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Tuesday, December 22, 2009
Retro Foundation Garments: Yea or Nay?
People who write about wearing vintage fashion today often insist that adopting these foundations garments is absolutely essential to achieving a proper retro silhouette. My question for you is: do you agree?
In my point of view, this is a strictly personal preference and it doesn't mean that you're doing vintage wrong if you decide to forgo these undergarments. I went through a phase where I was curious about trying retro foundation garments, so I bought a Rago girdle and a longline bra. My personal opinion on the girdle was a big thumbs-down. Aside from being intensely uncomfortable, I found it to actually create more lumps and bumps with all the hook-and-eye plus zipper action. The longline bra is definitely something I can get behind, though. For special occasions. With my satin sheath dress, it definitely smoothed out my torso and eliminated any bra bulges. But believe me, it's definitely not something I would choose to wear on a daily basis.
Personally, adopting retro foundation garments also becomes a bit problematic body image-wise. I've definitely fallen prey to the belief that if I just find the right girdle or waist cincher, I'll look just like an illustration on a 50s pattern envelope. I find it better to just focus on finding clothes that are flattering to my body type rather than trying to squeeze myself into a fictional ideal. Anyway, the great thing about sewing vintage is being able to adapt retro designs to a modern silhouette. And this means no girdles for me - hurrah! (I am, however, a big fan of high-waisted Spanx (especially the tights), and I wear them with my pencil skirts for a smoothing effect.)
For a differing perspective from mine, check out Couture Allure's posts on foundation garments and how to shop for them. She's a bit of a purist when it comes to these matters . . .but then, she's also writing about fitting purchased vintage garments, not garments sewn from vintage patterns.
What do you all think? Retro foundation garments: are they a yea or a nay for you?
46 comments:
when i got married last year, i wore a 1940's style reproduction dress. nothing fancy, just a little black dress. i also bought some repro. lingerie to go with it, a pointy bra/garter set, and a girdle from la magia.
i was planning on wearing one of these items under the dress. i found out after i got the dress in the mail, that it was meant to fit over modern lingere, not the more modest designs of the past. i had to wear my regular stuff under it. boring!
the dress was made of a more stretchy material, causing lumps, and bumps to show when wearing the girdle, and the pointy bra just peeked out the top.
i really wanted to go for the whole 1940's thing. silhouette and all.
too bad too, cause i found that bra to be one of the most comfortable that i had ever bought. :)
for me retro lingerie in only a yea if the garment is custom made to fit over the proper lingerie, or if the garment is truly vintage.
sorry so long...As someone who isn't a purist when it comes to vintage, I'm on the fence when it comes to vintage/vintage style foundations. I've been curious about wearing some on a regular basis (a What Katie Did bullet bra is on my wishlist, as is a garter belt since I have several pairs of vintage stockings). But I can't see myself wearing a girdle or longline in day-to-day life (although I fully intend to buy and test wearing a girdle at some point). The closest thing I've worn to that is a full-body smoother and corsets from various eras. I always end up feeling either delightfully supported (corsets), or like a stuffed sausage (full-body smoother).
But this is one of the top reasons I sew from vintage patterns: to fit to my (ungirdled) body! Trying to find actual garments that fit properly without the foundations can sometimes be a hassle. Customizing (for me at least ;), isn't.
♥ Casey
blog | elegantmusings.comI am definitely not a purist. I love the clothes of the past, and I love the lines they created, but I am not willing to suffer for my art. (Well, not *this* art, anyway! Ask me about my sewing-related injuries!)
I was just looking at the 1934 Sears catalog images on lileks.com, and I couldn't get over the layers and layers involved in a girdle. The female form is much too beautiful on its own to smother in all that elastic.
I think it's possible to pay homage to the styles of the past without having to cut yourself in half with a restrictive undergarment. I am a "comfort first" kinda girl, and I'm not into bondage, so girdles are not for me.- AnonymousDecember 22, 2009 at 9:34 AM
Hey - some of the best designers/couturiers of the past were in vehement opposition to girdles and shapers. Rather they insisted on the free female form being the ideal of elegance. Vionet and Chanel comes most forcefully to mind. Their work was extremely elegant as well as freeing. One could almost say they had a feminist agenda.
IMO noone looks truly beautiful in binding and uncomfortable clothes or shoes. Yes, I know it has it slightly kinky appeal,(and I could consider donning those things just to have them removed again in a fairly short time), but walking a whole day in high heels, hose and girdles is not my idea of fun. Chinese footbinding comes to mind.
Keep up your fun blog!
Vibeke in Oslo This is an interesting topic, Gertie. I vote yea - with qualifications. I think it is totally about what you feel comfortable with - and you don't need foundation garments to do vintage 'properly'.
Having said that, I own a couple of the Rago cinchers and find that I wear them during the day to work, etc more and more. I guess it depends what you're used to. For me, this garment cinches the waist a little but is comfortable and when worn with the right bra, leaves me with a completely smooth line. When I bought my first one, I remember thinking that the silhouette it created was quite dramatic, but now I feel comfortable with it most days. I've also always worn stockings (or stay ups) instead of tights (which I hate) so the garters on the cincher are a real plus. I also have a couple of vintage girdles and a rago corselette which is great in winter. Interestingly, I haven't become addicted to or reliant on what foundation garments do and I still love days in jeans.
For me the issue is less one of purity and is more about whatever makes you feel good. Despite having the rather unfortunate and functional title 'foundation garments', wearing 40s and 50s lingerie actually makes me feel confident, empowered and really really good. That silhouette is no longer a prescribed norm - it is entirely my choice, so for me it is never about conformity, or just 'hiding bumps'. It is about my freedom to appropriate whatever pleases me aesthetically and to be able to live that whenever I like.- AnonymousDecember 22, 2009 at 9:43 AM
I've talked about this a bit on my blog in the past. I choose no girdle (but yes! to Spanx) for daily wear but will wear one for special occasions. I'm a firm believer in finding styles that suit the body instead. I can wear 50s dresses without full bust adjustments and taking in the waists because 50's patterns were drafted for my figure-type. When I venture into 40s or 30s fashions, I need a girdle AND many pattern alterations. I have a friend who wears the same modern dress size, but is the exact opposite. When she makes 40's patterns, she looks fantastic without foundations but needs a waist cincher or corset for 50's patterns. That's the great thing about living in 2009 and sewing/wearing vintage. We get to pick from the whole century to find what suits us best.
ReplyDelete I'm not into vintage and definitely don't want to walk around in a pointy bra. But I am a firm believer in "proper" foundation garments. I believe there are great products on the market (I own quite a few) that will give you that same smoothing and shaping effect as the ones of the past. I remember seeing my grandmother struggle in and out of her long line girdle with the panels. Yeah... I don't want to do that! Spanx work great for me.
ReplyDelete- AnonymousDecember 22, 2009 at 10:33 AM
Well, it depends on what look you're going for. If you want to look period-accurate in your vintage or vintage-repro than you need to wear the proper foundation. It's the difference between looking right and wrong. But if you want a casual, "modern" vintage look than obviously you won't be wearing a girdle.
Wearing a girdle isn't about having a warped body image, but rather about improving what you have.
I wear a long-line bra and a waist cincher/girdle on most days because I like the look the thinner look the undergarments create and because they improve my posture! I find other women's complaints about sculpting undergarments being uncomfortable cute because it's not like they were any more comfortable in the 40s and 50s! Yet women wore them anyway and the effect was stricking enough that modern women want to achieve the same results. I prefer the foundation garments available to us today, Spanx, for example, the ones you have chosen to wear. I have no desire to torture myself into wearing what they wore back then, especially the pointy bras. It would just look weird in today's time. I choose vintage because I think the styles are so pretty, but I'm not trying to look like I'm from that era; so I prefer to modernize my vintage. Basically, my view is similar to yours.
ReplyDeleteI think the phrase "to look like an illustration on a 50's pattern envelope" is the problem. Those were drawings, not photos. Not to mention, long time wear of any garment causes body shape to change. Just look around at the current muffin tops for proof. Did you know George Washington was "girdled" as a child? the straight back and perfect posture was a created form.
