text:
Malcolm Sage, Detective/Chapter 6
"WELL," cried Tims, one Saturday night, as he pushed open the kitchen door of the little flat he occupied over the garage. "How's the cook, the stove, and the supper?"
"I'm busy," said Mrs. Tims, a little, fair woman, with blue eyes, an impertinent nose, and the inspiration of neatness in her dress, as she altered the position of a saucepan on the stove and put two plates into the oven to warm.
This was the invariable greeting between husband and wife. Tims went up behind her, gripped her elbows to her side, and kissed her noisily.
"I told you I was busy," she said.
"You did, Emmelina," he responded. "I heard you say so, and how's his Nibs?"
The last remark was addressed to an object that was crawling towards him with incoherent cries and gurgles of delight. Stooping down, Tims picked up his eighteen-months-old son and held him aloft, chuckling and mouthing his glee.
"You'll drop him one of these days," said Mrs. Tims, "and then there'll be a pretty hullaballoo."
"Well, he's fat enough to bounce," was the retort. "Ain't you, Jimmy?"
Neither Tims nor Mrs. Tims seemed to be conscious that without variations these same remarks had been made night after night, week after week, month after month.
"How's Mr. Sage?" was the question with which Mrs. Tims always followed the reference to the bouncing of Jimmy.
"Like Johnny Walker, still going strong," glibly came the reply, just as it came every other night. "He was asking about you to-day," added Tims.
"About me?" Mrs. Tims turned, all attention, her cooking for the time forgotten.
"Yes, wanted to know when I was going to divorce you."
"Don't be silly, Jim," she cried. "What did he say, really now?" she added as she turned once more to the stove.
"Oh! he just asked if you were well," replied Tims, more interested in demonstrating with the person of his son how an aeroplane left the ground than in his wife's question.
"Anything else?" enquired Mrs. Tims, prodding a potato with a fork to see if it was done.
Tims was not deceived by the casual tone in which the question was asked. He was wont to say that, if his wife wanted his back teeth, she would get them.
"Nothing, my dear, only to ask if his Nibs was flourishin'," and with a gurgle of delight the aeroplane soared towards the ceiling.
Mrs. Tims had not forgotten the time when Malcolm Sage visited her several times when she was ill with pneumonia. She never tired of telling her friends of his wonderful knowledge of household affairs. He had talked to her of cooking, of childish ailments, of shopping, in a way that had amazed her. His knowledge seemed universal. He had explained to her among other things how cracknel biscuits were made and why croup was so swift in its action.
Tims vowed that the Chief had done her more good than the doctor, and from that day Malcolm Sage had occupied chief place in Mrs. Tims's valhalla.
"Quaint sort o' chap, the Chief," Tims would remark sometimes in connection with some professional episode.
"Pity you're not as quaint," would flash back the retort from Mrs. Tims, whose conception of loyalty was more literal than that of her husband.
Supper finished and his Nibs put to bed, Tims proceeded to enjoy his pipe and evening paper, whilst Mrs. Tims got out her sewing. From time to time Tims's eyes would wander over towards the telephone in the corner.
Finally he folded up the paper, and proceeded to knock out the ashes from his pipe preparatory to going to bed. His eyes took a last look at the telephone just as Mrs. Tims glanced up.
"Don't sit there watching that telephone," she cried, "anyone would think you were wanting——"
"Brrrrrrr—brrrrrrr—brrrrrr," went the bell.
"Now perhaps you're happy," cried Mrs. Tims as he rose to answer the call, whilst she put on the kettle to make hot coffee to fill the thermos flasks without which she never allowed the car to go out at night. It was her tribute to "the Chief."
In his more expansive moments Malcolm Sage would liken himself to a general practitioner in a diseased-infected district. It is true that there was no speaking-tube, with its terrifying whistle, a few feet from his head; but the telephone by his bedside was always liable to arouse him from sleep at any hour of the night.
As Tims had folded up his newspaper with a view to bed, Malcolm Sage was removing his collar before the mirror on his dressing-table, when his telephone bell rang. Rogers, his man, looked interrogatingly at his master, who, shaking his head, passed over to the instrument and took up the receiver.
"Yes, this is Malcolm Sage—Speaking—Yes." Then for a few minutes he listened with an impassive face. "I'll be off within ten minutes—The Towers, Holdingham, near Guildford—I understand."
While he was speaking, Rogers, a little sallow-faced man with fish-like eyes and expressionless face, had moved over to the other telephone and was droning in a monotonous, uninflected voice, "Chief wants car in five minutes."
It was part of Malcolm Sage's method to train his subordinates to realise the importance of intelligent and logical inference.
Returning to the dressing-table, Malcolm Sage took up another collar, slipped a tie between the fold, and proceeded to put it on.
As he did so he gave instructions to Rogers, who, note-book in hand, and with an expression of indifference that seemed to say "Kismet," silently recorded his instructions.
"My address will be The Towers, Holdingham, near Guildford. Be on the look-out for messages."
Without a word Rogers closed the book and, picking up a suit-case, which was always ready for emergencies, he left the room. Two minutes later Malcolm Sage followed and, without a word, entered the closed car that had just drawn up before his flat in the Adelphi.
Rogers returned to the flat, switched the telephone on to his own room, and prepared himself for the night, whilst Malcolm Sage, having eaten a biscuit and drunk some of Mrs. Tims's hot coffee, lay back to sleep as the car rushed along the Portsmouth road.
In the library at The Towers three men were seated, their faces lined and drawn as if some great misfortune had suddenly descended upon them; yet their senses were alert. They were listening.
"He ought to be here any minute now," said Mr. Llewellyn John, the Prime Minister, taking out his watch for the hundredth time. Sir Lyster Grayne, First Lord of the Admiralty, shook his head.
"He should do it in an hour," said Lord Beamdale, the Secretary of War, "if he's got a man who knows the road."
"Sage is sure——" began Sir Lyster; then he stopped abruptly, and turned in the direction of the further window.
A soft tapping as of a finger-nail upon a pane of glass was clearly distinguishable. It ceased for a few seconds, recommenced, then ceased again.
Mr. Llewellyn John looked first at Sir Lyster and then on towards where Lord Beamdale sat, heavy of frame and impassive of feature.
Sir Lyster rose and walked quickly over to the window. As he approached the tapping recommenced. Swinging back the curtain he disappeared into the embrasure.
The others heard the sound of the window being raised and then closed again. A moment later Malcolm Sage appeared, followed by Sir Lyster, who once more drew the curtain.
At the sight of Malcolm Sage, Mr. Llewellyn John's features relaxed from their drawn, tense expression. A look of relief flashed momentarily into Lord Beamdale's fish-like eyes.
"Thank God you've come, Sage!" cried Mr. Llewellyn John, with a sigh of relief as he grasped Malcolm Sage's hand as if it had been a lifebelt and he a drowning man. "I think you have met Lord Beamdale," he added.
Malcolm Sage bowed to the War Minister, then with great deliberation removed his overcoat, carefully folded it, and placed it upon a chair, laying his cap on top. He then selected a chair at the table that gave him a clear view of the faces of the three Ministers, and sat down.
