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|Topic Review (Newest First)
Fun is what modifying cars is all about.Being a good fabricator is what allows you to do more.Your project has no particular rules to follow.
Your project is more than I would want to tackle,because;It will take a long time,,,,
I'm a driver kind of hot rodder.I like the fast car "now".I would buy good heads rather than port my own,etc.
If you want something outrageous and you have skills ,build it.
good question, look at everyone else different car and take pictures
make the same or similar or
combine 2 different ideas from 2 different cars
Heres an example of what I did years ago and then a guy like you came along and made his better
almost 20 years ago I bought a portable saw mill( turn small trees into usable lumber)The machine could cut 20 foot logs up to 3 foot diameter into lumber using a horizontal bandsaw blade.
I bought the unit,it came with a 25 horse Kohler 2 cylinder engine.I bought a small Kubota 4 cylinder turbo diesel and adapted it.That was my idea of hot rodding and well with in my ability.
My soon to be friend,looked at my mill and asked if he could take pictures.
He soon made a copy,not a clone just similar.Instead of an expensive brand new turbo diesel,he used a very small used car engine(more power too)and instead of using a known shiv system for the banb,he used "FREE" space saver tires.He also made many other low cost improvements.His final finished machine was not only faster with many improvements,it was 1/4 the cost.
you decide where you fit in for a project that you have in mind.
remember that every finished product is somebodies back yard design. enjoy
Juice and Cookies club seems to have reacheda decision.
Think it'll just be a good old American V8. The "Engine Control Module" will be my ear, one of those pocket screwdrivers and my right foot.
May not be anything exotic to it other than it being a RWD 92 Toro, but it'll be fun to play with.
Too old for anything that isn't fun.
Hard to get " RWD 92 Toronado". Try more common FWD only cars. Its just badge engineering, your dads toronado wasn't much different than an 86 celebrity eurosport. Just about any car mag from the early 90s is going to have articles on them. Plenty of Pro Street Chevy Berettas, Dodge Daytonas, Dodge Omni's and Chevy Celebrity's were built in the late 80s and early 90s. Rick Dobbertin built a Pro Street Pontiac Sunbird J2000 back then too.
Mopar used to offer a RWD "kit" for the Daytona compact, I'd assume it was to build a Pro Stock car.
I always thought it'd be cool to go with a turbo Mitsu Eclipse motor with a TH350 or T56 behind it in a light car. Incredible power, RWD orientation and light weight.
Have seen many Colbalts, mid engine corvairs, and V8 Vegas, but no RWD 92 Toronados yet.
|No need to scramble your brains trying to figure out how to make a stock engine management system work. Megasquirt MS2 or MS3 could easily be used to run a Northstar engine or any fi engine for that matter.
|go back to the Cobalt video? Ask dad if thats what he would have done? If you have time/$/skills then so your something different,or do a beige clone of everything common...
The metric chassis has a ton of aftermarket support and a 1.8 difference in width is nothing. That's less then an inch per side and is easily remedied with the right width and offset wheel.
Post some pics as you get it going.
Just a quick update.
Looking like a GM metric frame, channel in frame rails to keep ride height low.
The car already has somewhat of a fake driveline tunnel in it not the flat floor so using the stock floor pan means everything will bolt right back in.
Wheelbase is the same at 108". Width seems to be in question. Toro is 1.8" wider so looking at getting tires to fit in stock wheel wells.
Want to learn more about the Northstar before using one.
Toying with a 350 or maybe a ZZ 427 from GM performance.
Still hearing more why's, whatevers, and Think you are crazies.... But when I sit in that car and talk to Daddy about it he says go for it!
Thanks for welcoming me to the forum and all the input.
Project journal to follow so you can watch the insanity!
|Northstar T
Even though they are very cool, I can't honestly recommend the Northstar engine. I've built two different cars using them. one was a IMSA bodied Fiero (mid/rear engine) with a 98 4.6 Northstar and (Fiero) 5 speed. the other, which I still own, is a 23 T bucket. the T bucket has a 99 4.6 with my own design itb injection, and T-5 5 speed. the N* bolts up to the GM 2.8 V-6 style bellhousing by fabing one offset mounting bolt (easy), and requires a re-drilled or full custom flywheel. the PITA part of the N* is the electronics. Stock ecms are totally useless for engine swaps due to the way they have the diagnostics built into the intrament cluster, and the fact that no-one has hacked them to do away with pollution controls etc. my Fiero used a modified 7730 GM ECM and ran well, but this limits you to pretty much stock engine parameters. my bucket T has a Holley HP computer system set up by CHRfab (linked earlier) and does allow for more engine mods, but it's going to be a self taught tuning program for you, as help is not gona come your way easily for this project.
The N* is a very cool engine in many ways, but I'll never do another one due to the numerous headaches involved. if you decide to use one anyway, pm me and I'll try and guide you through some of the hurdles I jumped through to make one work outside of it's native environment.
Lots of conversation and thought going on about this one. Much like here it ranges from Why..to Lets try it!
Have a friend at the DMV checking to see how it would be handled.
Just building a custom frame is one option that I'm looking at.
Have a 3.8 V6 in it now..may look at using it. Want something fun but dependable, know you can't have it all.
The GM metric cars seem to be the best fit. Monte Carlos, Cutlass, Regals etc.
Wheelbase is the same at 108". Width is closer than anything else.
Looking at C3 and 4s they are about 10" off on width.
The old Monte Carlo SS is the front runner so far for a donor car. Thoughts are that it was set up for the big V8 already.
Appreciate all the input and ideas here..keep em coming as each one adds to the conversation. No telling yet what I'll wind up with. It'll be unique, that's for sure!
There were plenty of front drivers back in the early 90s that were made into "pro street" cars. LOTS of berettas, and the occasional Chevy Celebrity/ Olds 88 etc; and the Dodge Daytona. Is a Fox Body Fairmont the same general size? When in doubt, just make a basic ladder frame and grab a Mustang II front suspension. There are others. Rear Suspension could be almost anything. Id suggest coils to leaves; and a 3 or 4 link.
Before you get to hacking, look into the emissions, registration and insurance. In some states, you better have impeccable records, including vin numbers for the vehicles you crib used parts from.
You may find that swapping in a front drive SC 3.8L V6 and throwing boost/nitrous at it
OR, you could go avant garde and get an Ecotec turbo 4 banger and make absolutely silly HP.
Thank you all for the words of encouragement input, and sharing of knowledge.
Glad to have found this forum. Will start a project journal for sure once we decide on something and get moving.
The thrill of the chase is on!
|69 widetrack
I've thought this would be a great project from the beginning and when Joe suggested the Northstar...well, I think that is just way cool. The Northstar is a bit of a finicky engine and has had it's problems with Head gasket issues and the like...but, I will find that site with a lot of information on hot rodding the Northstar and with what your buddy has to offer....it will be a blast.
There are several years that are more desireable than others...apparently the 93 and 94 have some inherent problems if I'm correct. As I mentioned earlier I have a Northstar 4.6 in an Eldorado ETC (Touring Cupe...more HP but the ECS has more torque)...when I first got it...the Wife thought it was a boat...now I can't pry it out of her hands...she's become a Civic eating machine....(My Wife more so than the car...LOL)
Love the project and keep all of us up to date.
looking at specs online..not nearly wide enough. Swap meet fund raiser if anything.
C6 only thing close..going to do that may as well have something custom built.
Aurora investigation under way
Thanks for that!
Toro has 4 wheel disc can use them but probably same low quality stuff.
Go fast cars need stop fast brakes.
Toro wheelbase = 108" Worried about width on Vette as well.
May pick it up if I can talk Him down some even if it won't work. I'll take it apart and haul to the swap meet in November..Add a few bucks to the project fund.
Like the Aurora platform idea as well. Since it replaced the Toro I would think dimension are close. Good to have options.
Spoke with a friend in Arizona last night about the Northstar...said he put a few with twin turbo setups in some sand cars...smoked the tires at 800HP on wheel Dyno so never got a true reading. Guess who's building my engine...Yeah baby!
Haven't had the boys this excited in a long time. Going to be a fun project no matter how we do it.
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text: the date will be in a graveyard in the middle of the woods around no one. we will get together and praise nature and dance. then we will eat. then we will relax and camp there untill midnight. . if any one meets the requirements then please lets go out on a date. i will take good care of you i promise im gental i dont bite that much

