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JACKSONVILLE, Fla. (AP) Jacksonville Jaguars receiver Chad Bumphis was walking through the locker room Monday when he stepped on a piece of cardboard and nearly slipped to the ground.
Bumphis reacted by saying, ''Whoa, that was close.''
Given what's happened in Jacksonville recently, no one would have been surprised to see Bumphis end up on the sideline with so many of his teammates.
The Jaguars are down seven receivers during organized team activities, playing without both starters, two second-round draft picks and a few others. The injuries forced Jacksonville to sign two receivers off the street in recent days just to have enough bodies to get through practice.
''It's tough,'' coach Gus Bradley said. ''It's a challenge because you've got the whole team to worry about. You're concerned with making sure you get reps and everybody gets a chance to progress. You don't want to tailor practice so far back that you affect 83 other guys. It's a challenge.''
The rash of injuries started late last month when rookies Marqise Lee (right ankle) and Allen Robinson (right hamstring) went down with injuries. Since then, Cecil Shorts III (calf), Ace Sanders (thigh), Tandon Doss (calf), Mike Brown (groin) and Lamaar Thomas (knee) have joined them on the sideline.
Jacksonville was down to four healthy receivers late last week, with Bumphis, Kerry Taylor, Allen Hurns and Damian Copeland getting all the repetitions. Of course, having just four at the position makes five-receiver sets tough, up-tempo offense nearly impossible and wears those guys out by the end of practice. It surely doesn't help that Bumphis, Taylor, Hurns and Copeland have 22 career receptions between them - all by Taylor.
The Jaguars responded by claiming rookie Kevin Smith off waivers from Arizona and signing rookie Brandon Wimberly off the street. Wimberly was with the team for a rookie camp last month, participating on a tryout basis.
So Jacksonville was up to six receivers Monday.
''I think we went through everything except three plays at the very end,'' Bradley said. ''We haven't been able to do that so much. We took our time and we taught in specific periods, so those guys helped us out.''
Although the Jaguars hope to get some of the injured receivers back later this week, they don't plan on rushing Shorts, Allen and Robinson back. All three are likely to miss next week's mandatory, three-day minicamp.
It does create opportunity for guys who otherwise might not get much of a look on a team that has the veteran Shorts and three receivers drafted over the last two years.
''All you can ask for is an opportunity,'' Bumphis said. ''Guys are down, and you hate to see that. You can sit around and worry about what they're doing or you can take it as a chance to get better and show the coaches what you can do. At this level, you don't get many opportunities, so when you do you've got to make the most of it.''
And staying on the field helps.
''Consistency is the key,'' Bumphis said. ''You wouldn't be here if they didn't think you could play. So now that you're here, you've got to show them on a consistent basis. You've got to step your game up to another level. If you're going to be with the 1s, you've got to play like that. I think that's what we're trying to do for the most part.''
AP NFL website: www.pro32.ap.org and www.twitter.com/AP-NFL


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tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-87422969276379082002018-08-30T08:22:28.035+01:00The Blog of DobThe Bridget Jones of board climbersdobbinhttp://firstname.lastname@example.com:blogger.com,1999:blog-8742296927637908200.post-76835091713606145962015-12-20T22:52:00.000+00:002015-12-20T22:52:56.218+00:00MegaShed
I have wondered whether i might be a sociopath. You read about people having children about how life affirming it is, how it completes them and how this is their focus henceforth - i envy those people if indeed these feelings are real. Becoming a parent for the first time I worried more about how it would affect my life, and when (or whether) i would get to go climbing (selfish fucker alert!) ever again. I wasn't someone who longed for children, or felt there was anything missing. If you like your life and are happy, it's easy to muddle along without changing anything, only perhaps you might one day look back and wish you did. Whatever, i'm not clever enough to have that level of foresight.

On November 5th our second child, Jemima was born. 7lbs9oz. Everything went great, really… if all births were this good more people would have them! we left home at 1130, she was born at 1206. We would have been home at 1700 but they were busy in the hospital and it got a bit later. Nevertheless, home the same day, stopping at the chippy on the way!

The second child is infinitely less terrifying than the first. Yes, there is an issue of logistics which makes things tricky, but you have already made the sea change and adapted to being a parent. Also, because you know how quickly it all changes, so you know this current feeding through the night thing is only a temporary state.

This is not about that. Well it sort of is. The bigger picture was always that we would have another. And with the benefit of hindsight, i knew time was going to be of the essence, and i also knew that it was totally possible to be keeping climbing, but that one needed to make it as time efficient as possible. When we bought this house it came with a 6x4" plastic shed at the top of a long thin garden (i think its 20m x 5m). This shed was neither use nor ornament, but was atop a concrete base. We started to shop for sheds. I reasoned that with it being so far away from the house, one could successfully hide a reasonable board, although no-one seemed to make anything suitable. Slowly i wore my wife down and persuaded her that self build was the way to go…. Principally, the thinking for this was height, and that a normal shed would not have been designed with the support of a board in mind. Eventually, after much 'honest discussion' the green light was granted for the shed build to start...

The central construction ethos for this build was "it'll be alright" and "does it look sort of straight" as is evident from the pictures. I started by extending the shed base. I dug down, levelled off, then smashed up some old flags and bricks and piled them into the area (the reason they get convicts to do this is that its hard work).

Once the base was laid I ordered £500 worth of wood from Arnold Laver. Then i built three frames. The thinking was that these would support the board and form the super structure, with a stud wall and roof to be hung off this skeletoon. Here is Harry with the first of the frames going up.

basically i made a frame on the floor and then propped it in a tree. He is 3.5 and about waist high to give you some perspective.

frame 2 now added, cross members holding it up and forming a box

here you can see the 'super structure' taking shape, the roof and the back of the board going in. The roof and back are just outdoor shuttering ply. I think the roof will be fine, as its clad in felt, but the back might have been better in shiplap or marine ply. What i might do is clad that in felt as well (there is some left!). This must have been about August/september time. The height at the front is 2.5m. Notice the board has moved to the right? this was the result of a full and frank exchange of opinions ;-)

 The board itself gets installed to the right hand side, and the ship lap cladding is being added. The gap is for the main door. To the right i wanted a vertical hinging door, so as to allow you to stand underneath it and be sheltered from rain. My ginger chum helped with the board application, as there is no way I could've have lifted it and screwed it into place on my own. He's a good egg. He also needed to see his son

 taking shape now.

 in this picture you can see the board in side profile, and that a work surface behind it. I have since fitted a vice here and this is the winter wheels storage corner.

 Finally, kinda looks like a shed!

 Here you can kind of see the vision of the front opening garage door thing. This means if there was more than one person round then you could stand and watch and not be in the way, also you have somewhere to shelter if its raining. I originally thought i would have to do this to cater for back swing, but actually its totally fine with the door shut. Yes you cant do flamboyant back swings, but thats fine - its a board, you should be keeping your feet on!

Finally, the second tier of the finger board got added.

To all intents and purposes it feels like an advanced fingerboard warm up board. Its 1.2m wide and 2.6m long. Clearly, you are never gonna hand in your climbing works membership in favour of climbing here (for a start, you aren't invited!), but that's not the point. I didn't make it with the intention of replacing the school or the works, i made it because i wanted to be able to have time efficient 45m/1hr sessions when i wouldn't have had time to go to the wall.
dobbinhttp://email@example.com:blogger.com,1999:blog-8742296927637908200.post-27109186795786576392015-11-26T10:44:00.001+00:002015-11-26T10:44:45.122+00:00The siege of summerWe all like the story of a good siege, where the protagonist succeeds after a battle and gets to make pronouncements about the deeply personal nature of their struggle, of how they overcame adversity and how they are now both richer and wiser as a result. Well not me. I have managed over all these years of climbing to manage not to absorb any wisdom whatsoever. Wisdom is overrated. If you are wise you probably get to the top of everything really quickly - like Ned. And look at how miserable he is.

It's been a long time since we spoke, and much has transpired. I don't think i ever really convincingly went back on Mecca except when Ben Thompson (world's worst belayer, but ripped face cat lover) wanted to try. As is the case with me and other people on that route, they get interested, look good and either do it or cant be bothered and move on, whilst i do ok for a bit but lack commitment to actually finish it. Anyway, another child has happened (three weeks ago today), and i got involved in (which is the siege bit) Grooved arete at Kilnsey.

Years ago when i first had a go on this route, i think i had a couple of sessions trying it and still had moves to do. Specifically the weird move by the third bolt to get to the pocket. I couldn't do it. Well this year I could. I said then that if i managed to get through that bit (and its not hard, its just a bit weird and slightly sketchy) then i would spend an age getting up to the 'jug' at the top and running out of steam, and that is what happened.

As a boulderer, the moves on GA are really steady. No one move you wouldn't comfortably do straight off the couch, but no appreciable rest either. Route climbers slap their way to the jug, but to them it IS a jug, so they get it all back and then complete the only mildly pokey move after it to get to the top. Me on the other hand, i follow a different pattern. First go, putting the drawers in, do it in sections - feel good. Go 2, the most likely go to yield success, I am over excited because i think i'm gonna do it, over grip everything and go too fast from the jug. Fail. Go 3, the pressure is off, climb really well up to the jug, now over compensate for previous rush, wait too long, realise diminishing returns, panic, try, fail.

In one session this summer, i got to the bloody jug four times! After the jug there are two slightly go-ey moves, which on their own are really steady. James and i went back one last time, when really it was too late in the season and really hard to keep warm, and i think i have found microbeta which should help complete it next summer. Hopefully (if i can remember what it was!).

Anyway, its gritstone season now - something about which i am excited. I love the change of seasons in terms of climbing style. I have many hopes and aspirations for this season of luck based scrittle, and the list of things which need 'mopping up' grows ever longer. By this i mean, these are things i have been on before and should really have done :

Wob - yr5

Bens wall - yr 10?

Seans arête - yr2

Art of white hat wearing yr 2 or 3

Full power yr lots

The dray, caley yr2

Scary canary, caley

Dick hymen, alms cliff

Back in the ymca - 9a

Flick of the wrist (travs thing at bbg, a bit shit but good lunchtime fodder)

spare rib at stanton - kept nearly doing this last year but wimping out being scared.

la poo (yes it is poo, but again a good one for lunches)

striker direct

Andy Browns wall, Cratcliffe, me and ned took harry to this after a night on the plonk with J_Fol (britains best bum doctor) and i nearly did it hung over, so should be possible!

