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Mailman 2
Mailman is an application for managing electronic mailing lists. Normally you will use it along a mail server and also a web server too; for the first you may pick one between Postfix, Exim, Sendmail and Qmail —if you are unsure about which one to use, Postfix is a very good choice—; as for the latter, any web server is useful, common options are Apache HTTP Server, Lighttpd and Nginx. (These three pieces do not necessarily have to run on the same computer.)
Only the Mailman installation will be covered in this article. You can refer to the correspondent wiki pages to learn how to install the mail and web servers.
For this guide we are going to suppose that you are using a machine called "arch" and you want to setup mailing lists for the organizations "a", "b" and "c", with example domains "a.org", "b.org" and "c.org" that point to "arch". For each domain,
- Mailman's web interface will be accessible from
- the lists' archives under
- Lists addresses will look like
A caveat: you can use a Mailman installation to manage lists for several domains, but two lists cannot have the same name even though its domains are different!
Mailman installation
Install the mailmanAUR[broken link: package not found] package.
Mailman configuration
The full set of configuration defaults lives in the
/usr/lib/mailman/Mailman/Defaults.py file. However you should never modify this file! Instead, change the mm_cfg.py file,
/etc/mailman/mm_cfg.py. You only need to add values to mm_cfg.py that are different than the defaults in Defaults.py. Future Mailman upgrades are guaranteed never to touch your mm_cfg.py file.
Web Server integration
DEFAULT_URL_HOST = 'lists.a.org' VIRTUAL_HOSTS.clear() add_virtualhost(DEFAULT_URL_HOST, DEFAULT_EMAIL_HOST) add_virtualhost('lists.b.org', 'b.org') add_virtualhost('lists.c.org', 'c.org') POSTFIX_STYLE_VIRTUAL_DOMAINS = ['a.org', 'b.org', 'c.org'] DEFAULT_URL_PATTERN = 'http://%s/' PUBLIC_ARCHIVE_URL = 'http://%(hostname)s/archives/%(listname)s'
For Apache make this change from the above:
DEFAULT_URL_PATTERN = 'http://%s/lists/'
MTA integration
The content of
/etc/mailman/mm_cfg.py varies depending on the chosen mail server.
Postfix integration
DEFAULT_EMAIL_HOST = 'a.org' MTA = 'Postfix'
Once you have edited mm_cfg.py, run
# /usr/lib/mailman/bin/genaliases
to generate an aliases file that Postfix needs.
Exim integration
DEFAULT_EMAIL_HOST = 'a.org' MTA = None
Mail Server Configuration
Note: Ensure your domain name server (DNS) setup. For mail delivery on the internet, your DNS must be correct. An MX record should point to the mail host. More info about DNS is beyond the scope of this document.
For installing and configuring this mail server, see Postfix. (If you will be using Postfix just for Mailman, its setup is much simpler: ignore all the mailbox and database stuff.)
/etc/postfix/main.cf should have the following fields and values:
myhostname = arch.a.org mydomain = a.org myorigin = $mydomain mydestination = localhost, a.org, b.org, c.org mynetworks_style = host alias_maps = hash:/etc/postfix/aliases, hash:/var/lib/mailman/data/aliases alias_database = $alias_maps virtual_alias_maps = hash:/etc/postfix/virtual, hash:/var/lib/mailman/data/virtual-mailman recipient_delimiter = +
Edit your
/etc/mail/exim.conf to add entries in the following sections:
local_mailman_list: driver = accept require_files = /var/lib/mailman/lists/${lc::$local_part}/config.pck local_part_suffix = -admin : -bounces : -bounces+* : -confirm : -confirm+* : -join : -leave : -owner : -request : -subscribe : -unsubscribe local_part_suffix_optional transport = mailman_transport
mailman_transport: driver = pipe user = mailman group = mailman home_directory = /usr/lib/mailman current_directory = /usr/lib/mailman command = /usr/lib/mailman/mail/mailman '${if def:local_part_suffix {${sg{$local_part_suffix}{-(\\w+)(\\+.*)?}{\$1}}}{post}}' $local_part
Web Server Configuration
For installing and configuring this web server, see Nginx. Mailman web interface relies on CGI processing; this setup uses Nginx along
fcgiwrap, see Nginx#fcgiwrap.
/etc/nginx/nginx.conf should include the following configuration per domain (example for a.org):
server { server_name lists.a.org; root /usr/lib/mailman/cgi-bin; location = / { rewrite ^ /listinfo permanent; } location / { fastcgi_split_path_info ^(/[^/]*)(.*)$; fastcgi_pass unix:/run/fcgiwrap.sock; include fastcgi.conf; fastcgi_param PATH_INFO $fastcgi_path_info; fastcgi_param PATH_TRANSLATED $document_root$fastcgi_path_info; } location /icons { alias /usr/lib/mailman/icons; } location /archives { alias /var/lib/mailman/archives/public; autoindex on; } }
user http and
group http or Mailman will complain. Be sure to define the
user directive in
/etc/nginx/conf/nginx.conf as follows (outside the
html block):
user http http;
server.modules = ("mod_rewrite", "mod_cgi") url.rewrite = ( "^/$" => "/listinfo" ) alias.url = ( "/icons" => "/usr/lib/mailman/icons", "/archives" => "/var/lib/mailman/archives/public" ) cgi.assign = ( "/usr/lib/mailman/cgi-bin/admin" => "", "/usr/lib/mailman/cgi-bin/admin/" => "", "/usr/lib/mailman/cgi-bin/admindb" => "", "/usr/lib/mailman/cgi-bin/admindb/" => "", "/usr/lib/mailman/cgi-bin/confirm" => "", "/usr/lib/mailman/cgi-bin/confirm/" => "", "/usr/lib/mailman/cgi-bin/create" => "", "/usr/lib/mailman/cgi-bin/create/" => "", "/usr/lib/mailman/cgi-bin/edithtml" => "", "/usr/lib/mailman/cgi-bin/edithtml/" => "", "/usr/lib/mailman/cgi-bin/listinfo" => "", "/usr/lib/mailman/cgi-bin/listinfo/" => "", "/usr/lib/mailman/cgi-bin/options" => "", "/usr/lib/mailman/cgi-bin/options/" => "", "/usr/lib/mailman/cgi-bin/private" => "", "/usr/lib/mailman/cgi-bin/private/" => "", "/usr/lib/mailman/cgi-bin/rmlist" => "", "/usr/lib/mailman/cgi-bin/rmlist/" => "", "/usr/lib/mailman/cgi-bin/roster" => "", "/usr/lib/mailman/cgi-bin/roster/" => "", "/usr/lib/mailman/cgi-bin/subscribe" => "", "/usr/lib/mailman/cgi-bin/subscribe/" => "" ) $HTTP["host"] =~ "(^|\.)lists.a.org$" { server.document-root = "/usr/lib/mailman/cgi-bin/" server.errorlog = "/var/log/lighttpd/lists.a.org_error.log" accesslog.filename = "/var/log/lighttpd/lists.a.org_access.log" }
Add following line to your
IMAGE_LOGOS = '/mailman-icons/'
The example use of of creating lists.a.org implies creating a vhost. Consider moving the following configuration into a vhost definition instead of modifying your global
Modify your
/etc/httpd/conf/httpd.conf with the following snippets added.
<IfModule alias_module> Alias /mailman-icons/ "/usr/lib/mailman/icons/" Alias /archives/ "/var/lib/mailman/archives/public/" ScriptAlias /lists/ "/usr/lib/mailman/cgi-bin/" ScriptAlias / "/usr/lib/mailman/cgi-bin/listinfo" </IfModule> <Directory "/usr/lib/mailman/cgi-bin/"> AllowOverride None Options Indexes FollowSymlinks ExecCGI Require all granted </Directory> <Directory "/usr/lib/mailman/icons/"> Require all granted </Directory> <Directory "/var/lib/mailman/archives/public/"> Require all granted </Directory>
Post configuration
Site-wide mailing list
To create this specific list requested by Mailman for its proper operation (between other things, it is used for password reminders), run:
# /usr/lib/mailman/bin/newlist mailman
This will create a list called "mailman" under the default domain (email@example.com in the example). You do not have to do it for the other domains (i.e. b.org and c.org).
Later you should also subscribe yourself to the site list.
Set up timers
Several Mailman features occur on a regular schedule, so you must set up timers to run the right programs at the right time.
# cd /usr/lib/systemd/system # for X in mailman-*.timer ; do systemctl enable $X && systemctl start $X ; done
Start Mailman
Mailman will not start processing and sending emails until the
mailman daemon is started, and optionally enabled, with systemctl.
If you run into problems, run it more verbose so it can help you troubleshoot:
# /usr/lib/mailman/bin/mailmanctl start
Create a password
There are two type of passwords that you can create from the command line. The first is the "general password" which can be used anywhere a password is required in the system. The site password will get you into the administration page for any list, and it can be used to log in as any user.
The second password is a site-wide "list creator" password. You can use this to delegate the ability to create new mailing lists without providing all the privileges of the site password. Of course, the owner of the site password can also create new mailing lists, but the list creator password is limited to just that special role.
To set the general password, use this command:
# /usr/lib/mailman/bin/mmsitepass <general-password>
To set the list creator password, this:
# /usr/lib/mailman/bin/mmsitepass -c <list-creator-password>
It is okay not to set a list creator password, but you probably do want a general password.
Using Mailman
To administrate your lists (create and configure lists, manage users, etcetera) use the web interface; remember that each domain has its own. For example, the URL of organization "a" would be http://lists.a.org.
Mailman can be also managed by command-line. Example for list creation:
# newlist --urlhost=lists.b.org --emailhost=b.org list_name
You should check that your installation has all the correct permissions and group ownerships by running the check_perms script:
# /usr/lib/mailman/bin/check_perms
. If it reports problems, then you can either fix them manually or use the same program to fix them (probably the easiest solution):
# /usr/lib/mailman/bin/check_perms -f
. Repeat previous steps until no more errors are reported!
Make sure that the files in
- aliases.db,
- aliases,
- virtual-mailman,
- virtual-mailman.db,
are user and group owned by mailman and that are group writable.


