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Difference between revisions of "Tafelberg"
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Takes some golden bulges and a wild roof just right of 'Ice Tea'. Scramble up one level and find a beach/cave with a diving board (cairn) that offers footing to an undercut start. (Level with the first stance of Ice Tea)
Takes some golden bulges and a wild roof just right of 'Ice Tea'. Scramble up one level and find a beach/cave with a diving board (cairn) that offers footing to an undercut start. (Level with the first stance of Ice Tea)
119Step off the diving board onto the wall, up to the roof, traverse right to the thinnest part of the roof, and then continue up to the following ledge. Stance 3m left
223An undercut start off of two big horns (big pull) Continue slightly right past some rails to the golden bulges, and hand-jam up the right-most crack. Continue up finger cracks on the right to find a long crimp, and use either an undercling above and/or a finger pocket on the left to exit the crux. Continue up for another 10m.
3 21Aim for the obvious 3m roof with an apparently off-width break. Jam inside the crack, stretch for jugs on the left lip, and make a mind-bending cutloose to finish on easy territory. Stance 5 – 10m above the lip.
418Straight, and follow the most appealing line to the top.
=== Make Tea Not War (20) *** ===
=== Make Tea Not War (20) *** ===
Revision as of 10:02, 14 November 2011
- 1 Logistics
- 2 Ethics
- 3 New Routes
- 3.1 Main Wall
- 3.2 Black Ice Area
The best information is in the Tafelberg & Spout guide book by Tony Lourens, available from most climbing shops.
Just about the best trad climbing around!
Tafelberg is a pure trad area. No bolting is allowed at all.
There is an existing bolt and chain at the top of the ascent/descent gulley and (to my knowledge) only one old route (Oscillation) that has an ancient, hand drilled, small bolt. This in no way means that any more bolts may be placed. There are also a few old pitons scattered around but even this is seldom necessary. Modern removable gear allows virtually all climbable parts of Tafelberg to be adequately protected.
New Routes
Main Wall
Amarula (23) ****
Takes some golden bulges and a wild roof just right of 'Ice Tea'. Scramble up one level and find a beach/cave with a diving board (cairn) that offers footing to an undercut start. (Level with the first stance of Ice Tea)
- Pitch 1. 25m 19 Step off the diving board onto the wall, up to the roof, traverse right to the thinnest part of the roof, and then continue up to the following ledge. Stance 3m left
- Pitch 2. 30m 23 An undercut start off of two big horns (big pull) Continue slightly right past some rails to the golden bulges, and hand-jam up the right-most crack. Continue up finger cracks on the right to find a long crimp, and use either an undercling above and/or a finger pocket on the left to exit the crux. Continue up for another 10m.
- Pitch 3 25m 21 Aim for the obvious 3m roof with an apparently off-width break. Jam inside the crack, stretch for jugs on the left lip, and make a mind-bending cutloose to finish on easy territory. Stance 5 – 10m above the lip.
- Pitch 4. 50m 18 Straight, and follow the most appealing line to the top.
Make Tea Not War (20) ***
Main Wall, Tafelberg
A line between Mothers and Cosy Corner. The rock quality for the first 10m is not great, but then improves greatly. The second and third pitches are excellent.
- Pitch 1. 25 m (17) Start 1m left of Cosy Corner and head straight up and past a vertical crack in the steep section about 20m up. Tend slightly left, passing one ledge, to a stance on the second ledge in a wide corner.
- Pitch 2. 45 m (20) Climb the largest layback crack in the wide corner to some large horizontal breaks, Move slightly right and up to below a steep crack and pocketed face on good quality brown rock. Pull through the bulge and straight up the face for about 15m to a rail below a slight overhang. Swing round 2m to the right and then straight up featured groove/face to a flat platform just below the large rocky ledge. Belay here, and then scramble up right to below the right hand wall of the huge corner.
- Pitch 3. 15 m (17) The Power Hog pitch. Start up a vague layback and make a rising traverse across the compact white face (with wide vertical cracks) and under a projecting nose to a neat stance capped by a small roof on the left.
- Pitch 4. 30 m (18) Pass the right side of the small roof, and up a few meters to a finger rail, below a very narrow overhang. Traverse left about 2m and then straight up to the top.
