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Category Archives: Style
Style Trends at Pitti 95
Looking around Pitti, I wanted to photograph the people that were more visually interesting to me. Sometimes, those were characters who bordered on the absurd. But in general, my goal was to photograph those who I felt would be more interesting to users of Styleforum, people who tended to have a more conservative or classic aesthetic.Continue reading
Black Tie Time
Back in the day, Esquire magazine stalwartly carried the torch of classic black tie. One of my favorite writers of that era, John Berendt, grew up in Syracuse, New York, not far from one of the first appearances of the tuxedo. Almost immediately after graduating from Harvard, he became an associate editor of Esquire from 1961 to 1969 and continued to contribute from 1982 to 1994, when his book Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil was published. Many of his columns begrudgingly acknowledge trends while scornfully piss on what he calls "atrocities." A particularly funny one is when he took umbrage with some of the spirited choices his contemporaries passed off as acceptable black tie. After observing that the first two public exhibitions of Henry Poole's dinner jacket in America caused quite a stir, he wrote:
"I mention these two episodes…to make the point that, historically, there has never been much tolerance for individual touches when it comes to formal attire. And properly so–if not for the sake of tradition, than because for some reason the classic model is almost always debased rather than improved by innovation….But in a perverse sort of way we can be grateful to them because of what they reveal about the wearer's level of taste."Classics: The Tuxedo, from Esquire, January 1983
For about 100 years, the classic black tie model has remained more or less the same, and is fairly straightforward: the suit itself can be black or midnight blue wool. As for the jacket, the most formal is single breasted peak lapel, and happens to be the most flattering one. Your shirt, which is always white, should be the quintessential marcella bib with two or three studs. A wing collar would have been the first choice a century ago, but nowadays a soft turndown collar has become the norm. Pleated shirts are fine, but I find they go better with peak lapels in a double breasted jacket or shawl collars in either configuration. A notch collar is acceptable, but has the tendency to look more waiter than waited on. Your bow tie, which should never be pre-tied and always in front of your shirt collar, can be in either black silk satin or grosgrain. Ideally the same material should be repeated in the lapel facings, buttons, and a single stripe down the trouser's outside seam. Your waist should be covered by a double breasted jacket, a formal black waistcoat, or a cummerbund that matches your tie. Shoes are black oxfords or opera pumps in patent leather, although either in properly shined calf leather is a fine alternative. Hosiery is black silk.
Once you have a tuxedo in any of the above, you can start to go crazy – a little – for less ceremonious affairs. An easy way to do this is by simply swapping the top. An off-white jacket is a fine choice for daytime or if you happen to find yourself on a boat. On informal occasions, such as a party in someone's home, a velvet smoking jacket in deep jewel tones is a louche option, or plaid if you're feeling particularly festive. In these cases, lapels should never be notched, and facings can be in black silk or in the same color and material as the jacket, depending on how shiny you wish to be. If you feel especially casual, you can swap your courtly footwear for slippers in silk or velvet in black.
There are other options, of course, but listed above are already a dozen or so that will take you everywhere from the opera to the stag party. With the proviso that you have them all already and are exceptionally popular with a calendar bursting with fancy engagements, just don't. Unless you're Andy57.
Andy Poupart is a self-professed romantic that loves black tie more than anyone I know. His job, like most of us, doesn't pit him against secret agents or nefarious megalomaniacs, but if it did, he'd be ready for the part. His black tie closet includes:
- Straight-ahead, classic, by-the-book, black, peak lapel, grosgrain facings, single-breasted dinner jacket, with matching trousers, cummerbund, and U-front waistcoat
- Midnight blue, shawl lapel, midnight blue satin silk facings, single breasted jacket, with matching trousers, cummerbund, and U-front waistcoat
- Ivory, self-faced, double-breasted shawl lapel jacket
- Deep bottle green velvet, black grosgrain facings and cuffs, shawl lapel, single breasted jacket
- Thai silk, red, self-faced, peak lapel, single breasted jacket
To accompany these, he has socks in black and midnight blue silk, two shirts each in white and ivory, all with soft turndown collars and marcella fronts, several sets of studs and links, a butterfly and diamond point bowtie in black grosgrain, another in black mogodor, a fourth in midnight blue satin silk, and black patent leather oxfords. If that sounds like overkill, be assured Andy has worn every piece in his armory many times over, and has his eyes set on a few more. "I keep thinking about a burgundy double-breasted jacket in a fantastic wool/silk velvet," he grins.
Although all of his outfits are excellent, Andy reckons his favorite is the ivory dinner jacket. "I designed it after Humphrey Bogart's in Casablanca. When I wear it, I'm a 1940s gun-runner, one step ahead of the bad guys, with places to go and things to do that you can't be any part of, but we'll always have Paris. Oh, and a martini in one hand."
"I know that all sounds silly, but I don't care," he states. "It's how I can express the side my personality that I want to portray. I think that when we get dressed, in any sort of clothes, we are telling a story about ourselves, how we wish to appear to the world. When I wear black tie, I feel I'm presenting the best me."
I have to catch up to Andy – I've got a few black tie rigs myself, but alas, no velvet yet.
You can wait until the invitation requests it, or you can do like Andy and where it wherever you want. To be honest, even a black trash bag is better than not trying at all, but as long as you're trying, you might as well do it right. To that end, try your best to follow John Berendt's sage words:
"My advice is to stick with the classic unless you happen to have a tailor with the prescience of a Henry Poole. And the odds are you do not."
For what is probably the biggest, most awesomest collection of classic black tie, check out Voxsartoria's blog. But you knew tha
Turtlenecks in Menswear
As soon as sweater season rolls around, you can be sure to see menswear guys post pictures of Steve McQueen in Bullitt and caption it with "mood." It's a no-brainer, the turtleneck look is absolutely killer and has gone on to influence countless gents around the world. Not only is it stylish, but it's pretty practical and is perhaps one of the easiest things a guy can wear due to its minimalistic, yet sharp look. The best part is that no shirt or tie is necessary (unless you really want to wear them, despite them not being seen).
Now, most people know the progression of the turtleneck thanks for the copied content across different blogs. Some of the more romantic bloggers say that knights wore one of the first variations, an undershirt to protect themselves against their chainmail and armor. It then was adopted as a sweater, no doubt to keep the wearer warm and to prevent the need for a scarf, which featured an extended neck. Then, they briefly touch on Noel Coward before ultimately landing at the 1960s and later, calling it the uniform of the anti-establishment, citing beatniks, the Beatles, Steve McQueen, and Steve Jobs. This alone should be enough to point you in the direction of this loved sweater. If not, that's why I'm here.
More personalities than people imagine wore the turtleneck back in the Golden Era. You could find it across everyone from film actors to the naval officers to even university students. In general, the chunkier turtleneck (whether plain weave or in the cable knit) was the main one worn, no doubt due to it's more utilitarian nature. The finer weaves were reserved for loungewear at home rather than to be worn out. Early pictures and advertisements will have the turtleneck done in bold block stripes or with embroidered years or motifs, something that seems to have been lost today. Still, many guys back then wore them on their own or with full tailoring.
Inspiration can be found across all eras. While everyone likes to bring up Clark Gable and Noel Coward for Golden Era moods, one of my favorite has to be a 1910s illustration of a student wearing a cream roll neck with a stingy billed cap, grey flannels, and opera pumps. Pretty rakish, but I'm sure that it provides plenty of inspiration for your own outfits. I also have found photographs of the Prince of Wales wearing one with jodhpurs and the beret combo from an old archive of 1930's European family pictures.
The 1960s-1970s definitely reflected the shift away from mainly utilitarian use and more as a true replacement for the shirt and tie combo. The chunky cable knit ones were still in play, but it's the thinner, finely woven ones that took the spotlight. These newer turtlenecks were more form-fitting, echoing the trends in the mod and disco phases. Now they were available in much more than dark navy, black, or cream: you could now see them in saturated colors and earth tones. Though they were a classic item, they were definitely a trend during this era.
In some cases, the growth of their popularity was indeed a rejection of corporate culture (think artists and musicians) as other people have noted. In others, it's more of a futuristic fashion trend that negates the need to think too much about shirts and ties. For example, a solid turtleneck will contrast or help mute a tailored outfit making for a sharp, minimalistic look. Even if you were against neckwear from the beginning, you could achieve a more formal vibe with a turtleneck than if you simply wore an OCBD and a crew neck sweater; this is all thanks to the high, closed neck that subtly harkens back to the tunics worn by royalty back in the day. Michael Caine even doubled down on this "high neck closure" by wearing it with a double-breasted suit.
Looking back now, we have a plethora of different examples to follow if you want to rock the turtleneck. Obviously the most common is that minimal 1960's look with a nice, slim finely woven variation. It's not a bad look, as it looks fantastic with most tailoring and serves as the starting out point for many. Navy blue is probably the best choice to get since it will work across a variety of outfits, but you could always experiment with something in light browns or burgundies/yellows to evoke the earthy palette of the 1970s. It especially helps when you feel like the patterns in your suit or sportcoat are too loud and need a bit of grounding. If you want to go for that look, I suggest looking at merino wool, since it's supposed to be ultra fine in its texture. Luckily, you can find these at most stores like Uniqlo and J. Crew at a great value. There's nothing wrong with experimenting with the different colors they offer (pairing it with simple grey trousers is great), but keep in mind that they won't be as versatile as the navy or black ones.
Despite the fact that I live in California and merino are the only pieces I can wear without vigorously sweating, I definitely have a soft spot for looks that incorporate chunky turtlenecks. These make more sense if you're wearing selvedge denim, heavy peacoats, double-riders, and scratchy tweed. It feels a bit more nautical and workwear-focused, that's for sure, but I've always been a fan of a more rugged take on tailoring. Cream is probably the way to go, but soft greys and intricate weaves or even fair isle patterns can also work. North Sea Clothing is a place to consider if you want a solid wool one that echoes the traditional maritime ones, complete with a wide ribbing on the neck, cuffs, and hem. Lambswool variations can be found at Drake's (whose latest lookbook has plenty of turtleneck ideas) while the cashmere ones can be found anywhere from Uniqlo, Todd Snyder (at $300), and at Berluti ($1000+). I personally wish they made heavy guage in cotton for warmer climates, but a guy can dream!
J. Crew • Berluti • North Sea Clothing
Todd Snyder • Uniqlo • Uniqlo
Overall, I really recommend that you guys try the turtleneck out if you haven't already. The utilitarian benefits are clearly there, but I like the added bonus of being able to look sharp without having to wear a tie or even a shirt. While I like that this "throwback" piece of clothing has stuck around, I just hope that the horrid v-neck sweater/turtleneck hybrid doesn't make a return appearance. That simply belongs in the mid-1960s and should stay there forever.
Examples of My Favorite Menswear Deals When Thrifting
Even though I find myself drawn further and further into the world of contemporary classic menswear, I don't think I'll ever leave vintage behind. It's less about cosplay or wanting to live vicariously in a different age, but it's more about getting certain details that I wouldn't be able to find or afford otherwise.
If you're familiar with my blog or social media, you'll know that I attempt to bring vintage pieces into a modern context, making them wearable-yet-eccentric pieces. I decided to write about a couple of my most interesting pieces in today's article and a bit about where I got them.
If you're new to thrifting and vintage shopping, check out this Guide to Thrift Shopping
