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Wednesday, May 15, 2019
Carroll House will be celebrating National Nursing Home Week May 13th - May 17th, 2019. Our theme this year is "Live Soulfully" and we want to invite all of you to join us for some of our scheduled activities. Take a look...
Monday, May 13th
City of Carrollton Mayor, Scott Bartlett, read the proclamation to kick off National Nursing Home Week at Carroll House. Then, fresh fruit was served as a morning treat to all of our residents. Everyone here at Carroll House appreciate Mayor Bartlett for taking time from his busy schedule to be with us!
Tuesday, May 14th
We planned a Potluck Cook-Off for Tuesday. Employees brought in dishes that are known for being brought to potluck dinners and we had two local pastors judge all of the delicious dishes. BBQ Meatballs made by Tammy Wellman, Business Office Manager won first place; Green Bean Bundles by Amber Batye, Administrator took home second place and Snickers Apple Fluff by Alisha Moser, MDS Coordinator won third place! There were so many superb dishes and it was a hard decision but the residents, staff and pastors loved judging!
Wednesday, May 15th
8:15am – Tai Chi
10:00am – Spelling Bee
2:00pm – Let's Go Fishing
7:00pm – Bible Study
Thursday, May 16th
10:00am – "Carroll House Has Got Talent"
2:00pm – Music, Devotional & Strawberry Shortcake
6:30pm – Shapes Performance Company
Friday, May 17th
10:00am – Resident Relaxation Retreat
12:00pm – BBQ Luncheon
2:00pm – Fun, Fantastic, Friday Festivities
Monday, May 13, 2019
Carroll House enjoyed a Mother's Day celebration on Friday, May 10th. We served finger sandwiches, chips, punch and homemade chocolate chip cookies. Ms. Suzanne Stark sang and played piano for our residents while they enjoyed their refreshments. She gave a beautiful performance and we appreciate her spending the afternoon at our home!


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Abigail Mac & Gina Valentina & Lena Paul - Xanders World Tour - Ep 4 [BRAZZERS]
Eingeführt von
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- 2019-03-09 06:46:47
ZZ Behind The Cock catches up with Xander at his California mansion to see just how a living legend spends his day. Turns out it's surrounded by beautiful a bunch of beautiful women. Xander gives us exclusive access to his lavish lifestyle. Abigail, Gina, and Lena are trying to convince Xander to give one final farewell fuck. He's ready to make this curtain call one to remember - with one final legendary orgy!
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When children begin to study the concept of solarsystems, realize the fact that all planets "swirl" around the Sun, for them this process can be difficult and overwhelming. However, the child can better understand these principles, if you make a visual aid. Of course, it will be better and more pleasant if the parents with their son or daughter make their own models of the solar system. Although many moms and dads do not consider it necessary and buy ready mock-ups.
The planet Earth makes one revolution every yeararound the center of the solar system - the Sun. All planets revolve around the "center" of the universe for a certain amount of time. For example, Mercury "bypasses" the Sun for 88 terrestrial days, and Uranus - for 84 terrestrial years. In total, there are 8 planets in our system: Mercury, followed by Venus, then Earth, followed by Mars, followed by Jupiter, then Saturn, followed by Uranus, then Neptune. Each of them, together with meteors, satellites, comets, dust or gas formations is an integral part of the solar system. The planets closest to the Sun are very hard because of the constant high temperature. As you move away from the star, the temperature gradually decreases.
The smallest planet isMercury. This object of the galaxy is located closest to the Sun. Because of this, the atmosphere is completely burned out. And on the bright side, the temperature reaches + 430 °, and on the dark side - -170 °.
Of particular interest is Saturn with its rings. This planet has a three-layered atmosphere. The rings of Saturn consist of rocks and ice. On the surface of the planet, the temperature reaches -150 °.
To understand the principle of "working" of our "microgalaxy", one can make models of the solar system one of the ways. So you can decorate the interior and make an excellent visual aid.
To create a solar system you will need:
Step 1. In the center of the cardboard circle, two perpendicular lines must be drawn. The intersection of these diameters will serve as a fixation point for the Sun.
Step 2. Using the compass, the parent or the kid should draw 8 circles of different diameters, which will serve as orbits. It should be taken into account that 4 orbits should be closer to the Sun. Then leave a gap for the asteroids. Then follow the "home" for the rest of the planets. After the outline of the orbits, you need to make a hole in the cardboard with scissors. One of the holes should be in the center. The rest are in chaotic order, one hole in each orbit.
Step 3. From color paper of the appropriate color, you need to cut out the planets and the Sun. On each cut circle you can write the names of the planets.
Step 4. With the help of Scotch tape, you need to attach the line to the objects. The free end of the line is adhered to the outside of a large cardboard circle by duct tape. The planets are in such a sequence, starting from the closest to the Sun: the first is Mercury, the second is Venus, the third is Earth, the fourth is Mars, the fifth is Jupiter, the sixth is Saturn, the seventh is Uranus, the eighth is Neptune.
Step 5. The length of the line can be adjusted to your liking. After fixing the planets, you need to hang a model of the solar system, made with your own hands, with the help of connected three pieces of the line of the same length with one longer segment with the ring. The model is ready.
To create a 3d model of the solar system, you need to prepare the following materials:
Step 1. Cut the strips of adhesive tape, sign them with the name of each of the planets and the Sun.
Step 2. Prepare 9 bamboo skewers of different lengths:
Step 3. To paint the prepared foam balls with paints in accordance with the color of the planet: the Sun (the largest ball) - yellow, the Earth - green and blue, Mars - red, etc .. Wait until the paint is completely dry.
Step 4. Stick the signed pieces of adhesive tape on the dried balls.
Step 5. Attach a 2.5 inch skewer to the Sun, and at the other end attach a Mercury. Then, in the same way, the other planets are fixed in the correct order.
Step 6. You can tie up the created system by attaching a pin and a fishing line to the model of the Solar System.
That's it. You can create different models of the solar system from numerous materials. The main thing is to give free rein to fantasy and study literature.
Another similar model, made of papier-mâché.
A few examples of self-made models of the solar system are shown in the photographs below.
These images show that it is not necessary to be a rocket scientist to make a visual, convenient and simply beautiful reconstruction of the solar system.


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In the past few months the 400W Double Ended (DE) lamps have generated significant interest among the reef hobbyists. These lamps were tested in a previous article [1], this article presents test results on the fixtures/reflectors available for these lamps. The reflectors were tested using the same setup and methodology as used for the tests on other reflectors, described in [2,3]. The data is also presented in an identical manner with plots for light dispersion for each reflector at distances of 6", 9" and 12" from the center of the lamp. This article continues in a similar vein and presents the data and analysis of the 400W DE reflectors manufactured by HappyReefing.com and Icecap.
|400W PFO HQI Ballast
|HappyReefing 400W DE 10000K
|400W PFO HQI Ballast
|HappyReefing 400W DE 10000K
To enable a direct comparison, the Icecap fixture was modified to accept the HappyReefing.com's 400W DE 10000K lamp and to run on the PFO HQI ballast. Thus both reflectors are tested with the same lamp and ballast, allowing for a direct comparison.
The arrival of the 400W DE lamps posses the question - Are the 400W DE lamps much better than their single ended counter parts. ? As seen in the earlier article, the 400 DE lamp and ballast with the highest PAR output (400W DE 10000K from Happyreefing.com - 229 PPFD) is comparable in output to the single ended lamp and ballast with the highest PAR output (400W XM 10000K on a Taiwan HQI ballast - 224 PPFD). The next question is - Do the reflector systems for the 400W DE make the lamp/ballast/reflector system for the DE lamps produce more light than the SE versions.
To address this question, a comparison is made with the 400W Diamond Light Lumen Arc III reflector data (tested previously in [2,3]).
