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Our Everest Base Camp Trek + Island Peak Climb in Nepal is the best of the Everest region, a spectacular lodge to lodge trek through some of the most breathtakingly beautiful landscapes in the Nepal Himalaya, with the world's highest 8000 meter peaks soaring majestically far over head! The ultimate Himalayan views are earned after the ascent of Island Peak (6173m), situated right in the middle of this amphitheater of Himalayan peaks!
Our Everest Base Camp Trek + Island Peak Climb begins with the exciting flight to the Hillary Airport in Lukla. Although climbing Island Peak is often the goal of the trek, there are MANY other highlights! Hiking the beautiful Chhukhung valley and climbing Chhukhung Ri (5565m) for awesome views of Makalu + other Himalayan peaks, the trek to Ama Dablam Base Camp, trekking along the Khumbu Glacier to Everest Base Camp + the Everest ice fall, + climbing Kala Pattar (5640m) for awesome, in-your-face Everest views. The remote Kongma La pass (5540m) with its hidden lakes. Remote routes to Phortse + Pangboche offer more great Himalayan views, rare bird and wildlife sightings, as well as some of the Khumbu's most traditional Sherpa villages. The colorful market at Namche Bazaar is another highlight of this incredible Himalayan journey.
Our Everest treks are windows into traditional Sherpa villages and Tibetan Buddhist gompas (monasteries), their mountain Buddhist culture and the Sherpas' sacred peaks and valley. Our Everest treks are led by qualified, local Sherpa guides who love the Himalaya and have called the Khumbu region home for centuries. With their local knowledge and English, they help to provide an enriching and safe experience in the mountains. The Everest trek, hosted by Sherpas in their wonderful lodges, is a window into traditional Sherpa villages and their Tibetan Buddhist gompas (monasteries), mountain Buddhist culture and the Khumbu Sherpas' sacred peaks and valleys. Renown for the highest Himalayan peaks in the world, the Everest region is an incredibly spiritual region, where we can visit its many colorful Buddhist gompas, and chat with the monks of Pangboche, Namche, Khumjung, Khunde + Tengboche Gompas.
Why Trek + Climb in the Everest Region with Kamzang Journeys?
The Kamzang Journeys team have 20 years of trekking experience in the Everest (Solu Khumbu) region. Kim (Kamzang Journeys) first trekked in the Everest region in the 90s, later teaching English in the Everest region. Lhakpa Sherpa (Khumbu Adventures) comes from Thame, his wife Doma's family is from Pangboche, and their relatives own many of the lodges in the Khumbu. We have numerous Sherpa friends + contacts in the region, lots of invaluable support throughout the Everest trek! Our staff all come from the Solu Khumbu region, along the Jiri to Lukla trail, now known as the Hillary + Norgay Everest Trek.
Our climbing guides are local Sherpa climbers, all of whom have climbed Everest, and know their stuff!
Kamzang Journeys has perhaps the safest acclimatization schedule in the Khumbu, with a local, qualified and friendly Sherpa guide leading your trek. Our Everest treks focus on cultural immersion as well as Himalayan peaks, and we often visit Sherpa houses for a cup of 'chang' or salt butter tea. We have a nearly perfect record of mountain safety, and back up support from Khumbu Adventures in case of any mishaps. Choose from the extensive lodge menus for all meals, which are accompanied by a choice of herbal teas, hot drinks and freshly brewed coffee. Our water is filtered using an MSR or Katadyn water filter.
Early Spring or late Autumn are the perfect times to trek in the Everest region, the Himalayan peaks accentuated by clear, blue skies, without the hoards of trekkers during the peak months. Wildlife such as the Himalayan thar, musk deer, danphe (Nepal's national bird), blood pheasant, Himalayan snow-cock, snow-pigeon and chukkar roam the mountain sides.
Mountain views don't get any better than trekking in the Khumbu region of Nepal! Join us for this unforgettable trek through Nepal's spectacular Everest region ...
Customize Your Journey
We are happy to customize your journey to include more days in Kathmandu, Chitwan National Park or Pokhara.
Inquire for HELICOPTER options!
photo credit - Breck O'Neill
Day 1 - Arrive Kathmandu
Day 2 - Kathmandu
Day 3 - Fly Lukla. Trek Monjo
Day 4 - Trek Namche Bazaar
Day 5 – Namche Bazaar
Day 6 - Trek Khunde
Day 7 - Trek Phortse
Day 8 – Trek Pangboche
Day 9 - Trek Dingboche
Day 10 - Dingboche | Acclimatization Day Climb
Day 11 - Trek Lobuche
Day 12 - Trek Gorak Shep | Climb Kala Pattar
Day 13 - Trek Lobuche | Day Hike Everest Base Camp
Day 14 – Trek Chhukhung | Cross Kongma La Pass
Day 15 - Trek Island Peak Base Camp
Day 16 - Climb Island Peak (6173m). Trek Base Camp
Day 17 - Trek Chhukhung
Day 18- Trek Tengboche
Day 19 - Trek Namche Bazaar
Day 20 - Trek Lukla
Day 21 - Fly Kathmandu
Day 22 - Trip Ends
+ Inquire for HELICOPTER options!
Chitwan National Park | Maruni Sanctuary Lodge
Chitwan + Tharu Villages Wildlife Safari
+ Upgrade to Tharu Lodge Chitwan (+$300 Per Room)
Add Ons | Per Person
+ Kathmandu World Heritage Sightseeing Tour | Pashupatinath, Boudhanath + Swayambunath (+$75)
+ Kathmandu Durbar Square Walking Tour | Durbar Square (+$50)
+ Bhaktapur Heritage Sightseeing Tour (+$100)
+ Patan Heritage Sightseeing Tour (+$50)
+ Extra Day Chitwan (+$125)
+ Everest Sightseeing Flight (+$250)
+ Everest Sightseeing Helicopter Tour (+ $Inquire)
+ Shivapuri Heights Cottage (+ $Inquire)
+ Cycling Trip in Kathmandu Valley (+Trip Price)
Watch an Everest Video!
Everest High Passes Trek | Adam D on Vimeo
Nepal Modules
Nepal & Kathmandu Modules | Customize Your Trip!
Travel Advice
+ We strongly recommend scheduling an extra day in Kathmandu post trek in case of flight delays or cancellations out of Lukla!
+ Purchase travel insurance with helicopter evacuation!
+ Purchase trip cancellation + travel insurance!
Trekker Highlights + Reviews
Trekkers' Comments
Trek Highlights
- Sublime Himalayan Views Fom Summit of Island Peak
- Qualified Sherpa Climbing Guide
- Everest Base Camp Trek + the Khumbu Icefall
- Kala Pattar + Chukhung Ri Peaks
- Kongma La Pass
- Ama Dablam Base Camp
- Chhukhung Valley + Chhukhung Peak
- Pangboche, Namche, Tengboche + Khumjung Monasteries
- Cozy, Traditional Sherpa Lodges
- Rhododendron Season in Spring
- Awesome Trekking + Climbing in the Nepal Himalaya!
Client Comments
Kim and her colleages at Khumbu Adventures arranged a solo trek for me at very short notice in November 2013 - and did it even whilst most of them were leading another trek in Mustang! They made the complex easy. From a wonderful guide to helping me arrange evacuation when I got sick, I was always in knowledeable, kind, efficient hands. I recommend Kamzang Journeys without reservation and I'll be using them when I return to Nepal in September 2014!
- Nick A (UK), Private Everest Trek 2013
Tsering Sherpa is marvelous, extremely responsible, serious, devoted, very thoughtful, discreet and very pleasant to trek with. He is very helpful, well travelled, speaks good English, is well-mannered and has a good experience as a mountaineer and a climber. He is very powerful, strong and quick, and smiles a lot! He seems to know everybody on the trail, is active in his community and is respected by other Sherpas. On trek he was a good counsellor on food, and of course respectful of tradition and of the Tibetan Buddhist faith. With him we felt very secure as he knows the trail and all the short cuts.
- Nan & Odette (France), Private Everest Base Camp Trek 2014
Viney was my private guide to trek to Everest base camp in October 2013. I felt very secure with him the entire time. He was always attentive to my wellbeing from the time we started in x (kim pls fill in) where we ended up slogging through rainfall and mud due to the cyclone left over from India, all the way through to the end of our trip in Lukla. I could count on him without a doubt every day of the entire 3 weeks we spent together. Thanks to Viney for an excellent trek!
- Lori C (USA), Private Everest High Passes Trek 2014
Last May I spent almost three weeks hiking with Mingma in the Khumbu region of Nepal and we explored the Gokyo lakes, Gokyo valley and we climbed Gokyo Ri. Mingma is an experienced mountain-guide, knows all the summits in the region, the Sherpas and routes. He is responsive of the challenges, strong and kind, but he is very calm in case of difficult situations. While we walked together, he was attentive and he always tried to accommodate my phyisical condition and my spiritual eagerness. We spent wonderful time together and I immensely enjoyed every moment of the trek. I am planning to walk with him again in 2015!
- Kati K (Hungary), Private Gokyo Lakes Trek 2014
Tashi was the perfect guide for me. I was going solo, and looking mostly for solitude; Tashi's temperament was the perfect match for mine. When he had something to say, it seemed eerily to come right when I was about to ask him a question about the very thing he started to speak about! He has a real passion for the natural world he lives in and for the Sherpa people and their traditions, too. I ended up falling ill with something and here again Tashi was the perfect guide - helpful but not smothering or overly-solicitous. I will be back, and with my family and I'm certain to request that Tashi accompanies us when we return.
- Nick A-H (UK), Private Everest Base Camp Trek 2013
Kim Bannister Photo Gallery | Trip + Trek Photos
Kim Bannister Photography
Kamzang Journeys | Country + Regional Photos
Kamzang Journeys Photos
Kamzang Journeys Group Photos
Group Photos
Himalayan Photos
Himalayan Wildlife Photos
Market + Street Food Photos
Asian Markets + Street Food
Travel Reading | Enhance Your Trip!
Travel Books
Online Articles + Documentaries on Everest Region
Glacier Works - David Breshear's Interactive Site
1953: First Footsteps - Sir Edmund Hillary & Tenzin Norgay - National Geographic Adventure
Sherpas | The True Heroes of Mount Everest - Film
On Mount Everest, Sherpa Guides Bear the Brunt of the Danger - NPR
Lakes Expanding Dangerously in Everest Glacier - BBC
Rivers of Ice - Vanishing Glaciers - BBC
Everest - National Geographic Adventure
Climbing Everest Then & Now - National Geographic Adventure
Everest Revealed: Photos by Renan Ozturk - National Geographic Adventure
Flying a Drone at Everest - Himalayan Aerials
The Everest Avalanche 2014 - YouTube
Living Through the Himalayan Thaw - Himalayan Times
Nepal Quake Caused Minimal Damage to Everest Trails - Reuters
Nepal Before & After the Earthquake - New York Times
Jan Morris: No One Else Needs to Climb Everest - New Statesman
Airport Near Everest is its own Perilous Adventure - New York Times
Sherpa - They Die, We Go Home - New York Times
On Mount Everest - Surviving and Earthquake & an Avalanche - New York Times Lens Blog
Climate Model Suggests Glaciers Could Nearly Disappear - New York Times
Forty Years of Everest - YouTube
Trek + Climb Dates
Custom Departures
22 Days
Trek + Climb Price
1 Person - $3980
2 People - $3680
3 People - $3480
4+ People - $3280
+ Single Supplement Hotels - $150
Royalties + Sherpa Insurance Cost
Climbing Royalties +$250 Spring | +$125 Autumn | +$70 Winter + Summer (Per Person)
Sherpa Insurance + $200 (Per Sherpa)
Helicopter Options
Helicopter from Namche or elsewhere available. Price dependent on number of passengers
- Kathmandu Guest House
- Lukla flights
- Departure taxes
- Airport pick-ups & drops
- Sagarmatha National Park entrance fee
- Island Peak climbing permit
- TIMS card
- Kamzang Lodge-style Trekking:
All meals from lodge menu, herbal teas and French press coffee, hot drinks (hot chocolate, lemon tea, milk tea, etc), filtered drinking water, double rooms at good lodges, small medical kit, Sherpa guide & porters, local support in the Khumbu with our network of Sherpa connections, office support in Kathmandu, local knowledge ....