Outerwear is probably the easiest one to incorporate since it usually functions as a finishing layer for an outfit. If you go on eBay or get lucky at your local goodwill/vintage store, chances are you'll find something interesting. One of my most favorite pieces of outerwear is a 1940's, single-breasted overcoat, made from a brown wool with an extremely faint green windowpane. Made by Curlee Clothiers (a sought after yesteryear brand by collectors), it is half-lined and has a long length, two details seldom seen on modern overcoats. It's served me during this past California winter and definitely did its job when I visited NYC last December. It really was a lucky purchase at one of the LA vintage stores I frequent; they had just put it out when I walked in!
Another random find was my 1950's brown leather double rider at the Dapper Day Expo, a community event that celebrates classic style at venues like Disneyland and LACMA. Unlike other 50's jackets, the one I found was cropped short, lacked any epaulets or "punk" elements, and was generally similar to the ones found in the 1930's. Despite it looking rather 1930's to my eyes, the dealer said that due to the nitty gritty details (buttons/zipper/labels) itthe jacket was actually made in the 1950s, making it was way more affordable than a 1930's buco. In the fall, it has been my go-to casual jacket, perfect to wear with turtlenecks, denim, and flannels.
Wearable vintage tailoring (like jackets and trousers) is a bit harder to find, especially if you're used to getting things custom, but there are still times when you come across something cool. From Paper Moon, I was able to obtain a pair of 1950's chocolate brown nubby rayon trousers. Thanks to their full cut and interesting fabric, they make a great summer trouser that is just a bit different than a regular linen or cotton pair. For trousers, I couldn't pass up a lightweight flannel cinch back, made for college students in the 1950's when cinch-back chinos were a short fad. You can thank eBay for that one!
One stand out piece that I almost always gets a fun comment is my 1930's belt back jacket. It's made in USA, out of a soft, broken-in white linen that has soft construction, making it widely different than a majority of the tailoring in the same era. Despite the bi-swing back and the fact that it's ventless, it comes across as very contemporary on account of its subtle waist suppression, natural shoulder, and relatively normal sized lapel. It's become one of my favorite pieces to wear in the summer. It was actually a lucky bid on eBay as similar jackets go for high amounts while it only cost me $200 years ago, purchased with my first paid internship income. I'll always wonder if it simply passed under other collectors' radars.
Apart from that linen jacket, I also have a few 1940's Palm Beach garments: a jacket purchased from Reese's Vintage Pieces (a guy with the biggest non-warehouse stock, selling out of his Pomona home) and a full suit sold by a theater wardrobe on eBay. This material is inherently special due to the fact that the patented PB fabric (a mix of wool, cotton, and mohair) is no longer in production after the brand was sold and the factory closed; for future reference, anything Palm Beach post-1950s isn't the original fabric. It's not really an open weave, but it drapes well and wears pretty cool, offering up a heartier alternative to normal cotton jackets. Like my linen jacket, my PB jackets softly tailored (perhaps even more so) and fit really well with a more contemporary wardrobe. The small detailing like swelled edges, lapel width/shape, and button stance offer the vintage charm that you can't really find anywhere other than a willing custom tailor. My odd jacket gets plenty of wear, while the full suit (and it's full cut) only get worn during more appropriate events.
In addition to these summer jackets, I think the obvious "unique" pieces are my collection of tweed sack jackets obtained from eBay, Etsy, and NYC's own Sean Crowley. Not many affordable makers make interesting checks and plaids in soft shoulders and 3-roll-2 stance, so vintage is always my go-to for fun cold weather jackets. Two are from Brooks: a 1960's grey/blue plaid and a 1970's light brown/red plaid. The grey might get more wear than the brown due to the silhouette differences, but my favorite has to be my green check one. There's no way I'd be able to find something similar without going bespoke. I just can't wait for it to be cold again!
Of course, I would be remiss if I didn't talk about the smaller stuff like my sweaters and ties. I have two 1930's sweaters (that have seen better days) that I think are completely different than the knitwear you find today. Not only do they have a shorter length, which is necessary for high waisted trousers, but there is something about the specific colors and design that mark it something that only vintage could create. There are also a few fun Cuban collar/sport shirts that have gotten plenty of wear during this past hot summer season.
As for my ties, I generally cycle between 1960's reps and 1930's brocades, but my favorite one has to be this fantastic blue abstract print/foulard. It was actually apart of a lot of ties I purchased from a local vintage guy; I didn't even expect to love it as much as I did! Like most ties of the era, it has a short length (again, great for high rise trousers) and a more shapely blade, ending in an untipped edge resulting in a lightweight, unique tie that is unlike any other out there. I often have to stop myself from wearing it too often, not just to prevent repeat outfits, but to ensure that it lasts as long as possible. One of the reasons I love it is how similar it looks to the tie's you'd expect from Drake's.
In reality–like many things in life–my favorite vintage pieces are usually the most recent ones that I've acquired. It's always nice to have something that's a little bit different than the staples that most people tend to recommend, coming with a unique buying experience that feels rewarding after careful hunting. Whether you get a vintage leather jacket, overcoat, or even just a tie, I'm sure you'll enjoy it. Do you have any fun vintage pieces yourselves? Let us know by commenting below!
Have you scored any good deal recently? Let us know on the Official Thrift / Discount Store bragging Thread!
An ode and a guide to tapered jeans
The first pair of "raw" denim jeans I saw that were not my father's Levi's Orange tabs ($29.95 at Zellers back in 1980) were Helmut Lang's "Narrow" and "Straight" cuts, which I stumbled across the Beverly Hills Barneys in 1998. The hems of both seemed improbably tight and unfashionable to me at that time, when 16-18" hems were the norm, and the $300+ price was prohibitive to a graduate student without a trust fund.
A few years later, the North American premium denim movement, which started in LA, where the bulk of denim manufacturing is located, began in earnest. My personal favorites were Scott Morrison's first brand, Paper Denim & Cloth, which was revolutionary for its time; and Levi's Premium, among the first of Levi's many attempts to gain a fresh foothold in the new fashion landscape. In the early 2000s Scandinavian brands, led by Nudie, gained a following in North America, helped by representation from the super agency WANT. During my honeymoon in Spain, finding Nudies in Madrid was a major goal, and I dragged my new wife on a several-hour walk just to find the small boutiques I was interested in – I know that more of you sympathize with this than would care to. ACNE (also represented by WANT) were the next to gain popularity in the US. My Norwegian friends told me that in Scandinavia, Nudie were for the douche-bro crowd, and ACNE was the jean of choice for the less objectionable, but my loyalty to Nudie – at this point ingrained – didn't waver.
These were all gateway drugs to the Japanese denim that had been popular in Japan a decade earlier. In usual form the States were a decade behind, but our interests were stoked by retailers like Self Edge and Blue in Green, who were as much a product of the times as they were the flag bearers. Like everyone else swept up in the trend, I agonized over shrinking, stretching, and the much-sought-after wear marks, which Babelfish awesomely translated from the Japanese as "vertical falling." Those were heady days for the raw denim crowd. Ultimately, I came to the realization – as did all of my denim-nerd peers – that forcing yourself to wait six months before washing a pair of jeans is madness. I always thought that the sizing-down-so-that-the-jeans-stretch-out stance was a terrible idea, so I didn't have to learn that lesson at the cost of the months – even years – of testicular pain, that so many others paid.
Today, my denim collection resembles an archaeological dig site that spans the past 15 years and has its beginning with the premium denim trend of the very early 00s. And while I am sure that my preferences will continue to evolve, I'm at the point at which comfort, or at the very least, not-extreme-discomfort, will always be a consideration. This means that the recommendations below have some breathing room through the seat front and thighs, and hit comfortably at the hipbone. Since tapered is still the standard, both are slimmer from the knee down. Generally, I like the feeling of heft in my jeans – no paper-light stretchy jeggings for me – but super heavy jeans are never all that comfortable, so jeans between 13.5 and 17 ounces, light enough to be nimble, heavy enough to have some real power, hit that sweet spot.
If you've got big thighs, check out this article on Jeans for Men with Big Thighs
"Slim tapered" jeans from Big John's "Rare" line have the minimalist trappings of designer jeans – a plain, midnight blue, deerskin indigo back patch, a placketless fly, and no gratuitous branding; and they are cut not unlike the Helmut Lang jeans that I used to think were too narrow at the hem, with a mid-rise and a tapered leg. But they are made from inky "Ransei" denim (meaning "king of denims"), which is the highest quality denim made by Japan's "first" Americana-inspired denim brand and is designed to fade in an extremely attractive manner. I hesitate to describe them as versatile, since that's only a few steps away from suggesting that they will go from "the boardroom to the bar," but I will say that all of the very different people to whom I've recommended them have liked them.
The other pair I frequently wear are even more of an amalgam of the trends of the last fifteen years than the Big Johns: a collaborative project (collaborations went from novel to ubiquitous between 2003 and 2006) from American retailer Blue Owl and Japanese manufacturer Momotaro; the very precisely-named (and discontinued) BOM005 (the closest analog is now the BOM008). The "modern," mid-rise, tapered cut is borrowed from its sister brand, Japan Blue, and the heavy denim appeals to both denimheads and fashion customers alike, with weft threads (the colored threads in a jean) that are nearly black when first worn, and fade to a dark indigo with wear. They also have a black leather patch – plain or tonal patches seem to be popular with the minimalist set these days – and instead of the typical contrast stitching, the thread is tonal save for the single line of pink running along the inseam.
These two pairs take me through most days. Not a decade ago, I would have recommended a much lower rise, tighter jean, possibly in the heavier denim. Those cuts and weights still exist, and there is always a race towards the heaviest possible denim, but as a retailer once said about super heavy (18-ounce and greater) denim, "that's for kids." I do have a pair of 23-ounce jeans that I wear when I get nostalgic for the age of sick fades, though. Jeans, after all, are about the memories.
How to choose a Fedora that suits you
Fedoras will always get a bad rap, despite being a fully functional and stylish accessory. It's probably due to the infamous status of "vintage hat", gracing the heads of Golden Era illustrations, period films, and your latest Gatsby party (it should be noted that the story takes place in the early 1920s, and the fedora hat reached the peak in popularity in the mid-to-late 20s). The stigma is hard to shake, and I'll even admit that a fedora hat is one of the few things I can't really bring myself to wear often, despite being a vintage enthusiast. But that's changed in recent history.
In my free time, I've hung out and shot with Cody Wellema, a hatmaker the California suburb of Pasadena. He is completely self-taught and has gone from fulfilling orders in his apartment to opening up a storefront in a building that has existed since the 1920s. Our friendship led him to develop more of an appreciation for classic menswear, while he has shown me a different side to fedoras. When looking at the old pictures of Jimmy Stewart or even candid pictures of regular Golden Era people, he noted that these people wore their clothes (and hats) naturally. They weren't trying to put on a certain look, as some guys do today. Wearing a fedora at the time was the same as wearing a bucket hat or a beanie today; you sport it with a suit on a hot day or with a chambray shirt when working. Back in the day, there wasn't a concern about being dapper.
A couple of guys follow this same mantra. The guys at Bryceland's are one great example. As I've noted before, they have a vintage-meets-modern sartorial/workwear style where the fedora comes in perfectly. Both their personal hats and RTW stock are made by Wellema, which you can see them wear across their social media. They really wear them with everything, from tailoring to rayon shirts to 1950's pin-up print tees. It might be a bit too bold for some, but it's definitely miles ahead of any gangster cosplay. Seeing them do it well, in addition to my many conversations and pictures with Cody, really inspired me to get some made for myself. I currently own two Wellemas, a dressy grey and my own take on the brown fedora; they have seen more wear in recent history.
Yet Bryceland's isn't the only ones who wear it. You can see a bunch of people do it during the F/W Pitti. Drake's featured a floppy brimmed one a few seasons ago. Like pleats, established gentlemen continue to wear it while the like-minded younger generation is seeing the appeal. At no point does it look like a costume or something affected. With the tucked tie before it, it simply takes confidence in your look. But even before that, it takes careful consideration to find the one that suits you.
