text:
To find out why, BriefingsDirect recently gathered an international panel of experts to explore the concept of "architecture is destiny," especially when it comes to hybrid services delivery and management. The panel shows how SOA is proving instrumental in allowing the needed advancements over highly distributed services and data, when it comes to scale, heterogeneity support, and governance.
The panel consists of Chris Harding, Director of Interoperability at The Open Group, based in the UK; Nikhil Kumar, President of Applied Technology Solutions and Co-Chair of the SOA Reference Architecture Projects within The Open Group, and he's based in Michigan, and Mats Gejnevall, Enterprise Architect at Capgemini and Co-Chair of The Open Group SOA Work Group, and he's based in Sweden. The discussion is moderated by Dana Gardner, Principal Analyst at Interarbor Solutions. [Disclosure: The Open Group is a sponsor of BriefingsDirect podcasts.]
Here are some excerpts:
Gardner: Why this resurgence in the interest around SOA?Listen to the podcast. Find it on iTunes. Read a full transcript or download a copy. Sponsor: The Open Group.
Harding: My role in The Open Group is to support the work of our members on SOA, cloud computing, and other topics. We formed the SOA Work Group back in 2005, when SOA was a real emerging hot topic, and we set up a number of activities and projects. They're all completed.
I was thinking that the SOA Work Group would wind down, move into maintenance mode, and meet once every few months or so, but we still get a fair attendance at our regular web meetings.
In fact, we've started two new projects and we're about to start a third one. So, it's very clear that there is still an interest, and indeed a renewed interest, in SOA from the IT community within The Open Group.
Larger trends
Gardner: Nikhil, do you believe that this has to do with some of the larger trends we're seeing in the field, like cloud Software as a Service (SaaS)? What's driving this renewal?
Kumar: What I see driving it is three things. One is the advent of the cloud and mobile, which requires a lot of cross-platform delivery of consistent services. The second is emerging technologies, mobile, big data, and the need to be able to look at data across multiple contexts.
The third thing that's driving it is legacy modernization. A lot of organizations are now a lot more comfortable with SOA concepts. I see it in a number of our customers. I've just been running a large enterprise architecture initiative in a Fortune 500 customer.
At each stage, and at almost every point in that, they're now comfortable. They feel that SOA can provide the ability to rationalize multiple platforms. They're restructuring organizational structures, delivery organizations, as well as targeting their goals around a service-based platform capability.
So legacy modernization is a back-to-the-future kind of thing that has come back and is getting adoption. The way it's being implemented is using RESTful services, as well as SOAP services, which is different from traditional SOA, say from the last version, which was mostly SOAP-driven.
Gardner: Mats, do you think that what's happened is that the marketplace and the requirements have changed and that's made SOA more relevant? Or has SOA changed to better fit the market? Or perhaps some combination?
Gejnevall: I think that the cloud is really a service delivery platform. Companies discover that to be able to use the cloud services, the SaaS things, they need to look at SOA as their internal development way of doing things as well. They understand they need to do the architecture internally, and if they're going to use lots of external cloud services, you might as well use SOA to do that.
Also, if you look at the cloud suppliers, they also need to do their architecture in some way and SOA probably is a good vehicle for them. They can use that paradigm and also deliver what the customer wants in a well-designed SOA environment.
Gardner: Let's drill down on the requirements around the cloud and some of the key components of SOA. We're certainly seeing, as you mentioned, the need for cross support for legacy, cloud types of services, and using a variety of protocol, transports, and integration types. We already heard about REST for lightweight approaches and, of course, there will still be the need for object brokering and some of the more traditional enterprise integration approaches.
This really does sound like the job for an Enterprise Service Bus (ESB). So let's go around the panel and look at this notion of an ESB. Some people, a few years back, didn't think it was necessary or a requirement for SOA, but it certainly sounds like it's the right type of functionality for the job.
Loosely coupled
Harding: I believe so, but maybe we ought to consider that in the cloud context, you're not just talking about within a single enterprise. You're talking about a much more loosely coupled, distributed environment, and the ESB concept needs to take account of that in the cloud context.
Gardner: Nikhil, any thoughts about how to manage this integration requirement around the modern SOA environment and whether ESBs are more or less relevant as a result?
Kumar: In the context of a cloud we really see SOA and the concept of service contracts coming to the fore. In that scenario, ESBs play a role as a broker within the enterprise. When we talk about the interaction across cloud-service providers and cloud consumers, what we're seeing is that the service provider has his own concept of an ESB within its own internal context.
If you want your cloud services to be really reusable, the concept of the ESB then becomes more for the routing and the mediation of those services, once they're provided to the consumer. There's a kind of separation of concerns between the concept of a traditional ESB and a cloud ESB, if you want to call it that.
The cloud context involves more of the need to be able to support, enforce, and apply governance concepts and audit concepts, the capabilities to ensure that the interaction meets quality of service guarantees. That's a little different from the concept that drove traditional ESBs.
That's why you're seeing API management platforms like Layer 7, Mashery, or Apigee and other kind of product lines. They're also coming into the picture, driven by the need to be able to support the way cloud providers are provisioning their services. As Chris put it, you're looking beyond the enterprise. Who owns it? That's where the role of the ESB is different from the traditional concept.
Most cloud platforms have cost factors associated with locality. If you have truly global enterprises and services, you need to factor in the ability to deal with safe harbor issues and you need to factor in variations and law in terms of security governance.
The platforms that are evolving are starting to provide this out of the box. The service consumer or a service provider needs to be able to support those. That's going to become the role of their ESB in the future, to be able to consume a service, to be able to assert this quality-of-service guarantee, and manage constraints or data-in-flight and data-at-rest.
Gardner: Mats, are there other aspects of the concept of ESB that are now relevant to the cloud?
Entire stack
Gejnevall: One of the reasons SOA didn't really take off in many organizations three, four, or five years ago was the need to buy the entire stack of SOA products that all the consultancies were asking companies to buy, wanting them to buy an ESB, governance tools, business process management tools, and a lot of sort of quite large investments to just get your foot into the door of doing SOA.
These days you can buy that kind of stuff. You can buy the entire stack in the cloud and start playing with it. I did some searches on it today and I found a company that you can play with the entire stack, including business tools and everything like that, for zero dollars. Then you can grow and use more and more of it in your business, but you can start to see if this is something for you.
In the past, the suppliers or the consultants told you that you could do it. You couldn't really try it out yourself. You needed both the software and the hardware in place. The money to get started is much lower today. That's another reason people might be thinking about it these days.
Gardner: It sounds as if there's a new type of on-ramp to SOA values, and the componentry that supports SOA is now being delivered as a service. On top of that, you're also able to consume it in a pay-as-you-go manner.
Harding: That's a very good point, but there are two contradictory trends we are seeing here. One is the kind of trend that Mats is describing, where the technology you need to handle a complex stack is becoming readily available in the cloud.
One of the reasons SOA didn't really take off in many organizations three, four, or five years ago was the need to buy the entire stack of SOA products
And the other is the trend that Nikhil mentioned: to go for a simpler style, which a lot of people term REST, for accessing services. It will be interesting to see how those two tendencies play out against each other.
Kumar: I'd like to make a comment on that. The approach for the on-ramp is really one of the key differentiators of the cloud, because you have the agility and the lack of capital investment (CAPEX) required to test things out.
But as we are evolving with cloud platforms, I'm also seeing with a lot of Platform-as-a-Service (PaaS) vendor scenarios that they're trying the ESB in the stack itself. They're providing it in their cloud fabric. A couple of large players have already done that.
For example, Azure provides that in the forward-looking vision. I am sure IBM and Oracle have already started down that path. A lot of the players are going to provide it as a core capability.
Pre-integrated environment
Gejnevall: Another interesting thing is that they could get a whole environment that's pre-integrated. Usually, when you buy these things from a vendor, a lot of times they don't fit together that well. Now, there's an effort to make them work together.
But some people put these open-source tools together. Some people have done that and put them out on the cloud, which gives them a pretty cheap platform for themselves. Then, they can sell it at a reasonable price, because of the integration of all these things.
Gardner: The cloud model may be evolving toward an all-inclusive offering. But SOA, by its definition, advances interoperability, to plug and play across existing, current, and future sets of service possibilities. Are we talking about SOA being an important element of keeping clouds dynamic and flexible -- even open?
Kumar: We can think about the OSI 7 Layer Model. We're evolving in terms of complexity, right? So from an interoperability perspective, we may talk SOAP or REST, for example, but the interaction with AWS, Salesforce, SmartCloud, or Azure would involve using APIs that each of these platforms provide for interaction.
So you could have an AMI, which is an image on the Amazon Web Services environment, for example, and that could support a lab stack or an open source stack. How you interact with it, how you monitor it, how you cluster it, all of those aspects now start factoring in specific APIs, and so that's the lock-in.
From an architect's perspective, I look at it as we need to support proper separation of concerns, and that's part of [The Open Group] SOA Reference Architecture. That's what we tried to do, to be able to support implementation architectures that support that separation of concerns.
There's another factor that we need to understand from the context of the cloud, especially for mid-to-large sized organizations, and that is that the cloud service providers, especially the large ones -- Amazon, Microsoft, IBM -- encapsulate infrastructure.
If you were to go to Amazon, Microsoft, or IBM and use their IaaS networking capabilities, you'd have one of the largest WAN networks in the world, and you wouldn't have to pay a dime to establish that infrastructure. Not in terms of the cost of the infrastructure, not in terms of the capabilities required, nothing. So that's an advantage that the cloud is bringing, which I think is going to be very compelling.
The other thing is that, from an SOA context, you're now able to look at it and say, "Well, I'm dealing with the cloud, and what all these providers are doing is make it seamless, whether you're dealing with the cloud or on-premise." That's an important concept.
