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The sun is an important part of our lives. Sunny days have a positive impact on our mood, increase our level of physical activity, make many social events and gatherings possible, and even benefit our health by providing our bodies with essential vitamin D.
Unfortunately, sun exposure also presents risk factors that can lead to skin or eye damage, and even skin cancer. Skin cancer is the most common of all cancer types. Most skin cancers are caused by too much exposure to the sun's ultraviolet (UV) rays.
Prevention and early detection are the best ways to keep your skin healthy. It's important to learn what you can do to protect yourself and how to spot any possible signs of skin cancer.
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Here are some easy ways to protect your skin from sun damage:
Wear sunscreen with a SPF 15 or higher. If you have fair skin or light hair, you are more susceptible to the sun's rays and should use a sunscreen with a higher SPF.
Choose sunscreen labeled "broad spectrum" meaning that it protects against two types of harmful rays: UVA and UVB.
Use waterproof sunscreen to make sure it stays on longer, even if you perspire or get wet.
Reapply sunscreen often – usually every two hours, but sooner if you've been swimming or are perspiring heavily.
Cover your whole body. Remember those areas that can be easy to forget, such as your ears, eyelids, lips, nose, hands, feet, and the top of your head.
Seek shade or avoid the sun during the peak hours of 10am – 4pm. The sun is strongest during those hours, even on cloudy days.
Wear a hat with a wide brim to help shade your eyes, ears and head.
Wear wrap-around sunglasses that provide 100% UV protection to safeguard your eyes.
Wear lightweight, loose-fitting clothing that protects a larger area of your skin such as long-sleeve shirts or long pants. Tightly woven fabrics in dark or bright colors are best.
Examining Your Skin
Get a professional skin examination from a dermatologist once a year, and learn how to perform a monthly self-examination. Skin self-exams do not require any special medical equipment. All you need are your eyes, a mirror, and the knowledge of what to look for. Here are some tips:
- Perform skin self-examinations in a well-lit room in front of a full-length mirror. Use a handheld mirror for hard-to-see places.
- Learn the pattern of your moles, freckles or other birthmarks so that you will notice any changes.
- Look for new growths, spots, bumps or sores that do not heal normally.
- Don't forget hard-to-see areas of your body such as your head, the underside of your arms, the backs of your legs, and between your toes.
- Know the "ABCDs" of moles. If you have any moles that fit the following criteria, ask your doctor to check them out.
Asymmetrical: Is the mole oddly shaped?
Border: Does the mole have irregular or vaguely defined borders?
Color: Does the mole have uneven coloring or multiple colors?
Diameter: Is the mole larger than a pencil eraser or is it growing in size?
This article originally appeared on ONA


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United States Armed Forces
The United States Armed Forces are the federal armed forces of the United States. They consist of the Army, Marine Corps, Navy, Air Force, and Coast Guard. The President of the United States is the military's overall head, and helps form military policy with the U.S. Department of Defense (DoD), a federal executive department, acting as the principal organ by which military policy is carried out.
From the time of its inception, the military played a decisive role in the history of the United States. A sense of national unity and identity was forged as a result of victory in the First Barbary War and the Second Barbary War. Even so, the Founders were suspicious of a permanent military force. It played an important role in the American Civil War, where leading generals on both sides were picked from members of the United States military. Not until the outbreak of World War II did a large standing army become officially established. The National Security Act of 1947, adopted following World War II and during the Cold War's onset, created the modern U.S. military framework; the Act merged previously Cabinet-level Department of War and the Department of the Navy into the National Military Establishment (renamed the Department of Defense in 1949), headed by the Secretary of Defense; and created the Department of the Air Force and National Security Council.
The U.S. military is one of the largest militaries in terms of number of personnel. It draws its personnel from a large pool of paid volunteers; although conscription has been used in the past in various times of both war and peace, it has not been used since 1972. As of 2016, the United States spends about $761.2 billion annually to fund its military forces and Overseas Contingency Operations. Put together, the United States constitutes roughly 40 percent of the world's military expenditures. For the period 2010–14, the Stockholm International Peace Research Institute (SIPRI) found that the United States was the world's largest exporter of major arms, accounting for 31 per cent of global shares. The United States was also the world's eighth largest importer of major weapons for the same period. The U.S. military has significant capabilities in both defense and power projection due to its large budget, resulting in advanced and powerful equipment, and its widespread deployment of force around the world, including about 800 military bases in foreign locations.

