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Ask Dr. Piton... about aid ratings
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Nov 5, 2001, 12:41 PM
Post #1 of 16 (30359 views)
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Ask Dr. Piton... about aid ratings
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The other day me and my friend decided to hone our aid skills on a very thin roof crack near my home. Despite the fact that I was scared sh**less at the time, IT RULED!!!
However, like many climbers, I am probably over-obsessed with ratings. Is there any sort of brief overview you could give concerning A-ratings (specifically with clean placements)? This may be a lame question, but I really want to know how stupid I was yesterday.
[ This Message was edited by: camhead on 2002-12-14 09:23 ]
Nov 13, 2001, 9:16 PM
Post #2 of 16 (30357 views)
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I have held off on answering Camhead's post because I want to talk about a different kind of aid climbing grading system called the
Casual Rating System.
It is something proposed by
Jim Bridwell
back in the days when I subscribed to Mountain Mag and devoured every word he wrote, and it is in my opinion, a far far better way to grade aid routes than the
A1 to A5, new wave vs. old wave crap that confuses the heck out of everyone, even Dr. Piton. This too is a post well worth waiting for.
When I last spoke with Jim, we discussed his
Casual Rating System
for aid, and I told him how much I preferred it to the
way. When I repeated my understanding of the grades to him, I was very surprised to learn that the version published in the magazines was edited! While there may even be a few
Big Wall Theorists
nodding their heads as they read this because they [think] are familiar with the
, they would be best advised to wait. For it is
here in Dr. Piton's forum where you will receive the
unedited version of CRS
directly from the mouth of the
Note: It is important to distinguish between the
Casual Rating System CRS
and the
Other CRS
a malady which Dr. Piton's ex-wife
frequently accused him of suffering from -
Can't Remember $#!&
This would be evidenced by my constantly forgetting to take out the garbage, or to remember to buy some milk on the way home from the office, at least on those days I actually
to go to the office.
It is in fact a
skillfully-crafted illusion
that Dr. Piton suffers from
, the same disinformation that caused her to say with some frequency, "you don't know which end of a hammer to hold!"
This was in reference to my apparent complete incompetence when faced with the prospect of actually having to do some work around the house.
As his readers are by now familiar, Dr. Piton is
exceptionally deft
in the use of his hammer, as long as it is used for
driving pitons
, and not for home improvement.
At the same time, Dr. Piton would also like to elucidate on some of the fallacies behind the
"clean aid"
or C-grade system, and the
really great exception
that Dr. Piton takes to so-called
clean ascents
and the climbers who purport to make them.
In the meantime, you can check out these links to
aid ratings. If you have been following Dr. Piton's writings, you will know that the word
has a very special meaning around here. To better understand the inner workings of the twisted mind of this big wall aid soloist, it is
to know what
really means. You might want to try a word search here on those two words if you're not familiar with their usage.
In fact, I'm going to answer the first half of Camhead's posts with some links. Please go there to read them.
In the meantime, and to allow everyone to get up to snuff on the basics, you can read about aid ratings here. Much has been published
aid ratings, but it is certainly time to lobby for a renaissance of the
Casual Rating System
Aid Ratings Explained
John Middendorf's Aid Ratings Guide
Dr. Piton
[ This Message was edited by: passthepitonspete on 2002-12-13 23:14 ]
Nov 13, 2001, 10:48 PM
Post #3 of 16 (30357 views)
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Those two links say nothing of the 'C' scale for
Clean Aid
. I know that you may not do this Pete, but please explain these as well. Since the current trend is moving toward Clean Aiding so as not to mar the rock by hammering in countless pins and such. Over time this ruins options for placement due to degradation of the rock in the weeakness. i.e. pinscars and such.
Nov 13, 2001, 11:14 PM
Post #4 of 16 (30357 views)
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Yes, when I talk about
I will talk about
clean aid
Please note: Dr. Piton highly favours clean aid for its rock-preserving nature. What Dr. Piton objects to is the way it is graded and the way Certain People purport to make Clean Ascents.
Stay tuned, kiddies, and study your
aid grades. I truly believe that
is indeed the
better way
of grading aid.
Cheers, Pete
Nov 16, 2001, 8:36 AM
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There is no magic to clean aid ratings versus
regular aid ratings. A
rating is the clean equivalent of the same
rating. Because clean aid placements are sometimes less solid than they would be if you used a piece of hammered gear in the same situation, it is unusual for the clean rating of a wall to be harder than its regular aid rating. For instance, a wall that goes at A2 using hammered gear might go at C4 using clean gear, because the clean gear is not as good and you are risking longer falls when using it.
When I write that I take exception to clean aid ratings, it does not mean that I take exception to clean aid. I will almost always use clean aid whenever possible for two reasons. The first reason is that clean aid like a cam or hook or stopper does not damage the rock [as] hammered aid like a piton or head. This is a good thing to do.
The second reason I will use clean aid is
because it is usually easier to place, and usually easier to clean. I say" usually" because some clean aid placements can be much trickier than their hammered equivalent, and some stoppers and cams can be real buggers to get out! But usually it's easier to place and remove clean aid. This is an important consideration for
People Like Me
who never want to do any more work than we absolutely
to! Soloing a big wall is the most physical work you will ever do in your life, so there is validity to the concept of conserving your energy. You do not want your wrists to hurt so much after funking over-driven pins that you cannot lift your beer. [Note: While soloing big walls requires a tremendous amount of physical work, it is the mental and emotional strains that turn back more wannabee soloists than the actual physical or technical difficulty of the climb itself. It is equally important (if not
important) to possess these latter two components in sufficient amounts.]
The problem with claiming a clean ascent of
virtually any big wall aid route is that at some point or other, you will almost always have to
use someone else's pre-existing hammered gear!
. This is because somewhere along the way you will come to a section of rock that can be climbed in
no other way
than by using hammered gear. You can't clean aid a copperhead seam, unless the copperheads are already in place. Ditto for a rurp seam. Frequently a piton scar will accept only a piton - a cam hook, cam or stopper simply will not work. If you are highly skilled this will happen less frequently since you will be a better climber and better able to use clean gear where climbers of lesser ability will have to use hammered gear. This is a good way to be. But there will be times when nothing else but hammered gear will work. On big wall aid routes, this is very often the case. So how can you claim a clean ascent if you used fixed hammered gear?
Now there are three possibilities you must
consider when you are faced with the nearly
inevitable situation where your only recourse for upward movement is to place hammered gear. The first and best possibility is that you will
try harder
and actually find a way to make the placement clean, thus improving your aid climbing skills. This is a good thing.
The second possibility is for you to
and use a "cheat stick" to bypass the hammered aid move and reach a pre-existing fixed piece above, which is usually a hammered piece anyway! This saves you the actual work of hammering in a piece of gear, and allows you to truthfully say you did all the moves clean. But you cheated. Cheat sticks are cheating. I used to use one when I was a beginner aid climber because I didn't have the skill to figure out all the moves. Now that I am experienced, I have
been able to figure out what the person ahead of me did to make the move that is currently stumping me. Sometimes this can take a long time - I have been stumped with difficult moves for an hour or even two hours before I finally found something that would work. I have not used a cheat stick in many years since I now have the skill to climb without cheating. But this skill takes time to acquire. I encourage people
to use a cheat stick, but to figure out what the climber ahead of you did. This might mean climbing easier routes until you figure stuff out.
Another option is to make the move by placing
hammered gear, but say you climbed it clean.
This third option is known as
, and is used by clean aid climbers from time to time. [Note: Most other climbers have also used this third option from time to time]
Sometimes climbers who want to make a
so-called clean ascent of a wall will first climb that wall and pre-place fixed gear in convenient places so that when they return to climb the route "clean", their fixed gear is already in place. This has also been a common practice in speed ascents - to rehearse the route ahead of time and leave behind some hammered gear fixed in place to save time and make easier the subsequent ascent. Enterprising and brave
booty hunters
will therefore make a point of climbing routes that have been thusly pre-equipped.
There is another dilemma concerning the use of clean aid, and this is the artificial inflation of the route's rating. As discussed above, a big wall may go at A2 using hammered gear but go clean at C4. This is because using clean aid forces you to avoid hammered aid placements when possible, and use what may well be body-weight-only placements which will not hold a fall. So you generally risk longer falls when trying to climb fully clean, and this is why a clean grade is generally higher for a wall than its equivalent aid rating.
There are some walls that simply do not require any hammering because all of the fixed hammered gear is already in place, or the rock lends itself to clean climbing the whole way because of natural cracklines. The Nose and Salathe Wall are examples of the latter, but you will of course find bolts and other fixed pieces on both. For instance, The Nose might be graded A1+, but it will also be graded C1+.
With regard to the artificial inflation of an aid climb's grade by climbing it clean instead of using hammered gear, you may have a different outlook on the situation when facing it in your aiders than you do when reading this post. What do you do when you are faced with a potentially clean aid placement after a series of difficult moves, where the clean placement is marginal but the hammered aid would be better?
