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I brought a jug of dark green Sicilian olive oil, freshly pressed from a friend's farm, back to my home in the hills along the border between Tuscany and Umbria. "È buono," said my neighbor, Arnaldo, when he tasted it. "It's good but … non ė genuino."
Non ė genuino – it's about the worst thing an Italian can say about another Italian's food, whether oil, cheese, wine or pork ragù. It translates as "it's not the real thing," but what it really means is, "This is not the way we do it here, not the way our forebears have been doing it since Etruscan times, and not, in fact, the right way."
In this case, caro Arnaldo, I beg to differ. What I had offered was a fresh-tasting oil made from Nocellara del Belice olives, picked green and pressed immediately, radiant with the almond-to-artichoke flavors characteristic of that varietal, which is grown mostly in and around western Sicily's Belice valley. Moreover, it was lush, verdant and fresh from the press — I knew because I was there when it happened.
This encounter led me to think about the astonishing variety of foods that proliferate throughout the long, skinny, undulating boot that is Italy, and about the intense pride each region, each province, each little mountain village or coastal fishing port takes in its own traditions.
Italians, it almost goes without saying, invented the locavore phenomenon — and invented it a long time ago. It's what makes a culinary tour of this remarkable country so seductive and astonishing.
What makes olive oils great?
But it's also a trap of deception. A New York Times reporter — who happens to be a friend of mine — fell into that trap recently when writing about Umbrian olive oil. "Our oil," her informants told her (I'm extrapolating), "is not like that sweet Tuscan oil. Our oil has character!"
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Sweet oil? Tuscan? Really? Peppery, fruity, bitter, complex — these are the characteristics I taste in a well-made Tuscan oil. But not sweet.
Umbrian olive oil can be, and often is, excellent. The main local cultivar is Moraiolo, which is high in antioxidants that give it an overwhelming intensity, so much so that producers blend Moraiolo olives with others to calm that muscular quality. But Umbrian olive oil is also hard to distinguish from Tuscan oil. In fact, I would argue almost all high-quality central Italian oils — made from a mix of olives (Frantoio, Leccino, Pendolino and Moraiolo are the usual blend); often grown at high altitudes; usually harvested when still immature and pressed immediately thereafter — typically share certain acerbic flavors and peppery aromas that are redolent of freshly cut grass, artichoke or tomato leaves. I doubt most North American consumers, even well-educated ones, confronted with a selection of oils from Umbria and Tuscany, could tell them apart.
There are, I'm told, more than 500 olive cultivars grown in Italy, some of them widely known and grown such as Leccino, universally valued for its resistance to low temperatures, and some of them only from very specific regions, like Dritto, an olive that appears to be exclusive to the Abruzzi, or Perenzana olives from northern Puglia. With the spread of olive culture to other regions of the world — California, Chile, South Africa, New Zealand — some of these cultivars are being grown far from their native soil, and the oil made from them often suffers as a result — non ė genuino!
Or at least that's what Italians believe, and my heart — and my palate — agrees. The best oils taste of that elusive characteristic called terroir — a combination of environment (soil structure, altitude, climate, weather), variety and technology, both traditional and modern, adjusted to match time-honored local tastes. In Provence, for instance, local taste demands a fusty flavor, the result of anaerobic fermentation in the olives, producing an oil considered defective elsewhere.
But I also believe North Americans are fortunate not to be trapped in the locavore delusion. We have access to olive oils from all over Italy, indeed from all over the world. How to deal with that abundance can be a problem, but it's a problem we should welcome. Unlike those Umbrian producers, we can buy an Umbrian oil and a Tuscan one and taste them side by side, along with one, perhaps, from Puglia, or Sicily, or even from Verona in northern Italy. Or indeed Tunisia or Spain or New Zealand.
The revolution starts here
Now I'm going to tell you something radical: I have tried to love olive oils from retail outlets across the entire U.S., but with few exceptions, I have almost always been disappointed. Many retailers simply don't recognize the importance of harvest dates or the critical significance of maintaining oils in dark, cool environments. They display bottles under shop lights in order to entice customers, and they've paid top dollar for oil when it first arrives on the market, so even if it stays around a while, the price still has to reflect their costs.
So more and more, my advice is to go to online distributors, many of whom get their oil directly from the producer and most of whom keep their precious bottles warehoused in a dark, cool environment. Here are a few I recommend; I've also noted where there are retail stores. Note that the first three sell only Italian olive oils; the rest carry a variety from many other areas, including California:
- www.olio2go.com, retail store at 8400 Hilltop Road, Fairfax, Va.; (703) 876-4666.
- www.gustiamo.com, mail order only; (718) 860-2949.
- www.dipaloselects.com, retail store at DiPalo Fine Foods, 200 Grand St., New York, N.Y.; (212) 226-1033.
- www.markethallfoods.com, retail store at Rockridge Market Hall, 5655 College Avenue, Oakland, Calif.; (510) 250-6000.
- www.cortibrothers.com, retail store at 5810 Folsom Blvd., Sacramento, Calif.; (916) 736-3814.
- www.zingermans.com, retail store at 422 Detroit St., Ann Arbor, Mich.; (734) 663-3354.
Main photo: Bottles of olive oil. Credit: iStockPhoto
The demographics of the United States reflect an increasingly global world, and so do the demographics of our farm operators. The U.S. Department of Agriculture recently released the nearly complete Agriculture Census for 2012, a database that is completed every five years.
A three-part series to make visible the lives of the invisible
Part 1: Data, maps and a history of exclusion from land ownership.
Part 2: Female farmers of color.
Part 3: In moving pictures, farmers of color talk about their work, challenges and dreams in three short videos.
With each update to the census, the type of statistical information available increases, in particular in the area of farmers of color. Yet, a simple Google search on basic statistics and stories about Native American farmers or African-American female farmers, for example, uncovers few detailed stories.
More often than not, the information that can be found is about those who dominate the agriculture industry — white male farm operators. Numbers often determine what and who is covered in depth. But equally true is that this country has a long history of institutional exclusion and racism against Native American and African-American farmers, other farmers of color and women. Yet it is Native American and African-American farmers and their ecological knowledge of farming traditions that built this country.
Data on farmers of color in the United States
In the United States, the vast majority of farmers continue to be white men, but the number of farmers of color is increasing.
More than 80% of all principal farm operators in the U.S. — the person primarily responsible for the on-site, day-to-day operation of a farm or ranch, as defined by the USDA — are white men (1.7 million out of a total of 2.1 million), according to the 2012 Census. Of the total principal operators nationwide, 95 percent are white, including 96% of male farmers and 93% of female farmers.
Between 2007 and 2012 — the period included in the 2012 Agriculture Census — every category of minority principal farm operators increased. Latinos farmers increased significantly, followed by American Indian, African-American, Asian, multiracial and Native Hawaiian and other Pacific Islanders.
Where are these farmers of color — in what states and counties do they farm? This series of four informational maps shows the top five states where farmers of color – Native American, African-American, Latino and Asian — are growing roots by county and state.
Historical exclusion of farmers
Civil rights abuses in USDA state offices existed from the agency's inception, based on a 1997 USDA-commissioned investigation,"Civil Rights at the United States Department of Agriculture" and the General Accounting Office's 2008 report "U.S. Department of Agriculture: Recommendations and Options to Address Management Deficiencies in the Office of the Assistant Secretary for Civil Rights." More recently, the nation witnessed the Pigford I and II settlements, class-action racial discrimination lawsuits filed by black farmers who were denied loans and other federal aid between 1981and 1996. Many farmers included in the settlement are still awaiting disbursement.
The Pigford settlements, which lately have been mired in accusations of fraud, highlight the country's ongoing divisive stance about race and reparations. Meanwhile, other groups, including Latino, Native American and female farmers are seeking compensation and awaiting judgment or payment.
To quell growing discontent about reporting civil rights complaints, U.S. Agriculture Secretary Tom Vilsack produced a civil rights fact sheet on "USDA Accomplishments 2009-2012." As of July 2014, the USDA has announced grants to help veteran and farmers of color get started in the industry. Despite these efforts, a profound distrust of USDA offices and officials continues.
Reparations and the white environmental movement
Ta-Nehisi Coates recently published a piece on "The Case for Reparations" in the May 2014 issue of Atlantic. Coates begins by explaining how government programs, instituted from the end of slavery to the present, systematically denied, stole or swindled African-Americans out of their land and home ownership.
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In June 2014, Carolyn Finney, a geographer at the University of California Berkeley, published "Black Faces, White Spaces: Reimagining the Relationship of African-Americans to the Great Outdoors" in which she redefines African-Americans' long and profound relationship to the environmental movement, though it has largely been invisible or ignored. Through her own family's story of land dispossession and those of others, Finney has collected the stories of unseen pioneering African-Americans and their diverse connection and commitment to the great outdoors. Her research reinserts African Americans back into the predominantly white environmental movement narrative in the United States.