subset: commoncrawl


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Hey guys,
I want to start work on a ROTJ Boba Fett costume and am not sure where to start. I'm thinking of starting with the helmet. Can you guys give me any tips on where to start?
helmet or blaster...that is where i started...helmet for sure, it is the staple of Fett...other than that, it just all falls into place as you go...steer clear of pretty much anything on ebay...it is just garbage...all you need is here, and can be made or sold in the cargo hold...welcome, and feel free to give me a shout if you have questions...
I want to start with the helmet. Get that nailed down and perfect. I was looking at bobamaker's stuff on his website. It looks beautiful, just don't know if i want to go with fiber glass. Should i just post in the cargo hold that i want to buy a helmet?
I started with the Jetpack myself.
i would actually suggest starting with the armor.
Here's why,
You can get it cheaply if you go with Sintra or (shudders) "trash-can " armor. It's a good place to get a feel for your abilities and if you really really wanna continue making a Boba. If you lose interest, you aren't out a ton of cash.
Also, helmets and Jetpacks (especially the ROTJ pack) are pretty complex paintjobs and might cause people to become discouraged if that's what they try first
just my 2 cents
that makes alot of sense...also depends on your fundage, what are you willing spend? are you looking to buy? do it yourself? you need to set a budget, and then research what stuff costs, how much is it to have someone paint for you, stuff like that...so you need to set your goals, then do your studying...and like i said, there are many people here that can do all of the above if you have a large budget...and on the other hand, there are many many resources to help you out if you dont...good luck!!
I sort of built mine as if I were putting it on (except the helmet, I got that first haha). Started with soft parts, then armor, then belts, etc... It lets you test fit and put on stuff as you progress to see if you like it or not.
I would start by working some OT!!! Just kidding!! :-)
Armor's a great suggestion.
If i start with the armor, should i get the soft pieces first? I'm aware this is going to cost a few thousand dollars. I'm going to do it over time. I just wanted to know where to start. And it looks like i should probably start with the armor.
Should i get the soft elements before getting the armor?
Get the armor parts first, that´s what your going to spend most of your time perfecting, you can get the softparts while you work on the armor.
And yes, I´d start with the chest pieces. If you don´t have too much experience painting stuff like this, the chest pieces is a great part to learn and perfect your technique on before you move on to the helmet.
I'd get a helmet or work on a helmet first. You can display that on a helmet stand or styrofoam head form and it will probably inspire you to go on to the next step.
My first go round I did that, then got a mannequin torso and a flak vest and did the chest armor and shoulder bells to go on that. Then it was on to a full size mannquin.
I'm on my second mannquin and just about every element of my costume is either on it's second, third, fourth or even fifth incarnation. I've got one shin tool a set of boots that are still hanging about from my first go round.
It depends on if you already have a skillset or not. If you are an accomplished painter and have the skills to do the paintjob then start with the helmet.
The other thing to take into consideration is runs of something being done at sometime. If FP decides to do a run of 15 helmets, then jump on that as fast as you can put your name on the list! If Mojo does another run of sidearms, get one as quickly as you can. Get to know the makers her and that can save you a lot of time.


