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Tuesday, October 26, 2010
Raiders Of The Third Dimension...
It looks like Star Wars will have some company...
When George Lucas revealed that the Star Wars Saga was getting converted to 3D, many wondered was this just the start of something for Lucasfilm?
It is.
Someday soon, Lucasfilm will likely announce that they're converting the Indiana Jones Saga to 3D as well. The films will be converted and released in a similar fashion as the Star Wars films with "Raiders of the Lost Ark" the first out of the gate.
Lucas has been bitten by the 3D bug since "Avatar" showed the possible/promise of the technology, so other parts of the Lucasfilm catalog could be on the horizon as well.
It's only a matter of time before the announcement...
30 comments:
Great now we can see gophers and flying refrigerators in 3-D... well I won't. You couldn't pay me to see the last one ever again.
- October 26, 2010 at 12:14 AM
What does Indiana Jones have to do with Disney? They don't own it.
- October 26, 2010 at 12:17 AM
- YK2 said...
Howard the Duck? In 3D?
I'm there. - October 26, 2010 at 1:27 AM
"What does Indiana Jones have to do with Disney? They don't own it."
This question has been answered a million times by Honor. Beside it being his blog and he writes about what he likes and wants to, Indy is an attraction at many Disney parks and is considered by the public to be part of the company, owned or not. He talks about Star Wars as well and that's not owned by them either. - October 26, 2010 at 6:06 AM
- Unknown said...
Radioland Murders 3-D?
- October 26, 2010 at 7:44 AM
I hate to say this, but 3D is a fad. It might be nice to see it on occasion, but seeing 3D on a regular basis at home is a disappointment. It's underwhelming and a waste of money to upgrade the equipment. I'm also against 3D conversions. They are hardly done right. It's like a picture that broken up into layers of 2D images. The characters and backgrounds are not in 3D. I remembered when Ted Turner added color to Black/White movies. How did that turn out? It failed. No one wanted to see them. The colors looked very fake. Fake 3D will fail.
- October 26, 2010 at 7:53 AM
Why? I mean is this really necessary? Does anybody really care? By the time he's done with it, I would be willing to bet that the 3D craze has died down. Don't get me wrong, they're all great movies, with the exception of the last one (Kingdom of the cracked skulls), but leave them alone.
I would rather see Lucas put his time and energy into creating new stories in the Star Wars universe, or who knows, maybe even something entirely different. But, forget about re-doing everything in 3D and move on. If he wants to create new stories and do them in 3D, then fine, I'm okay with that, but I see no need to do this for the classics.
Take the example of what Ted Turner tried to do throughout the 80s with his colorization methods. They converted a few films but there was a lot of controversy about it, and in the end they gained very little, which led them to eventually stop doing it in the early 90s mostly due to the cost. Which to me says, there's not a big return on the investment. - October 26, 2010 at 7:56 AM
Count me out.
Here's what they don't know: I'd actually go to see a theatrical re-release of plain ol' Raiders, just like it always was. They don't need to add gimmicks like this to draw me back. I just saw Back To The Future last night in glorious 2D. What a treat! - October 26, 2010 at 8:25 AM
At least we get the best movie first (unlike the schedule for the Star Wars 3D releases).
- October 26, 2010 at 8:37 AM
Hey No_Fake obviously you don't know what you are talking about. Did you see The Priest trailer at comic-con? People thought it was shot in 3-D but NO it was converted. Because of the rush conversions, conversion in its self has been to blame but that won't e the case for long - watch for the new Narnia, Green Hornet and Priest - THEN tell me that conversion is lame. It is better than being shot in 3-D. Did you know that shooting with the 3-D rigs actually distort a person's face from 5 feet away? No, I betcha didn't. Conversion will go hand in hand with films shot in 3-D. They will accompany them, not hinder, everybody wants to make it a HD DVD vs. BLU-RAY war kinda thingy, and it's not. Next time No_Fake, study up on your facts before spewing out fiction - you just got Krauthammered ;}
- October 26, 2010 at 9:39 AM
Hey Capt. Willard,
I stopped watching a ViewMaster when I was eight, perhaps you should too?
Unless, you're still eight. In which I take it back. - October 26, 2010 at 9:58 AM
@CPT. WILLARD: Wow. You have to point out an obscure event at Comic-Con that only a select few people went to say a converted 3D is a success. This exception to the rule PROVES THE RULE. You keep saying to study on the facts. What is there to study? Either it is true or it is not. Your wonderland of great converted 3D is not yet a fact. You'll have to see the whole 3D movie to know if they will pull off the feat. I'll certainly concede after I viewed it myself. Nonetheless, I still say ALL 3D is a fad. Few people want 3D in their homes. And even fewer want to see a converted 3D movie. I still can't bring myself to see the terrible enhanced Star Wars Episodes 4-6 where they added a bunch of new stuff to the original series.
- October 26, 2010 at 10:10 AM
The horror...
The horror... - October 26, 2010 at 10:10 AM
Wearing 3D glasses is soooooo gay. I refuse to see any of this until I can watch it without glasses. Wake me up when it's here.
- October 26, 2010 at 10:20 AM
It's hilarious to see guys like James Cameron trumpeting 3D as the future of film and watching the studios spend billions into making an obsolete technology that's been around since the 1950's and trying to make it work digitally when they could be investing in holographic projection. Wake me up when holographic 3D technology arrives. Until then, I will stick with 2D film. I'd rather see a movie shot in Imax scope like The Dark Knight anyways. They could build better digital Imax cameras but instead they'd rather convert everything and make you wear silly, uncomfortable viewmaster glasses. In the future, true 3D will be holography. I just hope I'll be alive to see it but the more they keep wasting money on this ancient #d crap the longer we will have to wait for it.
- October 26, 2010 at 10:26 AM
- Unknown said...
LFL's official statement:
http://www.bigshinyrobot.com/reviews/archives/18321 - October 26, 2010 at 11:10 AM
- This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.
- October 26, 2010 at 11:29 AM
- Doopey said...
Honor, you can't put this stuff out there without some kind of source, even if you say it's an anonymous source. But you don't cite anything or anyone, and now the web is coming down kinda hard on you. And what other film in the Lucasfilm catalog would merit a 3D re-release? There's nothing else in there that would make back the money it would cost to convert it and market it. It makes the story seem that much more suspect. I'm just sayin'.
- October 26, 2010 at 12:11 PM
- Honor Hunter said...
I don't reveal sources. People can believe me or not, but I won't put people in jeopardy so that skeptics can be relieved that it's legit. If it doesn't happen it's because Lucasfilm postponed it, but it is happening.
As for other films, I was simply speculating on that one. Sinsce Lucas has other films you never know.
I will say this though, either Lucasfilm's spokesperson is lying or she's not in the loop on this... - October 26, 2010 at 12:25 PM
I'm surprised LFL hasn't issued a formal Cease & Desist to Honor yet. They are notorious for policing websites and shutting them down. Many Bothans died to bring us this information.
- October 26, 2010 at 12:26 PM
Honor did post the rumour about a new Star Wars trilogy and they were confirmed as just that... rumours. What does that tell you about his credibility?
- October 26, 2010 at 12:29 PM
I believe he mentioned that the Star Wars trilogy was a rumor. He wasn't saying it was from his Bothans. There is a difference. And I've seen many of the "rumors" that Honor has scooped turn out to be true.
- October 26, 2010 at 12:51 PM
Yes, this is happening people. Many of us in the industry have known about it for a while. Lucasfilm has been planning on this for a while. I've got several friends that have worked with Lucas before and they've mentioned it to me a couple months ago. It was supposed to be quite and not talked about till next month. Blue Sky let the cat out of the bag. Now those up in Marin are trying to put it back in. They can't. Maybe they'll postpone the announcement, but I doubt it. It'll come out and then what is that Spokeshole that is denying it going to say?