And finally, the Green 2.0 Working Group published The State of Diversity in Environmental Organizations: Mainstream NGOs, Foundations & Government Agencies in June. The report concluded that a green ceiling for people of color; unconscious bias, discrimination, and insular recruiting practices; and a lackluster effort and disinterest in addressing diversity still exist in environmental organizations across the country.
Finney's book, Coates' article and The State of Diversity In Environmental Organizations Report reveal a historical context that have allowed exclusion to persist to this day. Both Finney and Coates begin and end with land ownership and dispossession, and both elegantly shine a light on African-Americans and other people of color. They make visible the invisible, and they make people of color the main story.
Main photo: Cynthia Hayes is the founder of the Southeastern African American Organic Network, or SAAFON, based in Savannah, Ga. Credit: Sarah Khan
The way to make a small fortune in wine, they say, is to start with a large one. The phrase comes to mind as I taste the first vintage at London Cru, the eccentric, possibly uneconomic, but very serious urban winery in southwest London: the first in the UK capital.
London Cru follows a pattern of urban wineries such as 8th Estate in Hong Kong and New York's City Winery, buying in grapes and vinifying them in the city. It is the brainchild of the keen young team that surrounds Cliff Roberson, a 74-year-old wine merchant of considerable renown.
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He started the importer Buckingham Vintners in 1974, and in 1991 opened his flagship shop, Roberson Wine, in London's Kensington district. By 2004, he'd sold all of his shares in Buckingham (by then one of the UK's biggest wine companies, selling 40 million bottles a year) to the European wine group Schenk, to focus on the retail side of the business.
A couple of years ago, Roberson "got itchy" as he put it. When his right-hand man, Adam Green, suggested they set up a winery, he was interested.
"Ninety-nine out of a hundred businessmen would have run a mile," Green says. "Cliff is that one in a hundred who saw the possibilities."
From warehouse to urban winery
They enlisted as a partner an itinerant entrepreneur, Will Tomlinson. With a million-pound start-up fund, they equipped a former gin distillery in Fulham that served as Roberson's warehouse with five open-topped stainless steel fermenters and a barrel cellar. The capacity: 2,500 cases, They hired Australian winemaker Gavin Monery, whose résumé includes premium wineries such as Cullen and Cape Mentelle in Margaret River, Chave in Hermitage, and Remoissenet and Alex Gambal in Burgundy.
Roberson, a company with annual wine sales of 10 to 12 million pounds through retail and the restaurant trade, and with a fine wine broking arm, has access to premium producers in every wine region of the world.
"Most of the guys we are buying grapes from, we import their wines anyway," Monery says.
So he can control harvest dates (they pick early for freshness), and quality. To ensure they get exactly what they want, they pay handsomely — more than double the going rate, in some cases.
The first vintage, the 2013, consists of four wines: a Chardonnay, a Cabernet Sauvignon and a Syrah from Roussillon, and a Barbera from Piedmont. Monery has sourced three more for 2014, a Syrah and a Garnacha from Calatayud in northeastern Spain, and a white English grape Bacchus, from Sandhurst Vineyards in Kent. Labels are minimalist: the wines are called SW6 (London Cru's postcode) White Wine No. 1, Red Wine No. 1, and so forth. For reasons that are difficult to fathom, the UK's Byzantine food laws forbid the mention of vintage or grape variety on the label.
A long journey by refrigerated truck
When the grapes are picked, they are transferred immediately to refrigerated trucks, which then make the 36-hour journey through mainland Europe, over the English Channel and into the winery. The trucks are key to the operation, Monery says. A fleet of such vehicles buzzing back and forth through Europe can't come cheap. Is this a viable business model?
"Well," Green says with a smile, "it's not the safest or the most rational business plan you could come up with, but, equally, it's one that we all thought was interesting. We are thoroughly aiming to offer our investors a good return, and they see the aesthetic pleasure of being involved, and of bringing something genuinely new to London."
Indeed, it is aesthetically pleasing to be in a fully functioning winery — complete with pungent aromas of oak and fermentation — in the middle of London. And the wines themselves? I don't know what I was expecting from French and Italian varietals vinified in Fulham by an Australian, but I found them fresh, bright, charming, and loaded with varietal character.
It's a pity that the 2013 is made in such tiny quantities — far fewer than 1,000 cases in all, and they are down to their last bottles. There's a small fortune to be made here.
London Cru wines
All about $24 (£15) , available from the winery's website.
SW6 White Wine 1 – Chardonnay: Bright, fresh, rather exotic nose with nice creamy roundness, this mitigated on the palate by brisk and precise acidity cutting through crunchy apple and some high tropical notes. Charming.
SW6 Red Wine 1 – Syrah: Picked early at 12 degrees alcohol. Delicate white pepper nose followed by a savory palate with dark fruit topped with ripe black cherry. Soft tannins with grip dissolve into lovely mouth-watering juice. Excellent.
SW6 Red Wine 2 – Barbera: Ruby red hue, bitter cherries on the nose, dancing acidity, tannins that are dry, even dusty, quickly releasing gouts of mouth-watering juice leaving a memory of ripe fallen damsons. Fresh, wild and utterly beguiling.
SW6 Red Wine 3 – Cabernet Sauvignon: Aromas of leaf and nettle that swirl out of the glass like a genie from a lamp. Classic blackcurrant leaf palate, tannins with grip and heft, scent of menthol alongside the hedgerow fruit, lots of juice on the finish. The best of a very strong quartet of wines. Bravo.
Main photo: In London Cru's urban winery, workers led by winemaker Gavin Monery prepare Chardonnay grapes for pressing. Credit: Ian Sterling/London Cru
With the continued interest in fermentation and increased popularity in drinks such as kombucha on the rise, other types of unusual beverages are getting attention. One of these is shrubs.
Ever since a meal at Pok Pok in Portland, Oregon, revealed my adoration for drinking vinegars (aka shrubs), I've been on the lookout for the tarty, fruity concentrate wherever I've roamed. Finally, at a recent San Francisco Bay area food event, I saw a demure woman standing in a corner pouring tiny tastes of her homemade shrubs.
Christina Merkes, a classically trained chef and entrepreneur, had hit on some winning combinations of fruits, herbs and vinegar that drew a crowd to her like bees swarming the hive. The fig vanilla shrub had the deep flavor of that fall fruit, while the blood orange cardamom was a spicy citrus mouthful. and the cabernet was a smooth wine-country symphony. Merkes has a knack for unusual combinations of local, seasonal fruits and herbs. And she is onto something, as more and more mixologists, bartenders and home cooks explore the age-old process of making drinking vinegars and shrubs.
Shrubs started as means of food preservation
The custom began before the age of refrigeration, when fruit was mixed with sugar and vinegar for preservation. The resulting drink was served for medicinal purposes, as a fever reducer and blood thinner, and used as a replacement for alcohol as well as a mixer for cocktails. Smugglers added fruit and sugar to tainted barrels of rum they had hidden in the ocean as a way to mask the seawater flavor, and colonialists mixed fruit and sugar with vinegar as a way to preserve the harvest.
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Pok Pok chef Andy Ricker came back from a trip to Southeast Asia, where drinking vinegars are a commonly quaffed beverage, and he put them on the menu at his restaurant. He felt the tart tonics would be the perfect foil for his spicy Thai street food, and they've proved wildly popular. He is most frequently credited with starting the shrub and drinking vinegar trend in the U.S.
Merkes was inspired to try her hand at making shrubs after a friend raved about a cocktail she'd had at a bar in wine country that contained pomegranate shrub mixed with bourbon and jalapeno. So Merkes embarked on a path of discovery, testing and mixing, balancing tart and sweet, and using her chef's sharpened palate to come up with unusual and flavorful fruit, vegetable and herb combinations. She found basic recipes online, then followed her taste buds for new flavors to create.
One such recipe heats the vinegar for the infusion with fruit and the other uses a cold method. Merkes prefers not to use heat, saying the fresh fruit or vegetable flavor comes through better without it. Here are a few other tips from her for a successful shrub brew:
- Sterilize the container before adding the shrub mixture.
- Use white balsamic or apple cider vinegars or a combination of the two.
- Use organic sugar, either white or turbinado, depending on the color of the fruit or vegetable.
- Use only fruits or vegetables that are in season.
- Store the shrub in the refrigerator, where it will keep for up to a year.
Drinking vinegars are incredibly versatile, beyond a refreshing thirst quencher or cocktail mixer, although that is what they are best known for. You can use them to make a soda by mixing 1 to 2 tablespoons of shrub into a glass of sparkling water and adding lots of ice, or add berry- or ginger-flavored shrubs to perk up iced tea. You can also swirl them into a glass of wine or sparkling wine for a riff on kir royale or wine spritzer. And shrubs are a natural in cocktails; barkeeps in the U.S. are coming up with all kinds of creative concoctions. For ideas, see what they are trying at Whiskey Soda Lounge at Pok Pok.
