text:
<guide> <header autonumber="true" camping="" access="The developed crags are on publicly owned Forestry and Crown land. The public land extends as far south as the Panopticon, but further south than that it is private. The range of hills to the north of the Colosseum is the southern boundary of the Buckland Military Training Area - stay out!

Please don't jeopardise access:
• Don't explore, climb or develop in the Military Training Area, or on private land without previously negotiating access with the landowners
• Don't block the roads, it really pisses people off. And don't leave any valuables in your car, as theft and vandalism here is a distinct possibility (although it hasn't happened yet).
• There are many obvious bird roosts on the cliffs, and Peregrine Falcons and Wedge Tail Eagles frequent the area. If you find a raptor nesting, keep away from the nest and out of line of sight, and let the climbing community know on thesarvo.com or the CCT facebook group.
• No fires
• Keep dogs under effective control no dogs are allowed on the private land of Panopticon South.
• Leave any fixed or stashed gear exactly as you found it - it all belongs to someone working hard to develop the crag.
• Drive reasonably on the road in - and slowly past the farmer's white house

A huge amount of effort has gone into developing the crags in a short amount of time. Even if you're not putting up new routes, you can do your bit to help by (re)-cleaning routes if you find them dirty or loose and improving the tracks by clearing loose rocks and sticks, improving track markings, etc, rather than whingeing about these things.

To get there:

1. Drive to Buckland, about 60km NE of Hobart on the A3, then turn left on the C318. After 3km, turn turn right onto Sand River Rd. About 8km along this the road takes a sharp left land turn, with some dirt tracks coming off it. This takes a bit under an hour from Hobart. Do not speed past the farmers house as he is allowing access to the Panopticon through his land. He is friendly and has a young child and a dog that plays near the road. Slow down and wave to them. It's the White House at the bottom of the hill, about 6km from the Sand River Road turn off..

2. Take the right hand sandy track and drive along this for another 500m to a flat clear parking area before it heads down hill, otherwise park at the start if you have a really low-slung car.

3. For the Firewall: Walk down the old fire trail for about 50m, and then follow a red taped track off left (marked with cairn) through the bracken then down the spur line (as for the Colosseum). The spur ends at the top of a small cliff (Riverside) just above the river. The left side of the Firewall area is visible about 100m to the north (left as you face downhill). The red taped track to the Colosseum continues down to the river to the north of Riverside, but part way along this descent, a yellow taped track leads off left about 100 metres across north to the Firewall, just over half a kilometre from the car and about 10mins walk.

4. For the Colosseum and Eldorado: Approach as per the Firewall, but keep going past Riverside Crag down to the river. There are two options from here.

 Red Taped Track - This track goes to the north, left hand end, of the Colosseum. It crosses the dry river bed immediately upstream from a fork in the river at 'Riverside'. After crossing the first river bed (this is the main 'Sand River' that flows past 'Floodland' and 'The Firewall'), the taped track continues north up second river valley (this is the valley with 'The Colosseum' and 'Eldorado' areas in it). Follow this second valley for about a kilometre through the dense forest which is surprisingly easy walking. Once you're down in the river bed you can't see much, but you will get glimpses of the west facing slabby cliffs up to the right (the left end is Eldorado). Keep following the tapes upstream to where the cliff changes direction to face north, and take the right fork of the stream. Cross the stream and follow the red tapes up the hill, arriving under the massive roof of Crossing the Rubicon, about 35-45 mins walk from the car, depending on your speed. To continue to 'Eldorado', it is an easy flat walk (about 3 to 5 minutes) along the base of the sandstone band past 'Plebians Wall'.

 Blue Taped Track - This track goes directly to the south (right hand) end of Eldorado Wall, about a kilometre from the car and is the quickest way to the cliffs. It crosses the dry river bed immediately downstream from the fork in the river at 'Riverside' and goes straight up the hillside opposite, arriving at the right end of 'Eldorado' at the base of the route 'Midas' Touch'. It takes 15-25 mins walk from the car, depending on your speed. To continue to 'The Colosseum', it is an easy flat walk (about 5 minutes) along the base of the sandstone band past 'Plebeians Wall'.

5. The Panopticon is in the next valley to the south of the Colosseum, south east of the parking area. Walk down (please do not drive down due to erosion!) the old logging track from the car park till the track turns to the right. Veer off left (marked with cairn) and follow a taped line (orange tape) down to the creek and then straight up the hill on the other side to the base of the cliff at the Jail House Rock. The developed crags are mostly to the left, about 30 mins walk from the car. Limited access to private land has been negotiated right to the (cooler) "Twin Towers" on the Western side. These cliffs are about 3 minutes walk right from Jail House Rock.

6. Connecting Track. (Pink Taped Track) - There is now a 'short-cut' track for easy access between Colosseum and the Panopticon tracks. This track takes the usually dry river bed (Sand River) and partly into the bush, running between the Blue Taped Track to the Colosseum and Elderado, and the main track to the Panopticon. The north end starts where the Blue Tape Track crosses the river, and continues to junction of the Orange Tape Track to the Panopticon, again where it crosses the river. Signage is being considered to help with directions!" history="The climbing potential of the Sand River area was discovered in early 2017 when Jon Nermut and Dave Humphries spent a wet day bashing through the bush and finding the crags that would become 'Eldorado' and 'The Colosseum' after noticing the escarpments on lidar maps. Realising the potential of the area, they generously arranged a tour to show other climbers the new area, and the first two routes were done - Terrastomp and Alea Jacta est.

After this the rate of development was staggering. In the first twelve months, over 150 routes were completed. Jon and Dave, along with Garry Phillips and Owen Gervasoni were active, developing the 'Firewall', 'Riverside' and 'Colosseum' areas.

Probably the most significant development for Hobart climbing, however, was the development of 'Plebeians Wall', 'Eldorado' and 'The Panopticon' by 'The Plebs'. The development of these areas has added something not previously available in southern Tasmania, crags with a concentration of well bolted sport routes in the mid teens to low twenties. Stuart Scott, Bob Bull, Tony McKenny, Chuck McGibbon, Dave Stephenson, Ben Maddison and Neale Smith have been the main drivers of this development.

While some might say that these crags should have been named 'Noosa', 'The Gold Coast' and 'The Sunshine Coast' given their obvious attraction to the retiree members of 'The Plebs', it was brilliant that the defined benefit pensions were re-invested in steel for the masses, rather than cocktails by the beach!

" intro="Sand River was discovered in 2017 and has yielded many good routes on some of the best sandstone in Tasmania. Yes, that's not saying much, but the rock here is surprisingly good. The crags are mostly north facing and sheltered from the wind, and are relatively warm and dry in winter. This area provides the best reliable winter climbing in the south of the state. However, avoid easterly wet weather. " acknowledgement="" rock="Sandstone 10 - 30m high." sun="Sunny" walk="10 - 50 minutes." name="Sand River" id="1"/> <image id="279" src="SRiver.jpg" height="530" width="400" legend="true" legendTitle="Stuart Scott and Tony McKenny enjoying retirement at Eldorado"/> <text class="indentedHeader" id="128">Safety:

PLEASE understand that this is a new cliff and there is loose rock everywhere! There is the potential for loose rock on most if not all of the climbs, so be careful. Wear a helmet and do not unnecessarily sit or stand under the cliff when others are climbing. It is NOT the gym.

• Sandstone can be deceptive – it may appear solid when it is in fact surprisingly fragile (especially when it's wet). As a result, most climbs are bolted (U bolts, not expansion), but if establishing trad routes, be aware that apparently solid small wires and cams may simply fail, shattering off crack edges and breaking thick flakes... and please, clean new routes if you are going to claim them!
• Due to the relatively remote location of the Sand River Crags, the CCT has located a first aid kit hanging in a red bag from the roof of the cave at the left-hand end of the Colosseum, near where the track comes up. The kit is for emergencies only, is fairly comprehensive and has bandages for snake bite. Should any of the kit contents be used please call 0408 122 394 and replacement/s will be arranged. Climbers visiting this (and other) areas should carry their own first aid supplies and means of communication – there has already been one serious accident on the crags.
• In the event of life threatening emergency or where it is unlikely that the victim can self-extricate call 000 to alert Ambulance & Police Services for rescue. Mobile Service is unreliable but may be obtained from locations such as south (right) of Plebeian's Wall. Consider carrying a personal location device if you are not on Telstra. Helicopter access is best from the clear area between the Colosseum and Plebeian Wall, and beside the Panopticon.

