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For instance I'm describing the park of an art museum in a foggy day. I'm not sure if I should start with the fog, wind, grass, threes, walking paths, buildings, stairs or something else. Is there a good order rule to describe a setting (so that the reader get a clear picture of the where the story is located)?
You almost certainly want to avoid a shopping list of details about the park. You're not describing the wind and the trees and the building and... You're describing one unified moment in space and time.
You want to focus on what the reader needs to know for the story to make sense (he needs to know the scene is in a park, and not in out of space; if there's going to be anything happening in or around the park's pond, you want the reader to be aware that the pond exists), and on what you can use to create atmosphere (this scene is going to be calm and serene, like the park; or: the park is wilting and poorly-kept, emphasizing the story's squalor and disorder).
There must be millions of ways to describe setting, but a simple one is this: start with an establishing shot; one or two clear sentences that tell the reader where the scene takes place, and maybe touches upon the mood. Then pick two or three details that are easiest for you to use for both of the goals I mentioned (e.g. you choose the pond because it's important to the location, and you describe it as being peaceful and smooth because that's the atmosphere you want to convey). Since the establishing shot has conveyed the most immediate and crucial information, these details won't be confusing, and can be mentioned in any order - unless one of those details is unusual ("the pond was smooth, the trees swayed in the wind, and the hieroglyphic-covered merry-go-round tinkled a jolly tune" - you want unusual details first, just as a person's attention would be drawn to them) or particularly important to the plot (in which case you want to prevent the reader from skimming over it).
Another way is to go the opposite route - focus on one small detail, and ripple outwards from there, explaining how that one detail ties in with important elements of the larger setting.
The important thing here is to understand there's no "right order," because you're not filling out a list. You're conveying an experience; the correct order is whatever conveys the experience best. That might be "the experience of entering the park and looking around," or it might be "the experience of looking for a restful spot away from that hideous museum," or "the experience of being chased through a museum by radioactive zombies". Each of these will describe the setting differently, focusing on different details, and in a different order. If you don't know what experience your description is trying to convey, then stop and figure it out - if you don't know why the reader should be interested in your description, then he probably won't be.
Edited to add: A helpful and easy exercise: choose a few setting descriptions in books you've enjoyed. See if you can list the "order" the author describes different details in, within each description. See if you understand the structure the author's chosen for that description - and why it's a good fit for that scene. I suspect you'll find some very interesting techniques.
Describe first whatever will pull the reader into the scene. Period. There is no canonical order you should follow. If there were such a thing, it would make for a lot of dull repetition, and even fewer books would get read than they do now.
Instead, try to find the detail that will pull the reader in: the telling detail that makes an emotional connection with what is about to be described. Who cares what the sky looks like if it has no bearing on what the scene is about?
For example, consider this paragraph about an escape:
Only the details essential to story are revealed, and the focus is on the details that are important to the character and, hence, the reader. It is that kind of detail that you must find and reveal.
I don't know if there's a rule, but I have a meta-rule: the description has to follow an eye-line. That is, everything is described in the order that a person might see it. So I might start with the sky, then the trees then the dirt; or the outside of the building, then the doorway, the foyer, the corridor, and then the room. Something to give the user a sense of movement.
I'm basically aping the camera motion from a movie, which may or may not be a good thing in itself, but at least it give me -- and maybe the reader -- some structure.
Obviously you cannot give the whole impression of the object you want to describe all at once, but have to start somewhere.
Where you start and how you proceed from there will depend on what you want to convey to your reader and might be influenced by the following aspects, among others:
For example, if your narrator is a confused person, his perception of the park will be confused, while a clear minded person will have a clear and simple perception of the park.
Or if the park is very orderly and structured, you will want to describe it in an orderly and structured manner, while an overgrown chaos of plants, playground, people, and trash might be decribed in a chaotic manner.
Or if your protagonist approaches the park and moves through it, he will first see it from afar and have a more general impression and see more and more details as he approaches and finally enters and moves through it. If, on the other hand, he is sitting on a bench daydreaming, his first perception, when he returns to reality, might be a bird picking at some crumbs or the light filtering down through the leaves and turn outward and to a more holistic image from these details. Or, if he is walking the park with his loved one, talking to her, his perception will be a sequence of highlights unrelated to each other.
So, first of all, think about the place in your narrative that the decription has and try to
deduce the order of the description from its narrative function.
The way you choose to describe the setting depends entirely on what's at stake for the narrator. You are writing the story; the narrator is telling the story. It's important to understand the distinction.
The narrator's role will help you choose which details to reveal when you describe the setting. With that, there are ways you, as the author, can have fun with your characters. For example, what your narrator fails to notice can be as interesting to your readers as what he does describe. A seemingly objective narrator can turn out to be unreliable, inducing the reader to reflect on the story so far, and work to uncover the actual truth.
So, there's no specific order, or list of items to include. Do what you need to do to build the necessary tension to advance the story, and reward the reader for sticking through to the end.
Why should your description of a scene occur at an instant in time, like a photo? I had written so much here yet felt this first paragraph from Rothschild's Fiddle by Anton Chekhov captures it best:
Chekhov's description ignores time and space, yet we get a clear sense of the town - it's wretched and in the shadow of a fortress like prison. There's nothing else we need to know about the town's physical appearance to understand the scene. The same is true of Yakov's home, a hut with just one room crowded with his and his wife's belongings.
It's tough to write like this, yet descriptions like this bring you and your readers much closer to the scene as you experience it.
I largely agree with this answer, to which I add:


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Smoke and mirrors
Movie magic is a one-trick pony
By Tim Pompey 06/13/2013
Now You See Me
Directed by Louis Leterrier
Starring: Jesse Eisenberg, Woody Harrelson, Isla Fisher, Dave Franco
Rated PG-13 for language, some action and sexual content
1 hr. 55 min.
Now You See Me is really one long magic trick. Clever in its planning, but with a lot of working parts that move at a frenetic pace, it feels like a show you might catch as a TV special, and it should, since magician David Copperfield was brought in to consult.
The real motive here is to do the old shell trick. Spin things around. Keep you guessing. Then, reveal how badly you've been fooled. As the film itself suggests, the more closely you look, the less you know.
There's a strange psychology to magic and illusion — the audience as the victim, the illusionist as the one who's the smartest guy in the room. Outside of this environment, being flim-flammed would make us angry. But in a dark space with flashing lights and a magician's smile, we seem to fall under a spell and welcome, even volunteer, for the humiliation.
Perhaps that is exactly what French director Louis Leterrier is hoping for: A film audience equally as gullible and willing to sit through almost two hours of rouse to find out how the trick works.
To be sure, he seems to know what he's doing, if not in plot, certainly with an abundance of high-speed pursuits and enough crowd noise to give the audience tinnitus. The questions remain for anyone watching: Does the ending justify the story? Does the magic itself provide enough showmanship to make the viewing worth it?
The trick starts from the opening frame and carries through to the very end. Four different types of illusionists receive a mysterious tarot card inviting them to a run-down flat in New York City: Card shark J. Daniel Atlas (Jesse Eisenberg), mentalist Merritt McKinney (Woody Harrelson), escape artist Henley Reeves (Isla Fisher) and pickpocket Jack Wilder (Dave Franco).
Why have they been summoned? We're not sure exactly, but the film would lead us to believe that corporate tycoon Arthur Tressler (Michael Caine) is paying them to put on a giant magic show that involves bank robberies.
When their opening act leads to a large heist from a French bank in Paris, the law appears in the person of disheveled and grumpy FBI agent Dylan Rhodes (Mark Ruffalo) and meticulously beautiful French Interpol agent Alma Dray (Mélanie Laurent). They're the Oscar and Felix of law enforcement.
And then there's the appearance by former magician and skeptic Thaddeus Bradley (Morgan Freeman), who seems bent on exposing magicians and cops as either phony or inept. Why is he in the movie? Think of him as the explainer, the man who provides the audience with the truth behind the tricks.
There is a point to all this madness, and I do admit it results in a lollapalooza of an ending that you probably won't see coming. I told you this was meant to be an illusion. Car chases, screaming cops, performing magicians. All this is intended as a diversion to the actual performance and giant revelation at film's end.
Will you enjoy all this hocus-pocus? Maybe, but frankly I found it grueling to sit through, not just for the showboat illusions or the questionable acting, but all the explanations. There's so much recap in this film, it feels like one of those HBO or Showtime previews on DVD that I always try to skip.
Does the surprise ending make up for all this film's folderol? Only in part. Most magic specials on TV are only an hour or so. Now You See Me is longer and much less entertaining. I need more than a magic show to make me appreciate the story. Unfortunately, this film turns out to be a one-trick pony.
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The Mackinac Fudge Shop - Gourmet Mackinac Island Fudge - Custom Three Slice Box - Mix and Match… for $19.95
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This is the best Mackinac Island fudge I've ever gotten through the mail. The only thing better is going right to the different island shops themselves but I think that's because they exhaust the warm fudge fumes out through the vents in front of the shops. Lol
2 Comments add a comment
No idea how all the fudge shops stay in business there... literally seems like 10 - 15 in such a small touristy area.
@otnehs: they all seem to have their own niche but I'm not sure how they survive either except perhaps years of reputation. Everytime we visit I buy from at least four different fudge shops. Lol


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text: This is a simple lesson that will show all you folks that don't know how to draw food too well, so here is drawing strawberries for kids, step by step. To be honest with you I don't know why I made this lesson, I think it was out of boredom because who doesn't know how to make strawberries anyway. I'm not saying that all folks can recreate the strawberry perfect, but I'm pretty sure that if someone draw one of these red delicious fruits on a piece of paper with no drawing experience at all, it would come out looking like what he/she intended. That's about it. Have fun drawing strawberries for kids and let me know if you liked this random lesson at all. Peace out and enjoy!