text:
Hey guy's,
My name is Steve, I'm a regular on the Calif. Forum, I have two buddies of mine that are leaving the Marine Corp. One has been in 20 yrs. and is careered out. has has done multiple tours, including 5 in the middle east. The other one has been in 6yrs. 4 months, and has done 4 volunteer duties in Iraq.
Their wives have contacted me and asked if I could find them a hog hunt for their retirement, and I graciously said "Yes" Can anyone help me out? these are two guy's that put themselves first, and stood on the lines everyday for our freedom.
Please contact me via my e-mail, thanks so much in advance.


text:
Born in: Ft. Gordon, Georgia
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Born in: La Coruna, Spain
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Born in: Baltimore, Maryland
Raised in: Jacksonville, Florida
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Raised in: Shandong, China
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Born in: Israel
Raised in: North Carolina
"The UNC Kenan-Flagler experience extends beyond the two years at school, and instead is a lifelong community. "


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Ken from Greer,S.C. writes: You guys and gals at World Start are great when it comes to electronics so I hope you can answer my question. I like to share videos (like YouTube) on Facebook and especially in email. When I click on a video link I receive via email it goes straight to big screen and begins playing. When I share from YouTube it goes to the YouTube page with the smaller version. How do I get the link to go to full screen and auto play?
Why thanks! We're blushing a little right now. Ken, I love sharing videos from YouTube as well. A group of friends and I get together on Facebook once a week to share music videos from the 1980s.
There are several ways to share videos from you tube. You can choose email, social media, embedding the video on a website or simply copy and paste the link.
When you share a video from YouTube by clicking on e-mail, many times (but not all depending on your e-mail program), it will show up embedded in the video and you can watch it right from your e-mail.
When I click play, I can view a larger size of this video right in my e-mail, though if I want fullscreen, I'll have to click the YouTube logo in the lower right to watch on YouTube.
If someone just sends a hypertext link, it will take me straight to YouTube to watch. When you share via social media, sometimes (but again, not always) the video will be embedded in your feed. I can watch the video without ever leaving Facebook by pressing the play button.
Fullscreen is always just a click away by clicking on the fullscreen symbol in the lower right of the video.
But there is a trick for sharing links so that they appear fullscreen. You won't be sharing by hitting any of the share buttons. What you'll need to do is copy the URL of the video from the address bar at the top of the page. The address will read something like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n-JqZeujGLs
What you'll need to do is to carefully delete "watch? and also change the = sign into / – the above address will now read: https://www.youtube.com/v/n-JqZeujGLs
You need to be exact with the changes and test out the link to make sure you got it right. Then copy that link and share it on Facebook or in an e-mail. You might just find it easier to click the fullscreen button. That only takes a second.
Hope that helps.
~ Cynthia


text:
Bearpaw Emma Tall
Product Information
- Look stylish and feel comfortable all year long in the Emma 12" boot from Bearpaw®.
- Supple suede uppers offer easy-to-maintain care to provide you with season-after-season wear.
- Super soft sheepskin lining helps regulate foot temperature while keeping feet healthy and dry.
- Sheepskin footbed provides additional softness to help reduce foot fatigue during extended wear.
- Rubber outsole with fall-inspired etchings is lightweight and flexible for easy walking.
- Measurements:
- Heel Height: 1 in
- Weight: 1 lb 2 oz
- Circumference: 16 1⁄4 in
- Shaft: 12 in
- Platform Height: 3⁄4 in
- Product measurements were taken using size 8, width M. Please note that measurements may vary by size.