subset: commoncrawl


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Retrolution collection at the top of this post), What Katie Did, Dita Von Teese, Agent Provocateur, and Kiss Me Deadly--to name just a few.
|Agent Provocateur Abby Basque
|What Katie Did Valerie Cathedral Bra
|Dita Von Teese Star Lift collection
|Agent Provocateur Abby Basque
|What Katie Did Valerie Cathedral Bra
|Dita Von Teese Star Lift collection
I've recently become interested in sewing lingerie, but it's still intimidating to me. So much of it seems to require specialized items that aren't readily available where I am, plus many patterns seem to rely on a serger.ReplyDelete
I love your books and blog (though I don't comment) and would love to see a lingerie book. There are not enough lingerie books out there, IMO. I have made bras in the past and am about to take an online lingerie sloper-making course. I would love to know more about retro lingerie. I think there are many women who are intimidated by the thought of making their own, but shouldn't be. It's so nice to have pretty things that fit better than store-bought and are much more affordable (if willing to put in the time). Please consider a book!ReplyDelete
I would gladly purchase a book on the subject. Sizing issues and lack of knowledge have prevented me from tackling the projects so far. I have trouble with bras because of my small band size and large cup size. I don't feel confident that I would be successful making my own lingerie yet, but I'm definitely interested in learning more. If I could get a book like those you've already created that explores lingerie I'd be very, very happy.ReplyDelete
I would write exactly the same comment. :)
So you can count +1.
Me too. I already own a bra making book, but my attempts have failed because of my size (small band and large cup - 30H). I can't seem to find a pattern that comes in my size, or instructions on how to alter it to my size. If you include either of those, with fitting advice, I'd be all over it! I'd also love if it included patterns to make lingerie like basques and bustiers sized by bra size, because I've never seen a pattern for that, and ready to wear doesn't carry my size!Delete
I also would buy your lingeriebook, even though it is in English and that is not my native language. I have already one of you're books and ik love the detailness you put into the writing. When i can pre-ordering it now and that will help you decide.... I love books more than just the patternsReplyDelete
A book would be amazing! I don't think it would be niche now.ReplyDelete
Gertie, lingerie sewing is really on trend and growing right now. You should totally do a book. I love your Butterick pattern, but it just wet my appetite and now I need some serious lingerie sewing.ReplyDelete
I wish I could...
I'd like to sew mine because I usually can't find beautiful lingerie in my size. But I don't have much money, and I think those fabrics that are stretchy and blinky must be too expensive. I also don't think I have the skill to do that (I'm a beginner). Lingerie has so much different pieces...
I would love to, but alas, I've yet to find underwires in my size--apparently if you're above a D cup you're expected to just rip your underwires out of your old bras to make new ones. :CReplyDelete
Any of the lingerie suppliers that I know of have large underwires, they are just usually numbered according to the band size of the B cup, so you order the sister size you need. Sew Sassy, Fabric Depot, Bra Essentials, Bra Makers Supply all have underwires that go to fairly large sizes.Delete
My interest in this stems from my desire to wear bras WITHOUT underwires, but as a 34EE, I can't find them anywhere (frankly, it's hard enough finding bras that fit, let alone ones that are appealing or meet my likes in a bra). I don't mind a little boning under the arm, but I can't stand underwires.Delete
Sewing lingerie involves not only a great pattern, but a great understanding of fitting, fabric and tons of supplies, infinite patience and great taste. I've been sewing for 20 plus years and don't think I'll go the lingerie way. Too complex and expensive if you want to sew something like Ditta or Agent P. Not for me, thanks.ReplyDelete
I enjoy sewing my own lingerie. I mostly buy up vintage bras that fit, take pattern from them and make copies. I've been lucky and found 2 vintage longline bras, one from the late 50's/early 60's I think, the other has the shape of a bullet bra, but not quite as pointy. I own quite a few vintage bra patterns as well, but I find them hard to fit properly. I suspect that some of it has to do with building experience with what type of pattern/bra flatters your figure. For me bra patterns relying on darts for shape doesn't really work.