Merkes has come up with several cocktails, including one that is layered with bourbon on the bottom and top and black cherry and apricot basil shrubs in the middle and another that is a take on the original inspiration for her shrub business called The Marin Cruiser: pineapple melange shrub with vodka, lime, cilantro, jalapeno and sparkling water.
Other uses for shrubs include in salad dressings; whisked into mayonnaise for a sauce on fish; as a topping for ice cream, fresh fruit and cakes; and as a finishing sauce for grilled meat and poultry. Just as they used the technique in early America, drinking vinegar is a great way to capture the bounty of what is in the garden or at the farmers market right now before winter is upon us.
Merkes is still perfecting her recipes but expects to have her products available for sale in the next year. Pok Pok sells its drinking vinegar online, so if you don't feel like making your own, check out one of their flavors.
As drinking vinegars continue to catch on, keep an eye out for them at local bars and specialty food shops. The flavors they can add to your favorite recipes will surely have you coming back for more.
Photo: Shrubs, or drinking vinegars, are concentrates that can be used to make cocktails and other drinks as well as add flavor to other dishes. Credit: Brooke Jackson
Kimchi, the national dish of Korea, has been prepared, fermented and served as a daily tradition for more than 2,000 years. It's served cold but is so spicy you take another bite to cool your mouth.
This extremely spicy recipe may be a side dish, but it has mythical standing at the Korean table.
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"It tastes good. It will make you live long," says Byong Joo "B.J." Yu, owner of the gargantuan Koreana Plaza mega food store in Rancho Cordova, Calif.. His store doesn't merely offer kimchi. It's displayed in a refrigerated case so large you feel as if you're approaching the Great Wall of Kimchi.
When Yu was growing up in Korea, he was served his mother's homemade kimchi every day, Yu remembers. "It doesn't matter how old the kimchi is. It's good from the first day to as long as it lasts. You can eat it all the way — no waste."
When it ages and the taste leans to sour, it's served in soup.
Because Korea is a cold country, cool-weather-loving cabbage and radish (daikon) dominate the favored types of vegetables for kimchi, although there are nearly 200 versions.
What begins as a pickle morphs into a fermented dish. Koreans famously place new kimchi in big black pottery jars and bury them in the ground to keep the very-much-alive cultures in kimchi at an even, cool temperature.
Yu eats kimchi every day. "It makes your stomach comfortable."
Yu may not know why he's right, but he is.
"There's been a real emergence in the public, and a real mystique, about the wonders of fermented foods," says Maria Marco, assistant professor at the University of California, Davis' department of food science and technology. "The flavor profiles change, because the microorganisms continue to grow. It's nature's way of making food taste different."
Health benefits
Kimchi is a powerful vegetable probiotic, Marco says. It contributes health benefits in a manner similar to that provided by dairy probiotic foods, such as in yogurt.
And with many in the medical community now referring to the gut as the second brain, kimchi benefits that gut IQ by helping the body absorb nutrients.
"There's a microbial zoo in there," Marco says of kimchi. "The bacteria consume the sugars on the vegetable and they spit out the organic acids, which are easily digested by our bodies," Marco says, all of which increases gut flora and aids digestion.
Kimchi is also nature's way of preserving food.
Yu said that despite its ability to age, most kimchi is about a 3 months old or just-made. About a year is enough for the flavor to change from something fresh, spicy and cole slaw-like to what Yu describes as sour.
"Usually youngsters like the sour taste. As you get older, you prefer the fresh. I'm 57 and I still like it sour." When kimchi is highly fermented, Yu says the best way to serve it is in cold soup.
At a Korean restaurant, kimchi is never ordered alone. It just shows up when you order your entrée along with lots of other side dishes called banchan. Restaurant kimchi is invariably fresh.
It's not hard to make kimchi, but it takes time. Napa cabbage (also called Chinese cabbage) is wilted in salted water several hours and rinsed well. Then, packed under each leaf, is a marinade of Korean red pepper powder, sugar, a good deal of garlic and fresh ginger, shredded daikon and tiny shrimp. This marinade may have soy sauce or fish sauce, anchovy or dried oyster or a combination.
The most obvious ingredient, at least to the taste buds, is Korean red pepper powder. It is not cayenne or paprika, but a member of the capsicum family called gochugaru that is incredibly hot. It's called and sold under a variety of brands in flakes or coarse and medium grind.
For some, kimchi may be too spicy. Yu says for Koreans, there's no such thing. "It's not spicy to us."
Kimchi is so readily available that it's rarely made at home. At Koreana Plaza, it's made on site every day. For beginners, Yu recommends picking up a small container of fresh kimchi either from a Korean or Asian store that makes it on site. Or, choose among a half dozen of high quality commercial brands sold in jars and kept cold in the produce section of many grocery stores.
Best temperature for kimchi?
Kimchi of any age sold cold is best. If the jar is shelf stable at room temperature, the heat from being processed has most likely destroyed kimchi's best properties.
Kimchi is typically mixed with other foods on the table, such as rice, noodles and stews. Recently I thinly sliced prepared kimchi and added it to a batch of basic American cole slaw, mayonnaise dressing and all. This surprise addition of kimchi, which will stump guests trying to guess the surprise ingredient, keeps the cabbage theme while adding a vague sourness and an extreme hit of spice.
Main photo: Freshly made kimchi. Credit: 4kodiak / iStockphoto
As a food writer first and foremost, I don't go to the Great American Beer Festival for the booze so much as for the grub in the booze.
Pretzel stouts, macadamia nut porters, kiwi and taro-root India Pale Ales, a kumquat-honey double wit and a Märzen made with grits — for me, the Brewers Association's flagship event, held annually in the fall in Denver, is a multicourse banquet writ liquid.
Granted, the more experimental the adjunct is, the harder the beer generally is to make and/or sell. Take Two Roads' Urban Funk, a zingy wild ale the Connecticut brewery made with yeast that the Sacred Heart University biology department captured during Hurricane Sandy, of all things. Most of the following, then, are one-offs or highly limited releases with little to no distribution. So consider this your inspiration for adopting the slogan "Must-Have Beer, Will Travel."
The meat and seafood counter
Champion Clam Bake Gose and Mas Cerveza: Here's Gose in a nutshell: a sour wheat beer originating in Germany that's brewed with a touch of salt as well as coriander. Here's Gose in a clamshell: delicious. Down in Charlottesville, Va., Champion head brewer Hunter Smith starts with the recipe for his Face Eater Gose but eschews the pink Himalayan sea salt he usually adds to the kettle in favor of whole Rappahannock Olde Salt clams, which lend a briny grace note to the light-bodied, gently tart base. Just for kicks, there are hemp seeds in the mash too.
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Smith has also collaborated with chef Tomas Rahal of Charlottesville's Mas Tapas to make a beer tinged with the flavors of Spain — specifically the bones from one of the world's great hams, jamón ibérico, and smoked pimentón (paprika) as well as smoked gray sea salt. The result: a distinctly savory and, yes, smoky but smooth ale that, at the festival's Farm to Table Pavilion, beautifully complemented pan con tomate topped with sliced octopus, courtesy of Boulder, Colo., restaurant Basta.
Dogfish Head Choc Lobster: Its reputation for nuttiness notwithstanding, this Delaware pioneer hardly broke virgin ground when it began dropping Maine lobsters and cocoa powder into the boil for a robust porter two years ago. After all, chocolate porters and oyster stouts made with their namesake ingredients aren't unheard of, and neither are dishes that pair shellfish with sweet elements like vanilla. That said, this summertime brewpub exclusive isn't sweet at all. Imagine adding a splash of cocoa to some watered-down coffee and then drinking it in the proximity of sea spray. Somehow — and I'm honestly not sure how — it's better than it sounds.
Wynkoop Bourbon-Barrel Aged Rocky Mountain Oyster Stout: Speaking of oyster stout — this isn't. Denver's craft granddaddy took to brewing with roasted bull's balls as an April Fool's joke in 2012, and the response was such that it now produces a small batch once or twice a year. The bourbon barrel-aged version I tried at the festival had all the roasty, toasty, moderately creamy qualities you'd expect, with the bonus of a mellow yet unmistakable meaty savor.
The garden
Moody Tongue Cold-Pressed Paw Paw Belgian: What Jared Rouben, the Culinary Institute of America-trained chef behind Chicago's few-months-old "culinary brewery," calls the "tropical fruit of the Midwest" — the indigenous, commercially scarce paw paw — rightly elicits comparisons to mango and papaya. In this ale, however, it shows as more crisp than juicy, more fragrant than downright fruity. (Better yet, Rouben's also about to release — get this — a Shaved Black-Truffle Pilsner.)
Piney River Sweet Potato Ale: If you've had it up to here with pumpkin beer, this Missouri-made alternative could be your new jam. Forget candied "yam" — the palate is freshly rootsy rather than overly reliant on baking spice, while the initially creamy mouth feel finishes as crisp as the roasted skin of the real thing.