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This quite small crag is downhill to the left. There are no routes here yet, but there is potential for a couple of small ones, and it's quite close to the car.</text> <text class="heading2" id="3">The Firewall</text> <text class="text" id="4">The Firewall is a beautiful little crag of steep red and orange rock. Its north-easterly aspect sees sun until mid-afternoon, and the crag is sheltered from strong winds. It doesn't rain much in the area, but when it does most of the routes are steep enough that both the climbs and belay areas stay dry (although sections of the cliff may seep after prolonged heavy rain).
With a comfortable flat belay areas, a concentration of routes at a range of grades, and its relative closeness to Hobart, the Firewall is a great winter sport climbing crag.
Follow the taped track from the parking area (this track continues to the Colosseum). Routes are described from left to right.</text> <climb name="The Arsonist" id="265" stars="**" extra="Þ" number="1." length="12m" grade="17" fa="Jon Nermut, Dave Humphries, Jan 2018.">Takes the right hand side of the black and orange slab that's up to the left of Lucifer and where the track meets the cliff. Nice climbing.</climb> <climb name="Lucifer" id="106" stars="" extra="Þ" number="2." length="18m" grade="17" fa="Tony McKenny, Stu Scott 2017">Start up in the corner left of the direct start, up the slab to one U and then head right to the arete. Straight up from the U has been top roped, but you end up joining Lucifer at the arete anyway.</climb> <climb name="Lucifer Direct. " id="17" stars="*" extra="Þ" number="3." length="18m" grade="21" fa="Stu Scott, Tony McKenny, Justin Otlowski May 2017">Bouldery start through a bulge just near where the track meets the cliff, then head right to the arête and up.</climb> <text class="text" id="92">The access track from Riverside reaches the cliff just to the right of Lucifer Direct at a steep slab capped by a roof. The slab has a prominent crackline up its centre, and a left facing layback system on its right side.</text> <image id="119" src="fire2.jpg" height="1067" width="600" legend="true" legendTitle="Firewall" legendy="9" legendx="424"> <drawing> <path id="64200" linkedTo="93" d="M148.0,717.0C143.2,703.8 140.0,697.5 136.0,684.0C132.0,670.5 128.6,654.5 126.0,643.0C123.4,631.5 121.6,625.7 120.0,614.0C118.4,602.3 118.6,589.8 118.0,583.0C117.4,576.2 118.3,572.5 116.0,566.0C113.7,559.5 109.8,553.8 105.0,546.0C100.2,538.2 94.8,528.3 88.0,521.0C81.2,513.7 75.3,512.9 68.0,506.0C60.7,499.1 55.6,495.4 51.0,486.0C46.4,476.6 45.8,467.5 43.0,455.0C40.2,442.5 36.4,436.0 37.0,423.0C37.6,410.0 42.4,400.3 46.0,391.0C49.6,381.7 53.5,376.8 58.0,369.0C62.5,361.2 65.1,357.5 70.0,350.0C74.9,342.5 78.6,337.6 84.0,329.0C89.4,320.4 95.2,313.6 100.0,302.0C104.8,290.4 104.8,283.4 108.0,271.0" points="148,717, 136,684, 126,643, 120,614, 118,583, 116,566, 105,546, 88,521, 68,506, 51,486, 43,455, 37,423, 46,391, 58,369, 70,350, 84,329, 100,302, 108,271,lower"/> <path id="28734" linkedTo="94" d="M200.0,686.0C199.2,673.2 198.9,664.4 198.0,654.0C197.1,643.6 197.8,638.1 195.0,628.0C192.2,617.9 186.2,614.3 184.0,604.0C181.8,593.7 179.8,578.9 182.0,568.0C184.2,557.1 190.1,552.8 196.0,544.0C201.9,535.2 209.7,533.3 212.0,523.0C214.3,512.7 209.4,500.8 209.0,486.0C208.6,471.2 208.6,459.1 210.0,443.0C211.4,426.9 213.1,417.6 216.0,403.0C218.9,388.4 222.8,379.7 225.0,367.0C227.2,354.3 225.1,347.5 228.0,335.0C230.9,322.5 237.0,315.7 240.0,302.0C243.0,288.3 241.9,275.4 245.0,258.0C248.1,240.6 255.2,221.2 256.0,213.0C256.8,204.8 256.6,198.2 251.0,193.0C245.4,187.8 239.6,189.9 232.0,191.0C224.4,192.1 215.3,196.4 208.0,199.0C200.7,201.6 195.7,205.3 190.0,206.0C184.3,206.7 181.7,208.3 176.0,209.0C170.3,209.7 162.3,209.3 156.0,204.0C149.7,198.7 146.7,191.7 144.0,182.0C141.3,172.3 142.9,158.2 141.0,150.0C139.1,141.8 132.6,139.4 132.0,131.0C131.4,122.6 135.4,118.3 138.0,110.0C140.6,101.7 142.5,95.5 145.0,89.0C147.5,82.5 149.2,79.4 152.0,73.0" points="200,686, 198,654, 195,628, 184,604, 182,568, 196,544, 212,523, 209,486, 210,443, 216,403, 225,367, 228,335, 240,302, 245,258, 256,213, 251,193, 232,191, 208,199, 190,206, 176,209, 156,204, 144,182, 141,150, 132,131, 138,110, 145,89, 152,73,lower"/> <path id="89212" linkedTo="95" d="M274.0,676.0C274.8,660.4 276.4,649.5 276.0,637.0C275.6,624.5 274.1,617.3 272.0,606.0C269.9,594.7 266.4,588.7 265.0,578.0C263.6,567.3 263.5,561.7 265.0,551.0C266.5,540.3 271.0,529.5 274.0,515.0C277.0,500.5 276.5,491.2 280.0,478.0C283.5,464.8 287.3,458.8 292.0,446.0C296.7,433.2 299.9,423.5 304.0,413.0C308.1,402.5 312.9,398.1 315.0,387.0C317.1,375.9 315.0,362.5 316.0,348.0C317.0,333.5 318.4,326.4 320.0,312.0C321.6,297.6 323.3,287.2 324.0,274.0C324.7,260.8 325.3,249.9 324.0,241.0C322.7,232.1 317.3,228.9 316.0,220.0C314.7,211.1 315.3,196.3 316.0,187.0C316.7,177.7 318.4,173.2 320.0,164.0" points="274,676, 276,637, 272,606, 265,578, 265,551, 274,515, 280,478, 292,446, 304,413, 315,387, 316,348, 320,312, 324,274, 324,241, 316,220, 316,187, 320,164,lower"/> </drawing> <legend> <climb>93</climb> <climb>94</climb> <climb>95</climb> </legend> </image> <climb id="403" stars="" extra="" number="4." name="Project RS" length="10m" grade="" fa="">Where the track meets the cliff, on the far left of the overhang.</climb> <climb name="Unquenched" id="93" stars="**" extra="4Þ" number="5." length="8m" grade="22" fa="O Gervasoni August 2017">Start just left of the crackline. Crank leftwards onto the overhanging rounded arête, then up and over bulge via pockets and horizontals to slab (DBB). Lower off, or step right to finish as for Welcome to the Dark Ages.</climb> <climb name="Welcome to the Dark Ages" id="94" stars="**" extra="9Þ" number="6." length="19m" grade="21" fa="O Gervasoni, August 2017">Start up the prominent crack line. A tricky layback sequence leads to the overlap. Make a technical traverse 4m left then finish up the pillar / arête feature to DBB.
</climb> <climb name="Project OG" id="95" stars="" extra="4Þ" number="7." length="8m" grade="" fa="">The tendon tearing steep slab of impeccable stone underneath the roof.</climb> <image id="118" src="fire1.jpg" height="1067" width="600" legend="true" legendTitle="Firewall" legendy="14" legendx="422"> <drawing> <path id="91036" linkedTo="96" d="M233.0,827.0C229.4,813.8 224.4,807.7 224.0,794.0C223.6,780.3 228.2,767.4 231.0,756.0C233.8,744.6 238.5,739.7 240.0,728.0C241.5,716.3 242.3,705.7 239.0,695.0C235.7,684.3 227.1,682.4 223.0,672.0C218.9,661.6 217.3,645.3 214.0,632.0C210.7,618.7 209.5,611.9 205.0,599.0C200.5,586.1 192.8,580.2 191.0,566.0C189.2,551.8 192.3,536.5 196.0,526.0C199.7,515.5 206.2,512.8 213.0,504.0C219.8,495.2 231.2,486.1 238.0,472.0C244.8,457.9 244.8,449.5 247.0,434.0C249.2,418.5 249.1,402.0 250.0,388.0C250.9,374.0 248.8,363.1 252.0,353.0C255.2,342.9 262.8,341.0 268.0,332.0C273.2,323.0 276.0,318.2 278.0,308.0C280.0,297.8 279.7,289.4 279.0,277.0C278.3,264.6 279.6,254.8 280.0,240.0" points="233,827, 224,794, 231,756, 240,728, 239,695, 223,672, 214,632, 205,599, 191,566, 196,526, 213,504, 238,472, 247,434, 250,388, 252,353, 268,332, 278,308, 279,277, 280,240,lower"/> <path id="36129" linkedTo="26" d="M244.0,656.0C244.0,643.6 242.9,635.6 244.0,625.0C245.1,614.4 247.3,609.3 250.0,599.0C252.7,588.7 250.8,574.7 259.0,567.0C267.2,559.3 279.8,564.3 287.0,564.0C294.2,563.7 299.2,569.3 305.0,565.0C310.8,560.7 312.7,553.0 314.0,544.0C315.3,535.0 311.8,526.9 312.0,516.0C312.2,505.1 316.1,499.8 315.0,489.0C313.9,478.2 308.9,470.1 306.0,459.0C303.1,447.9 301.5,442.4 300.0,431.0C298.5,419.6 298.3,412.4 298.0,400.0C297.7,387.6 296.8,359.8 298.0,350.0C299.2,340.2 308.0,336.8 307.0,327.0C306.0,317.2 292.7,303.4 292.0,291.0C291.3,278.6 295.0,264.6 297.0,254.0C299.0,243.4 301.8,238.3 304.0,228.0C306.2,217.7 304.2,207.0 308.0,202.0C311.8,197.0 319.2,192.0 323.0,187.0C326.8,182.0 331.4,182.9 337.0,180.0C342.6,177.1 351.0,173.8 358.0,169.0C365.0,164.2 370.1,162.5 374.0,155.0C377.9,147.5 376.0,141.6 376.0,134.0C376.0,126.4 374.2,122.6 374.0,115.0C373.8,107.4 373.7,92.4 375.0,84.0C376.3,75.6 379.2,72.0 382.0,64.0" points="244,656, 244,625, 250,599, 259,567, 287,564, 305,565, 314,544, 312,516, 315,489, 306,459, 300,431, 298,400, 298,350, 307,327, 292,291, 297,254, 304,228, 308,202, 323,187, 337,180, 358,169, 374,155, 376,134, 374,115, 375,84, 382,64,lower"/> </drawing> <legend> <climb>96</climb> <climb>26</climb> </legend> </image> <climb name="Branded and Shackled" id="96" stars="" extra="5Þ" number="8." length="10m" grade="19" fa="O Gervasoni, July 2017">Shares the initial bouldery start with Glowing Embers, but instead of moving right, mantles left onto the wall above. Once established, climb up the steep wall to a slopey anchor clip.</climb> <climb name="Glowing Embers" id="26" stars="**" extra="9Þ" number="9." length="18m" grade="22" fa="O Gervasoni, May 2017">On the left end of the main overhanging 'Fire Wall'. Boulder up the short left arete then trend right on immaculate rock to a rest at the base of a pillar. Up pillar to roof, and a strenuous pull on flakes.</climb> <climb name="Flash Point" id="81" stars="**" extra="Þ" number="10." length="18m" grade="26/27" fa="G Phillips 2017">As for Gambit but at the second last bolt head left to a slightly easier finish.</climb> <climb name="Gambit" id="126" stars="**" extra="Þ" number="11." length="18m" grade="26/27" fa="G Phillips 2017">As for Firewall to the ledge. Then head left and up.</climb> <image id="120" src="fire3.jpg" height="1067" width="600" legend="true" legendTitle="Firewall" legendy="5" legendx="6"> <drawing> <path id="6751" linkedTo="19" d="M29.0,1016.0C27.0,1000.0 26.7,991.9 24.0,976.0C21.3,960.1 16.5,948.3 15.0,934.0C13.5,919.7 9.9,911.0 16.0,898.0C22.1,885.0 37.1,885.6 44.0,872.0C50.9,858.4 58.7,823.9 62.0,807.0C65.3,790.1 66.0,781.2 65.0,764.0C64.0,746.8 60.6,736.9 57.0,719.0C53.4,701.1 46.2,677.1 44.0,660.0C41.8,642.9 43.7,628.6 44.0,617.0C44.3,605.4 43.0,599.2 46.0,588.0C49.0,576.8 52.2,570.3 59.0,560.0C65.8,549.7 73.4,543.2 83.0,532.0C92.6,520.8 101.1,514.8 110.0,501.0C118.9,487.2 127.8,477.6 128.0,462.0C128.2,446.4 117.7,437.9 111.0,427.0C104.3,416.1 93.9,411.4 91.0,402.0C88.1,392.6 90.7,386.2 96.0,378.0C101.3,369.8 111.5,369.3 118.0,360.0C124.5,350.7 130.8,329.8 135.0,322.0C139.2,314.2 146.7,312.8 148.0,304.0C149.3,295.2 144.5,284.6 142.0,276.0C139.5,267.4 134.4,262.6 134.0,255.0C133.6,247.4 139.0,244.5 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bulges.</climb> <image id="121" src="fire4.jpg" height="1067" width="600" legend="true" legendTitle="Firewall" legendy="897" legendx="19"> <drawing> <path id="53104" linkedTo="28" d="M224.0,981.0C228.8,964.6 232.9,956.8 236.0,940.0C239.1,923.2 238.7,913.0 240.0,895.0C241.3,877.0 240.0,863.0 243.0,843.0C246.0,823.0 252.9,811.9 255.0,794.0C257.1,776.1 254.7,759.1 254.0,749.0C253.3,738.9 250.2,734.1 250.0,724.0C249.8,713.9 250.7,696.8 253.0,684.0C255.3,671.2 260.2,665.7 263.0,653.0C265.8,640.3 265.9,631.6 267.0,620.0C268.1,608.4 269.6,602.4 269.0,591.0C268.4,579.6 264.8,574.3 264.0,563.0C263.2,551.7 266.8,545.4 265.0,534.0C263.2,522.6 258.4,515.5 255.0,507.0C251.6,498.5 249.5,493.7 246.0,486.0C242.5,478.3 240.4,474.7 237.0,467.0C233.6,459.3 232.6,453.3 228.0,445.0C223.4,436.7 216.1,430.8 213.0,423.0C209.9,415.2 209.9,410.4 211.0,402.0C212.1,393.6 216.8,386.8 219.0,377.0C221.2,367.2 221.8,361.2 222.0,352.0C222.2,342.8 225.3,335.6 220.0,329.0C214.7,322.4 210.3,320.6 205.0,314.0C199.7,307.4 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484,626, 484,579, 456,542, 417,498, 412,428, 397,385, 392,328, 386,296, 367,228, 381,179, 381,138, 348,96, 300,65, 290,32, 288,4,"/> </drawing> <legend> <climb>19</climb> <climb>28</climb> <climb>91</climb> <climb>97</climb> </legend> </image> <climb name="Thor's Hammer" id="91" stars="***" extra="Þ" number="14." length="17m" grade="26" fa="Garry Phillips Aug 2017">Easy climbing leads to a bouldery crux.</climb> <climb name="Adam Project" id="97" stars="" extra="Þ" number="15." length="" grade="" fa=""/> <text class="text" id="127">To the right of Thor's Hammer, the crag curves and becomes southeast facing. The rock in this section isn't of the same cleanliness or quality as the routes further left, but features some good climbing at more achievable grades.</text> <climb name="Deputy Warden" id="102" stars="**" extra="5Þ" number="16." length="8m" grade="12" fa="O Gervasoni, September 2017">Towards the right end of the Firewall is an 8m high buttress under the main wall. On its right side is a featured slab. Get established, moving left onto the slab proper. Up to DBB.</climb> <climb name="The Towering Inferno" id="103" stars="**" extra="11Þ" number="17." length="18m" grade="14" fa="O Gervasoni, September 2017">Remarkably steep and exposed for the grade. Start as for Deputy Warden, but continue straight up the corner. At the top of the sub-buttress move boldly right onto the main wall, and continue up the exposed arête and corner above.</climb> <text class="heading2" id="212">Floodland</text> <text class="text" id="215">Floodland is located 3 or 4 minutes further up the dry river bed past the Fire Wall. It is on the opposite side of the valley, so offers shade when the Fire Wall is in sun (before about 1pm to 2pm), and visa versa. Access as for the Fire Wall, but about 20 metres before the path arrives at the Fire Wall proper, head down to the river bed. Walk upstream for about 3 minutes. The climbs start right out of the (dry) river bed. There is scope for 2 or 3 routes to the left of the route Floodland with a little cleaning, and scope for 2 or 3 to the right of HM&M with an epic amount of cleaning.
