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Tuesday, August 10, 2010
Do You Have a Color?
The concept of "having one's colors done" is a fascinating one, too. The Color Me Beautiful phenomenon took place in the 80s, and I was lucky enough to have a color analysis as a Girl Scout. (I think that was my favorite scouting activity ever . . . way better than camping.) I was proclaimed a "winter" and was told that I would look best in an ivory wedding dress since white would wash me out. (Truthfully, I did not end up following that advice when the time came; I went with the starkest, snowiest white I could find.) I seem to recall the CMB lady promising all sorts of things if you just wore "your colors:" romance, career success, eternal youth. No wonder we get so attached to our colors!
I bring up this idea because while I have always stuck to blue-based jewel tones, I find myself enamored of a different color lately, one that's way out of my comfort zone. Namely: saffron. Also known as marigold and perhaps mustard. (Perhaps I'm working up to this color with the pale yellow frock I'm currently working on?)
Remember Michelle Williams's 2006 Oscar Dress? (Best. Dress. EVER.)
I so want to wear this color. But it screams "autumn" to me, not "winter." But I will be oppressed by this color tyranny no longer! Mark my words, readers. Mark my words.
I've been trying to get myself used to some saffron-y goodness by draping myself in bolts of fabric (the guys at Mood seem to find this vaguely amusing). And I'm warming up to taking the plunge. The thing about sewing, though, is that you're making a pretty big commitment to a color by buying fabric and making up a project. It's not like running to American Apparel or Forever 21 and paying under $20 for something that you'll just throw away if it's not for you in the long run.
So . . . how do you get out of a color rut? Or, like Peg Boggs, do you stick to the tried and true?
75 comments:
I too am contemplating taking the plunge into making something in saffron (although I've been calling it mustard)... I keep seeing lots of women wearing this colour and I have begun to obsess out of making a skirt or top in this colour, because as a 'spring'(My mum went through a phase of CMB too...) i'm not sure I can carry a head to toe mustard/saffron look!
ReplyDeleteI tend to go through color phases and I ride it out and figure that each one will build upon each other.
Recently I did a lot of sea-colored (blue, teals) shades, then deep purples, now I'm in a strong yellow phase. If I keep going long enough I'll end up with a well-rounded color wardrobe.I totally agree with you about how once you get going on a project you've made the commitment. I don't sew alot, but I worked on something recently that was black and silver, because that was the best fit for the concept. I am an autumn though and I was so worried it would look horrendous on me. It has turned out really well though. Maybe it's the make-up I wear when I wear it, but there are definitely paths out of the color tyranny. I bet you're on one with your saffron dress.
ReplyDeleteThe whole color thing is true, though. Everyone has colors they look good in and colors they don't. I don't look good in red, but I do in hot pink. I despise royal blue, but the other blues works for me as long as they aren't true pastels because pastels wash me out. I look better in white than I do in black. Even my makeup used to look different on me in the summer than winter when I used to wear it. There is legitimacy in the "getting colors done" thing.
Now, that being said. If there is a color you want to wear, just find a version of it that looks good on you. It's a way for folks to be more thoughtful in the way they present themselves.
PeaceI'm a winter type, and cold, bold colors suit me much better than the pale ones. However, I really like almost all colors, and I try to wear them all. Well, except for khaki, and baby blue - I hate these two colors! Khaki is just an ugly color to me, and I look sick in it. On the other side, baby blue is a color with lack of personality (if a color can have personality?).
I wear olive green frequently, as well as various shades of purple. I also love white and most of my tees and shirts are snow white.
Funny thing - I like red as well, but I don't have many red garments. When waring it, I usually combine red with white, and a lot of my jewelery is in shades of red.- AnonymousAugust 10, 2010 at 7:40 AM
I love that dress and that film. I recently surprised myself by buying some mustard linen for a blouse. It wasn't a success as a make, but I did like the colour. I wore navy blue for the first time this year since leaving behind my school uniform. I've also discovered 'grey' as a colour. I don't know why! I love all the different colours you can experiment with as a Sewist. I have just started fantasising about making a red needle cord skirt to go with a new blue and white jumper I recently bought in the sales. I could go on and on...
ReplyDelete I tend to stick to "my" end of the spectrum (blues, greens, violets, and blue-toned greys and blacks) not just because I'm a goth, or I'm a winter (though I am both those things) but also because anything with a yellow undertone, including orangey reds and most browns, really truly does make me look as though I am expiring slowly from a terrible liver disease. Last I checked, 'jaundiced' isn't really fashionable on anyone.
Freya's idea of a single piece in the colour is a good one, though, especially a skirt if the colour in question wouldn't suit your complexion.Ha, funny, I always have the impression that the colors you wear are too hard on you and I would love to see you in softer colors, so I definitely vote for you trying the saffron! It's a gorgeous color anyway :)
Honestly I never gave much thought to the colors of my clothes until I wanted to start sewing. I figured I had to know whether the color would suit me before sewing the whole thing up, so I got interested in the Color Me Beautiful stuff. I haven't made or bought a lot of new clothes since having my colors done though, so I don't know what to think about it yet. But I think it would definitely be a change!
I don't really see it as a tyranny though, more as an opportunity: it makes me want to try colors I never tried before, because I was used to not really liking them.
I also wonder how much the clothes you wear as a child / that were bought for you by someone else still have an influence on the colors you wear?Edward Scissorhnands was too much! Peg and her Avon remedies to fix him up-very funny. Just a suggestion, but maybe you could purchase a rather inexpensive but pretty item in saffron and wear it for a while before you commit to the more expensive fabric. It would give you a chance to decide whether or not you "love" the color on you or just "love" the color on others. Just a thought.
ReplyDeleteLately that same shade of saffron has been appealing to me too! Alas, I cannot wear it, and am doomed to just admire it on gals who can pull it off. ;) (It tends to make me look sickly.) It's such a drool-worthy color though!!!! I say break free of the seasonal-color-hang up! lol. This shade of yellow is so striking and I think would be an amazing color to work with.
I remember poring over my mother's copy of CMB when I was a teen, determined to figure out what season I was! At first, I thought I was a fall, but my coloring changed a bit halfway through my teen years, and I'm a weird mishmash of multiple seasons. At this point, I just try to wear what looks good with my skin tone, instead of getting caught up in trying to pigeonhole myself. ;) lol.
Red is a color I easily get in a rut with; its one that a lot of people compliment me on when I'm wearing it. Likewise with medium range blues; as evidenced by the amount of blue I've been sewing with this year! Yikes! I lately have been determined to try out some other colors: namely bring more jewel tones back into my wardrobe (rich teals, purples, sapphire blues, and deeper garnet red--rather than my usual "fire engine" red), as well as branch out with some lighter shades. Which is funny, since I've never liked light colors too much (beyond pink), but have lately found some lovely shades of aqua that bring out my eyes.
Even though I'm trying to get out of my red/white/blue hangup I've developed this summer (hey, it works, despite the obvious patriotic connotations ;), most of the colors I'm looking to introduce back into the mix are colors that I've worn before with success. So I guess I'm not really getting out of a rut per-se--just expanding my "color rut" a bit! lol. Although I'd love to find a shade of yellow/gold I can wear; I just haven't found the one that works best with my skin yet...
♥ Casey
blog | elegantmusings.comI recently had my colours done and was quite chuffed with the results. I can't remember exactly what I am (left my little book of swatches at home today!) but it has helped me look at colours of clothes differently. I now actually wear purple! I never would have before thinking it was too dark for me. But it looks good and its sort of become my new black.
If I remember correctly, it was all about reflection upwards. So, you still may be able to get away with the saffron. Just try to get a colour that you know suits you up near your face and have the saffron away from your face. Maybe a scarf or a collar in say a portrait style?
Good luck and I hope to see a dress in saffron soon!I'm definitely in the winter/spring category, but I wear orange, green,and brown enough that I firmly believe there should be a shade of every color that you find you can wear. However yellow is a challenge- but worth it since I light up when I see people wearing yellow. I think that if you wear colors that make you happy, that you can find that you can pull them off. However, there's always that rogue photograph that will prove us wrong..(hee)
ReplyDelete- purpleshoesAugust 10, 2010 at 8:34 AM
Hah, I was raised in a Color Me Beautiful household. Think I'm joking? My mother had our colors done early enough that my brother's blankie is crocheted in the right season. Which is Spring.
I've always respected Color Me Beautiful just because of how it simplifies the lives of non-shoppers - as a summer, I spent years asking myself "Is it blue? Does it fit? Okay, I own a shirt now!". At the same time, just like deciding that you're a Sensing Introvert and never pursuing an Intuitive Extrovert hobby, it can really get you into a rut, and what's the worst that happens if you wear a color that isn't ideal? You look either ruddy or sallow, unless your makeup or outfit contrast with it. Meh. Worse has happened, right?
