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If you are processing more than 10-15 birds at any given time you really should invest in tub style chicken plucker. It takes the chicken plucking time from minutes down to seconds. In this post I will detail from start to finish how to build a chicken plucker from scratch for around $200-$400. Then we will take a look at how it runs on chicken processing day.
Before I buy or build anything I always research the heck out of a given subject. Usually you will find that you can build just about anything that you can buy. It is usually just a matter of the price and time investment difference between the purchased product and the built product.
In this case you can purchase a professional plucker from $1000-$2000. Pluckers like the Featherman PRO for full size chickens or the Featherman Gamebird for smaller birds would work just fine if you have $1200 or so to burn on processing chickens.
Eventually you will come across a home made version of these pluckers that pretty much all come from the Whizbang style plucker. These were originally designed by Herrick Kimball who seems to be a prolific writer and tinkerer! He is responsible for the original whizbang plucker plans which he detailed in his book "Anyone can build a tub-style mechanical chicken plucker". While on this topic also take a look at the book "Anyone can build a whizbang chicken scalder". In addition to the book with plans, Mr. Kimball also sells all of the more complicated parts to fabricate for your plucker, the rubber fingers, and heat shrink bags for processing day.
We ended up buying the heat shrink bags from him.
I am generally a book buying fool. I learn most things from books and magazines. But before parting with money on a book I like to be sure that the knowledge provided in that book can't be found in a blog post or video online. For this project there are many fine examples of how to build a drum plucker. And in watching all of the videos on the topic I found many suggested enhancements on the original design. Be sure to search youtube for "whizbang chicken plucker" to see lots of great examples of what you are building.
Here are some of the videos I liked best
As you read and watch videos you will also eventually come across a "cheap plucker" concept that is best described as a bench mounted plucker. I will probably end up building one of these too for a 2nd round of QA plucking after the bulk plucking. If you are processing non-white birds (black broilers for example) the big plucker won't get all the feathers. The black feathers really stand out against the pink skin. And if you miss any of these you will see the feather when the heat shrinked plastic presses against the bird. Not great for presentation!
Here are some helpful step by step plans on the build others have done:
- On backyardpoultrymag.com: http://www.backyardpoultrymag.com/3-3/affordable-homemade-poultry-plucker/
- http://achornfarm.blogspot.com/2009/06/how-to-build-chicken-plucker_30.html
- Some great Q&A about the plucker: http://thedeliberateagrarian.blogspot.com/2007/08/frequently-asked-questions-about.html
Parts Acquisition
Once I decided to build my plucker I itemized what I would need. And then figured out what I could scavenge off the farm, what would have to be created, and what could be bought. Here is the list of things that were needed and where they fell in the acquisition list.
- Scavenged
- timber for the framing – I have a huge wood pile from things I take apart, craigslist finds, scraps. I don't throw wood away. And I make sure to store it properly. If you need to purchase timber for this project you can find cheap rough framing timber at HomeDepot or Lowes. There is no need to get the prettier and slightly more expensive timber for this project. Don't forget to use your veterans discount at HomeDepot or Lowes! 10% off.
- blue barrel for the tub – I had several of these I got on craigslist some while back for $15 each.
- The easy way to locate these sorts of great deals on craigslist is to use a handy tool called IF THIS THEN THAT. It can be found at http://www.ifttt.com. This tool allows you to define a rule and an action. For example (IF:) if you see a new craigslist post for the search on blue barrels in the austin area (THEN:) send me an email to let me know about this. I will post more about what can be done on ifttt later.
- motor to drive the plucker – I have a fairly new metal band saw I purchased from Northern Tool. The saw pretty much sucked. The motor however is in perfect condition.
- pex pipe – I used pex pipe for the shower head at the top of the barrel. I had some of this left over from a project that a buddy did at his house. He didn't need it…I knew I would eventually!
- Bought
- wheels, 1/2" threaded rod for axle, and lock nuts – I got these from TrueValue but you can get them from any hardware store
- water proof switch – TrueValue
- plucker fingers – I bought these on Amazon as that was the best price I could find at the time. Mine came from a seller "Ezplucker by CCOnly". The product is still up located here.
- pex fittings – TrueValue. These were used to connect the ring of pex at the top of the barrel to a PVC pipe to a hose.
- pvc fittings – TrueValue
- pvc to hose fitting – TrueValue
- press fit bearings – TrueValue. I chose this sort of bearing that is simply pressed into a hole in the wood because they were cheap and readily available. A better option would be a "pillow block bearing" which can be found at Northern Tool. They do cost more though.
- plucker shaft – TrueValue. I bought a hardened steel 1/2 shaft. There is both hard and soft steel available. One is for shafts/axles (what you want), and the other is for general purpose welding projects. Ensure that your shaft fits in your bearing.
- shaft collar – TrueValue. These are small thick round pieces of steel that slide over your shaft and have a set screw to lock them into place. We use these to help us keep our axle in position by snubbing them tight on top of or below our bearings. I also use one of these to create the plate that connects our drive wheel and our plucker wheel to the axle. This way we can assemble and disassemble as we need too.
- vbelt – Auto Parts store. I picked up a truck belt. Make sure that you get a vbelt and not a flat grooved belt. You may have to go in the back (most places will let you do this if you tell them you are tinkering and not fixing a car) to find the right length belt.
- Created
- drive wheel – made from a piece of heavy duty plywood
- plucker wheel – made from a piece of heavy duty plywood and plastic trash can lid
- the frame – left over 2x4 and 2x6 timber
Parts Creation
Once I had a plan for what I could buy, scavenge, or build, I got all of my pieces collected into the shop. There were a few sub parts that I would have to create from scratch prior to assembly though.
Plucker Wheel
I used a bandsaw to create my wheels. If you don't have a bandsaw you could also use a sabre saw or similar tool to cut a circle out. You might also be able to purchase a round piece of plywood from your local home store (not sure if will be the right size though).
Both the plucker wheel and the drive wheel have something in common. They are round and made out of thick heavy duty plywood. When I say thick I mean about 3/4" plywood. And by heavy duty I mean get something with as many layers in it as you can. With each layer the strands of the wood and turned perpendicular to the next. This lends strength to the finished product and will allow your wheels to last longer.
To make the wheel out of ply wood I created a simple jig. To do this get a piece of flat stock timber. I used a 3-4' long 2x4" as it is pretty strong and won't flex as I cut my wheel. A 1x4 would probably do the job too. I drilled a 1/2" hole in one end as that was the size of the axle I would be working with. I clamped the board to my band saw with the hole at exactly half the distance away from the blade as my wheel would be wide. If your wheel is 22" in diameter, then you would want the center of the hole 11" away from the saw blade. I also put a second board on the other side of the blade to help stabilize the wheel as I cut it.
In my case the plucker wheel needed to fit inside the bottom of a blue barrel (each barrel is different so measure the width of yours). I decided to make my wheel 2" smaller than the bottom diameter of the barrel. This will allow the water and feathers to fall below the plucker plate and out through the bottom…more on that later. My barrel is 24" wide. I am making a wheel that is 22" in diameter.
With the board clamped to the band saw, with the hole 11" away from the blade, insert the steel axle you bought (or some sort of dowel to act as an axle) into the hole.
Then you need to prep the piece of plywood you plan to use as the wheel by getting it into rough size and shape to be refined by the bandsaw. Cut the sheet of wood down to a square that is 2" wider than your final circle. Locate the center of this square by drawing a line from corner diagonally to the opposing corner. Drawn another line from the other corners. This should locate the center of your square. Drill a 1/2" hole where X marks the spot. Insert a dowel, pencil, pen, nail, etc. into the hole. Tie a string to the dowel in the center of your board. Then tie a string to an actual pen or pencil 12" from the center. Use the string to keep your distance by keeping the string tight. Draw a cirlce around the board. Then cut the triangle off the board so that you have a rough stop sign shape.
Now take the board that is to be your wheel over to your circle jig on the band saw. Set the wheel, hole first, onto the axle in your jig. You can now start to turn your wheel on the jig while the saw is running. You should find that this cuts a perfectly round wheel that won't need much tuning later.
I used the plucker wheel finger plate to draw out my rough circle. What I described above is probably easier!
Plucker Wheel Finger Plate
The plucker fingers are made in such a way that they insert into a thin walled plucker and "snap" into place. As my plucker wheel was to be made out of 3/4" plywood I knew that the fingers wouldn't do any sort of snapping into place. For that reason I had to create a secondary plate to hole my fingers up that would attach to the actual sturdy wheel. I looked around for something thin enough, semi water proof (as ply wood certainly isn't), and about the right diameter.
I took a large Roughneck trash can lid and cut it to the right size and shape. Then I located the center of the lid. Drilled a 1/2" hole into it where my axle would go. Then threw it onto a similar jig as described above. And cut a better circle on the band saw.
I then did some rough positioning of the 3/4" holes where the plucker fingers would go. From the center I put a finger every 1.5" or so all the way out to the edge. Be careful not to position your finger holes so close together that they weaken their finger neighbors.
Here is a picture showing the 4 lines of holes that were originally drilled. These were evenly spaced except on the outer edge where I was concerned about weakening the edge of the lid.
I then filled in the open field areas with a few more holes.
Then came the inserting of the plucker fingers. Word to the wise – use gloves when doing this. By the time this project was done I had three mega blisters on my hands! Insert the small end into the lid. Then wiggle and pull them at the same time. Back and forth. Until they snap into place. If you don't have much hand strenght a pair of vice grips or channel locks might be a good companion.
You will see on some pluckers that they keep two or three fingers pointing down. This is to toss out the feathers that might get trapped and build up under the plucker wheel. I didn't do this due to my thick plucker board. But…I also found that this wasn't required as we had no build up or feather blockage issues even after doing the 100 birds.
Now we can attach the plastic finger plate to the wooden plucker base. I did this by putting a 1/4" bolt through in between each outer finger. Put the finger plate and the wooden wheel together. Then run the axle through it to ensure that they stay in proper alignment. Then drill a 1/4" hole through the two plates. Remember this order, bolt, washer, plastic lid, spacer, wood, washer, nut. Run your 1/4" bolt through a washer. Then the hole. Insert a 1/4" plastic spacer between the plastic lid and the wood. Run the bolt through the spacer. Then into the wood. Add another washer. Then do a loose finger tightening of the nut on that bolt. Rinse and repeat. Drill another hole. Bolt it. Etc.
Drive Wheel
The drive wheel is largely identical to the creation of your plucker wheel. In this case, its size is directly dependent on the speed of your motor. Most motors that you will get will be in the range of 1700 RPMs…give or take. You will need to see what size drive pulley is connected to your motor. But you pretty much want to get a 10:1 reduction from the small pulley on the motor to the large drive wheel you are creating. In most cases a 16" wheel is what is needed to achieve this.
Keep in mind that if your plucker wheel is too slow it won't do its job. If it is too fast…it will do its job to well and remove the skin of the bird. Shoot for 125RPM give or take.
Once you have a round 16" wheel with a 1/2" hole in the center we have to do something special to make it a pulley wheel. A V-Groove pulley is what is needed to work with standard belt drive systems. I have seen people get the groove cut in several different ways.
- Cut the groove on a table saw using a similar jig to the one we used to make round wheels
- Cut the groove on a lathe where the wheel is mounted to a home made bench lathe and cut with standard chisels
- Cut the groove on a router table
I ended up cutting my groove with router table. I used a channel cutting bit first to get the flat bottom part of the groove cut. This first cut goes down the center of the wheel. Then I moved a bit that cuts a 45 degree edge. I lined the wheel up to take the meat off of one size of the channel. Then flipped the wheel to angle down the other corner. This went way better than I thought it would. And it worked on the first pass! Make sure that your router table is positioned tightly so that nothing moves as you turn the wheel on the table.
Wheel Mounting Plates
I may scare some of you with this next step as it requires some metal work. I needed to create a plate that I could attach to my plucker and drive wheels that would then allow me to attach the wheels to the axle. To do this I took some 1" flat stock that was about 3/16" thick. I intended to cut them to about 8" in length. But don't cut them until your drill the holes. The bigger the stock is the easier it is to work with. I located the center 1/2" hole that the axle would go through at 4" in. I then cut 4 1/4" holes an inch away from the center hole, and 3 inches away from the center hole. I did this on my drill press, but any drill with the stock clamped to something should work. Remember to lubricate your bit so that they don't get worn down to quickly.