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Looking to make the switch to natural cleaners, but not quite sure where to start or what to use? We're here to help! We asked our cleaning experts to spill their best natural cleaning secrets to create this handy guide on the four best natural cleaners for your home.
1. Salt
Thanks to its natural chemical properties, everyday household salt can effectively clean lime deposits, carpet and wicker furniture.
- Salt and vinegar will naturally dissolve lime, without disturbing your beautiful chrome or steel appliances and surfaces.
- Salt particles are naturally abrasive, so salt water will quickly and effectively remove dirt from even the hardest to reach nooks and crannies. This is perfect for all your outdoor furniture!
- Because salt is a natural degreaser, it will work wonders on your grease-based carpet stains — just be careful if your carpet is old or delicate.
Tips via Naturally Clean on Hometalk
2. Vinegar
Vinegar is a heavy hitter when it comes to tackling household chores. It can be used for nearly everything: basic spray cleaner, laundry fabric softener and cleaner, drain de-clogger and the uber-effective sticky gunk removal.
- Vinegar is an acid and removes corrosion (like rust) from the water. Vinegar also prevents rust from returning, for a longer lasting clean.
- Vinegar separates the bonds that hold together glue. As an acid, it will also remove anything and everything sticking to, well, anything.
- Vinegar and baking soda work wonders on clogged drains because the baking soda "lifts" while vinegar "removes" grease—the most likely culprit of your clogged drain.
- Anywhere around the kitchen where you have greasy surfaces, vinegar is the perfect cleaning solution.
Tips via Organic Cleaning Services on Hometalk
3. Hydrogen Peroxide
Hydrogen peroxide can do so much more than clean scrapes. It's also an effective cleaning agent and household disinfectant!
- Most grout discoloration is from body oils or oily soap scum, and hydrogen peroxide is a natural degreaser. It will break down the oils and grease and leave behind sparkling white grout.
- Hydrogen peroxide has one more oxygen atom than water, which makes it more powerful and effective than plain old H2O. Because of this and its status as a natural chemical, it's your best bet when it comes to cleaning your kids' toys.
- Rinsing your cutting boards with hydrogen peroxide is the best way to kill bacteria (especially salmonella). It will penetrate the many tiny nooks and crannies common on wood cutting boards.
Tips via Organic Cleaning Services on Hometalk
4. Steam
Steam is a great cleaning agent. It's chemical-free, it's a disinfectant, and it's ideal for food messes.
- To clean your microwave, fill a microwave-safe cup with ⅔ water and a tablespoon of vinegar and fresh lemon juice. Microwave the cup for 5 minutes, and then allow the steam to settle for another 5 minutes. The previously caked on gunk will now wipe clean.
- The natural grease from food items can easily be broken down by pressurized heat and water. There are many handheld steamers available, which can work wonders on your floors, counters and appliances. Steam is also quite effective at cleaning delicate fabrics.
- You can enclose dirty towels and linens in a bathroom with the hot shower running, or use a handheld steamer to clean them.
Tips via Naturally Clean on Hometalk
You can browse even more fabulous time-saving cleaning tips on Hometalk or ask our experts to help with your specific stain problems. Just upload your photo to the Hometalk Questions forum!

subset: commoncrawl


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NEW DELHI, INDIA – India recently announced that it would launch its first manned mission to the moon in the coming months. Many questioned why India would spend billions of dollars during a world economic crisis on interplanetary space travel.
It was revealed today that India was invited to cater what will be the 21st Century's largest intergalactic alien summit. Representatives will be coming from as far as the Qwoak home planet, or just around the corner, like Milky Way hometown favorites, the Martians.
"We are told that it came down to India, Italy, and China," Narsimha Menon, India's embassador to the InterGalactic Council, told reporters.
"Everyone knows that the Qwoaks are allergic to MSG so the Chinese were out, and the Vrrlkges do not eat carbs so the Italians got nixed. That leaves India; everyone loves Indian, it's so universal!" Menon said, not realizing his pun.
"The 2009 Alien Summit will be very influential in establishing governing policies for the next millennia," said Dsgeyf Tnknk, summit coordinator. "If you don't get the food right, it doesn't matter what is on the agenda. You don't want unhappy representatives voting on possible trade embargoes on Planet Doom."
Recently, Chicken Tikka Masala replaced fish and chips as the number one take out in Great Britain and replaced cannibalism as the primary food source amongst the native populations of Neptune.


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Emergency Fund
Do you have enough money to cover an emergency? Evaluate your finances to determine how much you should be saving for the unexpected.
Although four out of five Americans use a budget to plan their spending, 20 percent of them keep only a mental budget. Putting your budget on paper or in a basic spreadsheet is essential if you want a healthy financial future. Creating a detailed budget is key to managing your finances. An accurate monthly budget can help you reach your financial goals, whether you're saving for a car, buying a home or paying off student loans. By sticking to a budget, you can save thousands of dollars each year and avoid overspending.
Budgeting may sound complicated, but it can actually be a very basic personal finance skill. Whether you decide to make your budget bare bones or detailed to the last dollar, the most important part of budgeting is to put it into practice. Tracking your spending is essential to managing your budget.
First, let's test your budgeting knowledge.
Do you have enough money to cover an emergency? Evaluate your finances to determine how much you should be saving for the unexpected.
Learn how to create a budget that meets your financial goals and maximizes your money.
As your finances change, it's important to adjust your budget. Track your current expenses and make adjustments as necessary.
What are you spending on lunch? Calculate your spending, learn cost-cutting tips and save money.