From an SOA perspective, the cloud has become very compelling.
Now, each of these providers and different aspects of their stacks are at significantly different levels of maturity. Many of these providers may find that their stacks do not interoperate with themselves either, within their own stacks, just because they're using different run times, different implementations, etc. That's another factor to take in.
From an SOA perspective, the cloud has become very compelling, because I'm dealing, let's say, with a Salesforce.com and I want to use that same service within the enterprise, let's say, an insurance capability for Microsoft Dynamics or for SugarCRM. If that capability is exposed to one source of truth in the enterprise, you've now reduced the complexity and have the ability to adopt different cloud platforms.
What we are going to start seeing is that the cloud is going to shift from being just one à-la-carte solution for everybody. It's going to become something similar to what we used to deal with in the enterprise context. You had multiple applications, which you service-enabled to reduce complexity and provide one service-based capability, instead of an application-centered approach.
You're now going to move the context to the cloud, to your multiple cloud solutions, and maybe many implementations in a nontrivial environment for the same business capability, but they are now exposed to services in the enterprise SOA. You could have Salesforce. You could have Amazon. You could have an IBM implementation. And you could pick and choose the source of truth and share it.
So a lot of the core SOA concepts will still apply and are still applying.
Another on-ramp
Gardner: Perhaps yet another on-ramp to the use of SOA is the app store, which allows for discovery, socialization of services, but at the same time provides overnance and control?
Kumar: We're seeing that with a lot of our customers, typically the vendors who support PaaS solution associate app store models along with their platform as a mechanism to gain market share.
The issue that you run into with that is, it's okay if it's on your cellphone or on your iPad, your tablet PC, or whatever, but once you start having managed apps, for example Salesforce, or if you have applications which are being deployed on an Azure or on a SmartCloud context, you have high risk scenario. You don't know how well architected that application is. It's just like going and buying an enterprise application.
When you deploy it in the cloud, you really need to understand the cloud PaaS platform for that particular platform to understand the implications in terms of dependencies and cross-dependencies across apps that you have installed. They have real practical implications in terms of maintainability and performance. We've seen that with at least two platforms in the last six months.
Governance becomes extremely important. Because of the low CAPEX implications to the business, the business is very comfortable with going and buying these applications and saying, "We can install X, Y, or Z and it will cost us two months and a few million dollars and we are all set." Or maybe it's a few hundred thousand dollars.
When you deploy it in the cloud, you really need to understand the cloud PaaS platform for that particular platform.
They don't realize the implications in terms of interoperability, performance, and standard architectural quality attributes that can occur. There is a governance aspect from the context of the cloud provisioning of these applications.
There is another aspect to it, which is governance in terms of the run-time, more classic SOA governance, to measure, assert, and to view the cost of these applications in terms of performance to your infrastructural resources, to your security constraints. Also, are there scenarios where the application itself has a dependency on a daisy chain, multiple external applications, to trace the data?
In terms of the context of app stores, they're almost like SaaS with a particular platform in mind. They provide the buyer with certain commitments from the platform manager or the platform provider, such as security. When you buy an app from Apple, there is at least a reputational expectation of security from the vendor.
What you do not always know is if that security is really being provided. There's a risk there for organizations who are exposing mission-critical data to that.
The second thing is there is still very much a place for the classic SOA registries and repositories in the cloud. Only the place is for a different purpose. Those registries and repositories are used either by service providers or by consumers to maintain the list of services they're using internally.
Different paradigms
There are two different paradigms. The app store is a place where I can go and I know that the gas I am going to get is 85 percent ethanol, versus I also have to maintain some basic set of goods at home to make that I have my dinner on time. These are different kind of roles and different kind of purposes they're serving.
Above all, I think the thing that's going to become more and more important in the context of the cloud is that the functionality will be provided by the cloud platform or the app you buy, but the governance will be a major IT responsibility, right from the time of picking the app, to the time of delivering it, to the time of monitoring it.
Gardner: How is The Open Group allowing architects to better exercise SOA principles, as they're grappling with some of these issues around governance, hybrid services delivery and management, and the use and demand in their organizations to start consuming more cloud services?
Harding: The architect's primary concern, of course, has to be to meet the needs of the client and to do so in a way that is most effective and that is cost-effective. Cloud gives the architect a usability to go out and get different components much more easily than hitherto.
There is a problem, of course, with integrating them and putting them together. SOA can provide part of the solution to that problem, in that it gives a principle of loosely coupled services. If you didn't have that when you were trying to integrate different functionality from different places, you would be in a real mess.
The Open Group's real role is to support the architect and help the architect to better meet the needs of the architect client.
What The Open Group contributes is a set of artifacts that enable the architect to think through how to meet the client's needs in the best way when working with SOA and cloud.
For example, the SOA Reference Architecture helps the architect understand what components might be brought into the solution. We have the SOA TOGAF Practical Guide, which helps the architect understand how to use TOGAF in the SOA context.
We're working further on artifacts in the cloud space, the Cloud Computing Reference Architecture, a notational language for enabling people to describe cloud ecosystems on recommendations for cloud interoperability and portability. We're also working on recommendations for cloud governance to complement the recommendations for SOA governance, the SOA Governance Framework Standards that we have already produced, and a number of other artifacts.
The Open Group's real role is to support the architect and help the architect to better meet the needs of the architect client.
From the very early days, SOA was seen as bringing a closer connection between the business and technology. A lot of those promises that were made about SOA seven or eight years ago are only now becoming possible to fulfill, and that business front is what that project is looking at.
We're also producing an update to the SOA Reference Architectures. We have input the SOA Reference Architecture for consideration by the ISO Group that is looking at an International Standard Reference Architecture for SOA and also to the IEEE Group that is looking at an IEEE Standard Reference Architecture.
We hope that both of those groups will want to work along the principles of our SOA Reference Architecture and we intend to produce a new version that incorporates the kind of ideas that they want to bring into the picture.
We're also thinking of setting up an SOA project to look specifically at assistance to architects building SOA into enterprise solutions.
So those are three new initiatives that should result in new Open Group standards and guides to complement, as I have described already, the SOA Reference Architecture, the SOA Governance Framework, the Practical Guides to using TOGAF for SOA.
We're also thinking of setting up an SOA project to look specifically at assistance to architects building SOA into enterprise solutions.
We also have the Service Integration Maturity Model that we need to assess the SOA maturity. We have a standard on service orientation applied to cloud infrastructure, and we have a formal SOA Ontology.
Those are the things The Open Group has in place at present to assist the architect, and we are and will be working on three new things: version 2 of the Reference Architecture for SOA, SOA for business technology, and I believe shortly we'll start on assistance to architects in developing SOA solutions.
You may also be interested in:
- The Open Group Trusted Technology Forum is Leading the Way to Securing Global Supply Chains
- Corporate Data, Supply Chains Remain Vulnerable to Cyber Crime Attacks Says Open Group Conference Speaker
- Open Group Conference Speakers Discuss the Cloud: Higher Risk or Better Security?
- Capgemini's CTO on Why Cloud Computing Exposes the Duality Between IT and Business
- San Francisco Conference observations: Enterprise transformation, enterprise architecture, SOA and a splash of cloud computing
- MIT's Ross on how enterprise architecture and IT more than ever lead to business transformation
- Overlapping criminal and state threats pose growing cyber security threat to global Internet commerce, says Open Group speaker


text:
This creamy, rich tasting tomato soup is made in the slow cooker, with tomatoes, herbs, milk and Pecorino Romano cheese, plus the cheese rind for an added flavor boost.
Last night for dinner, we had a big bowl of this soup with some grilled garlic bread and a simple garden salad. For lunch, I usually like to have a small cup with a half sandwich (whole wheat grilled cheese – yum!).
Thanks to my parents, I'm real picky when it comes to soup. I grew up in home where we had homemade soup practically every night. Almost always dinner usually started a meal with a bowl of soup (not something I was always happy about as a kid) but I always loved when mom made her tomato soup.
Her recipes are usually more labor intensive than mine, I much prefer quick and easy. This slow cooked tomato soup, comes pretty close to her original, without all the extra work. I always cook my vegetables on the stove, I think it gives you the best tasting results. You can do this the night before to save time in the morning. What really makes the soup over the top in my opinion, is the cheese rind (you toss it after the soup is done). I always freeze them after I use up my cheese, just to make soups, but don't worry if you don't have one the soup will still turn out fine.
You can also make this on the stove top: just simmer it in a big pot on low for about 1 1/ 2- 2 hours. If you want to use fresh garden plum tomatoes, as I often do in the summer when I need to use them up, I just blanch them in a big pot of boiling water until the skins crack, then remove them and peel the skins off.
This soup freezes well, so don't worry if this makes too much, you can make it and freeze it in small containers for quick meals on busy weeknights.
Crock Pot Creamy Tomato Soup
Servings: 6 • Size: 1-1/2 cups • Old Points: 4 pts • Weight Watcher Points+: 5 pt
Calories: 177 • Fat: 10 g • Carb: 17 g • Fiber: 3 g • Protein: 8 g • Sugar: 8 g
Sodium: 600 mg • Cholest: 21 mg
- 1 tbsp olive oil
- 1 cup finely diced celery
- 1 cup finely diced carrots
- 1 cup finely diced onions
- 28 oz can whole plum tomatoes, with juice
- 1 tsp thyme
- 1/4 cup fresh basil
- 3 1/2 cups reduced sodium chicken broth (or vegetable for vegetarians)
- Parmesan or Romano cheese rind (optional)
- 1 bay leaf
- 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
- 2 tablespoons flour
- 1/3 cup grated Pecorino Romano cheese
- 1 3/4 cups reduced fat (2%) milk, warmed
- salt, to taste
- black pepper, to taste
Heat a large skillet over medium heat, then add the oil, celery, carrots and onions; cook 5 to 6 minutes, or until golden. Add to slow cooker.
