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Chuck Pratt: Past 50 and No Falls
Chuck Pratt and John Martin Meek in the Dornan's parking lot in Jackson Hole probably in the summer of 2000.
CHUCK PRATT: Past 50 and No Falls
An Odyssey With One of
By John Martin Meek
(This article originally was written in 1991 after submitting the idea to Michael Kennedy at Climbing Magazine. But, because I could not locate Chuck to get his approval, it was never sent to Climbing. Anyone who does not understand why I wanted his approval did not really know Chuck Pratt.)
Back in the 70s when John Denver ruled over the pop music charts, Taffy Danoff, who co-wrote Take Me Home, Country Roads with John and her former husband, Bill, wore a tee‑shirt emblazoned with I KNOW JOHN DENVER.
I know Chuck Pratt, but not for the winning ticket in the
I know Chuck Pratt, as do countless others who have been fortunate enough to have him as a climbing guide/instructor at Exum Mountain Guides in the
And I well remember our first meeting.
It was sometime in the 70s when my former wife and our son, Jamie, and I used to spend the last two weeks of August at the Flying V dude ranch on the Gros Ventre River northeast of Jackson.
The Flying V was known more for its library than its bar (which didn't even exist), and there I found a brochure on Exum.
I knew instantly it was something I wanted to do. Only years later after I was hooked on climbing would I trace it back to when I was seven years old and living in Granite, Oklahoma.
The back yard of our house in Granite was the
With Janeen Christy, the "tomboy" girl who lived next door and my sister, Louise, we would play "Cowboys and Indians" at the base of the mountain. My incentive to climb higher and higher was to throw my broomstick horse up on a rock above me, believing I had to rescue him by climbing to that point.
So, after reading the Exum brochure, I called to enroll in the one-day basic school.
Our guide that day was Bill Briggs, whose main claim to fame was being the first person to ski from the summit to the base of the
Brigger, as he is known in
A few days later as the intermediate class assembled in front of the Exum office near
Judging from the laudatory speech I was hearing about our guide for the intermediate lesson, I was expecting no less than a towering Sir Edmund Hillary or Clint Eastwood from The Eiger Sanction.
Instead, standing off to one side clearly embarrassed by the introduction was a small man, 5‑6 or so, bearded, with a well worn pair of wool knickers, a cheap poly‑cotton turtleneck, and a wool ski hat.
Remembering some of the hyperbole of the introduction, I do not recall that Chuck Pratt did the first ascent of the Salathe Wall route on El Cap with Tom Frost and Royal Robbins or anything else about the "demigod" climbers of
What I do remember is this: the man said that in climbing Chuck Pratt never wasted a single motion. Every move he made was toward his objective. And with all due respect to all the other fine climbers I've had the honor to be roped up with, no single statement has guided my own climbing efforts more since hearing those words that day.
I know Chuck Pratt, and I think I understood him as well from the beginning as I understand him today.
He was an intellectual as are many climbers, especially those of the old school. He was a lover of classical music, a bottle of beer after a day's climb, and more than anything else just being left alone.
From Pat Ament in the anthology, Mirrors in the Cliffs:
Descriptions of Pratt: a "tragic figure..." or "...born in the wrong time...," yet no climber is more respected or liked in
The son of a dramatics teacher, Chuck grew up in the Bellingham, Washington, area and began, at a little older age, playing around on the rocks just as I had in faraway Granite, Oklahoma.
Did Service in the Army
Ironically, Chuck in the early 60s served in the Army at one point and was stationed at
This I did not learn from one day of Exum's intermediate school with Chuck, but from our friendship in the years since.
On that trip I did invite Chuck to be our guest for dinner at the Flying V. He instantly felt at ease with Reed, my wife, a beautiful Smithie who can talk at least three hours to anyone about anything.
When I returned to
It was only then that I discovered what a celebrity Chuck Pratt was in the rock-climbing world. Interestingly, and I'll put money on it, with the exception of The Vertical World of Yosemite, almost every photo in every book is taken from behind and below Chuck showing only his backside.
It's no wonder that while Yosemite greats such as Yvon Chouinard and Royal Robbins have become rich and famous outfitting yuppies with overpriced urban outdoor fashions, the world knows only what Chuck Pratt's backside looks like.
And, nobody likes that more than Chuck Pratt. He personally would like to take every camera ever pointed at him and throw it into some glacial crevasse, but for the fact he hates cold so much he would not trudge over the snow to do it himself.
From Royal Robbins in the anthology, The Vertical World of
When Chuck said he wouldn't go (on the Tis-sa-ack climb of Half Dome) I was almost relieved. At least now he couldn't make me feel like I was dirtying the pants of American Mountaineering. I feel guilty with a camera when Pratt is on the rope.
There is, however, a little mystery here. In spite of his almost obsessive avoidance of photos and publicity, Chuck Pratt is recognized by other climbers. Especially over the years around Devil's Tower, college students and other climbers have come up to me at the Tower and in local bars near there and said, "Isn't that guy with you Chuck Pratt?" Don't ask me how they know, but they know.
Time passed and each year we returned to
In 1979, during our annual vacation in
My goal for a birthday celebration that year was to climb the Grand ‑‑ the usual climax to a beginner's week at the
I scheduled the climb at the end of the vacation to be better acclimated, took the Exum intermediate class again (a requirement), and ran six miles a day on the hills of the
Our group for the climb was large and divided into two parties including a physician even older than I was but who had climbed the Grand before. Our guides were Bill Briggs and Don Mosman. Don led treks in
The first-day, 11‑mile hike from the Lupine Meadows to the Exum hut on the lower saddle below the Grand has been written about many times. But any way you cut it ‑‑ young, in great shape, or otherwise ‑‑ it is a pain in the ass. Carrying a pack ever upward through miles of scree and boulders the size of boxcars is not my idea of fun.
That evening as we settled into our sleeping bags wall to wall in the Exum hut, Bill and Don decided that I, as the weakest of the eight‑member group, would leave early with Brigger at around 3 a.m. so I would not be a bothersome straggler.
Of particular concern was the weather, always a major worry to even the most experienced climbers. Chuck Pratt once put it succinctly: "Clouds in the mountains mean death."
Amateurish and a little arrogant, I personally was not worried about the weather. Having done a little sailing, I remembered the old saying, "Red sky at night, sailor's delight."
The night before I had mounted my camera in the yard of the Flying V, which had the perfect view of the Tetons and the Grand. I took a photo of the mountains bathed in red light, with a cloud plume rising from the Grand as it were on fire. To be outrageously immodest, I still think it is one of the best photos I have ever seen of the most photographed mountain in
But, standing outside the Exum hut on the lower saddle and looking up at the Grand's massive red prominence, my apprehensions that evening were not about the weather.
It was reminiscent of the night my unit of the 1st Marine Division moved to the front during the Korean War. Some of the self-doubts about my own character and will again emerged. Do I have the skills? Will I have the stamina? (During the Korean War, I had lost almost 50 percent of both lungs.) Tomorrow, with my party, will I get to some point up there and not be able to go on ‑‑ thus ruining the trip for the others?
But, unlike the many thousands who have climbed the Grand, most probably do not spend their first hours on the lower saddle the way we did.
Even allowing for my slow progress, we had arrived at the Exum hut around 5 p.m. with lots of daylight left for head calls, taking pictures and worrying about how we would do on the second day of the climb.
Marylander Dies on the Grand
Early that morning while waiting to start off from Lupine Meadows, I had heard the sounds of a helicopter somewhere in our area.
Having served as a medical corpsman with the Marines during the Korean War, the sound of a chopper will forever be a signal of trouble to me. And so it was on that day.
Two young guys who had spent the summer working at nearby
Interestingly, there is only one rappel necessary for a quick descent from the Grand's summit. But somehow they felt trapped and moved no farther toward the protection of the lower saddle.
They also had made no preparations for bad weather, likelihood on red sky nights or otherwise. Caught in rain and snow, Don DeMuro, 22, of
As we arrived at the lower saddle, we could see the rangers carrying the body bag high above us on the route we would be taking early the next morning. At the same time, from down in
Instinctively, as had happened many times in
And, there was another problem. Who should be lying in a sleeping bag in front of the Exum hut but Chuck Pratt.
"Yo, Chuck, what's the problem?"
"I had a group on the Grand today and I got sick," Chuck said. "I'm really sick. You got anything for pain?"
"One of the guys with us is a doctor. I'll get him."
I found the doctor and he kneeled over Chuck, listening to his symptoms. But, as I've found in several situations since then, doctors are not too interested in getting involved while on vacation.
Afterwards I went over to Chuck and asked if the doctor had helped. The answer was, "No."
"Look," I said, "I've got a bottle of Valium prescribed for my back problem. They may not kill pain but they'll make you happy while you suffer." And I gave him several.
In the meantime, Chuck's buddies from Exum had convinced the chopper pilot he would be better off if he put Chuck on with DeMuro's body to balance the aircraft. So Chuck got aboard and I didn't see him again until the next summer.