Things i would like to do :

Exorcist

Superset

Lay-by arête

Red baron roof

To me to you

Silk sit

Western eyes (elbow permitting)

Back Street mime artist

Mushin

Golden egg

Solomon seal

Careless!!!!!!

Ape drape - i know, i know - never done it though.

dobbinhttp://email@example.com:blogger.com,1999:blog-8742296927637908200.post-47863753430328617662013-06-25T10:47:00.000+01:002013-06-25T10:47:17.903+01:00The Tipping pointThere must come a point in your climbing 'career' (Is there something presumptuous in calling it a 'career'? Climbing isn't a career, it's fun) when you stop getting better, and start getting worse?

From an athletic point of view there's definately a peak physical fitness age, when one can be the most beastly, but with climbing its so much more than beastliness (or should be). Perhaps that's what keeps us interested? Such a complex activity - so many facets, variables, opportunities and things to get wrong - its rarely just a simple question of strength (although be under no illusion, that helps).

I wondered whether i had reached my tipping point. I'm sure I used to be better on the board, more bouncy, better at comps and so on. But on consideration - i don't know that that is the case. I haven't been on the board as much as i used to go on it - I've been out rock climbing. So I might not be as strong, but am I a better climber? possibly (hopefully!). I think I've done more things, and I feel more competent, but where in the past I would have done some reet hard moves to get up something hard, now I have to climb it more efficiently. Within us all there is a ceiling limit of how good you can be with the resources (time, genetic muscle makeup, ability) we have. Or is there?! I'm all for boundless optimism, but realism creeps in, undermining my aspirations of burning Neddy off or doing one armers on the belay of Mecca!

Ah Mecca, Mecca, Mecca. Object of desire for so many, and more busy than the M62 on a friday night just lately. What does one do when confronted by the prospect of sitting in traffic? One does something else and waits for it to calm down. Then I saw Char's video :

https://vimeo.com/68128640
(Sexy guy at 20m - for 10s)

and that got me all psyched to go on it again! It's a cool route, and I dont like to leave things undone. But I dont lie awake at night thinking of the moves on it. That I think is because its already turned into too much of a siege. I should probably have gotten my head down and sorted it out already, but for various reasons - time, skin, fitness, child, fear - I've so far managed not to do it. But, watching the above, and being reminded of what I consider the halcyon days of limestone sport climbing, has made me want it again.

Perhaps because of my advancing years my project desire (i.e. the drive to get stuck into projects) has been tempered by a love of getting to the top! what I mean here is that I like doing hard moves, but I like succeeding more. So whilst I would like to climb 8c, i recognise that the effort required to make that happen would detract from the fun i could be having climbing more temperate things. Maybe then, this is the tipping point? instead of getting on dead hard things with blind optimism, maybe now I'm more realistic in my goals???dobbinhttp://email@example.com:blogger.com,1999:blog-8742296927637908200.post-91955034017069916192013-05-24T09:51:00.000+01:002013-05-24T09:51:01.783+01:00The curse of being too into climbing
All these people desperate to work in climbing or do something to do with it for a job - don't you get bored? doesn't everything always being about climbing all of the time get to you? It's nice not to have all your eggs in one basket. When you see young punks strutting around the climbing wall, 'cock o' the wave', and they aspire to being outdoor pursuits instructors - i always think - what's your exit plan though? i mean, do you still see yourself doing it at 50? I don't know, I obviously haven't and don't do that job, so maybe its great and really fulfilling, but its not something that immeadiately appears to tick all the boxes.

Then there's roped access. The preserve of the hard core rock jock, but again - do you really think after a 12 hr day on the ropes you're gonna be bustin out the big moves on the wave? Its gruelling dirty work, often with a few hours drive at either end of a day. Malcy famously would still train after the day described above, but this is Malcy we are talking about - one of the most driven dedicated human beings, with a proven record in hard work. Certainly, rope access isn't for everyone.

I'm not saying you shouldn't do these things, or that they are worthless careers, just that you should go into them with your eyes open. Be realistic about your prospects and what will make you happy. You're a long time at work, so doing something you hate just because its not office based is a mistake. Whats so bad about the office anyway - at the end of the day, at least you're gagging for action! Of course, most of the time people slip into these things because they think that they will make them happy which may or may not be true.

I have created a chart of climbing occupations ordered by desperateness :

Roped access worker L1 - the lowest of the low, grinding out the hours, being the lackey for the L2 and L3 workers. Considered by everyone to be a goon.

Climbing Wall reception slave - face of the climbing walls, to the punter you are cool because you made the choice to work in climbing, but you're bored.

Climbing Instructor - see above. You stand by miserably as legion after legion of bored children come through having to feign enthusiasm

Gear shop worker - you still have to talk to punters. Its hard work. You have to talk to punters again. limited scope for drinking tea.

Roped access worker L2 - still hard dirty work, but with measurably more standing around and drinking tea.

Climbing wall cafe slave - in my day this meant covered in chip fat, hung over, in a hot broom cupboard and able to see your mates having fun through the window, but nowadays it means baking nice cakes and looking at the internet, hence its position in this list.

Climbing wall manager - You get to do all the hard work the wall owners dont want to do, but there are a lot of perks. Plus, you get to boss 2, 3 and 6 (and possibly 4) about. Long hours, and do you really want to stay at work after youve finished doing rock climbs?

Route setter - Hard work, you get to be a virtuoso and some people will actively hate you because of your work!

Roped access worker L3 - standing around, drinking unfeasible quantities of tea, telling people off. Still grotty, and long hours.

Climbing film maker - Your fastidious nature means you spend hours agonising over the detail, but then the goons will scrutinise your work, so you need to.

Roped access trainer - sitting around, drinking unfathomable quantities of tea, eating biscuits, paying for Alex Puccio's internet and telling people off on internet forums. Oh, and running climbing soft goods companies on the side

climbing soft goods manufacturer - you work really hard, but dont have to do too much goon liason, and besides - you are Ben Moon, so none of this matters, you were the best in the world! Go and look at that picture of agincourt again.

sponsored hero - you get to go climbing all the time, but everyone always expects you to be on it, and then you have to go to boot demoes and talk to people - Pretending that you care that they want to do their first 7a this year.

Gear rep - you drive around the country in a fast car someone else has paid for, getting to go to the gear shops and burning their staff off on their projects. A young single man's job (excepting Paul Craven ;-))

Climbing Wall owner - the cream of the crop.

Right, i think i have offended nearly everyone there. Back to work

dobbinhttp://firstname.lastname@example.com:blogger.com,1999:blog-8742296927637908200.post-46963823665708494742013-05-08T16:12:00.001+01:002013-05-08T16:12:25.411+01:00Winter round up
Often, in quiet moments on the motorway/toilet, I think to myself - I really should write something on the internet. By now though its almost been so long that any post would be a massive rambling monolog which you don't want to read, and I don't want to write. And besides, why should I write anything? that was always the good thing, I didn't have to do it, there was (and is) no agenda, I can say whatever the fuck i want. Or not. The thing with the internet is that you get out of it what you put in. If you lurk quietly reading things, you've invested your time, and you might come away with some knowledge (which may or may not be lies), but by contributing you get so much more back. In my writing this its an ordering of thoughts, and a bit of catharsis. Putting some things down so they get out of my head. The thing is you see, that if I dont write anything, the thoughts and rants still happen, they just get internalised, and I have to deal with them. Why not share the pain?

So then, lets get to it. I had said i wouldn't go to Switzerland this year, and so as expected, when the boys booked their trip i was jealous. Bendy challenged my reasons for not coming, and i had one of those epiphany moments where you think 'actually, yes - thats a good point'. My reasons were that it wouldnt be fair to leave her with the boy whilst he didn't sleep through, only he pretty much does now. I opened negotiations, and because whilst she wasn't back at work - it kind of made sense to go. So, i find myself with a month to train, suddenly about to go on a trip, fat and weak and pudgy after christmas. The last time we went, noone had been able to get out for weeks because of the weather, so we all had shit skin. This time I overcompensated, going buck wild and grinding sheets of skin off in the process. And that's where plans started to become unravelled. On the Thursday before we flew out on the Saturday I went to Earl - possibly the sharpest grit crag in the uk, and it was a bit damp to boot. Then on the saturday night after we had arrived, I applied Uncle Hydral to my already thin dry skin.... If you're not slapping your forehead with your hand now, you should be. First day, we go to Cresciano. I get two deep fissure splits in the pads of both index fingers. On the first day! Major error. Still, you live and you learn hey? We did some fun rock climbs, had a nice trip but really truly and deeply, i didnt come back having done what i wanted to do. However, i believe you only loose out if you choose to think that you do. I prefer to look on the bright side. I got close to doing something i really wanted to do, and did some cool climbing and had a nice time. The end.

Got back, did Famous Grouse. Felt dead hard, hilarious video on Faceache with gravity defying leg flick. Nearly did Walk on by, but nearly is nowhere, and ultimately I didn't. Got quite excited about art of white hat wearing, but also came away empty handed. That was a problem where I got to the top with one plan in mind, only to realise that there was no way it was going to work.

Started trying Ben's groove sit at caley. Left it too late in the year to get on that one really, and although thought i was gonna do it, basically climbed up to the crux, fell off, then could do from there to the top. i.e. i didn't actually do the move. Mina tried to rope me in to careless. Blew her out to go on WoB with Neddy. That was the day she did it! error.

Went snowballing which was cool, but lets be completely clear - you are still soloing, just from a bit higher ground. Remembered about wanting to do chip shop brawl just as the snow all went. Had massive revelation that the only reason anyone does trad is because its all piss, just a bit scary.

Finally, jasons roof. Mina did it in a session (good effort!). I went on a mission after work and thought it was 8b. Couldn't do some of the moves. Watched her video and slowly it came together. She climbs it really well. Went from not being able to do sections to having two overlapping halves, and then to redpointing, and to actually nearly doing it. Went back a week later, which was too soon. Skin scabbed over from the week before, scabs fell off, i bled and it was just too painful. Imagine the scene, Neddy, Jon Fullwood, Sam Whittaker and the Folinator all wanting to know what to do. I style out to the lip, getting to the jug but slipping off, and we all think that its definately on for me. Neddy then nearly flashes it. Sam and John pull it out of the bag, James forges a path, and I get out there another 4 times but never finish the deal! Beautiful walk out. John and Ned do a new problem. Neddy does sidewinder.