Pour the juice of the tomatoes into the slow cooker, then roughly crush the tomatoes with your hands; add to slow cooker. Then add chicken (or vegetable broth), the cheese rind (if using) thyme, basil, and bay leaf.
Cover and cook on LOW for 6 hours, until the vegetables get soft and the flavors blend. Remove the cheese rid and, using an immersion blender, blend the soup until smooth (or you can carefully do this in small batches in the blender).
Melt the butter over low heat in a large skillet and add the flour. Stir constantly with a whisk for 4 to 5 minutes. Slowly whisk in about 1 cup of the hot soup, then add the 1 3/4 cups of warmed milk and stir until smooth. Pour back into the slow cooker and stir, add the grated Pecorino cheese and adjust salt and pepper, to taste.
Cover and cook on low 30 more minutes.
Makes about 9 1/4 cups.

subset: commoncrawl


text:
Carried around a cigarette because I thought it made me look sophisticated. Klassy.
Sported the Brooke Shields eyebrows. The effect was less Brooke, more Frida Kahlo.
Bought into the bra top fad. I'm a 32-A, so not so much.
Permed my waist length wavy hair. Barely fit in the car.
Safety-pinned extra shoulder pads to the inside of my shoulder pads. You heard me.
Pierced my belly button. It never healed: pus is pretty.
Drove a convertible Jeep for three years. Nothing awesome about speeding down the freeway with a mouth full of flying hair while you're trying to keep your giant dog from jumping out of the car.
Wore a Blossom hat for an entire season. Fetching.
Invested $8.00 in self tanning lotion. Could have achieved same effect with three hours and an orange highlight marker.


text:
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Recently I have come across several Moroccan dishes that have sounded pretty interesting. They are interesting because they tend to include a lot of spices and flavour combinations that I would not normally think of using. The Moroccan dishes also used dried fruit and harissa for some sweetness and some heat.
I have also come across several tagine dishes. A tagine is a clay pot with a lid that braises meat very efficiently. The tagine can be baked in the oven or it can be cooked on the stove if the tagine has a metal bottom.
In the end I decided to go with a Moroccan lamb tagine . This dish could also be made with beef but I went with lamb since there is a lot of nice looking lamb in the stores now. Since I don't have a tagine I braised the meat in a covered pot at low heat on the stove. The Moroccan inspired lamb tagine turned out really well. The flavour combinations were really amazing. The spices, the sweetness and the heat all balanced out well. I served the lamb tagine on lemon and mint couscous and garnished it with toasted almonds and cilantro and parsley. Overall it was a very tasty meal.
Moroccan Lamb Tagine
- 2 teaspoons paprika
- 1/4 teaspoon ground turmeric
- 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
- 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
- 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
- 1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
- 1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom
- 1 teaspoon salt
- 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
- 3/4 teaspoon garlic powder
- 3/4 teaspoon ground coriander
- 1 pinch saffron
- 1 lemon (zest)
- 1 tablespoon oil
- 1 pound lamb (cut into bite sized pieces)
- 1 tablespoon oil
- 1 onion (chopped)
- 3 cloves garlic (chopped)
- 1 tablespoon ginger (grated)
- 2 tablespoons tomato paste (I used chopped sun dried tomatoes)
- 1-2 cups beef stock
- 2 carrots (cut into bite sized pieces)
- 1/2 cup dried apricots (chopped)
- 1/2 cup dried dates (chopped)
- 1/2 cup dried figs (chopped)
- 1 tablespoon honey
- 2 tablespoons harissa
- 1 tablespoon cilantro (chopped)
- 1 tablespoon parsley (chopped)
- 1 tablespoon toasted almond slices
- Mix the paprika, turmeric, cumin, cayenne pepper, cinnamon, cloves, cardamom, salt, ginger, garlic, coriander, saffron, lemon zest and oil in a ziplock bag, add the lamb, mix well and marinate the fridge for a few hours to overnight.
- Heat the oil in a large pot over medium-high heat, add the lamb, brown well on all sides and set aside.
- Add the onions and saute until tender, about 5-7 minutes.
- Add the garlic and ginger and saute for about a minute.
- Add the lamb, tomato paste, beef stock, carrots, apricots, dates and figs bring to a boil, reduce the meat and simmer covered until the lamb is fall apart tender, about 2-3 hours.
- Bring to a boil, reduce the heat and simmer until the carrots are tender, about 20 minutes.
- Add the honey and harissa.
- Serve garnished with cilantro, parsley and toasted almonds.
Slow Cooker: Optionally implement steps 1-4, place everything except the cilantro, parsley and almond in the slow cooker and cook on low for 6-10 hours or high for 2-4 hours.
Lemon and Mint Couscous
- 1 cup water
- 1 cup couscous
- 1 lemon (juice)
- 1 tablespoon olive oil
- 1 tablespoon mint (chopped)
- Bring the water to a boil and mix in the couscous.
- Turn off the heat, cover and let sit for 5 minutes.
- Mix the lemon juice and oil in a bowl.
- Mix the lemon and oil mixture and mint into the couscous.
Irish Lamb Stew
Apricot Lamb Tagine
Moroccan Chicken Tagine with Olives and Preserved Lemons
Artichoke and Fava Bean Tagine
Moroccan Nectarine and Plum Chicken Tagine
Moroccan Roasted Carrot and Chickpea Quinoa Salad
Ossobuco Tagine
Pumpkin and Chicken Tagine
Jamaican Style Jerk Beef Stew
Beef and Barley Soup
Cuban Picadillo
Lamb Madras


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jail(8) [freebsd man page]
JAIL(8) BSD System Manager's Manual JAIL(8) NAME
jail -- manage system jails SYNOPSIS
jail [-dhilqv] [-J jid_file] [-u username] [-U username] [-cmr] param=value ... [command=command ...] jail [-dqv] [-f conf_file] [-p limit] [-cmr] [jail] jail [-qv] [-f conf_file] [-rR] [* | jail ...] jail [-dhilqv] [-J jid_file] [-u username] [-U username] [-n jailname] [-s securelevel] [path hostname [ip[,...]] command ...] DESCRIPTION
The jail utility creates new jails, or modifies or removes existing jails. A jail (or ``prison'') is specified via parameters on the command line, or in the jail.conf(5) file. At least one of the options -c, -m or -r must be specified. These options are used alone or in combination to describe the operation to per- form: -c Create a new jail. The jail jid and name parameters (if specified on the command line) must not refer to an existing jail. -m Modify an existing jail. One of the jid or name parameters must exist and refer to an existing jail. Some parameters may not be changed on a running jail. -r Remove the jail specified by jid or name. All jailed processes are killed, and all jails that are children of this jail are also removed. -rc Restart an existing jail. The jail is first removed and then re-created, as if ``jail -r'' and ``jail -c'' were run in succession. -cm Create a jail if it does not exist, or modify the jail if it does exist. -mr Modify an existing jail. The jail may be restarted if necessary to modify parameters than could not otherwise be changed. -cmr Create a jail if it doesn't exist, or modify (and possibly restart) the jail if it does exist. Other available options are: -d Allow making changes to a dying jail, equivalent to the allow.dying parameter. -f conf_file Use configuration file conf_file instead of the default /etc/jail.conf. -h Resolve the host.hostname parameter (or hostname) and add all IP addresses returned by the resolver to the list of addresses for this jail. This is equivalent to the ip_hostname parameter. -i Output (only) the jail identifier of the newly created jail(s). This implies the -q option. -J jid_file Write a jid_file file, containing the parameters used to start the jail. -l Run commands in a clean environment. This is deprecated and is equivalent to the exec.clean parameter. -n jailname Set the jail's name. This is deprecated and is equivalent to the name parameter. -p limit Limit the number of commands from exec.* that can run simultaneously. -q Suppress the message printed whenever a jail is created, modified or removed. Only error messages will be printed. -R A variation of the -r option that removes an existing jail without using the configuration file. No removal-related parameters for this jail will be used -- the jail will simply be removed. -s securelevel Set the kern.securelevel MIB entry to the specified value inside the newly created jail. This is deprecated and is equivalent to the securelevel parameter. -u username The user name from host environment as whom jailed commands should run. This is deprecated and is equivalent to the exec.jail_user and exec.system_jail_user parameters. -U username The user name from the jailed environment as whom jailed commands should run. This is deprecated and is equivalent to the exec.jail_user parameter. -v Print a message on every operation, such as running commands and mounting filesystems. If no arguments are given after the options, the operation (except remove) will be performed on all jails specified in the jail.conf(5) file. A single argument of a jail name will operate only on the specified jail. The -r and -R options can also remove running jails that aren't in the jail.conf(5) file, specified by name or jid. An argument of ``*'' is a wildcard that will operate on all jails, regardless of whether they appear in jail.conf(5); this is the surest way for -r to remove all jails. If hierarchical jails exist, a partial-matching wildcard definition may be specified. For example, an argument of ``foo.*'' would apply to jails with names like ``foo.bar'' and ``foo.bar.baz''. A jail may be specified with parameters directly on the command line. In this case, the jail.conf(5) file will not be used. For backward compatibility, the command line may also have four fixed parameters, without names: path, hostname, ip, and command. This mode will always create a new jail, and the -c and -m options do not apply (and must not be present). Jail Parameters Parameters in the jail.conf(5) file, or on the command line, are generally of the form ``name=value''. Some parameters are boolean, and do not have a value but are set by the name alone with or without a ``no'' prefix, e.g. persist or nopersist. They can also be given the val- ues ``true'' and ``false''. Other parameters may have more than one value, specified as a comma-separated list or with ``+='' in the config- uration file (see jail.conf(5) for details). The jail utility recognizes two classes of parameters. There are the true jail parameters that are passed to the kernel when the jail is created, which can be seen with jls(8), and can (usually) be changed with ``jail -m''. Then there are pseudo-parameters that are only used by jail itself. Jails have a set a core parameters, and kernel modules can add their own jail parameters. The current set of available parameters can be retrieved via ``sysctl -d security.jail.param''. Any parameters not set will be given default values, often based on the current environ- ment. The core parameters are: jid The jail identifier. This will be assigned automatically to a new jail (or can be explicitly set), and can be used to identify the jail for later modification, or for such commands as jls(8) or jexec(8). name The jail name. This is an arbitrary string that identifies