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Classic Accessories 80-212-301001-00 PolyPro I Folding Camping Trailer Cover, Model 0
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REVIEW: He was the world's most wanted man, and for a decade, he eluded capture, until a brave team of Navy SEALs broke into his expensive Pakistan compound and sent him to whatever judgment awaits mass murderers.
Osama bin Laden's death on May 2, 2011 is the topic of Kathryn Bigelow's upcoming movie, aptly dubbed "Zero Dark Thirty," for the hour at which the raid took place.
Bin Laden himself (played by English actor Ricky Sekhon) is never seen in the film's new trailer, but that's hardly necessary. This isn't a film about him, but about the mission, fraught with danger and uncertainty.
"If you thought there was some working group coming to the rescue, then I want you to know that you're wrong," a leader grimly tells the team. "This is it. There's nobody else hidden away on some other floor. There is just us, and we are failing."
It doesn't get better for the SEALs later on, when a source with knowledge of bin Laden tells them, "You will never find him. He is one of the disappeared ones."
And the trailer just teases the audience with the scene everyone wants to see, the reenactment of the raid itself, showing armed SEALs quietly making their way towards the compound, eerily lit by the glowing green of night-vision glasses.
Kyle Chandler, Jessica Chastain, Jason Clarke and Joel Edgerton are among the stars. Bigelow won the best director Oscar for her 2009 film "The Hurt Locker," the first woman to ever win that honor. Screenwriter Mark Boal, who won a writing Oscar for "Hurt Locker," has teamed with Bigelow again on this film.
"Zero Dark Thirty" hits theaters Dec. 19.
The new trailer is only available on Apple.com, but we have embedded the earlier teaser trailer for the film above.
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Diced yellow squash, zucchini, and red bell pepper are tossed with tart grapes, toasted pine nuts, fresh mint, and a citrus-cumin dressing.
Dicing raw zucchini and yellow squash for a salad is a fast way to use up these plentiful summer vegetables. Toss them with some red bell pepper, grapes, pine nuts, chopped mint, and a Moroccan-inspired dressing to round out this healthy dish.... Read More
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Wordperhect Hand-drawn, organ interactive based on a word processor. Not…
Museum Box
Museum Box
Welcome to Museum Box, This site provides the tools for you to build up an argument or description of an event, person or historical period by placing items in a virtual box. What items, for example, would you put in a box to describe your life; the life of a Victorian Servant or Roman soldier; or to show that slavery was wrong and unnecessary? You can display anything from a text file to a movie. You can also view and comment on the museum boxes submitted by others.


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Do it Yourself. We don't know why we have this out here. You should just buy stuff from us. But what da' heck. Here you go for all you DIY'ers.
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Watch for an Apple Sneak Attack on Living Room Gaming
Jun 20, 2013 5:00 AM PT
Despite all the cool updates Apple promised to bring the world at its Worldwide Developers Conference -- iOS 7, OS X Mavericks, a new Mac Pro -- the most tantalizing new possibility wasn't described at all: games. Gaming. An Apple-made gaming console. A new vision for living room gaming delivered via home WiFi and an Apple TV. Since Apple wasn't out there on the stage talking about this specifically, why bother diving into the vaporous chance of a new class of Apple living room product now?
Two reasons: One, the lackluster and downright silly Anki Drive demonstration; and two, Apple released to its developer partners a new game controller framework with instructions and stipulations for building a physical game controller. If you're an Apple developer, you can access the document here.
These two essentially isolated events could mean everything or nothing, but this I know: If I were Microsoft or Sony trying to launch a snazzy and expensive new game console late this year before the holiday season, the thing I'd fear most is any Apple product that puts a physical gamepad in the hands of kids -- and worse yet, lets them gather around an HDTV in the living room.
What's Going On in Front of the Couch
There is so much going on right now in the space between your couch and your HDTV that it's hard to find a place to start. First, let's describe the landscape. Microsoft and Sony produce the popular Xbox 360 and PS3 dedicated gaming consoles.
Microsoft has been transforming its 360 console from a game-playing device into a television, movie, and music playing set-top box. If it weren't so clunky and hampered by Microsoft interface design and desperate attempts to squeeze revenue through its disingenuous Xbox Live system, it would be used by everyone in the household instead of Minecraft-playing tweeners.
Sony does better in international markets than in the U.S., where the Xbox 360 reigns, but the Sony ecosystem lacks vision and vitality. Its core reputation starts and ends with smart, dedicated console gamers.
Both companies will launch their next-generation powerhouse gaming consoles late this year in time for holiday sales.
Microsoft's Xbox One starts at US$499 and includes a mandatory Kinect so your gaming console can watch you move and speak, see your skin flush with excitement or fear, and generally give you a futuristic way to interact with your TV viewing and game playing. Sounds cool until you realize you have to trust Microsoft, which is hard to do.
Have you ever tried to disengage a credit card from your Xbox Live account without entering in a new credit card? There's a reason Microsoft doesn't make this easy, and it isn't a technical challenge a multibillion dollar corporation can't figure out. Oh, and by the way, your Xbox One requires an always- on Internet connection. If you lose your Internet connection for more than 24 hours, no more game playing for you. And used game sales? Ha ha. The hoops a player will have to jump through are many, small in diameter, and on fire.
Microsoft does have Xbox Live, which it is constantly enhancing with new apps and services, including SmartGlass that extends the Xbox Live world to and from smartphone and tablet screens. If you're cool with constantly sending money to Microsoft, the Xbox world will let you play all day and night.
Sony, on the other hand, isn't trying to control your entire world, won't impose wild DRM restrictions on pre-owned games, doesn't force the PS4 to call home or threaten to deactivate, costs $100 less ($399), and has a good library of titles to play. The problem with Sony is that it's next-generation console is a predictable, safe, old-school solution with a better haircut and faster running shoes.
Back to Apple
Most of the Apple TV hoopla has been centered on movies and TV shows, on figuring out how to replace cable and satellite television with something better, in addition to the notion that Apple could build a prettier big-screen HDTV worthy of a placing upon a pedestal of worship.
I've got problems with that.
First, I doubt Apple can shake loose the TV and movie industry from their traditional delivery models -- at least, not any time soon. There's just too much money tied up in broadcast television, hundreds of cable channels and commercials. Second, I doubt Apple can produce an HDTV that's price competitive. So, instead of a hobby, Apple would be heading toward an expensive hobby.
Unless it figures out living room gaming.
The Sneaky Backside Beatdown
Apple's iOS has already proven itself to be a freakishly popular gaming system, both due to its touch controls and despite them. The iOS gaming library is fantastically huge and has titles for every age group -- from toddlers learning ABCs to grandmothers playing Words with Friends. There are action titles, dark and scary thinker games, and even a version of Minecraft, which is both a travesty as well as a triumph of creative purity.
Apple has hundreds of thousands of developers and Apple has millions of screens.
The only thing Apple really needs is the connective glue -- the method for taking iPad, iPod touch, and iPhone games and screens and applying them to the land of dark carpeted basements.
There are multiple ways this could happen, and all of them would take a bite out the Xbox One and PS4.
First, Apple could beef up its Apple TV with a bigger processor and storage capabilities, letting customers buy and store games directly on the Apple TV. Personally, I'd like to see this, even at a price point approaching $499. The Apple TV is amazingly simple but woefully underpowered when it's time to explore the living room.
Plus, it needs a controller. Of course, you don't have to use the cute little aluminum remote control -- you can use an app on your iPad or iPhone. Nice. Even today, you can AirPlay games from your little iPhone to your HDTV via an Apple TV. The problem? Tactile feedback. You don't have it with a touchscreen. What else? The point. Why look at a big screen TV if you need to touch and tap your way along while navigating a screen to play many iOS games? Why not just look at the bright little screen?
A smarter Apple TV could connect multiple players, locally or remotely, to an Apple TV screen for new forms of collaborative game play.
Even simpler than this would be creating a set of controllers -- game pads -- that would let a gamer slip either an iPad or iPod into the controller and dive into a fast-paced action adventure using tactile controls. For an iPad, having a wireless traditional-style controller gamepad would permit you to easily play a game from your Mac's screen. . . or while watching an iPad on a stand. . . or while AirPlaying the iPad screen to your HDTV.
If you're following all this, it means the Apple TV doesn't have to be the hardware processing brains of the gaming system -- your iPhone or iPad or Mac could be the processor, which is, when you think about it, the ultimate console gaming sneak attack. Boom. New rules for gaming in the living room.
The cost of entry would be slow and incremental, and it's something inherently portable. Something that parents intuitively understand because they're already packing iPhones.
Once Apple has the mindshare, the magic of the Apple ecosystem will do the rest. The consoles will collect dust.
Why do I think this is moving from possible to likely?
For starters, Apple CEO Tim Cook shared the stage with Anki, which showed off a next-generation artificial intelligence game system where little cars drove themselves. . . and the brains were locked up in iOS devices. The prototype game was stupid, expensive, and more of an exercise in AI and robotics than anything any large number of people would ever buy. Still, Cook let them have the stage for a reason.