ReplyDeleteI don't think of myself as a purist, but I do own many vintage and vintage inspired foundation pieces. andI am a skinny minnie, but it puts the pieces where they should be for a vintage dress. Plus I dont wear pantyhose so I need foundation garments with garter straps to hold up my stockings. I have a full corsolette girdle form the 50s that I adore, its comfortable and gives me a pseudo hourglass figure and bullet bra silhouette. It also holds up my stockings... you cant beat it :) Plus, men think it s hot..
When it comes to actual vintage I am quite a purist, although I sometimes make dresses from vintage patterns because I love to sew. but I prefer the real thing.Since I have started wearing skirts on my waist or closer to my waist I have had real issues with undergarments. Most of the problem is caused by multiple waistlines, i.e. my skirt at my waist, my tights at my waist and my leggings or long underwear (either over or under the tights-It's Chicago people) falling at a under belly bulge low rise level. It just accentuates the belly bulge and is REALLY uncomfortable. Though having multiple articles at my waist isn't so great either. i need to explore the SPANX aisle more. If that all in one in the illustration was relatively comfy and actually looked semi-close to that in real life- It would be perfect and I would love to own one.
I think whatever you are comfortable with is a good way to go. But particularly when buying vintage (vs. sewing vintage) it is good to at least understand that those women were dealing with a completely different ball game when it came to undergarments. My biggest question has always been how do you pee?Just in general, people shun foundation garments. If you don't have to wear them great, but most vintage clothing was designed with wearing foundation garments in mind.
I hate girdles and boning. But I recognize that it makes a lot of clothing prettier on me. And if you find that foundation garments make an outfit look bad on you, ask yourself if it looked good before.
PeaceI am a big, big fan of vintage undergarments and of clothes that fit the waist. I cannot wear a wiggle dress without a girdle, because of the "dents" in my hips created by far too much wearing of low-cut undies and jeans. As someone above said, the clothes you wear 'shape' your body...not just your fat deposits.
I also have never found a proper fitting longline bra or girdle to be uncomfortable. Different, yes, but the slight squeeze is a nice feeling to me. If you're wearing a full skirt, most women shouldn't need a girdle as your hips aren't on display, but a longline bra or waist cincher does improve the line and the shape that wearing such a dress is trying to achieve to begin with.
I always wanted to put out a WARNING AGAINST What Katie Did shapewear for those who actually need it to SHAPE. There sizing is quite quite OFF, and the girdles are not very well made. The boning is useless in them as it doesn't even cover the length of the girdles. I do love their stockings though...I L-O-V-E wearing girdles and long line bras, if they fit properly. I am probably not a good example though because I sang at a renaissance fair for 12 years and 50s undergarments are heaven next to a renaissance corset.
I have tried spanx but I have an incredibly short torso so they tend to roll down on me. I also like to wear thigh high socks alot so girdles are the way to go for me most days. I am very chesty too, so a bullet bra makes my back feel better.
I agree that it comes down to comfort, but I also think that one should keep in mind the overall look too. I do a lot of reenacting so I have seen many examples of women who not only don't wear period or repro undergarments, but wear ill-fitting modern garments. One thing I wish still existed was the importance placed on properly fitted undergarments. That never goes out of style!I have zero experience with shaping underwear, so I can't say I prefer it or not. But I wonder, maybe it was a little easier for women in the 40s-60s to get into and wear those garments, because their bodies are closer to that shape? I doubt it was comfortable for them too, but just a thought.
ReplyDeleteIn every day life, I wear high waisted dress pants or skirts and retro styled high waisted undies, to "smooth the line". I'd get a long line bra, but I'm really busty and haven't found any that fit and I can afford!
I was lucky enough to find a vintage skirt girdle and dress girdle (with bra cups that FIT!!) that are awesome, and I'll likely wear them under some dresses, but said dresses are being made so I can wear them without the girdles for an every-day thing.
I'm considering ordering an "unbelievabra" in the short style, to wear as a long line bra... I'm just not sure how it will look, with the rounded padded cups.- Twill JillDecember 22, 2009 at 2:59 PM
I don't feel I *must* wear vintage undgergarments when I'm wearing vintage clothes. I do own some pieces that are lovely - but not always comfy. My foundation garment choices are based more on my overall look. One thing I admire about women of the 40's & 50's was that they knew how to be LADIES. I despise this tacky fashion trend some women have of wearing dark bras under lite colored tops, or purposely letting bra straps show, or (puke!) letting their thongs pop out of their pants. I consider my unmentionables to be a secret that I'm not willing to share with just anyone. It's more important to me to look classy, rather than looking 100% vintage-y. I choose my foundation garments to ensure class and tact more than anything.
ReplyDelete The 1294 is a popular girdle, but may not be the best choice for someone who has never worn a traditional girdle before – it's one of the firmest on the market. We've had a vintage clothing site for years (although it's much smaller now due to our focus on intimate apparel) and I modeled hundreds of vintage dresses over the years. It didn't take long to realize that proper shapewear was a must, especially with those hour-glass side zip dresses. The difference was very surprising. I've also worn dozens of styles of girdles. Some were (and are)perfect and flattering, others made me look worse that not wearing one at all. Personally, the 1294 is not one of my favorites, but we have many customers that love it and it works for them.
ReplyDeleteFor people who aren't skilled in pattern alteration, or those who buy vintage clothing, I think foundation garments can be really helpful. I have quite a small bust, and I find that wearing a bullet bra helps me fill out a dress much better than a smooth cup would. I wear a suspender belt everyday because I hate having to constantly pull up or adjust my tights at the front. I have a girdle but haven't worn it out yet so I'm not sure what that will do for me - but as another poster commented, I hate the double-butt look that comes from wearing hipster briefs.
I'm not a vintage purist at all, however. I just like pretty lingerie! I'd rather wear a girdle than spanx because mentally, I feel less frumpy, and I'll carry myself differently.I fall on the Yea side of foundation garments. If you want a period accurate silhouette you need them. That doesn't mean you must wear them to enjoy period clothes though. I have plenty of vintage dresses that I wear with regular modern bras, it just means that the end shape is slightly different that what it was when the dress was made. And new versions of vintage patterns are drafted with modern figures, and that means foundation garments, in mind. I think the big problem with them is the same problem that exists with regular foundation garments today, miracles are expected of them and they are often not fit correctly. Plus we modern women are used to complete freedom of movement so they can take some getting used to. But foundation garments are half the fun of vintage looks!
ReplyDeleteI wrote a 4-part series on girdles(it was supposed to be 5, but it seems that I never posted the final part!)back in June. It's aimed at those who have never worn one before. Here's the link:
If you have any questions, never be afraid to ask!Just like modern garments sometimes require different types of undergarments, so too do vintage styles. When reproducing a dress from Vintage Vogue circa 1954, I could not wear a modern bra without looking frumpy. Instead of going full fledged vintage underwear, I bought a low backed modern corset that gave me the correct upper body shape. It was comfortable and looked fabulous. In the end, I think it depends on the clothing, the body, and the overall desired look. Sometimes a hybrid of vintage and modern looks better on a body than just one or the other. Also, ones' attitude greatly affects the look - If I believe I look great, I do! I also swear by the spanx doctrine!
ReplyDelete- AnonymousDecember 23, 2009 at 11:32 AM
Darn work filters... I can't see the longline bra because,
URL request denied by SmartFilter. (content_filter_denied) Your request was denied because of its content categorization: "Online Shopping;Provocative Attire"
I wear Spanx (or rather, the cheaper Target alternative) nearly every day. Aside from having to take Prilosec every day to counteract the intense GERD they cause, I love them! I have not tried longline bras or traditional girdles but I am in favor of wearing shaping undergarments on an every-day basis and would like to experiment with them more.
I guess that makes it a conditional "Yay" for me.
Thus ends my first comment on your blog though I've been reading and back-reading rather obsessively for a few weeks now! Yea, for special occasions. I have a waist cincher (from Frederick's of Hollywood, but totally not tacky!) that I wear when I want a slimmer, firmer waistline under my 1950's dresses. I got it to keep my post-baby belly contained so I woudn't have to make/alter my dresses for a waist size that is only temporary.
I like the way my cincher reminds me to maintain good posture. The improved posture alone makes the whole dress look better.