a jail (except it may not contain a '.'). Like the jid, it can be passed to later jail commands, or to jls(8) or jexec(8). If no name is supplied, a default is assumed that is the same as the jid. The name parameter is implied by the jail.conf(5) file format, and need not be explicitly set when using the configuration file. path The directory which is to be the root of the jail. Any commands run inside the jail, either by jail or from jexec(8), are run from this directory. ip4.addr A list of IPv4 addresses assigned to the jail. If this is set, the jail is restricted to using only these addresses. Any attempts to use other addresses fail, and attempts to use wildcard addresses silently use the jailed address instead. For IPv4 the first address given will be used as the source address when source address selection on unbound sockets cannot find a better match. It is only possible to start multiple jails with the same IP address if none of the jails has more than this single overlapping IP address assigned to itself. ip4.saddrsel A boolean option to change the formerly mentioned behaviour and disable IPv4 source address selection for the jail in favour of the primary IPv4 address of the jail. Source address selection is enabled by default for all jails and the ip4.nosaddrsel setting of a parent jail is not inherited for any child jails. ip4 Control the availability of IPv4 addresses. Possible values are ``inherit'' to allow unrestricted access to all system addresses, ``new'' to restrict addresses via ip4.addr, and ``disable'' to stop the jail from using IPv4 entirely. Setting the ip4.addr parame- ter implies a value of ``new''. ip6.addr, ip6.saddrsel, ip6 A set of IPv6 options for the jail, the counterparts to ip4.addr, ip4.saddrsel and ip4 above. vnet Create the jail with its own virtual network stack, with its own network interfaces, addresses, routing table, etc. The kernel must have been compiled with the VIMAGE option for this to be available. Possible values are ``inherit'' to use the system network stack, possibly with restricted IP addresses, and ``new'' to create a new network stack. host.hostname The hostname of the jail. Other similar parameters are host.domainname, host.hostuuid and host.hostid. host Set the origin of hostname and related information. Possible values are ``inherit'' to use the system information and ``new'' for the jail to use the information from the above fields. Setting any of the above fields implies a value of ``new''. securelevel The value of the jail's kern.securelevel sysctl. A jail never has a lower securelevel than its parent system, but by setting this parameter it may have a higher one. If the system securelevel is changed, any jail securelevels will be at least as secure. devfs_ruleset The number of the devfs ruleset that is enforced for mounting devfs in this jail. A value of zero (default) means no ruleset is enforced. Descendant jails inherit the parent jail's devfs ruleset enforcement. Mounting devfs inside a jail is possible only if the allow.mount and allow.mount.devfs permissions are effective and enforce_statfs is set to a value lower than 2. Devfs rules and rulesets cannot be viewed or modified from inside a jail. NOTE: It is important that only appropriate device nodes in devfs be exposed to a jail; access to disk devices in the jail may permit processes in the jail to bypass the jail sandboxing by modifying files outside of the jail. See devfs(8) for information on how to use devfs rules to limit access to entries in the per-jail devfs. A simple devfs ruleset for jails is available as ruleset #4 in /etc/defaults/devfs.rules. children.max The number of child jails allowed to be created by this jail (or by other jails under this jail). This limit is zero by default, indicating the jail is not allowed to create child jails. See the Hierarchical Jails section for more information. children.cur The number of descendants of this jail, including its own child jails and any jails created under them. enforce_statfs This determines what information processes in a jail are able to get about mount points. It affects the behaviour of the following syscalls: statfs(2), fstatfs(2), getfsstat(2), and fhstatfs(2) (as well as similar compatibility syscalls). When set to 0, all mount points are available without any restrictions. When set to 1, only mount points below the jail's chroot directory are visible. In addition to that, the path to the jail's chroot directory is removed from the front of their pathnames. When set to 2 (default), above syscalls can operate only on a mount-point where the jail's chroot directory is located. persist Setting this boolean parameter allows a jail to exist without any processes. Normally, a command is run as part of jail creation, and then the jail is destroyed as its last process exits. A new jail must have either the persist parameter or exec.start or command pseudo-parameter set. cpuset.id The ID of the cpuset associated with this jail (read-only). dying This is true if the jail is in the process of shutting down (read-only). parent The jid of the parent of this jail, or zero if this is a top-level jail (read-only). allow.* Some restrictions of the jail environment may be set on a per-jail basis. With the exception of allow.set_hostname, these boolean parameters are off by default. allow.set_hostname The jail's hostname may be changed via hostname(1) or sethostname(3). allow.sysvipc A process within the jail has access to System V IPC primitives. In the current jail implementation, System V primitives share a single namespace across the host and jail environments, meaning that processes within a jail would be able to commu- nicate with (and potentially interfere with) processes outside of the jail, and in other jails. allow.raw_sockets The jail root is allowed to create raw sockets. Setting this parameter allows utilities like ping(8) and traceroute(8) to operate inside the jail. If this is set, the source IP addresses are enforced to comply with the IP address bound to the jail, regardless of whether or not the IP_HDRINCL flag has been set on the socket. Since raw sockets can be used to config- ure and interact with various network subsystems, extra caution should be used where privileged access to jails is given out to untrusted parties. allow.chflags Normally, privileged users inside a jail are treated as unprivileged by chflags(2). When this parameter is set, such users are treated as privileged, and may manipulate system file flags subject to the usual constraints on kern.securelevel. allow.mount privileged users inside the jail will be able to mount and unmount file system types marked as jail-friendly. The lsvfs(1) command can be used to find file system types available for mount from within a jail. This permission is effective only if enforce_statfs is set to a value lower than 2. allow.mount.devfs privileged users inside the jail will be able to mount and unmount the devfs file system. This permission is effective only together with allow.mount and only when enforce_statfs is set to a value lower than 2. The devfs ruleset should be restricted from the default by using the devfs_ruleset option. allow.mount.fdescfs privileged users inside the jail will be able to mount and unmount the fdescfs file system. This permission is effective only together with allow.mount and only when enforce_statfs is set to a value lower than 2. allow.mount.nullfs privileged users inside the jail will be able to mount and unmount the nullfs file system. This permission is effective only together with allow.mount and only when enforce_statfs is set to a value lower than 2. allow.mount.procfs privileged users inside the jail will be able to mount and unmount the procfs file system. This permission is effective only together with allow.mount and only when enforce_statfs is set to a value lower than 2. allow.mount.tmpfs privileged users inside the jail will be able to mount and unmount the tmpfs file system. This permission is effective only together with allow.mount and only when enforce_statfs is set to a value lower than 2. allow.mount.zfs privileged users inside the jail will be able to mount and unmount the ZFS file system. This permission is effective only together with allow.mount and only when enforce_statfs is set to a value lower than 2. See zfs(8) for information on how to configure the ZFS filesystem to operate from within a jail. allow.quotas The jail root may administer quotas on the jail's filesystem(s). This includes filesystems that the jail may share with other jails or with non-jailed parts of the system. allow.socket_af Sockets within a jail are normally restricted to IPv4, IPv6, local (UNIX), and route. This allows access to other protocol stacks that have not had jail functionality added to them. There are pseudo-parameters that are not passed to the kernel, but are used by jail to set up the jail environment, often by running speci- fied commands when jails are created or removed. The exec.* command parameters are sh(1) command lines that are run in either the system or jail environment. They may be given multiple values, which run would the specified commands in sequence. All commands must succeed (return a zero exit status), or the jail will not be created or removed, as appropriate. The pseudo-parameters are: exec.prestart Command(s) to run in the system environment before a jail is created. exec.start Command(s) to run in the jail environment when a jail is created. A typical command to run is ``sh /etc/rc''. command A synonym for exec.start for use when specifying a jail directly on the command line. Unlike other parameters whose value is a sin- gle string, command uses the remainder of the jail command line as its own arguments. exec.poststart Command(s) to run in the system environment after a jail is created, and after any exec.start commands have completed. exec.prestop Command(s) to run in the system environment before a jail is removed. exec.stop Command(s) to run in the jail environment before a jail is removed, and after any exec.prestop commands have completed. A typical command to run is ``sh /etc/rc.shutdown''. exec.poststop Command(s) to run in the system environment after a jail is removed. exec.clean Run commands in a clean environment. The environment is discarded except for HOME, SHELL, TERM and USER. HOME and SHELL are set to the target login's default values. USER is set to the target login. TERM is imported from the current environment. The environment variables from the login class capability database for the target login are also set. exec.jail_user The user to run commands as, when running in the jail environment. The default is to run the commands as the current user. exec.system_jail_user This boolean option looks for the exec.jail_user in the system passwd(5) file, instead of in the jail's file. exec.system_user The user to run commands as, when running in the system environment. The default is to run the commands as the current user. exec.timeout The maximum amount of time to wait for a command to complete, in seconds. If a command is still running after this timeout has passed, the jail will not be created or removed, as appropriate. exec.consolelog A file to direct command output (stdout and stderr) to. exec.fib The FIB (routing table) to set when running commands inside the jail. stop.timeout The maximum amount of time to wait for a jail's processes to exit after sending them a SIGTERM signal (which happens after the exec.stop commands have completed). After this many seconds have passed, the jail will be removed, which will kill any remaining processes. If this is set to zero, no SIGTERM is sent and the jail is immediately removed. The default is 10 seconds. interface A network interface to add the jail's IP addresses (ip4.addr and ip6.addr) to. An alias for each address will be added to the inter- face before the jail is created, and will be removed from the interface after the jail is removed. ip4.addr In addition to the IP addresses that are passed to the kernel, an interface, netmask and additional paramters (as supported by ifconfig(8)) may also be specified, in the form ``interface|ip-address/netmask param ...''