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text:
You Know the Pocket Patdown, Right?
It's when someone asks "Hey, do you have a pen?" and you can't answer right away. First you gotta pat EVERY! SINGLE! POCKET! to see if you do! It looks silly! Wouldn't you just like to KNOW you've got a pen and exactly where it is?
It's all the best designs wrapped into one perfect little pen.
Now when they ask you'll just flash a knowing grin and present your new favorite pen! (Just make sure to get it back when they're done!)
First off, it's wide with a soft grip. That means more comfort and fewer hand cramps. YES! If you're gonna get a pen, you might as well get one that's as comfortable as this one!
Plus, that makes it SO MUCH EASIER TO FIND! If you've got a bag, pocket, or purse full of junk... have fun fishing out one of those thin little pens. Pfft. Even if you DO find your cheap-o pen, it's still uncomfortable to use!
Gee... if I had a dollar for every lost pen cap... I'd be able to buy a lot of these cool pens!
And last (but certainly not least) is that FANTASTIC carabiner hook. It's a simple design that works wonders for keeping your pen where you need it.
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text:
chownah wrote:....and specifically my view is that what is being described IN THE SUTTA is meditative concentration developed and directed toward contemplation of various aspects of the four frames.
The Buddha wrote:And what is the faculty of mindfulness? There is the case where a monk, a disciple of the noble ones, is mindful, highly meticulous, remembering & able to call to mind even things that were done & said long ago. He remains focused on the body in & of itself — ardent, alert, & mindful — putting aside greed & distress with reference to the world. He remains focused on feelings in & of themselves... the mind in & of itself... mental qualities in & of themselves — ardent, alert, & mindful — putting aside greed & distress with reference to the world. This is called the faculty of mindfulness.
From: Indriya-vibhanga Sutta: Analysis of the Mental Faculties translated from the Pali by Thanissaro Bhikkhu
dhammapal wrote: Awareness of other's feelings would require psychic powers.
Return to "Vipassanā / Satipaṭṭhāna Bhāvana"
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text:
|Topic Review (Newest First)
Originally Posted by sailaway21
I have a pet peeve with the cruise ships in this area, as they are usually lit up like a Phillipino water taxi, and you cannot make out their sidelights. Fortunately, they are never going anywhere quickly and bearing drift is enough to determine their relavence.
'Uniform' is the correct and probably best understood signal.
We of the sailboat ilk tend to call them "disco boats" due to the ear-splitting sound systems they employ and the sort of flashing lights that would induce epilepsy on land.
In the matter of signalling, I suspect only a flare aimed directly at the wheelhouse would have a chance of being noticed.
'Mike' means "my vessel is stopped and making no way through the water" which would not be correct as you are at anchor. It implicitly implies that you are underway.
'Lima' means, "you should stop your vessel instantly"
'X-Ray' means, "stop carrying out your intentions and watch for my signals"
I cannot approach this conversation from a point other than as a professional mariner, so what I recommend would be what I feel most professionals would respond to. What sailors, or even harbor craft professionals, would respond to, I cannot say. Hopefully, others will respond to that.
I think 'Uniform', 'you are running into danger' is a single letter signal, along with 'Charlie', 'November', and 'Sierra', that would be recognized by the average mate on watch. I know I've never forgotten it's meaning, something I cannot say for all the rest of the single letter signals. Fortunately, I did not have to use 'Juliet'.
If 'Uniform' didn't do the trick, I suppose I would still fall back on the five short blasts of the danger signal. If I'm going to die, I figure to go down blowing, and that would probably be the last signal heard from me. The Coast Guard, in court, said it was inappropriate and for use only by vessels underway. This was convenient for the master of the other vessel, because he contended that he thought my ship was underway, even though our anchor and deck lights were on. I have a pet peeve with the cruise ships in this area, as they are usually lit up like a Phillipino water taxi, and you cannot make out their sidelights. Fortunately, they are never going anywhere quickly and bearing drift is enough to determine their relavence.
'Uniform' is the correct and probably best understood signal.
OK its been awhile since this was first brought up. I since have printed a copy of International Code of Signaling provided in the above link and have been doing some brushing up. Thank you all for the information.
I want to make sure I have this right, while I am anchored and I see another vessel approaching which I believe is coming too close to my anchored vessel and is possibly putting us both in a dangerous situation, I should signal either by flashlight or horn "U", dot,dot,dash, "you are running into danger", correct?
M or L are also options, correct?
I get this all from the original post and just want to make sure I have it correct. Thanks everybody.
Yes, that was my first reading, too! However, it doesn't SAY that both vessels have to be underway, only that they have to be approaching. Still, my study guide says, specifically, that an anchored vessel may sound the danger signal. I'll try to get some further clarification on that from the instructor (a retired Coastie) and will post his response.
You're right about the wording of the Rules. Sometimes I think they were done either by a committee of non-English speakers or by someone schooled in the art of obfuscation. There are many examples where they are not immediately clear, even with some study. And I've spent a lifetime on the water, and been a licensed master for over 25 years (though not unlimited like you!). I OUGHT to be able to understand this stuff straightaway :-))
Oh, well.
