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The first civilian Governor of Ekiti State, Otunba Niyi Adebayo, rarely grants interviews as he commits much of his time to his law practice.
When he agreed to speak to Vanguard's HUGO ODIOGOR on the politics of his state, the resurgence of the ACN in South West and the hurdles before President Goodluck Jonathan in 2011 elections, it was in few direct and articulate words, that sums up his background as man born with a silver spoon in his mouth. Read Excerpts.
SINCE you left office as the governor of Ekiti State in 2003, you seem to have alienated yourself from politics at both state and national levels, are you disillusioned with the state of affairs in the country?
It is not absolutely correct to say that I insulated myself from politics because I have been heavily involved in politics at the state and national level but I have played more of a background role. I believe that when you put somebody forward to contest for an office, that person becomes the face and voice of that effort, all you do is to rally round him.
That is exactly what I have done at the state level. I stayed in the background allowing Dr. Fayemi to be the face of the party in the state and today, with the victory in the election, he is now the leader of the party in the state, while I will now fade into the background as one of his faithful followers.
Victory in Ilorin
At the national level, I have been involved in the various aspect of the party activities especially, in the negotiations that led to the merger between AC and Democratic People's Party and the other parties with a view to seeing that we that we perform better in the next general election.
How did you feel when the Court in Ilorin declared Dr. Kayode Fayemi the winner of the Ekiti state re-run election?
My first reaction was that of happiness and joy because I feel from the onset that Fayemi won the election on both occasions but he was cheated out of the victory. With the pronouncement of victory in Illorin we have a situation where we have been vindicated and he will finally have the opportunity to put into practice those things which he promised the people of Ekiti State
What challenges are likely to confront the new governor as he tries to put in place a new cabinet?
Well, in the first place he has been around for three and half years to know who to listen to and who not to listen to. Unfortunately for him in terms of development he will have to start from where I left off. Since I left office, I have been round Ekiti State on several occasions.
I was the first civilian governor and we tried to lay the foundation for the governments that will come after us to build on.
Unfortunately, those who came after us have not performed effectively. They have not built on that foundation. If you go round the state you will find that the subsequent administrations have done all sorts of things, built roads but look at the state of the roads, that they built today, you will be amazed that all the roads have virtually disappeared.
In fact the only existing road is the Oye-Ayede road which was the one I built. All the other roads are in a state of disrepair. So, Fayemi is going to start from where I stopped but he has an opportunity to build on what was there, he has started well and he fully understands the problems of the state and I have no doubt that he will succeed.
What about the interest groups?
That is normal in a democracy, but the good thing is that he had three and half years since his election to study the situation. That has put him in a good stead to know who he should listen to and who he should not.
What are those factors that could either advance or stymie the progress of the new administration?
Well in the first place he has identified the people who would work with him and I have no doubt that the time the cabinet is announced, people will realise that it is composed of people who are prepared to work.
Would you say that with the victory of Dr. Fayemi in Ekiti State the ACN is on ascendency and political resurgence in the South west and beyond?
If you see the out pouring of happiness and joy in the whole of Ekiti State and the South west, when Dr. Fayemi was pronounced the winner by the Appeal Court in Illorin, you will realise that our people have been suffering under a government that was forced upon them by the apostles of "do or die" politics.
We have been in opposition since 2003, we have evolved from different name and we are intent on being in the opposition until the people decide that we are the ones who should be given the mandate to rule.
We are not the type that is prepared to compromise just because we want power. We believe in integrity and we believe that this country can be taken forward. We are trying to show example of the quality of leadership can offer with the examples of Edo, Lagos and now Ekiti is coming into the fold.
If anybody is talking about states where there is development and governors that are performing he will definitely mention Lagos and Edo States. We believe that very soon the people will see the idea of what government can do.
The PDP has never won election in the South West, they have always manipulated their way and managed to stay there, but we have gotten to the point where even they themselves would realise that it will be difficult for them to get into power in the South West through manipulation.
We have no doubt that with the present chairman of INEC, Professor Attahiru Jega, who looks to me like an upright person, it will be difficult for anybody to manipulate election. Once we have free and fair election, there is no way that PDP can win in the South West.
You seem to have placed so much confidence on Prof. Jega and his INEC but we still have people like Mr. Ayoka Adebayo as REC in Ondo State?
It is difficult to rig election where the umpire is upright and determined to see that rigging does not occur. We had rigging under Professor Maurice Iwu because he condoned it despite his public pronouncements.
What he did was despicable. We all saw what happened in the Ekiti re-run. It was obvious that there was rigging and they forced Madam Ayoka to Abuja and forced her to play along with them. But we have a situation where the Chairman of INEC who knows that his job is to be unbiased, definitely I am sure he can do his best to make sure that he keeps his integrity intact.
National security remains a worrisome issue with the interception of 13 container load of arms at the Apapa Ports in Lagos last week. What is the implication of this in an election year?
Frankly speaking my initial reaction was, 'this is madness.' Of course, when I saw the content of the container, I doubted if anybody in his right mind could be importing those kinds of ammunition for election purposes but when it was reported that the arms were meant for Hamas and that Nigeria was being used as a transhipment point, I heaved a sigh of relief.
The arms we are talking about if they were meant for elections could blow off a whole village, what for?
Weapons of war
I will want to believe the Israeli people on this because the arms we are talking about are not the type that are usually associated with election activities, these are heavy ammunition, not guns and bullets. These are weapons of war.
From the incident of the bomb blasts to kidnappings and now transit point for movement of drugs and weapons, people are worried about the state of our security, what do you think?
Well, the fact that they intercepted this means that they have done well, It does not matter whether they were tipped off, the global network of security today depends on trans-border flow of information, what you do with the information is another thing. We have to commend the security agencies because where ever the arms were destined to would never have known peace.
How would you adjudge the Presidency of Dr. Goodluck Jonathan? Would you say he is in control of situations in terms of performance and security of the country?
Honestly, I feel sorry for Dr. Jonathan because he has given himself a big burden. If when he came to power he decided that he was going to conduct the elections and handover power, he would not be under tremendous pressure. One year is not enough time for ruling a country. It is not enough to assess a man. He has been there since May 6, 2010 and he has put himself on a pedestal that is difficult for people to assess before the election next year. Unfortunately for him he has not done anything people will use to assess him.
He has not had enough time to do any meaningful thing for people to adjudge him, people are going to judge him by lack of impact.


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Woman Sets Roomate On Fire Because He Threw Away Her Meatballs
Don't mess with 33-year-old Melissa Dawn Sellers' meatballs, she takes her Italian cuisine very seriously as her 42-year-old roommate Carlos Ortiz Jr found out.
After a night of drinking, the two roommates began fighting at around 2:30 a.m. The two were arguing because apparently Carlos threw out Melissa's spaghetti and meatballs, which I guess she was obviously having a craving for. Instead of just getting over it like a rational human being, the Florida woman poured nail polish remover all over her roommate's upper body, and ignited him with a lighter or cigarette.
I'm scared that she knew nail polish remover was flammable because I had no idea. But then again, I come into contact with nail polish maybe once a year so I can honestly say I'm not familiar with the product.
A friend who had seen the whole incident unfold stated that when Ortiz stood up after being burned, it was as if his face was "melting off," because that's not a horrifying mental image.
Ortiz was taken to the hospital, where he is in critical condition with burns to his face, chest, and shoulders.
Melissa has been charged with aggravated battery, and judging by her mugshot…she meant to do that much damage to him. She has this evil grin on her face. I don't trust it.


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By Bill Miller
Its versatility is legendary. Even those unfortunate enough to not spend much time in the outdoors know about the Swiss Army Knife. It's a pocketknife, but it's so much more. It's also a can opener, a corkscrew, a scissors, a saw, a file, even a tweezers and a toothpick
Typical Teutonic design principles make it functional, rugged … some say, over-built. Its color, the simple Swiss Army logo, and even its silhouette, are all iconic. When you look at it, you know exactly what it is and its purpose for being. If you are happy owning a single knife for all your outdoor needs, the Swiss Army Knife is a superb choice.
Now take that description, but put it into the nomenclature of bird dogs. You have aptly and precisely described the German Shorthaired Pointer (GSP). If you are the kind of hunter (and we're intentionally omitting the modifiers "bird" and "upland" here) who wants one dog with the capability to handle any task – in the field and at home – the GSP is a superb selection.
As might be expected from German efficiency, the name of the German Shorthaired Pointer is very specific and to the point. Germany is where it was developed. It indeed has short hair, which is a main differentiator between it and the Verein Deutsch Draathar (which translates to True German Wirehair) and the German Longhaired Pointer. And it is primarily a pointer of upland birds, but it is so much more.
Informal nicknames are simply "short hair" and GSP.
The GSP was recognized by the American Kennel Club in 1930, but in its native Germany its origins date back to the 17th century or before. According to the AKC, it's likely the GSP descended from an early breed called the German Bird Dog which itself was a combination of even earlier breeds. Along the way, there was influence of Spanish and English pointers as well as several hounds and tracking dogs. The first studbook for GSPs didn't show up until 1870.
The silhouette of a German Shorthaired Pointer locked on point, one paw lifted in the air, frozen in space and time except for the slightest quiver of that stubby tail pointed straight back, will make a bird hunter's heart skip a beat … or several. While the silhouette is universal, the color and pattern of a GSP's coat is far, far from it. Most GSP coats incorporate dark brown, called "liver", and some are black. The dog's head is usually solid or nearly solid while the body can range from solid to patched to freckled to nearly all white.