. If an interface is given before the IP address, an alias for the address will be added to that interface, as it is with the interface parameter. If a netmask in either dotted-quad or CIDR form is given after an IP address, it will be used when adding the IP alias. If additional parameters are speci- fied then they will also be used when adding the IP alias. ip6.addr In addition to the IP addresses that are passed to the kernel, an interface, prefix and additional parameters (as supported by ifconfig(8)) may also be specified, in the form ``interface|ip-address/prefix param ...''. vnet.interface A network interface to give to a vnet-enabled jail after is it created. The interface will automatically be released when the jail is removed. ip_hostname Resolve the host.hostname parameter and add all IP addresses returned by the resolver to the list of addresses (ip4.addr or ip6.addr) for this jail. This may affect default address selection for outgoing IPv4 connections from jails. The address first returned by the resolver for each address family will be used as the primary address. mount A filesystem to mount before creating the jail (and to unmount after removing it), given as a single fstab(5) line. mount.fstab An fstab(5) format file containing filesystems to mount before creating a jail. mount.devfs Mount a devfs(5) filesystem on the chrooted /dev directory, and apply the ruleset in the devfs_ruleset parameter (or a default of ruleset 4: devfsrules_jail) to restrict the devices visible inside the jail. mount.fdescfs Mount a fdescfs(5) filesystem on the chrooted /dev/fd directory. mount.procfs Mount a procfs(5) filesystem on the chrooted /proc directory. allow.dying Allow making changes to a dying jail. depend Specify a jail (or jails) that this jail depends on. Any such jails must be fully created, up to the last exec.poststart command, before any action will taken to create this jail. When jails are removed the opposite is true: this jail must be fully removed, up to the last exec.poststop command, before the jail(s) it depends on are stopped. EXAMPLES
Jails are typically set up using one of two philosophies: either to constrain a specific application (possibly running with privilege), or to create a ``virtual system image'' running a variety of daemons and services. In both cases, a fairly complete file system install of FreeBSD is required, so as to provide the necessary command line tools, daemons, libraries, application configuration files, etc. However, for a virtual server configuration, a fair amount of additional work is required so as to replace the ``boot'' process. This manual page documents the configuration steps necessary to support either of these steps, although the configuration steps may need to be refined based on local requirements. Setting up a Jail Directory Tree To set up a jail directory tree containing an entire FreeBSD distribution, the following sh(1) command script can be used: D=/here/is/the/jail cd /usr/src mkdir -p $D make world DESTDIR=$D make distribution DESTDIR=$D In many cases this example would put far more in the jail than needed. In the other extreme case a jail might contain only one file: the executable to be run in the jail. We recommend experimentation, and caution that it is a lot easier to start with a ``fat'' jail and remove things until it stops working, than it is to start with a ``thin'' jail and add things until it works. Setting Up a Jail Do what was described in Setting Up a Jail Directory Tree to build the jail directory tree. For the sake of this example, we will assume you built it in /data/jail/testjail, for a jail named ``testjail''. Substitute below as needed with your own directory, IP address, and host- name. Setting up the Host Environment First, set up the real system's environment to be ``jail-friendly''. For consistency, we will refer to the parent box as the ``host environment'', and to the jailed virtual machine as the ``jail environment''. Since jails are implemented using IP aliases, one of the first things to do is to disable IP services on the host system that listen on all local IP addresses for a service. If a network service is present in the host environment that binds all available IP addresses rather than specific IP addresses, it may service requests sent to jail IP addresses if the jail did not bind the port. This means changing inetd(8) to only listen on the appropriate IP address, and so forth. Add the following to /etc/rc.conf in the host environment: sendmail_enable="NO" inetd_flags="-wW -a 192.0.2.23" rpcbind_enable="NO" 192.0.2.23 is the native IP address for the host system, in this example. Daemons that run out of inetd(8) can be easily configured to use only the specified host IP address. Other daemons will need to be manually configured -- for some this is possible through rc.conf(5) flags entries; for others it is necessary to modify per-application configuration files, or to recompile the application. The following frequently deployed services must have their individual configuration files modified to limit the application to listening to a specific IP address: To configure sshd(8), it is necessary to modify /etc/ssh/sshd_config. To configure sendmail(8), it is necessary to modify /etc/mail/sendmail.cf. For named(8), it is necessary to modify /etc/namedb/named.conf. In addition, a number of services must be recompiled in order to run them in the host environment. This includes most applications providing services using rpc(3), such as rpcbind(8), nfsd(8), and mountd(8). In general, applications for which it is not possible to specify which IP address to bind should not be run in the host environment unless they should also service requests sent to jail IP addresses. Attempting to serve NFS from the host environment may also cause confusion, and cannot be easily reconfigured to use only specific IPs, as some NFS ser- vices are hosted directly from the kernel. Any third-party network software running in the host environment should also be checked and con- figured so that it does not bind all IP addresses, which would result in those services also appearing to be offered by the jail environ- ments. Once these daemons have been disabled or fixed in the host environment, it is best to reboot so that all daemons are in a known state, to reduce the potential for confusion later (such as finding that when you send mail to a jail, and its sendmail is down, the mail is delivered to the host, etc.). Configuring the Jail Start any jail for the first time without configuring the network interface so that you can clean it up a little and set up accounts. As with any machine (virtual or not), you will need to set a root password, time zone, etc. Some of these steps apply only if you intend to run a full virtual server inside the jail; others apply both for constraining a particular application or for running a virtual server. Start a shell in the jail: jail -c path=/data/jail/testjail mount.devfs host.hostname=testhostname ip4.addr=192.0.2.100 command=/bin/sh Assuming no errors, you will end up with a shell prompt within the jail. You can now run /usr/sbin/sysinstall and do the post-install con- figuration to set various configuration options, or perform these actions manually by editing /etc/rc.conf, etc. o Configure /etc/resolv.conf so that name resolution within the jail will work correctly. o Run newaliases(1) to quell sendmail(8) warnings. o Set a root password, probably different from the real host system. o Set the timezone. o Add accounts for users in the jail environment. o Install any packages the environment requires. You may also want to perform any package-specific configuration (web servers, SSH servers, etc), patch up /etc/syslog.conf so it logs as you would like, etc. If you are not using a virtual server, you may wish to modify syslogd(8) in the host environment to listen on the syslog socket in the jail environment; in this example, the syslog socket would be stored in /data/jail/testjail/var/run/log. Exit from the shell, and the jail will be shut down. Starting the Jail You are now ready to restart the jail and bring up the environment with all of its daemons and other programs. Create an entry for the jail in /etc/jail.conf: testjail { path = /tmp/jail/testjail; mount.devfs; host.hostname = testhostname; ip4.addr = 192.0.2.100; interface = ed0; exec.start = "/bin/sh /etc/rc"; exec.stop = "/bin/sh /etc/rc.shutdown"; } To start a virtual server environment, /etc/rc is run to launch various daemons and services, and /etc/rc.shutdown is run to shut them down when the jail is removed. If you are running a single application in the jail, substitute the command used to start the application for ``/bin/sh /etc/rc''; there may be some script available to cleanly shut down the application, or it may be sufficient to go without a stop command, and have jail send SIGTERM to the application. Start the jail by running: jail -c testjail A few warnings may be produced; however, it should all work properly. You should be able to see inetd(8), syslogd(8), and other processes running within the jail using ps(1), with the 'J' flag appearing beside jailed processes. To see an active list of jails, use jls(8). If sshd(8) is enabled in the jail environment, you should be able to ssh(1) to the hostname or IP address of the jailed environment, and log in using the accounts you created previously. It is possible to have jails started at boot time. Please refer to the ``jail_*'' variables in rc.conf(5) for more information. Managing the Jail Normal machine shutdown commands, such as halt(8), reboot(8), and shutdown(8), cannot be used successfully within the jail. To kill all pro- cesses from within a jail, you may use one of the following commands, depending on what you want to accomplish: kill -TERM -1 kill -KILL -1 This will send the SIGTERM or SIGKILL signals to all processes in the jail -- be careful not to run this from the host environment! Once all of the jail's processes have died, unless the jail was created with the persist parameter, the jail will be removed. Depending on the intended use of the jail, you may also want to run /etc/rc.shutdown from within the jail. To shut down the jail from the outside, simply remove it with jail -r, which will run any commands specified by exec.stop, and then send SIGTERM and eventually SIGKILL to any remaining jailed processes. The /proc/pid/status file contains, as its last field, the name of the jail in which the process runs, or ``-'' to indicate that the process is not running within a jail. The