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Tampering with lower offs at Skoorsteenkop
Let everyone know about any suspect/dodgy/misplaced bolts to be renewed or avoided.
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21 posts • Page 1 of 1
Tampering with lower offs at Skoorsteenkop
Somebody tampered with the lower-off system I installed on my new route at Skoorsteenkop (\"kids day out\"). The system was set up in a staggered configaration with the top anchor being a 8mm snap link (galvanised industrial type) attached to a hanger and the lower, a 6mm mailon quick link (also attached to a hanger). Somebody replaced the snap link and quick link with D shackles. The snap link has a breaking strength of a ton when closed and 400kg when open. The quick link is even stronger. These stats were obtained from tests specfically done at RAU. The shackles that these were replaced with are weaker and are in my view are dangerous (rope running over the straight gate and thereby loosening the gate with disastrous consequences). Would the person who replaced the above system explain his reasons for doing so. I would also like the stats for the D shackles he installed and an explanation as to why his system was superior and why my system required replacing. ps the 6mm quick link, although more than adequate, was meant to be a temporary installation as I had forgotten to bring another snap link to the crag.
Firstly any tampering with fixed gear is completely uncool, removing (stealing) good gear and leaving junk behind is bordering on criminal and if anyone is hurt as a result you will be held criminally responsible! (Read jail time.) However Paddy the system you installed is not an acceptable top anchor. As strong as the units you describe are, they were not designed for climbing and should not be used. 6mm is far too thin a radius for optimum safety with climbing ropes, in addition this thin diameter will wear through very quickly with the friction of lowering. Please in future only use anchors manufactured by a recognised manufacturer of climbing equipment. The rings made by Faders or Hanger chain combinations from Sky are very reasonably priced (cheaper than a maillon / hanger combination) and will wear far better. We are trying to standardise anchors in the Cape to avoid any more close calls (or worse!)
Grigri. You obviously did not read my notice in full and you have diverted attention from the issue. As I have said the 6 mm was temporary. As regards your comment on stress on the rope, the anchor to which the 6 mm was attached was placed in such a way that the 6mm quick link functioned as a back up. The prime lower off was of an 8 mm snap link, that I had specifically tested at RAU's engineering department. These snap links are bomber (see my earlier comments for these stats + I have the results available for perusal). Based on these results I have absolutely no problem placing these as lower off. Also there is a significant advantage over the fader system. The rings on the fader system are not stainless steel and thus rust fairly quickly at our coastal crags (see the lower offs on the route to the left of kids day out). While snap links are also not stainless, they are easy to replace whereas the faders rings cannot be replaced without replacing the whole hanger system. My intention is to continue using these snap links with the only difference being that I will use 10 mm snap links - I hear your comment about rope wear on the link on lowering off.
Paddy firstly I applaud the fact that you are out there developing routes, congrats on joining the ranks of ou's carrying f-ing heavy packs and actually contributing something to the sport! The 6mm as a back up isnt great, most rope manufacturers recommend 8mm as an absolute minimum and 10-12mm as preferable. If your top anchor fails the scimpy 6mm link will be shock loaded almost certainly causing your rope undue stress. 8mm as the top (primary) lower off is also too thin, not from a strength point of view but because the thinner diameter places more stress on the rope and will wear through much quicker than the fat faders rings (If you dont like faders Sky (local is lekker!)make a hanger chain combo that is even cheaper than faders). Lastly, and possibly most importantly, If you use hardware that is not from a recognised manufacturer of climbing equipment and it fails hurting someone, you will be held responsible and will probably face criminal charges, the park may also be implicated in this instance for allowing sub-standard hardware to be installed on their land. A situation none of us want. If however the equipment was proper climbing equipment and it fails (having been installed properly)then the fault lies solely with the manufacturer and you and the park are let off the hook. I know at the moment its just me calling for standardisation of hardware, but you can expect this to become the norm in the near future. Then some poor bugger (like me) will have to spend his VCT (valuable climbing time) going to replace all of your anchors to bring them up to scratch. Please save us the mission and avoid putting yourself and the park at the risk of liability suites. The anchors you are at present using look fine on a spec sheet but as you can see they are not adequate for more than one reason. Please!! guys use only HILTI bolts and proper climbing anchors in future.
Youre right Paddy me lad I skim read youre post! Ive been on such a mission about bolts since the snapping bolt incident that I have simply leapt at any opportunity to bang my drum.Apologies for hijacking youre post! Stealing others gear is a nasty thing to do especially when a dangerous situation is created as a result. Snaplinks have been used in the past, Stainless ones are available from Yachting stores but cost a bomb. Ive seen snaplinks on a hanger linked to a higher back up hanger with chain. Awesome system as you dont have to untie just clip in and lower. drawbacks are the expense and that the gate on the link needs to be lubricated with rope-friendly stuff to keep it from siezing with time.
On another related topic. Just got further word about industrial snap links. Although bomber when in functioning order, they do have a problem in that the steel used in the gate spring is apparently highly susceptable to corrosion. Result is eventual snapping of the spring with the gate becoming useless. Holding strength then drops to 400kgs and the rope can also easily pop out (I would think). While one can then easily replace the gate at this point it would be unfortunate if it happened while somebody is lowering off or top roping off the link. I am therefore not going to be using these snap links unless I get confirmation that the spring is not a problem.
Your top anchor solution does not sound that bad Paddy. I have done worse for sure. In defence of Upat bolts: thousands have been used in the Cape and only one that we know of has failed. And in the diagram discription of what occured with this bolt it is clear that the placing may have been suspect or the rock a bit dodge. Climbing is dangerous. We will never eliminate all the risks.
