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its much much better due to the fact that the pushrod between the booster and master is adjusted correctly (the manufacturer swore it was good from the get go but apparently it wasnt). Still havent had time to follow the other guys' directions and get pressures or gravel test.
I can tell you how it is right now though its definitely good enough for a daily driver and im not afraid of panic stops anymore
Ive been slammed at work lately so I havent had a single second to crawl under there and get more info yet.
Any updates on the progress? I have the same problem with the brake kit I put on my 1070 Mercedes. Mustang II front end to fit the Ford 4.6L V8, CPP brake kit and 7" dual diaphragm booster with 1 1/8" Corvette master cylinder.
Brake peadal is hard as a rock but can't stop for crap. Changed to EBC pads which helped but not enough. Considering going to 1" master cylinder and adjustable proportioning valve but was hoping to get a report back before I spent the money. By the way in a hard stop I have about 1000 PSI for the front calipers. Have not been able to measure pressure at the rear because I don't have an adapter for the Mercedes calipers on the rear axle.
So, any update?
Thanks for that writeup, I just misworded the sentence about the residual pressure valve, I knew it just help pressure and not provided additional pressure.
As soon as I can find a helper and some sunlight here ill check the flow at the various points and maybe find some loose roads or wet roads to test on.
The MC is definitely higher than the calipers but not a ton, sound like I should probably just get rid of this prop valve and put on an adjustable one and a couple residual valves as well. Ill let you guys know how it goes when I can get under there with a helper.
Thanks a million again!
First off, the residual pressure valve does not provide more pressure to the rear brakes. What residual pressure check valves do is hold pressure in the lines when your foot is off the pedal. That is why they are called "residual pressure" check valves. 10lbs for drums (always) and 2lbs for discs if your master cylinder is lower in the car than the calipers (keeps the pistons in the calipers from pushing fluid back to the master cylinder and moving the pads away from the rotors). If you have discs on an axle you need a 2lb residual pressure check valve in the line that feeds it (if your master cylinder is below the caliper level). If you have drum brakes you need a 10lb residual pressure check valve in the line that feeds that end of the car (always).
In a disc/drum master cylinder the 10lb residual pressure check valve is in the outlet of the master cylinder that gets plumbed to the drum brake equipped axle. It can be removed (usually) so that same master cylinder can be used for a car with disc/disc.
Aftermarket brake system manufacturers, in an effort to simplify their inventory only stock master cylinders for a disc/disc system. No check valves at all, just like yours. Consequently the check valves need to be added elsewhere in the system if they are required, along with a proportioning valve and a metering valve if they want to include them. They do that most typically by selling you what is known as a "combination valve". That is what you have plumbed near your master cylinder.
This is where several assumptions need to be made by the manufacturer of your brake kit. First off, they need to know if you have disc/drum or disc/disc, because that changes the proportioning and the metering requirements of the brake system. Secondly and most importantly they need to make a guess as to the weight of your car, the center of gravity location, tire size etc. This is where it gets ugly. The OEM manufacturers test each specific car with different combination valve settings until they get balanced braking that is safe for that car. Now, in your truck for example if you take out a small block and add a big block, and then change out the rear tires for monster Mickey Thompsons and then lower the suspension, you have just changed the braking balance for your car, and likely your combination valve is no longer going to provide balanced braking. One size does not fit all when it comes to combination valves.
What the manufacturer described in that instruction sheet was to take out the proportioning part of the combination valve, which will likely increase the line pressure to the rear brakes (because it is no longer proportioned, the port is now wide open to full master cylinder pressure). That will increase the rear braking pressure needed for disc brakes, but it may not give you a balanced brake system any more. Having the rear brakes lock up first is bad, unless you like spinning out when you have to do a panic stop in the rain. That is where I have a problem with what the paper describes. Also in their conversion instructions you still have a 10lb drum brake check valve on a car converted to discs. As I said, that will cause the pads to drag on the rotors.
With all that being said, I know that you have installed on your truck a disc/disc combination valve (according to your research and what the manufacturer stated). It should have proper proportioning and metering for whatever vehicle the parts manufacturer tested it on. It MAY not be correct for your particular truck. This is where your problem could be. Do you think your truck has the same braking characteristics as a Camaro with a disc/disc system for example? I don't think so...Do they sell the same combination valve for trucks and cars? Again, I don't know, but if the choice in their catalog is either disc/disc or disc/drum I would say that two part numbers cover all the kits they sell for every type of make and model. We all know that there are more than two configurations of cars or trucks on the street. That is why I say it is a crap-shoot if it will work okay when hard braking.
What I am trying to do by walking you through all these steps in your braking system is to validate what you have installed and that you have installed it properly. It is very challenging to do without seeing the vehicle.
What I suspect is wrong with your truck assuming all the rubber lines are good (they probably are not causing your problem). If your rubber hoses were failing the 1000 or so psi your are putting through them every time you push the pedal will make that very clear, and assuming that your brake pedal or master cylinder mount isn't flexing, and that the pedal linkage is travelling through the center of its stroke, the problem is probably the combination valve. I just didn't want you spending money to replace it without checking out everything else first.
If you get good flow out of the master cylinder and it is noticeably reduced out of the combination valve, I would look into replacing it. Not with another combination valve, but with a stand-alone 2lb check valve in both the front and rear lines, and an adjustable proportioning valve in the rear line. You could also add a stand-alone metering valve in the front line, but I have rarely found it necessary. After installing all those parts, adjust the proportioning valve for full rear brake pressure, re-bleed the brakes (you are probably pretty good at it by now) and then go for a drive someplace (like the gravel parking lot you need to find) and do some adjusting. I think you will find your brakes much improved.
I also need to mention that I wouldn't trust a Corvette master cylinder (which is what you have) with a 1 1/64" bore. They didn't come that way. I would likely replace it with a new unit that has a 1" bore when putting in the new valves.
I hope this helps to clear up some confusion when we all are talking back and forth about brakes.
As to all the other folks out there who are into this stuff, I know I made several assumptions in my description of aftermarket braking systems, and there is MUCH more detail we could cover. I am trying to get the point across and also be understandable. What I have described is a summary of my findings from years of experience working with OEM, aftermarket and custom brake systems.
|No when it had disc drum setup I used the MC with an inline residual pressure valve to provide more pressure to the rears only. When I switched to disc disc all I did was remove the inline residual valve and add the disc disc proportioning valve. I called CPP and they said when I had drums it was set up right and now that it has disc disc its set up correctly also since I removed that residual valve and added the proportioning valve (non adjustable from CPP)
The last statement above could also be taken to mean there was insufficient volume as opposed to pressure. Like if the MC were a disc/drum unit, having less volume for the rear drum brake cylinders than a disc brake caliper requires.
Who knows- when all's said and done, you may just need a bigger booster.
|I see what your getting at, I was told by CPP if there is a 2 stamp its for a disc drum and if theres a 4 stamp its a disc disc valve and there is a clear 4 stamp so I shouldnt have to modify anything correct?
|The following explains what I'm getting at: http://www.classicperform.com/Instru...structions.pdf. If this hasn't been done, the pressure to the rears will be insufficient. A stock-type combo valve is modified in a similar manner.
|no internal MC valves from what I can tell, I added a classic perform disc disc proportioning valve, no other valves in the system.
|chevyrestore- Is there a combo valve on it? I recall somewhere you saying there was. Or an added-on proportioning valve? If you have a prop valve already in the system (in the combo valve not MC- so sorry), and have added another one, you have cut the pressure to the rear brakes too much.