Then there are the APIs and specifications for third-party controllers. If Apple provides a consistent format for high-quality, simple-to-use controllers that will let you run iOS apps and games and enjoy them on your HDTV, the living room landscape will never look the same.


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There are many benefits to adding a second hard drive to your laptop such as improved speeds, greater storage space, and less heartache when installing new software. Use this guide to install one using our optical bay hard drive enclosure.
Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:
Three 13.5 mm (14.1 mm) Phillips screws.
Seven 3 mm Phillips screws.
Step 1 (technically step 9 - replacing the base plate) Apparently one of my screws was a micron or two smaller than the others. This screw belongs to the hole above the optical drive, which is also apparently a couple of microns smaller than the others. It took seven attempts to figure which screw had originally been in that hole; all the other screws were too large, but fitted perfectly everywhere else.
Bizarre much?
It might be a matter of how the screws are driven in, and not that they're slightly different sizes. When I reassembled my MacBook, a couple of the screws, including the one over the optical drive you mention, were hard to drive in and jutted up a little bit instead of sitting entirely flush. Swapping screws didn't help. The solution was to unscrew them and drive them in at a bit of an angle - perpendicular to the slightly curved surface of the back plate where the screw holes were, instead of fully vertical with respect to the ground the Macbook is sitting on. Doing it that way, the screws were easier to drive in and they all ended up flush in their holes. Didn't matter which screws they were. (I swapped a few around just to check after reading this.)
I had no such screw issues. Either there are differences in manufacturing lots or I just got incredibly lucky during reassembly!
xtophr -
I discovered a great way of organizing the screws. I used an ice cube tray and added the screws in order, keeping the different kinds together. So when it came to reversing the steps, the screw order was an added control step to returning everything in its place.
Great advise! Love it! :)
Ririds -
I used to do that and that worked really great until I bumped it by accident and the entire tray went on the rug! I spent the next day sorting things out.
Now I use these:
The lower ones 50 to a package. I mark them w/ blue tape. Often if it's part like the fans, or the optical drive I'll tape the screws into/near the holes where they belong. I did this a lot especially w/ the bottom screws from MBPs until I'd done so many I knew exactly where the longer ones went.
I wrapped the screws in a piece of blue masking tape and wrote the number on the little pouch I made. Then I stuck the blue tape pouches on the underside of the case bottom in order.
Roscoe -
I take double-sided tape, put that on a piece of paper, stick the crews to that, and label them.
Best I've found is a bead sorting tray. They're like $5 at Wal-Mart and they have a lid that seals up and won't let them jump between containers.
I take a sheet of paper, pierce the screws through the paper, take a pen and box the screws and write out what step they belong to.
Nils -
Actually the four screws on the bottom were not threaded all the way up. I didn't check to see if the thread gauge was the same on them, but it wasn't until I had about four screws out (I didn't take them out in the order that the bottom all came out first) that I noticed a difference. I then took out the rest of the bottom ones to see if they matched the two that were already out that weren't threaded to the top. They did. So I went under the assumption that those were all bottom screws and when I put it back together everything went fine with no resistance.
So there are three types of screws: Four for the bottom, three long ones as indicated and three others that might be slightly smaller than the bottom ones.
Although its more than a year since your contribution, I thought you might be amused to know that it is not just that the screws go in more easily when at an angle, Apple actually drilled and tapped the holes at a 15% angle. I too had tried to drive them in straight. An Apple "genius" - I was in for something else - clarified the design for me. It was done so that the screws lay flush on the angled part of the lower case. Nice design, but since Apple encourages DIY memory and drive changes, they could have mentioned this little ... trap.
H Stahl -
Intel Core i7, 2,2 GHz, RAM 16 GB
Mountain Lion
May someone help me?
I have installed the second drive with ssd 840 evo, but when I try to copy the file from the new drive to the main hd this in not allowed (errore -36)
To my knowledge you can't transfer a single file more than 4gb. I advise compressing to a bunch of rars to split the file size and moving them individually
Hey everyone, here's the very best way to PERFECTLY organize your screws AND keep track of the order of the procedure: Get a piece of plain corrugated cardboard and a pen (I like using a Sharpie). For EACH step of the disassembly, draw a simple diagram of the layout of the computer on the piece of cardboard, with dots or Xs where the screws are located. Right after you remove each screw from the computer, poke a hole in the cardboard in its corresponding diagram position with your screwdriver and place the screw in that hole. If there are other non-screw related parts to be removed, you can add notes below each step diagram to remind you of where they go or how they should be placed. This cardboard method is great not only because your screws will not go flying or get mixed up by accident if bumped, but each screw goes EXACTLY back where it came from and you can keep the cardboard as a template for future use if necessary!
- zerø K
These instructions worked great for me. I ordered a replacement battery from Key Power (on Amazon) for my 15" Macbook Pro (mid-2010). Cost was $74 shipped.
Battery came with 3 different screwdrivers to help with installation. I just needed the one size though, since my 2010 seemed to use all the same size screws.
During re-assembling (put the screws back in), it is important to note that the 3mm threaded holes are not completely vertical, but bent a little bit such that the hole direction is rectangular to the tapered surface. The force of the screwdriver must point towards the direction of the hole. Otherwise the screw gets jammed
There is a FOOLPROOF WAY TO ORGANIZE ALL SCREWS and other parts removed.
Print the repair guide.
Yes, the actual photo of the bottom of the laptop with the circles around the screws.
When you remove the screw, tape it to the photograph.
You will tape the screw to the exact location that you just removed it from.
Same thing with any part you remove.
Thanks Splash!!! I used your suggested method, and it was perfect: kept all my screws, and i was able to, very easily, put them back in their correct place. I greatly appreciated your feedback. Thank you for sharing!!
Thank you!!! This worked fabulously - even the I.T. people at my workplace were excited as they never thought to do that before. Replacing the battery took about 10 minutes!
Worked like a charm! Took less than 20 minutes.
It's Oct. 2015, and the fan cost me about $10. it was the same brand/model...
1- no T6 screwdriver- was careful using needle nose players to loosen 2 screws protruding up, then use a small phillips to push real hard into the T6 slots, SLOWLY turn , also used a small flat head screwdriver (for eye glass repair) was able to grab thread on T6's, made a small mark with screw driver across the top so I could see when it started to turn.
2- no spudger -made one; cut a little strip 1/2" x 1 1/2" of plastic. couldn't get it to slide under plug, there's an edge where plug fits. so lifted old fan out, pulled upward on the plug it popped right out with very little effort. I used my home made spudger to push the new plug into place.
3- download free "Macs Fan Control" This is how I was alerted to the fan not working in the first place. Program shows temperature of all key components in the computer.
cheers- Durango CO!
Dgodrummer - 回复
Watch the video first, read the entire tutorial and all the comments before you start, and spread a white towel on the floor so you can find screws when you drop them. Watch this first -- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qiBxhA29e...
The link above is no longer available.
Please be aware that you CAN do this replacement with MUCH LESS work. I successfully replaced a trackpad (TP) in this model WITHOUT removing a lot of what is described here. I think i mainly removed the logic board (LB) anchor screws along the TP side and was then able to lever up the LB just enough to get the cable unplugged and snaked out. Followed the reverse and done. Maybe not for all, but it worked for me. // Re screws: i print out the images here of the multi-screws locations and then tape the screws in place on the print-out.
Is it necessary to ground oneself to prevent static damage to logic board, etc. when replacing the speakers?
If so, what is the best way to do this?
Do you wear wrist strap designed for this purpose? To what metal object do you attach the clip and wire? I'm assuming the aluminum case isn't going to work.
I will be buying a battery from you and using your instructions. I just installed a new CD/DVD using your instructions and 1) I feel like I owe you something and 2) Although more expensive, I have the confidence your battery will work. My current battery is the original with 1399 cycles in 7.2 yrs. A tech buddy had bought me a replacement and I installed it. I had just installed a new OS and the kernel_task went going nuts, using 90% of the CPU. Hours on the phone with Apple did not resolve the issue. On a whim, I put the old battery back in and Voila! But I cannot risk my battery swelling and going south on me. I am also going to buy your installation tools. Yeah, I already have them. But you can never have enough tools…or beer. And you don't sell beer.
Pete Banks - 回复
How did that work out if you don't mind me asking? I'm a bit nervous and been on the fence for a while. Mine isn't swollen but it's dying after an hour which is problematic.
Shawn -
The instructions say that I am removing PH00 screws. I found that my MBP, mid '12, Retina has pentalobe screws instead!
This laptop definitely originally shipped with Phillips screws—but, Apple has been known to replace Phillips screws with pentalobes when one of their devices is brought in for service. Sorry for the rude surprise! Fortunately the correct driver is easy to find nowadays. [Blatant self-promotion alert!] If you support free repair manuals, consider picking one up from iFixit. Good luck!
Me, too, and it's plausible that this machine has been serviced by Apple in the past, replacing the screws as Jeff Suovanen suggests.
iFixit shipped a pentalobe bit with the kit, but it's too large for the actual screws, so it looks like I now need to get another bit. But what size?