I also like the security of knowing that I'm not straining the seams of my dress when I go for a second piece of pie.
Structural undergarments do the same thing that silky undies do for me, they whisper a little reminder that I'm a sexy beast underneath whatever I'm wearing. The reminder changes the way I feel and the way I carry myself.
I know that at the end of the night it will be a treat for my DH to see my fancy undie ensemble. Being seen in sweaty Spanx does not have the same effect.
I prefer the waist cincher over a girdle or longline bra for the same reasons I make dresses instead of buying them: I can find something that fits either my bust or my waist or my hips but not everything at once. Even if I do find something that works size-wise, the vertical intervals are never right because I'm tall. A separate bra and waist cincher under a full skirt works for me!For the ladies who do vintage dressing almost everyday or as part of historical re-enactment, I think they personally enjoy going one step beyond the "call of duty" and putting themselves in the same shoes (or undergarments) that the women they try to emulate would have worn.
If you don't like them or don't have the money to spend on them, there shouldn't be any pressure to conform to that standard. Every person who wears vintage or sews from vintage patterns does it for different reason and has different intentions, and should wear whatever bra or stockings (or go completely without) that suits their purpose.Dotted Lines- I am a 38DD and I get all of my longline bras from the online store ladygrace.com and they cost between $25-30, which is cheaper than some regular bras. Plus, if you sign up for her newsletter she'll let you know when she is having a sale.
The one I use a lot is the Bali longline bra. I am shorter waisted so I wear the bra under the girdle (as opposed to on top as seen in most vintage pics) so it doesn't flip up.Everyone needs to make their own decision about this, but personally, I love girdles. I first encountered them when I was in a play set around 1964. The wardrobe mistress insisted that all the women in the play wear real long-leg panty girdles as women in the period would have worn. Her argument was that the girdles would give us not just the right look for the period, but the right posture and body language as well. At first, we did a lot of mumbling and grumbling, and at first, to be honest, I found my girdle very tight and confining and not something that I would have wanted to wear on a regular basis. But then eventually I and most of the other women in the play got used to them. And I loved the feeling of getting used to them. I found that my girdle made me feel ladylike, elegant, and dignified in a way I like, and it gave me a spectacular figure in the dresses and suit I wore in the play. After the play, I become interested in wearing vintage and now wear it much of the time and I choose to do so with a girdle and stockings. To me it feels right, and very feminine. But I definitely think it should be a matter of individual choice. However much I love them now, I do breath a sigh of comfortable release when I get undressed at the end of a day.
ReplyDeleteThis is a really interesting discussion and I've enjoyed reading the responses. Personally, I love the vintage look but I don't think I'll be wearing vintage underwear anytime soon. Where I live, it's uncomfortable wearing regular bras and undies in warm weather so this kind of foundation garment would probably kill me. I haven't tried things like spanx but I know some ladies swear by them. Even though the fabric is modern, I'd still find it too hot to wear in the subtropics. Living in a place where clothing covers very little, I have had to resort to a lot of gym work and accepting my imperfect shape. Having said all of that, I do rather fancy a long line bra. Several readers have mentioned posture and I must say that is something I never thought of. Modern women do not sit the way women in the 40s, 50s or 60s did. I can see how these vintage foundation garments would make you sit correctly. Maybe I could try them in winter? Thanks for an interesting and thought provoking post.
ReplyDeleteIf you are wearing vintage and you want to help your garment last as long as possible, a proper foundation garment will help take the strain that aging and worn fabrics usually cannot, no matter how gently one tries to wear them.
Also, one has to consider bust and waist darts and other shaping - just as one cannot wear 40's suit jackets without shoulder pads, one cannot achieve a wasp waist or high pointed bust without similar foundations.- AnonymousDecember 27, 2009 at 8:56 PM
I've got the girdles but am looking for a bra that enhances. I've got plenty (38C)...but I guess I want a bullet bra. I'm tired of having the round, soft silhouette.
However, someday when I get married I'll need the flat bra as I'll wear my grandmothers 1925 dress.
but for now, I'm looking for the bullet bra--and always telling my nieces to wear proper foundation garments. - AnonymousDecember 27, 2009 at 9:07 PM
oh yes...I forgot to mention, I received a 1957 Sears catalogue for a Christmas present this week. Oh, how I wish I could place an order!!
ReplyDelete I totally used to wear vintage foundation garments under my vintage fashions when I was younger and had the "shape" for wearing the styles.
My new post-baby body isn't vintage-fashion freindly. So, my new attitide is to wear vintage inspired styles that fit my body and are comfy - sans constricting foundation garments.Hi everyone, I have been wearing head to toe vintage for about 5 years now, but apart from stockings and suspender belts, vintage underwear has alluded me, manly due to my size, I'm 5 foot with a 24" waist and a Uk 30D bust line, so finding vintage undergarments to fit me can be a challenge. I have tried Ebay and numerous vintage stores and markets to no avail. Does anyone know of any modern company that make vintage underwear in small sizes, without costing a complete fortune (I'm a student). I think I'm going to give up on looking for the genuine article and settle on the next best thing
thanks everyone, Gertie your blog is amazingWonderful blog!
I'm always amazed at the vehement opposition to vintage styled underwear! Is it simply that we have got so used to lycra and laziness? Looking around me that habit certainly hasn't done our shapes any favours. I'm also stunned that anyone could prefer the stuffed sausage effect of something like Spanx, which lets face it are pretty ugly, to the various attractive styles and designs of longline bras, merry widows, cinchers and girdles. I'd much prefer some satin and lace to repellent big fleshtone lycra pants!
Now obviously vintage styled undies aren't essential for everyday wear or casual wear and noone is going to twist anyones arm! But if you want the silhouette and look you love (if you love vintage) then you have to get the structure right before you drape a frock on top of it :) It doesn't have to be uncomfortable, not if it fits! Trouble is so many of us try to squeeze into the wrong size, and sometimes so did our grannies for that matter!
I'd recommend Rago. They still run a few styles they've used for years. They do black and the quality is good.- AnonymousJanuary 8, 2010 at 11:15 AM
I havent started making clothes to wear yet, as I am still in the proccess of altering my slopers to fit perfectly, but I have been designing some of the clothes that I will make to wear and many of the designs have vintage roots. I am even considering someday making a cute 1950's swimsuit with a 'puff' skirt that I saw on the internet.
When it comes to foundations, I do find vintage concepts to be more flattering than modern shapes, even under modern clothes. A pointy bra is a no no for me as it would look rediculous on my large breasts but the longline feature is perfect. Also something about modern underwear that I find frustrating is the rise of the knickers. often they reveal too much of the fleshy stretchmarked reality of my stomach, and unfortunately sit below the 'ledge' at the bottom of my stomach. The higher rise (just below or on the bellybutton) is much more flattering and reduces the appearence of my stomach, so despite being berated by a (rather slim) friend for wearing 'enormous granny pants' I will stick to the theory that a little mystery is sexy. I don't think that a girdle is a could idea though, because what is squashed down must come out somewhere and cause more horrific bumps than before. Instead pants of a sturdy fabric that skim over my irregularities are the best for comfortably disguising unwanted bumps under clothes.
Grr, my friend has had 2 children and still has a firm stomach, but I grew so fast during puberty that I have never had one insted my skin was literally stretched to its limits, and from the waist down I have a figure like I'm the one who has had kids. We're both 21, wheres the fairness in that?
Grumble over, someday I will have the money to pay for a youthful stomach for the first time in my life. ;) What an interesting discussion! I came across this blog while doing a search for retro underwear and foundation garment sewing patterns. I see pattern companies making retro dresses and such, I wish they would make patterns for girdles, bras, longlines, all-in-ones, and so on. It would probably make these undergarments more flattering and comfortable if we could make them ourselves.
ReplyDelete- AnonymousJuly 10, 2013 at 8:46 AM
Posture and Foundation Garments a Research Paper Done by Cornell Univerity: http://en.wikisource.org/wiki/Posture_%26_Foundation_Garments
I found this article very interesting and even though this research article was done a number of years ago it applies very much to today and the postive and health benefits of daily wearing a well fitted girdle has on posture.