</text> <climb name="Floodland" id="213" stars="**" extra="8Þ" number="18." length="16m" grade="23" fa="Owen Gervasoni, Nov 2017">Shares the first 2 bolts with HM&M, then offers a thin and technical rising leftward traverse followed by a punchy steep finish to anchor chain. There is a fixed biner on the third bolt for the leader to clip through when lowering (to save from a potential big awkward swing).</climb> <climb name="Hot Metal and Methedrine" id="214" stars="*" extra="12Þ" number="19." length="25m" grade="23" fa="Owen Gervasoni, Nov 2017">Good looking line that has its moments. Up through overlap and shallow left facing corner feature. Step left and climb thin face before some interesting steep moves through the summit overhang.</climb> <text class="heading2" id="5">Riverside Crag</text> <text class="text" id="6">Riverside Crag is a series of short walls to the south of the junction of Sand River and the fork that heads up towards the Colosseum. You go past the northern end of it on taped track to the Colosseum, just after the turn off to the Firewall. It's shadier than most of the other crags.</text> <text class="heading3" id="165">Riverside Main</text> <text class="text" id="166">Keep going left around the corner form the first bit to find the main wall. It has partial shade until about 1pm then full shade after that.</text> <climb name="Copperhead" id="252" stars="*" extra="3Þ" number="20." length="8m" grade="21" fa="Jon Nermut, Jan 2018.">The short, steep and fun arete left from The Tiger Snake.</climb> <climb name="The Tiger Snake" id="222" stars="*" extra="Þ" number="21." length="12m" grade="22" fa="Jon Nermut, Dave Humphries, Dec 2017.">The left arete of the main face. Do a high stick clip to protect the bouldery start on the right, then head left past a big heuco to the arete and up.</climb> <climb name="Streamline" id="210" stars="*" extra="Þ" number="22." length="15m" grade="21" fa="Roger Parkyn, Owen Gervasoni. Nov 2017. ">Follow the straight line.</climb> <climb name="The Diving Board" id="176" stars="**" extra="Þ" number="23." length="15m" grade="23" fa="Dave Humphries, Jan 2018.">Up the middle of the wall, to a steep cruxy bulge.</climb> <climb name="Grey Goshawk" id="167" stars="*" extra="Þ" number="24." length="15m" grade="22" fa="Dave Humphries, Jon Nermut, Nov 2017.">The wall a couple of metres to the R of previous. Juggy to start with, then thinner on the grey headwall at the top.</climb> <climb name="Currawong" id="249" stars="**" extra="6Þ" number="25." length="15m" grade="18" fa="Jon Nermut, Jan 2018.">Start as for Grey Goshawk, then head right to fun, juggy climbing just to the left of the Blackwood tree.</climb> <text class="heading3" id="136">Riverside Right</text> <text class="text" id="137">This is the sunny, north facing bit that the track goes right past.</text> <climb name="Eastern Quoll" id="138" stars="*" extra="5Þ" number="26." length="12m" grade="23" fa="Dave Humphries, Jon Nermut, Oct 2017.">A hard bouldery start leads to face climbing, then head right to the last two bolts of Spotted Tail Quoll.</climb> <climb name="Spotted Tail Quoll" id="139" stars="*" extra="5Þ" number="27." length="12m" grade="19" fa="Dave Humphries, Jon Nermut, Oct 2017.">Follow the seam, with a tricky move right at the top.</climb> <text class="heading2" id="9">The Colosseum</text> <text class="text" id="10">The Colosseum is a very steep north facing crag about 35 minutes walk from the car. The rock is excellent, with some of the best steep sandstone in Tasmania.</text> <text class="heading3" id="52">Superunknown Buttress</text> <text class="text" id="356">A buttress chock full of vertical to slightly overhanging face climbs for those operating in the low 20's. North facing, and sheltered from the wind, a perfect spot on a sunny winters day. Its located at the far left of the Colosseum, about 200m from the big roof of Crossing the Rubicon and 50m past Terrastomp Buttress.</text> <image id="76" src="IMG_2954.JPG" height="600" width="800" legend="true" legendy="22" legendx="619"> <drawing> <path id="44499" linkedTo="77" d="M187.0,334.0C192.6,290.0 197.8,253.9 201.0,224.0C204.2,194.1 200.1,178.3 207.0,149.0C213.9,119.7 233.4,66.8 251.0,12.0" points="187,334, 201,224, 207,149, 251,12,lower"/> <path id="1183" linkedTo="54" d="M246.0,401.0C266.0,342.6 284.1,294.8 296.0,255.0C307.9,215.2 315.6,194.2 320.0,154.0C324.4,113.8 318.8,93.4 318.0,53.0" points="246,401, 296,255, 320,154, 318,53,lower"/> <path id="81228" linkedTo="55" d="M368.0,544.0C368.4,460.0 363.7,371.4 369.0,334.0C374.3,296.6 399.6,276.8 410.0,249.0C420.4,221.2 425.7,206.6 428.0,177.0C430.3,147.4 429.4,109.2 423.0,84.0C416.6,58.8 403.2,50.4 390.0,28.0" points="368,544, 369,334, 410,249, 428,177, 423,84, 390,28,lower"/> <rect style="yellow_outline" id="42495" height="80" width="100" text="Write some text" y="26058" x="185"/> <path id="45628" d="M121.0,29468.0C111.4,29462.8 106.6,29460.2 97.0,29455.0" points="121,29468, 97,29455,"/> <path id="43612" d="M107.0,29422.0" points="107,29422,"/> <path id="31598" linkedTo="331" d="M779.0,573.0C774.6,537.0 769.2,501.0 768.0,483.0C766.8,465.0 772.4,453.0 770.0,438.0C767.6,423.0 762.2,416.4 755.0,403.0C747.8,389.6 739.8,380.1 734.0,371.0C728.2,361.9 727.7,355.5 720.0,348.0C712.3,340.5 705.9,339.0 696.0,334.0C686.1,329.0 678.2,329.2 669.0,322.0C659.8,314.8 657.6,308.6 651.0,299.0C644.4,289.4 641.7,281.6 634.0,271.0C626.3,260.4 607.2,244.8 605.0,236.0C602.8,227.2 619.2,226.0 621.0,220.0C622.8,214.0 616.8,211.6 614.0,206.0C611.2,200.4 604.2,196.0 605.0,188.0C605.8,180.0 619.1,174.1 618.0,167.0C616.9,159.9 611.1,158.1 610.0,151.0C608.9,143.9 606.8,140.3 602.0,135.0C597.2,129.7 592.2,127.7 586.0,124.0C579.8,120.3 575.4,120.7 570.0,116.0C564.6,111.3 559.7,100.3 551.0,94.0C542.3,87.7 531.2,89.7 526.0,84.0C520.8,78.3 518.8,75.0 514.0,69.0" points="779,573,label 768,483, 770,438, 755,403, 734,371, 720,348, 696,334, 669,322, 651,299, 634,271, 605,236, 621,220, 614,206, 605,188, 618,167, 610,151, 602,135, 586,124, 570,116, 551,94, 526,84, 514,69,lower"/> <path id="65830" linkedTo="355" d="M440.0,231.0C450.0,219.4 461.3,208.3 465.0,202.0C468.7,195.7 462.4,188.7 468.0,184.0C473.6,179.3 487.7,181.2 492.0,179.0C496.3,176.8 499.7,179.2 504.0,177.0C508.3,174.8 512.1,159.7 517.0,155.0C521.9,150.3 526.3,150.4 533.0,149.0C539.7,147.6 547.7,154.4 550.0,148.0C552.3,141.6 544.7,130.6 542.0,124.0C539.3,117.4 536.7,114.6 534.0,108.0C531.3,101.4 531.2,89.7 526.0,84.0" points="440,231, 465,202, 468,184, 492,179, 504,177, 517,155, 533,149, 550,148, 542,124, 534,108, 526,84,"/> <path id="90514" linkedTo="354" d="M499.0,143.0C491.8,125.4 485.7,108.2 481.0,99.0C476.3,89.8 471.8,86.5 466.0,78.0C460.2,69.5 454.0,60.0 446.0,48.0" points="499,143, 481,99, 466,78, 446,48,lower"/> </drawing> <legend> <climb>77</climb> <climb>54</climb> <climb>55</climb> <climb>354</climb> <climb>355</climb> <climb>331</climb> </legend> </image> <climb name="Dangeresque" id="77" stars="*" extra="6Þ" number="28." length="10m" grade="22" fa="Dave Humphries July 2017">Start on the stepped ledge. Clip the first bolt on Cleganebowl then head for the arete.</climb> <climb name="Cleganebowl " id="54" stars="**" extra="Þ" number="29." length="12m" grade="22" fa="Jon Nermut, Aug 2017.">Get hype. The smaller buttress to the left of the wall provides good steep climbing.</climb> <climb name="De Double Doosh" id="55" stars="**" extra="10Þ" number="30." length="15m" grade="23" fa="Dave Humphries Jul 2017.">Interesting technical climbing. Climb the wall, using the arête to finish.</climb> <climb name="Grading Day" id="354" stars="*" extra="11Þ" number="31." length="17m" grade="24" fa="Owen Gervasoni, April 2018">A great sequence of moves characterise this direct finish. Possibly an easy tick for the grade for the thin wall specialists. Start as for DDD, moving right into hanging corner at overlap. Straight up thin wall above.</climb> <climb name="Making the Grade" id="355" stars="**" extra="12Þ" number="32." length="19m" grade="21" fa="Owen Gervasoni, April 2018">A sustained journey starting as for DDD to the captive quickdraw, then climbing diagonally right above the lip of the cave and finishing at the MOM loweroff. Clip the captive quickdraw on DDD when lowering of to safely clean the draws of the route.</climb> <climb name="Mouth of Madness" id="331" stars="**" extra="Þ" number="33." length="18m" grade="18" fa="Owen Gervasoni, Mar 2018">Excellent varied climbing on the wall right of the central cave.</climb> <text class="heading3" id="11">Terrastomp Buttress</text> <image id="16" src="IMG_2852.JPG" height="1067" legend="true" legendTitle="Terrastomp" legendy="15" legendx="16"> <drawing> <path id="49730" linkedTo="13" d="M275.0,1042.0C274.6,919.6 256.2,851.6 274.0,736.0C291.8,620.4 348.9,509.9 365.0,458.0C381.1,406.1 384.9,378.9 401.0,327.0C417.1,275.1 441.2,207.0 468.0,127.0" points="275,1042, 274,736, 365,458, 401,327, 468,127,lower"/> <path id="5234" linkedTo="98" d="M120.0,1050.0C167.6,889.6 211.1,743.7 239.0,649.0C266.9,554.3 296.3,458.1 308.0,412.0C319.7,365.9 319.8,341.6 329.0,295.0C338.2,248.4 347.6,207.4 360.0,149.0" points="120,1050, 239,649, 308,412, 329,295, 360,149,lower"/> <path id="62572" linkedTo="99" d="M652.0,1039.0C634.0,859.4 615.7,678.8 607.0,590.0C598.3,501.2 580.7,450.1 586.0,368.0C591.3,285.9 614.8,248.0 634.0,168.0" points="652,1039, 607,590, 586,368, 634,168,lower"/> </drawing> <legend> <climb>98</climb> <climb>13</climb> <climb>99</climb> </legend> </image> <text class="text" id="12">Head around left from the main amphitheatre, past the scramble up to the top, to the next bit of good rock.</text> <climb id="390" stars="" extra="" number="34." name="Terra Firma" length="15m" grade="17" fa="B. Armstrong, J. Gauldi, June 2018">The clean corner featuring an offwidth and a finger crack. Surmount the ledge, continue up the crack system (with minimal thrutching) then traverse off right to the Terradactyl DBB.</climb> <climb name="Terradactyl" id="98" stars="" extra="6Þ" number="35." length="15m" grade="23" fa="Jon Nermut, Dave Humphries, May 2018.">The nice looking slab to the left of Terrastomp is let down by having one hard thin move and a bit of a scrappy start.</climb> <climb name="Terrastomp" id="13" stars="**" extra="4Þ" number="36." length="10m" grade="19" fa="Dave Humphries, Jon Nermut, Apr 2017.">The lovely short arête. The first route at Sand River.</climb> <climb name="The Cheat" id="99" stars="*" extra="Þ" number="37." length="8m" grade="20" fa="Dave Humphries, Aug 2017.">Steep and fun juggy climbing to the right of Terrastomp, with a harder move right at the top.</climb> <text class="heading3" id="20">The Cave Sector</text> <text class="text" id="21">The left hand side of the Colosseum is capped by an enormous roof.</text> <climb name="#Nero" id="68" stars="*" extra="Þ" number="38." length="7m" grade="24" fa="Garry Phillips May 2017">A very short route finishing at the big horizontal break, at the far left side of the cave.</climb> <climb name="Hydra" id="135" stars="*" extra="" number="39." length="20m" grade="20" fa="Sammi Dos & Fraser Labine-Romain 24/09/2017">Gear protectable crack in the middle of the colosseum wall. Hardest moves are at the start, followed by sustained climbing. Be careful exiting, there is minimal gear and a abundance of lichen.</climb> <image id="46" src="rubicon.JPG" height="1067" width="800" legend="true" legendTitle="Cave Sector Right Side" legendy="18" legendx="14"> <drawing> <path id="14716" linkedTo="34" d="M735.0,847.0C709.0,735.4 689.7,624.4 670.0,568.0C650.3,511.6 618.4,469.7 593.0,440.0C567.6,410.3 550.6,394.5 513.0,384.0C475.4,373.5 371.2,379.4 349.0,372.0C326.8,364.6 327.4,333.0 322.0,320.0C316.6,307.0 313.6,300.1 313.0,286.0C312.4,271.9 311.8,226.4 316.0,187.0C320.2,147.6 327.4,121.6 335.0,78.0" points="735,847, 670,568, 593,440, 513,384, 349,372, 322,320, 313,286, 316,187, 335,78,lower"/> </drawing> <legend> <climb>34</climb> </legend> </image> <climb id="388" stars="**" extra="6Þ" number="40." name="A Bridge Too Far" length="12m" grade="23/24" fa="Owen Gervasoni, June 2018">This steep little number climbs out of the cave about 6m left of the start of Crossing The Rubicon. Powerful start to an awkward rest. Then a technical traverse to the lip. Has fixed quickdraws to make cleaning straightforward.</climb> <climb name="Crossing the Rubicon" id="34" stars="***" extra="11Þ" number="41." length="20m" grade="20" fa="Stu Scott and Tony McKenny, May 2017">A highly entertaining climb with terrific positions. Start at far right hand side of the cave. Bouldery start up the corner (stick clipping the second bolt is the way to go) then traverse out left along the very lip of the roof. Follow the thin crack past the slab and the final overhang.</climb> <climb name="Project" id="50" stars="" extra="" number="42." length="" grade="" fa="Stu and Tony">Line continuing from end of CTR traverse, then up middle of slab</climb> <text class="heading3" id="15">The Orange Sector</text> <text class="text" id="22">Around the middle of the Colosseum, on either side of where the creek flows down, is a sector of beautiful orange rock.</text> <climb name="Caligula Direct" id="310" stars="" extra="Þ" number="43." length="7m" grade="25" fa="G Phillips 3/18">Starts 5m left of Caligula. Steep bouldery climbing.</climb> <climb name="#Caligula" id="105" stars="**" extra="Þ" number="44." length="15m" grade="25/26" fa="Garry Phillips 24/8/17">Starts directly under the waterfall. Up the wall above to a vague shake in the corner/scoop. Traverse left via some super cool moves.
</climb> <image id="47" src="orange_sector.JPG" height="1096" width="800" legend="true" legendTitle="Orange Sector" legendy="15" legendx="623"> <drawing> <path id="66589" linkedTo="14" d="M303.0,862.0C343.0,812.0 376.1,795.1 403.0,737.0C429.9,678.9 450.0,599.0 469.0,504.0C488.0,409.0 496.0,311.4 514.0,183.0" points="303,862, 403,737, 469,504, 514,183,lower"/> <path id="57119" linkedTo="29" d="M209.0,756.0C259.0,647.6 308.7,546.8 334.0,485.0C359.3,423.2 383.6,354.1 385.0,326.0C386.4,297.9 319.6,318.8 324.0,291.0C328.4,263.2 386.4,148.2 428.0,53.0" points="209,756,label 334,485, 385,326, 324,291,label 428,53,lower"/> <path id="64904" linkedTo="30" d="M384.0,327.0C385.4,298.9 396.2,285.6 407.0,259.0C417.8,232.4 442.4,178.0 466.0,124.0" points="384,327, 407,259,label 466,124,lower"/> <path id="79330" d="M409.0,269.0" points="409,269,"/> <path id="67601" d="" points=""/> </drawing> <legend> <climb>29</climb> <climb>30</climb> <climb>14</climb> </legend> </image> <climb name="Hercules" id="29" stars="***" extra="Þ" number="45." length="15m" grade="25" fa="G Phillips May 2017">Through the small roof to the break. Then the wall above.</climb> <climb name="Hercules Returns" id="30" stars="**" extra="Þ" number="46." length="15m" grade="26" fa="Garry Phillips 2017">The direct finish to Hercules. A vicious thin boulder sequence leads to the victory jugs.</climb> <climb name="Alea Jacta est" id="14" stars="***" extra="Þ" number="47." length="15m" grade="23" fa="Garry Phillips, Apr 2017.">On the most orange of rock in the main amphitheatre.</climb> <climb name="Alea Jacta est Right Hand Finish" id="48" stars="**" extra="Þ" number="48." length="15m" grade="23" fa="G. Phillips, May 2017">From the small corner system half way up Alea Jacta est, traverse right along the break and up. More sustained but less cruxy than the Alea Jacta est.</climb> <climb id="389" stars="" extra="Þ" number="49." name="Project" length="15m" grade="" fa="">Project - Jon & Dave - Starts through the right hand end of the overhang, then takes the corner/seam above, finishing at the Alea Jacta est RHF anchors.</climb> <climb name="Romani Ite Domum" id="117" stars="" extra="Þ" number="50." length="12m" grade="21" fa="Dave Humphries, Jon Nermut, Sep 2017">Arete/wall left of the steep crack feature that divides the Orange from the Black.</climb> <text class="heading3" id="23">The Black Sector</text> <text class="text" id="24">The right hand side of the main Colosseum area is a mainly black wall with a white face covered with pockets to start.