Between our August trips to
When we returned to
It was on Guide's Wall (5.8 to 5.9) that I learned that the mostly silent, laid‑back Chuck Pratt never forgave the loss of hardware on a climb.
With Chuck leading, naturally, we were on the third pitch when he instructed me on removing the chock he was putting in for protection.
Climbing to that point, I was breathing hard and hanging by my nails while reaching out with my left hand to retrieve the chock. Not being Ron Kauk or John Long, this was not exactly the most fun situation of my life. But, as instructed I gently pulled up and out. The chock did not budge. Sweating a quart, I pushed it in, jiggled, prayed. It moved not a millimeter.
"Yo, Chuck, the chock is stuck."
He told me to bring the sling and biner and keep climbing.
At the top of the pitch, I tied in while Chuck down-climbed to the chock. The chock showed no respect to Pratt and did not budge for him, either. He came back.
Two guys following us on the route had a pick and tried to extract the chock. No luck.
Someday I will climb Guide's Wall again, to see if the chock is still there. In the meantime, I got a lecture from Chuck about the stupidity of losing hardware.
That night I drove into
During those summers we always invited Chuck across the valley to the Flying V for one of the ranch's home-cooked meals.
After dinner, we would build a campfire among the tall pines in the ranch yard and be joined by Becky and her husband, Roy, owners of the Flying V, and other guests for talk and "OP," (other people's) beer.
At some point I would bring out my guitar and we would sing whatever I could play, including a song I wrote about
Oh, I'm gettin' high on
But I've got to let my dreamin' do it all
Until I get back there, to be with my old friends
While the days of city summers turn to fall.
Once, when I invited Chuck for dinner, he said he would come prepared to do his juggling act. But after several beers and a little nudging at the campfire, he apparently could never bring himself to such exhibitionism even before a few Roy and Becky Chambers and a few half-smashed Eastern dudes.
From Pat Ament in Mirrors in the Cliff:
"I'm tired of being social director of Camp 4," I hear Pratt say to someone pestering him for information. I see Pratt juggling wine bottles at Church Bowl, the clearing east of the lodge.
In the summer of 1982, my wife told me she wanted a divorce and I also left the company where I had headed the
On a business trip to
Chuck's trip from
His routine usually included driving across
Chuck would spend a couple of weeks enjoying the enormous splendor and wildlife of the park during its short and beautiful fall.
Later he would swing through the nearby Black Hills, and wind his way through the
For the 1981 climb, we met for dinner at a nice roadhouse south of the Tower. There, over steaks and OP beer (mine), we planned the next day's climb on the Durrance route (5.6). The Durrance, along with the Exum route on the Grand, are two of the climbs described in Steve Roper and Allen Steck's Fifty Classic Climbs of
The next morning, Sunday, I drove from my motel in Hulett to the Tower park. It was early and it was cold, two of Chuck Pratt's most unfavorite conditions.
He stood shivering at the tailgate of the Chuckmobile wearing a parka with the greatest loft I have ever seen, at least five inches, while I was quite comfortable in an old pile jacket.
"Look," said Chuck, "I've been here two weeks and there's been nobody climbing. Let's go into Hulett and have a good breakfast."
I was apprehensive. Here I was, not having climbed much in more than a year, looking at this monstrous rock pointing 1,267 feet straight up from our spot in the park. More self-doubt.
I'm thinking, Can I climb this son-if-a-bitch today even if we start right now? But, Chuck knew me and I knew Chuck, so against my better judgment I said, "Okay, let's go to Hulett."
Stuffed with ham, hotcakes and coffee, Chuck and I arrived at the Tower visitor center about 10 a.m. By then it was hot and getting hotter, a little Indian summer as September eased into October.
Chuck took his time getting gear together while I sweated the heat and the awesome monolith, even more imposing from that viewpoint.
Eventually we walked up the path and then began the bouldering that leads to the Tower's base.
Neither Chuck nor I had paid any attention to the number of cars in the visitor center lot. Many people come up just for the view and a walk around the Tower's base.
But, as we arrived that day at the bottom of the first pitch of the Durrance, we were greeted by the immediate climbing world.
Apparently signaled by reports of unusually warm weather for Northeastern Wyoming, the Tower looked like an
Noon came and went and still we waited. Finally, it came our turn in line and I tied into the anchor to belay Chuck's lead on the first pitch, Leaning Column, 80 feet of 60-million-year-old nearly vertical molten magma.
At the top of the pitch Chuck had to wait again for the group ahead of us to move on while I continued to stand sweat‑soaked waiting to be belayed.
In spite of my amateurish skills and lack of recent climbing experience, along with Chuck's occasional encouragement, I did okay.
The second pitch of the Durrance to me is easily the most awesome from below, 72 feet of hugging one of the monolithic columns called the Durrance Crack.
But, it is the third pitch that is the bitch. Not for nothing is it known as Cussing Crack.
Leading the climb requires a start in a chimney. Above the chimney the route changes, but seemingly is as difficult. It is not a pitch anyone I have seen does in a zip.
By mid‑afternoon, Chuck and I had progressed only about half way up the Tower.
Below us were four guys who had driven straight through overnight from
Chuck and I looked up and we looked down. In about three hours the sun would be setting behind the hills to the west and it would be dark. While it was still scorching then, it also would be cold after sundown.
"What do you think?" Chuck asked.
"I like you, Chuck," I said, "but I like me better, and I don't see myself rappelling more than 1,200 feet off the Tower in the dark."
So, we let the
Back at the car, it was payback time for the lost chock on Guide's Wall.
"Now what was it you said when I came out early this morning, Chuck? Been here two weeks and no climbers?
"Do you know how fucking boring it is to drive all the way here from
We laughed and headed for the roadhouse. It was Miller Time.
Back to 1982. When Phil and I drove up from
Pigeons Bedevil Devil's Tower
Sitting that night at the bar of our favorite saloon, along with some locals, an older cowboy observed Phil drinking a Miller Lite.
"You know, son," the old cowboy said, "That light beer you're drinking reminds me of making love on the shore of a lake."
Phil bit. "How's that, Sir?"
"Well, as I see it," the cowboy said, "It's fucking near water."
The next day was clear, pleasantly warm, and the snow was melting.
This time we did not have much company on the Durrance route, though there were other climbers on the Tower.
The problem was that the dust at the bottom of every pitch had been turned to a sandy red mud by the melting snow, and pigeon shit was everywhere. More than once while on the most difficult moves, pigeons would suddenly explode from some hidden place right into our faces. We were even buzzed by a flight of Air Force jets. But we polished it off in good time.
While Chuck roamed around through the tall dead grass and small boulders on the top of the Tower, I unscrewed the top of the register.
Somewhere, thousands of miles to the East, a young man long gone from home would be drinking wine with his girlfriend in
In the register I wrote a note to him, "To my son, David, best wishes on his birthday today, October 2, 1982." Then we rapped down and joined Phil, waiting for us at the base.
"Hey," said Phil, "you guys have fans."
Chuck didn't want fans. I said, "Like who?"
"Like all those road construction people we saw in the bar last night," Phil said.
When Phil and I had met Chuck at the Tower after our drive from
Most were 40 to 50, some with wives, and in conversation we learned they had come to work on the Tower entrance enhancement project from all over the Northwestern states.
Over beers they told us what they were doing and, since we looked different, wanted to know why we were there. When we said, "To climb the Tower," a good bit of disbelief made its way around the bar.
"Yeah," said Phil, "About 3:30 when they knocked off work they all came over here. The road down there was solid with people parked watching you guys with binoculars."
The reason I hadn't noticed the "fans" was that the next to the last pitch, Chockstone Crack, is another chimney. At 6-3 and 200 pounds, I don't do chimneys well.
Call it a cave, not a chimney. It was dark, wet, muddy and spotted with pigeon slick gray and white pigeon shit. I was trying to stem, but it wasn't working because of the crud on my old Vasque boots.
Chuck never drinks water on a one‑day climb. He likes to wait for Miller Time, and it was getting near.
"Okay, John, you've been screwing around down there long enough," Chuck yelled. "Get your ass moving."
Mud, pigeon shit and all, I shot up the chimney like a rocket. I know Chuck Pratt, and I had never heard him yell at anybody.
What a day! While Chuck stowed the gear in the Chuckmobile back in the visitor center lot, I got my guitar out of Phil's truck and picked through a song I wrote about
There is no other place like
That is so grand from the mountains to the plains
Where the snow‑covered peaks of the Tetons
Reach as high as the rainbow when it rains
Where the wild flowers bloom in the sagebrush
While cattle on the green grass graze
With rivers clear and sparkling as diamonds
There is beauty in a thousand different ways.
Off we went to the saloon outside the park. When we walked in, the place broke up with the road gang yelling and cheering us.
Pratt Gets Embarrassed, We Get Free Beers
"Hey," said one old dude, "we never thought you guys could do it!"
Chuck, who probably has climbed the hardest Tower routes a hundred times, was embarrassed. I was flattered and we all enjoyed the OP beers the road gang bought us.
