text:
A personal note.
Shortly after I finished design school I was working at a small design house in Montreal when someone from one of the local factories told me that the general manager of the place they worked wanted to meet me. It had come to his attention that there was a young tailor working right around the corner and they needed more tailors. I had known of Samuelsohn for a very long time so I was excited to be summoned. They offered me a job right away and I accepted and began a career in tailored clothing manufacturing.
Samuelsohn is a company which places a high degree of importance on quality so I learned a lot about the mechanization and industrialization of traditional tailoring techniques with which I was already familiar, but never did I see an engineer doing time studies or hear discussions about costs or yields or output. After some time with the company my mentor told me that there was another company which needed someone like me. I didn't want to leave but he told me that I had a good understanding of how to do things well, but no idea how to do things efficiently and inexpensively, and that I should go work for a variety of companies and learn the different facets of the industry. Learn how to manufacture garments offshore. Learn how to forecast fabric and trim requirements. All sorts of things. He told me I wouldn't be ready to settle until I was into my forties. So armed with this advice I left Samuelsohn to go work for an importer, and then a few companies after that. On my last day a member of the Samuelsohn family told me that I would be back some day, that this was my home and my family.
Fast forward about 15 years and I was approached to go work for HMX group, formerly known as Hartmarx, in Chicago. I would take over the Hart Schaffner & Marx brand and help revitalize it, but one of the carrots they dangled was the opportunity to do some work with, and then perhaps some day take over as well, our sister company Hickey Freeman. Hickey Freeman is a factory that does some beautiful garments, mostly full-canvas like Samuelsohn, and I was lucky to work with that factory and with another mentor who was there at the time, Paul Farrington. At one point Hickey Freeman was sold, interestingly enough, to Samuelsohn, which was a huge disappointment to me. Some time later I was approached about helping to turn around another struggling company in the south, so I and two other colleagues ade plans to go south and fix the struggling company.
The company in question had been forced in to bankruptcy and had been producing very low cost and low quality garments. Our job was to redesign all the product, redesign the factory so that they could produce a better quality garment, teach existing staff how to do it, and hire other new staff and train them. A year and a half later we have gone from 210 employees to well over 300, we have made major strides in the quality, fit and appearance of the garments being produced, and were recently honored with an award given by a magazine which is hugely popular n the south known as Garden and Gun. There are still challenges which exist in terms of getting everyone up to full efficiency so the factory can meet the huge increase in demand, and some tweaks to the fit now that we see full production runs instead of just samples, but I feel like the bulk of the heavy lifting has been done.
So now I have a chance to "go home". I will be joining (or re-joining) the Luxury Mens Apparel Group, the company which owns Samuelsohn and Hickey Freeman in the new year, going back to work with a lot of the same people I have worked with over the years, plus a lot of new and fantastic ones. I will spend some time in Montreal, at Samuelsohn, before settling in Rochester at the Hickey Freeman factory. And now that I have reached those dreaded forties I am hoping it's now time to settle down. So Jack and George were both right, those twenty years ago.
Thursday, December 17, 2015
Going home
Friday, December 4, 2015
Some more flannel
Monday, September 21, 2015
The suit that I most recently dissected came with a pair of "pents" (as the Italians refer to them) made by another maker, this one even more well-known than the coat maker. While there was initially some debate about their provenance, Vox tells me that the maker emailed him to confirm that he did, in fact make them (some will recall that Vox obtained the suit second-hand from the original owner). So even though I have confirmation that it is his work, he is often dyspeptic when it comes to discussions of his work. That and the fact that were a number of what I think were after-market alterations which make it difficult to really gauge the level of workmanship so I am going to tread lightly on this one; in this case it seemed that the lining was added after the completion of the garment and while it would be normal to have the original maker do that kind of alteration, it is not a given, and since the workmanship of that particular alteration was so bad and at the same time unattributed, I will have to try to remove the lining first before looking more closely at the rest. They are, however, interesting, so as soon as I figure out a way of examining them without inviting comments about the shape and size of my head I will do so.
In trying to determine whether the lining was original or after-market (his other clients assured me that the maker discourages lining), Derek of the blogs Put This On and Die, Workwear! generously offered to photograph some of the trousers he has had made by a variety of makers. I found them interesting to look and he gave me permission to share them.
Thank you, Derek.
Napoli Su Misura
Tuesday, September 15, 2015
Tuesday, September 8, 2015
Making myself something new- Escorial
I recently cut myself a suit out of a length of escorial wool, never having worked with the cloth before. From the Escorial Group's website-
Escorial is a rare and luxurious wool from a small sheep originating from the Spanish Royal flocks of El Escorial, today only to be found in small numbers in Australia and New Zealand.
The Escorial difference is in the heart of the fibre, performing as a naturally coiled spring.
This flexible characteristic creates a fabric that is incomparable in drape and resilience with a distinctive soft handle.
The suppleness and fluidity of the Escorial fabric delivers a garment of comfort and performance.
Escorial is often likened to curly hair. In comparison to straight hair, curly hair traps air between each strand, providing greater bounce and insulation. The special touch of Escorial comes from the airy nature of the fibre.
The Escorial fibre is like a curled spring and when stretched throughout production processes its natural memory is to return to the original curled state. It is this characteristic that makes Escorial garments, lightweight and resilient.
The story is one of sheep which had been kept by the King of Spain, ending up in Tasmania by way of Saxony. The whole story is interesting and can be read here. It is said that there are fewer of these purebred sheep than the extremely rare vicuna and that this accounts in part for the very steep price of woven escorial. I really enjoyed making it up, and it takes very well to the iron, but being a fall weight and finish it will be a few months before I get to actually wear it and see how it performs. So far I love the stuff.
Some random photos- the back still needs work, which is hard to do when fitting yourself. I have some time to get it fixed.
Thursday, June 25, 2015
A story, translated (and slightly condensed) from the website of the tailor who made the suit we most recently dissected.
If i recall correctly, about ten or fifteen years ago I was visited by a client who was not particularly elegant but who was wearing a suit from a very famous and expensive brand. Despite the expensive suit, he seemed to me to be a mannequin in grey chalk stripes. The client, who was given my name by one of my Roman clients, looked at me, perplexed, and asked me to make him a suit like the one he had on. "A manager's suit", he whispered to me. I had him remove his jacket, and started taking measurements.
Two or three fittings later we had a nearly completed suit. I could tell that he was not satisfied because he asked me to make modifications which, to me, made no sense. I proceeded to mark the suit up with chalk but made no actual changes. In a month I finished his blue cotton suit, three buttons rolled to two in the traditional Neapolitan fashion, manica a camicia [shirt sleeves] and patch pockets.
He tried the suit on for a moment, and not feeling satisfied with what I had done, told me it felt wrong, then that it was too tight, that the shoulders were too wide.
A disaster!
I saw him again three weeks later. He had one his blue suit, telling me that he had been wearing it for a week because, for the first time, he felt a complete liberty of movement and that, as a result, he could no longer wear his older suits. He ordered three more suits.
A Neapolitan suit is like a drug that causes dependency at without which, once hooked, one can no longer do without.
There may be a great deal of truth to this story.
It is important to remember that most tailors learned and perfected their craft long before the advent of the internet. A tailor working in a shop in southern Italy would not often have the chance to see the work of other tailors, particularly those from other parts of the world. Regional characteristics were fairly common because most tailors operated in a sort of stylistic bubble; remember how Domenico Caraceni, often called the father of Italian tailoring, studied the King of England's castoffs, not to copy exactly but to learn from them and to adapt whatever techniques he found useful. The Asola Lucida, or Milanaise buttonhole are obvious examples of a regional detail. There are very strong resemblances in the interiors (and lapels) of the best Parisian tailors. The curved barchetta breast pocket is another. Jet planes made travel easier, though tailors weren't necessarily the first to be flying around the globe for inspiration or education. The internet changed all that.
Customers are now comparing notes on internet fora, tailors are posting images of their work, and more and more are getting technical. We are sharing and learning from each other. It may well have been that the tailor in question was never very well trained in pocket making or finishing, but had discovered a secret sauce, the perfect combination of cloth, canvas, cutting and other components which made for a fluid, supremely comfortable suit. Maybe this tailor's popularity began to grow, aided in part by the internet, and he gradually began to up his game. I can think of at least one other notable cutter whose work has improved immensely over the last years of his career, no doubt in part due to his exposure to other people's work. The thing is, though, one either needs a more experienced person to point out your failings, and with some luck add a bit of advice on how to correct them, or a great deal of self-awareness and curiosity is required, the kind that causes one to explore the work of others, things that inspire, which perhaps serve to illustrate what one can do a little better... The hard part of the latter option is figuring out exactly how to do it better. It is comparatively easy to spot something wrong, but often very difficult to figure out how to do it right, if you don't have someone to show you, especially in the tailoring world which tends to be a bit dogmatic about the "correct" way of doing things. It's hard to challenge your own notions of the "right" way of doing things, especially when those techniques are working for you, but the only way to grow in a craft is to constantly be asking yourself "what if I am wrong about this?". "What if I did the complete opposite of what I think I know to be right- what would happen then?"
And then have the nerve and the patience to try it out.
It would be futile to try to figure out the exact circumstances surrounding this disaster of a suit, but it makes one think about the sort of detail one begins to overlook when other, more important ones have been perfected. I am also encouraged to know that the tailor in question is no longer churning out such rubbish so somewhere along the line, something good happened.
Tuesday, June 16, 2015
Sprezzatura- the Great Philological Debate
I received an email from a reader and I thought it sufficiently interesting to pass on in its full, unadulterated format, while I collect my thoughts for the conclusion to the series of posts on that coat. Thanks go out to Seth for sending this!
(Links inserted were mine)
Since I have profited, as an obsessive hobbyist who attempts significant alterations, from your knowledge and instruction, I thought I would take the opportunity to offer my knowledge on something of interest to you, that is sprezzatura. I don't often have the chance to put a doctorate in Italian studies to practical use, but this seems to be such an occasion. I thought I would offer a bit more of the historical / social / culture perspective that might help us use the term more precisely. I'm sure you've noticed how it gets bandied about in the igent community, in what can only be described as felony linguistic abuse. The term, as coined by Castiglione, has a very specific meaning, and I think it would be beneficial to try to narrow usage of it to clarify artistic judgments, particularly in coming to terms with what exactly is represented by the coat donated by voxsartoria.
When Castiglione coined the term, he was describing above all a social grace that only makes sense in context. His Libro del cortegiano was intended as a 16th-century "how to succeed in business"-type book, written for the courtier. Fortunately I think his context of Renaissance courts bears striking similarity to the modern business world, and so sprezzatura as a behavioral standard is still functional. The similarity between the worlds is this: success is primarily determined by one's relationship with the immediate superior, whether that is a local prince or a department head. The ability to appear important to one's boss often trumps talent or ingenuity, which is why both worlds are plagued by flattery, envy and petty rivalries. Sprezzatura is intended not primarily as an aesthetic principle, but as a social tool for succeeding in this sort of environment. Its purpose is to simultaneously prevent envy and create admiration amongst colleagues and superiors. Castiglione uses the term in a discussion of the acquiring useful skills. After mentioning which skills matter, he focuses on the way that these skills should be presented. The short answer is "gracefully." Sprezzatura is the answer to the question "how do I act gracefully?" It is the polar opposite of affectation. The skilled courtier acts with what might be rendered as "disdainfulness" (sprezzare is ordinarily used at this time to describe aristocratic haughtiness), a way of presenting one's accomplishments as if they were effortless, but the whole point is that the audience is fully aware of the effort required. The original quotation:
Trovo una regula universalissima, la qual mi par valer circa questo [i.e., how social grace is formed] in tutte le cose umane che si facciano o dicano più che alcuna altra, e ciò è fuggir quanto più si po, e come un asperissimo e pericoloso scoglio, la affettazione. E per dir forse una nova parola, usar in ogni cosa una certa sprezzatura, che nasconda l'arte e dimostri ciò che si fa e dice venir fatto senza fatica e quasi senza pensarvi. Da questa credo io che derivi assai la grazia perché delle cose rare e ben fatte ognun sa la difficultà, onde in esse la facilità genera grandissima maraviglia