Correction Derek several have failed, we just havent been told about it! This I have on very good authority from the guys that keep an eye on these things. Please, please people dont use these bolts, Im not saying they are death traps but their design and construction leaves a lot to be desired, and it is all to easy to place them badly. In addition they are the devil to remove. When you bolt a route you are responsible for the lives and limbs of every single climber who follows you up there (harsh I know but think about it for a bit), many of whom will not have the experience or sus to spot potential faults in the equipment, you owe it to yourself and them to use the best quality hardware, especially as it doesnt cost any more! On the topic of Snap link / Carabiner lower offs Ive seen industrial and Yachting links with wiregates (as found on most modern biners). These might well be worth checking out as the wire gate should be virtually hassle and maintenance free. This system has been used for ages at crags such as Malham cove in England, and over the years I have seen various companies advertising them. They fell out of favour for exactly the reason Paddy pointed out, the gate either seized up or ceased to function due to corrosion. This would be deadly in a toprope situation where forces regularly reach 400kg and higher (Always toprope off draws connected directly to the hangers!). If the wire gate solves this then these anchors would be the hot ticket for highway routes at very busy crags as they greatly reduce the amount of time taken to clean a route.
grigri, i disagree with your comment that the bolter is responsible for every person on his route. climbing comes with a big \"CLIMB AT OUR OWN RISK\" with too many variables to be able to blame the bolter as well. one must be aware of the dangers but I feel it wrong to place such a responsibilty, or even to imply it. Perhaps you feel 'in charge' of the bolting situation here, but, you're not, and I agree with Derek that I've placed many UPAT's and they're fine. stop trying to turn the sport into a tennis club dude. IT'S @ YOUR OWN RISK---ALWAYS.
paddy, ALL bolts are prone to SCC. It depends entirely on the condition of the rock and the climate. I agree that Hilti's are best suited to most conditions, however, since I have NOT read any scientific report with actual tests and comparisons being performed, under CONTROLLED conditions, by an official registered body, I'm afraid that we ALL are feeling around in the dark. Perhaps the MCSA needs to conduct such tests and then issue a formal brief as to which hardware is best suited. Perhaps we need to stop using machine made hardware store chain ontop of our routes too, as clearly this chain has very little lateral strength. I have read all the specs issued by UPAT and on those specs I used there bolts. A double collared bolt will have more holding power compared to a single collared bolt [hilti] especially if used in roof situations and in softer rock. As for you trying to bring \"morally culpability\" into the equation, perhaps you should stop using 'un-rated' untested and unsafe hardware tat on YOUR routes. I only place 90mm bolts and only use RATED ring anchors on my routes. Quite frankly, until some official tests have been conducted, I feel it unfair to just boycot UPAT like this when one bolt fails. What the hell are you guys placing expansions for in quartsitic sandstone within 2 km of the ocean anyway. ALL the crags should be glue ins. Thats what we did at Harrismith. It's all glue ins and they're safe. It may be more effort, but it's worth it. Just remember, you climb at your OWN risk.
Dude anyone who calls hinself 'Sir' bob obviously has an inferior superiority complex! I definitely dont imagine that I am 'in charge' of bolting in Cape Town, but if I was then perhaps there wouldnt be so many f-k ups! (You see now thats a superior superiority complex!). The MCSA has already issued an official request for people to stop using UPATS, read the posts from Brent, he chairs the Sport Climbing committee. The reasons for using HILTI are many and have been discussed in some detail in this thread and others. Perhaps you should take the time to read them before jumping in with your comments? Spec sheets do not reflect the reality of use in real life situations so dont base your opinions on them. Plans for further tests are in the pipeline. In addition there is evidence to suggest that twin sleeve anchors place exessive loads on the walls of the hole due to interference between the centers of stress created by the sleeves. Basically all I am trying to drive across is that people should equip routes in a responsible manner and use equipment designed for the purpose. The request to use HILTI's (issued by the MCSA) is pertinent to Coastal areas and Cape Town in particular. Comparing bolts Cape sandstone at the coast to those placed at Harrismith is just stupid! If you wish to use UPATS inland they are probably alright, as I stated in a previous post UPATS we placed 10years ago inland are fine showing no sign of corrosion. A point you would be aware of if you had bothered to read any of this! And by the way I hate tennis!
Greg, firstly,just to correct your english, it's an 'inferiority complex', and NO, I don't have one, but your attack on me is expected. I would argue that spec. sheets DO reflect real life usage as they are written for REAL LIFE users and have been tested scientifically for this purpose. I would like to see your evidence regarding the twin sleeve anchors please. Another joke is your statement \"Basically all I am trying to drive across is that people should equip routes in a responsible manner and use equipment designed for the purpose\". NO expansion bolt from UPAT or HILTI is purpose designed for rock climbing anchors. They are industrial anchors designed for holding sustained loads in concrete. The only purpose designed anchors are those made by Petzl and Fixe. Another note is that I looked at the picture of the Silvermine bolt and it is clearly rusted, perhaps caused by SCC, but without correct forensic research we do not know if it was not just incorrectly installed. I actually have been reading most of your bolting posts but I really feel that you are less than qualified to be dishing out facts like this. Let's see some scientific, metalurgical tests done, with controlled research and then let's talk. Please post a URL for that 'evidence' of twin sleeve anchors. As for my tennis comment, it was metaphoric, basically saying that people should be careful of trying to control things all the time. Sure, let's have regulations, but then let's do it properly.
Sir Bob you obviously know your stuff. What with the latest failure I thought I would read up on the stuff. Maybe you could help me as I am now confused. I understand that UPat bolts come in ss304 and ss316 grade stainless steel. Per the bolting article in SA Mountain Mag no 9, the latter shows significant resistance to pitting corrosion. Are you still happy to use both grades and if not how do you know you've purchased the higher grade bolt? Also pointed out in that article is that UPat bolts, being lathe cut, have minute surface cracks which act as crack iniators (forgive me Tony for the blatant plagirism) wheras Hilti bolts being rolled bolts, have compressive stresses that prevent crack iniating. Are you still happy to use UPat's? Also UPats use a double jacket system, with each jacket being narrow whereas Hilti use one broad jacket. Hilti, or at least their representative did, argued that a single broader jacket is better as it has a broader surface area to grab onto the rock (and is thus more likely to grab) and furthermore spreads this load over a broader area, whereas the narrow double jacket system, could result in the bolt being held by only one narrow jacket if the other does not grab onto the rock. Are you still happy to use UPat?