Jeff's link is to a driver with a P5 bit, and that page links to a P2 screwdriver, but since I don't know what size I actually need (and I don't have a micrometer to hand) I'm reluctant to buy two on spec.
(The bit in the kit appears to be a P6, so I'm inclined to order a P5 and see what happens)
To keep track of screws, I used the suggestions above by taping a photo of the lower case to a piece of corrugated cardboard and inserting/taping the screws in place. Also, as some have noted, the screws go back in at a slight angle; they are angled toward the center of the unit.
I have the kit for replacing a 4th gen iPod battery and the screwdrivers look like the same spec – do the plastic opening tools work as a spudger?
If your vision, like mine, is getting too fuzzy to be able to distinguish between a tiny Phillips screwdriver and a tiny Tri screwdriver, there's an easy way. With a Phillips (or a Pozidrive) you can get two opposite wings to reflect the light from a lamp or window straight towards your eye at the same time. With a Tri (or Penta) you can only get one wing to reflect at a time, however much you twiddle it.
There's a very easy way to avoid cross-threading a screw thread, any size.
Put the screw into its hole and start by turning it gently, slowly BACKWARDS. When you hear a little "Click!" sound, the male thread has just passed the opening in the female thread and is in exactly the right position to enter into it correctly when you start to turn in the correct forward direction.
Remember, all drivers except hex (Allen key) and TorX need pressure to avoid slipping out and damaging the head. So even when you want to turn it in with LOW moment/torque, keep the CONTACT PRESSURE high.
After reading this page on iFixit several times, I just could not face all the work of replacing the Logic Boards on two MacBookPro 2011s even if I was prepared to pay approx 400 USD (which I wasn't). Then I read the reviews of a couple of folks who'd stripped down their machines and put their logic boards in the oven and, it worked! I wondered, if I just used my new Steinel Hot Air Tool (heat gun in my language) recently delivered from iFixit, on the logic board in-situ, without removing it? So I removed the battery, hard drive, and RAM and unplugged all the leads I could see WITHOUT removing anything else physically. Then using the 500 degrees set on the gun (setting 2) I 'played' the gun over the logic board for about 60 seconds on machine one with the restart problem (plus latterly, not completing start-up). Long story short… it worked! I spent a long time getting the s/w to load, but the commentary is too short to let me relate that part… ping me if I can help you do the same! email@example.com
Using both hands, lift the lower case near the vent to pop it off two clips securing it to the upper case.
Remove the lower case and set it aside.
After pulling out the lower case and put it back on, the lower case doesn't stick well with the left clip. What should i do now?
16 GB is the max
Use the edge of a spudger to pry the battery connector upwards from its socket on the logic board.
At first sight I was confused when I read the description at this step, 'cause it seemed that disconnecting the battery connector was optional, in order to eliminate static discharge. While it's a helpful advice in other circumstances (as mentioned as an example changing hard drives), when changing the battery it is not an option - you have to disconnect the battery connector.
It would have been better to mention the optional disconnecting recommendation in a side-note.
Other than that, an excellent guide!
the fact that this step is optional can not be stressed enough. i tried disconnecting the battery and in the process it short circuited which now leaves me with an even more expensive problem than i had before when i just wanted to change hard drives (at least the new hard drive works fine..)
the hard drive changing worked though.
Excellent guide, it was as easy as a breeze to replace my battery. I can't believe I nearly followed Apple in their saying that this part was not user replaceable. Great job for this description, and many thanks. iFixIt is THE reference for Mac owners.
So - I have a weird comment about this. I wanted to make sure that I was getting the right model - so I opened up my laptop and then thought "well, why not just remove the battery while i'm in here, it's shot anyway". Though, I forgot about the stupid screws (Apple really did us over on that one!). Though I disconnected the battery connector and didn't bother to re-connect it when I was finished and just put the cover back on.
Here's the weird part - when I went to turn my laptop back on...MY BATTERY WAS RECOGNIZED...AND WORKING! I was under the impression that the connector "connects" the battery's charge to the laptop, but this just doesn't make sense! Plus, now my very dead battery is in "normal" condition according to the system report. I haven't worked for apple, but have about 5 years of IT experience and am baffled by this! I'm starting to think i've experience a miracle! Has this happened to anyone else?
Possibly disconnecting the battery caused the System Management Controller to reset. That might have been your problem rather than the battery itself. See http://osxdaily.com/2010/03/24/when-and-...
I'd just like an advise of where to dispose the old battery. Thanks
Any Best Buy or Batteries + Bulbs accepts batteries for recycling in their stores. Many other stores such as Home Depot do as well.
xtophr -
Office Depot will take any batteries and dispose of them for free
silas -
I tried spudging the corner closer to the wires which was probably a bad idea. The corner broke off! I can't believe it was that brittle. So be careful. If it did it again, I'd aim for the corners AWAY from the wires or the sides themselves, though I seem to recall there not being much of a lip.
I used the spudger to gently ease the battery connector out. I then placed a q-tip between the connector and it's socket to avoid making an accidental connection. A toothpick or some other soft stick might also work.
My battery connector had a shiny metal cover over it like a male USB plug. I had to take the 3 peace symbol screws oit and remove the battery before I could access thr plug properly. My battery plug also came off parallel to the board by walking the black plastic part off the metal part towards the battery. It required quite a bit of force to walk it off the connector. I broke a spudger trying. Something nonconductive but strong like a wittled down bamboo chopstick could work well.
Translate to Spanish:
Para ciertas reparaciones (por ejemplo, el disco duro), no es necesario desconectar el conector de la batería, pero evita cualquier cortocircuito accidental de la electrónica en la placa base. Si no desconecta el conector de la batería, tenga cuidado ya que partes de la placa base pueden estar electrificadas.
Use el borde de un spudger para levantar el conector de la batería hacia arriba desde su zócalo en la placa lógica.
Es útil hacer palanca hacia arriba en ambos lados cortos del conector para "sacarlo" de su zócalo.
The BATTERY MUST BE DISCONNECTED - it is NOT OPTIONAL if you are going to remove the logic board.
These instructions are for Removing The Logic Board, so if that is what you are going to do the battery MUST be disconnected.
The informational item beginning with the words "For certain repairs (e.g. hard drive), disconnecting the battery connector is not necessary … " is NOT applicable to a set of instructions on removing a logic board and it should be deleted from this otherwise excellent set of instructions.
In my opinion the RAM should be removed first - i.e., before the battery is removed.
The RAM DIMMS are just in the way if they are left in their sockets on the logic board until step 33.
I cannot see any useful reason to not remove them very early in the sequence.
Bend the battery cable slightly away from its socket on the logic board so it does not accidentally connect itself while you work.
Why not go ahead and remove the battery at this point instead of bending the battery connector back (see steps 23 -25 below)?
BilMcKelvy - 回复
Translate to Sanish: Doble el cable de la batería ligeramente lejos de su zócalo en la placa lógica para que no se conecte accidentalmente mientras trabaja.
Disconnect the camera cable connector from its socket on the logic board.
That's exactly what I did. I did not pay attention. Where do I find a replacement?
Erikmendez - 回复
I found this website for replacement parts : https://www.powerbookmedic.com/MacBook-P...
Desconecte el conector del cable de la cámara de su zócalo en la placa lógica.
No levante el cable mientras lo desconecta de la placa lógica. Tire del cable paralelo a la cara de la placa lógica.
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the AirPort/Bluetooth connector up from its socket on the logic board.
Use el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar el conector AirPort / Bluetooth de su zócalo en la placa lógica.
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the optical drive connector up from its socket on the logic board.
Use el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar el conector de la unidad óptica de su zócalo en la placa lógica.
Remove following two screws:
One 8.6 mm Phillips screw
One 3.9 mm Phillips screw
Carefully rotate the AirPort/Bluetooth board housing (with AirPort/Antenna cables still attached) out of the lower case.
Beware of step 8. Screws strip extremely easily. For some reason, that are extremely tough to get out and the metal is extremely soft so you are likely to screw yourself over real quick even if you use the right screwdriver. Happened to me and now it's impossible for me to take the @$%# thing off so I have to return my HDD bay and deal with having a useless disc drive.
I got burned here also. Unfortunately iFixit defaults to comments off, so I didn't see this until it was too late.
Yes, and I got stuck on step 8 for this simple task. Is there no way we can get the drive out while leaving the wireless/bluetooth board in place? I prefer to drill a small hole in the plastic of the board to reach the drive's screw underneath and find a way to slide it out towards the hard disk side.
Albert Kok - 回复
I had the same thing happen with the 3.9 mm screw. To remove the drive afterwards I used a 1/16" drill bit to carefully remove the (stripped) screw head. I left most of the screw threads intact, and the remaining "post" is enough to hold the airport/bluetooth fixture in place with the one remaining screw. These are some seriously soft screws, folks, be careful!
Just a sign, how insufficciently the whole computer is made. My impression is with every proper replacement it becomes rather valuable (not a market value by the way). I advice to replace these soft screws. It does not matter what the head is, as long as you have the screwdriver for it and it fits to the hole and to the height (which is important here).
i also screwed the screw, never saw a screw this soft. Still figuring out how to "unlock" it again...