I think there are two aspects to be considered for sprezzatura. The first is the concept of "hiding the art," to make the contrived appear natural. The key is appearance. Castiglione is not supporting naturalism here -- he doesn't encourage the courtier to "be himself", he's encouraging the courtier to make himself a better courtier through intense training and then to present that person as if it were the natural self. As someone who spent years mastering a craft, you should be pleased to note that quotation above is preceded by an injunction to master a craft first (set forth in terms of masters and disciples), and only after mastering the craft is the courtier instructed to present his finely honed skills as though they were instinctual and natural. This first point is only a means to an end, however. The second aspect of sprezzatura is the more important one, which is that it creates admiration amongst a group of elites. The purpose is not create the impression of ease and simplicity per se, but to create admiration by making the difficult look simple. Colleagues recognize the immense skilled required by your effort, and then take note that you pass off these skills as mere trifles. Therefore it only works as among experts who recognize that the created effect is not simple at all.
From what I've seen, sprezzatura is commonly used to describe attempts at sublimating the ordinary, which does a total disservice to the original intention. Sprezzatura is not about make the haggard appear regal, it's about making regal look natural, but in all cases it maintains its regal appearance. In a sense, menefreghismo stylizes lack of effort, trying to pass off apathy as social critique or aesthetic choice. Sprezzatura comes from the opposite end, downplaying acquired skill as natural ability. Sprezzatura as Castiglione intends it might be best exemplified by the pagoda shoulder -- an intensely complex creation demanding great skill which achieves an effect that mimics nature (or better, our expectation of nature, or even a better version of nature) and is a paragon of simplicity and grace. Or perhaps the satin stripe on formal trousers that hides the seam with a simple elegance. Sprezzatura has a somewhat passive-aggressive nature, since you're trying to impress people by making a show of not trying to impress them, but it is the exact opposite of a clear call for attention, like a contrasting buttonhole or an unbuttoned sleeve.
So back to the coat, however the tailor described his effort, I think it provides, perhaps unintentionally, a fantastic counter-example to sprezzatura. From what you've described, the coat was made by someone clearly capable of making a better coat whose worst efforts seem to be focused on the most visible details. My non-expert eyes are reminded of the painter/architect Giulio Romano and his Mannerist style intentionally rejecting Raphael's perfectionism and inserting artistic jokes -- subjects contorted into poses that are anatomically impossible, architectural details like fake keystones that don't actually support anything. From what you've described, the coat bears quite a bit of similarity in the way it presents itself to literary or artistic works that engage in this sort of high-brow self-mockery, but it's an insider's joke, 'yes these pockets are terrible by strict standards, but that's the point'. I think your pause to consider responses to modern art movements was spot on.
I hope you find something of use in this overly-long email. Again, thank you for running such a delightful blog.
Thursday, June 11, 2015
Menefreghismo, part 2- The Guts
If you missed the previous post about the mystery disaster suit, go back and start there. This week we look a bit at the cut and the inside of the coat.
First impression? This is very reminiscent of old Anderson and Sheppard cutting. Either the original owner had a very tiny waist, or, more likely, this was cut for a normal person but a liberal amount of drape was cut in the chest and blades, the shoulder is extended, and it has wonky sleeves, particularly in the undersleeve. The front dart is extended all the way to the hem in typical Neapolitan fashion. My feeling is that anyone who is or was a fan of the A&S style of cut would like this style of coat.
The extended front dart is something that is typically associated in early cutting with Drape- it was part of a manipulation for adding drape to the chest but keeping a trim waist and hip. This first image is from an English publication explaining the manipulations done to a normal lounge coat pattern to convert it to a drape model and shows the extended dart.
This second draft is an image of a page from a student's workbook from the time when he was studying at the Scuola Artistica di Taglio (Artistic Cutting School) in Naples in the mid 1950's. The front dart is in evidence here. Sandro was a very close friend of mine and a fantastic tailor but passed away a few months ago. He is missed.
Later drafting methods transferred the value of the portion of the dart which falls below the pocket to the underarm seam- you get the same effect but the pattern in the cloth is undisturbed below the pocket so this kind of dart is almost never seen except from Neapolitan tailors who treat it as a sign of distinction. I noticed that Paul Stuart was showing some garments which included this anachronistic mode of cutting recently and it wouldn't surprise me at all to see Ralph Lauren doing some of it.
In typical fashion, the seams are all lapped, which is to say that both seam allowances are pressed to one side instead of being pressed open. This gives a bit of a ridge to one side of the seam, and those ridges have been pick stitched flat. Though it is not obvious from the outside, the shoulder seam has been sewn by hand and the sleeves have been set by hand. Both also have lapped seams. Of particular interest is the treatment of the seam allowances at the armhole. Naples is said to have two different shoulder treatments- "con rollino", which is similar in treatment to a rope shoulder, where both seam allowances are pressed toward the sleeve and a fairly liberal amount of wadding is placed in the sleeve head, and "spalla camicia", or shirt shoulder, where the seam allowances are both turned toward the coat; very little or no wadding is put in the sleeve head and this sleeve has a very low, round expression. Often a good deal of fullness is cut into the sleeve so shirring is evident, often called "grinze", or "spalla a mappina". Most commonly the seam allowances are pressed open, and a moderate amount of wadding is inserted to keep the sleeve head area clean. It should be noted that the shirring would be evident on just about any sleeve that had no wadding- in fact, the wadding is placed in order to mitigate the shirring effect. It is entirely a myth that the shirring is some mystical, complicated thing that can only be done by hand- it is merely the result of having a sleeve which is larger than the armhole. All sleeves are larger than the armhole and the degree to which it is larger will determine the amount of shirring present, which is either left as is or cleaned up by the presence of sleeve head wadding.
What is particularly interesting in the case of this coat is that the shoulder treatment is something of a hybrid between a "con rollino" treatment and the more conventional one in that the portion of the armhole behind the shoulder seam has been pressed toward the sleeve in the "con rollino" fashion, and the front has been pressed open. I expected the "spalla camicia" treatment since this tailor claims on his website to do it, but perhaps the original owner requested this. It doesn't really matter- it's just interesting from a technical perspective. There is a double-folded, bias-cut piece of domette, the woven flannel sometimes used in the chest area to cover the hair cloth, as a rather bulky sleeve head wadding. Definitely "con rollino". There are two pieces of domette pad stitched together to form a type of shoulder pad- this would give a very soft, supple support to the shoulder area.
Sleeve and shoulder seam allowances-
Sleeve head wadding-
"shoulder pad"-
The wool canvas used in the front of the coat is a much more robust canvas than I would have expected. It is not stiff or firm, but a bit on the heavy side and very densely woven so the front has a lot of support and a decent roll to the lapel. Conversely, instead of haircloth, which is fairly firm, a medium-density hymo has been used in the upper part of the chest and a second layer of wool canvas in the lower part. They are covered in the same domette as was used in the sleeve and shoulder. There is a fairly large chest cut which I feel is necessary to support the drape and give shape to the chest. It is obvious that the cut and construction of the coat were done with softness in mind, but there are indications that the tailor was also concerned with giving some support to the coat so it wouldn't be completely lumpy and messy, as some draped coats are prone to being.
It is not uncommon to add a piece of silesia to the ends of the collar and sometimes the lapel, sandwiched between the cloth and the canvas. I was intrigued instead to find wiggan on top of the canvas (the sort typically used in hems of sleeves), and they weren't pad stitched as one unit, which would be the typical method- removing the wiggan I found that the collar and lapel had been pad stitched first, then the wiggan applied and pad stitched a second time. The facing has been drawn on by hand, something we don't see very often any more, as many feel that the machine gives a stronger, sharper line to the edge. Doing the facing edge by machine, though, requires a good amount of experience to judge the placement of the fullness, since we are working right sides together, sewing from the wrong side. Fullness is a bit like salt in cooking- just the right amount is required; too little and the lapel won't roll, and too much makes for a puckered front. When drawing the facing on by hand we are working from the outside so it is practically impossible to misjudge the placement or fullness, and the shape of the corner at the notch. Peaks especially benefit by this kind of treatment. It is much more time-consuming but much more foolproof than doing it by machine.
The back of the neck is supported by a piece of canvas- this is more typically done with wiggan or silesia. Sandro, my Neapolitan friend, would call this piece a "soffietto", but I never asked him why.
This was clearly made with a lot of consideration given to the internal construction, which makes the visible portions of it all the more puzzling. Pockets, lining, collar matching are easy compared to getting a clean front, lapel and collar, yet those are well done. The back of the sleeve is ugly to my eye but in this it is more of a personal preference. I would much prefer a sleeve which looked like this one done by Steed
to this one
BUT the way these sleeves have been cut will give some additional mobility. The drape in the blades, the soft chest and shoulder, and this wonky, overly long undersleeve all combine to create a garment which I imagine would be VERY comfortable, if a little bit sloppy looking.
Let's sit and think about that one for a while.
Friday, June 5, 2015
I struggle to understand this garment. I truly do.
Voxsartoria sent me a suit that he had acquired from the original owner. The coat was made in Naples by a fairly well-known and sought-after tailor, and the trousers were made by an even more well-known trouser maker, also in Naples. It is fairly common practice to farm out work like this.
First, a look at some of the external, cosmetic things. There is so much to the craft of tailoring that is hidden, that it is often said that the few details that are visible must be very carefully executed in order to convey the care (or lack thereof) given to the construction of the rest of the garment. Certain things like pattern matching were once a sign of quality but are now simply expected of even the cheapest ready-to-wear maker. The best tailors will often obsess over the cutting, balancing, matching and boxing of plaids and stripes. Chris Despos occasionally goes to very great lengths to get things to line up and balance, not because he thinks his client will ever notice, but because he is an artist who is concerned about meticulous execution. It is often one of those challenges we give ourselves just to push ourselves and expand our horizons a bit. My patchwork coat was one of those challenges.
I mention all this only to attempt to make the reader understand my intense shock when I am confronted with a garment like this. Whose many outward details were sewn as though by a beginner, or a blind person, or someone attempting to sew with their non-dominant hand. A garment which is easy to dismiss as the work of a charlatan were it not for the fact that some of the less-obvious elements, things which would never be done correctly by a novice, are actually fairly well done. Most of the techniques are very old-school and extremely time-consuming so the outward slap-dash mess is not the result of an attempt to save time. Only effort.
Without effort.
This expression was given as the translation of the Italian word, sprezzatura. It is meant to mean nonchalance, or an unstudied, easy approach to dressing. Carelessness, but in the sense of not having put a whole lot of effort in to one's appearance, but one who just happens to roll out of bed looking well put-together. In this instance, the more literal reading of the world careless would apply. Or menefreghismo, meaning, "I just don't give a shit".
We will come back to this in a subsequent post, having examined the technical aspects of the garment without having given much thought to the somewhat more intangible aspect of how the garment might affect the wearer's state of mind.
So. My first impressions?
A disaster.
This is important and will come back to us later.
Readers will have noticed that though my normal practice is to identify the maker, in this case they will remain nameless so as to avoid the appearance of my having a particular bone to pick with either of them and I certainly don't want to negatively affect their iReputations. This is merely an examination of the work of two of the more notable tailors in a city which many hold to be the best city in the world in which to find a tailor.
The collar. Pattern matching is generally expected here. #FAIL
I have never been a fan of Neapolitan buttonholes. I think they look sloppy and flat and uneven. I can spot a Kiton from ten feet just by the squashed beetles on the front of their coats. These are classic examples. That being said, this is a matter of pure personal preference; they might think that my buttonholes are rigid and lifeless. Or something. So there is nothing necessarily incorrect about these, I just don't like them.
The flap pockets, however, are a disaster. Period. Never mind the need to match the stripes, which any novice knows to do, the pockets are not even cut on grain. The corners are dog-eared, the pocket lips are uneven and messy, there is a gap between the end of the flap and the pocket, and the half-moon tacks at their ends are ridiculous. The technique that was attempted is generally regarded as the correct one, but they failed miserably in the attempt.
Even more lamentable is the interior. The finishing of the lining, though done by hand, and the interior pockets, equally done by hand, are atrocious. I have never seen something so bad, ever.
Click on the images for a closer look at the carnage.
Instead of conveying care and attention to detail, the visible details of the coats are unequivocal. Non me ne frega un cazzo, they say.
I think this is a good point at which to pause in the dissection. Critics were just as harsh in their initial appraisals of impressionism and cubism and dadaism: there is perhaps more going on here than just mismatched stripes and ugly pockets. Maybe. We will look next at the guts of the garment, most of which will be lost on anyone who is not an experienced tailor, but which might provide some insight anyway. Then we will hear from the tailor himself, a story translated from his own website which gives even more to think about. And a reminder I often repeat to myself and some of my colleagues.
We're not curing cancer, here. They're just clothes.


