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1) looking for Douglas Tottle – Fraud Famine Fascism2) World Federation of Trade Unions is exposing the TUC leaders NATO militarism, and showing the biggest unions who call for ceasefire in one country while sending weapons to bomb another, how to do international solidarity.
Greatly explaining the arch that was featured on Bald And Bankrupts "This Country Was Ready For War" video. Thanks!
Hello Michael Harrison from the UK, I just wanted to call to your attention that this book of Mao is missing: https://www.bannedthought.net/China/Individuals/MaoZedong/Books/WritingsOfMaoZedongPost-1949-Chinese-sm.pdf
Also, the last volumes of Mao's Road to Power: Revolutionary Writings 1912-1949 was published, yet it is not on your website.
The Belize Valley Archaeological Reconnaissance Project does excavations in the area and seeks summer volunteers, with the possibility of academic credit through Northern Arizona University. The similar Maya Research Program does work in northwestern Belize. I've thought about volunteering or otherwise visiting Belize, but I haven't been to Mesoamerica at this point. Are the decapitated figures mentioned on El Castillo supposed to be modelled on specific people and if so who were they?
The Belize Valley Archaeological Reconnaissance Project, which Dr Jaime Awe is a co-director of, does excavations in the area and seeks summer volunteers, with the possibility of academic credit through Northern Arizona University. The deadline for the 2024 field school with academic credit is in February, though there might be flexibility. The similar Maya Research Program does work in northwestern Belize. I've thought about volunteering or otherwise visiting Belize, but I haven't done much travelling at this point. I've wanted to visit Mesoamerica, especially central Mexico, and the American tropics for a long time, so this is an interesting series of posts.
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Hi Michael I'm searching for a trail guide of Els tres mont. any idea where I can find one? Trail description directions to trailheads etc. thanks Maureen Connors
email@example.com -
I found some interesting books here. Thank you very much. But what a pity that some books are in image format, not PDF. It would be great if all books are available in PDF. By the way, the link to
On Literature and Art, Progress, Moscow, 1973, 509 pages.
is broken.
Best regards
Naser -
Firstly I very much enjoy meandering through your wonderful website, especially the Albanian writings.
The tampering of this mosaic is certainly an interesting topic.
"The War of National Liberation against the invading fascists, first Italian then the German Nazis, was led by and principally carried out by Albanian Communists. " I am not sure David Smiley would agree. I think the history Albanian resistance has not been fully understood and published. The communist regime most certainly exaggerated their effectiveness and of course set the narrative for the Ballists and Legalitit combatants.
Grover Furr is not a Soviet Historian! He's a despicable apologist for Joseph Stalin and denier of his atrocities! Furr has a degree in Medieval English not Russian History or any history! Conquest didn't lie about anything Skunkwipe! He used legitimate sources and provided evidence of Stalin's genocide! Furr ignored evidence and provided worthless sources! He's the scum of the earth and so are you!
can I have wattapp number in order to communcate with someone to answer my questions regarding Spring 6 at Tskaltubo – Georgia
Well, you may be right about that, for little appeared to be going on this week ((the one which ends up with oil being wiped over the British head of state. But the statutes of Lenin and Stalin, at least, have moved from the gallery's back yard to the (impeccably kept) front garden of Mehmet Shehu's house, now guarded by security men. Makes of that what you will….
Michael, I wonder if we might have permission to use your photograph of Beggars Bridge to accompany a biographical entry for Thomas Ferres? He is to be included in a new book on people related to Hull over many centuries which is currently being compiled to mark 100 years of Lord Mayors in Hull.. All proceeds are to go to the Lord Mayor of Hull's charities. I look forward to hearing from you. Dr Robb Robinson R.N.,firstname.lastname@example.com
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Thanks for this write up. It was very helpful. Would you please tell me if they move all business class seats towards to forward movement direction of the train? Thanks!
This is quite an old post, but the third artist would be Frederik Shuka.
Hello, Petro Sota was my grandfather's brother. There is a book made about him. Also there is the technical university of Albania that was named after him.
I can give you more details on his life.
As per the sculpture in 2014. It was paid by my grandpa in honour of his brother. The original monument was destroyed when the city council gave the land to UAE mollahs to build a mosque without any consultation and through some generous bribes.
My grandpa collected a few favours here and there in order to get the statue there.
Side note, Raqi Sota (another brother also died during the occupation) him and Petro were exercising their aim when a bullet ricocheted and killed Raqi. He was later made hero of the people.
As per Petro, he was being followed based on information given by a local spy. He noticed that he was being spied and tried to get into a local "bar". He tried escaping from the windows since he had in his possession a lot of over 40 something names of the resistance. He got shot, and tried eating the letter based on the local eye witnesses. The fascist broke his jaw while his was dying in order to get the letter. Apparently the letter was so damp with blood and chewed that it was unusable.
He got shot a total of 28 times total. And left in the the middle of what yes to be the market for 2 days. His father went to pick up his corpse on the 3rd day by night time.
After this incident, his/my family was sent to the goulag for 2 years.
They were able to come back when the Germans were defeated.
Hello Michael,
Thank you very much for this very accurate and useful article. There is so much good content.
Glad you shared the coordinates as some points are really hard top find.
I'm currently in Albania and will take time to visit some of these fabulous places.
Keep up the good work. -
May have been moved recently…
https://balkaninsight.com/2022/08/30/albanian-governments-stalin-lenin-art-installation-stirs-anger/ -
Liverpool Town Hall.
"The four spandrels (the triangular corner paintings) are by Charles Furse …"
They are called pendentives, not spandrels. -
Liverpool Town Hall.
"The statue at the top of the first flight of stairs is of George Canning, an MP for the town and Prime Minister for 4 months in 1827, was completed in 1832 by Francis Chantry." — Chantrey seems to be the preferred spelling. -
Not mentioned directly is the fact that at Yalta and Teheran, Stalin, Churchill and Roosevelt agreed that Greece would be in the Western sphere, whereas Albania and Yugoslavia would be in the Eastern sphere. If Stalin had broken the agreement and supplied arms and support, the Greek communists would certainly have won control of the country after the war.
Dear Micheal
You have done a great work publishing all of these issues. I hope you will publish more on your blog in the next month. That would be amazing. I hope you're still active
Hi Michael, an incredible work you have done with pulling together all this content. I am the found out albaniangallery.art website and was wondering if I can republish some of your articles on my website. Without saying the credits will go to you as author/curator. let me know if I get your permission. Regards Alban
Are you related to the Michael Harrison who was moved to leave the rather disobliging assessment of Rinas airport, and those who work in it, last year ? If you are, it sounds as things do not only get better…
Another attempt by the imperial core to offload the blame for their own problems onto the victims of neocolonialism. Perhaps somewhat related to this was the recent remark by William Windsor blaming environmental damage on "Africa's rapidly growing human population."
Hi Michael,
Interesting site/content. A 1952/3 book caught my eye: https://michaelharrison.org.uk/2018/08/jv-stalin-biographies-reminiscences-and-appraisals/
I became skeptical and did a search. According to the only Amazon review of the Budu Svanidze book, it "was exposed as a forgery shortly after it came out by historian Boris Souvarine (Bulletin de l'Association d'Etudes et d'Informations Politiques Internationales, May 1953, Nos. 88 and 89.)" I acquired the articles and confirmed they do indeed refer to this book as a forgery – along with several others. I could send them along with my translations if you'd like.
A Reeeeally Wonderful Website! Learn a lot from it ! Precious documentaries!
—— From a Maoist Researcher China
Hi there
I read your reviews regularly. It would be helpful to know whether you have been to North Korea, either as a tourist (as I have); as a guest of the DPRK; or in your own right. It might actually help people to understand more clearly the pluses and minuses of that amazing country.
Hi, can tell you now, the Historical Basis for socialism in Ireland is from 1919, originally published in New York
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It is a pity there are still uninformed people like you Michael and Thomas Mrett that believe executed innocents during communism in Albania do not deserve rehabilitation. Communist's leaders in Albania were nothing more than murderers! They isolated the country to destruction only for their privileges.
During king Zog, Albania recognized economic growth. Private property and free speech was never denied, nor were people executed for speaking their mind. -
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"The organisation still exists but seems to function more as a mouthpiece of the Chinese government in Britain and providing its members with official visits to capitalist China."
"…Now it praises the erstwhile Socialist country for its capitalist (and imperialist) development."
Excuse me, what? -
Hi Michael,
I've been following your blog for a long time now. It's probably the best account online relating to the socialist era of Albania. I have a question regarding a building that was once located in Tirana, you might be able to help me. The building is the Museum House of the Party and I can't figure out if it is still standing or what might be at its location now. If you have any idea I'd appreciate the info.
A few additional points about revisionists: https://youtu.be/O71pyIghiRI?t=10350
consciousnessly speaking
It's not easy to refrain from commenting. This time wanted to say that couldn't have ever read his invaluable speech hadn't it been singled out here. Many many thanks! I expected it to be interesting but not easy and understandable. One is able to see what he means. We are very different people now from then conscientiously speaking, but the then reality was also different from what is pictured here in 1958. A cultural revolution must've been due much earlier than beginning of '80s.
when i look at the lapidar sculpture i just know it. We've known the Peza stories of WWII when we were young from many sources, history school books, movies, literature etc.
And i'm thinking now but find that i am not able to even mention a specific book or story, it seems a long time ago. -
Hi Mr. Harrison,
The group to the left relates to the event of the partisan intervention in the village of Peza after the fascists burnt and massacred it. Peza has been burnt more than once by fascists as it was known to be a great support point to local and other partisan çeta.
What is happening with the left hand side group is, the harmed and vulnerable peasants are desperately welcoming the partisans as these arrive the last minute to rescue them from fascists.
The trio of family is instead a group of unrelated people: The non-uniformed partisan has just rescued the orphan baby most likely from a burning house and is holding the baby, whose one hand is on shoulder of the woman partisan. I can't figure out what she holds in her left hand either but they're about to go secure the baby in a safe place away from the bullets field where he is taken care of.Next, the woman resting her head on the man's chest is in fact the mother of the partisan, an old lady, and she has been desperately looking for him and his partisan friends to come any minute now to save them from the disgrace. The little guy is her grandson she's guarding while his father – meaning her son which is near her now – is away from home fighting for freedom.
In the meantime partisan çeta is fiercely fighting with the fascists. In this fight they are joined by village men, the village always being a reliable point of support for partisans.
The partisans of the çeta of Peza, were some of the very first organizations that would later become the national liberation army structured into brigades and divisions. At this initial stage we encounter partisans in distinguishable uniforms and already communists as well as many partisans still on their own local outfits, these maybe recently having joined the çeta or that while into a fighter mentality were not yet a partisan. But they would become soon.
Also Peza was one of the very first liberated sites during antifascist war with the national liberation council regulating and governing the area being the people's power established there. This is what we see to the right group of the memorial, the unified group of communist partisans, non-communist partisans, civilians and village people. Among the four front figures the two civilians who stand in the middle should be the leading figures of national liberation council for Peza.
All are armed nevertheless. All civilian people are armed to the best they can and stand unified around their power representatives, the national liberation council and communist partisans. -
verses are actual folk songs, Mavrova and Drashovica are individual villages and it's being sung to each one of them altogether. You Mavrovë and you Drashovicë, what havoc combined that day, machine guns and artillery, the night looked like day.
Hysni Kapo like a hawk, threw himself over barbed wires, spoke himself to the germans, surrender you hateful aggressor. -
"they eat bread once in three days"
With Shkoder being the last liberated, on Nov. 29th 1944, the Albanian National Liberation Army kept the fights going beyond country northern borders, in the area of Kosova and further northern to that, in Yugoslavian territory, helping neighbours and pushing Germans as further away the Albanians border as possible. These last army sections returned home in 1945.
My grandfather fought there and returned home only that year.
the mosaic man in suit with a piece of paper in hand is an Albanian renaissance figure rather than Ismail Qemali, the independence man.
this man is likely one of the three Frasheri brothers, probably Sami Frasheri or Abdyl Frasheri. Sami Frasheri the youngest, more of a philosopher, wrote the precious piece "Albania what was, what is and what will be", Abdyl Frasheri the olderst was leader of the League of Prizren a unifying congress for albanians fighting against Turkey, 1878. Naim Frasheri, the second brother, was a great Albanian renaissance poet, maybe the greatest of the era.Edvin Rama is disinterested in survival of the mosaic and is intentionally allowing its disintegration just like he's doing with every socialist era buildings, architecture, structures, that have survived to date. His ambition is replacing the urban layout of the centre of Tirana so that no sign of pre '90s is left as remembrance of that period.