FA: Richard Halsey, Anthony Hall and Jonathan Hajos (April 2011)
Danger Shrew (24) ****
Main Wall, Tafelberg
Finds a break through the big roofs above the walk-in ledge between Maidens Prayer and Bat. About 20m right of the start of Lost Chord is a set of rails heading up and right above the roof. This is the first pitch.
- Pitch 1. 15 m (24) Start where you can easily reach the first rail. Move right towards a small prong underneath the first roof. Use this to reach through to a good, sloping hold around the lip. Place a small wire on the right and then, with the aid of a couple of diagonal edges slightly higher up, pull through to the next rail. Hard and committing. Traverse right and up until able to get onto a small ledge. Stance on the right end of the ledge by a small, orange open book capped by a roof.
- Pitch 2. 55 m (21) Head rightwards up the book/arete then a bit left to a grey chimney. Above the chimney head up and slightly right again to a rail which is followed for a few metres right until one can pull up into a wide recess. Climb the recess and pull through the roof above using a layback crack. This move can be bypassed more easily 1m to the left. Head easily straight up to the large ledge below the massive open book.
- Pitch 3. 25 m (19) In the corner of the open book, behind a massive block, is the easy layback crack of Maiden Voyage. Start up this crack then move diagonally left into the parallel crack. Up this then exit left below some blocks. Stance below the large, prominent, white open book capped by a triangular roof.
- Pitch 4. 30 m (21) Pull up into the crack in the corner of the open book then move 3m right into a crack system that passes the roof on the right. Head up this system past the roof then easily straight up to the top. A superb pitch.
FA: Douw Steyn and Richard Halsey (March 2011)
Dithering Heights (25) *****
Main Wall, Tafelberg
Starts about 10m right of Bat off a rectangular black block below a leftward pointing prong and short corner/crack. The route heads straight up through a large, dark red corner to the right hand side of the large roof then does an airy, Oceans Of Air like traverse left under the roof to escape straight up the blunt corner system to the top.
- Pitch 1. 25 m (21) From the block use the prong to pull into the corner. Climb up and slightly right up a shallow recess then back left onto some blocks and through an overhang onto a large ledge.
- Pitch 2. 15 m (25) The dithering pitch. Climb a layback flake into a dark red/brown corner below a roof. Rail 4m right to below a small prong. Hard moves up to a rail and up the groove to the big ledge below the huge roof. Stance on the left.
- Pitch 3. 20 m (18) Rail left to a semi-hanging stance on the black rock past the huge roof.
- Pitch 4. 50 m (18) Straight up to a large ledge. Up a shallow, yellow recess just to the left for another 15m to the huge ledge.
- Pitch 5. 35 m (21) Climb the short, wide, overhanging crack at the left end of the ledge. Up and left past the blocky roof and up to the top.
FA: Douw Steyn and Richard Halsey (Jan 2011)
The Swan (24) *****
Main Wall, Tafelberg
This superb route follows a line just left of The Crow. The last pitch is just right of The Crow's final pitch. Start 20m left of The Crow's corner. A natural stone chair is found at the base of the route.
- Pitch 1. 30 m (23) Pull onto the undercut face off a block. Up right to a thin crack. Tricky layback to roof. Undercling left to easier layback crack up to a ledge with blocks. Takeoff from block with hard pulls up to a layback feature. Up left to ledge (Bat's first stance is just to the left).
Gear: Work in a couple of decent wires at the layback feature before the last move.
- Pitch 2. 20 m (24) From the right of the ledge move up right to small ledge with a block. Hard pull to rail. Rail right for 2m. Hard pull up and right. Easier climbing straight up to just left of a large, pointed block sticking out from a big ledge. (Bat P2 comes up on the left and crosses to the right of the ledge). Walk to left end of ledge.
Gear: Tiny Friend or Alien in vertical slot at waist level for first hard pull.
- Pitch 3. 30 m (23) Up to roof. Rail left onto block/flake. Keep traversing left till possible to pull up to next rail via hollow flake. Undercling/jam left to corner. Up to huge roof. Rail back right until able to pull through roof on huge jugs. Up 5m to ledge.
- Pitch 4. 25 m (20) Climb the crack with a grass tuft directly above the ledge. Continue straight up through an overhang to the massive ledge.