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Covid-19 info
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subset: commoncrawl


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A round-up of stories on Washington wine from January 22nd to 31st. Read previous round-ups here.
From around the country…
Wine Business Monthly names Milbrandt Vineyards one of its hot brands of 2012.
The San Francisco Examiner writes that big bargains can be found in Washington.
Good Fruit Grower writes about the vibrant Washington wine industry.
Wine Enthusiast writes that Seattle is Washington's new wine capital
The Indianapolis Star writes about Washington Merlots at bargain prices.
From the blogosphere…
The Washington Vine writes about Robert Karl Cellars. They also write about Willow Crest.
Northwest Wine Anthem writes about Seattle Food and Wine Experience.
Wine Peeps writes about a Fielding Hill Cabernet Franc vertical.
Woodinville Wine Update writes about upcoming events in Woodinville.
Great Northwest Wines writes about Olympic Cellars changing owners, a new project from Ste. Michelle's Doug Gore, and Westport Winery launching a new label.
Lucha Vino writes about Seattle and Chelan Bordeaux-style wines.
Write for Wine writes about the Seattle Food and Wine Experience.
Sips & The City writes about upcoming events.
Nectar Tasting Room & Wine Blog writes about February Spokane wine events.
Wild 4 Washington Wine writes about the January Virtual Tasting.
From the locals…
Writing for the Seattle Times, Paul Gregutt says that there are many winners from three Washington wineries.
KUOW writes about Northwest winemakers hoping to entice China's middle class (good read).
The Seattle Times writes about construction beginning at the Walter Clore Wine and Culinary Center in Prosser. They also write about the possibility of wine tastings expanding at farmer's markets.
The Tri-City Herald writes about Red Mountain growers bringing in water from the Yakima River.
The Idaho Statesman gives notes from the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition.
The Longview Daily News writes that more Washington stores are offering wine tastings.
The Tri-City Herald writes about an 'is it really the glass?' tasting.
Wenatchee World writes about great locally available wines.
Leftovers (posts missed from previous weeks)…
Wines & Vines writes about Charles Smith's expansion.
That's all folks!


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Measure Up – S10:E3
2MLily Adams and her stepbrother Bambino have invited Ms Faris over for a study session. The girls are bored with their work, so eventually Lily invites Ms Faris to start gossiping about her love life. Bambino isn't interested in hearing about his sister and her friend talking about their tight little pussies and big cocks, so Lily goes on the offensive about the size of Bambino's dick. Eventually Bambino whips it out to prove it's not small. Ms Faris is properly impressed by Bambino's dick, but Lily refuses to back down. Lily gets on her knees and starts sucking to prove it's not too big to fit in her mouth, and Ms Faris joins her because she just wants to suck it. Once the girls are done deep throating Bambino, Ms Faris peels off her shorts so Bambino can give it to her. He fucks her from behind while Lily watches and sucks her friend's titties. When Lily sees how good it is for Ms Faris, she decides to take Bambino for a test drive of her own.Lily only needs a taste of her stepbrother's so-called tiny cock to know she's nice and hooked. She and Ms Faris take turns riding him, alternating between who gets Bambino's face and his mouth. When they've had enough, they get on their knees together so they can go back to sucking and stroking Bambino's fuck stick. When he gives them a double facial, Lily must finally admit that she's pretty into Bambino's big juicy load even though she still swears his dick is tiny.