In addition to Frasheri brothers, Edvin Rama recognized a successor of them Mit'hat Frasheri who headed a collaborationist government to Nazis during WWII, honoring him and adding him space in the grave ansamble of the trio Frasheri brothers. This was carried out in speedy sneaky but nevertheless official way, Rama being aware of not being allowed to do so if acts were publicly announced beforehand. -
there's a typo on painter's name, the work "Partisan Vow"
correctly spelled it is Guri Madhi. Thank you so much. -
I am looking to read the short Soviet booklets as part of the series "The Fifteen Soviet Republics Today and tomorrow."
I have read one on Azerbaijan, printed in 1959
Michael thank you for making such wonderful socialist resources available to those who are still fighting for a socialist society ie here in England
Very good article. Thanks.
Can I ask a question. Is there at least one party of workers in England? Is there a "red university"? a "university of worker correspondents"? a "red channel" on youtube?«The Party's
the compass
that keeps us on course,
the backbone
of the whole working class.» -
Wonderful post! Let we never forget the enormous sacrifice the Sovjets made for the defeat of Nazi-Germany and the liberation of Europe!
Thank you, Michael. It's a precious information, which helps us very much, to better understand the global situation. Stay strong. No pasarán !
Just out of curiousity, I think that you can make a specific post about Vietnam under Doi Moi from your perspective. That would be great.
This was very interesting reading. For me, as someone with no ideological skin in the game, what;s quite interesting from reading "Reflections on China" (I have a *lot* of time nowadays, as do many of us!…how I got here in fact) is that Hoxha finds Mao irreducibly weird from early on, because he's Chinese, or more broadly, Asian. I think the subjective aspect of this is mostly positive, i.e. he;s not being ethnocentric, but simply trying to make sense of a leader, and a country, that are totally befuddling to him even though they're his only significant allies. It's also interesting how Hoxha, whose cult of personality was a figure of fun in the West, convincingly distinguishes between the utilitarian rationale for that phenomenon in Albania and what he sees as the beyond-all-reason (and again, only understandable in cultural context) cults of Mao and Kim.
As a Vietnamese I am saddened by the parts you said after Doi Moi :(.
Thank you, Michael, for all this information. I think many comments, you make about UK, apply also to Spain and Catalonia… unfortunately.
Dear Michael
Find your link from Stalin Society India and saw that you are doing very
good work by posting Albania today with its contents.
I will see if I have missing numbers after 15th April if lock down ends here in India.
Our Facebook page-Kamgar Prakashan.
Balram Sharma -
I am delighted to see this very full and thoughtful article about the fantastic art in the Tirana Gallery. My wife and I were there in 2015 – very briefly in a gap in our tourist tour of the country. We were the only people on the first floor enjoying these extraordinary examples of socialist realist art – an art style which has been almost totally removed from the ex-Soviet bloc countries' galleries. The floor attendant was very concerned that we were taking photographs – so the ones I took (mainly of industrial scenes) were rather hurried and sometimes out of focus. But I have a selection of those in this brilliant overview, and a few more which may not have been there in 2015.
Are you aware of any book covering these key works of a very significant period of western art which is so ignored by the bulk of the British art establishment ? If not, have you ever thought about publishing your own ? It would be a pity to lose these works as has happened nearly everywhere else.
Thank you for bringing this to public attention
In re "The breasts seem like small bowels that have been plunked on their chests" – I think you meant 'bowls'
The other thing is that a gang of telecommunications workers (cable layers) are also treated as heroic in Venedikt Yerofeev's "Moscow Circles' Anti-heroes may be more accurate, or maybe parodies of heroes, or fasiledf heroes, but even then the idea is drawing on what I think might have been a known figure of heroic legend at some times in the Soviet imagination. Cf. Solzhenitsyn's canal-workers, perhaps harking back to and inheriting something of an image of heroic road-builders (Lermontov?) and/or railway workers, all pioneers in the opening up of communication, progress, snd the bringing of modernity, even in earlier, pre-Soviet times. Is this fair ? -
This is a stupendously wonderful resource, particularly for someone who first went to Albania in the 80s but who now fears that his own memories will fade as the things which one could marvel at in the 80s also fade from view. May your work prosper.
The icon "Bloody Martyrdom" depicts a real historical event. Two Franciscans from Italy – Giacomo da Sarnano and Ferdinando d'Albissola – were impaled by the Muslims in 1648. That's why the dress of the bystanders is old (foustanellas etc). More details here: Pacifico Sella, "Testimonianze inedite circa il martirio dei frati minori Giacomo da Sarnano e Ferdinando d'Albissola (Scutari 28 febbraio 1648)", (2015), https://dialnet.unirioja.es/descarga/articulo/5533704.pdf
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Fabulous detailed info Michael. Thank you. We visited Martyrs cemetery on the anniversary of the slain student and were fortunate to meet his cousin and friend at the graveside.
We later went to Hoxhe new grave. The road you turn off is 10.minites walk from the end of the bus line, and continues in the direction the bus was travelling (the part of your text where you said to keep on the returning bus and continue walking was ambiguous: it was not clear if you should walk on the return direction or continuing out if town direction).
Excellent information all round though. Thankyou for taking the time to post.
Wonderful photos and commentary. Perhaps you can initiate a Go-Fund-Me effort to finance a rhinoplasty for Comrade Enver? I am good for a small contribution.
Good to read this this is true but seldom taught amongst friends and all us , should ,know yes
Thank you for letting us see some of real history , not mentioned oft I have a b a in political science and I am no smarter than the most average person believe me but the way Greece was treated was reprehensible they were committed to the fight that we anericans we're simple as that and also simple perhaps also takes so much work but it's the peace building with egalitarian robust energetic cooperative economies of human civilization without nationalist division but with national distinction a true communism would be the greatest step towards peace
Dear Mr. Harrison,
I was wondering if I could use the picture of "The Hanged Women – Gjirokastra", the first one in this article, for a little quiz on twitter?
Some colleagues and I run a channel called @quiztime, where we post weekly quizzes for other so solve in order to train for geolocation and verification skills.
The image would be attached to a tweet tomorrow for people as a hint where to start the search.
Looking forward to hearing from you.
Best regards
Tilman -
Thank you, Michael. There are many aspects of your report that I didn't know… See you… No pasaran !
I used to work in Martins Bank International Branch in Water Street. I now live in Nottingham but often visit Liverpool to meet up with friends whom I used to work with. Could you let me know if there are any plans to see inside the beautiful old building or heritage days organised for this year.?
One clue as to the strangeness or incomprehensibility of the figures/bas reliefs around the monument is given by this translation of a guide-book-style website (1):
"The monument was projected by a group of artists resident in Ushuaia, directed by the sculptor Vilma Nattero and represents the silhouette of the islands."The group-produced artwork has a built-in tendency towards inconsistency in execution. The "group of artists resident in Ushuaia" may have been no more than the local arts club, with members of varying competence. Bringing the local community into the construction of a monument under the direction of a 'proper' artist sounds like a good idea, but it does run the risk of producing below-par work, as you clearly illustrate.
Oh dear, bang goes my credibility as a commentator of the left! At least, given the date, I can claim that I was under the influence of sherry and mince pies while failing to distinguish my Galtieris from my Pinochets. Thanks for not laughing too loudly!
Mike, apart from the egregious use of 'it's' when you should write 'its' (the English teacher writing here) this is a very entertaining and genuinely interesting piece of travel writing and matches anything to be found in the Guardian or elsewhere. [You might recall I left those animated arguments with yourself, Norman and Richard et al in the Caernavon pub, after the usual Friday show in the Merseyside Film Society, and headed out of the UK in 1980.] I was teaching in Jamaica at the time of the Falklands war and there was a strange sense of pride amongst some of the ex-pats who worked with me at the school. I saw it as a piece of grotesque opportunism from the Thatcher government. It was almost as if the Argentinian military dictatorship had colluded with her. Her wildest dreams came true as she was able to wrap herself in the union flag, sit in the front of tanks and in put back progress even further.
The museum seems rather tacky and the semi-detached house it seems to be based in (I'm looking at the blue fencing outside) might be a model for the development of future British museums, given government cuts.
Mike, I admire what you're doing here. There's quite an interesting alternative world view available although, as you would probably guess, I don't agree with much of what you say. Anyway keep travelling and wrirting.
This looks like deliberate policy on the part of the owners – you do not say whether it is privately owned or state-run. Assuming the latter, and that post-junta Argentinian governments have been broadly centrist or left-wing, you'd think that some historical analysis of the failings of Pinochet would have been highlighted. On the other hand, if it is privately-owned, perhaps the owners are/were pro-Pinochet and don't want too many historical questions asked. Some perspective on this might be gained by studying the date when the museum was opened.
It is an awkward, unbalanced monument (compare the image of the miner in your earlier post, which had the merit of capturing with some skill the powerful dynamics of a man and a manual drill) which, though abstract up to a point, reminds me of some form of plant-life, with shoots growing from the ground at different heights. From these green(?) shoots emerge the faces of workers – presumably a generic visage to embrace all workers, though specifically in this case the office-workers at the FOM HQ. Again, though, the image is unclear. Perhaps the Pinochet lackeys realised the message of this monument was too obscure to become any sort of focus for discontent, and certainly not worth the cost of dismantling it. Or perhaps they didn't get the point, either.
I read this statue as something like 'the spirit of Argentina', represented by a modern woman (hence the clothing) in rebellious pose (the exposed breast a reference to Delacroix's 'Liberty Leading the People', as well as the Amazon warrior), armed with a lance (to represent a willingness for armed conflict) and a book (to represent the importance of education and civilisation). I am not so sure that this is intended to be an indigenous person – I don't see the evidence or the rationale for that.
I think the bronze (?) panels with the Malvinas silhouette are effective, but a fair amount of expense seems to have been spared on the statue, which is slowly mouldering away. Pity, because it is an arresting image.
Hoy los recordamos …. aqui, en calles y escuelas…
"Today we remember them, in the streets and in the schools…"
And those are precisely the places where we should teach others about what some people wish to do to us. (And if not, the internet must do, as it does here! Of course, I did not know of this piece of history, but I do now.)
We are beginning to see the 'minute's applause' in the UK, in sports grounds and similar, which as you say requires a tad more participation than silence. It also obviates the possibility of a silent period being hijacked by counter-demonstrators (or just idiots) wishing to make their voices heard.
The inability of the teachers to coordinate with other workers over demonstrations is surely not because they cannot see the point of doing so, but because such organisation requires a lot of background work – which teachers (if their profession is anything like ours) simply will not have the time to do; their primary responsibility is for the children. State operatives, on the other hand, are paid to coordinate their responses.
Your first mural illustrated is indeed grotesque – what makes it so is the children's comic idiom in which the soldier is (not very expertly) drawn. What does this say about the mindset of the artist? Gross sentimentality, perhaps, but certainly not the thoughtful dignity with which the 649 deserve to be remembered. That said, this particular area of the country seems well short of good street artists – none of the murals shown is especially well executed, the soldier-grandma image desperately short of artistry. Perhaps the best is the simplest – the "649, siempre eran nuestros heros" image. (I'm surprised that the Spanish plural is "heroes" rather than "heros", but then again my Spanish never progressed beyond O level.)
It's regrettable that the memorial is poorly maintained, but as you imply, it seems to be trying to say too much at once. The backwards tilt of the main element is intended, I suggest, to reflect agony (a soldier shot while advancing into enemy fire, perhaps). I can't make much of the rest. -
Some remarkable images here, Michael! Well done for circulating them.
As for the G20 Summit, we are reminded that among the plenipotentiaries attending is that currently interesting character from the Middle East MBS, whom the Argentinian authorities might (it is reported here) attempt to arrest!
I'm not holding my breath on that one, though.
Looking forward to reading the rest of this, Michael!
Fascinating as usual, Michael. A great posting.
Adam -
Mosque with cross.
Hi, thanks for sharing. I was just wondering if anyone could tell me if the finikas lines ferry from corfu to saranda was reliable?