ps(1) command also shows a 'J' flag for processes in a jail. You can also list/kill processes based on their jail ID. To show processes and their jail ID, use the following command: ps ax -o pid,jid,args To show and then kill processes in jail number 3 use the following commands: pgrep -lfj 3 pkill -j 3 or: killall -j 3 Jails and File Systems It is not possible to mount(8) or umount(8) any file system inside a jail unless the file system is marked jail-friendly, the jail's allow.mount parameter is set, and the jail's enforce_statfs parameter is lower than 2. Multiple jails sharing the same file system can influence each other. For example, a user in one jail can fill the file system, leaving no space for processes in the other jail. Trying to use quota(1) to prevent this will not work either, as the file system quotas are not aware of jails but only look at the user and group IDs. This means the same user ID in two jails share a single file system quota. One would need to use one file system per jail to make this work. Sysctl MIB Entries The read-only entry security.jail.jailed can be used to determine if a process is running inside a jail (value is one) or not (value is zero). The variable security.jail.max_af_ips determines how may address per address family a jail may have. The default is 255. Some MIB variables have per-jail settings. Changes to these variables by a jailed process do not affect the host environment, only the jail environment. These variables are kern.securelevel, kern.hostname, kern.domainname, kern.hostid, and kern.hostuuid. Hierarchical Jails By setting a jail's children.max parameter, processes within a jail may be able to create jails of their own. These child jails are kept in a hierarchy, with jails only able to see and/or modify the jails they created (or those jails' children). Each jail has a read-only parent parameter, containing the jid of the jail that created it; a jid of 0 indicates the jail is a child of the current jail (or is a top-level jail if the current process isn't jailed). Jailed processes are not allowed to confer greater permissions than they themselves are given, e.g., if a jail is created with allow.nomount, it is not able to create a jail with allow.mount set. Similarly, such restrictions as ip4.addr and securelevel may not be bypassed in child jails. A child jail may in turn create its own child jails if its own children.max parameter is set (remember it is zero by default). These jails are visible to and can be modified by their parent and all ancestors. Jail names reflect this hierarchy, with a full name being an MIB-type string separated by dots. For example, if a base system process cre- ates a jail ``foo'', and a process under that jail creates another jail ``bar'', then the second jail will be seen as ``foo.bar'' in the base system (though it is only seen as ``bar'' to any processes inside jail ``foo''). Jids on the other hand exist in a single space, and each jail must have a unique jid. Like the names, a child jail's path appears relative to its creator's own path. This is by virtue of the child jail being created in the chrooted environment of the first jail. SEE ALSO
killall(1), lsvfs(1), newaliases(1), pgrep(1), pkill(1), ps(1), quota(1), jail_set(2), devfs(5), fdescfs(5), jail.conf(5), procfs(5), rc.conf(5), sysctl.conf(5), chroot(8), devfs(8), halt(8), ifconfig(8), inetd(8), jexec(8), jls(8), mount(8), named(8), procfs(5), reboot(8), rpcbind(8), sendmail(8), shutdown(8), sysctl(8), syslogd(8), umount(8) HISTORY
The jail utility appeared in FreeBSD 4.0. Hierarchical/extensible jails were introduced in FreeBSD 8.0. The configuration file was intro- duced in FreeBSD 9.1. AUTHORS
The jail feature was written by Poul-Henning Kamp for R&D Associates http://www.rndassociates.com/ who contributed it to FreeBSD. Robert Watson wrote the extended documentation, found a few bugs, added a few new features, and cleaned up the userland jail environment. Bjoern A. Zeeb added multi-IP jail support for IPv4 and IPv6 based on a patch originally done by Pawel Jakub Dawidek for IPv4. James Gritton added the extensible jail parameters, hierarchical jails, and the configuration file. BUGS
It might be a good idea to add an address alias flag such that daemons listening on all IPs (INADDR_ANY) will not bind on that address, which would facilitate building a safe host environment such that host daemons do not impose on services offered from within jails. Currently, the simplest answer is to minimize services offered on the host, possibly limiting it to services offered from inetd(8) which is easily config- urable. NOTES
Great care should be taken when managing directories visible within the jail. For example, if a jailed process has its current working directory set to a directory that is moved out of the jail's chroot, then the process may gain access to the file space outside of the jail. It is recommended that directories always be copied, rather than moved, out of a jail. In addition, there are several ways in which an unprivileged user outside the jail can cooperate with a privileged user inside the jail and thereby obtain elevated privileges in the host environment. Most of these attacks can be mitigated by ensuring that the jail root is not accessible to unprivileged users in the host environment. Regardless, as a general rule, untrusted users with privileged access to a jail should not be given access to the host environment. BSD
February 6, 2015 BSD


text:
Wednesday, March 3, 2010
Homemade English Muffins - Julia Child
From the kitchen of One Perfect Bite..."Let's not be muffin snobs; store bought are excellent." Those words were written by my beloved Julia, who then confused the issue by proferring a recipe for homemade English muffins. I, not unlike a climber who accepts the challenge of another summit simply because it's there, had to make them just to prove I could. Under normal circumstances, the recipe would have then been retired, but around that time sandwich size muffins were introduced into, and quickly disappeared from, supermarket shelves. We loved them, especially for certain types of burgers, so the recipe for English muffins was moved from inactive to active status, and I began to make them again. While these are made with yeast, no kneading is required and the batter is easy to work with. The muffins freeze well and are a great introduction to bread baking because of their kneadless nature. These days I use 5 inch rings to make large muffins, but I continue to use Julia's recipe. It's one of the best I've come across and I thought you might like to try it. Here's Julia's recipe.
Homemade English Muffins ...from the kitchen of One Perfect Bite, courtesy of Julia Child
2-1/4 teaspoons active dry yeast dissolved in 1/4 cup warm water
2 tablespoons instant mashed potatoes softened in 1/2 cup boiling water
1/2 cup cold milk
2-1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1-1/2 teaspoons salt dissolved in 3 tablespoons warm water
2 to 3 tablespoons softened butter or nonstick cooking spray
1) Place softened potatoes and milk in a large mixing bowl. Beat to combine. Stir in dissolved yeast. Add to flour and beat until a thick smooth batter forms, about 1 minute. Cover with plastic wrap and let rise until batter has risen and large bubbles appear on the surface, about 1-1/2 hours. Batter must be bubbly before proceeding.
2) Stir batter down. Add salted water and beat vigorously for about a minute. Cover with plastic wrap and let rise again until bubbles appear on surface of batter, about 1 hour.
3) Brush insides of 3-inch rings with butter or spray with nonstick cooking spray. Butter or spray surface of griddle or frying pan and set over moderate heat. When drops of water dance on surface, scoop batter into rings. Batter should be about 3/8-inch thick to produce a muffin twice that size.
4) Cook muffins slowly on one side until bubbles which form near bottom pierce through top surface and top changes to a dryish gray color, about 6 to 8 minutes depending on the heat. Turn muffins, remove rings and let cook until they are a spotty token brown, about 1 minute. Remove to a rack to completely cool. Yield 10 to 12 3-inch muffins.
You might also enjoy these recipes:
Brussels and Liege Waffles - One Perfect Bite
Crumpets - One Perfect Bite
Gluten Free Pancakes - One Perfect Bite
This post is being linked to:
Wild Yeast - Yeast Spotting
59 comments :
- Joie de vivre said...
Homemade is always the best isn't it? I can't believe Julia said not to be a snob! - March 3, 2010 at 12:02 PM
- Allie and Pattie said...
Mary, I've made these for years for the same reason- the size. My children love english muffin pizzas. I must try this recipe. I can't believe I haven't tried Julia's.
xoxo Pattie - March 3, 2010 at 12:13 PM
- Claudia said...
Despite making English muffin pizzas, English muffin hamburger platters and English muffin sandwiches - I've never made the muffins. Now, it seems do-able. Homemade is indeed always better.
- March 3, 2010 at 12:21 PM
- Farmer Jo said...
potatoes?! Who would have thought. I will have to try this version, I am loving making English muffins.
I have been making egg sandwiches on mine. - March 3, 2010 at 12:34 PM
- Big Dude said...
This is a whole different concept from the ones I just made. I look forward to trying it for my next batch - thanks for posting it.
- March 3, 2010 at 12:36 PM
- Mary | Deep South Dish said...
Gotta love Julia!! I love English muffins just plain toasted with butter to creep in those little nooks and crannies. Yours look perfect.
- March 3, 2010 at 12:59 PM
- Michelle said...
Hi Mary,
Oh I love english muffins and can't wait to try this recipe. Thank you as always. - March 3, 2010 at 1:03 PM
- La Bella Cooks said...
instant mashed potatoes? I definitely want to see what these are all about. That is an interesting addition and one I have not had before.
- March 3, 2010 at 1:19 PM
- Ashleigh said...
Thank you for this recipe...
- March 3, 2010 at 1:19 PM
- Bob said...
Mmmm, homemade english muffins. Good times.
- March 3, 2010 at 1:39 PM
- Tuty @ Scentofspice said...
Greetings from my kitchen :)
I just made the English Muffins the day before yesterday. Homemade version has become our family favorite too. - March 3, 2010 at 2:45 PM
- ♥Sugar♥Plum♥Fairy♥ said...
Well this one i sure did wait for when u mentioned it on ur other post.....cant wait to get my hands ....on muffins as these right outa my oven....but before that am off to look for that instant active dry yeast that i never find:-))))))
- March 3, 2010 at 2:58 PM
- Anna said...
Hi Mary, the english muffin looks delicious, I love your site, the header is stunning. :-)
- March 3, 2010 at 3:21 PM
- Ms. Meanie said...
Lovely blog. You have some great recipes. These English Muffins look/sound amazing. I love Julia Child!
- March 3, 2010 at 3:27 PM
- Eileen said...
Wonderful! Thank you for sharing.
- March 3, 2010 at 3:37 PM
- Ivy said...
Thanks for taking time to pass from my blog. They sound delicious. I only found out about English muffins recently and the history behind them. I think they are perfect for breakfast.
- March 3, 2010 at 4:00 PM
- SnoWhite said...
those look wonderful!
- March 3, 2010 at 4:18 PM
- Martha said...
I love English mufins and I'm a Wolferman's girl -- and have never tried to make my own! But these don't look that hard and I LOVE English mufins!