This sector is north facing, but due to its steepness, the routes and belay areas are in shade all day during summer.</text> <image id="100" src="black2.jpg" height="863" width="800" legend="true" legendTitle="Black Sector LHS" legendy="12" legendx="13"> <drawing> <path id="89883" linkedTo="32" d="M516.0,725.0C512.8,713.0 510.9,707.1 508.0,695.0C505.1,682.9 501.6,673.3 501.0,662.0C500.4,650.7 501.7,644.8 505.0,634.0C508.3,623.2 517.4,615.5 519.0,603.0C520.6,590.5 514.9,580.1 513.0,572.0C511.1,563.9 506.2,560.3 507.0,552.0C507.8,543.7 516.2,535.3 518.0,523.0C519.8,510.7 515.6,501.5 516.0,489.0C516.4,476.5 518.3,468.9 520.0,458.0C521.7,447.1 523.7,440.5 525.0,431.0C526.3,421.5 529.5,416.3 527.0,407.0C524.5,397.7 518.4,389.0 512.0,383.0C505.6,377.0 499.4,378.6 492.0,374.0" points="516,725, 508,695, 501,662, 505,634, 519,603, 513,572, 507,552, 518,523, 516,489, 520,458, 525,431, 527,407, 512,383, 492,374,lower"/> <path id="54752" linkedTo="40" d="M492.0,374.0C484.6,369.4 469.3,360.6 464.0,353.0C458.7,345.4 460.0,338.6 461.0,330.0C462.0,321.4 474.0,317.0 469.0,310.0C464.0,303.0 472.7,297.0 475.0,289.0C477.3,281.0 478.9,277.1 481.0,269.0C483.1,260.9 486.0,248.3 488.0,238.0C490.0,227.7 491.3,220.0 492.0,212.0C492.7,204.0 492.6,200.0 492.0,192.0C491.4,184.0 489.5,169.5 488.0,161.0C486.5,152.5 485.2,148.3 483.0,140.0C480.8,131.7 479.9,117.1 474.0,109.0C468.1,100.9 461.4,100.5 452.0,97.0C442.6,93.5 426.1,90.1 421.0,89.0C415.9,87.9 413.1,88.1 408.0,87.0" points="492,374, 464,353, 461,330, 469,310, 475,289, 481,269, 488,238, 492,212, 492,192,label 488,161, 483,140, 474,109, 452,97, 421,89, 408,87,lower"/> <path id="77050" linkedTo="66" d="M701.0,707.0C699.8,698.2 701.1,693.3 698.0,685.0C694.9,676.7 690.7,669.9 684.0,661.0C677.3,652.1 669.7,648.3 664.0,640.0C658.3,631.7 656.5,626.7 654.0,617.0C651.5,607.3 650.0,600.8 651.0,590.0C652.0,579.2 655.3,573.6 659.0,563.0C662.7,552.4 667.4,540.3 672.0,530.0C676.6,519.7 679.3,514.7 685.0,505.0C690.7,495.3 701.0,488.2 705.0,474.0C709.0,459.8 703.6,451.4 704.0,437.0C704.4,422.6 707.9,411.8 707.0,401.0C706.1,390.2 702.9,385.2 699.0,375.0C695.1,364.8 691.6,353.8 684.0,341.0C676.4,328.2 666.5,320.2 660.0,309.0C653.5,297.8 647.2,291.9 648.0,279.0C648.8,266.1 654.8,255.2 664.0,242.0C673.2,228.8 684.5,223.8 694.0,213.0C703.5,202.2 709.2,196.7 715.0,184.0C720.8,171.3 724.0,163.9 723.0,150.0C722.0,136.1 713.9,126.6 710.0,117.0C706.1,107.4 706.1,97.3 700.0,93.0C693.9,88.7 691.1,86.3 685.0,82.0C678.9,77.7 673.6,84.5 666.0,86.0C658.4,87.5 646.9,90.0 635.0,92.0C623.1,94.0 612.7,98.0 605.0,96.0C597.3,94.0 594.7,88.5 592.0,81.0C589.3,73.5 591.0,65.0 591.0,57.0C591.0,49.0 591.6,45.0 592.0,37.0" points="701,707, 698,685, 684,661, 664,640, 654,617, 651,590, 659,563, 672,530, 685,505, 705,474, 704,437, 707,401, 699,375, 684,341, 660,309, 648,279, 664,242, 694,213, 715,184, 723,150, 710,117, 700,93, 685,82, 666,86, 635,92, 605,96, 592,81, 591,57, 592,37,lower"/> <path id="88458" linkedTo="117" d="M165.0,643.0C183.8,596.6 202.7,563.9 212.0,527.0C221.3,490.1 222.2,465.3 218.0,432.0C213.8,398.7 192.5,386.4 190.0,353.0C187.5,319.6 197.8,282.2 203.0,235.0" points="165,643, 212,527, 218,432, 190,353, 203,235,lower"/> <path id="94391" linkedTo="233" d="M473.0,296.0C468.0,289.0 441.2,284.4 422.0,285.0C402.8,285.6 389.4,291.0 376.0,299.0C362.6,307.0 358.9,319.3 350.0,328.0C341.1,336.7 335.9,343.5 326.0,348.0C316.1,352.5 307.7,357.5 299.0,351.0C290.3,344.5 286.0,328.4 280.0,314.0C274.0,299.6 271.8,290.4 268.0,277.0C264.2,263.6 262.4,256.8 260.0,243.0C257.6,229.2 256.4,215.4 254.0,197.0" points="473,296, 422,285, 376,299, 350,328, 326,348, 299,351, 280,314, 268,277,label 260,243, 254,197,lower"/> <path id="85876" linkedTo="234" d="M379.0,299.0C363.8,276.2 350.4,261.1 341.0,242.0C331.6,222.9 328.6,203.6 326.0,191.0C323.4,178.4 326.1,171.7 324.0,159.0C321.9,146.3 318.0,135.0 314.0,119.0" points="379,299, 341,242,label 326,191, 324,159, 314,119,lower"/> </drawing> <legend> <climb>117</climb> <climb>233</climb> <climb>234</climb> <climb>32</climb> <climb>40</climb> <climb>66</climb> </legend> </image> <climb name="project direct garry" id="156" stars="" extra="" number="51." length="" grade="" fa=""/> <climb name="Juno" id="233" stars="***" extra="Þ" number="52." length="20m" grade="27" fa="G Phillips 2017">Climbs the crux of Fed to the Lions before breaking out left and following the break to finish up the left hand side of the steep head wall.
Classic power endurance climbing.
</climb> <climb name="Jupiter" id="234" stars="***" extra="Þ" number="53." length="18m" grade="28" fa="G Phillips 2017">Climbs the crux of Fed to the Lions before breaking out left and finishing up the head wall above.</climb> <climb name="Lions" id="32" stars="" extra="4Þ" number="54." length="7m" grade="17" fa="O Gervasoni, May 2017">The steep pocketed white wall to DBB under main overhang.</climb> <climb name="Fed to the Lions" id="40" stars="*" extra="8Þ" number="55." length="15m" grade="24" fa="O Gervasoni, May 2017">From the DBB on Lions, power up the 45 degree overhanging wall above. Suffers badly from sand in it's top half.</climb> <climb name="Way of the Dragon" id="66" stars="**" extra="8Þ" number="56." length="14m" grade="23" fa="O Gervasoni, June 2017">Classic introduction to pumpy and steep sandstone climbing.</climb> <image id="101" src="black1.jpg" height="1067" width="800" legend="true" legendTitle="Black Sector RHS" legendy="11" legendx="15"> <drawing> <path id="4098" linkedTo="49" d="M557.0,861.0C559.8,847.4 560.2,839.1 564.0,827.0C567.8,814.9 573.0,808.9 577.0,798.0C581.0,787.1 585.2,781.0 585.0,770.0C584.8,759.0 583.0,752.5 576.0,744.0C569.0,735.5 558.8,733.1 548.0,725.0C537.2,716.9 524.8,707.8 513.0,697.0C501.2,686.2 501.0,672.1 498.0,660.0C495.0,647.9 494.9,641.4 496.0,629.0C497.1,616.6 502.5,598.5 505.0,581.0C507.5,563.5 507.4,554.6 509.0,537.0C510.6,519.4 512.2,507.8 513.0,491.0C513.8,474.2 511.7,463.2 513.0,449.0C514.3,434.8 516.1,427.7 520.0,414.0C523.9,400.3 530.1,390.5 533.0,378.0C535.9,365.5 534.7,358.8 536.0,346.0C537.3,333.2 538.7,322.4 540.0,310.0C541.3,297.6 543.6,291.4 543.0,279.0C542.4,266.6 542.4,255.3 537.0,245.0C531.6,234.7 518.9,236.9 515.0,226.0C511.1,215.1 501.8,164.2 493.0,123.0" points="557,861, 564,827, 577,798, 585,770, 576,744, 548,725, 513,697, 498,660, 496,629, 505,581, 509,537, 513,491, 513,449, 520,414, 533,378, 536,346, 540,310, 543,279, 537,245, 515,226, 493,123,lower"/> <path id="37804" linkedTo="57" d="M511.0,696.0C499.2,685.2 480.8,682.1 466.0,674.0C451.2,665.9 443.5,662.2 430.0,652.0C416.5,641.8 398.9,626.3 388.0,615.0C377.1,603.7 371.3,595.0 364.0,584.0C356.7,573.0 352.0,566.9 348.0,555.0C344.0,543.1 344.9,536.5 344.0,524.0C343.1,511.5 346.0,496.5 343.0,485.0C340.0,473.5 334.8,468.4 327.0,460.0C319.2,451.6 312.8,450.2 304.0,443.0C295.2,435.8 289.1,433.5 283.0,424.0C276.9,414.5 271.0,400.7 268.0,387.0C265.0,373.3 268.6,365.8 267.0,352.0C265.4,338.2 262.1,331.7 260.0,318.0C257.9,304.3 252.8,292.7 256.0,280.0C259.2,267.3 267.7,263.7 276.0,254.0C284.3,244.3 289.7,240.6 298.0,231.0C306.3,221.4 316.0,210.4 321.0,202.0C326.0,193.6 330.0,188.7 329.0,179.0C328.0,169.3 318.2,132.2 311.0,101.0" points="511,696, 466,674, 430,652, 388,615, 364,584, 348,555, 344,524, 343,485,label 327,460, 304,443, 283,424, 268,387, 267,352, 260,318, 256,280, 276,254, 298,231, 321,202, 329,179, 311,101,lower"/> </drawing> <legend> <climb>57</climb> <climb>49</climb> </legend> </image> <climb name="Fortuna" id="57" stars="**" extra="Þ" number="57." length="15m" grade="25" fa="Garry Phillips June 2017">The bulge to the left of Et tu, Brute</climb> <climb name="Et tu, Brute" id="49" stars="**" extra="Þ" number="58." length="15m" grade="26" fa="Garry Phillips, May 2017">Campus start leads to some pretty awesome moves above.</climb> <climb name="#The Beast from Space" id="301" stars="" extra="Þ" number="59." length="8m" grade="25" fa="G Phillips 31/12/17">Clips the first bolt of TMMTE then heads left and up.</climb> <climb name="Twenty Million Miles to Earth" id="39" stars="**" extra="5Þ" number="60." length="9m" grade="25" fa="Owen Gervasoni, July 2018">The overhanging arete at the right end of the Black Sector.</climb> <climb id="407" stars="" extra="Þ" number="61." name="Project" length="20m" grade="" fa="Jon & Dave">Project - Climb the the right side of the TMME arete to the ledge, then the headwall above.</climb> <text id="404" class="heading3">Circus Wall</text> <text id="405" class="text">To the right of TMME is a short but steep wall, directly below the Upper Tier.</text> <climb id="408" stars="" extra="" number="62." name="Project" length="" grade="" fa="Jon & Dave">Project - wall to the right of the big chossy rooves.</climb> <climb id="410" stars="" extra="" number="63." name="Project (DS)" length="" grade="" fa="DS">Project - immediately left of Wild Boar</climb> <climb id="400" stars="*" extra="4Þ " number="64." name="Wild Boar " length="9m" grade="18" fa="T. McKenny, B. Bull, June 2018.">Surprisingly varied and steep climbing on the short featured wall.</climb> <climb id="406" stars="" extra="" number="65." name="Never tickle a sleeping dragon. (Project Tony and Bob)" length="" grade="9m" fa=""/> <text id="396" class="heading3">Circus Wall Upper Tier</text> <text id="393" class="text">The higher orange buttress, accessed up the fern covered scree between the Colosseum and Plebeian's wall.</text> <image id="397" src="ColosseumUpperTier.jpg" height="1510" legend="true" legendTitle="ColosseumCircus Wall Upper Tier"> <drawing> <path id="78159" points="549,1505, 534,1273, 496,913, 377,606, 339,440, 297,164,lower" linkedTo="394" d="M549.0,1505.0C543.0,1412.2 542.3,1365.6 534.0,1273.0C525.7,1180.4 526.2,1041.2 496.0,913.0C465.8,784.8 398.5,670.6 377.0,606.0C355.5,541.4 351.1,507.0 339.0,440.0C326.9,373.0 313.8,274.4 297.0,164.0"/> <path id="91364" points="709,1489, 614,1065, 601,580, 637,433, 620,313, 586,262,lower" d="M709.0,1489.0C671.0,1319.4 634.5,1237.6 614.0,1065.0C593.5,892.4 598.8,640.5 601.0,580.0C603.2,519.5 633.6,481.4 637.0,433.0C640.4,384.6 627.0,336.5 620.0,313.0C613.0,289.5 599.6,282.4 586.0,262.0" linkedTo="395"/> </drawing> <legend> <climb>394</climb> <climb>395</climb> </legend> </image> <climb id="394" stars="**" extra="8Þ" number="66." name="Slaves" length="17m" grade="20" fa="Stu Scott and Bob Bull, June 2018">Continuously interesting climbing with a technical steep crux. Use a screw gate on the 5th bolt. Nice rock.</climb> <climb id="395" stars="**" extra="7Þ" number="67." name="Women" length="17m" grade="15" fa="Bully and Stu, July 2018">Interesting climbing and terrific positions on the right hand arete.</climb> <text class="heading2" id="58">Plebeian's Wall</text> <text class="text" id="59">To the south of the Colosseum, about 50m or so right of the Circus Wall over a bracken covered scree, is the Plebeian's Wall, featuring steep, clean rock with some excellent routes. A taped line through the bracken on the left of the Wall leads up to the cliff top.
The area has been developed by a commune of Plebs aka Stu Scott, Tony McKenny, Bob Bull, Dave Stephenson, Ivan Riley, Neale Smith, Ben Maddison and others who have all shared in the onerous tasks of cleaning, equipping and belaying the routes to date, and who have in most cases added a signature route of their own as well.
The left hand end of the wall has climbs 20 to 25m high while further right the cliff is broken by a ledge at half height. A smaller wall, Minions Wall, continues further right again
The first route takes a line on the left side of the steep prow, to the left of an orange face.
</text> <image id="67" src="Pleb Wall 2.jpg" height="600" width="800" legend="true" legendTitle="Plebian's Wall" legendy="13" legendx="625"> <drawing> <path id="88750" linkedTo="60" d="M133.0,584.0C145.8,502.8 161.1,408.5 165.0,381.0C168.9,353.5 169.2,332.9 172.0,312.0C174.8,291.1 182.1,281.1 181.0,260.0C179.9,238.9 166.8,184.4 164.0,163.0C161.2,141.6 161.1,119.8 161.0,109.0C160.9,98.2 164.4,89.8 163.0,82.0C161.6,74.2 151.5,72.7 153.0,65.0C154.5,57.3 165.6,41.6 174.0,26.0" points="133,584, 165,381, 172,312, 181,260, 164,163, 161,109, 163,82, 153,65, 174,26,lower"/> <path id="36270" linkedTo="63" d="M192.0,586.0C199.2,558.4 203.4,544.8 210.0,517.0C216.6,489.2 230.3,432.3 239.0,387.0C247.7,341.7 249.1,318.5 257.0,273.0C264.9,227.5 277.5,160.1 282.0,141.0C286.5,121.9 296.3,103.9 299.0,95.0C301.7,86.1 309.2,79.0 303.0,72.0C296.8,65.0 257.8,63.2 254.0,44.0C250.2,24.8 276.2,24.8 291.0,12.0" points="192,586, 210,517, 239,387, 257,273, 282,141, 299,95, 303,72, 254,44, 291,12,lower"/> <path id="41842" linkedTo="61" d="M406.0,587.0C412.8,526.6 427.4,477.8 423.0,436.0C418.6,394.2 391.1,380.6 380.0,340.0C368.9,299.4 352.0,201.7 349.0,166.0C346.0,130.3 358.3,102.6 358.0,77.0C357.7,51.4 351.4,39.2 347.0,14.0" points="406,587, 423,436, 380,340, 349,166, 358,77, 347,14,lower"/> <path id="2032" linkedTo="64" d="M619.0,589.0C586.6,476.2 548.9,347.7 538.0,307.0C527.1,266.3 524.2,239.7 516.0,204.0C507.8,168.3 496.8,130.0 494.0,115.0C491.2,100.0 492.0,92.2 492.0,77.0C492.0,61.8 493.2,51.8 494.0,35.0" points="619,589, 538,307, 516,204, 494,115, 492,77, 494,35,lower"/> <path id="78443" linkedTo="89" d="M740.0,584.0C695.6,488.8 650.6,397.0 629.0,346.0C607.4,295.0 588.1,227.2 584.0,215.0" points="740,584, 629,346, 584,215,lower"/> <path id="59489" linkedTo="88" d="M532.0,576.0C510.8,520.8 490.5,470.0 479.0,438.0C467.5,406.0 461.9,389.8 453.0,357.0C444.1,324.2 421.6,229.9 417.0,209.0C412.4,188.1 412.2,177.2 409.0,156.0" points="532,576, 479,438, 453,357, 417,209, 409,156,lower"/> <path id="9540" linkedTo="65" d="M584.0,215.0C579.9,202.8 577.8,196.6 575.0,184.0C572.2,171.4 570.0,158.9 568.0,142.0C566.0,125.1 568.2,112.2 564.0,93.0C559.8,73.8 553.2,61.8 546.0,41.0" points="584,215, 575,184, 568,142,label 564,93, 546,41,lower"/> <path id="68213" linkedTo="69" d="M397.0,175.0C398.6,150.6 386.6,128.6 401.0,114.0C415.4,99.4 445.0,138.3 452.0,119.0C459.0,99.7 440.0,64.4 432.0,28.0" points="397,175, 401,114, 452,119, 432,28,lower"/> <path id="26859" points="29,590, 55,443, 71,336, 80,246, 113,143, 145,53,lower" linkedTo="409" d="M29.0,590.0C39.4,531.2 47.9,485.7 55.0,443.0C62.1,400.3 66.4,371.9 71.0,336.0C75.6,300.1 72.3,281.4 80.0,246.0C87.7,210.6 100.8,179.2 113.0,143.0C125.2,106.8 132.2,89.0 145.0,53.0"/> </drawing> <legend> <climb>409</climb> <climb>60</climb> <climb>63</climb> <climb>61</climb> <climb>69</climb> <climb>88</climb> <climb>64</climb> <climb>89</climb> <climb>65</climb> </legend> </image> <climb id="409" stars="**" extra="11Þ " number="68." name="No More Heroes (project DS/SS)" length="18m" grade="19" fa="D. Stephenson and S. Scott, July 2018.">The bulging wall to the left of Working Class Heroes, starting on the slab underneath. Very entertaining.</climb> <climb name="Working Class Heroes " id="60" stars="**" extra="7Þ " number="69." length="18m" grade="17" fa="Tony McKenny and the Plebs , June 2017.">Varied climbing ending with an exciting steep finish on large jugs over the roof. Can be climbed on the right after the second bolt without using the wobbly rocks if you don't trust them. They have resisted a concerted effort to remove them with bars, hammers and much brute force.</climb> <climb name="Riffraff Roof " id="63" stars="***" extra="10Þ " number="70." length="19m" grade="18" fa="Tony McKenny and the Plebs, June, 2107. Alt. finish; Tony McKenny, July 2017.">Terrific climbing. Starts a couple of metres right of WCH and takes a direct line up the steep glassy wall, finishing leftward via the under-cling.
Alternative finish: instead of completing the under-cling left, bridge up through the overhang directly, clipping the bolt off right (not visible from below). From a large jug out left on the lip, weave a way up and back right to finish at the rap station. Quite exciting but maybe not as good as the original.</climb> <climb name="Spartacus" id="61" stars="***" extra="9Þ" number="71." length="20m" grade="20" fa="Stu Scott and the Plebs, July 2017.">A steep Arapiles-quality wall leads to hard moves over the bulges. Exciting climbing on excellent rock. Magic.</climb> <climb name="The Patrician" id="69" stars="***" extra="12Þ" number="72." length="20m" grade="24" fa="Stu and Plebs">Classy. Takes a line on the wall to the right of Spartacus. Up pleasant slab (Upwardly Mobile) and the right facing corner, traverse right on the orange wall under the roof. Turn roof off layback and on to steep delicate terrain to finish.</climb> <climb name="Upwardly Mobile " id="88" stars="*" extra="5Þ" number="73." length="13m" grade="18" fa="Stu Scott and the Plebs, Aug 2017.">This is actually the first half of The Patrician. Rap off (U bolts) from ledge.
</climb> <climb name="The Plebeian " id="64" stars="**" extra="13Þ" number="74." length="22m" grade="24" fa="Stu Scott and the Plebs, July 2017.">Thoughtful wall climbing to the ledge, then blast on up the superb red wall and finesse the steep ground on subtle holds.</climb> <climb name="Via Appia" id="89" stars="" extra="5Þ" number="75." length="10m" grade="11" fa="Ivan Riley and the Plebs.">A steep little wall to start then climb the massive left facing flake crack. Rap station below start of Plebs Rustikus, Access climb for upper climbs, or as a simple beginners climb.</climb> <image id="104" src="minions.jpg" height="600" width="800" legend="true" legendTitle="Plebian Wall RHS" legendy="1" legendx="615"> <drawing> <path id="33182" linkedTo="61" d="M4.0,491.0C4.4,489.9 6.6,492.1 7.0,491.0C7.4,489.9 86.8,234.9 111.0,177.0C135.2,119.1 160.8,97.2 194.0,44.0" points="4,491, 7,491, 111,177, 194,44,lower"/> <path id="61115" linkedTo="88" d="M235.0,545.0C244.6,471.4 261.1,392.7 259.0,361.0C256.9,329.3 229.2,322.7 218.0,293.0C206.8,263.3 188.6,204.1 190.0,177.0" points="235,545, 259,361, 218,293, 190,177,lower"/> <path id="39220" linkedTo="69" d="M190.0,177.0C191.4,149.9 207.9,134.1 227.0,120.0C246.1,105.9 276.7,113.5 285.0,107.0C293.3,100.5 274.6,93.5 274.0,83.0C273.4,72.5 278.2,53.0 281.0,33.0" points="190,177, 227,120,label 285,107, 274,83, 281,33,lower"/> <path id="5048" linkedTo="64" d="M314.0,546.0C308.4,441.6 301.4,319.8 300.0,285.0C298.6,250.2 295.5,227.6 300.0,198.0C304.5,168.4 317.5,144.9 324.0,127.0C330.5,109.1 336.1,101.1 342.0,83.0C347.9,64.9 351.0,48.8 357.0,26.0" points="314,546, 300,285, 300,198, 324,127, 342,83, 357,26,lower"/> <path id="60874" linkedTo="89" d="M401.0,555.0C387.0,469.4 373.0,390.8 366.0,341.0C359.0,291.2 358.2,266.0 353.0,216.0" points="401,555, 366,341, 353,216,lower"/> <path id="41597" linkedTo="65" d="M352.0,215.0C374.0,164.6 397.4,115.2 407.0,89.0C416.6,62.8 416.6,48.2 423.0,21.0" points="352,215, 407,89,label 423,21,lower"/> <path id="94745" linkedTo="84" d="M460.0,200.0C462.8,182.8 464.9,167.6 467.0,157.0C469.1,146.4 470.4,141.2 474.0,131.0C477.6,120.8 490.9,88.0 497.0,72.0C503.1,56.0 506.0,48.0 512.0,32.0" points="460,200, 467,157, 474,131, 497,72, 512,32,lower"/> <path id="92486" linkedTo="71" d="M552.0,201.0C552.8,176.6 553.0,164.4 554.0,140.0C555.0,115.6 556.4,86.6 558.0,51.0" points="552,201, 554,140, 558,51,lower"/> <path id="55136" linkedTo="75" d="M495.0,563.0C500.6,498.6 504.2,450.1 509.0,402.0C513.8,353.9 507.2,323.4 523.0,282.0C538.8,240.6 582.9,217.3 589.0,193.0" points="495,563, 509,402, 523,282, 589,193,lower"/> <path id="71400" d="" points=""/> <path id="4131" linkedTo="78" d="M696.0,559.0C676.0,482.2 657.5,413.6 646.0,367.0C634.5,320.4 627.8,273.8 620.0,250.0C612.2,226.2 583.9,219.3 590.0,195.0" points="696,559, 646,367, 620,250, 590,195,"/> <path id="98352" linkedTo="70" d="M770.0,558.0C746.4,462.8 722.1,360.0 711.0,320.0C699.9,280.0 683.8,238.6 677.0,222.0C670.2,205.4 663.8,198.6 655.0,183.0" points="770,558, 711,320, 677,222, 655,183,lower"/> </drawing> <legend> <climb>61</climb> <climb>69</climb> <climb>88</climb> <climb>64</climb> <climb>89</climb> <climb>65</climb> <climb>84</climb> <climb>71</climb> <climb>75</climb> <climb>78</climb> <climb>70</climb> </legend> </image> <text class="text" id="90">The next climbs start from a ledge at half height, accessed by by the Via Appia (Grade 11), or by abseiling in. Obey the road rules and keep to the left and DO NOT go near the two massive flakes or the dirty gully on the right (especially nasty dragons).</text> <climb name="Plebs Rustikus " id="65" stars="*" extra="5Þ" number="76." length="12m" grade="20" fa="Ivan and the Plebs">Climbs up and over the right pointing overhang. Beware of a loose block when moving up the corner to the overhang.</climb> <climb name="Tory Tossers" id="84" stars="**" extra="6Þ" number="77." length="11m" grade="22" fa="Dave Stephenson and Plebs">The steep orange water washed wall - complex and cool.</climb> <climb name="The Proletariat" id="71" stars="*" extra="5Þ" number="78." length="9m" grade="21" fa="Neale Smith and the Plebs">The next line right on overhanging orange wall. Start from u-bolt anchor. Nice moves on hard water washed stone.</climb> <text class="heading3" id="73">Minions Wall
</text> <text class="text" id="74">To the right of the start of Via Appia is an obvious break in the cliff line, capped by the dangerously loose flakes and a particularly dirty gully. Further right again is a short, steep wall of excellent sandstone.</text> <climb name=" Buck o boys " id="75" stars="" extra="3Þ" number="79." length="9m" grade="16" fa="The Buckoboys (aka Tony, Stu and Bob Bull), Aug 2017.">Climbs the grey streaked wall, and directly up shallow corners, finishing on right at the very top. A good warm up.</climb> <climb name="Hoi Polloi" id="78" stars="*" extra="3Þ " number="80." length="10m" grade="18" fa="Tony McKenny and The Plebs">Climb the short bulging wall: for the best of the technical climbing, keep to the nose of the buttress, avoiding the temptations of the Minion's crack line to the right. Belay as for Buckoboys. Fun stuff.</climb> <climb name="Minions " id="70" stars="*" extra="6Þ" number="81." length="12m" grade="19" fa="Neale Smith and the Plebs, July, 2017.">Technical climbing on small holds up the water washed groove, a metre right of Hoi Polloi.</climb> <image id="398" src="BattleBulge.jpg" height="1510" legend="true" legendTitle="Battle of the Bulge" width=""> <drawing> <path id="67315" points="554,1502, 541,1237, 386,472, 328,288, 341,147,lower" d="M554.0,1502.0C548.8,1396.0 558.1,1341.7 541.0,1237.0C523.9,1132.3 402.9,547.3 386.0,472.0C369.1,396.7 335.8,344.1 328.0,288.0C320.2,231.9 335.8,203.4 341.0,147.0" linkedTo="391"/> </drawing> <legend> <climb>391</climb> </legend> </image> <climb id="391" stars="**" extra="6Þ" number="82." name="Battle of the Bulge" length="12m" grade="23" fa="David Stephenson, July 2018">The smooth wall with a bulge on the next little buttress right of Minions. Nice technical moves on good rock.</climb> <text class="heading2" id="113">Eldorado</text> <text class="text" id="114">Eldorado comprises the west facing cliffs around the corner to the right of the Colosseum area, visible as you walk down the hill from the parking area. The sun gets here later than at the Colosseum or Plebeians wall. Good in summer - cooler in winter.
The easiest approach to Eldorado is via the blue taped track which leads up the hill opposite Riverside, and meets the cliff line at Midas' Touch - the rest of the routes are reached by walking to the left. Alternatively you can follow the red taped track to the Colosseum, continuing right along the base of the cliff past Plebeians Wall and then Minions Wall. Eldorado starts about 50m past Minions Wall where the track turns left around a corner to follow the cliff line.
The left side of Eldorado contains the Consolidation Sector and the steep cave of the Skywalker Sector. Immediately right of this feature is the Eldorado Main Wall. Pay Dirt and Gold Leaf are at the centre near a large, square boulder at the bottom of the wall/slabs.</text> <text class="heading3" id="256">Consolidation Sector</text> <image id="264" src="Consolidation.jpg" height="1510" legend="true" legendTitle="Consolidation Buttress"> <drawing> <path id="12629" linkedTo="255" d="M537.0,1494.0C534.2,1215.6 536.8,986.8 530.0,798.0C523.2,609.2 494.2,428.7 495.0,327.0C495.8,225.3 519.6,176.4 536.0,76.0" points="537,1494, 530,798, 495,327, 536,76,lower"/> </drawing> <legend> <climb>255</climb> </legend> </image> <climb name="Consolidation " id="255" stars="*" extra="5Þ" number="83." length="12m" grade="17" fa="Stu Scott. Bob Bull. January 2018">Small buttress 60m along the track after turning the corner at the end of Minions Wall. Starts opposite a large dead tree on the track. Up the wall with the crux just after the steepening. Clean rock and a bit of fun.</climb> <text class="intro" id="259">The following three routes are on Hat Trick Wall, with its prominent overhang halfway up. The wall is slightly above the track and accessed by scrambling up some easy slabs. There is a double bolt belay at the bottom of the wall.</text> <image id="261" src="HatTrick.jpg" height="1510" legend="true" legendTitle="Hat Trick Wall"> <drawing> <path id="23014" linkedTo="257" d="M379.0,796.0C383.0,650.8 386.3,476.8 389.0,433.0C391.7,389.2 398.7,367.9 408.0,325.0C417.3,282.1 423.9,243.3 436.0,217.0C448.1,190.7 464.2,184.0 483.0,162.0" points="379,796, 389,433, 408,325, 436,217, 483,162,lower"/> <path id="89299" linkedTo="258" d="M528.0,816.0C561.6,637.6 600.4,448.5 612.0,370.0C623.6,291.5 618.6,251.2 623.0,172.0" points="528,816, 612,370, 623,172,lower"/> <path id="50874" linkedTo="260" d="M256.0,806.0C255.2,637.6 257.1,423.0 254.0,385.0C250.9,347.0 200.2,333.1 215.0,298.0C229.8,262.9 291.2,224.8 342.0,176.0" points="256,806, 254,385, 215,298, 342,176,lower"/> </drawing> <legend> <climb>260</climb> <climb>257</climb> <climb>258</climb> </legend> </image> <climb name="Fred Sopporth" id="260" stars="*" extra="8Þ" number="84." length="16m" grade="17" fa="Neale Smith and plebs, May 2018">The left hand line on Hat Trick Buttress. Scramble with care to DBB at base of broken corner leading to small roof. An awkward move or two across short wall under roof and follow line of bolts to anchors just shy of cliff top.</climb> <climb name="Standard Deviation" id="257" stars="**" extra="8Þ" number="85." length="16m" grade="20" fa="Stu Scott and Bob Bull, January 2018">The middle route. Slab then crux moves up into hanging corner followed by lovely steep slab of water washed stone.</climb> <climb name="Three Card Trick" id="258" stars="**" extra="8Þ" number="86." length="16m" grade="18" fa="Bob Bull and Stu Scott, January 2018">Right hand route. Intricate slab, mantle, then crux moves over bulge followed by lovely steep slab of water washed stone.</climb> <text class="text" id="263">The next two routes are on the Blade Arete, the prominent sharp arete with a gum tree at the top just left of the Skywalker cave.</text> <image id="262" src="Blade.jpg" height="1510" legend="true" legendTitle="Blade Arete"> <drawing> <path id="8244" linkedTo="250" d="M38.0,1417.0C74.8,1224.6 64.8,1120.7 130.0,936.0C195.2,751.3 354.6,487.4 386.0,431.0C417.4,374.6 448.3,356.5 483.0,302.0C517.7,247.5 547.2,181.8 565.0,150.0C582.8,118.2 593.2,103.2 612.0,72.0" points="38,1417, 130,936, 386,431, 483,302, 565,150, 612,72,lower"/> <path id="61892" linkedTo="251" d="M624.0,1430.0C631.6,1185.6 656.0,956.1 643.0,819.0C630.0,681.9 547.1,568.6 535.0,492.0C522.9,415.4 541.6,368.6 561.0,300.0C580.4,231.4 627.9,164.3 635.0,138.0C642.1,111.7 627.8,97.8 623.0,71.0" points="624,1430, 643,819, 535,492, 561,300, 635,138, 623,71,lower"/> </drawing> <legend> <climb>250</climb> <climb>251</climb> </legend> </image> <climb name="The Blade" id="250" stars="**" extra="8Þ" number="87." length="16m" grade="17" fa="Bob Bull, Stu Scott January 2018">Excellent climbing up the left side of the sharp arete to the left of the cave section.</climb> <climb name="Blade Runner" id="251" stars="**" extra="10Þ" number="88." length="16m" grade="20" fa="Dave Stephenson, January 2018">Overhang just right of The Blade arete, followed by right side of Blade arete. When forced left by gum tree move up to Blade lower offs.</climb> <text class="heading3" id="242">Skywalker Sector</text> <text class="text" id="244">Immediately left of the Main Wall is a steep cave just above the access track. This is the Skywalker Sector, named after the astonishing looking route that rises leftwards through the cave and blasts out the jutting roof.