Hey! Just wondering once in Saranda how easy is it to bus to Durres?
Hi Michael,
Two days ago I visited Skadar and the Franciscan church. After coming home looking for some information I found your story. I'll probably visit her again. Thanks for this fantastic explanation.
Aida -
Hi Michael,
The statue of Bajram Curri is by Fuat Dushku (who also worked on the monument of the Four Heroines of Mirdita, which was formerly in Rreshen, but was destroyed after the end of socialism). I found this artcle (http://www.fjalaelire.com/tema/27967.html), which seems to indicate the Bajram Curri statue was inaugurated in 1982, corresponding to the anniversary of Albanian independence.
Thank you for this – San Michele al Pozzo Bianco is my favorite church in Bergamo, where I have the good fortune to be living for a while.
And regarding the quaint saint with spectacles, I have come across two more and thought you might be interested.Both are in Lorenzo Lotto paintings of the assumption with the apostles.
The first one is the the 1512 Assumption of the Virgin now in the Brera Pinacoteca in Milan (http://pinacotecabrera.org/en/collezione-online/opere/assunzione-della-vergine-3/) in which the apostle on the far right is looking up, through spectalces, as if to better see or validate it, at Mary going to heaven on a cloud pushed by bunch of cupid-looking angels.
The second one is the 1527 altarpiece in the Church of Santa Maria Assunta in Calena, Bergamo (https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/ad/Lorenzo_lotto%2C_assunta_di_celana%2C_1527%2C_00.jpg). Here, the bespeckled apostle is in the center, behind the empty tomb.
My best guess is that the bespeckled in the Lotto paintings is Saint-I-have-to-see-it-to-believe-it-Thomas, but I am not sure of this. -
During my search for information on war memorials in Albania I came across your blog. Having read the information, you stated that you did not know the background of the changes made to the cemetary after the 1980s. Chances are that you have already deepened your knowledge in the meantime and I have simply not read the follow-up posts, but if this is not yet the case, maybe this article that I have found online as well might be of interest to you.
https://www.memorialmuseums.org/eng/staettens/view/1262/Memorial-to-the-Victims-of-the-Wehrmacht-Massacre-of-Borov%C3%ABSincerely yours, Karen
The pistol held by the defeated German soldier is not a Luger. It is a Walther P-38.
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WWII Albanian Nazi collaborator statues in Macedonia – built by the ethnic Albanian political parties.
My wife is English and has taught English in Saranda 6 years. We lived in Ipsos Corfu 8 years.When you get off in the port a taxi to town centre is 4 to 500 Lek. Or turn right out of port walk and you will see about 40 yards on your right a long flight of steps at the bottom you will walk straight on keeping the sea on your right keep walking its a 10 mins nice short walk and you will eventually come to another flight of stone steps about 80 of them on your left easy to walk up with restaurants either side at the top you will see a bus stop that bus stop is just to your left that bus is to Butrint its 100 lek fare they run about every 30 mins and its about 20 mins to Butrint terminus and drops you off at the front of the Butrint site TAKE WATER and a CAP 80yards from terminus you will see a Hotel Toilets Food Beer Etc and very nice. Or ask a taxi how much, normally they will take you and wait for you same with Blue Eye just come to an agreement on the fare. DO NOT give any money to Gypsy kids or you will be pestered from then on by others. If hungry and want a beer 200Lek for a large draught or a nice cheap meal good varied menu with a very clean toilet go to top of steps you came up for the bus look down and 15 foot on left is Leos OR go to bottom of steps cross road and to Left is Limani good food and Beer next to sea but a bit dear. 2 Supermarkets just get off bus and walk up road with park on right you will come to Conads supermarket for Drinks andCigarettes to take back you are allowed only 1 litre of Gin Vodka Brandy Etc each and only 2 packs of cigarettes or 40cigs each NO MORE the Greeks do not have a sense of humour in customs. You will be save here no problems at allHonest you will be shocked when you compare cost off cigs beer and restaurant food in Saranda compared to Corfu believe me. Nearly everyone takes Euro but ask 1st. Sorry no commas Etc. its my wife who is English teacher hope this helpsyou enjoy yourday.
Thanks for this explanation. We travelled through Ksamil earlier this month and thought that the buildings had collapsed due to bad footings, or an earthquake. We were on a coach from Sarandë to Butrint and the guide on the bus was expounding the wonders of democracy in Albania, and mentioned nothing of the obvious wonky buildings.
Hi ,
my husband and I are planning a day trip in Albania this coming June 2018,
Would it be best to book in advance but I cannot find a website that says we will be using the hydrofoil so it would be quicker and we also want to go to Butrint and visit the Blue eye cave. Basically,Saranda,Butrint National park and Blue eye cave as day trip from Corfu(with pick up and drop off from hotel)if possible.
Which tour operators are best to use and website please?
As I don't know how to go about from Saranda to Butrint National park,would it be best to to a package day tour for this.Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Best Regards,
Be careful on Package Tours the Greeks will charge you 10 Euros each person Saranda port entry tax and give you just a cloakroom tkicket with a number on for a receipt. This 10 Euro port entry tax stopped over 7 years ago its a CON We live in Saranda ask em why the Dolphin doesnt charge it and why you cant pay it when you land, wil they come back with a load of waffle honest.
As a result of stumbling across your wonderful blog site, we are taking the boat from Corfu to Saranda this week to go to Boutrin.
Can you tell us if there is any significant social realism art in Saranda? We will visit the martyrs' cemetery in hopes.
Thank you, Michael. Very interesting.
Thank you for this article. It is "true to life", which in this case means that it is true to the real event that has happened in Edinburgh. I enjoyed looking at the pictures, learning about the artists and bits of life mosaic reflected in it.
Good "true to life" painting is always a little window to the time and place depicted by the artist. It provokes thoughts and emotions, it calls to learn more about the times and peoples that are in the pictures.
To enjoy text we have to know its language. To enjoy figurative "true to life" art we don't have to know anything. It is universal. It moves us to learn about who, and what, how and why is there. "True to life" as a style is different from Social Realism.
Social realism is charging us with ideas of socialism the same as church art is charging us with ideas of christianity. It would be true to life to say that it is still possible to love these kinds of art not sharing the ideas expressed by them. At least it is how I feel about it. There is so much that they say about real people, their eternal struggle, inspiration, motivation…
You guys have no idea how a communist system works. Check all those countries/empires took the idea of Marx and Lenin and see how they end up. Human history could have save millions of life without communism. Arguing? Have a year in North-Korea and you change your mind…
Here is my 'take' on the exhibition: https://londonadam.travellerspoint.com/53/ . Thanks again, Michael
Have visited this exhibition – it is small but superbly fascinating, and well-curated.
Looks fascinating. Will visit. Thanks for posting this.
Hello Michael.
I have film of a large memorial, appears to be carved from stone, in shape of a 5 pointed star, with '1944' above a group of soldiers. Alongside are the words 'lavdi brigades pare heroika sul. huesi'. I thinki it is on the road between Korce and Tirana, perhaps near Elbasan. Any ideas? -
I was in Albania in 1980 and recorded my trip (with Regent Holidays) on std 8 cine film. Only now have I had it copied to digital and I am at this moment editing it in moviemaker, with captions, and hopefully some Albanian music later. I filmed this memorial but I was not sure where it was, so I am grateful to you for putting this online. I am now able to say that it was definitely near Korce (where we visited a carpet factory, stayed at the Hotel Floria, visited a very beautiful building, the Museum of the Middle Ages, and where my diary tells me that we saw local people still wearing traditional Albanian costume.)
I will add the youtube reference to my (admittedly deteriorated film – and poor quality filming) when I have completed the editing in the next week or so. -
Michael, I always appreciate your analysis of communist statuary and imagery in general, but I take issue with your assumption that the presence of large amounts of text proves a high level of literacy. Of course this is not capable of definite proof either way, and it is quite possible that the authorities also assumed that their words would be read and understood by all. But it is equally possible that the slabs of text included were self-aggrandising ("see how well we have succeeded in educating the proletariat") or even self-justifying ("we know this to be eternally true and set in stone, and that is all that is necessary for posterity; we are not bothered whether you can or cannot read it").
Faith in the benevolence and wisdom of authority is one of the main reasons why people have ultimately rejected communism – that and the undeniable material comforts capitalism confers on those in a position to benefit from it. The fact that a certain sort of ordinary person can also successfully jump on the capitalist bandwagon ensures that, sooner or later, successor regimes to Stalin or Mao will eventually prevail.
Very interesting article. Thank you, Michael.
I visited the chapel last year 2017 with my wife , we picked up a gentleman after telephoning the number on the information board on the church, who showed us around, fasinating church & history, he told us this year ,it will be celebrating its 400 year anniversary. Will you be doing anything to celebrate this event, if so could you contact me on 01704 879396, or by e,mail please. Thank you. Mr p & k Cuffe.
Excellent guide to a potentially confusing system.
It's truly a nice and useful piece of info.
I'm glad that you shared this useful information with us.
Please stay us informed like this. Thank you for sharing. -
Overstated, comrade. You allow 'savage indignation' to trump nuanced historical assessment. This would be acceptable in a satirical piece, but here you present these arguments as history. Sorry, but for many of your readers, it is mere agitprop, which grows increasingly comical as it proceeds. If only Iannucci had realised the humour inherent in blinkered fundamentalism his lamentable 'Death of Stalin' film would have been far better.
The statue in Gjirokastra has now been cleaned up. It now looks rather too white. Unfortunately, immediately behind it is a collection of café umbrellas so it loses much of its impact. Happy to send a photo taken last month.
Hi, I am interesting in the magazine Albania Today November/December 1972. I was a pioneer at that time and 4 others and I, we were in the cover picture there standing by a canon to the old national museum. If you can find it I will greatly appreciate, and I will buy that.
Hi Michael,
your post is very helpful, thank you! 🙂 Next week we will go from Paleokastritsa to Tirana. The first bus departure from Paleokastritsa to Corfu at 7.20 and the ferry departure at 9:00. What do you think we able to catch the ferry or we start to think another solutions? I read on the ferry company page the ferry boarding closes 30 minutes to scheduled departure…
Best regards, Viktoria -
Hi there, thanks for the great info! I will be traveling to Albania from Corfu on September 23rd, but my flight doesn't land until 16:50. I am planning on checking one bag, what do you think that chances of me catching the 18:30 ferry? I am hoping the airport might be less busy as high season dies down but I have no idea. Any suggestions? Thanks!
In 2012 I discovered that the big Lenin statue was standing in the former state foundry somewhere near the Lana river: https://albanianpyramids.wordpress.com/2012/02/13/the-foundry/
Correction: Lenin = Stalin
Hi Michael ……. your information is really helpful. I am hoping to get ferry service schedule information for Saranda to Corfu in December for a walk on – no car. Does a ferry depart Saranda for Corfu daily in December of 2017 or just certain days?
Thank you, Michael! We can say that Egels came back to his historical motherland from the place where he was worshiped as a new god and then went in exile when the masses found a different g-d to worship. I am glad for him and for the work of art and for the artist, whose impressive creation found a place, which he probably did not see even in his dreams. One more life's twists.
Great write-up. Greetings from Adam
Do you know of any small/interesting vineyards in the Durres Kruja area. My wife Will be on a cruise and stopping in Durres in early September and are planning on getting a car with a driver for the day and having a look around. We grow grapes ourselves in NZ so are interested in the wine culture here.
Paul Ferguson
Gone from sight, currently shrouded.
Thank you so much for your detailed directions to the Jewish cemetery in Segovia. They were invaluable in helping us find the location…not exactly a straightforward route to figure out on our own. We were going to turn back three times times before we stumbled on your blog post giving clear instructions on how to find the cemetery. It was definitely worth the extra climbing to see the site! Your description of the Jews leaving and looking back on the city as they passed through the cemetery one last time were quite a powerful image.
Googling "communist franciscan" hoping in my boredom to find another communist franciscan what do I find but your excellent, informative and utterly unexpected post! Wow! Thanks for that – easily the weirdest church paintings I've ever come across. Nice link too (Reasons to be suspicious – Albanian-British Relationships in the 1940s). Gonna take a look at some of your other posts now.