Have a week off from trying, to go to the county, where I finally manage Cubby's lip. The yorkshireman is still 8b. We go to Hepburn, and I wish we had gone there first. Preparation H is possibly the best problem in the country! I wobble up Northern Soul which is super cool.

Manage to get back to crookrise the week after, and expect to smash Jasons straight away. Not so, still have to fight for it, and in the end when i do it, it takes its toll of flesh and I climb it really badly! you will see when i get round to the video. So now thats that, the end of the brown rocks (???). Pretty psyched for bolt clipping. we will see what the summer holds.

 dobbinhttp://email@example.com:blogger.com,1999:blog-8742296927637908200.post-78216247278984228382012-12-21T09:52:00.000+00:002012-12-21T09:52:22.897+00:00The 25th of August! That was when we last spoke, which is in stark contrast to the daily updates of old. And its not that I dont love you anymore, nor have I lost the appetite to poke fun, just a question of priorities. Also, I've actually been working rather than giving voice to my existential debates on the internet. Anyway, enough about that. What's happened since August? Well, firstly, a girl did Mecca. Admittedly one who climbs 8B (yeah yeah, she will soon ok - think of it as future proofing), which prompted me to crank up my trusty ginger sidekick and head to the tor. As is commonly the case these days, he did it and I didnt. Nick took some nice pictures.

The rest of limestone season was driven largely by the prospect of going to Stoney chippy on the way home. Ned tried the Bastard, Jon Welford's visionary testpiece from the mid nineties but only managed one and a half moves, Nick took more pictures, and I did the Sissy again. A far cry from the blissful evenings idling away at the Cornice last year. Anyway, Stoney chippy is indeed a good chippy.

I was glad of the shift of focus to the brown rocks, and unsuprised to discover I was even less competent than before. There were little forays of success, tales of skin mismanagement and more stories of failure. I failed on the art of white hat wearing and great white, but did (and recommend) the Hippo.

I learnt that the weather is so consistently bad, that if you have chance, even if it is for just an hour - you should go out, and to that end I have been collecting projects close to home - i.e. accessible in a couple of hours quick raid. These so far include The art of white hat wearing, great white, monochrome, boyager, Walk on by, full power, western eyes and musee imaginaire (which was the scene of a hideous failure with Bransby the other day).

In child news - he has his first tooth, so although he's been a bit grumpy he's still really good. Nearly nine months old now, and although its all anyone says - it goes so fast. To which end although the first three months are hard work and you do wish the time away a bit, it gets loads better and now he is really fun to play with. Still hard work mind. (ours in nearest the camera in this pic)

Anyway, happy xmas! hope you have a good festive yuletide and that you consume a river of port and a mountain of mince pies (i.e. so I can burn you off when I see you at the wall).

dobbinhttp://email@example.com:blogger.com,1999:blog-8742296927637908200.post-55128335087039863582012-08-25T22:56:00.001+01:002012-08-25T22:56:25.822+01:00What doctors do when they don't have jobs

Here's Rupert and Dylan making the best out of the bad weather, me enjoying a little saucisson on one of my regular big wall missions and finally some insight into my secret training scheme, just before an intense wedge workout.

All work credit the twisted mind of Dr folie

dobbinhttp://email@example.com:blogger.com,1999:blog-8742296927637908200.post-22309231892328713202012-07-31T19:49:00.001+01:002012-07-31T19:49:41.958+01:00Some holiday snaps

dobbinhttp://email@example.com:blogger.com,1999:blog-8742296927637908200.post-60844459146708269162012-07-20T10:08:00.001+01:002012-07-20T10:08:06.403+01:00Direct Action
I have actually managed to climb outside in the last two weeks. Admittedly, it involved being rained on, but I did actually manage to climb something. Which was nice.

On the 12th Nick and I went to the Tor and did Wild in Me. This involved stuffing rags into holes and pulling them out before climbing. I.e. pretty desperate. We also went round to Rubicon which was totally (and some would point out) predictably, flooded. The evening finished at Stoney's Minus ten wall, which means I don't have to go there for another five years.

Yesterday I returned to Kilnsey with Britain's preeminent bum doctor and Keighley's second favourite ginger primary school teacher (about to loose his title). This was a high risk strategy based entirely on the strength of text messages from the dangerous subversive Aaron Deakin. However, when we arrived it was actually good. There were dry holds, and a fresh breeze. I however, had forgotten my harness. Kilnsey is an impressive crag of some rather significant girth, not one which the prospect of climbing with a sling harness appeals particularly. We set about the mandela training traverse - A sideways shuffle the crux of which involves avoiding nettles. Although you wouldn't travel to Kilnsey to go bouldering, this actually turned out to be quite fun. Whilst James and I engrossed ourselves in the real line of the crag, such fanciful creatures as Awesome Mawson and strong blonde lady set about flashing everyone else's route projects, but I could see them jealously eyeing our traverse, wondering how two such fat men could lift such weight, and how we hadn't pulled the crag over.

Thankfully our Keighley cousin arrived just in time for us to finally exhaust ourselves and for him to be best. Which indeed he was. Delighted to be at a damp midge infested hell hole, he rattled off the Directissima. I also took a turn on the lead, whilst the lilly livered bum doctor shaked and grumbled his way up on a topper. As the medical miracle swore and trembled, Kev and I dreamt up a challenge. Would the Directissima be possible in trainers? well, yes it would. A fun exercise that made you think more about your feet and work a bit harder. Lowering back to the ground, we all had a quick go on Face Value. Kev again in trainers, us two now totally boxed - having a whitey in climbing shoes. Quick pint at the Old Hall and then home.

Meanwhile, I have an email from our old friend Dick Splinters. Dick's planning to launch a top secret training app on the appstore. I've seen a prototype, and it seems to involve a lot of videos of Dick, wearing brightly coloured Y Fronts, doing implausible things with a campus rung. In one video he appears to nearly get his dog to talk - nearly. Unbelievable. Not sure what Dave Macleod would think about some of his training ideas mind. One of them seems to involve using the campus rung in an altogether different fashion where ones arms come into play only to hold onto the pillow. dobbinhttp://firstname.lastname@example.com:blogger.com,1999:blog-8742296927637908200.post-72005453644070552102012-07-12T11:58:00.000+01:002012-07-12T12:02:36.460+01:00Sheepsk!nI haven't had any revelations recently, and i haven't been actual rock climbing either - so there's been scant little to reveal to you. Well, there are a couple of things :

Joe le Sage has a blog. Far from the usual droning on about rock climbing tosh, its a cooking blog. Read his musings here : http://jlskitchendiary.blogspot.co.uk/

We took the boy on his first holiday. We went to Pembrokeshire, and stayed in a beautiful cottage. Here's some pictures :

this was our house

The bedroom

bath in the bedroom

whitesands bay. nice and clean, but only small

three musketeers at Barafundle bay

throwing some fins

cool things we found whilst we were there :
Pant Mawr - amazing local cheese shop
UltraComida - spanish tapas serving deli in Narberth
Melin Trgwynt - welsh woollen blankets
Surf forecast for whitesands on Ma Simes

dobbinhttp://firstname.lastname@example.com:blogger.com,1999:blog-8742296927637908200.post-25354391257856054822012-06-21T09:09:00.001+01:002012-06-21T09:21:52.832+01:00Three months old
It's not been a bad time to have had a baby and be out of the running to be honest. Since he arrived, don't think I haven't been climbing - i have, just only for short spells, and indoors. Which sounds like its been ok because it's been tipping it down or boiling hot anyway. The opportunities missed have been scarce, and whilst I don't like to be a miserable choad and wish that whilst I can't, neither can you - it's easier to bear than hearing about loads of stuff getting done when you can't go. Which is a point I would like to make - when you're expecting a baby, people are such doom chimps - 'oooh, you'll not be doing this and that when the baby comes' and so on. You will, you can do anything you want - just for less time and whilst tired! Why do people take such delight in doing this? wierdos.

I described fatherhood to Adam as being exactly the same, but without the whimsy. By which I meant you still get to go climbing, and do what you want to do, but the whimsical flights of fancy of before have to be shelved. I reckon even they will come back, but not perhaps for a little while. Mind you, being the first father's day this last weekend, I did get to indulge myself and take the boy for a walk down Cheedale. Not since the bad old days have i seen a crag that wet (remember, the years when the cornice didnt dry out?). I had heard that people had been on martial music and unleashing, but both of these were nearly waterfalls, and the nemesis start was so soaked i struggled to make out the holds (I was actually looking for the one which had broken, and am now concerned its the crimp jug you bone with your right hand to go back left. Is it?

So, three months old and already been dragged to the wet crag. What hope for the minibeast? He's also been to the Climbing Works. Slept through the first hour, and then had a bit of feed and a kick on the mats by the board. Which, according to Helen - is very like her sessions (this made us laugh). Unfortunately, he also had to suffer the endless tirade which is Alex Barrows. One can only wonder as to the damage which must surely have been done to his little mind as the gangly grade bagger slopped his floppy clown shoes onto the enormous bivi ledge footholds which exist for weak people and warm ups. To compensate, I sellotaped a picture of malc to the inside of his basket, and he fell asleep with a kettlebell in his paw. Hopefully this is enough to reverse the damage.
dobbinhttp://firstname.lastname@example.com:blogger.com,1999:blog-8742296927637908200.post-13318249127423002412012-05-08T10:32:00.001+01:002012-05-08T10:32:04.389+01:00A new start
"Halleluia" they thought - he's stopped blighting us with his vitriolic rants about weight vests, showing off and how good Ned is. No more the pointless gossip about who linked which hold to which on the beastmaker board, the self obsessed drivel about endless failure, or random musings on the perils of filling your splits with anti hydral. The Maclellan witch hunter, cast from the blogosphere, has finally hung up his boots? They wrung their hands in anticipation. Well no, sorry. He is/I am back. Once again. With the ill behaviour.

The building work dragged on into an eighth week. It felt like longer that men wielding power tools had been creating plumes of dust in the house. It feels now like that was all of a different world - one where she was still pregnant, and everything was as normal - just that she didn't walk far or drink gin. We were driving down Carterknowle road that evening, and as we crashed over a speedbump, her waters broke. 10 days earlier than the due date, a week away from the end of the building and everything was covered in dust and in boxes! We just wanted to collect up the waters, push them back up and seal the baby in for a few weeks.