Then I cut the stock to length. And ground down the burs left behind from the drilling and cutting.
Next I took one of the steel collars and positioned it on the plate. I slide the plate onto the axle to ensure proper alignment between the collar and the plate. And then I placed some 90 degree magnets below the plate to get the plate aligned to the axle appropriately. This way when the plate spins it won't wobble up and down.
Don't pay attention to the grinding on the axle. This was spare stock I had so that I won't potentially splatter the axle.
With everything properly positioned I tacked the collar in place. And then finished the weld all the way around the collar to the plate.
I made two of these. One for the plucker plate. And one for the drive plate.
I then inserted the axle into the wheel. Aligned the mounting plate on the axle and slid it up to the wheel. Marked the 4 1/4" holes into the wooden wheels. Make sure that the mounting plate goes perpendicular to the grain of the wood for strength. Then drill the holes. And finally pass some 1/4" bolts through the holes and board. Make sure to use washers on both sides. Then lock a nut down to attach the wheel to the plate. Then you can snugly tighten the set screw in the collar onto the axle.
With the wheel tightened onto the axle you can put a bearing on either end of your shaft and set the axle on a flat surface. The wheel can hang off of one edge. Give it a test spin to ensure that the wheel doesn't wobble too much (doesn't have to be totally perfect) and that your hole is fairly well centered so that the wheel doesn't go up and down as it spins.
General Assembly
With our plucker plate, plucker wheel, and drive pulley fabricated we can turn to the general construction of the plucker.
Barrel Prep
The next step is to prep your barrel. I cut 1/3 of my barrel off. It was conveniently marked with some ribbing. This would give me the 4 space I needed at the bottom for feathers and water to espace and plenty of room at the top for tumbling birds. Also, a side benefit later realized, there is a great place inside that rib that my shower head would fit into perfectly. Start by drilling a 1/2" hole just above the ribbing (or a third of the way down the barrel) that you can get a sabre saw into (or a reciprocating saw into).
Then follow the line and cut all the way around the barrel. You may want to do a better job of cleaning out the inside of the barrel before cutting the hole.
Next, drill a 3/4" hole in the center of the bottom of the barrel. This is where your axle will pass through. The 3/4" will give you some wiggle room later.
Then cut a 3" by 8" square hole opposite the handle that is usually on the bottom of the barrel. I forgot to get a pic of this so having to jump ahead a bit to show you.
Then drill several 3/4" holes in the barrel for fingers. You can see the pattern best from the finished picture here. I marked 8 lines every 45 degrees. On those lines I drilled 5 holes equally spaced. The important part is where you start your holes. You want the plucker plate to be 4" up from the bottom. Then the plucker fingers are another 3.5-4" tall. So my first hole was drilled at about the 8" mark from the bottom. Then every 1.5" after that I drilled another hole for 5 holes. Then in between those spacings I modified the straight line pattern. I added two fingers at the 10" (ish) mark side by side. Then I added two more above them in a straight line. They are next to the original line of fingers at position 3 and 4.
Note: the very bottom line of fingers was added after we started processing as the birds were small and were falling between the plucker plate and the barrel. During the build I added 2 more fingers, the 2nd finger hole up (about 10" up). Then betwen those I added two more vertical holes. Those 4 were planned. The one below them wasn't. I will now also add more around that bottom ring to keep the birds in. This is only needed for smaller birds…which isn't usually the case.
Frame Assembly
Next I needed to build the frame. I was in a bit of a pinch for time at this point. So I didn't take as many pictures as I would have liked…nor did I jot down the measurements. If you are interested I can go get them and add them back in here.
I will mention that the frame is taller than the barrel as the barrel sits in the frame on a shelf. I wanted to give myself plenty of room for the drive wheel adjustment. But I also wanted to be sure that the barrel sat high enough on the frame to be able to drain into a square bucket to catch the water and feathers. Notice in the image above that there is a great deal of space from the hole in the bottom of the barrel to the ground. At least as tall as a home depot bucket!
The primary square frame needs to sit snugly around the barrel. For that reason it is a 24"x24" square. The barrel has two 2x4" sitting under it to support the weight of the barrel and however many birds you choose to process at once. You can do 4-5 birds at a time I would imagine.
The only other measurement that is truly important is the distance from the center of your axle to the face that your motor rides on and the length of the vbelt you purchase. In order to not have to use a belt tensioner (something I don't yet use), you need to make sure that your belt can get around your drive wheel and the wheel on the motor and be somewhat snug. You can shim this to some degree at the motor…but not too much!
Everything was glued and nailed. I would have preferred to glue and screw but time was not on my side.
Once the primary frame was together I needed to measure the bearing boards into place. There were three boards with bearings in them. The first one sat under the barrel with the bearing facing up (sitting just under the barrel). This bearing just sits in place and is press fit into the hole. To do this I drilled a 1-1/8" hole with a space bit just deep enough for the bearing to sit snugly in place. I finished the hole with a 3/4" spade bit. This gives the axle shaft plenty of room to not rub wood.
The next bearing board goes just under that one. This time with the bearing hole facing the ground. I used a collar attached to the axle shaft to keep the bearing in place for this one.
And the final bearing board goes at the bottom to help keep the pull on the axle from the drive pulley under control. You can see a collar just under the drive pulley attached to the bottom of the axle.
Motor Mounting
My motor came off of a metal band saw I had in the shop. But you can get them from harbor freight or northern tool for pretty cheap if you have to buy one. Each motor will be different. But get at least a 1/2 horse power motor or better. They are generally in the 1700 rpm range. My motor came with a small vbelt pulley attached to it. If yours doesn't have a small pulley on it you will have to get that separately. Where ever you get the motor will have these pulleys available.
With the frame put together you will need to do a dry assembly on your axle with the drive pulley mounted. Then you can determine if your motor mount will attach to the front of the frame, or if it will need a bit of jiggering to get the belt pulled just right. Once you determine where to mount the board for the motor mount, you can drill holes in the board to fit your motor's hole pattern. Glue and screw this board to the frame to make sure it can take the constant wobble from the motor.
Once it is dry you can mount the motor to the frame and do a dry fit for the belt.
Plucker Axle Assembly
With the motor roughed into place we can now focus on putting it all together. Put your barrel into the frame. Then put all the pieces you need in the right place. There is one bearing hole under the barrel. Put the bearing in place. Then there is another bearing in the next board. And a bearing in the bottom board. There is a collar located just under the second bearing to keep the axle from raising up. There is a collar just above the bottom bearing to keep the axle from dropping down. Between the two collars is where your drive pulley sits.
Don't forget to put your drive pulley WITH THE BELT AROUND IT in place before inserting the axle. Yes…I assembled the whole thing for a dry fit…then took it apart because I forget about the belt.
Put your drive pulley in place. Put the belt around the drive pulley. Insert your axle through all the proper holes. Let me go draw up a graphic showing this real quick…
You should be able to achieve a dry run at this point! Plug your motor in and see how she goes. Hopefully there isn't much wobble.
Wheels Mounted
Mounting the wheels is pretty easy. Get two threaded rods that are longer than your plucker is wide. A 36" piece should do. Drill a hole at the bottom corners of your frame. Pass the threaded rod through the holes. Then put the following items on in this order: washer, 8" lawn mower wheel, washer, lock nut. Do this on each end of your threaded rod. Then cut the rod to length (as you will likely have some left overs).
This step is up to you. There are three ways to approach this step. 1) Don't paint any of it 2) Paint it all as it sits currently 3) take it apart and then paint just the pieces that need paint.
While it took a lot longer, I opted for the take it apart and just paint what needs it. This is semi-tedious as you have put so much time into this so far. But it really gives you a better quality product!
Take it all apart! Remember what goes where.
Then prime it to keep from having to use too much paint. Non-primed wood soaks up your paint quite a bit. I went with red…because I love red! Let it dry according to the directions before putting it all back together.
Once it is dry you can reassemble the plucker.
This is another step that is entirely up to you. Technically the plucker works currently as is. Plug the motor in and go. I chose to take it a step further and add a conviniently located water proof switch. And after having used this device on processing day I am glad I had it there. I actually had a kid run this station. And pulling a plug in and out of a switch close to a wet station sounds like a bad idea to me!
To get started. locate where you would like to place the switch box and then mount it.
Then determine how you would like to route the power cable from the motor to the switch location. You want the power cord to get to the switch box and then have about 8" of play in it for final wire up. Use u-shaped nails or appropriate cable strapping to attach the wire to your frame. Then run another piece of wire (I used outdoor romex style cable) from the switch box back down and out the bottom of the plucker. Tack that cable along the inside of the frame, down to the ground, and out. Then you can wire up a switch.
With the switch wired in you can place the water proof switch plate on the box over the switch. And then reattach the plug end back on your cable. Plug it in, then switch it on, and verify that everything works as expected. You can see the final product here.
Shower Head
A shower head around the inside of the plucker is another nice to have. Most people just use a hose nozzle to take care of their spray down while the chickens are being plucked.
I chose to have the shower ring to be able to just turn the plucker on, and have it work without added steps.
To do this, I got some 3/4" pex which is a flexible plastic pipe, and bent it around the inside of the lip of the plucker barrel. I connected the two ends of the pipe together with a T connector. From the T I connected to a 90 degree elbow. From the elbow I connected to a 3/4" pex to 3/4" pvc connector. I then added a 3/4" ball valve so that I could turn the water entirely on or off…as well as control the flow of the water in the shower head. Then I connected a standard garden hose to 3/4" pvc connector so that I could hook the plucker up to any hose I had on hand.
With the shower head all plumbed up, gluing each of the PVC connectors appropriately, I then turned to drilling holes to let the water through. I drilled an 1/8" hole every two inches all the way around the shower hoop with the hole pointing down and towards the center of the barrel.
We connected a hose to the hoop and turned it on. It was awesome! It was a perfect continuous flow shower that would wash the birds and the barrel.
To mount this to the barrel I had to make a 1" x 1" notch in the top of the barrel in one of the corners. In the corner you will see that there is enough room for the plumbing to run. I then drilled 1/4" holes in the corners of the barrel (look at the pic below) and then zip tied the hoop to the barrel. I did 2 zip ties around the plumbing connection.
Thanks to the flexibility of the pex connectors the ball valve and hose connection are easy to work with as the pex connectors swivel even after connected!
Feather Catch Bucket
The final thing to build that helps with the plucking process is the feather and water catch bucket. Instead of letting the water and feathers go where ever, we chose to create a double bucket system. One big square tub that butts right up to the plucker to catch what ever comes out of the hole at the bottom of the barrel. And another smaller bucket inside of that that has hundreds (literally) of 1/16" holes in it to catch the feathers but let the water pass. And the big outer bucket was then plumbed into our outdoor kitchen to drain the water off.
The idea was sound.
However, I need to add a chute from the barrel hole to the bucket to insure that everything makes it to the bucket. You can see that some feathers are flung about at the top of this picture. Also, the water didn't drain fast enough so the fairly weak sided blue bucket let the water out out over the top. And the inner bucket didn't stay put…so the feather sort of went where ever – further clogging the drain. I will be refining how this works for our next processing day.
The Plucker in Action
The plucker was certainly one of the favorite features of the processing day. Everyone was in awe of the plucker plucking all the feathers off in 15-20 seconds. To get it running you turn the power on, then the water on. Let it get up to speed. Then dropped some freshly scalded birds in it. POOF…off come the feathers.
With a proper scald duration using the right temperature water the plucker can be a great tool for speeding up your processing. In our case we had some issue around the fact that our birds were very small…and black! Black birds need a perfect pluck…because you see every MISSED feather.
Caution: in addition to a quick scald, then a pluck, the camera wanders to other stations too…
What to do differently
- Chute at the bottom of the barrel to direct the flow and feathers
- More stable water bucket/feather bucket/better drain
- More fingers added to the bottom of the barrel for smaller bird processing
- projects