PS I realise that this post is five years old: how've things been in the meantime? 🙂
What an ignorant view to have. The young are leaving the country because of the severe lack of jobs, lack of economical globalisation and ridiculously corrupt government. No woman chooses to become a prostitute out of luxury, but out of necessity. And the reason the principle export is arms is because Albania was armed to the teeth by Russia and China during the Communist era for fear of being invaded – when you are the seventh poorest country in Europe, you will sell what you can. Albania is home to countless priceless Byzantine artefacts, Illyrian strongholds, Venetian architecture – unfortunately, with a GDP of 11 billion, as much as they would love to preserve this beautiful history, it isn't exactly a priority. Not many willingly choose to leave the country they love and belong to, but making money in, "capitalist heavens" so that they can send it home to their starving families is a priority.
And with all due respect, the resilience, hospitality, loyalty and integrity of the Albanian people (despite their severely corrupt leaders, constant invasions and their status as a peripheral) far outweighs most societies I've experienced. But you continue with your analysis of a mosaic from your ivory tower.-
With all respect to your very emotional comment and to the country where I have my best friends, I don't see a connection between the analyze of symbolism and artistic merits of the mosaic Albanians and the fact that young Albanians give up on finding a way to work in their own country. You can not blame the mosaic on supporting the corrupt government. You might use this mosaic as a symbol of Albanians struggling for their country through the whole its history. Those, who dream to have not corrupt government and work for young people to stay in their wonderful country, have to leave their ivory towers and understand that they have to struggle for their dream. Every country the young people go from Albania has a long history of struggle for better life and against their corrupt governments…
Hi, is it possible to arrange a visit preferably round noon on a Tuesday or Thursday for a small group of walkers? Thankyou
As I was reading, I was thinking to comment that the relations with China had already started to get colder, I mean publicly, since the visit of Nixon in China, although maybe not in English publications. But you mentioned it in the second half of the text.
Also in several artistic movies the end of this relationship is featured as a long agony, rather than an immediate or unexpected death, with Chinese supplying defective machinery for several years before the end of this relationship.
I've seen the guy in the following facebook link to post frequently about the history of Vlora, often about its sport history. He may know, or find out, who is the author of those art works.
https://www.facebook.com/perlindja.shqiperise?fref=nf&pnref=story -
Thanks Mike.
Happy travelling.
Colleen -
Hello- I'm traveling from Corfu to Saranda on 24 May. Unfortunately our flight doesn't arrive until 10:00 AM so we miss the morning ferry. While I saw there is an 18:30 ferry departure, I was wondering if there are any other options like a water taxi that could get us to Saranda earlier? Thanks for the help.
I am an Albanian who moved in UK in the late '90's. I have met 2 types of people:
Type 1- those who have heard about Albania and Albanians mainly from newspapers ('written in a hurry' to quote a witty British stand-up comedian), TV programmes/movies (depicting Albanians as the villains of the world/pimps/drug dealers etc, etc) and anecdotal evidence from the above 'reliable sources' . Type 2 – people who have visited Albania like Michael Harrison (i am assuming this is a real person and judging by the web domain and comments, based in UK). I am old enough to have lived the 'Communist era' and also compare and contrast with a capitalism. Paranoid? Well, Michael presents some compelling evidence pro-paranoia. Villains of the world? Would you be surprised if i told you that the worst crime i ever heard of before the 90's was someone hitting another with a bottle in a fight? The few 'villains' learned from the best and became better than the master – perhaps for the wrong reasons. Are all British 'hooligans', all Italians 'Mafia' or all French 'frogs' (don't answer the last one!)? But thank you, Michael Harrison, for summing up Albania; to quote UK Foreign Office: 'Albanians are very hospitable'. -
I have read that the so called 'Port Tax' entering Albania is a scam and was obliterated 6 years ago.
What are people's experience of this please?
Thank you -
Congratulations on (yet again) bringing to our attention a work of art many of us would not have known. However, I have some reservations. While I agree with your main points (the standard behaviour of imperialists, the relative mediocrity of the statue), I feel you allow yourself to be sidetracked into routine anti-capitalist fulminations which detract from the thrust of your analysis. I suggest there is little need to attempt conversion of the bourgeois/metropolitan/Western imperialist strand of your readership, simply because I doubt they exist in significant numbers. However, judicious criticism of works of art is an important part of what you do on this website. Here I feel it is diluted, which is a pity.
Dear Michael,
I was the British Defence Attache based in Tirana between 2005-2008. Certainly while I was there Remembrance Services were annually held at the Memorial Park with good international attendance and representation from the senior most figures in Albania.
Unfortunately, in my opinion, a decision was made to greatly reduce the number of attaches worldwide and in the case of Albania after I left representation was made from the attache based in Italy. I will say no more. I am now out of touch but heard a rumour that this decision might have been changed from last year.
I continue to have a deep love and fascination for Albania. I have heard many comments about the rights and wrongs about what happened in Albania during WW2, from all sides, some expressed to me with great emotion and passion. The truth is that the complexities of the actions, from all sides, who did what and who didn't, for what reasons, with short or long term objectives, are considerable and quite typically much easier for us to criticise in the comfort of our armchairs 70 years later. What is certainly true however is that, at an individual level, immense bravery and determination was shown by some, Albanians and British (and others), and I am full of admiration for them, if only we can strip away the politics. -
We'll arrive Corfu at 04 am, and takes the ferry to Saranda at 09am. Is it smart to wait at the airport some hours or take a taxi to the harbour at 04 o'clock? I think we must be at the ferry 1 hour before, at 08 am? So we have 4 hours to wait somewhere…. What is your sugestion?
This is in late july, in the high season.. I will order tickets for the ferry, but I can't buy before 3 months before we are leaving.. -
Another excellent presentation complete with great interpretations of the artworks. Thank you.
Comrade Michael,
Do you have the following books:
1. The Ideas of Marxism-Leninism Will Triumph on Revisionism
English Edition, Tirana, 1962, pp 226.2. Oppose Modern Revisionism and Uphold Marxism-Leninism and the Unity of the International Communist Movement
English Edition, pp.420
Published by- "Naim Frasheri" State Publishing Enterprise, Tirana, 19643. The Belgrade Revisionist Clique — Renegades from Marxism – Leninism and Agents of Imperialism
English Edition, pp.325
Published by- "Naim Frasheri" State Publishing Enterprise, Tirana, 1964
(The books contain thirteen articles originally published in Zeri i Popullit between Jan., 1962 and Sept., 1963. Articles are on the Belgrade Revisionist crusade against Marxism-Leninism and Tito's policies and the many plots he hatched with Khrushchev).4. The Dangerous Maneuvers of N. Khrushchev's Group on the So-Called Fight Against the "Cult of the Individual" Should Be Stripped Bare of Their Mask.
English Edition, pp.123
Published by- "Naim Frasheri" State Publishing Enterprise, Tirana, 1964.
( This books contains three articles reproduced from 1964 June 12, 13, 14 issues of Zeri-i-popullit Daily).Please reply,
Manabhanjan -
We travelling from Corfu to Albania by car.
My question is: can we take the car on the ferry?
Thank you -
Oh dear; another left-wing rant.
"the so-called 'Corfu Incident')."? There was no 'so-called' about it. 44 Royal Navy men died – in peacetime – as a direct result of a minefield that had just been laid by the Albanians in international waters.
And not just in 1946. I was skippering a delivery of a yacht from Yugoslavia to Greece in 1976, and we had to cross right over to the Italian side of the Adriatic at Bari, to avoid the Albanian-laid and maintained minefields extending half way across from the port of Dürres.
So: let's have a bit less of the "peace-loving Albanians", and let's remember the 750,000 pillboxes built on Enver Hoxha's instructions, whilst he kept the entire population in impoverished slavery for over 40 years.
"Buried in a municipal graveyard" ? Too good for him; it should have been the rubbish dump; and for his even more vicious wife, Naxjimje.
First i have to remind You that by thinking in terms like "German Guilt" You enter the realm of Nazi thinking. There is nothing like "guilty peoples" as the Nazis believed because guilt is individual and Germans behaved quite differently during Nazi rule. Some time ago there was a documentary about Jews in Germany during WW2.
A Jewish woman who then was on the run told she was desperate because she had no place for hiding anymore. She asked an unknown woman on the street whether she could help her. The woman gave her the key to her flat. So she survived. If she wouldn't have been asked by the Jewish woman she would have remained an ordinary German later accused of not having helped Jews (like You do).Are You really sure what You would have done?
Not "the Germans" murdered the Jews but the dictatorship that came into being 1933. And the governments of some of the nations most critical against "the Germans" weren't innocent in regard of this.
My grand father complained about the new government a short time after Hitler was appointed chancellor. Being red and living in a mostly red district in a German industrial town didn't help him. He was denunciated by one of the few Nazis there and was interned in one of the new concentration camps as ca. 100000 others. He lost 30 kg because of bad treatment but luckily was released 4 months later. Hitler had to do a coup d'etat to install a dictatorship because he failed to get a majority of votes (last free elections Nov. 1932 NSDAP 33,1%). The left parties never dropped under 40%. Because of the strong results of the Communists the Conservatives and big business panicked and Hitler's defeat made him chancellor. The behavior of our enemies was an important factor in the destruction of democracy. They violated the agreed 14 points by dictating the Versailles Treaty. Instead of reparations as defined (compensation of private losses) they demanded compensation of all war costs. Because of that the German governments couldn't do anything against the great depression unlike the US under Roosevelt. Germany had to pay or to be austere until death. That changed with Hitler. The war enemies obviously didn't want to cooperate with Democrats instead they preferred Nazis. After war they treated the German civilian population and the German POWs ill by denying them enough food. Instead they destroyed the economic infrastructure. Their propaganda accused all Germans to have known of the Holocaust and to have supported the Nazis. These insane accusations and the bad role model of the Allies themselves proved to be very good for Nazis. Guilty people were helped by criminalizing not guilty people. Strangely the Allies preferred Nazis for most posts. No wonder it wasn't possible to talk about Nazi crimes for a long time (including the Anti-Nazis who were thrown into the same bag as the Nazis only because they were Germans as my father told me). Great thing for the Nazis! They really had to thank the Allies.
My opinion of some peoples will forever be negative because of the role their governments had in the destruction of German democracy and the rise to power of the Nazis (and the hardships my grand father had to endure in KZ), their vile post war defamations against people who hadn't done anything wrong, they behaving like Nazis by starving the population (my mother nearly perished) and ill treatment of POWs (Manfred my father's brother survived live in a US camp near Liege in Belgium but many died every night. Every morning he had to put dead bodies into bags).
Sorry, but You are part of that because of Your arrogant and ignorant statements.
Unfortunately history has been slanted once again. These 5 'heroes' may well have been fighting against fascism but at the same time they were fighting for communism which turned out to be far worse for the country, just as the nationalists had predicted. Too bad history in Albania is always on the side of communism rather than praising the efforts of those who gave their life fighting to preserve a free Albania and rid it of the monster who ultimately ruled it with a vengeance for 50 years! Statues of the real heroes are never created. The truth of the fighters who fought and died in their fight against communism is never told!
none of the links work ….
I take it that you are not a royalist then, Michael?
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Cloud you post the articule: "The Marxist-Leninist Parties – the leading force of the revolutionary movement today – Agim Popa"?
Its look basic for reorganization of M-L movement…
Dear Mr. Harrison,
We are publishing the almanac about ecumenical orthodoxy (http://lodka.sreda.org). Can we, please, use your photo of Tirana church dome in our printnig and web edition and on what conditions? -
Great reply. Thanks!
Another wonderful posting. Thanks!
You wrote: "In many ways they capture a feeling of optimism and hope for the future which other art forms just can't achieve". So very true. I wonder whether they really achieved this aim. Has anyone written anything about the perception of this kind of art by the 'common people' during the Socialist era?
Yoy wrote: " I also don't really understand why the myth around Skenderbreu was perpetuated as much as it was during the Socialist period.".
This also puzzles me somewhat. My simplistic feeling is that because Skanderbeg defied outside forces hostile to the Albanian people, he was appealed to Party ideology, which during the Hoxha era wanted to portray Albania as being defiantly against outside interference.
Skanderbeg like Hoxha defied forces far superior to those of the Albanians.
There is a monument in Peqin with a constellation of small red stars above it.
Fascinating. Thanks! Have you ever published an 'analysis' of the murals in the Hotel Cajupi in Gjirokastër?
Hi! Congratulations for your work…
We are a marxism-leninist blog of Spain, we call us "Bitácora Marxista-Leninista" or "Bitácora (M-L)".