- Island Peak Climb: Qualified Sherpa guide, base camp support & logistics, climbing ropes, snow bar & Sherpa's climbing equipment & insurance
- International flights
- Nepal visa
- Personal climbing equipment (crampons, ice axe, harness, plastic boots, ascender/jumar, carabiners, helmet)
- Travel or travel medical insurance
- Rescue Service (cost)
- Helicopter shuttle to or from Lukla in case of flight cancellation
- Meals in Kathmandu (while not on trek)
- Equipment rental
- Alcohol & soft drinks
- Showers
- Hot water bottles
- Boiled drinking water
- Laundry
- Tipping & other items of a personal nature
Tips & Extra Cash
Allow approx $250 for meals (while not on trek), drinks & snacks (on trek). We recommend $200 per trekker thrown into the tips pool for the trekking crew & climbing staff.
Trekker's Comments
Travel Books
Trek Guide
Doma, Tshering or Phu Tashi Sherpa
Climbing Guide
Gyurme Sherpa or Vinek Malla
Kamzang Journeys Contact
Kim Bannister
Mobile: +(977) 9803414745
On-Trek Satellite Phone: +88216 21277980 (Nepal)
On-Trek Satellite Phone: +88216 21274092 (Tibet & India)
Kathmandu Contact
Khumbu Adventures
Lhakpa Dorji Sherpa Mobile: +(977) 9841 235461, 9813 371542
Doma Sherpa Mobile: +(977) 9841 510833, 9803 675361
Follow Us on Facebook
Kamzang Journeys Facebook
Arrival Hotel
Kathmandu Guest House
Kathmandu Guest House Single or Double Upgrades | 3 Nights
Garden Single - $75
Deluxe Single or Double - $300
Kathmandu Guest House Extra Nights
Includes breakfast + 25% taxes
Book with Kamzang Journeys + save on room rates
Kathmandu Guest House | Room Prices
Standard Single - $80
Standard Double - $100
Garden Single - $120
Garden Double - $140
Deluxe Single - $200
Deluxe Double - $220
Kamzang Journeys | Room Prices
Standard Single - $55
Standard Double - $75
Garden Single - $80
Garden Double - $100
Deluxe Single - $160
Deluxe Double - $180
Extra Days in Kathmandu | Customize your Journey!
We have plenty of great suggestions for extra days, or weeks, in Nepal! See our Nepal & Kathmandu Modules | Customize Your Trip! to put together the perfect journey.
Mountain biking, rafting, vespa tours or yoga retreats around the Kathmandu valley or Pokhara, trips to Bhaktapur or Patan (Kathmandu Valley's other historic capital cities), a visit to the Newari temple of Changu Narayan and a night at the Fort Hotel in Nagarkot for sublime Himalayan panoramas, an Everest sightseeing flight, a luxurious stay at Temple Tree Resort & Spa, paragliding, hiking or zip-lining in Pokhara, a spa & wellness getaway at Dwarikas Resort in Dhulikhel, a relaxing excursion to Chitwan National Park Wildlife Safari & Tharu Villages (staying at Maruni Sanctuary Lodge) or Bardia National Park, a weekend of adventure, sauna and pampering at The Last Resort or five-star treatment in historic Dwarika's in Kathmandu.
Kamzang Journeys can customize any of these excursions for you, just inquire!
Kathmandu Heritage + Happenings
Photo Gallery | Trip + Trek Photos
Kim Bannister Photography
You can get your Nepal visa either at the airport (or any land border) when you arrive in Nepal, or before you leave home.
Nepal Visa
Health Information
Nepal Health Information
Notes on Itinerary
Although we try to follow the itinerary below, it is ONLY a guideline based on years of experience trekking in the Himalaya. At times local trail, river or weather conditions may make a deviation necessary; rivers may be impassible, snow blocks passes, and landslides wipe out trails. The trekking itinerary and campsites may also vary slightly depending on the group's acclimatization rate or sickness.
The Himalaya are our passion, and we take trekking seriously. Although everyone is here on vacation, please come with a dollop of patience and compassion added to your sense of adventure ...
Arrival Kathmandu
You'll be met at the airport by Lhakpa or Doma Sherpa (of Khumbu Adventures) or the Kathmandu Guest House van. They will bring you back to the wonderful Kathmandu Guest House, where your rooms have been booked for you.
NOTE: Let us know if you would prefer to book an alternative hotel for the start of the trip or instead of the Kathmandu Guest House We can also provide a range of boutique and luxury hotels, or budget hotels.
Arrival Hotel
Kathmandu Guest House
You can get your Nepal visa either at the airport (or any land border) when you arrive in Nepal, or before you leave home.
Nepal Visa
Temperatures + Clothing
Kathmandu during trekking season, in the spring and autumn, is usually warm (t-shirt, sandals, light pants or skirts) during the day, and gets chilly (light fleece or windproof top) in the afternoon. Nights can be cold enough for a sweater or light jacket, or warm enough for t-shirts. Summer is hotter and wetter; you'll need a rain jacket and umbrella. The winter months (November – March) are chilly in the mornings and evenings, cold enough that you might start the day in a down jacket, but often warms up enough to wear a t-shirt by mid-day. Nights get cold enough for a down jacket if you're sitting outside in the spring and autumn, and much colder in the winter when you won't leave the hotel without your down jacket. It never snows in Kathmandu, leave your snow boots behind. Keens or lightweight sandals great for wandering around Kathmandu, and for trekking in lower altitudes.
Trekking is a mixed bag of temperatures. LAYERS are the key as hot can change quickly to freezing crossing the passes and snowfalls are common. We often have some rain below 3000 meters in the spring and early autumn, and it can rain hard in the summer. Have a wide range of layer-able trekking clothes for summer to winter temperatures. Keep a lightweight down jacket or synthetic jacket with you at all times, available inexpensively in Kathmandu. A lightweight rain poncho and umbrella for trekking recommended spring and summer. Be prepared! See our GEAR LIST for full details on gear, shoes, clothing, electronics and meds for the trek.
There are lots of real gear shops (North Face, Mountain Hardwear, Marmot, Sherpa Gear) and of course many fake ones in Kathmandu, so if you don't think you have the right gear starting the trip it will be easy to pick-up stuff once in Kathmandu. We have sleeping bags, duffel bags down jackets to rent.
Dress conservatively in Kathmandu and on the trail as a rule. Shorts are okay if they aren't too short, mini skirts aren't recommended. Sleeveless t-shirts are absolutely fine, but perhaps avoid tank-tops on the trail. Super tight doesn't go over so well with the village elders. Many of the younger generation in Nepal wear modern Indian or Western-influenced clothes, but remember that you haven't signed up for a beach or surf vacation. Use your good judgment, be an ambassador for western tourists! Please ask Kim or your guide if unsure about appropriate clothing.
Duffel Bags
We have North Face style duffel bags with Kamzang Journeys logos for sale (XL, orange). They are (mostly) waterproof, mid to lightweight (lighter than North Face) and good quality. Price 4000 NRP (about $40)
Cultural Issues
Nepalis are very open and welcoming, but there are a few issues you should be aware of to make your stay in Nepal more fulfilling. Use your right hand to pass things, shake hands or do most anything. Left hands are somewhat taboo. Nepali's often place their left hand on the right forearm when passing things to others, a sign of respect. Best not to pat kids on heads, or point feet ahead of you at monasteries. Don't walk over someone's legs or feet, but put your hand down in front of you to signal them to pull their legs to the side. Take off shoes and hats when going into Buddhist monasteries and Hindu temples, don't use flashes inside monasteries or temples in general, be respectful of a puja (prayer ceremony) if attending one. You can talk, all religious are very tolerant, but be aware of your level of voice.
Nepalis don't anger quickly, so try not to raise your voice if exasperated or angry as it only will make a situation worse. Do bargain at shops, with taxis and rickshaws, but don't fleece them. They are poor and making a living, generally.
Give small donations on the streets if you choose, but try not to encourage begging too much. Be aware of who you are giving money to, and please only give small amounts. If you do want to donate to a cause, ask about our Kamzang Fund or other responsible organizations.
Pampering Yourself in Kathmandu
We're happy to book your rooms before or after the trek (or upgrade during the trek) at other boutique or luxury hotels in Kathmandu. We recommend Dwarika's, Shangri-La, Yak & Yeti or Hyatt. We can also direct you to wonderful spa & massage centers in Kathmandu.
Tips for Staff
We recommend at least $200 per person to go into the tip pool for the staff. Please bring Nepali Rupees (NRP) with you on the trek for the tips. It's nice to buy the staff drinks on the last night. Or any other night that you feel like getting them a bottle of Kukure Rum!
Tips in General
Tips are always appreciated but they don't need to be extravagant. 100 NRP to carry bags to/from your room is fine. The women who clean your room will be happy with 100-200 NRP when you leave, and 100 NRP is good for drivers to/from the airport. Round up taxi fares. A larger tip would be expected for a daytrip in a car, perhaps 500 NRP. 10% is included in most restaurant and hotel bills in Nepal, and if it's not included it's still expected. Check your bills, and still round up at restaurants. Feel free to give out small change to the beggars in the streets (5, 10, 20 NRP) but try not to give it out to the street kids who use it for glue to sniff.
Cash + ATMs
You'll want some cash with you on the trek for drinks, snacks, beer, sodas, etc. There are often chances to during the trek, and usually local crafts to buy en route. (You'll want your tip money in NRP as well). There are ATMs in KTM but they don't dispense large amounts of cash (usually 10-20,000 NRP) so you'll be best with currency or TCs to change.
International Medical Center Kathmandu
Kathmandu + Kathmandu Valley Information
Our personalized 'Insider' list of things to do, places to go, what to visit, the most happening restaurants + the best hotels in Kathmandu and the beautiful Kathmandu Valley.
Kathmandu Heritage + Happenings
Travel Photography Gear Guide
The Complete Guide to Gear for the Landscape Photographer
Climbing Gear
For Island Peak + trekking peaks
Climbing Sherpa, Sherpa insurance & gear allowance, porters, camp & meals at base camp, climbing rope, snow bar & ice-screws (to fix ropes).
Bring or Rent
Ice Axe, Crampons, Plastic Boots (or good Leather boots), Light Climbing Harness, Jumar, Belay Device/Figure 8, 2 Locking Carabiners & 2 Ordinary Carabiners & Gaitors.
Gear List
This is a guideline, not a bible, for the gear you will need on the trek. Ask if you have questions! One 15 kg (33 lbs) maximum weight limit for the duffel bag for flights. 20 kg (50 lbs) weight limit for treks.