In most US waters the commercial traffic uses just what you have described and they refer directly to the sound signals proscribed in the COLREGs. They are still required to sound the signal on the whistle, although not all do.
My current copy of the COLREGs is dated, but I think a careful reading of Rule 34 will show that it is only for vessel's underway. As you stated, 'Romeo' would be applicable in fog. 'Uniform', you are standing in to danger, or possibly 'Lima', you should stop your vessel instantly, or 'X-Ray', stop carrying out your intentions and watch for my signals might all have been applicable in my 'allision'.
When this incident occurred, I held my first renewal of my unlimited Master's license, which meant I'd gone through five licensing exams, and I was fully under the impression that the danger signal was appropriate. Please PM me if your newer copy reads differently, specifically in (a) of 34. Maritime law is chock full of cases dealing with just these issues-hard to believe in what, initially appears to be a very straight-forward book! Unfortunately, I had to waste a day in admiralty court to be educated on this finer point. If I had to do it over, I would probably sound Uniform, and, failing to see any response sound the danger signal. YMMV
A little understood point, except by professionals, in the differences between International and Inland rules is that sound signals made in International waters are signals of action, while the same signal made in Inland waters is a signal of intent. A subtle difference, not without distinction.
The reason I mentioned ho 102 is that it contains all of the single letter signal meanings, as well as multiple letter/number signalling. There are a good number of signals, usually two letters followed by a numeral, to indicate a variety of situations, and they are part of 'Interco' which allows one to communicate via flag, flashing light, or sound signals. These are signals outside of the COLREGs.
Good luck on your renewal. I hope the "pony" hits!
Thanks for that reference, Stan.
Interesting, that on p22 of the ICOS (Rev 2003) under the single letter code signals the letter "U" stands for "You are running into danger".
|Thanks SIDIAG
Great post and a good read, lots of valuable information (We get that sometimes around here).
Thanks for the link sidiag.
I plan on printing it.
Kind of a funny story to signaling.
In my area (Chicago) we have a lot of tour boats and water taxis.
These captains use the VHF for their signals. Monitoring the radio you will hear, "Passing on one." or " Pssing on two." or else you will hear, "Captain do you want One or Two.?"
I asked one of them one day what they were always talking about and she explained it was their horn signals.
For those who might be interested,
International Code of Signals - HO 102 is
available here -> http://www.gyc.com/ICOSbook.pdf
as a free download.
You might also try
Flags is a freeware program written to teach the International Code of Signals flags.
Good Day!
Nice post. Good story, too :-)
The Colregs may have changed since your incident.
I believe under the current Rules an anchored vessel may, indeed, give the danger/doubt signal (5 or more short blasts), under Rule 34. The course guide I am presently using to renew my license specifically says that an anchored vessel may sound the danger/doubt signal, as well as vessels underway in meeting, crossing or overtaking situations.
In restricted visibility conditions an anchored vessel sounds the normal 5-sec rapid ringing of the bell every minute and, if over 100 meters long, in addition sounds a gong rapidly for 5 seconds after ringing the bell. Optionally, all anchored vessels may also sound a whistle signal, Morse "R", one short, one prolonged, one short....to warn other vessels.
Not sure about the "U" signal. Can't find it in the current regs.
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text:
Note: Online collection request service is not available in all countries. If this service is not available in your country, call your local UPS office. To check the status of your UPS Collection requested online, you can use Shipping History or the Collection Request Number printed on your receipt.To check your collection status using Shipping History, select the radio button next to your shipment and then select Show Detail/Receipt. On the Shipment Details page, select the Collection Request Number and the status information displays.To use your receipt for reference, print the receipt and select Shipping at the top of the page. Under Schedule a Collection, select Collection Status.
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text:
Nope... not mine!
Nope... not mine!
christopher walken
Or was it really Walken?
The Dent's ??
Zach from Saved by the Bell?
It's not Jeremy's, his was on the 16th.
Haha... No... Today is TDH's Birthday! TDH is 6 years old today!
Breaks into song.... "Happy Birthday to you"... erm you know the rest!
Heres to another 6 more...
It's Saxe Coburg's birthday today too, that's ama-zing!!!
Congrats to both the collective and the wierdo.
Happy B-day TDH!
Dang, I knew it! Happy Birthday Community! All grown up and stuff. Perhaps we should celebrate with free helmets or something!?
I remember TDH when it was still just a wee baby. Sniff...they grow up so fast...
Many thanks go to the folks who run the place. I imagine when you started TDH, it was mostly about the props and the characters. Six years later, it's also about maintaining a healthy and thriving community of unique people with similar interests. Not everybody would have made the transition as well as the folks in charge here did.
I'm looking forward to whatever this year brings for TDH!
long live the helmet
Ah ha, HAPPY BIRTHDAY!!
As a special treat I've gone out and got you what you've been after for ages
Now blow out your candles before he de-frosts!!
Wow! TDH is 6 years old?? Can we take it to Chuck E. Cheese?
I wanna play some skeeball!
Happy birthday, TDH!
Sniff on Art Andrews for this message! And a Happy Birthday indeed!
it was christopher walken's birthday first.
Christopher Walken's birthday is on March 31st.
Happy b-days to Sax and TDH! Drink scotch