Like with shoulder styles, lapel width, and jacket length, you need to pay attention to your proportions.
Fedoras vary widely in terms of crown height/shape and brim width, with some combined details bringing specific eras to mind. You don't always have to play to your facial structure, but at least be conscious of the look you're projecting. Once the shape of your hat has been determined, you should also decide on the ribbon width: wider ribbons with a bow are more formal whereas thin ones are more "western" and casual. The same can be said for brim treatment; a snap front and upturned back are more traditional and having it up all around is more dressed down.
Color is personal preference, but you really can't go wrong with a grey or brown, with the latter as my personal favorite despite the ever-present imagined Indiana Jones archetype. Contrasting your hat with your outfit is definitely needed, as to not appear matchy-matchy. A grey fedora works well with a brown suit or navy suit, while brown works especially well with grey or green. For me, I think that grey becomes a bit too formal; brown tends to work better with denim as well as a flannel suit. I've also seen the tan/silverbelly one grow increasingly popular since it subverts a lot of people's expectations over the fedora. You'll see that in the album I'll include below.
Lastly, it just stands to say that fedoras are more of a fall/winter item. Due to the "structure", it creates for your head, it really works best with a fuller cut suit. I don't mean that you have to wear a 1940's draped suit, but keep in mind that a close hugging jacket and skinny pants won't cut it. The idea is to be relaxed in your clothing. Adding coats, sweaters, and scarves also help add to this proportion building, as to not make your head/hat appear too wide.
Here are a couple of places that I think have some great fedoras other than getting a vintage one from eBay or vintage store.
Cody Wellema makes each hat by hand, making him one of the few bespoke hatmakers in the US. He doesn't have a house style, which means that you can ask him to do anything you want, whether it's something period authentic or original. He is a wealth of knowledge and a perfect gentleman, who is dedicated to making the hat you want thanks to his enormous collection of hat blocks and vintage ribbons. It is a bespoke service, so it works best if you go in person to get measured (with late 1800s equipment) and consult on the details. He's done things as crazy as burn distressing to indigo dyed felt! The lead time is a 6-8 weeks since they are done by hand, but it's completely worth it to have a hat that's entirely custom and made with the highest quality.
The Armoury fedora is similar to the Stoffa one, in that the crown is unblocked, allowing it to be styled to its owner's preference. The brim is 3", which is a bit too much for my taste (I prefer a sub 2.5" at most), but that just means it looks especially rakish and is sure to protect you from the elements. The ribbon is thin, which makes it easy to wear casually.
I would be remiss if I didn't mention Borsalino and Stetson, who are perhaps the biggest brand name hatmakers in the world. I will admit that I have no real experience with these apart from true vintage models (which even then were some of the highest quality on the market), but I'm sure that there are many out there who are pleased with their modern hats. The Borsalino Traveller and the Stratoliner are probably my picks of the bunch, though the colors available aren't the most versatile. I'd also suggest leaving the feather at home.
The Stoffa hats are like a combination of a fedora and the original panama hats: they can actually be rolled up! The brand is all about making things more accessible and natural, so these soft felt fedoras lack a ribbon in order to help them float the line between casual and formal. The felt is extremely pliable, so you can style the brim and crown anyway you like. It's a great one for guys unsure of wearing the traditional fedora, but still want to don one.
Creating a Business Wardrobe – Styleforum Guide
So, you're starting a new job and don't want to go to work naked–or worse yet, dressed unprofessionally. This discussion will be aimed at getting you into something professional, attractive and appropriate: in other words, a complete business wardrobe.
This is not a piece on how to be "the best-dressed guy in the office." Rather, this will help you "look nice" for work every day, whatever that means in the context of your office environment. If you're at the very beginning of your journey, you might want to check out our guide to buying your first suit, and the perfect business attire before diving into this guide.
There are basically two kinds of professional dress codes. Either your work environment dictates, or at least allows, you to wear a suit and tie some/most of the time, or it doesn't. I'll use "business casual" to describe all of the environments in this latter category, which range from jeans to polos and khakis to blazers and button-downs.
This encompasses a wide range of modes of dress. As the decline of the suit (relative to 50 years ago) is the main source of male confusion over what to wear, it would be impossible to clarify everything in a single post. But if you find yourself lost, look around you for direction, notice what your coworkers wear for a couple of weeks before buying a whole new wardrobe.
The two best ways to look nicer without looking too "dressed up" are to have clothes that fit you well, and to upgrade your footwear. A common mistake is to buy clothes that are too big. The shoulder seam of your shirts – be they polos or dress shirts, should approximately line up with your own shoulders. Your pants should have little to no "break" around the ankles, and should sit above your hips, within an inch or two of your belly button. Pant length is easily altered, but you may have to try a couple of different makers before finding a trouser that fits you correctly in the seat and thighs.
In an office of polos, you can wear a well-fitting oxford cloth button down and look better without being overdressed. With the advent of online tailors, getting dress shirts that fit is cheaper than ever before, although it may take a couple of iterations with your tailor before the fit is just right. Starting at less than $100, you can have shirts made for you so that they won't be billowy around the arms and midsection. Luxire and Spier & MacKay are places to start with good reputations. If you do buy ready-made shirts, any tailor can take in the shirt and put darts in for around $15-20.
For some reason, quality of footwear is virtually uncorrelated with the formality of clothing in modern male dress. Walking around the streets of today's cities, you'll see men in suits wearing rubber-soled slip-ons, as well as men in jeans wearing nicely polished leather-soled oxford dress shoes. As a result, you can wear nicer shoes with almost any outfit and not be overdressed. Wearing quality, well-cared-for shoes with your business casual outfit will significantly improve your appearance without seeming pretentious or out of place. As an added bonus, women notice shoes.
About the only shoe most men should have that might look "too dressy" is the black oxford cap-toe, although even this can still be worn with business casual. Since you'll need this kind of shoe for more formal occasions like weddings, funerals, and job interviews anyway, it's a good one to have. Just don't wear it with your more casual clothes. After that, you can add some wingtips, brogues, and/or loafers.
[For more information about what shoes to get and how to care for them, check out Mitch's article on versatile shoes]
If you're wearing a business suit and tie to work every day, then you have a more closely prescribed form of dress. Let's start off with:
The Suit
Hopefully, you've got one or two navy and/or charcoal suits from prior to your interview process. If you've only got one, first thing to do is buy another. You don't want to be wearing the same suit every day. Suits benefit from a day of rest after wear, and you may have to send one to the cleaners at some point. Although while we're on that subject, unless you spill something, you shouldn't need to dry clean suits often at all. Once a season (every few months) is plenty.
Eventually, you'll want to get to at least 5 suits if you're wearing one every day of the work week. Once you have 3 or 4 solid suits, maybe a medium gray, a navy, and a charcoal, you can branch out into a pinstripe or a subtle glen plaid for a slightly more casual look.
The reasons to start off with solids are that they go with every shirt and tie you have, so you don't have to be limited to one particular suit once you get to laundry day, and they are less memorable to the people you see every day. If you have a pinstripe suit and a windowpane suit people will realize pretty quickly that you own exactly two suits. You could own two solid navy suits and no one will ever think twice about it. In fact, some of the best-dressed men in modern history have worn nothing but navy suits.
Finally, although they are common in American businesswear, the consensus on SF–and indeed among most menswear writers and stylish gentlemen throughout history–is to avoid black suits except for funerals. Black in the daylight flatters very few complexions. Instead, it should be left to evening wear.
Here are some styling pitfalls to avoid for a business suit: you don't want anything that looks flashy or too distinctive. Practice moderation in the width of the lapels, which should approximately half-way to your shoulder. Leave the "shrunken," too-tight look to the runways of fashion shows. Stick to notch lapels until you are more confident in your understanding of professional standards.
Dress Shirts
Start off by finding yourself a shirtmaker. These days, you can get a custom-made dress shirt for less than $100, which will fit you better and therefore look better than most of the $300 dress shirts you could find at your local upscale department store.
Start off with three white shirts, three light blue shirts, in varying weaves if you like, then a couple more in a conservative pattern, perhaps a stripe and a microcheck. This will give you enough shirts that you can make it through the week before needing to get any shirts laundered. If you decide you like light blue shirts more than white, get only one or two white shirts. A light blue shirt will be formal enough for most occasions, so you needn't worrying about being underdressed in such a shirt. Most people do, however, suggest that white shirts are particularly attractive in the evening, and are the most appropriate for funerals. Check out some quality shirts here for inspiration.
As you'll be wearing these shirts with a tie, the shape and dimensions of the collar are especially important. Although you'll see many men walking around with "point collar" dress shirts where the points finish before the jacket lapel begins, this is frowned upon by most stylish suit-and-tie wearers. Instead, the points of the shirt collar should reach under and be hidden by the jacket lapels. If you're American, you can wear button-down collar shirts (whose points will not be hidden underneath the jacket) with your suits. In other parts of the world, button-down collars are considered too sporty to be worn with suits.
Here is the most extravagant element of the suit and tie outfit. While the suit and shirt are sober wool and cotton there to cover your body, the tie is a nicely colored piece of luxurious silk that is purely decorative. The virtue of these boring suits and shirts is that they will look attractive with any tie that is attractive on its own. As such, the tie is the main thing you change from day to day to break up the monotony of navy suits and white shirts.
That said, if you're going for a business look, you still don't want your tie to be "loud". No fuchsia, no lime green, no exploding fireworks, nothing bedazzled. For solid colors, texture is key, so grenadine ties or highly textured weaves work well. For some inspiration check out this soporific tie collection. Most tie-wearing men will have at least one or two ties with navy as their basic color. A starting wardrobe of 12 ties might contain:
- Two navy solids (a grenadine, for instance)
- Two other solids (perhaps a forest green or a burgundy)
- One glen plaid or shepherd's check in black and white or navy and white
- One houndstooth
- Two pindot ties
- Two "neats" – small, evenly spaced designs
- Two repp stripe
This is just a suggestion. Buy ties you like. All ties should be between 2.75" and 3.75" in width. Which side of this spectrum you tend towards should depend on your own width. Choosing colors that reflect the colors of your eyes and hair is likely to be beneficial. Lighter color ties (pale yellows for instance) are more difficult to wear effectively.
If you want to fill your tie wardrobe quickly and cheaply, and you have the patience to go through the Buying & Selling section of SF, you'll frequently find good ties in the $50 range. Once you get to the $75-100 range you can look into places like SF affiliates Vecchio Anseatico, Kent Wang, and Vanda Fine Clothing.
Without question, this is the most neglected area of the typical American man's wardrobe. And without quality footwear, an otherwise impeccable suit-and-tie combination immediately looks slovenly. A proper dress shoe has a leather sole and is classically shaped so that it is neither square-toed nor extremely pointy-toed. If you have the money for it (again, check eBay or the Buy&Sell forum) the "upper" (the non-sole part of the shoe) should be made of full-grain, not corrected-grain (sanded down and filled in to have a specific texture for the grain), leather. New full-grain looks better than new corrected-grain, but more importantly, over time properly maintained full-grain will develop a patina and look better and better, while corrected-grain will look worse and worse.