I will say, though, that I have three yards of lovely mustard-yellow vintage french sateen waiting to be made into a skirt, and I'm not sure I'll sew it until I find the perfect cyan fabric or top to wear with it. Because an entire outfit with no blue is just not to be thought of. does grey count as a color?
what I wear depends very much on what I'm doing and the time of years - dress/work clothes in colder weather are pretty much in the neutral range (black, grey, taupes) while casual clothes tend towards darker, muddy hues (army green, navy, pumpkin)
In warmer months, the nice stuff tends towards neutral tones again, with more ivory thrown in, and casual clothes explode into just about anything and everything.
Every time I wore deep blue or green to work, people would tell me how great it looked on me, but I prefer my clothes to be more subtle, and less statement making - what can I say, I like to be invisible! :)You know, I just have a different colour for each mood. When I wake up in the morning (seriously) I just 'feel like' green today, or red, or grey or whatever. I don't know how to explain it, but in effect you'll se a whole rainbow inside my closet. I need to be prepared for whatever colour I might feel like. I have grown more fond of certain ones that I feel suit my skin tone best, but still I just can't get myself to wear the same colour two days in a row... Yellow is my all-time favorite colour though, and I'll always be in love with the yellow dress I wore to prom!
ReplyDeleteI have also been grappling with this subject - I have to plan an entire corporate work wardrobe for the new year, and really want to get colours that make me look fresh, and that go with each other. This turns out to be more of a challenge than I anticipated. Too bad I don't know if I'm a summer or a spring! Maybe it is worth investing in this....
ReplyDelete- AnonymousAugust 10, 2010 at 9:21 AM
I don't necessarily believe in "getting one's colours done" as a be-all-and-end-all. However, I had colour "families" recommended to me by a personal shopper who I had help me pare down my wardrobe and explain what kind of clothes were best for my shape, lifestyle, etc (which was a VERY worthwhile exercise!)
And the colour family has made a difference. Like you, Gertie, I am solidly in the so-called "winter" group— dark hair, pale complexion, cool-hued rather than warm. I have a penchant for wearing navy and white stripes.. but that's another story.
BUT, I don't see how the rich saffron yellow you're describing is at odds with the winter colours! It's rich, bright, and bold, like the reds, jewel tones, turquoises, etc that I (and you, I think) are fond of.
The best litmus test: as long as you feel like yourself while wearing the colour, go for it. And if it's right, it will have longevity in your wardrobe. I would say red is also my colour. Not only have I always loved the shade, I love its powerful, conflicting symbolism. Right AND left, love AND violence. (Sadly my husband dislikes it, so the amount in my wardrobe has dwindled over the last decade). Also, finding the right red is key.
I, too, was draped as a child, and while sometimes I like knowing I'm a "spring", mostly I can't say this did me much good. As a child, it made me afraid to wear certain colours. It wasn't until my late teens that I finally gave myself "permission" to wear black or white (and I was mostly hanging out with goths at that point). It was wonderfully freeing. While I know a few autumns (my mother included) who absolutely shine in their "appropriate" colours, for the rest I have a harder time differentiating. Or caring.
I think most of us gravitate towards shades that flatter us anyway, at least if we are paying attention. And if we're not, a little swatch booklet is not really going to solve the situation. ;)I love yellow, but don't wear it well, so I've lots of it in my home. I'm surprised by how much blue I wear, but I think many blues are universally wearable. When I want to feel energized, or jazzy, or sexy, I wear red. "My colors" are whatever appeal to me at the moment, make me smile when I look in the mirror and put a spring in my step. If you want to wear mustard, go for it. Rethink you lipstick if you like, but follow your heart.
ReplyDelete- AnonymousAugust 10, 2010 at 9:47 AM
Try that saffron yellow, lady. I have a feeling you'll look amazing in it.
Red is my color, too, and I'm similarly possessive. I've been told I'm a winter and an autumn, and basically believe that color rules are a form of tyranny. Yes, some colors will look better than others ... but you'll never know for sure which ones they'll be until you TRY them! Like Tanits said, I think we gravitate towards "our" colors ... especially if we sew and are aware of how things look. I'm also a winter per CMB, and IIRC, pure white is supposed to look good on us, better than ivory. I've always favored white gold jewelry and bold jewel tones, which are what "winters" are supposed to wear.
That said, I think it's fine to break the mold now and then. I tend to avoid yellow near my face because it makes me look sallow. But maybe I will make that yellow sheath dress, and just be sure to wear a deep green scarf at the neckline! Or put a white collar on it ...Ha! I'm a red-head with my very boring-black 20's not too far behind me, so my wardrobe has been black, black, black, dark green, brown, orange - basically fall (redhead) colors (but no mustard!!)
Lately, I've been more drawn to COLOR!! AND, to mustard - it's the color for fall, afterall, at least, according to Pantone!
A few months ago I bought an awesome mustard cardigan from new York and Co (http://www.ma-petite-chou.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/Chelsea-Cardigan-Rosette.jpg) - NOT my usual store, they were in the front window and cute so I went in and bought one (and subsequently went back for the green and ivory ones, I LOVE this cardigan!! although I do not rock it with the ginormous turquoise beads or white pants...)
Anyway - that started me on mustard - and in an effort to get back to work (laid off two years ago, enjoying being a stay at home puppy mom a little TOO much!) and try to do something different than my endless collection of dark, pinstriped work-suits, I put together a whole mustard wardrobe for the fall wardrobe contest at pattern review!! (to see the ongoing saga.... http://thesnugbug.blogspot.com/)Yay for mustard!
Also, I recently bought a completely gorgeous piece of wool that's halfway between teal and emerald to make Vogue 8648 - it will look GREAT with my hair, but everytime I see it in my fabric cabinet it just looks so wierd! So bright!! So not black or dark green!
I have a few other friends around the same age as me and we are all going through the same thing - a decade spent in black whatever we could find and now we are positively blooming into tropical flowers! Yay for our 30's!
I think a lot of people just get into their color space and it's visually comforting. We don't like things that jar us. I learned from picking colors for quilts that it's important to pick one "ugly" color - not really ugly, but a color I usually wouldn't chose. That color will be outside my pretty defined palette and as such, provides the contrast necessary to show off all the OTHER colors! I try to remember that rule in a lot of things!- AnonymousAugust 10, 2010 at 10:15 AM
I LOVED the Edward Scissorhands reference! I haven't seen that movie in years.
I don't have a color! I don't even have a group of colors that I wear! I just love color. Though I love neutrals, too. What color I wear on a given day depends mostly on my mood (ok, I'll be honest: it's actually what's clean/back from the dry cleaners).
I think with your coloring, you'd look awesome in saffron. And you could get your red fix via lipstick.
PS - Didn't Diane Kruger wear a similiar Jason Wu dress?! I adored that one, too. I'm also trying to get out of my rut by wearing a bold yellow dress! It's the screaming yellow plaid polyester satin vintage dress I got last year. It's a doozy! I just finished shortening it to a length that is barely in my comfort zone, and I bought some truly ridiculous yellow wedge sandals (Michael Kors "Valley" on super clearance at Marshall's!) to wear with it. The whole outfit is specifically designed to drop kick me out of my frumpy comfort zone. I plan to wear it for a night on the town in Nashville and perhaps drink enough that I won't notice that my feet are killing me.
Pics of the dress before shortening here: http://chronicallyuncool.blogspot.com/2009/12/can-you-hear-me-now.htmlWhen I turned 40 nine years ago I picked up a book at a thrift store, Fit and Fabulous at Fifty (or something line that)-- which explained among many other wonderful concepts that every season can wear coral and teal and periwinkle. This book was a shot in my arm. I purged my closet of the black I had always bought off clearance racks galore and loathed myself in. As a redhead, brown eyed white girl who never tans but "peaches" and who never make-ups, I invested in brown-- my new black. I felt like a soaring eagle. I also added color, color, color to my closet. I feel beautiful in mustard, rust, olive, pumpkin, coral and teal and periwinkle (ahem), chocolate (no dark, thank you). As my hair begins to gray and streak blond (which is what most redheads do at my age), I'm feeling beautiful in the colors of spring-- chartreus (sp?) and lime, yellow straight up, peach and even baby blue. I steer clear of pinks and red, although the latter is my sweet hubby's favorite color. My daughters did suggest, "Mom, you could wear some awesome red shoes with brown!" Ha! I love that idea! Girls, don't wait till you're 40 to wear the colors which make you feel more beautiful than you already are. "No Shortcuts:" Well, it's on sale. Somebody said it's the skinny color. THEY said blah, blah, blah. Wear what feels lovely. You are!
ReplyDeleteI've never had my colors done, and I don't know what season I am, but I wear a lot of blues. And then sometimes greens. And maybe purples. After college, I discovered that pink (though it's not a color I love) is really flattering on me, so there's some of that in my closet now, too.
I would love to wear yellow -- especially a mustardy yellow -- but it makes me look tubercular. ('nora said "jaundiced," and that would fit, too.) I've been trying to bring yellow into my life in smaller ways. Yellow flowers on a blue skirt background, yellow and orange together in a t-shirt, etc. I'm happy to have found some things that work for me.