Jailbreak Made Wit Basil: Basil seemed to be the herb du jour at the festival, popping up at several booths, but this Laurel, Md., newcomer owned the stuff, loading a Belgian white with fresh, sweet, green notes without sacrificing the subtleties of wheat, citrus and coriander.
10 Barrel Cucumber Crush: Nabbing the gold medal in the Field Beer category, this Oregon- and Idaho-located brewery's twist on a tart wheat Berliner Weisse absolutely bursts with lemon and cucumber, enhancing the effervescence characteristic of the style.
The wilderness
Scratch 105: The farm, the field, the forest: This Ava, Ill., outfit is leading the return to growing and foraging for ingredients, brewing one-offs that evoke their terroir as thoroughly as any wine. This year, Scratch brought only gruits — hopless, plant-based concoctions — to the table, including one that contained, yes, 105 ingredients, from several types of mushroom to wild bee balm and other flowers to various roots, yielding a gingery, savory, musky, wonderfully complex sensation.
Forbidden Root Shady Character: Like Scratch, this 3-month-old Chicago operation derives its inspiration from historical brewing practices, pledging allegiance to its botanical ingredients rather than conventional style. Take its porter, made with black walnuts and roasted chestnuts as well as licorice, star anise and black pepper — all of which express themselves in earthy, spicy harmony.
The complete dishes
Right Brain Thai Peanut: Heirloom beets, grilled asparagus, Mangalitsa pig heads. Traverse City, Mich., brewer Russell Springsteen will put just about any edible thing into his beer, but my favorite was this dead ringer for cold soba noodles. Made with peanut butter, Thai chilies, coconut oil and cilantro, it delivers a sharp kick in a velvet boot.
Short's Bourbon Carrot Cake: I'm going to go out on a limb and assert that this Bellaire, Mich., brewery was the only one pouring three different beers made with marshmallows this year. Though its Key Lime Pie scored the gold in the experimental-beer category for its limeade-meets-lactose zest, the medal in my head went to the Bourbon Carrot Cake, with aromas of baking spice and dried fruit giving way to a mouthful of oak laced with cream — a boozy doozy.
Main photo: The Wynkoop Bourbon-Barrel Aged Rocky Mountain Oyster Stout. Credit: Courtesy of Wynkoop
When people talk about eating local food, the first thing that comes to mind is often produce-related — shopping for fruits and vegetables at a farmers market or joining a community-supported agriculture group, or CSA. While those actions do help support a local food economy, an event I recently attended made me realize how much broader the idea of being a "locavore" has become.
"Let Us Eat Local" is an annual benefit for Just Food, a New York-based nonprofit that focuses on making good-quality food accessible across the city by promoting community gardens, CSAs, urban farms and the like. Its tasting event brings together chefs, bartenders, farmers, fish and meat purveyors, beverage producers and representatives of other New York-area culinary businesses to showcase the region's bounty.
Local food not just about fruits and vegetables
Although I've attended this fundraiser before, I was struck by the sophistication and "big-tent" feel of this year's iteration. Not surprisingly, the event included some of the city's stalwart veggie-focused and vegan eateries, but their tables were just a stone's throw from those of Jimmy's No. 43, known especially for its meat and beer offerings, and Momofuku Ssäm Bar, whose founding chef, David Chang, famously delivered the line "Let's put pork in every f****** dish" when he appeared as himself on the HBO show "Treme."
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There were also farm-to-table brunch spots and an Italian perennial, but the remainder of the restaurant lineup was filled with some of the heaviest hitters on New York's fine-dining scene — tony Michelin-star recipients and Zagat-list toppers such as Blue Hill, Esca, Gramercy Tavern, Perry St and Riverpark. The sheer preponderance of these types of places made it clear that local food is no longer the sole domain of the ascetic or preachy.
Some of the most intriguing participants were the artisanal craftspeople whose wares defy the pious crunchy-granola expectations that (often unfairly) get pinned on anything relating to sustainability. It's nice to see the movement become established enough to let down its hair and have some fun. Here are three examples of products that break the mold:
Mixing it up
The next time you sit down to a meal of organic local produce, cheese and poultry, consider pairing it with a glass of soda. Wait, what? At first glance, soda might seem like a strange bedfellow, but when you taste the syrups produced by Anton Nocito's P&H Soda Co., the combination makes perfect sense. Eschewing extracts, Nocito creates his blends in a commercial kitchen in Brooklyn using only sustainably sourced whole ingredients. In addition to six year-round varieties — cream, ginger, grapefruit, hibiscus, lovage and sarsaparilla — he experiments with flavors such as the tart, aromatic lemon verbena he served at the event.
Available at retail locations and via the company's website, P&H's complex concentrates can be mixed with seltzer to your desired level of sweetness, but they're also terrific in cocktails, which is how they're being used at some of New York's hottest bars and restaurants. Looking to put a spin on the classic margarita? Nocito recommends adding a little of his hibiscus syrup, which is made from a blend of dried hibiscus leaves, organic ginger and cane sugar.
Worth her salt
If you're making the hibiscus margarita with P&H syrup, you might want to rim the glass with New York sea salt, produced on a rooftop high above Manhattan. Although Urban Sproule did not have its own table at this year's event, Sarah Sproule's company was represented in the evening's gift bags, which included small tins of her "Virgin" salt. (She also produces several infused varieties, such as celery and grilled ramp.)
The idea for the venture came to the young chef when she was doing weekly cooking demonstrations at the Union Square Greenmarket. As she prepared dishes using market ingredients, she dreamed of topping them with her own locally made seasonings. The seawater she uses is gathered 30 miles east of Montauk, Long Island, by two area fishermen and transported to a building in Chelsea, where it is brought up to the roof (16 floors by service elevator, plus two flights by stairs) and placed into an evaporation house. Once the crystals form, the salt is harvested by hand and baked by the sun before being infused or packaged in its pure form.
Your pick of pickles
One of the veterans of New York City's resurgent artisanal food movement, Rick's Picks has been brining local produce for the past decade. Based on the Lower East Side, a neighborhood filled with pushcart pickle vendors a century ago, founder Rick Field has helped transform the image of this ultra-traditional food-preservation technique. His product line — which includes "Phat Beets," "Hotties" (Sriracha pickle chips), "Smokra" (pickled okra) and "Pepi Pep Peps" (pickled red bell peppers) — is clearly marketed to appeal to those who would breeze right past the supermarket Vlasics and B&Gs. These are not your Nana's gherkins.
While you could certainly go the conventional route and top your next burger with the company's gently sweet "Bee 'n' Beez" (bread-and-butter pickles), the promotional postcard handed out at the event also featured this recipe for Pickletinis.
Recipe courtesy of Rick's Picks
Yield: Makes 1 drink.
2½ ounces gin
½ ounces dry vermouth
½ ounces Rick's Picks Classic Sours brine
1 Classic Sours spear
Fresh dill, for rimming the martini glass
Pour the ingredients into a mixing glass filled with ice cubes. Stir for 30 seconds. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with the Classic Sours spear. Rim the glass with fresh dill.
Main photo: Dishes of Portobello Mousse by Dirt Candy. Credit: Sofia Perez
I feel for James Birch. He is having a tough year. Sitting in the shade, his weather-beaten hands on his lap, he describes prepping his fields for the fall planting. Cutting furrows with his tractor, the blades kicked up thick, Dust Bowl clouds of powder-dry dirt that made it difficult to breathe. In the telling of his story he laughed, no doubt because in the third year of a devastating drought, a farmer needs a sense of humor.
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Birch doesn't complain. He grew up around farming. And farming is what he knows, so he's not about to quit even if these past several years have been really hard.
Throughout the Western United States and especially in California, farmers have been dealing with a multiyear drought that shows no signs of ending. It's gotten so bad, fertile fields have been taken out of production because there's no water for irrigation. That means lower crop yields and higher prices for consumers.
The problem begins in the mountains. Within sight of Flora Bella Farm, the Sierra Nevada runs for hundreds of miles. The line of rugged peaks cuts along the eastern side of the state. The importance of the snowpack that collects on the Sierras for California's agriculture cannot be overstated.
The farms around Birch in Tulare County north of Bakersfield depend on that water. After a buildup of snow during the winter, when the temperatures warm, the snow melts and collects in the Upper Kaweah Watershed, which feeds the north, middle and south forks of the Kaweah River, irrigating Birch's fields. But again this year the snowpack was below normal. And that was bad news for Birch.
A hundred-year drought
A dozen years ago I visited Flora Bella Farm because Birch and I were working on a farm-to-kitchen cookbook with California-Mediterranean recipes. On that visit, Birch walked me to the river next to the farm. The cool water ran fast and clear and was several feet deep. Last week he emailed a photograph that showed the problem in the most graphic way.
Birch stands on a completely dry riverbed.