text:
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text: Just a few days ago, my Wii stopped reading discs mid-use, and has since had much difficulty reading anything. I originally thought the laser was either smudged or broken, so I opened it up to attempt a cleaning. Turns out the laser was fine. When a disc is inserted, it will go into position, but will never start spinning. After a little bit of fidgeting, I managed to get it to a put where it would spin in very short intervals, but still nowhere near usable. A bit more fidgeting and it was restored to full use, but then developed the same issue again shortly after. So, I assume that the motor is either dead or dying. Is replacing it difficult, or should there be anything else I should do to check/fix it? Another issue is why it is happening... I can only think of a few possibilities. A) Age. It was a launch wii, so maybe it's just reached the end of its life? B) Stress. About a month or two ago, I added a small "bumper" of electrical tape to the top part of the case. The purpose was for it to press down a bit more on the drive cage and kill a terrible noise it gave off when spinning up. I don't know if this caused an increase strain on the motor or not, but I can't think of any other cosmetic changes that would have an effect. C) Contamination? Mayhaps there is some goop or something that's preventing the motor from getting enough torque to spin the discs? This one is pretty doubtful, but not entirely impossible. Any suggestions on what to do with it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. ~Omnigamer


text:
Tag "fish"
Deformed fish is served at Sushi bar
Mr. Homma [Twitter], a Japanese fisher in South Chiba talked on a Ustream radio on 6/2/2012. Video streaming by Ustream He has been fishing offshore of Chiba
Cesium from tuna fished in west coast of America
On 5/28/2012, researching team of Stanford university published cesium was measured from Bluefin tuna of American west coast on Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences of the United States
18,700 Bq/Kg from fish in Iidate mura
Following up this article..Fukushima local gov is dumping radioactive mud from decontamination to Abukuma river 18,700 Bq/Kg of cesium was measured from trout caught in Niidagawa of Iidate mura, Fukushima
4,500 Bq/Kg from flatfish
Fisheries agency measured 4,500 Bq/Kg from flatfish, and 1,920 Bq/Kg from rockfish last december. The data is already removed from their website. Also, on 3/21/2012, Prof. Ishimaru from Tokyo
Ibaraki local gov rebelled against JP gov about fishery product safety limit
Ibaraki local government and Ibaraki fisherman's union will ban shipping fishery products which they measured more than 50 Bq/kg after April. Currently, Japanese government set the safety limit of
Worsened situation of Japanese sea food
Ministry for Food, Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries of Korea announced contaminated Japanese sea food is increasing. From last April to the end of 2011, they measured cesium from 21
Tama river fish contaminated
Having the opening season for trout and char fishing in March, each local government is measuring radiation level of fish. As the result, it turned out that fish in Tama
Conjoint fish
Conjoint larval fish of salmon is found in Fukuchi shi Kyoto Mr. Miyamoto Tadao (67) received 50 eggs from environmental symposium of Yura river on 1/7/2012. He raised them with
Fisheries Agency lifted the restriction of bonito fishing only by checking 2 fish
Fisheries Agency allowed them to fish bonito in Fukushima offshore except for 30 km area. The day before they lifted the restriction, they allowed them to fish in 530 km
Oyster in North Japan grow as double as average
Kesennuma Miyagi, where got the worst damage of Tsunami in 311, restarted oyster farm but the shells grow unusually fast. They reopened the farm last June after having the port