- Pitch 5. 30 m (21) 3m right of The Crow's final pitch is another corner/crack starting above a low overhang. Take off from a large block and climb the crack to a small overhang. Rail right 1m then go up and left towards a small layback corner. Straight up to the top finishing up the middle of a superb whitish shield to a 1 foot square parapet.
FA: Adam Roff, Douw Steyn, Gosia Lipinska (Pitches 1 & 2) (2010)
Stargate (20) ****
Main Wall, Tafelberg
Fills in the gap between Bat and Crouching Tiger which is protected by the impenetrable, huge roof at the bottom. Use a space portal to teleport to the start of the route in the middle of the black face above the roof. Alternatively, climb part of any route on the side of the roof and then traverse in to the middle of the black face. The traverse is at the level of the second stance of Crouching Tiger or pitch four of Gotham City. Make a hanging stance just above a large, black flake about 10m left of Tiger's third pitch.
- Pitch 1. 40 m (18) From the belay climb almost straight up tending just slightly leftwards towards a 1m wide, featured roof. Pull through the roof on underclings and continue straight up to the huge ledge.
- Pitch 2. 30 m (20) Between Tiger's and the Frontal's final pitches is an overhanging corner with some vertical cracks. Starting off some large blocks, climb the cracks and up on the right. Up to the top with a final, tricky move past a left pointing flake.
FA: Richard Halsey and Douw Steyn (Jan 2011)
Crouching Tiger Hidden Giraffe (24) *****
Main Wall, Tafelberg
Takes the big corner system dodged by Grappler, then up the hanging nose above. Has a spicy nip in the last pitch. Need a #4 Camalot for pitch 2. Start midway between Gotham City and Grappler at pockety rock below a layback edge at 5m.
- Pitch 1. 15 m (21) Up the pockety rock to the layback. Up this then diagonally right to a flake. Up past rails and right to finish.
- Pitch 2. 30 m (23) Start off a block just right of the first pitch. Climb up onto a narrow ledge, move right and up into a wide rail below the roof (#4 cam). Hard move up into the open book. Climb the corner crack to the roof with the giraffe. Turn the roof on the right and reach out left above the roof. Swing left and up onto a small ledge trying not to pull on the big, loose block. Up to a stance on another small ledge level with Grappler's "galloping hand traverse".
Gear: #4 Camalot to protect the hard move into the open book.
- Pitch 3. 20 m (24) Traverse 3m right to below the next big open book (at the start of the "galloping hand traverse") then do a hard, traddy pull into the corner crack above (grade 23 if you're tall). Climb up to the big roof. Undercling right to the corner and up to ledge.
- Pitch 4. 40 m (21) Climb the nose directly above where you came up. Reach up left for a rail just above the roof. Rail left until able to stand up. Step left then onto the nose. Romp to the massive ledge below the last pitch of Tafelberg Frontal. Walk left about 20m and scramble up onto a big, rectangular block under a low overhang. This is just left of a big, jumbly, blocky corner system. If you are in the right place there will be a Fred Flinstone briefcase just left of the block.
- Pitch 5. 30 m (23) Reach far left from the block and place gear (Camalot #2 in the handrail under the overhang). Traverse left under the overhang then do a hard move up to laybacks. Reach up left to a crack. Straight up to the summit past a thin move near the top.
FA: Adam Roff, Francie Buhrmann, Gosia Lipinska (2008)
FFA: Gosia Lipinska, Douw Steyn, Willem le Roux (2009)
Vuvuzela (23) *****
Main Wall, Tafelberg
Follows a direct line just right of Digeridoo on the main wall. Prominent features are the purple nose on pitch 3 and the massive corner system on pitch 4 right of the last pitch of Central Direct. Start by doing any two pitches to get to the belay at the end of pitch 2 of Tafelberg Frontal
- Pitch 1. 15 m (16) Climb straight up to the left facing corner to a ledge. Belay on a large block on the right.
- Pitch 2. 25 m (20) Climb into the awkward, undercut feature above the block and reach left to a finger crack. Go up past an overhang on the right, then do some thin moves and exit left. Stance on the left under the roof crack (as for Digeridoo).