If you like to discuss girdles and corsets please go to http://www.voy.com/224381/


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Portrait of Maquoketa
Rose Frantzen's portrait of her hometown of Maquoketa, Iowa, is a multi-layered installation that began in 2006 when she invited townspeople to sit and have their portraits painted in a public studio she set up in a downtown storefront. The resulting 180 portraits, of sitters ranging in age from a few weeks to over 90, were shown at the National Portrait Gallery in Washington DC, in 2009. Subsequently, Frantzen painted a panoramic view of the town, seen across autumn fields, on 34 vertical panels. In the finished work, the panels hang in arcs across the gallery, with the portraits installed on their reverse sides, creating a composite portrait of a typical Midwestern town. An audio element by John Frantzen completes the scene. Created with an initial grant from the Iowa Arts Council, the work was acquired by the Figge Art Museum for its permanent collection in 2013, thanks to the generous efforts of multiple donors.
On view October 1, 2016-February 12, 2017
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2-4 pm Sunday, October 2
Opening Reception
7 pm Thursday, October 20
Curator Talk
Rose Frantzen, with engineering assistance from Chuck Morris and audio compositions by John Frantzen, Portrait of Maquoketa: The Dimensional View, 2005–2012, oil on multiple panels with audio, Figge Art Museum Collection, Museum purchase with funds contributed by: Judy Kern and Kent Whealy, James and Marcia Borel, Andrew and Debi Butler, Mark and Deborah Schwiebert, The Henry Family Foundation, Amir and Lisa Arbisser, The Beaux Arts Fund Committee, Frances Emerson and Robert McClurg, J. Hunt and Diane Harris II, Chris and Mary Rayburn, Susan Quail, Barney and Sandra Barnhill, Don Doucette and Lynn Drazinski, James Havercamp, Delia and Dave Meier, Jim and Michelle Russell, Mark and Dana Wilkinson, Tara Barney, Cynthia Carlson, John and Kay Hall, Kay Runge, Rick and Nancy Seidler, the Friends of the Figge and the Figge Art Museum Acquisitions Fund, 2015.1

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David of Wales
Our father among the saints David of Wales (ca. 512-587), known in Welsh as Dewi Sant, was a 6th century bishop and monastic founder in Wales and is its patron saint. He is also known as the Dewi Ddyfrwr (David the Water Drinker) due to his drinking only water and the founding of many holy wells associated with his life. His feast day in the Church is March 1.
Much of our information on the early history of Saint David comes from two sources: the 11th/12th century hagiography Buchedd Dewi (Life of David) of Rhigyfarch and the 12th-century writings of Giraldus Cambrensis (Gerald of Wales). David was a descendant of the royal house of Cunedda. Rhigyfarch wrote that David was the son of Sanctus Rex Ceredigionis, where Sanctus has been interpreted as a proper name and its owner honoured by Welsh Christians as Saint Sant. The Latin phrase itself translates as "a holy king of Ceredigion." The king of Ceredigion in the 510s was Gwyddno Garanhir, according to regional tradition. His title Garanhir ("crane legs"), certainly indicated spiritual accomplishment to the Druids who bestowed it. If the son of King Gwyddno, David was a grandson of King Ceredig, and a nephew of King Maelgwn of Gwynedd, and a brother of Elphin the successor to the Kingdom of Ceredigion and the foster-father and first patron of the bard Taliesin. Little is known of his mother, Non (honoured by Welsh Christians as Saint Non), though she is said to have been the daughter of a local chieftain - some versions of the meeting of Sant (or Gwyddno) and Non state that Sant forced himself upon Non.
David was born on a stormy night at or near Capel Non (Non's chapel) within a short walk of the present day city of Saint David's. The ruins of the medieval chapel are visible near the site, and a nearby well is still a site of pilgrimage. He was baptised by the Irish monk St. Elvis, and educated at the monastery of Hen Fynyw. After ordination, David was taught by the elderly monk Paulinus, whose blindness the young David healed by making the sign of the cross over the monk's eyelids.
He became renowned as a teacher and preacher, founding monasteries in Britain and Brittany (on the west coast of modern France), in a period when neighbouring tribal regions (that were to be united as England three hundred years later) were still mostly pagan. He rose to a bishopric, and presided over two synods, as well as going on pilgrimages to Jerusalem where he was anointed as a bishop by the patriarch.
St. David's Cathedral now stands on the site of the monastery he founded in southwest Pembrokeshire; in early medieval Britain this part of Wales was located near several important Celtic sea routes, and was not nearly as remote as it might seem today. A shrine to Saint David, containing his bones, the bones of his spiritual father Saint Justinian of Ramsey Island, and possibly those of Saint Caradoc, is located within the cathedral.
The Monastic Rule of David prescribed that monks had to pull the plow themselves without draught animals; to drink only water; to eat only bread with salt and herbs; and to spend the evenings in prayer, reading and writing. No personal possessions were allowed: to say "my book" was an offence. He taught his followers to fast, especially refraining from eating meat or imbibing alcohol. His symbol, also the symbol of Wales, is the leek.
The best-known miracle associated with St. David is said to have taken place on an occasion when he was preaching in the middle of a large crowd. When those at the back complained that they could not see or hear him, the ground on which he stood is reputed to have risen up to form a small hill so that everyone had a good view. The village which is said to stand on the spot today is known as Llanddewi Brefi. A more mundane version of this story is that he simply recommended that the synod participants move to the hilltop.
One of Rhigyfarch's aims in the Buchedd Dewi was that his document could establish some independence for the Welsh church, which was risking losing its independence following the Norman invasion of England in 1066. It is significant that David is said to have denounced Pelagianism during the incident before the ground rose beneath him. Giraldus Cambrensis, the nephew of a Bishop of St. David's similarly hoped to demonstrate the ancient independence of the see as the archbishopric of an independent Welsh church; he was himself nominated for the position of Bishop of St. David's on at least three occasions, but was turned down by Henry II initially and the Archbishop of Canterbury subsequently after the accession of John.
William of Malmesbury recorded that David visited Glastonbury intending to dedicate the abbey there, as well as to donate a travelling altar including a great sapphire. He had a vision there of Jesus Christ who said that "the church had been dedicated long ago by Himself in honour of His Mother, and it was not seemly that it should be re-dedicated by human hands." So David instead commissioned an extension to be built to the abbey, east of the Old Church. (The dimensions of this extension given by William were archaeologically verified in 1921.) One manuscript indicates that a sapphire altar was among the items King Henry VIII confiscated from the abbey at its dissolution a thousand years later. There are unverifiable indications that the sapphire may now be among the Crown Jewels of the United Kingdom.
His last words, according to the Buchedd Dewi, were: "Be steadfast, brothers, and do the little things."
External links
Categories > Church History
Categories > Church History
Categories > Church History
Categories > Church History
Categories > Liturgics > Feasts
Categories > Liturgics > Feasts
Categories > Liturgics > Feasts
Categories > Liturgics > Feasts
Categories > People > Clergy > Bishops
Categories > People > Clergy > Bishops > Bishops by century > 6th-century bishops
Categories > People > Monastics
Categories > People > Saints
Categories > People > Saints > Pre-Schism Western Saints
Categories > People > Saints > Saints by century > 6th-century saints
Categories > People > Saints > Saints of the British Isles


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(*) 3.2.1. Source: 2011 Ad Tracking Study. The survey results are based on 1200 online interviews with a national random sample of adults (ages 18+) who are equal decision makers and who have bought or sold a home within the past two years or plan to purchase or sell a home within the next two years. Brand awareness questions are based on a sample of 1200 respondents at 90% confidence level with a margin of error of +/-2.4%. The study was conducted between September 5 – November 31, 2011 by Millward Brown, a leading global market research organization.


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t-shirt from Isabel. american apparel sheer button-down. repetto shoes, gift. rodarte for target tights, and due to FTC regulations I am supposed to let you know that I received compensation and pieces from the rodarte for target collection for my collaboration with target. prada lip skirt. wren black skirt underneath.
Despite my expression I was DYING inside, as I was the WHOLE DAY. I normally wouldn't wear such godly pieces of godliness to school amongst all those MERE MORTALS! With their AXE and their OLD SPICE! But alas, I am a mortal as well; one with greasy fingers and a runny nose, even. Still, I could not resist, and really wanted to break out the grey one this morning.