Outside of Britain, brown shoes are fully appropriate for business-suit-and-tie, although within Britain, only black is complet, ly correct. Black is also completely correct everywhere else.
A good place to start is with one black and one brown pair. If you only needed shoes for work, two brown pairs would be fine, but having at least one pair of black shoes means you are prepared for more formal situations such as job interviews, weddings, and funerals. This black shoe should probably be an oxford cap-toe. For the other, you could get wingtips, derbys, longwings, as you see fit. Adding a medallion or other broguing decreases the formality of the shoe, and therefore probably shouldn't be one of your only two business shoes.
There's a reason you should start with two pairs. Dress shoes need to rest in between wearings in order to have a long, happy, life. Proper care for dress shoes entails:
- 24 hours rest between taking off and putting back on
- Use of shoe trees when not being worn (especially for the first 24 hours after wearing, as the shoes dry out)
- Periodic conditioning and polishing
[For further details on conditioning and polishing, see the official shoe care thread]
The entry-level shoe brand to what most SF members would consider a real quality dress shoe would be Allen Edmonds. You can find AE "seconds" (shoes with very slight defects) for as little as $200. "Firsts" go for around $300. Below AE would be brands like Johnson and Murphy, Cole Haan, and Florsheim. Most of these shoes will have corrected-grain leather, and will not be Goodyear-welted. However, there are at least some models that are classically styled. Kenneth Cole and Aldo are among the most abhorred brands on SF, as their construction is shoddy and their styling hideous.
Check out these popular shoe threads:
What is the best value shoemaker you know?
This article is an edited version of an article published on Styleforum.net by Shawea.
4 Essential Trousers for the Summer
When we think of tailoring, the suit is usually what first comes to mind. In fact, the suit is so synonymous with tailoring in the popular lexicon that even if you're wearing a blazer with odd pants, you'll almost certainly be told "nice suit." Of course we know better, and if you follow my posts on Styleforum or my personal blog, you'll know that I rarely wear suits. My personal preference is for tailored odd jackets and trousers. I love suits and absolutely would wear them every single day if my job or other circumstances necessitated it. As it is, however, I have flexibility in what I wear for work, and I like the versatility of odd jackets.
But in practice, I'm pretty repetitive with my jacket-trouser combination choices. In the warm months, the choices differ from the cold months, but the principle is the same: I basically rotate the same 3-4 pairs of pants with basically every jacket I own.
In that light, here are the four pairs of trousers I find easiest to pair with my tailored jackets in the summer:
1—Mid-Gray trousers in some form of lightweight, breathable wool
My personal preference for this category is fresco, because it keeps its shape and is so hard-wearing (which is a boon for trousers). Fresco is a trademarked name for a specific weave developed by Minnis, but many different mills have developed their own version of the cloth. It stays cool by being open-weave, but it keeps its shape by having tightly-woven yarns. There are other weaves, of course. I owned a pair of gray summer weight hopsack trousers once, which also wore fairly cool. But I ultimately did not like how they draped on me—too loosey goosey. Tropical wool is kind of a catch-all term that means lightweight wool meant to be worn in the warmer months. I say: stick with Fresco if you're unable to examine the cloth in real life to know if you'll like it.
Spier & Mackay 1 • Brooks Brothers • Suitsupply • Suitsupply 2
2—Off-white trousers in whatever fabric you like
I personally go for cotton-linen blend trousers in off-white for summer, because I can wash them. But off-white wool trousers work, too, but I have a personal aversion to them. I have this very specific memory of a used car salesman who had a very 1970s vibe wearing some (honestly they were probably polyester) with a yellow shirt, selling my parents a 1989 Mercury Sable that turned out to be an absolute lemon of a car. That, and I am too cheap to dry clean unless I absolutely have to. But I fully endorse off-white trousers in whatever fabric floats your boat. They literally go with everything (tan jackets, tobacco/cigar jackets, dark brown jackets, navy jackets, green jackets, the list goes on).
Drake's in stone • Polo linen-blend • Spier & Mackay cotton-linen
Spier & Mackay cotton stretch • Brooks Brothers cotton-linen • Ring Jacket
3—Warm khaki cotton chinos
Go toward dressier versions that hold a crease and have either an unfinished seam or a finely finished seam, and you'll look better for the office. Broken-in, more rugged chinos also can work well with a tailored jacket but will look out of place if you're trying to dress them up more. For instance, I wouldn't wear polished calf leather shoes with broken-in chinos, nor would I wear a tie. But with a creased pair of chinos, I'd wear both no problem. I personally think the warmer khaki tones are the most attractive—British khaki, copper, caramel, whatever the retailer you find them at calls them. I prefer its warmth over standard khaki, which is a dustier, more faded tan. That has its place, too, of course (I personally think it works best in the broken-in configuration, worn with a beaten-up OCBD or navy polo shirt).
Brooks Brothers dressier • Brooks Brothers casual • Unis • J.Crew
4—Dark or slightly faded-looking denim
Dark jeans have ruled menswear for a decade or more, and I'm pretty sure there are more selvedge denim companies than there are Styleforum members. There's a good reason for that: they are more flattering on more body types than faded jeans and worn out at night they look dressy enough to make an outfit feel put together. The lighter you go, the closer you get to the dad-jean territory, or rancher territory, or miner territory, or menswear blogger territory. So I say, stick with dark rinses or just ever-so-subtly faded denim and you can't go wrong. In the height of summer, depending on where you live, they might be too hot to wear—but in those situations, wearing a tailored jacket might not make much sense, either.
RRL jeans • Drake's • Mr. Porter denim • Anglo-Italian
Pleated Trousers: the Styleforum Guide
I think it's safe to say that pleated trousers, like the Skynet sentinel-turned-Resistance protector, are back. Actually, they're still shunned by the greater "menswear" (found on Youtube of all places), but for guys in the know, they've never really left. Despite what people say, pleats are functional, stylish, and can certainly have a place in your wardrobe. I've begun wearing them, not as simply a "throwback" but because I genuinely like the fuller cut and the aesthetic difference they provide.
Now, pleats are a fairly modern invention in the world of classic menswear. Though old renaissance and revolutionary trousers were puffy and employed micro pleats, the "modern" suit as we knew it was originally very slim. You can see this reflected in the late 1800s through the early 1920s; trousers were "stovepiped" (meaning slim), had a slight crop/shivering break, and no pleats. Vintage suit ads of the 1910s and early 1920s would show an overall slim silhouette that would almost put shame to the H&M of 2009. In my experience, the main time we saw pleats would be on plus fours/knickers; if they were present, they came in the form of micropleats, hardly the ones we employ today.
Things changed during the late 1920s and 1930s, as menswear began to embrace a broader, masculine silhouette: jacket shoulders became slightly extended and padded (not as much as the later decades) and this draped cut was not flattering over slim trousers, which then became wider, with some models incorporating pleats. English tailors preferred forward pleats, while across the pond they opted for reverse ones. Not only was this just a natural evolution of suit silhouette, but it was necessary as swing dancing and other "casual' activities grew in popularity. Simply said, people needed room to move!
The popularity of pleats and pant width grew in shrank in size–but were always present–until almost disappearing completely during the 1990s after reaching their peak of popularity. Wide, triple pleated pants (worn at the hips for some reason) marked the almost-death of this take on trousers, as fashion bloggers (and vloggers now) only continue to shun pleated trousers, not only saying that they're old school but actually make you look uglier and less flattering. Those statements, oft spouted in every free guide they peddle, couldn't be further from the truth.
In fact, pleats have never really gone away, being worn by both seasoned gentlemen and younger men in the classic menswear world. It's easy to see the draw of this tailored detail: everyone knows that it provides more room in the thighs, but to me, it also acts as a visual additive.
Pleats on trousers accent the sharp crease, making them much more interesting than simple flat fronts. I think that the recent popularity surge of Gurkhas only added to this phenomenon due to their deep forward pleats, wide waistband, and use of overlapping belts. They're a bit different than regular pleated trousers and work great with tailoring and with casual looks. Personally, I like side-tabs with my pleated trousers to maintain a clean, minimal look.
The secret to pulling pleated trousers off lies in good tailoring. Firstly, you need a high rise. Pleats on hip-hanging pants simply don't work, as they make you look very bottom heavy and contribute poorly to your proportions. Next, you'll have to realize that pleats don't always result in baggy pants. If you're going MTM or bespoke, you can always ask for the trousers to be slim, just with the addition of pleats. Even if you want RTW, most places have been following the trend, offering pleated trousers that are nowhere near as roomy as an 80s power suit. Ensure that the trousers have a slight-to-no-break, and you'll preserve the straight line the crease and pleats create.
Further Reading: a Guide to How Trousers Should Fit
Today you can find pleated trousers in a bunch of different treatments. Grey pleated flannels/worsteds are probably the classic choice, but I think it's worth exploring with pleated chinos and linens for maximum comfort; a dyed seersucker wouldn't be totally out of place in the hot summer sun, with or without a matching jacket. You don't even have to always wear them with a tie! You can always request pleats from your preferred tailor or MTM service (Luxire is a good way to customize your own) but there are a few places that I'd recommend. I've included a pleat inspiration album so you can hopefully see the appeal that pleats have.
A lot of my pleated trousers are old RL ones that I've purchased on eBay. Some are Polo and others are purple label, but they really get the job done with a high rise, full cut, and generous pleating. The only changes I make are usually a gentle taper through the thigh and a hem if necessary. I can't speak too much about their current offerings, but there are some decent offerings on their website that have been updated for a more contemporary fit.
Rubinacci has been extremely popular for RTW gurkha style trousers. They don't make them in traditional dress fabrics, but their different shades of cotton should be enough to fill out your wardrobe. They're a bit on the casual side, but that's nothing a good textured sportcoat and blucher won't fix!
Stoffa has been known to make great MTM field jackets and aviator zips, but their trousers are rather noteworthy. While there is a degree of customization on fit, the brand has a house style that opts for a slim-straight leg that can be offset with sharp (yet a bit shallow) pleats; you can always choose to go with one if you haven't graduated to double-pleats just you. Like Rubinacci, they offer cottons to experiment with, though Stoffa also has linen and flannel swatches for you to choose from if you want to get dressy.
Suit Supply is typically one of the places to go when you're first starting out in menswear, as they offer some of the classic details you can't really find at the mall. Think wide lapels, soft shoulders, side tabs, and patch pockets to name a few. While they have typically done extremely slim, flat front trousers, they've experimented with pleats a few times. Their Jort line is probably the best model, with a high rise, full button fly, side tabs, and double reverse pleats. If you find pleats on their regular models, I suggest sizing up so that the leg opening is a bit roomier.
If you really like the gurkhas but want to go straight into the more casual side of pleated trousers, the Scott Frasier gaucho trouser is something to consider. With a high waist, wide opening, and a single lead construction, they are a very clean/minimal trouser, if not eccentric; they're begging to be worn while relaxing around the beach. If that isn't your speed, he also has a "traditional" trouser that comes with dropped belt loops.
As a retailer of fine clothing, it makes sense that they stock a variety of trousers, some of which are pleated. All of these are cut with a high rise and a slim-straight silhouette, as to prevent you from looking too too "old school" with your grey pleated trousers. The Ring Jacket AMP-02 features a single pleat and are a great entry before moving onto their Rota selection. I'm much more intrigued by their pleated Pomella RTW, which has a self-belt, calling back to the gurkha closure. They've also introduced Osaku Trousers which are double pleated and use Daks (button) side adjusters.

