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"I don't think I should lift heavy weights."
"Are you injured?'
"No, I just don't want to get all bulky."
Deep… breath.
This is the second most common request, or anti-request, that people (ladies) come in with.
Now, this one is tricky, and it can be kind of like putting toothpaste back in the tube. At some point, somehow, you read somewhere that lifting heavy weights makes you bulky, and you believed it. Or you looked at pictures of female body builders and assumed that if a woman lifted ANY weights at all, she would suddenly become one.
Unless you're in the right state of mind and receptive to new ideas, changing your beliefs about something is really, really difficult. It's one of our crazy human faults. So, for now, we're just going to deal with facts. No emotion, no beliefs, just facts. Here we go. Quick warning, there is math ahead.
If you read the last awesome post I did about toning, then you understand that what we're really after is sweet, gorgeous, curvy muscle, with just enough of a layer of smooth subcutaneous flesh (yes, fat) to provide a nice sweep of feminine goodness. It's just poetry, ain't it?
The best way to do that without getting all "bulky" is to pick up heavier weights for fewer reps. We already know that if you work out with super light weight, you're really not doing anything, right? Remember the Star Trek metaphor?
A quick definition.
Your 1 rep max. This is the maximum (max) amount of weight that you can lift/move 1 time, for 1 rep. If you tried to do 2 reps, you wouldn't be able to. This number will move up over time, showing that you're getting stronger!
How do body builders work out?
Here's a surprise. They don't go super-heavy. Body builders want one thing primarily, to get bigger. They tend to hang out in the 8-12 or maybe 10-15 rep range using about 70-80% of their 1 rep max. Sure, they get stronger in the process, but for the most part the goal is size. They use a weight that is just heavy enough to give them a good "pump." Specifically, sarcoplasmic hypertrophy. Ohhh, big words!! Are you pumped?
There is fluid inside a muscle cell (the sarcoplasm) that facilitates the contraction of the muscle. You've got a lot of stuff floating around in there; stuff like mitochondria, high levels of glycogen (stored sugar), cell nuclei, water, creatine, and, of course, myofibrils (they're the part that actually does the contracting). There's lots more in there, but you get the idea.
When you're doing higher reps (8-15 or more), your muscle needs more "stuff" (glycogen, water, etc.) to keep the action going. It stores that "stuff" locally in the muscle cell. Do enough of this type of lifting over time, and your body adapts and maintains a larger storage system to be ready next time. You do get stronger with this over time, and once a weight is too light, they will add weight, but lower the reps, but rarely, rarely do they go below 8 reps.
This type of workout, doing higher reps with 70-80% of your 1 rep max, is what will lead to more "bulk" over time. It's how your muscles adapt to work longer for that weight.
How does this girl work out?
This lovely woman to the right is actually one of my clients. I don't think she's bulky at all… Instead of doing higher reps with 70-80% of her 1 rep max, she lifts heavier weights fewer times (and yes, totally in those heels). That's what you'd want to do if you want toned curves like hers. Lift heavy enough that you literally in no way could do more than 8 reps. Heavy enough that you have to hold your breath. Heavy enough that you want a spotter. Heavy enough that you want to quit on rep 3.
This kind of heavy cues a different kind of adaptation in your system. Specifically, myofibrillar hypertrophy. Myofribrils are part of the cell structure that actually contracts to make your muscle fibers shorter, to cause your awesomeness to move around. So, instead of increasing the fluid inside the cell, which takes up more space and gets us "bulky," we want to build more of the myofibrils. Building more myofibrils makes the muscle more dense, and compact, and way stronger. It also looks hella-sexy. Once again, this building of myofibrils tends to happen in the lower rep, heavier ranges, i.e. 3-5 reps at 80-90% of your 1 rep max.
Now, of course, these adaptations don't happen completely independently. As you firm up & get tighter by going heavy, you may have a very small to negligible increase in the size of the muscle. This does awesome things for your waist to hip ratio. Also, since you're going all Paleo, and may be even Keto, you've burned enough fat away from your subcutaneous layer that you can't wear your old clothes anymore cuz you're too smokin' HOT!*
Combine this with a little intermittent fasting, and we'll be posting your pic on here real soon.
If you want more specifics on how to plug this kind of lifting into your program, let us know in the comments. At the very least, you'll want to do it once a week for 5 sets (for example, 5 sets of squats, 4 reps each, totaling 20 reps). Any more detail than that, and I'll start up again too much, so we'll save it for another post if there's interest.
*PS. In addition to you looking hotter, you're going to stave off osteoporosis big time. Your bones will thank you. ;)
Max's Bio
Max Shippee grew up in a very small town in northern Maine, minutes from the Canadian border. Growing up in the woods, and being the son of a dance teacher, he's been physically active his entire life. He has embraced health & fitness philosophies ranging from body building to endurance training, before finding CrossFit and its performance-based approach to lifelong fitness.
Before finding a fit with the Paleo approach to nutrition, Max had also tried numerous nutritional practices, including raw flood, veganism, and Atkins. A father of three, he's as proud of his family as he is of his business, CrossFit 1440 in suburban Los Angeles. Max has Level 1, Kids, and Mobility Certifications from CrossFit. He likes the geeky things in life, including Legos, lasers, and computer operating systems named after cats.
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14 Comments
Max, this is an awesome post!! I've been trying to convince some of my girlfriends to join me in my crossfit journey, but they keep shying away from it because they don't want to look "manly". I'm showing this to them, it's brilliant.
Keep up the good work, and thank you!
Hi! Thank you for this post and your last post, Max. Very helpful and the way you explained it makes a lot of sense.
My question is related to what you said about integrating this only once a week. For a newbie, what would you recommend doing the other times you lift that week? And would you aim to increase the amount you are 80-90%-ing it each week?
Thanks again for the info!
Yes Max, we want more information!!
I second Leslie, more info please!! Can you tell us more about how to build this type of lifting into our program? Also, I live in a (very) small town in Northern Maine. :) Nothing like chucking around some firewood to get a good workout in!
Max, very informative post. Hope there are more post coming soon, always look forward to reading them. I have read that you can increase your mitochondria, which I assume in theory would increase your energy or endurance. Is this accomplished through diet, or increased weight and reps. Do you have a blog were we can find more information. If not, you should.
Great article! I lift 3 times a week (one is with a trainer). I have friends who don't understand why I don't want to attend step class with them. I always feel and look better when I have more weight training to my exercise routines. I use the oldies but goodies (squats, deadlifts, chest press, etc), run about 15mls a week, and eat Paleo. Even at 40 and the stay at home mom of 2 boys, I am in the best shape of my life!!!
What if I want to bulk certain areas and just get stronger and toned in others? For instance, I want to increase the size of my legs and butt (currently flat) and the rest of my body I would love to shape and tone. I assume I would stick with high reps and lighter weights for, say, squats and deadlifts, but then move to heavy weights for chest/back, arms and abs?
thanks for the info. i am a mom of 3 (ages 3, 2, and 7 months) and am currently in the process of getting my old body back…except a better body because instead of just trying to get thin i am addicted to weight lifting and eating clean. i dont really know what i'm doing when it comes to weight lifting…i just end up reading articles (like yours) and others and go from there. it's working though. with my third baby, i've lost the same amount of weight in 6 months that took me a year to lose with my second baby. so i'm stoked about that. i dont have any support in my weight training. i'd LOVE to do cross fit but they dont have child care :) so i go to the gym with my three little ones tagging behind. okay…here's my question. i've been weight training for 3 months now. when i do dead lifts i can only do about 75 pounds. mind you, at first i was only brave enough to try 40 pounds (i told you i really dont know what i'm doing). but so i'm at 75 pounds right now and doing 10 reps for 3 sets. i do legs two to three times a week. when will i ever be able to do the big lifts??? seems impossible…so what am i doing wrong or what should i do differently? also, i do arms two times a week (other days i do chest, shoulders, back)…but i have not seen any fat melt off the back of my triceps. i see definition under it, but the fat isn't going away? i guess my point is that i've lost weight, but i'm ready to start seeing cut muscle definition. any hints?