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Friday, November 27, 2009
To Thimble or Not to Thimble?
The humble thimble is generally considered a rudimentary essential in any sewing kit. And yet, I've never used one. I actually just bought my first thimble last week! I didn't learn to hand stitch with a thimble, and I never saw the need to incorporate one. But then I realized the amount of padstitching I would be doing on my coat collar (through sturdy hair canvas, no less), and I figured it was time to see what all the thimble fuss is about. I have to say, I'm underwhelmed.
Granted, this might be my own awkwardness as a new user, but I found it a bit unwieldy, like an extra extremity to deal with. My thread kept slipping out of my needle and I suddenly couldn't figure out how to situate my fingers. It was like learning hand stitching all over again! I eventually just flung it off and went back to my old ways.
I was just learning padstitching, so maybe it was too much newness all at once. Or maybe I'm just not a thimble kind of gal.
What is your position on this all-important topic? Are you pro-thimble or anti-thimble? Any tips to share for new thimble users?
Also: coat updates to come! I spent HOURS yesterday padstitching, and I'm still not done with the undercollar. But, on the bright side: I'm finally getting the hang of it! And my collar is shaping up extremely well. I can't wait to show it to you!
58 comments:
- elizabetheNovember 27, 2009 at 7:16 AM
I don't have anything to weigh in on using a thimble while sewing, but that thimble in your picture is really beautiful. My Aunt, with whom I lived for a few years in college, collected thimbles. She had the these "Avon thimble ladies of fashion" and some others.ReplyDelete
I think I own a thimble. I think I even have it lyings somewhere on my sewing attic. But I used it only once, years ago, and discovered I just couldn't work with it. I felt clumsy and in the end even frustrated, so I put it away and never used it again. I do think it would have been good for my fingers though, because I do prick myself now and then so I am building up some callus (is that the word? Sounds so strange) on my fingertips :-)ReplyDelete
I own two thimbles and have yet to use either. I bought one not long ago because I was done counting the number of times I'd hurt myself when trying to push a needle through a tough piece of fabric; and I found the other recently in a box of stuff which I must have bought, never used, packed away when moving, and then clean forgotten about. I keep telling myself that I must remember to use one, but as it involves hunting around in one of my many badly organised sewing boxes, then alternating between thimble on/ thimble off because I can't actually sew with one on, I usually give up and go back to pushing the needle in with the help of my scissors or whatever hard surface I can find.ReplyDelete
I remember my grandmother sewing with a thimble on, very quickly and accurately, so maybe it is a matter of persevering to build up the skill. In the meantime, I continue to hurt myself, regularly.
My grandmother, a first-class embroiderer, is a great believer in the thimble. She uses a thimble every time she sews or embroiders and has tried to show me how to use it for ages. In fact, she scoffs at me every time she sees me without one and keeps stressing the importance of the thimble. Still, I just can't seem to see any use in the thimble. I have only occasionally used it if the fabric I had to work with is really tough. But there must be some magic to the thimble since generations of sewers have used it. Maybe it's just a matter of practice and suddenly one day ta-da you can't sew without it anymore. Maybe you should give your thimble another go and wait for the magic to happen... :)ReplyDelete
I don't use a thimble myself and have only tried it once, but many quilters use a leather thimble. It seems to me that it would be a lot easier to get used to than that metal thing perched on your finger.ReplyDelete
Peter Pan hit on the one meaningful use for a thimble: as a kiss! Otherwise, I know it must be useful as so many employ them, but I personally find them uncomfortable and awkward.ReplyDelete
I use a coin thimble when I need to hand sew through patches (like boy scout merit badges) or several layers of denim. Otherwise I leave it off.ReplyDelete
I could never get the hang of thimbles until by chance I found one that was just the right size - nice and snug, not wobbling about. Now I have no problems, and it certainly helped a lot when I was learning millinery! Try a few different makes and styles and chances are you'll find one that suits you.ReplyDelete
I've used one when sequin sewing (That can be torture without one), but other than that I don't feel that I need them. They are very awkward and just always are too big for my fingers.ReplyDelete
I also bought my first thimble last week and have yet to use it, I have enough trouble hand sewing as it is and I think that the thimble will complicate matters further. My mum uses a thimble for all her hand sewing, perhaps I need a lesson!ReplyDelete
- AnonymousNovember 27, 2009 at 9:57 AM
The only thimble I've found that works for me is the leather one with the metal, dime sized, insert. If fitted tightly, it doesn't come off or feel cumbersome. Otherwise, I'd rather not have one.ReplyDelete
- Myrna
I don't do a lot of hand-sewing. When I do, I usually don't think of the thimble, unless I working with thick fabric.ReplyDelete
Finishing coats, crafting with leather... I have to use a thimble, or my finger will suffer for it.
- AnonymousNovember 27, 2009 at 10:16 AM
It's weird, but metal thimbles make my fingers sweat...not exactly pleasant. I'd rather bust out a pair of pliers or just jam my needle against a hard surface. Sure I stab myself often, but my tetanus shot is up to date and my hands are unencumbered which is the way I like things to be.ReplyDelete
Yes, I always use a thimble. I remember it took some time getting used to, but one day it happened by magic like stephanie describes it above.ReplyDelete
I have never managed to sew with a thimble on - apart from once when I'd been sewing leather with the wrong kind of needle, then it really helped! Charles Horner thimbles are exquisite and I'd learn to use one of his if one fell into my possession. I don't think home-sewers need them really but if you were pad-stitching for 12 hours all day every day, that would be a different story! Your post has got me examining my fingers - middle one is a bit leathery and the pointing one has some needle marks on it...ReplyDelete
Am looking forward to coat updates!
I picked up a leather thimble a few years ago, and I'm in love with it. I've done hand beading and some heavy duty (brocade) hand sewing with it, and I can honestly say, I think I would have given up without the leather thimble. Its extremely comfortable and saves the fingers from the backside of the needle.ReplyDelete
er... I feel a wee bit silly asking this, but what *is* padstitching? will you make a vlog to show us?ReplyDelete
on the great thimble debate, I'm actually in the market for one right now (if I make it out on black friday, that is)... I'm thinking of going the leather quilting thimble route, because they seem so much more comfortable...
I also want to know which finger it's "supposed" to go on... I've seen both index and middle....
Wow. This post makes me realize that I am thimble illiterate -- all this time I assumed, for some reason, that the thimble went over your thumb. I guess it's a good thing I haven't tried one yet!ReplyDelete
I don't always use a thimble, but I do use it often, and I really like it. I can sew a lot longer that way. I have several and keep a couple in the sewing box and a couple by the machine. Mine aren't fancy though, just plain cheap ones from Dritz.ReplyDelete
As said above the leather symbol is the way to go! I hate the metal standard thimble!ReplyDelete
- AnonymousNovember 27, 2009 at 11:21 AM
I use a thimble all the time; indeed, it feels very strange to me to sew without one. I use a so-called 'tailor's thimble' which consists of just a metal band round the tip of my finger without a top to it. This design lets one push the needle properly but still have long nails and avoids the sweaty finger issue. It's important that the thimble fits right and sits comfortably but securely without either squeezing your finger or slipping around; you really need to try on to check this. I do sometimes worry about losing my thimble since replacing it with one that fits as well could be awkward.ReplyDelete
Whilst googling leather thimbles(which I never knew existed before today...), I just found this entry on The Purlbee blog which reveals all and much more, like 'Sachiko' thimbles, and odd little fingertippy things...ReplyDelete
- AnonymousNovember 27, 2009 at 11:46 AM
I had a similar experience to your's and other people's when I first started trying to use a thimble. At first it frustrated me to no end, and I decided they were just stupid.ReplyDelete
I gradually developed a callous on my 'pushing' finger instead. That was great, up to a point. If you're doing enough handsewing and/or working with thick fabrics, the butt of the needle eventually pokes through the callous into the tender flesh underneath. "OWEEEE", to say the least.
So I put the thimble back on out of sheer self-preservation. It wasn't long before I got the knack of it. I think it's just a matter of getting used to it being on your finger, and having the right size!
Now, as a few others have commented, I can't live without it. I feel naked without it if I'm doing handstitching. And it definitely saved my poor fingy while I was doing 30-40hrs/week of handsewing over 6 months last fall/winter.
Thimbles are, indeed, one of the oldest and most persistent sewing tools for a reason!
Pro-thimble. I use a tailor's thimble or an open leather thimble.ReplyDelete
Fit is critical and you need to learn to keep your middle finger curled just right.
You might try a band-aid around your middle finger with the padding where you push the needle. That can be an effective thimble substitute.
i never use a thimble. :)ReplyDelete
Gertie, in my view the thimble is pretty indispensible when hand-sewing. It does have to fit. Also, wear it on the third finger of your working hand. Take 3 or 4 stitches (if running) and then push with the thimble. I often push with the top of the finger so wouldn't use the open thimble. I do use a leather thimble as well as a metal one, but I often prefer metal.ReplyDelete
Even if you grip the needle between the pads of your fingers and push, I find the fingers get sore. Since I've been sewing more by hand I've realised the thimble is a really great invention.
I never used a thimble until I attempted (once) to hand-make a quilt. It was pain that drove me to it. The leather deal is definitely the way to go. IMHO. I decided to stick with dressmaking.ReplyDelete
Gertie, I don't use a thimble either - it feels to me like it did for you. But...I found these sticky pads at Hancock's that I absolutely love. You get 3 sheets of elipical clear plastic pads. They've got a sticky side that sticks to your finger. Use one until it no longer sticks to your finger and then use a new one. I think they cost me only a dollar or two for the packet. They are usually in the quilting area of a store.ReplyDelete
I too think that a thimble is indispensable when working with leather or thick fabrics. It is also extremely important that the thimble fit. The leather ones see like a great idea. I've never used one, but I have used a scrap of leather tied around my finger in a pinch. I think it's best to used on the middle finger, but that's because I tend to use my middle finger for everything...ReplyDelete
I can never keep a thimble on my finger! Go you with the padstitching... this coat is going to be gorgeous. All the shaping is worth it, even if hand stitching (at least to me) is tedious.ReplyDelete
Thanks for your compliment on my jacket. The lining is a poly charmeuse that was on sale at Joann fabrics a few years ago. I bought all that was left, about 10 yards, and use it to line all the jackets I make!
- SiriusmomNovember 27, 2009 at 3:31 PM
I use a thimble any time I do handwork- the kind that is just a plastic band with leather to keep the needle form slipping. If I don't my finger feels naked! They do take practice, and must fit fairly snug.ReplyDelete
It is worth it though not to stab your finger!
I've always used a thimble. Cannot hand-sew without one.ReplyDelete
Not for me. I've seen them around of course, but I hate hand stitching and can't even imagine how this would work using one. I'd feel like a phony I reckon!ReplyDelete
i've tried using a thimble too, but most of the time i end up just pushing the needle through the fabric with whatever finger doesn't have the thimble on it. Very occasionally when i'm sewing something really stiff i'll use it, but otherwise if my finger(s) are getting sore i sometimes use some leukoplast tape over the end of my finger to give a bit of protection like the thimble would but not be all weird and unwieldy like you said.ReplyDelete
I can't wait to see the coat!
@ramona - Pad stitches are used to secure the canvas to the underfabric, and more importantly, to keep the canvas in the right shape. Collars and lapels on coats, jackets and coatees are made up of several layers of fabric, and are rolled. By cutting the layers of fabric different lengths, and pad stitching them together, the collar and lapel can maintain the rolled shape.ReplyDelete
I'm in the thimble camp, though I don't do enough hand sewing to bother with one most of the time. third finger, no doubts.
- AnonymousNovember 27, 2009 at 7:29 PM
hi, yes i have to admit I have tried them and I do own a few, but find them rather cumbersome. Funnily enough I find that the finger wearing the thing tends to stick up out of the wayand defeats the purpose. I have tried the Japanese one and its kind of better but i'd rather not use one!ReplyDelete
Thimbles blow. I love your blog, by the way.ReplyDelete
I have nails so thimbles are outReplyDelete
Oh how I wish I knew how to use a thimble. My fingers ache for days after a long stretch of handsewing as I have never mastered the art. They either fall off of my fingers or feel very awkward. I read through all of these comments and am going to try some of these tips myself. My fingertips will thank me I'm sure!ReplyDelete
I'll use a leather thimble (just a sheath made of scrap buckskin) for quilting or particularly tough hand-sewing, as it's thin enough not to interfere with dexterity. I never liked metal ones.ReplyDelete
- AnonymousNovember 28, 2009 at 1:05 AM
I'd prefer a leather thimble to the traditional thimble.ReplyDelete
As long as I did light embroidery, I'd wear a thimble, but never used it really. I became an addict when I started quilting, and also doing more serious embroidery. Now I can't take a needle without puttin a thimble on my finger. But at the beginning, I felt very much like you do now.ReplyDelete
And this thimble you have is beautiful, really. If you finally don't use it, make a giveway with it, maybe I could win it :-)
As a hand-quilter, thimbles are a necessity for me. I embroidered for years without using one...like you, I found them unwieldy and uncomfortable.ReplyDelete
Really, what I found, though, is that it takes practice and the right thimble. Personally, I hate the leather thimbles. I inevitably end up poking through them. The leather/metal coin combos don't work for me, either--the needle always manages to slide between the leather and metal. I'm a fan of the old-fashioned metal thimble. BUT, I'm super particular about which one. I've got a dozen metal thimbles, all seemingly the same, but only one fits right. It's cheap and turns my finger green, but I don't care :)
Also, as a side note, I find those little rubber fingers that you use for sorting papers (these things) to be quite helpful when worn on the index finger. It gives you the little extra grip to really grab on to the needles an pull. (So you don't have to resort to using your teeth...which is why I have a small chip in my front tooth.)
- AnonymousNovember 28, 2009 at 11:46 PM
I have not yet been able to work with a thimble. They make me clumbsy and unable to do other important sewing moves with the finger that is thimbled. However reading here I think I have been using the thimble on the wrong finger. I have put it on my second finger. I will try putting it on the third. I love the beauty of thimbles and I believe in the need for them, now if I can learn to use one.ReplyDelete
I can't work with thimbles. I have a smaller version of my dad's hands. They're wide. So are my fingers. And putting on a thimble hurts because my fingers don't fit in them.ReplyDelete
However... Occasionally, I use them anyway when I'm sewing through many layers of fabric by hand. I don't like it when my fingers start to look like pincushions!
- AnonymousNovember 29, 2009 at 3:08 AM
i had never used a thimble either, as i found them too large and clumsy, untill i came across this article http://www.englishcut.com/archives/000143.htmlReplyDelete
which spells out the need for and the correct way to use a thimble. i dont use them for sewing fine fabrics, but for buttons and anything midweight or heavier they are now a neccessity.
- AnonymousNovember 29, 2009 at 12:46 PM
I haven't yet found a thimble that fits, but in the mean time I've got a step in between: stick-on thimble pads. My mom found them with quilting supplies somewhere. I have pierced them more than once trying to push through something tough, but for everyday save-your-skin type work, they are great. You still have some sensation, they don't slip, don't cause your skin to sweat, and work well both on the "push" finger and the "find the needle on the other side" finger ;).ReplyDelete
- H. D. ChildreeNovember 29, 2009 at 9:20 PM
I own about 3 thimbles (one plastic and 2 metal). I've never used the plastic one, but I have used the metal ones when I need to push a needle through tough fabric. I don't do a lot of handsewing (since I prefer to sew by machine), but when I do have those difficult pieces a thimble keeps me from injuring myself worse than usual.ReplyDelete
This comment has been removed by the author.ReplyDelete
I sometimes use a thimble, when working with thick fabric. What I've found that really helps me, is I squished the metal together so the thimble fits snug on my finger. It doesn't look as pretty, but it works much better!ReplyDelete
I used to be whole-heartedly anti-thimble and then got a job in a more formal tailor shop than I was used to. I was apprenticing with the master tailor who had learned everything the old fashioned way in Greece. He not only insisted that I learn to use a thimble, but that I WOULD use it and learn the same way he did. He gave me an open ended "tailor's thimble", threaded a ribbon through it, placed it on my finger and tied it all into the right position. I even had to eat lunch that way! I wish I could show you a picture of how awkward that was, but I learned! And now I ALWAYS use a thimbleReplyDelete
- Pamela DDecember 1, 2009 at 2:26 AM
I always use a thimble. Basically I don't like getting blood on my sewing or needlework projects. And I will eventually stab myself without a thimble.ReplyDelete
I do a lot of embroidery and smocking and it's just much faster with a thimble. When I took a tailoring class at FIT, we were required to use an open-ended tailor's thimble for all the padstitching. If you are using real haircloth canvas for the lapels and especially the French canvas in the collar, it's necessary.
I have a small colleciton of thimbles, but my favourite is a lovely silver one.
I have used them at times when I needed to stitch through thick items. (I sometimes find the need for them when repairing stuffed animals!!) I do not like using them as I also find them to be unwieldy. My grandmother used one all the time. I don't even think she realized she had one on her finger as she worked!ReplyDelete
I cannot pick up a threaded needle without having a thimble on. I use an open-ended, tailor's thimble, and I am sorry that many folks can't abide them.ReplyDelete
I used to sew for a living, and for fun, and let met tell ya, a thimble is one of the first tools to have.
- AnonymousDecember 28, 2009 at 4:07 PM
I could never manage a metal thimble; they wobbled around and fell off. But leather? That works for me. It softens and moulds around the finger with the heat of the skin. It has a little metal disc at the very tip sewn between two layers of leather and a split at the top for the fingernail. Perfect. Incidentally, this wasn't stocked in the sewing notions of my local store; it is stocked with the quilting notions and I found it when I completed the hand-quilting on a queen-sized quilt. Let's just say I went through TWO thimbles with that project. :)ReplyDelete
I haven't got nothing in common with sewing using a thimble, but thimbles could be also very interesting object of collecting and admiration (especially those made of porcelain). Check out my page. Greetings from Poland. /mythimblecollection.blogspot.comReplyDelete
I use a thimble most of the time I'm sewing.I didn't in the past, and I remember finding them clumsy.ReplyDelete
Then I started using one (I think I was doing a lot of handsewing and peircing my fingertip with the back of the needle far more than I liked as I was using a particularly fine needle)and never looked back. I will even use a badly fitting thimble in preference to none.
I have a few (I don't know where they all came from) and some are better than others. If it fits well, I forget its there and walk off to answer the phone with it still on....
This page came up during a search for a tailors' thimble. I was taught how to use one about 70 years ago and find it hard to sew without one. Over the years, I've seen people use the top to push the needle and that seems awkward and requires repositioning the hand. I use the open ended thimble. The fingers curl as a group with the needle held with the index finger and thumb. The thimble is on the middle finger *right next to the index finger*. The stitch is taken and those two fingers work together to push on the back of the needle to complete the stitch.ReplyDelete