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If the Earth left the solar system for some reason. Assuming its moving at the same velocity it's currently exhibiting. How long would it take for the atmosphere to freeze. Would we get methane clouds like Titan. Would there be an atmosphere or would it all be frozen on the ground?
If the Earth left the solar system for interstellar space. How long would it take for atmosphere to freeze?
the Earth is emitting thermal radiation corresponding to its temperature, and losing the energy (and decreasing temperature) in this way. Normally, this is cancelled - every day or every year - by the energy coming from the Sun. The second term would be absent in your thought experiment.
So those 342 Watts per meter squared in average coming from the Sun (more precisely, only 250 or so because a part is reflected without any transformation of the energy form anyway, so it's like if it is not coming at all) would disappear from the budget. One needs to estimate the heat capacity of the atmosphere - and the relevant layers of the ocean that are capable to heat the atmosphere above it for a while. But you don't need to be that sophisticated. It's enough to look at the reality of weather - numbers that everyone knows.
In the continental climate, going from day to night lowers the temperature of the atmosphere by 1 Celsius degree in average (cloudiness makes the day-time difference smaller; sunny skies make it larger). Because what you say is just a permanent night, this rate of cooling would simply continue and continue. So the initial rate would be cooling by 1 degree per day or so; it would be slower above the ocean.
As the temperature of the Earth would be going down, the radiation would be dropping as the fourth power of the absolute temperature (in Kelvin degrees). The atmosphere would be getting cooler, partly condensed (if not frozen), and much thinner. So once the absolute temperature decreased by 20 percent (note that $1.2^4$ equals 2 or so) or about 50 Celsius degrees, the rate of cooling would drop to 1/2 of the original one. At any rate, you need a few months to get to minus 50 degrees or something like that. The ocean would still be oscillating for a long time and it would try to unmelt the thinner atmosphere right above it - just like the circulation of water beneath the ice in a pond. Note that deep ocean circulation takes 1,500 years or so.
So of course, the ocean wouldn't freeze over for a very long time. But that's already a different question. Needless to say, heat almost doesn't get beneath the solid ground - kilometers below the rocks, they wouldn't notice that the Sun is gone for thousands of years or much longer.
Best wishes Lubos
If you could suddenly drop a big screen between the Earth and Sun, the initial rate of energy loss would equal the total solar energy input:
$$\frac{dE}{dt} = \alpha F A_e .$$
Where $\alpha$ is the mean albedo, which Wolfram puts at $0.37$, the flux is $F = 1400\frac{\text{W}}{\text{m}^2}$, and the radius of the Earth is $R_e = 6.4 \times 10^6\text{ m}$, I get $7 \times 10^{16} W$.
Now, the atmosphere masses roughly $5 \times 10^{18}\text{ kg}$ (Wolfram again), and the heat capacity of Nitrogen gas is $c_p = 30 \frac{\text{J}}{\text{mol K}} = 1070 \frac{\text{J}}{\text{kg K}}$. So the initial cooling will be around $1.3 \times 10^{-5}\text{ K/s}$, or about one Kelvin per day. That rate will drop by the fourth power of the temperature (use absolute units!).
Things left unconsidered:
As Omega says in the comments all these factors are mitigating, and the real rate of temperature loss could be a factor of several (maybe even ten) lower than the above calculation. There are a lot of details that really matter, and things will change as the atmosphere changes (more clouds, then less, possible carbon dioxide clouds...) and the oceans freeze over.
However, the fact that the day/night temperature cycle is much larger than the daily change derived above suggests that the temperature near the Earth's surface is only loosely coupled to the mean atmospheric temperature (I guess that's not a big surprise as the surface is probably the warmest part of the atmosphere), so you can expect surface temperatures to drop much more rapidly than than the mean at first. How much faster? Well, like the day-to-night change initially, though I'd guess this will slow pretty quickly.
Velocity relative to where? Not that crucial though =)
It would take a matter of hours(maybe a few days) if you instantly take it to an empty space. It would take a few weeks if you gradually move away from the Sun. Let me note that as Noldorin said the only way of heat transfer is via radiation, but since Earth is a relatively good radiator, it would not take very long.
There would almost always be an atmosphere because there simply is enough gravity to attract gas, no matter what kind of gas it is. It will surely be dimmer&less dense though. There is not nearly enough methane on Earth to form a methane cycle similar to that of Titan. Titan possesses maybe hundreds of times more methane than Earth.


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Home > Food > Recipes > Paneer and Sweet Pepper Curry
Paneer and Sweet Pepper Curry
Categories: Entertaining, Low-fat, Spicy
Type: Main Dishes
Type: Main Dishes
Chiles and curry give the paneer in this dish a spicy kick.
Prep Time: 15M
Cooking Time: 40M
Serves: Serves 8
- 4 tbsp ghee or vegetable oil
- 2 × 9oz (250g) packs paneer, cubed
- 4in (10cm) piece fresh ginger, peeled and sliced
- 3 red chiles, seeded and chopped
- 2 tbsp dried curry leaves, crushed
- 2 tsp cumin seeds
- 4 tsp garam masala
- 2 tsp turmeric
- 8 red bell peppers, seeded and sliced
- 8 tomatoes, skinned and coarsely chopped
- sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
- bunch of cilantro, finely chopped
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- Heat half the ghee or oil in a large wide pan, add the paneer, and cook on medium-high heat for 5-8 minutes or until golden all over. Keep turning the pieces so they don't get too brown. Remove with a slotted spoon and set aside.
- Heat the remaining ghee in the pan, add the ginger, chiles, curry leaves, cumin, garam masala, and turmeric, stir well to coat with the oil, then add the peppers and cook on low heat for 10 minutes or until beginning to soften.
- Add the tomatoes and cook for 10 minutes. Return the paneer to the pan, season with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, then simmer gently for 10-15 minutes. Stir in the cilantro and serve with rice, chapati, or naan bread.
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Excerpted from The Illustrated Quick Cook.
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Highlander (Director's Cut) (Blu-ray) (Widescreen) for $6
Christopher Lambert and Sean Connery star in the epic tale of immortality that launched one of the most beloved action-adventure series in film and TV history. After Scottish clansman Connor MacLeod (Lambert) discovers his true identity as a member of a legion of immortals, he embarks on a legendary journey spanning continents and centuries, eventually landing in modern-day New York City. Connor faces his ultimate test when other immortals begin to appear in the city, leading to a titanic showdown where only one can claim victory. Directed by Russell Mulcahy and featuring a soundtrack by Queen, this is the modern classic that has attracted millions of warrior fans worldwide. This is "Highlander".
6 Comments add a comment
Is there only one of these?
I think that this is currently $5 in-store at Target.
@spacezorro: you mean only one in the series? No, there are a ton of Highlander films, including a long-running TV series it was also adapted into a pretty cool anime too. :)
@kidkobun: Nope - Target has it for $7.99 at this moment.
@spacezorro: THERE CAN BE ONLY ONE.
And all the sequels, direct to TV movies, and TV series.
The Highlanders determination was no match for corporate greed. :-(
Somehow, 'there can be only one' fits the seller Wal-Mart pretty well.