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North Baldwin Christian Academy
We are a Church School and Christian Homeschool support group. We schedule regular field trips and social time for our members. North Baldwin Christian is an active Church school in our community encouraging Families to be comfortable with their choice and religious right to home educate their children. You know your children better than anyone and have the God given knowledge to educate and provide resources to your own children. We DO require families to sign our statement of faith, but understand we are a group of families with many different religious backgrounds working together for the same purpose of home educating our children. Our statement letter is Just asking for your signature showing you understand our beliefs. We serve: BAPTIST, CATHOLIC, PRESBYTERIAN, METHODIST, JEWISH, PENTECOSTAL, MORMON, CHURCH OF CHRIST, LUTHERAN, GREEK ORTHODOX, and NON- DENOMINATIONAL. We reserve the right to ACT If we find that the household is not in conduct and in line with or if somebody is violating against the biblical principles stated in our statement of faith we will terminate the families membership.
We are a blessed group of parents with individual ideas and teaching styles, no one style is better than another. Our members goals are the same -To plant the seeds of knowledge and love for our God and Savior Jesus Christ. Our Goal is to work with parents to develop children that are morally and academically prepared to reach their maximum potential.
We believe in the sanctity of marriage between man and woman. We Do not support those who choose to live an alternative lifestyle. We are open to all homeschoolers leading a CHRIST filled life.
...whatever you do, do all for the glory of God.
1 Corinthians 10:31
We have parents of children with special needs willing to share ideas and resources while raising children with disability. These families are willing to share the homeschooling resources they like to use with their children and hope to inspire confidence in new parents facing challenges. sch as: ASPERGERS, AUTISM, ADHD, MENTAL CHALLENGES, PHYSICAL CHALLENGES, ALLERGIES, ETC.
Feel free to share new sites with us ,exciting places that would make a great field trip for our group along with any educational resources that would be interesting to our members.
. .

subset: commoncrawl


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- Hunting & Shooting > Decoys, Calls & Scents > Calls > Predator Calls
Cass Creek Big Horn Speaker(1170965)
Cass Creek Big Horn Speaker - Amplify your calls.A remote speaker gives you a greater edge with the Ergo and Nomad calls.
Cass Creek Big Horn Speaker - The Big Horn Speaker has 75' of cable for maximum separation. Works with most MP3 players plus can be used with many other calls. Use with your Cass Creek Ergo or Ampli-Fire Electronic Game Calls.
These units feature an LED power indicator, simple to operate push button on/off switch, sure grip adjustable handle, non-skid rubberized base. Operates on four standard C batteries (not included).
- Works with most MP3 players
- 75 feet of cable
Reviewed by 1 customer
This is an ok loudspeaker for the money. It's just not loud enough for Arizona hunting. It tends to distort at full volume (>90%), that's ok for high pitched calling, but howls and growls really get it to distort, so much so it's easy to tell it's an electronic caller (yes, the yotes know the difference). The operation is very simple, it's a push button, on/off switch. No volume to mess with. The volume will be controlled by the iPod. There is a "pop" sound when you turn it on though, so be aware of that before you head out to hunt. It's light weight and very compact, which is nice. I do like the design and the construction (even the handle is OK). It's built fairly rugged. The handle is of medium grade plastic, not somewhat flexible. The body is very ridged, it's a pretty tough case. There is a flimsy hook that pops out of the handle, it's like a coat hanger hook, just not as strong. It's pretty weak, but the unit is very light, so it's functional. Just don't mess with it too much, I will probably break. The cord seems a little short. Why not just make it 100'? Batteries lasted all weekend, no worries, not sure how much is left, but it lasted for two full days. That's the biggest plus of the unit so far. All in all, it's an OK amplifier. I ran it hooked up to an iPod, and it worked, other than the distortion at full volume, and not being quite loud enough. If you are serious about predator hunting, and are able to spend the money, go with a FoxPro. If you're money is tight, I would recommend this only in the XL (extra loud) version. This one won't work for me, it's not quite loud enough, but I like the construction enough I will be buying the XL version.
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Trusting yourself to be yourself is the greatest gift you can give yourself.
Hey there! If you're reading this, that means you've probably gotten curious about who Rick Clemons is and want to know a little bit more about the clients I work with and what I do. That's cool and I'm glad you're checking me out. You might even be interested in my book - Frankly My Dear I'm Gay, A Late Bloomers Guide To Coming Out!
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Clearing Up Cancer Myths
Myth: If you have a family history of cancer, you will get it too.
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By: Anne Gill


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Laws, Regulations & Annotations
Property Taxes Law Guide – Revision 2012
Revenue and Taxation Code
Property Taxation
Part 0.5. Implementation of Article XIII A of the California Constitution
Chapter 3.5. Change in Ownership and New Construction After the Lien Date
Article 7. Disposition of Revenues
Section 75.72
75.72. Distribution of penalties, costs, or other charges. Any penalties, costs, or other charges resulting from delinquency of supplemental taxes shall be distributed pursuant to Part 8 (commencing with Section 4651).
History.—Added by Stats. 1984, Ch. 946, in effect September 10, 1984. Stats. 1985, Ch. 106, effective January 1, 1986, deleted "of this division" after "Section 4651)".
Note.—See note following Section 75.


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Sold Fu ckers. Hello 335i.
Sold Fu ckers. Hello 335i.
make an offer.
13.5 obo
You are about $3k over kbb private party. If you start there you would probably get some interest.
Were the chain tensioners ever done? Thanks!
Sent from my SGH-T959V using Tapatalk 2
Its a push but still available? This is gonna sound weird but is that Broadway in dormont?
I went up and down broadway three times today, its more level that that, if you said wenzel, i might agree. Dormont doesnt have a lot of houses with garages in the basement either, so it might be the next set of suburbs out, like mt lebanon, or caste shannon etc, but i doubt its in the south hills.
Where in pittsburgh? Is there maintenance up to date? chains/tensioners? more pictures?
That picture was taken in beechview, you guys are super close.
The car is still available and the chain tensioners aren't making any noise at all. Why fix something that isn't going to break? Sorry it took me 8 years to respond.
I live on Mt. Washington.


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|Topic Review (Newest First)
700R4 core price
We bought a 700R4 core from JY (autorecycler) for $250 CAD. It was a clean unit that had been rebuilt within 40Kkm. We plan to use it behind a 350hp 327 so we are going thru it and upgrade some key parts before we subject to abuse.
I guess that means step on the gas harder?...welly being slang for Wellington?...LOL
As delivered, the white cam has the least amount of volume but a cam can be modeled to provide less than this amount. If you have a selection of pump cams, I'd suggest you use the white cam as a template to scribe an outline on a "larger" cam (a cam that you presumably wouldn't be using) to use as a starting point for making your own custom cam.
This might take some trial and error but might result in some savings.
The whole thing w/using a bare minimum accelerator pump volume and shooter size is that the engine will need to be up to operating temp to run correctly (w/o any flat spot off idle). This may or may not be a concern, depending. You wouldn't want to just sit there while the engine was completely warmed up before pulling away, but if you didn't have a lot of stop and go as soon as you pull out of the driveway, it might not matter nearly as much.
That said, I'm willing to bet that the engine will run fine w/less than the white pump and possibly w/less than a 0.025" shooter.
IMO, there's little to be gained by fully porting the 882's- but if that's going to be what you run, pocket porting and a 3-angle valve job will help flow. A 30º backcut on the valves will improve flow as well.
In any event, don't take any advance away from the engine if you can tailor the vacuum advance better to avoid the transient ping you described.