Royal Robbins on climbing the North America Wall in The Vertical World of
Chuck led the overhang. He pitoned up one side of it and followed a horizontal dike of aplite around the top. Fascinated, we watched the lower part of Chuck's body move sideways thirty feet across our line of vision. Pitonage was very difficult, and Chuck's hauling line hung far out from the wall. When all cracks stopped, he ended the pitch and belayed in slings, thus finishing the most spectacular lead in American climbing.
The next morning, Phil and I left for
In the summer of 1983, I joined with Jim Hartz, former host with Barbara Walters of NBC‑TV's The Today Show, to form a new communications company.
One of our first clients was ATC, Time, Inc.'s cable TV system, and we flew to
When Jim had been hosting the Today Show in 1976, the
Bicentennial Celebration year, the program had originated from all 50 states, but he had never been to
Since we had a rented station wagon and carrying our own video camera equipment, we decided to make the 10‑hour drive from
After a few OPs around the campfire at the Flying V one night, Hartz asked Chuck if we could take our video camera and go with him and his Exum class the next day. Jim also wanted to interview Chuck at his cabin across the valley.
Chuck reluctantly agreed so we shot him the next day guiding a basic class in
Chuck Pratt does not do anything half‑assed, and he gave Hartz and his hated video camera a good show. He was instructive, of course, but also interesting and often funny. He was a man who loved his work, building confidence and hooking new climbers for the sport just as he and Bill Briggs had hooked me.
That was the summer Chuck had something going with Jane Gillie, an Exum staffer. Late the same afternoon with a case of OP beer, the first entertainment expense for our new company, Hartz and I set up the camera in front of Chuck sitting on a stump outside the log cabin he was then building. Jane and I sat on the cabin doorstep to see how two great professionals would handle this situation.
At that point in Jim Hartz' career as one of the top on‑camera journalists during 15 years at NBC‑TV, he had interviewed hundreds of newsmakers the world over. But in 1983 Jim was more interested in producing good television than being on it.
If he were watching the Pratt interview today, I believe Jim would agree it was one of the toughest of his career.
From Pat Ament in Mirrors in the Cliffs:
His (Chuck's) silence, for some, throws a sullen cloud over his disposition. But he is truly modest.
With Jim gently probing, Chuck traced his career from the beginning of bouldering alone ("all the other kids were playing basketball or football") at the age of 12 or 13 while growing up in
Chuck did not discuss his college days except to say he dropped out, nor did he mention the military service.
Even more reluctantly would he answer Jim's questions about the
Chuck warmly acknowledged that Warren Harding had been the most immediate influence in that particular group of people when he started climbing.
"We were considered outlaws in
"He (Harding) was an extreme individual even in a collection of individuals.
"It was hard for any of the other climbers to even relate to what he was trying to do. It was such an extreme step, to climb the Nose of El Cap back then in 1957‑58 when I was just getting started.
"He had incredible drive. He was an extreme individual. I admired that at the time, and I still do."
Hartz asked Chuck who he admired among the prominent climbers at that time.
"I admire all climbers."
Chuck repeatedly told us we had brought our camera to the wrong place.
"The superstars of climbing today are in
I kept hoping Chuck would loosen up and tell some of the stories about the "old days," such as the time he and Yvon Chouinard were in jail in
Chuck, describing the climax to climbing the South Face of Mount Watkins, in The Vertical World of
In the vanishing twilight, the
After more than an hour, Hartz turned off the camera. Chuck had revealed very little about himself except his outrageous modesty, and that he had not bought any new climbing equipment since 1965 -- almost 20 years. That also revealed something about the lost chock on Guide's Wall.
Impossible Dream Almost Possible
In 1986, on a business trip to
Our next meeting was to have been the climax of my "impossible dream."
During my second Grand climb in 1986, I got the idea of coming back with my three children to do it again for my 60th birthday in 1989. It did seem truly impossible then because David, my oldest son, had been living in Europe for years and Camilla, my daughter, was married and in
But David came back to the
I proposed the idea to the kids, with the provision it was all or none. Jamie was enthusiastic and Camilla said she would give it a try. David said he really didn't know if he could afford to take the time off from his job. But, he thought it over several weeks and called one night to say it was a go.
It was not an expedition to Everest, but it had the logistics of one. It literally had to be planned almost to the minute during the week before Labor Day.
Jamie had a few days between his painting job and start of the fall semester, so he came home. Camilla drove up to
With no sleep for David, early Sunday the four of us made the 20‑minute drive from my apartment near the National Zoo in downtown
It would be laughable for me to call myself a climbing instructor, but there was no choice but to try to finesse what Exum does in its basic school with my kids that day.
Our schedule for the trip allowed only a day for the required intermediate school at Exum, then the two‑day Grand climb. There was no time for basic class, bad weather or any other delay.
Sunday was a beautiful day and with Jamie already having some experience, Camilla and David were quick learners on knots, belaying, and all the climbing techniques I could share with them in a day at Carderock.
Then it was back to the apartment to pack eight duffle bags since we would be staying at the American Alpine Club Climbers Ranch at the foot of the Tetons, which provides only buildings with plywood bunks.
Up before daylight, David and I boarded an American flight in DC while Camilla and Jamie went on Midwest Airlines – the four of us heading for
We rented a station wagon at
I had never met Jack Turner, the Exum guide who took us up
Once we actually were in
The reason was that from the time we had arrived in the Tetons we began hearing horror stories about the weather on the Grand, which often has little relationship to what is happening almost 7,000 feet below in the valley where every day had been gorgeous.
Apparently Grand climbers had been encountering all kinds of storms, and there were stories from Jane Gillie at the Exum office about climbers postholing and wading snow up to their waists.
Not only did I know Chuck would be miserable on such a climb, my kids were listening to these stories and had begun to express their own doubts about wanting to do it.
Fortunately, there was no time to worry. After the Exum intermediate school, we had to drive down to
We left in the morning with Chuck from the parking lot in the Lupine Meadows. It was a beautiful day, exactly as it has been for every climb I have ever done over the years in the Tetons.
The hike to the lower saddle was uneventful, but it was a little late and very cold when we arrived at the Exum hut. I noticed Chuck immediately got into a sleeping bag in the hut while the rest of us ate, took pictures and enjoyed the views.
Before sundown and still shivering we settled into our sleeping bags, which crowded every inch of the hut's floor. I slept well, but remember being awakened more than once by Chuck calling to Jamie to stop snoring.
Chuck Ends Grand Dream With Upchuck
When the other guides were up lighting the camp stove and getting water on for breakfast around 3:30 a.m., Chuck was not among them. When I got up, he told me he was sick and suggested we let the others go ahead of us.
Long after the others had gone, Chuck was still not moving. Finally, just before daylight, Chuck got dressed and the five of us headed up the path to the upper saddle.
At our second rest stop, Chuck went over behind a boulder and started vomiting. A stomach bug had been making its way around
It was exactly at this point on my previous Grand climbs that I said to myself, What the hell am I doing here? It's dark, I can't breath, this pack weighs a ton. I think I'll cop out and go back.
But one doesn't. The eyes are on the prize and one goes on to the thrill of stepping on the summit ‑‑ the Grand's or some other.
Camilla grabbed my arm and took me to one side. "Dad, Chuck is really sick. What are we going to do?"
I had brought a small video camera to record our trip and a family reunion we would be attending in
From the videotape I have this sound bite from David:
"Man, this is a piece of cake. I was afraid it would be a lot worse. But when I think about working for hours at 120 degrees in that restaurant kitchen, this is nothing."
David had already learned one of the first lessons of climbing -- that it usually is neither heroic nor death defying, and is very doable for those who get off their butts and give it a try.
I put the camera back in my backpack and looked around. There was no doubt that the kids would all easily make it. They had already proved they loved me enough to come that far, and the upcoming technical part of the climb would be easy for them. But Chuck certainly was too sick to go on, although he had said nothing.
Shit, shit, shit. I thought about all the time, money and effort I had put into organizing the trip. I thought about my dream of the photo we would all have of the four of us standing on the summit of the Grand with one of the world's greatest climbers. Chuck was behind the boulder again, puking his guts out. I said, "Okay, let's head down."
In 1981 on the 50th anniversary of his putting up the Exum route on the Grand, Glenn Exum, retired and a cancer victim, went back up his mountain to do it one more time.
In a moving PBS documentary of the climb, One Last Song on His Mountain, Exum said "... no one will ever criticize you in the mountains if for any reason you cannot go on." A wise man, Glenn Exum.
In the summer of 1990, Jamie convinced a former high school classmate to drive to Jackson Hole from
At lunch the next day Jamie and Mike told me that if I did not join their party for the Grand climb, they probably would not get to go. Mike, another "graduate" of my basic climbing class at Carderock, had no other climbing experience. This had been a problem with the Exum guide the day before in their intermediate class. Therefore, Mike was not getting an enthusiastic endorsement at Exum to do the Grand.
I did not want to tell them I was sick and running a fairly high temperature from a case of prostatitis. The last thing I wanted to do was hike 11 miles up to the lower saddle already feeling like a truck had run over me. But the next morning I drove over to Exum with Jamie and Mike and convinced Rod Newcomb, their guide and one of the Exum owners, that Mike could make it.