- October 26, 2010 at 2:59 PM
If you haven´t done so already - Watch the South Park episode in which Lucas adds great new digital effects to Raiders... Highly recommended, and it says all that can be said about the topic of ruining classic movies...
As for 3D: Is that nonsense ever going to end? When will audiences finally see that the emperor is as naked as a new born Pandoran? - October 27, 2010 at 6:42 AM
- This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.
- October 27, 2010 at 9:45 AM
Plausible deniability for Lucasfilm since they haven't made the official press release yet. I know someone who works at the facility that has been approached by LFL to do the 3D conversions and he says it is happening and an official announcement is forthcoming. You heard it on Bluesky first.
- October 27, 2010 at 9:47 AM
This story is accurate no matter what the naysayers scream. Blue Sky got it right for the most part. Here is what went down. The high-ups at Lucasfilm have been going around Hollywood for the last couple months seeking bids for conversion of the Indy films. The goal has or at least was, for them to make some form of an announcement next month. That may or may not happen now. It was supposed to be a surprise that Blue Sky broke. It is going forward, the plan is still to release them like the Star Wars films. The Lucasfilm spokesperson was towing the company line. Either they haven't kept her in the lupe or she's spinning. Perhaps she'd like to explain those Lucasfim Executives that were seen at several 3D conversion houses over the past month. Trust me, they weren't there to talk about Star Wars.
- October 27, 2010 at 10:12 AM
Does anyone think that Lucasfilm denying it means that it's not happening?
What reason do they have to say it is happening if they're not ready to say it is.
I've seen quite a few rumors on this site turn out to be true and I'll bet you a tiddy sum that this will turn out to be true as well. - October 27, 2010 at 2:41 PM
I would really like to see Ghostbusters in 3D. I can picture the green ghost flying all over the theatre. It would be cool.
- October 27, 2010 at 2:52 PM
I work for one of the companies that Lucasfilm visited. I know this to be true. I just wonder if they'll postpone the announcement now that Honor has let the cat out of the bag?
- October 28, 2010 at 6:03 PM


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So, you want to learn how to frost a cake? There are many, many, many ways to do it. Ultimately, the technique you choose to use will be based on what makes you comfortable, but I'm hoping that this guide will give you a place to start!
A step-by-step guide penned by Kaitlin and photographed by P
- Offset Spatula(s)
- Spoons or knives may cut it when it comes to frosting cupcakes, but these are the way to go when it comes to frosting cakes. They're available in a variety of sizes and shapes, but I think the best two to have in your arsenal are the 8″ model and the 13″ one.
- Bench Scraper
- In my opinion, this is the secret to getting a smooth layer of frosting. With a little practice, this will become one of your favorite tools.
- Dishers/Portioners/Ice cream scoops
- If you don't have one of these, a large spoon will get the job done, but since I have a few (they're good for portioning cookies), I'm using a #24 (1 1/3 oz) scoop today.
- Turntable
- I always use a turntable to frost cakes. It's an unnecessary investment if you don't frost cakes with any regularity, but if you do, you'll be so happy if you buy one. Look for them at small cake supply stores – they usually sell them there cheaper than you can find them at craft stores. If you really, really don't want to buy one, rig one up yourself like Alton Brown did in Season 6 Episode 15 of Good Eats.
- Non-Slip Pad
- Slip one of these under your cake on the turntable and you will thank me, I promise.
- Rubber Spatula
- I never leave the house without one!
- Additional Bowl
- You will use this for collecting crumby frosting.
- A filled and stacked cake on a stand or cardboard round
- Yeah, yeah – I know this and the next point are obvious, but I'm just covering my bases. You've got to frost something, right? (P.S. I got this cake stand at Home Goods)
- Frosting
- Use whichever kind you like – this technique is universal. Feel free to head over to my tutorials for Swiss Meringue and Italian Meringue, if you'd like some help with those, too!
I don't have a photo for the first step, but it's important, so listen up! Before you begin, you'll want to "deflate" your frosting a little to remove what may become obnoxious air bubbles. To do this, beat you frosting on the lowest speed possible of your stand/hand mixer for about five minutes, then proceed.
Starting with a stacked cake, drop on a small amount of frosting for your crumb coat. I used 2 scoops from a 1 1/3 oz disher. You don't need too much; this first layer of frosting will be very thin because it just there to hold in crumbs and prevent them from getting in the final coat.
Press the mound of frosting down and out with your offset spatula, spreading from the center to the edge. You can drag the offset along the top of the cake, but don't scrape it so hard that it tears.
This whole task is easiest to do if you use a swiveling motion with your wrist; tilting it gently left and right as you spread to more easily maneuver the frosting. This technique might not make much sense when you read it, but I think it's a natural movement. Truthfully though, the most important thing is to make sure that you're comfortable. Do what works for you!
Continue spreading the frosting outward from the top so that it hangs over like this. This is how you will crumb coat the sides.
Using the same swiveling motion, begin spreading the frosting around the sides of the cake. Don't be alarmed if working at this angle feels awkward – it always feels kind of strange. Also, don't worry if dabs of frosting fall off the cake. Just scoop any stray bits up and keep working with them. However, whatever you do, DO NOT use your offset spatula, which is surely covered in crumbs, to scoop additional frosting out of its container. If you need more frosting for your crumb coat, use the disher/spoon to put more on top. Once you get crumbs in your frosting, they can be very difficult to get out, so be careful.
Also, if you'd like to scrape the built-up frosting on the back of the spatula off, don't be tempted to do so on the cake's corners (the 90 degree angle consisting of the top and the side). Scrape the spatula on a separate empty bowl, then scoop up the residual frosting to add back to the crumb coat, if needed.
Continue working the frosting around the sides of the cake until every inch – from the top to the bottom – is covered.
Now it's time to thin the frosting, which helps really seal in the crumbs. Start with the top, using your offset to pull frosting from the edge of the cake, over the center and sweep the excess off. Run the underside of your spatula over the edge of a separate bowl (mentioned in step 4), then sweep across the top repeatedly until most of the frosting has been removed.
Use your bench scraper, held at about a 45 degree angle to the cake, to scrape off additional frosting by spinning the turntable toward it. Don't press too hard, which could cut the cake, but press firmly enough that it scrapes some frosting off. Transfer frosting to your designated bowl and set aside.
Congratulations – you've got yourself a crumb-coated cake! Most of the frosting has been removed, leaving you with a nice, thin coat to seal in crumbs and prevent them from bugging you in the next few steps.
Using your disher, scoop on a pile of frosting. Some people put on what they estimate to be enough to frost the top and bottom of the cake at this stage, but I don't like to do it that way. Seeing that much frosting all at once freaks me out and I always have a problem with it falling off the cake before I've finished applying it. However, that method does work for some people, so I advise you to do whatever makes you comfortable!
I put on 3 scoops, which I thought would be enough to cover the top of the 6″ cake and a little bit over the edges. However, this amount won't be enough for every size of cake, so be sure to adjust accordingly. One thing to learn from the alternate method is that more is better for this job, so don't be frightened about piling it on!
Using the same method that you used when you filled the layers of the cake, flatten out the mound of frosting with your offset spatula and work it out just over the edge (like in step 3), maintaining an even layer of frosting. It can be as thick or thin as you like; just make sure that you can't see the cake beneath it. Turn the turntable while you work, and spread in circular motions to even things out. Don't worry about getting it too perfect at this point because we'll come back to it later.
Before applying more frosting to the sides, flatten out the overhang.
After that's done, use a clean rubber spatula to scoop more frosting out of the bowl and transfer it to your offset spatula. You can simply scoop with the offset, if you like, but doing so increases the risk that you will get crumbs into your batch of frosting. Gently touch the loaded spatula to the side of the cake and begin spreading, being careful not to sweep your offset outside of the available frosting, which could introduce crumbs.
I worry about crumbs a lot. Have you noticed?