Here are some parts that might be of interest to you:
The ACCEL #31035 is an adjustable vacuum advance can for GM HEI that allows infinite adjustment to BOTH the amount and rate of advance. Comes w/instructions and tool.
To limit the amount of advance w/an OEM or some adjustable (for tip-in only- NOT total advance applied) cans like the Crane can, you will need to physically limit the vac can's travel w/a VACUUM ADVANCE LIMITER PLATE- Crane #99619-1, #99619-1 INSTRUCTIONS.
ADJUSTABLE VACUUM ADVANCE CAN KIT- Crane #99600-1, #99600-1 INSTRUCTIONS.
Hi Guys thanks for alll the replys :-)
75gmck25 I would love the idea of that fuel injected system, looked it up on the interweb, definately I grouse bit of kit. I think though if I was going down that route I would prolly look at getting a later model engine, more power, more efficiency etc. Just a paid with the computerand loom etc. However I have it in mind for my next project, for which I will be questing for more cubes. But thanks for the idea anyway, I was not aware those systems existed.
cobalt327 (always good to hear from someone with 327 in their name! All the driving pointers suggested I already try to use, full tyres etc and I drive off a vacume gauge. I don't think I can get much more there.
When you say accelerator pump, is this the powervalve in holly type carbs, or the cam on the throttle plates? I have already lowered my vacume activated powervalve to a point where it doesn't come in too early and waste fuel, but nor is it too late, meaning you have to give it the welly to get anyware.
Haven't considered shooter size yet, will do some reaserch on that and get back to you.
With regard to better flowing heads do you mean have mine ported etc, or get a more modern design with smaller chambers? If I get smaller chambers/higher compression, would I need to use higher octane fuel?
Finally, your information on octance numbers etc are interesting. I have noted on this site some people run their chev on 87 octane. Our lowest is 91, which is roughly 4 higher than 87, so it seems I am running on the lowest (cheapest) type possible. I am getting a little ping justoff idle both excellerating andf decelerating. I believe this is caused by the vac advance coming in to quick or too much to early. I am trying to taylor it, but will probably just retard timing by a few degrees, as our 91 gas is 5c cheaper than the 95 octane.
So cobalt thanks for your suggestions :- )
And last but by no means least, Mr Nothing's Easy (I agree by the way, but soldier on we must). Am soooo keen on a 700r, as you say better gearing for the street in low gears, then the overdrive on highway. Price here is beyond a simple cheap swap, I guess there is not soo many old ones over hear. I might loook into getting on over from aussie, if I can souce it cheap enough. What are they worth over you way, either for a runner, or one in need of a recon? Judt out of interest, cos I figure if I can get one, I will be able to use in all my future old school V'8s, of which I intend there to be many :-)
Thanks again for your replies I will try the various things and get back to you with result.
|Nothing's Easy
|The 700R4 would help everywhere. Not only would you get overdrive for the highway but you would get a much lower first gear making the car easier to move around town, especially with those 3.08's. But like you said.. they can be pricey $$
Better flowing heads will help, as will a low restriction exhaust system. Using a clutch fan can help a bit. Inflate the tires to the max allowed, coast when able, use brakes sparingly, start off slow, etc. There's a member who mentioned a site where the members trade ideas and such for extending their MPG but I don't recall the name. Google will likely show something.
One of the biggest improvements can be found by decreasing the accelerator pump shot to the bare minimum required. This will be found to be too lean until the engine is up to operating temp., but will net you an increase if you do a lot of stop and go, on and off the throttle driving. This may also require you to use a "custom" reduced-travel pump cam and/or a smaller than normally used shooter.
The gasoline where you are is figured differently than it is here in the US. We use MON (motor octane number) plus RON (research octane number) divided by 2 to get a "anti-knock index" number. But we still refer to it as being the "octane" of the fuel.
You guys use the RON number, which alone is higher than our rating by about 5 numbers, i.e. your 95 octane is our 90 octane, give or take.
You didn't say what cam you have, but it sounds like you might not get much more from a cam change. Something in the 204/214 (or even milder) range would probably be a good choice.
I think the simplest (but not cheapest) way to increase your fuel mileage might be to use one of the simple TBI fuel injection systems like the FAST EZ-EFI product. It will cost you about 2k if you also buy the high pressure fuel pump (which it needs), but the computer control will do a lot to help with your gas mileage.
Fuel injection may not win out over carburetors for horsepower, but it is a lot more predictable for fuel mileage.
hi frisco, thanks very much for your reply.
I have implemented plan A, and am now saving myself 5 cents a litre by using 91 octance gas. I have asked several people about this, and everyone, including the dyno chap said it would run like $^% on a lower octane. They were wrong. So excellent suggestion thanks.
I have priced a second hand 700r4, and thats clearly not going to happen. Just over $2k, more if its ackward to fit.
The reason I mentioned the diff is that mine has been on the way out for the last 7 years, so I thought if I have to change it I might go for 2.78:1 diff. Am I right in assuming the revs at 100ks would come down by 300rpm? I understand what you mean about losing some performance but does the fact the engine produces torque down low on the rev range mean it would find it reasonably easy to turn a lower ratio diff?
At present its reving at 2350 rpm at 100ks. I assume the reason it is not 3080 rpms is the different rear wheel size, 17" rather than 14" or 13". I figure if the revs come down to around 2000 that surely has to make a milage difference?
Oh and i do have a 4 cyl jappa for work etc, this is my weekend car, meant for long trips up country, so any savings in gas means I have more to spend on beer when I get there :-)
Thanks again for your help
Actually just found this post below somewhere. My rear tyres are 24" which seems to me to indicate it already has a 2.78 diff instead of the 3.08 I had thought.
Submissions by Jacks:
For what it's worth. Below is a formula to use that might save you $$$$
To get M.P.H. divide K.P.H. by 1.6 example (96KPH=60MPH)
At 60 MPH, x Axle ratio x 336/Tyre Diameter = R.P.M.@60 M.P.H
RATIO: Equals tail shaft turns, to one revolution of wheel.
DIAMETER = Measure tyre height from top to ground with tape.
Listed below, examples of R.P.M @ 60 M.P.H (96K.P.H)
Diff Ratio vs Tyre Diameter Diff Ratio
24" 26" 28" 30" 32" 34" 36" 38" 40" 42"
2.18 1831 1690 1570 1465 1373 1293 1221 1157 1099 1046
2.50 2100 1938 1800 1680 1575 1482 1400 1326 1269 1200
2.74 2301 2124 1973 1841 1726 1625 1534 1454 1381 1351
3.08 2587 2388 2218 2070 1940 1826 1725 1634 1552 1478
3.23 2713 2504 2326 2170 2035 1951 1809 1714 1628 1550
3.50 2940 2714 2520 2350 2205 2075 1960 1857 1764 1680
3.73 3133 2892 2686 2507 2349 2212 2089 1979 1880 1790
3.90 3276 3024 2808 2621 2457 2312 2184 2069 1966 1872
4.10 3444 3179 2952 2755 2583 2431 2296 2175 2068 1698
4.56 3830 3536 3283 3064 2873 2704 2554 2419 2298 2189
4.88 4099 3784 3513 3279 3074 2894 2733 2589 2460 2342
Might be something for all to use.
It will give you a guide as to what your Revs will be.
Knowing Diff Ratio & Tyre Size, at a given speed.
Without taking your vehicle for a run & no tachometer required. Hope it helps
Well it sounds like a fairly nice combo for the street.
Obviously from your statement it really is not what you want though.
Going to an overdrive trans will only benefit if your normal driving is at freeway speeds.
Depending on how you drive, a standard shift trans might help in the MPG area.
Going to a higher (lower numerically) rear gear ratio than what you currently have will once again primarily only help at freeway speeds. Around town in stop and go traffic the performance will be so sluggish that your mileage will actually go down.