Picture yourself here. You are on either the fifth pitch of Zenyatta Mondatta or the eighteenth pitch of Sea of Dreams, and you have just made ten hook moves in a row. I use these two pitches as examples - they come to mind first since I climbed them both this year. If you are a Real Aid Climber, your hands will now be sweating, as mine are, at the thought of being in such a situation. [Note: It is inconceivable to the more sane why we would ever knowingly
to place ourselves in such a situation. But those of us who
"get it"
fully understand.]
So after ten hook moves in a row, you are now
faced with the following dilemma. When
confronted with the option of using a marginal clean piece or using a bomber hammered one, which do you choose? Do you choose to artificially inflate the rating of the pitch by using the clean piece? Does this make sense to you? If this is your aim, then why leave behind any gear at all? Why not purposely skip clipping good pieces simply in order to inflate the rating? Assuming you will not skip leaving gear for pro, are you willing to risk your own life and limb merely to make a clean move, especially in light of fact that you cannot make a legitimately clean ascent since you are certain to clip fixed hammered gear? Are you gonna make a cam hook move or use a dicey stopper when you could use a piton instead?
When faced with this situation after ten hook
moves in a row, there is no second thought for me - I will grab a fat juicy Lost Arrow and
pound that m*therf*cker home!
Yeah, baby! To not do so would be to artificially inflate the grade of the climb, and I would consider this
There is a school of thought that says, if you have to drill, you might as well stick a rivet in the hole. I agree with this. I feel it is
to artificially increase the rating of a climb by drilling bat hook holes instead of placing rivets. If you have to drill because there was no other way to climb this blank section of rock to reach the next line of weakness, then you have to. The rating of the pitch will have to decrease. That is because that's the way things are. It would be
to make the climb harder just for the sake of making it harder.
If you follow this logic through to the situation above, there is some justification for using the solid hammered piece in place of the marginal clean piece.
In conclusion, it is always desirable to use a clean piece of gear instead of a hammered
piece. This is because it is usually faster, and usually doesn't hurt the rock as much. It will often make the climb harder, especially if you use a lot of marginal clean pieces in place of good hammered pieces. But is it worth it? There is
no such thing
as a clean ascent since somewhere along the way you will be using someone's fixed hammered gear. You must determine for yourself how
you are prepared to be.
And you know
stance concerning
I hope this sheds some light on the clean
climbing dilemma, and explains how the ratings work.
Yours etc.,
Dr. Piton
P.S. The next post I will write below concerns the
Casual Rating System
, which I believe to be a better way to rate aid climbs than using the
traditional "A" or "C"
grading system.
[ This Message was edited by: passthepitonspete on 2002-12-13 23:17 ]
Nov 17, 2001, 3:06 PM
Post #6 of 16 (30357 views)
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Now, before I describe the
Casual Rating System
, I have to discuss the controvery in aid climbing ratings, and this is the debate between
New School Aid Ratings
Old Wave Aid Ratings
. What has arrived along with
New Wave Aid Ratings
is a lot of confusion! About the only thing you can be
of with aid ratings is that there is
no certainty!
For instance, when Rick Lovelace made the first ascent of
The Shortest Straw
on El Cap's Southeast Face, he graded the route
. This is because, "it's all A1 until you fall." He happens to be right! But that doesn't tell subsequent ascensionists much, does it? The route now is graded A4 on the
system. I haven't done it, so I don't know what the
new wave aid grading
would be.
Part of the
new wave
concept is the mind game. It is an attempt to use grading to make you look more %!#@#in'. This is a concept with which I am well familiar. It is also a way to manipulate and confuse those who would follow in your footsteps. Aid climbers seem to enjoy a good sandbag even more than free climbers!
For instance in the days when I used to put up trad free climbs in Ontario, I would purposely grade them just a shade lower than what I thought they really were. I would far rather that subsequent ascensionists and guide book authors
my routes than
The idea is this - if someone climbs my route, a route that after many ascents has arrived at a consensus grade of say 5.10c, but which I had graded 5.9 after the first ascent, this climber will think, "wow, Pete must be pretty %!#@#in' if he thought this route was only 5.9!" On the other hand, if I graded this actual 5.10c route 5.11 after its first ascent, subsequent climbers would think, "man, that Pete must have been quite the wussy if he thought this route was 5.11." Undergrading climbs is of course a thingly disguised attempt by
People Like Me
with fragile egos to attempt to make ourselves look more %!#@#in'!
You might be interested to know that this particular argument was once used against me by a
, who incidentally is now a
. He wrote in 1984 that "in the last year, all of the R.O.C.C.'s climbs of 5.10 or harder have been downgraded." The truth of the matter was that five of the routes were in fact downgraded, but twelve were upgraded. Subsequent editions of the guidebook kept upgrading some of the climbs by yet another letter grade, and in quite a few cases, by several letter grades. Climbs we originally graded 5.8+ are now considered 5.10c, and so on. You might be amused to know that the former
who is quoted above is the very same person who subsequently
my routes several times in successive guidebook editions which he himself edited!
I'm speaking of course about Dave Smart. A couple years ago I ran into him and apologized for some unnecessary and personal attacks I made on him in 1984. I told him I felt very bad about what I had written about him, I apologized, and I asked him to forgive me which he told me he did. This was one less burden lifted from my heart. It takes a man of great character to forgive his
I digress. I bring up the story of the upgrade/downgrade because I believe this is one of the ideas behind
new wave aid ratings
New Wave Ratings
are always lower than their
Old Wave
counterpart. For instance, a climb that is graded A4 under the old system might be considered
new wave A2+
. This may be an attempt by the ascensionists to purposely
undergrade a climb for the reasons outlined above. It also may not be.
When Warren Hollinger and Miles Smart made the first ascent of Disorderly Conduct, they gave an overall grading of the wall, but they did not grade
each individual pitch
, a significant departure from the time-honoured standard. They did this I believe to raise the standard of adventure for those who would follow them, as you can read in the link above. Obviously the adventure is going to be magnified if you don't know where you're going to find the crux pitch! I believe Miles wanted to rate one of the hardest pitches
new wave A2+
, which is the
If you see this marked on any topo, watch out! It's probably really at least A4! I really hope this non-grading of individual pitches doesn't catch on - I like to know what I'm up against. There is enough adventure soloing big walls! Then again, a bit more adventure might not hurt either. At least when you know the grade you know when you should be
really scared
as opposed to merely
Another benefit of the
new wave
system is that it opens up the grades towards the top end by bringing the grades down, thus leaving more room in the top end for distinguishing the really really really hard pitches from the really really hard ones.
In Canada, weather forecasts and current temperatures are quoted in degrees Celsius, which has been the case here for the last twenty years or so. Even people like me with engineering backgrounds who are fully capable of "thinking in Celsius" still routinely convert to Fahrenheit!
This is the case with
new wave
ratings - most people want to know what it is on the "old scale".
Most people want to know what it is
The "actual grade" of an aid climb is always open to debate! One of the reasons for this, besides the difficulty with the grading system, is because the true grade of an aid climb, whatever the hell
supposed to be, is constantly changing with each subsequent ascent. This is because hammered protection permanently scars the rock. For instance, cracks that were originally rurp seams on Charlie Porter's first ascent of The Shield have evolved, thanks to repeated nailing, into knifeblade cracks and even cracks where you can hand place sawed-off angles or cams! Needless to say, The Shield is no longer the A5 Death Route it was on its first ascent. Repeated nailing has lowered the grade to
old A3
according to Chris McNamara's superb guidebook,
Yosemite Big Walls Supertopos
. Under the
new wave
system this might translate to
or thereabouts. Please don't quote me on this - I'm far better converting from Celsius to Frankenstein! At least in the latter conversion, there is a pre-defined arithmetic formula. Too bad we can't get one for aid ratings, eh?
One thing about aid ratings is that they are
not open-ended
like free climb ratings. Eventually 5.15 will be climbed and accepted. It may already have been climbed. With aid ratings, however, you're not "allowed" to go higher than A5! So when real live death route A5's get climbed, they will still only be considered A5. In the old Reid guidebook to El Cap, Wyoming Sheep Ranch is graded A5+, and I believe this was because some of the belays were very poor. Fortunately this notion, that a climb is harder and hence better if its belays are suspect, has not really caught on! This wall is now considered A4 on the old scales, and you'll have to ask someone what the equivalent new wave rating would be - I don't know, and I don't really care! I still think under the old scale. It would appear, though, that even today's real new wave A5 routes have bomber belays. Thank goodness.
So the new way does allow more space to open up in a close-ended system, to allow hard pitches to be merely A2 or A3, and allow really hard pitches to be
new wave A4
About the only pitch on El Cap that I am certain is new wave A5, or at least it was when I was up there, is the crux pitch on Reticent Wall. The bit that was climbed with beaks on the first ascent needed heads when I was up there because of increased nailing. It's possible this pitch is no longer new wave A5, though I suspect it may well be. The crux is well above there, and involves unprotectable hooking for a long long way. It is possible on this pitch to take a fall from nearly two hundred feet above the belay and rip every single piece on the pitch, striking the belay ledge as you fly past on your four-hundred-foot fall! Clearly, this pitch is A5 no matter