The residual pressure check valve in a drum brake application keeps the return springs on the brake shoes from retracting the shoes away from the drum, and keeps the seal on the wheel cylinder pressed out against the bore.
As to the re-bleeding of the brakes, what I am attempting to determine is whether the amount of fluid coming out at the various points is constant. Example, good flow right at the MC, good flow at the output of the combination valve, poor at the calipers. It can help to determine problems.
Also, it isn't surprising to find air trapped in a brake system that has been thoroughly bled. It won't hurt to go through it again starting at the MC. If it is indeed thoroughly bled it won't take but a couple of pumps at each point to confirm it. Also, make sure you have a helper working the brake pedal and don't just depend on a vacuum bleeder or pressure bleeder alone.
Another thing to keep in mind, is that until your brakes are bedded in, you won't get maximum stopping performance. Also, unless you are moving pretty fast you may not get lock up on dry pavement when you have wide grippy tires. That is why trying them on gravel (if you can) or wet pavement is a good indicator of what is going on.
One line to the rear split at the rear end is fine.
Have you verified there's no rear brake proportioning valve in the MC? Is there an added-on adjustable prop valve?
Mate, you got me there,
I live in Australia
Just make sure that any flexible lines are not blocked - free flowing
All I'm saying is that they can become blocked 'progressively ' over time!!
You should be sure that they are flowing as they should, and not restricted through 'swelling' and closing the 'hole' off......
I'm not familiar with your particular application , just be certain that your flexible lines are in good condition!!
Let know how u go!
|should I have 2 lines from the prop valve going to the rear or is it ok have it with 1 line going to the pumpkin and splitting into two?
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The Brown Tree Frog, Litoria ewingii, is a pale fawn or brown frog with a dark stripe from the snout through the eye to the front limb and an undivided dark patch between the eyes. The thighs are yellowish. The fingers are free of webbing, the toes are webbed to approximately half way along the toes and finger and toe pads are present. Total length to around 45 mm.
Brown Tree FrogPhotographer: Peter Robertson. Source: Wildlife Profiles Pty. Ltd.
The Brown Tree Frog is a common from in suburban gardens and is distributed over much of southern Victoria. It can be found in a variety of habitats, including away from water. It is normally located under logs and other such materials.
The diet of Brown Tree Frogs consists of small invertebrates. The females lay up to 700 eggs in still water, usually attached to submerged grasses. Tadpoles grow to around 50 mm.
Barker, J., Grigg, G. and Tyler, M. J. 1995. A Field Guide to Australian Frogs. Surrey Beatty & Sons, Sydney.
Cogger, H. 2000. Reptiles and Amphibians of Australia. Reed Books, Sydney.
Hero, J. M., Littlejohn, M. & Marantelli, G. 1991. Frogwatch Field Guide to Victorian Frogs. Department of Conservation and Environment, East Melbourne.
Tyler, M. J. 1992. Encyclopaedia of Australian Animals: Frogs. Angus & Robertson, Sydney.
Keeping frogs away from a habitat they enjoy is challenging, especially when the frogs are as adaptable as these ones. As noted in the above article, it's not only watery environments that attract these frogs - a range of features of your yard may be "frog-friendly" ones. For further information about garden features that attract frogs, see the link provided in response to Mitchell's comment; might reversing some of these suggestions help?
Hi Brandon and thanks for your query. Brown Tree Frogs are predators and will begin feeding several days after metamorphosing and leaving the water. They will eat small insects (small enough for them to get in their mouths whole). Small crickets and cockroaches (commercially available) are ideal, but they can be fed wild caught insect such as flies and moths. Avoid feeding them stinging or biting species such as wasps or ants. Please note: Although Brown Tree Frogs are a common local species, they are protected by law. Any frog kept in Victoria must be obtained from a legal source (breeder, pet shop, etc) and cannot be taken from the wild.
Hi Brandon. Thanks for the further questions about your frogs. We have again asked our Live Exhibits team for information for you. Your frogs do also require 'land' are within the tank. A substrate of moist coco-peat, available from a hardware store, is suitable. The substrate will need to be changed periodically to prevent the build up of wastes. And you can expect your Brown Tree Frogs will grow to between 25 – 40mm.
Jo, these frogs pose no threat to dogs whatsoever, and will probably disappear along with the floods. Please do not attempt to remove them in the meantime, as this is highly disruptive to the frog population.
Hi Megan - thanks for your query. We recommend you contact the Tasmanian Parks and Wildlife Service for advice on releasing your Brown Tree Frog into the wild.
Hi Ping, we have contacted the Live Exhibits team for some advice for you. As the frog has made its way into your house, there must be a suitable frog habitat somewhere nearby, perhaps a parkland or wetlands. Our Live Exhibits staff have suggested that such a habitat must be somewhere close to where you live.
Hi Ruben, we have contacted the Live Exhibits Team and they have suggested you consider one of two things. You could either return the frog to Torquay or alternatively contact the Lost Frogs Home, you can find details here: http://frogs.org.au/vfg/features/lostfrogs.html
Hi Chloe - Your frog requires a mature male to grip her in amplexus before she will release the eggs, this usually occurs after the male has been calling. Hopefully you have a mature male or two in your enclosure. Increase the amount of mist spraying (rain) the frogs are getting, this may stimulate males to call and things to happen.
Hi Taz, it's great that you are concerned for the frog but our Live Exhibits staff have said that the best thing you can do for the frog is release it. Keeping it in captivity increases the disease risks.
Hi Dave,
Usually one frog would mean that there are probably more in the area. Brown Tree Frogs (Litoria ewingii) breed in the winter months (June-Sept), so that is the best time to see and hear them, as they will come to small water bodies to breed.
Hi Robin,
We forwarded your question to Museum Victoria's animal keepers, who responded with the following:
Brown Tree Frogs (Litoria ewingi) have one of the shortest periods as tadpoles of all Australian frog species – coincidentally, about two months. This will vary on the ambient temperature and water temperature, as well as the availability of food, but means that they should have metamorphosed by the time the house is demolished. If they are still tadpoles at that time, they will at least have grown and become more robust in the intervening period, so if you need to transfer them they will have a better chance of surviving in a new habitat.
Hi Claire, the species you have is most likely the Southern Brown Tree Frog (Litoria ewingi). They can be kept together as a group when adults, so there is no need to separate them. Once the tadpoles have left the water they have less need to return to it, but water should be provided at all times for the adults as well. The adults have little need for water compared to other frog species, but should always be given access to some, even if it is a small water dish. In your situation you might as well keep the metamorphs in an area with water, just in case they feel the need for it.
Hi Blue, your frog is probably too young to sex. When it fully matures, you can sex it using the following features: 1) as a very general rule, females tend to be bigger than males; 2) during the breeding season males may have a distinctly green throat, and outside the breeding season the throat of males is creamy coloured in contrast to the white of females; 3) during the breeding season, males have very distinctive nuptial pads on the undersides of the front fingers, which look like small black lines (best seen with the frog in a jar held up to the light); 4) if you play a recorded call – available on the internet – to the frog, it is a male if it answers back.
The should be fed crickets or flies twice a week. Crickets are easier and each frog should be fed 8-12 small to medium crickets each feed – don't overfeed or the crickets will foul the water bowl.
The frogs won't breed this time of year but if you would like to breed them you'll need a separate tank of about the same dimensions, filled about one third with water and with a small log sitting above the water surface. A small pump that sprays water onto the back of the enclosure will encourage them to spawn.