I've considered sewing girdles as well, but haven't gotten around to it yet. The same goes here. I've bought up vintage girdles that fit, and will use them for patterns. I had always wanted one of the boned hight waist girdles that fastens with heavy duty hooks and eyes and got hold of one last year. Turns out it's really stiff and uncomfortable. I'm glad I found that out before taking the time and energy to make one. In my opinion the best girdles are the pull on ones made for gentle shaping and support.
Rather a long comment, this, but yes; if you put together a book on vintage lingerie sewing including patterns, fitting instructions etc I would be interested. Especially if you include information on what types of bras work well for different body types.
I think bra and lingerie sewing is becoming very popular right now! Gorgeous, vintage-looking lingerie like this would be very excited to see as either single patterns or possibly a book.ReplyDelete
i've noticed increasing numbers of bloggers talking about sewing their own lingerie and the orange lingerie book seems to be popular. i reckon it would do well!ReplyDelete
I make corsets and girdles using historical patterns and vintage ones. Try the Jill Salen books for some inspiration. ;)ReplyDelete
I read that the bra making class is Craftsy's #1 seller. I think that you were just a bit early with your book idea and now's the time.ReplyDelete
I started making my own corsets in 2014, and I love that. I would dearly like to see a book on lingerie that gets deep into the really pretty stuff and leaves the endless simple slip and jammie patterns alone. (A shaped slip made out of woven fabric would be nice). No knits, outside of undies.
A lingerie book that showed me exactly how to make what Dita up there is wearing, or something similar? I'd buy that in a hot second. Yet another "look, I attached a doily from the thrift shop to a cheap slip and dyed the lot to match!" book? No.
I think that a book that challenged your readers would be more interesting to read. And the research for the book might make good blog material
That doily comment cracked me up! You're absolutely spot on. I hired a book from the library which promoted itself as a definitive book of lingerie patterns...it was really more like 'sew lace trim on your singlet'! 'How to rock the skanky 90s look with a doily bra!' Etc.Delete
Yes please. I really want to sew my own. It is one place I think you really get the cost benefit on the end product!ReplyDelete
I've been interested in learning corsetry, I've been turned off by the flimsiness of the offerings in pattern catalogs. These curves need support and if I'm gonna go to the work to make a true structured piece I want high quality materials (like spiral steel boning, not the plastic stuff at JoAnn's). I think there is a place for this to be explored, whether by book or some other means.ReplyDelete
I have sewn a few bullet bras for myself and found it fun and satisfying, and way more affordable than buying vintage reproductions. I would definitely be interested in a book on the subject of vintage lingerie, and I think plenty of girls are going to agree. I think patterns for individual pieces would also be a great idea, and would probably be good sellers, because sometimes people don't want to buy a whole book when they only want to make one or two different things, especially if they are already experienced. I am more interested in things that are more true to the vintage pieces they are based off of, like cotton bullet bras... not a huge fan of knits or underwire. If you were to write a book, a good balance of true vintage type pieces and those that are more "wearable" and modern but vintage inspired would have something for everyone.ReplyDelete
Puh-LEASE make more patterns or a blog series or book about sewing retro lingerie! I have no experience with sewing lingerie, but I'm looking into it, as reproduction vintage lingerie is so very expensive. It would be so amazing if you went further into it!ReplyDelete
I think a book would probably do well. My interest is piqued, and I did buy your pattern. I am a bit intimidated by advanced lingerie, but a book that had projects for varying skill levels or projects that built your skills as you went along would be interesting. I always look through books before buying to see if there are enough projects I would actually make. If there are only one or two, I don't buy it, but if I am interested in half or more, I often do--or if I feel that the book is a good reference with information that I can't get elsewhere, then it seems worth it. I do think this topic is on trend and will still grow some, and more information is definitely helpful. I haven't decided if I will plunge in or not, but I've been looking into making lingerie. Love your pattern, by the way.ReplyDelete