grading system you use! At least it used to be. The only way it would no longer be new wave A5 would be if some good pro somehow got manufactured in the hooking section. Perhaps if you bring enough hooks, enough duct tape and enough screamers, you could downgrade this pitch yourself! Up in the hooking bit, the real crux part of the crux pitch, there were a few pin placements, and clearly they were only for psychological purposes. When Chris Geisler led this pitch, he put the pins in
him because he was too afraid to
them and actually use them for aid! Sheesh. Blow it on this pitch in the wrong spot and you're a dead man.
One thing I am certain of is this: If you drill or chisel or enhance the rock in ANY way whatsoever (head placements are sometime chiseled), the pitch by definition cannot be
new wave A5
. To have that magic grade, there
cannot be any manufactured placements
The pitch above Wino Towers on Reticent Wall is "only"
new wave A4
. It's a
real live death pitch
, too, except that there is a drilled rivet partway up. But that means it can't be A5. I asked Steve Gerberding why he drilled instead of figuring a way past, and he told me that the feature he would have had to have used, while it might have held him or the first few followers, would not have lasted, and someone would later have had to have drilled anyway. So Steve drilled.
Steve is so %!#@#in' he doesn't need to artificially overgrade his pitches. He was "rewarded", if you want to call it that, by the unarguable A5 crux pitch higher on the route. I doubt Steve gives much thought or heed to his
If you want to know what to expect on a given aid rating, and say what to expect the dif- ference to be between say A2 and A4, then check out the links above.
But I repeat, the only thing you can be
of with with aid ratings is
It is for these reasons that
Jim Bridwell
proposed the
Casual Rating System
. I have outlined my reasons why I think the
new wave
system was developed, and when I get a moment, I'll write about
Dr. Piton
[ This Message was edited by: passthepitonspete on 2002-12-13 23:18 ]
Dec 22, 2001, 10:15 AM
Post #7 of 16 (30357 views)
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stands for the
Casual Rating System,
an excellent system of rating aid climbs devised by
Jim Bridwell
and friends in the
late 70's/early 80's,
and is a rating system that unfortunately just
didn't catch on.
I believe it to be a
superior rating system
to the one currently used, be it
old school
New Wave.
It's something I read about in the now-defunct
Mountain Magazine,
and I record it here from
but my memory was
refreshed recently
when I had an opportunity to
talk with Jim.
Please do not confuse the
with the malady from which I occasionally suffer, which is also known as
"CRS" - Can't Remember Sh*t.
Casual Rating System
dispenses with the usual
A1 to A5
ratings, and
simplifies things greatly.
Easy aid
is rated
which stands for
"No Big Deal."
I would consider something really easy like
The Nose
, which is
A1- or A1
to be
gives you all the precision you really need. But in rating aid climbs,
of grading is never the problem - it's the
of the rating that is so hard to determine!
Moderate aid
is rated
which stands for
"Not Too Bad."
I tend to rate hard aid as
saving the next rating for the
really hard stuff.
Really hard aid
is rated
which stands for
"Pretty Damn Hard.
You will know that the aid is
really hard
when you are
fearing for your very life.
being scared sh*tless
qualify a pitch to be graded
being scared sh*tless
is a normal part of everyday aid climbing.
It is interesting to note that in
Mountain Magazine,
a somewhat
sanitized version of CRS
was published.
was said to stand for
Pretty Darn Hard.
This is what I believed until
Jim straightened me out.
In the Mountain Mag, a
special rating
was sometimes
blowing it
was particularly
hazardous to your health.
stood for
"Real Heads Up",
or so I thought. When I mentioned the rating of
to Jim, he laughed and said, "it's really
DFU - Don't F*ck Up!
Words from the
I would consider the
A5 heading pitch on Jolly Roger
to be
and I would consider the
crux pitch of Reticent Wall
to be
Stuff like the
Coral Sea on Native Son
and the
Hook or Book Pitch on Sea of Dreams
would be
to me. Ditto for the
sick hook moves
above the
body-cleaving pinnacle on Jolly Roger.
Note that the
rating can occur on pitches which are not necessarily rated
I would consider both the
ten hook moves in a row
on the
fifth pitch of Zenyatta Mondatta
and the
eleven hook moves in a row
up high on the
Sea of Dreams
to be
but still definitely
If you look at any of my
annotated route topos,
you will see that I actually
Casual Rating System,
because this is what I prefer.
Probably the
most important thing to remember
if you are climbing pitches graded
is just this -
Don't F*ck Up!
Dr. Pee'd On
Aug 20, 2007, 11:53 AM
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Re: [camhead] Ask Dr. Piton... about aid ratings
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The technical difficulty and the exposure have to be separate to be able to assimilate the evolution of the materials (gear)
?The technical difficulty has to be an open scale, while the exposure has to indicate the risk and the gravity of the fall.
It would also be necessary to indicate the ethics of the climbing with a letter (classical A=, C Clean = )
Aug 20, 2007, 8:05 PM
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Re: [artifoatope] Ask Dr. Piton... about aid ratings
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They probably somehow managed to figure it out over the last six years.
Aug 20, 2007, 8:54 PM
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Re: [curt] Ask Dr. Piton... about aid ratings
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no one rocked the bold print harder than PTPP though.. i do suppose thread revivals are our own fault by telling people to do a search.. Search + date check! new standard?
Aug 21, 2007, 7:00 PM
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Re: [jakedatc] Ask Dr. Piton... about aid ratings
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sometimes a little
evival is good for the soul.
this particular one would rate a
- (the minus
that it wasn't
important to echo to the front page, but perhaps still worth reading once again for those who were lucky enough to miss it the first time) with my soon to be proposed and formalized
ystem when discussing the bumping of archaic threads.
It has more to do with how
the OP
, with a
consideration of how many follow-up posts it
have received and
the last post occurred.
post received a (
) due to the fact that the
follow-up posts,
taking into account
the OP himself.
Please excuse any weak-sauce attempt
poke fun at the OP.
Due to his own actions
(and the response of the previous ownership)
, he is no longer able to defend himself on this forum. It was
Aug 21, 2007, 11:14 PM
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Re: [stymingersfink] Ask Dr. Piton... about aid ratings
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Careful with the zombie dust, n00b. No telling what else you might get to raise from the dead around here. But this thread is a doozie.
Aug 22, 2007, 12:57 AM
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Posts: 111
Re: [passthepitonspete] Ask Dr. Piton... about aid ratings
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This is a nice system, like the old British climbing grades, but the problem comes when people run out of inspiration for the next acronym: where do you go after
, Please God Don't Let Me F**k Up?
Numerical systems have a deceptively simple elegance when it comes to expansion: you just keep going. They also translate better, that's why in Japan pretty much all free-climbing uses the YDS, despite early attempts to use the Saxon system. Unfortunately, most Japanese climbers have no real idea of what a 5.9 YDS climb actually is, and few seem to attempt such allegedly weak lower grades
That is the problem, none of the grades are coherently applied and while a catch-all system of wide descriptive grades is often more accurate by default, numerical grading systems are much easier to handle on a large scale.
seems like a good system, but I think the justification for applying a particular grade should be given whenever a route was graded, as you did for your examples. Then we would know you were honest and had ****** of steel when we upgraded your routes.
Aug 22, 2007, 8:42 PM
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Re: [domu888] Ask Dr. Piton... about aid ratings
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There are two well differentiated points of view.
1- the experts and those that they have been climbing for many years do not need much information. With an approximate datum already they have enough, because they have many resources.
2- those that do not dominate the aid climbing he will go to them a lot well all the information, even if she is complex.
For whom does she graduate? who tea more needed of a new graduation?
The new generations of aid climbers.
It can be thought. If we have achieved it, because not them.
The answer him clear. Nowadays the new generations have everything much easier and hardly struggle for nothing.
If him very difficult they change of goal.
Because of that the sport climbing triumphs so much
Aug 22, 2007, 8:44 PM
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Re: [artifoatope] Ask Dr. Piton... about aid ratings
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Is that you Majid?
Aug 23, 2007, 7:07 PM
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Excuse my ignorance Mahid?
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Hey all,
I've been working on a circuit for quite some time and have been coming across some issues. Initially I built the entire circuit using the IC's you'd find in a trinket and a trinket backpack. i.e. ATtiny85, MIC5225 and MCP73831. I kept running into problems with the complete assemble, so I figured it would make sense to isolate the parts.
Thus far I have got the programmed ATtiny to execute its commands.. which I'm pretty happy about. Unfortunately I am still running into trouble with the MCP73831 circuit which is modeled after the trinket pro backpack. When testing the circuit on a breadboard both LED's light up. While the red, charging LED burns bright the green, done LED is pretty faint. It remains this way no matter how long a battery is plugged in to the device.
My initial thought was that perhaps the components were to fair apart and it would serve me well to test them on a PCB. The issue now is neither LED turns on when plugged in. The only time I receive any LED feedback is when I connect a multimeter to the positive and negative ends of the red LED. In this instance the green LED turns on.
I've checked for shorts and cant seem to find any and even when as far as to build and test additional boards with no luck.
From what I can tell the IC might be functioning properly given the mutlimeter readings but the indication lights don't seem to be working properly. What could be the cause and why do I get such differing results from the breadboard to PCB? Is static shock really something I ought to concern myself with? I cant seem to figure it out considering the circuit is near identical to the backpack, minus the 2.5K resistor and jumper.
Looking at the data sheet I'm going to try testing the typical application of the MCP73831 on a breadboard and depending on if that possibly a PCB.
R1 and R2 - 1K
R3 - 10k
C1 and C2 - 10uF
Any thoughts?