The GSP is a continental pointing dog – meaning its origins are on the continent of Europe rather than the British Isles. As is the trademark of continental breeds, the GSP has a docked tail. You may think this an unnecessary and archaic ritual, but then you've probably never hunted quail in the prickly pear or ruffed grouse in blackberry brambles or pheasants in frozen cattails, thorny plum thickets or dense willow tangles. A long tail beating the cover in merciless thorns is quickly converted into a bloody, painful, infection-prone mess. And back in their history when shorthairs' predecessors were used for cornering dangerous game like wild boar, a long tail was just another appendage onto which cornered quarry could grab a fatal hold.
The GSP is currently the 11th most popular breed in the American Kennel Club registries. It's third in the AKC sporting breeds behind only the Labrador and Golden retriever, and the GSP is the most popular pointing breed. It's also the most popular breed registered with the North American Versatile Hunting Dog Association (NAVHDA).
n its "Aims, Programs, Test Rules" NAVHDA defines versatility as "the dog that is bred and trained to dependably hunt and point game, to retrieve on both land and water, and to track wounded game on both land and water." This standard could well be the definitive description of the characteristics of the GSP. Tack on a biddable nature that makes a properly socialized shorthair a great family pet and guardian, and you have even more evidence equating the GSP breed to the iconic SAK (Swiss Army Knife) … one dog to do it all.
While the shorthair has genetics for ultimate hunting versatility, it takes the right training and environment to bring it out. GSPs tend to mature faster than other pointing breeds, but owners must resist the temptation to push too fast or train on a timetable.
Focus on the basics of obedience first. Only then should you turn to simple fieldwork. Don't graduate to more advanced skills until the foundation is securely established and proven.
If you're new to the versatile breeds, attend NAVHDA events and get to know the owners in your local breed club and versatile breed training groups.
To learn more about the breed, its standards, and what a GSP is capable of, check out resources from:
• American Kennel Club
• German Shorthaired Pointer Club of America
• North American Versatile Hunting Dog Association
It's not hard to see that GSP is the Swiss Army Knife of hunting dogs. With the right training it will handle any upland bird situation with aplomb. It will retrieve the birds you shoot, as well as web-footed fowl, and furred game like rabbits and squirrels if you ask it to. Given a chance, it will even do a masterful job of tracking down that whitetail you hit "just a little too far back." The cherry on top is that with the right socialization and the chance to get good exercise every day, a shorthair makes a terrific family dog and all-around good citizen, to boot.
Is the Swiss Army Knife the "BEST" knife for every task under the sun? Nope. None is. But with one on your side, there's not much you can't do and do very well!
Dr. Gracey Welsh gives the veterinarians view on what should be in your gun dog first aid kit.
Advice in this article is meant to help educate and prepare you, but should never substitute for a veterinary examination. If you are concerned about something with your dog, please visit your veterinarian. This is article pertains to what should be in a gun dog first aid kit.
I often get asked what the must-have items in a gun dog first aid kit are. I hope this article proves helpful to people who have been considering this question. Here is a list of my must-haves:
Saline Eye Flush: This can be purchased over the counter and is good for flushing out eyes that may have picked up seeds or other debris while out in the cover.
Saline Wound Wash: This can also be purchased over the counter. It's a great item for initial wound clean ups in the field. Many brands come in an aerosolized canisters that allow you to flush the wound with some force. This helps remove dirt and debris from the wound and is an essential first step at decontaminating a wound. I do not recommend any additives in the wound flush—just plain saline. Saline is better than water, because it is more physiologically similar to the fluid within the body. As a result, it's gentler on the cells and will not cause further damage.
Bandage Scissors: These are helpful in a variety of situations, whether it's applying bandages or cutting away snags in a coat.
Hemostats: I usually carry a variety of sizes from small to large. These are my go-to tools for removing foreign objects (quills, thorns, and others), since they grasp the object firmly and pull.
Tick Key: There are many commercial tick pullers out there (I like the ones that look like spoons with a nick in them). They're great at removing embedded ticks. Not just part of the tick, but the whole tick.
Non-Adherent Pad: These are coated gauze pads which provide some absorbing action and are a great first layer for bandaging bleeding wounds. Since they don't stick to the open skin, they peel away without causing further pain or damage. You can purchase them in bulk from many medical supply stores or drug stores.
Cast Padding: This soft bulky material is the second layer in any bandage and is used to hold the non-adherent pad in place over a wound. Two to three layers of cast padding provide pressure and protection to an affected area.
Stretch Gauze or 'Cling' Wrap: This is the third layer in an appropriate bandage. It provides more pressure and security to the previously applied cast padding. One layer is usually sufficient over the cast padding.
Vet Wrap: This self adhering wrap is a literal lifesaver. It's traditionally the fourth layer in a bandage application, but can also be used as a tourniquet or a sling for a limb. It's uses are limitless…
Gauze Squares: Helpful to stop bleeding, apply pressure, clean up blood, and provide extra padding.
Digital Thermometer: In instances where heat stroke or hypothermia are possible, you'll need to check your dog's rectal temperature.
1-inch medical tape: Like vet wrap, this is a must have.
Individual sterile lubricant packets: I use these for protecting dog wounds until we can address them more appropriately. After flushing, putting lubricant in a wound will keep out further debris until the wound can be further assessed. It can also make temperature taking more comfortable!
Benadryl Tablets: Useful for allergic reactions in the field.
Hydrogen Peroxide: I don't recommend using this to clean wounds, as I prefer saline wash. However, this is good at cleaning up blood from hair and skin around the wound. Getting rid of all that dried blood will help you better assess wound size and depth. Hydrogen peroxide is also a good emergency emetic, if your dog ingests something potentially harmful. Ideally, you would only use hydrogen peroxide in this way under the direction of a veterinarian. Some poisons are more harmful if they come back up.
Honey Packets: These are helpful for dogs who experience hypoglycemia or shock events in the field. They can be applied to the gums to provide a quick blood sugar boost.
Iodine scrub: Good for cleaning abrasions or wounds.
Latex Gloves: Wear them to keep wounds clean as you bandage or assess them.
Mylar Emergency Blanket: Very helpful for dogs experiencing shock or hypothermia.
Instant Cold Pack: Provides relief to swollen or painful areas and can be activated on demand, becoming cold within minutes.
Flea/Tick Comb: Removes any bugs that your dog may have picked up.
Dawn Dish Soap: If your dog has an encounter with skunks or gets into a potentially toxic material such as oil, gas, or crop fertilizer, it's a good idea to rinse him down in this. Some dangerous chemicals can soak into the skin; it's best to not risk that.
Skin Stapler: Not everyone feels comfortable using these on their dog, but they can be helpful to close large wounds. In most cases, however, a pressure bandage will do the trick. Note that if you close a wound in the field with a stapler, the staples should be removed as soon as you are out of the woods. After that, the wound should be properly cleaned and assessed. If it needs to be closed more permanently, do it under the sterile conditions of a veterinary hospital. A skin stapler is not a replacement for a vet visit!
Veterinary first aid book: A good go-to guide for help during common situations. There are many respectable books on the market to choose from.
Emergency Phone Number: Make sure that you have the phone number of your veterinarian and the closest emergency veterinarians on hand. If you're hunting in new places, this should always be part of your research. Find out where veterinarians are located and if they will see new clients on an emergency basis. Not all will.
You may have noticed that I did not list aspirin. In my professional opinion, there are almost no circumstances where giving your dog aspirin is necessary. Especially in an emergency situation. Aspirin can be toxic to dogs and can interfere with other drugs that may need to be given in a veterinary setting.
I will admit that I don't carry all of this with me when in the field. Rather, it lives in a gun dog first aid kit in the back of the truck. It's best to carry some small supplies with you, like a roll of vet wrap or gauze. That way, you can tackle issues that arise more immediately until you get back to the truck.
Spending time to familiarize yourself with common veterinary emergencies and appropriate care—before you are faced with emergency—can save you time and your dog's life. Ask your trusted veterinarian for their advice on common emergencies. Or, take the time to read a veterinary first aid book. Some locations regularly host dog first aid classes.
Ten Commandments of Firearm Safety
Poetry Shooting Club promotes the safe use of guns at all times.
Below are the Ten Commandments of Firearm Safety which are taught in every state during their Hunter Education Classes. To learn more about hunter education classes in your state visit www.hunter-ed.com.
- Watch that muzzle!
ALWAYS keep your muzzle pointed in a safe direction.
- Treat EVERY firearm as if it were loaded.
The firearm might be loaded, even if you do not think so.
- Be sure of the target, what is in front, above, to the sides and beyond.
Know the identifying features of the game you hunt. Make sure you have an adequate backstop – don't shoot at a flat, hard surface or water.
- Keep your finger off the trigger until you are ready to shoot.
This is the best way to prevent an unplanned discharge.
- Check your barrel and ammunition.
Make sure the barrel and action are clear of obstructions, and carry only the proper ammunition for your firearm.
- Unload firearms when not in use.
Leave actions open, and carry firearms in cases and unloaded to and from the shooting area.
- Point a firearm only at something you intend to shoot.
Avoid all horseplay with a gun.
- DON'T run, jump or climb with a loaded firearm.
Unload a firearm before you climb a fence or tree, or jump a ditch. Pull a firearm toward you by the butt, not the muzzle
- Store firearms and ammunition separately and securely.
Store each in secured locations beyond the reach of children and careless adults.
- Avoid alcoholic beverages before and during shooting.