I don't think there was really any inspiration, I think I wanted to wear the skirt as a kind of babydoll dress and then add semi-gothteenager stuff, like the lace and the sheer button-down, to make it more creepy and less girly, more moody teenager, make it not look like something Charlotte would've worn on Sex and the City. The navy shoes just looked right. And I sort of like the idea of trying to cover a gray t-shirt with a nice button-down and fancy girly lips.
Also, I look like a penguin.
I enjoy how it looks like I'm taking off a wig. Speaking of this hair of mine, it's pretty much grey now! And it's lots of fun, because people can't figure out if I'm 80 or 13. Sometimes I don't know either, as most of the time I just like to bicker about the state of our world and wear hats, in various locations, including school, park benches, and my home.
Had to fasten the skirt to stay up using a baby pin. Putting a hole through the glorious fabric was painful but ended up not really affecting the skirt, THANKFULLY. And it sort of adds to the babydoll dress thing, in a weird way.
And a better picture of the print. Notice how the lips practically GLOW. Do your lips practically GLOW? And those pleeeeeaats. No.words.
The shoes are too big for me but I put them on for the picture. I do and don't want to grow. If I do, I'll fit more into these shoes and other clothes, but I'll also outgrow some of my current favorite pieces. DECISIONS, DECISIONS. Um, not that I have a choice. But! Anyway:
I was also lucky enough to receive the skirt with red lips, which I plan to somehow incorporate into a creepy nurse/Richard Prince outfit.
Oh, life. Oh, people! You are very good to me, and I am lucky. One day I will be saying to my grandchildren, "You know, I once had a blog, which is like those hologram things you kids have now, but it was on a big cubic device. And some people kinda got a kick out of it, and I sometimes got things like skirts from Prada." And they'll be like "LOL OK TIME FOR BED, BUBBE."


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Release Americans 'Immediately,' Ambassador Rice Tells Egypt
Saying that "these Americans have done absolutely nothing wrong," the U.S. ambassador to the United Nations this morning called on Egypt to immediately allow 19 U.S. citizens to leave that country and to drop plans to accuse them of illegally funding groups that oppose Egypt's ruling military regime.
On CBS News' This Morning, Ambassador Susan Rice said that if Egypt follows through and charges the Americans with crimes there could be "serious consequences for our bilateral relations."
Egypt is due to get about $1.5 billion in U.S. aid this year.
The Americans, as we've previously reported, include Sam LaHood — the 36-year-old son of Transportation Secretary Ray LaHood. The younger man directs the Egypt offices of the International Republican Institute, a U.S.-government sponsored organization that promotes democracy. He has previously said the IRI has done nothing to aid the groups that have been protesting against the military council that took control after the toppling of President Hosni Mubarak's regime one year ago.
Some of the Americans are being sheltered at the U.S. embassy in Cairo. All told, Egypt says it plans to charge 40 people — including 14 Egyptians — with allegedly fomenting opposition.


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Update at 11:36 a.m. ET. Starts Tuesday:
"The eighth General Congregation of the College of Cardinals has decided that the Conclave will begin on Tuesday, 12 March 2013," reads a statement just sent to reporters by the Vatican Press Office. It adds that:
"A pro eligendo Romano Pontifice Mass will be celebrated in St. Peter's Basilica in the morning. In the afternoon the cardinals will enter into the Conclave."
Our original post — "Cardinals Expected To Set Date For Start Of Conclave":
Roman Catholic cardinals meeting at the Vatican are expected to vote Friday on just when to start their conclave that will lead to the selection of a successor to the now-retired Pope Benedict XVI.
NPR's Sylvia Poggioli reports from Rome that the Vatican will likely announce the date in the early evening there, which would be early afternoon in the eastern U.S.
Reuters adds that Vatican spokesman Father Federico Lombardi told reporters it's "likely" the conclave will start early next week. All 115 of the cardinals who are under the age of 80 (making them eligible to vote) are now in Rome.
Copyright 2021 NPR. To see more, visit https://www.npr.org.


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Competing against a field of 32 area schools in the annual Northern Region wrestling tournament, the Bishop Ireton Cardinals celebrated an eighth place finish last weekend.
Senior Andrew Lutterloh proved to be the turning point for Ireton, beating Annandale's Ali Musa 2-1 to secure the Cardinals top-10 finish. While Musa fell narrowly to Lutterloh, his teammates helped Annandale finish second in the competition. Fauquier proved untouchable, winning the tournament handily.
Among Ireton's standouts, Nick Womack earned a fourth-place finish and Darcy Gomez placed fifth. Mike Rodriguez and Andrew Bladen earned sixth-place finishes for the team as well.
But Lutterloh, the tournament champion, stole the show. He enjoyed two pins on the way to the title match with Musa. Lutterloh is the second Ireton wrestler to nab the individual title in as many years. Elliot Mondragon clinched the award in the 2010 tournament.


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Congress is ushering in the new and the old — dozens of eager freshmen determined to change Washington and the harsh reality of another stretch of bitterly divided government.
The 113th Congress will convene Thursday at the constitutionally required time of noon for pomp, pageantry and politics as newly elected members of the House and Senate are sworn in and the speaker of the Republican-controlled House is chosen. The traditions come against the backdrop of a mean season that closed out an angry election year.
A deal to avert the "fiscal cliff" of big tax increases and spending cuts split the parties in New Year's Day votes, and the House's failure to vote on a Superstorm Sandy aid package before adjournment prompted GOP recriminations against the leadership.
"There's a lot of hangover obviously from the last few weeks of this session into the new one, which always makes a fresh start a lot harder," Rep. Kevin Brady, R-Texas, said.
For all the change of the next Congress, the new bosses are the same as the old bosses.
President Barack Obama secured a second term in the November elections, and Democrats tightened their grip on the Senate for a 55-45 edge in the new two-year Congress, ensuring that Sen. Harry Reid, D-Nev., will remain in charge. Republicans maintained their majority in the House but will have a smaller advantage, 235-199. Former Democratic Rep. Jesse Jackson Jr.'s Illinois seat is the one vacancy.
Speaker John Boehner, R-Ohio, has faced a bruising few weeks with his fractious GOP caucus but seemed poised to win another term as speaker. He mollified angry Republicans from New York and New Jersey on Wednesday with the promise of a vote Friday on $9 billion of the storm relief package and another vote on the remaining $51 billion on Jan. 15.
The GOP members quickly abandoned their chatter about voting against the speaker.
The new Congress still faces the ideological disputes that plagued the dysfunctional 112th Congress, one of the least productive in more than 60 years. Tea partyers within the Republican ranks insist on fiscal discipline in the face of growing deficits and have pressed for deep cuts in spending as part of a reduced role for the federal government. Democrats envision a government with enough resources to help the less fortunate and press for the wealthiest to pay more in taxes.
"We can only hope for more help," said Sen. Joe Manchin, D-W.Va., who was re-elected in November. "Any time you have new members arriving you have that expectation of bringing fresh ideas and kind of a vitality that is needed. We hope that they're coming eager to work hard and make some difficult decisions and put the country first and not be bogged down ideologically."
The next two months will be crucial, with tough economic issues looming. Congress put off for just eight weeks automatic spending cuts to defense and domestic programs that were due to begin with the new year. The question of raising the nation's borrowing authority also must be decided. Another round of ugly negotiations between Obama and Congress is not far off.
There are 12 newly elected senators — eight Democrats, three Republicans and one independent, former Maine Gov. Angus King, who will caucus with the Democrats. They will be joined by Rep. Tim Scott, the first black Republican in decades, who was tapped by South Carolina Gov. Nikki Haley to fill the remaining term of Sen. Jim DeMint. The conservative DeMint resigned to lead the Heritage Foundation think tank.
In a sign of some diversity for the venerable body, the Senate will have three Hispanics — Democratic Sen. Bob Menendez of New Jersey, Republican Sen. Marco Rubio of Florida and one of the new members, Republican Ted Cruz of Texas. There will be 20 women in the 100-member chamber, the highest number yet.