We are translated some editions of Albania Today from here, thanks to you.
We want to know the next information:
1) How can we know the next numbers that you will bring?
2) We are interested in translate some articles, for example:
'Mao Tse-tung thought' – an anti-Marxist, counter-revolutionary theory – Servet Pëllumbi
The Marxist-Leninist Parties – the leading force of the revolutionary movement today – Agim Popa
The Chinese Social-imperialists – supporting the reactionary and Fascist regimes – Zeri i Popullit
In China there is no Communist Party, but Clans and Factions Struggling with each other for Power – Zëri i Popullit
Victory of the Nicaraguan people in their struggle for freedom and independence – Zeri i Popullit
Thank you for this information. I note that Qybra Sokoli is featured on an Albanian stamp of 1983, in a series issued each year between 1979 and 1986, depicting a total more than seventy martyrs and partisans.
Dear Mr. Harrison. I enjoy this blog very, very much. Thank you for your time and effort to enthuse us with your tales.
I wanted to know if you would give me permission to use the photo of Mao addressing the Chinese people on the 1st October, 1949, for my own blog -website
I am currently in China and a filmmaker, however, it is not easy to get the permission and entails going to the central archives in Beijing.
I would give full credit to you for this usage…With thanks…
I was in Tirana this week and had à Nice chat with the security guard in front of hotel Dajti…
Was able to take Nice shots of Stalin and Lenin…still Thére ! -
Thank you for all of the great information about Albania. I am wondering if you have any information about the history or Plazhi Gjeneralit?
Thank you
You say, "On a banner is the famous phrase from Karl Marx – 'religion is the opium of the people'." That's a misquote. It should be "opiate", meaning anything which acts to subdue or suppress action, create passivity, etc. Also, I think it's important to point out that all the people in the foreground are among "the faithful". The unbelievers are all facing the other way, toward the works of man/ buildings in the background. I'm interested in the very traditional dress of the older people. The old woman appears to be wearing Turkish-style trousers and yet there is something in her hand that may be a rosary – impossible to see due to poor picture quality. I lived among Albanians in Skopje, Macedonia years ago and saw many men dressed like those with the hairy waistcoats, white skull caps and striped trousers. Some Albanians are Catholics, some are Muslim. One aspect of culture your articles does not mention are the blood feuds or vendettas that rage between families for centuries.
Please let me know who I may contact to arrange a visit to The Ancient Chapel of Toxteth in late September early October 2016. Thanks.
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Les américains sont des porcs qui ne savent que semer la mort et le désastre partout où ils passent. Ce sont eux qui ont encore mis le monde à feu et à sang avec leurs interventions en afghanistan,irak,libye…Il est normal qu'ils paient leurs crimes avec leur propre sang.
Tout comme la France en Algérie.
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Thank you for helping uncover the mystery! Yes, this seems very prominent in the south. In Himare, where half the buildings are stalled-out and now abandoned half building constructions we saw so many stuffed animals hanging. I especially love the ones – many around Sarande- where the doll hangs from within the grape vines. These two things have now become the major symbols of Albania for me. Working title for my Broadway musical: Grapes and Dolls.
I very much enjoyed your careful analysis. I'd like to add, that it is misleading to think of Albanians as a single ethnicity, or mono culture. The people that fought against invaders and built Albania after WW2 are different from those that destroyed it after the 90. It's not the same people that "changed their mind".
This is an election map:
https://www.electoralgeography.com/new/en/wp-content/gallery/albania2013/PARTI%20EN%20TETE%202013.jpgAs you can see, it more of less corresponds with division Tosk / Gheg
https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/d1/Albanian_dialects.svg/2000px-Albanian_dialects.svg.pngThe difference is not merely ideological and linguistic, genetic tests show that they are two completely unrelated people:
http://blogs.discovermagazine.com/gnxp/files/2011/05/sobpc.jpgThe Ghegs are actually descendants of slaves brought from north-east Africa in antiquity and they gave Albania in these quarter century the typical history of a nation of ex-slaves: plunder and destruction, criminality, high corruption.
http://cdn.eupedia.com/images/content/Haplogroup-E1b1b.jpgSo, even in rapport with women, it's not meaningful to speak about "Albanian women". Which one? The ones that had the right to vote decades before (1920) those in Italy (1945) or those in Greece (1952)?
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Timeline_of_women%27s_suffrageOr those that were married covered as in Africa in the 60′?
http://www.forumishqiptar.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=5972&stc=1&d=1036435522 -
Thank you….
2014 date….anything for this year ? 2016 ?
Joyce Eastwood
Liverpool L18 8AR -
Hi this is a great article we are going to Segovia in September do you know a guide who can take us around your Jewish tour.
Thanks -
Dear Michael Harrison
In course of rather belatedly writing up my notes of a visit to Northern Italy in 2014 I have been trying to identify a painting of The Last Supper which I saw in Santa Maria Maggiore. I was struck by its composition. It had an angled aspect from below rather than front on or from above. The dominant feature was a white tablecloth with angled folds. The left hand lower part of the picture had a child dispensing water (?) into flagons. The right hand lower frame depicted an animal waiting for discarded bones. Does this description jog your memory perhaps?
Thank you for what you wrote about your visit to that city. As always there are regrets about what one has failed to notice or not had time to visit, and I enjoyed your unique insights into this most fascinating part of the world. -
I need to get on to a customs officials at Trinidad airport can some one help me it's important
I really like this post. Highly recommend to everyone. Thank you.
Traghetti saranda -
Is there ever any need to book the Corfu-Saranda ferry in advance (for foot passengers)? Hoping to just turn up and buy the ticket on the day, and wouldn't want to find all tickets sold out!
Many thanks. -
Do you think it's necessary to book the ferry ticket in advance (before flying over there) during high season or is it fine to just show up the same day / day before?
I'm currently traveling around Albania, and happened across your article when, believe it or not, I was googling courgettes and evil eye.
I've seen dolls, and ram horns, but there was one item which I was unable to identify which was grey, curved, and about 2 feet long hanging from a construction site bill board in Berat. One of the work men indicated it was a courgette, and I'm not convinced he wasn't just making fun of the foreigner.
Interesting article too.Thanks
Did you get a photo of the baptismal font itself? Would love to see it.
Once in Bergamo, do not forget to visit Lake Endine, only 18 km away.
A little hidden gem just outside Bergamo.
To sleep at Lake Endine: B&B MarcoLaura . We have been there a couple of weeks ago. Fantastic! -
Hi Michael,
I will be coming to Albania via Corfu in August, but my flight arrival at 12:20 probably means I will have to wait until 18:30 for the ferry to Saranda. I'm hoping to get to Himara that evening, but will have missed all buses. Will taxis at the port take me this far?
Tony -
Minibus timetable:
http://www.matinic.us/albania/furgon.php -
The official website for ferry and boat
http://www.komanilakeferry.com http://www.komanilake-explore.com
Thank you -
Hello, is it easy (and safe) to rent a car in Albania? Also, I would like to know if the there is highway just parallel to the coast as Croatia?
Then, any interesting beach in Albania?
Thanks a lot -
As always interesting and passionate, Michael! The ideas expressed using the art forms created by talented artists are very attractive and moving. The fact that these art forms are abandoned and vandalized is a direct evidence that the gap between what was said and what was actually done by the ruling party was intolerable.
The "war" agains the symbols of the communist past is actually a war against the Pharisees, which communists turned out to be. The gap between words and actions of the political powers always creates disappointment, disbelieve and anger. The new power has come. It also needed art to support it. The first and easy action to use art in its support was to erase the symbols of the previous discredited power as a promise to erase from real life all that the previous power did wrong. To my mind the war with the past in this way destroys the respect to the real heroes of the past, who are the simple people, as they are shown on all the monuments, doing their best to have a better life for their children in the future. Yet, all the monuments of the communist origin that you have been describing, are still there, in their places. They have not been distracted, they still can be cleaned and repaired. It all depends on how the thinking people of Albania will choose to deal with Albania's resent past.
I can't seem to find the address of Finikas Lines Company's office in Corfu.
Can you tell me where you found it ? Thank you! -
Hi – I am looking at travelling to Corfu via Greece – I will be in Athens and would like to travel north by land a bit then ferry to Corfu and from there to Albania – any idea where I can get a ferry to do this
Hello Michael,
thanks for your answer. Do you have adresses of hostels in Kerkyra?
Kind regards
Hi Michael
Can you take dogs on the ferry?
Hello Michel,
We ´ve got a flight from KERKYRA, GR (IOANNIS KAPODISTRIAS) at 10:40 on a Tuesday in July. Do you think we arrive on time there, when leaving from Saranda on that day (9 o´clock am)?
Kind regards
Ulisses -
Michael, this is superbly written review! I'm in the process of strongly recommending it to many other people.
I recommend Harvey's Guesthouse in Saranda.
Hi wonder if you could advise me, I'm flying to Corfu 29/07/16 and arrive 2am 30/07/16, I'm thinking of staying in airport to daybreak then getting ferry to Sarande and staying 3 nights, I hope to stay in Ohrid for 3 nights ( 7/08 to 9/08 ) so I have 5 days travel, where would you recommend, many thanks Carl
Very interesting, Michael. Your investigation sounds like a detective story. Sometime all the photos and materials you have collected will be used by Albanians to research their own art of Communist time. It wasn't any better, or worth than any other art. Realistic art is never quite realistic, it is always charged to express particular ideas. As long as it is art, it has to be preserved. I believe this is what you are doing as much as you can.
Thank you for these interesting informations.
I have a question about the second theory : it is difficult to imagine an importation from Greece because I never saw any dordolec in Greece. In which places in Greece did you see some of them ?
Best regards,
Catherine. -
Hoxha was amazing
Thank you. Very clear and thorough, and not information it'd be at all easy for a non-Albanian to find anywhere else.
I wonder whether the cleaning-up of these monuments has something to do with the Socialist victory in the elections a year or two ago. When I was last there Sali Berisha was still in power.
Near the end, you seem to suggest that the Catholic Church was responsible for the huge cross on the mountain. ("It seems that the Catholic Church is still at it in Albania.") In Korce I'd have thought the Orthodox church was a more likely culprit.
Hi Michael,
I am planning on flying to Corfu this August from the US with a layover in London. The flight arrives at 16:45 and I am only bringing carry on luggage. Do you think I will have enough time to make it through customs/immigration and catch the 18:30 ferry to Sarande?
Anja -
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This is a great collection of PDFs, thank you for hosting it. Gilmore's pamphlet on the Congress is particularly difficult to find today sadly. Readers might be interested to know that another recollection of the Congress, by Patrick Byrne, is easily available online and also worth reading.
You may be interested to know that I recently scanned this: https://archive.org/details/ATangledWeb
Actually, close to the end of the interview, he does talk about the work in the Varreza in Fier (although some of his details conflicts since he says the sculpture was complete in 1973, I believe, whereas elsewhere, like you seem to have, I've seen the completion date as 72). He says he worked for a year and half on the project, with Qiraku [?] Dono, and that the varreza were created with according to a special order from the central government–apparently they wanted them completed in a hurry. He also says they were the ninth such project (I'm assuming he means a figural centerpiece in a martyrs' cemetery) realized at the time. This is facinating to me; I've never heard anyone talk about what order their work came in, and of course he could be off about that number, but it still gives some idea of the early stage things were still at in the beginning of the 70s decade with memorialization…Finally, he says that he sent photos of the completed sculptural centerpiece to the central committee in Tirana for approval (since there was no commission approval group in Fier), and it was very well received and–he says–the photos were reproduced and put up around the Ministry of Culture and so forth in Tirana
Here's a link to an interview with Gjergji Toska, sone recently (in 2012) (in Albanian)–I don't think he says much of interest in the interview; the interviewer asks him much more about his time spent in America. He does however, talk about how important it is/was to him as a sculptor to be from the region of Myzeqeja, and how his work sought to emphasize those aspects and motifs he felt to be typical of the region. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ntfDx_WcoAU
I too was fed up of seeing different wars piggy-backed onto Armistice Day – a day I could never support from its origin in a land grabbing war of no interest to our class. I had arguments with people who cited the second world war as a reason why we should support our armed forces and buy a poppy. The second world war, with its anti fascist nature, provided the means to attempt to morally legitimise 'the poppy' and fudge over its origins. Latterly, involvement in wars in the Middle East has made some people think again about support for Armistice Day. Thank you for filling in the gaps on the 'timeline' since 'The Great War' ended; and for drawing attention to the almost ceaseless wars waged by Britain with such a cost in lives lost to our own class.