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2 Comments add a comment
I live in an apartment where I can't burn candles and these warmers work perfectly! I use mine constantly and the original bulb still works. This is an excellent price as well.
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Moderators: SecretSquirrel, notfred
bthylafh wrote:CentOS? It's my understanding they do a good job of emulating RHEL, which itself focuses on stability and security ueber alles. The stuff won't be the most modern (COS 6.4 uses Linux 2.6.32), but IIRC it's well-maintained with security patches & has SELinux. You should be able to upgrade minor releases (6.3 to 6.4, say) easily, but upgrading between major releases won't work & will require a reinstall.
I haven't used it much (I'm a Debian/Ubuntu/Mint weenie) so I can't tell you about the state of its documentation.
bhtooefr wrote:Relatively low maintenance
Good updating policies. My ideal OS would be one that keeps all packages up to date, in a way that avoids breaking things, in a rolling release model. But, that's not really possible. Ubuntu fails here, because the LTS releases don't get good backports, and the non-LTS releases require frequent major upgrades that are to be treated as somewhat dangerous.
I'm thinking that FreeBSD and Solaris/Illumos (but which side of the fork, and which distro if the Illumos side?) are probably where I need to look here, but I'm certainly open to continuing on Linux if that's what's best for me, too.
bhtooefr wrote:ZFS would be nice, but certainly isn't a must-have. There's plenty of things that I like about it, but I realize that this means switching OSes (because Linux and ZFS ain't exactly low maintenance, and I'd rather not go for btrfs right now).
ZFS performance seems and feels better under Linux, beleive it or not.
thegtproject wrote:bhtooefr wrote:ZFS would be nice, but certainly isn't a must-have. There's plenty of things that I like about it, but I realize that this means switching OSes (because Linux and ZFS ain't exactly low maintenance, and I'd rather not go for btrfs right now).
Well, let's go ahead and throw that misconception out the window. Besides getting your Linux install running on root zfs (which still isnt THAT bad), ZFS is really ready for prime time on Linux. I was very skeptical, but a few weeks ago when I read that the latest ZFS for Linux was ready for wide scale deployment I finally dropped OpenIndiana (OpenSolaris fork) and installed my personal favorite Linux distro - Arch - and had my 20 TB zpool imported with 3 commands (after adding the zfs repo to pacman.conf of course(pacman is Arch's apt-get)).
# pacman -S zfs
# systemctl enable zfs.service
# zpool import tank
DONE, 0 issues. Incredible. Something I've wanted for a very long time now. I'm so happy my NAS is Linux and I havn't looked back. ZFS performance seems and feels better under Linux, beleive it or not.
Deanjo wrote:thegtproject wrote:ZFS performance seems and feels better under Linux, beleive it r not.
Placebo effect I'm afraid.
http://www.phoronix.com/scan.php?page=n ... px=MTM1NTA
bhtooefr wrote:I don't mind my server spending time compiling updates, as long as it's mostly automated - I'd prefer not to, but it's no big deal, this thing's hardware is massively overprovisioned for my workload, at least right now (my workload is just now expanding past the capabilities of a 1.1 GHz P3, I mainly got this hardware because it was a great deal, and I knew it'd be enough hardware for my needs for the next ~10 years, with not that much more power consumption). Looking through the FreeBSD handbook, it does look like I should stick to the RELEASE branch and not use STABLE or TESTING, but at least major version updates can be done (but looks like they're hell to do - like, recompile all ports installed on the system).
thegtproject wrote:I used to be Solaris fan, but then I took an arrow---- i mean.... then Oracle (satan) took over. And the slowly progressing of Illumos just isnt my style.
Flatland_Spider wrote:Oracle ceded the market to Linux when OpenSolaris was closed down.
thegtproject wrote:Solaris was incredible. And for those reading, if you enjoy a good history read, read up on the company Sun and all their achievements- truly an amazing company and a damned shame they went down.
The least they could have done was make licensing compatible with dtrace and zfs, but we all know they have every intention on monetizing these technologies to the fullest extent.
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Ford 460 Stroker Piston SelectionWritten on June 22, 2007 Selecting the right pistons for your Ford 460 stroker engine
Ford 460 Stroker Piston Selection
-April 2007-
Question: Just to start things off, I'm 20, and this is my first engine build, so if I leave out calculations or other things, that's why!
I'm building up a '78 Ford 460 block. I've bought a set of D0VE-C heads for it, and I'm planning on getting a 4.500-inch stroker crank. The rod length I'm supposed to use with the crank is 6.800. I will bore the engine 0.030-over to leave some room for a future rebuild. I plan on installing a decently radical cam as well, something between 0.400-0.500 lift. As for the heads, I'm going to have a port-and-polish as well as a valve job done.
Taking note of all the above, how do I go about piston selection? I'm definitely going with forged, so I have room to upgrade (nitrous, forced induction, and so on). I'm basically worried about not having enough clearance in the cylinder. With the smaller combustion chamber on the D0VE heads versus the stockers, as well as the stroke being longer and a bigger cam, how do I figure out what piston I need? I'm hoping to get the compression up to about 12.5:1.
Daryl Greenlee
Meadville, PA
Answer: Don't be afraid to ask questions-we all had to start somewhere. That said, engine math is an important part of hot-rod engine building, so here's what you (or your custom aftermarket piston maker) need to consider.
First, determine if it's even possible to make a piston that fits. Is there enough physical space in the cylinder block to accommodate the piston, its piston rings, and the piston pin with your crank stroke and connecting-rod length? Start by figuring out the max possible piston height-known as compression distance (CD)-that's available to work with. CD is the distance from the pin centerline to the piston deck (the flat part of the piston top). To find CD, subtract the rod length and half the stroke from the engine's blueprint block height. The design blueprint block height of a '72-'96 Ford 460 block is 10.322 inches from the crank centerline to the block-deck surface (block-milling will probably be needed to achieve the blueprint dimension).
So you have 1.272 inches in which to accommodate the piston CD and still achieve at least a zero piston deck clearance at TDC.
Second, you need to figure if the calculated max CD is sufficient to accommodate the ring package. According to Hank Bechtloff, the legendary Hank The Crank, the following minimum dimensions end up a little tight on the street but should still be viable. (In a perfect world, you would want about 0.100-inch more than shown from the piston deck to the first ring, as well as between each ring groove.) These dimensions assume the use of a conventional 1/16-1/16-3/16 three-ring package and the popular 0.990-inch-od big-block Chevy piston pin. The big-block Chevy pin is plenty strong but saves some room because it's smaller than a standard Ford 460 pin. Plus, it's easier to order custom pistons and rods for the more popular Chevy pin.
|Distance, piston deck to ring 1
|Thickness, ring 1
|Distance, ring 1 to ring 2
|Thickness, ring 2
|Distance, ring 2 to ring 3
|Thickness, ring 3 (oil ring)
|Distance, ring 3 to top of pinhole
|Half the piston-pin diameter
At 1.261 inches, the ring-package requirement is smaller than the 1.272 max CD dimension. You should have enough clearance for the rings without having to run the piston pin through the oil-ring groove, which requires special retainers and is not generally recommended for long-term street durability.
Third, you need to determine what piston dome or dish volume is required to produce the desired compression ratio. The previously calculated dimensions will yield a piston with a 0.011-inch piston (below) deck clearance at TDC (1.272 - 1.261 = 0.011). Piston deck clearance is one of the variables used for calculating compression ratios. You also need to know the head-gasket compressed volume (or compressed thickness and the gasket bore size), the combustion-chamber volume, and the piston dish or dome volume. Various Web-based calculators can give you exact figures (just Google "compression-ratio calculator"), but Hank says a fairly accurate approximation of what's needed in terms of total combustion-cavity volume (CV, expressed in cubic centimeters) in a V-8 engine to achieve a desired compression ratio (CR) can be found using:
From this subtract the combustion-chamber volume, the head-gasket volume, and the piston deck-height volume ([bore]2 x piston deck height x 0.7854 x 16.39) to find the required piston volume (PV). If you end up with a positive number, that's the necessary net dome volume. If it's a negative number, that's how much dish and/or valve-relief volume you need. Assuming an 0.011 piston deck height, 75cc chamber-volume D0VE-C heads, and a Fel-Pro heavy-duty head gasket (PN 1018) with 11.2cc gasket volume, your net piston dome volume needs to be about 8.2 cc (97.08 - 75 - 11.2 - 2.73 = 8.15).
The piston's valve reliefs must be deep enough to avoid valve contact with your cam selection. Deep valve reliefs are pretty standard with aftermarket, custom pistons, but your piston maker may want more detailed info on your final cam specs. Regardless, you should still trial-assemble the engine and check piston-to-valve clearance in 5-degree increments on the overlap between the exhaust and induction stroke, beginning at 20 degrees before TDC and ending at 20 degrees after TDC. At running lash, you want about 0.080/0.100 inch clearance on the intake and exhaust valves, respectively. In a worst-case scenario, the pistons must be sent out for fly-cutting.
At bottom dead center (BDC), the piston must clear the crank counterweight. Most pistons designed for stroker engines have ample clearance, but again, this should be verified during mockup. Generally, you want about 0.100 inch clearance between the piston and the crank counterweight. If necessary, either the crank counterweight or the piston can be remachined to achieve this. Do not remachine the counterweight in a circular arc or there will be insufficient weight left for balancing purposes. Instead, the counterweight must be cam-ground for clearance by an experienced, custom crank shop.
Lastly, a 12.5:1 static compression ratio almost certainly requires race gas and is way too high for a supercharger. You also really need good aftermarket aluminum heads to support such a large engine. For a cam, you should be looking for something over 0.600 lift with duration in the mid-250s or higher (at 0.050-inch tappet lift).
Hank The Crank
Los Angeles, CA


text: Well I can't find absolutely no information whatsoever on this figure from Tokidoki. I submitted lessons on the two main characters from the 'Til Death Do Us Part' line. It is the pet of Adios, the reaper like figure and this tutorial will teach you "how to draw Skeletino", step by step. I have no idea what type of animal Skeletino used to be, but I'm guessing it could only be one of two things, a dog or a cat. Yes I know that he has pointed ears of a cat, but don't dogs also have pointed ears? Anyways he is a pretty basic character to create, and finish. You will probably spend about ten to fifteen minutes as you draw Skeletino. So have fun, and remember to keep those requests coming. Adios people!


