text:
Geoffrey, please say that there'll be some of those trousers in Hostem...
Geoffrey, please say that there'll be some of those trousers in Hostem...
Check Hostem Instagram - they've been showcasing a lot of GBS. There were some trousers if iirc.
^ Thanks; good thought. Looks like another pair...will have to go see them in the flesh.
Thank you old, DNHT, t3hg0suazn...
please note: for discussions on some of Hostem's delivery pieces, we are planning a presentation here later. For now though, I would like to show 2 more pieces from the Hotoveli delivery that I think are both interesting and great fun to create, and to wear - especially in New York when weather gets hot. The first uses some of our early recycle twin-set design techniques that we pioneered in the '90's which merged vastly different types of garments together into intriguing new metamorphoses that worked-in new combinations which at that time had never been seen or done before. Today, we apply these ideas to new fabric, cut and constructed from scratch, into the final idea instead of simply starting with existing used or vintage garments and merging them. The old way using recycling is far more efficient in many ways and sometimes easier to perform technically--but today we are making new garments from scratch far more than recycled ones for a wide range of reasons too numerous to get into right now. So here, we have a striking extreme handwork piece that we call a "shirt/jacket" which not only puts together two entirely different design patterns and garment construction technologies, but also merges two incredibly special super-artisan fabrics created only for us by Luigi Parisotto in Sarcedo and the Colombina family in Badoere... and represents a marvelous example of our unparalleled research, development and collaboration with the very best of 'Made in Italy' textile and component makers still working today.
Now, for the few people out there who know something about making clothes, especially in prototype and sample quantities, you may appreciate the difficulties and challenges that this kind of sartorial merging of so many different elements: patterns, constructions, and materials into a single unified piece, might create and present to those who must try to make it. While our "Assemblage" Paris collection in 2014 raised this technology to unprecedented levels, this project as part of "Radicallissimo" marked our first attempts to work with a real totally handwoven fabric- which due to its own unique characteristics, presented a whole new set of sartorial working and practical challenges. This is not an easy piece to create, but in the end it is truly worth the effort, and we felt it was important to present and share it here exclusively on StyleZeitgeist.
A Hotoveli exclusive for all of the U.S. and North America, the super limited edition RSS09 notch-lapel shirt/jacket design is one of only 3 pieces made by hand in the entire world- of which, just 2 pieces were created exclusively for Hotoveli in New York City...
The RSS09's handmade shirt component was created by hand by
combining our longer proportion fit and cut shirt from our medieval
period research, and cut using a luxurious superlux stripe in Super
120s double-twist pure organic Venezia cotton shirting woven for us in
Sarcedo, Italy by Luigi Parisotto...
Then combined with a notch-lapel, single-breasted jacket shape cut and
built in exclusive handwoven silk and linen fabric woven for us by the
Colombo family at Tessitura Colombina in Badoere di Morgano, Treviso
(see our post last fall on Examen Reginae to learn more), where it took
a full day working on one of their original 18th century wooden looms,
carefully kept and maintained for generations, to make enough cloth
just to make a single one of these pieces...
The components were then specially hand dyed and hand washed in a
time consuming double-separated process to achieve their special
color and patina effects, for extra aging and softness...
Extensive hand stitch detail and finishing work and antique Venetian
novelty weave linen and cotton trim were utilized to form the junction
of the two hand built assemblies...
In our first experience working with La Colombina's exquisite hand
loomed work, and as the weave was significantly looser and more open
than fabrics created on power looms, our top people in the sartoria
expressed serious concerns about trying to execute either our signature
handmade welt and besom pockets as well as our handmade buttonholes.
Each of these operations required cutting the fabric and making extremely
precise stitch work, and the possibility of the fabric yarns unraveling
uncontrollably during the process could easily risk ruining the garment
at that point. As the precious and narrow 90cm wide fabric piece had
only arrived to our workrooms about a week before we had to present
our collection in Paris, we decided that we did not have adequate time
or fabric to research and test techniques to perform these operations,
so we decided to eliminate putting the Colombina's beautiful work (and
expensive that piece was costing us about 400 euros alone)- at risk
and avoid welt pockets and buttonholes and use other appropriate
sartorial options. Later as we developed the groundbreaking "Examen
Reginae" collection for women, we were able to develop and master
both handcut welt/besom pocket-making and handsewn buttonhole
operations on totally hand-loomed fabrics and today, they are counted
as yet another one of our extreme handmade clothing technologies of
which we are alone in being able to perform beautifully, efficiently, and
yes, profitably, in this industry. Another example of our growing sartorial
supremacy that I must continue to emphasize, is totally unique in the
world today. So in the end, for the RSS09, beautiful Italian metal
"automatica" buttons were hand sewn to the piece using pure Bozzolo
silk threads. Part of this decision was aesthetic, but another was
A phenomenal blood red and beige antique venetian linen and cotton
lace was chosen to accent hemlines at shirt bodice and sleeve cuff in a
clear, unmistakeably personalized manner that would immediately tip
off any onlooker that this was no factory-made or common commercial
fast-fashion or corporate-luxury brand garment...
ditto the real mother-of-pearl buttons made for us in Padova on the
sleeve cuffs...
and naturally, the real hand sewn buttonholes (each one requires 8-10
minutes to cut and sew) in luxurious pure silk Bozzolo Reale Milano
Seta threads on the shirting cuffs...
One of only three in the world. The RSS09 is created for someone clearly
a world apart from the H&M, Net-A-Porter, and Barneys NY type of crowd.
We cordially invite you to contact the store and begin to experience this
amazing piece of extreme handmade technology and research in person.
Next, a look at a super dress for summer in New York...
Aspecial unlined superlight pure handkerchief linen version of the RSWD01
handmade dress was also developed only for Hotoveli this season. It was such
a nice idea for staying cool in Gotham heat, that we felt we had to show a bit
of it here. The original design was created specially for the SS2016 "Examen
Reginae" collection, perhaps the most extreme hand built collection ever
presented in Paris for women's ready to wear using an amazing "ricamo"
embroidery cloth created for us in Milan fully-lined and backed in pure Como
silk raso satin (see small photo inset right)...
.................................................. ............
For Hotoveli's special version, the dress design was cut in a pure deluxe linen
handkerchief weight superlight suiting cloth woven for us exclusively by
Luigi Parisotto in Sarcedo, Italy now the world's most exclusive artisan cotton
and linen mill specialist...
Along with an elegant handcrafted matching detachable rose flower
accessory pin design which we created in our workrooms, then
individually hand dyed in our studios using a process that involves
over 8 hours for each piece to achieve its special color and patina
The classic early 1920's low-waist art-deco influenced design also
features an inverted pleated neckline, elegant side-pointed hems and
extensive hand stitch taped hem seam finishing inside...
and is combined with a pure linen handmade belt also created in our
studios specially for the piece to be worn super-low at the hip as per
the avant-gardiste styling of the period...
This special version of the super limited edition RSWD01 handmade
dress design is one of only 3 pieces created in the entire world, each
one exclusively for Hotoveli in New York...
Part of the extraordinary collection of pieces for women we have created
for the store, and of which, along with the men's collection pieces, we
cordially invite you to experience in person very soon.
Thank you so much for reading.
Best wishes,
Geoffrey & the team
My special order came in to Hotoveli the other day from Geoffrey. It is definitely a coat which will be with me forever! The feel of the linen is silky smooth. The handmade buttonholes are beautifully done. The lining story is a really nice touch which makes this piece even more unique. I had a specific arm length that I requested and Geoffrey was kind and understanding through the entire process. Both the mens & womens collection are magnificent and can only be fully appreciated by seeing and touching it in person. I highly suggest taking the time to look at the collection if you live or are just visiting New York. Nothing like it!
Last edited by Cantara; 05-16-2016 at 01:41 PM.
Dear Cantara,
Thank you so much for your super post, and your marvelous support of our work. It is a pleasure to make our clothes for you, and I do sincerely hope that we may earn the opportunity to continue to do so again in the future.
When it comes to great clothes-making, people these days need to understand that it is truly a two-way process. A great clothes-maker or designer is only as good as his or her client allows them to be. Great clients not only facilitate, they contribute to great pieces and great work. They take the time and effort to learn as much as they can about the processes, materials, options and thinking behind design and maker. They learn to see the beauty and the possibilities of a creative process that is based upon knowledge, study and discipline, and they can be decisive and clear when they need to be. And above all else, they are respectful of what it takes to achieve the work by those who must perform it. Whether individual person or store owner, this is fundamental in getting great results.
Nothing is worse than people who think that they can just flippantly snap their fingers and have someone "whip something up," when it comes to creating really genuine products on a personalized or exclusive basis for their wardrobe or their stores. As many on this forum and elsewhere view, and increasingly complain, about the problems of the market today and the accelerating deterioration of both design and product quality on offer in the fashion industry, it has to be pointed out that buyers and consumers share the responsibility as well in this process and for the situation as it stands.
Great buyers and great customers not only achieve great results for themselves and their stores, they also play the key role in the survival or demise of true human creation in a world more and more dominated by corporations, robots, automation, and when that is not available- slavery, and the financial interests that believe in the elimination of the human factor in just about everything you can possibly think of.