Continue spreading the frosting around the cake, applying excess frosting around the top rim of the cake which we will be using later to smooth out the top. Begin on the high side of the edge and work your way…
…to the bottom. It doesn't need to be too smooth for now, just try to make sure the coat is fairly even without too many low spots. Also, note the raised edge that I mentioned in the previous step. Make sure that you have this, or it will be difficult to smooth out the top later. If you've forgotten, add it at any time by applying small dabs of frosting to the top edge.
Ok, you're in the home stretch! The cake doesn't need to be any smoother than this at this point, and it would be just fine if it was messier. The next few steps will even everything else out.
This is the trick to a smooth cake: the humble bench scraper! You'll use it just as you did before (by holding it still at about a 45 degree angle and turning the turntable toward it), but this time you have to be very much in control of the pressure you're applying so you don't leave marks. Keep your hand very steady and still, and remember that you aren't necessarily trying to remove the frosting, you just want to even it out. Be sure that the bench scraper is perpendicular to the stand so that your cake isn't at all conical.
This step takes practice, but don't be discouraged. Keep at it! After two or three sweeps all the way around, move on to the next step.
Ok, so you've probably noticed that there are some uneven spots on your cake. Don't worry – you haven't done anything wrong! Use a CLEAN, DRY offset spatula to apply small amounts of frosting to the low spots, then use a CLEAN, DRY bench scraper to re-smooth.
After you are satisfied with the edges of your cake, move on to the task of smoothing the top. Use a longer spatula, if you like, but this 8″ one is what I was comfortable with for a cake this size. Place your spatula just beyond the side furthest from you at about a 45 degree angle, aligning the bottom edge with what you estimate to be the height of the inner layer of frosting…
… And scrape the frosting toward you, sweeping off when you get to the center of the cake. Clean your offset spatula.
Repeat this technique around all sides of the cake, cleaning the spatula each time, sweeping the last raised edge into the center, just as before.
Professionals would probably tell you to stop there. However, sometimes I'll add a little more frosting on top and spread it thinly over any imperfections, being very careful not to sweep it over the edges. But really, if there are a few marks on the top (or sides) it's not a huge deal!
Guess what? YOU'RE DONE! Continue decorating the cake any way you like or just leave it as is.
Don't stress yourself out over getting the frosting just so. If you start getting frustrated with it, stop and remind yourself that you're doing this for fun. Who cares if it's perfect? It's a cake. You're just going to eat it, anyway!

subset: commoncrawl


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Galaxy M51 Samsung USB Drivers for Windows
Samsung has done a great job when it comes to connecting its Galaxy Android devices with a computer; they have made the process seamless. And Samsung Galaxy M51 is no exception for it. All you need is the right version of the Samsung Driver for Galaxy M51. That is the reason why, in this article, we are bringing you the latest Galaxy M51 USB Drivers.
USB Drivers may not seems like a big deal, in the beginning, if you connecting your Galaxy M51 with your computer. If you are using a Mac-based computer or a computer running Linux, then you may not face as many problems when you are connecting your Galaxy M51. But, if you are using a Windows-based computer, then it is an entirely different store altogether. Windows operating system needs the right USB Drivers when you are connecting any sort of hardware with it. Be it a mouse, keyboard or even a hard disk drive – you need the right drivers to make it work. And when you are connecting your Samsung Galaxy 1o with your Windows PC, then you always need to have the latest version of Galaxy M51 USB Driver installed on it for proper and smooth functioning. If you have already installed an older version or an incompatible version of the Samsung Driver, then your experience may not be as smooth as it should be.
There are several scenarios where you might need to connect your Samsung Galaxy with your computer.
- For transferring photos and videos from device to PC to free up device space.
- To copy media on to your Samsung Galaxy.
- Flash stock firmware on your Samsung Galaxy.
- Update to the latest version of Android.
And the list goes on. The extent to which we depend on our computers when it comes to our smartphones is astonishing!
Download Galaxy M51 USB Drivers
For Device: Samsung Galaxy M51
File Size: 14.7 MB
Compatibility: Windows XP/Vista/7/10 | 32-Bit and 64-Bit
How to Install: Installation Instructions
- Latest Version: If you are looking for the latest version of the Samsung USB Driver, kindly visit this link: Latest Samsung USB Driver
- Other Versions: If you are looking for any other version of the Samsung USB Drivers, you can visit our Downloads Section.
- How to Install: If you want help with the installation of the Samsung USB Drivers, you can read our detailed step by step guide here: How to Install Samsung USB Driver
- Compatibility: Please be noted that this Samsung USB Driver software is only for computers and laptops running the Windows Operating system. Other Operating Systems are not supported at the moment.
Galaxy M51USB Driver – Frequently Asked Questions
What is Samsung USB Drivers for Samsung Galaxy Phones?
USB Driver for Mobile Phones, in general, is a program or utility which allows the users to effectively connect their mobile devices to their computers. In this case, we are dealing with Samsung mobile devices. Another use case is that the USB Drivers help app developers to test their apps by putting their apps on a mobile device. All the app developers create their mobile app using a desktop computer such as a Windows PC or a Mac and it is hard to completely test the software without actually putting it on a mobile device. Samsung USB Drivers for Galaxy Phones makes this possible for Samsung smartphones running Android.
For which platforms are Galaxy M51 USB Drivers for Mobile Phones available for?
The Samsung USB Driver for Samsung Galaxy M51 is available for all Windows Operating systems ranging from Windows XP to the latest Windows 10. Both 32-bit and 64-bit architectures are supported. Unfortunately, it is not available for the desktops or laptops running Mac OS X or macOS.
Is Galaxy M51 Samsung USB Driver for Mobile Phones free?
Yes. The Galaxy M51 USB Driver is offered by Samsung officially and you need have to pay anything to use it on your computers. There is no upfront payment or in-app payments to remove advertisements or unlock additional features. There isn't any form of advertisement in the program either. It's clean and free.
Is Galaxy M51 USB Driver for Mobile Phones safe?
Yes. The official Galaxy M51 Samsung USB Driver is 100% safe for your computer or laptop and your mobile devices as well. There are no forms of any malicious code in the program and it appropriate for users of all ages.
How often is the Samsung USB Driver for Galaxy M51 updated?
There is no fixed schedule or timeline in which Samsung updates the USB Drivers. Updates are pushed out to iron out any bugs and improve performance as and when needed. All the updates come directly from Samsung.
How do I install Galaxy M51 Samsung USB Driver on Windows?
You can install Samsung USB Driver for Mobile Phones by downloading the .exe file and installing it on your computer. It is as simple as installing any standard Windows application or program. You can follow the simple steps mentioned here: How to Install Samsung USB Driver
What devices does Galaxy M51 Samsung USB Driver work with?
The Samsung USB Drivers for Galaxy M51 is designed specifically for all Samsung Galaxy phones running Google's Android operating system. All the Samsung Galaxy smartphones are fully supported by this USB Driver. Other devices are not supported.
Does Galaxy M51 USB Driver for Mobile Phones require an internet connection to use?
No. Galaxy M51 USB Drivers for Mobile Phones does not require an active internet connection in order to be used on your computer/laptop. Samsung smartphones are connected to the PC via a USB cable, so there is no need for a wifi or Bluetooth connection either.
Can I view the contents on my Galaxy M51 with Samsung USB Driver?
No. Samsung USB Driver for Galaxy phones only provides the necessary system files which enable your Samsung phone to effectively communicate with your computer. You cannot view your phone's contents with Samsung USB Driver for Mobile Phones. In order for consumers to view what's on their phones and manage the same, we recommend a program called Samsung Kies which is also available for Windows.
Does Samsung Galaxy M51 USB Driver work with both mobile and desktop devices?