The cave offers protection from wind and rain, and comes into sun an hour or two after the main wall (sun after about 1pm in summer).</text> <climb name="Sidewinder" id="246" stars="**" extra="6Þ" number="89." length="14m" grade="22" fa="Owen Gervasoni, Nov 2017">Takes the technical steep slab and short overhang on left side of cave. To avoid being blown up at the crux you'll need to jag left then right in quick succession.</climb> <climb name="#Luke" id="238" stars="*" extra="Þ" number="90." length="12m" grade="23" fa="G Phillips Dec 2017">Steep climbing up the overhanging wall. (Do not climb bolts need glueing in)</climb> <climb name="Skywalker" id="237" stars="***" extra="Þ" number="91." length="20m" grade="27" fa="G Phillips Nov 2017">Up to small roof at 7m, pull around this on the left and trend diagonally leftwards to the base of the roof. Through this and the headwall above.</climb> <climb name="#Leia" id="236" stars="*" extra="Þ" number="92." length="12m" grade="22" fa="G Phillips Nov 2017">Starts as for Skywalker but from the small roof at 7m head right and up.</climb> <climb name="#Anakin" id="235" stars="**" extra="Þ" number="93." length="12m" grade="23" fa="G Phillips Nov 2017">Fingery and pumpy climbing up the gently over hanging orange wall.</climb> <text id="358" class="text">The following three routes take the tall narrow buttress that seperates the Skywalker Sector from the Elderado Main Wall. Some long slings are handy to reduce rope drag on these routes.</text> <climb name="Roger Ramjet" id="247" stars="" extra="Þ" number="94." length="15m" grade="21" fa="Owen Gervasoni, Feb 2018">"Not one of your better efforts Owen – Roger Parkyn". Start as for FF, but where FF moves right, continue straight up the left arête. Try to avoid the temptation to use the rubbly crack. At the final rooflet, step left and scramble up to ledge. A convenient way to access the anchors on top of FF.</climb> <climb name="Devil May Care Link" id="248" stars="" extra="Þ" number="95." length="20m" grade="23/24" fa="">This Flying Fool Variant avoids the large final roof, buts adds more sustained face climbing. From the base of the FF roof hand traverse left under roof to left side of buttress, then move up and slightly right through smaller part of roof.</climb> <climb id="357" stars="**" extra="Þ" number="96." name="Flying Fool" length="18m" grade="24/25" fa="Owen Gervasoni, April 2018">An intimidating line with lots of sustained and varied grade 23 climbing. From the right side of the ledge under the Skywalker Cave, head up then make a thin rising right traverse to gain the right arête of the buttress. Up with difficulty to jugs under large roof. Suck up some air and pull through the large roof of spaced jugs. The anchor is easiest to clip after mantling onto the ledge above.</climb> <text class="heading3" id="240">Eldorado Main Wall</text> <text class="text" id="243">The climbs on the Main Wall are longer than most in the area - slabs, walls and arête climbing up to 30m. Generally less steep than the Colosseum but the climbs have been "mined" to expose the value. Grades are possibly more reasonable than other areas. Comes into the sun at about 12 noon in summer.</text> <image id="185" src="Eldorado_left.jpg" height="688" width="800" legend="true" legendTitle="Eldorado left" legendy="6" legendx="628"> <drawing> <path id="6777" linkedTo="122" d="M490.0,119.0C476.0,170.2 440.7,195.9 455.0,247.0C469.3,298.1 541.8,287.9 552.0,341.0C562.2,394.1 518.6,432.9 503.0,496.0C487.4,559.1 482.0,607.6 468.0,682.0" points="490,119,lower 455,247, 552,341, 503,496, 468,682,label"/> <path id="34221" linkedTo="132" d="M607.0,104.0C601.4,152.4 585.1,177.0 593.0,225.0C600.9,273.0 653.6,287.1 645.0,335.0C636.4,382.9 576.2,417.6 547.0,482.0C517.8,546.4 511.6,601.4 488.0,681.0" points="607,104,lower 593,225, 645,335, 547,482, 488,681,label"/> </drawing> <legend> <climb>122</climb> <climb>132</climb> </legend> </image> <climb name="Inca Trail " id="122" stars="**" extra="12Þ" number="97." length="28m" grade="19" fa="Bob Bull and Stu Scott, Oct 2017.">Up short wall to ledge with DBB, moving left above and up the flake. Sustained, steep, superb slabbing to the very last move. Gold.</climb> <climb name=" Miner's Rights" id="132" stars="*" extra="12Þ" number="98." length="28m" grade="19" fa="Bob Bull and Plebs, Nov 2017">Shares start with Inca Trail, then continues up slab and wall to the right, with crux at the top.</climb> <image id="188" src="Eldorado_center.jpg" height="616" width="800" legend="true" legendTitle="Eldorado center"> <drawing> <path id="92294" linkedTo="109" d="M256.0,79.0C239.2,108.6 237.4,128.3 214.0,153.0C190.6,177.7 131.5,206.4 89.0,255.0C46.5,303.6 37.4,338.4 3.0,394.0" points="256,79,lower 214,153, 89,255, 3,394,label"/> <path id="71105" linkedTo="110" d="M265.0,611.0C303.4,413.8 356.3,139.5 361.0,118.0C365.7,96.5 374.8,88.0 384.0,68.0" points="265,611, 361,118, 384,68,lower"/> <path id="45285" linkedTo="187" d="M541.0,602.0C547.8,397.2 551.2,294.8 558.0,90.0" points="541,602, 558,90,"/> <path id="97110" linkedTo="123" d="M790.0,108.0" points="790,108,lower"/> </drawing> <legend> <climb>109</climb> <climb>110</climb> <climb>187</climb> <climb>123</climb> </legend> </image> <climb name="Pay Dirt " id="109" stars="*" extra="9Þ" number="99." length="26m" grade="15" fa="Bully and the Plebs">Up the slab and move into the left facing corner. Short slab at finish.</climb> <climb name="Gold Leaf" id="110" stars="***" extra="12Þ" number="100." length="26m" grade="20" fa="Stu Scott and Bob Bull, Oct 2017.">Thin and delicate. Sustained and well protected - so nothing not to enjoy. Follow the bolts. The direct between 3 and 4 is about 22 and classy but if you sneak to the left.....</climb> <climb name="Golden Anniversary" id="187" stars="*" extra="11Þ " number="101." length="26m" grade="19" fa="Tony McKenny, Mat Crawford and Al Beach, April 2018.">This one is for you, Heth! 50 years...
The overhanging lay-back crack right of Gold Leaf. Start from the large boulder and climb the crack direct, with some sharp moves to the tree (the wall beside the tree has been climbed, or use the tree, Tarzan style - your choice!). Finish up the easier slabs to the lower offs, or better, move left to finish up the terrific hanging slab of Gold leaf.</climb> <image id="189" src="Eldorado_right_small.jpg" height="596" width="900" legend="true" legendTitle="Eldorado right"> <drawing> <path id="63258" linkedTo="123" d="M7.0,177.0C41.8,152.2 65.8,147.1 94.0,115.0" points="7,177, 94,115,lower"/> <path id="15340" linkedTo="131" d="M5.0,588.0C8.6,498.4 7.2,419.8 14.0,364.0C20.8,308.2 32.1,271.6 49.0,228.0C65.9,184.4 77.8,158.1 106.0,126.0" points="5,588, 14,364, 49,228, 106,126,lower"/> <path id="3073" linkedTo="173" d="M283.0,588.0C305.0,381.6 316.0,278.4 338.0,72.0" points="283,588, 338,72,lower"/> <path id="69143" linkedTo="124" d="M629.0,589.0C631.8,466.2 633.4,344.1 636.0,282.0C638.6,219.9 645.3,150.9 648.0,127.0C650.7,103.1 655.2,91.6 660.0,68.0" points="629,589, 636,282, 648,127, 660,68,lower"/> <path id="23800" linkedTo="125" d="M812.0,588.0C820.0,511.2 842.1,472.6 832.0,396.0C821.9,319.4 779.2,200.4 744.0,70.0" points="812,588, 832,396, 744,70,lower"/> </drawing> <legend> <climb>123</climb> <climb>131</climb> <climb>173</climb> <climb>124</climb> <climb>125</climb> </legend> </image> <climb name="Buried Treasure" id="123" stars="" extra="6Þ" number="102." length="15m" grade="20" fa="Chuck McGibbon and Plebs, Oct 2017">Follow the crack.</climb> <climb name="Golden Thread" id="131" stars="**" extra="7Þ" number="103." length="14m" grade="22" fa="Dave Stephenson, Nov 2017">Undercling up and over corner flake, then follow seams in smooth yellow wall to right of Buried Treasure.</climb> <climb name="All That Glitters" id="173" stars="*" extra="6Þ" number="104." length="15m" grade="14" fa="T. McKenny and C. McGibbon, Nov 2017.">Moves up a smooth wall off the massive boulder lead to a vertical crack line, an excellent introduction to the dark arts of jamming!</climb> <climb name="Alchemy " id="124" stars="**" extra="6Þ" number="105." length="14m" grade="23" fa="Dave Stephenson, Oct 2017.">Up slab then nice moves up seams on orange wall.</climb> <climb name="Fool's Gold" id="125" stars="*" extra="6Þ" number="106." length="12m" grade="18" fa="Dave Stephenson and Plebs, January 2018">Layaways up seam right of Alchemy start, finishing on steep nose.</climb> <climb name="Midas' Touch" id="129" stars="**" extra="9Þ" number="107." length="18m" grade="21" fa="Stu Scott and and Bob Bull, Oct 2017.">The Arapilian looking arete on the buttress 50m or so to the right of Alchemy. Classy moves on superb stone.</climb> <text class="heading2" id="35">The Panopticon</text> <text class="text" id="36">The Panopticon is in the next valley to the south of the Colosseum, and contains an extensive amount of rock. A fun day out for mortals, especially in winter.