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For the first time there are decidedly more government employees than goods-producing (manufacturing) employees in the US according to the Department of Labor.
This chart is from The Mess That Greenspan Made here.
It is interesting to think about this in terms of health care, pension plans, job security, employee loyalty, and so forth.
The reason for this is not the growth of government jobs but rather the drastic shrinkage in US based manufacturing employment while government employment remains resilient. As a percent of the population, the number of government employees is now about 9% which is slightly lower than it was in the 1970's.
The Service sector dominates. There is a nice chart showing goods-producing, government, service, and non-employed percentages from EconomPicData here.
US corporations have been offshoring jobs for many years, in part due to the structural problems of benefits and environmental costs in a developed nation and Asian mercantilism. Some of this transfer of employee is due to natural market forces, but a great deal of it is a result of purposeful national policy and trade practices such as currency pegs, for example.
As Adam Smith observed in Wealth of Nations (1776):
"To found a great empire for the sole purpose of raising ... customers may at first sight appear a project fit only for a nation of shopkeepers. It is, however, a project altogether unfit for a nation of shopkeepers; but extremely fit for a nation whose government is influenced by shopkeepers."In this case if one substitutes "kleptocrats" for "shopkeepers" and "dollar debt slaves" for "customers" then the quotation may fit the current situation in the US and its reserve currency empire quite well. It also helps to explain the steady role of the government bureaucracy in administering this paper empire, as well as the outsized financial sector.
But one underestimates the resilience of a free people at their peril, as did Napoleon dismissing the English, echoing Smith, "L'Angleterre est une nation de boutiquiers," prior, of course, to his Waterloo in June, 1815.


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ILCA-99M2 - AF MACRO 100/2.8 NEW |Compatibility Information
- When the focus range is limited for finite distances, which means that focus is not set to infinity, the Anti-Shake is less effective. Setting the focus limiter to Full is recommended. * Focus limiter: function designed to set the drive range of a focus ring.
- The [Lens Comp] (Lens Compensation) function does not work.
- Depending on shooting conditions, the brightness of the picture may not be even.Set the [Front Curtain Shutter] function to [Off].
- When you record movies with autofocus, the operating noise of the lens may be recorded.
- There is no support for hybrid phase detection AF.


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The business of cannabis is starting to mature and the industry as a whole is gearing up for rapid expansion. This means that pharmaceutical companies, dispensaries and other cannabis-focused businesses are starting to expand their executive teams. However, finding qualified candidates is proving to be an incredibly challenging task, due to the shallow talent pool of leaders with cannabis-related experience, the volatility of the industry and its lingering public perception problems. Companies must therefore dip into other, related talent pools. Here are some factors to consider when beginning the hiring process:
Desired Experience
The ideal candidate to fill an executive role in the medical cannabis industry needs to possess a unique skill set and extensive experience. One obvious source of candidates are peopleIt is important to be resilient in the face of intense criticism and have a thick skin. Diplomatic strength is required. who have hands-on leadership credentials in the pharmaceutical industry, given the highly regulated nature of both the business and consumer sectors. Other good talent sources are the tobacco industry and consumer healthcare services (such as hospitals and other kinds of medical centers).
Due to the evolving nature of the cannabis industry and the intense scrutiny it is under, executives will need to be well acquainted with how to manage compliance with governmental regulations and keep up-to-date on upcoming rule changes and potential legislation. This is especially true for dispensaries, as they are often arriving right after a state vote occurs, leaving no room for error when it comes to knowing and adapting to a state's unique rules and regulations.
It is also important for a candidate to possess both business and consumer experience, not only on the medical and regulatory side of the business, but also the sales process. A large part of what medical executives do is indirect marketing through their interactions with people — both business affiliates and consumers. Having an executive with poor communication skills could prove to be costly down the line.
Recommended Personality Characteristics
Due to the controversial nature of the business, a potential executive needs to possess a number of characteristics or personality traits. As with other industry sectors that face similar public approbation, including the tobacco industry, it is not a job for the thin-skinned or easily discouraged. Important traits to look for include:
Flexibility: Due to the evolving nature of the industry and its rapid growth, you cannot possibly control everything and everyone. Remaining flexible is the only way to remain sane and successful during this phase of industry expansion.This ability to easily communicate with diverse audiences is a strong indicator of success.
Resiliency: The cannabis industry is often vilified, and as a result so are the businesses and employees who work in it. It is important to be resilient in the face of intense criticism and have a thick skin. Diplomatic strength is required.
Adaptability: A candidate should be comfortable and credible talking about scientific and business issues one minute, and consumer issues the next. This ability to easily communicate with diverse audiences is a strong indicator of success.
Passion: If a candidate possesses passion for the cause and the medical and therapeutic value of cannabis, there is a much greater chance that they will weather the storm. Having someone who genuinely cares will show in every facet of the way they conduct business — from discussing quality of life to discussing the scientific background to relating to patients.
Hiring at an executive level is never easy and in the case of the cannabis industry, it is infinitely more challenging than most. It is imperative to never "settle" on a candidate simply because time is an issue. Having someone on your recruiting staff, or using a professional recruiter who has deep experience in the medical, pharmaceutical or consumer healthcare industries is also helpful, as they can "speak the language" of recruits and thoroughly answer their questions. Their credibility can help a candidate determine if the cannabis industry is right for them. Finding a quality candidate who understands the industry, the regulations and has a passion for their work will serve your business well as the cannabis industry matures.


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Anti-money Laundering Policy of betonred.ng operated by DXG HOSPITALITY LIMITED
DXG HOSPITALITY LIMITED (hereinafter – «Company») has an experience in securing gaming businesses against criminal misuse and implementing wide ranging anti-fraud and anti-money laundering processes, procedures and extensive staff training programs.
Underpinning programs will be knowledge of the Proceeds of Crime Act and Money Laundering indicators usually detected in a gaming environment, particularly in a Card Not Present transactional environment.
The Company is fully aware of all aspects of the Proceeds of Crime Act and its responsibilities and is well placed to impart knowledge of Anti –Money Laundering measures and requirements having secured major remote and non-remote gaming businesses in this field.
Gaming environments are often targeted by those wishing to launder money. The speed of transactions and use of multiple payment processing options make gaming businesses especially vulnerable to this activity.
As a result, many of the initial trading and procedural decisions are either directly aimed at combating this threat or protections are enhanced as a bi-product of the overall commercial and trading approach/strategy taken by the business.
ALL staff will be given training in Money Laundering indicators such as (but not limited to):
- Unusual Betting Patterns
- Suspicious deposit and withdrawal patterns (size and frequency)
- Reliability of Card Data
- Customer verification issues and Identity Theft
- Account linkage/multiple accounting
All instances of suspected Money Laundering attempts must be reported to the MLRO but that suspicion must not be conveyed to the customer and further actions must await consents. The MLRO is then responsible for liaising with, submitting Suspicious Activity Reports. He will also ensure that appropriate registers are kept for all related reporting.
Company will implement a FULL 'Know Your Customer' policy. This will assist in tackling not just Money Laundering threats but other fraud threats generally. Customers will be advised at registration and generally on the supporting non-transactional website that the Company will utilize online verification tools and that in instances where we are not able to satisfy criteria, ID and address verification documents will be requested.
Other key decisions that will enhance these protections include setting period thresholds/velocities for withdrawals to include at outset the requirement for checks and director approval prior to processing card withdrawals and bank transfers of over 1.250.000 Nigerian Naira in one single transaction, a maximum of 3 (three) daily withdrawals and an overall maximum daily withdrawal of 3.700.000 Nigerian Naira.
Industry accepted standards that will always lead to Enhanced Due Diligence (the requirement for further proof of ID and Address) will be withdrawals in excess of 3000 EUR/1.250.000 Nigerian Naira in a single 24hour period and 9000 EUR/3.700.000 Nigerian Naira in a 90-day period. Simple online verification will NOT be acceptable in these circumstances.
The business will also not have any cash element to it, mitigating risks associated with counterfeit money.
Systems will be operating to record all transactions for an account. These account histories will be subject to a program of regular and continual checks against fraud and social responsibility indicators. Where unusual bet patterns and winning patterns are detected, these will also be cross- referenced to call history to ensure that staff are not colluding with customers or acting illicitly.
Company will also keep a register of those customers that it identifies as high risk or politically exposed. Those accounts will be subject to greater scrutiny and frequency of checks.
In general, where illegal or inappropriate behavior by staff is identified, investigatory and disciplinary procedures will follow those outlined in staff contracts as required by employment law directives and the need to use in greater propensity, measures such as suspension when for example transactional fraud is suspected and those activities form a standard part of an employee's job description.
It is essential to implement adequate monitoring procedures in any gaming business across premises, equipment, people, communications and transactions. Company will implement a range of measures and procedures to ensure security and safety in these areas.
Company has installed Call recording technology. This has multiple benefits that include:
- Staff Training
- Ensuring accuracy of bet (timing and placement) and transaction data
- Customer and Brand Reputation Protection
- Implementation of robust and frequent monitoring procedures that will guard against and deter collusion between staff and customers
The protection of data and the security of software and hardware generally are of prime concern for any business where transactions and data are recorded in a Non-Face to Face environment. Consequently, the Company will implement an overarching policy of 'Encrypt whatever can be Encrypted'. Access to Shared Drives will be strictly limited and monitored and where appropriate, password protected. Data Storage and Back-Up solutions/procedures exist to ensure that Customer Data is not accessible to outside parties and reliably prevents loss of data.
Company will be publishing General Rules, Terms and Conditions on its website. These will make specific reference to fraudulent activity, prior knowledge of a result or the likely result of an event and matters relating to match fixing and suspicious events. It will detail the actions we may take where cheating is suspected or identified and will detail the extent to which we will cooperate with regulators and sports governing bodies to tackle these matters. This will in general allow a transparent communication process with customers in these instances.
However, the Company is acknowledged that in the event that serious criminal activity is suspected or identified, it is also incumbent on them and staff that those suspected of this activity are not 'tipped off' as to those suspicions and subsequent investigations and that in some instances, alternative approaches will be required. Appropriate staff training and escalation procedures will be in place.
Company will take all necessary measures to ensure the propriety of its relationships with other businesses. This will entail a standardized due diligence approach often accompanied by Non-Disclosure Agreements where appropriate. This will require default disclosure of ownership and management structures, company incorporation details, address and contact details. Details of these investigations will be templated and records kept.