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By winter I will be commuting on my bike at night. How can I make my bike as visible as possible to all car drivers?
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The obvious few things are:
Get a Bright Bike kit from brightthread.com:
I got the blue pinstripe set and I love it - a bright source of light, like a car headlight, hits your bike, and you light up like a christmas tree. It's especially pronounced at night, and as cool as this picture is, it doesn't do it justice. Check out the video on their website for a nighttime demonstration.
Edit: I thought I would share my picture of my bike with the blue BrightBike pinstripes on it. This is taken in my dark garage with my flash covered (just enough light to make it glow without the picture being blurry). In daylight, the color is almost the same as my paint color, so they're hard to see.
Take Karl Lagerfeld's advice:
Don't forget side visibility. Spoke lights are great for making you visible at crosswalks or traffic lights.
3M makes Scotchlite tape that is very reflective. My wife used craft punches to punch flower shapes out of it and covered her bike with it. Her bike gets noticed day and night.
I haven't noticed any mention of flags here. Particularly on trailers or recumbents, a flag gives you a bit more height, plus the motion attracts attention. My wife hung a bunch of streamers off her flag pole.
You could also turn your wheels into programmable displays using Ladyada's kit, which exploits persistence of vision. Some assembly required.
I uses the Down Low Glow which is a tube light that mounts to your down tube. It creates an area of illuminated pavement around you which most motorists in my area treat as the "no-zone". I generally feel safer riding at night than during the day because motorists will allow for more passing distance.
I have been using Monkeylectric spoke lights for two years now. They're very bright persistence-of-vision spoke lights that blit out patterns in a beautiful range of colors. Love em. Unlike Ladyada's kit, these work out of the box, though you can reprogram them if you so wish.
Of course, having some good bright lights is a must for being visible at night! The Bicycles Stack Exchange Blog now has the most comprehensive bike taillight review on the internet (to our knowledge):
Review of the Best Bicycle Tail Lights in 2012
In total I reviewed fifteen different tail lights. The Cygolite Hotshot performed best in the most categories, but there are several other lights which did quite well. If you're looking for a good rear light, check out this review.
A safety vest can help, they can get a bit warm but I have wrapped my backpack in one for extra visibility on the commute
If bikesandcode's suggestions aren't enough you could always paint your mudguard reflective like this: http://www.instructables.com/id/Paint-your-bike-bicycle-gear-reflective/
Like this:
There are some other suggestions on the same site for wrapping the frame in reflective material.
In addition to lots of reflective material and a good headlight, I recommend the super-bright Dynotte 400R tail-light.
This light is the brightest I could find commercially available and seems to be visible from more than 1/2 mile away in bright sunshine (and much further at night). I ride with it on at all times of day while commuting year round.
In my side-by side tests the 400R was significantly brighter than my car's break-lights. In the past 8 months I've had about 10 comments from drivers and as many from other cyclists about how bright the light was.
I use a generator front hub and front and rear lights. This setup is very expensive: the wheel itself can run almost 500 dollars. The very best of these generators and lights are imported from Germany by only a few importers, and are not widely available here in the US.
There are a couple of reasons I like generator lights:
I used iron on reflective tape on my backpack (or buy a cover) and Pannier including the sites.
Reflective Ankle Bands are good, as a driver can see the movement when you are pedalling, I also use a reflective helmet band.
Lights and reflectors... lots of it. As others have mentioned you can buy tires with reflective strips on them.
(Picture taken indoors, with a flash)
I am also a firm believer of using multiple head and tail lights. When one fails there are others to fall back to. Also I stagger the time recharging my headlights... meaning I don't charge them at the same time. This further minimizes the chance that both will lose a charge when I am commuting at night. Some pics of my commuter:
To top this off I have a Planet Bike Headlamp on my helmet and a triangular reflector I stitched on my backpack. In addition to the reflective strip on the tires I also placed white 3M reflective strips on the rims (4 each) so motorist can see the wheels rotating at night. Finally I use bright orange ankle straps.
I initially looked for a reflective vest but then found very inexpensive LED lights. I got a red one that I put on the rear that I set to flashing mode, then another white one for a front "headlight" and another red one I clip on my backpack or other place near the rear of the bike. I also bought a few reflecting tape pieces and hang them around the rear of the bike.
The favorite thing I've found for lighting is the FlashBak. It's a bunch of super-bright orange LEDs. Orange, to motorists, means "slow" - while RED is the DOT standard and required for the rear at night, I've never understood why we don't see more orange lighting.
Basically, you can't be TOO VISIBLE. lots of blinkylights, lots of reflect-o-stuff. Take everything you've seen mentioned in every reply and do all of it, and you still could add more to make yourself seen.
Part of the problem is that motorists filter stuff out. They look in a general direction without seeing things they aren't looking for. Most of them are only looking for gigantic multi-ton hunks of metal and glass lumbering down the road.
Check out Fire Fly.
Not sure if it's in production yet, but still a really great idea.
A more specific suggestion: use 3M Diamond Tape (see impressive demonstration). It is really bright. Fun trivia: the Bicycle Helmet Safety Institute tried to make it a standard for bike helmets, but none of 3Ms competitors could make a material so reflective.
The best reflective material is fixed in your bike, so you will never forget it. Use:
For every component, try to by the reflective version!
Also don't forget the active blinking lights and all the other good answers of this question!
I have flashers front and rear going any time that I'm near dusk. Once the sun is completely down, I make sure to have my helmet light as well, a NitRider MiNewt:
The little thing is super bright, enough to light the road for 30 meters ahead, has enough battery power for a few hours, and it charges from a mini USB cable.
Motorists are familiar with the 'Sam Browne' reflective belt, the 'Hump' rucksack cover or the reflective jacket, typically in yellow - or orange. To them, at night, when coupled with the regular LED flashers, no thinking is required to see that there is a bike ahead.
In my opinion there are good reasons not to decorate the bike too extensively with reflective tape. When parked up you really want your bike to be as stealthy as possible so that thieves, drunken idiots and other undesirables do not pay attention to it. Furthermore, an even layer of grime can quickly dull the reflective tape, not that it is that visible from behind (or head on) in the first place.
There is an added benefit to the hi-viz jacket on the UK commute. The filth from the (diesel) car in front will make your normal coat quite dirty. Protect it with a hi-viz jacket. Also in early mornings there can be a chill in the air - a hi-viz jacket takes the chill off yet is not so tight that it will make you sweaty.
My top tip for buying a hi-viz jacket is to buy a couple of them, long sleeve and sleeveless. Also, don't buy the £££ ones from the bike shop. Unlike the cheap ones that binmen and the like wear the bike shop ones do not have the E.U. style patterns that 3M + co worked to perfect.
As noted already, trouser clips are a very good idea. The affordable 'Adie' brand ones available from any UK bike shop give motorists an idea of your relative speed and distance. If you are not wearing them, get cycle shoes with reflective heel tabs, if not wearing those then keep the British Standard approved pedal reflectors on the pedals. If you have lost those then get a set for free from your friendly bike shop - in the workshop they will have a drawer full of them knocking around.
Reflective sidewalls are a great idea in principle, however, nobody keeps their bike clean enough for them to actually work.
Approaches to roundabouts are particularly hazardous, you need the traffic already on the roundabout to see you as well as the traffic behind you. The hi-viz jacket works well in these and other scenarios where visibility matters.
I have tried the 'terror tactic' of having really bright lights on the bike, however, these can lead to unpredictable results. Basically there will be drivers that will respond with 'WTF?' and hit the brakes because they do not know what is coming towards them. You actually want to send them a 'I am a cyclist' message with symbols they already recognise - the flashers, pedal reflectors and, most important of all, the hi-viz jacket.
Two sets of lights, front and rear are a very good idea, much better than carrying spare batteries. If you can get one set hard-wired to the bike, e.g. on the reflector brackets you are less likely to get caught out without them. Also try to get a high level rear light that can be seen through car windscreens, e.g. attached to your rucksack.
Remember that helmets do not help you to be seen or to avoid accidents. If you really care about road safety go for the hi-viz jacket before the nice polystyrene hat (that doesn't quite fit properly...).
Assertive, confident cycling also helps. Do not trudge along in the gutter and be aware of traffic coming towards you from other directions, e.g. head on cars overtaking. Light for these guys too and don't assume you will be okay when you only have a rear light (and no front).
In short: Lots of steady light, but don't dazzle.
Multiple rear lights help a lot, both for redundancy (if the battery dies) and to give other road users an idea of how fast they're approaching. I have 2 steady and 1 flashing, and may add another to my helmet before winter. The benefit of multiple lights is really noticeable when approaching a bike from behind, fast, in the dark.
At the front, I have a 900 lumen rechargeable, for which I carry a spare battery, and a little LED on the front fork - again, multiple points of light help define the shape, which is why I've got extra spoke reflectors and light-up valve caps.
A note on high-power front lights though:
Personally I can see no use case for super bright strobes either - even if they don't shine directly into someone's eyes they don't do a good job of marking out where you are, and they're rubbish for illuminating the road - leave the super bright on steady, and by all means add as many small flashers as you like.
Some of this dates back to before I commuted by bike (as a driver who wanted to be nice to cyclists), but with a mix of busy (though generally quite bike-friendly) roads and completely dark paths, I've reached the same conclusions from the other direction.
One way is to definitely make sure you have on bright clothing!
Motorists are not always watching (I know from personal experience) and they are a lot bigger than you!
Another is to make the bike itself visible. Good ways to do this are:
One more option for total night visibility:
[Light Trails – Fully LED'ed]
As a driver I've found passive/reflexive strips totally useless in the dangerous situations on the road. Unfortunately it's not working if cyclist out of the car beams. It makes him/her completely dark and invisible in contrast to the objects highlighted by car front lights. Especially reflexive strips danger because cyclist usually have no idea if he/her visible or not.
I found this video very interesting as example of using active lighting. It shows not only the presence of the some unknown source of red light blinking but the actual size and contour of the cyclist and his bicycle.
Many urban/commuter tires have reflective sidewalls. Next time you're due for a tire change, you might check to see if any of the tires have the reflective stripe. Someone told me (not sure if it's true) that reflective sidewall tires are required in some European cities.
e.g. Vitoria Randonneuer http://www.amazon.com/Vittoria-Randonneuer-Pro-700x35c-Reflective/dp/B0028N305O
3M makes some reflective tape that is available in many colors (even black!) to match your bike finish during the day but it reflects bright white at night.
I too use a Dinotte tail light and they are astoundingly bright. I have found that motorists with eye pain give me lots more room. The Dinotte lights are stupidly expensive though. The Planet Bike Superflash is the best inexpensive blinkies I have found. I put them on my kids' bikes and I can see them two blocks away in broad daylight; < $30.
Stay safe and assume all cars are trying to kill you.