Swapping the heads for higher compression will not help. As it is you are running an octane higher than what your combo should require. Your engine should run fine on 87 octane and that is less expensive than the octane you are presently running of 98. Why are you using that octane of gas with the low compression heads?
Swapping the cam to one closer to the stock factory specs might help by 1-2 MPG and will decrease your overall performance.
Pull the V-8 and swap in a straight six and you should gain a few MPG.
Best bet for you is to sell that car and buy a cheap compact 4 cylinder grocery getter.
chevy milage best option, transmission, heads or rear end
Hi everyone,
Just a quick couple of questions relating to milage on a chevy.
Car is 68-69 327 chev, 3608 pound car, 350 turbo trans, very mild cam, Barry Grant Demon Jnr Carb 625, Edlebrook Performer RPM manifold, crappy 882 heads (75cc? low compression?) running either 95 or 98 octane, HEI, recently reconditioned, running full manifold vacume advance.
I have been trying to tune it myself for the last few months, and recently took it to a dyno to see if I was in the ballpark. They were happy with the carb tuning, and couldn't improve the timing curve, so I though I did ok. The motor has loads of torque at low revs, about 850nm, but it drops off rapidly so its only about 170 rwhp.
The end result is that there is no further room for improving the MPG. At present it is achieving 14 MPG, and it doesnt seem to matter too much whether it is highway or city, always returns about the same MPG.
So, seeing as I can't get any more improvements thru tuning, I am wondering what the best option would be to try to get a few more MPG, would love to get to 18 or 20.
Three options I can think of, wondering which would have the biggest effect on milage.
1. REplacing the th350 trans with a 700r4 (very costly but option 1 still.)
2. Changing rear end. At present has a 3.08, I believe there is a 2.78:1 ratio, I am guessing but woud this drop the revs about 300 rpm? Would the torque at low revs motor still be able to get this thing moving ok?
3. 3rd option, would fitting smaller chamber more modern heads help the MPG by increasing compression ratio etc?
4. Just thought of this, would changing the cam to one that produces torque at a higher rev range have any positive effect on the milage? On the assumption that higher horsepower engine requires less effort to get the car moving or keep it going?
So thats all I can think of. I drive like a nana, not after power or speed, more just a car I can afford to drive!
I would be very grateful for any ideas or options you can think of to try to get another 2-4 (or better) MPG, and any comments or suggestions on the 4 options above would be much apreciated.
Cheers guys
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SailNet Community (http://www.sailnet.com/forums/)
- Seamanship & Navigation (http://www.sailnet.com/forums/seamanship-navigation/)
- - Ketch/Yawl Handling (http://www.sailnet.com/forums/seamanship-navigation/10050-ketch-yawl-handling.html)
Ketch/Yawl Handling
Can anyone provide guidance regarding the differences between handling a sloop and a ketch/yawl?
Any online references would also be handy.
Ketch/Yawl Handling
This is a draft of a discussion comparing all types of rigs that I wrote for a different purpose but which answer your question.
The next topic in our ongoing discussion on selecting the ideal boat is rigs. Like most of the topics to date, there is no single universally 'right answer' when it comes to the topic of rigs. Boats are designed as systems and the each of the various rig types have their purpose and are best suited to particular hull types, and applications. The quality of the design is also important as a poorly designed rig of any type can make for a miserable sailing vessel that is hard on the crew and the boat alike.
Cutter and Sloop rig
These are the most common rigs being produced today. In current usage these terms are applied quite loosely as compared to their more traditional definitions. Traditionally the sloop rig was a rig with a single mast located forward of 50% of the length of the sailplan. In this traditional definition a sloop could have multiple jibs. Cutters had a rig with a single mast located 50% of the length of the sailplan or further aft, multiple headsails and in older definitions, a reefing bowsprit (a bowsprit that could be withdrawn in heavy going). Somewhere in the 1950''s or 1960''s there was a shift in these definitions such that a sloop only flew one headsail and a cutter had multiple headsails and mast position became irrelevant. For the sake of this discussion I assume we are discussing the modern definition of a sloop and a cutter.
Historically, when sail handling hardware was primitive and sails were far more stretchy than they are today, the smaller headsails and mainsail of a traditional cutter were easier to handle and with less sail stretch, allowed earlier cutters to be more weatherly (sail closer to the wind) than the sloops of the day. With the invention of lower stretch sailcloth and geared winches, cutters quickly lost their earlier advantage.
Today sloops are generally closer winded and easier to handle. Their smaller jibs and larger mainsail sailplan are easier to power up and down. Without a jibstay to drag the Genoa across, sloops are generally easier to tack. With less hardware sloops are less expensive to build.
Sloops come in a couple varieties, masthead and fractional. In a masthead rig the forestay and jib originates at the masthead. In a fractional rig, the forestay originated some fraction of the mast height down from the masthead. Historically, sloops were traditionally fractionally rigged. Fractional rigs tend to give the most drive per square foot of sail area. Their smaller jibs are easier to tack and they reef down to a snug masthead rig. Today they are often proportioned so that they do not need overlapping headsails, making them even easier to sail. One of the major advantages of a fractional rigs is the ability when combined with a flexible mast, is the ability to use the backstay to control mast bend. Increasing backstay tension does a lot of things on a fractional rig: it tensions the forestay flattening the jib, and induces mast bend, which flattens the mainsail and opens the leech of the sail. This allows quick depowering as the wind increases and allows a fractional rig to sail in a wider wind speed range than masthead rig without reefing, although arguably requiring a bit more sail trimming skills.
While fractional rigs used to require running backstays, better materials and design approaches have pretty much eliminated the need for running backstays. That said, fractional rigs intended for offshore use, will often have running backstays that are only rigged in heavy weather once the mainsail has been reefed. The geometry of these running backstays typically allows the boat to be tacked without tacking the running backstays.
Masthead rigs came into popularity in the 1950''s primarily in response to racing rating rules that under-penalized jibs and spinnakers and so promoted bigger headsails. Masthead sloops tend to be simpler rigs to build and adjust. They tend to be more dependent on large headsails and so are harder to tack and also require a larger headsail inventory if performance is important. Mast bend is harder to control and so bigger masthead rigs will often have a babystay that can be tensioned to induce mast bend in the same way as a fractional rig does. Dragging a Genoa over the babystay makes tacking a bit more difficult and slower. While roller furling allows a wider wind range for a given Genoa, there is a real limit (typically cited 10% to 15%) to how much a Genoa can be roller furled and still maintain a safely flat shape.
Cutters, which had pretty much dropped out of popularity during a period from the end of WWII until the early 1970''s, came back into popularity with a vengeance in the early 1970''s as an offshore cruising rig. In theory, the presence of multiple jibs allows the forestaysail to be dropped or completely furled, and when combined with a reefed mainsail, and the full staysail, results in a very compact heavy weather rig (similar to the proportions of a fractional rigged sloop with a reef in the mainsail). As a result the cutter rig is often cited as the ideal offshore rig. While that is the theory, it rarely works out that the staysail is properly proportioned, (either too small for normal sailing needs and for the lower end of the high wind range (say 20-30 knots) or too large for higher windspeeds) and of a sail cloth that makes sense as a heavy weather sail or which is too heavy for day to day sailing in more moderate conditions. Also when these sails are proportioned small enough to be used as heavy weather sails, these rigs will often develop a lot of weather helm when being sailed in winds that are too slow to use a double reefed mainsail. Like fractional rigs, cutter rigs intended for offshore use, will often have running backstays that are only rigged in heavy weather once the mainsail has been reefed. Unlike the fractional rig, the geometry of these running backstays typically requires that the running backstays be tacked whenever the boat is tacked.