Hi Kellie - we ran this past our staff from our Live Exhibits team, and they have responded as follows:
A light is not essential for the maintenance of brown tree frogs. However, because they still need to know when it's day and night, it's best to keep the enclosure in a well lit area outside of direct sunlight. This will allow the frog to undergo a proper daily cycle.
Brown Tree Frogs (Litoria ewingii) can be kept indoors without heating or a heat lamp, unless the temperature falls below 10 degrees Celsius, in which case some heating will be required. This species is common throughout much of southeastern Australia, including areas with cold climates.
For details about South Australian permits, you will need to contact the State Department of Environment, Water and Natural Resources. DEWNR has a 'Basic Keep and Sell Permit' for common native animals, but they must be captive bred and need to be obtained from a private breeder or pet shop rather than collected from the wild. You will need to check with DEWNR whether Brown Tree Frogs fall within this category.
In particular, Green Tree Frogs (Litoria caerulea) will generally eat anything that fits into their mouths, including other frogs.
Hi Chloe,
To get them breeding you may need to spray them with heavy droplets of water regularly to simulate rainfall. Breeding generally occurs in autumn and early spring in the wild, and eggs are laid in several clusters of a few hundred eggs.
Brown Tree Frogs (Litoria ewingi) are not very easy to sex but the following attributes might help: 1) females tend to be bigger than males; 2) during the breeding season males may have a distinctly green throat, and outside the breeding season the throat of males is creamy coloured in contrast to the white of females; 3) during the breeding season, males have very distinctive nuptial pads on the undersides of the front fingers, which look like small black lines (best seen with the frog in a jar held up to the light); 4) if you play a recorded call – available on the internet – to the frog, it is a male if it answers back.
The frogs are presumably purchsed from a licenced breeder. The Department of Sustainability and the Environment (DSE) states that it is not permissible to take frogs from the wild, or to keep native animals as pets without the correct licence. A list of the native species that may be kept by private collectors can be found at on DSE Private Wildlife Licences website.
Hi Madyson - we asked our Live Exhibits team about this, and they've responded with this:
Frogs have four toes on the front feet (in the manner you described) and five toes on the back feet. It is the same for all frog species. Breeding for Brown Tree Frogs (Litoria ewingi) occurs in spring and autumn, and there are a number of ways to tell males from females - females are usually bigger; males have a distinctly green throat during the breeding season; and males have nuptial pads on the undersides of the toes on the front legs.
Hi Jacob,
The Brown Tree Frog (Litoria ewingi) sometimes has flecks of green, or green stripes, across its back but can also be entirely green. This seems to occur mostly with specimens from southern and western Victoria and as a general rule, their natural brown colour returns over time.
Hi Emma,
Frogs die for a number of different reasons and one of them is old age/natural causes. However, if your tank smells of ammonia there may be issues with the water and the build-up of waste products. Water testing kits are available from pet shops and are easy to use. Changing the water as you have been is a good start, but in between changes it might be useful to test the water and compare it to the charts provided with the water testing kit – particularly pH and ammonia. This will tell you whether there is a build-up of wastes in the water, and whether it needs to be changed more often.
Under normal conditions, frogs and tadpoles may be adapted to coping with dried up dams, or if individuals aren't adapted to coping then the species as a whole will be. Because of the harsh conditions of the Australian environment, many animal species are adapted to breeding as quickly and profusely as possible when the good times arrive, pumping out generation after generation until the bad times return. When this happens, individuals are left stranded with no food or water or habitat, as the case may be, but the strategy is overall a successful one for many Australian species. It's a different situation when the bad times are caused by humans, as animals aren't adapted to these changes. But under normal circumstances it's often better to leave the animals in place to cope in their own ways.
The reason it's illegal to collect and keep frogs is that moving them around may change the genetic make-up of populations (in your case it won't) and may increase the chance of spreading chytrid fungus, the world's most devastating frog disease (in your case it's possible but unlikely).
Tadpoles can be kept together in a tank with no other furnishings and fed frozen endive or cos lettuce (which needs to be frozen so the plant cells rupture and become accessible to the tadpoles). Be careful not to put too many tadpoles together as the protein and ammonia levels in the water will kill them, and change one third of the water every couple of days to prevent this happening. A log, rock or floating plastic lid should be available to the tadpoles to climb out as they start developing legs. They become independent and able to move on land when they have all four legs and the tail has disappeared.
We love receiving comments, but can't always respond.
Hi Max, This sort of information is not really kept by Australian state or federal institutions, but rather by the issuing entity which in this case would ...
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[I should say right ahead that I'm not picking on them (since I disagreed before), but when many good ideas come across from Hutch Carpenter and the Spigit folks, sometimes I just have to disagree.]
The article Maslow's Hierarchy of Enterprise 2.0 ROI on the Spigit blog from last week proposed a framework for a pyramidal hierarchy of needs aimed specifically at ROI of Enterprise 2.0. They are correct in some ways describing a pyramid of levels starting at the base with tangible needs and moving up towards increasingly intangible ones.
I've linked to their image here, source Spigit Blog. [I may take this image off if they ask so but you can generally find it on their blog post]
However, I'm not so sure that it can be so easily applied here in terms of the levels. For one, Maslow's theory indicates that humans cannot focus on the higher levels until the lower levels are satisfied. This would be nice to conclusively say this of Enterprise 2.0 ROI but I can give examples where it is very difficult to identify "cost-savings" at the bottom of the pyramid in a conclusive and replicable way, but easy to identify "employee satisfaction" somewhere around the middle.
Cost savings is a comparative; you need to determine that it is most efficient to do things with one or more e2.0 tools than existing or traditional non-e2.0 processes. The trouble is that this is not systematic across all e2.0 experiences. It's not simply a matter of deploying a discussion forum, for example, to support customers before you start seeing results (even before you see cost-savings); in fact, there's no guarantee it will ever become enough of a social environment where the vendor, partners, other users etc. are properly supporting the needs of a customer. In comparison, a support workflow, even if more expensive, has immediate results. Until the social environment actually does support customers, it is a cost-center.
However, even without knowing cost-savings per Maslow's theory, you can use survey instruments to determine employee satisfaction. Qualitative measures such as "satisfaction" work best by gathering input directly from people; it's simply something in their heads that you need to get to. This means surveys, interviews, and focus groups. However, it does get a metric—which ROI is—of the level of satisfaction, without ever having to find out if the social environment creates cost-savings. This is similarly so for "customer satisfaction," and I'd argue for "cross-org collaboration" as well.
So, while the idea of relative dependencies and ranking of hard and soft metrics that indicate some beneficial return, I don't think this approach works. The logic has some holes and I wouldn't be able to sell this idea to folks around here.


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Oct 22, 2013
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NEW YORK ( TheStreet) -- By and large, Americans aren't too confident about their chances at a comfortable retirement. According to the Employment Benefits Research Institute, 49% of U.S. adults say they either are "not too confident" or "not at all confident" of affording a decent lifestyle in retirement. A big part of the problem is that Americans don't have a firm grip on how much to save for retirement, and aren't sure of the tools they need to reach financial security after their working years.
In the EBRI study, respondents were all over the map in estimating how much to save, with some workers aiming at 30% or more (23% of respondents) and 20% saying they were aiming to save 20-29% of their income for retirement. "Aggressive as those savings targets appear to be, they may not be based on a careful analysis of their individual circumstances," explains Jack VanDerhei, EBRI research director and co-author of the report. "Only 46% report they and/or their spouse have tried to calculate how much money they will need to have saved by the time they retire so that they can live comfortably in retirement." One retirement investment that can help, but is significantly underused by investors, is the venerable individual retirement account, or IRA. A survey from TIAA-CREF, a New York City financial services firm, shows that many of the 1,000-plus adults surveyed "continue to overlook IRAs as part of their retirement savings plan." The firm says that 80% of U.S. workers aren't contributing to an IRA, up from 76% in 2012. More disturbing, at least to financial advisers and economists, is that 43% of Americans lack a basic understanding about IRAs and how they are used. That's a pity, TIAA-CREF says.