text:
My loveliest friend Heather requested a blog. Being the entirely reasonable person she is, she gave me until Wednesday to write it. However, being the entirely too busy person that I am, I don't have tomorrow night or Wednesday night to write it. So tonight it is.
Unfortunately, I cannot for the life of me think of an interesting thing to make a list about. So this will be a "favorite things" post. Also unfortunately, I can't afford to get everyone a KitchenAid Mixer or a trip to the Bahamas*, so you'll just have to read about my favorite things!
1. Puppies! I met my uncle's puppy, Bedlam von Chaos, this weekend. He's a weimaraner. And he's adorable. And did I mention his name? Bedlam. What a great name for a pup! We spent a rainy Saturday afternoon napping and reading on the couch and, let me tell ya, if that's not heaven then I'm not sure what is. (Also, a google image search of "weimaraner puppies" produces the cutest page of results on the entire internet. In fact, I did it for you. Click here for awwwws.)
2. Girl Scout Cookies! I finally got my Girl Scout cookies in the mail and the first thing I did was devour a box of Caramel Delights (formerly known as Samoas). Then I put my Thin Mints in the freezer, as that is the ONLY way to enjoy Thin Mints.
3. Sisters! I drove back to Monmouth this past weekend with Paige for the 118th birthday of our beloved fraternity, Alpha Xi Delta. While there, I was able to see my lovely sisters and spend the weekend celebrating Founders Day.
4. New music! Over the past week I've discovered Brooke Fraser (LOVE) and Lupe Fiasco (LOVE). Also over the past week, Lady Gaga released Judas, which is a really awesome new song.
That's all for now!
*I really wish my favorite things right now could be KitchenAid Mixers and trips the Bahamas. I just got my car insurance bill, so my favorite things next week will probably be cereal and ramen noodles.


text:
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Are You There God? It's Me, Margaret. The Catcher in the Rye. Bridge to Terabithia. Such were the scandalous teen fiction titles in the late 20th century. Though I read all of them as an adolescent in the 1980s, it wasn't without firm counsel and concerned follow-up from adults. Later, when I took a college-level children's literature course, the darkest book we read was I Am the Cheese, which deals with a teenage boy's psychiatric visits, amnesia and abusive past.
Obviously, these books can have some tough themes in them. Teens would grapple with issues such as anger, angst, sexual maturity, depression, obsession and death within their pages. By today's standards, though, these stories seem like kid's stuff.
In the 21st century, the macabre seems to rule much young adult fiction. It's as if authors have taken these issues (and many more) and put them on narrative steroids.
Today's titles include the futuristic, apocalyptic Hunger Games series (in which teens are forced to fight one another to the death), Wintergirls (about the physical and psychological horrors of eating disorders), and Right Behind You (in which a boy sets a 7-year-old neighbor on fire and spends years in a facility for the criminally insane). Graphic, sometimes otherworldly descriptions of pain, torture, hallucinations and delusions, cutting, sex and sexual abuse are now routine reading. And when I read passages of such stories or hear friends who teach high school comment on them, I'm always a little taken aback by how morbid young adult fiction is today. I'm not the only one.
Wall Street Journal columnist Meghan Cox Gurdon says in her recent article Darkness Too Visible:
How dark is contemporary fiction for teens? Darker than when you were a child, my dear: So dark that kidnapping and pederasty and incest and brutal beatings are now just part of the run of things in novels directed, broadly speaking, at children from the ages of 12 to 18.
Pathologies that went undescribed in print 40 years ago, that were still only sparingly outlined a generation ago, are now spelled out in stomach-clenching detail. Profanity that would get a song or movie branded with a parental warning is, in young-adult novels, so commonplace that most reviewers do not even remark upon it.
If books show us the world, teen fiction can be like a hall of fun-house mirrors, constantly reflecting back hideously distorted portrayals of what life is. There are of course exceptions, but a careless young reader—or one who seeks out depravity—will find himself surrounded by images not of joy or beauty but of damage, brutality and losses of the most horrendous kinds.
Believe it or not, many of these books do have redemptive value. Many are insightful, well-written page-turners. Many can help to lead teens through their own dark years—if they don't become mired in the plot and they have a wise adult to guide them through snarling themes. And, as Gurdon astutely notes, "Reading about homicide doesn't turn a man into a murderer; reading about cheating on exams won't make a kid break the honor code."
Still, I can't help wondering how much any of us—teen, middle-aged or elderly—should consume such stories. How does reading grotesque descriptions of gang rape, drug abuse, cutting and assault in profanity-laden prose help anyone to dwell on what is true, noble, lovely and admirable? How are these accounts truly excellent and praiseworthy, even if many do end on a hopeful note despite the horrors they portray? While even the Bible contains images of brutality and sex, the biblical narrative is as much about what's left out of the comparatively spare descriptions as what's left in. Most young adult literature today doesn't show that restraint (and don't even get me started on mainstream fiction). I just wonder how many impressionable minds are being negatively affected in the name of literary entertainment.