Cutters make a less successful rig for coastal sailing. Generally cutters tend to have snug rigs that depend on larger Genoas for light air performance. Tacking these large Genoas through the narrow slot between the jibstay and forestay is a much harder operation than tacking a sloop. As a result many of today''s cutters have a removable jibstay that can be rigged in heavier winds. This somewhat reduces the advantage of a cutter rig (i.e. having a permanently rigged and ready to fly small, heavy weather jib).
Cutters these days generally do not point as close to the wind as similar sized sloops. Because of the need to keep the slots of both headsails open enough to permit good airflow, the headsails on a cutter cannot be sheeted as tightly as the jib on a sloop without choking off the airflow in the slot. Since cutters are generally associated with the less efficient underbodies that are typical of offshore boats this is less of a problem that it might sound. Cutters also give away some performance on deep broad reaches and when heading downwind because the Genoa acts in the bad air of the staysail.
Yawls and Ketches:
As I said at the start of this discussion, boats are systems and when it comes to one size fits all answers, there is no single right answer when it comes to yawls and ketches either. A Yawl is a rig with two masts and the after mast (the mast that is further aft or further back in the boat) is aft of the rudder. A ketch is a rig with two masts, the after mast is forward of the rudder. Either rig can have either a single jib or multiple jibs. When a Yawl or a Ketch has multiple jibs it is referred to a Yawl or a Ketch with multiple headsails. It is considered lubberly to refer to that rig as a ''cutter ketch'' or ''cutter Yawl''.
I lump yawls and ketches together here because the share many similar characteristics. Ketches, in one form or another, have been around for a very long time. In the days before winches, light weight- low stretch sail cloth, high strength- low stretch line, and low friction blocks, breaking a rig into a lot of smaller sails made sense. It made it easier to manhandle the sails and make adjustments. Stretch was minimized so the sails powered up less in a gust and although multiple small sails are less efficient, the hulls were so inefficient that the loss of sail efficiency did not hurt much. Multiple masts, along with bowsprits and boomkins, allowed boats to have more sail area that would be spread out closer to the water. In a time of stone internal ballasting, and high drag in relatinship to stability, this was important as it maximized the amount of drive while minimizing heeling. In theory, multiple masts meant more luff length and more luff length meant more drive forces to windward. But multiple masts also meant more weight and much more drag. There are also issues of down draft interference, meaning that one sail is operating in the disturbed and turbulent air of the sails in front of it, which also greatly reduces the efficiency of multi mast rigs.
Yawls really came into being as race rule beaters. They are first seen in the 1920''s as a rule beater under the Universal and International rules. They continued to be popular under the CCA rule as well. Under these rules, the sail area of jibs and mizzens were pretty much ignored in the rating. This popularized the masthead rig and the yawl.
There was a basis for not measuring the sail area of a yawl under these rules. On a yawl going to windward, the mizzenmast and sail generally actually produce more drag than they do drive. This is because the mizzen is sailing in really turbulent air and has to be over trimmed to keep from luffing which can effectively act as an airbrake. This is slightly less of the case on a ketch where the size of the mizzen is large enough to provide a larger percentage of the drive.
Downwind mizzens also are a problem. In this case the mizzen is forcing the main or foresail to operate in their bad air and so again the mizzen is not adding as much to the speed of the boat as they are taking away. BUT in the predominantly reaching races that were typical of offshore races of that era they offered a number of advantages. First of all on a reach the sails are not acting in the slipstream of each other and so each contributes a fair amount of drive for the drag produced. Also with the advent of lightweight low stretch sailcloths, mizzen staysails, which are great reaching sails, came into widespread usage in racing. Here again a ketch has the advantage of having a taller mizzen and so can fly a bigger mizzen staysail.
It might be helpful to compare yawl and ketch rigs to sloops. The broad generalities are that for a given sail area a sloop rig will generate a greater drive for the amount of drag generated pretty much on all points of sail. That means that a sloop will be faster or will require less sail area to go the same speed. Sloops are particularly better than Multi spar rigs such as Yawls and Ketches on a beat or on a run. A sloop rig would tend to be taller for a given sail area. This means it would be better in lighter air but it potentially might heel more, or need to be depowered or reefed sooner as the breeze picks up.
Sloops work best on boats with reasonably modern underbodies. Both are more efficient and so can point higher and make less leeway.
Ketch and Yawl rigs work best with heavier boats with less efficient underbodies such as full keels and deeply Vee''d hull forms. These hull forms often need a lot more drive and the hull is the limiting factor in how fast or how close-winded the boat will be. The yawl or ketch rig''s lack of windward ability is less of a liability when placed on a hull that similarly lacks windward ability. Also, the ability of a ketch or yawl to carry more sail with less heeling moment also makes it a natural for a heavier hull form which often has comparatively little stability when compared to the amount of drive required to make a heavy boat move.
Much is made of the ketch or yawl''s ability to be balanced to help with self-steering, to hove to, or the ability to simply sail under Jib and mizzen in a blow. This is one aspect that a traditional ketch or yawl has over a traditional sloop. It is not so true of modern sloops. Modern (especially fractional) sloops can be easily depowered and that reduces the need to reef. With modern slab reefing gear, reefing is far more easily accomplished than dropping the mainsail to the deck on a yawl or ketch. In a properly designed sloop balance is just not all that hard to achieve.
The performance of all three rigs, both on broad reaches and in lighter air, can be improved by the ability to carry kites of different types.
In terms of comfort at sea, ketch and yawl rigs push the weight of the spars closer to the ends of the boat which can increase pitch angles, albeit, while perhaps slowing pitching rates. The taller rigs of a sloop tend to increase roll angles while slowing roll rates.
Then there are structural issues. It is often difficult to properly stay a ketch or yawl rig as the mainmast backstay often need to be routed around the mizzen and the forward load component of the mizzen if often taken by the top of the mainmast. It is also often difficult to get proper aft staying on the mizzen of a ketch or yawl as well. These structural issues are particularly pronounced on Yawls where the mast is so far aft in the boat that on a traditional boat it is hard to get adequate staying base widths.
Many of the early fiberglass yawls were very poorly engineered. I heard the story of how the Bristol 40 became a yawl. It seems that Clint Pearson (who owned Bristol) had started to build a Bristol 40 sloop on order for a particular customer. As the boat was nearing completion the prospective owner bailed out leaving Mr. Pearson with bit of a problem. Almost at the same time came an enquiry about the availability of a Bristol 40 yawl for prompt delivery for a different person. Without hesitation the potential buyer was told that they happened to have a yawl that was almost finished and would be available in a few weeks. Bristol was building a 24 foot Corsair and they took a mast and rigging from a Corsair and used that for the mizzen. A block of wood was glassed onto the hull for a mast step and a hole cut in the deck for the mast to go through and Voila- the Bristol 40 yawl. Several more were built like that and they quickly proved problematic. Eventually the design was engineered to solve the problems that occurred on the first few yawls.
You often hear people say that yawls and ketches are simpler rigs to handle. I am not clear why that is assumed to be so as there are more sails to trim and more interaction between the individual sails. As on a sloop, you start trimming from the forward most sail moving aft. Also as on a sloop, fine tuning, small adjustments are made moving forward again to reduce downdraft interference between the sails. Sailed with the same degree of precision, a ketches and yawls require more fine tunning than a sloop but on the whole about the same amount of fine tuning as a cutter.
Anyway, in conclusion, if you are interested in sailing performance or ease of handling, a sloop rig makes more sense. To me the only justification for the yawl rig today is solely romantic charm, or a sense of history. I do not mean this to be a put down to those who love historic rigs, but for sheer sailing ability a yawl or ketch is a relic of another time, or an obsolete racing rule. Still, if you live in an area that is typically windier and you like traditional boats, then a ketch or yawl is an interesting albeit complicated rig.