- March 3, 2010 at 4:44 PM
- Hungry Dog said...
These look picture-perfect! I'll have to try making them sometime. Thank you for posting!
- March 3, 2010 at 5:14 PM
- Lorraine @ Not Quite Nigella said...
Ahh I've always wanted to make these-I think the freshly cooked ones would be extraordinary especially since the bought ones sit on the shelf for a while. Thanks for sharing the recipe! :)
- March 3, 2010 at 5:30 PM
- Cookin' Canuck said...
Look at those perfect English muffins! These look far better than the ones I find in the store.
- March 3, 2010 at 5:32 PM
- JG said...
Homemade English Muffins are the best! When my sons were young, my trips to the grocery store were always planned and we just enjoyed our English Muffins. I made them in loaf pans, sliced the loaf & into the freezer they went.
I'll be baking these, too. Thanks! - March 3, 2010 at 5:58 PM
- Lyndas recipe box said...
I've used English muffins for so many things, but I've not tried making my own. It sounds so easy, so I'll have to give it a try. Thanks Mary for another great recipe!
- March 3, 2010 at 6:09 PM
- Karen said...
I love to make English Muffins. I like the look of these - more nooks and crannies than my last batch had. I'm going to give them a try :)
- March 3, 2010 at 6:21 PM
- Debbie said...
These look delicious. I have never had a homemade English muffin and could only imagine how good these must taste....
- March 3, 2010 at 6:45 PM
- Joyce said...
I have made English Muffin bread in the past but not this recipe from Julia. Problem is I love Thomas English muffins and usually eat more then one so I can't keep them in the house or I will be as big as a house:)
Joyce - March 3, 2010 at 7:09 PM
- Claudia said...
Chocolate and zucchini's Clotilde recently posted about sourdough crumpets (which I believe are the same)and I've been waiting for some proper tins - the old tuna can thing won't work anymore as the bottoms can't be cut out these days. But a store clerk who knew I was looking, showed me Stuffed Grape leaves cans, which are 4" - so perfect for us. Soon it will happen.
- March 3, 2010 at 7:24 PM
- Joie de vivre said...
Thanks for visiting. I'm trying to stay healthy. So far, so good. :) - March 3, 2010 at 7:30 PM
- Haden News said...
I love English Muffins, but have never made my own! Thanks for sharing Julia's recipe :)
- March 3, 2010 at 7:46 PM
- Lori said...
I would like to try this. Lately I have not been in a bread baking mood despite craving some homemade bread. I guess I am wanting someone else to make it for me. he he. Wont happen. This is the next best thing though, no knead certainly makes it way more appealing
- March 3, 2010 at 9:29 PM
- gekchoo said...
I am from Malaysia.Love to try this recipe.Just 1 Q,is instant yeast=active dry yeast?Thank you.
Paulchoo - March 3, 2010 at 9:32 PM
- Chef Aimee said...
I love the quote! But wow what a great recipe for homemade nooks and crannies! ;)
- March 3, 2010 at 9:55 PM
- Mary Bergfeld said...
gekchoo, they can be used in the say way. Just follow the directions in the recipe and all will be fine. I hope you'll visit with us often. You're always welcome here.
- March 3, 2010 at 10:15 PM
- 3 hungry tummies said...
The photo says it all! I can hear the crunch of biting into the toasted english muffin!
- March 3, 2010 at 10:43 PM
- Susan said...
I have never tried to make english muffins. I will have to give this recipe a try. :)
- March 3, 2010 at 10:50 PM
- Unknown said...
Mary, thanks for reminding me of Julia's English muffins. I had just about given up making my own..time and all. Hope you are well...haven't heard from you in awhile so I was just checking. Your blog continues to be a beautiful gift to us all.
- March 3, 2010 at 10:52 PM
- La Cuisine d'Helene said...
Looking at yours you encourage me to make this recipe. I'm sure nothing beats freshly baked English Muffins.
- March 3, 2010 at 11:19 PM
- Michelle A'etonu said...
Hi Mary! Thanks for commenting on my blog! Your blog is awesome and everything looks delicious! I need to get back to cooking and baking again!
- March 3, 2010 at 11:34 PM
- theUngourmet said...
I've been wanting to make English muffins for a while now. The potato flakes are interesting in here! I bet they taste wonderful!
- March 3, 2010 at 11:57 PM
- Mickey said...
Never have tried making these but you sure make it look easy. Those look perfect!
- March 4, 2010 at 12:10 AM
- Elisa said...
This looks too easy!Thanks Julia=) and Mary for sharing it was us.
Mashed potatoes..interesting - March 4, 2010 at 1:22 AM
- Zurin said...
nothing like homemade...:))
- March 4, 2010 at 1:31 AM
- Deb in Hawaii said...
I have always wanted to try making English muffins--yours look just perfect!
- March 4, 2010 at 4:01 AM
- Chef E said...
I can see the allure of mastering making something like this...I love english muffins, my breakfast bread of choice!
Muffin Pizza's! - March 4, 2010 at 10:18 AM
- Liesl said...
I love English Muffins! I need to try making my own sometime! Yours look so perfect!
- March 4, 2010 at 11:46 AM
- The Diva on a Diet said...
Homemade English muffins have been on my "to make" list for ages now ... one of those things I mean to do but never get to it. Will have to remedy that. I love the ease of the recipe and your photo is so inviting!
By the way, I love the name of your blog! :)
Thanks so much for your kind comment on my blog. Its lovely to meet you and I'll be following you too! - March 4, 2010 at 2:05 PM
- Federica Simoni said...
buonissima questa ricetta!
- March 4, 2010 at 4:19 PM
- S said...
You did Julia proud with these, Mary!
- March 5, 2010 at 12:11 AM
- My Little Space said...
Oh Im about to make these too! My children love to have this with scrambled eggs & ham!
- March 5, 2010 at 1:50 AM
- shahana said...
I love english muffins and i cant wait to try this out!
- March 5, 2010 at 5:49 AM
- Deeba PAB said...
Simple and ever so delightful!
- March 5, 2010 at 12:21 PM
- hobby baker Kelly said...
They look perfectly scrumptious!
- March 5, 2010 at 1:27 PM
- Michelle | Bleeding Espresso said...
Will definitely be making these as English muffins simply don't exist in Italy; thanks for sharing!
- March 5, 2010 at 3:58 PM
- Katy ~ said...
Grins. I am a muffin snob. I would much prefer these any day!
- March 6, 2010 at 8:24 AM
- Mary Bergfeld said...
Mike, the recipe I've used comes from Julia Child and Company. While I can't pretend to know what was in her mind, Julia used boiling water to dissolve the instant potatoes. I always assumed the cold milk was to get the potatoes to a temperature that would not kill the yeast. If the potatoes were allowed to cool, cold milk would be a problem and would retard the action of the yeast. So, if the potatoes are hot, use cold milk. If they are at room temperature use tepid milk. I've made these for years and I think you really like them. Have a great day. Blessings...Mary
- April 19, 2011 at 5:49 PM
- Nan said...
Thank you so much for this! I've copied and pasted it into a folder to make soon. I'm always happy to come upon Julia's non-meat recipes since I am a vegetarian.
- June 10, 2011 at 11:09 AM
- Mary Bergfeld said...
I have received another anonymous comment from someone who says this recipe does not work. First, this is an exact copy of Julia's recipe and it can be found on pages 166- 167 of Julia Child and Company. I've made these over and over again, most recently on Valentine's Day, so I know the recipe works. I would ask the anonymous writer to email me and together we can go through the steps of the recipe to see what might have gone wrong on their end. We do aim to please. Have a great day. Blessings...Mary
- February 23, 2012 at 6:05 PM
- Unknown said...
Thank you so much for posting this recipe. It's just what I'm looking for. I'm stumped though. I made this recipe and ended up with a dough, not batter. I thought maybe I measured wrong, so I tried again. Nope, dough, not batter. So I googled Julia Child's English Muffins. I came across another website with a different variation of this recipe that calls for more liquid...,http://www.kitchensaremonkeybusiness.com/2011/04/rosie-makes-julia-childs-homemade.html.
Are you sure it's 1/2 C milk? Or is that a typo? - April 26, 2014 at 11:08 AM
- Mary Bergfeld said...
Sarah, I'm sorry you had trouble with the recipe. We have just moved, so please forgive my delay in responding. I had to find the box the book was stored in. The recipe comes from Julia Child and Company and Julia's recipe in that book calls for 1/2 cup milk, so the measurement is not a typo. In her comments on the recipe Julia says, "Batter should be heavy, sticky, sluggish, but not runny, having just enough looseness to spread out into the ring - if you think it is too thick, beat in tepid water by driblets."
- April 26, 2014 at 11:51 AM


text:
Dancing With Goddesses: Archetypes, Poetry, and Empowerment. Indiana University Press
Incriminations: Guilty Women/Telling Stories. Princeton University Press
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text:
may help cut heart disease risk
NEW YORK | Thu May 9,
2013 3:50pm EDT
(Reuters) - Anyone wanting to live longer and cut their risk
of suffering from heart disease might want to consider getting a pet.
The American Heart Association (AHA) issued a scientific
statement on Thursday saying owning a pet may help to decrease a person's risk
of suffering from heart disease and is linked with lower levels of obesity,
blood pressure and cholesterol.
"Pet ownership, particularly dog ownership, is probably
associated with a decreased risk of heart disease," Glenn N. Levine, a
professor at Baylor College of Medicine in Houston, said in a statement.
A study of more than 5,200 adults, cited by the AHA, showed
dog owners were more physically active than non-owners because they walk their
pets. Other research has revealed the calming effects of pets, which are used
in animal-assisted therapy programs.