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|MK3 Focus The place to chat about general questions, window tinting, exterior body, interior and lighting upgrades for the third generation 2012-Current Focus.
|Topic Review (Newest First)
|Drof Sucof
Me: Cobalt ss/tc coupe to a focus se hatch. Traded ss in on mine.
GF: Mercedes 300e sedan to a focus se sedan. Currently selling the benz.
Things we like : MPG and creature comforts for me. MPG and warranty for gf.
Things we miss: Power for me. No car payment for gf.
We both enjoy our new cars more than our previous ones.
|Came from a 2005 Evo with close to 500 hp and a 2010 Wrangler unlimited. Loved both those cars but they were both money pits and sucked on gas. Sold both and bought my focus for the daily beater and a 78 Datsun 280z as my project.
My 2012 SEL hatchback with leather interior was a replacement for my 2000 Saab 9-5 Aero Wagon. The Saab had more power and got excellent gas mileage on the freeway. But the electrical problems that I experienced that had me stranded several times on vacation and business trips, last year, prompted me to look for a replacement. The Focus actually rides and handles better than my Aero. That was the biggest surprise for me and my wife. The Saab was originally a $45K car when it was new and I purchased it nine years ago as a CPO from my local Saab dealer.
Only this past year did the Saab start to really have trouble being reliable. The front engine oil leak with an estimated repair cost of over $2000 was the last straw coupled with the electrical issues prompted me to look for a replacement, hence the Focus. It is actually a couple of decibels quieter on the freeway and idles much smoother than my Saab. Technology in cars definitely has changed in the twelve years between the two vehicles.
I do miss the memory power seats, heated seats, larger back seat and cargo area. Other than that, the Focus is a car my wife and I really enjoy, especially at the pump!
I went from a Nissan Maxima to the Focus! I actually still have the car but it doesn't get driven by me much anymore since the Focus is my "primary" car I guess you can say.
The gas mileage was surprisingly good on that car and actually seems to be really close to the Focus which is weird because it was a 3.5 and the Focus is only a 2.0 but I think my Focus is malfunctioning so that could be it
My friends and me to a less extent miss the fact that the car was huge and comfortable for passengers in the back but hey I'm driving so I dont worry about it
Of course the technology in this car is a lot better! I had an after market system installed in the Maxima which accepted iPod etc so it wasn't terrible but the Focus is definitely a lot better. Its better off safety wise too im sure even with it being smaller.
As far a thing I miss the most I will say by far it would be the fact that thing would haul a**! It seriously enstilled the feeling that I could pass anything if I needed too (Of course I miss being able to whoop my friends in their Honda Si's and Cobalt SS's too )
and of course the smoothness of the engine and transmission. The Focus seems rough compared to the Maxima. When you accelerate in that car all you hear is the slight humm of the engine and very slightly feel the occasional shift, very smooth! The Focus you have to rev up a lot more so you hear the engine and the transmission I am definitely not a fan of now that it has aged only a couple of thousand miles. Did I mention the maxima is close to 160,000 miles? I hate to say it but I don't think the transmission in this car is going to last as long as the Nissans which is still original. The only work that has had to have been done on that car is a crank position sensor, new radiator fan, and new muffler so its been very reliable. I just don't like the new Nissans though which is why I chose the Focus
Galaxie, thats an awesome boat, post a pic
Coming from a 2006 Mazdaspeed6 Sport. In the garage right now as I'm still trying to sell it (winter sucks haha). Great car but I'd be tinkering, tuning (COBB tuner) and constantly talking about it. The 330hp/320+tq with a tune + AWD was saaaweeet!Was getting close to 150,000km and just needed less stress.
For the most part, very reliable and sweet sweet power and decent mpg. Loved the AWD as even with Pirelli All-seasons, it does waay better in the snow than the Focus with X-Ice2's
On the other side, my new FF is virtually the same engine (one of the reasons I went with it) but the DCT is the fun of manual without all the work (or the grinding lol) IMHO. Interior is def more high tech but not as lux as the Speed. Yes it is smaller in the headroom, back and trunk BUT it is also waaaay easier to drive and park. Even kinda fun to drive. With the MS3 RMM, push on the pedal and it really takes off! That kick with the dct on engagement with power awesome. Rear view sucks compared to the large rear windows in the speed.
I'm actually very happy with the focus as I've netted great MPG and received lots of compliments on both the interior and exterior. For me, this really is the most future forward looking car (MFT!) and will keep me updated for the next 5+ years :D
|I went from a 1965 Ford Galaxie with a 390ci big block putting out almost 200 more horsepower and 200 more pound ft of torque than my Focus. Also weighed nearly 1000 pounds more and measured nearly four feet longer I'd wager too... But the Focus is a big winner in comparison thanks to MPG (averaging about 29/38 with a combined of around 34 as opposed to 7/9 and ageraging 8 before). And the Focus wins the overall comfort trophy. The Galaxie was sans tint and a/c and had vinyl seats(not fun in Texas summers) but did ride like a Cadillac (could go over speed bumps at like 40 without feeling it. Lol). So definitely a trade-off fest and by no means a trade up or trade down as a whole...
I went from a 2011 VW golf TDI (very nice car) to my 2012 HB.
i like the TDI but my warranty was up and there is ONE PART, the high pressure fuel pump that costs 10,000 to fix. And it blows up on about 2 percent of the cars. VW was making no allowance for extending the warranty or even allowing insurance on just that one part. So i traded and got 14,500 for it. OUCH.
but its way better than wondering when your number is up. It happened to the only two people i knew that had TDI's and theirs were covered by warranty, and it took 8 weeks to fix them too.
I actually like the focus better. It drives better, is smoother, and quitter, and just as fast. Better interior too. In spite of my front end clunk i would bail on the TDI again for the focus.
|From a fully optioned 2008 Ford Expedition Eddie Bauer 4x4 that was killing me on payments and fuel, to a 2013 Titanium fully decked out. Truth be told, the wife got the Focus for daily commuting and I took over her "old" 2011 Taurus Limited. So far so good, hopefully they figured out the issues in the early builds of the 2012's. We did the whole "wait a year" for the Focus, didn't was a first year redesign build.
|I traded a 1995 Buick Regal that needed more $work than the car was worth. A large part of my decision was mileage driven. I bought a 3-yr extended maint contract from Ford as I tend to keep my cars for about 10 years and I was was a bit concerned about the technology in this car being untested. 12,000 and 13 months, no issues :)
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text:
Tangible Value
From HaskellWiki
m (→Outputs)
|Line 45:
|Line 45:
=== Outputs ===
=== Outputs ===
What I've been calling an "interface" is a value of type <hask>COutput a</hask> for a type <hask>a</hask>
What I've been calling an "interface" is a value of type <hask>COutput a</hask> for a type <hask>a</hask>for <hask>reverseT</hask>, <hask>aString->String</hask>. The reason for the <hask>C</hask> prefix is explained below. At the heart of TV is a small algebra for constructing these outputs. Weve already seen one output function, <hask>oTitle</hask>. Another one is <hask>showOut</hask>, which is an output for all <hask>Show</hask> types. For instance,
Revision as of 19:00, 8 March 2007
1 Abstract
TV is a library for composing tangible values ("TVs"), i.e., values that carry along external interfaces. In particular, TVs can be composed to create new TVs, and they can be directly executed with a friendly GUI, a process that reads and writes character streams, or many other kinds interfaces. Values and interfaces are combined for direct use, and separable for composition.