And I think saffron would be lovely on you! :-)I was tossing out old clothes for Goodwill the other day and I was stunned to see how many types of green shirts I have. So I got rid of a bunch and now I wonder why I did because I need some now! I love green. I'm drawn to turquoise, pale blue, sea green and those types of watery, sea colors. It's so interesting to me to hear what colors people like. I don't like purple much (and I loathe lavender -- LOATHE it!) Deep Chinese Red has always been my favorite, but I find it hard to get seriously RED fabric. It's either too orange or too brown.
ReplyDeleteGo for it, Gertie! As a makeup artist I'll tell you a secret. Knowing "your" colors is a good thing because that is what looks most natural on you by complimenting your skin tone. BUT that doesn't mean you can't wear contrasting colors! It just means they will stand out more on you than on someone who is a summer. Use your hair and makeup to either downplay or emphasize the contrast.
ReplyDeleteDo it!! For years, I kept to a pretty small selection of colors - blues, a few bright pinks, etc - but have over the past year or so, started to branch out. It's so much fun and I've stumbled upon a whole bunch of colors that actually look pretty nice on me. Sure, I still look best in bright blues and saturated pinks, but my closet has greatly benefited from stepping outside of my comfort zone.
I think it's time for you to go on a shopping excursion for some saffron fabric! :)- CelkaleeAugust 10, 2010 at 11:46 AM
Love the mustards and yellow hues for fall. Reminds me of 1966! A common theme at that time was "heathered" shades of a given color. I discovered then that the muting of just about any color allowed me to look just fine, even close to my face. I am a "winter" dark hair, brown eyes, light complexion with freckles....yes, even at 62 I still have my freckles. Father was a redhead! I still have two special outfits from then. One is a coral-ish orange sweater with an openwork neckline and the plaid wool bias cut skirt and a sweet shetland green cabled cardi with the same skirt in the green. Now, they are a size 6 so no longer in wearing rotation, but they are cute!
Anyway, my point is I also look good in red (blue reds, not orange reds....think Revlon's classic "Red" nail polish, test out your non-traditional colors as a scarf, a perky little flower or two on your cardi or a contrast trim on a traditional jacket. I think most people will find, as mentioned before, that a slight change in make-up ... blush or lipstick, can make that alternate color your punctuation mark for the day! I had a CMB book when I was a kid and self diagnosed as a Winter. Mostly so I could wear black, I think.
I've branched out a lot since my goth days, but yellow is never, ever going to suit me. It really does make me look freshly dug up, but I love it on other people. My palette is mostly in the bright jewel tone range, with special mention for scarlet, teal, emerald, violet and hot pink. Yes, sometimes all together!
I have a cousin with such a specific favourite colour that my family can all identify something as being Lucy Blue - a particular shade of royal blue that looks absolutely amazing on her.I stick to the CMB season... and tend to wear way too much turquoise and jade green... (I'm a Spring) but I think you can totally get in a rut, especially with winters. Thoughts:
1) Can you get your colors redone, and make sure "winter" is what you are?
2) There are more than just deep jewel tones for winters! You also have ice pastels and some extreme brights.
3) Your color lady was psycho, winters are the only ones who look good in stark white, washes the rest of us out.
4) If you want yellow, and are a winter, there is indeed a yellow for winters. It's lemon yellow - the one you often see set up with black and white in prints.I am so pumped about this post. I am a woman with a color. My color is the mustard, golden yellow, color you have been dreaming about lately. Funny because I have always wanted to look and feel good in red. I even died my hair blond in hopes of pulling off the red.
My advice about my most favorite color of all time: Try adding accents with a dark chocolate brown. It can bring it into more of a winter feel. I like to use an olive, or dark green for the same effect.
I like to dive into new colors by pairing them with colors I am more comfortable with. Sometimes that means tweeking the hue's you are choosing so that they look nice together. It doesn't always work with every design.
It is funny I am no question a color person. I didn't realize it until today. My aunt gave me my colors when I was very young. That must have made an impression because my closet is filled with the same brown and orange colors she told me were mine long ago.My "color" is white. I love to wear it, I think I look good in it, and despite how many white blouses I already own I'm always ready to sew another.
I'm a rut person I guess - the colors I like best, I think look good on me, so I'm sticking to them. It helps a lot when it comes to sewing separates so I know I'll already have something in my closet to match (white, red, navy).I do think that its fun to play around with the idea that you have a color, though I don't know what mine would be. I love color period. Maybe, rather than going head to toe in the color you're loving, you could try breaking it up with one of your colors. Why not give it some dark currant red accessory to play with? Or what about a brilliant violet? That saffron, mustard color looks just lovely and fun paired with that.
ReplyDelete- AnonymousAugust 10, 2010 at 2:18 PM
The seasons are divided up into types too... for instance, I'm a clear winter, which means I can wear some form of bright yellow (even saffron if not all over.)
for charts
You can also flow towards another season, meaning you can wear some of that season's colors (I think I flow towards spring.) It's all very complicated, right?
And yeah, winters can wear white, so your color lady was crazy. Personally, "my" color is bright cobalt blue. I tend to buy things in that color a lot, and also blue-violet, bright raspberry, emerald green (without too much yellow in it.) As a clear winter, red is a bit much, though I do love it. I think the colors this is great - for me it only confirmed what I had been thinking all along, that I looked best in these colors. I used to feel compelled to "round out" my wardrobe by buying colors that weren't the same as my usual ones, but I find I never wore them, because they didn't make me feel good about myself! - CatherineAugust 10, 2010 at 2:19 PM
I am a "winter" too Gertie, but I've never, ever heard that winter's should wear ivory. I'm pretty sure that's a no no. (I've heard of winter white, but that's definitely not ivory.) It's funny to me but some people end up ditching the CMB ideas are often people who have had really bad advice (that doesn't seem to line up with the books etc?). Anyway, I'm winter too, and I wore the whitest white too for my wedding dress (and looked fab, like you did :D) That was the exact colour you SHOULD have worn!
As for breaking out of the mold and going with other season's colours - it's totally ok! I usually accessorize with those ones if I go through an obsession - recently it was yellow (like Michelle's dress) now it's drab olive. I just know WHAT the colour does to me - and that I think is the best thing! Knowledge is power and all that ;) - my inner magpieAugust 10, 2010 at 2:24 PM
Go for it. You are young and life is short. If you do buy qualty fabric and take the time to pour love into your project I would suggest that you hedge your bets and add some black or similar to that saffron. Think of a black collar, cuffs, and belt, then a yellow for the body.
If you do not want to make that decision then perhaps saffron accessories (belt, handbag, gloves, bead necklace, etc. might allow you to live with the color.
In any case have fun. Ooh yes, how can anyone resist mustard yellow? Everything looks better in yellow, that's my motto!
Re. straying from your colours, I've never really liked to admit which colours suit me as I like to wear every colour under the sun. This is going to change though - just ordered Color Me Beautiful. I know that's not what you wanted to hear... Make a yellow skirt! Like your Emma Pillsbury one but in mustard. Oh yes.Gertie, I came to post what Jan already said....
You actually were going with Winter with your wedding dress, when you thought you were going against it. Bright/stark white is winter, not ivory white. See, you knew what looked best on you and it was winter ;)
I'm a "summer" and though I can try to wear colours that are supposedly in, that aren't summer, like mustard, I always regret it because I look ill and 10 years older in them.I've been following your blog for a few months now, and I love all the tips you have for beginner sewers. I just finished my biggest project since I began sewing last summer. I just posted some photos, and I'd love to have your opinion. :) Thanks, Gertie. (www.blackcurrantthoughts.blogspot.com)
CaitlinI tend to do cycles of color. For a while it was greys and burgandy, then I was into just black and white, then browns and red. I've never liked wearing blues or much green. I just go with whatever is interesting and makes me feel good. For some reason, I'm really interested in orange these days... I just go with it and have fun.
You can wear different shades of a color to go with your sking tone. A little warmer or cooler or paler... holding the fabric up to your face and testing it before you make that committment is a really good idea, no matter what the guys at Mood think! ;)- AnonymousAugust 10, 2010 at 4:31 PM
I have been borderline obsessed with mustard yellow for about a year now. last year I always paired it with shades of grey and this year I seem to be gravitating towards navy as a pairing. :) Love it! It works as such an amazing earthy neutral for being so bright.
ReplyDelete Green seems to be my failsafe colour, I love greens. I've never had my colours done, but I always get complimented on that colour. I think though you are right, it's easy to get stuck in a colour rut, and also to become afraid of other colours... I'm afraid of yellow... it just looks awful on me, which is ashame because I love yellow.
ReplyDeleteI would love to be able to get that color analysis today because I just don't know what my color is. The closest I come to purposely choosing a color that flatters is using the tips I read in an article on "universally flattering" colors like pink, eggplant and Mediterranean Blue; which are all great colors on me.
Otherwise, I don't know if I am a cool, warm, neutral, winter, or summer. I just go with what I like.My father was Greek and my mother is Cherokee and Choctaw; therefore, I have a strange greenish-red undertone. I MUST stick to colors that work with my skin tone, lest I be asked "Are you feeling alright today, Miranda?" "Yes, I am fine, thank you. I am wearing pastels today." To be frank, I look sickly in colors that are not "mine". I don't have a single color that is mine, but I do have a palette that I safely stick to.