Nothing symbolizes this more today in our field than what we in our end of the industry label as the "Typical Fashion Buyer." Often the owner or head of a famous international designer boutique or store in some major city that carries all the right brands at just the right moment, these people invade the showrooms of Paris every season during fashion week. They use their tactics to impress, or terrorize, or harass, or abuse, designers and brands into working for them. They love to pose and act as cool, important, creative-artistic type people just like they think you want them to be to work for them or shop from them. But that is where the fakery begins. They really don't care about what you do. They are coming to you because they have seen you working in other people's stores, or they are followers of the media that is covering you at the moment. They are merchants in the lowliest form of the word. Nothing more. Anything they think they can sell, is what they buy. That's all they are about. They chase trends like there is no tomorrow. Because for them - there is no tomorrow. It's all about 'take the money and run.' They are the principal victims, hook-line-and-sinker... to the wasteful, unsustainable seasonal hamster-wheel of early delivery-or markdown-and-throw-away fashion system that is not only ruining the art and the business of fashion in the world, it is ruining our environment and our very ability as a species to survive on this planet for very much longer. But they are too stupid, stressed and selfish to see their folly or do anything about it. Because the fact is, they really don't care.
And they carry this vibe with them into the showrooms. They make you feel uncomfortable. They never have respect for you, your work, or your people. They exert way too much pressure for a serious vendor making a genuine product to possibly provide his or her best work, and almost always- for such a small order amount - that to accept their demand, is to accept in the end, losing money or at the very least, making nothing at all. They flip through your rack and arrogantly refuse to put a single ounce of effort on their part to even do a little more than just view their job as "buy and sell." No learning. Definitely no listening. No study. No knowledge. No commitment of effort to raise the quality of their product offer, or the service and information they provide to their customer, nothing whatsoever. "Just the trends, please.. and if you can't deliver my fall/winter before August, or my spring/summer before January...I can't sell it without putting it all on markdown... my customers simply can't wait." You see, they really don't care. They just want to buy and sell, without any effort. Easy quick sales, that's it. The lowest common denominator. And when you try to tell them that some effort a little bit beyond sitting on your ass at a cash register in your store and parading around Paris like a hot-shot-celebrity-know-it-all-VIP is needed to work with a designer that is really making a genuine product that is redefining the value set of a rapidly growing new generation of customers for designer clothing today, well--- they don't want to hear it. For them, the phony sign they put up outside their store on the shingle that says they sell "genuine designers and genuine products" is all they think they need to fool you. Well, that's changing. More and more customers are getting informed and waking up. And after many decades in the game, we try to avoid these people like the plague. Every once in awhile though, inspite of our careful screening, they sneak into our showroom and fool us into working for them for a bit. But in the end, the truth always comes out. And we need to get rid of them. We have to, so that we can focus our precious and limited time, and work, on taking care of our real customers. We have no time for these fakers. With a maximum this year of maybe just about two thousand individual extreme handmade pieces of production, we simply cannot be for everybody, or every store, on the circuit.
So when we say it is a pleasure to make our clothes for you Cantara, it means something very serious to us, and we mean it. We thank you again from the bottom of our hearts, and we thank Hotoveli and our other dedicated exclusive dealers around the world who have and are continuing to commit themselves to our work for making it all possible... and helping to keep the dream, and the art, and yes, the mission, of great-clothesmaking alive, and not only well---> but thriving.
And on that note... this coming Thursday, we have been kindly invited to talk to the University of Venice about our work and our unique revolutionary approach to design, art and the business. Hope it goes well...
Thank you as always for reading.
Best wishes,
Geoffrey, I'm wearing the black linen dress I purchased from Hotoveli to a wine tasting/dinner (french cuisine) tonight. It ideally fits the whimsy of the event and its stunning.
Congrats on your flourishing success.
is it the one posted above? beautiful piece!!
"AVANT GUARDE HIGHEST FASHION. NOW NOW this is it people, these are the brands no one fucking knows and people are like WTF. they do everything by hand in their freaking secret basement and shit."
yes, the same dress. 2 of 3. If Geoffrey custom made it for me it couldnt have fit better.
I wore it with the Guidi linen boots.
turns out the tasting was french cuisine paired with wines from J. Hofstatter. I thought this was neat since Martin Hofstatter himself admired the dress and I his wine.
You know, he says, with a resilient smile, it is a hard world for poets.
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Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock
Hostem have received their SS16 collection. Really lovely as usual. I'm looking forward to Geoffrey' write up and featured descriptions.
If I may ask, where are they selling that particular blazer? I've tried navigating my way through a few Japanese stores affiliated with GBS, but it gets quite tricky. If you could please give me a few links that would be much appreciated
Last edited by Mojo1990; 05-31-2016 at 01:12 AM.
Had the opportunity to view the collections at Hotoveli and IF 2 weeks ago, looks terrific!
Dear Rider, Lowrey, Zamb, _AR, Mojo1990, jakubtoronto, applecrisp…
Thanks so much for your kind words (and in Rider and Mojo's case your purchases!).
You people are each very appreciated.
Today, a note and post on media seems appropriate as the Associated Press, CNN and a pile of US corporate-backed media have magically proclaimed Hillary Clinton already the "presumptive" winner of the Democratic Party's presidential nomination before no less than six state primary elections across the country including California, have even taken place on this same day... in a far more tighter race than what they seem to want to admit to.
Well, last week or so, I was asked by a magazine in London to answer some questions via email as part of an article they were doing on our recent delivery to Hostem with photos taken by Ryan Skelton. The angle of the piece was supposedly about slow design and sustainability issues of which we are well know to be leaders of. OK, so albeit the questions are all pretty lame, I write my answers and send them inside the deadline requested, and a few days later, the piece comes out in publication. You can view the piece yourself here:
At first glance, I think it is alright, but somehow something doesn't ring straight to me. I decide go over it again. And whoa… more than half of what I wrote and sent them is not even there. Alright, I know editing is always needed in media, and even sometimes for an online publication though they have no costs of paper or printing etc.. So I am thinking that maybe this is OK--but upon closer examination, that is not at all the case here. What they took out was in fact very specific and calculated. Indeed, anything their advertisers might not feel good about. And as some of their advertisers are world leaders in unsustainability, pollution, and unethical practices, that might create some problems with what I really had to say to their questions.
So for the record, exclusively here on StyleZeitgeist.com here is the interview published in full with my answers (yes, I must use the word here) uncensored….
How do you feel about the current state of fashion?
Was this line/your work a response to it?
Fashion- are you kidding? Bad for the customer, bad for the worker, bad for society, and bad for the environment, fashion today remains one of the industrial age's biggest human failures. It is a massive human social and environmental disgrace. And now it's worse than ever. Our industry leads the world in slavery and ripping off the customer by making them poorer and poorer in a myriad of ways, and is currently ranked 2nd in the world among all industries in polluting and poisoning our world. The skill sets required to make clothes are getting scarcer and scarcer, as Yohji stated recently "we have less and less competition- 'clothing designer' is more and more rare…only 'stylists' working for big luxury brands to sell bags and accessories." The hypocrites on the sustainable fashion and ethical creation bandwagon are more numerous, phony and more damaging than ever. The epitome of this is the newest fashion rage in Paris, whom and which I will leave unnamed. We use DHL for shipping our work around the world to our clients, they are the best in their business, but they make a lousy t-shirt. In fact, they don't even make t-shirts, like the logo-slappers who don't make anything either. We are sick of it all, and of course, our work is a response to it. We only care about one single thing, showing the world what is still possible when people who really know how to make things (in this case, clothing) set out to make the best clothes in the world bar none. This results in providing unparalleled value to our customer, and as a result, neither they nor us need fashion any more. So, we really don't care….
The industry has changed a lot since you started out over three decades ago. What have you learnt?
What is different for you now? How is your work responding to the current state of the world?
Sorry, but I cannot give you a complete answer to all of this and make it within your deadline. The biggest change over the past three decades is not in the industry, but in the world- it's being taken over by the "corporation." It's not just fashion and textiles, it's banking, transportation, energy, housing, consumer products, and in particular, government, and your industry: media. We are living in a period that will go down in human history when the nation-state gave way to the corporate-state, and ushered in a new era of feudalism, and a new inept but extremely powerful ruling class that is hurtling most of us towards extinction. In the 90's there used to be a huge middle class market for designer fashion, but that is all gone because the middle class is all gone, wiped out by the corporation which has concentrated its power and wealth to an increasingly fewer and fewer number of people at the top. So more and more, you had to choose between designing for poor people, designing for middle class people that don't exist any more and are becoming more and more closer to poor people, or designing for increasingly richer rich people. We saw the writing on the wall. The only way to save the craft and the art of our ancestors, was to do as was done throughout most of human history by most great and competent workpersons and artists… you work for rich people and build Ferraris or Tintoretto's. And if the world is going to be run by corporations, you form and build your own corporation in an effort first to protect you and your people from the incompetence that is running the world these days into the ground, and second, to perhaps influence things so that the world get run a little better than the status quo.
Tell us about the many processes and fabrics that are in this collection? Where did you find them?
How long did it take? How did you try and make it sustainable?
We are the world leader in sustainable designer clothing going back decades, so it is impossible to explain all the processes and fabrics in such a short time to all of these questions which are so broad. I would suggest doing your homework on us first or being more specific with your questions. Our goal this season was to create the most extreme hand built men's and women's collections ever presented in Paris for ready to wear, and once again break the barriers in handmade clothing technology. And we did. While the somewhat classic appearance fooled both the superficially-minded buyer and the superficially-minded journalist - the collection we presented in Paris was a revolutionary one. And it sets a new standard in classic luxury tailored clothing for men and women that now challenges any major couture house in the world. There is now something better for this customer. And way cooler. And that customer is growing. And while the so-called luxury houses are busy buying and selling each other and trying to rebrand and relaunch one bogus "heritage brand concept" after another hiring, and firing one "stylist" after another- we are steadily and aggressively building a real, and new, heritage brand from scratch. A real one, with a real person behind it. And one that will be one of the greatest of this new century because it is not run by financiers or accountants, it is run by people with one singular vision- to make the best clothes in the world possible today by human beings, bar none.