"Why did you come to the window?" enquired Sir Lyster, as he resumed his own seat. "Did you know this was the library?"
"I saw a crack of light between the curtains," replied Malcolm Sage. "It may be desirable that no one should know I have been here," he added.
"Something terrible has happened, Sage," broke in the Prime Minister, his voice shaking with excitement. He had with difficulty contained himself whilst Malcolm Sage was taking off his overcoat and explaining his reason for entering by the window. "It's—it's——" His voice broke.
"Perhaps Sir Lyster will tell me, or Lord Beamdale," suggested Malcolm Sage, looking from one to the other.
Lord Beamdale shook his head.
"Just a bare outline, Sir Lyster," said Malcolm Sage, spreading out his fingers before him.
Slowly, deliberately, and with perfect self-possession, Sir Lyster explained what had happened.
"The Prime Minister and Lord Beamdale came down with me on Thursday night to spend the weekend," he said. "Incidentally we were to discuss a very important matter connected with this country's er—foreign policy." The hesitation was only momentary. "Lord Beamdale brought with him a document of an extremely private nature. This I had sent to him earlier in the week for consideration and comment.
"If that document were to get to a certain Embassy in London no one can foretell the calamitous results. It might even result in another war, if not now certainly later. It was, I should explain, of a private and confidential nature, and consequently quite frankly expressed."
"And you must remember——" began Mr. Llewellyn John excitedly.
"One moment, sir," said Malcolm Sage quietly, without looking up from an absorbed contemplation of a bronze letter-weight fashioned in the form of a sphinx.
Mr. Llewellyn John sank back into his chair, and Sir Lyster resumed.
"Just over an hour and a half ago, that is to say soon after eleven o'clock, it was discovered that the document in question was missing, and in its place had been substituted a number of sheets of blank paper."
"Unless it's found, Sage," cried Mr. Llewellyn John, jumping up from his chair in his excitement, "the consequences are too awful to contemplate."
For a few seconds he strode up and down the room, then returning to his chair, sank back into its comfortable depths.
"Where was the document kept?" enquired Malcolm Sage, his long, sensitive fingers stroking the back of the sphinx.
"In the safe," replied Sir Lyster, indicating with a nod a small safe let into the wall.
"You are in the habit of using it for valuable documents?" queried Malcolm Sage.
"As a matter of fact very seldom. It is mostly empty," was the reply.
"I have a larger safe in my dressing-room, in which I keep my papers. During the day I occasionally use this to save going up and down stairs."
"Where do you keep the key?"
"When there is anything in the safe I always carry it about with me."
"And at other times?"
"Sometimes in a drawer in my writing-table," said Sir Lyster; "but generally I have it on me."
"When was the document put into the safe?"
"At a quarter to eight to-night, just as the second dressing-gong was sounding."
"And you yourself put it in, locked the door, and have retained the key ever since?" Malcolm Sage had exhausted the interest of the sphinx and was now drawing diagrams with his forefinger upon the morocco surface of the table.
Sir Lyster nodded.
"I put the key in the pocket of my evening vest when I changed," he said. "After the other guests had retired, the Prime Minister raised a point that necessitated reference to the document itself. It was then I discovered the substitution."
"But for that circumstance the safe would not have been opened until when?" queried Malcolm Sage.
"Late to-night, when I should have transferred the packet to the safe in my dressing-room."
"Would you have examined the contents?"
"No. It is my rule to cut adrift from official matters from dinner-time on Saturday until after breakfast on Monday. It was only in deference to the Prime Minister's particular wish that we referred to the document to-night."
"I take it that the rule you mention is known to your guests and servants?"
"There is no doubt that it was the document itself that you put in the safe?"
"None; the Prime Minister and Lord Beamdale saw me do it."
"No doubt whatever," corroborated Mr. Llewellyn John, whilst Lord Beamdale wagged his head like a mandarin.
"Does anyone else know that it is missing?" asked Malcolm Sage after a short pause.
Sir Lyster shook his head.
"Only we three; and, of course, the thief," he added.
Malcolm Sage nodded. He had tired of the diagrams, and now sat stroking the back of his head.
"Has anyone left the house since the discovery; that is, as far as you know?" he queried at length.
"No one," said Sir Lyster.
"The servants, of course, have access to this room?"
"Yes; but only Walters, my butler, is likely to come here in the evening, except, of course, my secretary."
"Where does he dine?"
"Miss Blair," corrected Sir Lyster, "always takes her meals in her own sitting-room, where she works. It is situated at the back of the house on the ground floor."
Again Malcolm Sage was silent, this time for a longer period.
"So far as you know, then," he said at length, addressing Sir Lyster, "only three people in the house were acquainted with the existence of the document; you, the Prime Minister, and Lord Beamdale."
Sir Lyster inclined his head.
"You are certain of that?" Malcolm Sage looked up swiftly and keenly. "Your secretary and Lady Grayne, for instance, they knew nothing about it?"
"Nothing; of that I am absolutely certain," replied Sir Lyster coldly.
"And the nature of the document?" enquired Malcolm Sa'ge.
Sir Lyster looked across at Mr. Llewellyn John, who turned interrogatingly to Lord Beamdale.
"I am afraid it is of too private a nature to——" he hesitated.
"If you require me to trace something," said Malcolm Sage evenly, "you must at least tell me what that something is."
"It is a document which——" began Lord Beamdale, then he, too, paused.
"But, surely, Sage," broke in Mr. Llewellyn John, "is it not necessary to know the actual contents?"
"If you had lost something and would not tell me whether it was a dog or a diamond, would you expect me to find it?"
"But——" began Mr. Llewellyn John.
"I'm afraid we are wasting time, gentlemen," said Malcolm Sage, rising. "I would suggest Scotland Yard. The official police must work under any handicap imposed. I regret that I am unable to do so."
He walked across to the chair where lay his cap and coat.
"Now, Sage," said Mr. Llewellyn John tactfully, "you mustn't let us down, you really mustn't." Then turning to Sir Lyster, he said, "I can see his point. If he doesn't know the nature of the document, he cannot form a theory as to who is likely to have taken it. Perhaps under the circumstances, Grayne, we might take Sage into our confidence; at least to such extent as he thinks necessary."
Sir Lyster made no response, whilst Lord Beamdale, whose economy in words had earned for him the sobriquet of "Lord Dumbeam," sat with impassive face.
"Perhaps I can help you," said Malcolm Sage, still standing by the chair on which lay his cap and coat. "At the end of every great war the Plans Departments of the Admiralty and the War Office are busy preparing for the next war. I suggest that this document was the Admiralty draft of a plan of operations to be put into force in the event of war occurring between this country and an extremely friendly power. It was submitted to the War Office for criticism and comment as far as land-operations were concerned. Another power, unfriendly to the friendly power, would find in this document a very valuable red-herring to draw across the path of its own perplexities."
"Good heavens!" cried Mr. Llewellyn John, starting upright in his chair. "How on earth did you know?"