It can be charming to have a single color that is "yours". It may read as a signature accessory of sorts-- as long as it has a variety of styles to be displayed in though.
That being said, life is short, live wildly and chase the saffron!Actually, I wear what I want. But here is a useful tip: wear a color that you like (but that may not be YOUR color) away from your face. You might want to try out that saffron as a skirt in case it doesn't respond favorably to your skin tone and hair. You can put a "safer" color closer to your face.
ReplyDeleteI had my colours done and it was a revelation. Being a redhead with an unusual skintone (I have a different freckle structure to other reds) made choosing colours from what was available in stores really tricky. I am a "warm spring" and I love all my colours. I go through phases with them all too so it is never boring!
ReplyDeleteI love Peg! She reminds me of my mom in her Avon/Mary Kay days :) Personally, I seem to gravitate toward jewel tones and black and white combos year round. One way I test drive a color is to purchase that shade in an accessory (scarves, gloves, or shoes) and if I fall in love with the hue I may commit to something larger like a dress, skirt, or coat. Some colors have surprised me such as goldenrod, chartreuse, and persimmon -- they look great with dark brown/auburn hair! Now, I'm no color specialist, but you may enjoy wearing eggplant, wine, navy or even moss green. I think these look great on brunettes with dark features. Eggplant and red are most certainly my go to colors.
ReplyDeleteI always wanted a CMB evaluation in the 80's--thought it would make my life perfect, just like you say.
My color for clothing is a coral or salmon pink. The saffron yellow is gorgeous, but looks really bad on my. I try to use those colors that look bad on my in things like handbags, home decor--places where I will see them, but not have to wear them. After all, I usually don't see what I'm wearing unless I look in the mirror.- AnonymousAugust 10, 2010 at 7:40 PM
Orange. So much so people assume all my clothing is in some shade of it. It's not, but I have orange solids, orange prints, orange dresses, skirts, shirts, pants, shorts...even an orange silk slip.
I can't really wear red, due to having auburnish hair and a reddish complexion, so orange was a good compromise. I also am one of these people whose skin tone works with colors no one else in the world can wear (hello, pastel tealish, greyish green). It works for me. hey! Red's MY colour!! A lovely lady even explained why I should wear more red, apparently it grounds your creativity, whereas blue (which I inexplicably wear all the time) is the colour of daydreaming which is why I never get anything done.
(Read Dusk's comment here, it's fascinating and I was touched that someone I didn't even know took the time to analyse me!! http://stylewilderness.blogspot.com/2010/05/fourth-daughter-retrospective.html#comments )
I think you could wear a very deep saffron as a dress, it would look stunning with the red lipstick. Red lipstick... that's something in red that I haven't tried but really want to, having skin with a yellowish cast though I'm uncertain whether it would suit me. Colour certainly is a fascinating topic!! I try to wear as much of it as I can!We had the CMB boook when I was growing up too, I read it many times and I always remember it saying that the colours and clothes you wear should make people complement you and not your clothing (the idea being that you look so radiant they don't notice your clothes because you are wearing "your colours").
I'm a winter by CMB and the posters are correct that in CMB white is our colour, not ivory, as well as icey pale shade usually carry the adjective "baby" in the name. I also remember reading that reds fell into two spectrums - orange shades and blue shades (like Cherry, my fave red) and as a winter, blue shades will flatter you but orange shades will not.
I've always yearned to wear yellow and I've now got a few bright yellow shades in my wardrobe, just had to find the right shade. I used to go through colour phases, now the majority of my clothes are teal, white, cerise, beige, khakis, (blue) reds, dark purples and my core colours are khaki/olive (which I love), brown, and indigo denim. Because of wearing black in the theatre, I tend to go for bright colours and patterns much of the time out of work or the duller khaki/beige tones on days when I don't feel like sparkling. I've just realised that when I was an office worker, most of my clothes were pink or purple. I wonder why the subconscience chose those?
I have noticed that my 11 month old daughter is a summer colouring, she looks wonderful in the same shades that suit her dad (another summer) but in "my colours" she looks less radiant. I actually dress her in a lot of summer's blues because she looks so pretty in it but I do have to keep correcting people as to her sex!
CMB was a hit of the 80s but it was in no way orginal. My 1953 Simplicity sewing book has a couple of pages advising on "The Best Colors for Your Type" based on hair and high colour (but not complexion, and demonstrated by women with scary, evil eyes!). I wonder, are there professional CBM advisers still active?My colour is peacock blue. My bedroom walls are peacock blue, my bed is bright turqouise, my robe is turqouise and all my pyjamas peacock blue. I didn't do it on purpose, I just suddenly realised one day that everything I own coordinates.
Thenj I died my hair blue and ALL MY CLOTHES matched my hair. I now own many more red tops than before.I have no idea where to "have my colors done". I have looked at many books, and magazine articles but they assume that I know if I am a certain season or if I am fair or medium or look good in jewel tones, whatever. If anyone has a true, basic reference source, I would love to hear it. Or should I pay someone, a stylist, who?
ReplyDeleteI spent my life confusing CMB colorists. One would say I was a summer, then another would say winter, and another spring - and the colors I knew I looked best in were a sprinkling from all the seasons, winter's bright teal, summer's burgundy, fall's plum, etc. Finally a color consultant who wasn't CMB cleared up the confusion - apparently my skin's undertone is exactly neutral, neither warm nor cool, and since CMB's first division is warm/cool, I didn't fit any of their categories.
The upshot was that extremely warm (orange, yellow) and extremely cool (blue) colors look horrible on me. OTOH, any green or purple shade is mine all mine, and I love them all!
In the end though, any color that makes you feel wonderful is "your" color. If it makes you happy, do it!I love mustard! It's the only shade of yellow that I can wear, and looks divine on those of us with auburn hair. I'm still searching for just the right shade to make into a pencil skirt + shift dress. I never heard of this seasonal system, but I guess I am an Autumn - I look best in light shades when they are slightly muted/dusky, but then the system falls apart because jewel toned darker colours suit me as well. The one rule I stick by is that grey, hot pink and lemon yellow make me look like death!
Unfortunately some colours just won't suit our complexions, no matter how much we want to wear them. In circumstances like that, however, there's nothing stopping you from making a skirt, carrying a handbag or wearing shoes in that colour - I just would avoid wearing it next to your face.I can't believe you've written a blog on colours! I have driven myself BONKERS over the years trying to decide whether I'm warm or cool, which colours suit me, which drain me! I go NUTS over it and have to tell myself to STOP!! Oh, no - I'll be colour obsessed tomorrow now that I've read your blog! HELP!! PS I believe that if you want to wear saffron, you should go for it!! I think you could wear it. It can't hurt to give it a go. I'd love to see what you decide to make - so go for it and post your pictures on your blog!
ReplyDelete- AnonymousAugust 11, 2010 at 11:38 AM
Did you see this? http://www.fabricmartfabrics.com/xcart/891403-Dark-Mustard-Silk-From-Nicole-Miller-44-Wide.html
ReplyDelete I had my colors done as a teenager. It was a really great experience. I'm an "autumn" which means that the saffron/mustard color that I, too, am loving at the moment looks really great on me. I think in the end, you can use what you know about colors to choose a shade that looks best on you. For instance, I love purple, but I know that it is not the "best" color for me, so I stay away from lavender and try to pick purples that are more red than blue. Most people can wear some color of yellow, but in this case, the strong orange undertone of Michelle Williams dress is difficult to pull off. Her make-up artist did an incredible job of balancing that color against her skin.
ReplyDelete- elizabetheAugust 12, 2010 at 10:16 PM
Ugh, mustard. Sorry, I was a teen in the eighties and this color will forever remind me of highschool fashion mishaps. That and the episode of the Cosby Show where Theo and Cockroach wanted these fashionable but expensive mustard and black shirts and they paid Denise $20 a piece to make them each one and she totally screwed them up. But they wore them anyway and their dates thought they were really cool and fashion forward.
Honestly, I think in this case, I'd buy the 20 dollar H and M top (or scarf) and wear it every day for a week before I spend a lot of time and effort making something in beautiful fabric only to discover the color just didn't suit me.
I don't want anyone to be tyrannized by color, but in truth, there are colors that each person looks bad or good in. I don't think they necessarily conform to a season, and they do change over time (I used to be a classic autumn, but now I look terrible in those oranges and forest greens). That having been said, every color has a shading such that you could find a mustard/saffron that suits you. Like some aquas look good on me, and some don't.
Slight change of subject, I find that there are entire stores I completely avoid because I simply can't stand their color palette. Part of the reason I'm learning to sew. I find that some stores with colors I like don't have the most flattering clothes for me, and stores with flattering fits for me have icky colors.