text:
More knowledge about Harmful Chemicals In Nail Polish has been published by the author of this blog. Home, residence or business office is among the most locations where we very often use to expend time in our life. its look should make us feel at home. Occasionally, we might have to slightly alter the design, colour, or even equipment. We need a new concept for it and one of them is Harmful Chemicals In Nail Polish.
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So happy to find this in my old files😃 This saved us when we were in the pits of despair😖 In 1987 Jerry had lost his job and we were being sued . Pain and heartache everyday 💔. I prayed, he prayed, our kids prayed. A friend sent me these words of Truth. Jerry was […]
Challenging Men and Women to Find Their Identity in Christ
About Us
Holly and I have been involved with ministry for over 40 years. People say it in different ways, but they all say the same thing. They have feelings of insecurity, inadequacy, isolation, loneliness and fear washed with anxiety.
Jerry teaches and encourages men through the study and application of the scriptures. He also makes laughter a component of his teaching and coaching sessions. The end goal is to see lives transformed and connected to the person of Jesus Christ.
Jerry and Holly Leachman speak to organizations throughout the world ministering to kids, business people, working men and women, athletes, politicians, journalists, teachers, addicts, doctors, and even other ministers.
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text:
By Angela Manners
Here is the story of how we began our days of homebrewing with Aeropress… It all started with a broken handle (portafilter) on my espresso machine and a loaned Nespresso. You can imagine the major disaster it was when our espresso machine's portafilter cracked. I won't lie when I say that tears were shed! There was a desperate hunt for our old Nespresso machine. Thankfully, we had loaned it out to a friend and forgot about it. If my Nespresso had been there, my affair with Aeropress might not have happened.
Reluctant to ask for the return of our Nespresso and not reeeeeeaaally wanting to get back into the easy, low mess, semi-decent coffee it gave us, I decided that we would buy a new machine. This was because the part to our cheap and cheerful Krups was on back order and they didn't know when it would come in. Five years ago, I had bought the machine including grinder for a sum of $350 so I figured it could be time for me to upgrade. Lucky for me, the Singapore Coffee Festival was on that very day and I had tickets to go. It seemed like the heavens were telling me something.
The Singapore Coffee Festival was a wonderland of everything I love most about this elixir. I immediately fell in love, on sight, with the Rocket espresso machine. It, however, was cost prohibitive – over $3k! More tears until I saw the Aeropress, a gadget that I had noticed popping up ever so often on Instagram. It had been touted as a "travel" espresso machine so I thought it just might get me out of the bind I was in until the Krups part could be replaced. The retailer was asking $65… What?! That much for a bit of plastic! Little did I know the magic it could do.
I ended up walking away from the Festival empty handed and disappointed. To cheer myself up, I decided to go collect a fountain pen that I had ordered from Grouphunt.sg (usually a $50 Lamy pen, it was $30 on Grouphunt). While there, I got to talking to Joel, the super friendly co-founder of Grouphunt who asked me what I had been up to that day. Of course, I told him all about my dramas with the espresso machine, the Coffee Festival and how I should have bought that Aeropress… Joel's next words were music to my ears! "Oh, we have that here, would you like one?" I could not believe it! So I left with my Aeropress and even better, I only paid $59 which is what it was selling for on the Grouphunt Marketplace.
Apologies for the long-winded tale of how I got my Aeropress. On to what you really want to know!
The Aeropress®
Aeropress uses the immersion process but it's turbo, as in super speedy. It's really simple to use and the simplest manual gadget I've tried that gets you close to an espresso (close, I say). This worked for me back then because I was still drinking lattes. However, it is also very flexible and allows you to brew a beautiful black coffee as well. If you want a truer espresso-style coffe, try a Moka pot. Literally meaning "small coffee machine" from the Italian translation, this was the first gadget that I had my first "real" espresso from (Read Novice Guide: Instant Coffee vs Homebrew).
That being said, it can also be tricky to perfect. For a while there, I was only slighly enjoying my coffee experience until I talked to Paul at Perk Coffee. Read his general tips in our first Novice Guide: Mr Clever Dripper, under the second subtitle Pro Tips. Once I understood those few basics, my technique improved dramatically.
I also did some research online and came across the inverted method used by all the Aeropress barista winners and experts. For this Novice Guide, I'm only going to show you the inverted method because, for me, it makes a better brew. I have no idea why and I'm really not trying to be all tricky about it, but it just tastes better to me. I recommend that you try it out both ways though.
The beauty of Aeropress is that it all comes in a neat, little, portable pack. This is why people say it's perfect for travelling. Everything you need, apart from coffee and water, comes in the bag. The instructions are also really easy to follow but prepare yourself for some trial and error to acheive the brew that you want. If you get your basics right – coffee/water ratio, grind size and temperature (as explained in our first Novice Guide: Mr Clever Dripper) – you will be just fine.
Again,we have provided Pro Tips for the Aeropress from Perk Coffee to help you perfect your technique. This can be found at the end of this article.
From left, clockwise: Coffee beans, Aeropress plunger, chamber, Keep Cup, filter cap, scoop, stirrer, funnel, filters in filter holder.
What you'll need:
An Aeropress (and all its bits)
There is currently an interest check on at Grouphunt.sg. Head over and check it out. To receive a $5 credit when you sign up, use this link: Vanilla Beige $5 Credit. Vanilla Beige will also receive a $5 credit so thank you for supporting us! Once you've signed up, just search for Aeropress. You can also follow this link here.
A kettle
Aeropress paper filter
(I believe they give you a set of 100 with the standard Aeropress kit). I've already joined the hunt for the reusable Aeropress filter but there is another round of interest check happening now here.
Coffee beans or ground coffee (depends if you have a grinder at home)
This is how you do it:
Firstly, set up your Aeropress, inverted. To do this:
Place the plunger into the barrel, rubber tip in.
Stand the Aeropress on the other end of the plunger
Insert the funnel (the funnel is used to ensure that coffee grounds don't fall into the screw area for the filter cap).
Once you've done this, you can brew!
- Boil the kettle.
- Wait for a minute to let the water cool to an ideal temperature (remember to open the lid).
- While you're waiting, freshly grind your beans. You will only need enough to fill the Aeropress scoop provided once or twice.
- Place the filter paper in the filter and then wash it to remove the papery flavour.
- Add in one scoop of coffee grounds through the funnel (more if you'd like a stronger brew).
- Add water up to between the two and three marks. You can increase or decrease this depending on how strong or light the brew is preferred. I find the one scoop and one and a half measure is good for a espresso-like, strong brew.
- Give the liquid inside a stir with the stirrer. Stir for about 10 seconds.
- Twist on the filter cap with filter inside (pre-washed). ![](https://i1.wp.com/www.vanillabeige.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/Aeropress-Filter-865x500.jpg?resize=865%2C500)The filter should be placed inside the filter against the holes.
- Place your mug upside down on the Aeropress.
- Grab the cup in one hand and plunger of the Aeropress in another hand then quickly turn it over so the cup on the bottom. Place the stack on the countertop with the cup at the bottom.
- Making sure the stack is steady, press down on the plunger to dispel all the liquid into your cup. It should take a bit of pressure but do this gently. The total press time can be five seconds or more and it is normal to feel some resistance. A wimp like me has to press rather hard to push it down.
- Keep pressing until the rubber end of the plunger reaches grounds. There is no need to compact the grains inside the Aeropress.
- Add water or milk to your liking and savour your brew!
The setup of the Aeropress should look like this with the filter paper washed.
Because you're inverted, the water should come up to halfway between the 2 and 3 marks.
Stir the liquid for 10 seconds. This allows the water to saturate all the grounds and extract all the flavour. You can see that I've actually added more water as I'm brewing for a long black.
Looks a bit wobbly but trust me, it will be just fine.
When finished with your press, the Aeropress should look like this and the coffee should be in the cup.
PRO TIPS (from Perk Coffee):
Grind size: Fine to medium as a start but there is room to try different grind sizes for different kinds of coffee.
Recommended beans to try: Try an Ethiopian bean like our Aramo because this method highlights complex flavours. Since the Aramo is a very flavourful coffee, it suits the Aeropress.
Top tips: The Aeropress is the most versatile of implements so experiment to see what you like.
The pressure of the Aeropress enables further extraction of flavour from the coffee so pick a bean that is full of flavour.
Steep it for less time. Even 10 to 15 seconds will do.