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Protect and maintain your pool
From filter, tile and surface cleaners to pool cover cleaner and preservative – keep your pool environment new and inviting! Having a regular cleaning schedule will help to keep you on track and increase the lifetime of your pool and pool equipment.
- Removes grease and oil from filter by acting as a shampoo
- Reduces maintenance costs
- Works on all filter types


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Adjusting volume for ADAPT 460
Adjusting the volume
You can adjust three independent volume settings for the headset:
- Call volume: during an active call
- Audio volume: during audio streaming
- Volume for ring tone, tones and voice prompts: in idle mode – no active call or audio streaming
- Press the Volume button to increase or decrease the volume.
- You hear a beep or double beep for maximum or minimum volume.
Alternatively you can adjust the volume on your connected device.
Adjusting the headset's microphone volume for softphones
- Initiate a call on your connected device to someone who will help you find the correct volume setting for your microphone.
- Change the microphone volume in your softphone application and/or in your PC audio application.
Muting the microphone
- Press the power button to mute or unmute the microphone.


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The threads used are Lizbeth in "Leafy Greens" and "Autumn Spice",
Yarnplayer's "Sugar Maple" and Krystledawn's "Sea Glass".
Tried this photo at an angle as we couldn't see the beads in the first photo. They're still hard to see! In the centre ring and between the small rings on the outer edge... Can you see them? They sparkle nicely in the sunshine but couldn't capture it with my camera! |
Handkerchief border tatted in Lizbeth 20 (Country Turquoise Med.) and Lizbeth 40 for the yellow. |
Doily tatted in Lizbeth size 40 |
Clicking on the picture will take you to the Youtube video. I removed the embedded version as it was smaller and the annotations were not appearing when viewing the video. |


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Mumbai (Maharashtra), July 19: Founded by Nitesh Ranglani & Parzaan Dastur, TCP created the latest ad film for the Great White Switches starring Tiger Shroff and directed by Punit Malhotra. The film personifies the features and qualities of Great White switches – high performing yet stylish – much like the brand ambassador, Tiger Shroff. Tiger's personality on screen and the best features of the product are in resonance throughout the film.
Ten Colour Productions and Shift Axis functioned as the film production wing of the campaign that planned and logistically designed the project. They brought the vision of the agency, Creative Cart to life. TCP along with director Punit Malhotra achieved a catchy yet classy visual language to bring out the aesthetics of the product. Punit was the perfect director to make the frame aspirational without losing its grounding.
TCP collaborated with Dhunji Wadia of Shift Axis to bring this vision of the brand to life. The entire ad-film is film is fast-paced, fun, and comedic, enhancing the brand personality and making it appealing for the target audience.
On working with TCP, Director Punit Malhotra: "It's been a great experience working with Nitesh & Parzaan at Ten Colour Productions. I am actually so proud of them and the work they have done! And I am excited for everyone to see the ad film we made together and hoping everyone will enjoy watching it as much as we have enjoyed making it."
Nitesh & Parzaan on working on the Ad film: "We had a great experience collaborating with GreatWhite & Tiger Shroff. He truly embodies excellence in whatever he does and his focus ensured the shoot was smooth sailing. The film concept demanded a very sophisticated visual language to bring out the aesthetics of the product, which was enabled by Punit. We had been assistant directors to Punit, a few years ago, and life came a full circle when we shook hands with him to direct our TVC! He has always been an incredible support and motivates both of us to do better"
Youtube Link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qlT9ZJ701kI


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PowerTap PowerCal Dual ANT+/BLE
The PowerCal is the world's first-ever power meter calculated from heart rate. At the time of its release, it was an incredible innovation combining two important training metrics: heart rate and power. And after all these years, the PowerCal remains as one of Powertap's most popular products, and for good reason—athletes of all kinds trust it ride after ride.
- First-ever power meter calculated from heart rate.
- Most affordable way to begin power training.
- Bluetooth Smart or ANT+ compatible.
- Signal Transmission: Bluetooth Smart (Cycling Power Service, Heart Rate Service, Device Info Service) or ANT+ (2.4 GHz)
- Operational Temperature: 0-40C/32-103F
- Battery Type: CR2032
- Battery Life: 400 Operational Hours (Bluetooth); 600 Operational Hours (ANT+)
- The PowerCal is not a waterproof device and should not be submerged in water
- PowerCal BLE is compatible exclusively with the PowerTap mobile application on iPhone 4S or higher.
- PowerCal ANT+ is compatible with android and iPhone/iPad devices with use of appropriate ANT+ adapter key
- PowerCal ANT+ is not compatible with cervos (little yellow computer) or older grey indoor cycle consoles.