Right now I'm on a fairly intense grey/blue kick. I find if I'm not careful, I wind up looking like some kind of garage mechanic with the grey/blue. - AnonymousAugust 13, 2010 at 1:03 AM
I'd say there is no way you would be told to wear ivory if you are a winter - you are best to wear stark white if you are a winter. This is because winter is COOL and Spring is WARM - they are the warm-cool opposites of the bright spectrum. In the same way, Summer is COOL and Autumn is WARM- they are warm-cool opposites of the muted spectrum.
To find your colours, do two things - find out if you are warm or cool by looking at your SKIN tone and holding a white then a cream swatch under your face. White is cool, cream is warm. Then, hold a bright pink then bright orange swatch under your chin. Pink is cool, orange is warm.
When you have found if you are warm or cool, then ask yourself if you are 'muted' or 'bright'. That is, do you like contrast in your clothes, hair, makeup or do you prefer a more even blend. Winters and Springs suit bright contrast, while Summers and Autumns suit more muted or softer palettes.
This is a guide only, but knowing your general season can help a lot. Remember, the colours you love are usually the colors that look best! I have colours i go to. Mostly black and red with no yellow undertones. Lately I bought a lot of blue/navy fabric. There seems to be a change going on... Perhaps because I am forced to wear all black 3 days a week at work. This leaves me longing for colour, bright jewel tones, even patterns.
When buying fabric in any other colour than black I usually try to find a window with natural light and a mirror to see what happens to my face. This gives me an idea if I can pull it off or not. I do the same with wool for knitting, too.Wow - I adore Audrey in My Fair Lady and her costumes, and Color Me Beautiful is a great book which I adore. My closet is completely neutrals and greens and warm tones. But I will say that if you (as a cool person - also a kewl person!!!), want to wear yellow, consider sort of a sorbet version of yellow - with a lot of white, but I'll bet you will look great in an icy version of that yellow. Not too much orange though.
ReplyDeleteMy mother is an "autumn", and my father carries around, even now, a sheaf of color samples in a plastic holder, that perfectly encapsulate all my mother's Autumn favorites. Because we both have greenish eyes, for a long time she asserted that I was also an autumn.
I'm not.
I hate wearing burnt orange and off-white, which make me look pallid, and anything with yellow undertones, because I'm too pale for them.
I think "my" color is purple. Except when it's teal. Or blue. Or red. I like to mix my big bold colors, and I'm warming up to burgundy and navy as well. I think I just like color. :)I feel so left out. Your blog seems to be dominated by Winters! I used to do those consultations back in the 80's. I'm a hard core Spring with a lot of Autumn in my coloring.
Winter's jewel tones make me look like I should be laid out in a box. Summer's pale pastels make me look totally washed out.
If I stick to my colors, I'm usually good to go: crayon colors (think the 8 basic colors in a small Crayola box), or some of the softer earth tones (olives, light brickish reds, ivorys, creams, golds, browns . . . you get the idea).
My kids used to say my wardrobe was 40 shades of pink. I'm trying to branch out.


text:
6202.0 - Labour Force, Australia, Apr 2012 Quality Declaration
ARCHIVED ISSUE Released at 11:30 AM (CANBERRA TIME) 10/05/2012
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Excluded are:
For multiple job holders actual hours worked should equal the hours worked at all jobs. Aggregate monthly hours worked Aggregate monthly hours worked measures the total number of actual hours worked by employed persons in a calendar month. It differs from the actual hours worked estimates (and the usual hours worked estimates) since these refer only to the hours worked in the reference week. The methodology used to produce aggregate monthly hours worked means that these are synthetic estimates. Seasonally adjusted and trend estimates of aggregate monthly hours worked are available for the period July 1978 onwards. Further information on the methodology used to produce the aggregate monthly hours worked estimates is available on the ABS website in Information Paper: Expansion of Hours Worked Estimates from the Labour Force Survey (cat. no. 6290.0.55.001). Actual and usual hours worked cannot be aggregated across time to produce either quarterly or annual estimates as they relate to only a single week in the month. In contrast, aggregate monthly hours worked estimates are a true monthly measure, and may be aggregated across time to produce both quarterly and annual estimates. Attending full time education Persons aged 15-24 years enrolled at secondary or high school or enrolled as a full time student at a Technical and Further Education (TAFE) college, university, or other educational institution in the reference week. Attending school Persons aged 15-19 years enrolled at secondary or high school in the reference week. Attending tertiary educational institution full time Persons aged 15-24 years enrolled full time at a TAFE college, university, or other educational institution in the reference week, except those persons aged 15-19 years who were still attending school. Civilian population aged 15 years and over All usual residents of Australia aged 15 years and over except members of the permanent defence forces, certain diplomatic personnel of overseas governments customarily excluded from census and estimated population counts, overseas residents in Australia, and members of non-Australian defence forces (and their dependants) stationed in Australia. Composite Estimation The estimation methodology used in the Labour Force Survey. Composite Estimation uses sample responses from nearby months as well as from the reference month to derive estimates for the reference month. This approach achieves gains in efficiency by exploiting the high similarity between the responses provided by the same respondent in previous months. For details see Information Paper: Forthcoming Changes to Labour Force Statistics, 2007 (cat. no. 6292.0). Employed All persons aged 15 years and over who, during the reference week:
Employment to population ratio For any group, the number of employed persons expressed as a percentage of the civilian population in the same group. Estimated resident population (ERP) Estimated resident population (ERP), is Australia's official measure of the population of Australia and is based on the concept of usual residence. It refers to all people, regardless of nationality, citizenship or legal status, who usually live in Australia, with the exception of foreign diplomatic personnel and their families. It includes usual residents who are overseas for fewer than 12 months. It excludes overseas visitors who are in Australia for fewer than 12 months. Refer to Australian Demographic Statistics (cat. no. 3101.0). Flow estimates Flow estimates are a measure of activity over a given period. For example, aggregate monthly hours worked is a measure of the total number of hours worked in a calendar month. Full time workers Employed persons who usually worked 35 hours or more a week (in all jobs) and those who, although usually working fewer than 35 hours a week, worked 35 hours or more during the reference week. Gross flows The matching of respondents who report in consecutive months enables analysis of the transition of individuals between the different labour force status classifications, referred to as the matched sample. The transition counts between the different labour force status classifications from one point in time to the next are commonly referred to as gross flows. The figures presented in gross flows are presented in original terms only and do not align with published labour force estimates. The gross flows figures are derived from the matched sample between consecutive months, which after taking account of the sample rotation and varying non-response in each month is approximately 80 percent of the sample. Caution should be exercised when analysing these gross flows data due to:
Labour force For any group, persons who were employed or unemployed, as defined. Labour force status A classification of the civilian population aged 15 years and over into employed, unemployed or not in the labour force, as defined. The definitions conform closely to the international standard definitions adopted by the International Conferences of Labour Statisticians. Labour force underutilisation rate The sum of the number of persons unemployed and the number of persons in underemployment, expressed as a proportion of the labour force. Long-term unemployed The number of persons unemployed for 52 weeks or over. Long-term unemployment ratio The number of long-term unemployed persons, expressed as a percentage of the total unemployed population. Market sector The market sector is an industry grouping comprising the following industries: Agriculture, forestry and fishing; Mining; Manufacturing; Electricity, gas, water and waste services; Construction; Wholesale trade; Retail trade; Accommodation and food services; Transport, postal and warehousing; Information media and telecommunications; Finance and insurance services; Rental, hiring and real estate services; Professional, scientific and technical services; Administrative and support services; Arts and recreation services; and Other services. Refer to Australian National Accounts: Concepts, Sources and Methods (cat. no. 5216.0). Non-market Sector The non-market sector is an industry grouping comprising the following industries: Education and training; Public administration & safety; and Health care and social assistance. Refer to Australian National Accounts: Concepts, Sources and Methods (cat. no. 5216.0). Not in labour force Persons who were not in the categories employed or unemployed, as defined. Participation rate For any group, the labour force expressed as a percentage of the civilian population aged 15 years and over in the same group. Part time workers Employed persons who usually worked fewer than 35 hours a week (in all jobs) and either did so during the reference week or were not at work during the reference week. Response rate The number of fully responding dwellings expressed as a percentage of the total number of dwellings excluding sample loss. Examples of sample loss include: dwellings where all persons are out of scope and/or coverage; vacant dwellings; dwellings under construction; dwellings converted to non-dwellings; derelict dwellings; and demolished dwellings. Seasonally adjusted series A time series of estimates with the estimated effects of normal seasonal variation removed. See Explanatory Notes 29 to 33 for more detail. Stock estimates Stock estimates are a measure of certain attributes at a point in time and can be thought of as stocktakes. For example, the total number of employed persons is an account of the number of people who were considered employed in the Labour Force Survey reference week. Trend series A smoothed seasonally adjusted series of estimates. See Explanatory Notes 34 to 37 for more detail. Underemployment rate The number of underemployed workers expressed as a percentage of the labour force. Underemployed workers Employed persons aged 15 years and over who want, and are available for, more hours of work than they currently have. They comprise:
Unemployed Persons aged 15 years and over who were not employed during the reference week, and:
Unemployed looking for full time work Unemployed persons who:
Unemployed looking for part time work Unemployed persons who:
Unemployment rate For any group, the number of unemployed persons expressed as a percentage of the labour force in the same group. Unemployment to population ratio For any group, the number of unemployed persons expressed as a percentage of the civilian population in the same group. Usual hours of work Usual hours of work refers to a typical period rather than to a specified reference period. The concept of usual hours applies both to persons at work and to persons temporarily absent from work, and is defined as the hours worked during a typical week or day. Actual hours worked (for a specific reference period) may differ from usual hours worked due to illness, vacation, strike, overtime work, a change of job, or similar reasons. Document Selection These documents will be presented in a new window. |

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This is TALK OF THE NATION. I'm Neal Conan.