I would love a book and pattern! I love 40s style bras (and things without underwires), but I'm intimidated by the fit issues. I don't really understand how to alter the fit of a bra cup, and I could even use knowledge on how vintage bras are supposed to fit in the first place! I have one, but I'm not sure it's actually correct, since the old, more pointed styles are very different from today's bra fit.ReplyDelete
I've been sewing my own lingerie for a few years. I LOVE Dita Von Teese's line of lingerie and would love to see you create patterns with her aesthetic!! I like that her stuff is retro but lots of it is very wearable. Cute garters, saucy bras and undies. The particular one you post here I see as 3 patterns that would be easy to sew up for me. I'd love to see more patterns with vintage appeal but functional for everyday wear and some that are nice for special occasions. Maybe a touch of corsetry that's not a full on corset? I'd prefer to see contemporary shaping on the bra cups. Something a little more advanced then say a soft cup bra with little detail would be great. Lingerie sewing is becoming a hot topic in the sewing world at the moment and it would be so nice to see it flooded with beginner patterns. Give us something beautiful and a retro, I know you will! If you plan to use this as a spring board for actually teaching lingerie sewing, I would imagine lots of folks new to it would enjoy anything you put out be it beginner or for the more advanced. I am excited to see where this is going.ReplyDelete
I mean it would be so nice to NOT see it flooded with beginner patterns.Delete
Yes to all of this. Maybe a pattern for a Dior-inspired "Waspie" could be a nice introduction to corset-making for those of us not ready for a full-on corset.
It would be nice to see a book on this subject, with the same attention to detail that your first two books have, and with a variety of patterns that go beyond bralettes and tap pants.
I look forward to seeing how this idea evolves...
I love sewing lingerie and would love to be able to do more than just the basics but the patterns and notions just don't seem to be readily available :( I buy almost every book or pattern on the subject I can find and would welcome something that covers construction and patterns more in depth.ReplyDelete
I would love to be able to make my own bras, bodies and corsets. I am a rather well endowed lady and being able to make something that fits perfectly and gives me the shape I want for different styles of clothes would be practically invaluable!ReplyDelete
I don't think I would be game to sew my own bras and complex lingerie but I do like the idea of making my own slips and panties. The problem I have is finding suitable fabrics. If I am going to sew my own slips etc I want to make them in luxurious fabrics and laces :)ReplyDelete
I love your aesthetic, I'm sure I would love a (singular, for the moment) lingerie pattern if you came out with it (something like the ones in the first pic?). I haven't tried making lingerie before because of all of the factors you mentioned (fit, sourcing supplies, lots of fiddly details when I usually want a quick make). But so many sewing bloggers are posting about their bra makes lately that it's making me think I could probably do it, too.
Oh my would I!! I've taken the craftsy bra making class and got the kit but I so want to just make all my undergarments. The right fabric and elastic is somewhat confusing. If I'm making plain cotton underwear am I using a four way knit? If I'm making something in a shape wear is power net the right thing to use and what do I pair it with or is the whole garment made from that? See...so many questions and that's just the tip of my iceberg.ReplyDelete
Thanks Gertie! I'm interested in sewing my own bras and a corset, but I've been blocked by this feeling that the supplies would be overwhelmingly expensive, or something like that. That's silly, since I tracked down some tools and it was hardly more expensive than sewing, but I still have a mental block. I'm also worried about screwing it up; I feel like there's much less of a fudge factor with a bra.ReplyDelete
I'd buy a book on it! I've always wanted to sew my own undies and bras and such, but am intimidated by lack of knowledge and how to find the best supplies. I made corset once and would like to make more. I'd be more likely to buy a book than a series of patterns.ReplyDelete
Hey Gertie,
It's something I've always thought about and sewing swimwear a my clothing construction course was one of my favorite things I did, but I think there is no biggest hurdle as opposed to a collection of smaller ones. Patterns are had to come by short of cutting up your best fitting bra, notions are easy enough to find online but price can be an issue, proper cute elastic is rare but mostly it's the machinery, a lot of pro made lingerie requires gnarly machinery to get that finished look.