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How President Obama Is Deceiving You On Tax Policy
ACRU Staff
July 31, 2012
This column by ACRU General Counsel and Senior Fellow for the Carleson Center for Public Policy (CCPP) Peter Ferrara was published July 25, 2012 on Forbes.com.
The central theme of President Obama's tax policy has been that "the rich" (whatever that is supposed to mean) do not pay their fair share of federal taxes, and the middle class pays more as a result. But the CBO just issued a new report this month that proves him grievously wrong.
"The Distribution of Household Income and Federal Taxes, 2008 and 2009," issued by CBO on July 12, reports that the top 1% of income earners paid 39% of federal individual income taxes in 2009, while earning 13% of the income. That means their share of federal income taxes was three times their share of income.
And that is down from 2007, before President Obama was even elected. In that year, after 25 years of Reagan Republican tax policies, the top 1% paid 40% of federal individual income taxes. That was more than double the 17.6% of federal individual income taxes paid by the top 1% when President Reagan entered office in 1981.
Also in 2007, again before Obama was even elected, and after 25 years of Reaganomics, the bottom 40% of income earners on net as a group paid less than 0% of federal income taxes. Instead of paying at least some income taxes to help support the federal government, the federal government paid them cash through the income tax code.
Does that reality sound like what you hear in President Obama's deceiving speeches?
CBO further reported that in 2009 the top 20% of income earners, those earning more than $74,000, paid 94% of federal individual income taxes, virtually all of the net total. That was 85% more than the share of national income they earned.
Yet, in that same year, the middle 20% of income earners, the true middle class, paid 2.7% of total federal individual income taxes on net, while earning 15% of before-tax income. And the bottom 40% of income earners, instead of paying some income taxes to support the federal government, were paid by the IRS cash equal to 10% of federal individual income taxes on net.
That means altogether the bottom 60% of income earners, which includes the middle class, paid less than 0% of total federal individual income taxes as a group on net. Instead, as a group, they received net cash payments from the IRS on net.
And for the Marxist propagandists that are paid to comment on these columns, no this does not mean I want to raise taxes on the bottom 60%. I supported all the Reagan Republican initiatives over the past generation that abolished federal income taxes on the poor, and what the Left calls the working class, and almost abolished them completely on the middle class.
That began with the Earned Income Tax Credit (EITC), which grew out of then Governor Ronald Reagan's famous testimony before the Senate Finance Committee in 1972, where he proposed exempting the working poor from all Social Security and income taxes as an alternative to welfare, with the credit serving as a way to offset payroll taxes for the poor and low income workers. As President, Reagan cut federal income tax rates across the board for all taxpayers by 25%. He also indexed the tax brackets for all taxpayers to prevent inflation from pushing working people into higher tax brackets.
In the Tax Reform Act of 1986, President Reagan reduced the federal income tax rate for middle and lower income families all the way down to 15%. That Act also doubled the personal exemption, shielding a higher proportion of income from taxation for lower income workers than for higher income workers.
Newt Gingrich's Contract with America adopted a child tax credit of $500 per child that also reduced the tax liabilities of lower income people by a higher percentage than for higher income people. President Bush doubled that credit to $1,000 per child, and made it refundable so that low-income people who do not even pay $1,000 in federal income taxes could still get the full credit. Bush also adopted a new lower tax bracket for the lowest income workers of 10%, reducing their federal income tax rate by 33%.
That is how we reached the point by 2007 where the bottom 40% of income earners as a group on net were being paid by the federal income tax code instead of paying federal income taxes. So when then candidate Obama said in 2008 that Republicans cut taxes for the rich, but haven't "given a break to folks who make less," was he ignorant or lying?
We know that when Obama's campaign today runs those silly ads all over the internet that Romney proposes to raise taxes on the middle class Obama is lying. Not only has Romney proposed no such thing, but House Republicans have already voted for Rep. Paul Ryan's tax reform plan that would cut the federal income tax rate for all families earning less than $100,000 to 10%, and Romney has endorsed that as well, consistently with the entire history of Republican tax policy cutting federal taxes for the middle class, as discussed above. The foolish Obama contributors that finance those dishonest ads should be held personally accountable.
I have even argued in print before that Republicans and conservatives should just abolish the remaining minor share of federal income taxes paid by the middle class. That would enable a rational flat tax to be adopted for the top 40% of income earners, who earn 72% of all income anyway. Then Warren Buffett would pay the same tax rate as his highly paid secretary. The last two Democrat Presidents were elected campaigning on a tax cut for the middle class, then never delivered a permanent cut after elected. But with income taxes for the middle class eliminated, that game would be over.
Republicans could still campaign for the votes of middle and lower income workers by explaining that the spending plans of liberal Democrats would ultimately require federal taxes to be reimposed on them. And that Democrat tax increases on "the rich" would just bring back the bad old days of Obamanomics, with no new jobs and declining real wages.
Left wing apologists for tax piracy argue that the above statistics only account for income taxes and not the payroll taxes that working people still do pay. But that is proper, because President Obama argues that the rich do not pay their fair share of federal income taxes, not payroll taxes, and it is federal income taxes that he is proposing to increase on those grounds, not payroll taxes. Moreover, I and other conservative Republicans have argued that payroll taxes should be phased out entirely and replaced by personal savings, investment and insurance accounts instead, relieving middle and lower income workers of those taxes entirely.
In addition, payroll taxes are paid in return for specific entitlement benefits or services, and so all should pay an equivalent amount proportionate to those benefits. The payroll tax consequently is not supposed to be progressive, and should not be.
Nevertheless, even counting payroll taxes as well as all other federal taxes, the story is the same. The "rich" and upper income workers still pay almost all federal taxes, with the middle class and lower income workers paying far lower proportions and rates.
CBO reports that in 2009, the top 1% paid over 22% of all federal taxes, while earning 13% of the income. And that is down under Obama from the nearly 27% of all federal taxes paid by the top 1% achieved by Reaganomics in 2007.
Moreover, in 2009 the top 20% paid nearly 70% of all federal taxes, while earning 50% of the income. The middle 20% of income earners, again the true middle class, paid 9% of federal taxes, less than two-thirds their share of income. The top 1% alone paid way over twice the share of total federal taxes as the entire midd
le 20%. The bottom 20% paid 0.3% of all federal taxes.
In addition, in 2009 the top 1% paid an average federal tax rate of 29%. In contrast, the middle 20% paid an average federal tax rate of only 11.1%. The bottom 20% paid an average federal tax rate of 1%. So much for Warren Buffett, who is as dishonest as President Obama on the issue, for his own selfish interests. (He runs the nation's largest tax shelter, and so expects more customers if tax rates rise on "the rich").
President Reagan was called the Great Communicator. That is because even with a Democrat controlled House of Representatives, and the bitter opposition of the Democrat controlled, so-called mainstream media, he rallied the nation to support fundamental change in federal policies that ended the stagflation of the 1970s and produced unprecedented economic growth and prosperity for a generation.
President Obama, who has done everything during his Administration exactly the opposite of President Reagan, has earned the label "the Great Deceiver." He has spent the last 3 ½ years barnstorming the nation promoting just the opposite of reality, based on what CBO has just reported. That is just more of his Calculated Deception, trying to take advantage of what he thinks most people do not know, and his party controlled "mainstream media" won't tell them. But a President who runs for reelection trying to inflame some Americans against others based on such gross dishonesty does not deserve to even be running for office, and such a campaign disgraces the Democrat Party nominating him.
Eric Hoffer famously said, "An empty head is not really empty; it is stuffed with rubbish. Hence the difficulty of forcing anything into an empty head." That accurately describes Obama's supporters today, who fanatically cling to his Through the Looking Glass perversion of reality, and will actually denounce correction. Hoffer also famously said, "Propaganda does not deceive people; it merely enables them to deceive themselves." Those who allow themselves to be deceived by President Obama's dishonest perversion of reality just reveal that they have the personal morality of pirates.


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Name | Quince L Watts |
Death Place | Loris |
Publication Title | The State |
Publication or Record Date | 16 Oct 1982 |
Publication or Record Place | Richland, South Carolina, United States |
This record is not from Ancestry and will open in a new window.
You may need to search for the record when the web page opens. For more information on web records, please visit our support page.
Source Information
Ancestry.com. Web: Richland County, South Carolina, U.S., Obituary Index, 1892-2000 [database on-line]. Provo, UT, USA: Ancestry.com Operations, Inc., 2012.
Original data: Obituary Index. Richland County Public Library. http://myrcplcomres.ipac.sirsidynix.net/ipac20/ipac.jsp?profile=main--1&menu=search&submenu=subtab30: accessed 11 April 2012.
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(Reuters) - Beverage industry groups are planning ways to oppose a proposed soda tax in the California city of El Monte because of fears other U.S. cities across America might adopt similar taxes on sugary drinks.In case you're baffled by the US system of measuring liquids, a 16 ounce drink is the equivalent of around 475ml. So, this would mean adding 16 cents to the selling price of a bottle smaller than the standard 500ml version sold in Tesco Express over here (a portion, incidentally, which is deemed as too much by New York's Mayor Bloomberg).
The El Monte city council on Tuesday approved a measure that would add a 1 cent tax for every ounce of "sugar sweetened" drinks. The proposal is scheduled to be voted on by city residents in November's election.
This, according to Cali-based jewel robber David G who pointed out the article, on top of the existing 9.5% state sales tax and 5% recycling tax. Too right the soda industry is trying to fight the idea.
Because, despite their protestations, those who dedicate their lives to pissing all over yours very much love a precedent. Just ask arch-bansturbator Simon Chapman, the geriatric control freak who conned Australia into banning colours because of his personal prejudice.
"The dominos are lining up," Chapman says, referring to the countries that are seriously considering enforcing plain packs inside their own borders. Seventeen states, including Britain, attended a recent World Health Organisation meeting in Brunei on plain packs. New Zealand will be next, then Thailand and Panama, and possibly Canada, Chapman reckons.Sure as California is home to the most sinister nest of deluded, financially-illiterate hippies in the world, once a soda tax is implemented in El Monte, it will spread like a plague.
In the digital age, some mentally-challenged MP will see the daft proposal via the medium of global kneejerk idiocy and advocate it here. Nothing will be gained for the health of the nation once a soda tax is brought in, but government will have more of your cash and further rights as to what you do with your own body.
With the Mail publishing panic-mongering rot like this, I give it five years.