We'd been whispering to it that it wasnt to come until the 16th - a week after its due date, but it wouldn't listen. It (cos he was still an it at this point) had been wrestling and kicking away at his mother, desperate to get out, but we weren't ready. There's a risk of infection from having your waters gone but not being in labour, so we ended up getting induced in jessops on wednesday the 28th. We had wanted to have a water birth, for her to be active during labour, and to stay at home as long as possible, but all this goes out the window when being induced, because you're hooked up to a drip and can't move about. Plus, as labour is being brought on by a synthetic version of the hormone, it suddenly comes on at full tilt, so you don't get chance to build up to it. We were warned to expect it to be hard, and consider all the pain relief options. It's not a competition, so we took them. And things went from being fraught and her suffering to her chatting with her dad about colour schemes for the house!

After a pretty chilled labour, we started pushing at about 11pm. They ended up suckering him and giving him a little pull to get him the last bit out, and at 12:46am on Thursday the 29th Harry Jack Morton hatched. As he was pulled clear of his mum, my eyes caught sight of a little red ball bag - a boy! get in! I couldn't believe it. So many people seem to have been having girls, that whilst I wanted a boy, I didn't expect to actually get one. They put him straight on his mum's chest and he squealed and squealed whilst two new parents looked at him and at each other and felt relief and awe and mild terror! It was like we hadn't realised there was going to be a baby at the end of it all. The world started to spin faster, and it hasn't slowed down since!

All through pregnancy and labour, the support is brilliant. The staff of Jessops are amazing. They do an incredible job, but at the end of it you are presented with your child and it feels like you've jumped off the cliff - all these people helped you get there, then pushed you off! It's then that the realisation dawns on you that you're gonna have to look after this totally dependant thing from hereafter, that your self indulgent lifestyle of old has gone forever - and we weren't unhappy! People do warn you that things change when you have a child but you just think 'yeah, yeah - whatever, we'll still do stuff' and I have no doubt that we will, but for the first few months its all about them.

The tide brings a ceaseless stream of visitors, then slowly the frequency abates, and you start to get back to normal. Only its not the old normal, its a new 'dictated-by-child' normal. One of the things people have said which most resonated was that the first couple of weeks were more about coping than anything else, and now six weeks on we're already getting better at it, and I have come to realising that something else a friend said is also true - the days may seem to drag on, but the weeks and months fly past. Six weeks old already. Six weeks, and much chunkier, more alert and almost having a smile baby exists, and its parents whilst not fully competent, can make at least a reasonable show of knowing what they are doing.

So then, what you really want to know, is during this paradigm shift in my life - how much have I been climbing? well, I figured I wouldnt be going out much, so i bought a kettlebell, and did a few sessions of hanging, but have actually been popping to the wall a couple of times a week, certainly after the first three weeks, and in the day rather than of an evening. But you know what? in the daytime the wall is full of other dads on stealth missions, and the weather's been shit anyway.

So it's ok fatherhood. At least so far. The feelings of this child has taken over my life and I dont get to choose what i do have been replaced by ones of 'but he is cute though', and dreams of his future and wondering what he'll be into. I chatted to Gill Whittaker last night (Katy and PWhiddy's mum) about how she got them into it, and know the secrets. Nick Brown seems keen to make him the next Adam Ondra, Foley's had a go, and he even did a poo on Ned. 'Doin' allright, getting good grades, future's so bright - i gotta wear shades'...dobbinhttp://firstname.lastname@example.com:blogger.com,1999:blog-8742296927637908200.post-57306900449004049152012-03-07T10:52:00.001+00:002012-03-07T10:52:27.385+00:00weighed down
Right. This has been brewing for some time, but I haven't had time to spout it. Weight Vests. Ever since there was that damned video about Patxi Usobiaga circling his board with one on, thats all you see young hopefuls wearing. Me and Foley even bought them, and I'm not saying there's something wrong with using them, or that they couldn't lead to results, but that these days they are more often being misused for the purposes of showboating.

Training with weight on has been around for years. It's led to some great injuries and to some strong people. Undoubtedly it could work, but it's a high risk strategy. Yes, if you don't break then you could get strong - nay, very strong - but unless you progressively build up the weight and do it properly having identified that really is your weakness, you're at risk of breaking yourself. That's not actually the point here. Since that bloody video I see two things at our walls - people climbing short problems on JUGS with weight vests on, and people who have no jobs coming down at the busiest time of day and sharking on the comp wall - i.e. watching people, waiting for them to fail on something, and then mincing up it in a weight vest. If this describes you - you are a CUNT.

Patxi was using weight, and climbing on jugs - but doing a lot of moves. He was training endurance. Doing 5 or 6 moves to get to the top of the comp wall on a problem you have done 100 times, with a weight vest on is training your ego. Stop show boating and do harder problems. Are you seriously saying that you cannot do hard enough moves withough having to add weight? You're not trying the right problems. Use smaller holds. Worse feet.

You can train power with added weight, but climbing problems you have wired isn't doing that - it's showing off. Analyse your weakness, is ability to swing between jugs carrying a rucsac really it? If you want to get strong - hang from a fingerboard with weight on. If you want more power - do powerful moves - get on the Beastmaker board - you don't need to add weight to make that hard, so why aren't you there? oh I see - because you cant get to the top, and you want to look good!

Ultimately, you can do whatever you want of course, but don't let's lie about it. dobbinhttp://firstname.lastname@example.com:blogger.com,1999:blog-8742296927637908200.post-91612207714647343142012-02-22T12:53:00.001+00:002012-02-22T12:53:32.971+00:00Walk in the Dark
A scraping noise from above alerted me to the sinewy form of Chris Nicholas Webb Parsons opening his bedroom window - 'ah mate, ya flaming galaaa - aaaahm just on the skype to me shiela, mate. Ripper', and with that a key hurtled towards me. Let yourself in I thought - nice. You dont get a chance like this too often...

I creep stealthily through Ned's darkened bedroom doorway, hearing only light snuffling noises from within. I inch forward. The ginger love god faces into the opposite corner, surrounded by strange roped contraptions and pictures of malcolm smith, and appears to be examining his tail. Perhaps its itchy I think, as I leap forward and capture him in my net. A quick squirt of cat nip and his yelps are subdued. I bundle him into the car, but as I am loading him, the chiseled cheeks of one time hippy Ben Thompson make an appearance. Thinking quickly I whip out a cream horn and whilst he's dazzled, he too is swept into the back of the car.

It's not actually raining at Curbar gap, although the wind feels like its scouring our very souls for weakness. I frog march them to 'Walk on By' and force Ned to work out a sequence. Ben huddles in a cleft weeping quietly. Soon Ned and I are scratching our way upwards on rat crimps and dirty grifters. Neither of us do it, but he gets to holding the top pinch. It was only because of Ben's tears wetting the holds that we have to give up. That was Monday.

Last night on the way home from work I went back to Anston Stones. I have been trying to do that Dark Art problem for what feels like ages, but is actually about four visits. It's one of those problems which I think I was quite close to when I first went on it, but then seemed to keep not doing. Anyway, it was good nic, and I felt good. I knew I was going to do it when I started warming up. Things felt good, i knew what to do, i had the errors dialled but i wasn't going to make them. Two redpoints later it still wasn't in the bag. I was getting closer though.

There's a danger of putting your heel on the floor during the first move, and sometimes as you move upwards there's a doubt in the back of your mind whether you weighted it, but not this time. This time i must have been in a slightly different position and the holds just felt better! Everything happened right. All the holds caught perfect, adjusted to get the best out of them and moved past. As I matched up on the good dishes over the roof the thought 'dont blow it now' kept coming back, and I pictured myself crumpled on the pads having fallen from here. Engaged maximum safety slow motion climbing mode, and thankfully, this bit was both easy and well rehearsed. I scuttled to the jugs, panting like a cornered nun. YYFY! dobbinhttp://firstname.lastname@example.com:blogger.com,1999:blog-8742296927637908200.post-46893586207797703442012-02-17T09:34:00.001+00:002012-02-17T09:34:14.857+00:00rock climbingSince we've been back, I just wanted to go climbing. I have suspended any aspirations and have just gone out and done stuff (as opposed to projecting things, or getting sucked into any sieges). When we got back from Swizzers I was a bit down on my climbing, and this is what I needed to give me my mojo back. It's all well and good coming home with some big numbers in the bank, but climbing is more than just occasionally doing hard stuff, it should also be fun. Years ago Roy told me to stop training and go climbing - sage advice, and something which really helped me as a climber.

I love training, and I love doing hard moves on the board (ok, ok - hard moves for me - yeah, they might be jugs to you), but I also love getting to the top of actual rock climbs, and going to new places. So, since we have been back I have been on a bit of mopping up mission. Getting some stuff I have meant to do for ages done, and boshing out some new steady ones as well. Here's a list of the scuffles of the last few weeks :

1) Small is beautiful, burbizzle. Always quite fancied this for some reason. John Allen classic. Dispatched in a lunchtime raid the week after Swizzers.
2) Velvet Crab, burbage again. Me and Ed went out that saturday it was freezing cold and finally went and closed this one down. There's some fat guy on it in the guide, so it cant be that hard... ;-P
 3) Blind Date, Burbage. Done on the same day as above, as the snow started. pretty log, but for completeness sake.
RingPiece, Ilkley. Can this really be 7b+? Went after work, thinking it didnt look that far (from Pudsey), it is, and the roads are busy. Meant to do Superset as well, but it went dark and I went for chips. Is the Pub nice? it looks it.
 4) Jess Roof, Almscliff. Hooray! I have had odd goes on this here and there over the years, but I am always on my own, and its a bit scary. This one was this Tuesday. Lovely day - incredible condition at the cliff, just got on and rinsed it. Very pleased.
 5) Streaky's Traverse, Almscliff - a bit shit, but another one done.
6) Buffy wants daddy, Almscliff. See above really. Quite interested in the link ups.
7) Jerry's Traverse, Stanage. This Wednesday - now I know this is a bum drag and possibly the least most inspiring problem at one of the best crags in the Peak, but its a good one to do on your own (although I wasnt), and once I got started on it i wanted it done.