TV is for creating software that is ready to use and ready to reuse.
Beside this page, here are some ways to explore TV:
- Read the Haddock docs (with source code, additional examples, and Comment/Talk links)
- Get the code repository: darcs get http://darcs.haskell.org/packages/TV
- Or grab a distribution tarball.
As of version 0.2, I have moved the GUI functionality out of TV and into a small new package GuiTV. I moved it out to eliminate the dependency of core TV on Phooey and hence on wxHaskell, as the latter can be difficult to install. The GUI examples below require GuiTV.
2 Tangible values
2.1 First Example
Here is a tangible reverse function:
reverseT :: CTV (String -> String) reverseT = tv (oTitle "reverse" defaultOut) reverse
We'll see later that "
runUI reverseT runIO reverseT *Examples> runIO reverseT reverse: Hello, reversible world. .dlrow elbisrever ,olleH *Examples>
2.2 OutputsWhat I've been calling an "interface" is a value of type
total :: Show a => COutput a total = oTitle "total" showOut
2.3 Inputs and function-valued outputs
Just as an output is a way to deliver a value, an "input" is a way to obtain a value. For example, here are two inputs, each specifying an initial value and a value range, and each given a title.
apples, bananas :: CInput Int apples = iTitle "apples" defaultIn bananas = iTitle "bananas" defaultIn
shoppingO :: COutput (Int -> Int -> Int) shoppingO = oTitle "shopping list" $ oLambda apples (oLambda bananas total)
And a TV:
shopping :: CTV (Int -> Int -> Int) shopping = tv shoppingO (+)
runUI shopping runIO shopping shopping list: apples: 8 bananas: 5 total: 13
2.4 A variation
Here is an uncurried variation:
shoppingPr :: CTV ((Int,Int) -> Int) shoppingPr = tv ( oTitle "shopping list -- uncurried" $ oLambda (iPair apples bananas) total ) (uncurry (+))
shoppingPr = uncurryA $$ shopping
runUI shoppingPr runIO shoppingPr shopping list: apples: 8 bananas: 5 total: 13
2.5 The general story
TVs, outputs and inputs are not restricted to GUIs and IO. In general, theyre parameterized by an arrow.
data Output (~>) a data Input (~>) a type TV (~>) a
type KIO = Kleisli IO
runUI :: TV UI a -> IO () runUI = runTV runIO :: TV KIO a -> IO () runIO = runTV
2.6 Common Ins and OutsThe examples
type Common f a = forall (~>). CommonInsOuts (~>) => f (~>) a
type CInput a = Common Input a type COutput a = Common Output a type CTV a = Common TV a
2.7 Sorting examplesHere's a sorting TV (see

Note that
sortT :: (Read a, Show a, Ord a) => CTV ([a] -> [a]) sortT = tv (oTitle "sort" $ interactLinesRS []) sort
- runUI (sortT :: CTV ([String] -> [String]))
2.8 Composition of TVs
So far, we done a little composition of interfaces and combined them with values to construct TVs. Now let's look at composition of TVs.First, wrap up the
unwordsT :: CTV ([String] -> String) unwordsT = tv ( oTitle "function: unwords" $ oLambda (iTitle "words in" defaultIn) (oTitle "sentence out" defaultOut)) unwords
Finally, compose
unwordsT :: CTV ([String] -> String) unwordsT = tv ( oTitle "function: unwords" $ oLambda (iTitle "words in" defaultIn) (oTitle "sentence out" defaultOut)) unwords
sortWordsT :: CTV (String -> String) sortWordsT = wordsT ->| sortT ->| unwordsT
The operator "

runUI sortWordsT runIO sortWordsT *Examples> runIO sortWordsT sentence in: The night Max wore his wolf suit sentence out: Max The his night suit wolf wore
2.9 Arrow-specific interfaces
While some interfaces can be implemented for different kinds of interfaces, others are more specialized.
2.9.1 GUIs
Here are inputs for our shopping example above that specifically work with Phooey's UI arrow.
applesU, bananasU :: Input UI Int applesU = iTitle "apples" (islider 3 (0,10)) bananasU = iTitle "bananas" (islider 7 (0,10)) shoppingUO :: Output UI (Int -> Int -> Int) shoppingUO = oTitle "shopping list" $ oLambda applesU (oLambda bananasU total)
We can then make curried and uncurried TVs:
Note: We could define other type classes, besides
code runUI rendering tv shoppingUO (+) uncurryA $$ tv shoppingUO (+)
2.9.2 IOWe can use
interactOut :: Output KIO (String -> String) interactOut = oLambda contentsIn stringOut
Assuming we have a file "test.txt" containing some lines of text, we can use it to test string transformations.
testO :: Output KIO (String -> String) testO = oLambda (fileIn "test.txt") defaultOut
wrapF :: (c->d) -> (a->b) -> ((b->c) -> (a->d)) wrapF after before f = after . f . before
onLines, onWords :: ([String] -> [String]) -> (String -> String) onLines = wrapF unlines lines onWords = wrapF unwords words
And specializations that operate on each line or word:
perLine,perWord :: (String -> String) -> (String -> String) perLine f = onLines (map f) perWord f = onWords (map f)
Some examples:
string functionf runIO (tv test0 f) id To see a World in a Grain of Sand And a Heaven in a Wild Flower, Hold Infinity in the palm of your hand And Eternity in an hour. - William Blake reverse ekalB mailliW - .ruoh na ni ytinretE dnA dnah ruoy fo mlap eht ni ytinifnI dloH ,rewolF dliW a ni nevaeH a dnA dnaS fo niarG a ni dlroW a ees oT onLines reverse - William Blake And Eternity in an hour. Hold Infinity in the palm of your hand And a Heaven in a Wild Flower, To see a World in a Grain of Sand perLine reverse dnaS fo niarG a ni dlroW a ees oT ,rewolF dliW a ni nevaeH a dnA dnah ruoy fo mlap eht ni ytinifnI dloH .ruoh na ni ytinretE dnA ekalB mailliW - perLine (perWord reverse) oT ees a dlroW ni a niarG fo dnaS dnA a nevaeH ni a dliW ,rewolF dloH ytinifnI ni eht mlap fo ruoy dnah dnA ytinretE ni na .ruoh - mailliW ekalB
There are more examples in the TV repository.


text:
Speech by Her Excellency, Ms. Hilde Haraldstad, Ambassador of Royal Norway to Sri Lanka and the Maldives at the inauguration of the international conference, Critical Women: Women as Agents of Change through Higher Education on Tuesday 6th March 2012 at the Cinnamon Grand, Colombo.
First of all, let me express how pleased I am to be here this morning at this important conference on Women as Agents of Change through Higher Education. I was honoured to be invited, as this is a topic of great importance, and also a topic close to my heart. Support to especially girls education, women empowerment and gender equality are also high priorities for my government- the government of Norway, in our foreign and development policy and domestically, and I will share with you some of the experiences that we have made in this field, and also a few general observations.
Higher education is a fundamental building block for development, by providing knowledge, professional qualifications, critical thinking and analysis, crucial for public policy formulation and a healthy society. Higher education is also essential to create a vibrant private sector. Education and higher education especially, gives people options, empowers them to be independent thinkers and agents of change.