- Duffel Bag
- Day Pack (35-45 L)
- Sleeping Bag (-20F/-30C recommended)
- Down Jacket
- Trekking Boots
- Crocs (evenings & washing)
- Trekking Pants (2-3)
- T-Shirts (3)
- Long-sleeve Trekking Shirts (2-3)
- Trekking Jacket
- Gortex (or similar) Jacket & Pants
- Fleece or Thermal Top (evenings)
- Fleece or Thermal Bottoms (evenings)
- Lightweight Long Underwear (to sleep in or layer under clothes)
- Socks (5)
- Gloves (lighter & heavier for passes)
- Wool Hat
- Baseball Cap or Wide-brimmed Hat
- Camp Towel
- Trekking Poles (optional, recommended)
- Down Booties (optional, recommended)
- Sunglasses (2)
- Water Bottles | Nalgenes (2-3)
- Bladder (optional, recommended)
- Toiletries, Sunscreen with SPF, Lip Balm with SPF
- Watch (with alarm)
- Extra Batteries
- Battery Chargers
- Head Lamp (2)
- Yak Trax (for treks with icy passes)
- Water Purifying Tablets, Small Water Filter or Steripen
- Camp Washing Bowl (optional, collapsible for clothes)
- Laundry Detergent (Kathmandu) or Bio-degradable Clothes Soap
- Hand Sanitizer
- Small Solar Panel (optional, recommended for iPods, iPhones, camera batteries, Kindles)
- Book(s)
- Zip-Lock | Plastic Bags
- Soft Toilet Paper | Tissues (we supply toilet paper but you will want something softer for blowing your nose)
- Baby-Wipes | Wet-Wipes (for personal cleaning)
- Handi-Wipes, J-Cloth or Chux (optional: easy for a quick daytime clean, fast drying)
- Rehydration | Electrolytes
- Snacks!
- Personal Medical Supplies
Available in Namche Bazaar
- Snacks, chocolate bars, energy bars (Western brands), dried fruit & nuts
- Laundry Detergent
- ALL trekking gear (Sherpa Gear, Mountain Hardwear, Tsetang's Gear Shop all have real gear), real & knock-offs.
- Lemon Tang (for water if you want)
- Batteries
- Trekking Poles
- Micro Spikes
Medical Supplies
We strongly suggest bringing Western meds with you as there are a lot of Indian fakes on the market!
Suggested: Diamox, Azithromyacin, Ciprofloxacin, Tinidazole or Flagyl & Augmentin. Bring COMPEED for covering blisters & good tasting electrolytes &/or rehydration salts (Emergen-C is a good American brand). The local versions aren't very appealing.
We also recommend bringing strong knee & ankle supports & braces, ACE bandages for sprains & strains, Tegaderm &/or other would coverings. Duct tape is always useful. We're happy to take excess medical supplies off your hands when you leave if you won't need them and pass them on to others. We use lots of the large amount we have with us to treat locals we meet when trekking.
Comments on Gear
Layers are essential for trekking. Quality is more important than quantity. It's worth investing in the great, newer lightweight trekking gear available in all gear shops, online or in Kathmandu.
Kim's Gear Suggestions: I generally wear a trekking t-shirt, light trekking pants, a mid-weight shirt, a lightweight synthetic jacket (instead of a fleece) and carry a lightweight wind jacket and pants for wind and rain. If the weather looks stormy, or if it's a pass day, I carry a lightweight down jacket and a storm-weight jacket. I always have a pair of lightweight gloves (heavier ones additionally for pass days), a hat, a baseball cap and an extra pair of socks in my day-pack. I generally trek in low Merrill hiking shoes or Salomon running shoes, and wear Keen boots on very cold days and over passes. I always carry Crocs with me in case of river crossings and to give feet a break at lunch. I carry a 35-40 L Black Diamond or Osprey day pack. On pass days I carry Yak Trax and trekking poles, and I always have an extra pair of sunglasses, electrolytes, my camera, a medical kit, a SteriPen, snacks and water in my day pack. My favorite gear brands available in Kathmandu are Sherpa Gear, Mountain Hardwear and Marmot. I wear a lot of Patagonia gear although it's not available in Kathmandu.
Good trekking boots are essential. High boots are best, but you don't need climbing or plastic boots (for mini-crampons or micro-spikes). You can also get away with low, sturdy trekking boot. Trekking poles are not required but strongly recommended, especially for going down passes which are often steep and icy and for treks with river crossings. Bring gators if you tend to use them but they're not required if you don't own a pair. Micro-spikes (mini-crampons) or YakTraxs are almost always useful (or essential) for the pass crossings. We will have at least one ice ax with us. It's also good (possibly essential) to have a pair of plastic Crocs for washing and to wear in the lodges in the evenings. Tevas take a long time to dry and are relatively heavy.
Good, polarized sunglasses are essential. Do bring an extra pair. Don't forget a sun hat and/or a baseball cap, an extra headlamp and have plenty of sunscreen and lip balm with SPF! Bring extra large plastic bags or stuff-sacks in case of rain. You can pack electronics in them or stash your sleeping bag and clothes. The weather is very changeable in the Himalaya! We supply covers that go over the duffel bags to protect them from rain, dirt & rips.
Nights (in the rooms) are cold, so a down jacket and a WARM sleeping bag are essentials. Quits are usually provided as well. For your sleeping bag, we recommend a DOWN bag of 0 to -20 F (-18 to -28 C). Mine is -20 F. At lower altitudes I open it and sleep under it like a quilt and up higher am toasty warm during the cold nights. Rentals available.
Inside the lodge dining rooms, the wood or yak-dung stoves heat the room very well and you'll often strip down to a t-shirt!
Nights (in the rooms) are cold, so a down jacket and a WARM sleeping bag are essentials. Quits are usually provided as well. For your sleeping bag, we recommend a DOWN bag of 0 to -20 F (-18 to -28 C). Mine is -20 F. At lower altitudes I open it and sleep under it like a quilt and up higher am toasty warm during the cold nights. Rentals available.
Inside the lodge dining rooms, the wood or yak-dung stoves heat the room very well and you'll often strip down to a t-shirt!
Day Pack
We recommend a 25-35 liter day pack (ask at your gear shop if you're not sure of the capacity). Most have internal water bladders built in, which are good for ensuring that you stay hydrated. Make sure it fits and is comfortable before purchasing!
In your day pack you will carry your camera, water, snacks, lightweight wind & rain pants, hat, light gloves, sunscreen, electrolytes. hand sanitizer, a pack-cover and sometimes your lightweight down jacket. Recommended to carry your Crocs to give feet a break mid-day. Water purifying tablets, filter or SteriPen optional. Go as light as possible with your day pack.
We bring MSF water filters along on the trek for fresh drinking water, ecologically the best way to get water in the Himalaya's fragile trekking regions. Bring your own filter pump, SteriPen or iodine tablets for fresh water while trekking. NOTE: To be extra safe with your drinking water, you can drop one purifying tablet into your water bottle after filling with our filtered water. Make sure you wait the required amount of time before drinking, and don't add anything with Vitamin C as this negates the iodine.
Please bring at least TWO Nalgene, Sigg or other unbreakable plastic or metal water bottles. Camelbacks and other bladder systems are good for trekking but can leak, so as a back-up it's best to also bring a Nalgene or water bottle.
NOTE: We do not provide boiled water for drinking on either our tea-house | lodge or camping treks although there is endless hot water for herbal, milk and green teas, hot chocolate and hot lemon.
You body needs snacks hiking at altitude, even if you don't generally snack between meals. We burn more calories at altitude, as well as in the cold, and you will crave certain foods at altitude. Energy or nutrition bars, 'GU' gels, chocolate, dried fruits, nuts and jerky work well for immediate energy. Emergen-C, Nuun and electrolytes are important for daily re-hydration.
We have Western down jackets to rent for $1.50 per day. We also have good super-down sleeping bags to rent (0 to -10F) for $2.50 per day.
Packing & Storage
Packing and unpacking is easy from a duffel bag, and easy for a porter to carry.Inexpensive duffel bags are also available in Kathmandu. You can store extra gear in Kathmandu in your hotel's storage room free of charge. You can drop a bag for Pokhara at the hotel before setting off for the trek.
Almost all gear is now available in Kathmandu, from real (North Face, Mountain Hardwear, Sherpa Gear, Marmot - all in Thamel) to inexpensive knock-offs. The real gear shops take credit cards!
Everest Region
The Everest | Solu Khumbu Region
Nepal's Solu Khumbu, widely known as the Everest region, is a diverse region of spectacular Himalayan panoramas, diverse flora including blue pine, juniper and silver fir, rare wildlife and some of the highest mountains on the planet. The Khumbu is the original Sherpa homeland, a region of Nyigma-pa Tibetan Buddhist monasteries, ancient chortens, lung-ta (prayer flags), glaciers, Himalayan passes, high pasture lands and once traditional villages which are now often (but not always) crowded with trekking lodges and colorful shops. The region is dominated by the sacred Khumbila peak, which rises above Khumjung and Kunde, two of the larger villages in the area, with Mount Everest, Lhotse and Ama Dablam towering over the village from the opposite side. The elevation of the Khumbu ranges from 2840 meters to the 8,848 meter summit of Mount Everest.
There are several ways to enter the Khumbu, the most commonly trekked part of the Everest region. Most people fly into the Hillary Airstrip in Lukla (2840 meters), and the second most popular route is via Jiri, a diverse trek of 7-8 days crossing numerous smaller passes and ridges, and trekking through traditional Hindu, Rai and Tamang villages. The third route is via the old mountaineering trail of Shipton, Hillary and all of the original mountaineers starting in Tumlingtar (or before that, way back when), following the Aun River for a few days before veering west and trekking in very hilly, beautiful country through sprawling Rai villages until the Jiri route is intersected. The last route is via the Rolwaling Tashi Laptsa Pass, a challenging six day trek from Barabise and Chariot, through the realm of the goddess Tashi Tseringma (according to Sherpa mythology), which crosses the somewhat treacherous Tashi Laptsa Pass (5755 meters) to reach the Thame valley. The last route is from Tibet, a trail not open to Westerners and often closed even for Nepalis and Tibetans. From the Tibetan side traders cross the Nangpo La (5710 meters) and trek down several days through a glacial valley where Sherpas have their 'doksas', or seasonal herding villages, to reach Thame and Namche Bazaar.
The Everest (Khumbu) region is entered through the Sagarmatha National Park at the top end of Monjo (where Kim taught school in 2001). The Sagarmartha National Park is a UNESCO world heritage site since 1979, an area of 1148 square meters which ranges from 2840 - 8840 meters. The buffer zone was established in the late 90s to give some income to the villages between Lukla and Monjo. Namche Bazaar is a bustling old trading village at the fork of three valleys, situated in an amphitheater of peaks. The far left valley leads to Thame valley and Tibet, the middle valley leads to Gokyo Lake and the far right valley leads to the Khumbu Glacier, formed during the last great Ice Age approximately 500,000 years ago, and Everest Base Camp. This valley branches off to the right about half way up and leads to the Chhukhung Valley and the base of the Island Peak climbing route.
The Khumbu region, with a population of about 4000, gets from 10-20,000 Western trekkers per year, and probably double that amount of Nepali staff and local porters coming to the markets at Lukla and Namche with their goods to sell.