Its been fun, actually doing things. dobbinhttp://firstname.lastname@example.com:blogger.com,1999:blog-8742296927637908200.post-37502634139572823972012-01-31T10:08:00.001+00:002012-01-31T10:08:11.016+00:00Swizzers 2012
Switzerland. The land of soft grades and the easy 8a? I don't think so. Things get done in switzerland not because they're soft, but because they're basic, and because basic climbing you can replicate indoors. And the weather is better. It doesn't mean the grades are soft, just that you're successfully able to precondition yourself to be able to do the climbs there. Of course, as with any area there are sandbags, and there are soft touches. Could this be the set up for me justifying a big holiday trophy I've bought back? I wish! more like it's I want to feel better about not doing anything!

You watch the videos on the internet of people doing hard things, and they make them look so easy. You forget that the people in these videos are the international wads, they are eight stone, 6ft4 and have practically unlimited time reserves. Expecting yourself to pull out similar performances on a week long trip is expecting a lot. I was laboring under the pressure of matching the last trip. Two 8a's, each in a session - surely 8a+ would be possible with a bit of grit (and cherry picking) and determination?

Me, Ben Pritchard, James Foley. Switzerland. One week, a whole host of hard things to do. I'd been dedicated, made sacrifices and felt strong on the board. My pre trip board project had gone down, the signs were good. We get up ludicrously early to catch a plane. Spend that afternoon having a potter around to get moving and shake off the fog of travel.

Next day we go up to Cresciano again to meet the other team (Sam, Lu, Rubber Chicken and the illegal immigrant). The first sign of a problem is that my wood soft skin feels sore on the warm ups. Bendy gets on La Pelle and does a couple of really good links. It looks like he could do this classic problem. We have a go on Franks, and I quickly realise its not something I could easily do ever. James looks really good on it, getting his heel in and coming off matching. Then we go up to Stinky Pete, which is one of the lines of Cresciano. Its high and with a bad landing, so you need a team to do it, and finally I'm in one. Three of us keep getting up there, but bailing out before the top. It takes a 14 yr old tree frog to show us the way, but noone else summits. An italian midget in a muscle vest turns up and I get told off for grooming him. We go to la proue and I make a try. These holds are jugs. Honestly - they are. But that foothold is shit. Its like a quarter of a marble. I manage to take my weight for a millisecond but cannot move. We go to La Boule and those two do la boulette, Foley with an alarming flourish on the rounded top out, uttering the immortal words 'I'm sketching' as he scrabbles for purchase.

The top thing on my list was the Freak Brothers. And on paper this one should have suited. I reached into the crimp and it felt good, I was suprised. The problems I had been setting on the boards had smaller holds than this, but it wasnt linear, it wasnt a simple function of finger strength, it was a wierd body position thing. I experimented about with it for a bit but my skin hurt and I didn't really get very far. Shit. I really wanted to do this one. I think its a great looking problem and it should have been up my street. Hmm. Talking of good looking problems - boogalagga! wow.

Next day we go to Brione. James is to get on Fake Pamplemousse, I want to try ganymede takeover, and then we plan to explore some of the bits we havent been to before. I feel whalloped. Ganymede feels more basic than Freak Brothers but everything hurts and I dont get too far. James makes progress on the pamplemousse. Bendy and I rest. We go to Molunk, past the cellar door. Molunk looks brilliant. I'd deliberately left my boots in the car, but it looks so good I run down to get them. Leaving James to work out the sequence. I end up doing it in the dark illuminated by my friends headtorches, and with a madmans 8b sequence.

Bendy had rested completely at Brione. And I needed to rest today (wednesday). He had looked so good on La Pelle, that was what he wanted to do. A lazy start to let it get out of the sun, then we started him off at Hannibal Lecter. Very quickly he was getting to the lip, but didnt feel it was coming quick enough but that he was warm, so we went over to the main event. He seemed to struggle to get going, but eventually put in some really good links - I know he still felt there was quite a lot to do. We head over to la nave va to finish.

Somewhat rejuvenated, i return to Freak brothers on Thursday. I feel good and immeadiately the difference is obvious. I get closer, but am some way off the pace still, and eventually realise am going backwards and stop. Dammit! We go to find Dr Crimps and Bendy and I manage to scratch our way up razor blades. Hideous. Now we drive back to Cresc, and this time me and James go to Hannibal Lecter. I manage to session flash it, and James gets really close. Bendy makes another try on La Pelle, but is more tired than he realised, and despite eventually battling through to put in some good links, it doesnt come together. I had a half baked idea about trying the direct, but its fully 8a+ in a move, so I stop.

We spend the final day up at Brione again. I get closer to Ganymede, but skin is really hurty, and despite doing some more moves, I cant bear the pain and give up. Bendy suddenly has a Pamplemousse epiphany and works out how to do the first move. He's getting up there on every go, and even gets his left over the top at one point. Sadly he doesnt finish it and comes away empty handed. James makes good progress, has more goes than jim, but misses out as well. We go to find General Disarray and marilyn Monroe. That hold on Disarray is brilliant. What a nice piece of rock. The spoog is out in full force and we cant remember what Sam said to do. Make progress, but a confusing sequence and bad conditions stop play. Finish the day, and the trip up at Molunk where I realise my sequence from the other day is a very hard way of doing it, and manage to find an easier method. James and Bendy get close but dont do. We walk out broken and ready to be going home the next day.

So, lessons learnt : Its good to be feeling strong on the board, but you also need to be outdoors rock climbing to toughen your skin and deaden your finger nerves. Pick your battles - get on them early in a trip. If you can't at first then either use will power and don't do anything, or pick something else you can get on. Know when to stop and when not to try.

Be realistic about what you can honestly expect to achieve in a weeks holiday. Remember you're not an 8st professional climber and set your goals appropriately. Or, set stretching ones, but dont get down about it when you dont achieve them. Most of all, remember that its just climbing and that you are on holiday. Have fun with your mates. Take the piss, get drunk, eat party food - life's too short! dobbinhttp://email@example.com:blogger.com,1999:blog-8742296927637908200.post-90143636234930640152012-01-16T10:56:00.001+00:002012-01-16T10:56:25.744+00:0090's computer games
I remember when I first met him. It was at the Edge comp, and he was 16. I burnt him off. I managed to keep doing so for perhaps as much as a year after that. But he pushed me. I had to try really hard to keep in front, and then suddenly, he was ahead. We were friends by then though, and I considered him my protege. I was pleased, and I bathed in the reflected glory that he brought back. All he had to do was accompany me to the nineties hotspots which I remained obsessed with, and try to stay awake on belay duty.

I am of course talking about Leicester's answer to Fred Dibnah - the three times British Champ Nedwin Van Der Freewilly. The point of this misty eyed reverie was that he seems to have made another leap forwards of late. He's gone from being good to in another ballpark good. I'm psyched for him. He flashed who needs ready brek on Saturday, and Tetris, then took a few goes to do Columns. I was impressed. Then he nearly did that thing of Dan's round the corner. All this whilst injured!

Ned's always maintained that he is a behemoth in the weight stakes, and he certainly is heavier than some of the stick thin teenagers we see flinging themselves between crimps, but that's because he's a solid clod of milky white muscle. I've gone really hefty since xmas, and seemingly no amount of being good is helping. That said, I am being good, but I could be better. Life's too short to deny yourself everything, but with Switzerland at the end of the week, I could just do with dropping a few pounds. Wonder how heavy i was last year? it doesn't say on the blog either.

Anyway, this all struck me after meeting Ned and Ben Thompson (ripped face) at Tetris along with just about everyone else in the western world. With Mushin wet it was a bit mobbed. Although a cold day, the sun was out and it felt greasy. Didn't stop Ned flashing it though, and Ben doing it and Columns too. Watching Neddy on Columns made me appreciate how good he's gone. I don't think he comprehends the many ways you can fail which I can think of. I mean, I look at something and think that looks hard, I can't comprehend of how to do this bit or that bit or whatever, whereas I think he looks at things and thinks - that looks ok, and can just do it. Little shit. This was how it was with me and the alphane moon last year - I'd watched the videos, knew I could pull on those holds, and so I approached it thinking I could do it. And do it i did. Self Belief is an under rated component in success. I'm not saying that if you believe you can do anything you can do it, just that approach things with winning in mind, and if they are realistic you WILL succeed.

Tetris is a good looking rock climb. Would benefit from being overcast though. I do it in the full sun, but compared to going back on it to showboat later on - it feels a different kettle of fish when the sun has set. And what a sunset! I have no concept of how to do Columns. I just can't compute the motion required. dobbinhttp://email@example.com:blogger.com,1999:blog-8742296927637908200.post-68644114541820251882012-01-09T11:24:00.001+00:002012-01-09T11:24:09.930+00:00The Dick Splinters emails - episode 2
Dick Splinters sent me another one of his long ranty emails. I thought you might like to read it, so here's the best bits :

"I fucking love it when it rains. It means I can go on my board and PULL DOWN! Its always in condition my board. When the weather's fine, I feel obliged to go out with my 'friends' and lurch between gritstone breaks whilst my feet scrabble uselessly behind me. They're not real friends, if they were they would come and sit in the sofa behind the board and coo as I flick effortlessly between glued on matchsticks - 'oooh Dick you're the best' they'd say, as my legs scorpion kick behind me, 'gosh Dick, it looks really hard, you should be able to climb 9a now', and then I show them the first hour of my fingerboarding DVD - including the bit where I do three back two one armers holding mum's Metro Vanden Plas with my free hand...."

I've seen it - this is impressive. I haven't seen a vanden plas in that condition for some time.

"I went to that 'Climbing Works' place again. It's ok like - i mean, the two corners are, but there's this whole punter section in the middle which is baffling. What training benefit is there from slabs? who climbs slabs? Yeah, Adam Long - and look what became of him. Anyway, I saw that Chris Webb-Parsons guy there. I think he works on the desk or something - he had that vacant stare only reception will give you. I think he's got a tattoo of a manatee on his paunch or something? I'm going to get one this lunchtime. Man, that guy has a hunchback almost as pronounced as mine. I went up to him, and I said - 'Hey Parsnip - how many tens have you done?' he didn't know what I was talking about, so i said 'You know, v10's - bet you've done at least three haven't you? which ones? is it the terrace? I've done the Terrace. Have you seen my video??, is it true you had to have four goes on Deliverance?', he started trying to walk away, but I rugby tackled him and tried to pull his trousers off to see if it was true that he had bulging muscular thighs and a tattoo of Pat Butcher on his thigh. It wasn't."