Dear Bob (and anyone else still awake, oh Bobs bored already [imagine how I feel][Bob try using a more subtle tone next time so people dont lose their cool, you'll get a better response]) my points are simply:- USE DECENT HARDWARE. We all know stud anchors are designed for concrete fixtures not rock climbing, but thats no excuse to use anchors that have been shown to be more prone to failure in costal conditions. The MCSA has called for end to the use of UPATs lets follow their lead. In addition lets see an end to the use of hardware store shackles, chains and other junk. There are excellent climbing fixtures on the market at reasonable prices, lets just use those and quit trying to invent systems of our own. BOLT RESPONSIBLY. I knew my comment about being responsible for all climbers repeating your routes would be contentious, but consider this: Many, many people will repeat your creations. You may think further bolts are unnecessary on stretches of rock you find easy but others may need the protection. How many thousands of rands were spent air lifting the foreign visitors off 'Sands of time' this weekend? All because the developer did not want to spend an extra hundred protecting it better! Even experienced guides have ground to a halt on that last pitch. Recently a friend of my mine had a nasty fall on another route, thankfully all that was seriously damaged was her confidence but it has set her game back dramatically. We all want to enjoy this amazing sport, you might find bad gear, poor placements and dangerous runouts entertaining but they scare the living crap out of everyone else! (Anyway nuff sed on my part as Im sure everyone is as bored by the sound of my voice as I am) Happy climbing for all!!
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Outdoor Track & Field Athlete of the Week - No. 6
By Chad Waller, Director of Communications and Sports Information
KANSAS CITY, Mo. – Katie Bonnema of Dordt (Iowa) has been named NAIA National Women's Outdoor Track Athlete of the Week and Gabriella Dixson has been tabbed as the National Women's Outdoor Field Athlete of the Week, the national office announced Wednesday. Bonnema and Dixson were selected based on their performances from April 15 – 21.
Bonnema, a junior from Ireton, Iowa, posted a championship-qualifying time in the 400-meters at the Doane (Neb.) Relays April 20. Her clocking of 56.05 was good for first at the event and set a new Doane Relays record. That mark is currently fifth on the NAIA season list. Bonnema (photo, top right, courtesy of Mike Brynes) also ran a :56 split while anchoring the 4x400-meter relay team to a second-place time of 3:58.24.
Dixson, a senior from Battle Ground, Wash., defeated numerous NCAA Division I athletes in the shot put at the Long Beach State (Calif.) Invitational April 20. She finished first overall among 65 other throwers with a heave of 15.31 meters (50-2 ¾). The addition bettered Dixson's previous season best of 49-7 3/4 and sets her apart as the lone NAIA thrower over 50 feet in the discipline. She stands No. 1 in that event in the NAIA. The next closest NAIA competitor trails her mark by over 15 inches. Dixson also was third at the Mt. SAC (Calif.) Relays April 19 with a toss of 15.30 (50-2 ½).
The final women's outdoor track and field Athlete of the Week will be announced May 1. For the complete Athlete of the Week calendar, click here.
Track Nominees: Danielle Hoop, Cumberlands (Ky.); Aspen Frey, McPherson (Kan.); Aspen Marical, Oklahoma Baptist; Treasurie Hatten, Wiley (Texas); Bailey Hughes, Carroll (Mont.); Cecilee Russell, Corban (Ore.); Brianna Cecil, Berea (Ky.); Layne Callow, Berea (Ky.); Sarah Tortorich, Loyola (La.); Nicole Wager, St. Ambrose (Iowa); Devinn Rolland, Xavier (La.); Joy Spear Chief-Morris, British Columbia; Courtney Henderson , William Woods (Mo.); Breanna Mathes, Morningside (Iowa); Kristen Harris, Tabor (Kan.); Taylor Lucero, Great Falls (Mont.); Cecilia Burley, Friends (Kan.); Britta Patterson, Aquinas (Mich.); Mackenzie Holladay, Mount Mercy (Iowa); Tayler Godar, Georgetown (Ky.); Halle Richards, Shawnee State (Ohio); Meagan Wright, Milligan (Tenn.); Erin Price, Taylor (Ind.); Raechel Brown, Oklahoma City; Whiteny Dooley, Midland (Neb.); Christine Sheppard, Southwestern (Kan.); Megan Rosa, Baker (Kan.); Shelby Garrigus, Central Methodist (Mo.); Alexis Davis, Olivet Nazarene (Ill.); Hillary Holt, College of Idaho; Lexis Lange, College of Idaho; Jessica Stockton, Bryan (Tenn.); Natasha Gay, Wayland Baptist (Texas); Christina Sandberg, Indiana Wesleyan; Christi Avery, Warner Pacific (Ore.); Kristen Garwood, Hannibal-LaGrange (Mo.); Jameka Matchingtouch, Bethel (Tenn.); Jewel Thomas, Indiana Tech; Irene Olivo, Eastern Oregon; Mikel Elliott, Concordia (Ore.); Karis Frankian, The Master's (Calif.).
Field Nominees: Sara Meadors, Cumberlands (Ky.); Megan Pohlmann, McPherson (Kan.); Erinn Shaughnessey, Oklahoma Baptist; Kaytlyn Coleman, Lewis-Clark State (Idaho); Jenna Higgins, Mount Mercy (Iowa); Latecia Howell, Carroll (Mont.); Eliya Kohl, Corban (Ore.); Elizabeth King, Concordia (Neb.); Val Veiock, Grand View (Iowa); Emily Post, Tabor (Kan.); Lindsey Karpowicz, Aquinas (Mich.); Haley Cox, Milligan (Tenn.); Bailey Soucie, Nebraska Wesleyan; Karen Liekhus, Midland (Neb.); Courtney Samuido, Trinity Christian (Ill.); Daneka Brown, Missouri Valley; Stephanie Nelson, Baker (Kan.); Caitlin McPherson, Olivet Nazarene (Ill.); Paige Smith, Indiana Wesleyan; Paige Smith, Indiana Wesleyan; Jillian Ourada, Doane (Neb.); Janelle Durrough, Wayland Baptist (Texas); Kassi Conditt, Oregon Tech; Jeslyn Zimmerly, Indiana Tech; Brooke Randall, Eastern Oregon; Katie Hartney, Lindsey Wilson (Ky.).
2013 Women's Outdoor Track & Field Athletes of the Week (Field, Track)
Week 1 (March 20): Reta Woodard, Embry-Riddle (Fla.); Adella King, Indiana Tech
Week 2 (March 27): Kassi Conditt, Oregon Tech; Zahri Jackson, Xavier (La.)