Also avoid mind – or behavior – altering prescription medicines or drugs.
Ask Rowdy – Issues with 16 mo old GSP with no training
Hi Rowdy Thanks one more time for sharing.What about this situation. I am in touch with a man who has two GSP males 16 months old that have not been worked. He owns the parents and tells a story of them being trailed and doing well. The pups are AKC registered and the old man is in bad health and wanting to get them in a place where they will get work. He is softly asking $500 each which in these times sounds like a deal. What would be the concerns with dogs this age and no bird work?
The concerns would be socializaiton and the type of birddogs they are. If they are dual quality, true Shorthairs (Kurzhaars) with extnesive socialization you are in great shape. If they have been tucked away in a kennel with no human contact and are all-age quality dogs, you are fucked. Find out what quality they are or get a copy of their pedigrees and let me look at it. Also find out what kind of socialization they have had.
Bird work is not even close to being a problem.
Tell me more what this means "dual quality, true Shorthairs (Kurzhaars)" and also "are all-age quality dogs,"'
Your old dog Heisman was a Kurzhaar. Kurzhaar is the German word for Shorthair.
No pointer crossed into them. I guarantee Josie has more Pointer than Shorthair in her.
"All-age" is the craziest birddogs. They want to run from here to forever and not look back. They are thoroughbreds on steroids with a white coat.
Josie, for example, would be a mild example of an all-age dog.
Yes I remember you touching on this information before. Very interesting indeed. I will get some more background information the owner sounds like he has been a bird dog man a good long while. He says he has the sire and dam and one is one pass away from a champion something or other. AKC papered which I guess does not mean much. Can you look a pictures and know about the dogs breeding??
To a certain extent. I have been out of Shorthairs for about seven years, so it's harder now. I can tell you if they are crossed with a Pointer or not.
Ask Rowdy E-Collar & Whoa Training
Ask Rowdy one asks One question for you, if you don't mind giving advice. My brother always says that you should never stimulate the dog with the eCollar when she's on a bird, for fear that you will accidentally punish her for finding birds. From viewing the video that came with my collar, and some of the resources that you've pointed me towards, however, I don't think that is necessarily true. I have worked really hard to keep Gracey from thinking of the collar as punishment, and when she starts to creep when we're just working on "woah" at the backyard or in the field, if I give her a really light stimulation and repeat the "woah" command, she locks back up again. So I guess my question is – if she has a bird pointed, and I see that she's getting ready to creep, do you think it's okay to lightly bump her with the collar, or is that a no-no?
I'll give you a short synapsis of how I train my dogs and give you the "why" then I' ll answer your question in a more general sense. I train my dogs by giving them plenty of pen bird exposure as young dogs. By "young", I mean roughly four to six monhts of age, depending on the dog. Pen raised birds are great, but they should only be offered in certain settings. After my dog is of a certain age I take away the pen raised birds until we're starting the breaking process and I go exclusively with wild birds. I go to GREAT lengths to get a dog on ample wild birds. If I can just get him on two or three bird contacts the entire time I have him still keep him off pen raised birds.
Then the breaking. I teach a dog to Stand. Standing is much like Whoaing, but there is no command. You start it by pulling up on a lead and walking away then transfer it over to the eCollar so you can be a hundred yards away, stimulate them around the neck with the collar and they stop dead in their tracks. Then we start birds work. There are several steps, but essentially you let the dog establish point and when he takes his first step – or if you can read him to tell before he takes his first step – you launch the bird and stimulate him to stand. No words are spoken. There are only a few things different about this method and most other methods, but the differences are suttle, though huge. First, you don't talk AT ALL. The dog goes on point, you don't say a word. The dog creeps, you don't say a word. The dog stands up and does the Waltz, you don't say a word to him. Nothing. This keeps it between the dog and the bird. This is huge. Think about if your dog knows the stimulation is coming form you because you yell Whoa to coincide with the stimulation.
Now, when you're hunting the dog breaks a hill and slams on point two hundred yards out. He wants to creep and he will because you're not there and he's not moved in the past because he's been on Whoa, not because he's actually been pointing. Next, launching the bird the minute he moves any part of his body makes the training session not a standoff betwen the dog wanting to get closer to the bird, but having to face the shock from the collar. Think of it. Everything in this dog's genetic makeup for hundreds of years has made him want to get the bird. Period, end of story. But, we're laying this out to say, "Okay, if you go after the bird you're going to be shocked. Go ahead and try it." That doesn't make sense. What happens when he takes the first step and is stimulated? He realizes the bird didn't move so he can take another step. He just has to get the gumption up to get past the shock. He takes another step, gets shocked and the bird still hasn't moved. Let's take my method (LARGELY taken from the West method). He takes a steps and BOOM! The bird is up and gone and he gets a queue with the collar saying to stay put. The queue isn't enough for a correction, just enough to convince him not to move.
Next time he goes on point he'll think twice about moving because he doesn't want the bird to be gone. Pretty soon he'll get the idea and he'll stay put. If you just want him to be steady to the flush you can let him break IF he can hold and let you flush the bird. If he flushes the bird, you make him stand after. See, we humans tend to make a mountain of a difference between pen raised birds and wild bird. The dog comes into wild birds and they often time flush before the dog gets to them. On the other hand we leave a pen raised bird on the ground until the paint dries. It takes the excitement out of it for the dogs. I often time don't let the dogs point, often times I wait until the dog gets close enough to get a really great view of the bird then launch it. He thinks, "Goodness, these birds are spooky!"
Your brother is right… and he's wrong. I had stimulated dogs on point once upon a time, but never could have made it work. I don't know why, but it must have been the way I was doing it. I've seen some people be able to train dogs this way and do wonderfully at it. It is all very, very subjective. The only "law" I consider to be truth in birddogs is to not hurt a dog. I don't force break my dogs because I don't like to put undue pressure on them. There is a joke that Ronnie Smith told me once. It went, "The only thing two dog trainers can agree on is what the third is doing wrong, but still can't agree on how he's doing it wrong." I don't mean to be vague or elusive with my reply, but I have seen this very much in dogs.
There are SO many different methods and such and there are so many who think they have the absolute best way to train a dog that it is insane. I talk to people online who tell me about how they're training their dog. In my head I think, "Oh, no. You don't want to do that!" But, I just smile and tell them how great that is because it is great. Don't hurt your dog and never, ever stop learning, reading, etc. Don't listen to someone who says he's got the best method and there are no others who equal it. Follow these few rules and you and your dog should have a very many great days afield. I'm sorry for any typos. I had surgery not too long ago and it affected my ability to read, so proo reading is rough.
You can alter the grammar, etc.
Chat Conversation End
Target Practicing in Awkward Positions
Target Practicing in Awkward Positions
When at the range it is easy to get comfortable shooting from the shooting table with and without gun holding assistance like the lead sled. Plenty of shooters practice regularly shooting free style, off sticks and prone on the ground. Now the next step is to set up the unexpected and awkward shooting scenarios. Competitive target shooters and real, life hunters will encounter situations where they need to shoot awkward and often uncomfortable shooting positions. This kind of shooting take practice and time to set up the challenges. Lots of everyday items can be used to simulate the awkward places a shooter might encounter. Trash cans laid down, rocks plied up, logs and tree limbs piled up, an old chain link gate to shoot through, an opened end drum to shoot through, holes cut in ply wood , old doors and with some imagination many more items from around your home, your work and trash on the curb.
Here at Poetry Shooting Club we are always looking for ways to support the young shooters coming along. My friend Ray Sasser with the Dallas Morning News shared his belief that youngsters needed to have some real life shooting experiences at the range. Many times youngsters find themselves at the deer lease; cold, sometimes wet, in smelly, creepy, buggy deer blind, usually with awkward seating arrangement and expected to rise to the occasion acquire the target and place the perfect shot.
We wanted to help these youngsters so we now have some pop up blinds for youngster to come sit in and practice shooting out of with the target appears. We can also set it up on the pond for clay pigeon shooting from the blind requiring standing up to "Get Em" overhead.
So in the future try to think of different and awkward shooting positions to practice from before the day of the hunt.
Hunters and competitive target shooters are sometimes required to shoot from many different and potentially uncomfortable positions. To be quick and effective requires practice. In this video Clint Smith, President and Director of Thunder Ranch Training Center, walks us through a shooting course designed to simulate several real world shooting environments and provides helpful pointers how to engage targets more effectively.
Should I shoot one-eyed or two?
Beretta Blog
Should I Shoot One-Eyed or Two? – Shooting Tips
Posted by Sara Ahrens
on Jul 31, 2013 9:00:00 AM
When responding to a stimulus, 80% of sensory input derives from the visual sense. This process requires the use of both sides of the brain in order function. Both the left and right hemispheres of the brain share the information acquired through visual input.
When shooting one-eyed, shooters don't get the full picture. As a matter of fact, without the use of both eyes, many visual functions are limited.
Many shooters initially learn to shoot with one eye and it is a habit that is hard to break. The benefits of shooting two-eyed, however, make learning this skill worthwhile.
Drawbacks of Shooting One-Eyed
There are many disadvantages to shooting with one eye. For those who carry concealed, they do so for self-defense or defense of others. Closing one eye negatively impacts the visual system. Visual acuity decreases, as does depth perception, balance, and spatial orientation.