The whole issue about what Armistice Day means for our class should be more poignant for the horrific loss of life in Paris, as the consequences of Imperialist wars get close to home. In condemning the act of terrorism in Paris we will doubtless be encouraged to rally round the flag, there will be more obfuscation of acts of terrorism conducted by Britain that you aptly described. If we rightfully condemn terrorism it must mean all terrorism. We cannot cherry pick which acts of terrorism we condemn and which we ignore. Is not a drone strike itself an act of terror? Dress it up as a tool to help in the 'war against terror' and its true nature, terrorising the civilian population underneath is clouded. They may be "smarter" weapons than a world war two 'doodle bug' but their purpose is the same.
The Celebration of Armistice Day is like any other historical record – it is spun to reflect the interests of the ruling class. Thanks again for removing the spin and reminding us just how much our class suffers in the many conflicts it is called upon to fight; that's what a poppy really symbolises, who would still wear one?
Armistice Day is a day of their making. Our day is May Day!
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Hi Michael (and anyone else who needs it),
Here's a link to the pdf of Dhrami's book; as I said, if you're in Tirana, I'm sure if you drop by his studio you can get a copy!
I just checked, and the work appears in Dhrami's short book documenting his own works. It still might have been executed collectively (though there's no mention of this), but I suspect that it is i fact Dhrami's sole work.
Hi Michael,
First, thank you for writing this ongoing series on socialist monuments in Albania–it's wonderful to have a site out there to send (English-speaking) people to when they are curious about these works. I'm curious where you got the attribution to Hektor Dule from…I've always thought (and I'm still relatively certain) that the sculpture is by Muntaz Dhrami…but it's also possible the two of them worked together on it? (see, for evidence, p. 64 of Llambi Blido's essay on Dhrami, published [in the collected book of essay] 1987), available here: https://afterart.wordpress.com/2015/06/09/lirizmi-qe-merr-jete-llambi-blidos-shenime-per-pikturen-dhe-skulpturen/; also p.100 of Blut und Honig: Zukunft ist am Balkan (Essl Collection, 2004), where the work is also attributed to Dhrami.VFLP
An excellent exhibition, well laid out and plenty to see. Give yourself plenty of time for this one, at least an hour
Thanks a lot for the interesting article. I am travelling around Albania and want to read more about that scarecrow hung on the houses. Your article is very useful.
I believe Auron Tare is responsible for the maintenance of the Albanian coast line. I am quite sure that this also includes the demolition of illegal constructions.
Hello Jim Hogan
The reason that there is a flag of the USA flying at this lapidarë is that the man who owns the land on which this monument stands lives in the USA.
The road is actually quite good bit of forward planning. Sauk has very quickly become populated. When I first visited Albania in 2001 the only building the other side of the lake as the zoo. Now it is a mass of high rise buildings and houses that have progressed up the hills. Soon land on the other side of the hill will be populated and become a suburb of Tirana. Like all development, I am sure that those in the know of this road development have acted ahead and are in a position to capitalise on the expansion of Tiranë. The expansion of the city over the last ten years has been incredible but expected. Just look at Mullet today, it is no longer a separate village. This road over the hill from Sauk will soon be jammed with traffic like the rest of Tiranë.
Dear Comrades,
Thanks for putting these books on your side. It has helped the people to learn about Albania and its contributions in the International Communist Movement. There are certain important books which has never been uploaded in the internet and these books are essential to overcome about the illusionf of the so-called "GREAT DEBATE" between USSR and China. The struggle against Titoite-Khrushchevite by the Party of Labour of Albania led by Enver Hoxha was little known to the lager world. On the other hand the Chinese perspectives were well circulated and projected as an alternative to Khrushchevite revisionism.I have mentioned the the following books published in between 1961-1964 which exposes the Titoite-Khrushchevite revisionism and also provide an alternative to Chinese perspective:
1. The Ideas of MarxismLeninism Will Triumph on Revisionism
English Edition, Tirana, 1962, pp 226.2. Oppose Modern Revisionism and Uphold MarxismLeninism and the Unity of the International Communist Movement
English Edition, pp.420
Published by- "Naim Frasheri" State Publishing Enterprise, Tirana, 19643. The Belgrade Revisionist Clique — Renegades from Marxism – Leninism and Agents of Imperialism
English Edition, pp.325
Published by- "Naim Frasheri" State Publishing Enterprise, Tirana, 1964
(The books contain thirteen articles originally published in Zeri i Popullit between Jan., 1962 and Sept., 1963. Articles are on the Belgrade Revisionist crusade against Marxism-Leninism and Tito's policies and the many plots he hatched with Khrushchev).4. The Dangerous Maneuvers of N. Khrushchev's Group on the So-Called Fight Against the "Cult of the Individual" Should Be Stripped Bare of Their Mask.
English Edition, pp.123
Published by- "Naim Frasheri" State Publishing Enterprise, Tirana, 1964.
( This books contains three articles reproduced from 1964 June 12, 13, 14 issues of Zeri-i-popullit Daily).If any one has the above books, kindly upload in the internet so to expose the Chinese perspective and provide the real Marxist-Leninist position on Modern Revisionism.
Enjoy your blog. Thought you may appreciate this email link. There are still many images still to add to the website, like the one at Drashovicë. The month of August I had a month long exhibition of my Lapidar project at the National Gallery in Tirana. The opening night Dhrami turned up. Very embarrassing not to have had his famous arch in the printed collection. However, I did manage to loosely organise a meeting with him on my return to Albania. Will most certainly ask him about the the 'faded' figures on the top left arch. All the best, Robert.
Hi, Michael! Very interesting article! I have nothing to add to it, but I have some people, who will forward it. There is a Women Museum in Tirana, run by Elsa Ballauri. She will be interested in the information you collected about women in the fights.
When do you plan to came to Tirana again?
Best regards,
Did you ever discover the name of the artist of these murals? I would love to look up more of his or her work.
The author of the murals is the albanian artist Shpend Bengu
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It's quite silly how many quislings have been rehabilitated after 1991. It's even sillier because most of those who were executed are portrayed as staunch defenders of Albania's national culture, implying that the Communists were nothing more than brutish thugs recruited from the dregs of society and were also nothing other than agents of a "Slav" ideology.
Can u let me no does it open to the public and when please
You should be commended for your efforts. Socialist realism is completely denigrated in the West and I would imagine its Albanian variant would come under particularly strong criticism considering that the bourgeois and revisionist countries constantly inveighed against the "dogmatism," "fanaticism" and whatnot of the Party of Labour.
Wow, what a piece of shit distorted bit of history written here, even the Vietnamese tour guide page does better job of presenting history more accurately and unbiased. Communism sucks, always has and always will, it's a complete failure.
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I have studied the amazing Albanian response to the Holocaust of European Jewry. It is something Albanians can be so proud of because Albanians as one saved every single Jew in Albania from the Nazis in that dark period of time between 1939 and 1945 when the Germans and their collaborators murdered over 6 million Jews and nearly destroyed the world. Albania remained a lone light in a dark world and even tried to bring in more Jews in order to save lives! This was unprecedented anywhere in the world! There were other brave and special individuals the world over but nowhere other than Albania did every single family and person protect their fellow human beings because of "besa", honour. There are articles on the internet and documentaries on YouTube about this moving and wonderful act of goodness. I do hope that pupils in Albania schools learn about this.
Thanks for this. Thanks for the description of the statue in the castle too. When the time comes there'll be plenty of material for an exhibition of socialist art in Albania.
Did you see the tekke just south of Gjirokastra, with a tomb of a bektashi holy man ? (On the net, it's called the Asim Baba tekke.) And if you did, did you see the rows of what look like chicken hutches on the mountainside just to the south. I was told that Enver Hoxha had them built as houses for roma people, who he detested. I wonder whether it was true. The person who told me wasn't gloating.
A better translation for Lavdi is "Glory." Rrofte would be "long live". Also, it appears to me that the big Lavdi Shqiperise in your last photo probably used to say Lavdi Partise se Punes e Shqiperise but the "workers party" part was removed.
Totally agree! Korca is the best Albanian beer. Flowery and with a nice bitterness. Chech style, I would say.
Thank you for your interesting and thought provoking comments. With reference to where the statue was positioned at The Florrie. You are spot on with your comments. Our first thought was to place it hall in the middle of the hall, with lots of space around it so that people could do a 360 degrees and inter-act with the statue. Our second choice was to place it parallel to the windows. However, a number of user groups utilise the Grand Hall so the statue would have had to have been moved every night to accommodate them which was logistically difficult with the chance that the statue may have been damaged. We feel that overall the positioning of the statue did not detract from the visitor experience and the feedback we have received more than confirms this.
We will be in St Lucia next month. And we plan to be there for Pentecost on the 24th. Can you send us your service schedule please.
Thank you
Mark and Bonnie -
Im sorry to say ,but the way you conducted wrighting this article makes this not worth my read… and truly a comment. AS a historian try to keep emotions outside of a topic please.
Mister Harrison,thank You very much for Your answer.
Have a nice day!
With kind regards and warm greetings from Ukraine.
Tamara -
Good after noon dear mister Michael Harrison!
Thank You very much for the Blog and for interesting and usefull information You share with people.With interest and gratfulness I've read Your blog articles about Your trips to Albania from Corfu.I am planing a trip from Corfu to Albania this year and then I have a dream to travel through Albania to Montenegro.
If You have any information about how to get from Saranda to Tirana and furter to Montenegro,could You be so kind to share it.I haven't been been in Albania so far that's why I am a bit stressed about how to reach Tirana?is there any railway connection Saranda -Tirana how much does it cost to get from Saranda to Tirana etc.
Might be You have Your own experience in such trips?
I would be very grateful if You share any information concerning my questions.
WIth kind regards and warm greetings from Ukraine.
Tamara. -
Thanks for "illuminating" me on the sad story of how people deal with their own history.
William Calley and Earnest Medina were pigs then and hopefully are dead now as their leadership was nothing more than a personal war and not leaders of men…….Personal Knowledge
Yes… indeed Redi, I just wanted to say "thanks" for your effort (and for your contribution to this article) by writing this comment – what I was "wondering" myself is how is "possible" that Michael "…couldn't really see HOW that highway benefited the Albanians" – I just had to smile, of course 🙂
There used to be a collection of socialist-realist statues in a room off the main gallery in Gjirokastra castle, including a splendid one of Albania, as a young, noble, idealistic partisan, booting out monarcho-fascism (represented as a tiny, snivelling character in a military hat and greatcoat) and religion (a tiny, snivelling character carrying a book). Get out, she's obviously saying, and don't come back. I wonder if they're still there.
As always so inspiring to see what you are writing about and so beautiful and unique in a way. I love mosaic art form and this one is very unusual. Thank you, Michael. Would be good to publish on facebook a fragment of your articles and give a link to your block.
May he rest in hell. History has never seen such a disgusting leader, killing his own people, forbidding religion, blowing up churches. I hope someone blows up his tomb and erase him from history. Screw all of you crackhead supporters.
You anticommunist pig may be payed by the state and the NATO you imperialist peace of garbage. But you believing in lovely god, instead using your brain.
I think you will find that the red book symbolises both the official Party history 'History of the Party of Labour of Albania' and also the Veprat (Works) of Enver Hoxha, as much as education. You see the same book being held/read in paintings and artworks in the National Gallery and other museums. It is thus overtly political and no surprise at all that it was removed from the mosaic. In 2011 the scaffolding was for the awnings that it held, i think, rather than any restoration and indeed the Democrats proposed removing it entirely. I do not believe anything was done about it, though it is now an a very shoddy state, with bits missing.
Dear Michael Harrison,
With pleasure I have been reading your posts on Albania since you started to write them, especially those concerning socialist realist monuments, which as you may know by now, is also one of my personal interests. I saw that you asked on the punctum books website for the release date of the Lapidari book, which indeed should be in the coming days. However, I can imagine that you would like to have a look already, so I would be happy to send you the links to the online PDF versions if you send me an email.