Schooners, more than any of the other fore and aft rigs, are really a series of rigs. They vary from the modern unstayed cat schooners (like the Freedom 39), to Fenger''s experiments with wishbone schooners, to the traditional two-masted gaff schooners, to the early 19th century square topsail schooners, to the knockabout and the staysail schooners of the late 1930''s, to the 4, 5 and 6 masted cargo schooners of the early 20th century. Each of these has distinct advantages and disadvantages.
By definition a schooner is a rig with two or more masts with the after mast(s) equal or taller than the forward mast(s).
Schooners, in one form or another, have been around for a very long time. Like most multi-masted rigs, they evolved in the days when breaking a rig into a lot of smaller sails made sense. Multi-masted rigs resulted in a rig with a greater number of smaller low aspect ratio sails. These proportionately smaller sails reduced stretch within the individual sails, made it easier to manhandle the sails and make sail shape adjustments. This was a time before winches, light weight- low stretch sailcloth, high strength- low stretch line, and low friction blocks. These proportionately smaller sails powered up less in a gust. While multiple small sails are less efficient, the hulls of the era were so inefficient that this loss of sail efficiency did not hurt much.
Multiple masts, along with bowsprits and boomkins, allowed boats to have more sail area that could be spread out closer to the water. In a time when stone internal ballasting was the norm, this was important as it maximized the amount of drive while minimizing heeling moments. Multiple masts meant more a little more luff length and more luff length meant greater drive force on a reach or beat. But multiple masts also meant more weight aloft and much more aerodynamic drag increasing heel some and greatly reducing the relative efficiency of the sails. Multi mast rigs also have the issue of downdraft interference, meaning that each sail is operating in the disturbed and turbulent air of the sails upwind of it, which also greatly reduces the efficiency of multi mast rigs. .
Schooners are best suited for burdensome vessels with comparatively little stability. They are best used in sailing venues where they predominantly will be reaching between 30 degrees above a beam reach to approximately 50 degrees below a beam reach. Because of the geometry and inherently high drag of the schooner rig they are not very good rigs upwind or down. Upwind, the large amount of aerodynamic drag from the spars and, in stayed rigs, rigging, coupled with the typically low aspect ratio sails typical of a schooner rig, and the down-drafting problems of a multi-masted rig, results in very poor windward performance. When compared with Yawls, which can drop their mizzen when beating without much consequence, a Schooners primary drive sail(s) are acting in the wind shadow of the entire rig.
Probably the highest upwind efficiency is achieved in schooners with lug foresails. On a schooner, lug foresails are not actually ''lug rigged''. In the case or a schooner, the term ''lug foresail'' means a gaff foresail (not a jib) that foresail that over laps the mainsail in much the same manner as a Genoa over laps the mast on a modern rig. This rig was common in American working craft in the 19th century partially because there was no boom to deal with on the working deck. It was used on such boats as the yacht America''s original rig, Tancook Whalers and on many Atlantic coast pilot boats. Lug foresails need to be tacked around the mast in much the same manner as a Genoa is today.
Downwind the problem of downdraft interference is a major problem as well. The large mainsail again tends to block the air on the sails forward of it and schooners really do not have a tall forward mast on which to fly a meaningful spinnaker. While there are all kinds of kites that can be flown from a schooner, and early working schooners often carried square sails on their foremasts, most of these patches really come into their own on a reach.
I once had a great conversation with Olin Stephens about schooners. Someone had asked why the schooner rig had died out. In the course of the conversation it was pretty much concluded that as hull forms became increasingly efficient, the schooner rig could not keep up. Great efforts at all kinds of rig improvements were tried but in the end the inherent limitations of the schooner rig was ill matched to the improved hull forms of the early 20th century.
Today, traditional schooners are wonderful to look at relics of a bygone age. Traditional forms of the schooner rig are complicated rigs that are expensive to build and maintain. They generally lack the strength of staying of a more modern rig. They are limited in their ability to beat to windward, hove to, or go dead downwind. They require greater skill to sail well and are pretty labor intensive to sail in shifting conditions. Still there is nothing like the romance of gaff topsail schooner with a bone in her teeth.
Ketch/Yawl Handling
Thanks Jeff - great stuff.
You point out the difficulty of tacking the genoa on a multi-headsail rig. I have seen some examples of the genoa being rigged on the inner forestay with a high-cut jib on the outer. Is this done to overcome the tacking problem, or is there some other reason?
Ketch/Yawl Handling
The high cut jibs are a throw back to another era. It allowed the sail cloth to be used in its strongest direction and in the days before winches made the sail easier to tack. It also had the advantage of not catching a wave in its skirts as a jib tacked on the end of a bowsprit was bound to spend a lot of time in the wave tops when driven hard to windward in a steep seaway.
Ketch/Yawl Handling
Here is a review of a Yawl that might be helpful: http://www.sailnet.com/sailing/98/btjan98.htm though I think the reviewer is a bit friendly,
This site has a lot of writing on boats and boat designs some of it covers Yawls and Ketches: http://www.macnaughtongroup.com
A google search will get you a lot more.
Ketch/Yawl Handling
Hi, read:
As was found during the model tests and also the V.P.P runs, the heel angle of the vessel is critical to the performance. Since in section 4.2 it has been specified that a reduction in the keel length is necessary, if the same rig with the same sail area is carried on the new yacht she will heel to a greater angle as the righting moment is reduced. In section 4.3 the decision was made to increase the sail area to 160m² from 68.37m². This will also increase the heeling moment depending on the location or height of the centre of effort. If the same rig i.e. a sloop is used on the yacht the sails will have to be reefed earlier than the wider vessels as this was discovered in V.P.P run 1. If however the centre of effort of the sails could be lowered is some way the heel angle would be reduced. This can be done by either reefing the sails or changing the rig. By changing the rig to either a ketch or a "scetch" rig as shown in Figure 4.2, the centre of effort of the sails is lowered considerably. The disadvantage with these rigs are that they are less efficient than the sloop, but the efficiency of a reefed sloop must also be considered. When a sail is reefed the efficiency is reduced and therefore the driving force is reduced. It is hard to establish whether a ketch is less efficient than a reefed sloop of the same area without carrying out wind tunnel tests, which are outside the scope of this project.
Apart from performance of the rig and yacht as a whole, the usability or ease of handling of the rig must also be considered. As was decided the yacht is being compared to the Open 50 class and since they are single handed, the ease of handling of the rig is critical. The larger the individual sail areas the harder it is to handle and set the sail. This is where the advantage of the ketch or "scetch" rig is found. Since the sail area is split over two masts the individual sail areas are reduced and therefore it is easier to handle the rig. The disadvantages come in the form of reduced performance and increased weight as two masts are now required, and the number of winches and equipment to handle the sails are also increased. This increase in weight may effect the performance of the yacht, but it must be remembered that the ease at which the person can deal with the sails will also effect both performance and safety. For the reasons of ease of use and increased safety it would seem more advantageous to use a ketch or "scetch" rig. From a structural point of view there is a possible disadvantage with the ketch and "scetch" rig due to the position of the masts. The sloop rig would have the mast positioned around amidships while the ketch and "scetch" would have them further forward and near the aft of the yacht. The beam at the point of the mast will effect the size of the shroud base, and therefore the loading on the mast and the hull at that point. Since the mast of the sloop rig is positioned at amidships the beam is at its widest and therefore the shroud base is larger. The ketch and sloop masts are positioned away from amidships and therefore the shroud bases would be smaller. However it must be remembered that the sloop rig is carrying all its sail area on one mast and therefore the loads will be higher around the mast, while the ketch and "scetch" split the sail area and therefore the loads on each mast are lower. The point that is being made is that the structural design of the yacht needs to be reconsidered if a ketch or "scetch" rig is used.