The data for the Lumen Arc III reflector running a Ushio 400W 10000K lamp on a magnetic (M59) ballast was presented in [2]. Since this was tested using a completely different lamp and ballast, an adequate comparison can only be made by using a SE lamp and ballast with similar light output. In this case this would be the XM400W 10000K running on the Taiwan HQI ballast. The PPFD for the Ushio 400W with magnetic ballast at 18" from lamp was 123 PPFD and that of the XM 400W 10000K with the Taiwan HQI ballast was 224 PPFD. So, if the XM lamp and Taiwan HQI ballast was used in the Lumen Arc III reflector, the raw data for the Lumen Arc III should be scaled up by a factor of (224/123 = 1.82). Given that the lamp geometry is the same for the Ushio and the XM it is reasonable to assume that the reflector output will scale with lamp intensity. The data for the scaled Lumen Arc III reflector is also presented for comparison.
The data plots for each reflector at the distances 6", 9", and 12" are plotted as a surface graph, top view graph, and a % distribution graph to illustrate the intensity and spread at different points on the measuring grid. Table 2 below shows the list of figures associated with each reflector.
|Figs. 1-3
|Figs. 4-6
|Lumen Arc III (scaled)
|Figs. 7-9
One of the measures of a reflector performance could be its ability to direct light into the aquarium. A reflector's total incident light upon a surface of a given area is representative of the performance of a reflector. It is computed by adding up all the measurements taken at the discrete points within the region. It demonstrates how much light the reflector is able to focus downward when compared to other reflectors with similar operating conditions (same ballast and lamp). While it can be argued that adding all the PPFD values is technically not a valid measure as per the definition of PPFD (since PPFD is defined as microEinstiens/m2/sec), it can be used to provide a metric for reflector performance. Further summing over the data points on a given area can easily be used to compute the average, if so desired. Since the area under consideration is the same for all reflectors, we can just as well use the sum of the PPFD values distributed over this area (169 data points) instead of an average as a performance metric.
Table 3 presents this data for the reflectors in this article.
|3x3 Area
|2x2 Area
|1x1 Area
|Maximum PPFD
|Lumen Arc III - scaled
In addition to knowing how much light is incident on a given area, we could also look at how much loss of light occurs on a given area when moving the lamp and reflector higher. Table 4, presents the % of light lost on a specified area as one moves the lamp/reflector from 6" to 12" above the surface. A higher % loss would indicate that the reflector is creating a larger spread.
|3x3 Area
|2x2 Area
|1x1 Area
|Lumen Arc III - Scaled
This article is the 4th in this series and presents the data and a brief analysis of the 400W DE reflector systems available in the hobby and comparison with the 400W Lumen Arc III reflector. The data provided shows that the 3 different reflector systems have a different geometric distribution of light, with the HappyReefing.com reflector having a more rounded light distribution, compared to the Icecap reflector which has a more oval distribution. The Lumen Arc III has a square distribution. From the intensity plots it is also quite clear that the Icecap reflector does provide higher amounts of light leaving the reflector compared to the Happyreefing.com reflector. The peaks attained by the Icecap reflector are much higher than the other reflectors, and in all case these reflectors produced peak values that far exceed mid day PAR values in the tropics (~2000), albeit on a small area . This should be taken into account when placing the reflectors over the tank. To mitigate the effect of the high intensity at the center, it might be advisable to run these reflector at least 12 inches above the water surface. Further, it can also be seen from the data that the DE systems are comparable performance to SE systems.
In conclusion, the 400DE systems are an attractive option for the reef aquarist, however the data does not support the view that the 400W DE systems significantly outperform the SE systems available.
We would like to thank several people whose help made this study possible. They were kind enough to provide us with lamps, reflectors and ballasts for testing: Patrick at PFO Lighting, Andy at Icecap and Nguyen at HappyReefing.com.
Despite the fact that I have written about, in my editorials, various aspects of my reef keeping experiences over the years, aquarists have asked me to update my adventures in our hobby - see email below. So, I decided to do the Featured Aquarium for the next two issues of the Advanced Aquarist. In this issue I'll focus on the animals I now have in my 10-foot reef tank, which with the sump and refugium holds about 700-gallons of artificially made seawater. In the next issue I'll focus on the equipment, water motion, feeding, water changes, lighting, etc.
There are many magnificent reef tanks kept by hobbyists and professionals today, many of which are far more beautiful than mine. If I have any distinction, it is in the length of time that some of my animals have been with me. Although I had been keeping reef fish in fish only tanks since the late nineteen sixties, I set up my first "modern" reef tank in 1983. I say modern because in the early seventies I had a 125-gallon invertebrate tank where I had modest success with nonphotsynthetic invertebrates. In those days I didn't even know what a photosynthetic invertebrate was. Keeping hermatypic corals was thought impossible then - how the times have changed. Just yesterday I trimmed out of my Acropora colonies a bucketful of branches to be given to the LFS. As most of you know, when the conditions are right Acropora grows like a weed.
Hi Terry,
Another addict here...
Have a 200g reef which I intend to enter in the plethora of "Tank of the Month" sweepstakes across the web... your publication first... after I retire from the military and have time to submit a winner! (still a few years out...)
Anyway... I am sort of a contemporary (30 years in the hobby) and have followed most of your published work thru out the years... was wondering if you have a list of your current collection of fish published anywhere? From what I can recall, I suspect you have a 300g display tank (?) w/ other secondary fuges, etc. integrated into the system.
I am a very careful collector and go to great lengths to research every specimen before the decision is made to add one or a pair to my tanks. And, like you I have an affinity for Tangs.
So, was wondering if you could share how many and what fish you have in your system? I take your system to be one of the reference standards out there. It is a sample of what can be done with the right study, husbandry, dedication, etc. etc. you know what I mean. I have many pictures that you have published so I am already aware of many in your almost "one of a kind" collection... just wanted to see what other specimens you have been able to integrate into the whole.
If you are otherwise too busy, or have reservations about this, I understand, but you know what they say... "It does not hurt to ask".
Thank-you for all your contributions to our favorite pastime!
Joe Desouza
It seems logical to start with my oldest animals and move forward in time from there.
My first reef was a 90-gallon tank (set up in 1983), illuminated by quartz security lights, into which I added a pair of tomato clowns. One cantankerous Amphiprion frenatus survives to this day, making it 21 plus years in captivity. During most of its years it has made my Euphyllia ancora its home.
My Euphyllia ancora has been with me for about 20-years, during which time it has grown from a 3-inch fragment to an animal that has a diameter of about 2-feet, in spite of the fact that I have broken off sections for trade.
In 1986 I set up my second reef, a 150-gallon tank. During that year I added several surgeonfish that survive to this day: Zebrasoma flavescens and Zebrasoma desjardinii. They have been my guests for 18 plus years.
Sometime in the late 1980s Joe Yaiullo, who had set up a 200-gallon reef tank in the basement of the New York Public Aquarium gave me a 4 polyp colony of Blasstomussa merleti. I still have it today. As an interesting side note the curators at the New York Public Aquarium insisted that what Joe was doing in the basement tank was impossible, that he was sneaking in new animals every day to make his man made reef look good. How times have changed; now most public aquaria have reef displays.
Sometime in the early 1990s I set up my third reef, a 220-gallon tank. This was to be the last reef tank I set up in Brooklyn, NY. The last major innovation was to have all three tanks drain into a common sump in the basement. At the end of 1998 I moved to Cape Cod, where I set up the current 10-foot tank, to which I transferred all the animals. In the 220, I raised a juvenile Pomacanthus navarchus and Lienardella fasciata to maturity. Both have been with me for better than 10-years. Also around this time I added a Acanthurus leucosternon, and a Acanthurus Achilles, one in the 220 and the other in the 150. When I moved and they found themselves in the same 10-foot reef tank they divided the tank up. The Achilles on the left and the leucosternon on the right. About a year ago the Achilles jumped out, and about a month ago I got a new Achilles. I made sure to get an Achilles twice the size of the leucosternon, which was established. It's only in the last few days that the Achilles is able to hold its ground with the smaller fish. I have to confess that Achilles are my favorite fish, but can be a problem to feed, especially large specimens. However, they usually can be started feeding with sheets of nori tied to a rock or the like. I have also found that they will accept OSI marineflakes, and not other flake food. I suspect it's because OSI has a very strong smell. Unless you have a special reason for getting a mature fish get a juvenile, like the one I had for 10-years. In general, juveniles are more adaptable, but need to be fed more often.