In what way did your collaboration with the Colombo family give you
"a new approach to couture fabric and garment making"?
How did you meet them? What makes the fabric special? What were you surprised to learn about their process? Where can it be seen in the collection?
The rising costs of global transport and their subsequent greenhouse gas emissions is creating a new reason for work to travel less and less. Therefore, the sourcing and assemblies of product need to be performed as locally as possible. I came to Italy 16 years ago for one reason: to make and design the best clothes in the world. We have developed a unique network of the world's most advanced industrial and artisanal suppliers for fabrics, components, accessories, threads and treatments. Across the entire spectrum of suppliers we have the world's very best technical, cultural, and artistic working masters all within a maximum radius of 250 kilometers. Our exhaustive and constant research and efforts in this area led us to a chance encounter where I discovered the Colombo family who at that very moment
were considering a return in their company to relaunch making totally hand woven fabrics in a special old room in their 19th century villa complex that was filled with authentic original wooden hand looms from the 1800's that had been dormant for almost half a century. Hand work requires no electricity, petroleum or machinery. It emits no carbon or methane into the atmosphere. It provides life skills and work to human beings and enables them to create garments and fabric autonomously with less dependency on a system with vastly diminishing resources (for example, one of us can execute a beautiful hand slip-stitch down a jacket front ourselves with just a needle, thread and know-how, far faster, less expensively, and more beautifully than the typical AMF machine system industrial alternative.) And it creates high value works that are beautiful, unique and meaningful in a multitude of ways. The return to handwork is also leading us to a new world of artistic perspectives and directions that we are continuously pursuing and experiencing as we increase this...
...new interpretation to maximize a very old application. For example, the relationship with the Colombo family began right off with nothing less than a revolution. You see, the Colombos don't just weave great fabric. They weave it by hand. All of it. On original 18th century looms that they have carefully kept and maintained for generations. And while it takes 2 days working on one of these looms to make enough cloth just to make a single suit, what can be done on those looms is simply another world when it comes to fabric. And as we stepped into this new world, it led us into an entirely new way of looking at things, and yes, making things, especially the prototypes for this new collection- which rises so much higher in time, skill and sartorial artistic excellence that it takes all other recent artisanal designer collections and their pieces, including our own, and simply leaves them back on the ground. And nothing represents that vision today more than the pieces that can be found in the new collection. They are totally new technology pieces- the most handworked collection ever done for a Paris ready to wear collection... again starting with the fabrics which were all totally hand woven on a series of original 18th century wooden hand looms that the family has maintained for centuries. This fabric took us into totally new territory for complexity of hand technologies. For example, it took 2 days of work for a person working on the hand loom to create enough fabric for a single 2-piece suit. To achieve the extraordinary dark colors we presented in Paris, after extensive trials and testing in our workrooms, we found we had to hand dye the fabrics not just once, but twice to get the yarns to go dark enough and hit the amazing patina and softness that was finally achieved. So another 2 full days due to double-hand dye baths were needed just to dye a single suit. Because the hand loom techniques result in looser weaves than with power looms, the fabric was also very different to work with in the sartoria (tailoring rooms), cutting had to be done much more delicately and carefully or the fabric will run and yarns will unravel quickly, our initial time studies indicate 2-3 times longer to cut a suit in this type of cloth, and at its already high price and value--we could not afford any mistakes. But the fabric story of the collection does not end there, there are also breakthrough artistic and technological examples from Fratelli Piacenza (founded in 1733 the oldest still running wool mill in the world) who provided us with the world's lightest 170gram per meter weight cashmere suiting in history and stunning organic fiber fabrics from Luigi Parisotto, and silk shirtings from Ratti and Serica della Marca, and original hand printed gold leaf fabrics used for the first time for clothing designs in almost a century from the legendary Mario Fortuny factory in Venice. The list goes on and on, you simply have to begin to visit one of our extraordinary dealers like Hostem in London and begin to explore a totally new experience in clothing and wardrobe design.
Besides the textiles and processes, what did you want to convey aesthetically?
How did the look of the clothes happen?
We are the Ferrari of the industry. We have only one goal- to make the best handmade clothes in the world. That includes aesthetics. For the past 14 years, we have been steadily increasing the amounts of handwork involved in the creation of our pieces, and we can now state that the handmade component of our work is the highest in the designer industry bar none. Our focus has not been just to reproduce effects of a day gone by, but to look at, and arrive at, new and forward-looking applications of hand-work on modern 21st century life and design as we know it. Our unique position in the world avant-garde circuit in Paris for more than 20 years and our sartorial supremacy and extreme hand made technologies allow us to create and provide the most beautiful, comfortable and correct wardrobe concepts for our customers, who are generally, some of the smartest and best-dressed people on the planet. It also allows us to uniquely pursue our concept of long-term design, which puts a minimum target of 25 years useful life for every design we try to create for its owner. By being a leader at the Paris avant-garde level, we know well in advance where things are going aesthetically and can design as such to guarantee our client that he or she will be the coolest looking person in the room now and in the years and decades ahead. By building and investing ourselves to become the greatest modern tailoring house in the world, we are also able to build a product with that type of aesthetic that can also physically last that long. This is not a pipe-dream or just-hype-talk, we have many customers out there with pieces that we made for them 25 years ago or more, that they can still use and wear to prove it.
What is the benefit of producing limited edition collections?
Do you think fashion needs more of that?
A recent study has come out that indicates that one-third of all clothing produced in the world is unsold. A 29£" or 2,990 yen" or 29,99 dollar or euro article that steals its design from a Paris runway collection, promotes and uses slave labor and consumes a long chain of energy and resources and produces an equally long chain of greenhouse gas emissions in its production and delivery to the marketplace, fits poorly, uses uncomfortable plastic petrochemical fabric, looks cheap, and falls apart after only a month and several washings, and then needs to be replaced and repurchased again 5-10 times a year, and then ends up in an African landfill where its synthetic materials obstruct water flow, degrade topsoil and increase malaria growth or in the oceans all around the world where UK scientists have discovered now contain alarmingly high percentages of microscopic plastic particles most likely caused by our industry is no bargain at all. It is a waste of money and one of the most expensive, wasteful and destructive things you can possibly do with your money. The business model is totally flawed. Reducing the amount and quantities of product and making things that last as long as possible is a tantamount to the new wardrobe philosophy for those of us who wish to avoid mass extinction of the human species within the next few decades. It takes a tremendous amount of skill, time and work to make a Geoffrey B. Small limited edition article, and it is financially and logistically impossible to over-distribute and over produce. Every piece must count for maker and wearer. If making clothing is going to cost more in the future, and it is, it must contain less waste, and that includes pieces that are over-produced on speculation using slave labor tactics and extravagant consumption of energy, water and natural resources. Micro-scale design and high value production specifically targeted to individual niche customers exact needs in exclusive and limited series is the logical sustainable, and humane, approach.
How did your collaboration with Hostem come about?
What are you favourite pieces in the collection?
I met the people behind Hostem many years ago in Paris before they had started the store. At the time, they were working outside of London and began to explain their vision to open a new kind of designer clothing store in London. At first I was extremely skeptical, the industry at the time was rampant with an old-generation of tired, jaded and lazy but still powerful retailers, who were slaves (and still are) to the system of trendy consumerism, seasonal, disposable, early markdowns, short-term design thinking and a general devaluation of everything that we are about which impoverishes both wearer and maker of clothing. We were in the process of proposing and leading a new radical revolutionary approach that would start a paradigm shift in the industry from the Paris avant-garde level to the rest of the industry. And the one thing I remember about each of our encounters, was that they were listening carefully. They soon convinced me they were earnest and shared our philosophy. Any student of our game knows that a revolutionary designer needs revolutionary retailers who are able, willing and daring enough to carry the message and the idea and share it with the public and the community face to face and one to one on a daily basis and turn it into a major success. It's been seven years since Hostem opened in Shoreditch and we made our first clothes for their tiny store on the corner of Redchurch Street, the story of our collaboration is a remarkable one and will go down in the annals of the game as part of the beginning of a great rebirth of the tailoring Art in the modern world. As for the current collection, I have no single favorite. They are all examples of the maximum possible human attempt to hit the zen point of perfect balance, beauty, emotion and comfort within a set of defined parameters. Each one is a part of our Art. They are all different and each has a special story.
So when it comes to corporate media in fashion or politics, don't ever believe that what you see is the whole story in any sense of the word. More often that not, it is a complete fabrication or coverup of what really is being said or going on.
Thank you so much for reading. And thank you StyleZeitgeist for existing and providing the platform.
PS. and if you are in California, Montana, New Jersey, New Mexico, South Dakota or North Dakota, please make sure to get out and vote today. The future of the world may depend upon you. Thanks.
much blessings........see you Soon!
You know, he says, with a resilient smile, it is a hard world for poets.
.................................................. .......................
Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock


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Three people were arrested early this morning after a fight broke out at a club and escalated to a shooting in San Francisco's Castro District, a police spokesman said.
The argument between a 38-year-old man and a group comprised of a 25-year-old woman and two men, ages 25 and 33, started at a club near 18th and Collingwood Street around 2:45 a.m., San Francisco police spokesman Officer Gordon Shyy said.
The victim was hit by the trio during the fight and attempted to get away in his car, parked near the club, Shyy said.
When he got into his car, one of the suspects shot into the vehicle, Shyy said.
The victim was not injured in the shooting.
The three suspects were arrested, but their names are not yet being released, Shyy said.
Sasha Lekach, Bay City News

subset: commoncrawl


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Steema Support Central writes to inform you of the availability of the latest TeeBI for RAD Studio 1.4.2018.1220 release with full RAD Studio, Delphi, C++ Builder 10.3 Rio support.
Active subscribers may download this version at no-charge from the customer download page.
Version history for every build may be viewed at the version info page.
If you'd like to try-out the new release you can follow this link to download the fully functional evaluation version.
For more information, please visit the TeeBI product pages.
TeeBI for RAD Studio [27 DEC 2018] RELEASE 1.4.2018.1220
TeeChart FireMonkey (Windows,OSX,iOS & Android) for Embarcadero RAD Studio, Delphi and C++ Builder (XE5+)
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Rachel ALLAN Homecoming 40350
- Brand: Rachel Allan Shorts
- Style #: 40350 - Quick Delivery*Quick Delivery*
- Availability: In Stock
- $478
Established in 1985, Rachel Allan is a prom and homecoming line that has been worn on the red carpet by numerous celebrities like Carrie Underwood at the CMA awards and has graced magazine covers like Seventeen and Life Magazine. Rachel Allan features a series of silhouettes to select from for your dream dress. Rachel Allan takes in mind that trends evolve each year and strives to present the most innovative styles. Be right on trend with Rachel Allan two-piece dresses; whether you want a pleated ball gown skirt or satin mermaid fit and flare bottom. Rachel Allan understands prom gowns should not only be glamorous but comfortable as well. They offer classic chiffon gowns with empire waistlines or A-line skirts that are universally figure flattering. Rachel Allan features a plus line of 14W-30W that compliments the size and shape of any girl. If long gowns are not your liking, you can choose from a selection of Rachel Allan dresses whether you want a fun and sassy tulle dress or mini jersey fitted piece perfect for after prom or any other high school dance. Order your 2016 Rachel Allan prom gown today and be set for an unbelievably night.
The fabric in this Rachel ALLAN Homecoming style is Stretch Tulle, Beading
The fabric in this Rachel ALLAN Homecoming style is Stretch Tulle, Beading
Quick Delivery:
- Black Multi: 00, 4, 12
*A style on our web site listed as IN STOCK can usually be shipped 7 TO 10 business days or quick delivery direct from our inventory. Items that are listed as QUICK DELIVERY must be Special Ordered from the designer's inventory and can usually be shipped in 7-10 days once we confirm availability with the designer. SALE PRICES ARE VALID FOR IN STOCK ITEMS ONLY NOT SPECIAL ORDERS. SALE PRICES ARE VALID ONLINE ONLY! SALE PRICES ARE NOT VALID IN STORE. ATTENTION CUSTOMERS: Items in this sale category are CLEARANCE items. Many of them have been tried on before, and the condition of these sale dresses can vary from brand new to visibly worn. These dresses and prices are available online only. ALL sales are final. Diane & Company does not issue refunds, returns, or exchanges.


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Located at Wolo Hotel in Bukit Bintang (just right across from Lot 10), Tous les Jours is the new kid in town with fancy dress and high society aura.
The location is great, and facade of this born in Korea French-Asian bakery rejuvenates this side of Bukit Bintang, upgrading it to be of equal to the Starhill/Pavilion area.
Tous les Jours, bukit bintang
Since it looked so beautiful from the outside, we just had to make a trip during lunch on a work week to see what this place is about.
The interior consists of area, an expansive ground floor offering coffee, cakes, and assortment of bread and pastry, with about half of the area spanning over two floors in terms of ceiling height.
bread, coffee, cakes, sandwiches, soup & salad
Upstairs, there are more seating areas and another bar in which you can order sandwiches, all-day breakfast, tartine, as well as soup and salad.
The product selection is immense, with the smell of freshly baked bread and coffee in the air, the ambiance is perfect.
lunch for three, covering most of the product type at Tous les Jours
We had Korean wheat and sweet potato cream bread, blueberry pastry, a cup of caramel latte, some cakes, macaroons, as well as a breakfast set and caramel latte.
Over all the quality of pastry and bread were very satisfying, and perfect for any carboholics. I was a bit impartial to the way the presentation of caramel latte, but the coffee did not disappoint.
Sheng, Joyce, and KY
Expect to spend about RM 20+ per person for enough food to fill the stomach, and for the quality and concept, I'd say this place is definitely worth visiting.
Tous les Jours
Wolo Hotel
Bukit Bintang
60000, Kuala Lumpur
Tel:Â 03-2201 3526


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[Nathan] took this boombox and outfitted it for Bluetooth streaming. He took a Motorola DC800, which is meant to make headphones wireless, and connected it to the stereo inputs. The controls for the Bluetooth module were routed to the stock tape deck controls and a little bit of frosted spray paint adds a blue glow to the cassette window. Now he can stream music from his phone, including internet radio, which he's done in the video after the break.
Did he find the most annoying demo video music ever? You be the judge.


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It's time for another awesome giveaway! We've teamed up with BuyDig.com to give one lucky reader this innovative new kitchen appliance bundle: Cuisinart Elite Collection 12 Cup Food Processor and the Cuisinart Elite Collection Accessory Storage Case for 12-Cup Food Processors.
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a Rafflecopter giveaway
For more information please check my Disclosure Statement. Our giveaways are in no way sponsored or promoted by Facebook.