The four of us headed up the mountain. That night Jamie, Mike and I slept in a tent outside the Exum hut. A major storm moved across the
When we stepped on the Grand summit at midmorning the next day, unlike my chilly previous visits, it was tee-shirt weather. While Mike handled the video camera work, Jamie did an interview with Rod for their local access cable show back in the
Except the return trip was nothing like my other Grand climbs when, after summiting, I always was back at Dornan's celebrating by midafternoon. My fever was higher and I stopped often with dry heaves since I had eaten almost nothing the last two days. Finally, I had to be helped by Jamie as we made our way down the switchback trail.
Just before sunset, I began to feel better and Jamie was now stopping to vomit. Rod had gone on down hours before so we sent Mike ahead to take the car and get ice and cokes before Dornan's, the store just outside the park, closed. Eventually we made it back to the parking lot after stumbling along the trail for hours in the dark.
The night before we went up the Grand, Jamie, Mike and I had an OP with Chuck at Dornan's, where he was a guest at someone's birthday party. He and I tentatively agreed to meet at the end of September at Devil's Tower.
There was a reason for always meeting at the Tower on that particular weekend, in addition to the normally mild weather and fall color in the park. In Hulett, one of the bars had a free barbecue of roast pig and a live band on Saturday night. On Sunday, if you got off your Tower climb early enough there was a free beef barbecue with beans and hot biscuits sponsored by the Hulett Chamber of Commerce. There was even a little rodeo performance by the locals.
On Thursday, September 27, I flew from
On Friday, I took my video camera looking for buffalo, deer, prairie dogs and whatever around the Tower. Still no Chuck. Moreover, there was not a single climber camping in the park. I began to wonder if I could find a local to go up with me if Chuck was a no-show.
That night there was a knock on my motel door in Hulett. It was Chuck and we went roaring off in my rental car to the roadhouse for OP and steaks.
Over dinner, Chuck said he had been to a "reunion" of the old Yosemite crowd and some of the Exum guides at the City of
The next day was perfect ‑‑ super weather and only a few climbers at the Tower. We decided to do the Durrance route again.
From Royal Robbins on climbing the North America Wall in The Vertical World of
Pratt...had already climbed three great routes on
It was the presence of the other climbers ahead of us that proved "the times they are a changing" even with the unchangeable Chuck Pratt. As Chuck started to lead the first pitch, he reached into his pack and brought out WHAT -- a chalk bag. I was so surprised I didn't even realize it was a chalk bag. I thought he was offering me some trail mix. "This sometimes helps when people are climbing ahead of you," Chuck explained, looking down. "Hands get oily."
This was really weird. I had a chalk bag, too, that I had bought at REI years ago and used only once or twice. Certainly I would never have used it climbing with Chuck Pratt.
"Chuck, you know something. If we keep climbing together long enough I guess I'll see you up here some day wearing fluorescent lycra tights."
We laughed, a good way to loosen up for the Durrance route. That day we did in two and a half hours.
Chuck and I have never done the exact Durrance route. Instead of going to the right through the "meadows" at the top of the climb, we go left on another fairly difficult pitch known as Bailey Direct.
On the next to the last pitch, Jump Traverse, I did the first half to a place where there is room to sit and rest. And I did.
Looking out over the beauty of the Tower park, out over the trees turned a brilliant orange and yellow, at the
Emotion or Premonition?
Would I ever pass this way again to experience the beauty of the land, the joy of the climb and the companionship of a longtime friend? I just sat there for a few minutes and cried, the tears dribbling through the sweat and dirt on my face.
I also thought what an unlikely pair we were hanging off the side of Devil's Tower that Saturday afternoon, while countless millions of other American males were sitting around their TV sets drinking beer and watching college football or golf tournaments.
Here I was, a
And Chuck Pratt. One of this country's greatest rock climbers but probably with everything he owned in the back of the Chuckmobile, while other Yosemite greats such as Yvon Chouinard and Royal Robbins were rich and famous -- if not for their climbing, their products. My guess on that day was that the happiest person of us all was the guy up above who had me on belay.
"Climbing, Chuck."
At the top of the pitch I told Chuck what had happened -- about my emotions, about my sadness and my joy, about just sitting there crying.
"How old are you?" he asked.
"I was 61 two weeks ago."
"Well, I'm almost 50," said Chuck, "and you're a real inspiration."
I know Chuck Pratt, and he couldn't have been serious. Nevertheless, I consider it one of the highest compliments of my very full and fortunate life.
It was late on Christmas Eve, 2000, with my houseguests all abed when I mixed a drink and started opening mail that had accumulated for several days.
There appeared to be a Christmas card from Roy and Becky Chambers, who years ago had sold the Flying V and their nearby working ranch to retire in
When I slit the envelope, a small newspaper clipping dropped out. It was from a Jackson Hole newspaper and reported that Chuck Pratt, 62, had died of a heart attack while on his annual off-season sojourn to
So, perhaps the day I sat and cried on the pitch near the top of Devil's Tower had been a premonition. While Chuck and I in recent years often have met for OP beers at Dornan's bar just outside the Grand Teton National Park in Jackson Hole, that Devil's Tower climb regrettably turned out to be the last time we ever were on a mountain together.
Yo, Chuck, I'm going to miss you.
Copyright John Martin Meek 1991 and 2001. John Martin Meek writes and is the author of "The Christmas Hour," a novel set in Washington, DC, and "I Might Just Be Right," a collection of his newspaper columns and features.
Chuck and I on Devil's Tower, a climb we did the last weekend in September for years.
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Talking Cricket: Bayliss knows there's work to do, but where does he go next?
The champagne may have flown following England's Ashes series victory, but new coach Trevor Bayliss is well aware of the size of the task ahead of him. More »Kevin Hand - Thu, Aug 27, 2015 00:22 BST
EXCLUSIVE: Ramon Vega: What makes a truly elite manager?
Yahoo Sport Business Correspondent Ramon Vega looks at what separates the elite from the excellent, the Fergusons and Mourinhos from the Wengers. More »Yahoo Sport UK - 3 hours ago
Hot football transfer gossip: Man Utd make final lunge for Bale
According to this morning's papers, Van Gaal has gone all out with his final throw of the dice to seduce Bale: £65m plus David de Gea. We bring you this, plus all the other key transfer rumours. More »Kevin Darling - 6 hours ago
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England Rugby World Cup winner Neil Back opens up next month's World Cup, his book 'The Death of Rugby' and the controversial Rugby Lions saga. More »Celeb Q&A - 3 hours ago
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Ana lost 6-3, 1-6, 2-6 to world No.27 Sorana Cirstea as Serbia fell 1-0 behind in its Fed Cup tie against Romania.
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Betty Dent Receives Doctor of Humane Letters from CIU
A South Carolina woman who has served others over her lifetime through the church and the public arena was honored with the Doctor of Humane Letters from Columbia International University during commencement ceremonies May 14. Betty Dent, the wife of the late Harry Dent, supported her husband as he served in numerous leadership positions in state and national politics, finally serving in the White House under President Richard Nixon.
Mrs. Dent served as a secretary in Senator Strom Thurmond's Columbia office and as a leader at Kathwood Baptist Church during the mid-1960s. In the mid-1970s Betty served on the SC Mental Health Advisory Board and was recognized as one of the Ten Most Outstanding Women in Columbia, SC.
In 1985, Betty and Harry began the ministry Laity Alive, teaching and training lay people. For the next 13 years, they participated in mission trips to South Korea, Australia, Russia, Romania, Amsterdam, England, and China. Also during the 1980s, Betty participated in, and coordinated Market Place Bible Studies, and assisted her husband Harry when he was chairman of the Billy Graham Crusade in Columbia.
In 1992, Betty and Harry published "Right versus Wrong: Solutions to the American Nightmare," detailing the stories of their upbringing in dysfunctional and alcoholic homes. In 1993, the two of them received the Edward A. McDowell Award for Distinguished Christian Service. Harry Dent passed away in 2007 after a long struggle with Alzheimer's disease, opening opportunities for Betty to speak to Alzheimer's conferences and care groups.
Betty Dent has a long association with CIU beginning in the 1970s when her daughter was a CIU student. Mrs. Dent audited courses at CIU in the early 70s. The relationship grew over the years, eventuating in her service on the CIU board of trustees from 1993 to 2007. Today, Betty is a member of a ladies prayer group which meets monthly to pray for God's blessing on CIU.
For local media coverage of Betty Dent's honor visit WIS TV: http://www.wistv.com/Global/story.asp?S=14642819 and The State newspaper: http://www.thestate.com/2011/05/13/1818767/betty-dent-to-be-honored.html
.To hear the commencement address of Dr. Jerry Rankin, International Mission Board president emeritus, go to:http://podcast.ciu.edu/051411-jerry-rankin-you-have-not-passed-this
To view photos of CIU's commencements visit the CIU Flickr page:http://www.flickr.com/photos/ciuimpact/


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Kayaking on the Great Salt Lake - "What People are Talking About"
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23 September 2006Meet the wise druid of Holyrood Park and journey back in time to sample life in the Iron Age.