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On the other hand, justifications exist for voting third party in the 2012 presidential election. At the Daily Beast, Michael Tomasky alludes to one.
Liberals are too nervous to think it, reporters too intent on a "down to the wire" narrative, and conservatives too furious and disbelieving, but it's shaping up to be true: An extremely close election that on election night itself stands a surprisingly good chance of being not that close at all.
In other words, if Candidate X, who we dread, seems unlikely to win, we can afford to vote for a Candidate Z, about whom we're enthusiastic, rather than Candidate Y, who has the best chance of blocking him or her. The more salient justification, however, presents itself when the extent to which Candidate Y (President Obama, in this case) reflects the interests of the rich and favors an expansionist foreign policy to only a marginally less degree than Candidate X (Romney). When the difference in the threat that the two candidates pose to the republic is negligible we need to find an alternative to both.
After the Green Party convention, where Jill Stein was nominated for president and Cheri Honkala for vice president, Nora Caplan-Bricker of the New Republic reported on yet another reason for voting third party.
By far the most common answer to my question—"Why vote for a candidate who won't win?"—is that it's important to "vote your values." Greens talk about voting as a form of self-expression, as if it's irrelevant whether you put someone in office by doing it. … Stein says her campaign is like "political therapy" for people who have had "self-destructive relationships to politics, like being stuck in an abusive relationship." And her supporters think it will eventually work: Greens between the ages of 27 and 92 told me they think it's possible they'll see a president from the party in their lifetimes—that if they keep offering "political therapy," mainstream voters who are frustrated by politics will start to want it: maybe in four years, maybe in eight, maybe in 50 or more.
At the New York Times, Susan Saulny reported:
A general internist who grew impatient with the social and environmental roots of disease, Ms. Stein said, 'I'm now practicing political medicine because politics is the mother of all illnesses.'"
In other words, shifting the electorate to where it will stop voting out of fear is a long process, but one that needs to begin at some point.
Ms. Stein and Ms. Honkala's key platform, reports Yana Kunichoff at Truthout, "is the Green New Deal, a jobs program which she says will both build on the success of the New Deal in the 1930s and also help move the United States toward a sustainable, green economy." As an example of their foreign policy platform, which fundamentally revolves around drastically cutting military spending, let's examine excerpts from their stance towards Israel and Palestine.
We recognize that Jewish insecurity and fear of non-Jews is understandable in light of Jewish history of horrific oppression in Europe. However, we oppose as both discriminatory and ultimately self-defeating the position that Jews would be fundamentally threatened by the implementation of full rights to Palestinian-Israelis and Palestinian refugees who wish to return to their homes. …. We reaffirm the right and feasibility of Palestinian refugees to return to their homes in Israel. … We reject U.S. unbalanced financial and military support of Israel while Israel occupies Palestinian lands and maintains an apartheid-like system in both the Occupied Palestinian Territories and in Israel toward its non-Jewish citizens. Therefore, we call on the U.S. President and Congress to suspend all military and foreign aid, including loans and grants, to Israel until Israel withdraws from the Occupied Territories, dismantles the separation wall in the Occupied West Bank including East Jerusalem, ends its siege of Gaza and its apartheid-like system both within the Occupied Palestinian Territories and in Israel toward its non-Jewish citizens.
For those of us who refuse to be guilt-tripped with charges of vote-wasting … for those of us who are tired of dragging ourselves into the polling both with heavy hearts and with only a sense of obligation — a vote for the Green Party's presidential ticket is not just a vote against two parties that reflect the interests of a small minority of citizens, but a vote against the act of holding your nose while voting.
In other words, a vote for the Green Party is a vote for voting. And a vote for voting is also a vote for democracy.


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GOP insiders are convinced that Mitt Romney will pick Bat Boy as his Vice Presidential nominee.
According to sources close to the Romney camp, Bat Boy could get the nod as soon as this week. Campaign insiders say that Mitt Romney has looked at Marco Rubio, Condoleezza Rice, Rob Portman and Chris Christie as possible running mates, but he feels that Bat Boy will give him the "sizzle" his campaign sorely needs.
"Bat Boy is from West Virginia and really understands the struggles that the middle class is going through," said a Romney advisor. "With Bat Boy on the ticket, the Republicans should be able to carry the south, the midwest and all the Hollywood who all love mutants.
Some inside the Republican party are not happy with Bat Boy as the VP choice. Karl Rove is said to be working overtime on a smear campaign to destroy Bat Boy's credibility.
"Since that college professor pulled him out of a cave in West Virginia in 1992, he's never fully acclimated to human culture, and he has a reputation for doing what the hell he wants to do regardless of the consequences," said Rove.
But the Romney camp is not worried about Rove. "Bat Boy's past is unusual, anyway, so there's no doubt Rove and his minions, can make some hay with it," said a campaign insider. "But we think we are making a great choice. He's certainly a much better choice than Sarah Palin."
The Obama campaign has no comment on Bat Boy as the VP nominee, but clearly they are worried. "Except for Richard Nixon, there's never really been a mutant running for office. So, we will have to rethink our strategy."
As for the legality of Bat Boy running for vice president, Republicans have determined that because the famed imp was born in the United States, he is a citizen despite the fact that he's not entirely human.
He is thought to be just 16 or 17 years old, adds the Republican source, "but if you measure his age in bat years, he's more like 179, plenty old enough to qualify for the No. 2 spot."
Romney plans on making his announcement about Bat Boy in a cave in West Virginia. 99% of bats have already pledged their support.