The Galaxy M51 Samsung USB Driver software is designed to be installed on a Windows computer or laptop to enable smooth communication between a Samsung Galaxy 10 and a Windows computer. You would need a Samsung Galaxy device to use it with your computer.
You can download the latest version of the Samsung USB Drivers by visiting the below link:


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In her teen years my aunt Betty (Beverly Slade Anderson) visited Aunt Cat and Uncle Steve in their Washington D.C. home many times.
Jackie, Steve Barany, Betty (Beverly Slade Anderson) |
Steve and Catherine Barany on the left with neighbors on the right |
At what appears to be a birthday or New Years party, Catherine and Steve are on the front row, far right. |
Front row: Cat is smoking and wearing a dark striped sweater. I wonder what the tags were for. |


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War and Remembrance: Erwing Eisch's Night of the Crystal Death Portfolio
War and Remembrance: Erwing Eisch's Night of the Crystal Death Portfolio
In 1992 Erwin Eisch (b. 1927) created a series of works in response to the words "crystal night" for the American Interfaith Institute in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. The words, which are a reference to Kristallnacht, prompted Eisch to create a series of works known as the Night of the Crystal Death portfolio.
Rather than rely photographs, Eisch turned to his childhood memories and recent feelings to enrich his work. Eisch's village of Frauenau in Germany, home to a 600 year old glass industry, did not suffer the violent riots that swept through Germany and Austria in November 1938. However, Eisch remembers a childhood of fear, uncertainty, and poverty. Later in life, Eisch grappled with the burden of shame laid upon all native Germans for the atrocities of the Second World War and Shoah (the Holocaust). These emotions are expressed through Eisch's spontaneous use of line, relatable forms, and identifiable symbols in his prints.
Often Eisch takes a humanist approach in dealing with global issues in his art. Here his craft and hand augment his interpretation of the riots of November 1938. Made from engraved glass plates, the viteograph prints focus on the human aspects from that night – the shared and individual memories of pain, loss, anger, and hatred – instead of a literal interpretation of shattered glass and racial prejudice.
Works on loan from the Jewish Federation of the Quad Cities
This exhibition can be viewed February 25 – May 3, 2012
Sponsored by
The Singh Group • Merrill Lynch
Erwin Eisch, Opus 9 from the Night of the Crystal Death portfolio, 1992, viteograph print on paper.
On loan to the Figge Art Museum from the collection of the Jewish Federation of the Quad Cities.


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Tammie Temple demonstrates the Chicken Gone Wild recipe, a casserole makeover developed by our Healthy Cook Rebecca Katz.
Listen to Edward Grinnan's interview with KCBI-FM (Dallas) on the Guideposts' cover story of Josh Hamilton and news of the ballplayer's relapse last January (2009).
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Wholesale Furniture Gallery in Myrtle Beach, SC is an authorized dealer of American Woodcrafters Products. American Woodcrafters is an American owned and operated furniture company based in High Point, NC. For over 15 years their company has been crafting quality master bedroom furniture and kids bedroom furniture. Their bedroom furniture ideas and designs are created to meet the needs of todays modern family.
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Monday, November 21, 2011
Pappy Van Winkle: Know Your Bottle Codes
Of late, there has been much controversy about which bottles of Pappy are Stitzel-Weller and which are Buffalo Trace. There doesn't seem to be much doubt that the 20 and 23 year old Pappys are still made from Stitzel-Weller bourbon, but there has been a lot of back and forth about the 15.
Pappy 15 is the most affordable and some think the best of the Pappy line (which also makes it the hardest to get). Based on statements made by the Van Winkles a few years ago, it sounds as if they made a big (and possibly final) run of Pappy 15 bottles from Stitzel Weller in 2009 that held them through the spring 2011 release. This fall, according to this K&L interview with Preston Van Winkle, the Pappy 15 is bourbon made at Buffalo Trace.
But suppose you happen to find a bottle of Pappy on a dusty shelf somewhere. How will you know whether it is the old Stitzel Weller or the new Buffalo Trace version? The answer is in the bottle code. If you have ever visited Tim Puett's Ardbeg Project site, you know about bottle codes. They are codes placed on each bottle that show the time and date of the bottling and they can help you distinguish between different releases of the same whiskey. Tim has demonstrated huge differences in, for instance, the Ardbeg 10 over the years, but you can't tell when the whiskey is from without knowing the bottle code.
Buffalo Trace uses a similar code which can tell you the year your Van Winkle (or your Stagg, Weller, etc.) was bottled. The code is a very small digital stamp that appears on the bottle, usually below the back label. Here's how to read it using two examples:
Example 1: K0780907:21
Example 2: N3001114:13
The first letter is the bottling line at Buffalo Trace; example 1 was the K line, and example 2 was the N line. I don't know enough about the bottling there to know if there is any real significance that can be gleaned from the bottling line.
The second three digits indicate the day of the year that it was bottled. So example 1 was bottled on the 78th day of the year and example 2 was bottled on the 300th day of the year.
The third two digits indicate the year - this is really the most significant piece of information. The "09" on example 1 indicates it was bottled in 2009, so if it's Pappy 15, it would likely be from the old Stitzel-Weller stocks. Example 2 has an "11" which indicates 2011 when they started using Buffalo Trace bourbon.
The final four digits are the bottling time on a 24 hour clock, so example 1 was bottled at 7:21 am and example 2 was bottled at 2:13 pm (14:13).
If you love your Pappy and your BTAC and especially if you go dusty hunting for older versions, it pays to know your bottle codes.
UPDATE (March 2012)
For the Spring 2012 release, it appears that the order of numbers has switched. In the comments below, a reader gave this example of a bottle code: b1204011:11k.
I would interpret it this way.
The first letter indicates it was bottled at Buffalo Trace. The first two digits are the year, so "12" means bottled in 2012. The second three digits are the day of the year, so "025" means the whiskey was bottled on the 25th day of the year, which would be January 25th. This would be consistent for the spring 2012 release. The last four digits are the time of bottling, in this case, 11:11. The last letter is the bottling line.
Bottle codes did not start appearing on bottles until 2007. For hints on dating a pre-bottle code Van Winkle, see my Pappy Van Winkle Timeline.
97 comments:
- Eamonn said...
Thanks for the great info. Looks like the two bottles I bought in the spring were bottled in 2009. Hopefully I'll be able to get a 15 this fall to compare.
- November 22, 2011 at 6:19 AM
In Lexington, Kentucky, at least, the Van Winkle line is not so much a brand as it is an aspiration. Near as I can tell, bottles here never made it to store shelves this fall, not even the entry level 10 year old. Since 10 year old bourbon cannot be terribly scarce, the apparent Van Winkle business plan to severely restrict availability seems a bit counterproductive. How will the firm win new customers if folks can only rarely get the product? A better plan, I suspect, would be to keep the 10 year old Van Winkle in common circulation and reserve the older bourbons for strict allocation. Of course, it's their company not mine. They have spent several decades successfully building up the brand, so they obviously know something about marketing (and bourbon).
Tom Troland - November 22, 2011 at 6:54 AM
- Greg said...
Steve - good post. There's been discussion of this very thing; e.g. SW or not SW. To me, if it's good, who cares but I understand some do. I have PVW15 from 2006 in my bunker but for the life of me can't find the bottling code. It might be under the label. As for finding a "dusty" PVW15.....when monkeys fly.
- November 22, 2011 at 11:25 AM
Greg, did you look hard. As you may know, the code can sometimes be very hard to see (it's very small black lettering). You should try holding it up to a light at an angle and rotating.
I suppose it could also be covered by the label, I'm not sure what goes on first, code or label.
And lastly, I know that recent vintage codes are generally under the back label, but maybe earlier ones are in other areas. - November 22, 2011 at 11:31 AM
This is great info, Sku! Who filled you in?
- November 22, 2011 at 2:23 PM
- Ryan Murphy said...
I just checked mine and it's from 08...SW juice for sure. Great info Sku!