Here in Sri Lanka education for girls and boys are given high priority, and it is indeed positive to note that Sri Lankan women enrolled in higher education has increased steadily, the same trend that we have experienced in my country Norway. I have been told that the percentage of women in total student enrolment in the Universities in Sri Lanka for the moment is more than 55%.
This is a very positive development, at the same time as we both in Norway and Sri Lanka and in most other countries I believe, experience an underrepresentation of women in higher academic and management leadership posts. When I was a student at the university of Oslo in the early 1990s, we had a very lively panel discussion I remember, about this topic, realizing that even if the number of women entering university was growing fast, the percentage of female professors and women in higher decision making positions didn't follow and continued to be low. We have improved over the last years, but still the number of women in academic positions seem to decrease the higher you come in the academic hierarchy. Whereas in my country we are doing well on women in politics, still today maybe less than one out of four professors are women, whereas there is a higher percentage of female assistant professors, who hopefully will become professors in the future.
I believe there are a number of reasons for this, and some of them are structural. When the minister of education of Norway recently was asked why there were relatively few women in the top positions at the universities, she responded that the management must take its responsibility when it comes to promotions and that it is important to look at the incentive structure and the academic committees. She also mentioned the competitive culture and long working hours that can be difficult to combine with family commitments, and then emphasized concrete measures taken by the Government to address this challenge. To get a better gender balance at the top level all Universities and institutions of higher education have been requested by the Government to Adopt Action Plans with concrete steps and follow ups. The experience so far is that Action Plans make institutions more aware of gender equality and that it has an impact. Other measures have been to set aside financial resources to stimulate and strengthen the expertise of the leadership and granting gender equality awards to departments and institutions that do well.
I mentioned that over the years we have succeeded in getting many women into Governance and politics in my country. For the moment about 40% of parliamentarians are women and about half of the government ministers are. It took political will and targeted policies to achieve this, but also an effectively organized women's movement, which to a large extent was responsible for the significant increase of women in politics some decades back. Since then successive governments have invested in gender equality. An important tool in the effort for gender equality and empowerment of women is of course the use of quotas.
While often seen as controversial in its initial phase, I believe that gender quota systems have proven to be effective to change the gender balance and break glass ceilings. Based on the very low number of women in the boards of the private sector companies, the Norwegian Government decided about ten years back that minimum 40% of each gender should be in the boards. It was a controversial decision when it was made, but it has turned out to be a success and the effect on gender equality has clearly been positive. Yesterday I read with interest in the newspaper that the head of IMF an former finance minister of France Christine Lagarde, who I understand was skeptical to gender quotas before, recently has expressed support to quotas, with the argument that she likes to see more women be recognized for their competence.
Gender equality and inclusion of women is not only a matter of doing the right thing from a social or moral perspective. It is important in order to ensure sustainable economic growth and development. The World Economic Forum's Gender Gap Report shows that for 114 countries for which data is available, advances in gender equality correlate positively with higher GNP. This makes sense: as the World Bank has shown and Norway and other countries have experienced, increasing women's labour force participation and earnings generates greater economic growth and produces additional benefits in terms of family health and education. As one of the Norwegian ministers put it; "Norway's strong economy is not only built on oil. It is built on women". Norway was faced with huge social and economic challenges after the second world in the middle of last century. Today there is broad agreement that the gradual active participation of women in working life, politics and the economy made a significant difference, and was crucial for the development, peace and prosperity that we experienced. Providing kindergartens and parental leave also for fathers are other measures to support such development.
To be a good change agent, experience, knowledge, commitment and visions are important, and also self-confidence and perhaps a realistic perspective of the future. In order to develop the above characteristics, higher education can be crucial. Sri Lanka has some very strong and competent women who have been in the forefront when it comes to women in politics and in important positions, the world's first female prime minister came from this country after all. We also have impressive female role models in academia, in the civil service, media and civil society here in Sri Lanka, whom my embassy has found it very inspiring to work with over the many years that we have been involved in development cooperation and peace building in Sri Lanka.
In this context I find it relevant also to mention Security Council Resolution 1325 of year 2000, a landmark resolution, which recognizes the importance of women's equal participation and full involvement in all efforts for the maintenance and promotion of peace and security in the world. For the first time in such an important setting, women were recognized as important change agents and actors for peace and security, not only as victims of war and conflict. I was pleased to read the speech by Sri Lanka's UN Ambassador in New York about the importance of 1325 recently. I must also add that I was proud when the Nobel Peace prize was announced in Oslo late last year, and was given to Ellen Johnson Sirleaf, Leymah Gbowee from Liberia and Tawakkul Karman from Yemen, for their struggle for the safety of women and for women's rights to full participation in peace-building work. What the Nobel committee further announced was important, I think, namely that we cannot achieve full democracy and lasting peace in the world unless women obtain the same opportunities as men to influence developments at all levels of society . I do believe that the decision to give the peace prize to these three women is a strong recognition of the important work done by women as change agents in society and in peace building, it is a recognition of the importance of gender equality, of protection and empowerment and inclusion of women, and it is also an incentive and inspiration to us all.
With those words I thank you very much for your attention, I wish you all a very fruitful conference about a topic of great importance to all, men and women alike. There is no doubt that education and higher education especially, gives women options, empowers them to be independent thinkers and agents of change. I would like to complement the Association of Commonwealth Universities and not least the University of Kelaniya for arranging such an important conference, and again thank you for having invited me to be with you today. Thank you very much.


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The Star Wars Holiday Special aired on November 17, 1978. Along with new live footage, the program featured a cartoon produced by Toronto-based Nelvana Studios that officially introduced Boba Fett.
Unfortunately the Star Wars Holiday Special was only aired once and has never been officially released so the only existing copies are of exceedingly poor quality.
Note that Boba Fett carries two weapons in the Star Wars Holiday Special that aren't seen again. The first is a Sacros K-11 pistol, also known as "The Disintegrator" which is very similar to the Concussion Grenade Launcher Boba is seen wearing on his hip in the Empire Strikes Back. The second is a Amban phase-pulse blaster which has a distinctive two-pronged barrel.


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|Topic Review (Newest First)
Back from the machine shop.....
I just returned from taking the engine to the machine shop. He (Jeff) looked over the parts and said he could not tell what had caused the damage, except he thought the engine had been subjected to pinging.
He pointed to the brown spots under the head of most all pistons (which I thought were spots of burned oil, and I guess that is right) and told me that the heat had to be really great to travel through the piston like that. No conclusions however.
He pointed out something else I had not noticed.....on Old Friend piston #5 the piston had hit the exhaust valve. It cut a small gouge in the piston top like a half circle. Look at that head and sure enough, the valve had a ring mark around the rim of it where it made contact with the piston.
He said he can take of the gouge and will fix the tight wrist pin.
He told me I need a new cam and lifters.
Here is what he is going to do:
Line bore the crank and cam tunnels.
Check rods for mis-shaped ends.
Hone the cylinders.
Deck the block.
Regrind the crank.
New rings.
New bearings
Repair the heads as needed.
Then he will put the stuff together for me as a short block.
He does all of the machining in house except for the crank grind. That he sends out.
His shop has a couple of Sunnen hones, a Bridgeport 9 X 42 mill (just like mine at home) a large LeBlond Regal lathe, big radial drill, and a machine that decks blocks. Oh, and engines everywhere!
After talking with Jeff I am convinced he will do what he says he will and feel very comfortable leaving the parts with him.