The decision of choice of rig between a ketch or a "scetch" is difficult as it is hard to determine which is best from a performance point of view. The ketch rig is easy to set from a balance point of view, but will result is a higher centre of effort than the "scetch" rig of identical sail area. The "scetch" rig however is harder to set when it comes to balance as the helm of the yacht can be effected quite considerably. On the plus side the "scetch" rig does lower the centre of effort and will reduce the heel angle. Since the handling of the sails is important it would seem that the ketch rig would be more advantageous. A simple spreadsheet was set up to calculate the height of the centre of effort of the different rigs. It was found that by using an upwind area of 160m², and by varying the percentage area given to the mizzen, the centre of effort could be lowered by around 1.5m when using a ketch rig compared to a sloop of the same area. Obviously the optimum percentage area for the mizzen is unknown, the only way to obtain the value would be to do full size and model tests, but due to time and cost restrictions this is not possible in this project, but could be a subject of a further study in this area. The result does however illustrate the advantage that the ketch rig provides with respect to heeling. It would therefore seem that this type of rig would be a good choice for the slender yacht as it reduces the heel angle and also makes sail handling easier.
Ketch/Yawl Handling
I have a couple questions about this;
-Who wrote this article and what was its purpose?
-What kind of boat are they talking about and how large?
This sounds like a pretty big boat as the sail plan change they mentions increases the sail area from roughly 700 square feet (what you would expect on a boat with a 33 foot waterline) to nearly 1800 square feet (what you would expect on a boat with a 40 plus foot waterline).
I am not familiar with the term ''scetch'' rig. What does that rig look like?
Ketch/Yawl Handling
Thanks for the unbiased data.
Ketch/Yawl Handling
Let me guess:
1. Scetch rig: it is not a schooner, nor a ketch. Is a mix of both. Two masts, same high.
2. We are talking about models here.
3. COmplete story at http://www.users.zetnet.co.uk/behemoth/slender/slender.htm
Ketch/Yawl Handling
I could not get that link to work but from your description, a ''scetch'' is really a schooner. The definition of a schooner is a vessel with two or more masts with the main (aftermost) mast equal to or taller than the foremast. So two masts, same height would clearly be a schooner. So, I still have no idea what a scetch is. The article mentioned 160 square meter sail plan, that is a huge sail plan somewhere around 1800 square feet. That does not sound like a model.
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Course Description
GN 495 Special Topics in Gender Studies
1-4 cr.
Offered: Contact director for information
Prerequisite: GN 100 and junior standing or instructor's permission.
The formal study of content areas of gender studies that are not regularly offered as part of the curriculum. Topic will vary depending on the instructor's area of expertise.
Note: May be repeated if topic differs.


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Texas ROSE is: All about Affordable Electricity And A Healthy Environment A nonprofit 501(c)(3) membership organization that represents residential and low-income consumers to promote energy efficiency and fair utility programs. We are the only public interest group in Texas dedicated to providing straightforward, plain language information, representation before the Public Utility Commission of Texas, advocacy for low-income consumers, and education and training. Texas ROSE has been operating since 1992 and has hundreds of members in all parts of Texas. Texas ROSE works with other consumer groups, consumers, the Public Utility Commission, electric companies, and others to develop programs and policies that benefit consumers, low-income consumers, and the environment. Mission and Goals Affordable Electricity and a Healthy Environment. Our goals are: To promote a diverse, balanced electric utility resource mix which will provide long-term, affordable, sustainable energy supplies for residential and low-income consumers. To assure that energy conservation benefits are available to all classes of customers, especially low-income customers and renters. To promote energy conservation and renewable energy as viable resource options through an integrated resource planning process in a competitive market. To supplant all planned construction of dirty fossil fuel plants with energy-efficiency and a cleaner mix of alternative energy sources by the year 2005. To provide reliable information to commissioners and public utility boards on the benefits, advantages, and costs associated with energy conservation programs, renewable energy applications and resource planning standards. To educate and empower the general public on utility issues affecting customer costs and the environment.
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text: My harness system seems to be pretty inefficient. It consists of a wrap around belt with buckle (similar to the actual buckle) with suspenders that go over my shoulders and connect to the jet pack via black snap things. This seemed like it would work fine originally, but after a day of conning last year, my back was torn up. There is way to much stress placed on the shoulders and upper back, while the bottom of the back rests on my butt and scrapes my back. Do you guys have an attachment at the bottom of your back to the belt of the harness? There has to be some way to even out the weight.


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Judge Kurachi to lecture on Japanese civil case proceedings Oct. 25
DETROIT (Oct. 21, 2011) – Wayne State University Law School is pleased to host a lecture by Judge Yasuhisa Kurachi of the Kobe District Court in Japan. Kurachi will compare Japanese civil case proceedings to the American system. The lecture will take place at 12:15 p.m. on Tuesday, Oct. 25, in the third floor faculty lounge of the Law School.
Judge Kurachi is here as part of a special arrangement between Wayne Law, the Third Circuit Court of Michigan and the Supreme Court of Japan. The arrangement, which began in 2007, provides for a judge from the Japanese judicial system to visit Michigan to research and study the American judicial system, with a special emphasis on Michigan trial courts.
Judge Kurachi has served on the Kobe District Court as a judge since 2008. He received his training as a legal apprentice from the Legal Training and Research Institute of the Supreme Court. He received a bachelor of law degree from the University of Tokyo.
"We are pleased to welcome Judge Kurachi to the Law School for this lecture," said Wayne Law Dean Robert M. Ackerman. "The study and practice of law is becoming increasingly global. This leading Japanese jurist will offer an interesting legal perspective to our students."
The lecture is free and open to the public. Lunch will be provided. For more information, please contact the Law School Dean's Office at 313-577-3933.
- ### -
Wayne State University is a premier urban research institution offering more than 400 academic programs through 13 schools and colleges to nearly 32,000 students.
For more information about Wayne State University Law School, visit law.wayne.edu.


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Impress your guest with these tasty party appetizers and first-course dishes from Food & Wine that are guaranteed to stimulate your appetite.
Katie's Pimento Goat CheeseThis super-easy variation of the classic Southern sandwich spread features goat cheese instead of the traditional cheddar, plus minced onion and crushed whole pimientos and garlic for full-bodied flavor.
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Vaca Frita: Crispy BeefThis recipe for vaca frita ("fried cow") is a close cousin of Cuba's famous ropa vieja, stewed shredded beef in tomato sauce. The beef for vaca frita, however, is marinated in lime, garlic and salt, then seared until crispy.
Tomato Salsa with Cucumber "Chips"This healthy take on the traditional chips-and-salsa combo is nearly fat-free and super-refreshing. The antioxidant-rich salsa is delicious served right after it's made, but the flavors meld nicely after a day or two in the refrigerator.
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Albert Pujols vs. C.J. Wilson. Josh Hamilton vs. Chris Carpenter. Fredbird vs. Rangers Captain.
Tonight begins the World Series that will set wooter against wooter. The Texas Rangers, representing Woot's Dallas-area HQ, will play the Cardinals in St. Louis, the hometown and spiritual home of Woot's creative and web development team. (Yeah, us St. Louisans are in Seattle now, but there's no baseball team up here unless you count the Mariners.)
But in our hearts, we all know there's really only one way to settle this: which team boasted the awesomest beard in the 1982 Topps card set? Friends, Texans, Missourians, I give you the masculine splendor of Bruce Sutter and Jim Kern, two pitchers with the beards of ten normal men.
Anyway, if I'd known the 2011 season would turn out this way, I would've waited another year to write that blog post from 2010 explaining to Rangers fans the emotions they could expect to feel during the World Series. I've seen the Cardinals play in five in my lifetime, and they ran the gamut from soul-deadening collapse to euphoric triumph. Now Rangers fans are a little older, a little wiser, and a little hungrier after their own soul-deadening collapse against the Giants last year.
Which reminds me: what baseball teams have currently played the most consecutive seasons without winning a World Series? The list goes like this...