"It seems fairly obvious," said Malcolm Sage, as he returned to his chair and resumed his stroking of the sphinx's back. "Who else knew of the existence of the document?" he enquired.
"No one outside the Admiralty and the War——" Sir Lyster stopped suddenly.
From the corridor, apparently just outside the library door, came the sound of a suppressed scream, followed by a bump against the woodwork.
Rising and moving swiftly across the room, Sir Lyster threw open the door, revealing a gap of darkness into which a moment later slid two figures, a pretty, fair-haired girl and a wizened little Japanese with large round spectacles and an automatic smile.
"I'm so sorry, Sir Lyster," faltered the girl, as she stepped timidly into the room, "but I was frightened. Someone had switched off the lights and I ran into——" She turned to the Japanese, who stood deprecating and nervous on the threshold.
"I lose my passage," he said, baring his teeth still further; "I go to find cigarette-case of my master. He leave it in beelyard-room. I go——"
With a motion of his hand, Sir Lyster dismissed the man, who slipped away as if relieved at getting off so lightly.
"You are up late, Miss Blair," he said coolly, turning to the girl.
"I'm so sorry," she said; "but Lady Grayne gave me some letters, and there was so much copying for you that——" She paused, then added nervously, "I didn't know it was so late."
"You had better go to bed, now," said Sir Lyster.
With a charming smile she passed out, Sir Lyster closing the door behind her. As he turned into the room his eye caught sight of the chair in which Malcolm Sage had been sitting.
"Where is Mr. Sage?" He looked from Mr. Llewellyn John to Lord Beamdale.
As he spoke Malcolm Sage appeared from the embrasure of the window through which he had entered, and where he had taken cover as Sir Lyster rose to open the door.
"You see, Sage is not supposed to be here," explained Mr. Llewellyn John.
"Your secretary has an expensive taste in perfume," remarked Malcolm Sage casually, as he resumed his seat. "It often characterises an intensely emotional nature," he added musingly.
"Emotional nature!" repeated Sir Lyster. "As a matter of fact she is extremely practical and self-possessed. You were saying——" he concluded with the air of a man who dismisses a trifling subject in favour of one of some importance.
"Diplomatists should be trained physiognomists," murmured Malcolm Sage. "A man's mouth rarely lies, a woman's never."
Sir Lyster stared.
"Now," continued Malcolm Sage, "I should like to know who is staying here."
Sir Lyster proceeded to give some details of the guests and servants. The domestic staff comprised twenty-one, and none had been in Sir Lyster's employ for less than three years. They were all excellent servants, of irreproachable character, who had come to him with good references. Seventeen of the twenty-one lived in the house. There were also four lady's-maids and five men-servants attached to the guests. Among the men-servants was Sir Jeffrey Trawler's Japanese valet.
There was something in Sir Lyster's voice as he mentioned this fact that caused Malcolm Sage to look up at him sharply.
"The man you have just seen," Sir Lyster explained. "He has been the cause of some little difficulty in the servants'-hall. They object to sitting down to meals with a Chinaman, as they call him.
"He seems intelligent?" remarked Malcolm Sage casually.
"On the contrary, he is an extremely stupid creature," was the reply. "He is continually losing himself. Only yesterday morning I myself found him wandering about the corridor leading to my own bedroom. Walters has also mentioned the matter to me."
Sir Lyster then passed on to the guests. They comprised Mrs. Selton, an aunt of Sir Lyster; Sir Jeffrey and Lady Trawlor, old friends of their hostess; Lady Whyndale and her two daughters. There were also Mr. Gerald Nash, M. P., and Mr. and Mrs. Richard Winnington, old friends of Sir Lyster and Lady Grayne.
"Later, I may require a list of the guests," said Malcolm Sage, when Sir Lyster had completed his account. "You said, I think, that the key of the safe was sometimes left in an accessible place?"
"Yes, in a drawer."
"So that anyone having access to the room could easily have taken a wax impression."
"Sir Lyster flushed slightly.
"There is no one——" he began.
"There is always a potential someone," corrected Malcolm Sage, raising his eyes suddenly and fixing them full upon Sir Lyster.
"The question is, Sage," broke in Mr. Llewellyn John tactfully, "what are we to do?"
"I should first like to see the inside of the safe and the dummy packet," said Malcolm Sage, rising. "No, I will open it myself if you will give me the key," he added, as Sir Lyster rose and moved over to the safe.
Taking the key, Malcolm Sage kneeled before the safe door and, by the light of an electric torch, surveyed the whole of the surface with keen-sighted eyes. Then placing the key in the lock he turned it, and swung back the door, revealing a long official envelope as the sole contents. This he examined carefully without touching it, his head thrust inside the safe.
"Is this the same envelope as that in which the document was enclosed?" he enquired, without looking round.
The three men had risen and were grouped behind Malcolm Sage, watching him with keen interest.
"It's the same kind of envelope, but——" began
Sir Lyster, when Lord Beamdale interrupted.
"It's the envelope itself," he said. "I noticed that the right-hand top corner was bent in rather a peculiar manner."
Malcolm Sage rose and, taking out the envelope, carefully examined the damaged corner, which was bent and slightly torn.
"Yes, it's the same," cried Mr. Llewellyn John. "I remember tearing it myself when putting in the document."
"How many leaves of paper were there?" enquired Malcolm Sage.
"Eight, I think," replied Sir Lyster.
"Nine," corrected Lord Beamdale. "There was a leaf in front blank but for the words, 'Plans Department.'"
"Have you another document from the same Department?" enquired Malcolm Sage of Sir Lyster.
"I should like to see one."
Sir Lyster left the room, and Malcolm Sage removed the contents of the envelope. Carefully counting nine leaves of blank white foolscap, he bent down over the paper, with his face almost touching it.
When Sir Lyster re-entered with another document in his hand Malcolm Sage took it from him and proceeded to subject it to an equally close scrutiny, holding up to the light each sheet in succession.
"I suppose, Sir Lyster, you don't by any chance use scent?" enquired Malcolm Sage without looking up.
"Mr. Sage!" Sir Lyster was on his dignity.
"I see you don't," was Malcolm Sage's calm comment as he resumed his examination of the dummy document. Replacing it in the envelope, he returned it to the safe, closed the door, locked it, and put the key in his pocket.
"Well! what do you make of it?" cried Mr. Llewellyn John eagerly.
"We shall have to take the Postmaster-general into our confidence."
"Woldington!" cried Mr. Llewellyn John in astonishment. "Why."
Sir Lyster looked surprised, whilst Lord Beamdale appeared almost interested.
"Because we shall probably require his help."
"How?" enquired Sir Lyster.
"Well, it's rather dangerous to tamper with His Majesty's mails without the connivance of St. Martins-le-Grand," was the dry retort.
"But——" began Mr. Llewellyn John, when suddenly he stopped short.
Malcolm Sage had walked over to where his overcoat lay, and was deliberately getting into it.
"You're not going, Mr. Sage?" Sir Lyster's granite-like control seemed momentarily to forsake him. "What do you advise us to do?"
"Get some sleep," was the quiet reply.