Hmm. well, unfortunately after putting everything back together, my trackpad no longer works, and I can't login to my computer. removing the dual drive caddy and closing it back up returns trackpad functionality, but I really want the extra drive space. Anyone have any suggestions?
Hey, I got same problem on trackpad
Did you solve the issue? I wanna use trackpad
Help me
Well. I too stripped the head on the left side screw. First I used a cheap #000 screwdriver. Stripped the head and the driver. Not realizing just how bad I had stripped the screw I got a #0000 and the right one came out. I made sure to apply firm downward pressure to minimize slip. The left side was to far gone. So...
I broke the housing. Yep. I'm a brute.
Anyway. I rolled it up out of the case as if I had actually removed the screw. Only to realize I don't have a T6. [facepalm]. I've spent way too much time just getting that #0000. I'll order myself a nice kit for future 'repairs'.
Oh and yes, the bluetooth and wifi work just fine. The right screw and the tight fitting of the housing seem to keep it in place ok.
I also failed here.... How can i unscrew both screws if the star of the head is destroyed??
I too stripped the screw on the right, and while I tried a few basic things to remove the screw, eventually I drilled out the screw head so I could remove the airport/bluetooth housing. Only the head came off, enough to free the housing, but it sits pretty snugly on there with just the one screw and that's enough for me.
Alright, Genius bar just made it worse, ended up taking a drill to it hoping to break the head off so I could pull it out bit it just wouldn't come off. In the end I pushed a flat screw driver down as hard as I could and It shifted.
I know many of you wont want to put a drill to your shiny (expensive) mac, but the screw is surrounded and strong so you wont break through or damage anything.
Just have a steady hand ;)
I stripped both screws before reading these comments- disaster.
The only reason for removing these screws is so you can get access to the Torx screw beneath the Bluetooth/wireless board (ie the top left screw circled red in step 9). I Had the idea of drilling directly into the black wireless/Bluetooth plastic board directly above this top left Torx screw shown in step 9. I could then use a long thin Torx screwdriver to reach through the hole and unscrew it, without having to remove the stripped screws holding the wireless/Bluetooth board in place at all. Be careful drilling into the board(!), but worked perfectly for me. Once the Torx screws are removed, it just takes a bit of jiggling to carefully remove the optical drive out from under the board, and put the hd drive in.
If you're reading this before having stripped the two screws, I'd recommend not even trying to unscrew the Bluetooth board and just drill a hole in it, assuming you have steady hands. I'll try to upload a photo to show what I mean.
I'll second this - seemed a bit daunting at first but with a stripped screw and no screw extractor my options were limited. Having weighed up the options and carefully studying the pictures I decided that Laurence's idea was feasible (if not a little leftfield!). I carefully marked out an educated estimate of where the screw would be under the black wireless/Bluetooth plastic board (you can see it from the side so used this plus the images supplied here) and drilled, firstly with a 1.5mm to mark the spot and then with a larger 4mm. Obviously this needs to be done very carefully so you do not continue and drill into the torque 6 screw you are trying to get to, but once the hole was drilled my bit reached down to the screw and could *carefully* be lifted up and through the newly created hole. Once the screw has been removed, along with the other 2 torque 6 screws in this step, the optical drive / caddy will slide out as opposed to being lifted vertically out in the instructions, but this proved little hassle
Andy -
That worked for me too :) Thanks for the hint!
Hi, this part to be drilled is metallic and not plastic. Is there any impact of the drilling on the wireless/ Bluetooth functioning? The proposed solution is attractive if it does not impact how the Macbook works… Thierry
Hello there, I'm looking for some help. I am planning on doing this "procedure". I have the 54 Bit Driver set from iFixIt. If I have to unscrew the 8.6 mm Phillips screw and 3.9 mm Phillips screw. What bits should I use from the 54 Bit Kit? The PH1, PH0, PH00, PH000? I really don't want to strip the screw, which one should I use?
Josh I would use the PH00 bit from the 54 Bit Kit. Apple use a different non standard screw head design to Phillips which does not have the cam-out geometry and uses a pointed tip. The PH0 and PH00 bits are a reasonable approximation. I have to say that even with the best match between the screwdriver and screw they may still strip as the original screws seem to be made of painted cheese. If that happens you could try using a tough steel small flat screwdriver bit to drill/scrape out a round hole in the screw head and then gently force in the next largest slotted bit. This has worked for me twice.
Roger -
As a warning i had to take a near new refurbished mid 2012 MacBook Pro into Apple to have a missing/stripped bottom case screw repaired under warranty and in the process of taking it apart they stripped five more screws and damaged the LCD screen cable, upper case and keyboard, speaker, Bluetooth module and several other assemblies. It was all repaired properly under warranty but it took over 2 weeks and the only original parts I got back were the logic board and baseplate. Some of these MacBook Pro's are a real challenge and come with stuck and sometimes pre stripped screws from the factory. Take your time and remember Apple keep all the screws at genius bars, if you ask nicely and give the the Apple part number they are often happy to fit them for you. Good Luck!
Roger -
I've mailed with pbparts and got the clarification:
* http://www.pbparts.com/shop.php//9229107... = 8.6mm screw
* http://www.pbparts.com/shop.php//9228974... = 3,9mm screw
PBParts said: Measurements from iFixit are better than the printed length by Apple manuals. I'll give these screws a try.
All you need to unscrew the short screw (and don't screw up) is a soldering iron. You should apply heat to aluminum column located below the head of the screw. Loctite-like glue in thread loses its grip when heated, so you probably will unscrew that little bastard without any issues. It worked for me, even with semi-stripped head!
Dvadzatdva - 回复
Siht. I screw up the screw too. And then I realize there are 24 comments in this step. Now I make 25 of it. That little fcuking 3.9mm...
Anyway, so I drilled that striped screw head with 3mm tip, totally striped that screw so seperated rim, removed Airport supports, there still 1mm of screw steam thingy, got rid of that using small nipper, put new screw in.
Use very, I mean very sharp even your finger bleed when touch the edge of small screw driver. Regular #0 or #00 driver will distroy your screw head.
I stripped the screw on the right, and finally got it out with one of the screw extractors sold by iFixit: Precision Screw Extractor Set
Made same mistake here (rushed through the directions and didn't even notice the warning!). I completely stripped the smaller screw but I was able to get it out easily with an extractor drill bit, the kind readily available in hardware stores (Grabit Micro was the brand name here in the U.S.). Ordered a replacement screw from pbparts re the advice above (thanks for the part number!).
Stripped this one too. I think it was fixed in with Locktite. Had to buy a Grabit Micro to remove it. Started with the #1 but when I reversed the bit it wouldn't catch. Thought I would have to drill it out completely, but tried with the #2 and the hole drilling end of the bit caught in the hole I'd already drilled with the #1. If you're about to follow through these instructions I would make sure to have some Grabit drill bits or other stripped screw removal tools on hand before you start.
I have done it using an 1,5 mm cross slot screwdriver from a screwdriver set by LIHAO (I bought it at Amazon). First, ensure that the screwdriver is well fitted into the screw head, then press down and try to turn it(without forcing it!). If the screw does not turn easily, stop, take out the screw driver and repeat the process till the screw get loose. Be patient, take your time and keep in mind that your main priority is to preserve the heads of the cheese screws
I got it out with no trouble by using a Moody Phillips #2006 .100" (the one recommended by iFixit for this repair), and by using very firm pressure and very gentle rotation, checking at about an 1/8 turn to see if the screw was turning or stripping.
For what it's worth, on my 2011 MBP 17", the bluetooth/wireless unit was held down with two flat-head phillips screws; the one on the left, the 8.6 was attached to the metal clip just to the right of it in the picture. It came out very easily. The one on the right definitely had some kind of loctite adhesive, but eventually I got it free with firm, quick short twists. Didn't strip. Also, the torx screws on the superdrive were all phillips heads as well. Not sure if that's a 17" thing or what. Thanks!
Although these screws look like PH00 Philips heads, if you've got one of the iFixit toolkits, the best driver to use is the J000 or JIS000 driver. Unless the screws have been terribly stripped, it'll pop them out effortlessly every time.
I took a different method with these screws. I removed the black coating from the head of the screw with a sewing needle and a small bit of acetone while using a magnifier. This got it right down to shiny metal inside which I believe helped make better contact with the Phillips bit. I also took a small file to the bit to sharpen it like new. These screws came right out for me with just this little bit of advance prep.
Mike Jones - 回复
I applied pretty firm pressure and was very careful with my rotations. They both came right out. I noticed the left longer screw was sort of tight on the first initial turn or two but after that it loosened up. I didn't have any slip on either screw so I can't speak for striping but I can say it was either because I applied firm pressure (as the instructions say to do) or because lock tight had worn off.
retire los siguientes dos tornillos:
Tenga cuidado, ya que estos tornillos son inusualmente fáciles de pelar. Aplique una presión firme mientras desenrosca. Lea los comentarios antes de continuar.