- November 22, 2011 at 2:51 PM
I just got a bottle of 15 and 20 year old today from the fall 2011 allocation. Both were bottled about 3 weeks apart from eachother this year.
With all this talk of S/W vs. BT juice, I'm sure that the 15 is new BT spirit... but how sure can I be that they haven't used BT 1991 juice in the Fall 2011 release? I got it because I was sure it was still S/W :) - November 22, 2011 at 10:16 PM
Sorry for the over-post, I meant to ask how reasonably sure we can all be that the 20 year old from the fall '11 release isn't BT juice. Thanks! :)
- November 22, 2011 at 10:24 PM
I'd say you can be pretty sure. Preston Van Winkle says in the interview I link above (at around 14:00) that the 20 and 23 are still from stocks that were made at Stitzel-Weller.
- November 22, 2011 at 10:26 PM
- SteveBM said...
Thanks for this post. It's fun for us bourbon dorks (to use Greg's blog name haha). I just got up to Boston where my Dad proudly announced that he'd scored an "old" bottle of 15. This I highly doubted and in the spirit my pops and I have of loving to challenge each other's bold claims, I hit your blog to help prove him wrong. I found the digital stamp (located just under the bottom right corner of the back label - needed to tilt the bottle and hit it with a flashlight to make it out) and found that his bottle was bottled this year in October (298th day). The odd thing was that it was bottled at 8:28pm. I guess during Pappy season they burn the midnight oil at BT.
Thanks for aiding me in victory. Next up I will just have to shame the old man into letting me crack the bottle and have at it! - November 23, 2011 at 11:23 AM
I finally opened up the fall 2011 release today... am I alone in being very unimpressed with this? It's rather one-dimensional and lacks something in the mid-palate. It tastes like an above average cognac.
I am hoping the 20 is a whole lot better! I may just put it on ebay since I only paid $90 for it though :)
The 2011 Saz. 18 I opened today as well was SOOO much a sexier dram! - November 24, 2011 at 10:37 PM
Pardon me, I meant 2007-2011 releases.
- November 27, 2011 at 7:26 AM
Sorry, Anonymous, but I find the Jefferson Presidential 17 to be much more flavorful than the 15 PVW, and the label actually tells you it's S/W juice.
The 20 is far better than the 15 as well. IMHO. My palate is far from inexperienced.
For true "rarity" go find a 70s Brora or an old Springbank 21. Those, my friend are sexy whiskies. - November 27, 2011 at 1:43 PM
Hey now folks, let's be civil and respect each other's opinions. There is no right answer when it comes to which is the better whiskey.
- November 27, 2011 at 3:37 PM
Agreed Sku. My apologies.
- December 8, 2011 at 8:06 PM
- bkarmstrong said...
I just bought 2 bottles of PPW 15 and on inspection of the bottle codes realized I have one 2009 and one 2011. I am very excited to have an older one, but I am not yet convinced that the 2009 is truly Stitzel-Weller product. The math just doesn't work out for me.
Here's my blog post anyways:
http://bkarmstrong.blogspot.com/2011/11/pappy-van-winkle-bourbon.html - December 18, 2011 at 8:39 PM
I just picked up 2 PVW 23 and was surpised to find that - according to the code information above - they are years 06 and 08 respectively. I am confused as to these older dates as this is my local shop and these just arrived in the shop within the last week. It seemed unusual that they would receive these older bottling from their distributer.. rather than the 2011 versions. Is this unusual in your experience?
- January 21, 2012 at 2:32 PM
I found a bottle at a small store in Bastrop Texas on Feb. 2nd. 2012. Had to dust the bottle off but I cannot find a on the entire bottle. At least not one that resembles the codes you have listed.
- February 3, 2012 at 6:05 AM
- sku said...
Anon, they can be very, very hard to see since they are small black lettering. If you haven't alreaady done this, try holding the bottle upside down and using a flashlight.
- February 3, 2012 at 8:08 AM
I have a couple of the old bottles and can find no such code on them. These were from a hand picked barrel that the vendor bought and had bottled. Great Bourbon.
- March 4, 2012 at 9:26 AM
The bottle of 15yr that i just bought has this bottle code b1204011:11k the third two digit is 40 I'm not sure what to make of it
- March 16, 2012 at 1:49 PM
- sku said...
Anon, I've heard this from a few people. I don't have any confirmation on this, but it looks like they have changed the code. Here is how I would decipher it:
b: Bottle line b
12: 2012
040: 40th day of the year - Feb. 9
11:11 Bottled at 11:11 a.m.
This would be consistent with being from the spring release from this year. - March 16, 2012 at 3:01 PM
Talk about lightning striking - I went into my local liquor store tonight to get a bottle of Elijah Craig and what do see on the bourbon shelf (at eye level, no less) than ONE beautiful bottle of Pappy 15!! (I triple-checked, there was only the one)...I live in a rural "control" state that gets NO good bourbon, or much of anything else for that matter, and this store is literally the only one within an hour's drive. They also normally have a very limited bourbon selection. Needless to say, I almost s*** my pants!!
-According to your info on the new bottling codes, SKU, mine was bottled on August 28, 2012 at 8:04 p.m., therefore it's BT juice, but hey, given where I live it's about a once-in-every-five+-years find and definitely has made my Saturday night!
- November 24, 2012 at 6:42 PM
- kik36 said...
Very interesting article. I just snagged a bottle of 23, which arrived at my local store yesterday. Unfortunately the codes don't match what you have here....unless the 2 and 1 are transposed? The 308th day would make sense though. Here it is: K2130811:28
- December 8, 2012 at 9:16 AM
- sku said...
kik36, that would have been an older bottling.
K bottle line
213th day
11:28 bottling time. - December 8, 2012 at 11:24 AM
Ahh!--kik36, you very fortunate person! A 2008 bottling of the 23 y.o. is a Stitzel-Weller for sure, unless you're made of $$$ you should save it for your special occasion(s)!
- December 23, 2012 at 6:24 PM
Hi, sku -this is edo in Japan. I just bought (ordered Dec. 21, 2012) a bottle of PVW 15 y.o. from Kawachiya online. One per customer and they couldn't have had it up much more than a day. It's in a 70 cl bottle and the number on the back label is:
06.6071 (that's it- no letters or anything else.)Now, oddly, on the front label, very bottom left is the number:
04.6071 Only the second digit is different. Got any ideas about that?
... and I was able to get two bottles of Lot B. Again, 70 cl.(export?) size. There is no back label except a Japanese sticker, but on both bottles the front label bottom right has this number: 04.6081.01
Any ideas? - January 2, 2013 at 10:10 PM
- sku said...
Sorry Edo, I have no clue what that would be. Did you look closely for other codes? Usually the code is in a small black computer printed numbers below the back label. It can be very difficult to see when the bottle is full. I'm wondering if the code you found is an additional code used for exports.
Of course, given that they have to use a completely different bottling size, it's possible that there is a different code for export bottlings. - January 2, 2013 at 10:59 PM
- cjlevi2012 said...
I have a bottle I picked up somewhere between 2002 and 2006. I cannot locate the bottling code for the life of me (I even tried the flashlight trick) but it has the same label codes that Edo mentioned. How big is the bottling code?
Chris - January 18, 2013 at 9:23 PM
- cjlevi2012 said...
Also, I purchased the bottle I the Midwest and the glass has a neat logo with an S inside a rectangle with 2 "L"s inside the curves of the S, not sure if this is significant or not.
Thanks again!
Chris - January 18, 2013 at 9:36 PM
- sku said...
The bottle code is usually somewhere under the back label. It is quite small, maybe 8 point or so and in black type which makes it very hard to see in a full bottle. I'm not sure when they started using it, so if it's an early bottling, it's possible it was before they were using it.