"But aren't you going to search for——?" He paused as Malcolm Sage turned and looked full at him.
"A search would involve the very publicity you are anxious to avoid," was the reply.
"But——" began Mr. Llewellyn John, when Malcolm Sage interrupted him.
"The only effective search would be to surround the house with police, and allow each occupant to pass through the cordon after having been stripped. The house would then have to be gone through; carpets and boards pulled up; mattresses ripped open; chairs——"
"I agree with Mr. Sage," said Sir Lyster, looking across at the Prime Minister coldly.
"Had I been a magazine detective I should have known exactly where to find the missing document," said Malcolm Sage. "As I am not"—he turned to Sir Lyster—"it will be necessary for you to leave a note for your butler telling him that you have dropped somewhere about the house the key of this safe, and instructing him to have a thorough search made for it. You might casually mention the loss at breakfast, and refer to an important document inside the safe which you must have on Monday morning. Perhaps the Prime Minister will suggest telephoning to town for a man to come down to force the safe should the key not be found."
Malcolm Sage paused. The others were gazing at him with keen interest.
"Leave the note unfolded in a conspicuous place where anyone can see it," he continued.
"I'll put it on the hall-table," said Sir Lyster.
Malcolm Sage nodded.
"It is desirable that you should all appear to be in the best of spirits." There was a fluttering at the corners of Malcolm Sage's mouth, as he lifted his eyes for a second to the almost lugubrious countenance of Lord Beamdale. "Under no circumstances refer to the robbery, even amongst yourselves. Try to forget it."
"But how will that help?" enquired Mr. Llewellyn John, whose nature rendered him singularly ill-adapted to a walking-on part.
"I will ask you, sir," said Malcolm Sage, turning to him, "to give me a letter to Mr. Woldington, asking him to do as I request. I will give him the details."
"But why is it necessary to tell him?" demanded Sir Lyster.
"That I will explain to you to-morrow. That will be Monday," explained Malcolm Sage, "earlier if possible. A few lines will do," he added, turning to Mr. Llewellyn John.
"I suppose we must," said the Prime Minister, looking from Sir Lyster to Lord Beamdale.
"I hope to call before lunch," said Malcolm Sage, "but as Mr. Le Sage from the Foreign Office. You will refuse to discuss official matters until Monday. I shall probably ask you to introduce me to everyone you can. It may happen that I shall disappear suddenly."
"But cannot you be a little less mysterious?" said Sir Lyster, with a touch of asperity in his voice.
"There is nothing mysterious," replied Malcolm Sage. "It seems quite obvious. Everything depends upon how clever the thief is." He looked up suddenly, his gaze passing from one to another of the bewildered Ministers.
"It's by no means obvious to me," cried Mr. Llewellyn John, complainingly.
"By the way, Sir Lyster, how many cars have you in the garage?" enquired Malcolm Sage. "In case we want them," he added.
"I have two, and there are"—he paused for a moment—"five others," he added; "seven in all."
"Any carriages, or dog-carts?"
"No. We have no horses."
"A few of the servants have them," replied Sir Lyster, a little impatiently.
"The bicycles are also kept in the garage, I take it?"
"They are." This time there was no mistaking the note of irritation in Sir Lyster's voice.
"There may be several messengers from Whitehall to-morrow," said Malcolm Sage, after a pause. "Please keep them waiting until they show signs of impatience. It is important. Whatever happens here, it would be better not to acquaint the police—whatever happens," he added with emphasis. "And now, sir"—he turned to Mr. Llewellyn John—"I should like that note to the Postmaster-general."
Mr. Llewellyn John sat down reluctantly at a table and wrote a note.
"But suppose the thief hands the document to an accomplice?" said Sir Lyster presently, with something like emotion in his voice.
"That's exactly what I am supposing," was Malcolm Sage's reply and, taking the note that Mr. Llewellyn John held out to him, he placed it in his breast pocket, buttoned up his overcoat, and walked across to the window through which he had entered. With one hand upon the curtain he turned.
"If I call you may notice that I have acquired a slight foreign accent," he said, and with that he slipped behind the curtain. A moment later the sound was heard of the window being quietly opened and then shut again.
"Well, I'm damned!" cried Lord Beamdale, and for the moment Mr. Llewelyln John and Sir Lyster forgot their surprise at Malcolm Sage's actions in their astonishment at their colleague's remark.


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text:
What Determines Firm-level Export Capacity? Evidence from Portuguese firms
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KeywordsKeywords: Internationalization; Competitiveness; Barriers; Exports;
JEL classification:
- D22 - Microeconomics - - Production and Organizations - - - Firm Behavior: Empirical Analysis
NEP fieldsThis paper has been announced in the following NEP Reports:
- NEP-CSE-2016-04-23 (Economics of Strategic Management)
- NEP-INT-2016-04-23 (International Trade)
- NEP-SBM-2016-04-23 (Small Business Management)
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- 2 hours (Approx.)
- Mobile ticket
Guatemala Espectacular is wonderful place where you can enjoy authentic cuisine and culture of Guatemala. Located in one of the most important attractions of the city: Ciudad Cayalá.
Here you can transport yourself to a precolumbian era and know more about Guatemala through our dances.
Delight yourself with traditional plates such as Pepian, Subanik, Kakik, Hilachas, Tostadas, Elote loco, rellenitos or mole, among others.
Guatemala Espectacular is a must do in your visit!
- Dinner - Authentic Guatemalan Food. Appetizer, Entree, Dessert. One Tamarindo Cocktail.
- Folclore Show. 45 minutes.
- Entry/Admission - Guatemala Espectacular
Departure Point
Guatemala Espectacular
Departure Time
See Availability
Visit: Guatemala Espectacular, Guatemala City, Guatemala Department
The only place in Guatemala where you can experience the authentic Guatemalan culture through its exquisite cuisine and a folk dance show. Enjoy the flavors and aromas of Guatemala!
Dinner include: Cocktail, Appetizer, Entree, Desserts.
Dinner start at 20:00
5 dances that tell stories about Guatemala. Maya era, a wedding in San Juan Sacatepequez, Ladin Dance, Todos los Santos Day and the Deer Dance.
Show starts at 21:00
Not Available
- Confirmation will be received at time of booking
- Wheelchair accessible
- Stroller accessible
- Infant seats available
- Transportation is wheelchair accessible
- Most travelers can participate
- This experience requires good weather. If it's canceled due to poor weather, you'll be offered a different date or a full refund
- This experience requires a minimum number of travelers. If it's canceled because the minimum isn't met, you'll be offered a different date/experience or a full refund
For a full refund, cancel at least 24 hours in advance of the start date of the experience.


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Sperm is the male reproductive cell and is derived from the Greek word (σπέρμα) sperma The human sperm cell is haploid, so that its 23 chromosomes can join the 23 chromosomes of the female egg to form a diploid cell. . in preformationism, which thought that each sperm contained a fully formed but small human.Spermatogenesis · Female sperm · Spermatozoon · Sperm competition.