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Tuesday, September 21, 2010
Halloween Birthday Bash Card with SEI
This scalloped card base was cut at 5-1/2" using Cricut Cartridge Birthday Bash cartridge. I love the little scallops along the edge. Love the card feature on this cartridge - it is the hidden gem here!! The tree outline with the bird and moon is cut from Cricut Lite Celebrate with Flourish cartridge at 3-1/4".
Don't you LOVE this new SEI Spooks paper set? It's so glittery and metallic! All paper but the background cardstock are from this Spooks paper set. Cardstock is from Core'dinations.
I always LOVE putting some paper on the inside of the card - just to dress it up a little!
Ribbon is from Papertrey Ink. I popdotted the center section to give a little ummpph. Stamp is from this month's Close to My Heart monthly stamp set.
Tune in tomorrow for more Halloween fun with new SEI paper and iron-ons!
Also, if you're getting in the Christmas spirit, head over to Everyday Cricut to see some of our best Christmas projects from last year!
Subscribe to Obsessed with Scrapbooking to learn more about ways to use the Cricut in your scrapbooking! This post may contain affiliate links, which help subsidize my diet coke and coffee intake, necessary to run this blog.
87 comments:
Great card...I just love all the cards you design! I agree...the papers great!ReplyDelete
great card and great paper!!ReplyDelete
Fantastic card, I am a big fan of the SEI paper. You are so creative, you blog is great. Thanks for all the ideals that you have shared with all of us.ReplyDelete
That is some yummy paper! That card feature is a huge plus in my book!ReplyDelete
That is some yummy paper! That card feature is a huge plus in my book!ReplyDelete
Oh I love this, the paper is just beautiful.ReplyDelete
Love this card and that is my favorite cartridge. Seems like I am always reaching for it. I made a Halloween card on my blog with shoes. Take a look and let me know what you think...
Blog: http://lovethatexpressions.blogspot.com/
Its so pretty . I love the colorsReplyDelete
Love the silver accents.ReplyDelete
Very cute! Love the papers!ReplyDelete
I love all of the different patterned papers that you used. They work so well together.ReplyDelete
This card is so cute! I love it! And those SEI papers are so yummy!!!ReplyDelete
- Teresa KaufholdSeptember 21, 2010 at 7:45 PM
Joy... I just love everything you do! I have Celebrate with Flourish and didn't even notice that cut! Thanks for sharing!ReplyDelete
This is such a perfect Halloween card--not evil, yet a little eerie!ReplyDelete
Fabulous! I am loving the Halloween inspiration!ReplyDelete
Love this card...such cool paper! Great touch on the inside too. :-) TFSReplyDelete
I LOVE this paper! Thanks for sharing such a fabulous card. :)ReplyDelete
Love that card. I am a huge fan of SEI -- they have some really cute papers this season. I love this card and paper..ReplyDelete
I really like the elements of this card--enough interest, but yet, not too busy. Nice!ReplyDelete
really love the card Joy, thanks woohoo so much fun always here.ReplyDelete
ANY ONE ELSE HAVE TROUBLE with the word verification on these blogs? I have to try my post 2 times, then second time the word will pop up for me to copy. It makes posting take twice as long
Love the colors and the card come out just beautiful love it!!!ReplyDelete
great card!!!!! luv the awesome paper you use......ReplyDelete
I really love this card Joy! The colors and the cut are great. I've had a spooky tree on my mind all week just didn't know what to do with it.ReplyDelete
Love it! Gotta have this cartridge.ReplyDelete
The cards keep getting better and better. TFS!!!ReplyDelete
I love this card! Halloween is my favorite holiday! Thanks for the inspiration!ReplyDelete
Great card!!!ReplyDelete
Okay..another cartridge on my wish list..it would be worth it just for the scalloped card..love, love this card..love, love the paper...ReplyDelete
LOVE this card!!!! The papers are awesome!!! Joy, you continually amaze me with your fantastic talent! Thanks so much for sharing your (EEK!) SPOOKTACULAR card!!! ;)ReplyDelete
very nice cardReplyDelete
I love this card! The colors are awesome and I love how you combined all of the pattern paper together! I love the inside also!ReplyDelete
I just love Halloween! This is such a great card.ReplyDelete
- Cardian AngelSeptember 22, 2010 at 7:28 AM
Love this card--the paper designs and colors. Really like all the mats you used.ReplyDelete
pwburns at nemr dot net
Really cool card! The layout is great and the paper is awesome!ReplyDelete
Thanks for sharing
The paper inside is a very nice touch.ReplyDelete
Great card, I love that tree, I so wish I could get that cartridge! TFS!ReplyDelete
Absolutely adorable! TFS.ReplyDelete
Great card....love itReplyDelete
I love the paper you used !! Great halloween card!!ReplyDelete
I am SO in love with your card, Joy! WOW! I need Birthday Bash asap! LOL! Love love love it!ReplyDelete
Soooo goolish! Love it. TFS.ReplyDelete
Donna C.
- AnonymousSeptember 22, 2010 at 8:31 AM
I love making halloween cards. Yours are too cute. Thanks for the inspiration!!ReplyDelete
what a super cute halloween card - and all made without a halloween cart! awesome and very creative!ReplyDelete
- LizW in TXSeptember 22, 2010 at 8:46 AM
Fantastic card! You amaze me with your ideas and also the carts that you use. Really had no idea that these two carts could be used to create such wonderful halloween cards. Thanks so much!ReplyDelete
LizW in TX.
Very cute Halloween card Joy! The papers are intriguing!ReplyDelete
- Teresa KSeptember 22, 2010 at 8:49 AM
Just love the paper and love the design! Great job, as always!ReplyDelete
Wonderful card!! Love that paper! :)ReplyDelete
- AnonymousSeptember 22, 2010 at 9:04 AM
I love Halloween and I love that cute card you made for today! AndreaReplyDelete
Love the tree, bird, and moon! Have to have this cart, now, too! Colors and treatment -- awesome, as always!ReplyDelete
This is a really cute card!ReplyDelete
Love your card..You know I still haven't tried SU paper.This is just so beautifulReplyDelete
Spookilicious...thanks so much for sharinga.ReplyDelete
I love this card. The papers are gorgeous and the way you mixed them really adds an eye-catching flare to it.ReplyDelete
Cindy A.
I really like how you put this together. Great card.ReplyDelete
Such a cute card! Great paper!ReplyDelete
Just got that Lite cartridge so now I have a great idea to use it. Thanks.ReplyDelete
Former Hawaii girl
I LOVE that PAPER JOY! :o) Oh Crap...now I have to goooooo and get some! :o) Your card is very Spooky Cool! :o)ReplyDelete
Love your card! The papers are gorgeous! Love the tree from CWF, I've got to get this cart.ReplyDelete
great card! the papers look so great. LOVE it. Thanks for all the work you do for us.ReplyDelete
Love the card. The choice of papers is perfect.ReplyDelete
Love this card!ReplyDelete
Cool card! I love the layers and the papers!ReplyDelete
I love the papers and the lay out of the card.ReplyDelete
Fabulous card! I'm going to have to rethink that cartridge!ReplyDelete
SusanJ in Atlanta
Great card! Love the paper.ReplyDelete
You are blowing me away with these awesome cards! I love this one!ReplyDelete
- MaryellenSeptember 22, 2010 at 4:08 PM
This card turned out so cute! LoveReplyDelete
the colorful Halloween paper by SEI.
oh, Joy, love your cardReplyDelete
the paper is darling
Oh my favorite holiday! And I love the paper...Looks excellent Joy!ReplyDelete
LOVE the colors and the card.. WANT this cartridge! :)ReplyDelete
Ijust love this shape from CWF. I just got this cartridge and have used it quite a bit already.ReplyDelete
I soooooo think you did a fab job on this card.ReplyDelete
- AnonymousSeptember 22, 2010 at 6:35 PM
Just love the patterned paper:) and I also loved how much detail it add to the inside of the card.ReplyDelete
Monica L.
monita23 at ca dot rr dot com
i love the small bit of green in the treeReplyDelete
Joy, I am new to the Blog world. Didn't know what I was missing. Thanks for mentioning us NEWBIES and your patience. I will definitely visit your Blog often. Thanks! Great work.ReplyDelete
like it. I like that you put pattern paper inside alsoReplyDelete
Love the tree, I would of never thought of putting white behind it to make it stand out.ReplyDelete
angel hugs
This card ROCKS!!!ReplyDelete
Great card, beautiful die cut and those papers are gorgeous.ReplyDelete
Kim xXx
What great papers! I love the idea of using that tree and bird and doing it in black makes it very "Halloweeny"!ReplyDelete
Love the card!ReplyDelete
Love it that we can make so many designs for our cards!ReplyDelete
Blessings, Donna
Fabulous Halloween card! I linked to it from today's scrapbook news at http://exm.nr/br6X83 :) Enjoy your day!ReplyDelete
- AnonymousSeptember 24, 2010 at 4:04 PM
Joy, just love your halloween card.ReplyDelete
I LOVE Halloween done with class...awesome card!ReplyDelete
Thanks so much for commenting! I love to hear from you!
Note: Only a member of this blog may post a comment.