I think he must have been thrown out after that, as there was some sort of commotion there the other day. Anyway, he's got community service to do, so he had to cut it off after that. And anyway, those were the good bits. The rest was just agonising about wooden crimps.

dobbinhttp://firstname.lastname@example.com:blogger.com,1999:blog-8742296927637908200.post-77000319595591213212012-01-03T09:39:00.001+00:002012-01-03T09:39:43.150+00:00Sparkly Duds
I got this message down my internet pipe yesterday. It's from my old mate Dick Splinters : "Yesterday I went on the board. I felt pretty strong really. I think I was probably the strongest man in a vest since Keith Bradbury did Il Partner on that telly video of Creschironico. I've got massive guns. Then I didn't acheive my potential at some esoterica outdoors and finally I went rowing. It was brilliant." Great update there from Dick. Think he is bound to have a good year.

Once was the time when there would be almost daily updates on this blogroll. But then again once was the time when it didn't rain every day. There've been opportunities of course, dalliances and odd scuffles but nothing worth writing about. Then came Xmas, and with it annual leave, everyone off together and more time for everything. I managed to get out once. Once throughout the whole break! It wasn't lack of chance, it was just wet everywhere.

On that day I had heard that the great Jon Barton was going to be at Rivelin, and I thought if I could just get to meet the great technician, maybe I could push into the upper 5's. Ed and I cracked open our autograph pads and set off. Extreme mud scene on the approach. Cheeks and beaks wet, as was the thing to the left. Nik's wall also wet (i think this looks doable! that so many capable people have failed suggests it must be harder than it looks), then we went up to Faze action which is good (didn't do it). It's all a a bit wet really. The wall won't be a bit wet. The wall will be dry - and we can have a coffee. Only got a short time - want to make the most of it. But the sky is clear, and it feels like copping out going to the wall. Perhaps we should stay? yeah, but this is the last chance before xmas, and we both want it to count. If only Jon Barton was here - he'd know what to do.

Master Kush was wet when we got there, but drying out and probably climbable if you are really good at rock climbing. If only Jon Barton were here. We mince around dancing to Shakira's She Wolf (aroooo!) before heading off on a recommendation to look at Sparks. And there he is, the technical master - poised on the mats beside a complaining Dolly. In a mere hundred and fifty goes he has dispatched the complex and brilliant Sparks with an implausible 3D sequence straight out of the climbing works (literally). The day ends and we head off on our respective christmas holidays. dobbinhttp://firstname.lastname@example.com:blogger.com,1999:blog-8742296927637908200.post-70359603965222181922011-12-05T09:35:00.001+00:002011-12-05T09:35:47.959+00:00Roachford Blockwrestler
All through the Peak we cursed the Fletchers. There is no way it will be dry we agreed as the car aquaplaned down Froggat pass. Only fools would continue, but one fool had, and he insisted it was ok in the west and that roads and walls were dry. The cursing continued. As we passed the sign welcoming us to Staffordshire, it appeared there might be a chance.

Things looked green, but dryish. The deep dark crevices were no good, but exposed boulders were actually climbable. Plus, Mushin actually looked ok. Jordan and Naomi turned up, padded it out and did the problem, thus dispensing any chance of blaming conditions for the impending failure.

Good to see the Fletchers, good to be out with a full team for the first time in about a year. Biting wind at Mushin. Hard to stay warm. James does best, but that wasn't enough and none of us do it. I'm mithering to go to Tetris. James is bleating its a long way. It is, but it's worth it. Is this the best looking block of Gritstone? Jordan is there too, and has just done Columns.

I do Tetris stand thanks to wild but correct jordan beta, and then nearly do the sitter but run out of beans before elimanating all possible means of failure. Go to the winking man for a pint. Good day for the Buys.dobbinhttp://email@example.com:blogger.com,1999:blog-8742296927637908200.post-44142775330130859622011-11-22T09:21:00.000+00:002011-11-22T09:21:39.550+00:00The end of daysI think when we last spoke I was wittering on about lovely days in beautiful weather bimbling around and actually doing stuff. The point of that post was two fold - partly to illustrate that it shouldnt all be about trying really hard, and partly because it was a lovely afternoon, and I was looking forward to the autumn/winter and it being cold. Well, it hasn't been, and it isnt.

One of the intervening weekends Foley came through and stayed. In my head it was all about getting out and having another day like that, but it rained solidly, so a lot of tea was drunk and some wood grifters pulled down at a heaving Climbing Works. Ned went to font, and despite wet and warm conditions came back with two 8B's (narcotic direct, satan) but didnt get to go on Gecko (too warm). And I even made it to the county - on my own, and admidst fog like death cloud. Needless to say, it was rubbish. Fucking Rock climbing. Bah.

Anyway, I have seen the future, and I would like to introduce you to the Dobowonderlog patent pending grade decline graph :

See that EDD? know what that means? Estimated Due Date.... Yes, thats right reader - we are pregnant! Well, I'm not but you get the picture. The graph shows the end of casual nonchalance on the 7th April, from thereafter will be a slow increase back to a max of 3b in about 2014, before a gradual slide into paunchdom thereafter.

Do we know what we are having? no. Not going to find out either. They can be wrong anyway, and she thinks it would be nice to have a suprise. I actually would quite like to know, but I dont really mind. Anyway, here is the little blighter :

To go with that, i have traded in the chavstra and bought a dad mobile :

dobbinhttp://email@example.com:blogger.com,1999:blog-8742296927637908200.post-58798029804486806012011-10-27T10:03:00.001+01:002011-10-27T10:03:30.646+01:00The 7a dayDogged persistence may get you up projects, and whilst it feels great to do things you've worked hard for, its also important to have days without any prescribed agenda, days when you actually get to do some climbing and succeed without a battle. It's days like these when you remember what a fun experience climbing is, and when i find myself envying the casual punter, for whom this is the norm.

These days are those where the light is good, the shadows long and the leaves not yet mulch. Rustling around between boulders, bantering with friends and actually succeeding on things. Feels good to be good at something. Going for a pint afterwards, scranning down crisps and eyeing the pork scratchings guiltily over the bar. The stings of the shower on fresh grit rash. Sigh. Its a good feeling as you slump into the sofa, tired but happy at the end of this perfect gritstone autumn day.

People I have spoken to since seem incredulous that I could never have climbed at Rowtor, but I hadn't. Been for a walk, and been for lunch in the Druid, but never actually pulled on there. Armed with a selection of top three's from friends, I drove out to meet Dr Folog, Rupert, Sarah and mini-Rupert. The common factor in everyone's recommendation was yoghurt hypnotist, so that's where we started.

Its an amazing place, Rowtor. Carved in the late 80's by a travelling hippy commune, temporarily kettled there by angry middle class villagers. There are caves, armchairs and drainpipes all carved out of the stone. Its a cool place for a wander around if nothing else.

Yoghurt Hypnolog climbs a hanging rib beneath one such drainpipe, and whilst it climbs brilliantly, its a tiny bit elimanate as you could lurch to the drainpipe and avoid the difficulty. Can't remember the last time I actually did anything, so bouncing around excitedly having done it, I turn my attention to the off width on the right hand side. I am PWhiddy! I think to myself as I slide my leg into an overhead leg bar (bet they would have an actual phrase for such a move) and hang sans hands from it. Rupert is tired and cross, as he does all the hard bit of Yogalog and then fails on the mantle. James does the same. Baby Ru and Sarah play with leaves. I go to look at blood falls.

Collect original team and wander off to Quine, and who should peer through the undergrowth than king of the geometries himself - Ms Lisa Anderson. Actually in the Peak district, and apparently climbing! oh, how having a lady friend has tempered this once virile firebrand - once was the time when he would have been glued to the board, fingers thrust into the shallowest of mono pockets, his girth dangling limply beneath him, but not now, no. Another great problem, get close but don't actually do it, then Lee leaves us and we move to domes.

At first we have no concept of what is required, ultimately having to resort to looking at the picture in the guidebook, but that's no help, as it just has a picture of the Lord Wormsdale half way through the sitter. Eventually Rupert unlocks the sequence with what I can only describe as 'concept levitation'. I cannot compute the move at all, but eventually it yields to a wild slap. We try the sitter and conclude its very hard. The day is nearly over, we are all flagging and the dusk is drawing near. Nip to Short Sean's reachy roof, and the fatigue is clear in the honourable Mr Davies who looks beaten. We look briefly at that mantle thing which we all fail on, and finish on Blood Falls. Then the pub. Ahh the pub. Lovely. Its dark when we leave and I am late home. Great day. dobbinhttp://email@example.com:blogger.com,1999:blog-8742296927637908200.post-84691490332336114262011-10-21T16:21:00.001+01:002011-10-21T16:21:24.332+01:00Mecca Mucka
Time is only wasted if you think it so. If you look hard enough there's a positive spin to be put on any situation. You can choose to bang into metaphysical obstacles and resent them for being in your way, or you can seek teaching in your blunderings, learn from them and become all powerful.

Certainly, when one is as incompetent as I, it pays to have such a positive (some would say foolhardy) outlook on life. You could look at yesterdays attempts to rock climb as another failure on the current route of my desires, you could say that you knew in your heart that whilst you were strong enough, that that wasn't the problem and that your fitness would let you down. You could say that you knew you had a split, and that that crimp would open it again, or you could look at the whole experience as being a chance to climb with someone new, to work out the cheating kneebars don't work for once and for all, and to be outside in the nature.

Me and that lanky streak of piss Barrows went to the tor. When I got there he was already warmed up, so I put my harness on to give him a belay. The constant random prattling continued right until he stepped off the ground. Then I thought he was going to fall off the low wall - oh good, i thought, inwardly. I'm on full cruise control at that point, and could probably chalk and blow there. He won't do it before me. Jolly good. In a wild lurch he latches two tips on the very end of the gaston - oooh, he's off I think, but he isnt, he bumps in to the hold and carries on. Ah well, there's no way he can continue far after that start, and he doesn't. Gets a hand to the groove, fluffs it and stops. Fair enough.