And now the Opinion Page. The release of millions of academic papers by Internet activist Aaron Swartz raised many questions about how much access the public should have to scholarship, questions that took on new dimensions after his suicide. At the time of his death, Swartz faced federal charges of wire fraud and violations of the Computer Fraud and Abuse Act.
In The Chronicle of Higher Education, Peter Ludlow argues Aaron Swartz was right, not only justified in his act of civil disobedience, but morally impelled to act. We want to hear from those of you in academic publishing, what's the legacy of Aaron Swartz? 800-989-8255. Email: firstname.lastname@example.com. You can also join the conversation on our website. That's at npr.org, click on TALK OF THE NATION.
Peter Ludlow is a professor of philosophy in Northwestern University. His commentary "Aaron Swartz Was Right" ran in The Chronicle of Higher Ed on February 25. He joins us now from member station WBEZ in Chicago. Good to have you with us today.
PETER LUDLOW: Hi. Good afternoon.
CONAN: And you write that the consensus, so far, is that Swartz did something wrong. And, well, he himself called it an act of civil disobedience. Don't people who commit act of civil disobedience expect some - well, there are some risks associated with that.
LUDLOW: There certainly are. When you commit an act of civil disobedience, you're doing something that is technically against the law, but you believe it's the right thing to do. For example, Rosa Parks knew that it was against the law to sit in the front of the bus, but she did so anyway. And that's basically the structure of acts of civil disobedience.
CONAN: Yet, you accept that there's a possibility you could end up facing charges for this.
LUDLOW: You certainly do.
CONAN: And the civil act that he committed, you say, was justified by the, well, peculiar structure of academic publishing.
LUDLOW: Yeah. There are actually two things going on here. One is the issue of academic publishing, the structure of it and how knowledge is locked up by academic publishers. And then there's another thing which you're somewhat alluding to earlier when you talk about, you know, he should have expected some sort of punishment for what he did. And that other thing goes to the Computer Fraud and Abuse Act, which lays out these draconian penalties for unauthorized access of a computer system. And so there are really two things going on in all of this. One has to do with the story about academic publishing, and the other thing has to do with this Computer Fraud and Abuse Act, and both are incredibly serious issues.
CONAN: Well, let us start with the academic publishing issue then, first. And...
LUDLOW: Sounds fair.
CONAN: All right. And your argument, essentially, that this has been stood on its head, a system that was designed to disseminate information instead bottles it up.
LUDLOW: That's exactly right. If you think about what academic publishers used to do is that they could provide a service that nobody else could provide. That is, they could produce information. They could typeset papers, scientific papers, mathematical papers, and so forth, in a way that nobody else really could do because, you know, a century ago, we're writing these things, you know, with pencil or pen. And they could not only typeset them, but they could publish the - and they could distribute them. And so it played this really invaluable service of taking information that otherwise might just be circulated among a very small group, and distribute it worldwide.
But now, it's performing exactly the opposite function. Instead of helping us to distribute information, it's using a certain kind of rights that it's acquired. And it's using that to bottle up information and demand for fees for that information when there are much more efficient ways to distribute information and academic publishing - academic ideas these days.
CONAN: Well, one of the problems you cite is that very few papers actually do get published, five percent you estimate.
LUDLOW: Well, that's - if you would take a particular top-level philosophy journal, their acceptance rate is around five percent. So presumably, those papers get published elsewhere, but perhaps not a journal that's as prestigious.
And the problem is that if you're a junior professor somewhere, let's say you're a junior professor in philosophy, you need to publish or perish. That means you don't have tenure yet. You're going to need to show up with, you know, six, seven, eight, maybe 10 solid publications in order to get tenure, or you're out the door. And you submit your papers to these journals.
They have a 5 percent acceptance rate and they are not - they are going to, basically, have you sign over the right to that publication. That is, a junior professor is going to be at a very unfair bargaining position, where they're going to give up the rights to their own intellectual product to this publishing company simply because, you know, they're in an impossible situation. They have to publish. They don't have many opportunities, and the publishing company holds all the power.
CONAN: So they've got 'em over a barrel and, of course, they're going to, given those stakes, sign away their right.
LUDLOW: Sure. I mean, I did it when I was young.
LUDLOW: I needed, I needed tenure. I signed away my rights. And I think for most publications and most fields in academia, the scholars do end up signing away their rights.
CONAN: And then you have the situation then to get access to those papers, subsequently, those publishers demand fees, and this is often for research that's been funded by, well, federal money.
LUDLOW: It could be funded by the NEH or the NSF. It might be funded by your tuition dollars or by state - money that a state contributes to the state university. And often, the research is the product of public funding. But the public doesn't have access to that information unless it finds some route to it by being a student in a university or professor in the university or via some other, not necessarily so obvious, route of access to the information.
CONAN: Now, there are various regulations, laws, written to protect, effectively, monopoly of these publishers.
LUDLOW: Well, there have been attempts. There was a law that was written a couple of years ago that was sponsored by Elsevier Publishing. And they made contributions to several members of Congress and they finally got someone in Congress to write a law that would basically prohibit the free distribution of research that had been done by federal funds if it was held at a copyright with one of these publishing houses. So, it was basically, they are looking for legal ways to bolster their position. But they don't necessarily need new laws to do it. I mean, they can just fall back on basic copyright law, and they can, you know, they do hold a copyright, and they will be litigious about it if they need to be.
CONAN: You wrote in your paper, in the Chronicle of Higher Education, that an outcry effectively killed that proposed law. So apparently, protest is successful, at least in some cases.
LUDLOW: Oh, it can be successful, yes. We hope.
CONAN: And that brings us to the other aspect of this, the severity of the charges that were brought against Aaron Swartz.
LUDLOW: Right. I think it would have been reasonable for him to expect something. There was - technically, he did trespass at MIT. He did download these files. But in the introduction, I think you said that he distributed these academic papers. But to the best of my knowledge, he never did that. He just downloaded them and then returned them in effect to JSTOR.
The severity of the charge, though, stems from this Computer Fraud and Abuse Act which several prosecutors, and in particular, Eric Holder has been behind this, as far as I can tell.
CONAN: The attorney general.
LUDLOW: The idea has been that you can think of a violation of a terms of service with a computer company as being a misuse of a computer, or using computer services for purposes for which they're not intended.
So we have this very, very old law that says if you do something that is sort of against the original intent of the computer system, then you are committing a felony. And what that means, in this case - if you take this seriously, if you consider the Justice Department's position and take it seriously - is that if you go on an online dating site and you lie about something, you are committing a felony because you have violated the terms of service of that dating site.
And if you - in a certain sense, if you think about all the little times you've sort of clicked I agree to the terms of service for a computer service that you used or some sort of website that you accessed, I would say there's a very good chance that everybody listening to this program right now has violated the terms of service of an agreement somewhere, which means that if you believe the Justice Department narrative on this, everyone listening to this program is technically a felon.
CONAN: Yes. But this is different from a deliberate act of civil disobedience.
LUDLOW: It's the same prosecutorial issue, though, that basically...
CONAN: I hear the logic there. But it's not - the act is not quite the same. The intent was not the same.
LUDLOW: Well, let's see. I agree with you the - in the following, that he did intentionally violate the terms of service in this particular case and he did intentionally trespass because it was intended as an act of civil disobedience, which as opposed to something that's trying to do on the sly or whatever. It was - there was a - I guess, you could say there's an element of theater to an act of civil disobedience, in which you make it very explicit that you are intentionally violating the law, or the rule in this case.
CONAN: Sticking your finger in their eye.
LUDLOW: A little. Yeah, that's a good way to think about it. Yes.
CONAN: Our guest is Peter Ludlow, professor of philosophy at Northwestern University. His piece "Aaron Swartz Was Right" ran in the journal - Chronicle of Higher Education on February 25th. You're listening to TALK OF THE NATION from NPR News.
Suzie's on the line calling us from Columbus in Ohio.
SUZIE: Hi. Thanks very much, Neal. And I totally agree with Professor Ludlow and want to say thank you. I think what was done to Aaron Swartz is a terrible injustice. I wrote many things that were published for free and I think it's awful that these companies, merely by putting them on the Web, think that they now own the rights. And I think that Aaron Swartz's legacy is to stand up for free access to information that should be free and that was publicly subsidized as well as being donated labor for all of us professors.