Named after Panoptes, the Greek mythological giant with a hundred eyes, the views from the crag are superb. Port Arthur Prison was modelled on the Panopticon - the prisoner thought they were being watched from the central watchtower even when they were not.

Panopticon left has quality routes from around 18 upwards, Panopticon right has some excellent routes from 12 to 22 and classy longer routes at quite moderate grades, with some harder test pieces in between.

Follow the tapes up the hill from the stream bed to a cairn at the base of the cliffs - walking to the left along the cliff line leads you east past the Jail House Rock towards Wednesday Buttress. To the right limited access has been negotiated for the small crags to the south as far as "Twin Towers". Do not wander past this point as you are on private land for which access has not been negotiated.

The various crags are described left to right - which is the opposite from how you encounter them if you are climbing on the eastern crags. The Jail House Rock is a minute's walk left from where the track meets the cliff. The track then leads past Buddy's and Rawl's Slabs, Bentham Wall, Foucault Buttress and finally Shape Shifter Arete, beyond which lies the Far East with Wednesday Buttress, Terrace Wall, Gin and Tonic Buttress and Xanadu. The Far East, the first crags to be described, are about 10 mins walk left from the Jail House Rock.

Peregrines nest in the Far East, which may require seasonal closures.
</text> <text id="359" class="heading2">The Far East</text> <text id="360" class="heading3">Xanadu Buttress</text> <text id="361" class="text">Xanadu Buttress is the 30m high buttress at the head of the valley, with the Pleasure Dome cave on its right side visible from Terrace Wall. Access is either from the bottom by walking a minute or two past the base of Wednesday Buttress, by abseil from the top of Kubla Khan or from a double bolt abseil point just past Gin and Tonic, or traversing in at the halfway level above Wednesday Buttress to the base of the Pleasure Dome, bisected by its beautifully sculpted white pillar - and it would be a shame if someone desecrated this unique formation with bolts! It is worth visiting here just to marvel at the wonders of geological time.</text> <image id="387" src="KublaKhan.jpg" height="1450" legend="true" legendTitle="Xanadu Buttress from the ground"> <drawing> <path id="9017" points="118,1435, 191,1017, 298,555,lower" d="M118.0,1435.0C147.2,1267.8 157.0,1183.3 191.0,1017.0C225.0,850.7 255.2,739.8 298.0,555.0" linkedTo="385"/> <path id="27999" points="331,558, 443,325, 424,189, 399,134, 423,76,lower" d="M331.0,558.0C375.8,464.8 429.6,378.3 443.0,325.0C456.4,271.7 429.4,212.5 424.0,189.0C418.6,165.5 399.2,158.2 399.0,134.0C398.8,109.8 413.4,99.2 423.0,76.0" linkedTo="362"/> <path id="18505" points="569,544, 471,389," d="M569.0,544.0C529.8,482.0 510.2,451.0 471.0,389.0" lineStyle="dotted" linkedTo="362"/> </drawing> <legend> <climb>385</climb> <climb>362</climb> </legend> </image> <climb id="385" stars="*" extra="5Þ" number="108." name="Xanadu" length="10m" grade="23" fa="Dave Stephenson, June 2018">The shortinteresting technical crux comes in the first 5m, after which the climbing eases significantly. Continuing up Kubla Khan on the easier upper arête as the climb was originally conceived makes for a nice 30m pitch.</climb> <image id="386" src="XanaduButtress_From_Terrace.jpg" height="1364" legend="true" legendTitle="Xanadu Buttress from Terrace Wall"> <drawing> <path id="51197" points="430,1379, 433,1379, 426,1370," d="M430.0,1379.0C431.2,1379.0 433.4,1380.1 433.0,1379.0C432.6,1377.9 428.8,1373.6 426.0,1370.0"/> <path id="56854" points="423,1375, 416,1348, 362,1257, 363,1004, 421,804, 442,543, 450,442,lower" d="M423.0,1375.0C422.6,1373.9 421.1,1357.9 416.0,1348.0C410.9,1338.1 368.4,1298.8 362.0,1257.0C355.6,1215.2 352.2,1086.6 363.0,1004.0C373.8,921.4 406.9,886.1 421.0,804.0C435.1,721.9 438.8,583.4 442.0,543.0C445.2,502.6 446.8,482.4 450.0,442.0" lineStyle="dotted" linkedTo="362"/> <path id="63453" points="852,547,lower" d="M852.0,547.0"/> </drawing> <legend> <climb>362</climb> </legend> </image> <climb id="362" stars="**" extra="11Þ" number="109." name="Kubla Khan" length="20m" grade="17" fa="Dave Stephenson and Neale Smith, June 2018">The adventurous arête to the left of Pleasure Dome cave - terrific positions and thoughtful climbing follow the initial less than perfect rock. It can be started in several ways: walking or abseiling to the Pleasure Dome cave at the middle level and then starting up the initial thin rib from inside of the cave, or by stepping around the rib to the left and climbing the slab behind the gum tree; or as a continuation of Xanadu, following the arête all the way from the bottom making for a 30m pitch.</climb> <image id="364" src="GinTonicXanadu.jpg" height="1571" legend="true" legendTitle="Gin and Tonic Buttress"> <drawing> <path id="42180" points="" linkedTo="362" d=""/> <path id="46133" points="20,575,lower" d="M20.0,575.0" linkedTo="362"/> <path id="65051" points="315,1562, 297,1182, 331,930, 387,604, 375,300, 430,38,lower" d="M315.0,1562.0C307.8,1410.0 294.4,1283.7 297.0,1182.0C299.6,1080.3 315.4,1030.5 331.0,930.0C346.6,829.5 378.5,725.4 387.0,604.0C395.5,482.6 366.9,406.8 375.0,300.0C383.1,193.2 408.0,142.8 430.0,38.0" linkedTo="368"/> <path id="77855" points="221,1299, 225,1220, 265,952, 304,788, 346,650, 338,467, 340,248, 356,143, 420,38," arrow="true" linkedTo="367" d="M221.0,1299.0C222.6,1267.4 221.0,1251.4 225.0,1220.0C229.0,1188.6 252.9,1018.3 265.0,952.0C277.1,885.7 289.1,843.7 304.0,788.0C318.9,732.3 339.9,707.4 346.0,650.0C352.1,592.6 339.1,540.3 338.0,467.0C336.9,393.7 337.6,290.4 340.0,248.0C342.4,205.6 340.9,182.7 356.0,143.0C371.1,103.3 394.4,80.0 420.0,38.0"/> <path id="19969" points="" d=""/> </drawing> <legend> <climb>362</climb> <climb>367</climb> <climb>368</climb> </legend> </image> <text id="365" class="heading3">Gin and Tonic Buttress</text> <text id="366" class="text">Small buttress of polished stone left of Terrace Wall, with a pair of routes that will lift your spirits.</text> <climb id="367" stars="**" extra="5Þ" number="110." name="Gin" length="12m" grade="18" fa="Tony McKenny and Dave Stephenson, May 2018">Some strong moves up the left side of the buttress.</climb> <climb id="368" stars="**" extra="6Þ" number="111." name="Tonic" length="12m" grade="20" fa="Dave Stephenson, May 2018">Refreshing sequence on the right side of the buttress with two cruxes, at the very bottom and the very top. Start at the thin seam just right of the nose.</climb> <text id="369" class="heading3">Terrace Wall</text> <text id="370" class="text">This north-facing wall of superb polished stone offers an outstanding concentration of vertical to slightly overhanging short routes. It is uninterrupted by ledges, so don't expect many rests! Located on the top level of crags directly above Wednesday Buttress, it's reached by walking five minutes past Shape Shifter Arête. A flat ledge runs along the base providing a convenient warm belay on a sunny winter day, but be wary of the drop off below.</text> <image id="371" src="TerraceWall_corrected.jpg" height="610" width="900" legend="true" legendTitle="Terrace Wall Left" legendx="703" legendy="8"> <drawing> <path id="61267" points="7,369, 70,251, 145,97, 254,24,lower" d="M7.0,369.0C32.2,321.8 45.8,298.7 70.0,251.0C94.2,203.3 112.0,137.8 145.0,97.0C178.0,56.2 210.4,53.2 254.0,24.0" linkedTo="372"/> <path id="31852" points="" d=""/> <path id="23030" points="" d="" linkedTo="372"/> <path id="10580" points="255,613, 255,599, 285,396, 323,235, 326,18,lower" d="M255.0,613.0C255.0,607.4 254.2,604.5 255.0,599.0C255.8,593.5 272.8,461.0 285.0,396.0C297.2,331.0 315.9,300.8 323.0,235.0C330.1,169.2 324.8,104.8 326.0,18.0" linkedTo="373"/> <path id="54037" points="640,573, 599,304, 504,204, 446,37,lower" d="M640.0,573.0C623.6,465.4 618.1,355.8 599.0,304.0C579.9,252.2 531.4,251.9 504.0,204.0C476.6,156.1 469.2,103.8 446.0,37.0" linkedTo="375"/> <path id="52448" points="796,597, 723,381, 530,86,lower" d="M796.0,597.0C766.8,510.6 765.1,461.9 723.0,381.0C680.9,300.1 607.2,204.0 530.0,86.0" linkedTo="374"/> <path id="76019" points="858,563, 651,162,lower" d="M858.0,563.0C775.2,402.6 733.8,322.4 651.0,162.0" linkedTo="376"/> <path id="56761" points="875,523, 861,376, 804,236,lower" d="M875.0,523.0C869.4,464.2 875.2,433.3 861.0,376.0C846.8,318.7 826.8,292.0 804.0,236.0" linkedTo="377"/> <path id="1207" points="796,616," d="M796.0,616.0"/> </drawing> <legend> <climb/> <climb>372</climb> <climb>373</climb> <climb>375</climb> <climb>374</climb> <climb>376</climb> <climb>377</climb> </legend> </image> <climb id="372" stars="*" extra="6Þ" number="112." name="Wallsend" length="14m" grade="19" fa="Bob Bull, May 2018">The left hand arête provides a lovely sequence of moves, with the crux coming near the top.</climb> <climb id="373" stars="**" extra="6Þ" number="113." name="The Magic Pudding" length="13m" grade="23" fa="Stu Scott, May 2018">The farthest left route of the wall proper, just right of the left hand arête. A thinnish start then fun moves to the top.</climb> <climb id="375" stars="***" extra="7Þ" number="114." name="Possible" length="14m" grade="23" fa="Dave Stephenson, May 2018">The second line. Interesting technical crux between 2nd and 3rd bolts leads to a slight jog left and a vague rest in the scoop, followed by sustained but easier wall climbing to the lower offs.</climb> <climb id="374" stars="***" extra="6Þ" number="115." name="Schadenfreude" length="14m" grade="22" fa="Stu Scott, May 2018">Thin start then sustained, thoughtful climbing up the left leaning third line. Great fun.</climb> <climb id="376" stars="*" extra="5Þ" number="116." name="Absent Friends" length="13m" grade="18" fa="Ben Maddison, May 2018">The fourth line. Nice.</climb> <climb id="377" stars="**" extra="5Þ" number="117." name="Set in Stone" length="14m" grade="19" fa="Ben Maddison, May 2018">The fifth line, with the crux layaways coming near the top.</climb> <climb id="378" stars="*" extra="5Þ" number="118." name="Mollycoddle" length="13m" grade="17" fa="Bob Bull, May 2018">The sixth line up the vague crack weakness - very pleasant.</climb> <climb id="380" stars="*" extra="4Þ" number="119." name="Comedy of Errors" length="12m" grade="21" fa="Stu Scott and Bob Bull">The seventh line. Interesting moves to a thin finish - worthwhile.</climb> <climb id="381" stars="**" extra="6Þ" number="120." name="Intelligent Design" length="12m" grade="20" fa="Bob Bull, May 2018">The overhanging right hand arête - excellent.</climb> <image id="382" legend="true" legendTitle="Terrace Wall Right" src="IntelligentDesign.jpg" height="906"> <drawing> <path id="5137" points="374,206,lower" d="M374.0,206.0" linkedTo="381"/> <path id="88794" points="0,357, 102,260,lower" d="M.0,357.0C40.8,318.2 61.2,298.8 102.0,260.0" linkedTo="380"/> </drawing> <legend> <climb>380</climb> <climb>381</climb> </legend> </image> <text class="heading3" id="193">Wednesday Buttress</text> <text class="text" id="194">This delightful buttress has a brace of worthwhile routes. Follow the base of the cliffline for 10 minutes past Foucault Buttress, dropping down to the bottom of the buttress.</text> <image id="199" src="IMG_2838.jpg" height="600" width="800" legend="true" legendy="0" legendx="-1"> <drawing> <path id="91514" linkedTo="195" d="M233.0,71.0C229.4,87.0 234.3,98.2 224.0,111.0C213.7,123.8 189.5,142.3 163.0,158.0C136.5,173.7 80.8,197.5 60.0,208.0C39.2,218.5 19.9,215.5 9.0,236.0C-1.9,256.5 3.1,311.8 3.0,315.0C2.9,318.2 10.5,315.8 10.0,319.0C9.5,322.2 1.1,325.8 1.0,329.0C.9,332.2 6.8,335.6 7.0,341.0C7.2,346.4 2.1,348.9 2.0,354.0C1.9,359.1 14.1,352.9 14.0,358.0C13.9,363.1 1.1,363.9 1.0,369.0C.9,374.1 6.6,375.7 7.0,381.0C7.4,386.3 2.2,390.1 3.0,394.0C3.8,397.9 11.2,396.0 11.0,400.0C10.8,404.0 1.0,411.7 2.0,417.0C3.0,422.3 15.1,415.6 15.0,421.0C14.9,426.4 2.1,426.6 2.0,432.0C1.9,437.4 15.1,430.6 15.0,436.0C14.9,441.4 2.1,447.3 1.0,452.0C-.1,456.7 8.8,456.2 9.0,461.0C9.2,465.8 1.5,468.9 2.0,474.0C2.5,479.1 11.0,477.9 11.0,483.0C11.0,488.1 2.5,488.1 2.0,493.0C1.5,497.9 9.2,498.1 9.0,503.0C8.8,507.9 1.2,511.4 1.0,516.0C.8,520.6 8.2,520.4 8.0,525.0C7.8,529.6 -.2,532.9 .0,537.0C.2,541.1 8.1,538.0 9.0,542.0C9.9,546.0 3.6,551.8 4.0,555.0C4.4,558.2 11.0,555.8 11.0,559.0C11.0,562.2 3.8,566.9 4.0,571.0C4.2,575.1 15.8,568.9 16.0,573.0C16.2,577.1 2.8,579.9 3.0,584.0C3.2,588.1 12.8,581.9 13.0,586.0C13.2,590.1 2.0,592.9 4.0,596.0C6.0,599.1 11.0,594.9 13.0,598.0" points="233,71,lower 224,111, 163,158, 60,208, 9,236, 3,315, 10,319, 1,329, 7,341, 2,354, 14,358, 1,369, 7,381, 3,394, 11,400, 2,417, 15,421, 2,432, 15,436, 1,452, 9,461, 2,474, 11,483, 2,493, 9,503, 1,516, 8,525, 0,537, 9,542, 4,555, 11,559, 4,571, 16,573, 3,584, 13,586, 4,596, 13,598,"/> <path id="10711" d="M410.0,31.0" points="410,31,lower"/> <path id="59285" linkedTo="197" d="M375.0,35.0C355.0,51.0 342.2,59.9 325.0,75.0C307.8,90.1 297.5,96.5 284.0,115.0C270.5,133.5 266.4,154.8 255.0,171.0C243.6,187.2 230.7,190.5 220.0,206.0C209.3,221.5 207.9,231.5 201.0,249.0C194.1,266.5 180.2,288.3 176.0,317.0C171.8,345.7 169.4,401.0 171.0,456.0C172.6,511.0 178.8,538.2 184.0,593.0" points="375,35, 325,75, 284,115, 255,171, 220,206, 201,249, 176,317, 171,456, 184,593,"/> <path id="13745" linkedTo="198" d="M443.0,34.0C477.0,56.4 518.7,78.8 528.0,90.0C537.3,101.2 522.1,111.0 518.0,125.0C513.9,139.0 511.1,150.0 506.0,165.0C500.9,180.0 491.1,186.6 492.0,202.0C492.9,217.4 506.0,226.8 510.0,236.0C514.0,245.2 514.0,251.8 517.0,260.0C520.0,268.2 522.6,273.7 526.0,280.0C529.4,286.3 532.6,288.7 536.0,295.0C539.4,301.3 540.9,318.4 552.0,328.0C563.1,337.6 595.8,334.0 607.0,356.0C618.2,378.0 660.9,533.6 666.0,551.0C671.1,568.4 672.6,577.4 677.0,595.0" points="443,34, 528,90, 518,125, 506,165, 492,202, 510,236, 517,260, 526,280, 536,295, 552,328, 607,356, 666,551, 677,595,"/> <path id="82544" d="" points=""/> <path id="36215" d="" points=""/> </drawing> <legend> <climb>195</climb> <climb>197</climb> <climb>198</climb> </legend> </image> <climb name="The Channel Highway" id="195" stars="*" extra="Trad" number="121." length="18m" grade="17" fa="Ben Maddison & Ingrid Crossland November 2017">Start up the short corner on the LHS of the buttress (not shown on topo), to the main flake crack . Up the channel between two flakes trend L up juggy steep rock to lower off.</climb> <climb name="Risk A Verse" id="197" stars="**" extra="6Þ" number="122." length="15m" grade="19" fa="Ben Maddison & Ingrid Crossland November 2017">A good sport route. The line L of Channel Highway. A delicate start leads to some tasty flake work in the upper half.</climb> <climb name="Wednesday's Groove" id="198" stars="**" extra="6Þ" number="123." length="15m" grade="22" fa="Ben Maddison & Ingrid Crossland November 2017">A beautiful open-book groove. A crimpy but short lived crux on excellent rock.</climb> <text id="383" class="heading2">Panopticon Central</text> <text id="384" class="text">From where the track hits the cliff line at Trail End Crag and continues leftwards to Shape Shifter Arête, there are a range of buttresses with a concentration of quality routes from the high teens to the low twenties.</text> <text class="heading3" id="202">Shape Shifter Arête
</text> <text class="text" id="204">100m left of Foucault buttress is an obvious sharp arête.</text> <image id="224" src="ShapeShifter.jpg" height="1510" legend="true" legendTitle="Shape Shifter Arête"> <drawing> <path id="32547" linkedTo="203" d="M452.0,1026.0C494.0,837.6 552.9,735.3 557.0,555.0C561.1,374.7 506.6,289.2 473.0,112.0" points="452,1026, 557,555, 473,112,lower"/> </drawing> <legend> <climb>203</climb> </legend> </image> <climb name="Shape Shifter" id="203" stars="*" extra="8Þ" number="124." length="17m" grade="18" fa="Bob Bull and the Plebs">Arête climbing with some interesting positions and nice balancy moves.</climb> <text class="heading3" id="217">Knowledge and Power Buttress</text> <text class="text" id="218">The small buttresses just left of Foucault Buttress, with the red overhang on the right side.</text> <image id="231" src="BullyKnowledgePowerSmall.jpg" height="1042" legend="true" legendTitle="Knowledge and Power Buttress"> <drawing> <path id="82677" linkedTo="232" d="M21.0,973.0C81.0,780.6 144.2,566.0 171.0,492.0C197.8,418.0 250.3,330.7 259.0,316.0C267.7,301.3 278.8,299.8 292.0,289.0" points="21,973, 171,492, 259,316, 292,289,lower"/> <path id="42054" linkedTo="219" d="M421.0,976.0C443.0,775.6 472.6,550.3 476.0,475.0C479.4,399.7 436.1,361.7 452.0,288.0C467.9,214.3 554.7,102.8 562.0,75.0" points="421,976, 476,475, 452,288, 562,75,lower"/> <path id="27906" linkedTo="220" d="M686.0,975.0C708.8,766.6 748.6,520.0 743.0,454.0C737.4,388.0 652.5,376.8 631.0,332.0C609.5,287.2 627.8,237.1 625.0,208.0C622.2,178.9 622.3,162.8 612.0,136.0C601.7,109.2 566.7,102.8 574.0,75.0" points="686,975, 743,454, 631,332, 625,208, 612,136, 574,75,lower"/> </drawing> <legend> <climb>232</climb> <climb>219</climb> <climb>220</climb> </legend> </image> <climb name="Copacetic" id="232" stars="*" extra="8Þ" number="125." length="16m" grade="17" fa="S.North, C.Watson, B.Bull. December 2017">The left hand buttress with a prominent gum tree halfway up. Up the buttress then climb the upper arête on the right hand side to the top.</climb> <climb name="Knowledge" id="219" stars="*" extra="5Þ" number="126." length="12m" grade="20" fa="Dave Stephenson, Nov 2017">Left of overhanging arête, with interesting moves up the bulging wall, finishing up top arête.</climb> <climb name="Power" id="220" stars="*" extra="5Þ" number="127." length="12m" grade="22" fa="Dave Stephenson, December 2017">Short and sharp. Overhanging orange arête on right, then overhang, finishing on blunt upper arête using last bolt and lower offs as for Knowledge.</climb> <text class="heading3" id="154">Foucault Buttress</text> <text class="text" id="172">Left of Bentham Wall is an area of slabs, then a prominent right facing corner which arches into a roof at the top. The routes are a bit longer than those at Bentham Wall. The rock quality is not quite as good as Bentham Wall but the architecture and positions are excellent.</text> <image id="200" src="FoucaultButtressSmall.jpg" height="1208" width="800" legend="true" legendTitle="Foucault Buttress" legendy="5" legendx="619"> <drawing> <path id="20786" linkedTo="151" d="M317.0,1202.0C306.2,995.2 289.6,807.6 290.0,685.0C290.4,562.4 300.8,426.1 320.0,380.0C339.2,333.9 404.9,368.1 436.0,334.0C467.1,299.9 468.3,251.4 464.0,222.0C459.7,192.6 420.4,182.0 412.0,169.0C403.6,156.0 400.2,145.7 405.0,131.0C409.8,116.3 432.1,110.3 437.0,93.0C441.9,75.7 431.6,66.6 428.0,49.0" points="317,1202, 290,685, 320,380, 436,334, 464,222, 412,169, 405,131, 437,93, 428,49,lower"/> <path id="12183" linkedTo="150" d="M502.0,1199.0C534.0,952.2 576.7,643.2 582.0,582.0C587.3,520.8 575.5,470.3 569.0,429.0C562.5,387.7 555.5,367.6 542.0,328.0C528.5,288.4 497.6,237.0 497.0,218.0C496.4,199.0 530.1,206.1 538.0,194.0C545.9,181.9 536.8,172.4 536.0,158.0" points="502,1199, 582,582, 569,429, 542,328, 497,218, 538,194, 536,158,lower"/> <path id="40718" linkedTo="221" d="M2.0,52.0C39.2,32.4 57.8,22.6 95.0,3.0" points="2,52, 95,3,lower"/> </drawing> <legend> <climb>221</climb> <climb>151</climb> <climb>150</climb> </legend> </image> <climb name="Bittersweet" id="221" stars="*" extra="10Þ" number="128." length="22m" grade="16" fa="Tony McKenny and Dave Stephenson, December 2017">Start in the middle of wall 12m right of Power and to the left of Deconstructionism. Up crack line, traverse right and then climb excellent brushed slab,keeping left at the top.</climb> <climb name="Deconstructionism" id="151" stars="***" extra="12Þ" number="129." length="24m" grade="20" fa="Dave Stephenson, Oct 2017.">Sharp arête on left wall of big corner leads to a step right over the top of the roof to follow blunt arête to right. Balance up the polished slab below the upper roof, finishing with hanging corner at top.</climb> <climb name="Power Over Mind " id="150" stars="***" extra="12Þ" number="130." length="24m" grade="18" fa="Dave Stephenson, Oct 2017.">Start at slab just right of enormous right facing corner, directly below a disused falcon perch high in the corner. Follow corner above, then before reaching the falcon perch make exciting moves up and left across the overlaps, and continue up the wall above to the lower offs.</climb> <climb name="Port Arthur" id="297" stars="*" extra="8Þ " number="131." length="22m" grade="12" fa="Chuck McGibbon, Bob Bull, March 2018.">Clean slab climbing to the right of Power over Mind.</climb> <climb name="Guantanamo Bay" id="298" stars="*" extra="9Þ " number="132." length="24m" grade="13" fa="Chuck McGibbon, March 2018.">Slab to the right of Port Arthur.</climb> <text class="heading3" id="152">Bentham Wall</text> <text class="text" id="153">Five minutes left from The Jail House Rock is Bentham Wall. To the right are Rawl's Slabs (that have a couple of tagged routes), and to the left is Foucault Buttress. The area is named after Jeremy Bentham who designed the Panopticon. Great for those with a fetish....</text> <image id="178" src="BenthamWallLeft2.jpg" height="530" width="800" legend="true" legendTitle="Bentham Wall Left" legendy="13" legendx="17"> <drawing> <path id="84281" linkedTo="148" d="M106.0,502.0C122.4,452.8 140.0,402.9 147.0,379.0C154.0,355.1 155.4,342.5 160.0,318.0C164.6,293.5 171.4,242.4 178.0,213.0C184.6,183.6 188.8,158.4 200.0,141.0C211.2,123.6 227.7,126.0 243.0,112.0C258.3,98.0 285.9,62.4 286.0,62.0" points="106,502, 147,379, 160,318, 178,213, 200,141, 243,112, 286,62,lower"/> <path id="20455" linkedTo="146" d="M347.0,515.0C358.6,436.2 370.3,347.9 376.0,318.0C381.7,288.1 424.0,210.9 433.0,174.0C442.0,137.1 409.6,108.1 434.0,79.0C458.4,49.9 521.7,69.8 538.0,49.0" points="347,515, 376,318, 433,174, 434,79, 538,49,lower"/> <path id="6752" linkedTo="161" d="M376.0,319.0C381.7,289.1 371.1,261.8 370.0,243.0C368.9,224.2 373.8,213.1 369.0,196.0C364.2,178.9 352.6,168.5 346.0,158.0C339.4,147.5 333.7,143.5 329.0,132.0C324.3,120.5 320.9,90.6 314.0,79.0C307.1,67.4 285.9,60.4 286.0,60.0C286.1,59.6 286.0,59.0 286.0,59.0C286.0,59.0 286.0,59.0 286.0,59.0" points="376,319, 370,243, 369,196, 346,158,label 329,132, 314,79, 286,60,lower 286,59, 286,59,"/> <path id="14306" linkedTo="147" d="M777.0,513.0C757.4,447.4 749.5,400.3 728.0,349.0C706.5,297.7 671.7,249.5 658.0,229.0C644.3,208.5 630.7,203.5 617.0,183.0C603.3,162.5 588.7,127.6 575.0,105.0C561.3,82.4 520.7,71.8 537.0,51.0" points="777,513, 728,349, 658,229, 617,183, 575,105, 537,51,lower"/> <path id="84957" linkedTo="145" d="M797.0,313.0C755.0,241.8 711.6,164.5 692.0,135.0C672.4,105.5 657.2,94.8 634.0,68.0" points="797,313, 692,135, 634,68,lower"/> <path id="99611" linkedTo="184" d="M796.0,106.0C766.0,99.6 751.0,96.4 721.0,90.0" points="796,106, 721,90,lower"/> </drawing> <legend> <climb>148</climb> <climb>161</climb> <climb>146</climb> <climb>147</climb> <climb>145</climb> <climb>184</climb> </legend> </image> <climb name="Prohibition " id="148" stars="*" extra="Trad" number="133." length="18m" grade="17" fa="Ben Maddison, Ingrid Crossland & Neale Smith, Oct 2017.">A nice trad route. God forbid! Up the crack to lower-offs.</climb> <climb name="Break Out" id="161" stars="*" extra="10Þ" number="134." length="18m" grade="19" fa="Ben Maddison & Ingrid Crossland, October 2017">Left hand variant of Good Yard. Break left after fourth bolt of Good Yard. Finish up slab leading to lower-offs for Prohibition.</climb> <climb name="Good Yard" id="146" stars="**" extra="9Þ" number="135." length="16m" grade="20" fa="Ben Maddison and Ingrid Crossland, October 2017.">The tricky groove leading to a roof, right of Prohibition. Above roof trend right to lower-offs.</climb> <climb name="Recidivist" id="147" stars="***" extra="9Þ" number="136." length="17m" grade="20" fa="Ben Maddison and Ingrid Crossland, Oct 2017.">Really classy climbing for repeat offenders. The line right of Good Yard, surmounting the bulge above the orange wall.</climb> <climb name="Felicific Calculus " id="145" stars="**" extra="7Þ" number="137." length="15m" grade="24?" fa="Stu Scott and the Plebs">The Pleasure Algorithm. Thin and complex climbing on a beautiful piece of rock. Entertainment to satisfy the most discerning hedonists.</climb> <climb name="Fundamental Axiom " id="184" stars="*" extra="6Þ" number="138." length="15m" grade="19" fa="Stu and Plebs">Short and sweet with an inky pinky finish.</climb> <image id="208" src="BenthamRightStitch.jpg" height="1135" width="900" legend="true" legendTitle="Bentham Wall Right" legendy="7" legendx="717"> <drawing> <path id="1183" linkedTo="144" d="M44.0,1109.0C45.6,844.2 17.8,581.3 48.0,447.0C78.2,312.7 220.3,227.4 255.0,172.0C289.7,116.6 291.0,80.8 315.0,20.0" points="44,1109, 48,447, 255,172, 315,20,lower"/> <path id="61485" linkedTo="143" d="M200.0,1112.0C214.8,927.6 210.1,790.0 237.0,651.0C263.9,512.0 331.5,395.9 354.0,317.0C376.5,238.1 388.0,145.8 390.0,115.0C392.0,84.2 379.2,70.0 372.0,40.0" points="200,1112, 237,651, 354,317, 390,115, 372,40,lower"/> <path id="60704" linkedTo="142" d="M614.0,1002.0C575.6,680.0 524.7,240.4 518.0,197.0C511.3,153.6 492.2,136.4 475.0,96.0" points="614,1002, 518,197, 475,96,lower"/> <path id="55890" linkedTo="155" d="M881.0,903.0C831.4,718.2 789.4,517.8 757.0,441.0C724.6,364.2 641.6,316.8 620.0,284.0C598.4,251.2 605.8,214.1 592.0,190.0C578.2,165.9 560.8,162.4 540.0,144.0" points="881,903, 757,441, 620,284, 592,190, 540,144,lower"/> <path id="4320" linkedTo="162" d="M6.0,160.0C47.6,100.8 68.4,71.2 110.0,12.0" points="6,160, 110,12,lower"/> </drawing> <legend> <climb>162</climb> <climb>144</climb> <climb>143</climb> <climb>142</climb> <climb>155</climb> </legend> </image> <climb name="Utilitarianism" id="162" stars="*" extra="6Þ " number="139." length="14m" grade="14" fa="Chuck McGibbon and the Plebs, Oct 2017.">"The greatest Happiness for the greatest number". The crack to lower offs. Nice.</climb> <climb name="Pain " id="144" stars="***" extra="10Þ" number="140." length="17m" grade="24" fa="Stu Scott and the Plebs">Bentham's motivational theory had two parts..... Pain, when it is intense, is sometimes described as "exquisite". This is.</climb> <climb name="The Fine Line " id="143" stars="**" extra="10Þ" number="141." length="17m" grade="23" fa="Stu Scott and Plebs, Oct 2017.">"The fine line between Pleasure and Pain". It actually is... fine!?</climb> <climb name="Pleasure" id="142" stars="***" extra="9Þ" number="142." length="17m" grade="21" fa="Stu Scott and the Plebs, Oct 2017.">A short climb that will feel much longer. Straight forward fun.</climb> <climb name="Bentham's Nose " id="155" stars="*" extra="7Þ" number="143." length="16m" grade="19" fa="Chuck McGibbon and the plebs, Oct 2017.">The arête. Use the last couple of bolts on Pleasure to reach the top. Inky Pinky start. A nice warm up for the Benthemite Trilogy.</climb> <text class="heading3" id="171">Rawl's Slabs</text> <climb name="First Offence" id="164" stars="" extra="Trad" number="144." length="16m" grade="18" fa="Ben Maddison & Ingrid Crossland October 2017.">Good moves, well protected (small wires and medium cams) but a little dusty. The cleaned line on the left hand side of Rawl's Slabs. Up the corner at the left side of the slab, into a fine groove and flake to lower-offs.