Formation of human sperm
In humans, the male and female reproductive systems work together to make a baby. The male gamete, or sperm, and the female gamete, the egg or ovum, meet in . themselves into the epididymis, where they complete their development. Jump to Human Spermatozoa Development - Spermatogenesis process of spermatagonia mature into spermatazoa (sperm). Continuously throughout life Introduction · Some Recent Findings · Mature Human · Human Spermatozoa.
Apologise, but formation of human sperm state
Jul 7, - If scaled to human size, this is a distance of almost 3 1/2 miles. When the pairs split during the formation of sperm, the X goes into one sperm. Sperm Production. In humans, spermatogenesis takes place in the seminiferous tubules, which are an intricate system of tubules in the testes where spermatogenesis takes place. The seminiferous tubules of an adult human male can sometimes produce over million sperm per day.
Jun 13, - As the male reproductive cell, sperm is a key aspect of human fertility. the sperm travel through the epididymis, completing their development. Jump to Sperm tail defects in relation to human male infertility - Human male infertility has been associated with several mutations in sperm tail.
Dr. Paul Turek discusses the male sperm production process and the role of is responsible for normal male secondary sex characteristic development, libido or Overall there are 13 recognizable germ cell types in the human testis: dark. Mar 19, - Mysterious ancient human found on the 'roof of the world' Unlocking such mysteries of sperm development could someday lead to infertility.
The egg and the sperm are optimized in opposite ways for the propagation of the for growth and development, together with an effective protective wrapping. of the billions of sperm released during the reproductive life of a human male. An informative video showing you how are sperms formed inside a human body!!!! a must watch video for.
Remarkable, formation of human sperm
Nov 13, - Most of semen is not sperm, and egg count starts decreasing soon after Ovarian development and failure (menopause) in normal women. Feb 14, - The sperm development cycle takes about 74 days. While most men produce millions of new sperm every day, it takes 2 ½-3 months for them to.
Feb 16, - Overview of Meiosis III. Meiosis reduces chromosome number from diploid (2n) to haploid (n) IV. Formation of human gametes eggs and sperm. From start to finish, it takes approximately 70 days to make sperm, and sperm in various stages of development can be found throughout the testis.


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You have a new product idea that clients want to sell which can a manufacturing company or even a license for royalties. During licensing or selling on to work, you need to help contact companies rather along with wait and hope men and women contact you.
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For example, let's for example your invention is any kind of a new power tool. Its manufacturers of power specialist tools are easily known. Go to Home Depot or maybe a Lowes and you'll identify Skil, Black and Decker, Dewalt, and the some others. These are the vendors you need to telephone. Otherwise what's the chance these companies will call you first? Maybe solitary in a billion.
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GSK is not the sole pharma company to make such a move, earlier global pharma majors Merck and Roche too had made similar announcements.
What do moves such as these mean for global pharma majors and what will it mean for India? For the global pharma majors, these markets (low income countries) typically do not contribute much financially so it is unlikely to mean anything significant to their bottomline but it would be according to critics "a good move that showcases their human face."
As for India, it does not mean much to the patients here as the country has outgrown this status so the MNCs will continue to file patents in India. It is therefore perhaps with good reason that Knowledge Ecology International (KEI), the global not-for-profit non-governmental organization, seeks more to expand access to patented medicines.
Hailing the step taken by GSK CEO Andrew Witty, who incidentally has spent many years in the developing countries, KEI in its statement says: "Sir Andrew Witty has shown exceptional leadership, and we look forward to the implementation of this ambitious set of initiatives. In our view, even these welcome measures are not enough, and we continue to press for global de-linkage of R&D costs from drug prices, and open licenses on all products."
"The GSK decisions on filing and licensing patents on other products in lower income countries, and the commitments on pricing and transparency, are all welcome initiatives. Other companies, such as Roche, Novartis, Bayer, Astellas, and BMS, with important oncology drugs should begin to engage on expanding access to their patented medicines, beyond just HIV and HCV drugs," it adds.
If it's not India then which are these countries. Going by the UN list of least developed countries (See the full list here http://www.un.org/en/development/desa/policy/cdp/ldc/ldc_list.pdf ) these include countries like Afghanistan, Angola, Ethiopia, Gambia, Sudan and Zambia.
However, the list also covers countries around India - Afghanistan, Bangladesh, Bhutan and Nepal plus includes Myanmar.
Could this mean anything for Indian pharma companies? According to pharma companies it does not mean much, especially to India's leading companies that are becoming global generic majors and focus largely on the western markets, led by the US.
But there could be some implications for small and mid-sized Indian pharma companies. Depending on the capabilities, it could open an opportunity for the small and mid-size companies those below Rs 1000 crore to either consider export of these drugs to these countries, if the provisions allow perhaps with a license from the MNCs concerned or set up units in these countries.
GSK announcement on March 31 said, "For Least Developed Countries (LDCs) and Low Income Countries (LICs), GSK will not file patents for its medicines, so as to give clarity and confidence to generic companies seeking to manufacture and supply generic versions of GSK medicines in those countries. For Lower Middle Income Countries (LMICs) generally, GSK will file for patents but will seek to offer and agree licences to allow supplies of generic versions of its medicines for 10 years. GSK intends to seek a small royalty on sales in those countries. This offer will apply even for those countries that move out of LMIC status due to increased economic growth during this period."
It also adds: "For High Income Countries, Upper Middle Income Countries and G20 countries, GSK will continue to seek full patent protection. Any GSK medicines on the WHO's list of essential medicines will be included in these changes."
While access to costly MNC medicines will remain an issue in India and elsewhere, the Knowledge Ecology International sums it up well: "People live and die in both the short and the long term, and the GSK announcement means more cancer patients will live longer and better lives in the near term, and that is a good news."


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Good vermouth is a delicious, refreshing and delightful beverage that's misunderstood, abused and maligned. The drink is also associated with Italy, or maybe France. But I think that in the last few years, Barcelona, Spain, is the best city to drink vermouth. (And, of course, we'll be drinking Barcelona's very best vermouth during our Cava Barcelona Gastronomad Experience.)
I'll tell you why in a minute. But first, let's talk about vermouth itself.
Vermouth is a fortified white wine flavored with botanicals. The "fortification" involves the addition of alcohol (brandy or neutral spirits) to bring the level to at least 14.5% in Europe or 15% in the US. (By definition, vermouth is at least 75% wine.)
The name "vermouth" comes from the French pronunciation of the German word for wormwood (wermut) -- and wormwood is one of the few universal ingredients in good vermouth.
Fortified, botanical wines have existed in China for millennia and Europe for centuries, mostly as a medicine. But Vermouth as we know it today was invented in mid-18th century Turin, Italy. That Italian invention was a red vermouth. Later, white and dry vermouth was developed in France.
Vermouth can be sweet or dry -- or, more recently, extra-dry white, sweet white, red, amber, and rosé.
Vermouth is used as an ingredient in cocktails, of course. That's the American way. Before World War II, more than half the cocktails commonly quaffed in America contained vermouth as an ingredient. And Americans even drink it neat. But the war stopped imports of vermouth from Italy and France, and Americans lost touch with it.