Week 3 (April 3): Evan Shimanek, Oklahoma Baptist; Hillary Holt, College of Idaho
Week 4 (April 10): Emily Post, Tabor (Kan.); Stacy Warrior, Oklahoma Baptist
Week 5 (April 17): Akela Jones, Oklahoma Baptist; Katrina Nolan, Oklahoma City
Week 6 (April 24): Gabriella Dixson, Concordia (Ore.); Katie Bonnema, Dordt (Iowa)


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Do the math. You can buy a ready-made tiny house—I found estimates online ranging from $40,000 to $60,000—or you can purchase plans on the Internet to build your very own tiny house, usually for under $25,000. If you can forage building materials, you could do it for even less.
When we talk about tiny houses, generally we mean those with a floor plan of just a few hundred square feet, up to a maximum of 800 square feet. Compare this to a typical American house that covers 2,500 square feet. You can see why the tiny house costs a lot less. You can also see how living in a tiny house forces its occupant to live a smaller lifestyle.
The movement is about 15 years old. Wikipedia gives credit to Sarah Susanka, author of "Not So Big House," published in 1998, for helping launch the small house philosophy. It is all about people choosing not only to downsize their living space, but also to simplify their lives in general—no big mortgage, no big energy bill, no big house to clean, no place to acquire and store so much stuff. You get the point. The movement drew people with a social and an environmental conscience and those who wanted to embrace the values of minimalism and simplicity in their lives.
Tiny house designer Jay Shafer, who himself lives in a tiny house (he says that one of the smallest he's ever lived in was just 89 square feet), observes that the hardest thing is the downsizing—deciding what you need and want to keep when you move from your big house into your tiny house. Once you've moved in, everything gets much simpler, he says. As he sees it, "There's freedom in living small."
Some tiny houses are built on a permanent foundation, while others are on wheels for ease of picking up and traveling. Tiny houses have a kitchen, a bathroom, a bedroom and a main area for sitting and hanging out. Most have room for a small washer/dryer combo. Some have a front porch. Commercially available tiny houses are generally very attractive, designed and built by professional architects.
One of the biggest commercial firms is Tumbleweed Tiny House Company. Each house shown on the Tumbleweed website (they have 17 different models) shows multiple photographs—inside and out—plus a floor plan. Tumbleweed's smallest tiny house—it fits on a trailer—measures 11 x 7 feet, with a living space of 73 square feet; their largest offering on a travel trailer is 172 square feet. Tumbleweed's permanent, stationary homes (they call them cottages) start at 261 square feet and go up to a two-story, three-bedroom tiny cottage at 884 square feet.
Not every community welcomes tiny houses, so if you want to build one, be sure you check out local zoning laws and building codes—even health codes. In addition, some housing developments and subdivisions have private covenants that prevent building tiny houses. Finally, some municipalities treat them like travel trailers if they're on wheels. So check out your local rules and regulations.
Tiny house resources
You could spend all day on the Internet reading the growing number of tiny house websites. Here are some sites you might enjoy perusing:
www.thetinylife.com • www.tinyhousedesign.com
www.smallhousestyle.com • www.tumbleweedhouses.com
tinyhouseblog.com • tinyhousetalk.com


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Insemination fight ends in wife's arrest
Pittsfield police responded to a call shortly before 4:30 p.m. Tuesday in the city's Morningside neighborhood, where the assault allegedly occurred.
Stephanie K. Lighten, 26, was released on personal recognizance after denying the allegations in Central Berkshire District Court Wednesday morning.
Jennifer A. Lighten, 33, told police that Stephanie Lighten, her wife, was "all liquored up" when she returned to their Lincoln Street apartment, where the defendant then allegedly tried to use a syringe to inseminate her, according to a police report.
Jennifer told investigating officers that Stephanie "has been talking about trying to impregnate (her) for some time," police said.
According to a report by Pittsfield Police Officer Kipp D. Steinman: "Jennifer said that Stephanie had a 'turkey baster and her brother's semen in a sealed container.' Jennifer said she told Stephanie that she didn't want to get pregnant." The device was actually a large syringe with a catheter tip, police said, and it was still in its original package when officers confiscated the item.
That's allegedly when Stephanie threw Jennifer on the couch, grabbed at her clothes and threatened to impregnate her, police said.
Jennifer broke free, ran into the bathroom and locked the door. Stephanie "then broke the bathroom door down," police said, hurting her wrist in the process.
When Stephanie went to retrieve an ice pack from the freezer, Jennifer bolted from the apartment and attempted to get away in the couple's sport utility vehicle, police said.
As Jennifer pulled away from the scene, Stephanie "jumped on the side of their vehicle, swung the door open and made (Jennifer) stop," Steinman said.
According to Officer John Bassi, a witness at the scene claimed Stephanie "was hanging on the SUV door handle, trying to get into the car." Amber Hunt told Bassi that Stephanie nearly caused an accident when the vehicle narrowly missed hitting a tree in the front yard of Hunt's Spring Street home.
Police arrested Stephanie Lighten near the intersection of Spring and Curtis streets in Morningside.
Police also confiscated the container of semen and some aluminum foil, which was originally used to hold the semen. Nicholas Lighten, Stephanie Lighten's brother, was the donor, according to police.
Detective Thomas H. Harrington said Jennifer Lighten declined "to go forward with charges of assault with intent to rape" because she did not believe "Stephanie was going to sexually assault her with the syringe." However, Harrington informed the alleged victim that attempted rape charges could be filed if she changes her mind.
Stephanie Lighten was represented by attorney Thomas J. Donahue Jr. at Wednesday's arraignment.
Judge Rita S. Koenigs ordered Lighten to "refrain from abuse" and to return to court for an April 29 pretrial hearing.
If you'd like to leave a comment (or a tip or a question) about this story with the editors, please email us. We also welcome letters to the editor for publication; you can do that by filling out our letters form and submitting it to the newsroom.


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The Boulder-produced documentary "Chasing Ice" is among the films that will screen at the Sundance Film Festival in January, the vital indie fest announced this afternoon.
Jeff Orlowski's "Chasing Ice" will compete in the U.S. doc category. The feature-length film follows environmental photojournalist James Balog during the creation of his Extreme Ice Survey, which documents in time-lapse the retreat of the glaciers in Greenland, Nepal and the Rocky Mountains, to name a few of the places where the Survey's 38 cameras are located.
"It's official," Boulder-based filmmaker Jerry Aronson emailed. The former C.U. professor and director of "The Life and Times of Allen Ginsberg" shares producing credit with Paula DuPré Pesmen on the film.