subset: commoncrawl


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Five ways to make a beautiful garden container
A cook's garden
Store-bought herbs don't have a long shelf-life. With your very own herb garden, you'll be able to enjoy fresh herbs quickly and easily.
"Herbs work really well in containers — especially those that can be invasive, like mint," says Peg. She suggests combining parsley, arjoram and mint for a fresh green look with lots of texture. Thyme can also be very pleasing to the eye, but is trickier as it is a slower-growing herb that doesn't need as much water. However, "it will help you to create a wonderful, layered effect." She advises the use of a traditional planter pot. "Strawberry planters are great for herbs as they show off each plant and also stop any one plant from dominating the growing space."


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Policies & Publications
On this page you'll find all our policies, as well as other key documents published by Onward.
To request other Onward policies or publications, please contact us.
Compliments, Comments & Complaints Policy
Domestic Gas and Carbon Monoxide Safety Policy
Annual Customer Report 2018-19
Annual Report & Financial Statements 2017-18
Annual Report & Financial Statements 2018-19
Annual Complaints Review 2017-18
Strategic Objectives 2019-2023
Value for Money (VFM) Strategy
Hattersley Evaluation Report Summary
Customer Engagement Strategy 2018


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The possibility to add an unsubscribe link is very often requested but we intentionally decided not to include it in our product.
For two main reasons:
- Every email you send with Prospect.io is a personal email sent from your personal mailbox. Prospect.io simply automates it. You wouldn't put an unsubscribe link in a personal email. Prospect.io is not an email marketing service and nowadays, cold marketing emails are literally the definition of spam.
- It would signal to your prospects that you're reaching out through an automated solution. Usually, this dramatically affects response rates.
From a legal stand point: you must always allow your prospect to opt out but it doesn't need to be through a link. It needs to be clear and when your recipients request to be unsubscribed, you must comply. This is something you need to do manually by archiving them on Prospect.io.
We have 2 pieces of advice as an alternative to unsubscribe links:
- PS in your signature: we recommend you adding a PS to your signature or a friendly mention in the content of your emails, inviting anyone not interested and wanting to opt out to let you know about it.
- Set your Goal: Prospect.io will automatically stop campaigns for prospects who reply (if that is the goal you set); you just have to archive the ones who ask to be unsubscribed in order to ensure they are never contacted again.
Adding an unsubscribe link to a sales prospecting email would simply not be relevant.
> opt out > exit


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20th Russian Florist Cup at "FlowersExpo"14.06.2019 17:14
Traditionally, the site where the most important event is held annually is the Championship of Russia among professional florists, is the international Trade Fair "FlowersExpo". So this year, within its framework, on September 10-11, the 20th Russian Florist CUP'2019 will be held. The organizer is the National Guild of Florists of Russia.
For professionals, it is very important that such a significant event, which opens the way to the heights of excellence in this creative and beautiful profession, is held exactly within the framework of the exhibition FlowersExpo, which received deserved recognition which in Russia and world.
For flower designers, the Russian Professional Floristry Championship is an effective school of competition and a place for intensive communication with colleagues.
Russian florists have gained great prestige and recognition in Europe and the world. Among them is our famous designer Natalia Zhizhko. It all started with the fact that in 2009 she won the title of Champion of Russia in floristics. In 2011 - European champion. In 2019, at the International World Championships in Philadelphia, USA, she won the title of vice-world Champion in Floristics.
Winners of the World Cup 2019 Bart Hassam - Australia, Natalia Zhizhko - Russia, Tamas Mesefi - Hungary.
Winners and prize-winners of qualifying competitions included in the system of professional competitions of the National Guild of Florists, as well as florists, who took first places in other responsible competitions, are invited to take part in the Championship.
The Russian Florist Cup'2019 for each participant is a work in which new frontiers of professionalism are won. Competition transforms participants, they come out of the "battle" updated, more powerful, experienced, confident.
September 10-12, 2019
Russia, Moscow, IEC "Crocus Expo"
September 11-13, 2018
Russia, Moscow, IEC "Crocus Expo"


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Have you ever wondered what it means to have a copyright? You see the symbol everywhere -- in almost every book, publication, website, and digital media you read or listen to. But what does it mean?
A copyright is intellectual property tied to the tangible expression of an underlying idea or concept. It's a right that protects the original author of both published and unpublished works. Common examples include songs or novels. The music or novel itself can be protected by copyright as it is tangibly expressed on a hard drive, CD, or the pages of a book.
Simply having a tune in one's head, unfortunately, does not protect that tune. One must place that tune in tangible form (or "copy") for the copyright protection to be secured. Registered copyrights give the holder protection for a period of time. Once the time period has elapsed, these works are open to others for reproduction and republication.
A copyright does not have to be registered, however, to be protectable. There are certain advantages to registration, and with the relative ease of registration, any valuable work should certainly be copyrighted. A copyright is automatically secured when a work is tangibly created, or fixed in a copy (i.e., on a CD or other media). "Copies" are material objects from which a work can be read, heard, viewed, or visually perceived either directly or with the aid of a machine or device, such as books, manuscripts, sheet music, film, videotape, DVD, CD, or cassette tape or microfilm (if you remember those ancient things).
Copyrights are registered through the U.S. Copyright Office, and those filed in or after 1978 will last for the author's life plus 70 years after his or her death. Registration of copyright gives the author more definitive protection and rights under law and equity to sue and claim more hefty damages for infringement or abuse of one's copyrighted material. Registration also allows an owner of a copyright to charge license fees or other permission fees (royalties) for others' use of that copyrighted material.
Much more information about the types of Copyrights can be found on the U.S. Copyright office's website. A brief article from that website reviewing the basics can be found here.