Jeff told me that Melling oil pumps are what he sells and uses. My pump is a M55HV. Rather than reuse the old pump, I am going to use the brand new pump (M55HV) sent to me by the place I bought the engine from. This was an extra they sent me when I thought the oil pressure was too high. I just put it away rather than use it. Jeff told me how to clean the old one, but I will just install that new one I have.
So, it is going to be 6 weeks before the work is completed.
I did not even ask what it will cost. Doesn't matter, I need an engine that runs good. I will get the bill 6 weeks from now.
Thanks to all you guys for your comments and help. Great forum!
Now I have some time to clean up the shop and get things back in order. I will have more questions I am sure as I begin to assemble the engine back together.
Meanwhile I will clean up all of the non engine parts and maybe even get in the van to scrub down the engine compartment.............pg
So when building street/strip motors where u mainly want to be a daily driver but be able to go to the strip on the weekends,which oils would u pros be using when building and running these types of motors.
I have a bbc 468 just got done and is ready for start up its got the edelbrock preformer package in it so the cam is a little lopey it was put together right was just curious what u guys would run in it, and really would like to here from everybody...
not trying to highjack a thread
yes you are right my friend's camaro does have a roller cam and Lifters in it...
and i agree on the oil... in my hotrod engines with flat tappet cams.. i used to run rotella T 15w-40 but even rotella T as of late has reduced the ZDDP in their oils...
so i run Valvoline VR-1 20w-50 and also the ZDDPlus additive to it..
my only point about my friend's camaro is that all the engine bearings have survived using 5w-30 oil because that engine is factory built with no doubt tighter clearances than most racing shops will do.. as it is built for the street.. it has a redline of 5200 RPM as opposed to the 7000 RPM that race motors typically carry...
the shop that built PG's engine may have built this engine using looser racing clearances rather than OE clearances..
The oil we recomend has 1582 PPM of zinc and is a diesel 15/40 oil and no isses of premature cam and lifter wear.
I think all of this is a chain reaction that started either with a bad block core? maybe it needed line honed and they didnt do so..
or improper assembly.. rather than a new crank they used a turned and refitted crank... what caused the crank originally to be so bad it needed turned??
when getting a rebuilt engine something caused it to need rebuilt in the first place... could be anything... couldve just worn out from high miles.. couldve been grenaded by over rev... couldve been overheated to the point it seized.. we'll never know how they got this block in the first place....
im kind of in the same boat as my "new" engine has serious problems in it.. but hydrualic lifters dont just clatter all day long and be called "normal".. and for the same reason I dont know where my block came from either.. or why it was in an engine builder's shop... so mine, like yours is on its way to a machine shop for closer inspection....
I honestly dont think you did anything wrong to the engine... my friend ken runs 5w-30(10w-30 in summer) oil in his 1991 camaro and has since they day he bought the car new... it has a 305 in it now with 185,000 miles on it. that has to be one of the quietest, smoothest running small block chevies ive ever seen.... its so smooth you dont even hear a rhythm to that engine..... oil stick is always full at 3000 miles too..
now back to rebuilt engines.. I have often heard that some racing engine builders (drag race)will put looser tolerances on mains and rods noting they want lots of oil flow over the bearings for cooling and also noting these engines are run in short heavy duty bursts, never fully warmed up.
so does this shop normally build racing engines but seels a few "stock replacements" also?
my engine builder even told me himself that he built mine a little loose and then sold it as a "streetrod" engine.. not fully realizing the stress that street use puts on a motor.... I think he feels my engine is fine with the lifters clattering away when the engine is hot.. because if it was a drag race engine it would never be running 15 minutes at a time...
street stress is bad... I know for me my hotrod spends a lot of time idling... drive it to work.. then sit in 95 degree heat idling through traffic with the A/C blasting.. or going through a 30 minute 4th of july parade same thing... and I think a lot of engine builders fail to see the differences required to build a high performance(or stock performance) daily use street engine versus a drag strip engine..
Now we all know how worn out these bearings are. So yes, there was less restriction than when the bearings were new. (Well, maybe not in my case here ) but you are right.
I understand pressure, volume flow etc, but I think the pump was still letting all of the bearings get plenty of oil, even though the gaps were massive.
If the oil was insufficient, then I would think there would be some blue spots indicating over heating in some part of the engine, but there is none of that anywhere.
I have to lay the cause of the problem at the feet of the guy who did the build of course. What I would like to know is what this person failed to do properly when he built it?
Today I finally have everything loaded in the truck and will head to the machine shop shortly. If here is any earth shaking news from them I will post the info for you guys to kick around.........pg
I would say that even a good filter will miss quite a bit of smaller particles.. and that van is heavy enough that it is working the engine at low RPMS to get it up to speed.. and I'll bet its not taching very high out on the road either....
ive come to the conclusion that I got a CRAP engine for my monte carlo.. its coming out to go to a machine shop for teardown as I dont have the extensive knowledge to tell where my excessive valve train noise comes from..
but I do know that when I drained the oil pan I could see what looks like very slight metallic swirls in the oil so I know there is serious mechanical damage going on...
Also oil PRESSURE isnt everything.. im gonna venture to say that the dash gauge Port on this engine is right back by the oil filter.. so what you are getting is a pressure reading right off the oil pump.. all that says is that the pressure at that point is proper.. doesnt mean you dont have an oiling problem farther along in the oil circuit... and most likely that engine being thrown together like it was probably had pretty loose tolerances.. that once the wear starts creates even looser tolerances... a HV oil pump does just that pumps a lot of oil and in doing so builds up pressure..
but think of this analogy.. if you could put a pressure gauge on your garden hose and turn on the water.. you can cover up the end of the hose with your thumb and the water will just trickle out.. but the pressure would still read high.. uncover a little more of the hose and the pressure may ver ywell stay the same but you will have more water flowing because the hose and the water source (your well pump or city water as it may be) can handle the volume you are flowing.. take your thumb off altogether and you'd see a pressure drop but have Lots of water flowing..
pressure builds up as a result of a restriction thats just a fact of physics.. so the PLAN is that the restriction in an engine that creates pressure is the bearings / lifters themselves.. but if the tolerances are too loose you would see a drop in oil pressure.. so most install a HV (high volume) pump.. and get that feel good feeling because the dash gauge reads 55 on the highway 40 at idle... thats great as long as the pressure is really the bearings.. but what if you are just pressurizing against the oil gallerys themselves.. the passages are only so big in an engine.. with these worn out bearings the tolerances wouldve gone to heck in a handbasket and oil should just Flow out.. causing a reduction in pressure.. yet the gauge pressure didnt show any drop... so i think we have a classic oil starved motor here.. shoddy work gone bad that causes a compounded issue then of oil starvation at the bearings....
so one could say the lifters should rattle.. however it doesnt take much oil pressure to pump the lifters up.. lifters will stay quiet at 5 PSI.. or perhaps the lifter gallery passages were fine and tis just the main / crank oiling that was bad..
my main point here is a couple things.
1] just because the pressure at the gauge sender is high doesnt mean we have oil everywhere..
2] I wouldve certainly thought we would see some kind of oil pressure changes with worn out bearings like these.. we have bearings that have had to add .005 - .010 or more in tolerance to the journals... thats a lot of area for oil to flow through and reduce pressure...
hi guys , i haven't posted in a while because i have been going hot and heavy on the chassis, suspension, drivleline, plumbing and mods on my C2-GS clone. just about finished with that and getting ready to start on the body.
piniongear, welcome to hotrodders. here's my take, (and i had no intentions of posting tonight):
as always, i totally agree with oldbogie.
what i see in your excellent pics in this thread is supreme shoddy workmanship.