text: Players don't just foul the man they're guarding nor do they only score against their assigned defender. When you rotate and fail to pick up your end of the bargain, technically, someone else's man scored. Does that site also track missed rotations and late help defense when it's YOUR responsibility to pick up a different player. Also, there is NO WAY Singler has only give up 4 and ones through 30-something games. I call BS on that. I might have some time on Sunday, but I could probably find more than 3 and ones from Singler in the last 10 games.


text:
In the U.S., more than 10,000 people turn 65 every day, and the senior citizen population, now over 40 million, will more than double in the next four decades. Life expectancy also continues to increase in the U.S., as it has each decade for the last century. These two trends have all sorts of implications—economic, social, political, and urban.
One thing remains unchanged, however—the cultural anathema of death. Even 40 years after psychiatrist Elisabeth Kübler-Ross's groundbreaking book On Death and Dying, we still struggle with the inevitability of our own mortality, or a loved-one's death, when all medical solutions have been exhausted. Design, however, can be useful in this difficult period of both certainty and uncertainty about the end.
"We are trying to move the cultural dial a little more towards accepting death by offering a public salon series," says Dr. B.J. Miller, executive director of the Zen Hospice Project in San Francisco and a palliative care physician at the University of California, San Francisco. "The sheer volume of people who will be facing death, and the increasing number of people living with complex chronic illnesses, are tectonic forces that will bring this issue out of the margins."
Informed by Buddhist teachings that encourage meeting the eventuality of death with equanimity and compassion, the nonprofit operates a six-bed hospice facility housed in a beautiful Victorian building, where there is nothing from the outside to distinguish it as a care facility, and where inside and on the lush grounds, terminally ill people can face death in a comforting environment. "Of course, most people want to die in their own homes, but that's simply not possible for everyone," Miller says. "So we've tried to provide a home away from home."
The ideal home, however, is relative.
"The idea of designing the optimal environment for end-of-life moments presupposes that all humans want the same thing, and I'm not sure that humans are as similar in this respect as we believe," says Martin Siefering, AIA, a principal at Perkins Eastman and a member of AIA's Design for Aging Knowledge Community advisory group.
"We have also seen that, as hospice services provide a great deal of end-of-life care in patients' homes, patients who arrive at a hospice are more medically frail and functionally compromised than in the past," Siefering says. "This has led to questions about whether the natural or man-made amenities remain as important."
These and other considerations are likely to be explored methodically. In fact, Miller was involved in a recent four-year grant project funded by the Fetzer Institute that facilitated collaboration within a small group of academics in varied disciplines to foster integrated approaches to higher education. As its case in point, the Life Death Rebirth project chose to explore how design principles can stimulate life-affirming approaches toward death.
One of the project's initial reports quotes the writer and activist Ken Worpole's Modern Hospice Design: The Architecture of Palliative Care:
A hospice is a place where ordinary people face up to extraordinary challenges and, with the help of skilled and dedicated health care professionals, triumph in the face of progressive physical deterioration and sequential losses. People live until they die and it is the job of the hospice to support and enable each patient to live their life as fully as possible. It is a place for reflection and a place to search for meaning and purpose. For many, it is perhaps the first time that they have seriously addressed the fundamental issues of life and death. The hospice building must be sympathetic to, and supportive of, our best efforts. The building must be planned to the finest detail, because we cannot afford to get it wrong.
With this message as a cue, the grant recipients, per their report, would devise courses for their respective students to collaborate, "applying knowledge from architecture, medicine, and literary and writing studies, to develop real world approaches to the challenge of improving the experience of death in the American medical system."
One of the Fetzer project team members, Ekaterini Vlahos, chair of the Architecture Department at the University of Colorado Denver College of Architecture and Planning, involved her students in various related design projects, including the development of conceptual renovation plans for Zen House.
"The students who have chosen to work on this project are very mindful in how they design space, while making connections to a broader cultural and natural context," Vlahos says. "It's encouraging to see young architecture students exploring this subject, but we still have a long way to go in the U.S. in regard to designing places that can enhance quality of life in the face of death."
In fact, an original inspiration for Vlahos and her fellow grantees was Maggie's Cancer Caring Centres, most of which are located in the U.K., which represent some of the finest examples of the transcendent power of design. Established in 1993 by writer, theorist, and landscape designer Charles Jencks and his wife, Maggie Keswick Jencks (who died two years later from breast cancer), the centers have become a respected network of nonresidential drop-in facilities to serve anyone affected by cancer. A number of architects, including Frank Gehry, FAIA, Zaha Hadid, Hon. FAIA, and Richard Rogers, Hon. FAIA, have been involved in the designs, which offer respite—and even an uplifting atmosphere—created specifically for cancer patients and their loved ones.
"Above all," Maggie Jencks said during the planning phase of Maggie's Centres, "what matters is not to lose the joy of living in the fear of dying."


text:
International Hotel Deals
Tourists step out of their comfort zones when traveling abroad but that doesn't mean they cannot find a quality hotel where they can relax between long days of sightseeing. When choosing a hotel in a foreign country, starting by reading reviews from previous guests to quickly alert you of red flags from poor hygiene to bad customer service and do not book a hotel that doesn't have reviews. Rather than renting a car in another country which can be expensive and stressful when trying to find parking or navigating ancient cobblestone roads, select a property near public transport.
Even if the hotel is not within walking distance of all the landmarks you wish to visit, many major cities offer fast, clean and safe subway and bus lines connecting tourists to restaurants, museums and monuments.