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Braund Park is suggested as a recreation area from or near Prospect, Australia. It features a playground for children and is ranked at #178 out of 324 locations in that region.
This place has no yet any user votes in Kenvuki's 5-star rating system, be the first to rate Braund Park (click on a leaf under the location title).
Do you know this location? Add some description
Share your experience, add new photos and reviews for Braund Park or mark it as your favorite location .


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HypoGel® Diol Resins
HypoGel® is a novel hydrophilic gel type resin which combines high capacities with good solvent compatibility. Glycol spacers with n = 5 or 10 EO units separate the reactive sites from the polystyrene matrix and modify the hydrophobic properties of the polystyrene backbone. Due to the spacer effect the functional group shows a higher mobility which results in higher kinetic rates and high resolution NMR spectra from immobilized compounds on the bead. The resin is compatible to a wide range of solvents and in contrast to polystyrene even polar solvents like methanol or ethanol can be used.
These resins show high loading and a hydrophilicity between polystyrene and TentaGel®
Ideal supports for aldehyde immobilization via acetal formation.


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The Texas Progressive Alliance wishes you a happy MLK Day as it brings you this week's blog highlights.
Off the Kuff takes a look at some demographic trends in the Houston area.
Something STINKS about TCEQ's recent Fort Worth air study. Considering that the Barnett Shale has a staggering asthma rate of 25% compared to 7.1% statewide, TXsharon thinks it's time for an intervention in Texas. Bluedaze: DRILLING REFORM FOR TEXAS.
CouldBeTrue of South Texas Chisme, along with every other progressive, knows why Democrats are having a hard time. Even the Tea Party activists know that our country should not be run by corporate lobbyists.
WCNews at Eye On Williamson discusses the importance of the election this year, 2010 races loom large for 2011 legislative redistricting.
Mary Peters loves her some private toll roads which is understandable since her income depends on stupid people at TXDOT selling off our roads. McBlogger, understandably, has a problem with the fact that taxpayers have to get screwed for Mary and her masters to make money.
A few of PDiddie's friends around the state are taking a crack at public office this year. See who they are at Brains and Eggs.
Bay Area Houston notices What they didnt talk about at the Republican debates.
Neil at Texas Liberal updated his Martin Luther King Reading & Reference List for 2010. This list is the best such resource on the web.
MUD? FWSD? WTF? Developer welfare comes back into the light in Denton County, at the Texas Cloverleaf.
By promoting cleaner energy, cleaner government, and cleaner air for all Texans, we hope to provide for a healthy place to live and prosper. We are Public Citizen Texas.


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Sen. Ron Johnson — the Republican who engaged in a tense exchange with Hillary Clinton during Benghazi testimony earlier this week — took the unusual step of blasting Washington Post reporter Chris Cillizza for saying he had the "Worst Week in Washington."
Here's Johnson's full statement:
"The Washington Post — the poster child of Washington status quo — said I had the 'Worst Week in Washington.' Benghazi was a failure of leadership by Secretary Clinton: before, during and after the terrorist attack. I dared to actually demand that Secretary Clinton explain why she refused to debrief her own staff and then provide truthful information to the American people. In Washington, demanding the truth is apparently a sin. Every week that Washington leadership continues to sweep its dirt under the carpet, ignore America's economic plight and turn a blind eye to its own out of control spending is a bad week for me, the people of Wisconsin and every American."
Cillizza didn't exactly give him the label because of his exchange with Clinton, however. He bestowed the title on Johnson after he later said Clinton got emotional on purpose and engaged in "theatrics."
Here's an excerpt from Cillizza's piece:
Oh no, he didn't! It's one thing to disagree about whether the genesis of the Benghazi attack is critical to understanding how to prevent future assaults. It's another entirely to insinuate that Clinton cried on command, faking tears to avoid facing the music.
For his part, Cillizza enjoyed the back-and-forth:
Sen Ron Johnson to Fix: No, you had the Worst Week in Washington. Love it!— The Fix (@TheFix) January 25, 2013


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On Thursday and Friday (Oct. 4-5), The Sharon Disney Lund School of Dance at CalArts presents the Sixth Annual Commuter Dance Festival. Developed to provide a creative exchange between CalArts…Continue reading »
Archive for 2012
CalArts Authors at West Hollywood Book Fair this Weekend
Even though it's Carmaggedon weekend in Los Angeles, a number of CalArts authors are braving the 405-less city to participate in the West Hollywood Book Fair this Sunday. Among the…Continue reading »
CalArts Alum Genndy Tartakovsky Helms Animated 'Hotel Transylvania'
The animated film Hotel Translyvania—from Sony Pictures Animation—opens nationwide today (Sept. 28). Featuring the voices of Adam Sandler, Andy Samberg and Selena Gomez, the film focuses on the escapades of…Continue reading »
WHAP! Screening: U.S. Premiere of Simondon of the Desert
On Tuesday (Oct. 2), the WHAP! Lecture Series presents the U.S. premiere of director François Lagarde's film, Simondon of the Desert—a documentary celebrating the work of French philosopher of technology, Gilbert Simondon (1924–1989)….Continue reading »
Baker Lights New York City Ballet's Year of the Rabbit
By Nicholas Katzban/Special to 24700 CalArts alum Brandon Stirling Baker (Theater BFA 10) has designed the lighting for New York City Ballet's newest performance, Year of the Rabbit, a collaboration between…Continue reading »
CalArtians Nominated for Ovation and NAACP Theatre Awards
Update 1: Actor Jacqueline Wright (Theater BFA 91) was also nominated for an Ovation Award for "Lead Actress In A Play" for her role as Jon Benét in 'House of Gold.' Update…Continue reading »
Online Archive Features 200 REDCAT Poster Designs
[nggallery id="277″] By Joseph Prichard/Special to 24700 Since its inception in 2005, nearly 200 posters have been designed and printed by CalArts graphic design students for the REDCAT poster series….Continue reading »
WHAP! Lecture Series Returns: Electoral Politics and the Fight for Equality
WHAP!—the MA Aesthetics and Politics program's year-long series of lectures and events in West Hollywood is back. The series opens tonight (Sept. 21) with author, historian, civic leader and political commentator Nancy…Continue reading »
Alumna Directs Smokey Robinson's One-Man Show, Words
Linda Cevallos-French (Dance BFA 89) is set to direct R&B legend Smokey Robinson in his debut performance of Words at the historic El Portal Theater in North Hollywood this weekend…Continue reading »
The Bootleg Theatre Presents Roger Guenveur Smith's 'Rodney King'
CalArts School of Theater faculty member Roger Guenveur Smith takes to the stage with his latest work Rodney King in a limited-run production at the The Bootleg Theater (Sept. 20-28)….Continue reading »


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Smile, You're on Nico Nico Douga!
Discuss in the Zam Forums.
Yoshi-P shows off their hard work on the Alpha in a live stream event and gives a few more details on things to come in the Beta!
"Hello everyone!
Pinurabi here, filling in again for the indisposed Fernehalwes. Mwahaha... Mwahahahahaaa!
...Ahem! Please disregard that little outburst, folks. My coffee went down the wrong way. Now, on to the blog!
Today we have a back stage report on the livestream event that took place yesterday under the auspices of our friends at Nico Nico Douga.
First up, a scene from the technical rehearsal. Three PCs were prepared for the occasion, outfitted with low-, mid-, and high-spec hardware respectively.
Graphic settings were maxed out across all three machines, so there was hardly any difference in visual quality. Naturally, though, the frame rate is bound to suffer a bit on lower end systems, and we recommend you set the graphics quality to standard for optimal playability.
Next is a shot of the studio right before the program went live. Our very own project manager of "M"ystery was present to observe the proceedings alongside members of the press. Nico Nico Douga personalities Hiroyuki and Higeoyaji hosted the program, and both were at their playful best.
Here we have the "Mogbook" PC that was used for the Windows8 touch panel demo. It was a spur of the moment decision to hold the demo, and the PC was commandeered from one of our programmers during the wee hours of the morning on the day of the livestream.
Yoshi-P and Kuplu Kopo fielding questions during the post-program interview.
Loose bits and pieces Yoshi-P smuggled in for the occasion. As always, our marketing people were not impressed, lol.
It's hardly been a day since the livestream, but numerous articles covering the event have already found their way online. Nonetheless, we're looking to put together a summary of all that went down for the benefit of our fans overseas as well as those who missed the livestream. Stay tuned for more news on this front!