text:
Question about HP LaserJet P2015 Printer
Using MS Vista. Intermitent error code when printing.
PCL XL error
Subsystem: KERNEL
Error: IllegalOperatorSequence
Operator: EndChar
Position: 23
Posted by Jhminton on
"pcl xl error subsytem kernal illegal operator sequence operator end char position 23".
Error when printing
We use a Toshiba Techra 8100 laptop with Windows XP Professional Operating System. We have a HP4200 Laser Printer and a HP690 connected to its parallel port via a switch box. this arrangement workd fine until we decided to install a Canon Image Class MF4140 Multi-Function Laser Printer through the USB port. The Canon works fine as a printer but we now get an error message:
PCL XL error
Subsystem: KERNEL
Error: IllegalOperatorSequence
Operator: EndChar
Position: 7
We think this has something to do with the LPT1 USB (ECP Printer)assignment.
Same error here. Receive error when printing a mail merge, will work fine for say 30 or so but will then come up with the error. Otherwise it seems fine.
PCL XL ERROR, Kernel, Illegal Operator Sequence, EndChar, 25
HP 4250TN intermittent, error, no observable pattern
I have the following problem
subsystem: IllegalTag
please help
PCL XL error
Error : Illegal Tag
Operator : 0x1b
Position : 6
PCL XL error
Subsystem: KERNEL
Error: IllegalOperatorSequence
Operator: EndChar
Position: 23
Need some help
Product: HP laserjet P2015 serie
OS windows Vista
I am having the same problems although the customer that uses Vista won't print at all. I found your instructions very helpful although we do not use the ports listed. We are using a TCP/IP port and the port will not configure properly to allow it to be used. Please help
Trying to print labels, but get the PCL XL error message:
Subsystem: Kernel
Error: IllegalOperatorSequence
Operator: EndChar
Position: 24
PCL XL error
Subsystem: KERNEL
Error: IllegalOperatorSequence
Operator: EndChar
Position: 23
Need some help
Product: HP laserjet P2015 serie
OS windows Vista
Having the same problem
PCL XL error
Subsystem KERNAL
Error: Illegaloperatorsequence
Operator : Endchar
Position : 27
Using Vista, but have a laserjet P3005N. will solution below about installing an old driver also help me?
Solution #5 ... ummmmm why don't you read and think things through before you type?
HP said "From your e-mail, we understand that you are unable to install the HP LaserJet P2015 printer software on your Windows Vista, notice an error: "extended attributes are inconsistent"."
This was not the original query.
pcl xl error position 1022
pcl xl error position 1022
error for printing PDF document
pcl XL error subsystem KERNEL File no 8958
Here are the steps to remedy the problem:
1.right click the printer and go to the properties.
2.click on the advanced tab and uncheck 'enabled printing features'
3.click on the general tab and click on 'printing preferences'
4.click on the 'advanced' tab and disable the 'print optimizations'
hopefully it works for you guys.
Posted on Sep 02, 2008
FIXED: PCL XL error when printing to a HP printer
I fixed this problem by installing the KB948046 Hotfix from Microsoft (thanks to Brent Follett from forums11.itrc.hp.com for pointing me in the right direction).
To download and install this hotfix, search for "hotfix KB948046" or go to http://support.microsoft.com/kb/948046 and click on "view and request hotfix downloads".
You will be prompted for an email address, the URL for the hotfix together with a password will be emailed to that address.
Install the hotfix and reboot the system. The problem was fixed for me at this point.
I tried to print before rebooting, but that did not fix the problem, a reboot is essential.
More information:
I encountered this problem on a HP 2605 (laserjet) printer (HP2605) that was shared from a Windows Small Business Server 2003 with Service Pack 2 (SBS SP2).
When printing from networked machines the error was printed out on the printer. After installing the KB/948046 hotfix on the server only and rebooting the server, the problem was fixed.
I also installed other updates on the server before installing the hotfix using Microsoft Update.
For more information visit http://www.brightvisions.co.uk
If you don't have a website yet, visit http://www.set8.net and if you have a website list it on http://www.searchourworld.com
I hope you found this useful and this fix works for you. Happy Hunting!
Posted on May 19, 2009
Dear HP Customer,
Thank you for contacting Hewlett-Packard's Commercial Solutions Center.
From your e-mail, we understand that you are unable to install the HP LaserJet P2015 printer software on your Windows Vista, notice an error: "extended attributes are inconsistent ".
Please note that currently, a complete driver solutions is not available for your product. However, we do have an alternative driver solution that you can conveniently find in Microsoft Windows Vista. This driver will enable your product's basic functions to work and can be used until the full driver solution is available.
We suggest you install the native driver for the HP LaserJet 1320 printer. This driver would be compatible with your printer and support basic printing functionality.
The steps given below will help you in installing the native printer drivers on the computer:
1. Turn on the printer first, and then turn on the computer.
2. Close any screen savers, virus protection programs, or other software programs running on your computer.
3. Click Start, Control Panel and select Printers under Hardware and Sounds in the Control Panel Home window.
4. Click Add New Printer, the Add Printer Wizard appears.
5. Click Add a local printer.
6. Select the Use an existing port check box.
7. In the Use an existing port drop-down list, select LPT1: (Printer Port) and then click Next.
8. Under Manufacturer on the Install the printer driver dialog box, select HP.
9. Under Printers, select the HP LaserJet 1320 driver for the printer and then click Next.
10. In the Printer name text box, type the printer name and then click Next. The printer driver starts to install.
NOTE: The name of the alternate driver displays as the default name. Change this name to the name of your printer, if desired.
11. Complete the installation.
12. In the printer folder, right-click on the name of the printer and then click Properties.
13. Click the Ports tab.
14. Change the port from LPT1 to USB or DOT4.
Try printing a Driver test page to check driver functionality. To do so follow these steps:
1. Click Start, Control Panel and select Printer under Hardware and Sound in the Control Panel Home window.
2. Right the HP LaserJet 1320 printer icon and select Properties. 3. Click on the Print Test Page button.
HP expects to complete the certification process for applicable software soon enough. Solutions will be posted as they become available.
We would like to let you know that HP aspires to provide the most up-to-date information on HP drivers and software. You may visit the following URL to receive e-mail updates from HP when a solution is available.
We regret any inconvenience caused and sincerely appreciate your patience in this regards.
If you have any other questions, please write back to us. We will be glad to assist you.
Once again, thank you for contacting Hewlett-Packard's Commercial Solutions Center.
With Regards,
Michael P
NOTE: Our advice is strictly limited to the question(s) asked and is based on the information provided to us. Problems and solutions may depend on the nature of your system environment and various other parameters that are unknown to HP; therefore, HP cannot assume any responsibility or liability. Please be advised that technical information changes as new data becomes available, therefore, HP recommends that you check back at our technical support web site located at http://www.hp.com/country/us/en/support.html regularly for possible updates. Hewlett-Packard shall not be liable for any direct, indirect, special, incidental or consequential damages in connection with the use of this information.
Posted on Apr 07, 2008
Solution #4 ... ummmmm why do you ask such stupid questions.... this is clearly a driver issue.... Printers require drivers just like all other devices installed in a computer....
Posted on Sep 20, 2008
SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved
Hi there,
Save hours of searching online or wasting money on unnecessary repairs by talking to a 6YA Expert who can help you resolve this issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
Here's a link to this great service
Good luck!
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Printing problem "PCL XL error"
reinstalled driver w- pcl
Posted on Apr 14, 2008
SOURCE: Printing problem "PCL XL error"
Dear Sir
My printer is laserjet 1320
PCL XL error
Subsystem: KERNEL
Error: Illegal Tag
Operator: 0x1b
Position: 6
Pls. This problem solution give me.
Posted on Sep 14, 2008
Tips for a great answer:
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Our vision for you is to grow into the person that God has designed you to be. Our dynamic Small Groups provide an opportunity for us to grow together and fulfill the calling God has on our life to be in community. There are different types of groups that can meet your needs whether it's a men's group, women's group, couple's group, families with children, or a variation of one of these.
Small Groups are led by TCC members who have participated in Small Group Leader training. Some groups choose to meet at the leader's home, while others may rotate meeting at Small Group member homes or meet at a local venue. "Day after day, in the temple courts and from house to house, they never stopped teaching and proclaiming the good news that Jesus is the Christ." Acts 5:42
Small Groups provide the spiritual nourishment necessary to help strengthen our daily walk and realize God's vision for our faith community. We pray together, worship together, fellowship together, study God's word together, laugh together, and even cry together! "If one part suffers, every part suffers with it; if one part is honored, every part rejoices with it. Now you are the body of Christ, and each one of you is a part of it." 1 Corinthians 12:26-27
"Let us not give up meeting together, as some are in the habit of doing, but let us encourage one another…" Hebrews 10:25
If you are interested in learning more about our Small Groups, please stop by Connect Central which is located in the lobby just outside of the church worship center.
Also, feel free to contact:
Tracy Booth, Small Group Coordinator
For a Small Group in your area: Small Group Roster for website 1.26.18


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And just like that....it's December. And the first Wednesday of the month, which means IWSG time! If you're interested in joining the fun or want to know more, visit their website.
Today's question:
As you look back on 2017, with all its successes/failures, if you could backtrack, what would you do differently?Well this question is kind of perfect for what I wanted to write about anyways. If you read last month's post or follow me on Instagram or FB, you likely know that I participated (and completed woop!) in NaNoWriMo this year. I finished out the month with 51,597 words. Is it done? Helllll no. Just as I anticipated, it is a giant mess of a first draft. It's 99 pages of word vomit, no joke. It's definitely not what I want it to be yet, but there are glimmers of it in all that word vomit. It will be raw. It will be real. And it could make you cry, laugh, and likely say "ewwww" more than once. But undoubtedly your next question is the one I kept being asked by anyone I mentioned NaNo too....what am I writing about?
More than once that question caught me off-guard. Not because it's a weird question, duh it's totally obvious. But for some silly reason, I hadn't given a whole lot of thought to the fact that if I told people I was doing this, they'd want to know what I was writing about. Well, I am writing the story of my eating disorder, from its deceptive beginnings to its defeat. Despite my openness about it on this blog and social media, it's not something I actually talk with very many people about.
I didn't realize just how uncomfortable it was to talk about until I told a few people. Weird how it's so much easier for me to write about these things than to say them out loud. Not that it's easy to write about either, but it's a whole lot less easy to talk about it. Guess I'll have to add giving a speech about it to my I-do-NOT-want-to-do-this-so-I-guess-I-have-to-do-it-someday bucket list.
Writing this story has been painful, emotional, and insanely difficult. More than once I wanted to quit because "WHY am I putting myself through this?!" But then I'd remember a few important things. Like that I need to do it. For my fellow eating disordered peeps but also for myself. I can't really explain why, but for some reason it feels like closure for a long open wound. And if something is really hard, maybe that's a good reason to do it.
So as I look back at 2017, I see plenty of successes and failures of course. The recent NaNo experience being freshest in my mind, is a combination of both success and failure. I'm proud because I did it, I actually made myself write my first draft. Something I didn't anticipate actually doing this decade even. But it also feels like a step back because reliving this shitty experience over and over again so I can write it is like violently ripping open that still healing wound. But I know I'm better for it. If I could backtrack, I'd probably think twice about who I told I was participating in NaNo. Or at least mentally prepared myself for saying it out loud more than once. Watching people's looks of surprise, confusion, and sympathy was well...uncomfortable.
There were many other successes and failures this year. Figuring out my gut issues was a whole lot of failure for a long time, but looks like it's coming out as a success finally, yay! Vacationing in Belize, huge success. Continuing to kick ass at work. Always working hard to be a good mom and wife. Making big progress with my depression. Sure there's stuff that could've gone differently, but I prefer not to dwell on that hindsight bullshit. Obviously if you'd known how things would turn out, you'd do them different. But that defeats the purpose of life. We don't know how our lives are going to turn out. All we have is right now. So let's just enjoy right now.
In case I don't make time for another post this month, Happy Holidays my dear reader. You are awesome for being here and reading my ramblings. From the bottom of my heart, thank you.