Un tornillo Phillips de 8.6 mm
Un tornillo Phillips de 3.9 mm
Con cuidado, gire la carcasa de la placa AirPort / Bluetooth (con los cables AirPort / Antenna aún conectados) fuera de la carcasa inferior.
Aug 3, 2020
I have a mid 2012 MacBook Pro that I am trying to replace the optical drive with an SSD. And I believe I scraped a bit to much on the right side of the screw (horrible design, thanks Apple) and I'm getting angry and upset that I spent money buying this #00 Philip screw driver from this site and also purchasing the caddy and ssd from another source. Do anyone have any ideas how I can remove the right screw? Anyone? I'm trying to upgrade this thing one last time so I can have at least a efficient MacBook.
i stripped both screws since it was on too tight. i was lucky enough to use a stripped screw extractor to extract the left screw. for the right one, sadly i had to use a pair of tin cutters and cut the V section. The frame was metal so nothing snapped. I then used pliers to pull straight up and twist eventually getting the other stripped screw out. Going to buy the replacement frame and BETTER screws that don't strip and replace the wifi frame. ugh. didn't want to cut the wifi frame but had to.
Kevin Chiu - 回复
Remove the three 3.5 mm T6 Torx screws securing the optical drive to the upper case.
I actually found this section to be the most difficult, the T6 screws are soft as butter, apply plenty of pressure when removing. The one towards the front of the laptop looking from the back is the most problematic.
Does anyone know where I can get replacements for these 3.5 mm T6 Torx screws without spending a fortune on the entire screw set? It looks like this site doesn't sell them and online searches have not turned up any sources either!
jettoblack - 回复
I had a hard time putting these screws back in with the HDD bracket. It looks like the bracket doesn't leave room for the bolt heads, so they go in at an angle. I tried for a while getting them lined up just right, but eventually gave up and now I'm pretty sure those T6 are cross-threaded into the aluminium. =( The original optical bay does have room for the bolt heads so they stay vertical.
Retire los tres tornillos Torx T6 de 3.5 mm que sujetan la unidad óptica a la carcasa superior.
Lift the optical drive near its connector and pull it away from the upper case to remove it from the computer.
Levante la unidad óptica cerca de su conector y extráigala de la caja superior para extraerla de la computadora.
Hola pakito, ¿Por qué no traduces directamente? En las instrucciones solo presione los tres puntos en la esquina superior derecha y elija "traducir".
VauWeh -
Pull the optical drive cable out of the optical drive.
Remove the two black Phillips #0 screws securing the small metal mounting bracket. Transfer this bracket to your new optical drive or hard drive enclosure.
I found that placing the SSHD back into the laptop was a major issue; it was a very tight fit back into the rest of the machine.
Mine too. I'm going to retry back in original position which is less likely to overhead or be shocked because no rubber mounts
Failing that buy a WD 7mm drive which is not ideal.
Andrew -
Those were Phillips #00 in my case, not #0, on the small metal mounting bracket.
Remove the plastic spacer from the optical bay hard drive enclosure by pressing in on one of the clips on either side and lifting it up and out of the enclosure.
The bay and dvd drive cable at iFixit is $40.00 (Unibody Laptop Dual Drive)
But for $10 more you can get an external casing that will protect your super drive form MCE (http://store.mcetech.com/Merchant2/merch...) A total of $50 dollars. It is what I used and works great and looks pretty and is guaranteed to protect your superdrive. MCE also gives you a disk with software to patch the DVD Player to work with external dvd drives. So For an extra $10 dollars you get better software functionality and a case for your super drive. It works great.
Robert, do you by chance also know where to buy an external drive case to make the old hard disk an external portable hard disk ?
Early 2011 MacBook Pro was running slow with its 2TB hard drive running at 5400rpm. The DVD drive was almost never used. The iFixit part allowed me to place the hard drive in the DVD bay and place an SSD drive where the hard drive originally sat. Now the computer fires up almost instantly and runs so much cooler as the 2TB hard drive is only accessed as needed. A stunning transformation for a 7 year old laptop.
Paul Cline - 回复
Make sure that the hard drive connectors are facing down before placing it into the enclosure.
Gently place the hard drive into the enclosure's hard drive slot.
While firmly holding the enclosure in place with one hand, use your other hand to press the hard drive into the enclosure connectors.
It is not a good idea to put fast SSDs into the optibay. System tries to negotiate at 6 Gbit, but it fails; disk is recognized but it couldn't even be formatted. I've waisted a lot of time to find a reason. After swapping SSD with original mac's HD both work properly, one at 6, another at 3 Gbit
Good to know, thanks!
I have to withdraw my comment. It is NOT a good idea to put a SATAIII SSD in the optical bay. It gives random freezes. Swapping it with a HD is indeed better. Better read/writes too. Only downside is that SMS won't work on the optical bay so treat your baby with care. Also Sleep issues might occur when placing a HD in the optical bay (a total freezing system). I already wasted a HD that was in the optical bay.
I've replaced the optibay with a samsung 840 pro but can't format it nor copy files (a few files work) to it. Do you suggest putting the HDD in the optibay instead? Did you clone the HDD to the SSD before swapping them? Will my Mac boot from the HDD the first time I boot even though it's in the optibay? I would really appreciate an answer, I've spent too many hours trying to figure it out!
Also had this same problem. Tried and failed a Samsung firmware upgrade. Ended up send drive back to Amazon.
Andrew -
Okay it seems like some models of MacBook Pro have issues with a fast (6Gbit/s) SSD in the optical bay. Even though my Mac says it offers 6Gbit on both bays it simply didn't work in the optical bay. So I switched places between the two drives and everything seems to work. My Mac booted from the old HDD in optical bay automatically and then I cloned it afterwards and changed the startup disk to the new one. As said before, don't put a fast SSD in the optical bay!
Hello Carl. What have you done after switching places between the two drives? Can you explain it with more details please? I have the HDD in the hard drive place, and an SSD in the optibay, and I have a lot of freeze / beachball. Thanks.
I'm on a Macbook pro 13" Late 2011.
I have the startup set to the SSD in the optibay.
I've already done it. switch the hard drives and reboot, that's all. Working without beachballs XD
I'm experiencing the same issues with the HDDs in the optical bay. I've tried multiple drives (WD caviar blue 3G and a Seagate 6G) with no luck thus far. I replaced the SATA cable and that didn't help with either drive. My SSD still works fine in the main bay but I would like the extra storage.
For those of you who got the HDD in the optical bay working, which HDD (brand and model) did you use?
My MBP is a Late 2011 15" (8.2)
My understanding is that SSD in the optibay for 2011 MBPs will only work on the late-2011 13" model (not the 15" or 17"). I can confirm that it works in my late-2011 13" MBP. I have a Samsung EVO 500GB in my optibay (HGST 1TB in the hard drive bay) with no problems at all: negotiated link speed of 6Gbits for both drives and not beach balls or other slowdowns.
Steve -
I'm not trying to put an SSD in the optical bay. As I said, I've tried multiple HDDs but none of them seem to work. I know that it's possible to put an HDD in the optical bay because I bought the computer with one in it but it seems that none are recognized. I have tried multiple brands and speeds with no luck. I would like to know which specific model of HDD works in the late 2011 15" optical bay.
woestmab -
Whats the size of this caddy?
Looks like no one has any clue. I can see following sizes:
12.7mm universal
12.7mm unibody
9.5mm universal
9.5mm unibody
I have a macbook pro mid 2012 non retina
It's not wise to swop the optidrive for an HD as there is no physical protection. The caddy is only intended for an SSD.
Once the hard drive is snug, reinsert the plastic spacer while holding the hard drive against the bottom of the enclosure.
Here they picture Crucial as their choice, you can also find some great options at Samsung (it is what I installed and it works just as good if not better than the crucial I installed in my wife's iMac. here is their site http://www.samsung.com/us/computer/solid...
Its just another great option. Also when installing SSDs make sure to enable TRIM support (crashes can and probably will occur if you don't) TRIM enabler is available free and the pro version is $10 http://www.cindori.org/software/trimenab... It is the easiest solution for this issue.
Is it true that you cannot instal an SSD in the Optical Bay that has a capacity larger than 750GB? If I wanted to put a 2TB SSD in there, would it work?
Use two Phillips #1 screws to secure the drive to its enclosure.
With the particular drive bay adaptor I used, these attachment screws were already fitted to the adaptor but were found at the sides, not underneath. Indeed, the adaptor had no screw holes on the underside.
At first I couldn't get my machine to even turn on - thought it was the battery connector, but in the end I just had to reset the SMC. (http://support.apple.com/kb/ht3964 - see "Resetting the SMC on portables with a battery you should not remove on your own").
Where are these screws coming from? Were they part of the original optical drive?
Attach the optical drive bracket to the new enclosure with two Phillips #0 screws.
Reconnect any cables you have removed from the original optical drive onto the optical bay enclosure.