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I'm running 10.04, with FireFox 3.6.x. I have NoScript and AdBlock installed, as well as Firebug and the GWT toolkit. The problem I'm having is that sometimes URLS open in new tabs even just with a normal click. I use my laptop's built-in trackpad as a pointing device with 'tap to click' enabled. This seems to happen between 10 and 25% of the time. It's quite annoying. Anyone have any idea what causes this?
Are you tapping close to an edge or corner by any chance? Depending on your hardware model and software configuration, tapping near some edges emulates the second (middle) or third (right) mouse button. In Firefox, by default, middle-clicking on a link opens it in a new tab.
When I access my computer over VNC from my phone sometimes I find that the Control key gets sent a lot of the time. I know it's a different use-case to yours but it could be that your control key is getting stuck (or you're accidentally pressing it - I know how easy that can be on some small keyboards).
You might be able to test this by running
Either that or the links are have the attribute
Hope you solved this problem. If not, it appears to be a problem with touchpads that has a solution: at Launchpad Hope it helps.


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I am new to HP QTP automation tool. Could you please suggest some free good websites that provide elearning, training, tutorials, and videos for mastery of HP's QTP software.
Thanks! :)
I am new to HP QTP automation tool. Could you please suggest some free good websites that provide elearning, training, tutorials, and videos for mastery of HP's QTP software.
Thanks! :)
There are many websites and forum that offer information for all experience levels. Since you're looking for a website with videos, this is the only one that I know of: http://motevich.blogspot.in/
However, there are other websites as well which may aid you in learning QTP. This is the list of sites from http://www.automationrepository.com/qtp-blogs/
For beginner to learn QTP, you can visit guru99.com/quick-test-professional-qtp-tutorial.html. The site has the purpose to give free education for all, especially the beginner who has little or no automation experience in QTP. The site also explains QTP with videos, this might help you...
We have just started QTP training series. This online free QTP training article series is designed for beginners as well as advanced users. The first article of this series is published at:
http://www.softwaretestinghelp.com - Online QTP Training
Bookmark this page as you will find more articles in the series as well the videos along with these articles.
Please check in my blog for the tutorials. I frequently post about QTP and other tools. There are training videos available which is free. I keep updating latest patches, tips and tricks about HP tools.
We're looking for long answers that provide some explanation and context. Don't just give a one-line answer; explain why your answer is right, ideally with citations. Answers that don't include explanations may be removed.
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Navy medic saves orphaned bunnies
POSTED: 7:28 AM Jun 21 2013 UPDATED: 7:34 AM Jun 21 2013
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This is a story about a guy who saved a bunch of baby bunnies, then posted the story online hopeful other people would like it. Boy did they ever.
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Genetic testing now allows personalized treatment. Find out more.
Search for a doctor by name or specialty. Search now.
Our patients have amazing accounts of hope and resilience. Read their stories.
Your gifts help us push the boundaries of cancer treatment. Ways to Give
When you or a loved one is diagnosed with cancer, choosing the right service provider ensures you'll receive the best possible care and support. At Moores Cancer Center at UC San Diego Health, we understand the day-to-day physical and emotional challenges you face when dealing with cancer.
Our goal is to walk with you through this journey – to provide the highest quality of care, and to support you and your family with utmost compassion. In one place, you will have access to all of the cancer-related treatments, care, and services you may need, as well as our team of experts. We ensure that, from your very first visit to the Cancer Center, you will never feel alone.
Thousands of individuals turn to UC San Diego Health for the comprehensive care and complex treatment available only at academic medical centers. Our patients have access to the latest technological advances, compassionately provided by academic physicians and surgeons who possess a tremendous scope of knowledge and depth of expertise. In fact, U.S. News & World Report ranked our cancer services among the nation's top 25 in its 2015-2016 "Best Hospitals" survey, which also named UC San Diego Health as the top hospital in San Diego.
In addition, at academic medical centers such as UC San Diego Health, world-class researchers are developing and testing the effectiveness of new therapies and medical devices. In short, we base our treatment plans on the latest breakthroughs in medicine. This approach to cancer research and patient care can only be found in an academic medical setting such as Moores Cancer Center and UC San Diego Health, home to some of the top cancer specialists in the world. Learn more about current research activities.
Another benefit of an academic medical center is the team approach to your care. At UC San Diego Health, you don't have just one physician, or several physicians from different practices and disciplines whom you hope touch base with one another. Our team includes specialists from:
Your multidisciplinary team works together to decide the best course of treatment. In most instances, we're all in the same building, making it easier and faster to compare notes, confer regularly with one another, and review your progress. And we encourage you and your loved ones to take an active role in your care and communicate freely with your health care team.
National Cancer Institute Designation
Moores Cancer Center is one of only 45 National Cancer Institute (NCI) designated comprehensive cancer centers in the U.S. This designation – reserved for centers with the highest achievements in cancer research, clinical care, education, and community contributions – makes an enormous difference to our patients. Studies show that outcomes are better at NCI-designated centers.
If you or a loved one would like to become a patient at UC San Diego Health, you can make an appointment by phone or online, or learn more from our New Patient Orientation Guide.
Official Web Site of the University of California, San Diego.