At least one longtime Democrat, Sen. John Kerry of Massachusetts, will be departing in a few weeks, nominated by Obama to be secretary of state. That opens the door to former Republican Sen. Scott Brown, the only incumbent senator to lose in November's elections, to possibly make a bid to return to Washington.
Eighty-two freshmen join the House — 47 Democrats and 35 Republicans. Women will total 81 in the 435-member body — 62 Democrats and 19 Republicans.
In the Senate, Reid and Republican leader Mitch McConnell are negotiating possible changes in the rules as lawmakers face a bitter partisan fight over filibusters, according to a Senate Democratic leadership aide who spoke on condition of anonymity because he was not authorized to speak publicly about private matters.
Reid has complained that Republicans filibuster too often and has threatened to impose strict limits with a simple majority vote. That step could set off retaliatory delays and other maneuvers by Republicans, who argue that they filibuster because Reid often blocks them from offering amendments.
The aide said Reid was preserving the option of making changes with a simple majority vote.
The start of the new Congress also offers a comeback for one lawmaker. Sen. Mark Kirk, R-Ill., who suffered a stroke last January and has been absent for the past year, plans a dramatic return to the Capitol by walking up the 45 steps to the Senate's doors.
Copyright 2012 The Associated Press


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"I feel old! Turning 44 has not been good on me." I looked at my dear friend and smiled. She did not look 44. Her face glowed and the skin was smooth without the blemishes years tend to gather.
"Make sure you enjoy your 40th … after that it just does not go down well!" she warned me.
I looked at her, laughing nervously as she read my thoughts.
Age has never been an issue with me. I always live for the moment and enjoy the now. I never like looking too far into the future - it's uncontrollable and unpredictable. I like having a plan or a goal to follow, but that is always regardless of the age I am. At 16, and the only time I wished I was a different age, all I wanted to be was 30. For me 30 portrayed my goal of having made it - a university degree under my belt, working in a good paying job, career on the roll, maybe with the man of my dreams. It was not the age but rather my plan and I wanted to get there by 30.
This became my potent stimulus and drove me forward. I enjoyed turning 18 entering adulthood and experiencing a new kind of freedom, 21 was great, where I focused on my studies and came to a new country, 25 saw me enter into a new phase as a working girl in a big firm and by 30 I had found the man of my dreams and was 6 months pregnant. Sure there were a few turbulences along the way and I sometimes had to take detours, but as my dad always told me, it's the result that counts. At 30 I was really pleased with the results.
The funny thing about age, I guess, is that it just happens to you. One day you wake up and all of a sudden you panic because you realize you have tons on your list that you still want to achieve but somehow time has just halved itself. This perception dawned on me earlier this year. On Saturday I will turn 40 and for the first time in my life I am thinking of my age. 18, 21, 30 were all just numbers that blew past me, but 40 looms over my head and I admit I am feeling a slight anxiety. Not because I feel old, or rather older than I was, but because I fear not being able to achieve all I want to in the time I have.
There have also been other symptoms reminding of the big 4-0 ahead. I used to crack up at the stories I would hear about the 40+ years, but I swear, I take back every joke and every sarcastic comment I ever made and apologize from the bottom of my 18 year old heart. Truth be told I think I am experiencing some of these symptoms too.
Forgetfulness: You begin to forget the most trivial of things, cannot put names to the faces you have met or leave your child in the driveway carrying some heavy bags as you rush inside to dump your own bags. On the way back out you get distracted and then "errr wasn't there something I forgot?" and then carry on until your child screams from the driveway.
Libido: You still find your husband desirous but hey, are you stealing glances at the 20+ GymBoy pumping weights in his tight tank top?
PMS: so what's up with the bitch-like PMS that sometimes lasts for most of the month? Better watch out for those mood swings, buddy, it can get very ugly if you cross paths.
Gravitation: "Gravitation is most familiar as the agent that gives weight to objects with mass and causes them to fall to the ground when dropped." (source Wikipedia)
Parts of your body begin to adhere to this rule!
Wrinkles, Folds and Creases: Who gave them permission to make an appearance on your face? Did you know they have names? Crows feet creeping up under your eyes, worry lines taking up room on your forehead, nasolabial folds around your lips. Why would anyone want give these unwanted guests names anyway?
Apparently these are only some of the symptoms, there are more, as I have been warned. My friend told me "Meeta, make sure you really celebrate your 40! Because you will not celebrate 50 in the same way!"
But 50 - that's far off! I am celebrating the now, the 40. Age - it happens I guess, the best thing to do is to make sure you create pretty darned awesome memories as you go along.
Take this panna cotta for example. The memories attached to the ingredients were so magnificent, I had a constant smile on my face (take that you nasolabial folds) while making them. I bought the clotted cream while shopping with Jeanne in Somerset. I remember the giddy fun we were having and having a freak-out at the yogurt section, seeing all the incredible varieties. I remember drinking the Bisol Prosecco at both the Tuscany and Somerset Plate to Page workshops and being surrounded by a circle of fantastic friends, sitting around a table over decadent meals.
As I reminisced over the memories, I create new ones while making the panna cotta. A long lazy weekend with just Soeren and me, playing a game of garden mikado, giggling and making fun - life is good!
A drizzling of lavender honey infuses the clotted cream mixture giving it a summery, sublime flavor, while the prosecco adds a bubbly fizz to the berries. Decadence and smooth indulgence!
Printable version of recipe here
Prep Time: 30 minutes
Total Time: 40 minutes + 4 hours in fridge
Serves: approx. 6
- 100ml milk
- 100ml heavy cream
- 185g clotted cream
- 40g + 1 tablespoon lavender honey
- 1 leaf gelatin, soaked in water for 5 minutes
- 100g strawberries, hulled and cut into quarters
- 100g blueberries
- 50ml prosecco, I used Bisol
- In a saucepan, bring milk and 40g honey to a gentle simmer, stirring to dissolve the honey. Then add the gelatin and stir until dissolved. Pour the mixture into the heavy cream. Set aside to cool to room temperature.
- Whisk in the clotted cream until smooth. Strain mixture using a fine meshed sieve to make sure all lumps are removed.
- Divide the mixture into six individual glasses. Refrigerate for at least 4 hours or preferably overnight to set.
- In the meantime pour the prosecco in a clean bowl and stir in 2 tablespoons honey. Add the berries and macerate for approx. 30 minutes.
- Remove the panna cotta from the fridge and serve with the berries, either on the side or spooned over the top.
These panna cottas are ageless and will be enjoyed by friends and family of all ages. Doesn't it feel good to know that some things simply timeless?
The bubbly Sneh over at Cook Republic is currently hosting the Monthly Mingle and her theme is a sticky & sweet one "Oh Honey!". I am sending some of these clotted cream and lavender honey panna cottas over to her!
The Monthly Mingle in June is back home here are What's for lunch, Honey?. I have chosen the theme of "Granola and Muesli" and would love you all to send me your creations of your favorite granola or muesli. But it does not stop there, you can go a step further and make granola bars, muesli cookies or whatever takes up your fancy. Look forward to all your entries.
Here's how it works:
- Create a dish that fits the theme of Granola & Muesli.
- Post about it on your blog during the month of June. Your deadline is 30th June. (entries must be in English, please).
- Your creation must be prepared for the current Monthly Mingle theme and can be submitted to a maximum of 2 other blog events.
- You must provide a link to this post and/or the Monthly Mingle page and send the details to me: blogmeeta [at] gmail [dot] com
More "Oh Honey" delectable delights from WFLH:
Chestnut Tree Honey Ice-Cream | Honeyed Ginger Plum Crumble | Grilled Peach with Eucalyptus Honey Yogurt |
All photographs and written content on What's For Lunch, Honey? © 2006-2012 Meeta Khurana Wolff unless otherwise indicated. | All rights reserved | Please Ask First


text:
K.W. Janath Bandaranaika knows a good deal when he sees one. The 49-year-old coconut grower owns some 20 acres of plantation in Sri Lanka's Coconut Triangle, where the ubiquitous coconut tree is used for everything from cooking dinner to cow feed to building homes. The fact that the fruit Bandaranaika has been taking care of all his life is now being pressed into jars of certified organic, fair trade virgin coconut oil and sold to wealthy Americans doesn't make much of an impression. But, he says with a shrug, "If it can be sold at a higher price in the United States, it's good for Sri Lanka."