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Chalet Louisa is a ski-in/out (in normal conditions) chalet, in the centre of the Altiport complex above the Les Bergers area on the east side of this excellent resort. From the chalet, skiers can ski to Les Bergers, the ski school meeting point and the Marmottes gondola. 20 minutes (approx) walk from the chalet there are bars and restaurants and the free shuttle service (running until 1700hrs) takes guests into the centre of Alpe d'Huez. This chalet is perfect for guests wanting a quiet location from which to explore the extensive ski area of Alpe d'Huez.Chalet Louisa offers a high standard of accommodation with excellent facilities and fantastic panoramic views of Alpe d'Huez. In addition to all rooms having en suite bathrooms with heated towel rails, there is the added luxury of both a hot tub and a sauna. Built in traditional wood and stone, this lovely chalet has a large balcony off the pleasantly decorated living/dining area with a warming wood-burning stove, TV and DVD. Room 7 is a perfect room for a family with the additional bunk beds that can be used by children only. This is a popular chalet so early booking is recommended.
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Prices shown are per person per week based on maximum occupancy. Descriptions and
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Indiana forward Will Sheehey spoke with the media following the Hoosiers' Big Ten Conference victory over Newbraska at Assembly Hall on Wednesday.
On his first 3-point basket that started IU's 10-0 first-half run:
I just try to bring in that energy. We started off a little slow. I don't think that was the play that really changed it.
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7 December 2007Traditional Skills training has received a boost from Glasgow Metropolitan College and Historic Scotland with the appointment of a new Teaching Fellow.
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The Steamboat Grand Hotel is perfectly located within the ski village, just steps from Steamboat's slopes and gondola. The luxury hotel offers a range of accommodations from well priced hotel rooms to an array of large self catered apartments. The wonderfully friendly service and amazing range of facilities have meant the Steamboat Grand has always been a popular choice for customers after the best Steamboat has to offer.
Rooms have flat screen TV, DVD players in-room safe, coffee makers, hair dryers, robes, iron/board, valley or mountain views, bathroom with bath, shower and WC.Parlour room – sleep 2-4: one room consisting of kitchen, living area with double sofa bed and two single day bedsStudio – sleeps 2-4: with queen bed, queen sofa bed and kitchenette with stove, oven, dishwasher, microwave, and fridgeDouble queen rooms – sleep 2-4: with two queen bedsDeluxe king rooms – sleep 2: with a king bed, balcony, whirlpool tub and fireplaceOne bedroom condo – sleep 2-6: private bedroom with a queen or king bed, full kitchen and living room with dining area, double sofa bed and two day beds
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until time of booking. Please call on 020 8544 7114 for prices for other travel
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quality ratings are provided by the Tour Operator (or one of the Tour Operators
where similar holidays are offered by more than one supplier). We reserve the right
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Moderator: ADGO BOD
IMPRESARIO wrote:Thanks, I'll check out his info. We have over $500 in sponsorship prizes. Most are gift certificates in the range of $25 to $50 to bars and restaurants in the area. We also have a Disc Diver Golden Retriever to give away. I think the best thing is to use the money to cover the expeneses of the keg and the glow lights for the course and then put the rest in to the Payout that way more of each players money goes to the payout of prizes.
Do you have a link to Bradshaws info?
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A warm welcome and excellent service is provided at the Hotel Sonnschein by Herber Thaler and his English wife Gill. It is ideal for families. with spacious rooms and apartments, as well as extensive leisure facilities and children's playroom.
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Iglu acts as a travel agent for disclosed principals/tour operators, further details
of which will be made available at the time of booking. Your holiday contract will
be bound by the tour operators terms and conditions.
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until time of booking. Please call on 020 8544 7114 for prices for other travel
and room options for this property.
Prices shown are per person per week based on maximum occupancy. Descriptions and
quality ratings are provided by the Tour Operator (or one of the Tour Operators
where similar holidays are offered by more than one supplier). We reserve the right
to make minor adjustments to the description or rating based on staff and customer
feedback. For payments by credit card, a 2.5% credit card charge (4% for AMEX) will
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Watch a Major Announcement About LA's Reliance on Coal: March 22!
Since Mayor Villaraigosa announced his bold goal to get Los Angeles off coal back in 2009, thousands of average Angelenos -- regular people from all walks of life -- have joined the L.A. Beyond Coal campaign calling for our city's transition from dirty coal to clean energy.
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WHERE: Watch from the comfort of your desk or couch via your internet-enabled computer. If you are in L.A., join us and watch the announcement in person at the LADWP Headquaters located at 111 N Hope St, Los Angeles, CA 90012 [Map].
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Questions: Contact Jasmin Vargas at firstname.lastname@example.com.
|We apologize, but this action is no longer available. Please visit our Action Center for current opportunities: www.sierraclub.org/takeaction


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Upon a chance viewing of a dance company from the Brazilian city of Salvador in the state of Bahia while studying for her master�s degree in dance ethnology at UCLA in 1986, Linda Yudin�s life changed direction.
Raised in Danville, Ill., and living in Los Angeles at the time, Yudin was going south three months after seeing the performance. Her interest was in the Afro-Brazilian dance traditions prominent in Bahia. These dances often are used as a way to explain stories from the Candombl� tradition, which praises deities known as orix�s.
�I was so taken aback by the orix�s dance, traditional movement and the fact that there was this whole complex of mythological stories that could be brought so beautifully alive on the stage through dance and music,� Yudin says. �As I always say, I met Brazil in Los Angeles.�
Back in the U.S., Yudin celebrated these dances as director and cofounder of Viver Brasil, a dance company based in Los Angeles that she started in 1997 with her husband Luiz Badar�, who is from Bahia.
Yudin says she started the company not only to bring these dances to Los Angeles, but also to feature talented, young performers. The company not only performs regularly, but also teaches classes and workshops. Yudin also is a faculty member at Santa Monica College and a former UCLA faculty member.
Viver Brasil will bring their show �Feet on the Ground� to the Music Center at Strathmore on Thursday. The show is divided into two parts, the first being a series of vignettes that show the stories of the orix�s including the �Three Wives of Xango.�
�In the Yoruba tradition that came from Africa to Brazil, there are hundreds of really wonderful stories of love and betrayal and stories of winning battles and understanding these forces of nature through these mythological stories,� says Yudin. �And they make wonderful dance theater.�
Another story follows Ogum, the orix� of iron, as he brings the elements of nature to the world.
The second half of a show features other styles of dance such as samba and Capoeira. With its high energy and acrobatics, Capoeira is a combination of martial arts and dance.
Also featured in the show are dances associated with the celebration of Carnival, which is a time when some of thepopulation celebrates its African ancestry. In the 1960s and 70s, when Brazil was a military dictatorship, citizens of Brazil used Carnival as a form of protest. Many instruments like the surdo drum, which is a large bass drum, were made to catch the attention of authorities.
�To speak out against the government was obviously inappropriate and, so, what young black activists and choreographers and musicians and composers did was they took to the streets of Carnival and used the Carnival as a platform to being the discussion of racial equality in Brazil. And by doing that, new forms of contemporary Afro-Brazilian dance movement were created to express this expression of politics and racial equality in Brazil,� Yudin says.
To prepare shows, Yudin also consults elder masters in Bahia including Nancy de Souza e Silva, griot-storyteller, dancer, singer and scholar who studied the Candombl� tradition with famed photographer and ethnologist Pierre Verger in the late 1970s.
Now in her 70s, Silva consults with Yudin on what myths to include in her shows such as �Feet on the Ground.�
�As we�re dancing and researching, or I�m teaching my classes, when we get stuck with which song would be included in this particular piece ... she�s literally a phone call away, and we do that,� Yudin says. �We can be in the middle of a rehearsal and we�re having a moment where we�re not sure how to pronounce a word in a song and we�ll call her up.�
When Viver Brasil comes to Strathmore, Yudin and her team hope to share with audiences the dances that have so greatly impacted her life.
�It completely changed my life and changed my literal direction�it�s been an amazing love affair,� she says.


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Created by Shaun Leane for Asprey, and inspired by British Woodland flora, the Blackcurrant Charm in purple and green tsavorites, and 18ct yellow gold, is a detachable charm that can be worn with the Asprey Charm Bracelets, the Oak Leaf Necklace and the Woodland Necklace.
Height - 2cm / 0.8"
Expect delivery within 5 working days of order confirmation.
For orders in GBP: UK delivery £10; EU delivery £15; USA delivery £20; Rest of World delivery £35. Complimentary delivery for all orders over £1000.
For orders in USD: UK delivery $15; EU delivery $20; USA delivery $20; Rest of World delivery $35. Complimentary delivery for all orders over $1500.