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It's difficult for us denizens of 2013 to realize what railroads meant in 1872, when the only other means of transport were horses or your own two feet.
The Old Colony Railroad, which ran a little over 131 miles of track from Boston down to Newport, R.I., wasn't a big railroad, not by the standards of, say, the Union Pacific. It was strictly a local line, though it carried passengers who were going on to other railroad lines that would take them to other places.
One of the wonders of the 19th and early 20th centuries was that every town, even towns with populations of 200 in the middle of South Dakota, had access to the railroad. The train might not always stop in those places but it would if there was a passenger who wanted to get off; you could get on a train in Taunton and get off in St. Joseph, Mo. — though the trip would take a while and you'd have to change trains a few times.
To do all that meant railroads maintained a tremendous amount of track, machinery and employees.
Along with its 131.33 miles of track, the Old Colony had 45 locomotives, six snow plows, 95 passenger cars and over 1,000 freight cars. It hauled coal, hay, people, vegetables, pigs, cattle, raw materials and finished goods.
Passenger trains traveled about 33 miles per hour. Slower freights traveled an average of 12 miles per hour.
In 1872, according to the report of the Massachusetts Railroad Commissioners, the Old Colony carried more than 3,525,000 local passengers and 185,567 passengers who were using the line to get to another railroad and a further destination. The line's passenger trains racked up 740,661 total miles or about 5,600 trips over the 131.33 miles of track the company owned.
There were 42 telegraph offices located on Old Colony property and 142 places where the trains crossed a road or path.
Of those 142 crossings, 122 of them had no flagmen, gates, signals or any other mechanism to warn people a train was about to pass.
In 1872, the Old Colony built two bridges in Mattapan and one in East Bridgewater.
Nineteenth century railroading was dangerous. In 1872, 12 people who were neither riding nor working for the railroad were killed by trains on the Old Colony Line.
On Oct. 2, 1872, William Callahan was killed by one of the company's trains in Boston. Callahan was drunk, the reports said.
Brothers William and John F. Doherty ran away from school in Fall River and headed north, walking the tracks. The boys made it to Quincy, where they were struck and killed by an Old Colony freight train on Nov. 11, 1872.
John Roach wasn't drunk and he wasn't running away from school. He was working in the Ferry Street train yard in Fall River on Nov. 30 of that year. The report says only that he was "fatally injured by a passing train."
Page 2 of 2 - In Dighton, on Jan. 26, a team of horses and four men nearly made it across the tracks before the train arrived at the crossing but one of the men was "considerably injured."
On Aug. 3, 1872, Old Colony employee B.C. Hubbard was coupling cars in Fall River. He lost his footing, fell between the moving cars and was crushed. Coupling cars is the act of hooking rail cars together with metal pins.
Email Marc Munroe Dion at email@example.com.
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Looking for a great mountain bike under $1,000? Then you're in the right place. We tested 10 of the best and lay out our findings below.
A few companies really stepped up their $1,000 bikes since our previous test.
For example, Trek kept the high-quality frame and RockShox fork, but they also add a solid drivetrain and the best brakes in the test (Shimano M446 hydraulic discs). For this, we give the Trek Mamba our BikeRadar gold award.
Diamondback's Overdrive Comp 29er stood in close contention for best all-round package. They've been able to offer the same fork as you get on the Trek Mamba but with a remote lockout and the only 10-speed drivetrain in the test.
Felt's Nine Sport is a very worthy full package, which won our test last year. Scott offer the best frame in the test, but the sub-par suspension fork keeps the Scott Scale Comp one component away from the whole deal.
We are having trouble displaying this video
Video: best mountain bikes under $1000 - the winners
And UK readers should check out our BikeRadar guides to the Best Mountain Bikes Under £1,000 and Best Mountain Bikes Under £500.
The top four mountain bikes under $1000
Trek Mamba
Trek return to this year's test with the best frame and fork combination. The modern geometry feels playful at lower speeds yet stable when the pace is hotting up. Ride quality is impressively refined for such an inexpensive chassis, and the fork is stiff, well controlled and reasonably adjustable.
Trek's product managers have now given the solid foundation a far more competitive parts package, too. It includes an all-Shimano drivetrain (albeit a 3x9 one with a 34T cog out back), silky Shimano hydraulic disc brakes and easily serviceable and fully adjustable Shimano hubs front and rear. Trek only earned minus marks for the Bontrager tires, which were remarkably grippy but way too narrow. Otherwise, this was far and away the most entertaining bike on test.
- Standout features: Sorted frame geometry with custom-offset fork, Shimano hydraulic disc brakes, appropriately wide and flat handlebars
- Pros: The most complete package overall, with a light and playful feel, genuinely capable fork and virtually flawless Shimano parts
- Cons: Narrow tires require more air pressure to prevent pinch flats
Weight: 13.91kg/30.66lb (without pedals). Wheelset: 5.33kg/11.75lb (complete w/ tires, tubes, skewers, cassette, rotors)
Scott Scale 29 Comp
Scott put together the most contemporary package in our test. Everything pertaining to the fit and handling of the bike is dialed, not just in terms of this test but in the greater scheme of modern 29ers. This covers the geometry through to the cockpit dimensions. In fact, the Scale Comp shares geometry and frame design with the top Scale 29 RC. Note the chainstay-mounted rear brake, too.
Fit and handling are further aided by the fact that this is the lightest 29er on test. A solid mix of components includes good brakes, great tires and a solid drivetrain with Shimano's SLX Shadow derailleur. This combination bolsters performance.
Why didn't the Scale 29 win, then? Well, the 100mm travel Suntour XCR fork has fixed rebound damping that doesn't do the job on the trail. A new fork would tack on a fair amount to the bike's price tag, so it's a tough sell. Scott are one component away from the top slot.
- Standout features: Frame geometry and details, drivetrain, Schwalbe Rocket Ron tires
- Pros: Best-handling bike on test, apart from the fork
- Cons: Poor-suspension fork dampens the experience
- Weight: 13.03kg/28.72lb (without pedals). Wheelset: 4.91kg/10.82lb (complete w/ tires, tubes, skewers, cassette, rotors)
Felt Nine Sport
Felt's mostly unchanged Nine Sport brought with it most of the traits that earned it the top spot last year – agile handling, a light and fast feel, a legitimately functional fork with adjustable, hydraulic rebound damping and solid parts.
It might not be the most appealing bike on paper, with its square-taper crank, slightly basic aluminum frame and smaller-diameter RockShox XC 28 fork. But the Nine Sport still scored points where it counts.
Whereas other bikes in the test crashed over rocks and flat-out rode 'heavy', the Felt managed to glide over the rough and seem lighter than it is.
Handling was on the quick side but the bigger tires and cushier frame still made for impressive stability at high speed, not to mention a surprising amount of comfort for a hardtail. We were disappointed to see last year's WTB Prowler tires replaced by faster-rolling but far less grippy Geax AKAs, though.
- Standout features: Smooth-riding frame, reasonably capable fork, solid drivetrain, brakes with 180mm front rotor
- Pros: A well-balanced package that demonstrates how the whole can be more than the sum of its parts
- Cons: Wooden-feeling brakes, square-taper crank, 32T rear cog, sketchy Geax AKA tires
- Weight: 13.66kg/30.11lb (without pedals). Wheelset: 5.12kg/11.29lb (complete w/ tires, tubes, skewers, cassette, rotors)
Diamondback Overdrive Comp 29er
With their first inclusion in our sub-$1,000 bike test, Diamondback bring possibly the most impressive package to our test. They've checked just about every box, from solid geometry to best component specification.
We heartily recommend the Overdrive Comp 29er, and believe that it will serve any beginner or budget mountain biker well.
The one place where it lost ground to the Trek Mamba was its trail feel. Most testers commented that it felt heavier and sluggish out on the trail, attributes that can be related to its longer chainstays, wheelbase and the fact it has the heaviest wheelset in the test.
It shares the best fork in the test — the RockShox XC 32 — with the Trek Mamba. It's also the only bike in the group with 10-speed and a contemporary 36T low cog on the cassette.
- Standout features: RockShox' XC 32, 10-speed SRAM X5 drivetrain with 36T cog
- Pros: Good brakes, tires and cockpit components, hung from a frame with adequate geometry
- Cons: Heaviest wheelset in the test, sluggish trail feel
- Weight: 13.72kg/30.24lb (without pedals). Wheelset: 5.48kg/12lb (complete w/ tires, tubes, skewers, cassette, rotors)
And the rest…
Cannondale Trail SL 3
As the only 26er bike on test, the Cannondale benefited from the nimblest handling feel and quickest acceleration. It was bolstered by the heavily shaped aluminum frame and unusual-at-this-price 1.5in steerer tube.
The RST Deuce Coil fork is well controlled, stiff and sports weight-saving aluminum stanchions. The Shimano drivetrain and hydraulic disc brakes were among the best on test, too.
But the 26in wheels and disappointingly narrow tires also made for a sketchy feel at high speed, and a bumpier ride. We'd also like to see the cockpit updated with a wider bar and shorter stem.
- Standout features: Lightest bike on test overall, refined aluminum frame, capable RST fork with aluminum stanchions
- Pros: Quickest-handling of test bunch, ultra-precise steering, excellent Shimano drivetrain and hydraulic disc brakes
- Cons: Small-diameter wheels, disappointingly narrow tires
- Weight: 12.62kg/27.82lb (without pedals). Wheelset: 4.54kg/10.01lb (w/ tires, tubes, skewers, cassette, rotors)
Specialized Rockhopper 29
While some bikes in the lower price range tend to feel more like campus or commuter bikes, Specialized have done a great job of trickling down trail-worthy geometry to an entry-level mountain bike.
The manipulated seat tube and shorter chainstays keep the 29in rear wheel closer to both the bike's and rider's center of gravity. The head tube angle is relatively steep and the top tube is roomy, too. This yields a legitimate trail-riding position while still producing a fun, responsive bike.
The tighter, quicker-handling geometry will make it easier for BMX or older-generation mountain bikers to adapt to 29in wheels.
[Editor's note: Specialized mistakenly shipped a higher-end US$1,100 Rockhopper Comp 29, not the standard version. Unfortunately, we caught the oversight too late so the more expensive bike is covered here.]
- Standout features: Great handling, and components are of good enough quality to get a beginner pointed down the trail
- Pros: Grippy tires, smart frame geometry
- Cons: Heavy wheels, gearing too tall for entry-level bike
- Weight: 13.96kg/30.77lb (without pedals). Wheelset: 5.44kg/11.99lb (complete w/ tires, tubes, skewers, cassette, rotors)
GT Karakoram 2.0
We picked on GT a lot in our blog post on testing these sub-$1,000 bikes. While our points were warranted, the GT is far from the worst bike on test with a mid-pack finish.
Highlights include the RockShox XC 28 fork and Shimano drivetrain. The Tektro Draco Pro brakes are okay but we found the standard Draco model more powerful.
GT lose ground in a couple of specific, important areas. The geometry includes a long rear center mated to what feels like a short front center. This makes for a good climber but notably hampers descending.
The tires also take a significant amount from the package's performance. The semi-slick Maxxis Aspen rubber is more at home on a pro cross-country race bike than a beginner rig. While tires are consumables, they represent a significant portion of the bike's cost – figure about 5-10 percent in terms of replacement cost.
Oh, and there's that razor-sharp headset pre-load cap…
- Standout features: Fork, good drivetrain
- Pros: Reasonable package that doesn't go too amiss in any one department
- Cons: Off geometry, slippery tires
- Weight: 13.83kg/30.49lb (without pedals). Wheelset: 5.13kg/11.31lb (complete w/ tires, tubes, skewers, cassette, rotors)
Redline D610
Redline fall mid-pack for the second year in a row. They offer a nice frame, fork, wheels and tires but it's the supporting components that really pull the package down.
The D610 is one of two bikes on test with mechanical brakes, which are hard to set up and keep running well. They also don't offer much modulation.
The cockpit is terrible, with its antiquated 110mm stem metric and crimped riser bar. Redline have also skimped on supporting components such as the semi-sealed headset, which is unlikely to last six months in wet regions.
Redline's idea of a 2x9 drivetrain is cool, and we want to support it. But it's poorly executed for beginners — the 28-32T low gear simply isn't low enough for most riders.
- Standout features: Nice frame, second-place suspension fork, WTB Prowler tires
- Pros: Great fork, SRAM X5 components
- Cons: Not a complete package
- Weight: 13.66kg/30.11lb (without pedals). Wheelset: 5.3kg/11.68lb (complete w/ tires, tubes, skewers, cassette, rotors)
Giant Talon 29er 1
We expected more from the Giant, with its appealing frame, solid geometry and the company's well-earned reputation for value. But the Talon missed the mark in several key categories. The largely undamped and flexy fork was difficult to control over bumpy terrain, the tires rode harshly and the cockpit included a bar that was too narrow and tall along with a stem that was too long and severely angled. None of our testers could find a comfortable position.
A few component swaps would move this bike up in the rankings but would cost a lot.
- Standout features: Foundations of a well-balanced machine, needs a few tweaks to be a true contender
- Pros: Generous tube shaping, good geometry, relatively light wheel-and-tire package, solid Avid hydraulic disc brakes
- Cons: Terrible fork, poor cockpit fit, stiff-riding tires
- Weight: 13.66kg/30.11lb (without pedals). Wheelset: 4.88kg/10.75lb (complete w/ tires, tubes, skewers, cassette, rotors)
Jamis Exile Sport
The Exile Sport comes in as the heavyweight in this division — and that's not a good thing. At a porky 15.12kg it's the heaviest bike on test, with wheels contributing nearly 5.4kg. What's worse, the performance embodied many of the early criticisms of the 29in design, with very few of the positives. It's sluggish, awkward and uninspiring.
It must be noted that this bike is at least US$200 cheaper than most of the others on test. And you get what you pay for, with a ho-hum spec: Hayes MX-5 mechanical disc brakes, Alex DP20 wheels, Shimano Acera 8-speed shifters, Shimano Alivio derailleurs, a coil/hydraulic RST Blaze 29 TNL fork, a coil spring and hydraulic fork.
Jamis could have made up ground on the spec with smart frame geometry and rider positioning, but those areas fall short as well.
- Standout features: Modern 29in wheel format
- Pros: The least expensive bike on test
- Cons: All-round sluggish performance
- Weight: 15.12kg/33.33lb (without pedals). Wheelset: 5.42kg/11.94lb (complete w/ tires, tubes, skewers, cassette, rotors)
The BikeRadar verdict
We gathered up six riders to test the bikes on short, repeatable loops. This kept things consistent and allowed us to collect as many opinions as possible. After each session, testers had to fill out our standard bike review worksheet, with 51 scores covering everything from handling, stiffness, weight, shift and brake performance, suspension and even aesthetics. Final scores were automatically tabulated to minimize tester subjectivity.
Once again, we learned that the overall package is far more important than individual features or components. All of the top bikes here have nailed the key categories – handling, fit, suspension, tires and basic shifting and braking performance. They're machines that are fun to ride but also easily controllable in a wide range of conditions and for a diverse collection of skill levels.
Weight plays into the equation but at this price point it's not nearly as critical a metric as many would like to think. In general, we believe control is key: one bike might be lighter or better on paper than another, but the best option will be the one that most readily allows the owner to safely explore the sport and then develop their skills.
In that respect, we had no problems picking this year's winner. The Trek Mamba is that elusive complete package we were hoping to find. It offers up a remarkably competent machine for beginners but one that could easily evolve into a much higher-performance machine with some key upgrades.