It certainly could be. As demand for all-things-coconut grows in the U.S., coconut-producing countries from Sri Lanka to Brazil are scrambling to supply foreign firms on the hunt for more fruit. In the Philippines, the world's second largest coconut producer after Indonesia, the government estimates that coconut water exports in the first quarter of 2012 were up 300% over last year as demand in the U.S., Europe and China grew. Coconut oil exports across Asia have also grown 3.3% annually over the past five years, according to the Asian Pacific Coconut Community (APCC), a Jakarta-based industry group.
What's less clear is how — or if — this boom will benefit the men and women at the heart of this global business. For generations, coconut growers like Bandaranaika have been selling to the coconut industry, which traditionally produces whole coconuts, shredded and dried coconut, and copra, the dried meat that is used for oil. It's never been a particularly lucrative living, due in no small part to the fact that many coconut growers across Asia sell to middlemen, who then resell the coconuts to factories for as much as 50% more.
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Rights groups watching the coconut craze worry that as coconut water and coconut-oil products fetch higher and higher prices in western markets, farmers won't get their fair share of the profit. "Popularity and an increase in price in the retail sector doesn't necessarily mean higher wage for poor farmers," says Ainhoa Galan, a research manager at Fairfood International, a Netherlands-based NGO. Indeed, APCC says that in Asia, the increasing demand for coconut water and oil has yet to translate into higher coconut prices due both to fluctuations in local supplies and, in the case of coconut water, to the fact that the young industry is still dominated by a few large companies.
Some companies are making a conscious effort to ensure that farmers don't get squeezed out of the deal. In 2007, Dr. Bronner's Magic Soaps, the cultish California company famous for its "all-one" soaps and eccentric labeling, helped set up the world's first and only certified fair trade and organic coconut oil operation in the Coconut Triangle. "We noticed that coconut oil was becoming really hot," says Gero Leson, director of Dr. Bronner's special operations. "We've been behind on production ever since." Dr. Bronner's expects sales of its food-grade virgin coconut oil to hit $5 million this year, up from $1.25 million in 2011.
To make sure the benefits of that spike are trickling down, Serendipol, Dr. Bronner's partner company in Sri Lanka, has cut out the middlemen and pays their coconut growers direct, premium wages, once they have adopted organic practices and get certified. As part of its fair trade mantra, Serendipol has also been funding community projects throughout the region, clearing out irrigation ponds, installing water tanks at schools, and installing electricity lines in rural villages, among other things. "We don't think we need to keep all the profit ourselves," says Sonali Pandithasekera, Serendipol's chief financial officer. The oil factory's 225 employees, who usher the coconuts along the production line from husking to drying to being pressed for oil, are all paid above-market wages and are on contracts, providing a level of security that's rare. "We think we need to plough some money back into the country," says Pandithasekera.
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It's part of the fair trade ethos that satisfying everyone in a supply chain – from the grower to the factory worker to the vegan baker in Berkeley — is ultimately better for business than less equitable systems. Harmless Harvest, a California-based company that produces raw, organic coconut water in Thailand for the U.S. market, is not registered under a fair trade label, but the company follows what its founders call an "ecosystem-based" business model. "It's in my best interest that a farmer has the best life experience and gets the best advantage out of my experience with them," says Harmless Harvest co-founder Justin Guilbert. "It's a very strict business approach."
In the Coconut Triangle, not everyone is willing to play the long-game. Converting a coconut estate from conventional to organic takes a lot of time and effort, and it has become less financially appealing since Sri Lanka's government has rolled out subsidies on chemical fertilizers. "When the fertilizer became very cheap, it didn't make sense for us," says Nalin Perera, a coconut grower and the representative of the Coconut Growers Association of Sri Lanka in Kuliyapitiya. Perera used to sell to Serendipol, but has since returned to conventional methods and is now selling to other factories in the area. "We just couldn't do it."
For others, the choice isn't theirs to make. B.A. Karunarathana is a second-generation caretaker of a 35-acre plantation marked by tall weeds and weary-looking palms. Like many growers, Karunarathana sells his fruit to a middleman in town. The landowner who employs him lives two hours away in the capital city of Colombo, and won't invest in the fertilizer or new trees to keep the land productive. As a result, Karunarathana says the trees he tends produce 75% less fruit than they did 30 years ago.
Introducing organic practices like composting and mulching can help improve yields in tropical climates by as much as 30%, says Leson of Dr. Bronner's. But finding a way around expensive fertilizers won't be a silver bullet. APCC says coconut plantations across Asia are currently experiencing zero growth, and, in some places, they're getting smaller as farmers sell their land off or convert it to plant more profitable crops like palm oil.
(MORE: Motivate Disgruntled Employees)
Curbing the slow decline in coconut yields will be crucial for farmers and investors alike if global demand continues to grow. If not, people will simply leave, and the coconuts will stop coming. Karunarathana says he makes less money doing this job today than he did when he took over this job from his father as a much younger man. "If this land is improved, my son could take over," he says. "Otherwise he'll have to find something else to do."


text:
Every day something like 550 hospitalized Americans suffer cardiac arrest. That's bad news. Only about one in five will live to leave the hospital.
But for the lucky 44,000 a year who are resuscitated and survive, the outlook is much better than expected, authors of a new study say.
A year later, 60 percent of these survivors will still be alive, the study finds – substantially more than most doctors probably think. The vast majority won't have another cardiac arrest in that time, and a third won't need to be hospitalized again.
"That's huge," study author Paul Chan, a cardiologist at Mid-America Heart Institute in Kansas City, Mo., tells Shots. "That means the majority of patients are going to have at least reasonably meaningful quality of life for the first year."
According to Chan, they have a 45 percent chance of living for three years. "We have worse odds with cancer," Chan says, "and we're aggressively treating [that] with all sorts of complicated chemotherapies."
He notes the odds of surviving cardiac arrest three years after hospital discharge are about the same as for patients with heart failure, on whom medical resources such as heart-assist devices and intensive supportive care are lavished.
Chan's juxtaposition of cardiac arrest with cancer and heart failure is deliberately provocative.
His point is that there's a big disconnect between the gloomy attitude most doctors have about the "futility" of resuscitation attempts for patients with cardiac arrest versus their aggressive go-all-out stance toward even advanced cancers.
"We know that patients with advanced cancer often want to live, even if their expected survival [from treatment] is one or two months," Chan says.
Doctors' "nihilistic" attitude toward cardiac arrest, he says, strongly colors the attitudes of patients and their families, who often opt for "do not resuscitate" orders when they have a reasonable chance of surviving a year or more with acceptable quality of life.
The new calculations of the long-term prospects for survivors of in-hospital cardiac arrest are the first ever from a large national data base – a registry of 7,000 such episodes from 300 hospitals. The study is in this week's New England Journal of Medicine.
Asked if he thinks the new numbers might alter doctors' and patients' thinking about when to opt for a DNR order, Chan says: "I think they ought to."
The implications – at a time when the medical community is trying to minimize futile care and channel resources where they will do the most good – are potentially vast.
But to understand the meaning of the newly calculated survival odds, you need to look at the whole picture – from the cardiac arrest to the chances of being discharged from the hospital to the likelihood of being alive a year or two or three later.
A hospitalized person whose heart stops currently has a 22 percent chance of being successfully resuscitated and surviving to discharge, Chan says. That's substantially better than the 14 percent it was about a decade ago, but the stark fact is that nearly four out of five such patients don't make it.
Among those who do, the new data suggest that 40 percent will die in the year after discharge and 60 percent will survive.
Bottom line: For the person who suffers cardiac arrest in the hospital, the odds of being among the one-year survivors works out to about 12 percent, or one in eight.
"Twelve percent is not great odds," Chan says, "but it's not zero odds."
He says he didn't expect the odds to be as good as they are. Before the study, he thought one-year survival among those who leave the hospital would be around 25 percent, not 60 percent.
He was also surprised that survival was so good even among the oldest patients. "Even if you're 85 and older, you have a 50 percent chance of living to one year" if you make it to hospital discharge, Chan says.