The prattling starts again, then with scant rest he sets off to the top, and rinses it. I wouldn't say it looks smooth, but who cares, he's done it in two sections with next to no rest. Its fully on for him. I'm actually quite excited. When I see these things (like when Ned does hard stuff) I find them really inspiring. Its like a reminder that it is possible to succeed. Anyway, its my go, so - all about me. I feel good, strong, its cold - best ever conditions i have been on the route, and as I get the crimp beneath the groove I feel good - I could do this today I think, I hit the horn - badly. I try to move my feet, the horn is really bad and I have to ninja footkick onto a hold which is not my hold, dammit! i try to jump my foot up but it all spings off and I'm airborne. Oh well. I look down at my hands and realise I have split an old not-quite-healed split again. In the words of Ben Moon - 'Dammmit!, i'm not gonna do it'....

The baton gets handed back to Barrows. A tense quiet hangs in the air. He sets off, makes it through the bottom a bit more convincingly and is soon facing the bottom of the groove. He slaps in to the wrong place, but it's what he meant to do, and then he rolls over to the horn - interesting. Then, quickly, he scuffs his knee into the groove and starts to shake out. Little shit! with his route fitness and tenacity, he's gonna be able to get enough back to do it! the knee comes out and goes back into the higher one, still looking good. He clips, stabs his foot on a smear and moves to the crimp - got it! nice one, then cool as you like gets set in the top egyptian and reaches over. At this point, visions of Stu's video of Rich Heap coming flying off are in my head, and he does look like he's going to, I brace myself on belay, but no - he's done it, reaches into the flake, clips the chains and doesn't even stop! no, he goes for a look at the extension first! good effort!

The kneebars. Let's talk about the cheating low life knee bars - preserve of the weak. If I could get them to work i would do. The people who tell you they are cheating are either those who have invested their time and done it a harder way not using them, or who can't get them to work. I seem to be in the latter camp, so because i cant do them, I'm saying they're cheating. But i don't mean it really. You may say that that bolt scar wasn't there when it was first climbed, and maybe it wasn't, but the edge above was, and also - the horn was a shakeout jug. Just cos you did something a hard way - doesn't mean you get extra points, or that other ways are wrong.

Ok, so - with a split finger i wasn't going to be redpointing today, but to be honest, I knew i wasn't anyway. I know I haven't got the endurance of a sea lion and I knew I wasn't going to be able to do it yesterday. I use the session, and a happy and willing belayer, to work out the knee bars. I have gotten into the groove and clipped a few times, so if I could then wack in this knee bar and milk it, well - i could be in with a chance. The first lesson is this - there's another foothold for the first kneebar. This makes it much more viable for me. And, its not the bolt scar. SO, I get the first one and am still a bit under tension - its not good by any stretch, but its also the most comfortable I have felt there yet. I step out and up to the top one. Now this is good, and I can comfortably get to the undercut pocket and the crimp. But, I can't get out. Which suggests I am still doing it wrong. I struggle on and try to work it out, but never manage to exit the groove using kneebars. Finally, to finish I have a go from the base of the groove with my old sequence, and piss it. It feels well easy. I think I just need to stick to that and face up to the fitness issue.

We talk about training. He has done lots of it. I just go on the board. He tells me something I knew really, but that I needed telling. That if your training doesn't make you feel pumped like you do on your project, then its not the right training for your project. There are lots of different types of pump, and I haven't managed to replicate the powered out mecca feeling indoors yet. But, i will. Question is - have i time before it craps out? dobbinhttp://email@example.com:blogger.com,1999:blog-8742296927637908200.post-30537871825093413372011-10-18T09:12:00.001+01:002011-10-18T09:12:03.555+01:00Realisations
The problem with routes is that you get weak doing them. The problem with climbing boulders is that you loose fitness doing them. The problem with having a multitude of conflicting goals and aspirations is that you want everything at once - and you can't have it.

Ah but you can - you just need time, inclination and propensity for hard work. The more immeadiate problem is the lack of people willing to still go bolt clipping. I've been wanting to get back to Cheedale, but news of hold breakage and potential wetness, plus it not being my primary objective have led to the realisation that it will all still be there next year, and that those rare moments where someone can be coerced into bolt clipping should now be focussed on Mecca until it really is undeniably shitstone season.

I have to do Mecca before swamp donkey and before dylan gets back.

However, with noone keen - I went back to Anston at the weekend, and the difference in my ability between a hot day at the start of summer and now was apparent. This, whilst it shouldn't have been, was something of a revelation. I thought I had been climbing allright. Not brilliant, but allright - certainly I thought I had done ok on the comp wall of late, so why doesn't it transmute - and that, dear reader - is the realisation. The comp wall, whilst fun, is about making big moves on reasonable holds. Its about body strength, and whilst that's what you need for comps, it isn't for outdoor rock boulderising. The board is.

One person who seems to have leapt forwards is my celebrity belayer. There was once a time where I used to burn him off (happy days), then the next year we were about equal, then forever after he was ahead. At first a little, and now a lot. By god he is going well at the moment - there must be something in that moo moo shed. Ah well, surely I can bask in reflected glory as his training svengali agent and manager.

Talking of celebrities, there was a rich vein of them at the Pritchard/Van der Meulen wedding a couple of weeks ago. Doyle and I were beside ourselves that we would be in the same room as Ben and Jerry, but the actual overlap was just 20 minutes, and we failed to sieze the photo opportunity. Ever the stalker of the visiting wad, I have since made it my business to foist myself upon visiting wads Alex Puccio and Chris Webb Parsons, both of whom seem very nice.

dobbinhttp://firstname.lastname@example.com:blogger.com,1999:blog-8742296927637908200.post-9786198090220896222011-10-14T13:05:00.001+01:002011-10-14T13:05:55.862+01:00The coaching scam
I know a little bit about hearts - there's more than one chamber, and some ventricle things, and even something called an 'Aorta'. So, I think i shall open a heart surgery shop. You can pop in at any time of day or night, and I shall minister to you with an array of tools appropriated from the kitchen. Roll up, roll up! Get your cut price heart surgery here!

Don't think I should expect too many customers do you? It seems that if you do some hard stuff (or say you have) then you can set up a cosy little coaching business and earn upwards of £50 an hour to pass on your wisdom. Hang on, Hang on, let's play that back again, but ignoring the bit about lying, because that's another discussion entirely - I do some hard climbs, I'm a pretty good climber - well done me. I train myself to do them through endless hours on the board, campusing or whatever. Jolly good, SO, I must know a bit about training right? Not necessarily, no. You know what got YOU where YOU are and what made you able to do those climbs, but this doesn't mean you have studied sports science, understand physiology and can tailor training to another person. For the same reason copying training from PersonA wont make PersonB fit and strong.

Its quite a dangerous precedent to set saying that anyone can deliver coaching, I mean - what about liability - could it be argued that bad coaching could be responsible for injuring a coachee? A coach doesnt have to be an 8B+ megawad, success alone does not a good climber make - over the years there have been many examples of people doing hard things through sheer bloody mindedness, and this whilst in some ways admirable does not a good climber make them. What I am saying, and what I want you to do potential coachee is look beyond first appearances and really think about who you are having coach you and understand why you think they will be able to help you be better than you are now.

Just like all doctors dont need to be rippling adonis', so your coach doesnt need to have done harder climbs than you, but question what it is they can give you - why are they going to be able to help you be a better climber? In my head coaching should either come from someone who climbs beautifully and can explain themselves (i.e. is articulate), or who has studied and is going to help you build method into your training. dobbinhttp://firstname.lastname@example.com

subset: commoncrawl


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Take-Two Interactive Software has released its financial results, and the company did very well in its second fiscal quarter (Q2), reporting better-than-expected earnings.
Driven largely by top performers Grand Theft Auto V, NBA 2K15, and Borderlands 2, Take-Two posted a non-GAAP net revenue of $135.4 million USD. That number is down from the same period in the year previous, when the company posted net revenues of $1.27 billion USD. That number was helped in large part due to the launch of Grand Theft Auto V, which has sold over 34 million copies since release.
Take-Two CEO Strauss Zelnick said that the financial results were driven by "strong catalog sales and continued growth in digitally-delivered revenue from recurrent consumer spending." Recurrent consumer spending was up 45% year-over-year, with games from their "deep catalog" like NBA 2K14 and Borderlands 2 cited as driving revenue. This category includes virtual currency, DLC, and online games.
As a result of the strong numbers Take-Two posted today, it has increased its outlook for the fiscal year 2015, citing strong current business trends and a "positive outlook for its upcoming games," with strong expectations of revenue from Grand Theft Auto Online, NBA 2K15, and Borderlands: The Pre-Sequel.
Take-Two projects a non-GAAP revenue for the next quarter to range from $745 to $760 million USD.
All the numbers discussed by Take-Two were non-GAAP, an alternate form of financial reporting from GAAP, which stands for "Generally Accepted Accounting Practices." Non-GAAP numbers are often reported because many believe the numbers more accurately represent a company's performance.
Seth Macy is a freelance writer who just wants to be your friend. Follow him on Twitter @sethmacy, and MyIGN at sethgmacy.


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Enjoy Delightful Bowser, 15 minutes from Qualicum Beach. Walk the endless beach, seconds away, play the many nearby top rated golf courses, explore Horne Lake Caves, shop at wonderful Coombes, or mountain bike/hike at spectacular Mount Washington.
Make a day of it and visit world famous Long Beach, visit the expansive beach at Rathtrevor Provincial Park.Enjoy the warm waters of Spider Lake, 15 minutes away, hike at stunning Little Qualicum Falls or Englishman River falls.
Keywords: Vancouver Island, Qualicum, Bowser, Seaside, Oceanview,


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Fresh Thyme River Forest and Oak Park Grand Opening
River Forest
This event occurred in the past.
Map | Find Parking
The store opens on June 21 at 7 a.m. The first 250 shoppers, aged 18 or older, in line on Wednesday morning receive a free bag of healthy groceries. This store focused on healthy and organic products and groceries holds a ribbon-cutting ceremony with prominent city officials at 3:45 p.m. on Tuesday, June 20, the day before.