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Please enter the amount you need to the nearest 0.1 metre
If you need to see more of your fabric before you buy, you can get a supersize sample for a small fee. These are 45x45cm and they should help to give you a much better idea of the pattern.
Linings If you're planning on making your own curtains or blinds why not buy the linings from us as well? If you can't find what you're looking for please call us.
Fabric Widths In the textile industry, most fabrics are 140cm wide - the industry's standard width. However, some can be 280 to 300cm wide and are known as 'double width' fabrics. When you order curtains or blinds from us in a double width fabric, we treat it as if it was 140cm in width and only charge you for the amount you use. This is partly because the manufacturing of curtains and blinds is calculated using standard widths. So you pay for no more fabric than you use and you get fewer seams in your curtains or blinds. However, if you buy the fabric by the metre you'll receive the fabric in its full double width glory and the price will appear to double. This is because you're getting twice the amount of fabric than you would with a standard width fabric and will probably need less of it.
Flame Retardant FabricsOur fabrics aren't flame retardant. If you'd like the fabrics for your curtains or blinds to go through a flame retardant treatment for FR certification, you need to let us know before you place your order. There will be an extra charge for this. Alternatively we can also source manufactured flame retardant fabrics for your products - give us a call on 01394 775 670 to discuss your options.
For help with fabric calculations, or if you have any other questions about our products, please call us on 01394 775 670 and we'll be happy to help.
All our fabrics are cut to order. Even so, we'll deliver your fabric to you within a week.
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How amazing! I just hung the blind I made from your fabric and it looks delightful. I am pleased with the quality of the fabric and indeed the service I received so thank-you very much. Marianne T, Dorset
I am absolutely delighted with the fabric I ordered from you. I have just finished making the curtains and they look wonderful. I will certainly order from you again. Amanda M, Cleveland
The safest and most efficient way of cleaning your curtains or blinds is to vacuum them in situ with a clean attachment.
However you may feel that your curtains need a deep clean after several years, in which case our curtains are dry clean only. This process can shrink the fabrics by up to 3%.
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Show the dry cleaner this symbol and they will know which treatment your curtains need.
IroningWe strive to deliver your fabric in the best possible condition. However, natural fabrics can crush easily, so there is a minor chance they could be slightly creased on arrival. We recommend you simply hang them up straight away and the creases will disappear before your eyes. Ironing the fabric could be damaging and ruin your curtains. Please note we take no responsibility for any shrinkage incurred should you wish to gently dry clean your curtains or blinds after a number of yearsStretchingNatural fabrics can stretch over time, especially loose weave linens. This is hardly noticeable unless the length of your curtains or blinds is critical. The added length will ultimately depend on the fabric that you choose. If you have any concerns then please give us a call and we'll be happy to talk through your options with you.Light Fastness and FadingOur natural fabrics have varying degrees of light fastness depending on the range they are from. The best way to avoid fading and protect the colour of your fabric is to order a lined or interlined curtain.
Fabric Cut To LengthOur fabric is 100% natural, and we hope that you fall in love with your new curtains or blinds.However, if you wish to cancel your fabric order we're happy to give a full refund as long as you cancel within 24 hours of placing the order. To do this, simply notify us by email.We will be happy to give a full or partial refund if there is a significant problem with the quality of the fabric. However, we will not be able to do so if the fabric has already been cut. Make sure that you check all fabric for faults before cutting to avoid disappointment.
Our selection of curtains and blinds suitable for doors will help keep your home insulated while maintaining a smart and stylish look for your home. Our stylish, made-to-measure curtains and blinds will add style to your home and brighten up any space, while keeping drafts at bay.
We have plenty to choose from, so why not order some free samples to make sure you have the perfect fabric for your space.
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I want to get a mortar and pestle to make guacamole with, but no sure what the differences are between granite and porcelain. The porcelain ones are cheaper, but the granite variety have more weight (i think that might make it easier to grind/mash things). However, the granite sets are more porous, so i think they might be harder to clean. Does anyone have any advice they can lend?
The traditional instrument for making guacamole, and other Mexican mashed and ground preparations, is the mocaljete, which is similar to a mortar & pestle, but made with a shorter pestle and out of black basalt, a rough volcanic stone:
A regular mortar and pestle out of ceramic or granite will not work for a fat, squishy fruit like avocado; it will just squish around and out of the bowl. You need the rough, pitted texture of the volcanic stone to "grab" the avocado pulp.
Personally, I find that the ideal tool for making guacamole or avocado salsas is actually a regular mixing bowl and a heavy pastry blender:
... but even a large metal serving fork will work fairly well. Better than a regular mortar and pestle will.
Porcelain or ceramic ones are:
Granite mortars are:
When it comes to equipment, I consider Cook's Illustrated to be the Consumer Reports of cooking and refer to them. They recommend granite, or at least the one they recommend is granite. The Cilio (Frieling) Goliath. I'll refer you to their January 2012 edition to find their commentary about mortars and their full review (available at most libraries). You can read their commentary here: http://www.cooksillustrated.com/equipment/overview.asp?docid=36031
We bought one just last month but haven't used it yet.


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In the past weeks, I have struggled with finding suitable tables for integral indentities for Beta functions, Chebyshev polynomials and their like.
I would like to ask for online/offline resources and software, which collect tables of special functions and their properties, integral identities, tables of Fourier/Laplace transforms of special functions, and so forth.
An example is the Bateman Manuscript Project, from which 3 out of 5 books are freely available: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bateman_Manuscript_Project
Btw, is there way to search effectively for an integral identity?