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Our Goals
To secure effective and non-discriminatory pathways into an expanded range of quality jobs for women.
To secure the rights and conditions necessary for women to earn a living wage.
To ensure that girls and women have safety and equity in access to education at all levels.
To expand legal rights and services for women who are victims of violence.
To ensure that critical policies and services will be responsive to the realities of women's lives.


text:
Eclipse IDE
1211 Solutions and counting.
COLA Tests m2e connector - No longer required (see details)
JUnit + BDD = COLA Tests
COLA Tests is a BDD framework built on top of JUnit.
It is easy to use, setup and above all, DOES NOT r...
Testing, Team Development, IDE, Collaboration, Tools
Last Updated on Monday, February 4, 2019 - 13:54 by Bruno Santos
Easily develop, execute, analyze and debug your tests on remote physical devices
End-to-end mobile test automation from Eclipse
Perform test development, automation project development, and t...
Testing, General Purpose Tools, Tools, Mobile and Device Development
Last Updated on Wednesday, October 4, 2023 - 02:29 by ruth zamir
AppPerfect provides comprehensive suite of products for functional and load testing of web and windows based applications. These products that are designed to help you test your application throug...
Last Updated on Tuesday, August 4, 2015 - 10:28 by AppPerfect Corp
AppPerfect offers following products for complete and comprehensive solution for testing and monitoring the performance of your application. These products that are designed to help you test your a...
Source Code Analyzer, Profiling, Testing
Last Updated on Tuesday, August 4, 2015 - 10:07 by AppPerfect Corp
AppPerfect DevTest4J is a comprehensive suite of products consisting of java code analyzer, unit tester and profiler.
Last Updated on Tuesday, August 4, 2015 - 10:20 by AppPerfect Corp
Source folders: Automatically configure source folders for the generated assertion classes.
Refresh: Automatically refresh the generated assertion classes upon source changes.
Build and Deploy, Application Development Frameworks, Testing
Last Updated on Tuesday, March 8, 2016 - 14:05 by Jörg enne
Clover measures Java and Groovy code coverage and optimises your test execution so you can prioritise new test development, get faster feedback of test results, and reduce risk of defects.
Testing, Reporting, Source Code Analyzer, Tools, Code Management
Last Updated on Wednesday, December 14, 2022 - 09:47 by Atlassian Mising name
This plug-in lets you integrate with BrowserStack SDK with minimal manual steps. All the required dependencies related to BrowserStack SDK are installed automatically inside your test suite. You ca...
Testing, IDE
Last Updated on Friday, July 14, 2023 - 10:15 by Francis Fernandes
Contracts for Java (C4J
Contracts for Java (C4J) is a Contracts framework for Java 1.6 and later. The primary goal for C4J is ease of use. Contracts are about design and quality, aspects of progra...
Tools, Testing, General Purpose Tools
Last Updated on Monday, February 4, 2019 - 13:50 by C4J VKSI
The CAM editor is the leading open source XML Editor/Validation/Schema design tool for rapidly building and deploying XML / SQL information exchanges. With visual WYSIWYG structure, rule entry wiza...
Testing, Tools, XML, Editor, SOA Development
Last Updated on Thursday, May 2, 2013 - 17:11 by David Webber
Cantata advanced high productivity techniques allow developers to dynamically prove their code with intelligent unit and integration testing, in the most cost effective manner. The Cantata Eclipse...
Systems Development, Source Code Analyzer, Testing, Tools
Last Updated on Tuesday, January 31, 2017 - 11:21 by Jasmine Williams
Cigital SecureAssist is a plugin for Eclipse which points out common security vulnerabilities as the developer is coding. It reduces risk by delivering actionable guidance in context based on Cigi...
Source Code Analyzer, Tools, Testing
Last Updated on Monday, November 11, 2013 - 16:02 by Tim Buntel
Leveraging Requirements Engineering (RE) and Model-Based Testing (MBT) practices is challenging. On one hand, use case specifications may lack information that is key to automated test case generat...
Documentation, Testing, Tools, UML
Last Updated on Tuesday, October 6, 2020 - 09:28 by Dalton Jorge
Contrast Security is the world's leading provider of security technology that enables software to become self-protecting software. Contrast's patented deep security instrumentation is the...
Source Code Analyzer, Team Development, Testing, Tools
Last Updated on Tuesday, July 20, 2021 - 09:24 by Harold McGinnis
An Eclipse plugin for Cucumber .
New Feature list in the version available from the update site:
Lambda Expression support for Cucumber-Java8
Content Assistance for feature fi...
Programming Languages, Tools, Application Development Frameworks, Testing, Languages
Last Updated on Friday, July 14, 2023 - 10:13 by Girija Prasad Panda
Automated unit testing supports high quality of program code, even under inevitable change and refactoring. As a side effect, unit tested code often has a better structure. Java developers are used...
Last Updated on Wednesday, December 14, 2022 - 09:46 by Thomas Corbat
This small plugin is just an entry in the pop-up menu for classes that allow you to see a preview of a Draw2d class while you are editing it.
I saves you a lot of time when you are developping fea...
Testing, Modeling, Modeling Tools, Graphics, Tools
Last Updated on Friday, January 15, 2021 - 10:16 by Mickael Istria
ARM DS-5™ Professional is the reference software development tool suite for ARM Powered® platforms. It is the tool-chain of choice for software developers who want to fully realize the be...
Profiling, Testing, Tools, IDE
Last Updated on Thursday, January 19, 2023 - 09:41 by Rob Moran
ecFeed is a tool for modelling generating and executing tests. Test cases are modeled as a classification tree. Extensive constraints provide a way to specify relationships between test case's ...
Testing, Modeling Tools, Modeling
Last Updated on Friday, January 15, 2021 - 10:14 by Patryk Chamuczyński
EclEmma is a free Java code coverage tool for Eclipse, available under the Eclipse Public License. It brings code coverage analysis directly into the Eclipse workbench:
Fast develop/test cycl...
Tools, Testing
Last Updated on Friday, July 14, 2023 - 10:16 by Marc R. Hoffmann


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Miss Flighty's decadent recipe for freshly whipped heavy cocktail cream with vanilla, brown sugar, and a hint of spice. Part one of two episodes on her special version of the White Russian, so be sure to catch them both.
Miss Flighty mixes up one of her deluxe White Russians with Skyy Vanilla vodka, Kahula, topped by a thick layer of heavy whipping cream prepared with a hint of spice.
Alberta's answer to the Appletini, the Mac Daddy combines Vanilla Vodka, Luxardo, and Pimm's, with slices of tangy fresh apple and her signature Ginger Cardamom Syrup.
The Lemondrop is a drink that customers ask for no matter how fancy your cocktail list. Scoff if you like but when its made with premium fresh ingredients like Square One Organic Vodka, Cointreau, and locally sourced lemon, its easy to see why the drink is still popular. Its simple, easy to make, and wont send you backpacking across Siberia trying to locate component of its recipe.
Arriving at a appropriate name for a new drink concoction is often the most difficult part of the process for many mixologists, but in the case of A Date with David Bowie Miss Flighty faced the unique challenge of creating a drink for a customer who already had a name in mind.
The PSAde is a vodka Aperol refresher with rounds of tangerine, blood orange, and cucumber muddled in for the brightest freshest flavor.
Miss Flighty offers up her Bloody Mary Mix recipe, chock full of savory flavor, and easy to make at home. Horseradish, garlic powder, cilantro, celery salt, hot sauce, chilies, lime make up this fiery blend is more than a hangover remedy, its a meal!
An intriguing flavorful home made infused Bloody Mary Vodka that is simple to make at home. The recipe uses an assortment of herbs and spices, such as Ancho Chilies for their rich smokiness, garlic, cilantro, lemongrass, coriander, juniper berries, and bay leafs combine to make a "pepper" vodka that in contrast to most commercial varieties that are simply hot, it can also be enjoyed on its own as a shot for the adventurous drinker.
Site Design by: Press75.com