Regardless, I'd still love a book on how to do it as pro as possible using regular domestic machines, There are some cute, satin woven ideas out there that need to happen!
I've sewn my own bras before, what turned me off was not finding a good pattern for multi-Ds, and feeling like I was wasting time/materials - my first 2 bras were never right, but the 3rd one always was. Also, I wasn't able to find the kind of supplies I was looking for (again, DDD needs actual support, thin stretch fabric just doesn't cut it!). In theory, I'd LOVE to sew lingere, but supplies (patterns, fabric, notions).ReplyDelete
Yes! Please! I'm a 34F and my options for beautiful lingerie (to buy or make) are limited. I would love patterns for structured, supportive, yet beautiful garments. I would love a book or individual patterns, but would certainly purchase a book.ReplyDelete
Sewing lingerie seems to be on trend right now! I've started taking baby steps into it but nothing complicated! A book would be amazing I don't think there is enough books or patterns out there! So there is a market worth tapping into.ReplyDelete
I would deeply appreciate a book on vintage styled lingerie sewing! I hate shopping for my undergarments! It is so awkward, besides the fact that I can never find bras that fit me correctly due to my medium sized bust and "small" band size.
I have considered sewing my lingerie and I know that I will someday, but at this point it is SO overwhelming that I chicken out before I even start. With all the notions, fabrics, and patterns out there, I am scared out of my wits to begin. It is rather hard for me to want to sew lingerie that very likely would not turn out, due to my ignorance. If I had a book similar to your other sewing books that included a comprehensive glossary discussing all the different components of lingerie sewing, and some lovely patterns I would be so extremely grateful!
I just started sewing bras, with the help of Craftsy class by Beverly Johnson, of Bra Maker's Supply. I would love to know and do more but the availability of supplies and patterns on my size have deterred me a bit. A book about making retro lingerie would be amazing!ReplyDelete
Gertie, you are a great teacher and are clear in both written word and video. I would love to see a book with CD about bra-making - maybe not JUST vintage? - by you! They are few and far between so far, but I can see that it is already a trend happening in the many blogs I read.ReplyDelete
I am interested in sewing the kind of vintage lingerie that makes me feel glamourous but is not too difficult. I remember someone on We Sew Retro did a stunning brunch coat last Christmas that was very popular. That is the kind of pattern I want. If you did an everyday glamour book of lingerie, I would have that on preorder as soon as possible.ReplyDelete
I would love a book on sewing lingerie. I love the idea of sewing my own bras but haven't tried it yet.ReplyDelete
Yes Yes Yes. I sew my own bras for the best fit. The gorgeous lingerie lines don't come in my size as I am a little more buxom than their sizing :-) I would definitely sew my own vintage inspired lingerie. Very excited that you are heading in this direction.ReplyDelete
I'd be very interested, but very few commercial lingerie/bra patterns come in my uber-busty size (I'm a G-cup), and while I can FBA most regular garments, the idea of trying to do that large of an FBA on a lingerie pattern is really intimidating. If you made it in my size, I'd buy it.ReplyDelete
Yes, yes, yes! I'm "curvier" than I was when young, and a lot of the lingerie available doesn't suit me at all. I bought your slip pattern so that I could make a slip that skims those curves, instead of clinging to them (I'm looking at you, Jockey). Commercial undies are too long in the rise (I'm 4'11"), and my 36F bras cost $56/each in the shop that is 21/2 hours away from my home. I'd certainly buy another of your books.ReplyDelete
Yes. Please. Want more lingerie patterns and books! Love your sewing books!ReplyDelete
nope too cheap and easy to buy itReplyDelete
I would definitely like to learn more. I do believe its difficult to find some good information and food patterns. I recently purchased your pattern from butterick (can't wait to make it) and it would be awesome to see a book from you. I hope you go for it.ReplyDelete
Yes! I also wish you'd bring out your kits for your slip pattern again (I really want to make one!), as I'm not sure about finding the correct notions and fabric and how to go about it. That's the scariest part for me, I think. I'm not sure I'd want to make my own bras (not yet, anyway), but who knows where I"ll be later on? I'd definitely give a book a read if you made one.ReplyDelete
Yes please! Maybe even individual patterns rather than a book? And with kits in your shop. Anyway the time is definitely right for lingerie sewing. A retro approach which isn't just two cloth triangles sewn to some binding would be refreshing :)ReplyDelete
I love the idea of it, and I did buy your pattern, intending to make a slip, although it hasn't happened yet. I think the problem is the cost and lack of availability of supplies - I don't mind buying some stuff on Internet, but fabric needs to be touched, and colours checked, especially matching fabric to lace and ribbons etc. So, that's probably a no from me, although it sounds like you have lots of 'yeses' .