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This is the cozy wrap that has concealed pockets for hands-free and secure storage of valuables while traveling. The versatile wrap can be draped over the shoulders or torso or looped around the neck like a scarf, with a drawstring to provide a snug fit and seal out drafts on chilly flights or boat rides. The convenient hands-free design includes a large 7" x 9" zippered pocket for stowing a passport, tablet, or cell phone, with a smaller 5 1/2 sq." zippered pouch for tucking away smaller items such as a watch or keys. Valuables are held close to the body for safety but remain more accessible and comfortable than when carried in a traditional security belt worn under clothing. The entire wrap folds inside the larger pocket for easy storage between trips. It has a 100% polyester exterior and a 92% polyester/8% spandex lining. Hand wash. Black. 10" L x 8" W x 1 3/4" D. (11 oz.)
Lifetime Guarantee
The Traveler's Hands Free Wrap comes with The Hammacher Schlemmer Lifetime Guarantee at no additional charge. If this product ever disappoints you, for any reason, you may return your Hammacher Schlemmer purchase for exchange, credit, or refund.Should you have any questions, we are available 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Please call 1-800-321-1484 to speak with a product specialist or email us at firstname.lastname@example.com to receive a response within one hour.
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(6 of 6 customers found this review helpful)
Does not disappoint!
By Michelle
from Edmonton, Canada
Best Uses
I gave my mother one for Christmas, and she is thrilled, wore it everyday while visiting. I got one for myself as well and I love the hands-free advantage it gives me. Great idea!
Bottom Line Yes, I would recommend this to a friend
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(5 of 5 customers found this review helpful)
I will buy more, is perfect
By MarjD
from Puyallup WA
my daughter travels every weekend & some weekdays for her career, with drastic climate changes, Singapore to Alaska, Seattle to Austin, Denver, etc. It was my gift to her and she loves it, easy to carry if not in use, and it is extremely attractive. I am going to buy one for myself. Everything I have purchased from H&S has always been of the very best quality. I have never had a complaint & will continue to purchase from them.
(2 of 2 customers found this review helpful)
Perfect Accessory
By Best Grammy
from Gladstone, OR
This is the best. When I make a quick run to the coffee shop, all I need is my phone, car keys, & wallet. This scarf carries it all, & it looks good doing it. I HIGHLY recommend this.
COPYRIGHT © 2015 HAMMACHER SCHLEMMER & COMPANY, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. W100HAMMACHER SCHLEMMER • 147 E. 57th ST • NEW YORK, NY • 10022 • 1-800-_321-1484


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French Madie Plush Pillow
After a long and busy day, unwind and relax with this collection.
Add a splash of color and texture to any room with these plush pillows by Majestic Home Goods.
The Majestic Home Goods durable French Madie Pillow will instantly lend a comfortable look to your living room, family room or bedroom. Whether you are using them as decor throw pillows or for support, they are the perfect addition to any room. They offer durability beyond compare.
These throw pillows are woven from poly/cotton twill, and are filled with super loft recycled polyester fiber fill.
Dimensions: 20"L x 8"W x 20"H
Weight: 3 lbs.
French Madie Plush Pillow
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New SRAM RED represents the pinnacle of road racing technology and delivers countless performance advantages to the professional and enthusiast alike. For 2012, the new RED continues in the SRAM tradition as the leader in light weight, flawless shifting, and ergonomic advantage with gorgeous aesthetic styling.
How did SRAM improve on the worlds best mechanical gruppo? They started with everything they knew, and then designed a brand new drivetrain from scratch. Each part was engineered with the twin goals of eliminating the superfluous while focusing on an overall synergy that translates into unmatched performance. Elegant and simple, RED perfects the riding experience through genuine innovation. SRAM RED changes everything.
The Flemish region of Belgium is infamous for serving up the harshest cycling conditions - where driving rain, cobbled non-category climbs, snow and ice are the norm for its 6,000 racing clubs. This place, the pounding heart of a passionate cycling nation where the most revered Spring Classics unfold, is the cold steel anvil where flesh and bone are forged into the greatest racers of all time.
This is Belgium, home to Ridley Bikes, and it is here where Ridley's products are engineered, hammered into raw form by the roads themselves, and where we refine them in competition.
This is Ridley. We are Belgium.
Cyclocrossworld.com is proud to be the first to show you the 2013 line of cyclocross bikes and frames. So you don't miss out, you can pre-order any of Ridley's 2013 cyclocross bikes now so you won't have to wait when they become available in July!
The professionals choose them because they're simply the best tires out there. You choose them for the same reason.
For years, professional cyclists have been riding on Dugast tires because they are everything you could ask for in a tire. They're light and supple and there's a tire for every need and situation. Professionals routinely rebadge their Dugast tires to appease sponsors, because they know that Dugasts are simply unmatched.
Cyclocrossworld.com and Roadbikeworld.com have every Dugast tire you could ever need for road and cyclocross riding and racing. We've even got a few tires that will get you moving on your mountain bike, if you're so inclined. Pick up a set of the world's best tires today!
Lazer has everything you need to keep you looking sharp on (and off) the bike. From helmets to eyewear, Lazer has something for everyone.
If you need to keep yourself safe in case you crash, Lazer's helmets are second to none in safety, comfort and light weight. Their top-end Helium helmet is used by professional teams the world over and is perfect on the road or in the 'cross arena.
If going fast is the name of the game, introduce yourself to the Lazer Tardiz. Countless hours of research and development went into making this helmet as fast as possible.
Finally, if you need to keep the wind, rain and whatever else might be in the air out of your eyes, Cyclocrossworld.com and Roadbikeworld.com have a full array of Lazer's new vision line to keep your eyes happy in style.


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It seems bizarre even to mention this less than two weeks after the vote, but President Obama just won an election that was all about the economy. That's what six in 10 voters on Nov. 6 told exit pollsters they were most concerned about. Not balancing the budget, reforming the social-safety net, or making the rich pay more in taxes—rather, improving an economy still laboring to find a growth groove more than three years after the Great Recession officially ended. "Our top priority has to be jobs and growth," Obama said in a press statement on the Friday after the election, and he's right.
Trouble is, it's easy to get distracted. The bulk of Obama's statement that day centered not on a new plan to boost growth right away, but on posturing toward a possible deficit-reduction deal with congressional Republicans. It's a backward-but-necessary focus, due entirely to a nasty bit of economic timing for which the president and Congress set themselves up during Obama's first term. A glut of reduced tax rates are scheduled to expire at year's end, a crude-instrument set of spending cuts is ready to kick in, and the federal government will soon exceed its ability to borrow. If policymakers allow any of these three outcomes to happen, they would deal a contractionary blow to the recovery; all together, the trio would almost assuredly shock the economy back into recession. Resolving this so-called fiscal cliff to minimize the immediate drag on growth would remove one of the biggest anchors that economists identify as weighing down the recovery.
But if Obama wants his second term to be remembered for a new wave of hearty growth—and not as an extension of the anemic "new normal" that marred his first term—he'll need to address several other forces that helped tug growth downward over the last several years.
Those forces are large and complex: a financial crisis in Europe, a slowdown in China, a bottoming-out domestic housing market, and high and volatile gasoline prices. All of those, to varying degrees, vexed the president in his first term. There is reason to believe that each one could dissipate over the next few years, serving as buoys for renewed growth; that federal policy decisions could influence heavily whether they do; and that smart reforms in how the government taxes, spends, and regulates could, in the absence of those anchors, finally help the economy expand at the pace necessary to put 12 million unemployed Americans back to work.
These are the crucial economic issues facing Obama as he enters his second term.
Fortunately for Obama's reelection bid, the financial crisis that has crippled the eurozone did not spiral into a full-fledged economic meltdown during the summer or fall. Unfortunately, Europe's outlook quietly darkened anyway. Recession has again gripped the Continent, and the International Monetary Fund forecasts an essentially flat year of growth there in 2013, with a 1 percent expansion in 2014. Budget-balancing maneuvers in Greece and Spain, both still in austerity free fall, have produced rising unemployment and increased public debt. Even Germany, the big engine of European growth in recent years, is showing signs of sputtering, University of Oregon economist Tim Duy noted this month.
Europe's woes have hampered American exports (no-growth economies buy a lot less stuff than booming ones), and investors are worried that the financial contagion might spread to American banks.
The U.S. government can't fix Europe's problems. But it could do more to help fix them than it is. Today, American officials are mostly advising eurozone leaders on how to manage the crisis. Instead, Washington could start by leveraging a resolution of the Greek debt crisis, ensuring that the country won't abandon the euro, which would trigger economic disaster in the region.
In a new research paper, Zsolt Darvas, an economist for the Brussels-based think tank Bruegel, contends that the best way to deal with Greek debt is for official lenders—governments, basically—to write it off or to stop charging interest on their loans for eight years. Doing so, Darvas writes, would bring Greece's debt-to-gross domestic product ratio under 100 percent (from about 190 percent now) by 2020, alleviating the crisis.
U.S. officials could start by pushing the International Monetary Fund, of which America is a critical dues-payer, to lead the interest-free charge. "The IMF has a huge responsibility for taking part in the solution," Darvas says in an interview. For European and American leaders hoping to avoid a worsening euro crisis, he adds, "the major risk in the short term is Greece. If they're able to find a solution for Greece in the coming weeks and isolate the problem," the risk would drop substantially.