Old-timers tell Birch that the last time the rivers dried up was in 1906 when a cowboy said he rode across the main fork and his horse's hooves didn't get wet.
In 2012 and 2013, the drought was bad. Knowing 2014 would be no better, Birch came up with a plan. He began converting his above-ground sprinklers to a drip system. He enlarged his holding ponds and filled them to capacity. But the drought was worse than expected.
Three rivers, now no rivers
One by one the Kaweah River's three tributaries dried up. And by mid-August he had used all the water in the ponds. In late September, the only water on the farm comes from a low volume well that supplies his home.
Without water, Birch doesn't have a lot to bring to the farmers markets where he sells his produce. When I saw him recently at the Santa Monica Farmers Market, he had only potatoes, squash, olives and grapes to sell. Around him the other farmers had their usual bounty on display. Why, I asked him, do they seem to be unaffected by the drought?
The answer was pretty simple. Birch relies entirely on the Sierras' snowmelt to irrigate his crops. The other farms have allotments from the California Aqueduct, which transports water 500 miles south from the San Joaquin-Sacramento River Delta, or they have high-volume wells that pump groundwater from the vast aquifers, the water-bearing sandy soils that lie beneath many parts of California.
Birch does not have access to either the aqueduct or to groundwater. Because he is in the foothills of the Sierras, the aquifer is too deep for him to reach except at great expense. And, even if he had the money to dig a well, the water-drilling companies in the area have a two-year waiting list.
After the rivers and his holding ponds dried up, the only water available was the low-volume house well. That was a tough moment. Whichever plants he didn't water, died. "First it was the cucumbers, then the peppers, tomatillos, most of the squash, the greens, and then everything in the fields," he said.
In the orchard, his mature fruit trees produce apricots, Santa Rosa and Golden Nectar plums, nectarines and sour cherries. He also has younger Mandarin orange, lemon and pomegranate trees. All the trees are stressed. He doles out the little bit of water he can from the house well. But ultimately he faces another difficult decision. If the river doesn't start flowing soon, he'll have to cut down the older trees and plant citrus trees, which use less water.
Between a rock and a hard place
Birch is preparing the next planting. In his greenhouse he is growing Swiss chard, broccoli, cauliflower, lettuce, chicory, collards, cabbage, artichokes, fennel and cardoon seedlings. Now they're strong and ready to plant. His fields are tilled and planted with mustard, spinach, radishes, mizuna, arugula and kale seeds. If he gets these crops to market, he will do well.
But Birch is in a bind.
Both the seedlings and seeds need moisture to grow. Birch reads the weather forecasts hoping storms will give him the rain he needs. But he has another problem. Winter is coming. The temperatures will soon drop. If the rains are late and the plants aren't mature enough before the frost comes, they won't survive.
Looking to the future
The truth is nobody knows when or if the rains will come. If the drought continues, farmers who are currently unaffected will be impacted.
Farmers relying on the California Aqueduct will find their allocations curtailed or eliminated. That has already happened in parts of the San Joaquin Valley, one of California's most important agricultural areas. In an extended drought, farmers whose water comes from wells will also be affected. Heavy use of the aquifer has caused a dramatic drop in the available groundwater.
To survive in a drier climate, farmers like Birch are pursuing conservation efforts.
Birch has applied for a federal grant from the Department of Agriculture's NRCS (Natural Resources Conservation Service) so he can switch completely from above-ground irrigation to an underground drip system.
To keep out the deer and squirrels that come down from the mountains looking for food and water, he built an 8-foot-tall fence. He planted a hedgerow of native flowering plants along the perimeter of the property to attract predatory insects to fight back infestations of aphids and mites, which eat the water-starved plants and carry destructive viruses.
In the best case scenario, if winter storms build up the snowpack in the Sierras., then the rivers will run as clear and deep as they have in the past, the aquifer will be replenished and Flora Bella Farm will be back to its former glory but this time needing less water than before.
And if the drought continues, Birch will be as ready as he can be.
Main photo: The cucumber fields at Flora Bella Farm in Three Rivers, Calif., during the 2014 drought. Credit: Dawn Birch


text:
Japonais by Morimoto
- Address:
600 West Chicago Avenue
Chicago, IL 60610Neighborhood:
River West
- Cuisine:
JapanesePrice: $31 to $50
Japonais by Morimoto
- Dining Style: Casual Elegant
- Website: http://www.japonaismorimoto.com/
- Phone: 3128229600x
- Hours of Operation:
Lunch: Monday - Friday: 11:30am - 2:30pm
Dinner: Sunday & Monday: 5:30pm - 10:00pm, Tuesday - Thursday: 5:30pm - 11:00pm, Friday & Saturday: 5:30pm - 11:30pm
- Payment Options: AMEX,Diners Club,Discover,MasterCard,Visa
- Cuisine: Sushi, Steak, Japanese
- Executive Chef: CHEF HISANOBU OSAKA
- Dress Code: Smart Casual
- Accepts Walk-Ins: Yes
- Additional Details: Banquet/Private Rooms, Bar Dining, Bar/Lounge, Beer, Chef's Table, Counter Seating, Full Bar, Late Night, Non-Smoking Restaurant, Patio/Outdoor Dining, Private Room, View, Wheelchair Access, Wine
A word from Japonais by Morimoto
Japonais by Morimoto offers its guests the signature cuisine of (Iron Chef) Masaharu Morimoto; a seamless blend of Japanese and Western techniques brought together to create exciting new flavors and culinary experiences. With brand new enhancements, designed by the timeless Jeffrey Beers International, our restaurant features two distinct dining rooms and among the new and exciting additions to our dramatic yet classic 10,000 sq. ft. space are a sushi bar backed by an open kitchen where Chef Morimoto's signature omakase menus are prepared and Shochu / Sake bar which features Chef Morimoto's own line of shochu,Continued
sake and craft beers.
sake and craft beers.
Foodspotting photosSee all photos
Awards voted by OpenTable diners
- Diners' Choice WinnerMost Booked 1000-Point Tables
Japonais by Morimoto - Best Restaurants in River West ›
Japonais by Morimoto reviews from OpenTable diners
310 reviews since July 3, 2014
- Food4.3Service4.1
- Ambiance4.3Noise LevelModerate
fit for foodies (194)special occasion (164)hot spot (117)romantic (94)good for groups (89)vibrant bar scene (47)great for outdoor dining (40)neighborhood gem (40)notable wine list (35)late-night find (28)scenic view (27)great for lunch (11)kid-friendly (10)great for brunch (1)Show More
- DisappointedOpenTable Diner Since 2005VIPDined on 10/26/2014Don't waste your money. First time here since Morimoto took over and so not worth it. They changed the menu and took off some great staples. Sushi ordinary, at best. Server seemed bored and did not bring us everything we ordered. Bus staff was great - only redeeming part.Special Features:
- Great sushimkhtlVIPDined on 10/25/2014We enjoyed fabulous rolls and sushi. Will definitely come back to try some other offerings. We were there at 10:00pm on a Saturday night - nice - not empty but not crowded either. Pleasant atmosphere.Special Features:
- Fabulous meal!lisade809Dined on 10/25/2014What a wonderful evening. This place truly lives up to it's reputation. My sons ordered the lamb carpaccio, which sounded awful (raw lamb??) but was amazing. The shrimp tempura was different than any I had before, but excellent. The tofu made tableside was a feast for all of the senses. Each of the entrees was excellent, however my son ordered the wagyu surf and turf and we all agreed that was the best of the bunch - fitting as it was his birthday celebration. I would definitely choose this restaurant again, pricey but well worth it.Special Features:
- high expectations not metDB5NotesDined on 10/25/2014My wife and I had a reservation at 6 pm on Saturday night. We were seated in the the isle of the main walk way, while the rest of the seating was only 20% full. Everyone that was seated after us had to walk by us, including the staff, all night long. The interior design was exquisite, it was great to enjoy that atmosphere. Our waiter was sub par. I think I've had better service at a Denny's than what he provided. My to the sushi was marginal, It was very traditional sushi and it was good, don't get me wrong, I just thought that there would be some specialty dishes that would wow us. I felt like I could get the same sushi in any decent sushi restaurant. The sea bass dinner was great though. It was the highlight of the night.Special Features:I would recommend this to a friend.
- An evening with coworkersCheers2youDined on 10/25/2014My son is training to become a chef here. We came out to support him. The staff were fun & knowledgeable about the menu. The food was great! We are planning to return with a larger group to try more menu items. Thank you for a great experience and a new family friendly place to dine.Special Features:I would recommend this to a friend.
- All around amazingAntjonezDined on 10/24/2014Worth the extra buck. We are goodies from Minneapolis, and went to this witow expectations, but we're surprised. Amazing service, food, all around awesome. You won't regret trying this place when in Chicago!Special Features:I would recommend this to a friend.