It's still a necessary ingredient in the quintessentially American cocktail: the martini. Interestingly, the original martini used sweet vermouth, but over time a dry martini with dry vermouth became the preferred martini. Use of the term "dry martini" gradually changed from meaning "dry vermouth instead of sweet" to meaning "a lesser amount of dry vermouth instead of the normal amount of dry vermouth.")
Cocktail books list more than 200 cocktails containing vermouth, mostly dry vermouth. As a result, most Americans think of vermouth as a cocktail mixer exclusively.
Many people think they don't like vermouth, but only because they've never tried the good stuff. They've been exposed only to the mass-market industrial brands, or they've tried old vermouth in the back of someone's liquor cabinet or sitting with the spirits at a bar (which destroys it) -- or both.
Once you open a bottle of vermouth, the clock is ticking, and should be refrigerated, and also consumed within a month or two. (Vermouth is commonly ruined because people believe it to be -- and handle it as -- a spirit. In fact, it's white wine and should be treated as such -- drunk cold and young and soon after opening.)
Vermouth is normally made with Clairette blanche, Piquepoul, Bianchetta Trevigiana, Catarratto or Trebbiano grape varieties. Non-white vermouths are also usually made with white wine, but colored by caramelized sugar.
The taste of vermouth is dominated by the proprietary blend of botanicals and other ingredients used by the maker, which may include wormwood, cloves, cinnamon, quinine, citrus peel, cardamom, nutmeg, marjoram, chamomile, coriander, mugwort, sagebrush, juniper, lavender, holly thistle, hyssop, gentian, ginger, black elder, anise, iris root, apple brandy, honey, cinchona bark, sweet flag, licorice root, cascarilla, angelica root, lemon peel, lime peel, bitter orange, bergamot orange peel, pomelo peel, oregano, dittany of Crete, gallic rose, st. john's wort, honeysuckle flower, kieffer lime leaves, sage, star anise, cinnamon bark, cardamom, tonka bean, vanilla, allspice and many other ingredients.
While vermouth "manufacturing" happens predominantly in Italy and France, the vermouth "revival" is happening strongest in Barcelona. Spanish vermouth tends to be less bitter and taste sweeter, even though it also tends to have less sugar.
Personally, I think Barcelona is the greatest city in the world for enjoying vermouth. Every neighborhood seems to have a vermouth bar -- some of which are old and fancy; others are literally two stools on the sidewalk. Many serve their own house-made vermouth from a tap, and it's often cheap, as little as 2 Euros per glass, which comes with snacks, such as potato chips, olives, anchovies, shellfish or pan con tomate.
The Spanish way to drink vermouth is neat or on the rocks with an olive, a slice of orange or lemon and, perhaps, a splash of soda, before lunch, before dinner or after church on Sunday (many Spaniards have stopped going to church but continued the Sunday vermouth tradition). Vermouth is usually consumed as a very social "first drink of the day." The pre-dinner vermouth session can last two hours and signals the end of the day and the beginning of the evening.
And it's this ritual, combined with the enthusiastic house-made vermouth renaissance in Barcelona, that makes the city so great for vermouth. To drink vermouth at the right time in the right place is to join the locals in an extremely enjoyable ritual.
I'm really looking forward to sharing my favorite vermouths and vermouth bars during our Cava Barcelona Gastronomad Experience!


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02377nas a2200205 4500008004100000020001400041024003000055245006900085210006900154260001200223300001400235490000700249520172200256100002801978700002102006700002102027700002202048700002802070856007302098 2014 eng d a0047-2425 a1179; WOS:00034509600002400aEffects of Sewage Effluents on Water Quality in Tropical Streams0 aEffects of Sewage Effluents on Water Quality in Tropical Streams cNov-Dec a2053-20630 v433 a
Increased urbanization in many tropical regions has led to an increase in centralized treatment of sewage effluents. Research regarding the effects of these wastewater treatment plants (WWIPs) on the ecology of tropical streams is sparse, so we examined the effects of WVVTPs on stream water quality on the Caribbean island of Puerto Rico. Nutrient concentrations, discharge, dissolved oxygen (DO), biochemical oxygen demand (CBOD), and specific UV absorbance (SUVA) at 254 nm were measured upstream from the WWTP effluent, at the WWTP effluent, and below the WWTP effluent. All parameters measured (except DO) were significantly affected by discharge of WWTP effluent to the stream. The values of SUVA at 254 nm were typically lower (<2.5 m(-1) mg L-1 in VVWTP effluents than those measured upstream of the WWTP, suggesting that WWTP effluents are contributing labile carbon fractions to receiving streams, thus changing the chemical composition of dissolved organic carbon in downstream reaches. Effluents from VVWTP contributed on average 24% to the stream flow at our tropical streams. More than 40% of the nutrient loads in receiving streams came from WWTP effluents with the effects on NO3--N and PO4--P loads being the greatest. The effect of WWTPs on nutrient loads was significantly larger than the effect of flow due to the elevated nutrient concentrations in treated effluents. Our results demonstrate that inputs from WWTPs to streams contribute substantially to changes in water quality, potentially affecting downstream ecosystems. Our findings highlight the need to establish nutrient criteria for tropical streams to minimize degradation of downstream water quality of the receiving streams.1 aFigueroa-Nieves, Debora1 aMcDowell, W., H.1 aPotter, Jody, D.1 aMartinez, Gustavo1 aOrtíz-Zayas, Jorge, R. uhttps://dl.sciencesocieties.org/publications/jeq/abstracts/43/6/2053


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Error messageThe start time of the group ride is in the past.
WRUMPS--Duvall-Fall City-Carnation-Lk Joy <47>
If you are new, please read our newcomer information.
Ride from Duvall to Fall City and return through Carnation, Lake Joy, and High Rock Road, mostly on low-traffic country roads. Bring ID; spare tube, tools, patch kit, pump, and skills to fix flats; and have a phone and plan for rescue in case your bike fails. A Ride With GPS map file and cue sheet are at the Link, below. If you want a cue sheet, please print and bring it. Please note that there is a mile-plus of gravel riding on the Snoqualmie Valley Trail, from north of Carnation to Stillwater. The packed-gravel surface is road bike friendly, but if conditions have been wet there may be some unavoidable mud-splash.
Restroom and water are at the start, at the Carnation Library/Mile 10.8, and at Carnation Starbucks/Mile 29. There is no formal lunch stop, but we'll pause at Starbucks in Carnation on the way back for refreshment.
Directions to the start: From the intersection of Woodinville-Duvall Road and Main Street/State Route 203 in Duvall, go south four blocks, turn right at the traffic light by the Duvall Library, and go down Stephens Street into the Depot Park lot near the police station. Water and restrooms are down the path west of the parking lot, near the Snoqualmie Valley Trail intersection.
Please RSVP by clicking on the red "Register Now" button under the ride title above. Please note that I will print the ride waiver at 7:00 AM on ride day. If you decide after that time to come along, just be at the start and sign the paper waiver.