text:
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I just wanted to extend a huge thank you to you for your service. After I recently had a terrible experience with a plumber and needed help finding someone that would do my job honestly, at a reasonable rate. I used eLocal and literally within 10 minutes I had 5 replies from plumbers in my area that were willing to help. I have an appointment this Thursday morning so hopefully all will go well. In the meantime, keep up the great work! Thanks Again.
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text:
Pharma-line S 1-1.2
The Pharma-line is a high quality tubular heat exchanger designed to operate in the pharmaceutical and biotech industries. There are different executions available for different duties and demands. All Pharma-line products are designed in-line with regulations within this industry. It is suitable for heating and cooling of products intended for the pharmaceutical industry, mainly water For Injection (WFI) and Purified Water (PW) and some non-viscous pharmaceutical products.
Technical details
Flow rate tube side (kg/h)6000 kg/h
Temp. in tube side (°C)20 °C
Temp. out tube side (°C)65 °C
Heating mediaSteam 3 barg
Steam pressure shell side (barg)3 barg
Temp. out shell side (°C)143 °C
Surface roughness0,4µm EP (Electro polished)
Design pressure (bar)10 bar
Design temperature (°C)150 °C
Tube velocity (m/s)0,9 m/s


text:
I created a video explaining all the different Printing Materials I offer. Its my first video so its a little rough. Feel free to contact me with any questions. Thanks, Brad
2018 Fourth of July Game - Five
Werner Park, Papillion, NE
2018 Omaha Storm Chasers Fourth of July Game, Werner Park, Papillion, NE. Photo © copyright by Brad Williams.
Traditional Photo Print
A high quality traditional photo print. Light sensitive cromogenic papers are exposed in a digital enlarger like a LightJet or Chromira then processed in RA4 chemistry. Photo will most likely be printed on Kodak's Professional Endura paper or may be on Fuji's Chrystal Archive paper.
Please allow 2 weeks for delivery.
Duraplaq Float Plaq, Ready to Hang
Recycled, eco-friendly wood, coated a black with acid-free moisture resistant barrier. The piece is finished with 3/16 of an inch black beveled edge, and ready to hang on the wall.
Please allow 4 weeks for delivery. (4 weeks is the current average, but can vary)
Canvas, Ready to Hang
Printed on Canvas and stretched. Canvas prints are ready to hang without any framing required.
Please allow 7-10 business days for delivery.
Infused Metal, Ready to Hang
High Gloss Infused Metal Print. The AlumaPress product features a dye-sublimation ink transfer to aluminum. A white base infused print illustrates a traditional print appearance adding a depth and richness of color. This is a remarkably modern presentation playing up the unique, boldness of metal with a super gloss finish. A protective, acid-free black coating is applied to the back of the infused metal and is completed with a black 1/2" recessed backing with concealed French cleat hanger to give it a floating effect when mounted on the wall and is ready to hang.
Please allow 4 weeks for delivery. (4 weeks is the current average, but can vary)
Archival Ink Print
Archival Inks on a Satin Epson photo paper.
Please allow 7-10 business days for delivery.
E-Mount, Ready to Hang
E Mounts are a luster print mounted onto a lightweight and durable sheet of E-Panel (two piece's of aluminum sandwiched over an extruded PVC core). They are then protected with a pearl laminate. E-Mount come ready to hang. The E Mount looks great but is not perfect. If you get really close, you may see minor blemishes. However these quickly disappear by stepping back from the print and viewing at a normal distance.
Please allow 7-10 business days for delivery..
Acrylic, Ready to Hang
Duraplaq Acrylic PlexiPlaq, Ready to Hang
Using exclusive high grade acrylic, PlexiPlaqs are a resoundingly unique way to present the photographs with superior clarity and durability. DuraPlaq® believes in providing the best products to customers and uses only the highest quality, premium museum-grade acrylic on the market. Partnering superior ultra violet light protection and a scratch resistance coating, this acrylic product has superior durability and protection. A DuraPlaq® fine art print is face mounted in a fully acid-free manner. The front face is finished with a beveled edge to prevent crazing or cracking along the edges with regular cleaning. A protective, acid-free black coating is applied to the back of the acrylic face-mounted print and completed with a black 0.5" recessed backing with concealed French cleat hanger to give it a floating effect when mounted on the wall. This product comes ready to hang.
Please allow 4 weeks for delivery. (4 weeks is the current average, but can vary)


text:
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The 9-year-old girl who got New Jersey's tough-guy governor to shed a tear as he comforted her after her home was destroyed is bummed because she now lives far from her best friend and has nowhere to hang her One Direction posters.
A New Jersey woman whose home was overtaken by mold still cries when she drives through the area. A New York City man whose home burned can't wait to build a new one.
Six months after Superstorm Sandy devastated the Jersey shore and New York City and pounded coastal areas of New England, the region is dealing with a slow and frustrating, yet often hopeful, recovery. Tens of thousands of people remain homeless. Housing, business, tourism and coastal protection all remain major issues with the summer vacation — and hurricane — seasons almost here again.
'Some families and some lives have come back together quickly and well, and some people are up and running almost as if nothing ever happened, and for them it's been fine,' New York Gov. Andrew Cuomo said at a news conference Thursday. 'Some people are still very much in the midst of recovery. You still have people in hotel rooms, you still have people doubled up, you still have people fighting with insurance companies, and for them it's been terrible and horrendous.'
Lynda Fricchione's flood-damaged home in the Ortley Beach section of Toms River, N.J., is gutted; the roof was fixed just last week.
The family is still largely living out of cardboard boxes in an apartment. But waiting for a final decision from federal and state authorities over new flood maps that govern the price of flood insurance is tormenting her and many others.
'The largest problem is, nobody really knows how high we're going to have to elevate the house,' she said. 'At town hall they told us 5 feet, but then they said it might go down to 3 feet in the summer. Most of us are waiting until the final maps come out. It's wait-and-see.'
But more than anything, Fricchione is optimistic, buoyed by a recent trip to New Orleans with her daughter during which they met a resident of the Lower Ninth Ward who was one of the first to move back in after Hurricane Katrina inundated the neighborhood that has become a symbol of flood damage — and resilience.
'Talking to that man was wonderful!' Fricchione said. 'He said it takes time and you just have to have hope and know it will all work out eventually.'
By many measures, the recovery from Superstorm Sandy, which struck Oct. 29, has been slow. From Maryland to New Hampshire, the National Hurricane Center attributes 72 deaths directly to Sandy and 87 others indirectly from causes such as hypothermia due to power outages, carbon monoxide poisoning and accidents during cleanup efforts, for a total of 159.
The roller coaster that plunged off a pier in Seaside Heights, N.J., is still in the ocean, although demolition plans are finally moving forward. Scores of homes that were destroyed in nearby Mantoloking still look as they did the day after the storm — piles of rubble and kindling, with the occasional bathroom fixture or personal possession visible among the detritus.
Throughout the region, many businesses are still shuttered, and an already-tight rental market has become even more so because of the destruction of thousands of units and the crush of displaced storm victims looking to rent the ones that survived.
Homeowners are tortured by uncertainty over ever-changing rules on how high they'll need to rebuild their homes to protect against the next storm; insurance companies have not paid out all that many homeowners expected; and municipalities are borrowing tens of millions of dollars to keep the lights on, the fire trucks running and the police stations staffed, waiting for reimbursement from the federal government for storm expenditures they had to fund out of pocket.
And yet, by other measures, remarkable progress has been made. Boardwalks, the tourism lifeblood of the region, are springing back to life. A handful of homes are going up, and the whine of power saws and the thwack of hammers is everywhere in hard-hit beach towns as contractors fix what can be saved and bulldozers knock down what can't.
Volunteers in Highlands, N.J., are rebuilding the home of Bromlyn Link, the single mother of a 17-year-old boy, both of whom are members of the town's first aid squad and who spent 12 to 14 hours a day helping friends and neighbors forced to live in shelters for weeks after the storm.
Mantoloking, which was cut in half by the storm and saw all 521 of its homes damaged or destroyed, is creeping back to life. The post office recently, reopened, and the first of 50 demolitions will start next week, which is also when Mayor George Nebel will join the 40 other residents who have been able to move back home.
Beaches that were washed away are coming back, due both to nature and bulldozers, and real estate agents say demand for this strangest of upcoming summers appears good, particularly in the large portions of the Jersey shore that were relatively unscathed by Sandy. Beach badges, required for access to most of New Jersey's shoreline, are selling at a near-record pace in Belmar, N.J.
And while towns fortify beaches and dunes and put up sea walls, rock barriers or even sand-filled fabric tubes to guard against future storms, state governments are readying hundreds of millions of dollars to buy out homeowners in flood-prone areas who want to leave.
'We've made a lot of progress in six months; I know we still have a long way to go,' New Jersey Gov. Chris Christie said at a recent town hall meeting. 'By Memorial Day, every boardwalk that was destroyed at the Jersey shore will be rebuilt. Businesses are reopening. Rentals are picking up again, roads are back open.'
Christie estimated 39,000 New Jersey families remain displaced, down from 161,000 the day after the storm. In New York, more than 250 families are still living in hotel rooms across New York paid for by the Federal Emergency Management Agency, while others are still shacking up with relatives or living in temporary rentals.
Everyone simply wants to make their homes livable again, said Ray Marten, whose home in the Belle Harbor section of New York City's Queens borough burned down when a fire swept along his street during the storm, and whose family of six is renting a nearby house.
'If you go up my block now, all the houses have been demolished and removed,' Marten said. 'They're pretty much just holes in the ground. Sand pits.'
Separation is the new reality for the Gatti family, a clan of several generations that shared the same three-story home near the ocean on Staten Island until Sandy destroyed it.
The flood-soaked place was demolished months ago, and they're waiting for a government buyout. Now the family is scattered across New Jersey, New York and Texas.
'The whole family's separated,' said Marge Gatti, the matriarch. 'And it's terrible, you know?'
Her son, Anthony, recently drove a U-Haul packed with his meager belongings to Killeen, Texas, where he will start a new life as a car mechanic.
'Mentally, I'm not all that well in the head,' said Anthony Gatti, who slept in a tent in front of the ruined home for weeks after the storm. 'I know I've got to get some kind of help. I can't seem to shake it out of my life.'
Ginjer Doherty was 9 years old when Sandy bubbled up through the floor of her Middletown, N.J., home and ripped the front wall off it. She and her parents went to a firehouse a few days later to see Christie talk about what was being done to recover.
The governor comforted Ginjer, telling her she would be all right, that the grown-ups were on top of things and would take care of her. Ginjer recently had an essay published in Time magazine recalling the encounter and describing her life after Sandy.
'My house was all messed up, and people told us we couldn't stay there anymore,' she wrote. 'The governor told me not to worry — that my parents would take care of everything — and he looked very serious and sad, and he cried.
'Things are going O.K. for my family,' she wrote. 'We want to go back home, but rebuilding is going to take a long time. But we have a place to live for now. I even rescued a cat that was homeless after Sandy; I wanted him to be safe and loved like I feel.'
In an interview with The Associated Press, Ginjer, now 10, said she is sad that her home won't be ready until October; her mom says it has been gutted and needs to be elevated.
Of the delay, Ginjer said simply, 'It stinks.'
Sandy also damaged interior areas, particularly those along rivers in northern New Jersey. Cities including Hoboken and Jersey City were inundated, and officials continue try seek exemptions for skyscrapers and large apartments from federal rules requiring flood-prone buildings to be elevated.
George Stauble, whose Little Ferry house took in four feet of water, said FEMA payouts caused some rifts between neighbors.
'Everybody's house had pretty much the same amount of damage, but people are getting different amounts of money, and that's caused some problems,' he said, adding some homeowners received as little as $8,000, while others received as much as $29,000.