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Posted by Editoress on 08/2/12
Clara Hughes, one of Canada's greatest Olympians, rode her final Olympic race yesterday, finished fifth in the women's time trial. During her career, Hughes won two medals in cycling at the 1996 Atlanta Games, and then four in speedskating, making her one of a handful of athletes to have won medals in both summer and winter Games, and the only person in history to have won multiple medals in both.
Between the numerous post-race demands on her time, Clara sat down with us for 15 minutes to talk about her final race and plans for the future.
Clara Hughes heads to the finish of her final Olympic race
Canadian Cyclist: So, your final race?
Clara Hughes: Yeah ... someone from the outside might look at it and say 'are you disappointed with fifth place?' But honestly, it was everything I had, I couldn't have gone harder today, and I was fifth best in the world. That's just the bottom line.
Everything was really good - I had really good preparation, my equipment was awesome ... everything that I used and wore was absolutely the best. There was nothing I could have wanted for. I could just have wanted for stronger legs on the day, but that was it ... I did the best I could and that's all it is.
CC: Were you surprised with how strong some of the other riders were? Were they stronger than you expected here?
CH: No, no. When I finished the race, I know by how I felt that that wasn't a medal performance. I gave it everything I had, but I can say that I didn't feel awesome, that extra little bit of something that I've felt when I've had great performances at the Olympics.
I didn't feel that physically, not because I wasn't prepared, I just felt really, really good ... and really, really good isn't enough at the Olympics. Not at this level.
CC: When we talked at Nationals, you said your back was still bothering you from your crash at Gatineau, but now you've revealed it's more than that?
CH: It was actually fractured in that crash, I fractured the spinous process [the bit that sticks out and attaches muscles and ligaments] on the T7 vertebrae, and it was really a living hell for six weeks. There was so much pain.
At Nationals, that was kind of when the pain started subsiding somewhat. I was able to train and race through it, so I was really lucky that it wasn't an injury that put me on my back. It was just really, really painful. I've never in my life experienced that kind of pain on a daily basis, over and over and over again. Basically any time I moved my right arm it was like someone was stabbing me in the back.
I was lucky that I have a really good osteopath in France who I ended up going and seeing before the Giro d'Italia [Giro Donne], and he was able to unlock what was causing all the pain. The actual fracture itself wasn't what was causing me the pain, it was that the joint was completely locked, so when I moved my arm, all the muscles were yanking on the rib which was stuck to the vertebrae; that's what was giving me the pain.
So I was lucky, even though I was unlucky, because I really didn't have to back off training or racing at all. And eventually it did heal, and I've been pain-free since I saw my osteopath, so that worked out really well and I was able to prepare 100% ... so I don't think it held me back at all. It was just really annoying and painful.
CC: So are you 'Done - Done', or will you do Worlds?
CH: I'm pretty sure that I want to do the [new] team time trial for the world championships, it's really important for my team [Specialized-lululemon]. Believe me, right now, no, I don't want to do that, but I'll step away from this, and I'll remotivate, and I find a lot of inspiration racing with my team mates, and I look forward to that. But this was definitely my last Olympic race.
And I say that with a really big smile, because it was a gift to be able to do this. It really was, and to be a part of the national team right now ... it's just in a really good place. They gave me all the support I needed.
B2ten [a private corporate group that raises money for athletes] supported me, but it was also the support of Jacques Landry [High Performance Director] and the national team that allowed me to take everything that was around me and utilize it, and they really let me do this in my own way, and I appreciate that so much.
There's just a lot of good people right now in the sport, and I cannot wait to see the track events and the mountain bike events here, and just see where the national team grows and goes from this place. I just think it's a really beautiful beginning for, I hope, many years of success to come. Especially with Ryder's Giro d'Italia win, I just think that there's this turning point that may be happening in our country with cycling. It's really cool.
CC: We've seen Canadian riders coming back to the sport - Jacques' come back, and Denise [Kelly - women's road endurance coach], Curt's [Harnett] is getting more involved ....
CH: and Gord Fraser ...
CC: Yes, Gord as well ... Are we going to see you maybe getting involved in some stuff?
CH: No, not in that capacity, but I hope I can always be involved, just in terms of mentorship or even ... I've been kind of trying to help the girls that I see on the road [national program], that have really good potential, I'll do everything I can to help get them on the good teams on the road, and I'll always be here for any young athlete ... or old athlete too [laughs] ... that maybe wants some advice or wants to ask some questions. 100%, I'll always be there, but as a job? No thanks!
CC: So what is next? After the last [2010] Olympics you went on a canoe trip; anything else planned?
CH: There's a big announcement happening tomorrow, with one of the things I'm doing [Clara is joining Right to Play's International Board of Directors]; it will bring me to Africa in the near future, and other than that ... I don't know.
You know, I really just want to ride my bike and not have to go hard ... so I can see a bike tour in the near future, with my husband [Peter]. That would make both of us really, really happy.
CC: So looking back, from your first Olympics, in 1996, and now your sixth, that's quite a span. What's your perspective on how things have changed in cycling?
CH: I think cycling is in as good or a better place than it was in Atlanta [when Canada won five medals in cycling]. I say probably better, because of what is in place now. In Atlanta we had huge success, but there was nothing in place to sustain that, and now I really hope the team is going to have success here, because it will validate what's been put in place, and what is going to blossom. What they have in place now is sustainable, and it will grow if it gets the funding and support it needs. If it gets those two things it will just take off, and we can become one of the best cycling nations. It's pretty awesome to see, and I'm just blown away, and really hopeful and happy for the sport in Canada.
There are so many good young riders. Denise Ramsden is awesome, and I look at Jasmin [Glaesser] and Gillian [Carleton], I mean there's so many young ones coming up ... on the guy's side, I don't know if it's ever been this strong, and so many of them are young.
So, it's cool.
Around London
Olympic Games July 28/12 - August 12/12, London, UK
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text: 1823. 28 July. John Hopton Forbes to Christopher Jeaffreson... M119. Jeaffreson, Christopher, fl. 1756-1824 (d. after 21 May 1824). still image text Manuscripts Correspondence London (England) 1823-07-28 English eng text 4 images John Hopton Forbes to Christopher Jeaffreson, 2p. Original digital object name: bei-m119l10 Plantations -- Saint Kitts and Nevis -- Records and correspondence West Indies -- History letters (correspondence) North and Central America Leeward Islands Saint Kitts and Nevis bei-m119l10 This digital resource is provided by the Special Collections department, Hamilton College, Clinton, New York, United States. Beinecke Collection Special Collections, Burke Library, Hamilton College, Clinton, New York, United States There are no restrictions on access to this resource. The organization that has made the item available reasonably believes that the Item is not restricted by copyright or related rights, but a conclusive determination could not be made. You are free to use this item in any way that is permitted by the copyright and related rights legislation that applies to your use. http://rightsstatements.org/vocab/NKC/1.0/ Hamilton College Library, Clinton, New York, United States 2016 English eng Forbes, John Hopton, 1789-1873 Author aut Jeaffreson, Christopher, Lieutenant-General, ca. 1760-1824 Addressee rcp Saint Kitts