"The challenge of making a film about global warming is to not preach to the chorus," said the film's editor, Davis Coombe of Denver. "So we tried to make this film about art and the way art and science can work together and hopefully open some minds. It's something anybody can enjoy and because of the almost adventure side of the story it's a fun piece to watch."
As news of the film's inclusion broke, Orlowski was ensconced with composer J. Ralph ("Man on Wire" "The Cove") in a New York studio.
Pesmen is no stranger to Sundance. A Boulder resident, she was a producer on "The Cove." Louie Psihoyos' documentary about the annual slaughter of dolphin in Japan premiered at the fest in 2009 and went on to win the 2010 Oscar for best documentary.


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Ay man, I'm, I'm walkin' on South Beach the other day, right
Yeah, so they got a nigga come up to me with a video camera, right
And you know motherfuckers come up to me with cameras every day so I don't be trippin'
All day every day you know what I mean?
So you know what this nigga asked me?
"Yo, can I battle you on camera?"
I was like, "Dawg, how much we gon' make for this?"
You, you really think, yo, yo
For all you niggas thinkin' y'all can see me and think it's really a game
Cause I'm from the south or don't really be boastin' and braggin' 'bout that flow and shit
Dawg I got this shit, dawg, you niggas think you could fuck with me?


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By Marc Siegel MD
Doctors, no fans of health insurance, are openly rooting that Obamacare will be struck down by SCOTUS, as appears to be the direction of things after last month's oral arguments.
A recent poll by sermo.com, a physican's website, revealed that 75 percent of doctors are against the health care law, and a survey by Deloitte, a major health consulting firm, found that 69 percent of physicians are "pessimistic about the future of medicine" because of the law.
Why? Because we physicians understand what many lawyers and judges don't, that insurance – no matter what kind – presents a bureaucratic barrier between doctor and patient, between my desire to help you and actually being able to do so. The so-called Affordable Care Act increases the problem by extending it to more people rather than providing solutions. If Obamacare stands, its review boards and committees will make recommendations that are sure to stifle my creativity and interfere with my one-on-one doctoring even as they decide that one medical service is better than another and that I am being paid too much for procedures it has taken me decades to master.
I am concerned that the machinations of Obamacare will squelch a young person's desire to become a doctor in the first place. At a time when we need more doctors, not less, the number of medical school applicants is down 3,000 applicants a year since 1996. Today's graduating medical students are looking down the road into Obamacare's overregulated poor paying future and are choosing to not become low paying primary care doctors like me. Studies have shown that the ranks of primary care internists have already decreased by a third from 1985 to 2008. That number is sure to double by 2014 unless the law is dismantled.
The fundamentals of Obamacare ignore the simple economic truths of supply and demand. I believe the individual mandate is unconstitutional because it is forcing people to buy a product. But beyond that, it doesn't make sense to add more customers to an event that is already filled to capacity. If Obamacare were a carnival that can only admit 100 customers, then selling tickets to 200 will only lead to long lines, dissatisfied customers, and exhausted employees.
As one of those exhausted employees, I believe it is disingenuous for supporters of the law to make the claim that health care is a special case since we all get sick eventually. When you add 32 million more people to an overburdened system with too few doctors and those doctors we do have dropping out of insurances in droves, you are creating a perfect storm. It is one thing for the government to extend the National Health Service Corp or build more clinics to take care of the poor or insist that ERs don't turn sick people away, it is quite another to extend insurance without the caretakers to work with it.
If the individual mandate stands, it will become necessary for the federal government to pass another mandate for doctors. If that sorry day ever comes, I will be compelled to join the ranks of those who shutter their windows and close their doors.
Marc Siegel MD is an associate professor of medicine and medical director of Doctor Radio at NYU Langone Medical Center, a member of the Fox News Medical A Team, and author of The Inner Pulse; Unlocking the Secret Code of Sickness and Health.


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For years we've attempted to interest publishers in reprinting Jim Flora's 17 popular children's books. At the top of our wish-list were four titles: The Fabulous Firework Family (1955); The Day the Cow Sneezed (1957); Charlie Yup and His Snip-Snap Boys (1959); and Grampa's Ghost Stories (1978). We consider these the top-tier Flora kiddie books on an artistic level—with The Day the Cow Sneezed the most outlandish of the quartet.
We've had inquiries, offers, meetings, draft agreements, proposals—and subsequent turndowns from six or seven publishers (we've lost count). Reasons vary, but they never seem to have much to do with the quality of the books. They are business decisions, which we're in no position to second-guess.
Patience has paid off, as we recently signed with Enchanted Lion Books to reprint Cow Sneezed in Fall 2010. Publisher Claudia Zoe Bedrick is a Floraphile, and depending on the success of the first reprint, she hopes to continue republishing two Flora titles a year. There is even the possibility of printing Grampa's Ghost Stories, a two-color format work which contains some of Flora's most bizarre figures—in an all-new full-color edition.


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To our community,
Recently some very disturbing photos containing child pornography were posted to our galleries for member-submitted photos. We removed these photos promptly after discovery, but we know that some members viewed them before removal and we apologize if you saw them. You should know that we?re taking all possible steps to prevent this from happening again. We?re also working with the law enforcement community to make sure the person behind this gets prosecuted to the fullest extent of the law.
As you know, we deeply value our community of members on The Nest, and so it?s very important to us that you feel safe on our message boards, in the galleries and all of the other community sections of the site. These are open forums, so we look to our members to help us maintain the spirit of community -- you should feel 100% comfortable to alerting us to activity like this. (You can write to one of our employee moderators or [email protected]) Thank you to the members who already did that for this incident.


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Game 5 live: Kings capture Cup vs. Rangers
The Los Angeles Kings needed a second game to get it done, but they captured their second Stanley Cup in three years in Game 5.
The Kings also won their 2012 championship at home (in Game 6) and they are the only team to parade the Cup around home ice since the Anaheim Ducks won in 2007.
The odds were against the New York Rangers. Of the 26 previous teams that trailed the Final 3-0, only three had reached Game 6.
A look at the game (GIFs are from @myregularface):
Conn Smythe winner
It goes to Justin Williams, who had the opening goal and had two goals and seven points in the Final. He had 25 points for the playoffs, one behind LA's Anze Kopitar. Williams also won a Stanley Cup with LA in 2012 and with the Carolina Hurricanes in 2006.