I collected this Muricea sp with Julian Sprung and Peter Wilkens around 1994 while diving in the Bahamas. I'm not sure of its identification, but it's in the Plexauridae family. It was also around this time that Alf Nilsen came to the US and at a LFS insisted that I buy a nondescript brown fragment. He was right; it grew into this wonderfully emerald green encrusting Echinophyllia sp. And around this time I added to my 220 a small Leptoseris sp fragment. As you can see it has grown into beautiful plating coral. It is content to be near the bottom of the tank, where it receives relatively low light.
I don't remember when I got a small fragment of green Stylophora sp - it was some time in the mid 1990s. It grew quickly, but really took off when given more room in my 10-foot tank. It now measures 30-inches across. The same is true for the Plerogyra sinuosa pictured here with a Balistoides conspicillum and Pomacanthus maculosus. The clown trigger has tripled in size since I get at a MACNA over a year ago, and the maculosus was given to me to save it by a LFS. It was in terrible shape, but several months in my refugium where it had plenty to eat brought it around, allowing me to transfer it to the display tank.
The tank is filled with Acroporas that were given to me as fragments over the years and grew into colonies. Here are pictures of some of them. The green Acropora fragment came from Greg Schiemer's beautiful reef tank.
The bottom of the tank is covered with mushrooms, button polyps, Fungia sp (babies of a mother colony that died), and Pavona sp.
Without a wide angle lens I found it difficult to photograph the whole tank, so here it is in sections. There are more animals not shown here, and next issue I'll include those.
There are many interesting and beautiful pygmy angelfishes that lurk in deep fore reef habitats. Most of us aquarists have lusted over the striking peppermint or Boyle's angelfish ( Paracentropyge boylei ) - the pomacanthid that mimics a barber pole! And how about the amazing deep-reef pygmy angelfish ( Centropyge narcosis ), a fish that when threatened performs a headstand. While these two species are as expensive as a new economy car and are rarely available, there are some deep water pygmy angelfishes that are affordable and that do show-up with some degree of regularity.
One of these species is Colin' angelfish ( Centropyge colini ). I first encountered this wonderful fish at a fish collectors warehouse in Fiji in the mid-80's. Up until then, I didn't know that anyone was collecting it. Since that time, it has been showing up in the aquarium trade with some degree of regularity. I have had the good fortune to keep a few of these fish in my home aquarium and would like to share some of my observations, as well as some natural history notes that may help the C. colini fan in his aquarium keeping efforts.
Colin's angelfish is known from Cocos-Keeling Island in the Indian Ocean, Papua New Guinea, Palau, Guam and Fiji in the Western Pacific. It is a medium- sized pygmy, attaining a maximum length of 3.5 inches. It is a secretive fish that is found in deep fore reef habitats, like steep slopes or drop-offs. This angel occurs at depths from 55 to 250 feet. However, in most areas it is not common at depths of less than 120 feet. Colin's angel usually inhabits caves and big cracks in the reef. It is also seen swimming upside down under large overhangs among orange cup ( Tubastraea spp.) and black corals ( Antipathes spp.). It often shares these habitats with the multibarred ( Paracentropyge multifasciata ) and the regal angelfish ( Pygoplites diacanthus ).
Colin's angelfish occurs singly or in groups, with as many as five individuals having been observed in the same large cave. Like most other pygmy angels, it is probably haremic. Nothing is known of its food habits, but it has been suggested that it may feed on microalgae and possibly sponges.
Colin's angelfish is a secretive, delicate fish that needs to be treated with the utmost care if it going to survive in the home aquarium. The biggest challenge in keeping C. colini is to get this shy fish to acclimate to its captive home. To increase your chances of success, you should house it in an aquarium with plenty of hiding places and nonaggressive tankmates. I would recommend keeping this fish in a tank of at least 55 gallons (although I have housed it in smaller aquariums). The aquarium should be in a low traffic area of your home or office, to prevent human activity from frightening this fish. Dither fish, like Chromis spp. or a small group of flasher wrasses ( Paracheilinus spp.), will help encourage this fish to come out of hiding to feed and investigate its new home. Even when conditions are perfect, this fish will spend much of its time moving among rock work while acclimating to its new domicile.
One of the best ways to help you Colin's angel "feel at home," which will facilitate the fish's acclimation and make it easier for you to observe, is to create a cave or overhang in the aquarium. There are several ways to do this. One thing to remember before constructing these structures is that stability is of the utmost importance. If a cave or overhang should collapse, the rockwork may crush a fish or even break the aquarium glass. One of the easiest ways to create caves is to use live rock of varying shapes and sizes. Just take a flat piece of rock and prop it up on both ends with rocks that are more round in shape. If the flat rock projects to far forward it may be necessary to place a rock on the back of the flat piece to stabilize it.
Plexiglas stands or acrylic rods, which have been attached to a square base, can be used to help support the roofs of caves and overhangs. If you have a larger tank and want to create an impressive overhang near the surface you can also place a stout board (2" by 4") along the length of the tank. Use a drill, with a masonry bit, to place holes in a flat rock and cable ties to attach the rock to the board. Place the back of the rock against the reef wall that you built-up along the back of the tank. This will give the impression that the rock is attached to the reef and extending into the water column.
A thick piece of acrylic that has been bent into a U-shape with a wide flange on each edge can also provide a structure on which to stake rock and create a cave. The width of the piece of acrylic selected will determine how deep the cave will be. There are other ways to create these structures, just use inert products and your imagination!
Colin's Angelfish occurs in deepwater and, therefore, is more likely to suffer from decompression related maladies. The last individual I kept developed a lesion on its side soon after I acquired it. I suspect the infection may have resulted from the fish having been needled when it was brought to the surface. This technique involves using a hypodermic needle to "bleed" gas from the air bladder so that it is not damaged (remember Boyle's Law, i.e., as pressure decreases, volume increases). In many species this technique works well and causes few subsequent health problems for the fish. But some fish seem to be more susceptible to future infections as a result of this process.
My C. colini subsequently contracted a bad case of ick ( Cryptocaryon irritans ), I believe as a result of its compromised immune system, and eventually died. That said, I would suggest you select your C. colini very carefully. Avoid specimens that do not swim in a normal Centropyge-style - that swim with their tails above their heads and seem to have a difficult time maintaining their position in the water column. This is often indicative of a air bladder problem. Also look at the belly and dorsal musculature of this fish you thinking of purchasing. If the belly looks pinched in, and even worse, if the dorsal musculature looks atrophied, it indicates that the fish has been in a wholesalers tank for a while is emaciated, probably not having fed for the entire time it was being held.
Do not keep this angel with more aggressive tankmates. If picked on by larger or pugnacious angelfishes, belligerent dottybacks, larger damsels, or any other aggressive fish its chances of survival are very slim. Although it makes for an interesting display, I would avoid housing it with the sympatric multicolor angelfish ( Centropyge multicolor ). I have had it dominant C. colini in smaller tanks. Both species share microhabitat preferences, which may lead to more agonistic interactions. Of course, keeping C. colini in a larger tank with plenty of suitable hiding places will help in preventing some of the behavioral problems that may occur if it is kept with moderately aggressive tankmates.