</climb> <text class="heading3" id="283">Rib and Slab Buttress</text> <climb name="3G" id="281" stars="" extra="6Þ" number="145." length="16m" grade="10" fa="J.Boucher, Cadi & Eli Pritchard, Lex,Toby & Bob.Bull. Feb. 2018">50m right of Rawl's Slab is a buttress close to the track with a slab at its right hand side at the top. So named as three generations of the family completed first ascent. Start at the left hang side of the buttress at a short crack, step right onto the buttress trending right to finish up the arête of the slab at the top.</climb> <text class="heading3" id="190">Buddy's Slabs</text> <text class="text" id="180">Left of The Jail House Rock is a short set of slabs. They will be popular easy climbs but were truly heroic to clean.</text> <image id="206" src="Buddy'sSlabs.jpg" height="1449" width="900" legend="true" legendTitle="Buddy's Slabs"> <drawing> <path id="70821" linkedTo="183" d="M367.0,1394.0C370.6,1361.2 372.7,1344.8 376.0,1312.0C379.3,1279.2 464.2,402.6 474.0,315.0C483.8,227.4 496.8,184.8 512.0,98.0" points="367,1394, 376,1312, 474,315, 512,98,lower"/> <path id="23451" linkedTo="191" d="M887.0,446.0C800.2,293.6 756.8,217.4 670.0,65.0" points="887,446, 670,65,"/> </drawing> <legend> <climb>183</climb> <climb>191</climb> </legend> </image> <climb name="The Brush Off " id="183" stars="" extra="4Þ" number="146." length="13m " grade="13" fa="Bob Bull and Plebs">The obvious brushed line up the slab.</climb> <climb name="Join the Circus" id="191" stars="" extra="Trad" number="147." length="13m" grade="14" fa="Ingrid Crossland & Ben Maddison November 2017">A really nice trad crack climb. The crack immediately R of The Brush Off.</climb> <text class="heading3" id="171">The Jail House Rock</text> <text class="text" id="177">Walking left a few minutes from where the track first meets the cliff line, this is the very prominent bolted buttress.</text> <image id="205" src="JailHouseRock.jpg" height="1430" width="900" legend="true" legendTitle="Jail House Rock"> <drawing> <path id="48358" linkedTo="42" d="M111.0,1255.0C119.4,1046.6 118.5,834.8 132.0,734.0C145.5,633.2 189.3,551.6 213.0,493.0C236.7,434.4 277.9,385.1 286.0,353.0C294.1,320.9 260.6,304.0 269.0,272.0C277.4,240.0 307.7,205.9 334.0,170.0C360.3,134.1 377.2,119.0 406.0,85.0" points="111,1255, 132,734, 213,493, 286,353, 269,272, 334,170, 406,85,lower"/> <path id="56206" linkedTo="37" d="M385.0,1339.0C379.4,1012.2 368.2,640.3 371.0,522.0C373.8,403.7 405.1,254.2 411.0,229.0C416.9,203.8 451.3,204.9 452.0,179.0C452.7,153.1 429.8,121.4 415.0,83.0" points="385,1339, 371,522, 411,229, 452,179, 415,83,"/> <path id="78792" linkedTo="43" d="M688.0,1297.0C643.6,924.6 597.6,502.6 577.0,366.0C556.4,229.4 529.0,164.4 497.0,30.0" points="688,1297, 577,366, 497,30,lower"/> <path id="87106" linkedTo="44" d="M892.0,758.0C776.0,588.4 619.8,367.0 602.0,334.0C584.2,301.0 621.5,277.8 614.0,241.0C606.5,204.2 584.6,187.6 565.0,152.0" points="892,758, 602,334, 614,241, 565,152,lower"/> </drawing> <legend> <climb/> <climb/> <climb>42</climb> <climb>37</climb> <climb>43</climb> <climb>44</climb> </legend> </image> <climb name=" Crime and Punishment " id="42" stars="*" extra="7Þ " number="148." length="17m" grade="17" fa="Dave Stephenson, Stu Scott and Tony McKenny, June 2017.">Climbs the left hand arête.</climb> <climb name="Guilty, as Charged. " id="37" stars="*" extra="7Þ" number="149." length="16m" grade="18" fa="Tony McKenny, Stu Scott and Dave Stephenson, June 2017.">Starts at base of thin crack, a couple of metres right of arête.</climb> <climb name="Impeachment " id="43" stars="*" extra="7Þ " number="150." length="17m" grade="17" fa="Stu Scott, Dave Stephenson and Tony McKenny, June 2017.">Climbs the steep wall a couple of metres right of Guilty as Charged, finishing up the arête.</climb> <climb name="Special Prosecutor " id="44" stars="*" extra="8Þ" number="151." length="17m" grade="18" fa="Stu Scott, Dave Stephenson and Tony McKenny, June 2017.">Climbs the right hand arête and trends right, sharing a bolt at mid height with Impeachment before climbing the steep head wall on the right.</climb> <climb name="Join the Dots" id="62" stars="**" extra="8Þ " number="152." length="17m" grade="18" fa="Stu Scott, Dave Stephenson and Tony McKenny, June 2017.">A good alternative combination, at about the same grade, is to climb the first section of Special Prosecutor to the shared bolt, and finish up the top arête of Impeachment.</climb> <climb name="Disciplinary Power" id="160" stars="" extra="" number="153." length="16m" grade="13" fa="B. Armstrong and J. Ridgers, Oct 2017">The trad crack several meters to the right of the Special Prosecutor arete. Nice jamming to an inconvenient tree, then follow the easy low angle crack and corner to the Special Prosecutor DBB.</climb> <text class="heading3" id="312">Trail End Crag</text> <text class="text" id="313">The buttress just left of where the track meets the cliff, with a massive orange overhang.</text> <image id="346" src="FengShui2.jpg" height="1208" legend="true" legendTitle="Trail End Crag"> <drawing> <path id="24824" linkedTo="329" d="M187.0,1200.0C187.3,1198.8 189.7,1201.2 190.0,1200.0C190.3,1198.8 218.9,999.0 271.0,876.0C323.1,753.0 482.5,538.1 504.0,458.0C525.5,377.9 455.6,300.3 436.0,262.0C416.4,223.7 392.2,214.6 363.0,183.0" points="187,1200, 190,1200, 271,876, 504,458, 436,262, 363,183,lower"/> <path id="32246" points="4,464, 166,315, 205,296, 154,118," d="M4.0,464.0C68.8,404.4 152.7,326.1 166.0,315.0C179.3,303.9 206.1,313.3 205.0,296.0C203.9,278.7 174.4,189.2 154.0,118.0" linkedTo="207"/> </drawing> <legend> <climb>207</climb> <climb>329</climb> </legend> </image> <climb name="China Shop" id="328" stars="*" extra="7Þ" number="154." length="15m" grade="19" fa="Bob Bull and Stu Scott, April 2018.">The thin crack on the left, passing over several small overhangs.</climb> <text class="heading3" id="311"/> <climb name="Casadastraphobia" id="207" stars="" extra="" number="155." length="15m" grade="22" fa="Hamish Jackson">The wildly overhanging crack line in the middle of the buttress is a fine struggle with good gear and reasonable rock in the difficult sections. A number of large 'death blocks' have been removed from the top section and the climb is now approachable. Take left line on top section (rock up right line very fragile). You can either trad belay then move across to lower from FS anchors, or with long slings on top section belay might be possible from FS anchors.</climb> <climb name="Feng Shui" id="329" stars="**" extra="8Þ" number="156." length="23m" grade="18" fa="Bob Bull. Ben Maddison. Neale Smith. March 2018">Just to the right of the corner on the left facing wall. Easy moves up to short wall then tricky move to arête and up over overhang and up easy angled slab to rings. Worth belaying here and savouring views down the valley before rapping off.</climb> <text class="heading2" id="322">Panopticon South</text> <text class="text" id="268">This area contains the best easier routes at Sand River combined with some neat test pieces. The rock is great and some of the routes are comparatively long.

You will soon enter private land. The farmer is great but he has clearly stated NO DOGS.

The track meets the cliff near a large cherry tree with a short, steep crag behind, Larceny Wall. Walking right for a few minutes leads you past a number of small crags before reaching Twin Towers, the two prominent buttresses joined at the top by an arch over a deep hole that are clearly visible from the other side of the valley. You are now on private land (the boundary is marked by a large painted pink arrow beside the track) for which limited access to Twin Towers has been negotiated by the CCT. Access has not been given for other cliffs on private land - do not jeopardise this and any future access issues by exploring further.