- Outstanding food,very expensiveFrequentdinerDined on 10/24/2014Sushi/sashimi is very fresh. Pork belly in congee is excellent , so is shrimp tempuraSpecial Features:I would recommend this to a friend.
- The best sushi we've ever had!BaileykissDined on 10/23/2014My boyfriend and I went here on a Thursday night! We had a 9 pm reservation but hung out in the bar/lounge downstairs from about 8 until our table was ready. Great atmosphere in the lounge, excellent energy from the staff. I am a total foodie, my boyfriend likes to tease me of this, but this was honestly the best sushi I've ever had. It's more traditional in style which I love, no crazy maki's covered in mayo. We've both traveled the world and have enjoyed sushi in Asian countries, my boyfriend has even ranked this higher than his sushi experience in Japan! Our recommendation is the yellowtail belly sashimi if they had it on special and the salmon skin maki, but really you can't go wrong with anything you choose. Truly 5 stars!Special Features:I would recommend this to a friend.
- On my radarfoodie2VIPDined on 10/22/2014Japonais has been on my radar for a while. It was the first time for our party of 3. We ordered many items to share. Each selection we tried was marvelous. The waiter picked up empty plates as we devoured. This is one of the best meals that I have enjoyed in a while. We ordered yellow tail and smoked salmon sashimi, assorted sushi, sashimi chef salad, roasted sea bass and angry chicken. Each was excellent! We topped this off with 3 different desserts: cheesecake, Air cheesecake, and the sorbet/gelato/ice cream combination. Japonais has been placed on my favorites list.Special Features:I would recommend this to a friend.
- DiDiVIPDined on 10/19/2014Hostess very sweet and accomodating. Bar Service with Al was great. He is very knowlegeable and enthusiastic! An asset to this restaurant. Presentation of food is lovely. And delicious. I do think the food is a bit pricey, but overall very good.Special Features:I would recommend this to a friend.
- Drinks and makisofiadujourVIPDined on 10/18/2014While we waited over 20 minutes for our reserved table, we enjoyed the lounge downstairs. Fantastic drinks, unique and balanced. Maki are simple but exceptional, barely needing soy sauce. I would go for those 2 in the lounge next time. Food upstairs was OK - not to the Morimoto level I was expecting, our food sounded better than it tasted. Duck duck duck dish had a boring duck soup (could have been any other meat), duck fried rice (again, could have been any other meat and very small amount of it), dry duck thigh, but at least the breast meat was delicious. Not worth $35. Kakuni was good, as was Ishi Yaki Hamachi Bop. Service was ridiculously slow, our server took a while to come around to take our order and wasn't present much afterwards.Special Features:I would recommend this to a friend.
- OpenTable Diner Since 2002VIPDined on 10/18/2014A great bar scene to start - perfect place to begin the evening with a cocktail. Service was fantastic throughout the evening, from the moment we walked in, to the bar, and throughout dinner. As for food, I was very impressed. The uni carbonara was really fantastic. Sushi featured great fish, but it could have been seasoned a little better. Still, it was respectable. Desserts, particularly the coconut fritters, were fantastic. Overall, a terrific dinner.Special Features:
- WondefulKlc102106Dined on 10/18/2014We had a wonderful evening at japonias. The waiter helped us by picking out great sashimi based on our preferences. The shellfish tapan yaki and pork dumplings with bacon foam were amazingSpecial Features:I would recommend this to a friend.
- French-asian fusionEthanaelVIPDined on 10/17/2014We enter here into a fiah master that only select the best quality to create this subtle fusion plate. But not only the food will delight you, the bar is one of the best tried. Ask for the smokey glass and they will literally burn wood on the bar and smoke the glass in front if you. Or better! Ask for the white truffle cocktail that is combine with pear flavor. This will directly make you understand that the barman knows what he s doing and that Violet hours is just a regular place. The only problem here is the usual high level of noise in big restaurant in Midwest.Special Features:I would recommend this to a friend.
- AwesomeSandJDined on 10/15/2014What a great evening. We let our server Michael take us through the menu (5 courses). Everything he chose was beyond what we expected. This was a perfect evening. Definitely will be back!Special Features:
- WowJakeDined on 10/14/2014Food is amazing, great platting .... Just deliciousSpecial Features:I would recommend this to a friend.
- EXCELLENT restaurantLaloDined on 10/13/2014The only thing that I could complaint about was the music. We had reservations at 7pm and towards the end of the night; the music was kind of loud and the restaurant was noisy, I wouldnt expect much noise in a restaurant like this. I picture Japoinas as a quiet, Beautiful, romantic restaurant where the music is low and you don't have to tell at each other to hear you. Overall, I love the food, the staff was great.Special Features:I would recommend this to a friend.
- Hostility includedFlorestanDined on 10/10/2014The food was mostly decent.Not the sushi: might as well have been store bought.As for rest: very good, but not nearly as remarkable as our surly waiter would have us believe.The entire evening, he seemed more concerned with praising the chef than providing us with a pleasant dining experience, berating us while we ordered and up-selling like a use car salesman.One would think he would at least get the order right. But no. He proposed a cold app because the warm app would take time. Warm app was delivered immediately, the wrong cold app followed soon after.The waiter checked in on occasion but walked off before we could answer. A rhetorical question.Food and service far better under previous management. Never again.
- Dont go unless you tip 25%FGY1VIPDined on 10/7/2014Don't go this place unless you plan on tipping a min 25%. After dropping $1200 for a meal and leaving a reasonable 15%, the manager had the audacity to stop me at the exit and grill me fo 15 minutes. I could not believe it! Food was truely iron chef worthy and excellent. I would recommend this to everyone had it not been for the greedy manager. The dinner service was also excellent and i feel bad for the waiter group at this place if they have management like this. My advice, go if you can afford to tip very high. Otherwise, wait for management change.Special Features:
- AverageAverageVIPDined on 10/6/2014Average menu nothing special. The pork kakuni is good but sushi roll and maki roll I feel like I can get it in any restaurant. I wouldn't recommend to a friend. Overpriced.Special Features:
- Last mealOpenTable Diner Since 2014Dined on 10/6/2014I would have duck duck duck as my last meal hands down. Sorry mom. Hiamachi tacos were to die for as well as the dessert.
- Good for Fun Night Out, Not a DateOpenTable Diner Since 2005Dined on 10/4/2014Japonais is trendy, but noisy because it is really a place to be seen rather than eat a nice meal. As many others have noted, your table is almost never ready so the move your downstairs to try and get you to buy drinks in the lounge. Service was good from everyone except the waitress herself. The folks who explain the food are great.Special Features:
- Great ExperienceNapTownFoodieDined on 10/4/2014We had dinner and it definitely did not disappoint. We had 2 sushi rolls that were very good, the hot stone New York Strip that was delicious. The star of our dinner was the Sea Bass -- marvelous. So moist and buttery. Overall, we were very pleased.Special Features:
- Japonais "Rocks"gottago2JaponaisDined on 10/3/2014My husband and I have eaten at Japonais several times and loved it every time. We brought our adult children with us this time. I have raved about the rock appetizer for years; they were blown away as well. Highly recommend Japonais! We loved everything and they even had my favorite champagne by the glass! Japonais is on my "must do" list when o visit Chicago!Special Features:I would recommend this to a friend.
- Great girls night out!DiningDivaDined on 10/3/2014An overall 10! Excellent food! Great ambiance! Beautiful surroundings! We were not rushed and the waiter was cute!Special Features:I would recommend this to a friend.
- Amazing!KHAsaziDined on 9/30/2014We ordered the chef selection, and the waiter, said, great, sit back, relax and will take you on a trip! It absolutely was! An amazing 7 course meal, with favors and hints from around the world!Special Features:
- PresentationOpenTable Diner Since 2012Dined on 9/30/2014Sushi was great. Presentation of food was excellent.Special Features:
- Paying for the Morimoto name...OpenTable Diner Since 2011VIPDined on 9/30/2014I have always had mixed feelings about Japonais. I will say that after not going for two plus years, the food is MUCH better. We had the soft shell crab roll, the wagyu "The Rock" and the duck confit fried rice (my favorite item that was also reasonably priced) everything else on the menu was a bit... underwhelming and overpriced. BUT, as my title says.. I think you pay for the chef name behind the food. The drinks were GREAT.. I had the serenity and the Take Five. Both great options. The Soft shell crab roll was 4-5 large pieces.. and the wagyu beef app was about 7 thin slices of beef.. so if you want to be full by the time you leave, ORDER/PAY more. ;) I might go back for drinks but the food wasn't outstanding by any means. Sorry Chef!Special Features:
- One of my worst dining experiencesOpenTable Diner Since 2006Dined on 9/27/2014My wife and I had high hopes for Japonais but the combination of poor service, mediocre food and not feeling well the entire next day means that we will never go back. As soon as we arrived for our 8:30 reservation we were told to go down to the blue bar downstairs since our table wasn't ready yet. After waiting another 10 minutes we were finally seated at a table outside. Realizing that the restaurant was busy we were initially satisfied with our temporary seating, then 10 minutes went by, then another, then another and still no wait staff to take our drink order. After 30 minutes of waiting we finally got a drink and were shown our table inside. To make a long story shorter, the food was mediocre (except the shrimp appetizer )
- OpenTable Diner Since 2011Dined on 9/26/2014Made a reservation and still waited over 30 mins for my table. Not funSpecial Features:
- Great food, questionable seatingChowindown67Dined on 9/26/2014Everything was perfect except for the obnoxious couple next to us. With a reservation I figured I would of had a better table but we didn't. I'm not a fan of the shared bench seating, but other than that it was a wonderful evening.Special Features:I would recommend this to a friend.