These are important tasks that must not be sacrificed during serious situations. Shooting under stress complicates things further. Shooting with one eye will decrease the speed and efficiency of information processing. This means that it takes longer for the brain to process the information needed to react. In critical situations, our brain cycles through a process known as the OODA loop (Observe, Orient, Decide, Act). This is important for threat assessment and reaction time. In addition, after addressing a target, the shooter needs to determine the effectiveness of their actions, and identify the existence of other threats.
Benefits of Shooting Two-Eyed
Shooting with both eyes aids survival. Research has found that both eyes will remain open during a shooting. This is instinctive and cannot be controlled. Therefore, it would be advantageous to learn to shoot with both eyes before being faced with a deadly force situation.
Even though it's instinctive, practicing the skill increases success rates. The eyes are complicated organs. They are offset, each interpreting visual stimuli from a slightly different perspective. Each eye takes in visual stimulus, and the information from each eye is transmitted from separate sides of the brain to the other. Field of vision occurs when both eyes converge. This convergence allows us to see in three dimensions, determine distances and speed, allow for spatial orientation, and assists with balance.
Our visual sensitivity and hand-eye coordination increases when binocular vision is employed. Visual sensitivity is the ability to respond to physiological changes. This sensitivity provides the shooter with the ability to respond to changes in the environment. It is more than twice as great using both eyes (duh, right?). The shooter will experience an increase in efficiency in hand-eye coordination, also known as visual-motor task.
When addressing a target less than three feet it is virtually impossible to determine distance. So determining distances up to 25 during a shooting situation can be extremely difficult, if not impossible. Distances beyond three feet can be judged only by visual cues, which require moving the head back and forth. Individuals with monocular vision are often unable to drive because of being unable to determine distances, they are seven times as likely to be involved in accidents than other motorists.
The use of two eyes in low light situations can increase one's success when addressing a target. Many shooting situations occur in low light situations. The eye contains cones and rods. The rods are dominant in bright lighting conditions, whereas rods are dominant in low light conditions. The rods are what allow the eye to see detail. The more lighting decreases, the more prominent the cones are in the eyes. This diminishes details that may be necessary for determining whether or not an object presents a threat. Using two eyes while shooting or even assessing a threat, allows for more light to enter the eye. This additional lighting increases our ability to see more details, thus decreasing the OODA loop.
One Eye Or Two? Survey Says…TWO!
Shooting with both eyes open is a skill worthy of learning
Clearly the research indicates that the benefits of learning to shoot with two eyes have a significant positive impact during shooting situations. Shooting with two eyes will improve hand-eye coordination; allow shooters to determine speed and distance of a threat. It allows for spatial orientation and allows us to maintain balance. In addition, it increases our field of vision and shortens our OODA loop in low light situations. Since it has been proven that shooters will leave their eyes open in a shooting situation it is best to practice the skill before it is needed. And although this was probably not the intent of an old adage – it certainly applies; two eyes are better than one.
Crate Training your Quail Bird Dog
Many old time bird dog trainers advocated teaching the first command to be " Kennel" for young bird dogs. The crate is first used to teach the command kennel and later the command kennel can be used with a point to the pick up, outdoor kennel, a crate, porch or most anywhere and your quail hunting machine will go where you want them to go without question.
by Geoffrey English
Often clients ask, "What do you think about crate training?" My standard answer, "Crate training is the most misunderstood training technique a new dog owner faces today. Like most things in life, people often criticize what they don't understand. Personally, I crate train all my dogs that live in the house. Many people have a misconception about what crate training is or what it is not." In this month's article I will attempt to dispel some of the myths about crate training and give you some simple techniques that you can begin using today to make the process of crate training easy and create a "domestic den" for your dog.
When done properly, crate training offers dog owners two valuable benefits. First, the crate becomes the place your dog can call home. Second, crate training can considerably speed up the housebreak process.
A Place Your Dog Can Call Home
If you step back in time and look at the canine before man's domestication – the wolf, you would find a "denning animal" that naturally made himself or herself a home in small burrows on the side of hills and underneath blow downs. These burrows or "dens" were constructed to escape from predators. The early canine quickly realized that a small den just large enough to turn around in would offer shelter from the elements and allow them to efficiently conserve on body heat during the winter months.
Have you ever noticed where your dog goes to escape the hustle and bustle of family life? Inevitably, you will find him or her out of the traffic area and lying under a table or a chair. These areas offer you're dog the solitude he so desperately seeks. Dogs feel more secure in "denning" environments. If he wishes to get away from the kids or the active of your family you will find that he will retreat to his crate / domestic den. Employing the use of a crate in your home will provide your dog with a place he can call home.
A Home Away From Home
Whether you're on the road in competition or on vacation, the crate provides a convenient portable den that offers dogs and owners a safe and stress-free way to travel. I have found dogs that are crate trained will experience much less stress on overnight trips than dogs that are not crate trained. This can often be the factor that makes for a successful day in the field.
Crate Training and Housebreaking
Dealing with a crying puppy is often the first problem a new puppy owner must face when crate training. Start by placing your puppy in his new crate for very short intervals. Sometimes beginning with sessions measured in seconds rather than minutes or hours is the best approach. Even better yet, try feeding your puppy in a crate. This will help your young dog establish a positive association towards the crate.
Try placing an garment or blanket with the mother's scent on it in the crate with the puppy. Additionally, placing a ticking alarm clock outside the kennel can be comforting to your new puppy for the first few nights away from his littermates.
During the first night a puppy is separated from the rest of the litter he will often whine and fuss. This behavior is a very natural survival skill learned early in life. Whether in the whelping box or in the wild, a puppy learns very quickly that when separated from the pack, calls for help will allow other members of the pack to quickly located him, thus reuniting him with his peers. To that extent, many animal behaviorists recommend allowing a new puppy to sleep in the same room with you to reduce this separation anxiety.
Moving a crate into your bedroom accomplishes two things. First, as stated above, it reduces separation anxiety for the puppy. Second, it allows you to monitor your puppy's housebreaking routine. Before putting your puppy up for the night, make sure he has had a chance to go outside and eliminate.
Inevitably, you will find that as you close the door to the crate he will begin to whine and fuss. Never let your dog out of the crate if he is crying. At first this may not sound logical. But remember, dogs learn quickly through associations. If you open the door when he cries he will quickly think crying opens the door. At this point you will want to introduce a "NO NOISE" command and bang your hand on the top of the crate. If the puppy continues to whine, just ignore him. The last thing you want to do is reward this behavior by opening the crate door and comforting him. The only exception to this rule is when crying is a result of having to go to the bathroom. Therefore you will need to go on those "midnight-walks". Then if at all possible, wait for a break in the crying before opening the door, even if it is a break for only10 seconds.
The crate can be an effective tool when housebreak your new companion. The underlying reason for this is fairly simple. Dogs normally will not eliminate in the same areas they live. It's only when a dog has been left in a crate too long that they are forced to eliminate in the crate. Remember, young dogs are not physically able to "hold-it" for hours and hours on end. So when deciding to put your youngster up for the evening, be mindful of how long he or she will be able to comfortably "hold-it". During the night, if your puppy seems to be stirring, get up and take him outside immediately. With puppies you may have to carry them outside to avoid accidents. Once he has had a chance to relieve himself, bring him straight back inside to his crate. If he begins to fuss again, issue the "NO NOISE" command and be consistent.
After a few nights of dealing with the whining and carrying on, your puppy should begin to make it through the night with minimal fussing. Crate training takes time and sometimes requires a "deaf ear" on your part. Use common sense and consistency in your approach and soon the answer, as whether to crate or not to crate will become obvious. Good luck and enjoy your new puppy.
Rules to live by when crate training
1. The crate should never be used to punish your dog.
2. Keep the introduction to the crate short and sweet. Let the dog get comfortable with the crate before attempting to close the door on him. Once you close the door, reward him with praise and/or a treat. Keep the first few sessions with the door shut short. Ten seconds without crying is what you're striving for. Open the door and give him lots of love and praise. Slowly, and I mean slowly, increase the time with the door shut.
3. Select the proper size crate for your dog. If you buy a crate that is large enough to accommodate him when he is full-sized, block off an area inside the crate to make it just large enough for him to stand up and turn around. Making it too large will allow him to soil one area and live in the other.
4. Pick up your dog's water 3-4 hours before putting him up for the night.
5. Allow your dog to eliminate completely prior to being put up for the night.
6. Take him outside immediately upon letting him out of the crate. With puppies, you may have to carry them outside to avoid accidents.
7. Let him naturally find the crate in your kitchen, living room or wherever you decide the crate will reside. Make sure you place the crate in an area well circulated, free of drafts, and out of direct sunlight. Placing food in the back of the crate will encourage your pet to explore and enter this new area.
8. Never let your dog out of the crate if he is crying.
9. Have a vigorous play session before to going to bed.
10. An undergarment or a ticking alarm clock can comfort a new puppy during his first few nights away from his littermates.
11. Never disturb your dog when he seeks solitude in his crate. Remember this is his domestic den and like you, he needs valuable time alone.
12. Finally, be patient and committed to the process.
Quail hunting dogs must be well trained as they will spend a lot of time with and around their owner. The better the quail hunting dog is trained with basic obedience the better the quail hunting dog will hunt quail in the field and be enjoyable as a pet.
by George Hickox
Training a young dog is an art, a science and a religion, as helping a genetically sound pup to become a world-class bird dog is a passion that requires a substantial commitment of time. Self-trained dogs are normally delinquents. When you purchase a pup, you make a pledge to bring that dog along right, and just as with other arts, sciences and religions, there are guidelines. If you adhere to the following 10 Commandments of Bird Dog Training, your chances of producing a first-rate gundog will be much improved.