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Freaking News
Volkswagen Turtle - pictures
World Turtle Day
I wonder if the turtle could win this race with his smarts.Got tired of the old beetle.Please view full
3798 days ago
2 comments
high resolution picture
Excellent turtle shell texture work on the VW.
I miss a driver i think. Some overheated cartoonish caricature to give it a feel of excitement that the race is about to start.
to comment and participate in contests.
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Jason B.
San Diego, CA
Reliable Delivery
Simply the best.
I hired Reliable Delivery for my move of one bedroom apt in UTC area, two blocks apart from my old location.
Everything went smooth despite the pouring rain in the morning, Dan and Chris are champs !
I did my homework before hiring them and even though their quote was a bit higher than the others, I end up choosing them because:
- I talked to the owner , Dan, who was very nice and provided prompt response to multiple questions;
- Upon asking # of bedrooms and sqr foot they provided MIN and MAX values on their quote - avoiding further surprises ;
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- They arrived on time, even though it was pouring and a cold morning
- They handled everything with care
- They didn't even stop for a break !
The move ended on time, under 3 hours: by 11 am it was done !
I'll definitely hire them in the future and I'm recommending it to friends.


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The Perspi-Guard Sensitive Liquid gel antiperspirant has been specifically designed for sensitive skin types and people with low tolerance to aluminium chloride, alcohol or common antiperspirant ingredients. The liquid gel can be used all over the body including the face.
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Delivery estimate times can be found here.
Collect in Store for Free in one of our pharmacy locations at Inish Pharmacy Carndonagh, Muff or Buncrana. You will receive an email when your order is ready for collection, which is usually within 1 working day.
*Terms and conditions apply, for more information read our Delivery information page.
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Hi, I'm Ruth
Mom, architecture aficionado, interior designer, cook, dog-lover and traveler
The Back Story
Design isn't just my work—it's always been my life. I grew up in Milwaukee surrounded by my parents' unbridled creativity. My mom, who is Japanese, is an exquisite seamstress—hence my passion for fine fabrics and fashion. She also taught business administration to students from all walks of life. She inspired them—and me—to always go the extra mile. My Dutch-German dad was an artist and graphic designer, so he was constantly painting, sketching and drawing on napkins, placemats and even the church program! He loved road trips and architecture, so we spent many memorable weekends exploring the Frank Lloyd Wright buildings at SC Johnson headquarters in Racine and riding glass elevators, taking boat trips and visiting art galleries in Chicago. Whether because of nature or nurture, it seems inevitable that I would become an interior designer with a passion for architecture!
How I Work
For me, interior design is like cooking—another passion of mine. Planning and designing the interiors of a home is like making yosenabe, one of my favorite Japanese dishes. It's an aromatic and savory soup with a glorious balance of colors, textures and flavors including umami—that ineffable "fifth taste" that makes a great meal linger in one's memory. Even yose, which means "putting together" and nabe, which means "hot pot," are apt metaphors for the design process!
If I Wasn't an Interior Designer
I'd love to be the editor of a modern shelter magazine so I could interview architects and designers and photograph amazing homes around the world!
"For me, interior design is about honing in on my clients' dreams, honoring the architecture of their home and enhancing their lives with color, energy and comfort."


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3rd July to 24th July 2019
Buxton Festival Fringe was started in 1980 to run concurrently with the opera-based Buxton Festival. This open access arts event, one of the largest Fringe festivals in England, provides a showcase for performers of all kinds in a variety of venues with many using it as a springboard for the Edinburgh Fringe. Dance, drama, music, poetry, comedy, film, exhibitions and magic are just some of the forms that have appeared. The Fringe has a respected and professional image with full colour printed programme, reviews, awards, dynamic website and Facebook, Instagram and Twitter presence. 2019 marks Fringe40 – the Fringe's 40th year. It is the biggest ever Fringe with nearly 220 entries and over 760 individual performances. Buxton International Festival, which started a year earlier in 1979, celebrates its 40th anniversary making 2019 a very special year for the town which will also see the long-awaited reopening of The Crescent.
To buy tickets and for more information please visit Buxton Festival Fringe
Email: email@example.com
Facebook | Twitter


text:
Anne Stauff, Queen of Theme Rides
Instructor Anne Stauff is well-known for her sweat-drenched, heart-thumping, always-jumping rides – all while rocking out to the ever-changing musical theme of the week.
From "Prince vs Bruno Mars" to "Ladies of the 80s" to "Superheroes," Anne is truly the queen of theme rides! Her costume room is stocked full of ripped-from-the-hangers-and-probably-glue-gunned looks, authentic cowboy hats and holiday-themed leggings. She's ready to go at a moment's notice to find a killer (yet bike-friendly) costume to celebrate the musician or band of the week — whether she has to cut sleeves off an Alice and Olivia top or turn a designer scarf into an ascot for a Prince tribute ride.
We asked her about her favorite theme rides over the years:
What has been your favorite theme ride or "concert," as some of your riders call them?
Anything ROCK!! Last week was Southern Rock, and I have three coming up in October for three Saturdays in a row: 70s, 80s, and 90s Rock!
What inspires you to create a theme ride?
I needed a way to corral my thoughts and themes! I think riders like knowing what genre is going to play that day.
What has been your favorite costume?
Hands Down: Braveheart. I was teaching the Monday evening class in Ridgefield after being stuck in the house for three days due to a snow storm. Apparently I had some pent up creativity and energy! I dressed in a kilt, blue face paint and made the class' theme "FREEDOM," channeling my best Braveheart. I bring it out now and then on special rides!
What do your teenage kids think of you dressing up for rides?
Exactly what you think they think! I now "threaten" to walk them into school in my various costumes! They seem to get ready for school extra fast on theme ride mornings!
How do you organize your costumes — are they organized by theme in bins?
No, but now I am going to do that! My closet is color-coordinated so that's how I organize everything. The worst thing anyone could ever do to me is sneak into my closet and put a brown shirt in the black shirt section!
Do you like Halloween? If so, what's your favorite over the years?
I love it! One year I was Napoleon Dynamite and learned the "Vote for Pedro" dance
Why do you think riders respond well to your theme rides?
I think we all have that need to express ourselves with our inner dress-up/rockstar/fantasy. We all sing to Adele, Stevie Nicks, etc. and imagine how cool that would be to perform (whether you openly admit it or not!). I also believe that when words fail, music speaks. We all know those thoughts you cannot express, but there's a song out there that you can relate to. Somewhere, someone is belting out exactly how you feel in a favorite song!
I also think if you embrace your inner performer, you can get into the ride that much quicker and you let yourself lose your stress more quickly. You instantly know this is going to be a fun ride. Also it's like escapism from all the other stuff we deal with outside the studio. As a rider, I remember taking one of Meagen O'Connell's Prince rides and thinking, "Today is going to be awesome! How can we not? We're all dressed like Prince!" When people see me dressed up as the flavor of the day, they instantly know we're going to have fun.
Do you have a mantra for theme rides?
Let the MUSIC speak for itself!!


text:
Highest voted questions tagged routes - Drupal Answers most recent 30 from drupal.stackexchange.com 2019-10-18T02:19:21Z https://drupal.stackexchange.com/feeds/tag?tagnames=routes&sort=votes https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/rdf https://drupal.stackexchange.com/q/62473 103 How should I implement hook_menu()? Letharion https://drupal.stackexchange.com/users/1625 2013-02-16T00:02:28Z 2018-02-18T22:23:19Z
What are the fundamentals of implementing hook_menu()?

I would like to see the basics covered in a single question, to avoid having to answer the same similar but different questions over and over.
 https://drupal.stackexchange.com/q/1757 27 How to add module to admin/config page? Matt V. https://drupal.stackexchange.com/users/272 2011-04-02T05:29:46Z 2017-08-02T12:41:47Z
I'm working on a module in Drupal 7. I've added a hook_menu implementation:

$items['admin/config/content/mymodule'] = [ 'title' => 'MyModule', 'description' => 'Configure MyModule settings.', 'page callback' => 'mymodule_get_form', 'page arguments' => ['mymodule_admin_settings'], 'file' => 'mymodule.admin.inc', 'access arguments' => ['administer mymodule'], 'menu_name' => 'mymodule', ];

...and a configure line to mymodule.info:

configure = admin/config/content/mymodule

A Configure link for MyModule now appears the admin/modules page, but how can I also have the module listed on the admin/config page? Or is the admin/config page reserved for only core modules?
 https://drupal.stackexchange.com/q/202831 24 Get the route name of the current page Oana Hulpoi https://drupal.stackexchange.com/users/25040 2016-06-01T12:19:48Z 2019-08-14T19:09:39Z
The route name of the current page is available in page.html.twig? The page is generated by the default feedback form.
 https://drupal.stackexchange.com/q/89906 24 Why are routing files filled with underscores? Daniel https://drupal.stackexchange.com/users/815 2013-10-23T10:04:19Z 2015-04-17T21:31:01Z
What is the deal with all the parameters with, and without, a prefixed underscore character?

Where does Drupal decide how to process these parameters?

Was this concept introduced from Symfony, or is it new to Drupal?

Example (node.routing.yml):

node.overview_types: path: '/admin/structure/types' defaults: _controller: '\Drupal\Core\Entity\Controller\EntityListController::listing' entity_type: 'node_type' _title: 'Content types' requirements: _permission: 'administer content types'
 https://drupal.stackexchange.com/q/5968 21 What's the difference between access arguments and access callback? user1359 https://drupal.stackexchange.com/users/1441 2011-06-27T15:40:46Z 2018-05-02T10:51:02Z
What's the difference between access arguments and access callback?

Suppose I set the access callback to 'user_access', and array('custom permission') is the value for the access arguments.