- OpenTable Diner Since 2011Dined on 9/26/2014It's really a shame. This used to be one of my favorite spots in the city, but, now the service is so bad I will never go back.Special Features:
- Loved itOpenTable Diner Since 2009Dined on 9/25/2014Had a great waiter who helped us with our selection of both cocktails and food. Awesome food and we had a blast.Special Features:
- Pinnacle of Dining ExperiencesaltumaxDined on 9/24/2014I went to a lot of places on my business trip into Chicago - a lot of well-reviewed, highly-rated, fine-dining establishments. Japonais by Morimoto was unquestionably the very best of all these. The food was incredible, the service was unbelievably professional and accommodating, and the entire experience will never be forgotten. We brought a group of 5 and ordered a great variety of appetizer, entree, and sushi dishes - not a single one that didn't taste incredible, with striking presentation and wonderful instruction from the waitstaff. The sushi was the freshest I've ever had, the appetizers were striking and cutting edge, and the entrees were perfectly executed! I would definitely travel back to Chicago just to eat here again!!Special Features:
- Poor AssumptionoperabuffaVIPDined on 9/21/2014Although I am not as traveled as many with food I am fair well experienced and have lived in several countries know for their food culture. Also I tend never to write anything negative but the server truly took away from the experience. When I go to a new sushi restaurant I truly like to let the experience unfold so I normally get Omakase neither the chef nor the server made me feel confident about put my experience in their hands so I ordered a la carte. The server was not happy with this! I have been going to sushi restaurants all my life, from holes in the walls to 5 stars, and this is the first time I have felt like a lower class for ordering in waves. Plan to go to the philly morimoto but never Chicago again.Special Features:I would recommend this to a friend.
- Pleasantly surprised!OpenTable Diner Since 2006Dined on 9/21/2014We were all pleasantly surprised with the entire experience at Japonais. Sometimes the service and the food at most celebrity chef restaurants are over priced and over rated. Not this time! The two dishes that stood out for us was the oysters with foie gras and the mango pudding dessert. Delicious!Special Features:
- Pleasently surprisedchicagolovesfoodVIPDined on 9/20/2014I had heard so much about Japonais since moving to Chicago, but finally (after 4 years!) tried it out. Our table wasn't ready, so they pointed us to the Blue Room to order drinks. Since we're going non-alcoholic for the month of September, I told the bar keeper and he told us about the Uzu lemonade and then said he'd concoct something for us -- well, he concocted correctly because he did a mocktail version of their St Thomas and if anyone knows me, they know I love cucumber. After a longer wait (35 minutes) our table was ready. We had a great server who went through the menu with us. We ended up ordering the tuna tartare, 3 maki rolls and Morimoto cheesecake and it was more than enough. Next time, we'll ask to sit at the sushi bar.Special Features:
- Absolutely great!DdinerDined on 9/20/2014Japonais was everything we were hoping it would be. The staff was very informative and helpful. The restauant was beautiful. The food was excellent. We tried a number of dishes and shared them all and each one was more than we expected. Thank you for a fabulous evening.Special Features:I would recommend this to a friend.
- Service was horribleCourtney12VIPDined on 9/20/2014I got there early and had a drink downstairs which was great. The bartender was awesome. Our reservation was for 7:30pm and we didn't sit till 8:15pm. Group of 7. Our waiter took our order for 2 bottles of wine and it took about 15 minutes for those to come. They don't keep the wine at the table, so the waiter should check often to see if he needs to fill up the glasses. Twice we were dry for a long time before he came to fill them up. We ordered 2 more bottles and those took just as long to get as the first. The food was very good, but our waiter was horrible. At the end we asked for the manager and all he did was give us each a card with his name written on it saying please come back for "VIP" service. No thanks.Special Features:
- Only one complaint!HillaryQuinnDined on 9/20/2014This was our second time at Japonais, first time since Morimoto has arrived. We loved the food, had a great experience - even loved waiting in the bar before hand by a very friendly and talented bartender. Our only damper on the night came when our waiter treated us like we weren't worth his time. I can only guess it is because we are in our early/mid 20s. I don't know maybe he thought we wouldn't spend much? Or know much? But he gave the table next to ours a much different reception- including a whole introductory thing about the rebrand with morimoto. He was also visibly annoyed that we ordered a sushi roll for our "desert" after our meal. I understand that is out of the normal order but we told him sorry and very kindly to take his time.Special Features:I would recommend this to a friend.

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Definitions for candidˈkæn dɪd
This page provides all possible meanings and translations of the word candid
Random House Webster's College Dictionary
can•did*ˈkæn dɪd(adj.)
frank; outspoken; open and sincere:
a candid critic.
free from reservation, disguise, or subterfuge; straightforward:
a candid opinion.
informal; unposed:
a candid photo.
honest; impartial:
a candid mind.
(n.)an unposed photograph.
* Syn: See frank1.
Origin of candid:
1620–30; (< F candide) < L candidus shining white
Princeton's WordNet
blunt, candid, forthright, frank, free-spoken, outspoken, plainspoken, point-blank, straight-from-the-shoulder(adj)
characterized by directness in manner or speech; without subtlety or evasion
"blunt talking and straight shooting"; "a blunt New England farmer"; "I gave them my candid opinion"; "forthright criticism"; "a forthright approach to the problem"; "tell me what you think--and you may just as well be frank"; "it is possible to be outspoken without being rude"; "plainspoken and to the point"; "a point-blank accusation"
informal or natural; especially caught off guard or unprepared
"a candid photograph"; "a candid interview"
candid, open, heart-to-heart(adj)
openly straightforward and direct without reserve or secretiveness
"his candid eyes"; "an open and trusting nature"; "a heart-to-heart talk"
Kernerman English Learner's Dictionary
candid(adjective)ˈkæn dɪd
speaking completely truthfully
candid remarks; as candid as possible
A spontaneous or unposed photograph.
His portraits looked stiff and formal but his candids showed life being lived.
Impartial and free from prejudice.
he knew not where to look for faithful advice, efficient aid, or candid judgement. u2014 Washington Irving u2014 The Life and Voyages of Christopher Columbus
Straightforward, open and sincere.
My candid opinion was that it was all rubbish! u2014 Jules Verne u2014 A Journey To The Center Of The Earth
Not posed or rehearsed.
will the introduction of supplementary flash or flood intrude on a candid picture situation or ruin the mood? u2014 Popular Photography (2002)
Origin: From candidus.
Webster Dictionary
free from undue bias; disposed to think and judge according to truth and justice, or without partiality or prejudice; fair; just; impartial; as, a candid opinion
open; frank; ingenuous; outspoken
Translations for candid
Kernerman English Multilingual Dictionary
saying just what one thinks, without hiding anything
Do you like my hairstyle? Be candid.
- eerlikAfrikaans
- صَريحArabic
- откровенBulgarian
- sinceroPortuguese (BR)
- upřímnýCzech
- aufrichtigGerman
- ærlig; oprigtigDanish
- ειλικρινήςGreek
- franco, sincero, cándidoSpanish
- siirasEstonian
- رک؛ بی رودربایستیFarsi
- suoraFinnish
- sincèreFrench
- גְלוּי לֵבHebrew
- दोटूक, स्पष्टवादीHindi
- iskren, otvorenCroatian
- őszinteHungarian
- jujurIndonesian
- einlægur, hreinskilinnIcelandic
- sinceroItalian
- 率直なJapanese
- 솔직한Korean
- atvirasLithuanian
- atklāts; vaļsirdīgsLatvian
- berterus terangMalay
- openhartigDutch
- oppriktig,åpenNorwegian
- szczeryPolish
- رک؛ بی رودربایستیPersian
- ميمى، په زړه سپېڅلى، بې رياPashto
- sinceroPortuguese
- sincerRomanian
- искреннийRussian
- úprimnýSlovak
- iskrenSlovenian
- poštenSerbian
- uppriktig, frispråkigSwedish
- ที่ตรงไปตรงมาThai
- içten, samimîTurkish
- 坦率的Chinese (Trad.)
- відвертий, щирийUkrainian
- بے لاگ ، صاف گوUrdu
- bộc trựcVietnamese
- 坦率的Chinese (Simp.)