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©2012 copyright by the U.S. Secretary of Commerce on behalf of the United States of America. All rights reserved.
Distributed by the Measurement Services Division of the National Institute of Standards and Technology
(NIST) Material Measurement Laboratory (MML). NIST is an agency of the U.S. Department of Commerce


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Encore Natural Healing - Indian Experience
August 2, 2021
Hosted by Sharon Kleyne
[Download MP3] [itunes] [Bookmark Episode]
Guest Information
Episode Description
Annette Draper, the co-founder of The Club Northwest, a Première health club in Oregon has just returned from Indian. She will share her personal experience about natural healing in India.
Sharon Kleyne Hour
Monday at 10 AM Pacific Time on VoiceAmerica Variety Channel and Wednesday 12 Noon Pacific on VoiceAmerica Health and Wellness Channel
• Power of Water / Global Warming – New and innovative wellness discoveries to help you and future generations live within our changing dry environment • Global climate change is a WATER (all-natural moisture) crisis that can cause dryness of the skin, eyes and breathing passages, in addition to spreading bacteria, viruses, allergies and numerous dehydration related diseases • Sharon Kleyne believes that each individual has the power to become proactive in maintaining their own health • Sharon and her guests offer simple, logical, do-it-yourself solutions from a non-political, common sense perspective • Weekly shows have featured experts in medicine, pharmacology, health and healing, therapeutic healing research, nutrition, occupational safety and wellness, global climate change and more. The weekly "Power of Water" segment features guests discussing the scientific, recreational and aesthetic aspects of water.
Sharon Kleyne
Sharon Kleyne is Founder, President and Research Director of Bio-Logic Aqua Technologies, the only medical/pharmaceutical company dedicated to researching water structure and hydrotherapy for human health and wellness. An inspired visionary and passionate public voice, Sharon has long been a powerful advocate for health, education and self-reliance. She is Founder of Save a Child's Life Foundation, to combat pediatric melanoma, a potentially fatal skin cancer associated with global drying. Born and raised among the rugged mountains, old growth rain forests and pristine river valleys of southwest Oregon (where her company is located), near the Pacific ocean, Sharon has always been aware of the power of water, pure and all-natural, for healthy mind, skin, eyes and body. Her company's initial pure-water product, Nature's Tears EyeMist (in drug stores nationwide), is a technological breakthrough, the only product that instantly delivers all-natural moisture (water!) to dry irritated eyes.


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Thick Cut Red Oak Mantel Slab/Kiln Dried Lumber Board 30007
Our sales staff is ready to assist you, Monday-Friday 7am-5pm & Saturday 3pm-9pm w/ extended hours Monday, Thursday & Friday until 9pm. CST Click the chat button in the lower right hand of your screen to start chatting about your project!
|Item 1
|3 1/2"
|Width at the Widest
|10 1/16"
|Width at the Narrowest
|9 13/16"
|91 1/8"
|Actual Weight
|85.5 lbs
|Wood Type
|Character Wood
|Great Character
|Taper in Thickness leaving Unsurfaced Areas on Slab up to 1/8" Deep x 2 3/8" Wide x 6 1/2" Long
|Cracks/Splits up to 5/8" Wide x 31 3/4" Long
|Inclusions & Voids
|Rustic Inclusions/Voids up to 7/8" Deep x 4 1/2" Wide x 11" Long
|Up to 1/16"
|Up to 1/16"
|Up to 1/16"
|Worm Holes/Rot
|Areas of Rot Along Edges
|Sticker Marks
|Some Sticker Marks on Unplaned Areas
|Small Areas of Wane
|Planer Snipe
|Planer Snipe up to 1/16" Deep x 9 7/8" Long
|Planed on 2 Sides
|Drying Method
|Kiln Dried
Please Read:
All of our wood is Kiln Dried and ready to be worked on by you! *Exceptions to this will be noted in the Features section.
Product Descriptions: Most of our wood has been surfaced on at least one side, with a majority being surfaced on both sides. Please check the pictures and Surfacing note on the Description tab for exact clarification on this. When boards are listed, any bow, cup, or twist that we see in the board is noted in the item description, plus or minus 1/8". Our wood is described as accurately as possible but due to the nature of highly figured and/or burled wood, minor cracking and checking might not be evident.
Be sure to read the Description points carefully for any notes regarding Fragile Boards or Soft, Punky, or Rotted areas. Items with these noted in their description will most likely need additional stabilization work done prior to finishing.
Product Pictures: For picture taking purposes, and to give you a good idea of what the slab will look like with a finish, we spray mineral spirits on slabs that are over 3/4" thick. Slabs that are 3/4" thick and under are sometimes wiped down with one swipe of mineral spirits to help show the figure.
Product Dimensions: Because of the natural edge look to most of our slabs, our dimensions are listed as "at the widest spot" or "at the longest spot" of the slab. Some of our slabs still have the bark attached, and the bark is included in our width dimensions if it is firmly attached.
Product Numbers: Item numbers are written on all slabs in black sharpie marker, which can be easily removed with some light sanding or lacquer thinner. Check out this video to see how to the number removes using lacquer thinner.
Shipping & Handling: We cannot guarantee that all bark will remain on the slab during the shipping process. Our slabs are handled with great care, but even as they get moved around on the shelf, the bark can come off. Shipping struts may be installed on wider slab or tabletop sets for added stability during shipping. These are easily removed upon receipt but will leave small screw holes on the bottom side of the project. Please note on your order if you'd prefer Shipping Struts NOT be installed.
IF YOUR SLAB(S) SHIP VIA LTL FREIGHT: It is imperative that you inspect the package diligently upon arrival. Any damage MUST be noted on the delivery receipt prior to accepting the shipment to ensure all parties are protected. If damage is NOT noted on the delivery receipt, this may limit our options to resolve the problem. If you suspect there could be interior or concealed damage, open the freight while the driver is still there. Do not let the driver intimidate you into signing the papers before you have completed your inspection of the item.
Caring for your Slabs & Wood Furniture
Environmental Consideration: Furniture must be kept in controlled conditions with an optimal environment temperature ranging from 70 to 72 degrees Fahrenheit with roughly 30-50% relative humidity. If the product is exposed to extreme changes in temperature the following could/will occur – materials may contract and expand which will cause materials to "move." This may cause checking/cracking and/or warping. None of the above conditions would be considered manufacturing defects as wood is a natural, breathing element that responds to its environment.
Color Changes: Furniture should be protected from direct sunlight. Direct UV exposure will cause sun-fading or bleaching after prolonged exposure. Over time, there is a natural aging process and the finished surface will undergo natural color changes.
Storing Wood Products: When storing a finished or unfinished piece of wood, it is important it has adequate support to stay flat and there is good air flow to all sides of the piece. If left inside the packaging or placed with one side on a blanket or other smothering surface for an extended period of time, it is very likely the slab will move resulting in bow, cup, twist, and/or cracking.
Finishing Options Information
No Work
The slab will not have any finish work done to it and will be shipped in the raw form.
Joint & Glue Up Table Top
Includes jointing and gluing the slabs together for one solid surface.
Flatten One Side Only
Includes flattening on one side of your choice, and the joint and glue up if that is an option. This will be done on our CNC machine, and will give you a level surface on the side you select.
Flatten Both Sides
Includes flattening on both sides of slab, and the joint and glue up if that is an option. This will be done on our CNC machine, and will give you a level surface on both sides. If there is a taper or a twist, the thickness of the slab will be reduced by that amount listed in the features section.
Prepare Slab for Finishing
Includes the joint and glue up if that is an option, flattening on both sides, and total preparation of the slab for finishing through machine and hand sanding to a 220 grit. When the slab arrives at your doorstep, it will be ready for you to apply your preferred finishing product.
Finish Slab
Includes all of the above services, plus a spraying with a Satin Finish Lacquer. The smooth finish sanding is on the top side of the slab only, the bottom of the slab will be lightly sanded and sprayed as well. Epoxy Wood Filler is not included. This will need to be quoted on a per item basis, so please make a note at checkout if you require the cracks and voids to be filled.
Additional Services
Custom Cuts
Any of the slabs can be custom cut to your exact dimensions. If you need your slab(s) cut, please make note of this in the notes/comments box before you check out. This will need to be priced separately depending on how many cuts you need.
If you select a slab that has full or partial bark left on, you may add a bark removal charge to your order to remove it. Please make note of this in the notes/comments box before you check out. This will need to be priced separately depending on how much bark needs removed.
Epoxy fill services can also be completed and are priced separately. You must indicate at the time you place the order that you prefer to have all of the wood voids filled with epoxy in order to be given an estimate on that service.
Shipping & ReturnsHow to Qualify for Free Shipping
Our free shipping promotion covers economy shipping to the lower 48 U.S. states on orders over $95. For a limited time only, this includes both commercial & residential freight shipments.Freight Shipping
Due to the size and weight of our products, some orders are shipped via LTL or Commercial Freight. Freight shipments can be delivered to a commercial address, held at a local freight terminal, or delivered to a residential address. We use several different freight carriers and will notify you of who we shipped the order with and the tracking number once it has been picked up. If your package will be held at the terminal, the carrier will call you as soon as it is available for pickup. For Residential deliveries, the carrier will call once your package has arrived to the terminal to schedule a delivery appointment. In the case you provide inaccurate contact or shipping information, or fail to be available or respond to the carrier when contacting you for any need, you will be responsible for additional storage fees and/or the shipping costs associated with your order should they send the freight back to us.Returns
All products must be returned in its original condition. No product will be accepted for a return if it has been drawn on, carved on, cut, or any other work done to alter it. Buyer is responsible for shipping both ways.
Custom work is Non-Refundable. If you choose to have any level of finishing done to your slab before it leaves our shop, the slabs and custom work fees are non-refundable. However, we do understand that sometimes even with careful planning, things change. We will review each case individually in hopes of being able to help. Please note: if we do reach an agreement on an exchange, even once custom work has been completed, the custom work is still non-refundable.
If for some reason you aren't completely satisfied with your purchase, please contact us with the issues and we will do what we can to fix the problem. Please keep in mind that all of our finished furniture products are made to enhance the unique qualities of the lumber. All of the beauty of the natural knots, holes, bark inclusions, checks, and other natural character are what give our pieces the unique natural look, and will be noted in the description. Any item returned, must be in its original condition. We will not accept returns on items that have been altered in any way. Returns must be made within 21 days of purchase. We do charge a 10% restocking fee on all returns, with a minimum restocking fee of $10.00. Buyer pays shipping both ways on returns. Should you decide that returning the item is necessary; your refund, minus the restocking fee & shipping charges, will be issued once we receive the item back in the shop.
See more shipping information here.
Common Questions
Q: Are these pictures of the actual slab(s) I will receive, or just one similar?
The pictures you see with this listing are pictures of the exact slab you will receive. Each item is listed as a one of a kind product that can only be sold once. See the "Description" tab for more details regarding this item.
Q: I don't need both (or all) slabs, can I just purchase one of them?
Unfortunately, we cannot split up any of the packages. However, we do have slabs that are sold in singles as well. You can narrow your search down by using our search filters that correlate with your dimensions. You may also use our online chat service to speak with a wood expert while that can help you find various options while you are browsing.
Q: How do the slabs come if I don't select any finishing options?
A majority of our slabs are planed on both sides before they are listed on the site. This helps smooth out some of the marks left from the saw. You would then have some sanding to do before a finish was applied.
Q: Can you guys custom cut this slab to my dimensions?
Absolutely! We have a full shop that can custom cut any of the slabs. If you have any drawings or sketches of your design, you can always send those directly to email@example.com to discuss your project with one of our wood experts!
Q: I see I can add epoxy to my order. What do you offer, and how do I specify want I want?
We do offer epoxy fill services on any slab that is being fully finished by us. This is a popular choice for river table slabs, or any slabs that may have some larger voids or cracks. We use TotalBoat and West Systems epoxy, and have many different colors and shades in blue, gold, copper, black, white, red, purple, and many more! If you would like to add this to your order, please add a note in the notes section when you go to checkout. From there, someone from our team will contact you with a quote and to discuss your design details.
Q: Does "live edge" mean there is still bark on the slab?
The term live edge does not necessarily mean that the slab still has bark on the edges. Often times, the bark has fallen off, and the live edge refers to the surface just below the bark. This has a smoother texture than bark, but still has a very natural look. If the bark is still intact, this will be listed in the Product Features section of the listing.
Q: It says the slab has been planed on both sides. How is that different from flattening?
Most of our slabs are finished planed on both sides. This means the slab was ran through our planer to smooth out the surface of the wood. The main difference is that the planer will not flatten/sand out any of the tapers, bows, cups, or twists that the slab is listed with. You can find these details in the Description section of this listing. The flattening services would remove any tapers, bows, cups, or twists listed with that slab, leaving you with a perfectly level surface on one or both sides of your slab.
More questions? See a full list of common questions and answers here.
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Norrbotten County, Sweden's Internet Speeds
August 2023
Learn about internet performance in Norrbotten County, Sweden. This data is updated regularly based on Speedtest® results from millions of consumer-initiated tests taken every day. Visit the list below to see mobile and fixed internet speeds by city within Norrbotten County, Sweden. See information about median download and upload speeds over the last year. Then compare your internet experience by taking a Speedtest below.
For additional up-to-date information about internet speeds in Sweden as a whole, visit the Speedtest Global Index™ or read our recent Market Reports for provider information.
Norrbotten County Fixed Speeds
Download Mbps
Median download speed
Upload Mbps
Median upload speed
Latency ms
Median latency
To be added to this list for mobile or fixed broadband, 75% of a region's monthly unique user totals over a 13-month period must have a minimum of 200 monthly unique user results.
To be updated for mobile or fixed broadband, 75% of a region's monthly unique user totals over a 13-month period must have a minimum of 100 monthly unique user results.
An operator or ISP must account for 3% or more of total test samples in the market to be on this list. We display data if at least two operators or ISPs meet this threshold in a designated region or city.
Cities in Norrbotten County
Regions in Sweden
- Blekinge County
- Dalarna County
- Gavleborg County
- Gotland County
- Halland County
- Jamtland County
- Jonkoping County
- Kalmar County
- Kronoberg County
- Norrbotten County
- Skåne County
- Stockholm County
- Södermanland County
- Uppsala County
- Varmland County
- Västerbotten County
- Västernorrland County
- Västmanland County
- Västra Götaland County
- Örebro County
- Östergötland County