What does that mean? How do they affect each other?
 https://drupal.stackexchange.com/q/1963 20 How do I add a hash link in menus? mohamad salama https://drupal.stackexchange.com/users/824 2011-04-06T14:06:00Z 2017-05-25T13:38:55Z
Is there a way to add a hashed link in the menu under drupal menu to just make a menu item that jumps down to an anchor or id on the page?
 https://drupal.stackexchange.com/q/64158 19 In views, what is the difference between Normal menu entry, Menu tab and Default menu tab Nigel Waters https://drupal.stackexchange.com/users/9626 2013-03-01T23:06:12Z 2015-08-11T08:15:21Z
When adding a menu item in views I see three selections that are ambiguius

Normal menu entry

Menu tab

Default menu tab

What is the difference and when would I use each?

 https://drupal.stackexchange.com/q/85222 18 Access denied occurs after translate menu link Bibix https://drupal.stackexchange.com/users/20626 2013-09-10T13:53:35Z 2014-11-25T12:12:17Z
I want to translate my menu, I have installed internationalization, variable and locale modules but on my menu items when I click on translate :

An access Denied page is displayed :

What am I doing wrong?

[EDIT] Log :
 https://drupal.stackexchange.com/q/2507 17 Do you have an example of hook_menu() access callback? Strae https://drupal.stackexchange.com/users/32 2011-04-19T15:49:26Z 2012-06-26T11:47:16Z
I have downloaded the examples project, but in the menu_example module all the access callback are set to true.. hard to understand how it works.

In my example, my meno entry should be visible on nodes, but only for roles that have the permissions to edit his own nodes.

I cant find an example a bit more verbose of an access callback.

Do anyone have one?
 https://drupal.stackexchange.com/q/2264 17 How can I create a view of child nodes based on the menu relationship? Camsoft https://drupal.stackexchange.com/users/12 2011-04-13T10:53:39Z 2016-03-29T21:05:43Z
Say you have the following pages in a menu tree:

Projects

Project One

Project Two

Project Three

I'm looking for a way to create a view that will be embedded in the Project (parent) page that will show a pic, title and text (summary) from the child pages.

The relationship between the parent and the children is defined in the menu tree.

I know I can use node reference, but that would mean every time someone creates a page they would have to define the menu relationship and then the node reference relationship.

Also I know that I could create another content-type but I think this is overkill as all content pages look the same.
 https://drupal.stackexchange.com/q/116 17 How do I add an access condition to a menu item? Chaulky https://drupal.stackexchange.com/users/134 2011-03-02T23:06:09Z 2015-12-27T10:39:03Z
How can I add new conditions on top of existing conditions that determine whether a menu item is visible? These conditions should not be limited to permissions settings.

As an example use case (not necessarily the reason for this question): Suppose I have a content type of which users are only allowed to create one node. I have a menu item for adding that type of content. But if the user has already created a node of that content type, I want to hide the menu item. My first thought is to run a query to check for the existence of a node created by the current user that is of the specific content type. If one exists, hide the menu item.

I would think this type of functionality should go into hook_menu_alter() and add the required logic there. But I'm not sure how to do that without bypassing the existing checks, like checking if the user has permissions to create that type of content. Would I have to include that logic within my own condition? Or can I add to the existing access logic without overwriting it?

Edit: Some people seem focused on answering "how do I limit a user to creating one node of a content type". That is not the question here. The question is how to I add custom access conditions to a menu item.
 https://drupal.stackexchange.com/q/51182 16 How to use "user logged in" as an access argument for a MENU_CALLBACK? jdu https://drupal.stackexchange.com/users/5654 2012-11-22T20:42:38Z 2012-11-22T21:02:39Z
I would like to require that users be logged in to access a particular MENU_CALLBACK.

The following works, but only for the admin account. Regular users are still denied access:

'access arguments' => array('user_is_logged_in')

There must be an access argument that just checks for authenticated users?
 https://drupal.stackexchange.com/q/41570 15 Create a menu programmatically in Drupal 7 user8012 https://drupal.stackexchange.com/users/8012 2012-09-03T23:32:36Z 2016-08-09T18:09:59Z
A newbie question guys.

Any thoughts how can I create a menu programmatically? Says I have 3 different menus I want to create. The first menu will be placed in the top left of the header. The second menu will be placed below the first menu. The third menu will be the main navigation.

Could these the menus be under the same group? Would it be a problem in styling?

Thanks
 https://drupal.stackexchange.com/q/24783 15 Advanced menu theming in Drupal 7 Lester Peabody https://drupal.stackexchange.com/users/1909 2012-03-07T04:46:14Z 2017-07-04T17:57:58Z
I've cruised around the web and it is not at all obvious how to theme custom menus. I've looked for hours and have not found one single post that illustrates the process, from start to finish, of creating a menu and customizing its output. It seems like this is a multi-stage process:

Create the menu through the Drupal interface.

Create a theme function in your template.php file to theme the output.

Expose this menu to a template file (somehow) by adding it as a variable.

Call the theme function on the menu in the template file.

1 is easy enough to do, the problems I run into are with 2, 3, and 4. Looking at the default page template, I see that it exposes the main menu in the variable $main_menu. Later down the page you can see the function theme('links__system_main_menu', array('links' => $main_menu..., which means it's looking for an appropriately named theme function somewhere and using it to generate the output.

I know if I place function theme_links__system_main_menu(&$variables) {...} in my template.php file Drupal will use that function as opposed to function theme_menu_links(&$variables) {...}.

What I don't know is how Drupal links the custom menu I created with that function. Let's say for example that I created a menu called My Menu. Could I create the following function in my template.php file and theme the output for that menu? function theme_links__system_my_menu(&$variables) {...}

Also, how does one make that custom menu available to a template file? How does Drupal expose the $main_menu variable to page.tpl.php?

I think the key I'm missing here is how to embed the variable that represents my custom menu into a template page. For the most part though I'm completely lost with what to do after having created the menu.

Thanks for the help.

EDIT: Probably should post what I'm doing. Per my comment to BetaRide below, I need to inject customized HTML into the
 elements of the menu items. Specifically, I'm adding Twitter Bootstrap icons.
 https://drupal.stackexchange.com/q/223405 14 How to get route name of a view page? David Mcsmith https://drupal.stackexchange.com/users/36159 2016-12-19T22:34:15Z 2018-04-05T12:13:10Z
In my custom submit handler I want to redirect to a view page Url, let's suppose my view name is team and its path is /admin/team, I find out I should use $from_state->setRedirect('route'); but when I tried $from_state->setRedirect('/admin/team'); Faced with error, How can I get view route name in?
 https://drupal.stackexchange.com/q/37262 14 create tabs with hook_menu() for custom module mhmdrupal https://drupal.stackexchange.com/users/8179 2012-07-17T14:48:17Z 2015-10-21T17:04:34Z
since two hours im trying to create tabs in my custom modules backend.

I've tried severals suggestions but couldn't get any of them to work.

this is my current hook_menu() :

 function social_links_menu() { $items['admin/config/system/social_links'] = array( 'title' => 'social_links', 'description' => 'Configure to fit clients needs', 'page callback' => 'drupal_get_form', 'page arguments' => array('social_links_settings'), 'access arguments' => array('administer site configuration'), 'file' => 'social_links.admin.inc', ); return $items; }

I simply want two tabs called: 'tab1' and 'tab2'.

Can someone give me an working example? This should be really simple, but right now it seems impossible
 https://drupal.stackexchange.com/q/20311 14 how to separate taxonomy hierarchy in pathauto with slashes jan https://drupal.stackexchange.com/users/1770 2012-01-21T17:05:27Z 2015-02-02T08:32:50Z
Pathauto seems to have a different way of aliasing taxonomy hierarchy.

From Taxonomy Menu:

Classifieds > Cars > Aston Martin > DB9 Coupe

Classifieds > Jobs > Accounting

What I want is something like this for the url:

classifieds/jobs/accounting (not accounting-jobs-classifieds)

(Note that Pathautho generates this with dashes in reverse order as well.)

In Pathauto, I'm using this pattern: Default path pattern (applies to all vocabularies with blank patterns below)

[term:parents-all]

Confused.
 https://drupal.stackexchange.com/q/197157 14 How can I get the nid of a node from the page alias? BrandenB171 https://drupal.stackexchange.com/users/45181 2016-04-06T19:33:58Z 2017-01-15T06:22:15Z
I want to be able to get the nid but the only information I have is http://example.com/this-is-the-alias.

Is there a drupal function to get either the internal path of /node/* for that alias if I am not on the page? Or is there a way to just get the nid from that alias right away?
 https://drupal.stackexchange.com/q/81362 14 How do I alter the route defined by another module? kiamlaluno https://drupal.stackexchange.com/users/199 2013-08-03T00:18:16Z 2019-05-18T17:48:38Z
In other words, what is the Drupl 8 equivalent of hook_menu_alter()?

Drupal 8 still uses hook_menu(), but for what I can see, the information returned by the hook is different from what the hook returned in Drupal 7. For example, the definition given in user_menu() for user is the following.

 $items['user'] = array( 'title' => 'User account', 'title callback' => 'user_menu_title', 'weight' => -10, 'route_name' => 'user_page', 'menu_name' => 'account', );

The route_name property links to an entry in the user.routing.yml file.

user_page: pattern: '/user' defaults: _content: '\Drupal\user\Controller\UserController::userPage' requirements: _access: 'TRUE'

This is different from what done with Symphony, and it confuses me about how a module can alter the route defined from another user.

The only function that is still invoking hook_menu_alter() is menu_router_build(), but that function still contains code that needs to be updated, since it is still using the now deprecated drupal_alter().

 // Alter the menu as defined in modules, keys are like user/%user. drupal_alter('menu', $callbacks); foreach ($callbacks as $path => $router_item) { // If the menu item is a default local task and incorrectly references a // route, remove it. // @todo This may be removed later depending on the outcome of // http://drupal.org/node/1889790 if (isset($router_item['type']) && $router_item['type'] == MENU_DEFAULT_LOCAL_TASK) { unset($callbacks[$path]['route_name']); } // If the menu item references a route, normalize the route information // into the old structure. Note that routes are keyed by name, not path, // so the path of the route takes precedence. if (isset($router_item['route_name'])) { $router_item['page callback'] = 'USES_ROUTE'; $router_item['access callback'] = TRUE; $new_path = _menu_router_translate_route($router_item['route_name']); unset($callbacks[$path]); $callbacks[$new_path] = $router_item; } }
 https://drupal.stackexchange.com/q/19957 14 If two modules both defined the same menu path in 'hook_menu', which one Drupal will choose? gilzero https://drupal.stackexchange.com/users/451 2012-01-17T13:09:13Z 2019-02-11T14:35:37Z
For example, "moduleone" defines the path 'admin/hello', which output print_moduleone_stuff().