Get even more translations for candid »
Find a translation for the candid definition in other languages:
Select another language:
Discuss these candid definitions with the community:
Use the citation below to add this definition to your bibliography:
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A Rumpole Christmas
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Rumpole's slimmed-down Christmas
Rumpole and the boy
Rumpole and the old familiar faces
Rumpole and the Christmas break
Mystery fiction
Christmas stories, English
Detective and mystery stories, English
Rumpole, Horace (Fictitious character)
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Five holiday tales feature the curmudgeon barrister Rumpole.
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Montana Boyhood Memoir Presented at Albion College English Dept. Event (-)
With his powerful memoir of family and struggle in the American West, ooet and author Joe Wilkins visits Albion College as the Great Lakes Colleges Association (GLCA) New Writer Award winner. Wilkins reads from "The Mountain and the Fathers" on Monday, October 20, at 5 p.m. in the Bobbitt Visual Arts Center.
"The Mountain and the Fathers" recounts Wilkins' upbringing in southeastern Montana, in a rural community hit hard by a drought. Raised by his mother and grandfather, Wilkins uses his own experience of fatherlessness to explore the struggles faced by many young men in his community, seeking to define their identities as men in a difficult and changing society.
Wilkins also won a 2012 Montana Book Award for "Mountain and Fathers." He is the author of two poetry collections, "Killing the Murnion Dogs" and "Notes from the Journey Westward," and has won the White Pine Press Poetry Prize and the High Plains Book Award. His work has appeared in many magazines and journals, and has also been anthologized in Best American Magazine Writing, Best New Poets 2006 and many others. Wilkins earned his MFA in creative writing from the University of Idaho and he currently teaches at Linfield College.
A reception and book signing will immediately follow the reading. For more information, please contact the English Department at 517-629-0232.
Math Study Tables (Mon. 20 Oct, 2014 8:00 pm - 10:00 pm)
Tutoring and study support for introductory Mathematics courses, located in Palenske Hall, rooms 223, 225 and 227.


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Town Square
M-A Boy's Varsity Lacrosse
Original post made by Wendy Rohn, Menlo-Atherton High School, on Apr 24, 2010
Saturday morning the Bears defeated the Woodside Priory Panthgers, 21-6. Leading scorers for M-A were Tommy Cummings and Pierce Osgood with 4 apiece. Zander Rohn, Ben Burnett, Jai Vaswani and John Athens each had a pair and Alex Fioretti, Hassan Saad, Alec VanStone and Adam Sklarin each had a single. Chase Connell, did a great job as goalie.
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I hope this bill includes all the "extras" under the plan
Submitted by ralph hornsby on Sun, 03/24/2013 - 23:31. Permalink
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Updated: 01/15/2013 7:31 AM
Created: 01/07/2013 12:20 PM KSTP.com
By: Mark Albert
With a bottle of bubbly and cheers from the crowd, the US Navy christened its newest submarine in October 2012.
When it's commissioned in summer 2013, the sub will be known as the USS Minnesota.
Now, we can show you an exclusive look at the submarine as it's being finished, inside and out.
5 EYEWITNESS NEWS reporter Mark Albert and photojournalist Chad Nelson traveled recently to the shipyard in Newport News, Virginia, to introduce us to our home-state sailors on the Minnesota.
Watch our story above to meet the Minnesota natives on the crew.
Click here to watch video taken inside the USS Minnesota by Huntington Ingalls Industries.
Click here to watch an interview with 18 year-old Jakob Bartels, of Roseville, who beat 110 other high school students from 33 schools in designing the official logo of the USS Minnesota.
Click here to watch an interview with the president of the Twin Cities Council of the Navy League of the United States, an organization trying to raise money for commissioning gifts for the crew, the Chairman's Reception, the collectible publication, and more.
Click here to learn more about the USS Minnesota.
Click here to learn more about US Navy attack submarines.
|More Than 2 Million License Plates Scanned at Mall Of America in Past 90 Days
|School Worker Tried to Stop Washington State High School Shooting
|Changes to Coon Rapids Cemetery Upset Some Bereaved Loved Ones
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Discussion in 'Politics' started by VaYank5150, Nov 7, 2009.
....with only 1 Republican vote..
220 yes votes, 215 no votes.
Who was the Republican?
... and jinx!
The next one to get fired.
fuckin a right.
Healthcare Reform - Salon.com
The Republican was Joseph Cao of La. and not what you would call a ringing endorsement for this legislation and tends to send a signal that Senate passage might be a bit harder than suspected.
yeah other purposes, to help convert the country to socialism.
Waxman always reminds me of Nosferatu.
Weimar era vampire film?
Commodities are now human rights.
Looks like the GOP has a winning issue for 2010 and 2012.
Since when is 26 years old a "child"?
Oh, never mind, it's the government, they want all of us to see them as our mommy.
I am shocked that Sarah Palin's FaceBook rants could not derail this legislation....
Jesus christ. now my cousin won't have to get a fucking job. he can just live at home until he's 27.
Sounds like your family is a bunch of lazy fucks....
Humans are now mere budget items.
Separate names with a comma.


text:
Arizona Cardinals
Warner on Lindley: 'I've liked what I've seen'
The Arizona Cardinals have been desperately trying to find consistency at quarterback all season.
After starting the season with John Skelton under center, injuries and a general lack of productivity at the position leaves the Cardinals still searching for answers in Week 13.
The latest gunslinger getting an opportunity is rookie Ryan Lindley.
In his first start last week against the St. Louis Rams, Lindley impressed former Cardinals quarterback and current NFL analyst Kurt Warner.
"I've liked what I've seen," Warner said. "I think he has done some really good things. I saw him make some really nice reads and throws down the field."
Warner especially liked what he saw out of the rookie early in Sunday's 31-17 loss.
"I saw some upside," Warner said. "Early on, the drives he put together, the accuracy, the decisions, I thought were really good."
Lindley threw for 312 and completed 59.6 percent of his pass, but he also threw four interceptions.
"I think you saw some rookie things come up as the game got away from the Cardinals a little bit," Warner said. "He started pressing a little bit and made some mistakes in the game."
Despite some rookie mistakes, Warner is confident in the former San Diego State Aztec's potential.
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Cardinals Audio
- Wolf's Film Room - Thursday October 23Wolf gives his defensive game plan for the Cardinals against Philadelphia's offense.
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Police: Teen cited after drinking party in PittsfieldJune 17,2013Police: Teen cited after party
RUTLAND A local teenager was cited for possession of marijuana after police raided an alleged underage drinking party on Upper Michigan Road in Pittsfield on Saturday around 1 a.m., according to Sgt. Thomas Mozzer of the Vermont State Police.
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Obituary – Eugene Michael "Gene" Haberer
HARTINGTON — Eugene Michael "Gene" Haberer, 58, Hartington, died Oct. 9, 2014, at his residence after a brief battle with cancer. Visitation and a Vigil Service were Sunday at Holy Trinity Catholic Church, Hartington, and continued one hour prior to services Monday at the church. Mass of Christian Burial was Oct. 13 at the Holy Trinity Catholic Church, Hartington,


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Ukrainian Legislature Eggings Preferable To Sitting Through Anything Involving Tom Coburn
In case you have not yet seen this video of irate Ukrainian legislators tossing eggs, tomatoes, and smoke bombs at each other in a dispute over allowing Russia to continue using Black Sea port, by all means do watch: It is certainly more exciting than listening to a bunch of Senators use bad words. It may seem shocking and unparliamentary until you consider the fact that the lawmakers already had umbrellas on hand in the chamber. This is probably just the way they do things on Tuesdays.
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Call me when they're tossing Faberge eggs.
…What was up with that Atari-Era Vector-Graphic display that went off at 0:18?
BEST THING EVER. Right?
…and then it hit me. It's the Egg-Pong Scoreboard. Clearly, dudes in the back row for the win!
On the Today Show, they said it was Russia. Pitiful. And then Al considered whether the Dandy in his troupe should always carry an umbrella, too.
(A couple of 'em were speaking in Russian, though.)
This is really going to set the record straight for all those who still think Ukrainians (or even Russians, god forfend) are just a bunch of thugs.
So proud of my country, you guys…
Indeed! Who says Latin America has the monopoly on fieriness?
I was afraid a soccer match might break out.
Bringing umbrellas doesn't seem as weird to me as someone bringing eggs and a smoke bomb(???). Was that blue / yellow tarp somehow participatory in making that smoke? More entertaining than Korean legislature fights though.
Hey, U.S. Senate, looks like somebody is coming for your "world's greatest deliberative body" title…


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Leanring experience, create co-workers, excellent senior bankers and management, hands-on
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Know tha you want to pursue advisory investment banking, make sure you like the people, pursue it out of genuine intellectual interest
The company is growing very fast (which is great), perhaps be more proactive in dealing with how those growing pains affect employees (space, IT, research, etc.)
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