Is Colin's angelfish suitable for a reef tank? First of all, I should point out that a reef tank is a perfect environment for keeping C. colini. Reef tanks are usually replete with caves and crevices for these fish to refuge in. There are also natural foods on the live rock that this fish may pick at during the acclimation process. But unfortunately, this species has been known to damage stony corals. The individuals that I have kept have nipped at zoanthids and incessantly bite the large-polyped stony (LPS) corals, Cynarina and Scolymia. They are apparently a threat to many of the LPS species, like the elegance ( Catalaphyllia jardinei ), open brain ( Trachyphyllia geoffroyi ), and tooth coral ( Lobophyllia spp.). My Colin's angelfish did not bother Euphyllia corals, a variety of soft corals and mushroom anemones - however, that does not mean that these corals will always be immune to being picked on! Pygmy angels of most types are less likely to cause problems if the tank is larger and they are fed more frequently. In the case of C. colini, they often do not feed for a while in captivity so they are more likely to look for a more "natural" prey source (e.g., a large, fleshy coral polyp).
In conclusion , some individuals will adapt and thrive in the home aquarium, even to the point of readily accepting flake food and frozen preparations. But without the special requirements described above, this species typically pines away in the home aquarium. It is only suitable for those aquarists that are willing to meet its special needs. Happy fish-watching!
Seahorses have captured the attention of people for centuries; there are pictures of seahorses dating back to the 1500's. Seahorses are beautiful creatures that seem to have been pulled straight from a fairytale. There are approximately 36 sp. of seahorses1 all belonging to the Sygnathid family (Genus Hippocampus). Pipe fishes and seadragons are also included in the Sygnathid family but will not be covered in this article.
Seahorses have very distinct characteristics. First and foremost, unlike most fishes they swim upright using only their dorsal and opercular (modified pectoral) fins for propulsion. They do not have a caudal fin, in its place they have a long muscular prehensile tail. They also lack any scales; instead their bone structure is modified into a series of plates that act as bony armor. Another very obvious trait of the seahorse is it's horse-like head (giving it the name seahorse) with a bent neck and a long snout. This adaptation allows the seahorse to probe into nooks and crannies for prey, that they then suck up with a "snick" of the snout that causes a vacuum like suction2. Their prey items, mostly small crustaceans such as mysis shrimp, amphipods, isopods, and copepods are readily abundant in almost any shallow habitat.
Seahorses choose habitats that are generally shallow (moving to deeper waters in the winter) and somewhat protected from currents. In every ocean there is at least one species of seahorse, if not many. Their habitats include rocky coral reefs and sandy grass beds. Seahorses can also be found floating among clumps of sargassum or other free floating macroalgae.
Though seahorses inhabit a diverse array of habitats, in the home aquarium they need the same basic care and water quality as other fishes. The main difference with seahorses is their sensitivity to changes in water quality, temperature (most like a typical 76 to 78 degree range, though some species are temperate), and even light. When setting up a seahorse tank there are several factors that must be considered. First and foremost is the filter, there should be no air bubbles and a low flow rate (this does not necessarily mean low gph). Seahorses like a fairly turbulence free tank, and air bubbles can lead to the dreaded Gas Bubble Disease (to be discussed later in the article). The next most important thing is to get a tank that is tall, seahorses are known for their intricate courtship rituals that take up a lot of vertical space. Substrate can vary by what decor you are looking for. Just remember that whatever substrate you chose, it should not have too many sharp edges for the seahorse to get cuts from. I prefer to use a small crushed coral or sand substrate. The last consideration in decor is hitching posts; rocks, plants, and corals (faux and real) should be chosen by their ability to be used as a hitching spot. Depending on species of seahorse, the size and maximum diameter of the hitching posts will vary.
There are very few tank mates that are suitable for a seahorse tank. In fact, most seahorse tanks are kept as Genius or Family only tanks. Most corals are not good for a seahorse tank due to the seahorse being scale-less and therefore prone to injury buy the stinging cells of the polyps. There are some gorgonians as well as soft corals that are seahorse safe. Most fish are not "seahorse safe." Seahorses are very slow and thoughtful eaters, taking a long time to pick out that one perfect morsel before snicking it up. Also, seahorses themselves would make a good meal for many common fishes (anglers, rockfish, and Tetraodontids). And the last group of animals that should be avoided are crustaceans, not only for the seahorses safety but for the safety of the crustacean as well. Seahorses are quite fierce predators and some of the larger species can snick apart cleaner shrimp and even smaller hermit crabs! Of course there are some species of crustaceans that pose a threat to seahorses themselves (larger crabs, and some of the more ferocious shrimps).
Instead of discussing further what cannot go into a tank to make a seahorse friendly environment, lets move on to what can be put in the tank. Of course, just about anyone would want a clean up crew, since seahorses can be quite messy eaters. Just about any gastropod (snails and limpets especially) can be put into a seahorse tank. I will suggest that you get several Nassarius snails if you are not going to have a feeding tray (also to be discussed later). There are some nudibranchs and mini-stars that could do well in a seahorse only tank. As far as fish companions go, just about any goby or blenny will be docile enough to live with a seahorse. Also, some clownfish and tangs have been known to do well in a seahorse tank, as long as they are well fed and a more docile specimen of the species. Of course, most sygnathids of similar size can be housed together. However, there is one exception to the rule. The Giant Pacific Seahorse ( H. ingens ) does not do well with other seahorses (or a tank that formerly housed other seahorses). This is the only species of seahorse found in the east Pacific, which makes H. ingens very susceptible to disease that other seahorses may carry.
Since disease has just been mentioned, I will move onto that aspect of seahorse keeping next. Seahorses are no more vulnerable to the "normal" fish diseases, given that they have proper water quality and nutrition. I have only seen one mild case of white spot, and that may have been a secondary infection to mycobacterium. Mycobacterium is a very common seahorse disease, and it is unfortunately fatal in most cases. Common signs of myco are: lethargy, loss of appetite, an abdomen that is very pinched or swollen, and eventually muted color/loss of vibrance. Kanamyacin and Maracyn have been known to prevent/reduce chance of myco infection, especially when given orally. However, neither drug has been proven to cure an infection that has gotten to a detectable stage. Vibrio, much like myco, is difficult to detect at an early stage and is often fatal. Signs of vibrio include lethargy, loss of appetite, and white or red spots on the skin indicating an open necrotic wound. Often when tail rot or snout rot is seen it is vibrio. If the lesions are caught early enough they can be treated with a multiple antibiotic that can be bought at your LFS (paragon II is a good one).
The final disease that plagues seahorses is Gas Bubble Disease (GBD). There are three main types of GBD, internal GBD (IGBD), external GBD (EGBD) and pouch emphysema. All GBD is caused either by gas supersaturation in the water column, or an internal bacterial infection. EGBD symptoms include gas bubbles forming under the skin. While IGBD symptoms include body bloat causing buoyancy problems. Pouch emphysema is only found in male seahorses, and is noticeable by the inflamed, reddened pouch (looks different from a pregnant seahorse). Treatment typically consists of 3 things: making sure there are no air bubbles getting into the system, treating with an antibiotic, and if available (only by prescription) treating with diamox. The actual bubbles under the skin may be popped, and with pouch emphysema the pouch should be evacuated.
Nutrition is a touchy subject in and of itself, because there are many different theories on how a seahorse should be fed. It is my opinion that, if at all possible, the seahorses should be trained onto frozen, enriched foods as soon as possible. Live foods should therefore, only be used as an enrichment item, to "give the seahorses something to do." The live foods should always be gut loaded with something high in vitamins and minerals (such as cyclopeze or spirulina powder). Frozen food should always be enriched with a vitamin supplement as well as something such as selcon that is high in fatty acids. Most frozen foods have a breakdown in amino acids making this addition a necessity. If frozen foods are not an option (you have a finicky eater), try to get live foods that are in the Penaeus (juvinile), Lysmata (juvinile) or mysid family, as they are more nutritionally sufficient.
If the seahorse will take frozen food, a feeding tray can be used, mainly to cut down on the amount of organic waste in the tank. A feeding tray can come in many sizes and forms, but overall is a small dish with a tube attached to lower the food into the dish. The seahorses will eventually learn to come to the dish to get their meal. Seahorses need to be fed at least one time a day, if not two. Seahorses have no stomach, only an intestinal tract. This causes the seahorse to eat on a more frequent basis since they are not absorbing as much of the nutrient at each feed.