Not everybody has an equal chance, though. African-Americans have lower survival, and the Kansas City researchers are trying to figure out if that's because they don't get as good care, before or after the leave the hospital.
Women do slightly better than men. And neurologic status matters a lot: 73 percent of those with mild or no brain damage are alive a year after discharge, versus 61 percent of those with moderate damage, 42 percent with severe damage and only 10 percent of those who were in coma after their cardiac arrest.
Chan says there's enormous variation from one hospital to another in the proportion of cardiac arrest patients who make it to discharge – only 10 percent for some hospitals, versus 40 percent at others.
That suggests there's a lot of room for overall improvement, if researchers can figure out how the top performers do it and replicate their best practices.
One further note: All the survival numbers above pertain only to patients whose hearts stop while they're in the hospital, where resuscitation attempts are supposed to occur within one minute, according to current guidelines.
Those whose arrest occurs at home or elsewhere in the community fare much worse. Only about four percent of them even make it to the hospital.
Copyright 2021 NPR. To see more, visit https://www.npr.org.


text:
5625.0 - Private New Capital Expenditure, Australia, Actual and Expected Expenditure, Preliminary, Mar 1994
ARCHIVED ISSUE Released at 11:30 AM (CANBERRA TIME) 25/05/1994
Page tools: Print Page Print All | ||
Preliminary estimates derived from a sample survey of business enterprises. Contains estimates of actual and expected new capital expenditure by type of asset (new buildings and structures/other new capital equipment) and by selected ASIC subdivisions. These statistics are expressed in current and constant prices and in original, and seasonally adjusted terms. Document Selection These documents will be presented in a new window. |


text:
Streamlight is a "hands-on" company; we've been one since the company started in 1973, over 50 years ago. We learn by doing, so we understand what our customers need because we're out there doing what they do, using the same lighting tools in the same ways. We go through firefighters' training. We take courses in low-light shooting. We're hunters, fishermen, outdoor and sports enthusiasts. We believe it's our hands-on, real-world experience that leads to new ideas and innovations that set Streamlight apart. Who knows what we'll come up with next?
We make it a point to get out in the field and talk to our customers. We hold focus groups to hear what they like about our products; but we're more interested in what they don't like, what needs to be improved, and what lighting problems have yet to be solved. Customer feedback helps us continually improve existing products and create new and better ones. Since the most extreme hazardous conditions are often in dark places, Streamlight created a complete line of safety-rated lights. For the industrial market, we've developed lighting tools that are safe to use even around explosive gases and in other potentially explosive atmospheres.
Our success is directly related to our ability to satisfy customers. So we take customer service very seriously. Our inside sales department includes specialists in each of the markets we serve. They go through extensive training on all our products, even working on the assembly line and in the factory service center. They know Streamlight products inside/out. They understand the challenges you face and they know how to help you find the best lights and get the most from your purchases. We'll work with you and do whatever it takes to help you.
Streamlight warrants our products to be free of defects, including LED, for a lifetime of use. To read our full warranty, go to Streamlight's Warranty page.
If you have questions or would like to process a warranty claim, go to Streamlight's FAQ section for locations and information about Streamlight's service center near you, including factory information.
Streamlight is an Equal Opportunity Employer of Minorities/Women/Individuals with Disabilities/Protected Veterans.


text:
Architectural projects
1954 - 1992
Series 1
Series documents the professional activities of John Bird. It includes drawings and/or photographs of each project, supplemented in some cases by panels and/or textual documents.
Materials in this series have been arranged in chronological order by project start date.
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Do you see dead people? No you don?t, so stop faking it. Or at the very least, visit your psychotherapist at your local North Saanich, BC psychologist?s office. Sometimes it's hard to tell whether you're psychotic or if the sheets on your bed really are trying to strangle you. If you can?t determine the truth, it?s probably time to talk to your doctor again.
North Saanich, BC Ghostbusting Experts
Is there something strange in your neighborhood? Who you gonna call? Ghostbusters! Or, well, rather, the paranormal and psychic investigators of North Saanich, BC. Our trained paranormal professionals will seek out your ghosts, demons, entities, and all-around paranormal experiences, and ultimately convince you that there?s nothing to fear.
If the home you bought was built in the 1800s and you think you?re seeing fuzzy white floating things all over the place, then it sounds like you might need the help of a local paranormal and psychic investigator ? either that, or your house is just getting moldy. If a demonic voice calls to you from your refrigerator, it's time to pick up the phone, or check that your kids aren?t playing a mean trick on you. You should clue in if the alleged ghost refers to you as ?mommy.?
North Saanich, BC paranormal and psychic investigators help individuals, families, and business proprietors who feel or whose customers feel that they are being visited by supernatural beings. If nothing else, we can convince your wacky customers to stay away from your business and stop annoying everyone else inside. Some paranormal and psychic investigators specialize in demonology, angelology, or UFOs, and some cover a broader spectrum, investigating them all. Those UFO sightings really are scary. Who knows who could be on that civilian aircraft!
A main purpose of spectral hunting is to document ghostly activity, as well as (hopefully) provide solutions activity proof of paranormal activity ? spoof, excuse me. Paranormal investigators take an unbiased approach to the investigation, ensuring all reasonable explanations are ruled out before determining that you do, in fact, need to see a doctor.
North Saanich, BC paranormal and psychic investigators typically come to the investigation site well-equipped with digital cameras, full surveillance cameras, audio equipment, infrared cameras, digital and analog voice recorders, night vision cameras and goggles, motion detectors, EMFs (electro-magnetic field detectors), thermometers, and more, just so you think they?re legit. Our expert North Saanich, BC paranormal investigators are trained to use a variety of equipment in order to help the investigator detect, seek out, document, and debunk paranormal, erm, suspicions. Depending on the ghost hunters you select, some also utilize the help of a medium or spiritual expert, or use various other activities to conjure spirits including the use of seances, Ouija boards, divining rods, crystals, and more. We even bring wooden stakes with us, free of extra charge, so you can stab all those vampires that throw themselves at you mercilessly.
Some findings of a paranormal investigation include EVPs or electronic voice phenomenon, and images capturing orbs. Paranormal and psychic investigators may also have ?personal? experiences occur at the investigation site such as temperature changes, feelings of nausea, being touched or pushed. North Saanich, BC paranormal and psychic investigators will provide you with documentation, as well as copies of photos, video, and voice recordings. Our skilled investigators will be able to tell you if you have a haunting, an entity or demon, or a residual haunting, or just a no longer insignificant mental curiosity. Paranormal investigators help provide peace of mind about the situation, ensuring you that no harm can come about from most types of haunting. If your situation is really serious, we?ll stop by and assure you that there?s nothing to worry about; that it?s all in your head.
North Saanich, BC Ghost Detectives
Tired of that pesky ghost possessing your home? Be a good landlord and kick them out at once! Contact the premier experts at paranormal and psychic investigators of North Saanich, BC, who will help you negotiate final settlements to ensure that the ?ghosts? compensate you fully for your troubles and ?mental anguish?. Paranormal is a term used to explain the experiences that lie outside the range of normal experience or empirical explanation. But fortunately for you, nothing occurs outside of the jurisdiction of empirical explanation. Are you curious about ghosts? Are you seeing ghosts? Are you bored with life and just want to pee your pants? Whatever paranormal, strange experience you are having, our Ghost Detectives might be a good option for you. First, let me give you some advice. Advice piece number one: ghosts do not exist in the real world, and you do. Classic logic therefore leads us to the conclusion that you have nothing to worry about. Two: there are doctors out there who specialize in helping people who experience very lucid hallucinations, and who are more than willing to help you with your difficulties.
Here's what we'll do. We'll come into your home, turn down the temperature and the lights and get out our Ghost Detective equipment, such as that wonderful bad-dude, the P-SB7 ITC research device. We have the most sensitive voice recorders that will pick up sounds that are inaudible to the human ear. We have simultaneous EMF and temperature readouts with red illuminated displays, electromagnetic readers and devices that convert magnetic signals into audible sounds. Call our North Saanich, BC paranormal and psychic investigators today. We'll make sure you don?t foolishly scare yourself to death.
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