And I am so disillusioned that the Obama Justice Department would have brought charges that made him face 35 to 50 years in prison for doing simply what is right. And, you know, Neal, I'm even disappointed because I think that your devil's advocate questions are keeping us from exploring the true injustice that was done here. And so I do want to say thank you for having this topic. But, you know, that we really need to focus on the fact that we have lost a brilliant mind because of a terrible injustice. So thanks, Professor Ludlow.
CONAN: Suzie, thanks very much for the call.
SUZIE: Thank you, Neal. Bye-bye.
CONAN: I did want to ask, Peter Ludlow, one aspect of this. If - as you say, there's no - you can't go to another version of the theory of relativity. You need to go to Mr. Einstein. So would he get royalties if those papers are downloaded? Would authors like Suzie get money from - flowing from their downloads?
LUDLOW: For the most part, academic papers, there are no royalties for those. I've never received a royalty check for any of my papers. And, in fact, in cases where I wanted to reprint one of my papers, I've actually had to pay a publisher for the right to reprint some of my work in a collected volume, for example. So the stranglehold happens in many cases. In several instances I've had to put together volumes - readers for courses, for example. And in those cases, I typically have to pay around $10,000 to the publishers for rights to include material. And for the most part, as far as I know, none of that money flows through to the original authors, and it certainly doesn't flow through to me.
CONAN: Let's go next to Phil, and Phil's on the line with us from Cincinnati.
PHIL: Thank you, Neal. Yeah, I'm currently getting my master's in environmental history. And I think there's two important takeaways from this conversation about Aaron Swartz's legacy. In the first one, Dr. Ludlow and your last caller, Suzie, hinted at, which is that, you know, this is publicly financed information that we as the public are putting forward. And so, you know, we as the public have a right to that information.
And I think this is specifically relevant with the issue of climate change because there's so much information floating out there on this that the public has financed this to a great degree. And the public has a right to know that information because it affects us so severely. So the big takeaway that I think Aaron Swartz understood is that, you know, the academic's duty is to society. And so, you know, that should be reflected in these copyright laws and the policies of these journals.
CONAN: The academic's duty is to society. Peter Ludlow, does that suggest that if there was a moral impulse for Aaron Swartz to act, there is a moral impulse for others to act?
LUDLOW: You bet there is. And in particular for academics, and I think we as academics need to seriously sit down and think about our current policy of demanding students publish in these journals that are often published by for-profit companies, journals that don't give the rights for - don't give the copyrights to the original authors. I think we need to explore alternatives in the form of open access journals that would be available free to anybody on the Web. And I think this is doable. There are workable ways to accomplish this.
The problem is that there's a lot of inertia in academia and academics, as a rule, don't like change as much as they're often thought to. And it requires some change in habits, you know, when you start thinking, well, the top five journals in my area, maybe I shouldn't expect, you know, maybe I shouldn't demand that people publish in these top five journals in order to get tenure. Maybe I should start developing alternative open access journals and maybe I should show some more respect for open access journals when junior people do publish in those kinds of journals.
CONAN: Phil, thanks very much for the call.
PHIL: Thank you, Neal.
CONAN: And our thanks to Peter Ludlow, professor of philosophy at Northwestern University. Thanks very much for your time, today.
LUDLOW: Oh, thank you.
CONAN: And Peter Ludlow joined us from WBEZ in Chicago. Tomorrow, what's going on in coal country as regulations restrict the domestic market, but sales do pretty well overseas. It's the TALK OF THE NATION from NPR News. Transcript provided by NPR, Copyright NPR.


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We've rounded up the best railway and transport attractions in Bury End in our quest to discover brilliant family attractions and places to visit near you. There are 46 Bury End railway and transport attractions to pick from. Find the perfect places to go with your kids and get out on your next adventure!
All the railway and transport attractions we list are rated according to the ages they are suitable for, facilities and whether they are suitable for rainy days or best when the sun is shining.
Many of the places we list are historic or educational in nature and would be suitable for class trips or as ways to keep the learning up whilst having fun over the school holidays.
If you're looking for fun things to do and family days out in Bury End - browse and book your attraction tickets here.
Gavin and Stacey, the beloved British sitcom that captured the hearts of viewers with its endearing characters and hilarious storylines, was filmed in a variety of locations across Wales. From the picturesque seaside town of Barry Island to the suburbs in Dinas Powys, fans of the show can now visit iconic filming locations from…
Here's the best things to do in Bristol that your whole family will enjoy! From caves and animal experiences to immersive exhibits!
Grab your plates and head to one of these fantastic food festivals this summer! The sun's shining, the BBQ is on and your stomach is HUNGRY!
Looking for THE dinosaur event of the summer? Check out 40 life-sized animatronic dinosaurs and a whole host of interactive games at Dinosaurs in the Park!
Read all about Rose and her family's day out to Little Town Adventures! Including top tips, travel, food reviews and the best parts!
Anya Hindmarch's Ice Cream Project in London has returned! Pick from 12 experimental ice creams & sorbets this Summer.
In celebration of Father's Day 2024, dads across the UK are being given the opportunity to go free! With a variety of attractions taking part including theme parks and zoos, dads can save money while enjoying the special day with their family… We want to wish all the dads a big Happy Father's Day…
If you love water and are eager to get out and about, explore new environments and discover whether the UK has any waterfalls, then this is the blog for you!


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IRWINDALE, Calif. (AP) -- A Southern California city has declared the factory that produces the popular Sriracha hot sauce a public nuisance.
The Irwindale City Council's action Wednesday night gives the factory 90 days to make changes to stop the spicy odors that prompted complaints from some residents last fall. Declaring a public nuisance will allow city officials to enter the factory and make changes if the odors persist after the deadline.
The decision came despite testimony by air-quality experts that progress was being made toward a resolution. The South Coast Air Quality Management District said its inspectors have taken air samples inside the plant, and believed the information gathered should allow the factory and the city to resolve their differences.
Attorney John Tate, who represents Sriracha maker Huy Fong Foods, Inc., said the company had been working with the AQMD on its filtration system since the complaints first arose and was committed to finding long-term solutions by June 1.
He called the public nuisance declaration a demonstration of "the city flexing its muscle and thumbing Huy Fong in the eye."
A call to Irwindale City Attorney Fred Galante was not immediately returned.
Irwindale sued Huy Fong Foods last October, asking a judge to halt production at the company's factory, saying residents downwind complained that fumes from the grinding of red hot chili peppers was stinging their eyes and giving them headaches and coughing fits.
In November a judge ordered the company to stop producing the annoying odors, but by then the annual pepper-grinding season, which runs from August through October, had ended.
In the meantime, several residents complained that the smell was persisting as Huy Fong Foods workers continued to bottle the popular hot sauce that is a staple in Asian restaurants and homes. Data provided by the AQMD showed the majority of complaints came from four households.
Huy Fong Foods moved to Irwindale two years ago, opening a new $40 million plant in the largely industrial city of 1,400 residents.
The company was founded by Vietnamese immigrant David Tran, who began mixing up his distinctive sauce in a bucket at his home in 1980. As business boomed, he opened a plant in Rosemead, moving to Irwindale when his company outgrew that facility.
He said the privately held company took in about $85 million last year, adding it employs about 200 workers during the pepper-grinding season and 60 year-round.
The flaming hot sauce is contained in distinctive green-tipped bottles, each with a drawing of a rooster on the side.
More from MBTMag.com
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Forever Young
I've lost count of how many times in the last two and three-quarter years I've heard these words: they grow up so fast. I've heard it a lot. As of today, I've heard it a lot plus one. Today, I heard it again. A neighbor leaned over Jasper as I pushed him along in his stroller and uttered the familiar refrain. My, they grow up so fast.
Jasper is not quite four months old. There are foodstuffs forgotten at the back of our freezer that are older than he is. To look at him and think, my, how fast they grow! is extraordinary. But it's true. He's almost doubled in size since he was born. He bears no more resemblance to the squawling newborn that he was four months ago than he does to his any of his sister's toy dolls. He's a completely different child. That thrills and terrifies me.
It thrills me, obviously, because it's exciting to watch them grow, to see them unfurl from their fetal huddle and open, like fat little flowers unfolding toward the sun. It's thrilling to watch as their fingers begin to grab and clutch, to listen as their gurgles turn into giggles and coos. It's amazing to watch them turn into little people. But it's terrifying, too. It's terrifying because with every passing moment of growth and transformation, with every step taken toward the person who will be, I lose the baby that was.
I look at baby Jasper and thrill at his adorable baby-ness; the curve of his cheek, the soft pout of his smile, the way that his eyes crinkle when he's snuggled in at the breast and tries to grin with a mouthful of boob. I look at baby Jasper and I wonder, what ever became of that other baby, that first baby, the baby that I snuggled and rocked and nursed two years ago? Whatever became of the baby Emilia, my Wonderbaby? Why can I not remember her perfectly, when I tried so hard to commit every curve and roll and fold of her baby self to memory, so that I wouldn't forget? Why is the memory of that baby so utterly obliterated by the force of her two-and-three-quarter year old self?