These crags mostly face west and are cooler than the north facing crags, not getting the sun until midday.</text> <text class="heading3" id="314">Larceny Wall</text> <text class="text" id="353">The steep wall has three excellent climbs on very good rock. Just a pity it isn't taller!</text> <image id="334" src="Aborist.jpg" height="1208" legend="true" legendTitle="Larceny Wall"> <drawing> <path id="68284" linkedTo="306" d="M292.0,1196.0C320.4,902.4 342.4,624.9 363.0,462.0C383.6,299.1 406.8,219.6 436.0,58.0" points="292,1196, 363,462, 436,58,lower"/> <path id="33231" linkedTo="315" d="M523.0,1189.0C537.8,1067.4 534.4,963.8 560.0,885.0C585.6,806.2 674.3,796.8 677.0,714.0C679.7,631.2 617.7,517.6 576.0,391.0C534.3,264.4 490.7,207.2 467.0,76.0" points="523,1189, 560,885, 677,714, 576,391, 467,76,lower"/> <path id="42950" points="418,1189, 507,666, 450,63,lower" d="M418.0,1189.0C453.6,979.8 501.0,878.1 507.0,666.0C513.0,453.9 473.7,194.2 450.0,63.0" linkedTo="348"/> </drawing> <legend> <climb>306</climb> <climb>348</climb> <climb>315</climb> </legend> </image> <climb name="Chutzpah" id="306" stars="*" extra="5Þ" number="157." length="10m" grade="16" fa="T. McKenny and N. Smith, March 2018">The steep and pumpy crack to the left, moving right at the top to the rap station.</climb> <climb name="Stitched Up " id="348" stars="" extra="5Þ " number="158." length="10m" grade="18" fa="T. McKenny and O. Gervasoni, April 2018.">The smooth bouldery wall just right of Chutzpah. Finish at Chutzpah rap station on left.</climb> <climb name="Light Fingered McKenny " id="315" stars="" extra="6Þ" number="159." length="10m" grade="20" fa="Stu Scott and the Plebs, April 2018">Climb the middle of the wall on layaways. Finish as for Chutzpah.</climb> <image id="335" src="Haiku.jpg" height="1208" legend="true" legendTitle="Haiku"> <drawing> <path id="63655" linkedTo="332" d="M393.0,1197.0C393.2,1196.2 394.8,1197.8 395.0,1197.0C395.2,1196.2 479.1,988.8 483.0,843.0C486.9,697.2 405.6,548.1 414.0,485.0C422.4,421.9 532.9,454.8 543.0,392.0C553.1,329.2 459.1,314.3 451.0,256.0C442.9,197.7 483.4,173.8 505.0,119.0" points="393,1197, 395,1197, 483,843, 414,485, 543,392, 451,256, 505,119,lower"/> <path id="89894" linkedTo="347" d="M669.0,1184.0C669.0,957.6 672.4,759.4 669.0,618.0C665.6,476.6 650.5,298.9 647.0,265.0C643.5,231.1 633.2,215.8 624.0,183.0" points="669,1184, 669,618, 647,265, 624,183,lower"/> </drawing> <legend> <climb>332</climb> <climb>347</climb> </legend> </image> <climb name="Haiku" id="332" stars="**" extra="6Þ" number="160." length="12m" grade="17" fa="Bob Bull, March 2018">Around the corner to the right on the south facing wall. Climb a short hand crack, followed by exciting moves up the steep wall above. Excellent.</climb> <climb name="Cat Burglar" id="347" stars="*" extra="5b" number="161." length="12m" grade="20" fa="Neale Smith and the Plebs April 2018">A different style of climbing is required for this steep line.</climb> <text class="text" id="317">A short walk further right leads to a prominent corner.</text> <image id="336" src="CherryRipe.jpg" height="1208" legend="true" legendTitle="Kaiden Fox"> <drawing> <path id="68879" linkedTo="294" d="M181.0,1194.0C181.2,1193.2 182.8,1194.8 183.0,1194.0C183.2,1193.2 298.8,687.6 324.0,569.0C349.2,450.4 357.0,390.2 379.0,271.0" points="181,1194, 183,1194, 324,569, 379,271,lower"/> </drawing> <legend> <climb>294</climb> </legend> </image> <climb name="Kaiden Fox" id="294" stars="*" extra="6Þ" number="162." length="12m" grade="19" fa="Stu Scott, Dave Stephenson, Neale Smith. April 2018">Named after the land owner's son who waves at all the cars going past his house. Wide open book corner with small roof. Nice moves to the very last.</climb> <image id="337" src="CherryPie.jpg" height="1208" legend="true" legendTitle="Traditional Cherry Pie"> <drawing> <path id="27709" linkedTo="293" d="M426.0,1056.0C426.0,1055.2 428.0,1056.8 428.0,1056.0C428.0,1055.2 461.1,478.8 462.0,429.0C462.9,379.2 450.0,355.2 442.0,306.0" points="426,1056, 428,1056, 462,429, 442,306,lower"/> </drawing> <legend> <climb>293</climb> </legend> </image> <climb name="Traditional Cherry Pie" id="293" stars="" extra="" number="163." length="9m" grade="15" fa="Carol Hurst and Stu Scott March 2018">The nice looking trad crack just right of the Cherry Tree with double lower offs. Solidly protected with smallish to medium cams.</climb> <text class="heading3" id="321">Strolling Bones Buttress</text> <text class="text" id="302">Strolling Bones Buttress overhangs the track before reaching Black Face and Twin Towers.</text> <image id="338" src="StrollingBones.jpg" height="1208" legend="true" legendTitle="Strolling Bones Buttress"> <drawing> <path id="88583" linkedTo="303" d="M64.0,1183.0C64.8,1183.0 65.9,1183.8 66.0,1183.0C66.1,1182.2 111.7,884.4 130.0,786.0C148.3,687.6 164.4,622.0 185.0,542.0C205.6,462.0 240.6,406.4 244.0,344.0C247.4,281.6 200.3,240.5 204.0,193.0C207.7,145.5 228.9,120.9 264.0,90.0C299.1,59.1 328.8,63.0 372.0,45.0" points="64,1183, 66,1183, 130,786, 185,542, 244,344, 204,193, 264,90, 372,45,lower"/> <path id="68979" linkedTo="304" d="M706.0,1185.0C698.0,1020.6 723.8,918.0 686.0,774.0C648.2,630.0 543.6,509.2 512.0,445.0C480.4,380.8 451.5,328.7 443.0,280.0C434.5,231.3 474.9,205.7 462.0,158.0C449.1,110.3 412.8,91.4 380.0,47.0" points="706,1185, 686,774, 512,445, 443,280, 462,158, 380,47,lower"/> <path id="94483" linkedTo="345" d="M257.0,1181.0C299.8,1043.0 326.5,940.0 364.0,836.0C401.5,732.0 488.2,691.5 473.0,582.0C457.8,472.5 274.9,168.3 265.0,122.0C255.1,75.7 321.4,78.8 359.0,50.0" points="257,1181, 364,836, 473,582, 265,122, 359,50,lower"/> </drawing> <legend> <climb>303</climb> <climb>345</climb> <climb>304</climb> </legend> </image> <climb name="Strolling Bones" id="303" stars="*" extra="6Þ" number="164." length="13m" grade="19" fa="Dave Stephenson, Bob Bull, Neale Smith. March 2018">Pleasant climbing up the steep red corner on the left, with the crux on the overhanging left-hand arête above, then easily up and right to lower offs.</climb> <climb name="Let Them Lead" id="345" stars="**" extra="7Þ" number="165." length="13m" grade="22" fa="Dave Stephenson, April 2018">Up the middle, crux going over the roof then the juggy overhanging wall above. Classy.</climb> <climb name="Stickmen Fingers" id="304" stars="*" extra="7Þ" number="166." length="13m" grade="22" fa="Dave Stephenson, March 2018">The overhanging right-hand arête. Easily up the crack on the right to the crux 1.5m roof. Continue up the overhanging but juggy right-hand arête to lower offs.</climb> <text class="heading3" id="323">Redneck Buttress</text> <text class="text" id="325">The track passes beneath the next steep red buttress, with a prominent corner crack on the right hand side.</text> <image id="350" src="Redneck.jpg" height="1208" legend="true" legendTitle="Redneck Buttress"> <drawing> <path id="14020" linkedTo="324" d="M50.0,1194.0C82.4,1035.2 111.3,957.9 131.0,797.0C150.7,636.1 141.9,401.1 155.0,338.0C168.1,274.9 241.7,230.0 253.0,210.0C264.3,190.0 257.2,175.8 260.0,153.0" points="50,1194, 131,797, 155,338, 253,210, 260,153,lower"/> <path id="25743" linkedTo="326" d="M392.0,1194.0C428.8,889.2 478.5,530.5 484.0,432.0C489.5,333.5 452.6,245.5 448.0,188.0C443.4,130.5 451.0,101.6 453.0,44.0" points="392,1194, 484,432, 448,188, 453,44,lower"/> </drawing> <legend> <climb>324</climb> <climb>326</climb> </legend> </image> <climb name="Up Against the Wall" id="324" stars="**" extra="10Þ" number="167." length="17m" grade="22" fa="Dave Stephenson, May 2018">Starts in the corner with an overhang in the middle of the red buttress. Steep in the first half then a nice slab to finish. Continuously entertaining.</climb> <climb name="Redneck Mother" id="326" stars="" extra="5Þ" number="168." length="15m" grade="16" fa="Chuck McGibbon, April 2018">The juggy corner crack, finishing with a harder move to reach the anchors on the left wall.</climb> <text class="heading3" id="320">Black Face</text> <text class="text" id="284">Black Face is the long black stained wall well above the track, running to the left of the Left Tower, reached by ascending "The Giant's Stairs" (another amazing construction from the Chucky Gnome).</text> <image id="351" src="BlackFaceLeft.jpg" height="1208" legend="true" legendTitle="Black Face Left"> <drawing> <path id="63116" linkedTo="285" d="M17.0,1176.0C44.6,1002.0 44.3,901.7 86.0,741.0C127.7,580.3 217.8,393.8 231.0,352.0C244.2,310.2 238.2,286.6 243.0,243.0" points="17,1176, 86,741, 231,352, 243,243,lower"/> <path id="45931" linkedTo="286" d="M166.0,1186.0C178.0,996.4 171.2,870.1 196.0,712.0C220.8,553.9 288.2,383.6 301.0,326.0C313.8,268.4 308.8,237.8 314.0,179.0" points="166,1186, 196,712, 301,326, 314,179,lower"/> <path id="94395" linkedTo="340" d="M384.0,1186.0C446.0,826.0 515.3,401.6 539.0,286.0C562.7,170.4 591.2,116.8 626.0,4.0" points="384,1186, 539,286, 626,4,"/> <path id="90429" linkedTo="341" d="M593.0,1187.0C610.6,807.0 633.1,330.5 637.0,237.0C640.9,143.5 640.0,96.6 642.0,3.0" points="593,1187, 637,237, 642,3,lower"/> </drawing> <legend> <climb>285</climb> <climb>286</climb> <climb>340</climb> <climb>341</climb> </legend> </image> <climb name="Paint it Black" id="285" stars="**" extra="8Þ " number="169." length="14m" grade="20" fa="Dave Stephenson, Stu Scott and Neale Smith, February 2018">On the far left side of the Black Face. Crux passing a short bulge at the base, then straight up moving slightly left at the top past a second bulge and easier crux to the lower offs.</climb> <climb name="Penny Black " id="286" stars="**" extra="7Þ " number="170." length="14m" grade="19" fa="Stu Scott, Dave Stephenson and Carol Hurst February 2018">Just right of Paint it Black, on the left end of the Black Face. Gymnastic start and inky pinky finish. Fun climbing.</climb> <climb name="Bucko's Black Hole" id="340" stars="" extra="" number="171." length="20m" grade="12" fa="Chuck McGibbon, April 2018">Follow the crack through various widths to the Stephen Hawking lower offs.</climb> <climb name="Stephen Hawking" id="341" stars="" extra="5Þ" number="172." length="20m" grade="16" fa="Chuck McGibbon, April 2018">He spent most of his adult life thinking about black holes.</climb> <image id="352" src="BlackFaceCentre.jpg" height="1208" legend="true" legendTitle="Black Face Centre"> <drawing> <path id="73919" linkedTo="342" d="M741.0,1099.0C647.4,859.0 545.0,581.7 507.0,499.0C469.0,416.3 401.7,375.5 379.0,311.0C356.3,246.5 380.2,208.4 381.0,140.0" points="741,1099, 507,499, 379,311, 381,140,lower"/> </drawing> <legend> <climb>342</climb> </legend> </image> <climb name="The Chuckeroo" id="342" stars="*" extra="5Þ " number="173." length="20m" grade="17" fa="Chuck McGibbon, April 2018">Up the slab and then climb the right facing corner.</climb> <text class="heading3" id="319">Left Tower North Face</text> <text class="text" id="330">Short routes on the left side of the Tower, accessed by ascending the Giant's Stairs below Black Face.</text> <image id="266" src="LeftTowerNorthFace.jpg" height="1510" legend="true" legendTitle="Left Tower North Face" legendy="8" legendx="827"> <drawing> <path id="23558" linkedTo="269" d="M297.0,1495.0C277.8,1226.2 249.2,1039.8 249.0,823.0C248.8,606.2 276.7,369.2 296.0,283.0C315.3,196.8 365.6,170.2 412.0,95.0" points="297,1495, 249,823, 296,283, 412,95,lower"/> <path id="85708" linkedTo="270" d="M879.0,1491.0C793.8,1167.8 715.4,838.8 666.0,683.0C616.6,527.2 537.8,392.4 504.0,308.0C470.2,223.6 459.6,179.0 430.0,93.0" points="879,1491, 666,683, 504,308, 430,93,lower"/> </drawing> <legend> <climb>269</climb> <climb>270</climb> </legend> </image> <climb name="Tynee Tips" id="269" stars="*" extra="7Þ " number="174." length="12m" grade="21" fa="Stu Scott, Dave Stephenson, Bob Bull. January 2018">A thin technical crux leads past the steepening.</climb> <climb name="Cosmic Coincidence" id="270" stars="*" extra="7Þ " number="175." length="15m" grade="18" fa="Stu Scott, Dave Stephenson, Bob Bull. January 2018.">Bridge up the short corner, then climb over the bulge and face above. Shares top bolt and lower offs with Tynee Tips.</climb> <text class="heading3" id="327">Left Tower West Face</text> <image id="272" src="LeftTowerWestFace.jpg" height="1207" legend="true" legendTitle="Left Tower West Face"> <drawing> <path id="72148" linkedTo="273" d="M16.0,1088.0C25.6,936.8 -4.9,854.7 40.0,710.0C84.9,565.3 237.9,345.0 261.0,298.0C284.1,251.0 286.6,204.4 303.0,174.0C319.4,143.6 338.4,136.2 362.0,111.0" points="16,1088, 40,710, 261,298, 303,174, 362,111,lower"/> <path id="26628" linkedTo="274" d="M546.0,1098.0C550.8,774.8 566.7,377.6 558.0,290.0C549.3,202.4 457.8,142.8 447.0,100.0" points="546,1098, 558,290, 447,100,lower"/> <path id="31316" linkedTo="277" d="M224.0,1102.0C293.6,741.6 388.9,244.2 398.0,201.0C407.1,157.8 445.8,139.8 435.0,97.0" points="224,1102, 398,201, 435,97,lower"/> <path id="12462" d="" points=""/> </drawing> <legend> <climb>273</climb> <climb>277</climb> <climb>274</climb> </legend> </image> <climb name="The Nose of Il Cappuccino" id="273" stars="**" extra="9Þ " number="176." length="20m" grade="15" fa="Dave Stephenson, Stu Scott and Bob Bull, February 2018">Slab then the pocketed wall above, finishing via several bulges on the left hand arête.</climb> <climb name="Just Another Day at the Office" id="277" stars="**" extra="9Þ " number="177." length="20m" grade="14" fa="Tony McKenny and the Plebs, February 2018.">The prominent corner in the centre. A little bit of everything - wall, slab, roof, jams and layback, and all on superb rock. Lovely jubbly!</climb> <climb name="Blue Eyes Crying in the Rain" id="274" stars="**" extra="8Þ " number="178." length="20m" grade="18" fa="Dave Stephenson and Stu Scott, January 2018">Bridge up short corner in middle of West Face, continuing up steepening above to finish up right arête.</climb> <text class="heading3" id="318">Right Tower West Face and Flying Buttress</text> <image id="344" src="RightTowerFlyingButtress.jpg" height="933" legend="true" legendTitle="Right Tower and Flying Buttress" legendy="7" legendx="623"> <drawing> <path id="2532" linkedTo="276" d="M79.0,689.0C118.2,481.8 168.8,233.0 177.0,171.0C185.2,109.0 171.6,77.4 168.0,15.0" points="79,689, 177,171, 168,15,lower"/> <path id="45838" linkedTo="300" d="M472.0,894.0C405.2,645.2 316.8,338.6 305.0,272.0C293.2,205.4 321.2,171.8 332.0,105.0" points="472,894, 305,272, 332,105,lower"/> <path id="52639" linkedTo="288" d="M596.0,906.0C554.0,645.2 501.9,311.2 491.0,254.0C480.1,196.8 469.2,168.9 445.0,116.0" points="596,906, 491,254, 445,116,lower"/> <path id="16079" linkedTo="289" d="M710.0,916.0C702.8,784.4 731.3,712.8 692.0,587.0C652.7,461.2 485.2,170.9 461.0,118.0" points="710,916, 692,587, 461,118,lower"/> <path id="74794" linkedTo="305" d="M783.0,912.0C774.2,825.6 787.0,778.9 761.0,696.0C735.0,613.1 626.3,366.4 586.0,285.0C545.7,203.6 512.2,170.4 463.0,94.0" points="783,912, 761,696, 586,285, 463,94,lower"/> </drawing> <legend> <climb>276</climb> <climb>300</climb> <climb>288</climb> <climb>289</climb> <climb>305</climb> </legend> </image> <climb name="'Twas Just a Dirty Thing" id="276" stars="***" extra="8Þ " number="179." length="25m" grade="14" fa="Bob Bull, Lisa Summerfield, Stu Scott, Dave Stephenson. January 2018.">Clean now. Start at a short corner, then follow the bolts up the middle of the face. Excellent.</climb> <text class="text" id="287">A clutch of excellent easy but fun climbs on really good rock grace the flying buttress to the right and below "Twas just a Dirty Thing".</text> <climb name="Up-and-coming " id="300" stars="" extra="6Þ " number="180." length="11m" grade="14" fa="T. McKenny, S. Eccleston, M. Crawford, , March 2018.">Straightforward climbing but watch out for the sting in the tail! Climbs the left leaning diagonal and up the steep wall to finish on left.</climb> <climb name="Heigh Ho " id="288" stars="" extra="5Þ" number="181." length="12m" grade="14" fa="T. McKenny, March 2018.">A steep, clean line on good rock up the corner that splits the buttress.</climb> <climb name="Blowing in the Wind " id="289" stars="" extra="5Þ" number="182." length="12m" grade="12" fa="T. McKenny, March, 2018.">Takes the steep narrow buttress to the right, moving left at top to finish at Heigh Ho lower off. A testament to the efficiency of Chuck's portable leaf blower!!!</climb> <climb name="Little Rocket Man " id="305" stars="" extra="6Þ " number="183." length="15m" grade="14" fa="N. Smith and T. McKenny, March 2018.">The crack on right of BITW.</climb> </guide>