Mount Everest, also referred to in Sherpa and Tibetan as Chomolungma, was recognized as the highest peak in the world in 1856 by the Great Trigonometrical Survey of India (it was until then known as Peak XV). Everest was named after Sir George Everest, the British Surveyor General of India, by the Royal Geographical Society in 1865.
The first mountaineers to attempt to climb Everest were British, and the first attempt made in 1921 from the Tibetan side as Nepal was then closed to foreigners. This 1921 expedition reached 7000 meters on the North Col, the 1922 expedition climbing on the North ridge reached 8320 meters but tragically 7 porters were killed in an avalanche while descending. George Mallory & Andrew Irvine attempted to climb Everest on 8 June, 1924, perhaps even submitting before disappearing. Mallory's body was discovered in 1999 on the North Face of Everest, at 8155 meters; the question of whether or not they summited Everest still remains a mystery.
Nearly 30 years later Tenzing Norgay and Edmund Hillary succeeded in making the first official ascent of Everest, climbing on the southeast ridge route in 1953 to reach the summit of Chomolungma together!
Notable Himalayan peaks include Everest (8848m), Lhotse (8516m), Nuptse (7861m), Makalu (8462m), Cho Oyu (8201m), Ama Dablam (6812m), Mera Peak (6476m), Island Peak (6189m), Cho Polu (6735m), Khumbutse (6640m), Kwongde Ri (6187m), Thamserku (6623m), Kang Guru (6981m), Kusum Kanggaru (6367m), Changtse (7580m) & Cholatse (6440m).
HoneyGuide Apps
Day 1 - Arrive Kathmandu 1340m/16,350' | Kathmandu Guest House | Upgrade Sangri La, Hyatt, Yak & Yeti + Dwarika's
Welcome to Nepal! You'll be met at Tribhuvan International Airport by Lhakpa or Doma of Khumbu Adventures (or a representative from your hotel) who will have a sign with your name on it. Transfer to your hotel where your rooms have been booked for you. We'll need your travel medical insurance, a copy of your passport and Nepali visa and one (or more) visa-sized photo, so please have them ready to give to Lhakpa or Doma.
The Kathmandu Guest House is one of Kathmandu's first guest houses, originally a Rana Palace. Located in the tourist hub of Thamel, it's a beautiful hotel with a large garden and a lovely outdoors cafe. Options to upgrade to one of Kathmandu's other world class hotels: Dwarika's, Kathmandu's premier hotel built and decorated with traditional Kathmandu valley architecture, is an oasis of calm located near the airport, where you can relax by the pool, visit the award-winning spa, enjoy the serene, historic surroundings and dine at one of their world-class restaurants. Yak & Yeti is one of Kathmandu's historic hotels, with a lovely pool and garden, located just off Durbar Marg, a tree-lined, upscale road of shops and hotels. Shangri La is in Lazimpat (a few kilometers outside Thamel), and features a beautifully landscaped garden with a small pool, Asian decor in the rooms and an outdoor cafe, as well as great restaurants. The Hyatt is a wonderful, world class hotel located near Boudhanath, with a large pool, a great buffet breakfast, a gym and a mix of Buddhist and Hindu decor in the lobby and rooms.
Drink plenty of water to hydrate after your flight, and enjoy your first evening in Kathmandu ...
Day 2 - Kathmandu
Enjoy a free day to explore Kathmandu's many World Heritage sites, to decompress at your hotel or the spa, to head out shopping or to embark on a tour of the Kathmandu and the beautiful Kathmandu valley, surrounded by Himalayan snow-peaks.
Kathmandu | World Heritage Sites (Optional Tour)
Kathmandu is filled with World Heritage sites and sacred destinations, crowded with traditional neighborhoods and colorful festivals. Spend a few days exploring Nepal's exotic capital and the history-laden Kathmandu valley. We can arrange sightseeing guide, vehicles and guides as required. See Kathmandu Heritage + Happenings for more details.
We recommend beginning with Pashupatinath in the early morning, and moving on to Boudhanath mid-morning. Hindu Pashupatinath on the sacred Bagmati river and its sacred temple complex is one of Nepal's most important sites, a powerful cremation site and Nepal's most important Hindu temple. Here, monkeys run up and down the steps of the burning ghats, and trident-bearing saddhus draped in burnt-orange and saffron sit serenely meditating, when they're not posing for photos-for-rupees. Local guides can explain the significance of the complicated ceremonies. Please be respectful when taking photos.
Boudhanath, in the midst of traditional monasteries (gompas) and hung with long strings of multi-colored prayer flags, attracts Sherpas, Tibetans and tourists alike for daily circumambulations (koras) of the iconic stupa. The striking Buddha eyes of Boudhanath Stupa watch over a lively and colorful Tibetan community and attract pilgrims from all over the Himalayan Buddhist realm. There are wonderful spots for lunch at Boudhanath (Roadhouse Cafe has wood-oven pizzas and a breathtaking view of the stupa and colorful Nepals circling it), and it's a good place to learn the technique of thanka painting and purchase a thanka (Buddhist mural). See also Bhaktapur for more options for shopping for thankas.
Wander through the many temples, pagodas, courtyards and the museum at Kathmandu Durbar Square, a timeless gathering spot and a UNESCO World Heritage site. Kathmandu Durbar Square, including the old royal palace, is Kathmandu's 'Palace Square', a showcase for the world renown artisans and craftsmen of Kathmandu and a synthesis of Hindu and Buddhist palaces, temples, stupas and statues. The Malla and Shah kings ruled over the Kathmandu Valley during the centuries of the building of the layers of this Durbar Square. Along with their opulent palaces, the square surrounds numerous courtyards and temples, all works of art with intricate and often erotic carvings. Kathmandu Durbar Square is known as Hanuman Dhoka Durbar Square, a name derived from a statue of Hanuman, the monkey devotee of Lord Ram, at the entrance of the palace. The social, religious and urban focal point of the city, Durbar Square is often the site of festivals, marriages and other ceremonies such as Teej. Some important structures are Hanuman Dhoka Palace, Kumari Ghar (Abode of the Living Goddess), Taleju Temple, built between the 12th and 18th centuries, the 17th century stone inscription set into the wall of the palace with writings in 15 languages.
In the evening (take the interesting back streets from Durbar Square) climb the many steps to the gilded Swayambhunath stupa (known as the monkey temple) which rises from the Kathmandu valley floor at 1420 meters and is one of the holiest Buddhist sites in Nepal. . Swayambunath, the 'self created' stupa, was founded over 2000 years ago at a time when the Kathmandu valley was filled by a large lake, with a single lotus in the center. Mythology says that Manjusri, a bodhisvatti, drained the lake with one cut of his sword and the lotus flower was transformed into the stupa. From its commanding views of Kathmandu, circumambulate Swayambunath's white-washed stupa, painted with distinctive Buddha eyes, the complex a unique synthesis of Buddhism and Hinduism. Another interesting time to visit Swayambunath is in the mornings, when Nepalis visit the temple dedicated to the God of Smallpox to with colorful offerings for the goddess.
Stop to photograph reflections in Kathmandu's many pokhari's, or ponds, including the beautiful Rani Pokhari (queen's bath) near New Road, and the Naga Pokhari (pond of the snake gods of the underworld) just beyond the palace gates. The many bathing ghats, square enclosures with steps leading down to water spouts, often decorated with naga heads, are also interesting and colorful gathering spots.
Kathmandu World Heritage Sightseeing Tour | Pashupatinath, Boudhanath + Swayambunath (+$75)
Kathmandu Durbar Square Walking Tour | Durbar Square (+$50)
Day 3 - Fly Lukla 2850m/9350'. Trek Monjo 2835m/9300'
Just after sunrise we embark on a spectacular 30-minute flight over the Kathmandu valley and along snow-capped Himalayan peaks to the well-known Lukla airstrip. After sorting out our loads on our dzobkios (a mix of yak and cow) and a hearty breakfast at Eco-Paradise Lodge at the other side of the airstrip we start trekking!
Leaving the bustling village of Lukla, packed with colorful shops, restaurants and bars and still a bit of Sherpa character, we trek north, with snow-capped Karyolung peak in the distance. The quaint village of Chaunrikharka lays below us. The trail takes us above a rhododendron-choked forest, over the school and gompa and past the checkered fields of barley, spinach and potatoes of the village. We are trekking along the Dudh Kosi (river) on a centuries-old trading trail from Nepal to Tibet. It is well traveled by stout, heavily loaded Nepali porters and Tibetan traders (Khampas, most distinguishable by the length of red or black tassel wrapped around their heads) conducting business between the weekly markets of Lukla and Namche with Chinese and Tibetan goods brought over the 5700m Nangpa La (pass) from Tibet.
Half an hour out of Lukla we reach the idyllic hamlet of Chheplung. Up valley rises the sacred peak of Khumbila, a black triangle that dominates the valley. From the small hamlet of Thado Kosi, while crossing the metal bridge, we have our first view the three sister peaks of Kusum Khangkaru to the east. Half an hour of lovely trekking over cobbled trails brings us to Ghat and the best-maintained cluster of mani stones and prayer flags in the Khumbu. The local lama, owner of the Lama Lodge in Ghat, is responsible for this magical setting. Once at Phakding, a lively village a half hour's walk from Ghat, we will stop for lunch at Ang Sani and Jangbu's Shangri La Lodge. Their son, Nawang, has just opened a stylish cafe with great cappuccinos from an Italian coffee maker!
Hiking by the small tea-houses servicing the locals and workers in Phakding, we cross a long suspension bridge over the Dudh Kosi and trek above the river, climbing through evergreen forests to reach the first lodge of Benkar. Look up on the protruding rocks for Himalayan thar. Continuing over a small bridge, we continue through larger Benkar, the first village to attend the Monjo school. Another suspension bridge, several small tea houses serving local fare and another climb, and we reach Chumoa, with apple and peach trees which bloom in the springtime. One more small bridge and a last climb on uneven stone steps to reach Monjo, where we stop at Top Hill Lodge for the night, owned by Domey and Pasang Dawa.
Monjo is a small Sherpa village tucked away in the forests high above the Dudh Kosi where Kim taught English years ago, only the newer part of the village visible from the trail. There is a newly reconstructed gompa above the school, and above than a steep drop off and good view of tomorrow's hike. (6 hrs)
Day 4 - Trek Namche Bazaar 3465m/11,365'
After a short walk past the school with Khumbila (or Khumbu Yul La) looming majestically ahead of us, we enter the gateway to the Sagarmatha National Park. Descending steeply on a stony trail to the river, we cross a long suspension bridge to reach the hamlet of Jorsale, and then cross one more long bridge before continuing along the sandy riverside trail, still amongst the pine forest, the shores peppered with large, rounded river rocks. We continue along the river for about 45 minutes, with two large ascents on steep, stone staircases. Hike carefully as these steps are a bit precipitous.
Bring your five-colored Tibetan prayer flags to hang on the long (new in 2013) suspension bridge over the confluence of the Dudh Kosi (milk river) and the Bhote Kosi (river from Tibet) and send prayers out into the Everest region! The steep hour and a half climb to Namche on a dusty, rocky, switch-backing trail is broken half-way up the hill by our first view of Everest, Lhotse & Nuptse. Local women sell delicious oranges at this resting point, which we'll share for sure with other trekkers. Another 45 minutes of climbing, mostly off the main trail amongst the evergreens, we arrive at the old trading village of Namche Bazaar, now a thriving trekking metropolis. We'll have a short tour of the shopping and bakeries in Namche before heading up steep stone steps to our guest house, Natang & Pemba's idyllic Moonlight Lodge, scenically situated at the top of Namche.