There is not enough space or time to go over all the different and varied aspects of seahorse keeping in one short article. If anything, please remember to always have: a medical tank set up, a large supply of food, and to quarantine any animals that will be added in with your "ponies." Seahorses take a lot of time, patience, and effort, a small sacrifice to have these beautiful and charming creatures in your home. Each individual has a personality, and the variance in attitude during feeding, courting, and just greeting is an amusement all its own.
Though there are several books on the market for seahorses, a good one to start with is…Seahorses, Pipefish, and their relatives. By Rudie H. Kuiter. It is a good basic knowledge book and covers most known species.
Last time, I explained what sea slugs are, and why the common name "nudibranch" should not be applied blindly to the over 3000 species of opisthobranch molluscs (for more detail, consult a good invertebrate textbook such as Brusca and Brucsa 1990; Ruppert and Barnes 1994). I also discussed a couple of the non-nudibranch opisthobranch sea slugs that can be reasonably kept in an aquarium. For the most part, I have always advised against the purchase of any sea slugs because it is not common for many hobbyists or retailers to differentiate among the groups that may be suitable for some reef aquaria (some anaspideans, cephalaspideans or sacoglossans) and those that are almost certainly not (virtually all nudibranchs). In the first part of this article, I discussed some basic biology about the anaspidean and sacoglossan sea slugs. In this article I will focus specifically on the nudibranch sea slugs.
With only a couple of exceptions (see below), nudibranchs are completely inappropriate animals for home aquaria. Most large public aquariums have difficulty in keeping these animals alive for any length of time, and their success rate in home aquaria is abysmal. There are a variety of reasons for this low success rate, but their delicacy and highly specific feeding needs are two of the primary hurdles to keeping them in aquaria. Combine those with a lack of information about the basic needs of the vast majority of species (both in the scientific and hobby community), and you have a recipe for disaster.
OK, so which opisthobranch sea slugs are actually nudibranchs? Well, there are four suborders of Nudibranchs, although only 3 would ever be likely to appear in a pet shop: the Dendronotacea, Aeolidacea and Doridacea. The dendronotids are the smallest of these groups and are characterized by a cup-like sheath surrounding their rhinophores (the "antennae"). With few exceptions, dendronotids feed exclusively on cnidarians, and are most commonly found by aquarists as unwanted hitchhikers on Xenia or Sarcophyton. These animals are one of the exceptions to the rule that most nudibranchs starve to death in captivity. Although these animals often do reasonably well in the aquarium when accidentally introduced with the corals on which they feed, they can rapidly consume their coral prey in the aquarium (e.g., see Figure 8 in Ron Shimek's article here). Thus, these slugs are not generally something that you want to discover in your tank, let alone intentionally add! Aeolids are the second largest group of slugs, and are most easily identified by not belonging to one of the other two groups I am describing… Aeolids typically have well developed cerrata (finger or feather-like extensions along the back of the slug which contain a branch of the digestive system) in which many species store the unfired nematocysts (stinging cells of cnidarians) from their prey to use in their own defense when attacked. Obviously if they collect and store the stinging cells of their cnidarian prey, the nudibranchs must actively feed upon these animals. I will come back to this below. The aeolids are all predatory, and the vast majority of them feed on hydroids (although some also prey on other opisthobranchs or their eggs, corals, gorgonians, sea anemones, bryozoans or tunicates). The final group, the dorids, are the largest, with more species than all the other nudibranch groups combined. They are most easily distinguished by the presence of a ring of gills around the anus at the back of the slug. These are some of the most spectacularly colored and commonly photographed of all opisthobranch molluscs. There are three major groups of dorid nudibranchs (based on their morphology) and once again, all are specialist predators on other invertebrates. Two of the dorid groups are primarily sponge predators, while the third feeds primarily on bryozoans and tunicates.
I need to reiterate a point I made in the last article just to make sure that the message gets through - even if you didn't read Part 1. Unless you are able to determine the species of a sea slug and its exact requirements in captivity from a reliable source, I would always recommend against buying any of these animals. In their book Reef Invertebrates, Anthony Calfo & Bob Fenner (2003) have an entire section devoted to opisthobranch molluscs and discuss the selection, care and feeding of many of the species offered for sale in the hobby. They discuss the members of these groups in more detail than is possible in a short article here. Julian Sprung (2001) also has some very nice photographs and descriptions of some of the more common sea slugs to be sold in the hobby in his book, Invertebrates. If you don't have one of these books, and are unsure of the identification of the animals offered for sale in your local shop, ask your dealer to show you their copy of the books to compare. Although there are some spectacular pictures in these books, there are only a few of the more than 3000 known species mentioned, and your best resource for up-to-date information about the taxonomy and biology of an unidentified sea slug will probably be Bill Rudman's Sea Slug Forum or Michael Miller's Slug Site. Despite the fact that there are many beautiful sea slugs out there, unless you know exactly what you are buying and their feeding requirements, the rule of thumb is to always avoid ever purchasing any sea slug. Sadly, the vast majority of sea slugs are beautiful, but virtually impossible to care for in the aquarium.
However, as I mentioned last time, there are some sea slugs that are reasonably well-suited to life in the aquarium. In fact, there are now some species of captively-raised sea slugs now available from vendors such as Inland Aquatics, IndoPacific Sea Farms, or Stockly's Aquarium. You should also keep in mind that all opisthobranchs are relatively short-lived, and you may be paying a lot of money for an animal that will only live several months under the best of conditions! If you're determined to add a sea slug to your aquarium, however, I'd recommend that you look into one of the captively-raised species - not only will you get an animal well-adapted to life in an aquarium, the supplier will be able to tell you exactly what conditions are required to keep the animals alive! And, because their requirements are known and can be met, you may find that one of these species actually thrives in your aquarium and are able to reproduce.
If you do a search for "reef safe nudibranch" on the web, there are literally hundreds of hits, but the vast majority of these are either gravely misinformed or trying to sell you a line. For example, I found several sites that listed "algae eating purple and yellow nudibranchs" for sale that claimed these slugs were "incredible algae eaters that will not harm any invertebrates or corals!!!" Well, that information quite simply wrong. First of all, no dorid nudibranch is herbivorous, and there is a page of the Sea Slug Forum devoted to dispelling some of the common aquarium trade misinformation such as this. Quite simply, although dorids are the most diverse group of opisthobranchs, they are also among the most specific feeders of all molluscs. The animals studied thus far are almost without exception specialist predators that require one or at most a few species of specific prey to survive, and in most cases the animals will not even recognize perfectly suitable alternatives as food! In any case, there are no true nudibranchs yet discovered that are herbivores, so this is either a big misunderstanding on the part of these suppliers, or (and I hope this is not the case!) a deliberate ploy to get consumers to buy a beautiful but completely inappropriate animal before it starves to death.
These lovely purple and yellow nudibranchs are Hypselodoris bullocki. This species used to belong to the genus Chromodoris, but has recently been reclassified as Hypselodoris. Contrary to the reports from many suppliers, these beautiful little slugs are sponge specialists, and many accept only a single sponge species as suitable prey. In fact, it turns out that these nudibranchs don't even recognize other sponges as food, let alone algae, and the claim that buying these nudibranchs will add "beautiful color and take care of algae at the same time" is absolutely false and misleading. Aside from wasting your money as a consumer, it is terrible to sentence these animals to a slow death via starvation because even well-intentioned aquarist have been mislead into providing inappropriate food for their animals. Unfortunately, in this case, scientists are not even sure about the exact species of sponge on which the various color forms of this nudibranch feed. There are reports of H. bullocki feeding on some sponges of the genus Halichondria, while others report that they feed exclusively on Dysidea or Aplysilla. Sadly, no one knows whether the reports of these slugs being found on a given sponge represent actual feeding, or whether the slug will accept any other sponge species even if the feeding reports are all accurate. Given that most reef sponges are considered more difficult to keep than even these delicate sea slugs, the chances that you have an abundant supply of suitable food on hand to feed these guys is pretty slim. However, biology is full of exceptions to the rule: Bill Rudman reports that the endemic species of Rostanga in New Zealand, by some freak of biochemistry, was found to prefer an introduced sponge from Europe over all the native New Zealand sponges that it normally fed on.