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I had ACL surgery a couple years ago and things have been great. I've been running more and have some (very minor) discomfort in that knee. I really have no idea if it could be the ACL or not. Is there a stretch I can do that will specifically stress the ACL so I can see if that's the source of the pain?
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No you don't want to stress an ACL, esp. if you have had surgery. If it is partially torn, stressing it will only make it worse. It is best to return to your surgeon and/or physical therapist for an evaluation and possibly a new rehab program.
Even if the discomfort is only minor, the pain is telling you that something is wrong and the sooner you address it, the better off you will be. Your therapist can take a look at your shoes, your running form, and test your hip and leg muscles for any imbalances (tightness or weakness). They also might give you specific massage techniques to release any restrictions.
You may want to take a look at some of the running questions and answers to help you identify possible causes of knee pain with running. How to run without damaging your feet, knees or hips. will give you a lot of good information.
Robin is correct on the stretching of ligaments. Ligaments are like the springs in click pens, once they get pulled out, they don't go back as tight as before. This is the reason that once you dislocate a shoulder, it's easier to dislocate again.
The other thing is that there aren't really any stretches that you can apply yourself that will tell you that you have a ligament injury. There are three different common diagnostic tests, but they require the leg to be in specific positions, and a second party testing the knee. (Example: Anterior drawer test, requires the hamstrings to be completely relaxed. Since the hamstrings produce actions in two joints, both joints {knee and hip} have to be bent. Once the hamstrings are completely relaxed, the tester draws the knee forward. An excessive amount of forward motion, or lack of "stop" point indicates an injury. Impossible to do this test on yourself.)
Edited to add: These are not tests that should be done by you and a buddy. These should be done only by a trained professional, as it requires experience, training and if improperly done, could lead to or worsen injury.
Finally, even if you could stretch the area, there is no way for you to specifically pinpoint the pain and say "Yes, that's the ACL". My fear is that you would stretch, get no pain and decide it's ok and then have further injury occur.
My best recommendation would be to go in and have a professional take a look, rather than trying to diagnose it yourself. It's possible that you had a very minor injury at the time of the original ACL injury that has just gotten progressively worse over time and is now starting to cause discomfort/pain.
Edited to fit better with Nathan's request:
Ligaments connect bone to bone. They aren't designed to stretch. The tests for the ACL are basically of the kind where you bend the leg in various ways to completely relax the surrounding muscles (To avoid false negatives), then moving the knee. If the ACL is intact, the knee will have a fairly defined "stop" point, and a limited range of travel. If the ACL (or any of the knee ligaments for that matter) is damaged, the range of travel will be greater and the stop point will feel rather vague.
Something you need to consider is that injuries and surgeries can affect much more in your body than just where you had the injury. Also, pain can refer so that can confuse things as well.
If you're only feeling pain in one side while running, I would think that the issue is an asymmetrical gait. Determining how your painful side is moving compared to your not painful side would be an important first step. That would help narrow down the cause of the pain.
That said, to the second half of your question about pressing somewhere to see if that causes the pain, trigger point therapy is about exactly that. I've read The Trigger Point Therapy Workbook by Clair Davies (and recommended it to family members) and have had good results with it. If you can find it in a bookstore or library you could even flip through to the leg section, find trigger points that refer pain to where you're feeling it and see if you can palpate them.
As far as stretching goes, I haven't read it, but Trigger Point Self Care Manual by Donna Finando is apparently similar and also includes stretching. A note on stretching, as long as you stop the moment you feel some discomfort and don't push further you probably won't make things worse, but given some research has started showing that stretching can cause injury, I'm quite reluctant to recommend or suggest it at all unless you're very certain you know exactly what you're doing. Also, it's my understanding that when ligaments stretch, they don't go back to their old position and end up looser as a result, so I think targetting the ACL specifically would be a bad idea, but targetting various leg muscles might not be. Also keep in mind that if you find a muscle is tight when you stretch it, strengthening it with resistance training is a better course of action than trying to stretch it to loosen it up.


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Sitka Must See – Fortress of the Bear
There is no question that Alaska is Bear Country, where all three species of bear native to North America make their home. The vast expanses of wilderness and rainforest climate create the perfect environment for more than 135,000 bears. While … Continue reading
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Stephen Labaton
Recent and archived news articles by Stephen Labaton of The New York Times.
A Study in Contrasts in Financial Overhaul
The overhaul of the financial regulatory system is moving forward in the House, but struggling in the Senate.
December 2, 2009, Wednesday
New Rules Would Restrict Overdraft Fees on Debit Cards
The Federal Reserve will prohibit issuers of debit cards from charging overdraft fees in many instances without the cardholder's permission.
November 13, 2009, Friday
Senate Plan Would Expand Regulation of Risky Lending
Senator Christopher J. Dodd's plan, a dramatic overhaul of financial regulation, has met with resistance from Republicans and business interests.
November 11, 2009, Wednesday
Committee Allows a Break on Certain Auditing Rules
The House tackled legislation that addresses investors and the effort by some credit card companies to raise rates before a new law goes into effect.
November 5, 2009, Thursday
States Are Pondering Fraud Suits Against Banks
Unable to do much about runaway foreclosures, the states' top lawyers are thinking of suing banks for fraudulently marketing mortgages.
November 3, 2009, Tuesday
F.D.I.C. Chief Criticizes Reform Plan
The regulator, Sheila C. Bair, found fault with a White House plan for a new process to unwind large companies.
October 30, 2009, Friday
Bill Seeks to Shift Rescue Costs to Big Banks
Legislation would let the government shift the cost of saving troubled firms from taxpayers to other companies.
October 28, 2009, Wednesday
Trying to Rein In 'Too Big to Fail' Institutions
Congress and the White House will take up how to deal with companies so big the government must rescue them.
October 26, 2009, Monday
Fed Plans to Vet Banker Pay to Discourage Risky Practices
The Federal Reserve announced a plan to scrutinize pay packages at banks and deter rewards for reckless pursuit of short-term profits.
October 23, 2009, Friday
Vote Backs a Financial Oversight Body
A House committee cleared the way for an agency that would monitor consumer lenders for abuse.
October 23, 2009, Friday
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The other simanim eaten on Rosh Hashana contain a play on words with the name of the food and either a wish for a good omen or a wish for bad to befall our enemies. The yehi ratzon for the apple has no such play on words. Why not? And then, why do we eat the apple at all (not mentioned in the gemarah in krisus).
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We wish to have a sweet year. We symbolize this with sweet food: apples, honey. Thus, no pun is necessary.
A pun is necessary for, say, leek, since it lacks sweetness.
Dates would, I suppose, not need a pun, since they're sweet — but we can get a pun in, too, so we do.
Source: my own conjecture.
Since Apple in Honey is the only one of these Yehi-Ratzon that Chabad says, it must be unique, and presumably has a different reason/origin from the rest.


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M. Joseph Garassino
Kforce Market Manager
M. Joseph Garassino
He was born Jan. 5, 1984, in Waterbury, to Doreen Darsh and Michael J. Garassino. Joe was a graduate of Rumsey Hall (1999), Tabor Academy (2002), and received his bachelor's degree in business administration from Sacred Heart University in 2006.
Joe was a market manager for Kforce in Stamford for its Finance and Accounting Flex Division. Joe celebrated the rise of the Stamford Finance and Accounting team from start-up to a National Top Five performing team in 2011.
Joe loved his wide circle of family and friends who supported him throughout his illness. He tremendously enjoyed exploring New York City, especially its diverse culinary outposts, from tiny holes-in-the-wall to many-starred restaurants. He was an avid Yankees and Giants fan. Joe also found adventure in travel, distant and nearby. He especially loved his French bull dog puppy, Mia, his constant companion over the last months.
Joe leaves behind his mother, Doreen Darsh of Middlebury, his father, Michael J. Garassino of Watertown, and his stepmother, Denise; his sister, Lisbeth M. Garassino of New York City; his grandmother, Donna Darsh of Watertown; his aunts, Deirdre McDonald and her husband, Michael, of Middlebury, Holly Casperson and her husband, Grant, of Brookfield, and Lisbeth Darsh of Scottsdale, Calif., and her former husband, Ben Rodarte, of Lancaster, Calif. He also leaves behind his cousins, Jeremy and Hannah Casperson, Erin, Brittany and Lindsey McDonald, and Justas and Sam Rodarte.
Joe also leaves behind his grandmother, Margaret Garassino of Wisconsin; his uncles, Raymond Garassino and his partner, Tom Milner, of Providence, N.C., and Louis Garassino of Tennessee; his aunts, Katherine Garassino of Chicago, Mary Jane Garassino of Wisconsin and Kathy Bowden Garassino of Watertown; and cousins, Jahan and Ahsha Garassino, Vanessa Noel and Jessica and Lisa Garassino.
Joe was predeceased by his aunt, Lynn Darsh of New York City; his grandfathers, Albert V. Darsh and Raymond L. Garassino; and his grandmother, Antoinette Di Salvo Garassino.
Arrangements: A memorial service will be held on Wednesday at 10 a.m. at the First Congregational Church of Watertown, 40 De Forest St. Interment will be held at the convenience of the family. Calling hours will be held Tuesday from 5 to 8 p.m. at Chase Parkway Memorial/The Albini Family Funeral Home, 430 Chase Parkway, Waterbury.
In lieu of flowers, contributions may be made in memory of Joe Garassino to: The Elizabeth M. Pfriem SWIM Center for Cancer Care, 2800 Main St., Bridgeport, CT 06606.
To learn more of Joe's story, visit http://connectwithjoe.blogspot.com.
For more information or to send e-condolences, visit www.chaseparkwaymemorial.com.
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Joseph M DiSalvo wrote on Jan 21, 2013 10:23 AM:
" Joseph, I never met you but heard quite a bit about you. I know there is a place for you in heaven next to Grandma Toni (DiSalvo) Garasino. Though I lived in Florida the past 40 years my family was always in my heart. God Bless you and keep you well. Great uncle joe & aunt Pinky "
frank pacileo wrote on Jan 22, 2013 5:36 AM:
" My Condolencenses to the family "
July 29th, 2016
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More Obituaries
- Kendra A. Brown
- Cecilia M. Valdez
- Alice Shiller - Waterbury native, editor
- M. Joseph Garassino
- Eugene C. Falcone
- Irma Bergonzi Devoted to her family
- George Pinho Active in coaching sports teams
- Angela Liberatore Lived life to the fullest
- Rose DeGennaro
- Natalie Schain Long career of telephone sales of magazines


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I would like to by a second-hand version of photoshop as I am not ready for the $700 investment yet.
Is it possible? If it is, what is the process and were would be a safe place to buy a used version of Photoshop? I am looking for CS3 or CS4.
Thank you for your help, Erez