That's actually good news, Rangers fans. The former #2 on that list broke their championship drought against the Cardinals in 2004 in the most humiliating way possible for the Redbirds. You have my team to thank for their key role in turning the Boston Red Sox from lovable losers to insufferable d-bags. With this year's stacked Rangers lineup and lights-out bullpen, there's a strong chance Ron Washington and co. will soon be as widely loathed as the Sawx and Yanks!
But here's one thing missing from this year's World Series matchup: any sense of rivalry or history. This is as close to a throwback to the pre-interleague era as you can get: the two teams have only played each other for one lone series, in Texas in 2004, when some goon knocked over a kid in pursuit of a foul ball. He also got the contempt of a stadium full of his fellow Rangers fans, including an on-air scolding by Rangers announcer Tom Grieve, who called him "the biggest jerk in this park". The chump skulked out of the park early, but eventually gave the ball back to the kid.
So that was fun, but not much to build a rivalry on. Both local papers are doing their best to get the bad blood flowing with pieces on how the two cities stack up against each other. But while the St. Louis Post-Dispatch's comparison is right there for anybody to read, the Dallas Morning News puts theirs behind a paywall. I'll have to call this one for St. Louis by forfeit.
Others are getting into the act, too. A frustrated Cubs fan now living in Texas offers 5 reasons to hate the Cards, but I won't hold it against him: a lifetime of Cubs-induced trauma does ugly things to people. A comparison of local beers gives the nod to St. Louis (of course - go, Schlafly!). ESPN's Page 2 compares landmarks, jazz musicians, junk food and more before concluding that the cities are tied.
OK, but do the Rangers have anything as awesome as this video in their history? I highly doubt it! (Because I couldn't find one on YouTube!)
Beards, beers, and costumed sax solos aside, one thing should make both Rangers fans and Cardinals fans happy: while our teams are playing in the World Series, somebody in Boston is whining about it.
Let the trash talk commence in the discussion thread! And enjoy the World Series, everybody!
Keep the noise down, please! I'm up here in NH whining still....
The former No. 2 on that list was the Chicago White Sox, not the Boston Red Sox. The White Sox last won the World Series in 1917 before they won in 2005.
I don't know anything about sports, but I know a fantastic beard when I see one. Thanks for not getting bogged down in the "who does what with the bat and kicks the ball into the hoop" or whatever sports tech talk, Woot. Maybe I'll buy a Bucket of Candycorn (I bet that turns into candy corn doesn't it? See? This is the kind of quality I'm talking about) to support your promotion of pogonotrophy.
apparently the PS3 likes the Rangers in 7, after an epic 14 inning contest in fact.
also, Jason how could you not post vdeo our Rangers CEO kicking the ass of current White Sox Manager. Must have been too scary for you.
since youtube is down for me at the moment here's an alternate:
So annoyed that so many people just downgrade the World Series just because no East Coast teams are in it. I think this'll be a good Series for true baseball fans.
BTW, St. Louis in 6.
Short-shrift this series at your peril! The Cardinals led the NL in many offensive categories, and the Rangers were #2 or #3 in the AL in more, and neither one has starting pitchers that could do much in the last couple of weeks. Assuming reversion to the mean among relief pitchers, these could be some serious slugfests!
Not that true baseball fans should want that. Perhaps they should stick to games 1 and 5, when Carpenter will go up against Wilson.
Expect fewer than 12 runs to be scored in those two games combined, but that the teams should team up to score more than 12 on average in the others.
Cards in six. Oh please please please.
I know they don't have much to be all high and mighty about, with one of the worst records in baseball this year, but hey, Cardinals: The Red Sox weren't the only World Series drought you broke.
Thanks for the 1987 World Series! Sincerely, Minnesota Twins and Jeff Reardon's Beard:
Don't forget the Rams v. Cowboys matchup this Sunday as well...crazy...
Beaker74 wrote:So annoyed that so many people just downgrade the World Series just because no East Coast teams are in it. I think this'll be a good Series for true baseball fans.
BTW, St. Louis in 6.
Couldn't agree more with it being an awesome series to watch...but, call it the fact I'm wearing a Rangers hoodie both in my pic here and at this very moment, I think the Rangers will get this one in 5.
I enjoyed the Cardinals video. You don't see enough cartwheels in today's baseball. And what I wouldn't give to be a saxophone salesmen in the 80s...
Cardinals in 7!!!!! Just saying.
Rangers in Six!!!
The relevant question is: What Texas or St. Louis related products will be featured in the upcoming World Series of Woots?!?
Woot-off when the Rangers win?
How could you not use a picture of Motte????
I am NOT whining. Well, maybe a little. Rangers in 5.
Steve in Bahstun
One down, 3 to go...Cards are going to take this one. No. 11 in 2011!!!
Dallas blows St. Louis out of the water in two and only two categories: strip malls and highways.
I miss Rick Astley
Nevermind. I'm rooting for Texas now.
llandar wrote:Nevermind. I'm rooting for Texas now.
Oh come on. That's like 15 years old!
The video was great. That is hometown Ralph Butler who has a strange connection to one of the Woot staffers, as he played music with the staffers father.
llandar wrote:Dallas blows St. Louis out of the water in two and only two categories: strip malls and highways.
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text:
713-942-3461 firstname.lastname@example.com
Alan Yaacoub, a senior biology major and chemistry minor, is an American Chemical Society National Member and in the Tri-Beta National Biological Honor Society. This physics teacher's assistant is conducting research on nanoparticles, under the direction of Dr. Birgit Mellis, assistant professor of physics. He will present his research at the National American Chemical Society Meeting in April in New Orleans, La.
Even amid all the organizations in which Yaacoub participates, he takes time to study his nanoparticles.
"My research primarily consists of nanoparticle characterization for therapeutic and diagnostic applications," he said. "My previous research in this topic involved studying toxicity effects of gold nanoparticles through direct contact assays with prokaryotic cell lines, as well as characterizing nanoparticle size and concentration using spectral data. I also conducted studies on the photo-thermal effects of surface plasmon polaritron excitation on gold nanoparticles. My current research includes linking oligopeptides and proteins to gold nanoparticles through the use of protein crosslinking agents."
With Yaacoub's expert explanation of his research, it is easy to see why he is such an accomplished individual. He said, in layman's terms, the characteristics he discovers will help people use nanoparticles for future medical diagnostic imaging, and even therapies for a wide range of diseases, with emphasis on developing less toxic and more targeted cancer therapies, all of this as an undergraduate.
Yaacoub has had a long road to get to UST. He began his college career at Purdue University. He then moved to Houston with his fiancée and began studying biology at St. Thomas in 2010. He feels at home at UST because the professors keep him focused on becoming an even more refined researcher and student.
"They have very high expectations of the students, but they teach us the skills and give us the tools we need to help us reach our professional goals. The thing that strikes me the most is the investment they have in the students. It has made a world of difference for my education."
Working with Mellis, Yaacoub said she allows him to spearhead their current project. Because this research group is the first of its kind at UST, he said he likes that each team member challenges the others to continue exploring.
"She really lets me take the project where I want to take it," he said. "It's a multi-disciplinary team effort because I'm working with physicists, chemists and biologists. Having the extra minds makes it more fun. A piece of me feels like I belong here where I can study and do research."
He plans to graduate in May and is applying for medical school.
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a place for zinesters - writers and readers
July 25, 2009 at 7:30pm to July 26, 2009 at 5pm – 56a Infoshop and The Grosvenor 56a has tons of zines, dating back to the 80s and coming from all over the world. It's an amazing, free resource! We've been working on re-organising & cataloguing the zines for a few months now,… Organized by | Type: benefit, study, and, discussion
February 8, 2009 from 3pm to 4pm – We Make Zines chatroom! Hello all - I have taken it upon myself to host the second We Make Zines discussion. This will occur on Sunday February 8th at 3:00 PM EST. It will last an hour.. or longer if the discussion is good… Organized by NicoleIntrovert | Type: discussion, chat