Our research was to get an overview of all monuments from that period in Albania, and therefore our analyses have been more quantitative than qualitative, and miss the narrative detail with which you describe the monuments in your posts, to my great pleasure. Nevertheless I hope the research will be useful to your own endeavors as well.
Best regards,
Thanks so much for this great info! I am planning a day trip to Segovia from Madrid this weekend and now that I've found this I am going to take this exact walk! Really helpful!
Your directions to this amazing piece of art proved to be priceless. The locals, including taxi drivers didn't know where this was. I was gobsmacked by the lack of interest shown by Dutch people to such an important monument.
To begin with I couldn't understand why the piece sits where it does, however once you visit it becomes clear that this is the prefect place for it. -
Thank you, Michael. Interesting and simple as all your publications. I saw this monument many times and never paid attention… You are unveiling Albanian Social Realism monuments to me. Look at this sample of neoclassicism: http://wikimapia.org/18710871/Liri-Gero-Statue
It was just inaugurated and is dedicated to the same partisan that is abandoned behind the NGA, who we saw together…. -
Visiting Shok Enver's grave is on my bucket list. (For those of you for whom English isn't your native language, one's "bucket list" is slang for places one wishes to visit before s/he "kicks the bucket" (dies).
Rrofte Shoku Enver Hoxha!
The mistake that Hoxha made was that he hung-on too long. In the immediate post World War II period, a Hoxha was needed to secure Albania's sovereignty as a number of surrounding countries had their territorial aims. However, once those threats faded and the internal infrastructures were solidified, Albania seemed to have got stuck in a time warp. It missed an opportunity to engage the best the world could offer while rejecting the worst. After Hoxha, Albania did not have the institutions in place for a modern late 20th century economy which created societal disorganization. This did not have to occur if Hoxha would have transitioned power much earlier.
Transition power to who? Albania hasn't been able to give birth to a better leader yet.
I used to be subscribed to this magazine and it is fun to reread these issues once again. At that time, the magazine was about the only means for people outside Albania to get a glimpse into life there. How life and the world have changed.
Excellent analysis. You got this right. Today, China is an economic free-for-all or economic Wild West. While regulations exist, they are not enforced, or only selectively so. Nothing wrong with moving ahead with a progressive economy, but China had an opportunity to do so while preventing some of the downsides to it and failed (i.e. environmental problems, lack of business ethics, excessive gaps in wealth, lack of healthcare). I don't think Mao envisioned beggars on urban streets and blatant prostitution in the 21st century. While the CPC is making renewed attempts to combat business and Party corruption, it seems to be selectively targeted and only token public relations efforts. China seems to be a ship without a captain.
Thank you for a very interesting article. I am from the Soviet Union and the Social Realism is the art I was brought up with. I love it, and looks like there are more and more people, who appreciate it for all different reasons.
I have been "paving" my Silk Road to Albania for the last 11 years. I make the artifacts of Albania's culture into my designs for silk scarves and ties, and I tell my stories about these artifacts in the cards accompanying my Silk Gifts from Albania. It is my way of telling about the country, which I love. Here is my latest work, not yet printed, just finished and still in the process of my approvment https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10205287765419410&set=a.1735847441753.2098930.1405608748&type=1&theaterI like your site and your desire to show the facts without commenting on them.
Best regards,
Natasha -
The Ramsgate Tunnels are a 4.5 mile (7.25 km) network mainly built in 1939 for air raid protection, and are the largest network of air raid protection tunnels. It has been said that the Borough Engineer, Mr R Brimell, visited Spain prior to this but we have no documented evidence. The tunnels are similar in shape and also had toilet facilities, water cisterns and first aid points, and had a maximum capacity of 60,000 people although 12,000 to 20,000 was the usual occupancy during raids.
Due to lack of available accommodation over 364 families made the tunnels their home and lived there from several months to several years and even had their post delivered.
The tunnels form a semi-circular route passing beneath what were the most densely populated areas of the town, with fourteen entrances and eleven ventilation shafts so extended stays were not a problem. A connecting disused railway tunnel was far larger and housed the long stay residents who even brought down pianos and had regular entertainments, dances, and concerts to the extent that it became know as 'Tunnel Town'.
The tunnels were sealed and neglected until much work by a volunteer group made reopening possible on their 75th anniversary 1st June 2014. Indeed the existence and extent of the tunnels even by Ramsgate residents was not realised until their opening.
There is still a lot of work to be done such as sound and light enhancements, opening up more of the network, exhibitions and interactive displays, etc, but so far over 7,000 people have enjoyed guided tours of about one mile (1.6km) into the network, complete with mockups of the dwellings people made in creating Tunnel Town.
The Tunnels are currently open Wednesday to Sunday with four tours each day although special groups can be accommodated by arrangement.
We certainly welcome any enquiries and look forward to seeing you there in the future. -
Hey Michael,
Thank you for this article about the fashion issue of the moment. When you talk about Spain and the reasons it has for oposing "independence" in any other European state, I think it would be correct to add France, because it has the same two reasons North of the Pirinees: Basque Country and Catalonia.
And another thing: these two words at the end of the article 'reach fruition' may not be 'rich fruition' ?
Anyway, for the rest I agree completely with you.
Stay strong, no pasarán! -
Dear Michael.
Firstly i would like say a big Thank You for your blog posts about Albania. It is my first time reading your blog and it will certainly not be my last.
With respect to your question/assumption on the newly build highway Durrës-Kukës. Quote "Again a road funded by foreign money but I couldn't really see how it benefited the Albanians."
Being originally from Kukës i have kept myself informed on the developments of this project.
1- It is true that a good portion of the money used to build the highway was a LOAN not free from (hope i am not mistaken ) the World Bank which the Albanian taxpayers are paying and have been paying in, for this project since the War in Kosova was over. There was a tax which was introduced around year ~2000 by Pandeli Majko the Albanian PM of that time, and it was intended to for this project only.
2- Why was this necessary and does it benefit the Albanian People?
Before the highway was complete travelling from Kukës to Tirana/Durrës took roughly 8 Hrs, while now its just 1:30 -2 Hrs.
As you have experience it yourself even people from the North part of Albania not just the North East are using it, as it is much faster and safer.
Add to that ~ 3 million Albanians in Kosova whom travel every year to the Albanian Coast for their holiday, additionally consider the ease and cost effective transportation links from Durrës port to other regional countries eg: Serbia, Macedonia etc.
I believe that the Albanian people are very much benefiting from this highway and it has made lives better for the Albanian Geordie's :).Let me conclude this comment by an Advert for a Flat in Prizren:
Albanian : Kemi në shitje një apartement vetëm 2 Orë larg Detit.
English : Apartment for sale only 2 Hours from the Sea.Sincerely
Redi -
We are travelling to Sarande from Corfu (via Ferry) next August. Would anyone know the timetable, cost and duration of journey for the bus from Sarande to Himare.
Just in case anyone wants to stay a couple of days in Corfu before going or on return from Albania – we are outside of Corfu Town, [and therefore much cheaper] but have the Blue bus stop right outside – leaves at 7.20 am to Corfu Town and then a 15 min walk to the port for the first Albanian ferry …and runs until 22.45 from town to us ….. had a few people staying with us now that have done it…….
If interested please FB us – https://www.facebook.com/KERKYRAROOMS?ref_type=bookmark
Happy travels!! The KR team…. -
This is really a fine review/commentary about the police murder of Oscar Grant in Oakland, California, and about many of the broader questions that this whole incident raises. There are many points of interest, but just to mention a couple:
As an American I was surprised to learn that on a per capita basis the level of murders by police in the U.K. is even higher than in the U.S.! This shows clearly that this problem is not just one in the "gun-crazy U.S." but something that is worldwide in capitalist society. The ruling class everywhere agrees that the masses need to be kept in their place by the police, including by violence and death "when necessary"!
Then too, I thought the question raised "Why is it that whenever things go wrong in capitalist society the loudest cry seems to be 'compensation'?" was also very thought-provoking and on-point, when clearly the main concerns should be for punishment of the murderers and for building mass efforts to fundamentally change society so that these murderous police crimes cannot continue indefinitely!
Please let us know what kind of tour do we need to be able to visit this camp. We are
coming from Amsterdam as a tourist.thanks,
Jocelyn & Justine -
My wife and I just visited the monument at Derma in late June 2014 and it now has an Albanian flag on one side and an American flag on the other (2 flag poles). Flags are in good shape. Do you (or anyone) know why there is an American flag here? Monument also looks recently painted — I can share pictures …)
I've recently been on a day trip to Albania from Corfu (date of trip was 1 July 2014).
In Corfu, you can get a ticket in a shop nearly opposite the entrance to the New Port. The very first shop on the corner only sells excursion packages and the unhelpful woman inside first told me that they were sold out for the day. I soon realised she was talking about their excursion packages and went in another shop a few doors down that advertises hydrofoil tickets to Albania. That's where you want to be. You can only buy a Corfu to Albania ferry ticket there: you have to buy the return leg journey once you're in Sarande.
The ferry leaves from the far end of the entire New Port – a 400m walk to the left if you're looking from the port out to sea.
Once you're in Sarande (remember your passports), the ticket office to buy return tickets to Corfu is on the main street above the dock, to the left as you come out. It's the head office for the ferry company – you can pay in Lek or Euros.
If you get the 0930 ferry from Corfu, you arrive at about 0900 Albanian time (they're one hour behind Greece). The bus to Butrint leaves at 0930. Go out of the dock and head to the right towards the roundabout with a tree in the middle of it. The bus leaves from the right-hand street, if you're looking to the roundabout with the dock behind you. It's more a coach than a bus, and there's a sign in the window that says 'Sarande-Ksamil-Butrint' and the word 'Henri' in our case.
The timetable is as follows: From Sarande: 0700, 0930, 1130, 1330, 1530, 1730; and from Butrint: 0820, 1030, 1230, 1430, 1630, 1830.
It takes around 45 minutes. You get on the bus and pay during the journey. It only costs 100 lek each way, so 200 lek in total, which is next to nowt and MUCH cheaper than a taxi.
We only had the day in Albania, so we took the 0930 and arrived in Butrint at 1015. You can see Butrint quite leisurely in two hours and get the 1230 bus back to Sarande, but if you can afford more time there, another hour or two would be easily spent.
Butrint is an awe-inspiring place which you're sure to love.
Hi Michael,
Im travelling to Albania via Corfu on July 16th, I will arrive late in the evening in Corfu so I have to take the ferry the next morning. Do you have a suggestion for a (cheap) hotel close to where the ferry takes off? And is the ferry close to the airport as well? Many thanks in advance and this blog is very helpfull!
In july we are going to Albania. It costs 19 € or 23.80 € for adults, is it 23.80 € in july? Is it the same cost for children? My son is 11 and my daughter is 14.
Just back in sweden after 16 days in Corfu and Albania. We had to pay 19 Euro each and they say it is the same price all over the year if you buy in the office. Our children 14 and 16 also pay the same. They say children under 12 has a lower price but I dont know how much. email@example.com-
Thanks for reply!
Did you enjoy Albania? We are staying in Sarande for one week, do you have any recommendations or warnings?-
Hello. My kids are 4 years old and 6 years old. I got an adult ferry ticket for 19 euros. Each of my kids cost 1 euro from Corfu to Albania. Maxine
Hello, we are planing a car trip to Corfu in june is there any chances to find a ferry where we can have our car? 🙁 We driving thrue Croatien og Albanien
Google dosn't seems too so much help 🙁 -
Thank you again, Michael for all this information, but it's the first time I hear to talk about "Falangists" in Italy. I thought that only in Spain (and Lebanon) has existed a fascist political party called "Falange". Are you sure there have been "Falangists" in Italy in 1942?
No 1 (62) 1982's picture just links to… its picture, not a PDF like the other issues of _Albania Today_ you have online.
We are flying to Corfu on Monday 26th May. Our flight arrives late so we will stay overnight in Corfu. At 9am we hope to take go off to Albania. It costs 19 Euros for adults. Is it the same cost for children? My son is 7 and my daughter is 4. Thanks. Are there taxis once in the port in Albania? Many thanks.
Once again, Michael, thank you for all this interesting information about May Day.
Long Life to the Revolution!
Up with the Working Class! -
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Thank you, Michael, for telling us so many things I didn't know…
I completely agree with the reply of Michael Harrison to Mr. Rubin Mandija.
Thank you Michael for all this information about the real history of the people of Albania.