1) Socialize Your Pup
I can't stress enough that puppies not properly socialized will never reach their full potential. In my experience, pups isolated from positive people contact prior to 12 weeks of age are a trainer's albatross.
I recently received a letter from an individual who had purchased a six-month-old dog. Since birth, the dog had been kenneled with its littermates, and when anyone approached the enclosure all puppies had sought refuge in the doghouse. At eight months the pup was reticent and timid. I was sorry to have to tell the owner that because of this lack of socialization it would be almost impossible to make his dog into a first-rate hunting companion.
During your dog's first six months it is critical that the pup comes to know and love you and that you learn to understand the pup's developing personality. You will see the pup mature and its ability to concentrate increase. A key ingredient in training is to know when the dog is ready to learn as well as when it's ready to move on.
To properly expose the pup, take it for walks where it will be introduced to new scents, people and other animals. Let strangers spoil it. Pup needs to see the world, not just your backyard.
2) Keep Your Pup Healthy
Establish a relationship with a local veterinarian, and keep pup's preventatives for parvo, distemper, adenovirus, coronavirus, leptovirus, rabies and heartworm current. Regular checkups will ensure that pup stays healthy and free of parasites. Vaccinating against Lyme disease may be recommended if this tick-transmitted disease exists in your area.
Check pup's ears and skin for mites and fleas as well as its teeth for tartar buildup. A table where the pup will get used to being off the ground and handled at eye level is a great training aid and makes it easier for you to give a thorough canine health care exam.
Use a quality chicken- or meat-base food. Do not feed too much protein to your growing pup. Slow, even growth is preferable to fast growth. A premium chicken-base food in the 24- to 28-percent protein and IS-to 20-percent fat category is about right.
The amount you feed will change rapidly as pup grows. The benchmark is being able to feel the dog's ribs. Do not overfeed, as a fat puppy is more prone to hip and bone disorders. And always be sure pup has an ample supply of fresh water.
3) Do Not Rush Training
I tell clients in my dog training schools, "If I wanted my son to be a plumber, I wouldn't give him a wrench on his first birthday." In other words, do not expect unrealistic feats from your pup. Too much early formal training may take style and pizzazz out of a youngster. It is wiser to err on the side of caution.
Pup will need to learn certain commands from a safety standpoint and for acceptable behavior in the house. For example, early on you will want to teach the pup "No" and that biting is intolerable. You can also start teaching "Here" by running away from the puppy saying "Here, here, here." When the youngster gets to you, reward it with a treat, an "Attaboy" or a pat.
When the dog is 10 to 12 weeks old, you can begin teaching "Sit, Hup" or "Whoa." Don't make the dog comply for long periods. Your job at this stage is to show the pup what the command means, not demand that it responds like a pro. I don't like to teach "Sit" to the pointing breeds before I teach "Whoa." Pups that are taught "Sit" first have a tendency to sit when being taught "Whoa."
If you have a pointing breed, you can play "wing on a string," but don't overdo it. This is a sight game and, if overdone, may encourage creeping. I play this game only to bring out the pointing instinct in dogs up to 12 to 14 weeks old. Developing retrieving instincts early is beneficial. Use a rolled up sock, dog training dummy or tennis ball. Start the pup off retrieving in a corridor so it cannot run away with its prize. The object you use for these sessions should not be left around for the dog to chew on; it is a treat.
4) Be the Pack Leader
It is imperative you understand that pup is a pack animal. If you are not perceived as the pack leader, pup will do whatever it wants whenever it wants. That dream of a well-behaved gunning companion will become a nightmare featuring a bird busting rebel hunting out of range.
I'm not saying you need constantly to project a tough-guy image, but I do believe it is necessary to be a fair boss. It is much easier to establish yourself as pack leader early on than to try to realign an 18-month-old delinquent.
An effective way to establish yourself as boss is to place two fingers into pup's mouth behind the canine teeth while grasping the dog's lower jaw with your thumb. Pup will try to pull away and get your fingers out of its mouth. Don't talk; just keep your fingers where they are. The dog will eventually accept that you are in control.
Also, don't strike a dog with your hands. You don't want it to become hand-shy. Picking the pup up and handling it, using the training table and touching the pads of the dog's feet will help the young dog understand that you're in charge.
5) Train by Repetition
Consistent performance in response to your commands should be one of your training goals. This is accomplished through repetition, as a dog learns by rote, much as you did when learning multiplication tables. Keep in mind that a dog's attention span is limited; therefore short, frequent training sessions are far more effective than longer but fewer lessons.
Get into the habit of saying a command only once. Say the command, then make the pup comply. A well-trained dog performs the first time and will only do this if you demand excellence. If your dog learns it does not have to obey "Here" the first time, you may just lose it to a speeding truck on a back road.
6) Don't Overhandle
I have a friend to whom I'm going to give a roll of duct tape and a pair of handcuffs for Christmas. The duct tape is to place over his mouth and the handcuffs are to prevent him from flailing his arms needlessly while training his dog.
A command from my friend goes something like this: "C'mon, Baby, pick it up; hey, Sweetheart, bring it on over here; good girl, fetch it to Daddy; c'mon, you know what to do." And all this is accompanied with waving arms and pats on the chest and thighs. My dogs are not that smart; they respond better to one-syllable commands such as "Fetch." All that sweet talk simply confuses the dog. Again, say the command once.
7) Use Building Blocks
All training experiences interlock. Each level of training must be solid if you're to eventually hunt over a showcase gundog.
It is improbable that your dog will be steady to wing if it is not staunch on point. Think of your training as building on the dog's experiences and the commands pup has learned, and understand that your dog, no matter how intelligent, is no Einstein. The teaching of commands must be broken down into sub-parts. "Throw me the football. . . . No, pick it up first." Thus, the command "Fetch" involves running or swimming to the object, picking it up, returning to you and making a proper delivery.
Your training, particularly at the more advanced levels, such as teaching blind retrieves, will proceed more effectively if you build one command on top of another, making sure that every command is solid before moving on.
8) Don't Lose Your Temper
As a trainer, you are a teacher first and foremost. This doesn't mean you won't have to wear the hat of disciplinarian at times; you will. However, there are a few principles involving correction that will serve you well.
Don't discipline a dog for not complying with a command it does not understand. I once saw a handler command "Whoa" to his setter as the dog was chasing a bird. The handler then captured and disciplined the dog. In this case the owner had not taught the pup "Whoa." Thus, the dog had no idea why it was being corrected.
A dog must be corrected at the place of the infraction at the time of the infraction. If you command "Sit" at point A and the dog moves to point B, don't discipline it at point B. Bring the pup back to point A and demand that it sits. If you command "Here" and the dog runs off before eventually returning, do not discipline the dog. It will think it is being disciplined for coming back to you.
Don't discipline because you are angry or frustrated. Correct in order to teach the dog you are the pack leader and demand your commands be carried out once they have been taught. If you lose your cool, end the training session. Dogs are very aware of body language and if you are agitated, your dog will short-circuit and become confused.
Don't resort to a "quick fix" by using an electronic dog training collar to punish your dog. A dog must be conditioned to electronic training, which I will cover in another article.
9) Expose Your Dog to the Gun Properly
"I brought my dog to the gun club to get him accustomed to the sound of gunshots." Wrong! Wrong! Wrong!
There are dogs that, having never heard a gun, would be just fine if a rooster flushed in their face and a barrage of shots followed. However, assume this wouldn't be the case with your dog.
Getting a pup used to loud noises such as banging pans and shutting doors is beneficial. But when I introduce a dog to the gun I want the dog confident around birds first. The local preserve is the ticket, if you do not have birds available for "home use." When I introduce the dog to the gun, it has chased a lot of quail and pigeons and is bold and confident around birds. Throwing a taped-wing pigeon or releasing it via a bird launcher so that the bird flies 30 or 40 yards with the dog in full pursuit, I fire a cap pistol just before the pigeon comes to the ground. Everything in the dog's mind at this moment says, I've got you, bird! I've got you! The dog's focus is on the bird and, because the pup is bold and confident, the gun is not an issue. I then proceed cautiously and, over time, work my way up to a .410, then to a 20-gauge, then to a 12.
10) Expose Your Dog to Birds
This is what it's all about- the button popping pride of watching your pup develop into a world-class shooting dog. The more birds your dog is exposed to, the more experience the youngster gets, the better bird dog it will become. But your dog will first need to learn to hunt. It won't learn this in the backyard sitting perfectly, holding a dog training dummy in its mouth. Birds, birds, birds. This is the key to your dog learning to hunt. If you don't live in an area where Pup can find lots of wild birds, join a hunting preserve or lease a farmer's field and use pen-raised birds. The bottom line is that if your dog does not see birds, it will never become an accomplished bird dog.
Target Camera Rentals
Range Target Camera System. See your shot placement from where you are shooting up to 2,500 yards. This range target camera system uses radio technology, not Wi-Fi and it works flawlessly with out concern for mirage or distance. This system is well engineered, great design and very durable. You will be satisfied and save so much time for the long range shooter. No more frequent trips down range.
Standard Model: Range Target Camera System is for a complete unit with 7 inch monitor, camera, batteries, charger and a durable Pelican Storm Case . Can be used with up to six cameras. Priced at $785.00; extra cameras at $265.00 each, high boost antennas with extension cords at $60.00 each for over 500 yards. Tripods suggested for camera, monitor and boost antennas depending on application. Tripods may be ordered with the system or purchased locally.