Maybe it's because these days I don't have a man in my life to appreciate the results (nor a body like Dita, sadly!) that's not to say I don't wear nice underwear for myself, cos I do, but I don't think I'd be willing to put all that effort in! I WILL make the petticoat one day though x
I think a lingerie book is needed in the marketplace but to confine it to retro would not work for me. I've worn those garments. No, thank you.ReplyDelete
A book would be lovely but in that case please take us large-breasted ladies into account too. (I mean like double-Gs like in my case, and even bigger.) We cannot often wear the same bras that women with smaller breasts do, because the patterns just don't work after a certain amount of mass. :PReplyDelete
I would definitely be interested, especially in a detailed section on bra-fitting, but only if the sizing options are widely varied. I know I was surprised when I figured out my real bra size (how could they be THAT big?), and it's a challenge to find bras that fit! Maybe incorporating drafting instructions vs specific patterns?ReplyDelete
I too have become obsessed with lingerie sewing (more exact authentic foundation pieces).... To be honest what has held me back most is sizing and not understanding the information presented in the texts currently available(Oh and lack of a serger, come on santa baby lol). I have to grade every pattern I sew as it is and coupled with something that's already so scary discourages me. I'm a curvy plus size girl (sz 18 us) and foundation under my vintage outfits is so IMPORTANT, I would love to know more about constructing my own.
Are you taking any sew along request from casual wear yet??? I need help!! P.S You're so awesome!
I'm actually in the process of sewing my own bras but I am one of the unfortunate ones where RTW bras do not work for me. I have a 20" difference between my bust and underbust measurements so RTW lingerie companies do not make a cup size that large. Been working on my bra pattern for four years now. It's almost perfect (jumping for joy!!!!!). But when this journey is finished, I have already decided to start making my own vintage styled shapewear and undergarments. I would love to read about the different structural techniques used, about the various materials and what designers did to help women achieve the ideal figure of the era. I have acquired three books on bra making and subscribed to several online forums about corsetry but nothing really centers around vintage undergarments.ReplyDelete
Lingerie is becoming a hot trend in the sewing world - especially as more folks are being inspired by the classy looks of old (thank you Downton Abbey and Mad Men!) and finding that today's undergarments just don't cut it. If you want to go full-on retro, the right undergarments are so crucial! I've made corsets for years and I made my own longline for my wedding because nothing I could afford at the time gave me the silhouette I wanted. (Just don't wait until the week before while still building your dress...I had to call my mom to the rescue.) I think a book on retro lingerie would be wonderful and the retro-loving community is large enough, I think it would do very, very well. Definitely cover bras, longlines, girdles and garter belts - they are the big four. ;) Under longlines, one thing that a lot of folks seem to skip is how to properly fit the cup area so that the bra will actually sit against your body and not want to stand away from it at the CF (something I've noticed modern-style RTW longlines often do) - would definitely love to see more tips on this.ReplyDelete
I would love a book on lingerie sewing. As others have mentioned, lingerie sewing seems to be getting very popular now but I think there is still a lack of resources such as books, sewalongs or accessible patterns for complete beginners. I am just trying my first bra at the moment (Marlborough Bra by Orange lingerie) and things are going pretty well so far but I had to look at a ton of different sites to get a good understanding of the fabrics and techniques. Having a book with all that information in one place would be amazing. I found it a bit overwhelming at first, even though I have a lot of clothes sewing experience under my belt. Lots of new fabrics to try and understand, many you can only buy on the internet from websites which look like they were built in 1995! I find Clothing Engineer and Cloth Habit websites are very good for information about bra sewing. I would also like more patterns which are not full coverage cups, lots of the patterns out there have this type of design which I personally don't like. I much prefer demi style cups. Please bring out an in depth bra/lingerie making book - I would buy it in a second : )ReplyDelete
Too "niche"? Vintage patterns and clothing are pretty niche-oriented, and you seem to have an audience/book-buyership! You'd reach a wider audience, of course, if you didn't write exclusively about vintage shapewear (and the title made that plain). I think I'd be interested. A well-fitting bra would be worth the work . . . and cheap lingerie (even if Bali DOES make a bra that actually fits me quite well!) is cheap mostly because it's made by people in third-world countries for low wages. * sigh *
Um, does anybody else think most of those models need an FBA to their bra cups?