subset: commoncrawl


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How to give back and support social businesses in Hanoi when you do not have the time to volunteer.
Update! How to give back and support social businesses in Siem Reap when you do not have time to volunteer!
An argument that shows how harmful voluntourism can be.
Reposting this post because GBS is currently in the midst of fundraising drive in order to stay open! Please consider making a donation if you can! I have worked with the Green Bamboo Boys Shelter in Vietnam for four years and it is an amazing organization that does great work for disadvantaged boys in Saigon.
How to be a responsible volunteer and avoid 'voluntourism'.
Still need to get some last minute shopping done? Look no further for some awesome Christmas gifts that are all helping make the world a better place. What a great way to spread some Christmas Joy!


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|Aliso Viejo, Calif.
|High School:
|Aliso Niguel
|Team Mercadel
2011-12: Played in 23 games, started 21...7.8 points per game, 3.4 rebounds per game, 40 steals, 28 assists...ranked second on the team in scoring and steals, and third in assists...had a team-high 18 points, including a put-back with eight seconds left in regulation that forced overtime, in MIT's 73-67 win at Coast Guard (12/6)...recorded a game-high 19 points at Caltech (11/25)...collected eight rebounds at Babson (1/11)...distributed four assists versus Wentworth (11/15), Albany (11/20), and Wheaton (1/18)...posted four steals against Clark (1/7) and Smith (1/21).
2010-11: Started all 24 games...8.6 points per game, 3. 6 rebounds per game, 46 steals, 37 assists, six blocks...led the team in scoring and steals, ranked second in assists, and fifth in rebounds...scored 23 points at Wheaton (2/9)...grabbed 10 rebounds versus Fisher (11/27) and Springfield (12/4)...dished out four assists at Springfield (12/4)...collected six steals at Smith (1/8)...NEWMAC Athlete of the Week (11/29)...tied for ninth in the NEWMAC in steals per game.
Off the Court at MIT: Majoring in biology...conducted research in the Goosens Lab at MIT's McGovern Institute for Brain Research...co-chair of MIT Mujeres Latinas...Alpha Phi.
High School: A 2010 graduate of Aliso Niguel High School...four-year Scholar Athlete...valedictorian...National Merit Scholar...Superintendent's Honor Roll all four years.
Club/AAU: Team Mercadel.
Personal: Daughter of Anna and Hugo Pena.


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|Home > International Organizations > United Nations
In 1945, representatives of 50 countries met in San Francisco at the United Nations Conference on International Organization to draw up the United Nations Charter. The Organization officially came into existence on 24 October 1945, when the Charter had been ratified by China, France, the Soviet Union, the United Kingdom, the United States and a majority of other signatories. The purposes of the United Nations, as set forth in the Charter, are to maintain international peace and security; to develop friendly relations among nations; to cooperate in solving international economic, social, cultural and humanitarian problems and in promoting respect for human rights and fundamental freedoms; and to be a centre for harmonizing the actions of nations in attaining these ends. There are 192 Member States.
In-depth assistance on researching the United Nations is available in the ASIL Guide to Electronic Resources for International Laws continuously updated chapter on this subject.


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If you think life on earth is stressful, try spending time in space. You must constantly perform high-profile tasks with experts critiquing every move. You don't have your family and friends around to support you. You have unnatural light, zero gravity, strange food, and disrupted sleeping patterns. Astronauts are isolated, fatigued, and STRESSED. How does this affect their health?
Twins and Telomeres
Scientists are working on data from an interesting study that involves identical twin astronauts. Mark and Scott Kelly are the subjects of a NASA study that highlights what happens to someone in space. Mark and Scott, identical twins, were selected as Space Shuttle pilots in 1996. Mark has spent over 54 days in space, but he stayed here on Earth while Scott spent nearly a year (340 days) on the International Space Station. Before Scott left, he and Mark went through a battery of tests that compared their identical genes and DNA so that scientists could see what happens to the human body in space. Besides being two inches taller when he returned, Scott also had an increase in methylation, the process that turns genes on and off. Scientists said that Scott's genes "exploded like fireworks" in space, with thousands of genes turning on and off.
One fascinating preliminary finding is that Scott's telomeres got longer in space, but shortened when he returned—exactly the opposite of what scientists thought would happen. In another interesting twist, after Scott returned to Earth, he and Mark both experienced the same stressful family event—and their telomeres shortened. As discussed in Biohacking the Aging Code: How to Increase Your Healthy Years, scientists think there is a link between telomere length, stress, and aging. Did Scott's telomeres lengthen while he was in space because of his increased exercise and reduced caloric intake? Or is there another reason that being in space affects telomere length? Scientists are still investigating and are hoping to publish final results sometime this year.
Mice and Nrf2
In the meantime, Japanese astronaut Norishige Kanai is spending six months on the International Space Station performing experiments that look into "space stress". He will be comparing two sets of mouse bones—one set that he took into space and one set that will remain on earth. He'll examine how cosmic rays and weightlessness affect the bones that go into space. Kanai will also raise two types of mice on the International Space Station—one group will be bred to have the Nrf2 protein, the other group will not. Kanai and other researchers believe that Nrf2 protein, which provides antioxidant defenses, will reduce the effects of "space stress." When the mice return to Earth, scientists will see if the different types of mice responded to space differently.
Kanai's findings combined with the findings of the twin study will raise some interesting questions. Does Nrf2 create antioxidants that help mice—and potentially humans—deal with stresses that affect telomere length or other types of damage to genes that can occur in space? How can we use this knowledge here on Earth to minimize the damage caused by stressors? Stay tuned to find out!


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Election Law: American Political Process (LAW-680-001)
Louis Caldera
There are no notices at this time.
Examines federal constitutional and statutory law governing the American political process. The purpose of the course is to define the basic constitutional principles of the American democratic system, master the essential rules of federal campaign and election law, and describe different potential theories of democracy as they have emerged in American legal history. Topics include the right to vote, legislative apportionment, the Voting Rights Act of 1965, political party primaries and procedures, ballot access and candidate qualifications, the Voting Rights Act of 1982, campaign finance and campaign speech and their relationship to the First Amendment, political action committees (PACs), political broadcasting, media access, and political patronage.
Textbooks and Other Materials
The textbook information on this page was provided by the instructor. Students should use this information when considering purchases from the AU Campus Store or other vendors. Students may check to determine if books are currently available for purchase online.
First Class Readings
Not available at this time.


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Bowl sites to be chosen for college football playoff
PASADENA, Calif. — The next phase of college football's postseason arrives today.
OK, so there's still one more season of the much-maligned Bowl Championship Series before we arrive, in 2014, at a four-team playoff. But as commissioners of 11 Football Bowl Subdivision conferences and Notre Dame athletic director Jack Swarbrick arrive for another round of meetings Tuesday to Thursday, they're prepared to unveil answers to several questions — including what it will be called and where it will be played.
NEXT?:Will football programs split from NCAA?
But we might have to wait a while longer to learn who will choose the teams and how.
The site of the first championship game could be announced as early as Tuesday. Set for Jan. 11, 2015, it has been considered a lock to be played at Cowboys Stadium in Arlington, Texas. But according to several published reports, Raymond James Stadium in Tampa made a strong bid and had gained consideration. Although the championship game is expected to rotate among several cities, only the first site is expected to be announced this week.
When it comes to the name and logo of the playoff, don't expect it to be flashy. Big 12 Commissioner Bob Bowlsby said last week the aim was for something classic, not corporate. "We want it to be more like the Masters than NASCAR," he said. Do not expect anything like "BCS." That brand, battered by controversy that ultimately led to the current postseason metamorphosis, will be retired after this season's championship game, which will be played Jan. 6, 2014, at the Rose Bowl.
"It will be simple," BCS executive director Bill Hancock said. "It will not be cutesy. And it will be descriptive. I've seen too many people make mistakes by trying to be cutesy."
The Fiesta, Cotton and Chick-fil-A bowls are expected to be named as the three so-called "host" bowls, which will join the "contract" bowls (Rose, Sugar and Orange) as rotating hosts for semifinal games.
The most important issue probably won't be finalized this week. Although the commissioners have spent plenty of time working on the composition of the committee that will select playoff participants and the criteria it will use, it hasn't been settled. There's consensus that each FBS conference will be represented, as well as several "at-large" representatives; the committee could number from 14 to 20. Candidates could include current administrators, but also former college administrators, retired coaches and even retired media members.
"You need people that know the game and understand the game and have experience and wisdom and integrity and respect," ACC Commissioner John Swofford told USA TODAY Sports in February, when the commissioners last met.
The commissioners also have worked to determine what guidelines the committee would use in ranking and choosing participants. Although it is expected to function much like the NCAA basketball committee does in filling out the NCAA tournament bracket, the smaller field (four teams vs. 68) and sample size (12 or 13 games vs. 35) significantly raises the stakes. Commissioners hope to de-emphasize polls and won-loss records and to develop more comprehensive data and reports.
"I know the commissioners are very interested in moving the needle on it," Hancock said. "I'm sure it will get a fair amount of discussion."
The Associated Press contributed to this report.
PHOTOS: What top 25 should look like in 2013