Kings win
The LA Kings' Alec Martinez scores and the Kings defeat the New York Rangers 3-2 in double OT to win the 2013-14 Stanley Cup.
He got the Kings into the Stanley Cup Final by scoring in overtime for Los Angeles in Game 7 against the Chicago Blackhawks.
100 face-offs
That's how many there have been in this game. 6:36 left in double OT.
More numbers
Dustin Brown and Benoit Pouliot have six hits each. Lundqvist has 42 saves. Ryan McDonagh has 40:21 of ice time.
Nash misses
Rick Nash had a wide-open net and clear lane to get the game-winner for New York, but the puck deflected just enough off a stick to miss high.
Another Rangers shot rings off the post behind Quick while New York was on the power play.
Kings take penalty
LA's Clifford heads to the box for boarding after hitting Derek Dorsett from behind. 14:16 to play in 2nd OT.
Back at it
The 2nd overtime period is barely underway and Lundqvist has already robbed the Kings with a great save.
Big game, big numbers
New York's Ryan McDonagh has played 36:45 through four periods and Los Angeles' Drew Doughty has played 35:48.
Shot disparity
After four periods, the Kings are outshooting the Rangers 42-24.
Double overtime it is
After 20 extra minutes, the Rangers and Kings are still tied 2-2
Jonathan Quick showed off his flexibility while making a difficult, crucial save
King Henrik
Lundqvist is carrying the Rangers through the overtime frame with one improbable save after another.
Doc Emrick on his game as well
Another post!
Tyler Toffoli banked a slapper off the cross bar behind Lundqvist. Still tied.
Shot blocker
Benoit Pouliot doing a great job blocking shots in front of Lundqvist
Rangers hanging in
The Kings won't let up on New York but Lundqvist and the Rangers continue to flood the lanes and take away chances.
Off the post!
The Rangers' McDonagh ring a shot off the post behind Quick while on the powerplay.
Kings come out swinging
LA jumps on the Rangers and Lundqvist trying to end the overtime period early.
Here we go! Overtime!
Overtime ahead
A flurry of shots from the Kings couldn't find mesh. After 60 minutes, it's 2-2 and the teams head to OT.
Goalie battle
Lundqvist and Quick making tough, stellar saves to keep this game tied.
Conn Smythe update
From David Leon Moore: If you're still trying to figure out a Conn Smythe winner if the series ends tonight, here are some updated stats, not that they make things any clearer.
Anze Kopitar leads all playoff scorers with 26 points.
Marian Gaborik leads all goal-scorers with 14, including the game-tying goal tonight.
Justin Williams has 25 points, a goal tonight and lots of heroics recently.
Jeff Carter has 25 points, including an assist tonight.
Drew Doughty has 18 points and a lot of huge plays.
Can they split it five ways?
There's that Kings dominance
Midway through the third period, shots are 8-1 Kings.
Kings tie it up
With the Kings on a power play, former Ranger Marian Gaborik scores on a rebound to tie the game. That's his 14th goal of the playoffs.
Kings apply pressure
Henrik Lundqvist makes saves on Willie Mitchell, Drew Doughty and Jake Muzzin.
Slow start to third
The Kings usually dominate in the third period, but five minutes in, the shots are 1-0 LA.
Puck drops
Third period is under way
Second period over
2-1 Rangers. The Kings outshot the Rangers 10-6 in that period and lead 17-12 for the game. They also have a 22-20 edge in faceoffs, but the Rangers now lead in hits (21-20) and blocked shots (9-8).
Rangers go up 2-1
What a killer goal. New York's Brian Boyle scores a short-handed goal with a perfectly place shot with 25 seconds left in the second period to put the Rangers ahead. The Kings have shown great resilience in these playoffs, but those types of goals often deflate teams.
Clifford dangerous again
The Kings' No. 13 makes a power move across the crease on Friday the 13th. Henrik Lundqvist is forced to make two saves.
Rangers tie it up
Chris Kreider scores on the power play, deflects in a nice pass from Ryan McDonagh. Brad Richards gets the other assist. Score now 1-1.
Says David Leon Moore: There was an odd, quiet feeling – and definite lack of intensity – in the building before Kreider's goal. The place has come alive now.
Rangers back on power play
LA's Dwight King goes off for high-sticking.
Ten minutes in, the Rangers have only two shots in the second period.
Shot dearth
Kings pressure
That's two shifts in a row where LA's Kyle Clifford has made some strong moves.
Lundqvist save
Henrik Lundqvist is forced up to come up big on Jarret Stoll after a giveaway in the Rangers' zone.
Quick save
Jonathan Quick stops Mats Zuccarello in close. Gives up a big rebound, but no Rangers are there to capitalize.
Former referee weighs in
Second period under way
Kings kill off the remainder of the Drew Doughty penalty.
Your first-period stats
Kings lead in shots (7-6), hits (10-8), faceoffs (9-7) and blocked shots (4-3).
First period over: Kings up 1-0
Says Kevin Allen: The Kings had a decent start, but not as strong as coach Darryl Sutter would have wanted. The Rangers seemed to play better as the period progressed.
Kings take penalty
Defenseman Drew Doughty goes off for cross-checking Derek Stepan. The Rangers' power play will have 49 seconds remaining when the second period begins.
Kings on power play
Benoit Pouliot collides with Kings goalie Jonathan Quick, whose mask comes off. Goaltender interference.
More on Justin Williams
Williams' goal gives him 25 points in the playoffs, behind only teammate Anze Kopitar with 26. Leading goal scorer Marian Gaborik has 13 goals, 21 points. Jeff Carter has 24 points and Drew Doughty 17.
Rangers pushing
The shots were once 5-0 Kings. Now they're tied at 6-6.
Penalty killed
The Rangers had one shot on goal during their power play.
Clearing the crease
In this TV timeout, the Kings shovel people seem to be doing an extra careful shoveling job in Henrik Lundqvist's crease.
Probably because of this from Game 4.
Rangers on power play
Rangers' first shot came 7:38 into the game. Dustin Brown goes off for hooking Martin St. Louis shortly after.
Conn Smythe update
Says David Leon Moore: The question of who might win the Conn Smythe if the Kings win the Stanley Cup tonight does not have an easy answer, as there are more than a handful of candidates, including Anze Kopitar, Marian Gaborik, Jeff Carter, Drew Doughty, Dustin Brown and even goaltender Jonathan Quick.