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Поцесс осваивания художником действительности—тяжелый процесс. Жизнь, оплодотворяя его опытом—не церемонится, не щадит его души, но ведь только эго ее безжалостное своекорыстие и насыщает художника волей к творчеству.
The assimilation of reality by an artist is a difficult process. Life, using experience to make him fruitful, does not stand on ceremony nor does it spare his soul, but only life's merciless selfishness fills the artist with the will to create.
–Maxim Gorky
from a letter to Fedin, 1926
In the midst of San Francisco is a dense concentration of buildings known as SROs—single room occupancy residential hotels—which for many years were the primary housing for San Francisco's workforce. As a result of drastic changes in the economy and the machinations of a ruthless redevelopment agency and downtown developers, SROs are now the final remaining stronghold of affordable housing for City residents living on a low or fixed income, including the working class, seniors, persons with disabilities, and the mentally ill. Sorely in need of upgrades and repairs, some of them standing in areas long ago deemed blighted, these SROs are considered eyesores by many, when in fact most of them are beautiful examples of an urban style of architecture that gives the central city its own unique ambiance. Built mainly in the two-and-a-half decades following the 1906 earthquake and fire, San Francisco's residential hotels embodied the concepts of the City Beautiful Movement to create a modern downtown for a city whose population consisted mainly of hotel dwellers.
A few of the hotels have been restored and are now maintained as low-income housing by nonprofit housing corporations. Through the efforts of tenant activists, living conditions have been improved in some of the profit-driven hotels. For the most part, however, SROs are neglected and ill-used; decaying, often squalid housing for society's forgotten—the poor, the outcast—scapegoats for our cultural dysfunction. For a century, the residential hotels of San Francisco's inner city have been saturated with the sigh and tumult of human affairs. The constant flux of humanity and the countless stories unfolded within their often stained and dingy walls have bestowed upon them a fugitive beauty, a patina of human existence.
Since 1968 I had witnessed the demolition of many San Francisco neighborhoods and the resultant destruction of communities, culture, and architecture that had once helped make this city so wonderful and unique. Although I didn't realize it when I moved into the Shree Ganeshai Hotel in 2001, circumstances would soon engage me in efforts to improve and preserve the neighborhoods of the central city. Living conditions were deplorable in most SROs. Years of neglect by property owners and an uncaring city government had taken their toll, and my hotel was no exception. By the time I began my fifth month of residency at the Shree Ganeshai, I had filed three complaints with the Department of Building Inspection and applied for a hearing with the Rent Board. Then I was invited to join the Central City SRO Collaborative, a small, newly formed organization of tenant activists dedicated to improving the quality of life in residential hotels. Before my first visit to their office was over, I had become a member of the collaborative and the tenant representative for my hotel.
The first year of my work with the collaborative was a heady time. Our numbers swelled as we honed our organizing skills and thus, too, grew our power to effect real and lasting improvements in SROs. Among our more outstanding achievements were the passage of the Sprinkler Ordinance, a law requiring all SRO hotels to install sprinklers in every room, and the Uniform Visitor Policy which protects SRO tenants from being charged additional fees for visitors and overnight guests. Unfortunately, the momentum generated by early triumphs lasted only a short time. Sacrificing independence for funding, the Central City SRO Collaborative had joined up with the Tenderloin Housing Clinic. Subject not only to that entity's rules and regulations, but also to the political agenda of its director, the collaborative subsequently lost its way and its principle mission was subverted. Nearly all the original members, including me, long ago parted company with it.
I began photographing central city SROs near the end of 2002 with a one-megapixel digital camera that I rescued from the trash. That camera's poor resolution and my complete lack of experience with photo processing software and file formatting, combined with personal vanity and a lifelong, hard-headed insistence on learning everything the hard way, guaranteed that much of my early photography would never see the light of day. Several years have elapsed since I began this project and in that time I have gradually acquired better equipment and enhanced my knowledge and experience. Far more important than the details of my learning curve is the reason for my somewhat single-minded devotion to photographing the central city. Beginning as a desire to capture the decaying beauty of its architecture and to make an historical record, over time it also became a tool to both publicize the plight of SRO residents and promote the architectural preservation of central city neighborhoods. In 2004 I began compiling my photos and research as The Hotel Project, which in 2008 became Up From The Deep, a work in three volumes: Sixth Street, Mid-Market, and The Tenderloin. Containing architectural data for many of the buildings I photographed and historical background for each of the districts that comprise the central city, it also documents my perceptions during the time I resided in a Sixth Street hotel and is my attempt to expand, if only in a small way, the boundaries of what is perceived as beautiful.
Copyright © 2008, Mark Ellinger
Except where otherwise indicated, text and photos on this site are copyright © 2004-2015, Mark Ellinger. Any use and/or duplication of this material without prior written permission from the author is prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Mark Ellinger and with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.


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May 20, 2019
A quick note about the reviews on this site: I am an affiliate for every product I review. The vendors of these products give me them without charge in order for me to test them. However all my reviews are done as honestly as possible and I make no promises to the vendor prior to writing my review. Should you click a link on this site that takes you to a paid product this link will be an affiliate link and I will be paid a percentage of the sales price should you decide to purchase that product.
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Affiliate Marketer, Abundant Thinker, Good Listener, Helping Others from Kragujevac – SERBIA
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