I have the drive installed with this bay, but the drive does not appear in the Disk Utility. I see a 'Nvidia MCP79 AHCI' in the system information, but no drive listed with it. Is there some special driver needed to get the MCP to see the drive?
Replaced the optical with hdd, as well as replaced the hard drive with an ssd. Now I get the circle with a line through it. But, when I hold the option key down, it gives me both hard drives, PLUS, the thumb drive I have in the USB port with a Mountain Lion installer. It even shows the recovery disks, but gives me the circle with the line when I choose one. Any help is appreciated.
My mbp shipped with OS 10.8, and I had upgraded twice to 10.10
I've a 10.7 USB which upgraded my old MBP.
My plan today was to boot with my new ssd, my time machine back up and the Lion usb plugged in.
I would then click on the Lion usb, and tell it to put the OS and time machine back up on the ssd.
So I help down ALT and when it started it gave me the options of the usual Mac internal or the Lion USB.
I clicked Lion, but instead of taking me to the install options (Disk utility, restore from time machine etc etc) it gave me that grey circle with a diagonal line through it. The no entry sign - grey on grey - that I think you have.
Some googling said that it is because I was trying to usb a 10.7 install on a MBP that shipped 10.8
You can't go back, apparently.
So if any of the OSs are older than the mac you got, you will get this error. The grey in grey no entry.
I just cloned my HDD to my ssd (Carbon copy cloner free 30 day trial) using an external stat-usb3 wire and all is good.
Rory -
simple question, how do I use the removed drive to play a DVD? Why don't I just use digital media...yadayada...I know. I'm currently in the hospital, did this drive swap for busy work. The littles want to watch an old DVD and I can't solve the issue.
This will give you instructions on how to get your DVD player to work in an external enclosure: http://macenstein.com/default/2011/07/ho...
Steve -
I have a 17" Macbook Pro6,1 unibody with an Intel Core i5, 2.53GHz. I was successful installing a 250GB SSD in the DVD bay, and I'm able to boot from it. I did this by first installing OS X 10.9.4 on the SSD mounted into an external HD case, testing the system to see if it would boot up into the SSD, then installing the SSD and carrier in the DVD drive bay. The system now boots up from the SSD with no problems. If you are having installation problems, I recommend trying this method.
roger hall - 回复
This is really for step 23: reassembly
You can not get the orginal screws back in to hold the new optical drive replacement in place because there is a black plastic filler running along the front edge of the part. There is no place for the screw head to go. I had to remove some of the plastic to get the machine reassembled. Whoever tested this overlooked what I think is a major problem. How many macbook pros are out there with only one (maybe two if you're lucky) screw holding this thing in place?
I got extra screws and have no idea why. The bits included in the kit are poor and don't work on most of the screws. I had to use my own tools instead.
I'm using a 13' MBP mid 2010 and I just swapped my HDD for a SSD. Al works perfectly fine!
So i bought the unibody laptop dual drive (from iFixit) and replaced the optical drive for the original HDD from my MBP. The installation with this guide went perfectly, however, the HDD is not recognized in disk utility.
I put the old HDD back on the original HDD bay, the HDD boots and works. I placed back the optical drive in the optical bay, also works. But when i put the HDD in the unibody laptop dual drive (iFixit), it is not recognized via the USB-port(however, the HDD starts spinning) or when installed in the optical bay.
So i think there is a software issue where my MBP does not recognize a HDD in the optical bay. Is there a way to force the OS to look for storage/HDD via the optical bay STATA cable?
All help is welcome!
Leon: did you fix your issue? I'm facing the same problem.
No, afraid not..
Leon -
also having the same problem, not recognizing second hdd
cmaizan -
Same here: installed original hdd in optical bay and it won't mount. Tried it using the sata cable on different computer, and the drive spins, but doesn't mount either. Would love to get a fix (or at least an explanation) for this. The whole point was to add extra storage, but so far, no dice.
Did you ever find a solution?
I installed mine, but the ssd I'm using was a bootable usb running Yosemite, and now that I plugged it in, I'm getting a circle with the slash through it when I try to boot to it, and I can't unmount it or reformat it from the recovery Disk Utility or in Mountain Lion on the stock hdd still inside.
Same issue here unfortunately... new SSD in primary slot is recognized fine and allowed me to install OS X with no issues from USB. However, both during the install when booting from USB and post-install within the full El Capitan OS, I simply do not see any '2nd' hard drive in the system - for the record I just reused the same 500GB HDD that came with my MBP; and I ran the exhaustive System Profiler tests prior to doing any work to ensure I'd have no HW issues/surprises. Sure enough,. I can hear the mechanical drive churning as the power runs to it, so I know it's hooked up okay. For some reason the drive just isn't being recognized by the Mac OS. Hoping someone can help me resolve this so I don't feel bad about spending the [extra] money on the iFixit enclosure system vs. one of the cheaper alternatives I found online, sigh... Any help would be much appreciated, thanks!
Brian M -
Figured I'd reply to my own message just above for those interested or following my situation. The 'churning' I heard was actually the left fan inside the system, which I managed to disassemble so I could lubricate the sleeve bearing with a touch of mineral oil - now it's as quiet as ever and works great. Also, I ordered a replacement optical SATA adapter cable from iFixit and this resolved my issue of accessing the hard drive moved to the optical slot inside the dual drive enclosure. Long story short - all of my issues are resolved thanks to some disassembly/repair work and new parts from iFixit!
Brian M -
Same problem happens, i don't know how to fix that as well. Anyone has any idea? Thanks
The 'churning' I heard was actually the left fan inside the system, which I managed to disassemble so I could lubricate the sleeve bearing with a touch of mineral oil - now it's as quiet as ever and works great.
@shdowflare (Brian M) [Somewhat tangential to this guide, but:] wow, do I feel dumb. I've replaced 3 sets of fans in my MBP's lifetime, due to the inevitable noise that arises after 2-3 years of use. Never thought of just trying mineral oil to relube the fans.
skat1140 -
I followed the tutorial and everything works fine when I use an HDD 320 go but when I use the new HDD I bought which is an Hitachi 1T 7200T 2.5 P I have some trouble. The disk utily takes a long time to recognize the new hard drive and then starts not responding.
I tought my new HDD might be broken but when I use it with an external portable HDD Enclosure it works fine...
Any ideas?
I do believe the max size HDD is a 750GB. 1TB might be too big. Though the ONLY place I found this stated was on iFixit. No where else.
I just have finished installing second SSD to my MBP (unibody 15` 2010).
First one was changed like one year ago. Samsung 500GB SSD. It is in my HDD bay and I'm running system from it.
Today I put a new Samsung 1TB 850 Evo 1 SSD in to my optic bay.
I encounter problem with SSD not recognized by Finder.
But It was recognized by Disk Utility.
What I did was I erase new SSD by Disk Utility. Then the new partition was created and now It has been seen by Finder.
So If you see it in Disk Utility just erased it.
Some extra info in under this link--> https://discussions.apple.com/docs/DOC-4...
Wish you all luck :)
Hi all,
I did this and all seemed to be working fine, both drives showed up and all was good then about 20 minutes later i got a message saying that "the drive had been ejected incorrectly" or something like that. The drives have now disappeared from finder and Disk Utility. I took the SSD out of the superdrive caddy and put it in an external USB3 caddy, it's working fine. I even left this connected over night (all OK). This morning i put the SSD back into my Late 2011 MacBook and the same thing happened, 20ish minutes and then the eject message... Have i missed something?
Any help would be very much appreciated.
Dear iFixit
I changed my Hdd with an ssd using this guide. My hdd is now in a caddy where the optical drive used to be.
I can see my original drive ( Toshiba 500GB ) in the disk utility-app, but i can't reach my data on it.
When i take it out of the caddy again and put it in a external Hdd case, i can read it perfectly fine.
So there is nothing wrong with the hdd or the connection.
Is this a problem i can fix with software?
Thx for the help!
Those were Phillips #00 in my case, not #0, on the small metal mounting bracket.
Align the cable's SATA connector with the drive's port and plug in securely.
Plug the USB connector into your laptop and your optical drive is ready for use.
There is a small metal button in the front of the drive and you can use that to eject the drive if you were wondering.
my drive's connector is nothing like that, and I'm wondering is it possible to connect it to another computer?
grantdavis - 回复
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
I had problems initialising the SDD drive in the optical bay. But have placed it in HD bay and it works fine.
My old Hard drive is a really snug fit in the caddy (its a 9.5mm drive) - when installed in the HD bay it sits on rubber shock absorbers and has air around it.
With a HD in the optical bay, I expect there to be some overheating or shock problems in the future.
!! Hard drive !! The Harddrive with the OS X on it for booting, has to be to be in the Harddisk bay and not the optical bay!
The System does only startup regularly on the SATA connector meant for the Harddrive, not the SATA connector of the former optical drive! (Even for MID 2012)
So, cause the most of us will add a SSD and want to run the System from it, we have to change the old Harddisk to the Optical bay where it is mounted without the anti shock rubbers.