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Starring in over 100 films so far, Robert De Niro, turns 73 today. Born to painter/poet Virginia Admiral and painter/sculptor Robert De Niro, Sr., 'Bob' grew up in Little Italy, New York City. This is where he got the nickname of Bobby Milk, because of his very pale skin.
De Niro has been nominated for an Academy Award five times and has won twice for his role in The Godfather Part II (1974) and Raging Bull (1980). He couldn't even accept his first Oscar in 1975 due to filming commitments for 1900 (1976). He earned $35,000 for the most outstanding performance of his career in Taxi Driver (1976) whereas his part in Little Fockers (2010) earned him $20 million. How times change…
Bob didn't know he wanted to become an actor until he walked out of the cinema (aged 17) one day and declared to his friends that he was going to be a film actor. He dropped out of his senior year of high school, before joining Stella Adler's Studio of Acting and Lee Strasberg's Actors Studio. He has then been active in the industry since 1963.


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Solid Waste Management Unit
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Expert in Environmental Management, Hazardous Remediation, Wastewater Treatment, Stormwater, GroundwaterThe expert has been involved in the design of biological industrial wastewater treatment plants, and he was a key official in the New York State Department of Environmental Conservation, where he regulated these plants. The expert has been involved in the ... See full profile
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The word 'refugee' conjures up images of desolate camps and tragic, impoverished conditions. As the refugee crisis becomes increasingly pressing, concern grows about how hundreds of thousands of refugees can be housed in specialist camps and how far humanitarian aid resources will stretch. Whilst such aid plays a vital role in the short-term, the provision of aid alone cannot solve the crisis and confining refugees and asylum-seekers to camps means that they are effectively quarantined, unable to integrate into wider society. Isolating refugees in this way is damaging to both the refugees concerned and the host state, creating a cycle of dependency. The only viable way to break this cycle is to empower refugees by strengthening and enforcing the rights they have, under international law, to work within host states.
And Europe's humanitarian crisis
Europe is in a humanitarian crisis. We have never had so many people arrive in Europe fleeing war, repression and fear. Thousands of refugees continue to arrive at EU borders every day. More than 800'000 refugees and migrants have reached Europe so far with over 3'400 people including children having lost their lives making the journey.
Update on Refugee Response: Working on the Frontlines in Calais and near the Syrian Border
The 1965 Indonesian massacre
Burma's Election Promises Continuation of Abuses Against Ethnic Minorities
In a short few days, Burma will go to the polls for a parliamentary elections that have long been heralded as the symbol of change from despotic leadership to a fledging new democracy. It is widely expected that the NLD (the party of Daw Aung San Suu Kyi) will sweep to victory. But will this change anything for the millions of ethnic minorities that have long championed Suu Kyi as the saviour...
5th Nov 2015 - Public Demonstration Calling For End of Genocide Against Rohingya
Whilst Burma waits and is on the cusp of a general election in early November, the world waits with baited breath to see if life improves for the many ethnic groups of Burma who have faced decades of marginalization. The Rohingya, whom the UN has long claimed to be 'one of the most persecuted...
Back to nature: Combatting poverty through indigenous farming methods
As we approach the end of 2015, the year by which the UN had pledged to end poverty, it is deeply concerning to know that there are still 805 million people in the world who have inadequate food supplies, and more than 1.3 billion living in extreme poverty. With the global population set to rise by 2 billion people by 2050, world hunger is an increasingly pressing concern and the search for a solution must be a global priority. While there is no simple answer to the problem of feeding an ever-growing population, there is a great deal we can learn from studying indigenous farming methods in developing countries. Indigenous techniques may hold the key to ensuring food security and, as supporting small holder farms has been recognised as one of the quickest ways to lift over 1 billion over the poverty line, the seemingly basic techniques employed on small-scale farms warrant serious attention.
Saira Viola Interview
With words that beam conviction, she is an acclaimed poet and novelist to whom it seems eloquence comes easily. Not only did Saira Viola pen a special piece for the Rohingya - a community we have worked for extensively, she also lent more of her time to us for an interview in which we discuss everything from her time in Africa, political art and gentrification to her latest crime novel 'Jukebox'.
Langsa Rohingya Refugee Camp Visits by Restless Beings Directors
In the Langsa area of Aceh province in Indonesia, there are currently three main temporary camps for Rohingya refugees and Bangladeshi migrants. Currently the camps are being administered by IOM (International Organisation for Migration).
In Kuala Langsa there are two sections to the camp, one for Rohingya males and one for Bangladeshi migrant males. In total this camp holds 173 people,...
31 Rohingya Refugees Feared To Be Smuggled Into Prostitution in Indonesia
Restless Beings has obtained documentation from State Government meetings in Aceh and Sumatra regions of Indonesia regarding the disappearance of 31 Rohingya women and children since July 25th 2015. The refugees had escaped the camps as they were being relocated by IOM to another camp as a result of a report of sexual harassment in the female camp the day before.
The IOM (Institute of...


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Still warm from the printers, our two latest Short Histories are now available.
Stephen Conway's A Short History of the American Revolutionary War excels in placing the war in a global context including Europe, the Caribbean, the Mediterranean and India. Conway offers a compelling explanation of why Britain lost America, while at the same time, his broader perspective shows that it was a war that the British did not entirely lose, since they won major victories against the Bourbons in 1782 and succeeded in bankrupting France.
Colin Storer's A Short History of the Weimar Republic provides an up-to-date and balanced overview of the troubled years 1919-1933. Storer underlines the first German Republic's achievements without glossing over its defects, presenting a compelling picture of a society in turmoil. Storer's book is a perfect invitation to explore these highly ambivalent times.
more about A Short History of the American Revolutionary War here.
Read a Q+A with Stephen Conway here.
Read more about A Short History of the Weimar Republic here.
Read a Q+A with Colin Storer here.


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We've updated our Top 10 Best Waterfalls of the World List incorporating new impressions and experiences attained from our latest trip to the Greece, Croatia, and Switzerland.
Regarding the new entry on this list, I'm sure for some people, they'll probably be saying, "It's about time!" But again, we have to remind you that we're restricting all of our lists to only waterfalls that we've personally seen. We still believe that you have to experience the waterfalls in person and then measure them against your own library of impressions and experiences from other waterfalls you've been to in order to come up with a truly original and honest list of favorite waterfalls.
Speaking of honest, I couldn't help but notice that there are a bunch of copy cats that like to take this list and claim it as their own. I guess they'll have to update their list given the little shake-up we've done...
By the way, this isn't the only Top 10 List we've updated.
We've also updated our Top 10 Tallest Waterfalls List for Cumulative Height and for Tallest Vertical Leap. Once again, we're uncomfortable with these types of lists claiming to have the "tallest" waterfalls (including our own). And as you'll see on these pages, we have even more cases and evidence to further support this disposition...
Thursday, July 1, 2010
Revamped Top 10 Waterfalls Lists
at 8:20 PM
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Can't see the Full Screen puzzle? Your pop-up blocker probably prevented it from opening.
Click here to relaunch the pop-up.
Still can't get it to work? Please contact us for additional help
Online jigsaw puzzle of a young javelina in the wild.
javelina • peccary • animal • wild
More Random Jigsaws »


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Social networks are finding ways to respond to the growing need for internet marketing tools.
Over the past few years, the online space has been flooded with integrated features and solutions to help businesses communicate with their customers more effectively. Facebook recently added to its repertoire of solutions, introducing a couple of new features to its business pages: Call-to-Action buttons and a Shop and Servicestab. This small guide explains how to take advantage of these new tools.
What are the Challenges for SMEs?
In order to cope with the new shopping habits and expectations of their customers, being present online is a "must" for any business. Social networks foster a large number of users, and are a great way to boost awareness for small and medium sized businesses. Companies can use social networks as a new channel to:
Promote their image – Improve the online visibility to the company.
Built customer relationships – Facilitate dialogue between the brand and its customers or prospects. Build a community around the brand or a specific product.
Highlight products or services – Promote its product, expertise, or services.
Facebook Gift Cards – E-mail Delivery
New Features for SMEs on Facebook
On September 8, 2015, Facebook rolled out some new features to promote the products and services of business page subscribers toward the mobile users:
A Call-to-Action: allows mobile users to contact the company directly (request information or take an appointment) from the Facebook app.
The Shop and Services tab allows the company to promote its products or services directly on its Facebook page.
These new features complement those already proposed by the social network on its business pages. Their main purpose is to facilitate communication between the company and its subscribers.
Using the Call to Action
This is a feature that has been on the company Facebook pages since December 2014. Once configured, the "Call to Action" button will provide one-click access to specific actions within the page, such as Book Now, Contact Us, Download Application, Play, Buy, Register or Watch Video.
This feature is even more prominent on the Facebook mobile app and, based on the strategy adopted by the company, it can help to convert user visits into sales.
The "Shop and Services" Tab
The "Shop and Services" capability adds a new tab where the company or brand can highlight its products or services. The Shop and Services tab can be used in various ways: to highlight the benefits and services of a beauty salon, present the latest collection of a brand, or to suggest a sports association.
As stated by the social network on its official blog, these new features will greatly facilitate interaction between SMEs and their subscribers: "The new features for Pages reflect our belief that no matter if you're a plumbing company, a flower shop, a non-profit or a brand, your Page should house the information people are looking for, help you communicate with your customers and support your unique goals." If used correctly, these tools can aid in business in driving traffic to its website, increasing awareness of their products and services, and ultimately boost company sales.