New Addition For 2014. Range Target Camera System is a complete unit with larger, easier to see 10 .5 inch monitor, camera batteries and charger in a larger durable Pelican Storm Case big enough for three cameras. Good for up to six cameras. $1,085.00; Extra Cameras $265.00 each; high boost antennas with extension cords $265.00 each for over 500 yards. Tripods suggested for camera, monitor and boost antennas depending on application. Trip ods may be ordered with the system or purchased locally.
Coming Early 2015. Weather Station on the camera with wind speed and direction information shown to the shooter. Also a flashing indicator for last shot and color indicators for different shot groups. Different lens available for special applications.
Poetry Shooting Club offers free demonstration for members with first time use. Rent is $20 per session.


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Discus Wars: How Many Species Are There?Author: Wayne S. Leibel
In a recent article that appeared in the December 2006 issue of TFH, I asked the question "How Many Discus Species Are There?" The answer, according to fish collector/explorer Heiko Bleher in his new discus book (Bleher's Discus Volume 1, 2006, Aquapress, Italy), which appeared this past summer, and which I reviewed in that article, was three—Symphysodon discus, S. aequifasciatus, and S. haraldi. Just when you thought it was safe to go back into the discus tank, however, recent developments suggest otherwise. In a recently published scientific study out of noted South American ichthyologist Sven O. Kullander's lab in
A Quick Recap
To summarize Bleher's (2006) proposed three species, he recognizes the so-called "Heckel discus" Symphysodon discus Heckel, 1840, which is distinguished from the others principally on the basis of their unique black vertical barring pattern in which the first, fifth, and ninth of nine vertical bars are wider and darker than the remaining six. They also sport a conspicuous body striping pattern of parallel, longitudinal iridescent vermiform stripes.
Bleher also recognizes the green discus: Symphysodon aequifasciatus Pellegrin, 1904, again distinguished principally by their distinctive color pattern which, in addition to the nine black vertical bars of equal intensity (aequifasciatus means "equal bars"), consists of small red dots of varying number on the body. These sometimes occur over the entire body and may include red dotted lines, and almost always occur on the anal fin region.
He also recognizes as a third distinct species, the blue discus Symphysodon haraldi Schultz, 1960, a lumping of "brown" and "blue" discus types. This species has the typical aequifasciatus equal vertical black stripes but otherwise is highly variable in body coloration from totally brown to all-over blue parallel striping (in the best specimens, not unlike that of the Heckel discus).
In an attempt to resolve the systematic confusion surrounding discus species and coloration morphs, Bleher collected discus widely throughout the Amazon, photographed them alive, and took fin clips (a good source of DNA when gently preserved in ethanol) from them and returned these to Germany for genetic evaluation by the well-respected fish molecular systematics team of Dr. Axel Meyer and associates. While the paper is, according to Bleher's book, currently "in press" (Stolting, K., Salzburger, W., Bleher, H. and A. Meyer, 2006. Preliminary Revision of the Genus Symphysodon Heckel. Aqua, Journal of Ichthyology and Aquatic Biology: Special Publication), his recent presentation at the July 2006 American Cichlid Association convention of genetic haplotype maps using various DNA markers seemed to indicate three major genetic groupings corresponding to the three morphologically distinct species he is recognizing/promoting. All, scientists and hobbyist alike, eagerly await publication of these results.
Different Data
In the meantime, Kullander's group (Ready et al., 2006) has published their results based on a similarly extensive (though not as exhaustive) sampling of discus from along their near-linear Amazonian floodplain distribution. Discus are restricted to areas where seasonal flooding occurs, therefore they are found only near the main stem of the Amazon River itself and in the lower reaches of its tributaries on the Amazonian floodplain. In this study, discus were sampled widely from east to west (
As in Bleher's pending study, newly collected discus were photographed alive and tissue samples taken from them for later DNA analysis. Molecular data (DNA sequencing) were obtained from 23 individuals, qualitative data on color patterns and body shape characteristics were determined from photos of 263 live fish, and morphological characteristics—fin and scale counts (meristics) and rhomboid body measurements—were taken for 94 fish.
Color pattern characters that were scored included: anal fin red color (absent to much); extension of anal fin color into body (absent to extended); anal fin pattern (none, red spots or small streaks on blue base, thin red lines on blue base with lines thinner than base, thick red lines on blue base of equal width, thick red lines reticulating over blue base); body base color (light brown, brown, green/brown, gray green); forehead marking (absent, few blue stripes, moderate stripes, many stripes continuing to dorsal fin); and red spots on body (absent/present). Body shape was scored with respect to forehead shape (flat slope, slightly rounded, mainly rounded, completely rounded) and overall body shape (elongate, intermediate, discoid).
Analysis of Data
Before this most recent study, Kullander (2003. Family Cichlidae. In: Checklist of Freshwater Fishes of South and Central America, Reis et al. editors, Porto Alegre) only recognized as valid the two aforementioned species which are easily discriminated based on color/barring pattern: S. discus, found in the central Amazon Basin in the Rio Negro, Abacaxis, and Trombetas drainages and S. aequifasciatus, found along almost the entire length of the Amazon from 49 to 70 west longitudes.
In this two-species scheme S. aequifasciatus showed great variation. While the general color of S. aequifasciatus is brown with some blue and red markings on the forehead and near the anal fin, some individuals in all populations have brighter colors including greater coverage or strength of red and blue stripes, spots, or reticulations, and some populations differed from others in coloration. So one of the goals of this study was to see if consistent coloration differences could suggest that several distinct species comprised nominal S. aequifasciatus.
Testing these qualitative data (color pattern and body shape) statistically with a mathematical approach known as Principal Component Analysis (PCA) placed specimens from the same population in the same cluster, but didn't really meaningfully discriminate between S. aequifasciatus populations. Likewise, PCA testing of meristics and rhomboid measurements failed to distinguish populations: the within-population variation was greater than the between-population variation.
However, the main western (Tefé and west) and central/eastern groupings of S. aequifasciatus were largely separable from each other by the presence or absence of red spots and for anal fin red coloration. The darker-bodied fish from central and eastern populations always lacked red-pigmented spots on the anal fin and body and were distinct from the western fish. Two sub-groups appeared to be present in the central/eastern cluster too, though the clustering was not strong enough to support a distinct far-eastern lineage or species. Remember that S. discus and S. aequifasciatus, with overlapping, largely non-defining meristics, are separated from each other principally on the single morphological character of vertical black barring.
DNA Data
With respect to the molecular data, the DNA extracted from 23 individuals (including nominal S. discus and S. aequifasciatus from along its extensive distribution) was sequenced with respect to two genes/gene segments: mitochondrial cytochrome b and nuclear rhodopsin.
Cytochrome b is an important protein in the energy-generating respiratory pathway of mitochondria, the powerhouses of the cell. Mitochondria have their own DNA which codes for many, but not all, of the mitochondrial proteins. Here, 1134 nucleotide bases were sequenced, and the resulting sequences from all 23 discus sampled were aligned and compared with each other in pairwise fashion.
Rhodopsin is one of the vertebrate visual pigments (proteins) important for color vision and is coded for by a nuclear gene (i.e., found on the chromosomes of the cell's nucleus). Here, a 514-base-pair segment of the gene was sequenced from each of the same 23 sampled discus.
The strategy of DNA sequencing, in a nutshell, is to see how much sequence divergence—change in the nucleotide base sequence order—there is between individuals. No or little difference in sequence indicates close relatedness or even genetic identity (same species and/or interbreeding populations), whereas moderate to much difference indicates separation, genetic divergence, and ultimately speciation.
So, one would expect that morphologically distinct species would have non-identical DNA sequences and the degree of sequence change between them to be indicative of how long ago they became genetically isolated from each other, either due to physical separation leading to genetic divergence or due to their inability to interbreed (genetic or other incompatibility). Reproductive isolation and interrupted gene flow are signatures of speciation and can indicate distinct species even in the absence of recognizable (to us) morphological differences.
Inconclusive Results
The DNA sequence data were puzzling. Rhodopsin showed no variation between the 23 sampled individuals, which included S. discus and S. aequifasciatus, the latter from all along its extensive east-west range. This high level of sequence conservation (i.e., no differences at all) indicates that either rhodopsin is a very important protein and mutations (base changes) are not tolerated (are eliminated by natural selection), or the divergence of the morphological species has occurred relatively recently, too recently for mutational base changes to have accumulated in this gene.
The cytochrome b sequence data were also unexpected. Ready et al. found sequence differences that sorted all discus into two distinct genetic lineages. One of these cytochrome b lineages was found in samples from the western populations that would be formerly morphologically identified as S. aequifasciatus. The second and larger lineage included cytochrome b sequences from central and eastern S. aequifasciatus but also included S. discus from
The sequence data also suggested that a genetically distinct far-eastern lineage may also exist, however these data comprise only two samples that were collected from sites. It would seem that while looking dramatically different, S. aequifasciatus and S. discus are genetically indistinguishable at the mitochondrial cytochrome b gene, whereas the western S. aequifasciatus, which can be separated and recognized easily from central/eastern S. aequifasciatus on the basis of their red spotting, are significantly different in cytochrome b sequence.