- January 19, 2013 at 8:10 AM
Just picked up a bottle of PVW 23 with the code K2110810:16. Time to store it away for a rainy day. Thanks for article, it was a great help.
Hey Edo, don't read the code on the label, mine says 06.6104, you need to look for black numbers on the glass bottle, they are hard to see unless you are looking for them.
Cheers - January 25, 2013 at 4:35 PM
Did the 20, and 23 start coming from BT the same time as the 15? I have a 2011 20 year PVW. The code is similar to the first example you gave.
Josh - February 24, 2013 at 8:56 AM
- sku said...
Josh, no. Understandably, they ran out of the 15 first. Sometime last year, the 20 year old became a blend of Stitzel-Weller and BT (and probably Bernheim too). The 23 is still all Stitzel-Weller but all of it is bottled and they will keep releasing it. When those bottles dry up, they will move to a mixture as well, but no one knows when that will be.
- February 24, 2013 at 10:50 AM
- Wade said...
I think BT started this sometime in 2007. I checked my Saz 18 collection and 2007 bottle has laser code and 2006 bottle does not.
- July 30, 2013 at 9:17 AM
I got a bottle of Pappy Van Winkle 23. I cannot find a laser code on the bottle. The bottle # is 1595 can someone tell me what I have? Thank You.
- September 14, 2013 at 10:21 PM
- Macked said...
I bought a bottle of the 20YO today (in Australia believe it or not).
So I am right in assuming that this is no longer pure Stitzel-Weller?
Rgds - October 31, 2013 at 7:38 AM
- sku said...
Macked, that looks like a label code (the code hand written on the label). The codes referred to here are the electronic codes printed directly on the bottle, usually near the bottom.
- October 31, 2013 at 8:38 AM
I just bought a 20 yr Pappy from a local liquor store and have been trying to find the laser codes to get information on when it bottled. I can't find it anywhere. I've used the flashlight method and also looked under the labels with no luck. I've checked other bottles and haven't had a problem find these codes before. Is there a chances they don't code all bottles or it could've been skipped? Thanks.
- November 14, 2013 at 11:36 AM
- sku said...
Anon, maybe you got your hands on an older bottle. They didn't start using the code until around 8 or 9 years ago.
- November 14, 2013 at 1:47 PM
- Unknown said...
I just found a bottle of 20yr PVW with the code L07300445 in a little liquor shop off the beaten path. Of course I bought it immediately. Can anyone confirm that the label states it is from year 2000? I just want to make sure I am not crazy..I have not seen anyone with a "L" as the first letter, I have only heard of B and N..
- December 6, 2013 at 1:48 PM
- sku said...
Hmm, I don't think they were using the bottle codes that far back. Is there a colon in there somewhere?
- December 6, 2013 at 1:51 PM
I just traded for a bottle of the 12 year lot B. I was a bit hesitant at first. To put my mind at ease I was hoping someone would be able to tell me how I can figure out if the bottle I got is a real or fake. Great appreciated.
- December 19, 2013 at 11:53 AM
Help me out here, please: So, is my bottle of 20-year-old with the year "11" in the digital code a BT or old line. Thanks!
- January 13, 2014 at 7:55 AM
- sku said...
Assuming you're reading the code correctly, if it indicates 2011 and is a 20 year old, it should be Stitzel-Weller.
- January 13, 2014 at 8:48 AM
Here is the cipher code straight from the bottling folks at PVW.
First letter indicates it was bottled at Buffalo Trace
First two numbers indicate year bottled
Next three are Julian date.
Time in 24 hr format
Last letter is the bottling line on which it was bottled.
So, Buffalo Trace, 2012, 190th day of the year at 2:48 on line M
Bottling Date on Bottle pre 2011
Line on which bottled
3 digit Julian date
year bottled
time in 24hr format - January 23, 2014 at 12:13 PM
Just would like to confirm what year this bottle is. I am under the impression that it is a 2013 but a friend is claiming it to be a 2011. Please clarify. Thank you. - March 12, 2014 at 7:55 PM
- sku said...
You are correct. This is the new code configuration with letters at both sides.
B = Buffalo Trace
13 = 2013
121 = 121st day of the year
13:24=time of bottling (24 hr clock)
m = bottling line m
- March 12, 2014 at 9:27 PM
Curious about Lot b bottled in 2007. Trying to find out if it is possible this is S/W? Thanks
- March 25, 2014 at 12:20 PM
- sku said...
Anonymous. Yes, it's possible there is SW in it, though if there is, it's probably blended with Bernheim. It's also possible that it's 100% Bernheim. Sorry for the lack of clarity, but I doubt you're going to get a better answer than that from anyone.
- March 25, 2014 at 12:25 PM
Is there a way to find out the age of a bottle of Pappy Van Winkle 15 that does not have a bottle code? Have had the bottle for approx. 8-10 years.
- March 29, 2014 at 7:44 AM
- sku said...
Is there a way to find out the age of a bottle of Pappy Van Winkle 15 that does not have a bottle code?
Yes, it's 15 years old.
Just kidding. I know what you mean.
I believe the bottle codes started in 2007, so you know it was bottled between late 2004 (when they started Pappy 15) and 2006, but I think that's the closest you can get.
- March 29, 2014 at 9:03 AM
Haha your funny.
Thank you for the info. Any idea what the value might be? - March 29, 2014 at 1:09 PM
- sku said...
Sorry, value isn't my area.
- March 29, 2014 at 6:46 PM
So my family has had several bottles of PVW 23yr from the first or second releases and I left some some with my mom and dad 5 years back. Last week I had only two left and and found out my parents never drank them ! So now I literally have 5 dusty bottles of PVW 23yr with gold wax.
My questions is: how do you read the bar codes on the older labels?
and did subsequent releases continue the bottle numbering or did they start over each time?
Because I have some that are numbered between 1-100 - April 10, 2014 at 9:33 AM
- sku said...
If you mean the hand written code on the label, I don't think there is a reliable way to decipher that. However, if the bottle's glass is green, it's from the first release of Pappy 23. If the glass is clear, it's from the second release (or later).
- April 10, 2014 at 9:37 AM
There is probably a duplicate comment coming because there is a lag time in posting so please disregard the repeated post.
Anyway, yes the bottle is clear so I guess it it the second release. THe hand written bottle numbers are Im curious about though. did they start over at bottle number 1 for each release? - April 10, 2014 at 9:46 AM
- sku said...
I've never heard a solid explanation. I don't think even they know the rhyme or reason of those numbers at this point.
- April 10, 2014 at 3:39 PM
hello - thanks for this older, but still very useful post :)
question, i'm looking at a (dumpy) bottle of old rip van winkle 10 (107) and found the serial on the bottom:
so the code is:
42 24 111 12 21:00
unsure of what the "42 24" means, but i gather that the rest translates to being bottled on the 11th day (april 21) in 2012 @ 9:00pm
any help on the "42 24"?
ds. - April 14, 2014 at 9:09 PM
- sku said...
That's odd ds. I've never seen the code on the bottom of the bottle like that, and sorry, but I have no idea what the 42 or 24 are, but I certainly would agree with the rest of your interpretation.
- April 14, 2014 at 9:12 PM
thanks for the quick reply! i guess the search will continue on. :P
- April 14, 2014 at 9:20 PM
- sku said...
There's not really much other useful information you can get from a bottle code. Usually, extraneous numbers are for internal tracking - bottling lines and such.
- April 14, 2014 at 9:42 PM
- C said...
Hello Sku, Great thread! On 2/26/12, I bought two bottles of 20 yr Pappy Van Winkle from the same store. The first one had bottle code (K0210809:23). It was very difficult to find but was behind the front label and I had to read it backwards from the back of the bottle. The code on the second bottle was under the back label (J1470911:54). Since I bought them in winter 2012, they must have been from the store's fall 2011 distribution.
My question is, does it make sense that they were bottled in 2008 and 2009 when I bought them in 2012?