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This was originally published here - where the slew of comments is worth reading.
What is it about Hindi movies and mind-blowing first appearances of matinee idols that mesmerizes us?
Elaborately choreographed opening sequences create a flutter in the stalls, driving the 'first day first show' audiences absolutely wild.
As kids, one heard stories of how hundreds of currency notes and coins were swept off the floor of cinema-houses after full-house openings. A career as a theatre usher seemed, both, mentally and financially rewarding.
Fortunately for me, my mother -- who was a raving film fanatic herself -- initiated me to the magical world of celluloid. She was beside herself with joy, sharing my thrills with child-like enthusiasm.
Quite naturally, my mother recommended my first goose-pimple-inducing intro-scene. On a Sunday -- in the days of solo-channel Doordarshan -- I had finished my homework early to watch the Rajesh Khanna-Sharmila Tagore starrer Aradhana.
After all the tear jerking followed by Khanna's death and Tagore's term in jail, cut to this phenomenal scene of Farida Jalal's boyfriend coming in on an airstrip. As the familiar signature tune of Aradhana reached a crescendo, you have Rajesh Khanna Mark II sauntering in from the horizon in an air force uniform; helmet perched on shoulder.
Sharmila's sentimental turn, me going hooh-haah, my mother wiping tears of joy -- remembering the days of yore in Shillong, where she watched the movie first -- and a raving-screaming-whistling film fan was born!
This first was followed by hundreds of paisa vasool sequences. Each one of which was worth the price of admission by itself.
To name a few:
Amitabh Bachchan zipping down Marine Drive on his motorbike in Muqaddar Ka Sikander.
Aamir Khan turning around in his loose-black-tie-white-shirt-black-waistcoat to tell the world what his Dad used to say in Qayamat Se Qayamat Tak.
The Big B racing across Afghanistan deserts in a deadly game of bouz-kashi in Khuda Gawah.
Ajay Devgan entering the college perched on two motorbikes in Phool Aur Kaante.
Hrithik Roshan coming on a snazzy bike and stopping next to Amisha at a traffic light in Kaho Naa… Pyaar Hai.
Shah Rukh Khan bursting onto a studio from a ceiling made of television screens in Main Hoon Na.
Almost 20 years after the Aradhana experience, I was in a theatre for the first day first show -- February 1, 1991 to be precise -- of the late Mukul Anand's Hum.
During the film, Tiger (Amitabh Bachchan) dives into the screen, latching on to a chain to save his friend Gonsalves (Romesh Sharma). My own leap landed me straight over the seats in front and underneath some screaming fans. The cut on my forehead did not leave a scar, though I still lovingly attribute the injury on my left brow to Amitabh Bachchan's appearance in Hum.
A large part of the cinematic experience for me is the satisfying first appearance of the hero, and in some cases, the heroine.
Very few people have seen a film called Toofan. And even fewer remember it. But the symphonic quality with which AB's appearance is built up in that movie is stuff that legends are made of. I strongly recommend this movie for Bachchan's introduction scene alone.
A cursory examination of the most memorable opening sequences has revealed that fathers have pulled out all stops to make their sons appear in front of the audience through the most snazzy efforts. Be it Aamir Khan's college function, Ajay Devgan's double-bike stunt or Hrithik Roshan's dream debut, fathers have really laid it out for their sons.
Remember how Kumar Gaurav swooped down in a yellow aircraft, much to the hysterical delight of the female audience? What a pity it all went downhill for him after that initial flourish.
In order to lend greater weight to my groundbreaking research on the 'Impact of first appearances on the fate of a film, in particular, and on the zeitgeist of the nation, in general', I am trying to formulate an equation to measure the unforgettable-ness of an intro-scene.
The first cut seems to suggest the impact (I) can be calculated as:
*A = a multiplier of 1 (if the star's past has not been shown) or 2 (if the past has been shown as traumatic)
B = people involved in the build-up sequence
C = time (in minutes) in which the hero is seen in silhouette, mask, parts of body, items of clothing, etc
D = Industry ranking of the star at the time of the movie's release
E = number of weeks that the previous movie of the star has run for or the number of cover stories s/he has got (in case of debutants)
Some would say that in the present times of over-exposure of stars, the charm of the first appearance stands greatly reduced: what with the star visible almost everywhere -- on mobile phone, refrigerator, etc. commercials, NDTV's Night Out, and elsewhere.
Hence, empirical data is being collected to study the effect of one more variable (F) in the equation - where F = number of distinct television appearances, including commercials, made by a star in the month preceding the film's release.
P:S: For all those offended by the complete absence of female stars in the above study, let me quickly recommend Malaika Arora, who filled up the screen with her curvaceous mid-riff as she exhorted the entire nation to go Chaiyya chaiyya (Dil Se..) with her and pioneered the fabled vehicle of the Female First Appearance - The Item Number.


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Note: There is a 12-credit limit on courses taken as a special student that may apply to a UW Oshkosh graduate degree.
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Consult the program coordinator at your home institution to determine which UW Oshkosh courses are acceptable.
Complete a graduate registration form. (Click here to see note about completing the form.)
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A model of the Green Modular Classrooms Team's design.
A collaboration to design a green portable school classroom has received a Civic Engagement Award from Portland State's Center for Academic Excellence. The project won in the category of Excellence in Inter-Departmental / Inter-College Civic Engagement. The recipients are a Portland State team comprised of Oregon Solutions, the Department of Architecture, Institute for Sustainable Solutions, and the Office of Innovation and Intellectual Property.
The team just completed a design for a modular classroom that increases the building's portability, reduces costly sight infrastructure and drastically increases energy efficiency. A first prototype is being built to showcase at the international Greenbuild conference in San Francisco this November, and another is being built for placement at Olympic Elementary School in Chehalis, WA this fall. Community partners donating their time to this project include the American Institute of Architects (AIA), Aumsville-based portable manufacturer Blazer Industries, Portland Public Schools, OMSI and Energy Trust.
U.S. school districts purchase thousands of modular classrooms each year to address overcrowding and fluctuating enrollment. The modular classroom, or portable, is usually designed to be temporary, low-cost solution, resulting in inferior, inefficient, and unhealthy educational environments. And because of the significant investment required for set-up and installation, the buildings often are not very portable at all, instead becoming long-term structures on campuses.
In 2011, at the direction Governor Kitzhaber, Oregon Solutions, in collaboration with Portland State University, the Institute for Sustainable Solutions, AIA Portland, and Blazer Industries, formed the Green Modular Classrooms Team. The group is committed to this issue long term and is now seeking donations of green building materials to construct the prototype.
PSU President Wim Wiewel will open the Civic Engagement Awards Celebration on May 24 at 3 p.m. in the Academic Student and Recreation Center. Outgoing Provost Roy Koch will confer the awards and be honored for his legacy of civic engagement at the campus-wide celebration.


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The recent rise in stocks and talk about green shoots in the markets are optimistic assumptions, as the world downturn "still has a way to run," Hugh Hendry, Chief Investment Officer at Eclectica, told CNBC Tuesday.
World gross domestic product looks overestimated, because global consumption has been based on debt, and this cannot continue, Hendry told "Squawk Box Europe."
"In the last five weeks we had a rally in risk. Big deal," he said.
"I am fearful of the surplus countries, like China and Germany. I think GDP has been overstated," Hendry added.
"My notion was, you had Bernie Madoff doing US GDP accounting." China "built capacity to serve a world that doesn't exist. We're drowning in capacity. The idea to propose we build more… that ain't a remedy," he explained.
Although companies' results beat forecasts, this is mainly because they marked their expectations too low, but their outlook is grim, according to Hendry.
"I believe the downturn in the global economy still has a way to run. We've only been given evidence of further deterioration," he said.
The rise in bond yields shows that the yield curve is flattening, pointing to more economic weakness ahead.
"What it reveals is that it's terrifying. This rise in bond yields shows… the private sector is countering the Fed and is tightening policy," Hendry said.
During the Great Depression, there had been rallies in the stock market, but stocks generally fell, Hendry reminded, explaining his bearish stance on stocks. He added that nobody can predict where the bottom was for the stock market.
"Monkeys spend all their time picking bottoms. I refuse to pick bottoms as I don't live in trees," he said.
- Watch the full interview with Hugh Hendry above.
- Slideshow: What's in the UK Budget