A Different Third Species
The DNA data along with the reliability of the red-spotting character suggest strongly that the western populations of S. aequifasciatus are reproductively isolated and genetically divergent enough for them to be described as a distinct species, which Ready et al. choose to do in this paper. It turns out that these discus had been described as a distinct subspecies earlier by
Whereas other ichthyologists (e.g., Schultz 1960) found this description insufficient, apparently Kullander (1996) does not, and now names (Ready et al. 2006) and re-describes the western population of discus with red spots on the anal fin and in the body as Symphysodon tarzoo, elevating it from subspecific rank and distinguishable from the other two species of discus, S. aequifasciatus and S. discus, which have reticulations (a network of lines or stripes) and not spots. In so doing, they have designated a type specimen (neotype) which had already been deposited and recorded (as S. aequifasciatus) at INPA in
Symphysodon tarzoo and S. aequifasciatus overlap in distribution only slightly, as represented by a few individuals of S. tarzoo collected along with S. aequifasciatus from the Rio Madeira. Ready et al. (2006) also declare S. haraldi (Bleher's third species) and S. axelrodi as synonyms of S. aequifasciatus.
More to Come
Is your head hurting yet? I applaud you if you have stuck with me until now. There is much more interesting biology to report about these discus, namely how and why speciation may have occurred and why there apparently are so few species of discus, and these are also addressed in the Ready et al. (2006) paper. But I will defer this discussion to my next column (April). Meanwhile, the Kullander group concludes there are three species of discus: S. discus ("Heckel"), S. aequifasciatus ("brown and blue"), and S. tarzoo ("green, spotted"), whereas Bleher supports S. discus ("Heckel"), S. aequifasciatus (in his scheme, this is the "red-spotted green," now tarzoo), and S. haraldi ("brown and blue").
Pending publication of the aforementioned and eagerly awaited Bleher/Meyer's genetic marker (haplotype) data, the discus wars continue—may the best science win!Special thanks to my bibliophilic friend and co-columnist Lee Finley who supplied the article and to my book collector friend Tom Tilles who graciously sent me the copy of Tropicals in which the "Blue Tarzoo" were announced.


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A house is a complicated possession. It is a major financial investment but it's also the place where your life is lived. The neighborhood where it's located is hugely important too, as the neighbors may become your good friends, and the local school may be just what your children need. All of this can make moving from to a new home a very difficult proposition, even if the actual house you own has some shortcomings. All of this is why many people choose to remodel their home rather than move around in search of a "dream home" that may not even exist.
Financing a Remodel
Some homeowners choose to take out a home equity line of credit in order to finance a home makeover. If low interest loans are available, this can be a wise way to improve a home and add to its value, without taking on much larger monthly payments. A home that has a remodeled bathroom or kitchen, or a lovely master bedroom can be much more valuable in a resale, which is why many people decide the work of a remodel is worthwhile.
Work With an Expert
One of the keys to having a successful home renovation is in working with an experienced general contractor. Luckily, today there are many websites dedicated to providing job leads for contractors and listings of contractors in a local area. Homeowners can look at these sites to find the right kinds of contractors for their particular project.
When they've found the right candidate, they can arrange a free phone consultation to discuss the project and go over the budget. The homeowner should feel free to ask a lot of questions during a phone consultation, and to be very open about what they want from their home remodel. The contractor can review the initial ideas and give their thoughts on the materials needed, the number of workers required, and a rough estimate of the costs. After the consultation, an agreement can be made and the project can really get underway.
Yes, remodeling is time consuming, but with an expert contractor working with you, the project can be truly worthwhile.


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15 May 2017
Tribunals or strikes: What do we do about victimisations?
by Donny Gluckstein, EIS-FELA National Executive and EIS Council (personal capacity)
It is half a century since the grandly titled Royal Commission on Trade Unions and Employers' Associations met. Chaired by Lord Donovan Commission and sponsored by the then Labour government, it set out to stem class struggle through shifting the initiative from shop stewards to full-time officials and lawyers. This was designed to end rank and file influence in favour of legal processes, courts and tribunals. But the conflict between capital and labour is so fundamental that no state procedure can kill it off, and six years after publication (1968) gigantic strikes and occupations involving dockers, miners, and many more brought Ted Heath's Tory government crashing down. Yet the Commission's strategy survived and in the longer term has contributed to fewer strikes, consequently less understanding of what collective action can achieve, and falling living standards for the mass of the population. The latest Tory anti-union law takes Donovan's legalistic approach even further.
Despite the decline in numbers of strikes employers still fear open confrontation with the workforce. So a more indirect and insidious method of attack is often used – the bullying or victimisation of individuals such as prominent union activists. Picking off individuals can serve to intimidate and demoralise employees in general.
A significant example of this occurred in 2013 at the giant Grangemouth refinery where a powerfully organised section were targeted. The Battle of Grangemouth, a book by the former Unite convenor, Mark Lyon, describes how management set out to victimise himself and the branch secretary Stevie Deans 'with the clear intention of exacting revenge for the previous dispute of 2008. For me this is their "plot".'
The Donovan Commission proposals facilitated just this approach. Prior to 1968 resistance to victimisation led to some 276 strikes each year and it came up with an alternative route: 'statutory machinery to safeguard employees against unfair dismissal' – in other words the Employment Tribunal system. This was instituted by Heath's government in 1971 but the 'safeguard' is phoney. Of course there are occasions where sackings are overturned by Tribunals, and in this respect the arrangement is like a lottery. If there were never any winners the whole system would be discredited. But, like the lottery, winners are vanishingly small in number. Isolated favourable decisions in no way compensate for undermining the role of lay union reps (who are often the target of victimisation themselves).
For good reason the government no longer publishes figures for how many workers are successfully reinstated by Tribunals; but the statistics for 2010 – before the introduction of punitive fees brought a collapse in overall numbers even getting to court – are telling. The Institute of Employment Rights reported 'only 1 in 500 successful cases result in a reinstatement or re-engagement order (0.19%), or about one in five thousand of all the unfair dismissal claims lodged.' So of 49,600 claims in 2010 just six reinstatement orders were issued. Even these Tribunal decisions are routinely ignored. Typically only half of this tiny group actually get their job back.
This is where the similarity with the lottery ends. The lottery claims to raise money for 'good causes'. With unfair dismissal cases at Tribunals the only 'cause' is bosses' profits as union organisation is weakened at minimal cost. Furthermore, everyone knows the odds of winning are low; but the odds of winning your job back at Tribunal are a closely guarded secret. Searching the internet for 'unfair dismissal' will turn up a multitude of lawyer's firms offering their services, and a mountain of information detailing 'your rights'. Statistics for reinstatement were near impossible to find and now have vanished completely.
That is not to say that Tribunal decisions on other matters, such as unpaid wages and equal pay do not have successful outcomes, or that the threat of a tribunal or publicity can be useful in restraining employers. There are also many committed labour lawyers who do their best within the constraints. But these mitigating factors also serve as camouflage for the far more important operation of asserting employers' power of hire and fire. Union officials and lawyers are keen to point to financial compensation that may be won. Yet just 10% of unfair dismissal claims lead to a finding of unfair dismissal, and only half of these result in a payout. In 2016 the average was £13,851. This is nothing compared to successfully intimidating an entire workforce thus saving on things like the wage bill or health and safety.
The stages of the deception are worth following. What is, in effect, an attack on the union is instead treated as one person's concern and the province of full time officials who hold the purse strings, and the lawyers they hire. Immediately the focus is on lodging a claim, gathering evidence, and legal technicalities. Often, to protect 'the integrity of the legal process' the victim is sworn to secrecy, further reducing any chance of a collective response which might win. The individual is no longer at work and the official union machinery is realistically wedded to obtaining 'justice' at Tribunal (e.g money) rather than reinstatement.
Grangemouth was a classic example. In a blaze of national publicity the leading trade unionists there were sacked, and although Unite members voted to strike they were ultimately blackmailed into submission, after which collective agreements for all were comprehensively trashed. In terms of recourse to the channels devised by Donovan Mark Lyon reports: 'I am constrained from revealing the outcome of the process for legal reasons.' The workforce loses as a whole, but the individual involved is often the most cruelly deceived person. The lottery does not disguise that its decision is the result of a random selection. The sacked worker is encouraged to believe 'the merit of their case' is decisive. Not only have they lost their job, but the false mirage of success is dangled before them and then, 4,999 times out of 5,000, abruptly whisked away.
However, there is an alternative to this travesty of justice. In October 2015 110 days of strike action forced the National Gallery to reinstate Candy Udwin. A month later swift unofficial action did the same for Sandy Nichol at the School of Oriental and African Studies. A glance at the industrial reports of Socialist Worker during 2017 shows numerous examples of trade unionists balloting for or taking action against victimisations. The 24 January edition, for example reported the reinstatement in Birmingham of Simon O'Hara after teachers struck for 11 days, the dropping of disciplinary action against Penny Gower after an 82% strike ballot at Edinburgh College, and a call by Peterborough postal workers for a ballot over two members facing disciplinaries.
In some workplaces union organisation may not be strong enough to deliver an effective defence, and here the very second rate Tribunal route may be the only alternative. However, the spectre that the Donovan Commission wished to banish lives on. Collective action to defend individuals targeted by management may not always achieve a 100% success rate, but the odds for working class solidarity are certainly better than one in 5,000.


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11 Spring Essentials Under $22
When it comes to your new-season wardrobe refresh, we know it helps if you have a checklist. Or else you'll be all over the shop – literally and otherwise – missing lots of bargains as well as key styles.