Namche Bazaar, once called Nauje and now the most prosperous trading village on the old trade route with Tibet, sits in an amphitheater surrounded by mountains. From Namche we have perfect views of Kongde Ri in front of us, Kangtega, Thamserku and Kusum Khangkuru to the east and Khumbila to the back. Down-valley the hills and valleys along the route from Solu to Khumbu from Jiri sit shrouded in hazy shades of steely-grey and blues. (3 1/2 hrs)
Day 5 - Namche Bazaar
An acclimatization day in Namche to prepare you for the trek ahead. Tomorrow you'll do a great hike above Namche, so today let your body adjust to the altitude and do some local exploring. There's lots to do in and around Namche Bazaar, including stocking up on whatever extra snacks and trekking gear you need! It's Saturday Market day (which actually starts on Friday), spend the morning with your guide exploring the bustling market, a feast of colors, smells and colorfully-clad Sherpa women up from their villages for the weekly event. It's as much a social gathering as a produce, meat and essential goods market, so the atmosphere is spirited and lively, a great photographic opportunity.
You are free to relax and explore the crowded main streets of Namche, the Sherpa Cultural Center (photographic museum, fantastic), the reconstructed traditional Sherpa house (next door), the National Park Headquarters Museum (where you'll have easy views of Everest, Lhotse + Nuptse++), colorful Namche Gompa with its own new museum and the Tibetan market. The Tibetans are often encamped in the center of town in a muddy bazaar (potato fields in the summer) touting their goods from China. Indulge yourself at one of the many bakeries, shop for some yak bells or hand-woven Himalayan hats, chat with the sociable Sherpas in the village, or just relax in preparation for the trek. There are now new Mountain Hardwear and Sherpa Gear shops as well as Tsedam's Gear Shop with a great variety of real trek gear if you find that you're missing warm clothes. All often have gear on sale, bonus! Watch out for dzobkios and cows wandering the narrow streets.
For some peak-spotting at sunset, hike up ten minutes just past the National Park headquarters. For a higher viewpoint, climb steeply to any of several viewpoint an hour+ walk straight up the ridge (above the huge mani stone at the top of the steps). Continue just past Syangboche airstrip, worth the effort for the panoramic views of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Thamserku, Kantega, Kusum Khangkuru, Tarboche and Ama Dablam.
Moonlight Lodge has a great hot shower, a large library, beer, wine and delicious home-cooked food, so there is really no reason to leave at all if you're feeling lethargic, or enjoying basking in the sunny dining room.
Day 6 - Trek Khunde 3830m/12,562'
Your Sherpa guide will lead a scenic and cultural high trek through the Khunde and Khumjung valley. Taking advantage of the crisp morning light we hike up the steep hill in back of Namche (the same as towards the viewpoint) towards the lively, old Sherpa villages of Khunde and Khumjung, passing through the old airstrip at Syangboche en route. The first section of the climb is steep and sandy, and we will break the climb with great photos from the large mani stone hung with colorful prayer-flags. On the ridge above the airstrip, climb gradually on tundra to a large, whitewashed chorten to the right of the yak-breeding center. From here you will climb briefly to a small hill topped with chulung (memorial chortens) for fabulous views of Kumbila, Tabuche, Ama Dablam, Thamserku, Kangtega, Kusum Khangkuru, Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse. We trek down to Khumjung along a small, scenic trail through rhododenrons. We may spot Himalayan tahr grazing on the hillsides, and possibly iridescent danphe and chortling chukkars.
Descending into magical Khumjung (marketed as the Green Valley), you will walk through the entrance chorten and past a long, beautiful mani wall and the old Khumjung school, established by Hillary in the 70s. We'll contour through ancient rock walls through the lower half of the village to Khumjung Gompa, one of the oldest in the Khumbu (approximately 500 years) and home to the only existing Yeti scalp on the planet.
The adjoining villages of Khumjung and Khunde are some of the original villages of the Khumbu region, both about 600 years old and wonderful examples of local Sherpa architecture with their winding stone walls, yak paddocks, potato patches and wood and slate houses. Perhaps we will run into Sherpa friends who will invite us in for some salt-butter tea, climbing up a wooden ladder over the straw-lined manger to get into the main house on the first floor. Both villages sit below Khumbila, the sacred Sherpa peak surrounded by lhaso (shrines to mountain deities), above a famous rock-mural of Guru Rimpoche. The views of Ama Dablam from this valley are breathtaking. Heading up the valley to neighboring Khunde, we continue to trek through trails lined by lichen-covered stone walls, past traditional Sherpa houses, to Khunde Hospital, where Lhakpa Dorji's uncle Kami is the head doctor.
Next door, at Khunde Guest House, enjoy a traditional lunch with the lovely owner Doma Tseri. Their lodge has expansive mountain views from the warm, glass dining room. After a hearty lunch and dropping your gear in the lodge rooms, you'll head for a great hike up to the Hillary Memorial!
Hillary Memorial
The side trip to Hillary Memorial (4200m), locally referred to as Gong Ri, is a relatively easy hike (approximately 45 minute) along a gradually ascending through a hillside lightly wooded with fir and juniper above Khunde Monastery. Just before reaching the monastery, take the intersecting trail heading left to a scenic ridge with a nearly 360 degree view of Himalayan peaks. The dramatic ridge top setting was dedicated as a memorial to Edmund Hillary's wife, Louise, and his 16 year old daughter, Belinda, who died tragically in a plane crash just outside of Kathmandu in 1975. The plane was heading to Phaplu Airstrip. Just above the memorial to Louise and Belinda Hillary is a chorten built by local Khunde inhabitants to honor Sir Edmund Hillary.
Views from the memorial include Everest, Lhotse, Nupte, Tabuche, Ama Dablam, Kangtega, Thamserku, Kusum Kangkaru, Kwongde and Pharchamo, as well as the twin villages of Khunde and Khumjung just below Khunde Gompa, Shyangboche, Namche and Monjo down valley, and Tengboche and Pangboche to the north. From the ridge, look to the west to the Thame valley leading to the Nangpa La, once an important Tibetan trade route. The narrow valley before the Thame valley is rumored to be the home of several yetis. (IF returning to Namche, descend from the memorial along the same trail, or head straight down the ridge towards Shyangboche, cutting back towards Khunde to meet the main trail back to Namche as well as the trail leading west towards Thame. You can bushwack your way directly down to Namche but it takes some work, and the trails are only for wood cutters or musk deer. On the plus side, you'll encounter the many colorful Danphe en route!) (4+ hrs)
Day 7 - Trek Phortse 3780m/12,398'
We start the day hiking up to the same large mani stone, turning left and hiking along the well-used trail heading east. We stay high, contouring around several hillsides far above the Dudh Kosi and stopping for views of Everest and Lhotse at the two whitewashed chortens. (The first chorten is a newer memorial to Tenzin Norgay). Two hours after leaving Namche we reach Tashi & Lhakpa's Ama Dablam Lodge in Kyangjuma, perched dramatically on a steep hillside overlooking the peak of the same name. Tashi has the best jewelry shopping in the Everest region so we'll have a short stop at her lodge. Continuing along the main trail through a lovely rhododendron forest we take a sharp left at the intersecting trail leading to Gokyo and ascend the steep trail up to the bridge which intersects the old trail from Khumjung. Along the way we are likely to see wildlife such as himalayan tahr and the spectacularly-hued danphe (the Nepali national bird). We climb gradually for another hour to Mong La, where we will stop for a scenic lunch at Boudha Lodge, perched spectacularly on this (nearly) 4000 meter pass. Across the valley sits Tengboche Gompa, its gilded rooftops glittering in the afternoon sun ...
We have a steep descent through pine and rhododendron forests on a switchbacking trail, with stone steps hugging the cliff side on the lower half, to Phortse Tenga. Just past the lodges and ancient mani walls, hiking through woods of birch, we cross the river on a steel bridge and start the short but steep climb up to Phortse, one of the oldest villages of the Khumbu region. Keep your eyes open and cameras out as there are many musk deer, danphe and blood pheasants hiding in the rhododendron forests bordering the trail and the village. The danphe dig for potatoes in the lower fields of the village in the mornings and evenings, near the ancient chorten at the end of the fields. We'll bunk down for the night at Phortse Guest House, which has a wonderful dining room, great views and good electricity. The lodge is run by a lovely Sherpa couple, Ba Nuru and his Sherpani wife Pasang. Ba Nuru is a many-time Everest climber and one of the main participants in the Phortse Climbing School, founded by Conrad Anchor and his wife. (6 1/2 hrs)
Day 8 – Trek Pangboche 3900m/12,792'
Leaving Phortse on the northeastern side and climbing for 20 minutes to the small chorten which signifies the top of the ridge, we look across the Imja Khola towards Tengboche Gompa across the deep river gorge. Our trail skirts the high ridges of Tabuche Peak, often precipitous but always safe, with fantastic views around every corner and more thar grazing along the steep hillsides. Everest, Nuptse and Lhotse dominate the northern skyline, while Ama Dablam is close enough to touch to the east and Kangtega and Thamserku grace the valley below us. After an hour of scenic walking we climb a few hundred meters to a small pass (4080m), descend with a few dips on stone staircases, and soon reach Upper Pangboche. We'll take 20 minutes to wander the old alleys and take a look inside Pangboche Gompa, at approximately 500 years old one of the four oldest gompas (monasteries) in the Khumbu.
Contouring above the newer Lower Pangboche, we trek to the left of an ancient mani wall and contour above the newer lodges before dropping down to our lodge at the end of Lower Pangboche. Pangbohe is a lovely village with views across the Imja Khola to the trail to Ama Dablam Base Camp, the old airstrip at Mingbo and Ama Dablam. We stay at Sonam Lodge, the last in the village, owned by Lhakpa's (ex) brother-in-law, Gyurme. Gyurme is one of the many lodge owners who has summited Everest and Ama Dablam many times. From the three-sided windows of the dining room we are treated to a magnificent sunset over Ama Dablam, Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse. (3 hrs)
As it's been a short day we'll enjoy a leisurely lunch at the Sonam Lodge. Feel free to enjoy the afternoon resting at the lodge, or take a hike through the trekking shops of Lower Pangboche or up to a strip of memorial chortens on the high trail from Upper Pangboche. One of the original partners of Project Himalaya, Joel Schone, has his memorial chorten at this beautiful spot. (3 1/2 hrs)
Day 9 - Trek Dingboche 4300m/14,015'
It's only a short trekking day today since we're gaining altitude, so enjoy the beautiful walk. Leaving Pangboche, we trek above the Imja Khola along a rocky trail to tiny Somare and then along wide yak trails past the one lodge of Orsho and then past the intersection to Pheriche (home of the the HRA health post). Just past the intersection we descend to the intersecting Chola Khola which we cross on a small, wooden bridge to reach the scree hillside leading to Dingboche. Dingboche is another old Sherpa village, now a primary stop on the Everest Base Camp route, a semi-permanent village whos inhabitants traditionally would stay in nearby kharkas, keeping their livestock away from their precious barley crops.