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Q&A with Carl Lostrom
Related Links
LA JOLLA, Calif.-Fresh off a 10th-place finish at the UC Irvine Invitational, cross country's Carl Lostrom continues to be one of UCSD's top finishers each week. As a team, the Tritons finished first of three teams to open the season at home. Last week at UC Irvine, UCSD finished fifth out of 12 teams. The season looks bright for the Tritons as they focus on Conference, Regionals and Nationals. Senior co-captain Lostrom recently took time to discuss the cross country team and life as a student-athlete.
Q- How do you feel about the start of the season for yourself and the team?
LOSTROM- We won our first race, but a better measuring stick may have been last week at the UC Irvine Invitational. We had a tough training week, training through the race an were not too concerned with team finish. In this race we wanted to work on skills and strategies. The race was not as team score oriented as it could have been. I think with a different strategy, we could have finished higher. We were only 10 points behind UCI, which is pretty simple to make up.
Q- What type of strategies are used in races?
LOSTROM- With team scoring, the way you can do damage to other teams is to have your team running close with each other. You run better in groups, especially with the guys you have been training with. The goal is to keep as many guys together as long as you possibly can, without having to slow down for others. Throughout the race, you need to still have that comfortable connection when you are 20 meters behind.
This last week our first four guys finished 35 seconds apart which is decent, but like I said, it was a tough training week so I am sure we could have done better.
Q- What are the team goals this season?
LOSTROM- We have goals race by race, but our season goals are Conference, Regionals and Nationals. Throughout the year, we are more willing to try new strategies and approaches to each race.
At conference, it's usually UCSD,
The season goal is a top-10 finish at Nationals. No Triton team has done that yet and we want to be that first team.
Q- Do you have a favorite track and field event?
LOSTROM- I enjoy the steeplechase, it's a lot of fun with the barriers and water. Every practice I pick-up something new in the learning process.
Q- How did you spend your summer?
LOSTROM- I decided to take a couple of summer school classes because several of my teammates were staying in town. It was great to get some classes out of the way and train for the upcoming season.
Q- Do you know what you would like to do with your Mechanical Engineering major?
LOSTROM- Something that I have always wanted to do is Engineering for Disney. That would be something I'd like down the road. There are plenty of jobs out there that I find interesting when graduation comes.
Q- Do you have a favorite cross country course?
LOSTROM- Once a year we have a meet that we travel to. This year we are going to
Q- How has head coach Ted Van Arsdale helped you?
LOSTROM- He has improved me tremendously since I arrived here. I've taken 20-something seconds off of my mile time. My mile time was decent in high school, but it is so different when a coach can control when you work out, where you work out, what you are eating... it's just so much more involved in college.
I am a senior now, but when I look back on it, it has been four years of Ted's coaching, all piled up. Every race I'll learn something that I pick up for the first time... and then when I think about it, Ted has been telling me that for four years.
Ted is very good and understanding of the program. With training, if you can't do the hill workout, Ted is understanding in that he'll say that's fine, you'll get it in tomorrow. He's very adaptable to forming the workouts around how you feel, not how the top runner feels. I think that helps the teams get better every year and it really shows.
Q- What types of team bonding activities take place?
LOSTROM- Our team goes to Mammoth over the summer for 10 days. We are all together and each day its wake-up, run, eat, sleep and run again... it's ideal training lifestyle. And then of course we go on hikes and the pool.
Q- Do you have any hobbies?
LOSTROM- I like the outdoors. Hiking and backpacking are great. School keeps me pretty busy, but we do lots together as a team, including going to the volleyball and soccer games.
Q- So the team goes to several UCSD sporting events?
LOSTROM- Well, the girls (cross country team) won the spirit contest last year. We are kind of bitter about that so we are going to win it this year.
Q- Who is the funniest member of the team and the smartest?
LOSTROM- The funniest would have to be co-captain Chris (Beetley-Hagler). Chris and myself are the only fourth-year seniors and we have Luke Sigmon who is a fifth-year senior. We all are the team ring-leaders, but the funniest is Chris. It's tough to say who is the smartest on the team. We won the team GPA award last spring. I guess I'd have to say John Yano pulled us the most last year so I will go with him.


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Scarier than the day I ran into a pride of lions on the Okavango. And just as beautiful/
Note: this is the music I was listening to while writing this post. Earlier today, I was looking for something and stumbled upon this video of the highlights of the Global Competitiveness Forum I spoke at in 2011 in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia. My panel was called "The power of Unreasonable People" and I come at around 4:46.
It reminded me of a horribly scary situation I found myself in at the same Forum 2 years prior to the 2011 one. Something happened that could have aborted my speaking career on such prestigious stages.
So what happened? I am very embarrassed by it, but I am one who likes to laugh about and share my misfortunes once the stinging stage has passed.
When I received my invitation and saw the list of speakers, I first thought there was a mistake in my being invited. I mean the list was full of titles like CEO of Airbus, Chairman of Goldman Sachs, CEO of 3M, Former Prime Minister of Canada, Former Prime Minister of Great Britain, and so on and so forth. And then me, Magatte Wade, this very young woman, barely out my 20s, President of a small company, with my name on a list of the Who's Who of world leaders. I remember turning to M and saying "Could they not find a better African token? This is ridiculous!". To which M responded: "I do not think that is what is going on. You need to give yourself more credit. And even if it was, you will show them that you earned your presence there". I liked that!
And then, I learned I was set out to debate Peter Brabeck-Letmathe, the Chairman and former CEO of Nestle, on the importance of Organics. It turns out that the organizer was 100% sold to my commitment and engagement in sustainability.
I remember coming on stage full of confidence. After all, I had nothing but disdain for Nestle and most of their practices. They were one of the reasons I started my first company. I remember how in front of a crowd of several hundred of the world's leading movers and shakers – at one point, in the midst of a passionate debate on organics, I turned and pointed to him saying "I believe in criticizing by creating. You are one of the reasons that I created Adina," a line which pleased the crowd greatly, putting him on the defensive from there on out :). I was doing good until our moderator, Riz Khan (prominent BBC, CNN and Al Jazeera journalist) asked me the question that almost ruined everything. He asked a minute long VERY technical question on water. Water is one of Nestle pet peeves and Brabeck's specialty. M had wanted to prep me on that topic and I brushed it off because I found it too technical. Poor M, he was listening on via Skype through my computer that I set up next to me. He was cringing, but there was nothing he could do for me anymore at that particular moment.
In any case, and as Riz Khan was finally finishing his question, I realized that I had no viable answer for him. I felt a horrible feeling of disappointment growing in me. I had no place in being there in the first place. The fact I had no relevant answer to this question was the proof. Big swollen tears started to form , and as I was getting ready to get up and leave the stage crying, the miracle happened. Brabeck, who had been stung by what I told him earlier, lost all his manners and did not let me answer the question, but instead went into defending himself from my attack of him earlier. Riz Khan tried, as a gentleman, to give me a chance to answer his question, but then the same thing happened again. By then, I just told him :"It is okay, Riz! Let's move on."
And from there on, I just picked up the ball and pulled them all back into my turf, one that I knew I controlled very well, because Organics and sustainability is something I live for and believe in in my core. Brabeck was so mad he blurted out "Organics is just a marketing gimmick!" Wow! Really?!? From the man who had declared that his Chairmanship would be under the sign of "Organic & Fair Trade". He was lucky Twitter was not en vogue yet...
A few years later, the Forum's Director emailed my husband the following:
"You know, the highlight of my 5 years doing this GCF was the year Magatte spoke and just before she went up on stage, on a session in which I had deliberately placed her and the Peter Brabeck-Lethmate, she looked at me and said something like, "Ray, this is real drag. I'm going to liven it up a bit."
That was even scarier than the day I ran into a pride of lions on the Okavango. And just as beautiful.
Sometimes, all you need is luck!


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Researchers have been intrigued by the possibility of quantum computing at least since the early 1980s, going back to the colorful Caltech physicist Richard Feynman's declaration that "nature isn't classical, dammit, and if you want to make a simulation of nature, you'd better make it quantum mechanical."
Quantum materials have a variety of potential uses—in novel sensors or powerful quantum computers, for instance— but they no doubt have uses that we haven't even considered yet.
For all its strangeness—or perhaps because of it—quantum mechanics holds enormous technological promise. Computers built on the unique rules of quantum mechanics have the potential to solve problems that are literally unsolvable on even the most powerful traditional computers. Quantum key distribution seems poised to bolster information security, and materials built on the interactions of quantum particles form the basis of extremely sensitive detectors.
The doughnut-shaped ITER will, for the first time on Earth, create a burning (self-heating) plasma and contain it with a magnetic field. The plasma itself will be heated and sustained primarily by its own fusion reactions—literally the same energy source that powers the sun and the stars.
The next great materials discovery may well come from the exotic interactions of electrons at a scale a million times smaller than a human hair. This is the scale of quantum physics, and it's where ORNL's Huibo Cao focuses his effort.
What does a high school grad do when his family threatens to make him pay rent? For ORNL spectroscopist Ben Doughty, the answer was, go to college.
We ask some of our young researchers why they chose a career in science, what they are working on at ORNL, and where they would like to go with their careers.


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Attend our monthly events and activities and join various interest-based groups to get to know like-minded expatriates and fellow Egyptians in Vienna.
Get trustworthy advice and local insights from fellow Egyptians in our Vienna expat forums.
At InterNations, Egyptians in Vienna can enjoy a platform on which they can share their experiences and tips on living abroad. The historical capital, that grew from the tiny Roman settlement of Vindobona, has a great community of Egyptians that can help you make the most of your expat experience.
The InterNations community in Vienna is also a very lively offline network. Our regular expat events organized by our Ambassadors at the best venues in town are a fantastic way to meet fellow Egyptians in Vienna. The possibilities for interacting offline are sure to satisfy a wide range of tastes, from a hip dining experience in one of Vienna's trendy restaurants to a joint trip to the Bohemian Forest. Our InterNations events and activities are a great way to get to know other Egyptian expats in your city and Egyptians in Austria. Interested? Then simply sign up to become a member and you will soon be warmly welcomed among our Egyptians living in Vienna.