1-from the main bearing pics it looks like you have a bent/warped crank
2-from the rod bearing pics it looks like you have bent rods or a disasterously machined crank
3-adding weld to the crank holes to balance is just wrong.
4-the engine seems to have been assembled with a bunch of machining debris left inside
5-the lifters in the pics are toast, and therefore the cam is toast.
6-think about where all that metal from all those worn parts is hiding in your engine.
7-think about all the wear on the parts you didn't inspect yet from all the metal circulating through the engine.
8-CNC NE + MST know their stuff, so if they don't agree, i will bow to their superior machine shop knoledge.
i hate to be the bearer of bad news, but toss that engine in the nearest trash can and buy another 350, they are cheap enough, you will be many $$$$ ahead and you will save yourself many future headaches.
i have thrown away many trashed engines in my time, sometimes it's just better and cheaper to start over...
EDIT: and i would never ever use 5W-30 in any engine, i have always used 20W-50 and have recently switched brands for the higher ZDDP content...
You may want to listen to some of us guys who build engines for a living and have some pretty good advice to follow.
The problems your having we don't seem to have so I would say your doing something wrong.
|machine shop tom
The pictures of your lifter bottoms is consistent with improper cam break-in oil, pre-lube, procedures, or a combination of those.
The lines in the less damaged bearings came from very small foreign material circulating through the engine. The more damaged bearings exhibit symptoms of bearing distress caused by particle damage that compromised the bearings' load carrying cababilty.
The fine scratches in the cylinder(s) came from material from the cam lobe and lifters.
That HV pump is doing nothing to help you.
I will take my 30+ years in engine repair and 25+ years in machine shop experience and leave you to your extensive background.
The engine is in a van, not a dump truck or wrecker.
Most of the driving is at 75 mph out on the highway, so while that is not a lot of rpm, it is enough to get me a ticket if I'm not careful.
I have used 5-30 since the day it came out. As I said in an earlier post my driving time is 43 years with 4 different Chevrolets covering 747,000 miles.
I use either Valvoline or Pennzoil and a Fram filter and nothing will change my mind on that........pg
Now a series of "experts" are gonna come outa the wood work when I say what I'm gonna say; but that watered down oil just isn't good enough except in little ole lady driven vehicles. A lot of folks will jump on "watered down" and go on about the oil is rated at a 5 weight at some large sub zero degrees and a 30 weight at 212 degrees so that nothing really changes. Yet, I have never put that stuff into an engine that it didn't show a loss of oil pressure, primarily at low RPMs where I've always felt that GM engines were marginal to start with. My long standing concern has been engines that pull hard at low revs just don't have adequate protection in the crank bearings for the loads they're seeing. The problem is not so apparent at high RPMs, even in racing engine because by then the pump's delivering a lot of oil and pressure is up on the bypass valve. But when you're expecting the engine to grunt against a 6000-8000 pound load at 2000-3000 RPM there just isn't enough oil pumping thru the bearings to hold a good hydro-dynamic wedge and cool the interface. You will note that your bearings show the heaviest wear in the zone of heaviest loads right where I'd expect high loading to blow the oil wedge out. High load occurs twice a stroke; coming down under the power stroke to BDC and going over the top at the end exhaust stoke where it wants to keep going out the top of the engine as there's noting to buffer its acceleration so as the crank comes over TDC the rod get one heck of a jerk in the opposite direction to where the piston is flying toward.
Now a previous entry I speculated as to whether the failed cam and lifter may have put in the gunk that caused a situation where the rod bearings failed, or whether the failed rod bearings put in enough gunk to fail the cam lobe and lifter. I also stated that either could be related to neither. This seems to have set off a great exploration of filter mania. All that aside, the relationship between these failures is probably the 5W-30, again, this stuff doesn't have the Extreme Pressure (EP) element is sufficient quantity to protect a sliding tappet lifter and cam, this situation is compounded by low RPMS because it extends the time of loaded contact. This is a situation where the maximum load is present for a long duration of time, permitting the lubricant time to escape from the applied load and also generating a lot of local heat. In this situation the weak link will give up. Lots of people think that high loads and heat come with excessive RPMs, this isn't a singular truth. These are also common to situations where the speeds are too slow for the applied loads. The specific cause of the failure will be somewhat different, but the result will look a lot the same when you pick thru the wreckage.
The apparent lack of ferrous material collecting on your pan bolt magnet shows the filter was doing its job and the amount of material accumulated in 3000 miles was so small as to go un-noticed by your visual inspection. The failed bearing material would not be magnetic thus would not show on the magnet till the copper was worn thru to the steel backing. The bearing material would have been well mixed with the oil, if the filter didn't get it first, to where it would be hard to see, especially if you didn't know what to look for which would have been faint metallic streaks in the drain oil.
The only thing I'll recommend, is that you don't use any of that 5W-XX swill in your next engine, save it for grandma's Sunday goin' to church Buick. I can't tell you the number of engines all the manufacturer's have had to warranty with that stuff in 'em. It's there to get their "Corporate Average Fuel Mileage", as tested to government rules, up as high as possible, no other reason than that to reduce the power used for internal pumping losses. This is passable for motors that don't work too hard. If you expect them to do work in the day to day world with these mini weight oils in them, you've got to expect some bearing failures and certainly if you're running a flat tappet can some lobes and lifters are going to eat it. Fill the crankcase with a good 15W-40 or 20W-50 and save the bearings, lobes and lifters and forget the sellers and recommenders of "skim" oil.
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Motors prevent corona damage
Electric motors constructed specifically to ensure reliable operation when fed from variable speed frequency drives prevent the destructive phenomenon called "corona" from occurring.
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Canon EOS 700D (Rebel T5i) & EOS 100D (Rebel SL1) preview: Has Canon saved the entry-level Digital SLR game?By Paul Carroll - Friday March 22 2013 Sensor Preview
As the boom in hybrid mirrorless cameras continues and some have questioned the future of the entry-level DSLRs, can the launch of the smallest and lightest DSLR to date revitalize this market? We preview the key specifications of the new super small Canon 100D (Rebel SL1) and take a look at the new EOS 700D (Rebel T5i) and updated EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS STM 'kit' lens at the same time.
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Further readings for the Canon EOS 700D (Rebel T5i) & EOS 100D (Rebel SL1) preview: Has Canon saved the entry-level Digital SLR game?
To provide photographers with a broader perspective about mobiles, lenses and cameras, here are links to articles, reviews, and analyses of photographic equipment produced by DxOMark, renown websites, magazines or blogs.
Added by ttfatt | June 17 , 2013
Lenses tested on D7100
Is DXoMark going to test some lenses on Nikon D7100 and publish articles regarding the test and comparison results? Really hope that there will be similar tests conducted on Nikon DX bodies.
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Added by Tenryu007 | June 22 , 2013
Re: Lenses tested on D7100
Hello everybody. First of all thanks to the DXOMARK team for their outstanding work. It would indeed be nice to have the newer Nikon 24MP DX bodies tested. I think that many people are intested in buying some new lenses but are waiting to see how they perform on the 24MP sensors (d3200, d5200, d7100). It will be very interesting to see the real impact of those extra pixels in terms of actual image resolution ? Greetings everybody.
Added by RichDawson | May 08 , 2013
Still a great phone
There might be no major upgrade but the T5i still has the latest and best features today. But if you are looking for "beginners" or entry-level dslr, you should consider the Rebel SL1. Read the review at http://www.squidoo.com/canon-eos-rebel-sl1-review