The lower half of Dingboche is a line of trekking lodges interspersed with a few local shops and internet cafes, while the upper half is still local Sherpa dwellings, fields, rock walls and yak enclosures, reminiscent of Sherpa villages of yore. Three whitewashed chortens with Buddha eyes lead up the ridge to the peak called Dolma Ri, topped with prayer flags. Look on top of the peak for the eagle, or 'lak', perched there. Above, nestled in the hillside, is an old Buddhist hermitage called Nangar Dzong, the summer meditation place of Lama Sangwa Dorje. We stay at the bottome of Dingboche, at at Nima Yangjin and Samden's welcoming Snowlion Guest House, and enjoy the afternoon at the bakery in the sun! (3 hrs)
Day 10 - Dingboche
Head up towards Dolma Ri peak to get ready for Island Peak, a climb of a few hours depending on how far up you go. Enjoy the spectacular views, some of the best in the Everst region! The extra acclimitization day will help with your ascent of Island Peak.
Day 11 - Trek Lobuche 4935m/16,186m | OPTION Cross Kongma La Pass 5540m/18171m
After returning back down the valley to Dingboche, we crest the chorten-topped ridge and continue another three hours further, looking down on the trail to the Cho La Pass and Dzongla. Walking along the flat, grassy plateau, we pass the summer 'doksa', or yak-herding settlement, of Dusa before heading down to the stony river coming from the Khumbu Valley, and crossing it on a small bridge. A quick five minutes up the hill and we arrive at Thugla and Tsering Lhakpa's Yak Lodge, probably the most genuine alpine lodge in the Khumbu. And it's worth a trek up to Thugla just to meet Tsering, who often takes out his Tibetan 'damnye' to play some traditional Tibetan songs. We'll have lunch at Thugla before continuing up.
From Thugla, it's straight up the steep, yak-trodden trail to the memorials to the many climbers who have died attempting one of the many peaks in the area (including Babu Chiri and Scott Fischer's). The Sherpas call this place Chukpi Lhare, meaning 'wealthy persons' kharka'. Check the mountain views behind you when you reach the memorial crest, they're spectacular. Next, we head up-valley towards Lobuche, where we stay the night at the Eco Lodge. The views from the edge of the glacier down valley are superb, almost more so as the clouds move up the valley, so don't miss an afternoon walk up to the ridge with your camera. At Lobuche, almost 5000 meters, it is especially important to take it easy, stay hydrated and get plenty of rest. (7 hrs)
Day 12 - Trek Gorak Shep 5180m/16,990' | Climb Kala Pattar Peak 5645m/18,516'
We leave Lobuche early, trekking up a rocky yak trail on the left side of the Khumbu Glacier towards Gorak Shep, a walk of about three hours. The walk isn't difficult, but there are a few hills to crest, more memorials along the way, and you should feel the altitude. The last stretch of the trail snakes up and down glacial scree, and just before Gorak Shep we get a view of Everest. Gorak Shep, with Kala Pattar just to the left, is a welcome sight; the Himalayan Lodge has expanded, the rooms are lovely, the toilets are inside and the dining room is always lively and warm. The food is even good, quite a feat at 5180 meters, many days walk from the markets! To the east of Gorak Shep, Nuptse looms magnificently above us, now a triangular rock face which turns pink with the evening light.
We have a chance to climb the 5645-meter Kala Pattar later in the morning, a steep, 2-hour climb from the lodge. From the rocky, prayer-flag strewn summit which is actually a spur from Pumori we are rewared with in-your-face views the 6, 7 & 8000 meter peaks as Everest, Lhotse (the tip), Nuptse, Amadablam & Kangtega to the south and Lhola Peak, Changtse, Khumbutse, Lingtren, Pumori & Chumbu. Changtse is fully in Tibet, and the others for the most part form the border of Nepal and Tibet.
Descending is much faster than the ascent, and hot drinks are waiting back at Ang Tsering's Himalayan Lodge. For the remainder of the day: a late lunch (if we didn't have it earlier), rest and lots of water! (3 hrs + 4 hrs RT)
Day 13 - Trek Lobuche 4935m/16,186' | Day Hike Everest Base Camp 5365m/17,597m
We have the morning hike to Everest Base Camp at 5365 meters, a 5-hour round-trip walk along the glacial ridge leading to the Khumbu icefall, descending right onto the glacier. At 'Korean Base Camp' there is a rock strung with 5-colored prayer flags which looks out at the Khumbu Ice Fall, a perfect spot for a group photo. If we have time, we can venture into the ice pinacles just a few minutes from the prayer flags, a sign of the melting glaciers and global warming ...
If you didn't do it yesterday you can climb the 5645 meter Kala Pattar in the morning. Rob Hall's memorial makes a nice side-trip up the valley if you're short on energy. Back at the lodge we'll have lunch and then head back down the glacial valley to Lobuche, showers, a warm stove and a good dinner. (4 hrs RT + 2 hrs)
Day 14 - Trek Chhukhung 4750m/15,580'
W e have two options today, to hike around the valley to Chhukhung or to cross the Kongma La. The pass is very arduous going up from Lobuche so discuss with the guide before making this decision. The total time from Lobuche up the Kongma La (5540m) and back down to Chhukung is 7 hours. To get to the pass you'll have to cross the Khumbu glacier, an other worldy setting, and then ascend and descend the high lateral morraine on the opposite side of the valley. Then a hard, steep climb on scree to the top of the pass, which is adorned with prayer flags. Great mountain panoramas from the top, and again Makalu stands out. On route down you'll pass the Kongma Lakes and two diferent base camps for Pokalden peak. From here it's a straightforward trail to Chhukhung, contouring around many hillsides. Note the Tibetan Snowcock ('kongma') along the trail.
The other option is equally spectacular perhaps, but not quite as difficult. The length of day is approximately the same with a stop for lunch at Thugla. You'll hike back down the valley past the memorials to Thugla, and then cross the high plateau back to Dingboche. From here it's a new trail, a lovely hike up the sparkling Imja Khola, quickly gaining altitude. Cross a few small bridges once past the small herding hut just before Chhukhung, a seasonal herding settlement nestled under Ama Dablam, Lhotse, the Nuptse wall, Peak 38 and Island Peak to name just a few. The Chhukhung Resort, run by the industrious Chunti Sherpa, is a lovely lodge with sunny, new rooms and a warm sunroom with views, perfect for peak-gazing in the afternoon. Sunsets are sublime, so get out on the nearby moraine with your cameras ...
Day 15 - Trek Island Peak Base Camp
Practice for your climb of Island Peak by trekking up Chhukhung Ri, a climbing peak with two summits, the higher at about 5530m. From the summit, the views of Makalu in particular are awesome. It's a round-trip climb of 3+ hours, more if you climb to the second summit to the trekker's right of the chorten-topped saddle. After lunch back at the lodge it's time to head north. It's a beautiful hike from Chhukung to Island Peak Base Camp, up the rolling valley, very central Tibetan in style,trekking on the ridges of the terminal morraine. En route you'll pass grassy grazing pastures on the undulating trail, continuing past Imja Tal (lake) to your campsite. It's a four hour walk but you're gaining altitude so trek slowly and enjoy the great scenery.
Day 16 - Climb Island Peak 6173m/20,248'. Return Island Peak Base Camp
Be ready for a long (8-10+) hour day as your qualified Sherpa guide leads you from Base Camp, up the knife-edged ridge to the summit of Island Peak. Enjoy the amazing panorama of 8000 meter peaks before retracing your steps back to Base Camp. Exhausted, crash in your tent and the staff will bring steaming cups of chai around. Congratulations!
Day 17 - Trek Chhukhung
This is one of the least trekked and most spectacular valleys, so you'll have a chance to enjoy it back at the lodge in Chhukhung, and time to recover from the climb.
Day 18 - Trek Tengboche 4000m/13,120'
After a 1 1/2 hour walk back down the Chhukhung Valley to Dingboche, you'll continue along the main trail back to Pangboche. Trekking further down the valley, you leave Pangboche by passing by the numerous trekking lodges and shops of Lower Pangboche and exiting the town through the open chorten (kane). You'll descend, on a beautiful and well-worn trail lined with ancient mani walls and whitewashed chortens with Bouddha eyes, down to the Imja Khola far below. After crossing the river on a new metal bridge (look below to see the old bridge), you hike on wide yak-trails through the hamlet of Devoche, passing ancient, moss-covered mani stones and the ani gompa (nunnery) of Devoche on the right. Stop for a peek into this old monastery, the equally ancient looking nuns often perform mid-day pujas. Soon after passing the nunnery you will pass the few small lodges of Devoche and then ascend a relatively steep, switchbacking trail through a dense rhododendron forest for a good half an hour to reach Tengboche (4000 meters), backed by the massive wall of Kangtega and well-known for its large monastery, Tengboche Gompa. Tengboche is the largest monastic community in the Everest region and one of the Khumbu's most important monasteries. Take some time to visit Tengboche Gompa before dinner; they often have a late-afternoon puja.
Day 19 – Trek Namche Bazaar
First thing in the morning you'll brave the steep, hour-long descent on a dusty, hill-side trail to Phunki Tenga. From here, cross the Dudh Koshi on a new bridge and head back up steeply through pine forests, past small local settlements, to Tashi and Lhakpa's Amadablam Lodge at Kyangjuma. You will probably stop for a scenic lunch on the terrace, gazing out on the majestic Ama Dablam. Don't miss the shopping; Tashi is famous for her jewelry which she also sells in Colorado in the summertime. From here, it's an easy hour and a half contour around many brushy hillsides to reach Namche, the Tibetan market, the Moonlight lodge, hot showers, good food and a glass of wine or a cold beer.
Day 20 - Trek Lukla
Up early as it's quite a long day back to Lukla. The descent of that long hill that we plodded up less then a fortnight ago seems amazingly short and easy on the way down. Jorsale, just before the bridge to Monjo, is the home of Phuru Diki, one of the girls Kim sponsors (she's now in school in Kathmandu), and we will probably run into her youngest sibling en route. After one last steep hill to the National Park gate, we reach the welcome sight of Monjo. We might run into Dali, the mother of Dawa Yangi and Nimalee, two Monjo sisters that we sponsor for school in Khumjung. We continue back to Lukla along the same trail, although it always looks different coming from the opposite direction.
We'll stop for lunch at Shangri La in Phakding, and finish the trek back at Dawa Phuti & Ang Pasang's Eco Paradise Lodge in Lukla, where the adventurous can try some of Dawa's famous Sherpa tongba. This cozy dining room is one the nicest in the Everest region, so it's always an added treat to return there after the trek. Ang Pasang works closely with the airport, so we are in good hands for our flight out the next morning.
Day 21 - Fly Kathmandu
Bags packed and ready to go before the sun rises as we fly out of Lukla to Kathmandu early; taking off from the Hillary Airstrip is just as exciting as landing! Flights our of Lukla are sometimes delayed by bad weather.
In Kathmandu, back at the Kathmandu Guest House, long, hot showers await, and grubby clothes can be dropped at the laundry. Enjoy a well earned dinner + a few beers out!
Day 22 - Trip Ends
Transfer to the Tribhuvan International Airport (TIA) for your flight home. Namaste!
Everest Heli Tours
Everest Helicopter Tour Kwondge | Lunch Overlooking Everest
An option for your last day in the Khumbu region is lunch overlooking some of the best Himalayan views on the planet! Board your private helicopter from Namche for the quick flight to Kwongde YMH, and enjoy lunch overlooking this vast panorama of peaks. Views include some of the highest peaks on the planet, including Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, Gyajung Khang (the higest peak under 8000m) and the majestic Ama Dambam. From the YMH lodge you can look down on Kwonde Lake, generally hidden, and up the awe inspiring Khumbu valley. The Kwongde YMH is a 'boutique' lodge, one of the world's highest hotels.