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Moonlight Locations: Sleeping Beauty
Note: This episode is the only one to date that was shot entirely on the studio lot. There's not too much new here.
I will only be listing locations we haven't seen before.
1. Hospital room - Soundstage ?, Warner Bros. Studios, Burbank, CA
2. John Whitley's apartment interior – ?, Warner Bros. Studios, Burbank, CA
This same space was used for the pool room in The Mortal Cure. Through the doorway opening, you can see a wood panel with cutout squares. This was lit from behind in TMC. In the room with the piano, through which the nurse, Mick and Beth enter in a later scene, you can also see the distinctive striped wallpaper of the massage room from TMC. Because not only the wallpaper in both rooms, but also the placement of the doors, the panels and the bookshelves, are identical, I believe that this may be a standing set on the lot -- most likely the interior of one of the houses on Midwest Street. I haven't been able to verify this yet, however.
3. Kostan Industries exterior, street level – Bridge Building, Warner Bros. Studios backlot, Burbank, CA
4. 301 Waverly Place, New York City - Ashley Boulevard, Warner Bros. Studios backlot, Burbank, CA
The rowhouses on Ashley Boulevard are little more than facades. They're actually only about five to six feet in depth – just enough to suggest an entryway. There aren't any rooms inside.
Photo from WB facilities website.
5. Whitley's building exterior – Embassy Building/Courtyard, Warner Bros. Studios backlot, Burbank, CA
The grassy area in the foreground of this photo is actually the park used in the next scene. On the lot, it's immediately across the street from the Embassy building.
6. New York City park – New York Park, Warner Bros. Studios backlot, Burbank, CA
Mick and Beth walked off between the two trees seen at the far edge of the park in this photo.
Photo from WB facilities website.
7. 301 Waverly Place, interior - ?, Warner Bros. Studios, Burbank, CA
Information will be updated and pictures added as they become available.


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Compare Bridgestone S322 and Birla DAZZLER
- Variant Name
- Price (INR)
- Models Supported2 Models Supported1 Model Supported
Cars using S322 145/70 R13 71S Tube
Cars using DAZZLER 145/80 R13 Tube
- HandlingThis feature explains how good this tyre is in term of handling & response.4.1/50/5
- Fuel SavingThis feature explains how much this tyre helps in improving vehicle fuel efficency.4/50/5
- Wet GripThis feature explains performance and control in wet road conditions.4.5/50/5
- Ride ComfortThis feature explains how smooth and comfortable ride this tyre delivers.3.9/50/5
- DurabilityThis feature provides an indication of tyre wear and tyre life4.2/50/5
- Reviews & Rating1 ReviewNo Reviews Available
Reviews for S322 145/70 R13 71S TubeWrite a Review
- By Vishal KotarPosted on 05-03-2015 17:59:164.1
Bridgestone is one among the top tyre making companies in the world that specializes in producing quality tyres. S322 is one among its numerous models that is mainly designed for offering a quiet and comfortable driving experience. It comes with an exceptional braking ability that lets the vehicle stop at shorter distance. It improves the wear resistance and provides maximum grip on both wet and dry road conditions. This tyre has the ability of preventing aquaplaning through its grooves that pumps out water easily.
Reviews for DAZZLER 145/80 R13 TubeWrite a ReviewSpeed Rating (kmph)This indicates the maximum speed ( in kmph ) for the tyre when the vehicle is at full load.180Load Rating (Kg)Which corresponds to maximum weight ( In kilogram) a tyre can carry at full speed.3450Width (mm)145145Aspect Ratio (%)t is the ratio of the sidewall height's to the cross section width.7080Rim Size (Inches)This stands for the diameter of the wheel that the tyre is designed to fit.1313Construction TypeR stands for radial-ply construction. B stands for bias ply.RRWarranty (Year)6 Years4 Years


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Reactions supporting the declaration
Lindsey Graham on Twitter
I stand firmly behind President Trump's decision to use executive powers to build the wall-barriers we desperately need. https://t.co/E2OvdT7pNo
Reactions against the declaration
– " Declaring a national emergency would be a lawless act, a gross abuse of the power of the presidency and a desperate attempt to distract from the fact that President Trump broke his core promise to have Mexico pay for his wall. It is yet another demonstration of President Trump's naked contempt for the rule of law. This is not an emergency, and the president's fearmongering doesn't make it one. He couldn't convince Mexico, the American people or their elected representatives to pay for his ineffective and expensive wall, so now he's trying an end-run around Congress in a desperate attempt to put taxpayers on the hook for it. The Congress will defend our constitutional authorities."
– House Speaker Nancy Pelosi and Senate Minority Leader Chuck Schumer in a joint statement, (February 14, 2019)
– "What the president is attempting is an unconstitutional power grab"
– U.S. Representative Joaquin Castro of Texas (February 22, 2019)
Legal cases
– 16 states have launched legal action against the use of national emergency powers, stating the use is "unconstitutional and unlawful."


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lipase test measures the amount of this
enzyme in a blood sample. High amounts of lipase may
be found in the blood when the
pancreas is damaged or when the tube leading from the
pancreas (pancreatic duct) to the beginning of the small intestine is
A lipase test is done to:
Do not eat or drink anything except
water for 8 to 12 hours before having a lipase test.
Talk to your
doctor about any concerns you have regarding the need for the test, its risks,
how it will be done, or what the results will mean. To help you understand the
importance of this test, fill out the
medical test information form(What is a PDF document?).
The health professional taking a sample
of your blood will:
The blood sample is taken from a vein in
your arm. An elastic band is wrapped around your upper arm. It may feel tight.
You may feel nothing at all from the needle, or you may feel a quick sting or
There is very little chance of a problem from
having a blood sample taken from a vein.
lipase test measures the amount of this
enzyme in a blood sample. Results are normally
available within 12 hours.
The normal values listed here—called a reference range—are just a guide. These ranges vary from lab to lab, and your lab may have a different range for what's normal. Your lab report should contain the range your lab uses. Also, your doctor will evaluate your results based on your health and other factors. This means that a value that falls outside the normal values listed here may still be normal for you or your lab.
units per liter (U/L) or 0.17–2.3 microkats/liter
18–180 units per liter (U/L) or 0.30–3.0
A high lipase level may be caused
Reasons you may not be able to
have the test or why the results may not be helpful include:
CitationsFischbach FT, Dunning MB III, eds. (2009). Manual of Laboratory and Diagnostic Tests, 8th ed. Philadelphia: Lippincott Williams and Wilkins.Other Works ConsultedChernecky CC, Berger BJ (2008). Laboratory Tests and Diagnostic Procedures, 5th ed. St. Louis: Saunders.Fischbach FT, Dunning MB III, eds. (2009). Manual of Laboratory and Diagnostic Tests, 8th ed. Philadelphia: Lippincott Williams and Wilkins.Pagana KD, Pagana TJ (2010). Mosby's Manual of Diagnostic and Laboratory Tests, 4th ed. St. Louis: Mosby Elsevier.
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Medical Review:
E. Gregory Thompson, MD - Internal Medicine & Jerome B. Simon, MD, FRCPC, FACP - Gastroenterology
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6 Social Media Mistakes Businesses Should Avoid
Social media allows companies to reach consumers in a way most never dreamed possible. The problem is that many jump right into the arena without much strategy.
Pretty much all the experts agree that step one should be to create a long-term proposal for social media that includes the goals you'd like to achieve. "Without a clear plan of execution -- which social outlets, what type of content, what is the tone, what message do we want to send to customers, etc. -- it is easy for social to be executed poorly and thus discounted as an ineffective medium," writes Michelle Brammer, marketing and PR manager for the online advertising company eZanga.com, in an e-mail.
And there are many other mistakes you're probably making too. But don't beat yourself up. Social media marketing is new to everyone, so most are in the same boat. Recently, several experts responded to an e-mail questionnaire about the common blunders companies make when participating in social media. Here's a list of six errors they would like you to stop committing right now:
1. You reach the wrong people.
Snagging thousands of followers is always a good thing, right? Not exactly. If most of them are other marketers or spammers, and not people who are actually going to use your service or product, then it doesn't matter how many followers you have. "Companies sometimes jump on the social media bandwagon without a clear strategy, and focus too much on growing their audience (e.g., number of followers) without ensuring that they are reaching the right people in the right way," writes Olivier Toubia, Glaubinger professor of business at Columbia Business School.
Instead, you should profile your target audience and collect as much data as possible (and that's a lot, thanks to social media) on the customers engaging with you on these platforms, adds Toubia. Manually check on a few accounts to make sure these are real people and not bots, and pay attention to the people with whom you are connecting, he adds. "If you are an industrial B2B company," writes Toubia, "and realize that most of your Twitter followers are also following Justin Bieber, then maybe you have a problem."
2. You're acting as though it's the Wild West.
Businesses thrive when there is structure, but sometimes it's more like utter anarchy online. "Not only must businesses understand why they want to use social media, they need to manage this powerful tool effectively," writes Mike Lesczinski, a faculty instructor at Excelsior College School of Business and Technology. "This includes setting up a governance policy that empowers and protects both the brand and the employees." In other words, the marketing team has to set some rules and create procedures for participating on social media. You don't want employees to broadcast their biased opinions and pass them off as the company's on your Facebook page, for example. So, make sure no one has the chance to do that by setting standards for everything from how many times to comment per day to how to respond to an angry customer.
3. You're misguided about whom to put in charge.
Lots of people are really great at "liking" their aunt's posts about the holiday dinner she made or their college friends' zillionth new baby shot, but that doesn't mean they will be good online representatives for your business. "If you don't have someone on staff who is trained to post engaging content (photos, videos, relevant posts) regularly -- I always recommend a daily minimum -- invest in training someone internally or outsource your social media management," writes Sam Parker, director of marketing at Commuter Advertising and an award-winning social media expert. "There are expert, qualified firms ready to translate your communication strategies into multiple social platforms." Just be sure to do your homework about the firms, warns Parker, because she adds, "not all social media management firms are created equally."
4. You're mucking up #hashtags.
Incorrectly using hashtags for keywords you're pushing or misguidedly jumping on a hashtag trend are two mistakes that can be damaging for a business, writes Jonathan Goodman, president of Halyard Consulting. He suggests using hashtags.org to research words already being used by your audience. Then, he says to dig a little deeper. Find out exactly what conversations these hashtags are popping up in. "The last thing you want to do," warns Goodman, "is advertise your product around a negative hashtag."
5. You're not properly investing in social media.
Companies often mistakenly pay firms that say they can guarantee a certain number of fans or followers, only to discover the whole thing is a scam and most of the accounts are fakes. Another mistake is to invest a lot of money in pumping up your social media presence while ignoring key demographic groups, writes Joseph J. Sherman, dean of Israel Business School in Jerusalem, Israel. "Women are a massive shopping and online traffic base, and yet most advertising agencies fail to hire a significant number of women," writes Sherman. "With ads shifting to social media, there is a massive potential for companies that are relevant to women."
6. You're acting like a used car salesperson.
Social media is not the place to openly and constantly pitch product. Besides, you're probably not going to make billions of dollars on Twitter or Facebook. "Social media is a two-way conversation, and your return is the relationships that you build, which you can then turn into leads if your goal is sales," writes Donna Vieira, vice president of marketing at Grow Socially. "Don't be salesy. Be conversational, and engage others often. Focus on value, education, and share-worthy content if you want to be socially successful." Basically, hang up your suit and tie and remember what it was like to be a regular Joe or Josephine. Being human is probably the best way to make a sale online or off.