So, we've come to the rescue by listing the 11 absolute must-haves to get your Spring 16 wardrobe up and running. And, with prices starting at a totally ridic $4, you don't have to worry about breaking the bank to satisfy your style. Get on it girls – these buys won't hang around…
The throw-on-and-go dress $9
If you haven't already heard: the relaxed, laundered shirt is BIG news for Spring 16. Set against our Humble & Laundered womenswear trend, the classic shirt is revisited in soft blues, French-striped fabrics and loose fits. Worn best with ripped jeans and a carefree 'tude.
Ballerina lace-ups continue to be big news for spring. Since strutting all over the holiday season in classic court styles, the high heel is swapped for pointed, flat styles. We ADORE these faux-snakeskin babies, which add a luxe touch to even the simplest outfits.
The color-pop top $6
The shirt $10
Statement shades $4.50
As we head further into the season, the statement jacket will be your key outerwear piece. From soft-quilted to heavily embroidered, this jacket works with everything from a classic white tee and jeans, to your chicest LBD.
The nineties crop $4
The go-with-everything handbag $14
Overalls have been having a moment since the comeback of the jumpsuit. For spring, ours come in slim fit denim, which keeps this essential on-trend and versatile. For ultimate style nods, pair with this season's striped shirt.
Breton stripes $11, the denim skirt $15
If you haven't seen our lace-up front knit on pretty much everyone, we don't know where you've been hiding. Lucky for you, one of AW15's most-loved pieces has been reworked for spring, in a seasonal Breton stripe. What to wear it with? The button-up denim mini is the only way to go. How cute is this outfit?!
Denim overalls $22
Et voilà! Our edit of the items you need on your Spring 16 checklist. :) Best of all, this capsule collection can be mixed and matched: why not try the nineties crop with the slim-fit overalls? And, if you're still thinking 11 pieces are going to set you back a lot, add it up and see for yourself – we dare you to NOT be amazed!


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This self catering holiday cottage within Cumbria is the ideal place to explore the Lake District, Cumbria and the Yorkshire Dales.
With wonderful views of Hutton Roof Crag. Croft Cottage, a detached stone-built cottage which sleeps four, is tastefully furnished and newly decorated to a high standard.
Hutton Roof, which is 3 miles from the market town of Kirby Lonsdale nestling in the Lune Valley, in good walking country and near to the RSBP sanctuary at Leighton Moss, caters for all types of holidays.
For more information on where to go, have a look at our 'what to do' page.
Guests to Croft Cottage can also enjoy SKY HD Television with Boxed Sets as well as superfast broadband and the use of a telephone to make calls from the cottage. Heating is also included in the weekly rental.
Visitor Comment
"As for the house - it was the best holiday cottage we have ever rented. And that is just not flattery.
The place was superbly clean, everything that we could possibly need was there and once again all utensils, appliances were clean and we felt at home within an hour of packing and setting to prepare dinner.
There was always sufficient hot water, the beds were really comfortable and it was lovely and quiet.
I am thinking of having a girls long-weekend up in the Lakes early next year (minus husband and kids!).
A lovely place to stay.
Mrs G."


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The Arizona Legislature yesterday confirmed Governor Jan Brewer's appointment of Valley PR honcho/charter school advocate Jay Heiler to the Arizona Board of Regents to replace outgoing ABOR Chairman Fred DuVal -- and Arizona Democrats aren't happy about it.
"Arizona's universities serve as an economic engine for our state," Arizona Democratic Party Executive Director Luis Heredia says. "Rather than select someone qualified to lead our universities on the Arizona Board of Regents, Governor Brewer and the Tea Party Republicans have done the opposite by selecting lobbyist Jay Heiler."
Dems are in a huff over Heiler's "questionable past" -- which, they say, includes referring to homosexuals as "queers," and an "aberration."
In their criticism of Heiler's appointment, Dems reference a 1993 New Times article about Heiler's rise from the newsroom at Arizona State University's State Press newspaper to becoming a powerful Arizona politico.
From our article:
The daily campus newspaper, the State Press, was doing little to discourage ASU's image. It was controlled by a few students who had dubbed themselves The Force. For the most part, no one paid much attention--either to the students or the newspaper; the editors tended to spout the liberal musings that had been common to college campuses since the 60s.
At first, few took note of the quiet coup staged at the State Press by Jay Heiler, Matthew Scully and, later, Len Munsil, three postpubescent Reaganites who took it upon themselves to put ASU on the right course--the far right course. By 1985, ASU had established itself nationally as a hothouse for a virulent strain of conservatism that would have made Joe McCarthy smile.
With blitzkrieg swiftness, Heiler, Munsil and Scully succeeded in making ASU famous for something other than football, keggers and righteous tans.
As editor of the State Press, Munsil refused to print meeting notices for the ASU gay and lesbian union. As a student senator, former editor Heiler supported a move that cut funding to student groups whose agendas were seen as unsavory. And columnist Scully helped to launch a national hate movement against a professor whose views he found objectionable.
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"We need leaders who will promote a spirit of inclusion, rather than tarnish Arizona's image with divisive rhetoric that alienates investors and kills jobs," Heredia continues. "Not only is Mr. Heiler a big-money lobbyist who has fought tribal sovereignty, Mr. Heiler has failed to fully explain remarks in his past that are unbecoming of a high-ranking public official. I hope that Mr. Heiler will apologize to the GLBT community for the hurtful things he's said in the past."
In addition to his work as a lobbyist, Heiler served as chief of staff to indicted former Republican Governor Fife Symington, and recently served as communications director for Congressman Ben Quayle's Congressional campaign.
In their criticism, Democrats cite Heiler's ties to Symington and an editorial he recently wrote declaring "war against our tribal communities."
See Heiler's editorial here.


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Salah takes home the award for the first time ever, as he managed to defeat competition from fellow finalists Sadio Mane and Pierre-Emerick Aubameyang at the awards ceremony in Accra, Ghana.
The 25-year-old turned in a stunning campaign for Liverpool in 2017 as he scored 23 goals in 29 games after joining the English Premier League side from AS Roma.
Aubameyang, meanwhile, scored an incredible 31 goals in 32 appearances in all competitions last term, but only managed to get his hands on the DFB-Pokal with Borussia Dortmund.
The CAF Player of the Year award was initially pared down to a shortlist of 24. From there, Salah, Aubameyang and Mane were named the three finalists in December.
The winner of the award was selected by the current coaches and captain from every men's national team in Africa.
Salah's Liverpool team-mate Sane finished second in the voting, with Dortmund star Aubameyang coming in third.
Complete list of winners at the 2017 Confederation of African Football (CAF) awards ceremony in Accra Thursday:
Player of the Year
1. Mohamed Salah (Egypt, Liverpool/ENG), 2. Sadio Mane (Senegal, Liverpool/ENG), 3. Pierre-Emerick Aubameyang (Gabon, Borussia Dortmund/GER)
Women's Player of the Year
Asisat Oshoala (Nigeria, Dalian Quanjian/CHN)
Youth Player of the Year
Patson Daka (Zambia, Liefering/AUT)
Coach of the Year
Hector Cuper (Egypt)
Club of the Year
Wydad Casablanca (Morocco)
National Team of the Year
Women's National Team of the Year
South Africa


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Lovely pair of crocheted fingerless gloves with button straps. I used Acrylic yarn in aran fleck (beige) and cafe latte (brown), embellished them with a lovely button strap, and sized them to fit an average women's hands with lots of stretch. Machine wash and dry preferably on the gentle cycle.
Width: 4 3/4" at widest point
Length: 9 1/2"
We accept major credit cards, PayPal, and Etsy gift cards. Sorry, We do not accept money orders or personal checks. I do offer combined shipping discounts on multiple purchases.
Bubble wrap and very small packages ship First Class; larger packages Parcel Post. Insurance is included on all glass items and clearly marked "fragile glass handle with care".
I ship the following day after payment is received, unless it is the weekend or holiday; then it ships the next business day.
If you are unsatisfied with your purchase, I will offer a full refund within 7 days; excluding return shipping. There are no refunds on patterns. The item must be returned in the same condition. I'm not responsible for damaged or lost items caused by USPS.


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There are several ways to make Oracle backups; what I will be concentrating on here is the "Data Pump Export" method. You may already be familiar with the command-line "expdp" command which allows you to create a dump (.dmp) file containing your database objects (schemas, tables, procedures, etc.).
To perform a regular backup, one could create a simple batch file to run "expdp" and schedule it using the Windows Task Scheduler or a Unix Cron job. While this certainly works, it means that you have one more "moving part" to think about (the OS scheduler), and you may have to hardcode database passwords in the batch file unless you use OS authentication.
However, the "expdp" command-line utility is actually just a "front-end" to a PL/SQL package called DBMS_DATAPUMP, as can be seen in this diagram:
This means that we can call the DBMS_DATAPUMP package directly from our own PL/SQL code to create dump files, and use DBMS_JOB to schedule this backup at regular intervals. We avoid the dependence on batch files, and we don't have to expose any passwords.
The API for DBMS_DATAPUMP is flexible and, as mentioned, supports everything that can be done from the command line (both exports and imports), but it can sometimes be a bit tricky to get the (filtering) syntax correct.
I've written a wrapper package called DATAPUMP_UTIL_PKG, which you can download as part of the Alexandria PL/SQL Utility Library. This package makes it really easy to perform the most common use case: Exporting a single schema to a file on disk. This can be accomplished with the following code:
-- export current schema to file, use default file name, and make the export compatible with XE 10g
-- include a custom message
datapump_util_pkg.export_schema_to_file ('DEVTEST_TEMP_DIR', p_version => '10.2', p_log_message => 'it is possible to include custom messages in the log');