The listed phone number will not be answered on the day of the ride. If "Showers cancel" conditions exist on ride day, I will not go to the start. In that case I'll post a ride-cancelled message in the Comments block below, not later than two hours prior to start time. If the weather looks iffy, check here before leaving for the ride.
Ride Leader(s)
Registrations so far...
2 rider(s)


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As for the comparisons to Ronaldo, Shaka Hislop, reporting for The Undefeated, believes it's much bigger than that.
But 43,000 spectators witnessed a stunned Messi walking off the pitch Thursday, looking dejected and defeated, after Croatia blanked the Argentines 3-0.
ESPN's Sam Borden reports from Nizhny Novgorod Stadium where Lionel Messi takes centre stage against Croatia.
Real Madrid ace Cristiano Ronaldo regained control as the 2018 World Cup scoring leader Wednesday against Morocco.
Nonetheless, the pundit says that Ronaldo, openly motivated by personal records, will be particularly upset at missing out on a chance to go level with Harry Kane, who has scored five goals at Russian Federation 2018 in just two games.
Barcelona star Lionel Messi has made it clear he does not want to retire from worldwide duty until he lifts the World Cup trophy with his national side, Argentina.
Roberto Martinez names unchanged Belgium team for Tunisia clash
Lukaku was forced off in the 59th minute due to an ankle ligament injury but Hazard praised the improvement shown by his teammate. The Manchester United striker had scored two goals in Belgium's opener against Panama where they had won 3-0 on Monday.
The Atletico coach appears to be talking to his assistant Burgos, a former goalkeeper, when he criticises Argentina keeper Willy Caballero for gifting the opening goal in the game to Croatia winger Ante Rebic.
But Fabregas stuck up for Messi: "It was a similar story for Messi against Croatia, but it was not all his fault". Meanwhile, all eyes will be on Messi and Argentina as they battle for survival. "He does not have the quality in behind him, when he needs someone who can help him build up the play".
"No matter who plays tomorrow will have the obligation to give until the last bead of sweat so that Argentina will go through".
"These days, Cristiano Ronaldo has a very different role for Portugal", he told BBC Sport.
He made his World Cup debut in St. Petersburg and scored from the penalty spot, but only after the hosts led by three goals, and his mobility was clearly affected. You can not say that he and Portugal have shown great combinations or tiki-taka football to score great goals.
The superstar forward is yet to provide a goal or an assist at the showpiece event, and Jorge Sampaoli's men need a win over Nigeria Tuesday to have any chance of reaching the last 16.


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By GERARDO RECINOS Martinez Tribune Alhambra's wrestlers had a busy weekend, starting with the novice tournament on Dec. 2, and continuing with the Faultline Dual Meet in Larkspur the following day. At the Novice Tournament, hosted by Campolindo, the 10 Diablo Athletic League school's sent their youngsters to do battle …Read More »
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Alhambra wrestlers get back to winning ways
By GERARDO RECINOS Martinez Tribune The Bulldogs made up for their late collapse in their first league dual meet on Thursday, Dec. 17, by sealing a victory against Campolindo in the final match of the night. The varsity wrestlers lost to Acalanes by one point in the team scores despite …Read More »
Bulldog grapplers fall short in DFAL opener
By GERARDO RECINOS Martinez Tribune The Bulldog wrestling team opened their Diablo Foothill Athletic League campaign with a shock loss to Acalanes on Thursday, Dec. 10. Coach Pep Roa said before the match that he and his athletes were still scouring the school to fill out their roster. The unfortunate …Read More »


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You Are Simply Wonderful Fun Fold Card ~ Bloom & Grow Stamp Set
June 19, 2019
You Are Simply Wonderful Fun Fold Card
Bloom & Grow Stamp Set
by Phyllis Shepherd, Independent Stampin' UP!® demonstrator
Whisper White Cardstock - #100730
Rococo Rose Cardstock - #150882
Crumb Cake Cardstock - #120953
In Color 6" x 6" Designer Series Paper - 2019-2021 - #149617
accessories/adhesives/stamp pad/scissors
Multipurpose Liquid Glue - #110755
Snail Adhesive - #104332
Stampin' Dimensionals - #104430
Memento Ink Pad - #133708
Simply Scored Scoring Tool - #122334
Bone Folder - #102300
Wild Rose Dies - #149547 (pair these with a machine that cuts)
Budding Blooms Dies - #149548 (pair these with a machine that cuts)
Stampin' Blends – various colors
Paper Snips - #103579
stamp set
Bloom & Grow - #149229
- Card base: Rococo Rose Cardstock – 5 ½" x 8 ½", scored at 2 ½" and 6 ½" on the LONG side, Fold the card on the score lines – the 2 ½" piece is the top.
- In Color 6" x 6" Designer Series Paper - (top) 2 ¼" x 5 ¼"; (bottom) 1 ¾" x 5 ¼"
- Adhere the In Color 6" x 6" Designer Series Paper to the top and bottom. Use Multipurpose Liquid Glue to make a small bead along the edges on the bottom flap to adhere it together to make a pocket.
- Whisper White Cardstock for inside the card: 4 ½" x 3 ¼"; stamp the saying in Memento Ink along the top. Place in the pocket. This would also be a great place to place a gift card.
- Crumb Cake Cardstock – cut the piece using the Wild Rose Dies and a machine that cuts
- Whisper White Cardstock – stamp the smallest flower bundle from the Bloom & Grow Stamp Set using Memento Ink. Color it in using various Stampin' Blends. Cut the flowers using the Budding Blooms Dies and a machine that cuts.
- Adhere to the Crumb Cake Cardstock cutout with Stampin' Dimensionals. Stamp 'hello' on the bottom right corner in Memento Ink.
- Use Multipurpose Liquid Glue on the upper half of the Crumb Cake piece and adhere it to the flap.
Thank you for stopping by. Please subscribe to this blog so you do not miss anything; I value you in my audience. The NEW 2019-2020 Stampin' UP Annual Catalog is available! If you want anything, you can shop right from this blog on the Shop Now. If you do not have a demonstrator and you live in the United States and would like a catalog, please let me know. The first one is complimentary. After an order is placed, you will be on my catalog list. Happy creating!
If you would like a file of the above project, click the link below:
Download 398.You Are Simply Wonderful Fun Fold Card ~ Bloom & Grow Stamp Set


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83923 Research: Fashion Concept Lab
Warning: The information on this page is indicative. The subject outline for a
particular session, location and mode of offering is the authoritative source
of all information about the subject for that offering. Required texts, recommended texts and references in particular are likely to change. Students will be provided with a subject outline once they enrol in the subject.
Subject handbook information prior to 2020 is available in the Archives.
Credit points: 12 cp
Result type: Grade and marks
There are course requisites for this subject. See access conditions.
This subject requires students to research a project that supports their personal design philosophy, or interest, within a fashion and textile design field. The in-depth design project provides a structured experience for students by offering a self-directed design project that combines theoretical and conceptual research methodologies and an expanded approach to fashion practice.