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Updated December 13, 2021 at 7:16 PM ET
Officials say it could be days before the full extent of the damage from the dozens of tornadoes that hit the South and Midwest over the weekend is known, as recovery efforts continue in the wake of the historic storm.
Kentucky, Tennessee, Arkansas, Illinois, Missouri and Mississippi were struck by dozens of tornadoes Friday night and Saturday morning. It was an unusual outbreak created, in part, by unseasonably warm temperatures.
The vast majority of the destruction landed in Kentucky, where one massive twister traveled for more than 200 miles. After giving differing estimates over the weekend on the number of casualties, Kentucky Gov. Andy Beshear said Monday afternoon that 74 people in the state had been confirmed killed, while 109 remain unaccounted for.
"Thousands of homes are damaged if not entirely destroyed and it may be weeks before we have final counts on both deaths and levels of destruction," Beshear said. He cautioned residents that more deaths could be announced in the coming days as responders sort through rubble.
At least 14 people were also killed in Arkansas, Illinois, Missouri and Tennessee.
The dead include six people who were confirmed killed at an Amazon facility that was ripped apart in Illinois, and at least one person who died at a nursing home in Arkansas.
An 84-year-old woman was killed in Defiance, Mo., when her home was blown off its foundation, according to the St. Louis Post-Dispatch. A young child was also killed in the state.
The worst storms had winds of at least 111 mph
Meteorologists from the National Weather Service have offered new details on the extent and the strength of some of the tornadoes that touched down.
Tornadoes from the same storm are believed to have hit Kentucky, Arkansas, Illinois, Indiana, Mississippi, Missouri, Ohio and Tennessee, according to the National Weather Service's Storm Prediction Center.
At least four EF-3 and five EF-2 tornadoes had been confirmed in Missouri and Illinois. An EF-3 twister is considered significant or severe with wind speeds reaching between 111 mph and 165 mph.
In Kentucky alone, the towns of Bowling Green and Saloma and the area between Cayce and Beaver Creek werealso likely hit by an EF-3 tornado.
The NWS cautioned that it may be some time before the full scope of the storm's severity will be known. Their work surveying the tornado event will continue over the next few days. They face difficulties with communication outages and want to avoid interfering in search and rescue operations, the organization said.
Kentucky was the hardest hit state
Whole communities were destroyed across western Kentucky, where search and rescue efforts are underway. Nearly 450 National Guard members are helping with rescue and recovery, Beshear said.
The governor had offered varying estimates over the weekend that between 50 and 100 people had died, but on Monday morning he revised the figure to 64, and by afternoon, 74. The dead range in age from 5 months to 86 years, and six are minors, according to Beshear.
A total of 18 counties suffered damage, he said, and eight counties experienced fatalities.
Drone video on Saturday showed horrendous destruction in the small town of Mayfield, with buildings torn to pieces as far as the eye could see.
Attention centered over the weekend on the Mayfield Consumer Products candle factory, where 110 people were believed to be on the job on the night shift when a tornado hit. Pictures show it was utterly decimated.
"I was there yesterday, and it's even worse than the images," Beshear told NPR on Sunday. "It's 15 plus feet of steel, of cars that were in the parking lot that went through the roof of drums of corrosive chemicals."
According to the business, 94 employees are alive and accounted for — a much higher number than officials initially believed. Beshear said the company said eight people are dead and eight are missing, though the governor said the state is working to confirm these numbers.
"We very much hope that that is true," he said on Monday.
In Dawson Springs, the city where Beshear's father grew up, "the devastation is just indescribable," he told NPR on Sunday.
"A block from my grandparents' house — everything is just gone, gone. I'd like to say we're going door to door in places, but there are no doors. That community is going to lose a number of people," he added.
Meanwhile, thousands of people have been left homeless across the state. Emergency responders are giving out generators, meals, water, cots and blankets, while eight shelters are open in the state for people who lost their homes.
On Monday afternoon, Beshear urged people who lost homes to file claims with their insurers as well as with the Federal Emergency Management Agency. Residents should photograph as much as possible and list damaged property. "You need to document everything you possibly can," he said.
He also thanked people who had given money to relief efforts and directed those who want to volunteer to sign up through this website. "We feel your love. We feel your support," Beshear said.
Homeland Security Secretary Alejandro Mayorkas said on Sunday that FEMA will be on the ground in the state "until recovery is complete."
There is now a mountain of debris to contend with as well, which the governor said would take time to clear. About 26,500 homes and businesses are without power as of Monday afternoon, officials said. Water service is out for thousands, while cell service has been restored in some counties and is in progress in others.
Beshear declared a state of emergency Saturday morning. Hours later, President Biden approved emergency federal assistance for the state.
"The devastation is just stunning," Biden told reporters on Monday. "They've been wiped out," he said, describing the damage in Mayfield. "I worry quite frankly about the mental health of these people. What do you do? Where do you go?"
The president is expected to travel to Kentucky on Wednesday to survey the damage and meet with Beshear.
Four people are dead in Tennessee
Across the border in Tennessee, a state of emergency remains in place as responders continue the massive cleanup effort.
The National Weather Service confirmed that at least seven tornadoes touched down in Middle Tennessee early Saturday morning, according to The Tennessean.
Four people were killed in the storms, according to the Tennessee Emergency Management Agency. Two fatalities were reported in Lake County, one in Obion County and one in Shelby County.
Two of those killed were a father and son from Florida who were on a hunting trip in Lake County. Another man who was with them on the hunting trip is still missing.
On Monday, Gov. Bill Lee asked the White House to declare an emergency in Cheatham, Decatur, Dickson, Dyer, Gibson, Lake, Obion, Stewart, and Weakley counties in order to make federal aid available.
Boil water advisories remain in place in the towns of Dresden, Kenton and Samberg.
TEMA established a web page with links to resources for those needing help and those looking to provide assistance, while other resources are listed at NPR member station WPLN.
Amazon facility in Illinois was "catastrophically" damaged
The Edwardsville Police Department in Illinois reported that the tornado that hit the Amazon warehouse caused "catastrophic damage to a significant portion" of the facility.
Some 45 workers were able to escape the wreckage.
The St. Louis Post-Dispatch reported the names of those killed in the Amazon facility as Etheria Hebb, 34; Deandre S. Morrow, 28; Kevin D. Dickey, 62; Clayton Lynn Cope, 29; Larry E. Virden, 46; and Austin J. McEwen, 26.
One woman shared her harrowing tale of hiding in the warehouse bathroom as the EF-3 tornado hit and the building collapsed.
"We were just standing there talking. That's when we heard the noise. It felt like the floor started moving. We all got closer to each other. We all started screaming," Jaeira Hargrove told the Post-Dispatch.
Hargrove told the paper that emergency responders got to the scene in 10 minutes and had to cut workers out of the rubble.
Amazon said it has committed $1 million to the Edwardsville Community Foundation to support relief work.
"The news from Edwardsville is tragic. We're heartbroken over the loss of our teammates there, and our thoughts and prayers are with their families and loved ones," Amazon founder Jeff Bezos tweeted late Saturday evening.
"All of Edwardsville should know that the Amazon team is committed to supporting them and will be by their side through this crisis," he went on to say. "We extend our fullest gratitude to all the incredible first responders who have worked so tirelessly at the site."
On Monday, Illinois Gov. J.B. Pritzker issued a disaster declaration for areas affected by the storm.
Rachel Treisman contributed reporting.
Copyright 2021 NPR. To see more, visit https://www.npr.org.


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Press Safety Devices
Safety first
The TOX®-Restraint Device prevents the lowering of the ram by its own weight during maintenance or repair work. The rod variant ZHE 016 / 030 is mounted directly between base and ram plate. Its design depends on the moving mass to be supported and the clearance height. This must be taken into consideration for the dimensioning of the tool.
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This educational activity is intended for residents, fellows and attending pathologists in the division of Anatomic Pathology. The latter, in particular, are the prime target of this exercise, since the level of the discussion around the cases being presented directly impacts on their daily work and does not deal with the basics but with the intangible grey zones in diagnosis which can sometimes only be gleaned from experience (i.e., it may not be possible to find the answers to these problems in standard textbooks or other references).
AMA Credit Designation Statement:
Hours of Participation for Allied Health Professionals
- Physicians
- Physician Assistants
At the conclusion of this activity, I will be able to:
- Maintain and improve professional skills and knowledge of faculty, residents and fellows
- Obtain an understanding of clinical and basic medical training and research
- Examine and analyze patient care by reviewing and discussing difficult cases
Professor and Chairman
All persons in control of content have NO relevant financial relationships to disclosure.
In accordance with the ACCME® standard for Commercial Support Number 6, all in control of content disclosed any relevant financial relationships. The following in control of content had no relevant financial relationships to disclose.
- 1.00 AMA PRA Category 1 Credit(s)™AMA PRA Category 1 Credit(s)™
- 1.00 Hours of ParticipationHours of Participation credit.


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انواع شرط
This section does not exist yet.
To contribute tutorials, simply fork the following repository:
Then you may add or edit tutorials, and then send me a pull request.
To write a tutorial, simply create a Markdown page under the relevant directory in the tutorials
directory, and link it in the welcome screen in the relevant section. After adding it, please make sure that it linked correctly by running the Flask web server.
To link to the tutorial that you have created, create a link from the page you would like to link from (usually the Welcome.md
page) using double brackets.
Each tutorial consists of a brief explanation of the subject, and a short exercise which will test the user. Once the user has finished modifying the code according to the exercise, it should execute to print out the expected output that you will provide.
Every tutorial must have the following structure:
File name.md
Here you may write text that explains a certain feature.
Here you will need to write the purpose of the exercise. Finishing the exercise correctly
must be accomplished using the new feature that you are explaining.
Tutorial Code
Write a code block that will appear on the interpreter window. For example, you may
write an empty function, which the user must complete in order to finish the exercise.
Expected Output
Write a code block that will describe the exact output expected from the modified code,
if it has been modified correctly.
Write the solution code to the problem.


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The magician displays a small box containing a pair of scissors. He places his finger through the tube in the center of the box and cuts it in half with the scissors. But hold on to your hats: the magician then lifts the tube to show that the finger is really cut in half! The magician may use a pencil or pen borrowed from the spectator instead of his finger.
English instructions included.


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Product Description 2009 F.L.Y. Watson 138 Wakeboard:
What happens when you take our top pro model shapes and make them 5.9 lbs each? You get the most advanced and aggressive wake riding beasts available! Whether you want the all around smooth feel of a Watson, the fast and explosive feel of a Lyman, the playful yet aggressive feel of a Shane, or the aggressive yet forgiving feel of Phillip's all new S4, the F.L.Y. Series is guaranteed to take your riding to levels never experienced!
This Liquid Force wakeboard is a snappy performance machine that maintains a smooth feel. The Watson wakeboard is our most aggressive wake to wake machine that performs just as well for a legend like Shawn as it does for the average rider.
Product Specs:


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Looking for an easy fun "Snow Day" thing to do? We started this tradition many years ago when our now 10 year old was about 3 or 4. It's easy, simple, but they love it. It's Snow With Sprinkles! And it's as easy as it sounds. What You Need: 1) Fresh Snow. This should … [Read more...]
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Right at Home Pickerington
Need help right now? Call us anytime at
(614) 452-4045
What We Can Do For You
Already know which services you need?
Connect with usNot sure what types of care you need?
Let's find outImproving the Lives of Those We Serve
Our Story
Home—there's no place like it. It's where your memories are. Where you raised your family and where friends have gathered for life's celebrations. It's been your basecamp through good times and bad. And it's where you want to stay. At Right at Home, our intention is to help you do just that. Why? Because we exist to be your guide to living successfully at home, wherever home may be. It's our purpose.
Aging, disability, illness or injury can make living at home a challenge. We believe that no one should have to face the long list of complex decisions and unforeseen changes alone. We are experts, providing not just care, but coaching and experience to help navigate every step of the journey. Right at Home's trained caregivers are passionate about helping clients because they know with each life they impact, they are changing the world.
Recognized For Our Devotion To Clients and Caregivers
Our goal is not to be the biggest home care company, it's to be the best home care company. The most accurate way to measure that standard is comparing ourselves to our peers. Home Care Pulse does exactly that by speaking with our clients and caregivers, and speaking with those of other companies throughout the nation. We're honored to receive 2024's Best of Home Care Employer of Choice and Provider of Choice awards.
If you're as passionate as we are about helping people living at home stay healthy and comfortable, we want you to feel Right at Home, too. We invite you to visit our careers page.