In my case it did´t die there for over a year yet, so, not the big deal it seems at the first look ;-) lucky
I have a mid-2012 MBP. I just replaced the superdrive with a Samsung Evo 840 1TB SSD. My mac will boot from this drive when it is in the primary bay, and also if it is connected externally with a USB3/SATA cable. However it will not boot from the optical drive bay.
Also, if I install my original drive (Seagate Momentus XT 750GB hybrid) in the optical drive bay it will not boot.
If however I install an old 5400 HDD in to the optical drive bay, it WILL boot.
All three of the above mentioned drives have the same cloned OS on them. When the hybrid or the SSD are installed in the optical drive bay I can see them in the system profiler; both read a negotiated link speed of 6g.
Am I missing something...?
Crumbs :
Yes you are missing something… MPB MI2012 have just ONE Sata3 to read SSD… The sata for optical drive bay is on sata2.. So it can't read SSD drive. Put your DD5400 on the optical drive bay, and boot with your SSD (install on the primary bay) and everything will be okay ;)!
Micke -
can you run two ssds at once? consecutively? one in the primary slot where the old hdd used to be and one in the optical drive?
and does it matter if the drives are different in brand? does one have to be a hybrid drive?
Has anyone installed 2 SSDs (1 as HDD replacement and 1 into the optical drive bay) and connected them to a striped level 0 RAID? Both of the SATA connections are 6 G/s. A RAID 0 based on 2 SSDs both running at 6 G/s must be close to the speed of the 2016 MBP Models.
You may want to check that out. I haven't tried this approach yet but am considering it. Good luck.
Great guide. Would have been better if I had realised I had to initialise the drive first as it was not recognised in the optical bay. I took macbook all apart again put optical bay back, closed it all up started MacBook. Attached HDD with USB and initialised and partioned it. Placed HDD in optical bay again and this time the drive recognised. Need a good link now to move my photos to optical HDD and there must be a way that they are automatically saved there and not on the main drive. I am enjoying my retirement and learning. I fix it is a great site I really appreciated the detailed guide with superb pictures which could be enlarged on my I pad to ensure this pensioner was getting it right. Big thankyou
Geoff Gale - 回复
Hi! Great guide indeed, so to good to be able to upgrade mine with 2TB.
I got the same issue as you and really didn't want put everything apart and together again! I found that you can initialize the disk without taking everything apart with few commands in the terminal. This guy explains it very well https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sJG5Woef...
Thank you to helped me understand why I could'nt find my disk and thanks again to tutorial's writers from iFixit!


text:
Gubernatorial hopeful Boughton says GOP needs to embrace Connecticut's cities
Boughton paints himself as 'blue collar' candidate
With less than three weeks until the Republican nominating convention, gubernatorial hopeful Danbury Mayor Mark Boughton is wrestling for delegates, ambling toward a primary where he hopes he can be his party's ambassador to the cities, a weak spot for the party in previous elections.
"The Republicans have done a horrible job at communicating their message in the cities. ... I think that part of the problem is Republicans have not respected the people living in the cities and just don't understand where they're coming from," Boughton said. Earlier, he said of himself, "This will be one governor who will pay attention to our cities, who will understand the issues there."
Boughton, one of several Republican nominees seeking to unseat incumbent Democrat Gov. Dannel P. Malloy, made the comments during an editorial board meeting at the New Haven Register Wednesday.
First, he has to win his party's nomination, not an easy task.
"Our goal is to get about 15 percent at the convention and make it to the primary, and then have a much broader conversation where all of the residents can participate," Boughton said.
The Danbury mayor has learned from his first bid for the governor's seat. Lacking appeal in the state's eastern towns, Boughton turned to Heather Somers, former mayor of Groton, as his lieutenant governor and running mate this time around.
Boughton faces an uphill climb in gaining the nomination. Tom Foley ran for governor in 2010, holds a substantial lead in the Republican field in a Quinnipiac poll and is considered the frontrunner by political observers.
Boughton and Foley are no strangers. The Danbury mayor landed in the number two spot on the Republican ticket when he won the nomination for lieutenant governor in 2010.
"I will tell you: I'm not running against Tom Foley, I'm running against Dan Malloy," Boughton said.
Still, in a swipe at the more affluent Foley, Boughton called himself the "Blue Collar Republican," who's had the same struggles as the rest of the middle class. He also criticized Foley, former U.S. ambassador to Ireland, for his unwillingness to debate other Republicans.
Boughton spent much of Wednesday's discussion on "kitchen table" issues, and his own assertion of being a blue-collar Republican has been questioned because of his stance on issues some say show a lack of support for the middle class, such as the minimum wage. Despite his vote as a state representative against an increase to the minimum wage, which Boughton says was due to a stipulation in the bill that would have allowed younger teens to work, the Danbury mayor says he would support a raise in the minimum wage if the economy is "right."
"That doesn't mean I would not not support raising the minimum wage in the future," Boughton said — but having a workforce relying on minimum wage also means more should be done regarding work training to help people.
He also called for an even more aggressive approach to luring businesses to the state. In recent years, Danbury's been waging a border war with neighboring Westchester County, New York, which offers new businesses 10 years of tax breaks to relocate to the Empire State. Boughton wants to up the ante by offering companies 12 years without business taxes to come to Connecticut.
Contact Jennifer Swift at 203-789-5615.


text:
Evaluation of Cardiovascular Outcomes in Patients With Type 2 Diabetes After Acute Coronary Syndrome During Treatment With AVE0010 (Lixisenatide) (ELIXA)
|The safety and scientific validity of this study is the responsibility of the study sponsor and investigators. Listing a study does not mean it has been evaluated by the U.S. Federal Government. Read our disclaimer for details.
|ClinicalTrials.gov Identifier: NCT01147250
Recruitment Status : Completed
First Posted : June 22, 2010
Results First Posted : October 14, 2016
Last Update Posted : December 20, 2016
- Study Details
- Tabular View
- Study Results
- Disclaimer
- How to Read a Study Record
|Tracking Information
|First Submitted Date ICMJE
|June 17, 2010
|First Posted Date ICMJE
|June 22, 2010
|Results First Submitted Date ICMJE
|August 22, 2016
|Results First Posted Date ICMJE
|October 14, 2016
|Last Update Posted Date
|December 20, 2016
|Study Start Date ICMJE
|June 2010
|Actual Primary Completion Date
|February 2015 (Final data collection date for primary outcome measure)
|Current Primary Outcome Measures ICMJE
|Time to First Occurence of Primary CV Event: CV Death, Non-Fatal MI, Non-Fatal Stroke or Hospitalization for Unstable Angina [ Time Frame: From randomization up to the end of study (median follow-up of 25 months) ]
Kaplan Meier plots of the cumulative incidence rate by treatment groups were used to depict the onset of primary CV endpoint over time. Number of observed participants with endpoint events were reported. A CV event adjudication committee (CAC) reviewed and adjudicated, in a blinded fashion, all potential events.
|Original Primary Outcome Measures ICMJE
|Time to the first occurrence of CV death, non-fatal MI, non-fatal stroke, hospitalization for unstable angina, adjudicated and validated by the Cardiovascular Events Adjudication Committee (CAC) [ Time Frame: week 0 to week 176 ]
|Change History
|Current Secondary Outcome Measures ICMJE
|Original Secondary Outcome Measures ICMJE
|Current Other Pre-specified Outcome Measures
|Not Provided
|Original Other Pre-specified Outcome Measures
|Not Provided
|Descriptive Information
|Brief Title ICMJE
|Evaluation of Cardiovascular Outcomes in Patients With Type 2 Diabetes After Acute Coronary Syndrome During Treatment With AVE0010 (Lixisenatide)
|Official Title ICMJE
|A Randomized, Double-blind, Placebo-controlled, Parallel-group, Multicenter Study to Evaluate Cardiovascular Outcomes During Treatment With Lixisenatide in Type 2 Diabetic Patients After an Acute Coronary Syndrome
|Brief Summary
Primary Objective:
- To demonstrate that lixisenatide can reduce cardiovascular (CV) morbidity and mortality (composite endpoint of CV death, non-fatal myocardial infarction (MI), non-fatal stroke, hospitalization for unstable angina) compared to placebo in type 2 diabetic participants who recently experienced an acute coronary syndrome (ACS) event.