Levine, the chairman of the committee that wrote the
statement published online in the journal Circulation, added that the benefits
are clear on cutting the risk factors for heart disease. But the studies are
not definitive or prove that owning a pet directly causes a reduction in heart
disease risk.
"What's less clear is whether the act of adopting or
acquiring a pet could lead to a reduction in cardiovascular risk in those with
pre-existing disease," he said, adding more research is needed.
About 78.2 million people in the United States own a dog and
86.4 million have a cat, according to figures from the American Pet Product
Association 2011-2012 National Pet Owners Survey.
Research has shown that the loyalty and love pets
display can reduce stress, anxiety, depression and loneliness in their owners
and increase their sense of well-being and self-esteem.
(Reporting by Patricia Reaney; Editing
by Marguerita Choy)


text:
Shockingly, nobody is looking for any more crack party planning advice from Pippa Middleton since her book Celebrate made a fart noise that echoed throughout the publishing industry (although tips like "Make ice!!!" are extremely helpful), her following two book offers—one on wedding planning and another on children's' parties—have been rescinded. She is now unemployed, embarrassed and "fed up" with being controlled by the Royal Family. Ughhhhh, Kate, Kate, Kate!
However, things aren't all bad. She has been schmoozing with wealthy Belgian boar-hunting siblings Cedric and William Frere. "She's undeniably skilled at engineering her way into the right circles, and these Belgian boys are another example of her skills. She's having a ball!" SO WATCH OUT, BOARS. On days like these, when the biggest celebrity item is the size and shape of Pippa Middleton's latest bowel movement, I wish I could trade writing for boar hunting. But that's the way the cookie crumbles. [Showbiz Spy, Celebrity Dirty Laundry]
Although rumor has it that Robert Pattinson has finally dumped Kristen Stewart for good after an awkward, unfriendly New Year spent with his protective friends and family, Stewpatz have ranked as the highest-grossing on-screen couple in Hollywood out of the last three years, Twilight having made $3.3 billion since it hit the big screen.
Following those two were Rachel McAdams/Channing Tatum; Natalie Portman/Ashton Kutcher and fellow real-life duo Miley Cyrus/Liam Hemsworth. So basically, if Stewpatz splits, every tween and stunted adult Twilight fan is the petulant child of divorce who will totally start dressing Goth. [Marie Claire UK]
You'd think that your self-inflicted misfortunes would become clear to you after The New York Times writes a 5,000 word piece about it, and yet Lindsay Lohan continues to choose her choices poorly: she Instagrammed a coy little shot of herself and The Wanted band member Max George, who she trained her fucksights on a few months ago, in what appears to be a bedroom? Is this proof? Does anyone care? It's mostly just kind of sad because:
George has been publicly dismissive of the redheaded train wreck, calling her a "groupie" and saying, "She was good to party with, but there's definitely not going to be any babies on the horizon."
🙁 LiLo also turned down a $550,000 offer to do Dancing With The Stars—which, let's face it, was crazy to offer her a regular gig in the first place. [Page Six, TMZ]
The Two Best Photobombs of President Obama's Inauguration
Bill Clinton and Kelly Clarkson Edition:
And Malia Obama and her Mom and Dad Edition. [Us Weekly]
Game Of Thrones Season 3 teaserrrr. [HuffPo]
- Rihanna tipped a waiter at the Laugh Factory $200. (But that still doesn't make having to hear Dane Cook's set worth it.) [TMZ]
- Meanwhile, Chris Brown got "swatted," the newest microtrend in annoying celebrities/Los Angeles cops. [TMZ]
- Real Housewives of Beverly Hills "star" Adrienne Maloof is dating Rod Stewart's son Sean. [TMZ]
- Zayn Malik has a dubious new hairstyle. [4tnz]
- Mark-Paul Gosselaar is calling for a Saved By The Bell spinoff. [TMZ]
- Bobbi Kristina got herself a new Lexus and will try not to crash it thrice like she did her old Camaro. [TMZ]
- Joseph Gordon-Levitt's movie Don Jon's Addiction has sold to Relativity after its Sundance premiere. [Vulture]
- Sheryl Crow says that if her ex Lance Armstrong kept his doping secret any longer, it would have been "devastating." [CBS News]
- Pam Anderson will appear as a contestant on Holland's Dancing On Ice. [Express]
- Anderson Cooper is considering leaving CNN if he's replaced by Ann Curry.
- Taylor Swift flew to London, reportedly to "talk" to Harry Styles. [The Sun]
- Angelina Jolie's kids' poop keeps Angelina Jolie grounded, or something. [Showbiz Spy]
- My thirteen-year-old self would be DYYYINGGGG about Michelle Kwan's wedding dress. [People]
- This picture! Of Drew Barrymore and her daughter Olive in a lobster costume! [Us Weekly]
- Liam Hemsworth and Miley Cyrus went to Costa Rica. [Us Weekly]
- James Franco wrote a terrible poem about President Obama. [The Frisky]
- The end of an era: Britney Spears removed her $90,000 engagement ring. [TMZ]
- Amanda Seyfried looks delightfully seventies as Linda Lovelace in the Deep Throat biopic. [NYDN]
- Once upon a time, Joe and Nick Jonas told some fans to scram: "We do so much for you, and you want a picture? Get out of here." 🙁 [Radar Online]
- My mom's boyfriend Jamie Oliver has a YouTube cooking channel now called FoodTube. Mmmmm, food tube. [NYDN]
- "Blowmeo and Juliet." A++++ [NYDN]


text:
World's Ugliest Dog Is So Ugly He May Actually Be Cute
Ugly has never been so beautiful.
Walle, a combination beagle, boxer and bassett hound took top honors at the World's Ugliest Dog Contest last Friday in Petaluma, California.
The four-year-old mutt out-uglied 30 other dogs, with one judge saying he's a canine version of Frankenstein:
This dog looked like he's been photo-shopped with pieces from various dogs and maybe a few other animals."
Walle, who also won because of his unusual walk, ended a stretch of victories in recent years by Chihuahuas and Chinese cresteds that would make you do a double take if you saw the them on the street.
Walle's crowning achievement should pay big dividends -- literally. He won $1,500 and will make a slew of TV appearances this week.
Not everybody agrees with Walle taking the title, though. A Facebook group has been created, claiming he is not the ugliest dog in the world. We have to agree. Compared to past years' winners, there is a decidedly un-Muppet like quality to Walle. (Remember 2012's winner, Mugly?)
Check out some photos and video of other pooches in the competition and decide for yourself if Walle did indeed deserve to win or if the other pups got robbed.


text:
Guest Post, Donald Edwards – Missing the wood for the trees
Guest Post – There are so many great wine blogs out there in the blogosphere. These guest posts are an effort to introduce you to my fellow wine bloggers, people who's blogs I enjoy reading and who I've meet up with over a glass or two. This week's post is from Paris based, English blogger, Donald Edwards, on a subject that is a "tiny" bit controversial in the wine world…
This is a plea for calm, there have been too many angry words spoken on the subject, far too many self serving blog posts where authors try to argue down to the finest philosophical minutia that their particular taste in wine is the only correct and applicable one.
In a sense this reminds me of the issues inherent in much of moral or religious philosophy. The person doing the arguing has made up their mind in advance, and is thus trying to justify what they believe to be the case. So building an argument backwards towards fundamental principles. Now anyone who's ever read any religious philosophy will be well aware of the almost laughable logical paradoxes that get thrown up. Remind me again what the three different sorts of eternity are again.
I am of course talking about natural wines. A term I'm going to use, then discard, as I prefer authentic as a moniker. Yes there is no strict set of rules regulating exactly what can and can't be done in the production of authentic wine. Of course there isn't. It's merely a group of growers (supplemented by cavists, restauranteurs, and some writers) who are all seeking to express their little patch of land in as authentic a way as possible.
Many of them hold very strong views regarding their stewardship of the land, they care for their soil and are working to pass on the land to their children in better shape than they found it, as such most are organic or practice biodynamics. Some, where necessary will spray, it's one thing having solid moral principles, but one can't always eat them for breakfast. It is exceedingly rare to find any new oak in their wines, principally because the taste is so dominant. Rather like covering everything you eat in tomato ketchup. Don't get me wrong there is a time and a place for ketchup (bacon sandwiches) just as there is for new oak (I can't imagine some of the top Bordelais wines without it, mind you I can't afford any of the top Bordelais wines, so it's best I keep working on my imagination).
Now much of the ire that is directed at the natural wine scene is on account of two little words. Pet Nat, or petillant naturelle, these are the sparkling wine that have been made in the old style, bottling them while the ferment is still active so that the primary fermentation leaves a degree of dissolved carbon dioxide in the bottle. I love them, I love their unreliability, I love their quirkiness, I don't really mind that some of them dance merrily over the convention and recommended levels of volatility and oxidative character. I appreciate that they're not for everyone. However, and this is a massive however. They are a tiny part of the authentic wine world. What's more they're perishingly easy to avoid.
Josmeyer, Nikolaihof, Jean-Charles Abbatucci, Clot de L'Oum, Gerard Gauby, Larmandier, Jean-Michel Deiss, Phillipe Pacalet, Marcel Lapierre. They're all authentic growers, they all approach the problem of how to get the very best out of their terroirs with integrity and a huge degree of intelligence. Yet more often than not they're excluded from the authentic wine argument because their wines are already on the lists of the great and the good, their wines don't conform to stereotype that detractors wish to promote.
So let's all calm down, pour a glass of something and let's try to focus on whether we like it rather than tearing chunks out of each other over levels of active sulphur.
2 Comments
love the work…. While I know Donald, I haven't followed his blog for reasons that escape me, I really like his work. Back on board now Thank you
Glad you rediscovered Donald's blog! That's why I wanted to have guest posting, to expose bloggers who might have slipped under the radar.