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Are you ready to take on something really important––your career?
Without question, it takes something to have a vision and take the right actions to become the success you want to be, both personally and professionally in normal times. Imagine NOW!
Laurie Gerber, Head Coach at Handel Group®, has helped thousands of people articulate their vision for their careers in a way that inspires, bust their own excuses and negative theories, and get the tools they need to get into the right action to create the career of their dreams.
Join Laurie for this no-holds barred, narrative-changing event and create the right action plan to not only design your next career move, but ensure its success.
In this session you'll learn how to:
Articulate your career dream
Uncover what you really want & design your career
Bust your own excuses
Identify self-sabotaging inner dialogue.
Create an action plan that is a match with your new dream!


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Designated Operational Entities
What is a designated operational entity?
A designated operational entity (DOE) is an independent auditor accredited by the CDM Executive Board (CDM EB) to validate project proposals or verify whether implemented projects have achieved planned greenhouse gas emission reductions.
- Validation:assessing whether a project proposal meets the eligibility requirements and subsequently request registration of the project by the CDM EB.
- Verification/certification: verifying emission reductions from a project, certify as appropriate, and recommend to the CDM EB the amount of Certified Emission Reductions (CERs) that should be issued.
Usually, for large scale projects, a DOE may only conduct either validation or verification of the same project. However, upon request, the CDM EB may allow a single DOE to perform both functions (validation and verification/certification).
How to become a DOE?
Overview diagramme on how to become a DOE
To become a DOE an organisation has to:
- Ensure that it complies with the requirements of the CDM Accreditation Standard for DOE
- Pay the application fee
- Submit the required application forms and supporting documentation
- Be assessed by the CDM Assessment Team, CDM Accreditation Panel and CDM EB
Application for Accreditation
Follow the Accreditation Requirements
- Procedure for accrediting operational entities by the CDM EB (CDM Accreditation Procedure)
- CDM Accreditation Standard for Operational Entities (CDM Accreditation Standard)
Request Banking Information
- Banking information required for the payment of the non-reimbursable application fee may be requested from the secretariat (email@example.com), by indicating a fax number, address and a contact person to whom the information should be forwarded.
Fill and submit Application Form
- Applicant entities will be given access to the CDM accreditation web interface, the CDM Accreditation Workflow System upon request to email@example.com. The application form is filled online, through the web interface. Refer to the CDM Accreditation Procedure and to the Forms page for further details on required supporting documentation.
- Applicant entities can find more information on how to apply through the CDM Accreditation Workflow System by consulting the following user guide.
Pay Application Fee
- The non-reimbursable application fee is US$ 15,000.
- Applicant operational entities have the possibility of paying 50% of the non-reimbursable fee when applying for accreditation. The remaining 50% of the fee should be paid at a later stage once and if the operational entity is accredited and designated and starts operation.
- Please note that further costs are associated with the accreditation process in order to cover additional assessments, the details for which are described in Appendix 4 of the CDM Accreditation Procedure
Assessment process
- After payment of the fee, the assessment process is initiated. Further steps include a desk review of documents and an on-site assessment, as well as consideration of such assessments by the CDM Accreditation Panel and the CDM Executive Board.
- For further information, please refer to the CDM Accreditation Procedure and the CDM Accreditation Standard.
- For further information please do not hesitate to contact email@example.com
List of AEs
The CDM accreditation procedure provides an opportunity for the Parties, accredited NGOs and stakeholders to provide input on the applicant entities seeking accreditation with the CDM EB. The following page lists all applicant entities and allows to submit public input on the new applicant entities and to view the inputs received in the past. more »
List of DOEs
The Executive Board, in accordance with paragraph 20 of the CDM modalities and procedures, shall mantain a publicly available list of designated operational entities. The following page will provide you with the list of accredited and provisionally designated DOEs for validation functions. These entities are accredited for the sectoral scopes shown below in the table and qualify to submit requests for project registration and issuance of CERs in these sectoral scopes. more »
Potential applicant entities should send email to email@example.com


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The rental market of today offers plenty of properties to suit the tastes of both city lovers and suburbanites. Renters just have to work out which location and lifestyle suits them best.
Is your dream rental property a cool townhouse in the heart of a vibrant city center? Or are you more suited to the more relaxed lifestyle and spacious properties available in the suburbs?
The suburbs versus the city has been debated by potential renters for decades. The suburbs tend to offer better schools, more space, and peace and quiet, while the city offers unmatched convenience, exciting city culture, and the cool factor of living in the heart of the metropolis.
Each location has positives and negatives to mull over. The most important factor is to choose the neighbourhood that best suites you and your lifestyle.
Monthly rental costs
Living in the city is very popular with today's renters and the cost of renting a property downtown may seem more expensive than suburbia. However, surprisingly the average monthly rent of an urban property, $1,640, is actually cheaper than the average cost of renting a property in a suburban area, $1,695.
The monthly rental cost obviously depends on the location, some cities cost much more to live in an urban area.
How much space for your money: inside and out
Per square foot, the suburbs offer more space for your money. Urban properties cost $1.22 per square foot, while the suburbs are cheaper with an average cost of $1.04.
How much space do you need and how many rooms do you require? Do you want a spacious kitchen to prepare meals, or will a compact kitchen suffice. Do you mind having neighbours below and either side of your home, or do you require a more private property location?
Outdoor space is also a consideration. Urban apartments sometimes have a rooftop deck and a small pool, but suburban properties often have much more, and larger, outdoor facilities.
Do you like the idea of enjoying a sunny afternoon in your own spacious back yard, or is the idea of lounging on a balcony and watching the bustling city life below more appealing?
City homes don't often include large private areas. However, you will be close by to the large public parks, museums and other exciting city locations to visit.
Transport and commuting
Do you own a vehicle? Do you like being able to walk to the shops, cafes, or the local bar?
These are considerations that you should take into account when deciding where you wish to rent. In the suburbs, a car can be essential and the costs of fuel and upkeep should be factored in. How long will it take you to drive to work and transport connections for commuting?
Parking is cheaper in the suburbs than in the city, but most city dwellers often do not need a car. Most urban areas have great public transport options and can be cheaper and often quicker than traveling by car.
Suburban and city schools
If you have children that attend school, this can be a major factor in your decision. On average, schools in suburbia tend to be regarded as better than schools in the city. However, this can vary by location and private schooling is an option if you can afford it.
Lifestyle choices
In the past, the suburbs used to lack the culture and shopping centers of the city, but times have changed and the suburbs offer much more than they use to.
Today's suburbs, especially suburban areas close to big cities, have been developing into centers for shopping, eating, and more active pursuits.
You need to decide what best suits your lifestyle. Do you want to be within easy travelling distance of first class museums and vibrant late night music and entertainment areas? If you do, the city is probably a better fit for you.
However, if you're more interested in restaurants and visiting cultural hubs every now and again, the suburbs may be more suited to you and your lifestyle.
Whether you are attracted to the bright lights of the bustling city, or the peace and quiet and white picket fences of suburbia, you have a lot of factors to consider before making your decision. Decide on the necessities for your home and local area, and what you would like from the location. Once you know what you want and need, you can find the property that is suited to your city life or suburban lifestyle.
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I've said it time and again that I have the most unsightly underyes ever. They get even more hideous, thanks to my insomnia and Kdrama addiction. After reading all the good points of this product from other bloggers, I wanted to give the Benefit Erase Paste a try.
A few weeks ago, I had the honor of becoming the first mommy blogger to collaborate with Stuff in Style - an online haven of cosmetics and beauty products. Mommy Windy, the mompreneur behind this successful online store, sent products for me to try. Inside the package was an Urban Decay Ammo Eyeshadow Palette and this.
The Benefit Erase Paste - a brightening camouflage for eyes and face. Inside the box is a 4.40g bottle of the product and an instructional leaflet. From what I know, there's supposed to be a tiny spatula included, but I couldn't seem to find anywhere. Not sure if I dropped it on the bedroom floor while opening the package, or if the spatula wasn't there to begin with.
Apply the Erase Paste on those horrible undereyes.
Blend, blend, blend... and voila!
Other US-brand cosmetics such as Urban Decay, Smashbox, MAC, Nars, Revlon, and Maybelline are also available. Baby products in-store, too!


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Divine Abundance oracle cards, Tosha Silver
Tosha Silver's message about money is counterintuitive, fresh, and different from the norm. So many people push toward their goals, chase the means to meet their needs, and yearn for an ever-elusive feeling of security. Fear and worry are constant. Tosha takes a radical new approach- offer those desperate wishes and financial fears directly to Love, to the Divine itself-whatever that means to you. The result can bring freedom, spaciousness, and yes, even a sense of security unavailable any other way. Aligning with Divine Source as the foundation of All is the key.
This beautiful deck offers a practical, soulful way to put Tosha's teachings into practice. Drawing inspiration from her book It's Not Your Money, the deck contains 51 quotes that will help you reflect on your relationship to money, career, and abundance. Your own heart will guide you to the message you need that day, helping you receive and live these liberating concepts more completely. As you work with the cards, you'll find your mind expanding so that you can truly 'be' abundance rather than just chase it