURAL PROBLEMS AND SOLUTIONS >> THE GRITTY REALITY PESTS A basement is a moist place that is warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer than the out of doors, and so is a magnet for insects and other pests—including mice and rats, and even snakes in some areas. But the most common and troublesome pest is the termite. These critters take a variety of forms, depending on their role in the social structure and the phase of life, as shown below. Of course, the most telling sign of their presence is wood that has been eaten away. However, the channels they dig while devouring are most often inside the wood, where you cannot see them. Poke your sill plate, posts, beams, and joists with a screwdriver at many points. If you feel sponginess or a hollow space, dig it away. If you see channels that are eaten away, call in a pest control company for evaluation. These wood eaters need not only food but water, and so they have two main forms of habitation: A primary infestation will be outdoors, in an underground nest. The termites live there, and make daily trips to your house to gather food in the form of your lumber. In a secondary infestation, they live inside your home in a space with a reliable source of moisture. If you see an actual colony of termites inside your home, then you have a secondary infestation that can most likely be taken care of by killing the queen and eliminating the moisture permanently. A primary infestation is more difficult to deal with. TERMITES AT VARIOUS STAGES It can be difficult to identify termites because they take on a good number of forms. Here are some of the most common. Reproductive nymph This is serious stuff. Termites can cause very expensive damage, and in some cases can even destroy a home. Don't try to abate termites yourself; a pest control company will have a much greater chance of success. They may use a trap system, or they may work on the outside to destroy the colonies there. You can test for the presence of woodeating bugs or rot by simply poking with a screwdriver. Alate Supplementary reproductives COMBATTING MINOR PESTS Worker Older nymph Soldier Young nymph Eggs King termite Dealate Queen termite The best way to eliminate cockroaches is not with the spray stuff that kills them instantly; you won't get them all, and they will return. Instead, carefully spread poufs of boric acid around the perimeter of the inside of your basement and wherever else they travel. Keep pets and small children away from the powder. It will take a week or two, but pests will carry the powder back to their lairs, where the queen and the entire colony will be killed. For spiders, ants, and other annoyances, a "bug bomb" usually does a very good job. Seal the area, open the bomb, and leave for a day or so. PESTS 55 THE GRITTY REALITY >> STRUCTURAL PROBLEMS AND SOLUTIONS RADIANT FLOOR HEAT N othing makes a basement more comfortable than radiant heat, which transforms a cold and clammy concrete floor into a delicious place of even, gentle warmth. The warmth rises up to heat the basement and can even help heat the floor above as well. Electric radiant heat is suitable in areas with cheap electricity, or for small spaces like a powder room. Tubing can be laid on top of the concrete floor, just before setting tiles. For a large area, hot-water radiant is usually a better choice. Hot-water radiant 1 Running tubing in concrete In the most common installation, PEX tubing is embedded in concrete. Use aluminumreinforced PEX, which will hold its position once bent. Two layers of plastic sheeting are laid on the floor to protect the PEX from condensation. Then wire reinforcing mesh is cut to fit and placed over the plastic. Once this is done, run PEX tubing in loops, so it is fairly evenly spaced throughout the floor. Take your time creating a pattern that covers most of the floor area ❶. Where you will install the boiler that heats the water, run the PEX up and out of the floor ❷. Once all the tubing is laid, be sure that it all lies flat on the floor. Pour and finish the concrete ❸. Unless you have experience installing heating systems, hire a plumber or a heating company to hook the tubing to a heat source. Run aluminum-reinforced PEX in a pattern throughout the floor. 