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'68: Rule of War #3 (Preview)
in Comic Previews Comment
- Story by
- Mark Kidwell
- Art by
- Jeff Zornow
- Colors by
- Jay Fotos
- Cover by
- Nat Jones and Tim Vigil
- Publisher
- Image Comics
Face-to-face with the psychopath that murdered his only son, CIA Agent Declan Rule learns the meaning of pain at the turn of a scalpel's blade. An abandoned airstrip in Vietnam introduces Kuen Yam and his followers to the unlikely agents of Heaven and in New Jersey. The Kuens' desperate journey downriver delivers them into the hands of a madman.


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Understand and apply the transimpedance amplifier (Part 1)
Posted: 08 Aug 2007 Print Version
Keywords:transimpedance op amps feedback resistor capacitor
Most engineers know that to design a transimpedance amplifier circuit, they just need a large-enough resistor to convert the input current to a reasonable output voltage range. To stabilize this circuit, a large enough capacitor must be placed in parallel with the feedback resistor. This article will show how to calculate the value for the feedback capacitor to ensure that the design has the largest possible bandwidth, and will still be stable.
View the PDF document for more information.
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New policy gives advisers the flexibility to custom the income policy to suit policyholders needs
The new policy which has taken eighteen months to develop and was launched on the 11th August 2014, offering flexible features such as the ability for advisers to suit the own occupation cover to policyholders needs. My Earnings Insurance (MEI) enables Cirencester Friendly income protection to be offered to even more consumers.
MEI is the first non-Holloway contract, which enables Mortgage Brokers and General Insurance Brokers to recommend Cirencester contracts to their clients for the first time.
The insurer says: "that MEI is backed by their proven and published claims record, MEI is everything you would expect from a leading provider and everything you wouldn't."
The new policy has been developed to provide advisers with the flexibility to create bespoke income protection cover to the differing needs of individual policyholders. Holloway style income protection products were originally introduced in the late 1800's by George Holloway targeting blue collar workers.
Holloway style policies are an income protection product that provide a replacement income benefit if policyholders are ill, injured or unable to work with the added benefit that these products invest a proportion of the premiums. Once the policy ends the policyholder will receive a tax-free cash lump sum.
Features include:
- Own Occupation definition with Level Benefit throughout the period of claim
- 65% earnings cover and the ability to have split deferred periods
- Annual Escalating or Level premiums both guaranteed
- Day One cover or a choice of 4, 8, 12, 26 or 52 week deferred periods.
- 'Severe Injury Cover' offering day one cover for a series of injuries
- Terminal Illness benefit that pays a lump sum following diagnosis death of within the following 12 months
John Bridge, director of Sales & Marketing for Cirencester Friendly said: "The contract has been developed after extensive research and feedback from our Members and the advisers in the community.
Following this feedback, we have delivered an income protection contract that provides flexibility, affordability and peace of mind through a continuing income for Members, should the worst happen."


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Job detail view & apply
|ICDS Recruitment
Connacht House
24 Upper Fitzwilliam St, Dublin 2
Tel: 00353 1 632 1200
E-mail: email@example.com
Web: www.icds.ie/build
Senior Site Engineer - Main Contractor - Cork
|Location: Cork
Entered: 18 Aug 2018
|Salary: Negotiable
Duration: Permanent
Our client has been established for over 50 years and is one of Irelands leading main contractors. They undertake projects in the Residential, Commercial, Industrial, Education and Healthcare sectors.
They are now seeking an experienced Senior Site Engineer for a major new building project in Cork.
To be successful for this role you will be Degree qualified with at least 2-3 years Site Engineering work experience with main contractors.
To register your interest please apply online or contact George @ ICDS Recruitment
Share |
|Apply using your CV:
|Further options:


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Norie's Kitchen – Cat in the Hat Cake 2, a photo by Norie's Kitchen on Flickr.
This is the 2nd time I was asked to make a Cat in the Hat cake, and I am not surprised this cat is one of the most popular of Dr. Seuss's characters. There was even a movie based on this book.
There is another thing that special about this cake. This is the first time that Nathan's mom ordered something online. I understand her because there are a lot of predators here on the net and I'm glad that she trusted Norie's Kitchen for her first transaction. I hope that she was satisfied transacting with us and more important that Nathan loved his cake.
Cake details:
Size: 6″
Flavor: Chocolate
Icing: Fondant
Characters: Gumpaste


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If you're feeling anxious and would like to talk to someone about anxiety relief – wherever you are in New Zealand – you can phone our free 24 hour Helpline:
Our Helpline gives vital support to hundreds of people each month who experience all forms of anxiety, including Panic Attacks, Phobias and Obsessive Compulsive Disorders.
If you suffer from anxiety, or have an anxious relative or friend you'd like to help, please call us for support and information about anxiety and anxiety management strategies.
This service if completely confidential and free of charge. It is the only service of its type in New Zealand.


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Martelle Photography are an award winning Alfreton Wedding Photographer. We pride ourselves on providing a professional service you can depend on, delivered with a personal touch. We endeavour to offer a relaxed, non-intrusive, personable method of photography, capturing the moments you wish to hold dear, and telling the story of your wedding day with images you will cherish forever.
As a husband and wife team we understand that weddings are about the coming-together of two people, surrounded by friends and family in a symbolic gesture of love, and these are precisely the moments we capture: We simply set the stage, letting the wondrous emotions of the day unfold as we commit them to camera.
Many of our contemporaries shoot the same tired poses again and again - which we actively avoid - in order to make your wedding photographs individual to you. Typically, we stay until 30 minutes after the first dance has concluded, although we will stay longer if required.
Upon completion of your wedding photography shoot, we always ensure that your photos are backed up and secured, so you can rest safe in the knowledge that the photos of your important moments will never be lost or damaged.
Every engaged couple are different, and we appreciate that. Naturally, our customers have preferences and ideas of their own when it comes to wedding photography - after all, it's your big day. Tell us your ideas as we love to hear them.
We also incorporate ad-hoc suggestions quickly and easily, and with the minimum of fuss – leaving you to continue enjoying the best day of your lives, surrounded by those you care about.
For stunning and lovely Alfreton Wedding Photography why not drop us a line on 07833 253788 or via our contact page
We look forward to hearing from you.


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Tag: mining
Revlon Finishing Powder
13 November 2012
Revlon Finishing Powder Revlon Colorstay Mineral Finishing Powder Size: 8.79g Shades: Sunkiss... Read more
Middle Eastern Pot
3 February 2012
Middle Eastern Pot Middle Eastern earth ware pot with lid. Features metal trimmings Size... Read more
Woodsware Tureen & Platter
25 January 2012
Woodsware Tureen & Platter Tureen & platter by Woodsware England. Jasmine design. ... Read more


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Pages: 1
How do you install and setup XFCE4 on DragonFlyBSD with some basic applications and decent theming?
Isn't this a distro-specific question to be answered on the appropriate forum? Or by following any of the various hits with a web search on "XFCE4 on DragonFlyBSD" such as:
It really has nothing to do with Xfce itself as far as I can see...
MX-17 (based on Debian Stable) with Xfce 4.12.
Pages: 1


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Fine Art Degree
TSR Wiki > University > Choosing a Subject > University Courses > Fine Art Degree
Course Structure
Universities offering degrees in Fine Art
University of Bedfordshire
University of Bedfordshire rapidly growing a reputation for its Fine Art BA and is known for providing facilities and resources of an high standard.
For detailed course info see http://www.luton.ac.uk/departments/mediaartdesign
Academic Requirements
UCAS Form & Personal Statement
Read sample art and fine art personal statements.
Course Structure
Life as a Fine Art Student
Graduate Destinations and Career Prospects
See Also
- Art, Music and Drama Study Help Forum - get help with homework and coursework or just ask general academic questions about fine art here.
- Fine Art Uni Course Forum - thinking of applying for fine art courses at uni? Asks your questions here.
Study Help
- Get help with your course with these University level Art revision notes.


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Adetola Adekunbi Oladeji - Deputy Head, Academic
Tola Oladeji, a seasoned teacher holds a Master Degree in Science from University of Ibadan and a PGDE from the University of Lagos.
Prior to joining Grange School, Tola had taught Chemistry and held senior positions in international schools in Lagos. She had received various awards as a result of her students achieving 100% grades between C and A*. She is licensed by the University of Cambridge international examinations to undertake assessment of candidates' coursework in accordance with CIE regulations. In 2009, she was promoted to the position of Deputy Vice Principal (Academic affairs in the secondary section), a position she held for 5 years.
As the current Director of Pupil Affairs at Grange, she oversees the behaviour and welfare of all students, the overall administration and oversight of the pastoral system, including the development and monitoring of the system of rewards and consequences.