Bolstering Europe would, in turn, help shore up the other big weak spot in the global economy: the slowdown in China. While Obama and Mitt Romney sparred in campaign debates over Chinese trade and currency manipulation, the far more consequential economic news from the Far East was that growth in China had decelerated faster than many analysts predicted. Further slowing in China would cut into U.S. exports, so the faster the Europeans can ramp up imports—from China and the United States—the better.
This article appears in the November 17, 2012 edition of National Journal Magazine.


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Gwynn Park High School senior quarterback Jay Adams had been giving instructions all night — telling teammates when to enter and exit the game and where to line up.
So with his team facing a fourth-and-1 near midfield in the fourth quarter, Adams didn't hold back.
"We can get it," Adams said. "Coach, we can get it."
Gwynn Park called timeout, and Adams said he lobbied for a running back to take a handoff.
His coaches listened, and two plays after Gwynn Park got a first down on a run up the middle, Adams threw his third touchdown pass.
By Gwynn Park's next possession, Adams was on the sideline bobbing his head and singing to himself as No. 6 Gwynn Park completed its 29-14 win over No. 4 Eleanor Roosevelt on Friday.
"I was in my zone," Adams said. "I was just in a rhythm. I just tried to stay in a rhythm tonight."
The game was the opening act of the PG Pigskin Classic, a set of three games at the Prince George's Sports & Learning Complex pitting 4A teams against 2A teams. Saturday, Potomac (vs. Suitland, 4:30 p.m.) and Frederick Douglass (vs. Henry A. Wise, 7:30 p.m.) will try to match 2A Gwynn Park's upset of a larger, 4A team.
"That wasn't an upset at all," Gwynn Park coach Danny Hayes said. "The bottom line is just that we're waiting for games like this. We want to play the 4A."
Said Adams: "We wanted to send a message. They always say 4A is the powerhouse of PG, and we just felt like it was different. In my opinion, 2A is the hardest division. So, we wanted to come out and show 2A football is what it's about."
To best its larger opponent, Gwynn Park changed its typical play-calling.
"Gwynn Park has been known to be a run-first team," said Adams, a third-year starter. "So, when my coaches told me the game plan, that we was going to throw, all I thought to myself was, 'I've been waiting three years for this opportunity.'"
Adams delivered. He completed 10-of-15 passes for 255 yards to six different receivers, including throwing two touchdowns to Quinton Harris.
Between his passes, Adams managed substitutions, even overruling coaches on the sideline when they sent an extra player in by error.
"I kind of tried to take the pressure off the players and put it all on me, Adams said. "Whether it's my fault or not, on offense, I'm going to tell the players, 'It's not you. It's me. I should have had you in line.'
"I just try to be the general for the team."
After the game, Adams ran to hug Eleanor Roosevelt coach Tom Green.
Adams' great, great grandfather had 32 children, and Adams and Green are related. Adams doesn't know exactly how, but his philosophy is if you want to be part of the Adams family, it will take you — even if you coach the opposing team.
"I just told him, 'Good game, Unc," Adams said.
Green praised Adams' play, and though his team made several costly mistakes, Green didn't use it being opening night as an excuse.
"It's Week 1 for them, too," Green said. "They played a better game than us, and they beat us. It's embarrassing, but the blessing is it's Week 1 and not Week 10."
Adams said he wouldn't bring up his victory at the next family reunion, but Green shook his head at that notion, too.
"He earned it. He can," Green said. "... It goes with the territory, because had it been the other way around, I would have brought it up."
Gwynn Park 29, Eleanor Roosevelt 14
Eleanor Roosevelt (0-1) 0 0 8 6 — 14
Gwynn Park (1-0) 8 7 8 6 — 29
GP — Quinton Harris 11 pass from Jay Adams (Omar Branch run)
GP — Quinton Harris 47 pass from Jay Adams (Ryan Shymoniak kick)
GP — Omar Branch 2 run (Marcus Porter run)
ER — Mike-Ryan Mofor 7 run (Mike-Ryan Mofor run)
GP — Davonte Young 47 pass from Jay Adams (kick failed)
ER — Teke Carlson 9 run (run failed)
Eleanor Roosevelt — Mike-Ryan Mofor 17-77, Carlson Teke 170-40, Jaharr Johnson 1-3, Elijah Liverette 3-(-8).
Gwynn Park — Omar Branch 8-24, Terrell Hawkins 1-6, Daylon Travers 3-5, Darius Spragley 1-3, Stephen Isreal 2-2, Marquis Moody 1-(-3), Eddie Gross 5-(-8), Jay Adams 5-(-8).
Eleanor Roosevelt —Teke Carlson 10-21-123-0
Gwynn Park — Jay Adams 10-15-255-0.
Eleanor Roosevelt — Elijah Liverette 4-52, Mike-Ryan Mofor 4-41, Jawuan Brown 1-19, Casey Saton 1-11.
Gwynn Park — Quinton Harris 4-74, Davonte Young 2-66, Duan Woods 1-48, Omar Branch 1-42, Kimothy Bynum 1-25, Eddie Gross 1-0.


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Practice Philosophy
Choosing to have plastic surgery is a very personal decision. The main focus of our practice is on the overall care of our patients. This starts from the initial consultation; to the operative procedure; as well as all your follow care. We recognize that each individual is unique, having different goals and expectations. We hope to identify your goals and address your expectations. Welcome to our plastic surgery practice.
Plastic Surgery
General Surgery
Combining years of extensive training at the finest universities and being committed to the overall care of his patient is Dr. Ip's formula for a happy patient.
Dr. T. Y. Steven Ip received a received a Chancellor's scholarship to UCLA, where he graduated with an Engineering degree along with finishing his pre-medical studies. He furthered his education receiving an academic scholarship to the University of Texas, where he finished medical school. This was followed by 5 years of training in General Surgery at the renowned Columbia University College of Physicians and Surgeons, St. Lukes/Roosevelt Hospital Center in New York City. To further his surgical expertise Dr. Ip specialized his surgery to Aesthetic, Plastic, and Reconstructive Surgery by spending 3 years at prestigious Duke University. Dr. Ip is double boarded certified by the American Board of Surgery and the American Board of Plastic Surgery.
The start of the process begins with you consultation. During your consultation understanding your specific plastic surgical concerns is his goal. You can feel comfortable candidly expressing your concerns and expectations about the surgery. To ensure that the surgery will be safe, Dr. Ip will then carefully review your medical history and perform a physical examination. He will explain the surgical procedure along with all of the risks and possible complications associated with your specific surgery. This is follow by a discussion of your pre-operative and the post-operative care. You are always encouraged to ask questions at any time.
A pleasant, comfortable, and most importantly safe experience is our goal. Surgeries are performed at the hospital or our state-of-the-art modern outpatient surgery center. The operating rooms are fully state accredited and allows for a 23 hrs overnight stay. The nurses are fully licensed and strictly dedicated to your care. The anesthesiologists are experienced and certified by the American Board of Anesthesia. Valet parking service is also available.
Location & Office Hours
Suite 319
351 Hospital Road
Newport Beach, CA 92663-5422
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Payment Options
Visa, MasterCard, Patient Financing, Cash, Personal Checks, CareCredit


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Hostels in Uganda, Africa
Check out the Hostelworld.com selection of hostels in Uganda. Read customer reviews of Uganda hostels, view hostels on map of Uganda and avail of free SMS confirmations. And why not check out our pick for the best things to see and do in Uganda while you're there. Hostelworld.com - the definitive guide to Uganda hostels.


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Biomarker Discovery Using SELDI Technology
Proper study and experimental design coupled with the correct data analysis approach are critical components of successful biomarker discovery, no matter which technology, platform, or workflow is used. Bio-Rad has produced two in-depth guides to provide researchers with strategies for success.
The first guide, Biomarker Discovery Using SELDI Technology — A Guide to Successful Study and Experimental Design, provides a series of general guidelines for effective study design using virtually any proteomics technology, and gives specific recommendations for using the ProteinChip surface-enhanced laser desorption/ionization (SELDI) system. This guide also includes:
The second guide, Biomarker Discovery Using SELDI Technology — A Guide to Data Processing and Analysis Using ProteinChip Data Manager Software, is a comprehensive resource for data analysis workflows, guidelines, and specific recommendations for analyzing biomarker discovery data. The guide covers:
After samples are applied to an array and the array is washed, an energy-absorbing matrix (EAM) is applied to each spot to facilitate desorption and ionization. A variety of ProteinChip matrices are available for various applications:
What is the education discount policy?
For more than 15 years, Bio-Rad has made science education a major priority. To support this effort, the company has implemented a discount policy that allows high school and college teaching laboratories to purchase kits, instruments, reagents, and other equipment at preferred prices.
How do I apply for the education discount?
If you are an educator at the high school or college level, visit our Education Discount Policy page to establish an education account number.