But Justin Williams, the man with many nicknames, might have gotten a leg up on the award with his first-period goal.
Which might make Mr. Game 7, who also became Mr. Game 1 and Mr. OT in this series, Mr. Game 5 or Mr. Cup or Mr. Smythe or . . .
1-0 Kings
Apparently Mr. Game 7 is also Mr. Game 5. Justin Williams scores on a rebound as the Kings pressured.
Five minutes in
We've played five minutes and the Rangers have no shots on goal.
Penalty killed
The Kings had two shots during their first power play.
Kings on power play
Rick Nash goes off for hooking Jake Muzzin at 1:44. Offensive-zone penalties have been an issue for the Rangers in the playoffs.
Says Kevin Allen: What was Rick Nash thinking on that play? Needless penalty.
Puck drops
And we're under way
Friday the 13th
It's been pointed out all day, so let's say it, too.
It's Friday the 13th, there's a full moon tonight and Rangers goalie Henrik Lundqvist is playing the 666th NHL game of his career. A creepy convergence.
Kevin Allen's key for the Kings
1. Make the front of the Rangers' net look like the 101 at rush hour. The Kings want traffic, congestion and confusion parked in front of Lundqvist, who is 5-0 with a 1.00 goals-against average and .971 save percentage when the Rangers have faced elimination this postseason.
2. Strong start. It might be true that the Kings have done their best work playing from behind, but if they get a lead in the Staples Center, it will get rock concert-loud in that building.
3. Get strong performances from their best players. It's time for Anze Kopitar to be Wayne Gretzky-good in this series.
Kevin Allen's keys for the Rangers
1. Generate some offense. The Rangers were offensively useless in the second half of Game 4.
2. Play the perfect road game, strong defense, dedicated shot-blocking, consistent effort start to finish. Expect to win a 2-1 decision.
3. Have every Rangers player perform at a higher level because the Kings are going to be better.


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Brussels, 7 January 2010
Commission awards major contracts to make Galileo operational early 2014
The European Commission announced today the award of three of the six contracts for the procurement of Galileo's initial operational capability. The contract for the system support services is awarded to ThalesAleniaSpace of Italy , that for a first order of 14 satellites to OHB System AG of Germany and that for the launch services to Arianespace of France. This will allow the initial deployment and service provision of Europe's satellite navigation system as of early 2014.
Antonio Tajani, European Commission Vice-President in charge of Transport, said: "With this and the upcoming awards for the remaining procurement packages, we are concluding a critical phase of the Galileo programme. We can now focus on the actual roll-out and demonstrate to European citizens that Europe's own satellite navigation system is firmly underway".
The contract awarded to ThalesAleniaSpace for the system support services covers the industrial services needed to support the European Space Agency for the integration and the validation of the Galileo system. It has a value of €85 million.
The signing of a framework contract in December with both OHB System AG and EADS-Astrium GmBH, both of Germany, paved the way for the eventual provision of a maximum of 32 satellites. Today OHB wins the first order of 14 satellites for a value of €566 million. The remaining satellites will be procured in subsequent work orders, each time from either OHB or EADS-Astrium GmBH depending on which company provides the most advantageous offer. The Commission intends to follow a strategy of double sourcing to lower risks, particularly in terms of delivery timings, and increase flexibility.
The contract with Arianespace covers the launch of five Soyuz launchers, each carrying two satellites. The first launch is scheduled for October 2012. The value of the contract amounts to €397 million.
The contracts are expected to be signed in the next few weeks between the chosen companies and the European Space Agency, on behalf of the European Commission.
The Commission is now able to better schedule the timings for the provision of the different Galileo services: the Open Service, the Public Regulated Service and the Search And Rescue Service will be provided as of early 2014. The Safety-of-Life Service and the Commercial Service will be tested as of 2014 and will be provided as Galileo reaches full operational capability with a constellation of 30 satellites.
The remaining three procurement contracts, for the ground mission infrastructure, the ground control infrastructure and the operations should be awarded by mid-2010.
Procurement process
The procurement for Galileo's full operational capability is divided into six work packages:
The process kicked off in July 2008 by the European Space Agency, under delegation from the European Commission. Short-listed companies were invited to submit best and final offers following a comprehensive dialogue phase. All contracts are awarded on the basis of "best value for money".
For some work packages, both framework contracts and specific contracts may be signed. Framework contracts set the conditions under which specific contracts will be concluded for concrete work orders, but without any commitment regarding the award of such specific contracts.
System support services
Through a framework contract lasting from 2010 till 2016, a specific contract for a first work order was awarded to ThalesAleniaSpace. The specific contract for the first order lasts from 2010 till 2014, and includes the following services:
A framework contract signed with both OHB System AG and EADS-Astrium GmBH lasting from 2010 till 2015, covers the provision of a maximum of 32 satellites. A specific contract for a first order of 14 satellites was awarded to OHB, with the provision of the first satellite in July 2012. One satellite is expected every 1.5 month as of then, with the last one scheduled to be delivered in March 2014.
Launch services
A contract was awarded to Arianespace for the launch of five Soyuz launchers from Kourou, French Guiana, each taking two satellites on board. The first launch is scheduled to take place in October 2012 and will be followed by four to five launches per year. The contract also contains options for either two additional Soyuz launches (carrying two satellites) or one Ariane 5 (carrying four satellites).
Phasing of the programme
The Galileo programme has been structured in two phases:
For more information about Galileo, please visit http://ec.europa.eu/transport/galileo .
Side Bar


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The 2011 AAA Photo Contest is a showcase of anthropology at its best. Of the 93 photos submitted, AAA members selected their favorites in each of the four categories: Practice, People, Place and Process. You can view the top 20 photos in Anthropology News. Here on the AAA blog, we will feature several of the photos in this blog series, Photo Friday.
Title: Mothers of a Naming Ceremony in the Gambia
Photo Courtesy of Flordeliz Bugarin
Contest Category: People
Caption: To celebrate their children, the Jabang family hosted a Naming Ceremony. This Mandinka Naming Ceremony involved dancing throughout the night, music, and a visit from the Kankurang (a masked dancer who is covered in leaves).
Look for details on the 2012 AAA Photo Contest in late April!