- April 18, 2014 at 3:41 PM
- sku said...
C, sometimes the Van Winkles do a big bottling that they use for several years so it is possible. For instance, the 2009 bottling of Pappy 15, as noted above, was around for at least three releases. The other option is that the distributor held some back or somehow got some from another distribution.
- April 18, 2014 at 7:12 PM
- C said...
Thanks for the info!
- April 19, 2014 at 11:41 AM
I found a small screw top Pappy glass container. It has a white label that cannot read. On bottom is 54j8 and a mark under the j. The word Pappy is diagonal With the P being lowest and the Y being the highest. Can you identify please. Thank you.
- May 15, 2014 at 10:59 AM
- sku said...
Scott, that doesn't ring a bell at all. Do you have a picture you could link to?
- May 15, 2014 at 8:23 PM
- Donald Sink said...
I recently had the good fortune of acquiring a bottle of Pappy 20-year old. The bottling code is K2631117:58. From my reading of past posts here and other blogs, I surmise that this is one of the last SW only juice bottles bottled, since BT started blending SW with BT in 2012 (for the 20-yr expression). Am I totally off base here. Is there way more history that I can learn?
My name is Don, and I live in NH and I love KY bourbon. - June 15, 2014 at 7:55 PM
- sku said...
Hi Don, your bottling code indicates that that Pappy 20 was bottled in the fall of 2011. We only know details about content from what's come out of the mouths of the Van Winkles, but based on my 2012 interview with Preston Van Winkle, it would appear that you are correct that it one of the last 100% Stitzel-Weller bottlings of the 20 year old.
Congrats on a nice find! - June 15, 2014 at 8:25 PM
- Donald Sink said...
Thank you Sku. I never thought I'd ever see a bottle let alone find and buy one. Now, what to do with it -- perhaps open it for our retirement party in a year or two?
- June 16, 2014 at 6:54 PM
- sku said...
That sound like a perfect use for it!
- June 16, 2014 at 7:07 PM
Thank you so much for this post! I know almost nothing about bourbon, but my hubby drinks bourbon exclusively, and has gathered quite a collection over the years. For Xmas I wanted to get him something very, very special. We live in LA, but it was impossible to find the selection of PVW I wanted at a local store. From an on-line vendor I purchased three bottles: 15, 20 & 23 yr old PVW. I wanted all 3 to be S-W bottling so I purchased 08 or 09 bottles at a very high price. I think the bottle codes confirm I received the correct bottles:
Please let me know if these codes verify I have 3 really good bottles of Pappys for him.
Thanks in advance!
Carol C. - December 21, 2014 at 10:59 AM
- sku said...
Carol, that sounds right to me. He's a lucky guy!
- December 22, 2014 at 11:41 AM
- EricInMaryland said...
I have a bottle of 20yr Family Reserve Limited Edition. Unopened. It has no code, clear glass and the Lawrenceburg address. From what I can piece together it was likely bottled between 1999 and 2002. Is this a valuable bottle?
- January 3, 2015 at 7:38 PM
- sku said...
Eric, Lawrenceburg bottles are considered pretty desirable and quite tasty.
- January 3, 2015 at 7:47 PM
- Unknown said...
I have a 15 yo pappy bottle with that dot matrix code. What does the 'S' denote: Is this from '07. - June 20, 2016 at 6:50 AM
- sku said...
S would be the bottling line, and yes, it would be from 2007.
- June 20, 2016 at 12:11 PM
- Chrisman said...
I have a bottle of van winkle special reserve 12 yr lot b. The code on the bottle does not make sense or at least I'm thinking too hard. The code is
I don't understand the last 4 does anyone know about this? - December 1, 2016 at 6:25 AM
- sku said...
Chrisman, I don't know what the last 4 is, but it otherwise conforms - bottled 148th day of 2015 at 9:24.
- December 1, 2016 at 6:43 AM
I have a Van Winkle Special Reserve 12yr Lot B. There is no laser code. I purchased it from my local store but don't remember how long ago. Can you help me out
- December 10, 2016 at 2:46 PM
- sku said...
When you don't see a laser code there are three options: (1) the bottle is from before 2007, when they started using the code; (2) you haven't found the code - they can be hard to see and sometimes hide under the back label; (3) someone scrubbed the code - a little Windex is all it takes.
- December 10, 2016 at 9:29 PM
I have a question about the raised lettering on the Pappy Van Winkle labels for the bottles. My question is it possible for a Pappy Van Winkle to have been from 2002-2006, but not have raised lettering?
I ask because I know someone in a possession of a 20 year old bottle that actually is taller and the top opening does not have ridging. We e-mailed a man that has written books about Pappy & he says not to worry about it because during the early 2000s, they would use whatever bottles they had. (we actually found someone else who had a bottle similar as well on Facebook). My point is, you would question its authenticity if you just saw it because it appears to be an odd ball.
So, we are in possession of 3 bottles (not all tall), but they do not have raised lettering or bar codes. My father bought these I know pre-2010 (I do not know exact years), but it was when he could still find Pappy on the shelves in stores. He just quit buying because he refused to pay when it went up in price, compared to what he had been previously paying, & he switched to Weller 12 year (haha also when you could buy CASES & find it in stores). So, I am saying I know my father did not use windex on the bar codes (& he did not buy them from a third party...he bought them from the liquor store), & it seems crazy all the bar codes would have rubbed off all the bottles. However, the label lacks the raised lettering. Is it possible the raised lettering was not on all the 2002-2006 era 20 year Pappy Van Winkle? - December 10, 2016 at 10:44 PM
- Pappy said...
Anyone know the proper measurements from the top down to tell if a pappy is authentic?
- March 17, 2017 at 6:12 AM
- Unknown said...
Hello. I have a found a bottle that I am thinking about purchasing but I am not 100% sure if it in authentic. For a 2016 Pappy 20 year, the serial code that they have in the image is B160760732M. Many of you have listed : in your codes for the time. This one appears to be missing the colan. I'm guessing this is a red flag that this is fake but wanted to make sure.
- April 18, 2017 at 12:35 PM
- Unknown said...
Need help identifying a 15 yr PVW.
Embossed label
Code is ETCHED into the bottle however, the the first letter is not legible. - April 23, 2017 at 12:58 PM
- Unknown said...
I have a bottle of 23 year old family reserve with the black code of L172510117:20N. It has a hand written bottle # of i6848. Need help deciphering the code
- October 8, 2018 at 10:22 AM
just got a bottle for Xmas, great present from the wife. Can't find the codes using a flashlight. The only codes I can find are on the front label bottom left corner that reads : C.11089. On the back label under theJustin P. Van Winkle III signature is : 06.6074.02 Any idea what these codes are and when this bottle was made? Afraid to open it up and drink it.
- December 25, 2018 at 5:54 PM
- Dan O'Keeffe said...
I have a couple bottle is Elmer T Lee. The codes are the following
I suspect these are 2018 bottles however thr rear label shapes are different...strange. Any comments are appreciated. Thanks
Dan - February 22, 2019 at 9:23 PM
- stickitinmywing said...
I have a bottle of Van Winkle Special Reserve 12 that seems a bit unusual. The code is etched L181290114:197 with IA 5C VT 15C below it. Also the bottle at the very bottom has a B with a heart around it. I got it from a reputable dealer so I'm guessing the new bottle are like this?
- April 29, 2019 at 8:30 PM
- Unknown said...
I have a bottle Old Rip Van Winkle 10 with a similar code etched into it. Have you been able to figure out the code beacuse I have not.
- June 18, 2020 at 8:50 AM
Buffalo Trace has has numbered bottling lines and lettered bottling lines. If you have one with a number at the end, it's likely a real bottle, as long as the rest of the numbers match the format. You're more likely to get a refill than a counterfeit bottle. Pay special attention to the foils and fill lines.