The subject is supported by a series of interactive lectures, tutorials, demonstrations and workshops that address current fashion and textile design issues. The interactive lecture series introduces students to methods of practice, visualisation and making, expanded fashion practices, both globally as well as nationally, and includes visits from industry sponsors. The workshops offer a series of tasks and demonstrations which allow the students to apply an explorative and experimental approach to their work.
Design studios offer an opportunity for students to gain formative feedback from the studio lecturers across both technical, design and textiles. The subject culminates in students utilising the skills they have developed throughout the session to create a final body of experimental design work that documents the research and design process. This final presentation is accompanied by critique from an academic panel.
Subject learning objectives (SLOs)
On successful completion of this subject, students should be able to:
|Demonstrate an understanding of how theory and design practices are interwoven.
|Research, analyse and assimilate data into innovative and effective outcomes.
|Demonstrate an understanding of designing for an international fashion market.
|Effectively communicate a systematic approach to convert design ideas into a finished product.
|Effectively demonstrate a high level of competency in managing time, communicating visual and verbal concepts.
Course intended learning outcomes (CILOs)
This subject also contributes to the following Course Intended Learning Outcomes:
- Advanced communication skills for industry professional context (C.1)
- Advanced aesthetic sensibility (I.1)
- Advanced engagement with professional and global fashion industry practices (P.2)
- Appreciation of global business and marketing frameworks and processes (P.3)
- Ability to use a variety of research methodologies (R.3)
Teaching and learning strategies
This subject is delivered in weekly sessions between Weeks 2 to 12 in the form of one-hour interactive lectures, 2.5-hour technical workshops, and 2.5-hour design studios. The activities for this subject are centred on self-initiated learning. Students are expected to conduct independent research, attend all lectures and tutorials and follow suggested progress patterns for each of their individual project.
This subject incorporates a range of teaching and learning strategies which includes; interactive lectures, discussions, demonstrations, studio activities, design thinking and making. Each class is complemented by prior reading, research and reflection on studio work, collaborative and individual tasks. Collaborative tasks involve working in a group to explore how diverse research processes and methodologies can be used to create an expanded fashion practice.
Lecture and studio activities include, visual and technical research, illustration, photography, mixed media. Studios offer students an opportunity to have formative feedback from studio lectures and peers. The iterative process of conceptualising and realising the project outcomes are documented in an A3 journal, which demonstrates visual and written research, creative ideas and design development. The final panel presentation offers formative and summative feedback to students on their project outcomes.
There is opportunity for students to undertake a Global Studio as a part of the project and travel overseas to work with specialist technicians and crafts people within the Asian region.
Content (topics)
This subject is facilitated through a combination of lectures, workshops and student supervision. Students are encouraged to become independent researchers and designers by working individually on proposed projects in consultation with a specialist supervisor. The subject contains:
- Workshops and tutorials will assist in the development of a personal aesthetic and design philosophy
- The development of a design project, which is informed and underpinned by a conceptual and aesthetic research
- Design decisions and complex problem solving
- The opportunity for students to develop conceptual and experimental design outcomes
- Critical analysis and reflection throughout research inquiry and the design process.
Assessment task 1: Visual Research Journal and Design / Shape Development / Conceptual Garment Proposal
Start of development of a body of visual and conceptual research work that conveys a thematic and aesthetic viewpoint
The assessment task project brief can be downloaded from UTSonline/subject documents.
This task addresses the following subject learning objectives:
1, 2 and 5
This task also addresses the following course intended learning outcomes that are linked with a code to indicate one of the five CAPRI graduate attribute categories (e.g. C.1, A.3, P.4, etc.):
C.1, P.2 and R.3
1. Visual research & shape development journal (60%)
2. Conceptual outfit (30%)
3. Time Management (10%)
The students' time in the studio needs to demonstrate professional approach to time management and communication.
|Criteria linkages:
SLOs: subject learning objectives
CILOs: course intended learning outcomes
Assessment task 2: Conceptual Design Proposal
Shape and form development
Start of development of a body of visual and conceptual research work that conveys an exploration into how the thematic and aesthetic viewpoint is developing in reference to Shape, form, and its relationship to the body.
The assessment task project brief can be downloaded from UTSonline/subject documents.
This task addresses the following subject learning objectives:
1, 2, 3, 4 and 5
This task also addresses the following course intended learning outcomes that are linked with a code to indicate one of the five CAPRI graduate attribute categories (e.g. C.1, A.3, P.4, etc.):
C.1, I.1 and P.3
1. Six look Conceptual Fashion Proposal (30%)
2. The three outfits (60%)
3. Presentation ( 10%)
The students' oral presentation needs to be clear and articulate in conveying fashion proposal.
|Criteria linkages:
SLOs: subject learning objectives
CILOs: course intended learning outcomes
Minimum requirements
The faculty of DAB expects students to attend 80% of all classes for all enrolled subjects. Achievement of the subject's aims is difficult if classes are not attended. Where assessment tasks are to be presented personally in class, attendance is mandatory.
Pursuant to UTS rule 3.8.2 students who do not satisfy attendance requirements may be refused permission by the Responsible Academic Officer to be considered for assessment for this subject.
Required texts
Fashion Theory, Berg Pub, Oxford (an electronic version of this journal is available on the UTS library website)
Recommended texts
UTS Coursework Assessment Policy and Procedures Manual.
Armstrong, H. 1995, Patternmaking for Fashion Design, Harper & Row,
Relis, N. 1993, Draping For Fashion Design, Prentice Hall,
Breward, C. 1995, The Culture Of Fashion, St. Martin's Press,
Davis, F. 1992, Fashion, Culture, And Identity, University of Chicago Press, Chicago
Jaffe, H. 1997, Fashion Theory, Berg Publications, Oxford,
McRobbie, A. 1999, In The Culture Society, Routledge,
Additional references to be recommended by supervisor.
Other resources
Online resources:
Brené Brown, The Power of Vulnerability, TEDX Houston, June 2010
Brené Brown, Listening to Shame, TED2012, March 2012
Brené Brown, Why Your Critics Aren't The Ones Who Count, December 2013
Isaac Mizrahi, Fashion and Creativity, TED Talks February 2008
Ken Robinson, Do Schools Kill Creativity?, TED Talks, February 2006
Tim Urban, Inside the mind of the Master Procrastinator, TED Talks, February 2016


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Evan Rachel Wood was not sympathetic about comments Ben Affleck made about filming a gay kiss 20 years ago.
Director Kevin Smith appeared at Outfest in Los Angeles over the weekend and revealed that Affleck thought his same-sex kiss with Jason Lee in the 1997 film "Chasing Amy" was a great acting feat, Gay Star News reports.
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"Try getting raped in a scene. Also, grow up Ben," Wood wrote in the now-deleted tweets.
"I'm sure he just thought it was funny, but jokes like that are damaging," Wood continued. "Also, you think us ladies like kissing all the guys we kiss? Just cause its a "straight kiss" doesnt mean we enjoy it. Ahem."
Wood explained that she deleted her previous tweets due to the backlash her comments received.
I have deleted the thread because of the sickening things people have written in response. I dont want to give that kind of hatred a place.
— #EvanRachelWould (@evanrachelwood) July 19, 2017


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