Missed last week's photo? Click here.


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Huge screen. HDMI-in with "Game Mode". USB 3.0. Blu-ray. 15 month subscription to Norton Internet Security. Quad Core Multimedia performance. Beats Audio. Subwoofer option.
1,920 by 1,080 resolution has fewer pixels than the 27-inch iMac. Bloatware.
Bottom Line
The HP Omni 27 is an attractive all-in-one desktop with a huge 27-inch screen. It's perfect for watching both online and Blu-ray movies, and has the power to create those movies, if you have cinematic hobbies.
If you're a video hobbyist or movie aficionado, you may be tempted to buy the HP Omni 27 ($1,249 direct) for both viewing and editing videos. You would be making a great choice, as the Omni 27's huge 27-inch 1080p HD screen is essentially a theater-sized screen when you're sitting a few feet away. It has the power to create and transcode video for distribution online, plus the built-in Blu-ray means you'll have access to the thousands of titles that aren't available on Netflix or other streaming services. Plus Blu-rays usually have the special features that film geeks love to view over and over. For this and other features, the HP Omni 27 earns our Editors' Choice award for midrange all-in-one desktop PCs.
Design and Features
The Omni 27 looks like a ramped up version of the HP TouchSmart 520-1030 ($899.99 list, 3 stars) we saw last year. Instead of a 23-inch monitor, the Omni 27 has a huge 27-inch screen at the same true 1080p HD (1,920 by 1,080) resolution. The Omni 27 has a seamless, edge-to-edge piece of glass over the screen, since the system doesn't have to worry about supporting a touch interface. In contrast, the HP 520 has a raised bezel to accommodate the touch screen sensors. Not a huge thing, but the seamless glass results in smoother lines in the design. The components are built into the screen, which is suspended above the base by two silver-colored arms. The system follows HP's unique design ID, and it works really well.
The large screen on the PC looks very much like a 27-inch HDTV. At first I thought the screen would have too little resolution for the size, since the Apple iMac 27-inch (Thunderbolt) ($1,999 list, 4 stars) has a 2,560 by 1,440 resolution screen with more pixels and a larger desktop area. You will be able to see a "screen door" effect from the pixels on the Omni 27's display, but only if you get too close for usability, about 3 to 6 inches away. Viewing from desktop distance (about 3 feet) gives you a decidedly movie theater feel, and viewing from 5 to 8 feet away gives you a home theater-type view. The screen really fills your field of view from desktop distance. All in all, the system is both attractive and highly usable as a home entertainment PC.
The Omni comes with a quad-core Intel Core i5-2400S processor, 8GB of memory, 1TB hard drive, integrated Intel graphics, a Blu-ray player/DVD burner combo drive, four USB 2.0 ports, two USB 3.0 ports, SD/MMC/MS card reader, and a HDMI-in port. This means that aside from a touch screen, the Omni 27 has just about all of the hardware components that we look for in a large screen all-in-one PC. The USB 3.0 ports feel like light speed (5Gbps) compared with plain old USB 2.0 (480Mbps), and the HDMI-in port lets you continue to use the system's screen when the internal components like the i5 processor eventually become obsolete. You can connect a future laptop or desktop to the Omni 27 and use the latter as a 27-inch monitor. The Omni 27 calls the HDMI-in "game mode," so they're also intending the port be used for gaming consoles like Xbox 360 or Sony PlayStation 3. The system comes with Cyberlink PowerDVD 10 for playing back DVDs and Blu-ray movies. Beats Audio enhancements help both music and movies. There's a subwoofer jack in the back to connect HP's optional Pulse subwoofer ($129.99). We tried the Omni 27 out with the Pulse sub, and it makes a big difference with music and movies. The included speakers are adequate without the subwoofer, but adding some bass goes a long way to movie and music enjoyment.
There are a few nits on the system however. For instance, it has a lot of icons strewn on the desktop. These include eBay, HP Download Store (AKA HP Marketplace), HP Magic Canvas (the full-screen interface seen on TouchSmart systems), HP Support Assistant, Office 2010 Starter, Norton Internet Security, HP Games, Rara Music (a paid music service), Snapfish, and Zya Music. Just about all of these programs are also found in the Start menu, so feel free to delete the icons you don't use. Our review unit came with a 15-month subscription to Norton Internet Security, a huge improvement over the usual 30-day free trial.
The Omni 27's Intel Core i5-2400S processor gives it the oomph to return pretty good scores at our benchmark tests. The system returned a decent 1 minute 28 seconds at our Handbrake video test and 3:31 at our Photoshop CS5 test. This is significantly faster than the Core i3-powered Editor's Choice Sony VAIO VPC-L231FX/W ($999.99 at Staples, 4.5 stars) (2:22 Handbrake, 5:34 CS5), and a smidge slower than the Core i7-powered HP Compaq 8200 Elite All-in-One ($1,859 direct, 3 stars) (1:18 Handbrake, 3:02 CS5). The system's PCMark 7 scores (2,783 points) also follow pricing and processor positioning, with the HP 8200 Elite coming out on top (2,863). What's notable about these scores is that the Omni 27 is closer to the 8200 Elite than the Sony VAIO (which scored 2,167), which means we can consider the Omni 27 as a powerhouse system.
The HP Omni 27 is a bit more expensive than our former Editors' Choice Sony VAIO VPC-L231FX/W, but the Omni 27 has a much larger screen, longer Norton subscription, much faster performance, a Blu-ray Player, and more system memory. The Sony L231FX/W's main differentiators are FireWire/i.Link (no big deal), a touch screen (not a big deal until Windows 8 gains traction), and a few more connectors like composite video in and HDMI-out. Ultimately, the Omni 27 is a better multimedia system because of the larger screen and faster performance. The screen and Blu-ray drive also outclass the former midrange Editor's Choice Asus ET2410IUTS-B018C ($999.99 list, 4 stars), which was begging for better sound and a Blu-ray. About the only system that trumps the Omni 27 at video and photo is the 27-inch iMac, but you'll have to pay a $750 price premium for the Mac's better screen resolution, 3D graphics prowess, and Thunderbolt port. The Omni 27 is aimed more at the prosumer anyway, leave the iMac to the professionals who can afford the price premium. If you want Blu-ray and online movies, get the Omni 27.
Check out the test scores for the HP Omni 27
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