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Hubble spots candidate for most distant known galaxy [heic1217]
15 November 2012By combining the power of the NASA/ESA Hubble Space Telescope, NASA's Spitzer Space Telescope and one of nature's zoom lenses, astronomers have found what is probably the most distant galaxy yet seen in the Universe. The object offers a peek back into a time when the Universe was only 3 percent of its present age of 13.7 billion years.
|The newly discovered galaxy MACS0647-JD (inset). Credit: NASA, ESA, and M. Postman and D. Coe (Space Telescope Science Institute), and the CLASH team
We see the newly discovered galaxy, named MACS0647-JD, as it was 420 million years after the Big Bang. Its light has travelled for 13.3 billion years to reach Earth, which corresponds to a redshift of approximately 11 [1].
This is the latest discovery from the Cluster Lensing And Supernova survey with Hubble (CLASH) [2], which uses massive galaxy clusters as cosmic telescopes to magnify distant galaxies behind them, an effect called gravitational lensing.
"While one occasionally expects to find an extremely distant galaxy using the tremendous power of gravitational lensing, this latest discovery has outstripped even my expectations of what would be possible with the CLASH program," said Rychard Bouwens (Leiden University, Netherlands), a co-author of the study. "The science output in this regard has been incredible."
Along the way, 8 billion years into its journey, the galaxy's light took a detour along multiple paths around the massive galaxy cluster MACS J0647.7+7015. Due to the gravitational lensing, the team observed three magnified images of MACS0647-JD with Hubble. The cluster's gravity boosted the light from the faraway galaxy, making the images appear far brighter than they otherwise would, although they still appear as tiny dots in Hubble's portrait.
"This cluster does what no manmade telescope can do," said Marc Postman (Space Telescope Science Institute, USA), leader of the CLASH team. "Without the magnification, it would require a Herculean effort to observe this galaxy."
The object is so small it may be in the first stages of galaxy formation, with analysis showing the galaxy is less than 600 light-years across. For comparison the Milky Way is
"This object may be one of many building blocks of a galaxy," explained Dan Coe (Space Telescope Science Institute), lead author of the study. "Over the next 13 billion years, it may have dozens, hundreds, or even thousands of merging events with other galaxies and galaxy fragments."
The team spent months systematically ruling out all other alternative explanations for the object's identity before concluding that it is the distance record holder. This was important, as nearby objects (such as red stars, brown dwarfs and old or dusty galaxies) can mimic the appearance of an extremely distant galaxy and must be carefully excluded.
The area around the galaxy was observed by Hubble through 17 filters — spanning near-ultraviolet to near-infrared wavelengths — with the galaxy appearing only in the two reddest filters. This was consistent with a highly redshifted galaxy, but did not fully exclude other possibilities. Images of the galaxy at longer infrared wavelengths taken by Spitzer were more conclusive, however: if the object were intrinsically red, it would appear bright in these images. Instead, the galaxy was barely detected, if at all.
MACS0647-JD may be too far away for any current telescope to confirm the distance with spectroscopy [3]. Nevertheless, all the evidence points towards the fledgling galaxy being the new distance record holder.
The galaxy will almost certainly be a prime target for the James Webb Space Telescope, scheduled for launch in 2018, which will be able to conduct spectroscopy to make a definitive measurement of its distance and study its properties in more detail.
[1] Redshift is a consequence of the expansion of space over cosmic time, which stretches the wavelength of light. This has the consequence of making a distant object appear redder than it really is. Objects with a higher redshift have had their light stretched more, and are more distant. The previous candidate for the most distant object observed has a redshift of 10.3 (see heic1103); confirmations of several objects with redshifts between 7 and 9 have been reported using spectroscopy, which gives more robust results (see for example eso1041). This newly discovered galaxy's redshift has been calculated as being approximately 10.8, with a 95 percent confidence that it lies between 10.3 and 11.3.
[2] The new distance champion is the second remote galaxy uncovered in the CLASH survey, a multiwavelength census of 25 hefty galaxy clusters with Hubble's Advanced Camera for Surveys (ACS) and Wide Field Camera 3 (WFC3) instruments. Earlier this year, the CLASH team announced the discovery of a galaxy that existed when the Universe was about 490 million years old (redshift 9.6), 70 million years later than the new record-breaking galaxy. So far, the survey has completed observations for 20 of the 25 clusters.
[3] Redshift can only be precisely measured using spectroscopy, in which an object's light is dispersed and its colour probed in detail. However, it can be estimated by comparing images made of an object through different coloured filters, a method called photometric redshift. The galaxy will only be visible in some of the filters (having been redshifted out of some filters altogether), and the redshift is derived from the bluest filter in which the galaxy is visible. Photometric redshifts, as used in this study, provide less certainty, but they can be calculated for objects much fainter than is possible with spectroscopic redshifts. For this reason, the paper refers to the object as a 'candidate z≈11 galaxy'.
More information
The Hubble Space Telescope is a project of international cooperation between ESA and NASA.
The international team of astronomers in this study consists of:
Dan Coe (Space Telescope Science Institute, Baltimore, USA), Adi Zitrin (Institut für Theoretische Astrophysik, Heidelberg, Germany), Mauricio Carrasco (Institut für Theoretische Astrophysik, Heidelberg, Germany and Pontifica Universidad Católica de Chile, Santiago, Chile), Xinwen Shu (University of Science and Technology of China, Hefei, China), Wei Zheng (Johns Hopkins University, Baltimore, USA), Marc Postman (Space Telescope Science Institute, Baltimore, USA), Larry Bradley (Space Telescope Science Institute, Baltimore, USA), Anton Koekemoer (Space Telescope Science Institute, Baltimore, USA), Rychard Bouwens (Leiden University, Netherlands), Tom Broadhurst (University of the Basque Country, Bilbao, Spain and Ikerbasque Basque Foundation for Science, Bilbao, Spain) Anna Monna (Universitätssternwarter München, Munich, Germany), Ole Host (University College London, London, UK and Dark Cosmology Centre, Niels Bohr Institute, University of Copenhagen, Denmark), Leonidas A. Moustakas (Jet Propulsion Laboratory, California Institute of Technology, La Cañada Flintridge, USA), Holland Ford (Johns Hopkins University, Baltimore, USA), John Moustakas (Siena College, Loudonville, USA), Arjen van der Wel (Max Planck Institute for AStronomy, Heidelberg, Germany), Megan Donahue (Michigan State University, East Lansing, USA), Steven A. Rodney (Johns Hopkins University, Baltimore, USA), Narciso Bentez (Instituto de Astrofísica de Andalucía, Granada, Spain), Stephanie Jouvel (University College London, London, UK and Institut de Cincies de l'Espai, Bellaterra (Barcelona), Spain), Stella Seitz (Universitätssternwarte München, Munich, Germany and Max Planck Institute for Extraterrestrial Physics, Garching, Germany), Daniel D. Kelson (Carnegie Observatories, Pasadena, USA), and Piero Rosati (European Southern Observatory, Garching, Germany).
The research is presented in a paper entitled "CLASH: Three Strongly Lensed Images of a Candidate z≈11 Galaxy" to be published in the December 20 issue of the Astrophysical Journal.
Rychard Bouwens
Leiden University
Leiden, Netherlands
Phone: +31-71-527-8456
Email: bouwensstrw.leidenuniv.nl
Dan Coe
Space Telescope Science Institute
Baltimore, USA
Phone: +1-410-338-4312
Email: dcoestsci.edu
Oli Usher
Garching, Munich
Phone: +49-89-3200-6855
Email: oushereso.org


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We also welcome contributions of biographical information or essays from those outside Agnes Scott College. If you are interested in contributing an essay, please send your contribution to the email address below. Comments, suggestions, or corrections can also be sent to this address.
To increase awareness of women's ongoing contributions to the mathematical sciences, the Association for Women in Mathematics sponsors an essay contest for biographies of contemporary women mathematicians and statisticians in academic, industrial, and government careers. This contest is open to students in the following categories: Grades 6-8, Grades 9-12, and College Undergraduate. At least one winning submission will be chosen from each category. Winners will receive a prize, and their essays will be published online at the AWM website. Additionally, a grand prize winner will have his or her submission published in the AWM Newsletter. For more information and to see the results of past Essay Contests, go to https://awm-math.org/awards/student-essay-contest/.
Agnes Scott College, founded in 1889, is a private liberal arts college for women in Decatur, a part of Atlanta, Georgia.
Looking for college scholarships for women? Agnes Scott, a top liberal arts college, offers women generous scholarships based on academic record, academic interests, and ethnic and religious affiliations.
Visit the Agnes Scott College Mathematics Department website.


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For further information about the Art & Art History Department please contact department chair Stephen Mohring.
Art – Studio (ARTS)
Studio art introduces students to many ways that artists think and work by presenting a variety of technical and conceptual approaches to different media. Students develop their abilities to create images and objects, as well as their sense of purpose behind artistic expression. Students also explore the critical role art plays in society. Courses are designed both for students who want to try art for the first time and for potential majors and students who might pursue careers in art.
Can I major in it? Yes, a studio art major is offered.
Topics explored: Courses are offered in drawing, painting, printmaking, paper arts, photography, sculpture, metals, ceramics, woodworking, book arts, and digital and electronic media.
How to get started: Students interested in taking studio art courses should enroll in one of the drawing courses, ARTS 110 (Observational Drawing) or ARTS 113 (Field Drawing). Either of these courses fulfills the pre-requisite for almost every other studio art course. At least one section of ARTS 110 is reserved for first-year students each year. Students who wish to pursue 3-D courses, such as ceramics and metals, without taking a drawing course may take ARTS 122 (Introduction to Studio Sculpture) as a pre-requisite.
Students who have taken a college-level drawing course (AP or IB) or have other comparable experience may petition to place out of the 100-level drawing courses by submitting a drawing portfolio to the department.
Students contemplating a major in studio art should take at least one introductory studio course during their first year. It is also recommended that potential studio art majors take an art history course in their first year.
Art History (ARTH)
Art history introduces students to the analysis of artistic images, artifacts and architecture from different cultures and time periods. Students examine the historical context for the production and viewing of such works, their functions and meanings, and their roles in shaping people, perceptions, events and societies.
Can I major in it? Yes, an art history major is offered, along with a minor.
Topics explored: Art and architecture as political tools, as cultural touchstones, as objects and structures used in religious practices; artistic and architectural techniques, styles and media; race, class and gender in art; art theory; cultural patrimony issues; and many other issues.