Regardless of whether the ultimate cause of the misinformation at the retail level is a lack of education or a deliberate ruse, the ultimate message is that you as a hobbyist should never consider purchasing one of these animals. Unless you know specifically which slug you are buying and what their preferred prey are (e.g., the Aiptaisa predator slug, Berghia verrucicornis ), you should avoid any true nudibranch sea slugs (no matter how badly you want one), because their feeding requirements are so specific that very few people can keep them alive in aquaria (even large public aquaria with huge feeding budgets generally avoid them!). Even well-intentioned suppliers and advanced hobbyists can be easily misinformed about the animals they are trying to keep, and our knowledge of sea slug taxonomy and biology is still sadly incomplete. Add to that fact that there are more species of nudibranchs than there are of all of the remaining sea slug orders combined and that many are undescribed or their feeding biology is unknown, and it becomes very likely that a random sea slug in your local shop is going to starve to death in your tank if you were to buy it.
OK, I have to come clean and admit that there are some true nudibranchs that can do well in aquaria. Most of these exceptions are actually considered pests in the aquarium. Almost all dendronotid sea slugs feed exclusively on cnidarians, and these animals are most commonly found by aquarists as unwanted hitchhikers on Xenia or Sarcophyton in the reef aquarium. The most common nudibranchs to prosper in the aquarium tend to be members of groups such as Phyllodesmium and Doto which prey exclusively on aquarium corals such as Briareum, Xenia, Carijoa and Sarcophyton, to name a few. It is becoming more-and-more common that small aeolid nudibranchs have been found consuming prized colonies of SPS corals in reef tanks. Many of these slugs are tiny (less than 1 centimeter in length) and are very easy to overlook. Unfortunately for hobbyists, these animals appear to some of the few sea slugs that reproduce well in the aquarium, because they lay tiny egg masses that house the babies through the entire larval stage until they hatch as crawl- away juveniles. This is a particular worry because once they are introduced to dealer's tanks, they can be easy spread into the home aquarium by hitchhiking either as eggs or well-camouflaged adults. In general these slugs are not something that you want to discover, let alone intentionally add to your tank!
There are some cases where we try to take advantage of the specific prey habits of these slugs for biocontrol in the aquarium. There are a variety of species that feed specifically on aquarium pests and are therefore sold as a remedy to remove these pests. One of the most popular such species, Berghia verrucicornis, is being actively cultured for addition to aquaria plagued by the proliferation of those pesky glass anemones, Aiptasia (e.g., Carroll and Kempf 1990). Unfortunately for both the animals and the aquarist who has spent a considerable amount of money on them, most slugs are quite sensitive and frequently die shortly after being introduced to a new aquarium. Another concern is that they often fall short of the lofty goal of eradication because of their extreme diet specificity. These animals often reduce the population of the pest species in the tank to the point that they starve. Sadly, they usually can't find those last few pests in the tank before they succumb to starvation and therefore pack it in just short of complete eradication. After the nudibranchs starve to death, the pests are again able to grow unchecked and the plague continues.
But there is at least one cool exception to that rule. There is a filter- feeding dendronotid nudibranch, Melibe leonine, that can be maintained on feedings of enriched brine shrimp in aquaria (Monterey Bay Aquarium has a magnificent display of these animals)! Unfortunately for the average aquarist at home, this species is temperate, and can only be maintained in a cool water aquarium representative of their natural range from Alaska through the Gulf of California.
The dorids are the largest group of nudibranch sea slugs, with more species than all the other nudibranch groups combined. They are most easily distinguished by the presence of a ring of gills around the anus at the back of the slug. There are three major groups of dorid nudibranchs (based on their morphology) and two of these groups are primarily sponge predators, while the third group feeds primarily on bryozoans and tunicates (Brusca and Brucsa 1990; Ruppert and Barnes 1994). Although dorids are the most diverse group of opisthobranchs, they are also among the most specific feeders of all molluscs. The animals studied thus far are almost without exception specialist predators that require one or at most a few species of specific prey to survive, and in most cases the animals will not even recognize perfectly suitable alternatives as food! Many species are specifically adapted to deal with the defensive chemistry of their prey and often take advantage of those chemical defenses for their own defense as well.
For example, the Spanish Dancer ( Hexabranchus sanguinensis ) is a nudibranch that is often offered for sale in petshops. Like most of its brightly colored relatives, the Spanish Dancer defends itself with distasteful chemical compounds (antifeedon chemical defenses) that it derives from its prey. Like the vast majority of dorids, which prey specifically on one or a few species of invertebrate prey, H. sanguinensis is a specialist predator that consumes only sponges. Like many other nudibranchs, these animals concentrate and/or modify distasteful chemicals from their prey and incorporate them into their skin to repel attacks by their own predators. Many (if not most) interactions between feeding by nudibranch species and their prey are not particularly well studied, but H. sanguinensis happens to be one of those that is well-known (which is why I picked it as an example). The defensive compounds (trisoxazole macrolides, if you are into such things), are derived from the black sponge ( Halichondria sp.) on which they primarily prey. However, it turns out that H. sanguinensis is one of the lesser specialized species of dorid in this respect, and although they will only eat sponges, the list of sponges that they will consume includes Ancorina, Callyspongia, Cliona, Haliclona, Adocia, Mycale, Zygomycale, Pachastrella, Paraesperella, Petrosia, Stelletta, Xestospongia, Halichondria, and Leucetta (Francis 1980; Pawlik et al. 1988).
Halichondria sponges have a variety of nasty defensive chemicals (e.g., (Yamagata et al. 1990), that are highly effective in protecting the sponge from being eaten on the reef (Dunlap and Pawlik 1996). However, the specific defensive chemicals isolated from the flesh of the nudibranch are not actually found in the sponge. Instead, the defensive compounds used by this slug are modified directly from sponge products during the digestion process after the sponge is eaten (Pawlik et al. 1988). The Spanish Dancer then incorporates the toxic compounds derived from the sponges on which it feeds into its egg masses as well as its own brightly-colored flesh. In this case, the defensive chemicals also happen to have an antimicrobial function, and are thought to protect the eggs from both predation and infection simultaneously (Pawlik et al. 1988). Like the other nudibranchs, these animals are simultaneous hermaphrodites, and the eggs which they produce hatch into feeding veliger larvae which feed on phytoplankton for 4-6 weeks before metamorphosing into tiny adult slugs. The biggest problem is that the chemical cue to which these larvae respond and on which they metamorphose is unknown. People have hypothesized that the cue is associated with the sponge species on which they prey, but no one has yet managed to isolate the metamorphic inducers for this (or most other) opisthobranch species (Pawlik 1992). So even if it were possible to breed them and raise the larvae, there would be no way to induce them to settle, so they would never turn into adults.
Having said that, obviously any animal you see in the pet shop is wild-caught, and despite the impressive list of diverse sponges on which this species will feed, you are unlikely to be able to find a reliable supply of any of them in your local shop. Thus, adding one of these beautiful animals to your aquarium guarantees that it will be doomed to slow starvation, no matter how well established or diverse. Sadly, by buying one of these animals, you also encourage the pet shop to bring in more to sell. That is bad because even the most experienced aquarist will be unable to feed it properly (even professional aquariums such as Monterey Bay and Waikiki have a difficult time keeping nudibranchs well-fed and healthy), and they will inevitably die in home aquaria.