Surely Mr. Rubin is a neofascist and a living proof that Fascism is still alive and well and ready to attack, anywhere and anytime.
We must keep on alert.
Long life to the working class!
Down with Fascism!
No pasarán! -
I am planing to travel from Saranda to Korfu,will arive with car to Saranda. Any info where and how much is costing per day,
to leave car on secure parking lot ? -
Hi Michael,
An excellent article on the walk through Jewish Segovia.
Just wanted to mention that the Decree of Expulsion was signed in Granada not Segovia. It was signed after the 1492 conquest of Granada, the last bastion of Moors on the Iberian Peninsula, in the Ambassadors' room of the Alhambra Palace and is therefore sometimes known as the Alhambra Decree.
Although it gave four months to when it would apply, the effective time was less than that as it was over a month before being promulgated and becoming public.
Best regards,
Jack -
Certainly: I will take the ferry myself on April 30, departure 9 o'clock.
Costs are 19 euro + 4 euro for the bike. -
We want to go cycling in Albanie this summer, Is it possible to take cycles aon the ferry from Corfu to Saranda?
Thank you very much for all this chronicle. I agree, of course.
-Francesc (your Barcelonan friend) -
I and my partner (in our 60's) did the walk in 2009 . We however took a local with a horse to carry our backpacks. My partner has made a Presentation of the trip if you are interested I can be reach at email@example.com
When I look at this interior compare it to some of the other interiors you have written about, for example the modernist interiors, viewing this shopping structure seems to take on, seems to give me the experience you saythe usage shopping itself gives you. is a bIt **** likes poking myself in the eye to look up on this. c
There's a quite large cache of scanned Albanian works that I found: https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B1ZP6ZurgOg-bTNNWmlzaWJTaTg&tid=0B1ZP6ZurgOg-REtjWmJoeVRJUlE
dear people. this is not a memorial dedicated to nazism. the word fascism or nazism does not appear at all anywhere on it. this is a memorial to fallen soldiers. there are memorials to fallen axis soldiers in every single country in europe. this is not an Albanian exception. please do not dramatize over a memorial which is dedicated exclusively to lost souls.
Hi – planning a trip to Corfu Sept then would like to get to Kotor in Montenegro. Seems the ferry to Saranda is the best first step. Can I get a car rental in Saranda or better to look into trains or buses to head north? Thx much
Oh and I forgot to add. HIS LAST TOUR??? That was his one and only tour!!
That's if you're not a Republican supporter and are to afraid to answer and will just delete this comment!
Is this the Michael Harrison who done the article on soldiers speak out in NI ? If so I would like to have my say! I've been waiting for years to have my say. I've tried to research Barzilay with no luck. You have a article by a Marine called Moran about abuse by Marines on the 76 tour. I was on that tour and in the same troop as " Bugsy" Moran. At no time on that tour did we use snatch squads so we never ran into any crowds hitting people! No1 lie! Abuse was not rife on the streets No2 lie by Moran. He himself used to stop and search people and make them strip right Down. He tried to steal a Tricolor belonging to a Mrs Green. He had an obsession with Hitler. Am I painting a picture? The fact that someone watched him pack his bags on the night that he went AWOL when he was putting 24 hour ration packs into them and never thought that this was odd cause it was just Bugsy being Bugsy! Again am I painting a picture? This has angered me for years! Please answer me by email. Steve
We are going to Saranda from Corfu during Easter 2014 for a couple of days. The departure at 12.45 from Saranda on the way back is planned to be friday April 18 – Good Friday – would it be risky business relying on that one..?
/Michele -
Thank you for your answer, Michael. I understand it very well. It can happen everywhere: certain tourist places got crazy names…
Thanks so much for sharing this info and everyone's subsequent updates. All very useful. We trying to plan a low season trip to the Ionian Islands and Albania and finding it rather like running around with a blindfold on! Also just stumbled across the http://www.gtp.gr/ website, which is a huge help on the ferry timetable front.
Hey Michael!
How are you?
The most interesting part, for me, is this story about the stable girl. A very good deduction of yours, just in Sir Arthur Conan Doyle's style.
And all these social considerations about so long working times nowadays people is forced to…
By the way, could you explain to me why this Bay is called precisely Robin Hood's Bay?
Thank you very much and stay strong.
No pasarán! -
hi will be travelling to corfu early april 2014 and have booked 3 nights at hotel in sarande. Any ferry advice and travel tips in albania please?? worried about the weather mainly.!!!
Can i take my bicycle on the ferry? What would it cost?
What will the average temperature be in late March/early April? -
Dear Comrdaes,
It is due to Scribd policy. several of your document is not downloadable. Can you please send me the scanned document or upload them on site where it is easily downloadable. May be a word-press site.
I have a book of cde Hoxha in Hindi that i will scan in next few months and upload it.
I have decided to upload any further Albanian works scanned by myself and some others (not the creator of this website, enverhoxha.ru, etc. though) onto my archive.org account, where they are freely downloadable. See: https://archive.org/search.php?query=uploader%3A%22kocotosi%40gmail.com%22&sort=-publicdate
I don't understand why, when you mention the Somme, you say "but they were French so they don't really count".
hello dear paolo .
The information about the other boats on the lake is not our bussines , like a privat bussines we are , me and my collegues give information only about our services , but NEVER false info .
For the privat trips 30/50 euro , does it sound horrible ?? nobody ever said sth like you about it .
Professional but not completely , your try on this forum (whoever you are) , it is so obvious that you are not a tourist at all , or maybe a really BAD informed tourist , you do not know how does it work with my trips , you just said that : Avoid this guy (me) , so you did it for sure , or not ?
And at the end , me and my collegues are workin very hard to devenlope the tourism in koman , and if you say that 5 euro (a caffe in european countrys) is too much to pay for a 3 hour trip on the lake (same for both boats) take a look here journeytovalbona.com , then this try is more than failed , much more .
like a 21 years old guy i did the first advertisment for that lake (flyers and posters) , i did register the 1st bussines registered on that area , and i am the ONLY one who pays taxes to the goverment everymonth , no other owner of boat , ferry or ship does .
Time will show itself if im a lier , or a fair guy !
Anyway thanks a lot for your support .
We will soon clean our land from this scum. Albanians are left oriented culturally. We losed the control of our land after the communist regime. There are a lot of reasons for this and I can't explain all of them here. What's for sure is that, soon we will remove this symbols legally and peacefully. The last twenty years were like a bad illness for the society. People didn't become nazilovers but just indifferent. Now were getting better and soon this garbage will take the right place in history. Thank you for posting this facts.
Here's an Alia pamphlet I just scanned: http://www.scribd.com/doc/179162436/The-Revolution-A-Question-Taken-Up-for-Solution-pdf
I'm planning an early holiday in Abania in June 2014 but thought I would split my time, (3 days there and 2 days in Corfu). Can I travel on the ferry to Corfu, stay a couple of days and return to Albania, or is the ferry crossings for day trips only.
Just one old fart offering support for another, Mike.
Okay, despite what I said before you left, I do read some of the blogs some of the time.I hope you are still going strong, physically and mentally, albeit in my unhealthy state of hip you can appreciate that I am really concerned for your knees. I know you have determination in abundance, and some of your posts reflect the mental battles you have already overcome. The last week has been good weather here, and you are now out of the notorious lakes micro climate, so I hope you have left those grey days behind up there too.You must be over the most challenging bit of terrain now. Leonie and I wish you well for the remainder of the walk.
Coming back to the knees.from Leonie's bad experience with prolonged use of anti inflammatory drugs don't skimp on the food. I am sure you read the instructions but just in case you are tempted to get blaze about taking them, don't. I have read from one of your earlier posts that you were eating very little after breakfast – they need to be taken with food or you are inviting stomach problems. That said, I have always carried these drugs with me, they are good in a crisis.
Anyway Mike, its good for me to share your experiences as its unlikely I'll ever be able to do something as challenging as this. I enjoyed your photographs too.
Sorry to go on so about the drugs – it's become a topic of conversation lately between Richard and myself, comparing notes and doses – how boring, how sad.
You'll be on the home leg soon, take care and good luck.
See you for a pint in Liverpool. -
I actually own this; it came in the form of two small books and ended in 1960. There were no additional small books to my knowledge, though, they simply re-released it as one single English-language "History of the Party of Labor of Albania" in 1971 which incorporated the earlier chapters while adding the rest of the 60's to them. In 1982 a new edition (with "Labour" instead of "Labor") was released which extended the history into the 70's to cover the 7th Congress of the PLA, adoption of the new Constitution, and the Sino-Albanian split. There were no newer editions after that, in Albanian or otherwise.
I think the two small booklets were part of an abandoned project, and that they simply realized there was no need to divide the party's history into multiple small books, so they went with a more attractive one-volume hardcover work incorporating all of it (which was also what they had in Albania, the English-language history being a translation of the "Historia e Partisë së Punës së Shqipërisë") and adding a handy bound bookmark to it.
Hi Michael,
take care of your left knee…! No pasarán! -
It would be great if a former fisherman living near the shores of the Koman lake could make a living working with tourists, in this way supporting his family there. But this should be done honestly.
Sadly, I could observe that Mario Molla is not respecting tourists, but rather he gives them flase information in order to convince them to pick his boat. Over the time I was in Koman, he said that ferry service had been abolished altogether, despite the fact that ferries depart every day at 9am. This was to force people to take his private boat.
Moreover, he normally behaves in a quite impolite way with the other locals working there, since he insulted them when they quietly tried to tell tourist that, yes, ferries leave Koman every day at 9 am… in sum, he seemed a kind of a mafia boss… -
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Hello, I am involved in efforts to scan Albanian materials of the 60's-80's. You can find some of them (mixed with a few unrelated PDFs) here: http://www.scribd.com/jhamelin_2/documents
Hi – we travelled in this region last week (Aug 2013) and have updated info which you could post to help others regarding the car ferry from Sarande to Corfu:
Service operated by Finikas Lines from Sarande
Tel. +355 852 26057
Mobile: +355 692 073711 – ask for Eranda – she speaks good English
There are 2 car ferry & foot passenger sailings per day: 10:30am/4:00pm
Each ferry only takes about 4 cars so you should book several days in advance. Crossing about 1.5 hours. I can't remember the prices, but it was 140 Euro for a car + 3 adults + 1 child to travel from Igoumenitsa in Greece (around 1h 45m by car from Sarande) to Corfu on one of their large car ferries (about 350 vehicles, 5 crossings per day, no need to book in advance) and about 40-50 Euro more expensive to travel with Finikas directly from Sarande. -
Can someone inform me about ferie tickrts per persond anfor car???
thax -
Hi all!
Have used Ionian Ferry's to Corfu and back over 3 years now and I've been more than happy overall with their service.
Cheap tickets….
Friendly staff…..
Fun Journey……
2 country's within a hour…. -
My flight arrives at 12.15 pm 23rd August. Shall I have to wait till 6.30 to catch evening ferry. When I arrive in Saranda I will only have Euros with me. Will I be able to get money changed when I get there late on? I will have to get bus or taxi to hotel so I will need their currency.
We had arranged a pick up with our hotel in Sarande and recommend you to ask for the same if it is possible. It was so convenient to have somebody meeting us at the port. But anyway there is an ATM close to the port.
What's available in terms of transportation (bus, rental car, taxis?) once you land in Albania if you want to spend a few days and explore the southern coast beyond where the ferry lands? Is it possible?
I think the success of trips like these depends to a large extent on preparation. The climb out of the valley is steep, which means you need to consider the weight of your luggage. Contours of a terrain can be determined beforehand on a map. The trailhead you were looking for is indeed reached by walking though the bed of the river, which is dry in summer. A local guide + horse for the luggage can be had for 50 euro, and you will be contributing to a shepherd's household income.
I don't know where you were staying, but if you had to walk 8 kilometres to get to the trail head you were in Dunishe at best, or, judging from the fact that you had to walk along a road, maybe even in Dragobia. Knowing where you are is the basis of knowing where to go. GPS-tracks describing the trek from Valbona to Thethi can be found on the internet (if you want to, I can send you mine) and, provided you have a GPS, finding the trail would be easy.
I realise the above may sound like coming from someone who knows it all, but whenever we got into unexpected trouble, with hindsight lack of preparation has always been the cause. You will enjoy your trip more if you prepare.