+ Price Per Helicopter
Everest Mountain Helicopter Sightseeing Tour - Everest, EBC, Lhotse, Nuptse, Cho La Pass (Gokyo Valley) + Renjo La Pass (Thame Valley)
A once in a lifetime helicopter tour of the Everest region's spectacular peaks, glaciers and Himalayan passes! The helicopter pick you up in Pangboche (or wherever you choose), from where you will fly over the Khumbu Glacier and to Everest Base Camp and the sublime Everest ice fall. You will have a chance to stop at Everest Base camp for photos of this spectacular setting! Back in the helicopters, your flight path takes you over Dzongla Lake, the glaciated Cho La pass and into the stunningly beautiful Gokyo valley, flying low over the turquoise Gokyo Lake, with another touh down to splash some sacred lake on yourself before crossing the Renjo La pass to the traditional Thame valley, the old trade route to Tibet. Your epic helicopter tour will finish back in Namche Bazaar.
+ Price Per Helicopter
Everest Mountain Epic Sightseeing Tour from Kathmandu
The full deal, all the way from Kathmandu to Everest Base Camp + much more! A once in a lifetime helicopter tour of the Everest region's spectacular peaks, glaciers and Himalayan passes! Your private helicopter pick you up at Tribhuvan Airport in Kathmandu, from where you will fly up to the fabled Tenzin Norgay airport in Lukla. After a cup of tea in Lukla, you will reboard you helicopter and fly over the Khumbu Glacier and to Everest Base Camp and the sublime Everest ice fall. You will have the unique chance to stop at Everest Base camp for photos of this spectacular setting!
Back in the helicopters, your flight path takes you over beautiful Dzongla Lake, the glaciated Cho La pass and into the stunningly beautiful Gokyo valley, flying low over the turquoise Gokyo Lake, with another touh down to splash some sacred lake on yourself before crossing the Renjo La pass to traditional Thame valley, the old trade route to Tibet. Your epic helicopter continues by flying back over Namche Bazaar, and back through Nepal's lush middle hills to Kathmandu.
+ Price Per Helicopter
Kathmandu Tours
Kathmandu | Bhaktapur Sightseeing Tour
One more day in Kathmandu, with a sightseeing excursion by private vehicle to Bhaktapur. Bhaktapur which translates as 'Place of Devotees' and is also known as Bhadgaon, is an ancient Newar city approximately 15 kilometers east of the Kathmandu Valley. Bhaktapur is one of three ancient capitals of the Kathmandu valley, the capital of the Newar Kingdom and a city of artisans and craftspeople famous for its art and architecture: intricate carvings, sculptures, paintings, thankas, pottery, statues and temples, or pagodas. Bhaktapur has a well-preserved 'durbar square', or palace square, and has been named a World Heritage site by UNESCO because of its incredible temples, pagodas, wood carvings, stone carvings and metalwork. Bhaktapur is also famous for its yogurt, called curd in Asia, a taste which hasn't been duplicated anywhere.
Spend a full day exploring Bhaktapur and its rich cultural heritage, where a majority of enthnic Newaris live in traditional ways, and life seems to stand still. There are many great restaurants and cafes to rejuvenate, and it's possibly the best spot in Kathmandu for purchasing a thanka after watching the technique, as well as shopping for endless other locally produced crafts. Bhaktapur is home to countless local festivals, so if you are lucky and arrive on a festival day, enjoy the timeless and colorful events unfold.
+ Kathmandu World Heritage Sightseeing Tour | Bhaktapur (+$100)
+ Entrance Fees not Included for Single Person
Kathmandu | Patan Sightseeing Tour
Visit the third of Kathmandu's ancient capitals, known as 'The City of Fine Arts', best if you have an extra day in hand as Patan is also rich in cultural heritage, has many lovely roof-top cafes for lunch and world-class museums. Some of the highlights of Patan are its Durbar Square, the Krishna Temple within the palace complex of Patan (entirely made of stone, with 21 distinctive spires), and Hiranya Varna Mahavir, or the Golden Buddha Temple.
+ Kathmandu World Heritage Sightseeing Tour | Patan (+$50)
+ Entrance Fees not Included for Single Person
Kathmandu | World Heritage Sightseeing Tour
Kathmandu is filled with World Heritage sites and sacred destinations, crowded with traditional neighborhoods and colorful festivals. Spend a few days exploring Nepal's exotic capital and the history-laden Kathmandu valley. We can arrange sightseeing guide, vehicles and guides as required. See Kathmandu Heritage + Happenings for more details.
We recommend beginning with Pashupatinath in the early morning, and moving on to Boudhanath mid-morning. Hindu Pashupatinath on the sacred Bagmati river and its sacred temple complex is one of Nepal's most important sites, a powerful cremation site and Nepal's most important Hindu temple. Here, monkeys run up and down the steps of the burning ghats, and trident-bearing saddhus draped in burnt-orange and saffron sit serenely meditating, when they're not posing for photos-for-rupees. Local guides can explain the significance of the complicated ceremonies. Please be respectful when taking photos.
Boudhanath, in the midst of traditional monasteries (gompas) and hung with long strings of multi-colored prayer flags, attracts Sherpas, Tibetans and tourists alike for daily circumambulations (koras) of the iconic stupa. The striking Buddha eyes of Boudhanath Stupa watch over a lively and colorful Tibetan community and attract pilgrims from all over the Himalayan Buddhist realm. There are wonderful spots for lunch at Boudhanath (Roadhouse Cafe has wood-oven pizzas and a breathtaking view of the stupa and colorful Nepals circling it), and it's a good place to learn the technique of thanka painting and purchase a thanka (Buddhist mural). See also Bhaktapur for more options for shopping for thankas.
Wander through the many temples, pagodas, courtyards and the museum at Kathmandu Durbar Square, a timeless gathering spot and a UNESCO World Heritage site. Kathmandu Durbar Square, including the old royal palace, is Kathmandu's 'Palace Square', a showcase for the world renown artisans and craftsmen of Kathmandu and a synthesis of Hindu and Buddhist palaces, temples, stupas and statues. The Malla and Shah kings ruled over the Kathmandu Valley during the centuries of the building of the layers of this Durbar Square. Along with their opulent palaces, the square surrounds numerous courtyards and temples, all works of art with intricate and often erotic carvings. Kathmandu Durbar Square is known as Hanuman Dhoka Durbar Square, a name derived from a statue of Hanuman, the monkey devotee of Lord Ram, at the entrance of the palace. The social, religious and urban focal point of the city, Durbar Square is often the site of festivals, marriages and other ceremonies such as Teej. Some important structures are Hanuman Dhoka Palace, Kumari Ghar (Abode of the Living Goddess), Taleju Temple, built between the 12th and 18th centuries, the 17th century stone inscription set into the wall of the palace with writings in 15 languages.
In the evening (take the interesting back streets from Durbar Square) climb the many steps to the gilded Swayambhunath stupa (known as the monkey temple) which rises from the Kathmandu valley floor at 1420 meters and is one of the holiest Buddhist sites in Nepal. Swayambunath, the 'self created' stupa, was founded over 2000 years ago at a time when the Kathmandu valley was filled by a large lake, with a single lotus in the center. Mythology says that Manjusri, a bodhisvatti, drained the lake with one cut of his sword and the lotus flower was transformed into the stupa. From its commanding views of Kathmandu, circumambulate Swayambunath's white-washed stupa, painted with distinctive Buddha eyes, the complex a unique synthesis of Buddhism and Hinduism. Another interesting time to visit Swayambunath is in the mornings, when Nepalis visit the temple dedicated to the God of Smallpox to with colorful offerings for the goddess.
Stop to photograph reflections in Kathmandu's many pokhari's, or ponds, including the beautiful Rani Pokhari (queen's bath) near New Road, and the Naga Pokhari (pond of the snake gods of the underworld) just beyond the palace gates. The many bathing ghats, square enclosures with steps leading down to water spouts, often decorated with naga heads, are also interesting and colorful gathering spots.
+ Kathmandu World Heritage Sightseeing Tour | Pashupatinath, Boudhanath + Swayambunath (+$75)
+ Kathmandu Durbar Square Walking Tour | Durbar Square (+$50)
+ Entrance Fees not Included for Single Person
Everest Sightseeing Flight
An hour long extravaganza of the world's 8000 meter peaks, including airport transfers. (+$270)
Everest Sightseeing Helicopter Tour
Inquire for prices + options. Cost per helicopter.
Shivapuri Heights Cottages
A wonderful get away 20 km north of Kathmandu, Shivapuri Heights Cottages are stylishly designed and personal cottages built around a 'common house', where you can breakfast overlooking the stunningly beautiful Kathmandu valley. Massages available on request. (+$Inquire for Options)
Cycling Trip Kathmandu Valley
Many options for day trips, or extended trips, in the Kathmandu Valley. We can customize a cycling trip for you in partnership with one of our knowledgeable partners in Kathmandu. (+$Inquire for Option)
Extra Days in Kathmandu | Customize your Journey!
We have plenty of great suggestions for extra days, or weeks, in Nepal! See our Nepal & Kathmandu Modules | Customize Your Trip! to put together the perfect journey.
Mountain biking, rafting, vespa tours or yoga retreats around the Kathmandu valley or Pokhara, trips to Bhaktapur or Patan (Kathmandu Valley's other historic capital cities), a visit to the Newari temple of Changu Narayan and a night at the Fort Hotel in Nagarkot for sublime Himalayan panoramas, an Everest sightseeing flight, a luxurious stay at Temple Tree Resort & Spa, paragliding, hiking or zip-lining in Pokhara, a spa & wellness getaway at Dwarikas Resort in Dhulikhel, a relaxing excursion to Chitwan National Park Wildlife Safari & Tharu Villages (staying at Maruni Sanctuary Lodge) or Bardia National Park, a weekend of adventure, sauna and pampering at The Last Resort or five-star treatment in historic Dwarika's in Kathmandu.
Kamzang Journeys can customize any of these excursions for you, just inquire!
Namaste & Tashi Delek!
© Kim Bannister


text:
From the best-selling author of Public Enemies and The Big Rich, an explosive account of the decade-long battle between the FBI and the homegrown revolutionary movements of the 1970s.
The Weathermen. The Symbionese Liberation Army. The FALN. The Black Liberation Army. The names seem quaint now, when not forgotten altogether. But there was a stretch of time in America, during the 1970s, when bombings by domestic underground groups were a daily occurrence. The FBI combated these groups and others as nodes in a single revolutionary underground dedicated to the violent overthrow of the American government.
The FBI's response to the leftist revolutionary counterculture has not been treated kindly by history, and in hindsight many of its efforts seem almost comically ineffectual, if not criminal in themselves. But part of the extraordinary accomplishment of Bryan Burrough's Days of Rage is to temper those easy judgments with an understanding of just how deranged these times were, how charged with menace. Burrough re-creates an atmosphere that seems almost unbelievable just 40 years later, conjuring a time of native-born radicals, most of them "nice middle-class kids" smuggling bombs into skyscrapers and detonating them inside the Pentagon and the US Capitol, at a Boston courthouse and a Wall Street restaurant packed with lunchtime diners - radicals robbing dozens of banks and assassinating policemen in New York, San Francisco, Atlanta. The FBI, encouraged to do everything possible to undermine the radical underground, itself broke many laws in its attempts to bring the revolutionaries to justice - often with disastrous consequences.