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Pkg of 20 vials, 5 mg each of sinapinic acid (SPA), for use with ProteinChip arrays
Pkg of 20 vials, 5 mg each of EAM-1 matrix, for use with ProteinChip arrays
Pkg of 20 vials, 5 mg each of α-cyano-4-hydroxycinnamic acid (CHCA), for use with ProteinChip arrays
Pkg of 18 vials, 6 each of α-cyano-4-hydroxycinnamic acid (CHCA), sinapinic acid (SPA), and EAM-1, for use with ProteinChip arrays
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Jaybird & Mais 299 Hockey Tape is a multi-purpose hockey tape manufactured using first quality woven cloth fabrics. It is coated with an aggressive rubber adhesive system which bonds well to socks, pads and hockey sticks. #299 tapes are hand tearable, and boast excellent tensile strength. Jaybird & Mais Hockey Tape is recommended for all styles of hockey sticks, including composites (it can also be used for other sports such as lacrosse, baseball and softball). Can also be used as novelty item or for decoration. Everyone has their own color preference - some players think black tape on the blade of the stick hides the puck better while some think white tape is for skilled stick handlers because they can see the puck better on their stick. We offer 12 different colors/patterns so you can decide yourself. Royal blue is above navy blue and gold is above bright yellow in the group photo.
Please see Jaybird's Taping Techniques reference for the proper way to tape preventative and post-injury applications.
(1 to 11 rolls)
(12 to 35 rolls)
(36 to 71 rolls)
(>= 72 rolls)
* see individual roll price to left
(1 to 71 rolls)
(72 to 215 rolls)
(216 to 431 rolls)
(>= 432 rolls)
Offers the widest range of application flexibility available. Exhibits excellent processing performance whether manually or automatically applied. Has superior tensile strength, adhesion properties and holding force which ensures consistent, reliable seals. Hot melt adhesive will bond faster to a surface which is referred to as quick-grab or quick-stick. It typically has higher tack (will feel stickier to the touch), but is also softer. It has lower heat resistance, shear resistance, and sometimes UV resistance than an acrylic adhesive. NOTE: it is called hot melt because the adhesive is applied hot by the manufacturer and then hardens as it cools (you do not need to apply heat to the tape yourself).
Properties are similar to that of hot melt rubber, but natural rubber often holds where other adhesives won't (recycled fibers, dust, cold, heat and heavy loads). It provides good overall adhesion and moisture resistance.
Offer excellent performance, especially for applications in temperatures less than 40°F and greater then 120°F. It provides excellent clarity, has high shear strength, is usually more permanent/durable even when exposed to moisture, and it ages well over extended periods in fluorescent and sunlight. Since it remains clear for the life of the application and does not yellow over time it is ideal for applications such as sealing white cartons. While it has good initial adhesion it does take 24-48 hours to cure and to achieve its maximum bond strength (has gradual adhesion buildup). Another difference between hot melt rubber and acrylic adhesive is if you fold tape over making the two adhesive sides touch the acrylic adhesive will remain attached to the carrier (e.g. paper, film) while a hot melt adhesive will stick to itself and pull off of the carrier. It is the best choice for clarity, UV resistance and aging characteristics.
Is great for extreme temperature applications since silicone adhesive can work in continuous operating temperatures from -100°F to 500°F. They also exhibit good chemical resistance, retain electrical properties, and remove cleanly with little or no residue.
Zinc oxide based adhesive formula is a skin-friendly adhesive which is commonly used on sports medicine tapes.
Examples: 1/16 inch = 62.5 mils; 1/32 inch = 31.25 mils
Now you can BUILD YOUR OWN CASE with a mix of colors and still get full case pricing! If you want to mix and match colors within a case, please fill in your roll or case 'Quantity' and then select 'Mixed Colors in a Case' for your 'Color' choice. You will specify the color breakdown after you click 'Add to Cart'.
Sign up today to be notified of upcoming deals and exclusive offers! Email Address:


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Powered by IBS Cloud Solutions
Conad Adriatico is one of eight cooperatives owned by Conad, the largest cooperative in Italy. Conad coordinates activities among independent retailers operating in Marche, Abruzzo, Molise, Basilicata and Puglia as well as in Albania.
Conad Adriatico was founded in 1972 by 22 entrepreneurs who joined together in an association to improve their collective buying power.
The distribution network model represents a modern and innovative multichannel cooperative of 380 branded retail outlets, including:
"We have been using IBS Dynaman since 2005 and its advanced capabilities helped us optimize our San Salvo distribution center leading to improved customer service."Conad Adriatico, Italia
Conad Adriatico's goal was to enable its San Salvo food and beverage distribution center, located in the Chieti province (Abruzzo region), to supply all 380 stores along the Adriatic Coast using direct ground transport.
Conad Adriatico chose IBS Dynaman to enhance its inventory management, dock and yard management, reception, put-away, replenishment, picking, packing, consolidation and loading operations across its diverse network and product mix.
Implementation required different warehouse areas to reorganize separately, while supporting Conad Adriatico's ongoing ability to operate without disrupting partner activities.
IBS Dynaman's user-friendly design helped Conad Adriatico successfully implement new resources quickly. This enabled the company to efficiently manage peak workflows, effectively doubling turnover during the summer months.
"IBS Dynaman positively impacted our productivity. For example, the application's flexible picking and put-away functionality allowed us to make better use of our dynamic locations, relieving storage-related issues across the network," said Claudio Mazzetelli, Conad Adriatico Logistics Director.
In effect, IBS Dynaman improved Conad Adriatico's warehouse productivity by 20%, accelerating payback through the significant efficiencies realized during the company's peak seasons.
"We were looking for a software company to help us expand and streamline our San Salvo distribution center operations, enabling us to deliver both fresh and frozen food across the network. IBS proved to be the ideal partner."Conad Adriatico, Italia
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Name: Conad AdriaticoRegion: ItalyOperation: DistributionProducts: Fresh and frozen foodWebsite: http://www.conad.it


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Check out videos from the 2015 SIA Snow Show. View Now »
Photos from the 2015 Snow Show and on-Snow Demo/Ski-Ride Fest.
View Now »
The Snow Show Daily is the official publication of the SIA Snow Show. Published each day of the Show, on-site, the Snow Show Daily is how the industry stays in touch with the Show including: trends, parties, events, industry interviews and the local Denver scene. Read More »
"The Show was awesome! Tons of traffic and excitement, which we were really excited about. We'll be back every year moving forward. We've gotten new business from being here, and as a launch year, it's been absolutely great."Tracy Bordwell, Creative and Technical Design, Fate Clothing
"As a snow-sports journalist, I find the SIA Snow Show to be an invaluable resource. There's nowhere else I can survey all of the latest gear and get face time with interesting suppliers, retailers, athletes, and other industry movers all in one place."Sam Bass, editor-in-chief, Skiing Magazine
"You have everyone in one place, so you can see everything you need and get an idea of where trends are going. It's a good overview of what's going on in the industry. Last year we picked up a couple new lines that I wouldn't have necessarily picked up had I not gone to SIA. The Show gets you psyched."Jim Slanetz, Owner, Board Bin, ID
"From our standpoint, our line has gotten larger each year, and the exposure at the Show is huge. There are so many people here and this Show seems to grow every year, it's really beneficial for our sales reps to be here."Carrie Crogan, Trade Show Coordinator, Under Armour


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As with all posters in the old SI series, this amazing entry features perfect photography from the Sports Illustrated staff masters, great reproduction quality, an elegant graphic design, and a facsimile autograph from the player himself. Obtained by Sports Poster Warehouse in a large Florida warehouse find back in 2002, just a limited quantity remains in stock, and once they're gone, they're gone! Grab yours now to avoid disappointment.
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SAVE Solo Classic 15.6" Rolling Overnighter Case
Designed for success with great style, intelligent functionality and quality craftsmanship!
The versatile Dual-Access CheckFast laptop sleeve allows for removal of a laptop up to 15.6" from the zippered side or from the main compartment.
There is an overnight section that features elastic straps with speed buckles to secure overnight articles and a full-length meshed accessory pocket. The zip-down, front organizer contains a cell phone pocket, pen loops, business card holders, and an accessory pocket. Telescoping handle system allows for easy rolling capability and the front zippered compartment features an accordion fan file to keep you organized.
Material: Ballistic poly.
Dimensions: 15.75" L x 6" W x 12" H
Weight: 8.6 lbs.
Solo Classic 15.6" Rolling Overnighter Case
Solo Classic 15.6" Rolling Overnighter Case
Our innovative products will provide you and your family with years of enjoyment. And with the Brookstone Protection Plus service and replacement plans, you'll have the added peace of mind knowing that if the unexpected does happen, we will simply repair or replace your covered product. Our enhanced coverage goes above and beyond the manufacturer's warranty, saving you time and money.
- 2-Year Extended Replacement Plan $9.99
- 3-Year Extended Replacement Plan $15.99
Solo Classic 15.6" Rolling Overnighter Case
Solo Classic 15.6" Rolling Overnighter Case
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