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http://www.blogtalkradio.com/misclmcrad ... part-three
Part THREE of our ongoing discussion of Astral Powers.
For each of the five senses there is an Astral Sense, which was well-known, and often much-feared, to ancient people. The old Wonder-Workers were capable of astonishing feats of power.
Let's discuss some of these powers and abilities and how to develop them. We'll also discuss Crystal gazing!
Reverend Jon Saint Germain, pastor of Divine Harmony Spiritual Church in Knoxville, Tennessee, is the Voice of the Crystal Silence League and author of CRYSTAL MAGIC: DIVINATION, HEALING AND SPELLCRAFT WITH GEMS AND MINERALS, providing Spiritual guidance on the practical use of crystals and crystal balls in the development of mental concentration and mind power, silent influence over others, divination and scrying of the future, and telepathic contact with people and spirits.
Call in to speak with the host (657) 383-0525
Tonight's Crystal is Apophyllite.
Crystal Silence League Hour #113:The Astral Power Part Three
Every Tuesday, Rev. Jon Saint Germain provides guidance on the development of mental concentration, silent influence, divination, and telepathic contact with people and spirits.
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Crystal Silence League Hour #113:The Astral Power Part Three
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text:
May 8, 2009
WILLIAMSTOWN, MA-The first appearance for the University of Massachusetts Dartmouth's men's tennis team in the NCAA Division III Tournament was an artistic success. The Corsairs defeated Neumann, 5-2, in their first round match at the Torrence M. Hunt Tournament Courts at Williams Friday.
The Corsairs took the lead by winning two of the three doubles matches, taking a 2-1 lead when sophomore Mason Viau (Marion, MA/Bishop Hendricken HS/Connecticut) and senior Christoph Forster (Reading, MA/Reading HS) erased a 6-5 deficit to defeat Chris Brown and Dan Harnos at number two doubles, 8-6. Freshmen Troy Pandolfi (Danbury, CT/Danbury HS) and Karsten Rathlev (Winchester, MA/Winchester HS) put UMD on top when they defeated Dave Pfister and Brian Crispin at number one doubles, 8-3. Greg Bridgeman and Steve Klenk evened the score for the Knights when they downed junior Ken Sims (Chelmsford, MA/Chelmsford HS) and freshman Brian Lui (Medfield, MA/Medfield HS), 8-2.
Rathlev then defeated Crispin at number three singles, 6-0, 6-1, and Viau came from a 4-1 deficit in the first set to down Pfister, 6-4, 6-1 at number one. Bridgeman made it 4-2 when he defeated freshman Zach Engstrom (Taunton, MA/Taunton HS) at number four singles, 7-5, 6-4, but Forster clinched the match for the Corsairs when he downed Klenk at number six , 6-3, 7-6, winning the tie-breaker by a 7-5 count.
"We played super, and Neumann was a tough opponent, the match was a lot closer than the score indicated," said UMass Dartmouth Head Coach Tom Mendell. "Mason and Chris Forster came from behind in their doubles match, and that was a big point. Karsten was fantastic in both doubles and singles, Mason came from behind in his match, and Chris Forster won his match in a tie-breaker, and that was the fifth point and clinched it for us. Ken Sims and Troy Pandolfi were ahead in their matches as well. Our team just worked their tails off, and I couldn't be more pleased."
The Corsairs became the second Little East Conference team to win a first round match in the three seasons that the LEC has had an automatic berth in the NCAAs. Southern Maine won their first round match against Ithaca two years ago.
UMass Dartmouth improved to 13-1 with the victory, while Neumann dropped to 17-4 with the defeat. The Corsairs will face the seventh-ranked Williams, the host team, Saturday at 2:00 p.m, with the championship match scheduled for Sunday at 3:00 p.m.
"We have our work cut out for us against Williams, but you never know," said Mendell. "You have to expect the unexpected." UMASS DARTMOUTH TENNIS


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Quote: Stuart A I offer an example Here is what I mean by many Olympic competitors already had the training plus these incredible other skills, Olympic training. This man was the Korean national champ between 1965 and 1968 and a U.S. combative instructor for 18 years. He was a combative instructor befor he was champ. He did not just train for competition like soooo many others do not just train for competition. The competition is only one component of training.http://www.kilstkdonline.com/grandmaster1.html
Quote:How is TKD loosing popularity? Like over half the world does it. People say it sucks because of other people who make it look bad. Mcdojo's such as the ATA who do it just for the money instead of actual teaching. ... I can't tell you guys how damn tired and sick I am of mofo's bashing on other martial arts instead of repsecting it for what it is. You don't like because it doesn't fit your style? Who cares, doesn't mean you bash it.
Quote:Similarly the ATA founder was an instructor for Korean military intelligence officers and went forth from there. http://www.ataonline.com/about/history.asp
Quote:Sir, how come the ATA makes no mention of the 1st president of their group, GM Kang Suh Chong?He was also an instructor in the military intel div, under Gen. Choi. he also founded his own Kwan, was later VP of the ITF & of course GM lee's senior.Have you heard of him?
Quote:1- I have not heard of him and am not nearly as well versed in the history or the people associated with that time period as I could be.2- I seem to recall earlier published ATA histories discussing the early days more and expect that this is a case of only presenting what is relevant to the organization.3- While the history is fascinating and I agree that many people did not get credit for their contributions, the acrimony between groups and federations needs to end. Concessions are needed on all sides for that to happen.
Quote:1- I find that sad that you have not heard of this great figure in TKD's history. What makes it sader is that he was the 1st president of your Federation. In fact, he was for several years. How can they not list him as such? I think most, if not all groups, be it Countries, sports groups, associations, fraternal groups etc, at least list the previous presidents. Couple that with the fact that your group lists GM Lee as an "Eternal GM", I am left to wonder.......
Quote:2- How is history not relevant to a group? Especially the history of THE group!
Quote:3- ... I know many left as it was easier & better for them to issue their own certs & teach their own way. Nothing wrong with that, cutting out the middle man, or becoming your own top man. Good for business & many businesses follow this model. TKD after all, in many senses is a business. Escaping a pyramid scheme & establishing your own, is a sound practice.
Quote: ... However, I am not talking about the ATA's withdrawal from the ITF. They were after all an early NGB like group affiliated to the ITF.I am merely talking about a great & important pioneer of TKD, GM Kang Suh Chong. He was the 1st president of the ATA. He was serving in said capacity for several years. I find it confusing that memebrs of the ATA do not know this fact & somewhat disappointing that he is not credited with this fact, especially when any Korean Master or GM that knows him, holds him in high regard. Remember, when we talk about Mr. Choi, many people will have strong negative feelings towards him. However, I have never heard of any negative talk of GM Kang. Would you be able to, or would you be feel comfortable in making an inquiry as a member of your group as to why this is the case?
Quote: You can feel free to PM me, if you feel that is a more approriate response.Thanks
Quote:as an ATA school owner that has kept a school open through enormous personal financial losses for my students' benefit and my commitment to their well-being, I personally take unbounded offense that you suggest I (or any of the other owners that I know) are just in it for the money.
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