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"I envision a future, where all of us will have access to teaching assistants like Jill Watson, anytime, anywhere, for any task. I envision a future, in which education will be accessible to all. But teaching and learning will also be personal and fun." Ashok Goel
Jill Watson mentioned in the media.
In a near future state, we can get to a 1:1 student and teacher ratio. Something that is powered by a combination of the following:
I think, 1:1 student and teacher ratio is 7 to 10 years out.
In the interim, MOOCs can help. MOOCs have come a long way since the early days of OpenCourseware (MIT). Today you get quality content from virtually all the leading platforms. From Udacity to Coursera, Khan Academy to Udemy.
However, the engagement and completion rate for MOOCs has been an issue. And I think that these ratios would be much higher if there was:
Oculus Rift | Education
Technology in the classroom will always have my vote. I have always been a big believer in making use of employing just the right amount of tech in the classrooms. In the past, some of these thoughts have taken the shape and form of actual blog-posts. link, link, link and link.
In the words of Thomas Friedman 'It should not be about time spent (in the classroom) but more about stuff learned". Listening to a teacher for hours on end, droning on about any given topic is a very inefficient mechanism for imparting education. Something that I have blogged about.
Now there has been a lot of good innovation, specifically when it comes to the medium. The medium relating to how education is imparted, focusing on the emergence of MOOCs. But when it comes to delivering the 'concepts', the synthesis of what information is supposed to represent. That problem has been addressed in bits and pieces, as we can only innovative so much within a medium that is confined to text/audio/video.
Here, virtual reality is a game changing product. It will give students of all types the ability to pickup and absorb the knowledge in a much richer format. For example: reading something vs actually performing the task has a completely different impact on your cognitive cycles. The chances that you will forget something that you read are pretty high. In retrospect, your brain forms neural pathways and registers how you go about acquiring any new skills. This is precisely the reason why it is next to impossible to forget a skill, like riding a bike.
Also, there are so many other benefits when it comes to leveraging VR for education. No limitations when it comes to physical space, unlimited chances for trial and error without any harmful effects in the physical world, the ability for collaborating with others from any given part of the world e.t.c. Also, since all the interactions are occurring in the digital world, these interactions and the sum total of the outcomes can be measured and aggregated in greater details. This will be particularly beneficial, when it comes to the issue of jobs, skills training and eventually in getting rid of the job/skills mismatch.
Today I decided to Google the term 'Oculus for education' and when you click on the video section on Google, then this is one of the first videos that comes up (below).
This makes me really happy. This can transform education as we know it, entire societies and the world. But why limit it to just the education industry. Virtual reality can transform the world.
What a great invention! Great work by Palmer Luckey (in particular) and the folks at Oculus Rift.
Great product by Microsoft. In fact, back when I was employed at BlackBerry. I had shared the exact same idea with them.
The goal for Microsoft is to:
David Bowie is not happy. And neither am I. Education needs to be more interactive. Technology can make it happen.
Classroom re-imagined
Originally published on March 7, 2013
If it was up to me to re-invent the classroom of the future. Then:
Seems like the audience were more receptive to a blog-post/idea such as the one highlighted above.
Update September 2013
I just noticed this on Stanford University's Facebook page. Stanford's campus in Bangalore, India. hmm
Update September 15, 2014
Teachers:I've had some time to think about the pivotal role that teachers play. I think, if anything the world needs more teachers. That being said, I think that the role that a teacher would play. That role needs to get diversified and take different forms. I think that the fundamental role of a teacher should be to:
a) Encourage learning
b) Answer questions when a student gets stuck.
This can be accomplished by virtue of curating content that is readily available (online) and in different formats. So the students then have the ability to absorb the content as they deem fit.
December 2016


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OK, I'm already having trouble with daily blogging. What can I say? I'm a mom of 2, work part-time and am new to trying to blog daily. *sigh*
For our share of the CSA pickup, we received:
Cucumbers (2)
Lemon cucumbers (1)
Green bell peppers (1-2)
Eggplant (1)
Onions (1-2)
Hot peppers (don't know names, but one looks like a banana pepper and Aaron swears it isn't hot?) - 2
Brazilian eggplant (teeny tiny striped things that look like peppers. I have no idea what to do with them) - 3
Kale (yay! more curry!!) - 1 bunch
Arugula - 1 bunch
Apples (6, but we have a TON from our own picking on Rosh HaShanah)
Peaches (3, I think?)
Bartlett Pears (YUM! 2, I think?)
Butternut squash - 1 to be split with neighbor
Sunshine squash - 1 to be split with neighbor
Watermelon - 1 to be split with neighbor
I'm really excited to see squash because it means even more new recipes. I was thrilled to get to try the curried kale again and delighted to add to our apple stash. Have I mentioned that we have boatloads of apples? We picked a whole bushel! Since picking that bushel, I've made 9 quarts of applesauce (8 in our chest freezer and 1 for immediate consumption) and 2 loaves of apple bread without nuts so that I can send it with Caleb for his lunches at preschool. I'm figuring on a few apple crisps or cobblers (same dish really, just different topping) and maybe a few more loaves of bread as well as yet more applesauce. I think I want another 8 quarts of sauce, but I'll have to count apples. :) Crisp takes about 5-6 apples; 1 quart of applesauce takes about 8-9 apples; bread only needs 1 apple per loaf. The great thing about making apple recipes is that my kids will eat them, and I don't have to worry that they might be eating total junk.
I'll post again tomorrow with more updates on eggplant and what I do for nights when I have to be out at dinner time!


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Parent Post
Home decoration can be taken to a new height by hanging foyer chandeliers. Any person can feel the difference if the entrance of the house is decorated with a beautiful foyer chandelier. Foyer lighting can brighten the entire room décor. Though using this lighting fixture has started only a few decades back, nowadays, every modern designer creates unique interior décor by using foyer chandeliers.
Pastel or softer colors look better in flat paint. Chocolate brown or very dark colors, I think look better with a little shine to them. The satin or semi finish will keep them from looking dreary by reflecting light around the room. Painting is the most cost effective way to give your room lots of impact. You may want to select a striking wallpaper pattern in keeping with the color scheme of the rest of the home. Stripes are great for adding volume and height.
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If you'd like to read a proper review of what it's like to see the Minor Leagues perform at the Taste of Cincinnati, please take a look at the post I wrote last year. I think all I'm going to do this time around is post a video of Sailor Babo dancing along to a song called "Travel Agent" at this year's show.
I might add this year's full setlist in here later, but that's all for now:
Setlist: Elsewhere/Good Boys/The Pestilence is Coming/"it's your lucky day…says the voice on the phone…"/You Can't Go Home/"4th inning…that was only the beginning…"/A Chance Encounter (In Cincinnati Tonight)/Travel Agent/Social Club/Run Another Red Light/The World is Mine/French Canadia


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Earlier this week, I forget why, I was wandering around the internet looking for something (as you do) when my eye lighted upon an editorial in The Progress Report.
I'd never come across the Progress Report before so I had a good look round. "Interesting", as Sir Humphrey Appleby might say.
The editorial focussed upon ethical businesses and on one proposal in particular: "On being Ethically Certified". I have to say, I read it, groaned, held my head in my hands, and (as techno-gunslingers might say) prepared to blog.
Ethical Certification
In brief, the editorial proposes all business executives should be ethically certified. The mechanism would be as follows:
A board comprising
ethicists in the fields of philosophy, economics, political science, and business
would provide
a basic course in ethics and specialty courses in the ethics of business, accounting, marketing, government, law, construction, religion, engineering, and science.
To gain certification a candidate would have to pass
a written essay exam and an oral exam … for the basic course and for one or more specialty courses
On passing (and gaining certification!) the candidate would
provide a bond of $10,000 to the board [which could be paid in instalments]
If there are any complaints about the individual, the board would investigate and
if they found an ethical violation, the holder would lose the $10,000, and his name would be entered into a list on a web site of those whose certification has become void
What's more,
at the age of 65, the bond would convert to an annuity (a guaranteed lifetime income). If the holder died before the age of 65, the funds would be transferred to a beneficiary
… which is an interesting, and refreshing, take on bonds.
Easy Targets
I wouldn't have a problem with this proposal, if it wasn't for the fact that this emphasis upon ethics is becoming more and more prevalent across the sustainability business community. This is not a new point of view .. see Please! No More Ethical Businesses.
When I wrote that post, a lot of people disagreed with me, saying that ethics should come into business management and that sustainability is nothing more than a branch of ethics.
I still disagree. Sustainability has nothing to do with ethics. Sustainability is all about resource management and the recognition that society (including business) relies upon a finite supply of basic raw materials, from the air we breath to employee goodwill.
Ethics, on the other hand, is all about one's personal and social moral compass, the decisions we make day-to-day, week-to-week and year-to-year.
There is no empirical ethical business .. that is nothing more than the belief in social and moral imperialism. Ethics can and should be allowed to change day-to-day … to say otherwise is to imply that we do not learn from our experiences.
Ethical Certification In Balance
I have to emphasise that the Progress Review editorial was focussed upon individuals. It embraces businessmen, but its main intent is to propose that …
candidates for government offices, for example, could become ethically certified. Executives of companies could also be ethically certified. Maybe some religious leaders might also seek ethical certification … [people want] their doctors, accountants, lawyers, and construction contractors to be ethically certified. People would want to buy services and products from ethically certified producers. Perhaps people getting married would want their spouse to be ethically certified!
This is where the "ethically correct" agenda is leading. The Progress Review editorial continues:
there is ethically certified timber that avoids wood from unsustainable logging. Several organizations, such as the Rainforest Alliance, ethically certify coffee and other goods. There are products such as cocoa that are certified as "ethically responsible" and "fair trade certified." But I know of no organization that provides ethical certification for persons.
This a) confuses ethically correct actions with sustainable actions, and b) suggests that what is right for a corporation is right for an individual.
PLEASE, No More Ethical Businesses
So once again I say: PLEASE, No More Ethical Businesses. Ethics should not be a stricture or commandment against which businesses can measure themselves. I choose where to buy my food because of my beliefs, but just because I champion organic food does mean to say it's wrong that I sometimes buy non-organic food because it has less food miles.
This is what is meant by a free market: putting all the options on the shelf and allowing the consumer to decide. The moment you bring ethics into the equation you're making a moral decision for the consumer .. and if you believe in a consumer based society, you have to see that that is (ahem) ethically wrong.
Picture Credit: Gunslinger Art by planetc1 under Creative Commons Attribution Share Alike Licence. Trimmed by Chris Milton.
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- Seven Best Practices for Sustainability Websites | Part 1/2 - February 14, 2013