2 56 pipes are embedded in the concrete, so you'll need to plan early, before you start framing out the basement floors and walls; see the photos here for installation. The tubing should run up the wall near where the heating unit will be. RADIANT FLOOR HEAT 3 Pour and finish the concrete floor. STRUCTURAL PROBLEMS AND SOLUTIONS >> THE GRITTY REALITY Installing the heating unit This is a job for pros, and I won't even try to give instructions. Here we see a tankless water heater with dual use—it supplies hot water to the floor and to the plumbing in the rest of the house as well. You also could have a separate boiler for the radiant heat. Much of the plumbing to hook up the heating unit is done on the floor, where shutoff valves and initial fittings are sweated in place ❶. Then the unit is mounted onto a heatproof surface, and the rest of the connections are made ❷. 1 Assembling lines with shutoff valves for two or more services is a complicated process and best done on the floor, where everything can be spread out and sweated in place. RUNNING PEX IN FRAMING If the floor needs to be raised, spread reflective insulating sheets on top of the concrete floor. Build floor framing as needed. In this example, the framing is raised a couple of inches, and the PEX tubing is run under the framing. Another option is to lay the framing on the sheets and thread the PEX through holes drilled in the framing. Arrange the PEX in loops so there are no gaps greater than 16 in. or so. Once the PEX is run, attach plywood or oriented strand board (OSB) subflooring to the framing. 2 The final connections are made after the heating unit is mounted onto a heat-proof surface, here a piece of plywood covered with metal sheeting. PLAN AHEAD TO AVOID PUNCTURING PIPES When you install framing, you will drive masonry screws or powderactuated nails into the concrete to attach bottom plates. If you hit a pipe in the concrete, the results can be quite devastating: a slow leak that will not quit, requiring you to tear up the concrete to make a repair. So take photos of the installation, and note the distances away from landmarks, so you can be sure to avoid the pipes. RADIANT FLOOR HEAT 57 PLAN LAYOUTS AND INSTALLATIONS B EFORE YOU START DEMOLISHING or building, it's important to take time to plan exactly how you will make the installations. Some of your plans—such as how you frame your walls and provide a subfloor for your finish flooring—will depend on local conditions. Be sure SIMPLE SOLUTIONS Minimalist Approaches, p. 60 to check with local codes, and get a permit for all electrical and plumbing work. Look through the rest of the book to make decisions on things like how to insulate the walls, what sort of windows to install, lighting and electrical receptacles, and plumbing fixtures. Even think through the furniture you want, and make sure there is ample room for it. Detailed drawings, planning exactly where everything will go, will be necessary not only so you can decide which tasks you want to tackle yourself and those that you'll hire out, but also for required permits. And although basement work does not usually affect the family's life in the LAYOUT CONSIDERATIONS rest of the house, it's important to set The Order of Work, Getting Ready to Get a timetable for the work to be done p. 67 Ready, p. 62 so your basement remodel doesn't Electrical and Plumbing Planning and Drawing, Installations, p. 68 p. 63 become long and protracted. Working with Subcontractors, p. 67 58 Choosing Lighting, p. 72 59 PLAN LAYOUTS AND INSTALLATIONS >> SIMPLE SOLUTIONS MINIMALIST APPROACHES T he most common approach to basement remodeling includes installing flooring, wall, and ceiling surfaces that look very much like those in upstairs rooms. We are creatures of habit, comfortable when surrounded with smooth walls covered with paint, paneling, or tile, as well as floors that are tile, hardwood, or carpet. But there's another way of thinking about a basement: It need not be like all the other rooms in the house, and may actually have a sort of rustic (or industrial or Bohemian) charm if treated more lightly. The idea is to "let a basement be a basement." Once you achieve this attitude, all sorts of funky elements—pipes, ducts, exposed joists and beams, rough masonry walls and floors, and even some appliances—no longer appear as eyesores. Instead, they achieve (in one's mind, anyway) the status of "utilitarian beauty." Perhaps the greatest virtue of the minimalist approach is that it can save tons of money. Moving pipes and ducts, framing walls and floors, and installing drywall surfaces, as well as finished-looking lights and plumbing services, consumes lots and lots of time and materials. And, in many cases, such hardcore remodeling is strictly cosmetic and does not actually make a basement more comfortable or usable. Plus, strategies like leaving walls and floors unfinished or merely painted ensure against expensive damage in case of a flood. All that money you save can go toward things that make a basement memorable, such as artwork for walls, fancy rugs, and fun stuff like a pool table or wine cellar. However, do not neglect safety and comfort concerns. If you have nonmetallic cable for wiring, it should not be in easy reach. Perhaps replace it with solid conduit A bare concrete floor makes an ideal surface for skateboarding ramps. Plywood walls make an ideal canvas for painted murals. 60 MINIMALIST APPROACHES SIMPLE SOLUTIONS >> PLAN LAYOUTS AND INSTALLATIONS In this basement, a hardwood floor was laid, but the walls were simply spray painted; ceiling joists are left exposed, and electrical supplies are on display. Rather than hiding large ducts, they are celebrated for their shininess. Overhead c