©2015 Bryan Burrough (P)2015 Penguin Audio
"Essential for understanding recent US history."
This book was very eye opening. It's a very different historical perspective to what I knew from pop cultural histories of the 60s and 70s and helped me to understand how the right wing hysteria over all and any progressive liberal ideas was founded. It's also fascinating to see how the extreme left wing and extreme progressives talked themselves into an ideological trap where they justified their terroristic tactics to themselves. The narrative is very clearly laid out and explains how political and ideological developments led groups into insurgency.
"Amazing treatment of tough history"
No other book has the fine detail of every single group and radical action of the period. The author treats the victims of the violence of the era with great respect and empathy and exposes the fraud and duplicity of many of the groups at hand. He also gives chilling details of those groups that were not just playing. A must for anyone interested in the 1970s. Ray Porter is an outstanding reader.
"Great book on a little-discussed chapter of American culture"
Great book on the after effects of the 60s movements with which we are so familiar.
Great book
"Great book about a much forgotten time"
This book is sort of a non-political look into a truly unique time in American history that is all but forgotten to anyone who didn't actually live through it. And, even then, most have forgotten. Really well written and read.
"Fantastic can't believe this all happened and they get a slap on the hands!!!!"
Great read/listen and these are the professors in the colleges/universities now teaching our kids go figure
"Incredible forgotten history of the terrorist left!"
First and most important, the reader is fantastic make the book an easy listen. Second, the author goes out of his way to give the point of view of the radicals that were doing the bombing, making this a history not a political rant. Third, the scope of the terror unleashed, the deranged and unrepentant views of the participants will leave you wondering what they've been up to while at "peace" and what would happen if a new generation were so inclined. Scary but fascinating-I highly recommend!
"Ray Porter is tha bomb!"
the Coen brother should make a movie about the SLA chapters alone as a farce leading into a horrific tragedy.
"Amazing how so many bombings got so little attention"
Well narrated! A good, full history of pre-9/11 terrorism in the US. The public reaction to the endless bombings is quite interesting. Begs the question what would citizens and the 24hr news stations do if it happened today?
"some rumors goin 'round, someone's underground..."
"And there's some rumors going 'round, someone's underground" The Eagles, "Witchy Woman," 1972
This is THE new treatise on the radical left of the 1970s, including the Weatherman from early 1970 to 1972, the Black Liberation Army from the Spring of 1971 to 1973, the Weather Underground in 1973, the Symbionese Liberation Army from November 1973 to 1974 and the FALN of the late 1970s , the last being the communist organization fighting for Puerto Rican "independence." This book is a thorough review of these organizations and the people behind them, some of whom were imprisoned and some who have escaped the authorities until this day. The explosives used in the bombings were mostly ineffective, but killed innocent people. I don't know that many of those responsible are truly remorseful. As the book captures, a lot of these "radicals" had a savior complex.
I think the author did as best he could with the materials he had. Mr. Burrough certainly illuminated the reasons underlying the formation of these terrorist groups - it was more due to racism than the war in Vietnam and most of the members of the primarily white factions were liberal rich kids. Yet, I found the book lacking as a compelling read in the nature of the best historical literature of late.
If you came of age during the 1970s though, and have memories of the evening news reports of a new bombing every few weeks and surreal names like Symbionese and the kidnapping of Patty Hearst, I recommend this in-depth history of a turbulent time in our nation's past.
"Get up and change it yourself !!"
What a terrific insider view of the days of rage. I lived those times and knew not why all this was happening. In hindsight, they were ahead of the times...and so it remains. Life has no remote, get up and change it yourself!!
"Sneering, unobjective tone"
Burrough took a very interesting topic, did a great deal of research and could have written a great book about it. Alas, he did not. The sneering tone of much of his analysis diminishes his credibility to the point where the listener/reader cannot trust his analysis and reportage. Very unbalanced.
The focus on Bernadine Dohrn's sexuality and physical attractiveness got tiresome -- and more than a little bit creepy.
Probably not.
He did a sincere interpretation of the snide, unobjective book, but at some points even seemed to exaggerate it.
It's an interesting bit of history -- and the book did keep me interested, but I would choose a different book if I were a reader new to the subject.
Packed with details and low on judgements this is a a fascinating account of a different age of strife. Well worth listening to twice.
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subset: commoncrawl


text:
Thyme and white wine add a little complexity to hearty black-eyed pea soup. Recipe below.
I know, I know. I was supposed to write about black-eyed peas before the new year. After all, they're one of those foods you eat on New Year's Eve (or is it New Year's Day?) to bring you luck in the coming year. But this soup and this post were inspired by a little neighborhood restaurant we had the good luck to discover on New Year's Day.
We awoke bleary eyed New Year's Day morning after a night of celebrating in a South Loop bar with friends Carmen, Maurice and Ben. Still, we somehow managed to feed and dress ourselves before noon and head out the door for an antiques flea market that someone thought was a good idea to hold on New Year's Day. Bland, efficient expressways took us to the far flung western suburbs (where someone thought it was a good idea to hold it).
After some successful antique hunting, we opted for a more interesting route home. It turned out the Main Street we were on becomes North Avenue as it heads into the city, a straight line practically to our neighborhood. Driving back was like rewinding a documentary about metropolitan Chicago's expansion. As we neared home, we realized we were famished and started weighing various carryout options, trying to figure out who might even be open on the first day of the year.
And suddenly, there on a nondescript corner on a residential block, we spotted The Brown Sack. It looked promising from the outside, especially with the OPEN sign in the window. Inside was just as promising—relaxed and cheerful. My only concern was that the extensive chalkboard menu might be a little overambitious, and there were even additional specials at listed the counter. Could a quiet little corner place really do that much well?
I needn't have worried. Chef Malaika Marion and her husband Adam Lebin have been in the restaurant business for 25 years now, managing such places as Lula Cafe, Opera and Red Light. This homey little spot is exactly what they wanted to do on their own. Everything we had was delicious—my tender, juicy slow-roasted pork sandwich, topped with slightly spicy coleslaw. Marion's pot roast sandwich with diced carrots and potatoes tucked into the baguette along with the meat. And a cup of simple black-eyed pea soup that has already proven to be lucky: We've just discovered a great new neighborhood spot.
This black-eyed pea soup recipe isn't an attempt to recreate the satisfying soup we had at The Brown Sack. It's merely a nod to our good fortune that day. I also didn't want to take the soup in an especially Southern direction. Yes, black-eyed peas are closely associated with the South. In fact, one possible explanation for the origin of their status as a good luck meal dates back to the Civil War. When Union soldiers advanced through the South, destroying food crops as they went to hasten the end of the war, they spared black-eyed pea plants, which they called cowpeas, apparently considering them merely livestock food. But I wanted to take this soup in a slightly different direction. I left out collard greens (or any kind of greens, for that matter) and added a little wine to the broth for that thing that wine does so well in even the most rustic dishes.
I also used fresh black-eyed peas rather than canned or dried. I've been finding them already shelled in some supermarkets these days. They cook more quickly than dried and have a slightly nutty, fresher taste than canned. Increasingly, frozen black-eyed peas have also been showing up in supermarkets. That said, any kind will work. Adjust cooking time if you use dried black-eyed peas, including some soaking time, but you can use the same two-cup amount. A 15-ounce can of black-eyed peas will have about 1-1/2 cups of beans, close enough for government work. Drain and rinse them, then add them in the last five minutes or so of cooking time to warm them through. With frozen, use two cups and follow cooking time instructions on the package.
Black-eyed Pea Soup with Thyme
Serves 2 as a main course (with a crusty bread) or 4 as a starter
3 slices bacon
canola oil
1 medium onion, chopped
1 rib celery, diced
1 medium carrot, diced
1 large clove garlic, minced
1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves (or generous 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme)
2 cups water (plus extra, if needed)
1 cup chicken broth
1/2 cup dry white wine
1 bay leaf
12 ounces fresh black-eyed peas (about 2 cups)
In a large stock pot or Dutch oven, cook bacon until almost crisp. Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate to drain. Reduce heat to medium-low and add onion, celery and carrot to pot. (You want about 2 tablespoons of oil in the pot to sweat the vegetables. Drain off excess bacon fat if there is too much—I actually had to add canola oil to the pan, since the bacon I used was on the lean side.) Cook vegetables for about 15 minutes, stirring occasionally to avoid browning. Reduce heat, if necessary.
Add garlic and thyme to pot and cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 45 seconds. Add water, broth and wine to pot and stir, scraping up any browned bits. Add bay leaf and black-eyed peas to pot and raise heat to medium-high. Bring soup to a boil, then reduce heat to low, partially cover pot with lid and simmer soup until peas are tender, about 20 to 25 minutes.
To slightly thicken soup, either mash some of the black-eyed peas in the pot with a hand masher or transfer some to a bowl with some broth and use an immersion blender to purée. Then stir it back into the pot. Discard bay leaf and serve soup with a crusty baguette or bread.
Hungry for more black-eyed pea recipes? Here are a couple of my favorites. In the first one, they make a lively chili powder-powered salsa for curried steaks. In the second, they team up with cherry tomatoes, green beans, bacon and chicken for a vaguely Italian one-skillet meal.


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CORVALLIS - Oregon State University is hosting a series of spring and Saturday visits that give prospective students and their families the chance to learn the basics of university life.
Dates set aside for Spring Visits include Feb. 18, March 25 and April 12. The February visit coincides with the Presidents Day holiday, while the March visit is scheduled when many high schools and community colleges are out for spring break.
Saturday tours are less formalized, but can offer opportunities to talk with OSU students and faculty, as well as learn about student organizations and involvement activities. Saturday tours are scheduled: Feb. 2 and 23; March 9; April 20; May 18 and June 8.
All programs are free. For information and registration, contact OSU Admission and Orientation at 800-291-4192 or 541-737-2626. Information is also available on the World Wide Web. Spring Visits begin at noon with optional tours of OSU facilities. The events offer an opportunity to spend an afternoon meeting with OSU students, faculty and staff. Activities include workshops for transfer students, academic college presentations and overviews of the OSU Honors College, international opportunities, housing and dining, financial aid, and multicultural opportunities. There will also be sessions that encourage students, parents and family members to ask questions about university life.
Students unable to attend the sessions can schedule weekday campus tours.
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I was in a situation the other day that brought up some anxiety and uncertainty. The troubled feelings still linger as I write these words to you, although they are less intense now.
Fear comes and goes. It's like a storm or strong wind that blows up in sudden fury and then diminishes and dies away.
We cannot stop fear from entering our lives. But what we can do, and indeed must do when it rises up, is remember that our true nature is not fear.
Love is our true nature. Gentle, strong and timeless. How I love what does not change, and does not come and go -- the love that animates each of us and is who we truly are. One presence. One love. One whole.
Fear is rampant in our world, of course. But as I listen to love's eternal presence I know that fear is not an enemy. It is a messenger that may have something useful to say to us. It is a lost friend who seeks our love. It is a little bit of lost energy that wants to come home.
As I change my attitude toward fear a miracle happens. An ancient law asserts itself: As love increases, fear decreases.
I bless you in your journey. If you have some thoughts you'd like to share please write.
Picture credit: mk_lynx