text:
|Topic Review (Newest First)
|A fool and their money...
Beats me, sentimental attachment? He bought some Dart heads, well I bought them for him and he gave me the dough. If the other head cleans up as well he'll use them and I'll get the Darts for my services. If not then I'll keep the 291s unless he want them too. It'll cost him $300 plus the machine work to get his 291s. These heads, supposedly, have the correct date code for whatever he's doing. I think he's full of it but as long as he's paying I'm grinding.
|Why didn't he just buy new heads?
I agree with what everyone says so far. Practice, practice, practice. You really need to get a handle the die grinder first or you can hack up the valve seats and guide bosses QUICKLY.
I'm attempting to repair a hacked up set of 291 heads. They'll need thick walled guides pressed in to repair the damage to the guide bosses and probably won't do much more for the engine than they would've in stock form.
Too much metal removed in the bowl area created a low pressure area, see the circled area. A hump behind what remained of the guide boss further upset the flow, see the arrows. The picture on the right is of the same bowl after the port cieling was raised and the hump removed.
This pic shows how far the port ceiling had to be raised above the already raised ceiling to eliminate the low spot in the bowl.
Here's one of them ready for the machine shop for a cleaning, new guides, a valve job and resurfacing.
Take baby steps when you're removing material or you'll end up with a mess like this. It's going to cost this guy a bit over $600 for the work I'm doing plus the new guides.
The pushrod pinch is at the port entrance right next to where the pushrod passes through the head.
Welcome to the world of cast iron boogers.
Thanks for all the good info.
I have another question that I hope does not show my ignorance. In regards to a previous response:
" Don't waste your time messing with the pushrod pinch "
What is the pushrod pinch?
Also, thats a great idea about building a box attached to a shop vac to safely carry all the metal shavings away.
I will ask some of the junkyards in the area to see if they have any cracked #882 heads that I can have so I can cut them in half.
I use a screw-in stud with a 3/4" long bottom as a quick gauge to be sure Im not getting carried away on the gasket match for intake ports.
At the very least get the valves backcut, I like 25 intake and 30 exhaust but everybody has their own theory on what angle to use. Good low buck mod that will pick up a few cfm.
Staying with the smaller valves will cause less problems with cutting through induction hardening on exhaust valve seats for sure. Larger valves will flow more and with same size port volume will increase port velocity not reduce it.
Theres better stock heads that will flow more but this is what youre working with. I think it boils down to how much do you spend before you could buy better different heads.
I would get one to practice on theres no shortage of junk 350 heads.
I wish I had access to all the stuff needed to check out any gains/losses on my porting, but I just did it in hopes of gaining a few hp. I don't have any way to check it out, but atleast in my mind, it runs very strong.
my porting job on my 882's
What i would do is bolt the heads on just as they are with a fresh valve job. Then after you run the engine awhile and you really know how it runs pull the heads and go with your plan. This will show you if what you did made a difference or not. You can flow bench and port heads till the cows come home and untill you can verify the changes you have made work it just a waste of time. You may actually be suprised that the engine runs better with the un-ported heads!!!!!
Just my .02 Keith
|Max Keith
porting heads
If by chance you can locate a cracked or broken head of the same # as the ones you plan to port out, have the head cut directly through the ports so you can see what the port looks like from the inside. This will let you know where your water jackets are, and help you prevent getting into a thin area where 1/16th of an inch of grinding could ruin the head. Studying these cut ups will also give you a better chance to analyze how the intake and exhaust runners are constructed, and give you a better idea of how the flow goes.
You are correct about fuel air mixture velocities, and this holds true regardless of the RPM design of the engine. The trick is to maximize the velocities and volume of flow to correspond with your desired RPM range.
Just remember that a little of grinding will help a lot but a lot of grinding isnt always gooder.
|Don't waste your time messing with the pushrod pinch. Those heads need plenty of work in many other area's. Sounds like you're on the right track.
Question about porting my own heads
Hello. I have a set of heads that I am very confident I can port myself.
The heads are casting # 333882 they are sbc heads that have been cleaned magged, etc. I am not sure what they came off of, but I am going to put them on a 4-bolt main 350 block from the '77 -'79 era.
The motor is being set up for street use with the rpm range from 0 to no more than about 5500. I was initially going to go with a 383, but decided against it.
I have read plenty up on do it yourself head porting and I know I can do this if I am careful. The specs on these particular heads are as follows;
Intake flows about 137 cfm
Exhaust flows about 95cfm
76cc chambers
hardened seats
The two obvious things that come out at you are the exhaust number and the large chambers. I plan on alleviating the large chamber size by running a domed 11 to 1 piston to get the compression to about 10:1. As far as cleaning up the runners. I am going to use a few intake manifold bolts to postition an hold the intake manifold gasket in place on the head--using the gasket as a template--to scribe out excess material on the intake runners. Basically I am matching the intake runners to the gasket. I am not going to get to carried away on the intake side, however on the exhuast side I am going to spend a little more time to bump up that exhaust number of 95cfm. I plan on cleaning up the bowl area staying a 1/2 inch or so away from the seat area. The idea in using these particular heads with 1.94 intakes, 1.5 exhaust, and not heads with say 2.02 intakes and 1.6 exhaust is so the velocity of the mixture going into the chamber will be a little better. At higher rpm--above 5500--I know the 2.02's would probably be better.
Can anyone provide any additional insight, potential problems I might encounter, or there own success on doing the same job?
Yeah, I know I could have bought aftermarket heads that flow better right out of the box, however; I basically got these heads for nothing, so there you have it.
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Tennis FacilitiesFlames Home > Tennis > Facilities
Cook Tennis Center
The Cook Tennis Center serves as the home to Liberty University's men's and women's tennis teams. Liberty Athletics announced the plans for the facility in November 2010, after Sherwin and and Lora Cook pledged the lead gift for the tennis teams' new homes.
Completed in early September 2011, the Cook Tennis Center contains all the necessities for a top-tier program in one location. On the ground level, student-athletes have access to men's and women's locker rooms, a training room and a stringing room. Upstairs features coaches' offices as well as a team room.
Cook Tennis Center Video Tour
Hershey-Esbenshade Tennis Courts
Located on Liberty University's Green Hall, the Hershey-Esbenshade Tennis Courts give the Liberty tennis programs 18 championship courts to compete upon.
The Hershey Tennis Courts
The Esbenshade Tennis Courts
The Sports Racket
As part of another generous act from the Cook family, Liberty's tennis programs now have complete access to a long-time Lynchburg facility, The Sports Racket. Just a short ride from campus, the facility now gives Liberty top-notch facilities for both indoor and outdoor play.
Outside the Sports Racket
The Sports Racket's Indoor Courts