Aeolids are the second largest group of nudibranch sea slugs after the dorids, and are most easily identified by not belonging to one of the other 2 groups I have described above (for a more detailed explanation, see Brusca and Brucsa 1990 or Ruppert and Barnes 1994). Aeolids typically have well developed cerrata (finger or feather-like extensions along the back of the slug which contain a tubular branch of the digestive system). These cerrata function jointly as gills, and for the digestion and assimilation of their prey. The wonderfully unique feature of these gills that that most species use their cerrata to store the unfired nematocysts (stinging cells of cnidarians) from their prey to use in their own defense when attacked. These nudibranchs rip off mouthfuls of their cnidarian prey, but have figured out how to prevent the nematocysts from their food from discharging and stinging them. Instead, the nematocysts are collected and stored in the tip (often very obvious and bright white) of the cerrata of the nudibranch for their own defense. The slugs are so good at providing suitable storage for these stolen nematocysts (called kleptocnidae) that even immature isolated nematocysts are capable of maturing and being ready to fire in defense of the slug when attacked. Nematocysts don't last forever, though, and as the cells age and become incapable of firing their defensive threads, they are expelled from the tips of the cerrata and digested.
Once again, the aeolids are all predatory, and there are no herbivorous members that could be considered tank cleaners. The vast majority of aeolid species feed on hydroids, corals, gorgonians, and sea anemones (although some also prey on other opisthobranchs or their eggs, bryozoans or tunicates).
All true nudibranchs should be considered "very difficult to keep" and even experienced and advanced aquarists should avoid purchasing them. Unless you know the identity of the slug to determine the specific requirements of the animal and its prey species, and are able and willing to provide for both, no one should ever consider buying a nudibranch for their reef tank. In my last column I discussed the general biology of some of the sea slugs that are more likely to be suited to life in the aquarium than the nudibranch sea slugs discussed here. Granted, there are some exceptions, such as Berghia verrucicornis which I mentioned above. However, there are only a handful of such species from the more than 3000 described opisthobranch sea slugs out there. The simple fact is that the vast majority of nudibranchs should be avoided in the aquarium trade.
Even in the case of well-known nudibranch species where we know the specific food requirements of the animal (such as the Spanish Dancer discussed above), the problem remains that most preferred prey species are rarely available in the hobby. Obviously, we need both the animal and its food to care for it in captivity, and the sale of one without the other is deceitful and irresponsible. Sadly, even this example in which the sale of the Spanish Dancer is frequently done without proper consideration of the prey availability is actually better than most nudibranchs. At least someone who is really determined to keep a Spanish Dancer knows in advance what is needed to attempt this feat. That is not true for the vast majority of these amazing molluscs; not only is the prey unavailable, but in the vast majority of cases, it is completely unknown.
Finally, before I sign off for this article I have to get on my soap-box and say that not all shops have staff that is qualified to provide buyers with accurate information about the animals they sell. Keep in mind that the shops are not just hurting your chances of keeping an animal if they provide blatantly false information about their care (such as the "reef safe herbivores" section above or the examples I mentioned last time that got me started on this series). If that kind of misinformation is indicative of the general quality of information a given supplier provides you, then you probably ought to look around for a shop that provides you with more reliable information on your future purchases. Personally, I'd much rather hear "I don't know" from the shop employees than something that is totally inaccurate! At least "I don't know" can be followed up with research that gives the animal a chance of survival, but blatantly misleading information is essentially a guarantee that you will fail with your new animal. Only by letting the dealers take the hit with animals dying in their tanks and never being sold can we 'cast our vote' to stop the spread of misinformation and the importation of inappropriate animals to the pet trade...
"I would love to keep some, but I don't have any type of aquarium for them" I hear that phrase on regular basis regarding the husbandry of juvenile fish, specialty feeders, and jellyfish. While it is true that all of these animals have special needs, it doesn't mean that they are impossible to keep. Admittedly difficult, but maybe not for long.
The purpose of this paper is to discuss current efforts and to propose new ideas for the culture and care of some rare and difficult animals. During the Marine Ornamentals conference held during March of 2004 a presentation by the remarkable Todd Gardner titled "A Low-Tech Approach to Jellyfish Culture" demonstrated ways that public and private aquaria can create simple jellyfish systems. In addition Gardner stated that such systems were so simple to create that even home hobbyists could create and maintain them.
The basic ideas behind these modified aquaria are to create unique physical parameters that are better designed for specific animal needs. In particular slow moving, circular water flow, screened overflow preventing small larvae for leaving the system, inclusive biological filtration, and a lack of physical objects. These systems are often termed "Kreisels." The physical objects can be quite disastrous to delicate animals such as jellyfish. In fact jellyfish are often kept in isocratic systems to avoid items as minute of concern as the corners of the aquarium.
In other words to goal is to create a system that will be able to house delicate animals with little effort.
Very few materials are needed for a project like this. Basically you need an aquarium, some common aquarium plumbing fittings, and some acrylic solvent/glue. The example shown here utilizes a used 20 gallon aquarium. This was selected for a couple of reasons, notably the size being recommended here as a minimum size, and also because they are common to find in the hobby. Common enough that I believe most hobbyists would need not look much further than their own storage shed or nearby garage sale to find one.
Selecting an aquarium for this type of project is an important first step. Obviously, the larger the aquarium, the better for most husbandry reasons. Additionally the final project may create an aquarium with a very limited viewing area. We'll get to this in more depth later, but basically a 20 gallon aquarium used for this may have less viewing area than a typical 10 gallon aquarium.
The second step is to decide how this system will be filtered, and fed. The aspect of feeding is generally of little concern, but the area of filtering is indeed challenging. Some hobbyists have personal preferences for plenum systems, deep sand beds, mechanical filtration, refugia, and protein skimmers. All of these items can be used in these delicate animal display tanks. In this example a sand bed below the display tank and an overflow to a refugium are planned for use.
Here an old used 20 gallon glass aquarium is acquired. The aquarium is drilled for an overflow return system. This can be drilled on the side, back corner, or bottom of the aquarium. Second a filter screen for the drain is installed.
Now comes the tough part. A flexible piece of plastic is cut to fit into the aquarium. This plastic can often be found as a scrap from a local plastic fabrication. The type of plastic is not important, as long as it is metal free, flexible, and non toxic. Here a piece of Styrene was used. The cutting to fit may seem simple but given the lip most glass aquariums have, getting a perfect fit is often filled with trial and error. Therefore the piece shown here was trimmed and tried several times before getting the perfect fit. If you would like to skip this process then I suggest cutting a piece 11.75 inches by 37 inches as that was the final measurements of the piece seen here.
Now with the plastic in place reference marks can be made on the outside of glass. Basically marks to outline the "U" shaped area created by the plastic. While not necessary a step is shown here with acrylic braces being constructed within the tank. Alternatively a p.v.c. frame (like those used in reef tanks to support live rock) can be used.
Now it is time to create overflow holes in your flexible plastic. Unlike many reef systems, the elevation of these holes does not determine the water height of this display tank. Instead an abundance of small holes is used to prevent high velocity. Juvenile fish fry and jellyfish will be lodged into overflow/filter holes if the velocity is too high. This is why you really can't have too many small exits. We start by marking the plastic where holes are to be drilled. In this case I simply drew a grid on the plastic, then just drilled holes at every intersection.
Now we can see how the final tank will look. The flexible plastic insert is not permanently installed, and it is not held water tight. When setting up this system the bottom portion under the flexible plastic can be of a different display area (refugium) or can simply be a water zone. That area can be visible as seen in the empty system, or can later have a cover to hide the area for aesthetic reasons.
Water return lines are also important in these systems. Slow water flow may be needed to keep animals suspended, but also slow enough to prevent collisions with one another. The inlet system should be plumbed to include either a spray bar (pipe drilled with several holes over a long area) or with a diffused fitting as shown here.