- October 29, 2020 at 11:37 AM
very helpful info on the date codes. However I have one that does not fit the code. It is a 15 year old, there are actually 2 lines the first reads L17257011 10:31 7 under that line is another line in the same tiny dot matrix that says ref Ia 5c VT 150
- October 30, 2020 at 5:51 PM
- Sku said...
They've changed the codes several times. The bottle code you list (L17257011 10:31 7) indicates it was bottled on the 257th day of 2017 at 10:31am.
- February 28, 2021 at 5:05 AM
Have a bottle of PVW 23 yo, can't find the code but does have the raised lettering on the label? Any idea?
- March 15, 2021 at 6:52 AM
- Unknown said...
I have a bottle of Pappy 23 and all I see is #B 4911...and 04.6074.01..wondering what that means...??
- December 1, 2021 at 5:21 PM
- Tim said...
I have a Van Winkle 12 lot B the laser code is B1618207:364. Any help with this code is appreciated.
- March 18, 2022 at 7:51 PM
What does the J stand for
- July 18, 2022 at 3:50 PM


text:
The mission of Circles Wyoming, part of a national anti-poverty movement, is "to build intentional, diverse and long-term relationships as people move from barely surviving to thriving."
Trained "intentional friends" are matched with someone who is looking to escape poverty, explains Director Tim Thorson. They do everything "from having coffee once a month to talk about financial goals to going to the gym together ... things that any friends would do."
Staff helps keep the relationships meaningful, Thorson says, "because these particular friendships are across lines of economic class and involve role modeling and coaching as well as having fun."
Copyright 2021 NPR. To see more, visit https://www.npr.org.


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How Lash Extensions Are Made
How Lash Extensions Are Made
Hey beauties! Today, I want to take you on a fascinating journey behind one of the hottest trends in the beauty world: eyelash extensions. If you've ever wondered how those...
How Lash Extensions Are Made
Hey beauties! Today, I want to take you on a fascinating journey behind one of the hottest trends in the beauty world: eyelash extensions. If you've ever wondered how those...
Why is quality so important when it comes to lash extension supplies?
If you're a lash enthusiast like me, you know that achieving those fluttery, voluminous lashes is an art form. And guess what? The secret behind picture-perfect lash extensions lies in using high-quality products. Today, I want to spill the tea on why investing in top-notch eyelash extension products is an absolute game-changer for both you and your clients. So grab your favorite lash curler, sit back, and let's dive into the world of fabulous lashes!
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text:
The American Academy of Facial Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery is the world's largest specialty association for facial plastic surgery. It represents more than 2,700 facial plastic and reconstructive surgeons throughout the world. The AAFPRS is a National Medical Specialty Society of the American Medical Association (AMA), and holds an official seat in both the AMA House of Delegates and the American College of Surgeons board of governors. AAFPRS members are board certified surgeons whose focus is surgery of the face, head, and neck. AAFPRS members subscribe to a code of ethics.
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text:
This knol written by gravi_t, an active member of the Gmail group, does a good job at explaining the features that make Gmail different.
Imagine this:
- each email is a piece of paper
- labels are post-it notes, sticky notes
- there are default labels, like "Inbox", "Sent items", "Trash" ("Bin"), "Spam"
- you can also create labels (i.e. sticky notes)
This means that - unlike in other email services - you do not put the emails into folders. You actually attach labels to the emails.
Only one copy of your emails:
- you only just have ONE existing copy of your emails
- no matter how many labels (post-its) you stick on them
- you can attach as many labels to this one copy as you want, just as you can stick a lot of post-it notes to the same one piece of paper
This is why your email disappears from everywhere when you delete it; because deleting the email means deleting the "piece of paper"!!
The knol is licensed as Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial and Google should use some of its content in the "welcome" message.
Tip: To find when you created a Gmail account, go to "All mail", click on "Oldest" and you'll see the first messages you've received. You'll need this information to get access to a compromised Gmail account.
{ Thanks, Anonymous. }


text:
I've had a personal distaste for many years for many "old school" conventions of slaying, say, a village of goblins, just because they're evil. Is it considered to be just for "heroes" to slaughter them all? Is it right to never offer quarter to sapient foes, but rather barge into a dungeon room with swords drawn? etc.Generally, I don't give a lot of consideration to questions of this sort, because, in my experience, they're often insincerely asked. That is, they're really a cover for a hidden agenda of some sort, including (but not limited to) a general indictment of D&D and/or swords-and-sorcery gaming generally.
Personally, I can really only enjoy hack-n-slash if there's either a strong moral compass for the heroes (requiring those who follow good to offer quarter, not taking lives needlessly, etc.), or if those the heroes act against are by definition irredeemably evil (demons, devils, undead, Cthulhu-esque horrors, etc.). But I admit I'm weird and don't judge other viewpoints... and it's not like I'm consistent in this view. (I don't like heroes killing orcs just because they believe they're evil, but I don't think a player of the Russian side in Axis & Allies is tacitly approving of Stalin's actions.)
In this case, though, the question included reference to a moral compass, something I've previously commented upon as a necessity in D&D. Indeed, my feeling remains that the game implicitly holds to a rather traditional moral structure derived from a kind of "fairytale Christianity" that partly provides a counterbalance to the game's other, more unsavory implications -- but only partly.
That's because D&D has never been a systematic game, particularly in its inspirations. While pulp fantasy writers like Howard, Leiber, and Vance, none of whom were much concerned with "moral" questions, are the game's primary influences, they're not its only ones. Both Gygax and Arneson were interested in medieval history and its events, both real and legendary, also loomed large in their imaginations. It's from here that deviations from the comparative amorality of pulp fantasy entered the game, aided no doubt by the authors' own moral beliefs. The end result is a game with some very muddled moral stances, complicated by the fact that many of D&D's internal mechanisms, such as alignment, contributed to rather than dispelled its muddled state.
This moral confusion was made worse by the fact that in most traditional swords-and-sorcery literature, there aren't a lot of "monsters," let alone intelligent ones. The enemies against whom Conan or Fafhrd and the Gray Mouser fought, for example, were generally other human beings, none of whom were portrayed as evil by nature. They were enemies because they opposed the protagonists, not because of what they were. D&D, though, borrowed many surface elements from high fantasy writers like Tolkien, elements that, when stripped of their larger context, don't mesh well with the pulp fantasy superstructure of the game.
Thus, the importation of the irredeemably evil orcs -- and the extrapolation by Hit Dice of other related races -- introduced a wrinkle into the implied setting of the game that it couldn't easily contend with. Whereas Conan's slaying of an individual man could be potentially be justified on the basis of the individual's actions, humanoid monsters don't seem to enjoy that same status. They're evil because they are evil and no further justification is needed. Tolkien himself seemed to waver on this point later in life, but D&D, for most of its existence, has not. Add to this the naturalistic presence of non-combatant females and young, and you have the recipe for some very thorny questions that D&D's incoherent moral structure just can't handle.
I say that not as a criticism of Dungeons & Dragons. I don't personally have any problems with this incoherence, mostly because it's precisely this that makes the game so accessible and malleable to many tastes. But there's no denying that the incoherence is there and that, without some thought on the part of the referee (not to mention the cooperation of his players), the game can quite easily degenerate into something that some might view as indefensible from a moral point of view.
Again, let me stress that I'm not saying that this has to be the case or even that it's much of an issue for me personally. I've dealt satisfactorily with these matters in my own campaigns, but doing so required that I deal with them. I don't recommend making them the focus of one's campaign (or one's thoughts about it), but I also think avoiding them isn't viable in the long term. Or at least it's never been so for me. I much prefer to address moral questions head on, even in RPGs, and it's precisely this that I think too many referees don't do, thereby lending ammunition to those who would argue there's something inherently immoral about swords-and-sorcery. That's why, like Steven Marsh, I think a moral compass of some sort is needed to combat this false accusation.