Secondary Objectives:
To demonstrate that when compared to placebo, lixisenatide can reduce:
To assess the safety and tolerability of lixisenatide.
|Detailed Description
The estimated maximum study duration for the first randomized participant was approximately 204 weeks (± 14 days), with a median follow-up over all participants of approximately 91 weeks, broken down as follows:
All participants were followed from randomization until the end of study, which should occur when the last randomized participant had been followed for approximately 10 months. The actual end date of the study was "event driven" and the study end when there were approximately 844 positively-adjudicated primary cardiovascular outcome events.
|Study Type ICMJE
|Study Phase ICMJE
|Phase 3
|Study Design ICMJE
|Allocation: Randomized
Intervention Model: Parallel Assignment
Masking: Triple (Participant, Investigator, Outcomes Assessor)
Primary Purpose: Treatment
|Condition ICMJE
|Acute Coronary Syndrome
|Intervention ICMJE
|Study Arms ICMJE
|Publications *
* Includes publications given by the data provider as well as publications identified by ClinicalTrials.gov Identifier (NCT Number) in Medline.
|Recruitment Information
|Recruitment Status ICMJE
|Actual Enrollment ICMJE
|Original Estimated Enrollment ICMJE
|Actual Study Completion Date ICMJE
|February 2015
|Actual Primary Completion Date
|February 2015 (Final data collection date for primary outcome measure)
|Eligibility Criteria ICMJE
Inclusion criteria:
Exclusion criteria:
The above information is not intended to contain all considerations relevant to a participant's potential participation in a clinical trial.
|Sex/Gender ICMJE
|Ages ICMJE
|30 Years and older (Adult, Older Adult)
|Accepts Healthy Volunteers ICMJE
|Contacts ICMJE
|Contact information is only displayed when the study is recruiting subjects
|Listed Location Countries ICMJE
|Argentina, Australia, Austria, Belarus, Belgium, Brazil, Bulgaria, Canada, Chile, China, Colombia, Denmark, Ecuador, Egypt, Estonia, Finland, France, Georgia, Germany, Guatemala, India, Israel, Italy, Japan, Korea, Republic of, Latvia, Lithuania, Mexico, Netherlands, Norway, Panama, Peru, Philippines, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Russian Federation, Serbia, South Africa, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Taiwan, Tunisia, Turkey, Ukraine, United Arab Emirates, United Kingdom, United States
|Removed Location Countries
|Puerto Rico
|Administrative Information
|NCT Number ICMJE
|Other Study ID Numbers ICMJE
2009-012852-26 ( EudraCT Number )
U1111-1116-5558 ( Other Identifier: UTN )
|Has Data Monitoring Committee
|U.S. FDA-regulated Product
|Not Provided
|IPD Sharing Statement ICMJE
|Not Provided
|Responsible Party
|Study Sponsor ICMJE
|Collaborators ICMJE
|Not Provided
|Investigators ICMJE
|PRS Account
|Verification Date
|October 2016
ICMJE Data element required by the International Committee of Medical Journal Editors and the World Health Organization ICTRP


text:
Wolf Blitzer delivers the most important breaking news and political, international, and national security stories of the day. Tune to The Situation Room weekdays 5-7pm ET on CNN.
Republicans are building fake Democratic Congressional candidate websites to spread the GOP's message and get unknowing donors to send them money. CNN's Drew Griffin investigates.
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text:
Vote Dammit!
There are millions of people just like you getting out the vote and educating others on the issues facing our country. All of the following organizations are great, so look around and pick your way to participate. Don't forget to go to the Choice and Peace and Justice areas of the Action section for even more ways to get involved!
HeadCount "Register to Vote"
Progressive Democrats of America
Progressive Democrats of America
War Resisters League
Democracy for America
League of Women Voters
Project Vote Smart


text:
View more videos at: http://nbcchicago.com.
Several teens were arrested after dozens of mob groups began attacking pedestrians on Chicago's downtown Magnificent Mile area on Saturday night.
Police responded to reports of disturbances near Michigan and Chicago Avenues.
Police said 28 teens were arrested during the incident and no serious injuries were reported.
The teens charged with misdemeanor reckless conduct and battery and later released, according to News Affairs Officer Perkus.
Eleven other teens were charged with the same misdemeanor charges after they attacked a group of women on the CTA Red Line, police said.
Read more stories at NBCChicago.com
"You have over three to four hundred teenagers with mob action, jumping on individuals that are downtown," said community activist Andrew Holmes. "Multiple people have been arrested and I caution those parents that get this call about your child being arrested -- maybe you need to check your child."
Officers began breaking up the attacks by ushering teens to the Red Line. Chaos continued underground but many attackers reportedly left the area.
"I just saw a cluster run down to the Red Line," said Red Line passenger Amanda Dobson. "I didn't know what was going on. I just kind of stepped back and let the police do what they needed to do."
Police continued to patrol the area on bikes, horses and on foot as smaller groups wandered around the Loop.
It is not clear if the attacks are related to a similar mobbing of Ford City Mall last month.
Residents were concerned that this could be the first in a long line of attacks after warm weather brought on a string of similar instances last year.
"It's been happening a lot around here," said Eric Baldinger, who works along the Magnificent Mile. "Just keep your wallet close and your purse closer."
Others said the attacks were disappointing and feared for the future of the city.
"I think it's very childish," said resident Angelica Wilson. "That's what wrong with the generation today because there's always petty fights going on down here and everybody getting hurt. We don't need more problems."


text:
The Great Divide
Fantasies of having a home office and walk-in-closet can be crushed by the cramped realities of apartment living. But, don't give up! You can keep that spare room dream alive if you learn to harness the power of the divider. Here are ten inventive designs that you easily can make yourself—no board approval required.
Old Door Room Divider
One person's discarded old door is another person's room divider. You'll find doors-o-plenty at salvage yards, garage sales, flea markets and dumpsters. Touch them up with a light sanding and some paint (if necessary), hinge them together, and presto-changeo—a swanky room divider. Consider mixing different styles for more interest.
Unless you have 2,000 multi-colored Ikea clothes hangers sitting around, this room divider will be a stretch to make (the Chromatic Screen was created by LikeArchitects for the 2012 Oporto Show). Consider some other creative ways to reuse plastic hangers to create an interesting wall-hanging sculpture and artfully define your space.
Shipping Pallets
We've seen shipping pallets turned into some amazing things, so no surprise to see them reconstituted into a semi-private room divider. Same prep rules for old doors apply here: sand them down and hinge them together. Consider using them as permanent partitions too, providing privacy while promoting light and air flow.
Vinyl LPs
Turn down the volume and listen up! Gather your old vinyl records, drill four holes in each, and attach them with either metal rings or string to create this ceiling suspended divider. You can paint the LPs or cover them in contact paper for a more unified, mod look. Leave them as is to add a Hard Rock Cafe vibe to your place. Rock on!
Window treatments are designed to keep people from peeking into your house or apartment, so why not hang them for indoor privacy? A pole or curtain rod suspended from the ceiling, some rings or hooks, and drapery panels are all you need to create some drama and division in your space. Best of all, you can easily close and open your curtains as needed.
This room divider creates definition without obstructing views and light—an important consideration if you have a small, dimly lit space. You can make it easily enough with some framing lumber, wood screws, finishing nails, and paint. Build it ceiling height to anchor securely.
Just like old doors, salvaged windows can make an artistic room divider. This one is made from nine-matching sashes, but you can create yours with different sized units and mis-matched designs. If you seek some privacy, just add a drape—they're windows after all.
Chalkboard Paint
Offering a playful, practical appeal, chalkboard paint lets you create a room divider that can also take notes. This divider is simple to make: just buy three pieces of cut plywood and hinges. Score some colored sidewalk chalk and you can change the look of it daily. Consider any number of chalkboard paint colors to make it even more of a stand-out!
The classic bookshelf can be one of the simplest room divers to make. The key to creating your desired look is where you place it, how you arrange items in it (create blocks of similarly sized and colored objects to de-clutter it) and whether it has a finished or unfinished back. Nothing more required than the ability to build one that arrives flat-shipped and ready to assemble.
Green Wall
A shelving system of green plants can do double duty in your living space by dividing the area while simultaneously bringing life to not just one, but two rooms.
Almost too good to be true, the colorful room dividers seen here are comprised of 55,000 Legos. A support system of bookshelves ensure the walls won't come crashing down if bumped into.
Natural Trees
Secured to a base, sturdy fallen trees and limbs can enact a natural room divider to soften a modern space or blend with a rustic room. Attach more densely to yield more privacy between spaces.
Twinkling Branches
This room divider separates and lends a warm atmosphere to the space. A simple DIY project even a beginner can handle, it requires only some basic lumber, some screws and wire, and a drill. Collect some twigs from the park or backyard and get those Christmas tree lights out. You'll be basking in its glow by dinnertime.
Related: 8 Things You Can Make with 2x4s
Hanging Out
This modern, chic look can be achieved simply and inexpensively with a DIY hanging hardboard divider. You can customize the color and pattern for your space, and make it exactly the size you need. Since it hangs, it requires no footprint. Reminiscent of the 70's beaded curtain, it will separate your space with big style.
Related: 14 Retro Home Trends It's Time to Revisit
Hardworking Headboard
Small spaces require creative furniture placement. With a bed oriented the right way, a beefed up headboard can double as a room divider. Choose something opaque to let light in, or use something more solid for extra privacy.
Related: 21 Ways to Make a Small Bedroom Big
Zillow Digs home in Portland, OR
For More...
If you're interested in more DIY solutions, consider:
11 Ways to Use Salvaged Wood in Your Home
10 Reasons to Go Crazy for Chalkboard Paint
Weekend Projects: 5 Creative Ways to Build Shelves
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Clever project ideas and step-by-step tutorials delivered right to your inbox each and every Saturday morning—sign up today for the Weekend DIY Club newsletter!


text:
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