I look at Jasper and I miss Emilia. I look at him and miss her, even though she sits not two feet away from me, nursing her own baby, telling her own stories. I look at him and even though I can see something of her there, even though I can remember something of what it felt like to hold her just this way, to stroke her cheek just like that, those memories remain just out of reach and that child, the baby-child that she once was, remains lost.
The force of that loss feels all the stronger, having recently visited my sixteen-year-old nephew on his sickbed and been confronted by both the fact of his undeniable teenageness and the fact of the diminishment of that teenageness through illness: there he was, all six-feet-something of him swaddled in hospital blankets like a baby and all I could think was, where has he gone? The teenager replaced the baby boy in him and the sick child replaced the teenage boy and I was left there, just holding his hand, missing him, willing him to open his big green eyes so that I could see his heart, the thing that is constant in him, the thing that is constant in all these children that we love, these beings who will grow and change and leave their littler selves behind. The heart, after all, remains the same, even as they grow and change or - gods forbid - become ill and diminished in illness. And so we mouth platitudes about clinging to their hearts.
It is their hearts - Emilia's heart, Jasper's heart - that hold me, that bind me to them, that keep me rooted to their sides, loving them and watching them grow. But the little bodies that contain those hearts... aaaah, those I love, and have loved, too. And I miss them as they pass into memory. Their tiny hands, their tiny feet, their wee proud bellies cresting above bloated diapers as they lay giggling on the floor, squirming away from me as I blow wet raspberry kisses and make silly faces and clutch at their fat, ticklish legs. That was Emilia then, that is Jasper now, that will all soon be memory, fragile memory, the kind that lingers just out of reach, like smoke or mist, dissipating in the very moment that you reach out to touch it. Dissipating, disappearing.
I look at him and I miss her; I look at him and I miss him, because I know that he'll be gone soon, the little him who I clutch in my arms, nuzzle and nurse, to be replaced by a bigger, faster, sturdier him who will race away from me, faster, further. Just like her.
I miss them, my children. I miss them even though I hold them close.
Is this why a parent's love always dances on the razor's edge of heartbreak?
The CBC video of my interview is now online and posted over at BlogHers Act Canada. Also check out Defining Someday's Breastfeeding Without Blankets Blog Carnival - she's rounded up a bunch of posts on this topic (let her know if you have one to add). And if you have a look at the trackbacks on both of my breastfeeding posts, you'll see links to more really awesome posts on the subject. Do check them out - and let me know if you write your own.


text: Good morning. I'm Renee Montagne. As the story goes, pardoning a turkey dates back to Lincoln, when his young son Tad begged his father to let the White House Thanksgiving meal live. Today, President Obama pardons two turkeys - Cobbler and Gobbler. Ahead of their big moment, the birds have been staying at the swanky W hotel, nibbling on organic meals prepared by the hotel's chef. And once pardoned, the turkeys will retire to Mount Vernon. It's MORNING EDITION. Transcript provided by NPR, Copyright NPR.


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It's incredible enough that Texas Rangers outfielder Josh Hamilton hit four home runs in one game Tuesday night — something that's only been done by 15 other major league players.
But he came pretty close to hitting five, which no player has ever done in a single game, according to the Baseball Almanac. In the fifth inning, Hamilton's long line drive to center field "one-hopped the wall for a [ground rule] double," as the Fort Worth Star-Telegram's Foul Territory blog says.
And on top of all that, there's the compelling story of Hamilton's struggle with addictions. As ESPN.com writes:
"He went from first round draft pick in 1999 by Tampa Bay to out of baseball all together because of drug and alcohol addiction."He recovered and returned to the majors in 2007 with Cincinnati, and was traded to the Texas, where he has become a star — the AL MVP in 2010 — while still battling his addiction. He had a relapse before this season, but is off to a torrid start."
We noted Hamilton's pre-season relapse back in February.
After Tuesday's game, he had this to say:
"Understanding that what I'm doing and what God's allowed me to do coming back from everything I went through and allowing me to play the game at the level I play it, it's pretty amazing to think about."
And who has hit four homes in one game? Here's the list, via the Baseball Almanac:
-- Bobby Lowe; Boston Beaneaters; May 30, 1894.-- Ed Delahanty; Philadelphia Phillies; July 13, 1896.-- Lou Gehrig, New York Yankees; June 3, 1932.-- Chuck Klein; Philadelphia Phillies; July 10, 1936 (10-inning game).-- Patt Seerey; Chicago White Sox; July 18, 1948 (11 innings).-- Gil Hodges; Brooklyn Dodgers; Aug. 31, 1950.-- Joe Adcock; Milwaukee Braves; July 31, 1954.-- Rocky Colavito; Cleveland Indians; June 10, 1959.-- Willie Mays; San Francisco Giants; April 30, 1961.-- Mike Schmidt; Philadelphia Phillies; Aug. 17, 1976 (10 innings).-- Bob Horner; Atlanta Braves; July 6, 1986.-- Mark Whiten; St. Louis Cardinals; Sept. 7, 1993.-- Mike Cameron; Seattle Mariners; May 2, 2002.-- Shawn Green; Los Angeles Dodgers; May 23, 2002.-- Carlos Delgado; Toronto Blue Jays; Sept. 25, 2003.-- Josh Hamilton; Texas Rangers; May 8, 2012.
Copyright 2016 NPR. To see more, visit http://www.npr.org/.


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I get a kick out of telling people that Chicky plays soccer. Soccer? For three year olds? Surely we must be those parents who are pushing their babies into activities well before they should. We're probably stunting her growth but how else will she be ready for the 2024 summer Olympic women's soccer team?
Well it's not so much playing soccer as it is spinning in circles in the sunshine and picking grass. Also, kicking playground balls into the woods. It's a good time. I leave every "game" in tears. Happy, joyful, laughing-my-ass-off kinds of tears.
Most of the other kids in this "league" (Don't you love the "finger quotes"? Aren't they "awesome"?) are four and five years old so being one of the youngest she gets cut a lot of slack. When the others are trying to follow the coach's instructions she's kicking a ball from one end of the grassy area to the other. I've never enjoyed watching my kid blatantly ignoring authority more.
It can also be used as a mask to hide from the paparazzi. Mary Kate already order five of these.
That's my girl, staying close to the coach. I sincerely hope she was just trying to get the hair out of her face and wasn't practicing using her femine wiles.
That's it, Chicky. Don't rely on pretty, impress him with your mad goalie skills instead. Look at that form! I dare some kid to try to get something by her.
Some might look at this picture and see a girl learning how to trap a ball. I see the "Crane Pose".
We'll wait until Chicky-san's in the third grade before we teach her to sweep the leg. At least. When it comes to sport we're ruthless in this family. Strike first, strike hard, no mercy.
(Okay, not really. We're total pacifists. Or is it pansies? I forget.)


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For information on how you can create a unique traditional burial service for your loved one, contact us today at (803) 490-7137.
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Rooms by the Sea
Artist: Edward Hopper
Type: Fine-Art Print
Paper Size: 34" x 26"
You are viewing a museum quality fine-art print.Beautiful custom framed with custom mat and with Plexiglass.Each frame is individually made by our professional expert framers right here in the United States. Our workmanship is of the highest quality. The prints we carry are produced using either the lithographic or serigraphic printing process and are printed on high quality archival acid free paper. Each print is of the highest museum art print reproduction quality and are supplied by the world's leading art publishers and artists. These prints rival any detailed reproduction from their originals and are geared towards the discerning eye of the particular art collector. This print is perfect for any elegant home, office, restaurant or place of business.
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Cade Cunningham Detroit Pistons Jordans Brand Unisex Swingman Jersey - Statement Edition - Black
Cade Cunningham Detroit Pistons Jordans Brand Unisex Swingman Jersey - Statement Edition - Black
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Capture your team's distinct identity in an innovative design with this Cade Cunningham Detroit Pistons Swingman Statement Edition Jersey. It features classic trims and integrated Dri-FIT technology for added appeal and breathability. Plus bold Cade Cunningham graphics complete this striking jersey for a piece of gear that shows your fandom is on the cutting edge.
- Product ID: 4759168
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Welcome to Dragon Cave! Dragon Cave is an online adoptables game. Collect eggs, raise them to adulthood, and then breed them to create interesting lineages. New dragons are added regularly!
Spotted Greenwings are relatively small nocturnal dragons. Easily recognizable by the fleshy appendages growing off of their head and rump, they are most commonly seen in forests at night, leaping and soaring from tree to tree. While generally social, spotted greenwings are very quiet and rarely make any sort of vocalization. Their bodies are unusually warm to the touch, though they are unable to breathe fire. Greenwings are voracious feeders and will consume nearly any living thing that they can fit in their mouths.
Dragons are highly-intelligent reptilian creatures that—from a human perspective, at least—appear to live forever. Many different varieties of dragon exist, each with their own unique qualities, habitats, and behavior. Adolescence in dragons is usually marked by the growth of a hatchling's wings, although not all breeds of dragons grow wings and some breeds have other traits that indicate the beginning of maturation. In Galsreim, dragons and humans coexist peacefully.