While juvenile fish and jellyfish systems are previously and widely known as difficult systems to maintain, aquaria for such animals and the like can be made by home hobbyists. With very little costs and even less experience, hobbyists can create systems very similar in design to those used by large public aquaria. The main concerns and the most important aspect of creating these systems are to decide how much of the system is viewable and how the filtration will take place.
First off I would like to thank Todd Gardner of Atlantis Underwater World. Todd is a wonderful addition to this hobby and his willingness and ability to bridge the gap between public aquaria and home hobbyist are impressive to say the least. Secondly I would like to thank Bob Burhans from the Birch's Aquarium at Scripps for his insight and knowledge about seahorse husbandry. He is not only knowledgeable but eager to help those who wish to contribute to the aquaculture of these ill-omened animals. Funding for this project was provided by The Aquatic & Terrestrial Research Team, and publication and support was generously provided by The Advanced Aquarist Online Magazine.
Adam Blundell M.S. works in Marine Ecology, and in Pathology for the University of Utah. While not in the lab he is the president of one of the Nation's largest hobbyist clubs, the Wasatch Marine Aquarium Society (www.utahreefs.com). He is also Director of The Aquatic & Terrestrial Research Team, a group which utilizes research projects to bring together hobbyists and scientists. His vision is to see this type of collaboration lead to further advancements in aquarium husbandry. Adam has earned a BS in Marine Biology and an MS in the Natural Resource and Health fields. Adam can be found at firstname.lastname@example.com.
Welcome to What in Neptune's World - a column intended to explore the wonders of the coral reefs in an entertaining, interactive manner.
This month, we have a mystery fish seeking identification. The answer will be announced the General Discussion Forum the first week of the following month. In the meanwhile, feel free to discuss the possibilities with other hobbyists in this thread in the Reefs.org's General Reef Discussion Forum.
A selection of useful tidbits of information for the aquarist. Readers are encouraged to send their tips to email@example.com or to post them to our Hot Tips sticky in the Reefs.org General Reefkeeping Discussion forum for possible publication. Next month's Hot Tip theme will be "Automation Tips".
A pH meter will come in handy! And test the alkalinity of your tank water, not the alk of the reactor effluent.
-- "Bone"
Check your reactor often, the taps can quickly become blocked with deposits, causing a buildup of C02 inside the unit.
My second tip would be to get a fluidised reactor if you can afford it, their much more efficient with the media, and can allmost use all of it up without getting blocked up.
-- "Mouse"
My tip would be to forget about bubble counts and drip rates. The size of the bubbles and drip on each brand of reactor will be different. If you want to compare how your reactor is running compared to someone else's you need to know the PH of the effluent and the rate of the effluent.
I set my reactor so that the effluent runs into a cup in my sump. I keep a PH probe in the cup 24/7. At a glance I can look at the PH of the effluent in the cup and how fast the effluent is running out of the cup into the sump and know that my reactor is working properly. When dialing in the reactor you can adjust it by changing the effluent rate up or down and adjusting the bubble count to keep the PH of the effluent at the level you want it. This also helps to off gas co2 as the effluent runs from the cup into your sump and will help keep the PH in your tank from dropping as much when you run a reactor.
I run my reactor at 6.7 PH after the 2nd chamber at an effluent rate of 400ml per minute. That's for a 415 gallon tank with plenty of stony corals.
-- Nathan Paden
I find the a flowmeter for the CO2 make adjust the PH of the effluent a snap
Like Nathan, I have the effleunt run into a cup (actually, an empty container that 35MM films comes in is perfect) in the sump. I keep a PH probe in that cup.
I pump water to the reactor through a needle valve. This makes it easy to control the drip rate.
-- "Louey"
If you have problems maintaining magnesium levels as well then add pure dolomite to the reactor to help elevate Mg levels (happens pretty slow).
Dolomite is a mineral containing both calcium and magnesium carbonate, CaMg(CO3)2. As it dissolves it will add both calcium and magnesium.
The amount to add depends on the system demands and configuration of the reactor. It is not uncommon for 10% to 20% of the media used to be dolomite. Monitor and adjust as needed.
Get the dolomite from a reliable source and make sure it is pure.
-- Richard Durso, "reefland"


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Amazon first gained notoriety as a bookseller, but soon became famous as the most prominent general online retailer. On Amazon, someone can buy goods from a large array from companies: everything from iPods to T-Shirts. But when it comes to products manufactured by Amazon themselves, the only product that readily comes to mind is the Kindle.
It looks like Amazon is planning to change this by selling a new line of electronic accessories under the name, "AmazonBasics." This isn't the first time Amazon has created their own private label. Amazon actually owns the Pinzon, Strathwood, Pike Street, and Denali brands. This, however, marks an important move by Amazon in the electronics market and I don't think it's a coincidence that they are now deciding to use the "Amazon" name outright.
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Givenness and God: Questions of Jean-Luc Marion (Perspectives in Continental Philosophy)
Language: English
Pages: 368
Format: PDF / Kindle (mobi) / ePub
After the subject and beyond Heideggerian ontology,Marion suggests, there is the sheer givenness ofphenomena without condition. In theology, this liberationmeans rethinking God in terms of phenomena such aslove, gift, and excess. In addition to an important essayby Marion, The Reason of the Gift, and a dialoguebetween Marion and Richard Kearney, this book containsstimulating essays by ten other contributors: Lilian Alweiss,Eoin Cassidy, Mark Dooley, Brian Elliott, Ian Leask,Shane Mackinlay, Derek Morrow, John O'Donohue,Joseph S. O'Leary, and Felix à Murchadha. After the subject and beyond Heideggerian ontology, Marion suggests, there is the givenness of phenomena without condition. In theology, this liberation means rethinking God in terms of phenomena such as love, gift, and excess. In addition to an important essay by Marion, The Reason of the Gift, and a dialogue between Marion and Richard Kearney, this book contains stimulating essays by ten other contributors: Lilian Alweiss, Eoin Cassidy, Mark Dooley, Brian Elliott, Ian Leask, Shane Mackinlay, Derek Morrow, John O'Donohue, Joseph S. O'Leary, and Felix à Murchadha.
alterities is, strictly speaking, impossible: there can be no place from which both the thing and the face appear as other. Either the face is other as the thing is, or the thing is no other but an object to the gaze that finds no countergaze. There can be no question here of an overarching synthesis. What is possible, however, is to see what motivates this divergence. The issue amounts to a question concerning the interruption of being. Such an interruption is thought of by Marion as difference:
and loss, and therefore to the gift as such, only by leaving the horizon of exchange and economy. But is there any other horizon than this, and how is one to identify it? This other horizon could be discovered—if that is to be done without illusion or arbitrariness—only starting from the gift itself, or rather from the point where its phenomenon wells up just before it is dissolved into exchange, during the fragile moment where its three 112 Givenness and God ................. 11323$ $CH6
without requiring that it be dissolved into exchange. In order to appear, the gift reduced to givenness would only have to be given—no more and no less—without having to render reason for itself by coming back to a revenue and making the least return on investment. That would mean describing the gift without reconstituting the terms of exchange; that is, without the two terms that are the minimum basis for any exchange. For, if the giver were to give without a givee to acknowledge this, or if the
phenomenology and theology. Elsewhere, Givenness and God offers a suitably wide-ranging engagement with the work of a thinker whose work is renowned for its breadth, depth, and scope. As such, it represents the first collection in English dedicated to Marion's oeuvre. Yet, despite acknowledging Marion's status and significance, the collection is a genuinely critical encounter: none of the contributors is reluctant to identify difficulties, aporiai, or possible blind spots in aspects of Marion's
(Acts 20:35). Gratitude is a conscious motivation, and generosity based on gratitude is a duty we learn. There is an infinite asymmetry between giving and receiving. I receive everything—the world, my very existence, every grace and blessing— but I give very little in return. One might say that giving sets the seal on one's awareness of receiving, and attests eloquently to universal givenness. But to claim that giving is as universal and permanent an activity as receiving would be to identify all