- Pitch 3. 30 m (19) Traverse 3m left, up 3m, then back right onto the purplish nose. Climb the steep break just left of the nose. Exit right and climb straight up easy rock to belay next to a block. (If you step right around the nose and go straight up the grade drops.)
- Pitch 4. 30 m (23) Step off the block into the fierce, thin crack up to the small roof. Reach desperately through then move diagonally up left into the massive, left-facing corner system. Climb this to the huge roof and stance on the right.
- Pitch 5. 10 m (22) Climb the short, sharp layback crack just right of the stance.
FA: Adam Roff and Francie Buhrmann (2008) FFA of Pitch 5: Douw Steyn and Ant Hall (2009)
Black Ice Area
Spice Dice (22) *****
Black Ice Area, Tafelberg
A direct line up the face just to the right of Pure Mania. A single, superb pitch up the whole face.
- Pitch 1. 50 m (22) Start as for Pure Mania, but traverse right under the big hole until able to pull up and then through the roofs just right of Pure Mania's crux. Move 2m left then straight up to the top, taking a crack and featured slab after the ledge high up. Long slings and a large cam are useful for the start.
FA: Richard Halsey and Douw Steyn (Jan 2011)


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Moo Carve Artist Carving Block
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Microsoft has donated the RIA Services codebase to help launch a new Outercurve Foundation open source project which will be called "Open RIA Services".
RIA Services is a framework for building line-of-business and other n-tier applications (i.e., those distributed to exist among three or more separate computers), delivering client/server interactions for rich desktop-like functionality.
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[Illinois] CMMB IGERT & M-CNTC Annual Symposium: The Nanodisc Platform; Exploring the Mechanism of Androgen Biosynthesis
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Posted Fri October 12th, 2012 - 02:22 AM PDT
Kourtney Kardashian flashed onlookers when she was twirled around by Khloe, blowing up her short skirt and showing off her derriere in the process while at her hotel in Miami.
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While reading the June 16 Eagle article about Butler County's impact fee money, I couldn't help but notice there was not one mention of actual natural gas drilling impacts (other than economic); you know, the impacts for which this fee was named and on which (at least originally) this money was meant to be spent (as opposed to things like Sunnyview).
The impact fee was established by Act 13 to repair damage done to communities by fracking. Section 2314(g) states "a county or municipality . . . shall use the funds received only for the following purposes associated with natural gas production from unconventional gas wells within the county or municipality."
Butler County state Rep. Brian Ellis, prime sponsor of Act 13, has said, "They are only allowed to use the money for impacts that are felt in the region," and "They can't use it for anything else. We're not giving them an additional revenue that they could spend willy-nilly." Nonetheless, local officials, including the Butler County commissioners, want to use the funds to fill holes in their operating budgets. This is not just irresponsible; it may very well be illegal.
But maybe the reality is that there are no negative impacts from unconventional natural gas drilling, after all. How silly of me (and General Electric, the Center for Sustainable Shale Development, Ellis, etc.) to have thought otherwise. But if that is the case, then why does our state government persist in calling the ridiculously low (compared with other states) tax rate it charges drillers for the privilege of drilling in Pennsylvania an impact fee?
Either there are impacts that this money needs to be spent on or there aren't. Either it's a tax (and a poor one at that) or it isn't. Please, make up your minds. And if the Butler County commissioners' plans for the impact fee money are in fact illegal, will someone from the state (Rep. Ellis?) please step in and alert them to the error of their ways?


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The newly created Career Closet, sponsored by The Home Depot Home Services Interiors, will open in the Spring 2018 with a resource of new/ gently used casual and business professional attire, free of charge, to all currently enrolled Baylor University students.
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Watch These Rather Unusual Pets Some People Have — Daily Distraction
[onescreen item="5114611"]
We'd probably think twice before letting our newborn roll around on the floor with a giant snake, or let our adorable pooches wrassle with an enormous tiger. But hey, that's just us.
Dogs, hamsters, goldfish, maybe a parrot—these are probably the kinds of pets you think of adding to your household. Some folks, we guess, are just a bit more adventurous.
The Daily Distraction is your Internet break from reality. Whether you're eating lunch at your desk or avoiding high school exes on Facebook, you might just laugh, say "aaahhh" or not believe what you just watched.