/** * Implements hook_menu() */ function moduleone_menu() { $items['admin/hello'] = array( 'title' => 'Module One Hello World', 'page callback' => print_moduleone_stuff, ); return $items; }

"moduletwo" defines the path 'admin/hello', which output print_moduletwo_stuff().

/** * Implements hook_menu() */ function moduletwo_menu() { $items['admin/hello'] = array( 'title' => 'Module Two Hello World', 'page callback' => print_moduletwo_stuff, ); return $items; }

Both modules defined 'admin/hello' path for different result. With these two module enabled, how does Drupal select one than another? How does Drupal solve the conflict?
 https://drupal.stackexchange.com/q/2345 14 How do I use URL aliases in menus? cpuguru https://drupal.stackexchange.com/users/37 2011-04-14T15:00:23Z 2012-12-26T07:28:08Z
I am kicking the tires on Drupal 7 by spinning up a test site.

I chose the Danland theme and created various pages with URL Aliases for each, but when I create the Menu link for each, I can only enter the node in the "Path" field for the menu link and not the alias. So I can only enter "node/20" and not "about-us" (the alias for the node) in the menu.

I'd like the menu items to resolve to the aliases and not the nodes.
 How do I do that?
 https://drupal.stackexchange.com/q/58618 13 How do I call the menu_rebuild function in Drupal 7? user12804 https://drupal.stackexchange.com/users/12804 2013-01-28T06:06:25Z 2016-01-27T16:10:39Z
I would like to call the menu_rebuild() function, but I am not sure of where exactly paste the code snippet.

I can't find the update.php file anywhere in my local instance.

The reason I would like to attempt this is that I deleted all the nodes, but they are still appearing under the menu structure.
 https://drupal.stackexchange.com/q/165884 12 How to redirect an anonymous user to the login form after a 403 error? user21641 https://drupal.stackexchange.com/users/0 2015-07-17T12:35:09Z 2019-01-31T09:49:36Z
I want to redirect an anonymous user to the login form if such user encounters a 403 error.

I have created event subscriber and this is my code, but I end up on loop on the current page.

/** * Redirect anonymous user to login page if he encounters 404 or 403 * response. * * @param \Symfony\Component\HttpKernel\Event\GetResponseEvent $response * The created response object that will be returned. * @param string $event * The string representation of the event. * @param \Drupal\Component\EventDispatcher\ContainerAwareEventDispatcher $event_dispatcher * Event dispatcher that lazily loads listeners and subscribers from the dependency injection * container. */ public function checkLoginNeeded(GetResponseEvent $response, $event, ContainerAwareEventDispatcher $event_dispatcher) { $routeMatch = RouteMatch::createFromRequest($response->getRequest()); $route_name = $routeMatch->getRouteName(); $is_anonymous = \Drupal::currentUser()->isAnonymous(); $is_not_login = $route_name != 'user.login'; if ($is_anonymous && $route_name == 'system.403' && $is_not_login) { $query = $response->getRequest()->query->all(); // $query['destination'] = $routeMatch->getRouteObject()->getPath(); $query['destination'] = \Drupal::url('<current>'); $login_uri = \Drupal::url('user.login', [], ['query' => $query]); $returnResponse = new RedirectResponse($login_uri, Response::HTTP_FOUND); $response->setResponse($returnResponse); } }

I think this is related to the fact that the response already contains destination(current uri) and system.404 and system.403 have some high priority that prevent me to override this.
 https://drupal.stackexchange.com/q/223095 12 Redirect Anonymous user to login page David Mcsmith https://drupal.stackexchange.com/users/36159 2016-12-15T18:47:35Z 2019-07-17T14:22:12Z
I want if user not logged in and visit any page of my website except my REST VIEWS routers I redirect him/her to login page in drupal 8, I found this solutions for drupal 7 but didn't find any solution for Drupal 8,

Redirect anonymous user to login page

How to redirect anonymous users to login page using Rules module?

 https://drupal.stackexchange.com/q/76138 12 How can I inject a taxonomy menu as the sub-menu of a standard menu item? Clive https://drupal.stackexchange.com/users/2800 2013-06-13T11:04:50Z 2013-06-22T13:50:10Z
I have a main menu, with a top-level structure similar to the following:

Home - Categories - Something Else - ... - Contact

Each of those top-level links goes to an appropriate node page.

I have a vocabulary for Categories (multi-level), and I need to get those taxonomy terms in a sub-menu under the "Categories" item. I'd like to avoid hard-coding the items into the main menu, as the sub-menu should grow/shrink as the vocabulary does.

In the past I've written over-elaborate code to accomplish this, which hooks into taxonomy operations and manages a particular menu's sub-items based on that (very similar to what Taxonomy Menu does, but without having to have a different menu for each vocabulary).

While that method works, it's not ideal and certainly not generic. I can't just lift that code from the old project into the new one, it would require a reasonable amount of customisation.

I can't help feeling there must be a 'standard', module-based solution to this.

I've seen some suggestions out there to use a bunch of different modules in combination (even some suggesting to use Views-based modules, weirdly enough). I'm open to any suggestion, but if it involves installing more than 1 or 2 modules, and a load of hard-coded, context-specific configuration, it's probably not going to help too much in this case.
 https://drupal.stackexchange.com/q/26946 12 Can I add a custom link to "Main Menu" via hook_menu? Aditya M P https://drupal.stackexchange.com/users/2384 2012-03-30T02:16:18Z 2016-12-28T06:17:13Z
I'm trying to add a new link to the Main Menu from inside my module.

Currently, this code:

function custom_food_orders_menu() { $items['order_food'] = array( 'title' => 'Order Food', 'page callback' => 'page_creator_function', 'access callback' => TRUE, 'menu_name=' => 'main-menu', 'type' => MENU_NORMAL_ITEM, ); return $items; }

...adds the 'order food' link to the 'Navigation' menu. I tried setting the menu name to main-menu, but that does not seem to work.

Is this a limitation in Drupal? If it is, I'll adjust by creating a link to that page manually.
 https://drupal.stackexchange.com/q/16110 12 Problem trying to create a views with tabs. Link of tab doesn't point to the path I set gilzero https://drupal.stackexchange.com/users/451 2011-11-24T16:49:10Z 2011-11-26T15:32:32Z
I am trying to create a views with tabs: so that a page that has several tabs, the View has a primary page that shows all Article nodes, a tab for all Event nodes, and a tab for Blog nodes. Something should works like this:

"Content" button in menu links to /content,

"Articles" tab links to /content/articles,

"Blog" tab links to /content/blog,

"Event" tab links to /content/event.

However, with my work, this is what I got:

all the 3 tabs link to /content, instead of /content/articles, /content/blog, /content/event.

==========

Below is configuration of my view:

So basically, the tabs shows up, but the links of tabs are all pointed to /content, rather than their individual link.

What have I done wrong? Please advise. Thanks in advanced!
 https://drupal.stackexchange.com/q/109715 11 Should I use t() in a hook_menu's description? Felix Eve https://drupal.stackexchange.com/users/11306 2014-04-10T09:22:00Z 2017-12-14T11:25:13Z
I have always used t() for hook_menus title and description like this:

$items['some-path'] = array( 'title' => t('My Page Title'), 'description' => t('This is a description about what my page is for'), 'page callback' => 'profile_user_page', );

This makes sense to me so users can translate the title and description into different languages if required.

However this comment on a module review on DO says:

No, that's wrong, don't do that - descriptions in hook_menu() should never use t().

What is the reasoning for this and is this actually best practice?

Also if this is true then should we not use t() for the title as well?
 https://drupal.stackexchange.com/q/7274 11 How to theme a menu block? RoToRa https://drupal.stackexchange.com/users/1902 2011-07-18T10:58:38Z 2011-07-23T10:28:46Z
I have created a custom menu (lets call it "mynav") and in my theme I've created a template specifically for it (block--menu--menu-mynav.tpl.php) which contains:

<div id="mynav" class="<?php print $classes; ?>"<?php print $attributes; ?>> <?php print $content ?>

This works fine.

However I'd prefer to apply the id to the unordered list that is generated and contained in $content. I guess I need to create a function MYTHEME_links__system_mynav_menu like this:

function MYTHEME_links__system_mynav_menu($variables) { return "TEST"; // Generate HTML here (
...) }

but it doesn't seem to have an affect.

What am I doing wrong?
 https://drupal.stackexchange.com/q/46293 11 Increase memory limit doesn't help in Fatal error: Allowed memory size of .../modules/views/views.module on line 416 salift https://drupal.stackexchange.com/users/10605 2012-10-11T04:22:28Z 2019-06-25T04:57:42Z
I've switched from Drupal 7.14 to 7.15 three weeks ago and therefore, I'm encountering a series of very sophisticated (for me) memory limit errors. Those errors occur any time I'm trying to clear cache in performance or to run update scripts.

My hosting company has increased my memory limit in php.ini up to 126 M, 256 M, 512 M, and even 1024 M. But the errors still occur. I've migrated my site from shared to VPS, But the error incredibly still occurs. I have no way and no idea how to move forward.

Here are the errors:

Fatal error: Allowed memory size of 536870912 bytes exhausted (tried to allocate 30 bytes) in /home/example/public_html/sites/all/modules/views/views.module on line 416

Fatal error: Allowed memory size of 536870912 bytes exhausted (tried to allocate 108 bytes) in /home/example/public_html/includes/menu.inc on line 2736

Fatal error: Allowed memory size of 536870912 bytes exhausted (tried to allocate 71 bytes) in /home/example/public_html/sites/all/modules/chain_menu_access/chain_menu_access.module on line 59

allocate 64 bytes) in /home/example/public_html/sites/all/modules/views/includes/base.inc on line 93


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