text: Your input requested: Teacher Leader Endorsements The Department of Elementary and Secondary Education (DESE) is seeking input on Teacher Leader Endorsements as part of a Career Ladder for Teachers. Historically, most teachers have had few opportunities to advance in their careers while remaining in the classroom. Through the Race to the Top Career Ladder for Teachers project, DESE seeks to create opportunities for teachers to take on specialized roles and responsibilities in recognition of excellence in teaching, contributions to schools, and skillful collaboration with colleagues. In order to create a Career Ladder for Teachers, DESE has committed to developing endorsements, which will be optional certifications that a teacher could add to his or her license. DESE invites you to review and comment on the definition of proposed endorsements. This updated list reflects feedback already received from the field. Your feedback will be invaluable in crafting clear definitions of endorsements that represent the best thinking of the field. The survey should take about five minutes to complete: http://www.surveygizmo.com/s3/1125482/Career-Ladders-for-Teachers-2013


text:
Dolphin Artists :: Nine Inch Nails
Related ArtistsSmashing Pumpkins, Dust Brothers, Slipknot, A Perfect Circle, Queens of the Stone Age, Genitorturers, Alice in Chains, Rob Zombie, Nirvana, Rammstein
Nine Inch Nails is an Industrial rock band that was formed in 1988 in Cleveland, Ohio, United States by Trent Reznor, the only constant member of the band. Reznor is generally credited for popularizing the genre known as "industrial rock" with both his releases and dark, theatrical music videos. As of 2016, the band also officially includes Reznor's longtime collaborator Atticus Ross as a second official member. Born Michael Trent Reznor, he was raised by his maternal grandparents in Mercer, Pennsylvania, USA. Read more on Last.fm more
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text:
AMES, Iowa – Sweet corn is one of the most popular vegetables in the home garden, roadside stands and farmers' markets. This summer's hot, dry weather has growers asking Iowa State University Extension and Outreach horticulture specialists about sweet corn. To have additional questions answered, contact the experts at firstname.lastname@example.com or call 515-294-3108.
Poorly filled ears are usually the result of poor pollination. Hot, dry winds and dry soil conditions may adversely affect pollination and fertilization and result in poorly filled ears. Water sweet corn during pollination if the soil is dry. Improper planting also may affect pollination. Corn is wind pollinated. Plant sweet corn in blocks of four or more short rows to promote pollination.
Sweet corn should be harvested at the milk stage. At this stage, the silks are brown and dry at the ear tip. When punctured with a thumbnail, the soft kernels produce a milky juice. Over-mature sweet corn is tough and doughy. An immature ear will not be completely filled to the tip and the kernels produce a clear, watery liquid when punctured.
The harvest date can be estimated by noting the date of silk emergence. The number of days from silk emergence to harvest is approximately 18 to 23 days. Prime maturity, however, may be reached in 15 days or less if day and night temperatures are exceptionally warm. Most hybrid sweet corn varieties produce two ears per plant. The upper ear usually matures one or two days before the lower ear.
Harvest sweet corn by grasping the ear at its base and then twisting downward. Use or refrigerate sweet corn immediately after harvest. Optimum storage conditions for sweet corn are a temperature of 32 F and a relative humidity of 95 percent.
The silvery white growths are likely common corn smut. Common corn smut is a fungal disease. Smut galls can develop on the stalks, leaves, ears or tassels of sweet corn. When broken open or "ripe," the galls release millions of powdery black spores. Spores released by the smut galls fall to the soil where they may survive for many years.
Several factors affect the severity of common smut. Corn smut is usually more common on plants heavily fertilized with nitrogen and those damaged by hail or mechanical means. Hot, dry weather also increases the incidence of corn smut.
Corn smut control strategies include avoiding varieties that are highly susceptible to smut, avoiding mechanical injury to plants during cultivation and providing adequate (but not excessive) amounts of nitrogen. Smut infested portions of the sweet corn plant (or the entire plant) should be removed from the garden before the galls break open and destroyed.
In Mexico, corn smut galls (referred to as huitlacoche) are regarded as a delicacy and used in soups, casseroles and other dishes.


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059 L Toy Soldier 40 pdr LimberToy Soldiers 54mm British Army 1879-1900Casting/kit Unpainted with colour photo. Cast in quality white metal.
Do you need Paint? follow this link Available as an extra touch to your figure, Wooden Plinths and Bases at http://traditionoflondonshop.com/Wooden_Plinths_and_Bases
Tradition Magazine with Military History, to read about an interesting subject or to help you paint your own figures; http://traditionoflondonshop.com/Magazine_and_Books/Tradition_Magazine_Military_History
In 1980 the toy soldier range painted in gloss was introduced, sculpted by David Scheinmann, and today by Andrew Stadden which from modest beginnings has expanded to a very extensive range covering many popular subjects and periods of military history.


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