Lingerie sewing does seems to be 'hyped' right now, but I'm still in search of a good vintage pattern. And perhaps a decent manual, that's why I would care more for a book than a pattern. For me buying merely a pattern just seems a bit too scary. A good book gives so much more information, when you're feeling a little insecure about certain techniques. And you have different patterns to try, mix and match. You can put me on the YES-list!ReplyDelete
I have the lingerie-making bug! Just simple things at the mo, but you know what they say about practice! Currently loving the book Secrets Of Sewing Lingerie by Katherine Sheers and Laura Stanford- lots of projects for all levels! Would love to see you do one too :) T xoxReplyDelete
I would buy a book, an online course, patterns and whatnot to sew my own retro lingerie!!!
I've always wanted to do so but the lack of tutorials and patterns (+ instructions) held me back. I'm still, after 11 years of sewing, kind of afraid of all these tiny pieces you need and to get the right fit.
Also: boning in corseletts or waist cinchers? I would die for a psttern of the latter!!
I'd be very interested in buying a book on sewing bras and lingerie. If you could see my wish lists on various book sites at the moment you'd see they're stuffed with books on the subject (alas, they are usually out of print or incredibly expensive text books).ReplyDelete
Gertie, how about this for your next book "Gertie sews vintage lingerie", you would have us lined up around the block (so to speak) for this!! You go girl, I know you can do it!!!ReplyDelete
Omg! I have always been into sewing my own vintage clothing and recently have become obsessed with sewing my own vintage lingerie. I think that it's a logical progression since vintage lingerie creates the perfect structure for vintage clothing. Your next book should totally be: Gertie Sews Vintage Lingerie!!!!ReplyDelete
If I could sew I would sew them. It's so hard to find a decent practical bra especially in the smaller sizes and they are so expensive. I think lingere shops all assume that skinny people want fake push-up boobs and I'm not like that...ReplyDelete
If you would write a book about it, I would buy it and try it! I've been wanting to try it out for a while, but it scares me a little...ReplyDelete
I'm actually very interested in sewing vintage slips. Nice good quality slips made with silk :)ReplyDelete
very very interested have bought some patterns already but to have a good resource book with good fitting instructions and resources would be great, not used the patterns yet as been working through a few of your other patterns in your other books. So, yes please bring out a book I'm sure there would be many who would be interested.ReplyDelete
Yes!!! Kits, book, absolutely. Gorgeous photos too!! So much prettier than the everyday stuff that's out there for mostReplyDelete
I have both your books Gertie and I would buy a retro lingerie one just as quickly. I have made a few underbust corsets (with spiral and spring steel, busk, coutil) and would love a book on corsets (over and under busts), LONG LINE BRAS (not shouting just enthusiastic!), a proper bra slip (with built in bra with cups with slip to above knee, all in one bodysuit with built in bra with cups, girdles (like RAGO) and all other manner of retro lingerie. I'm making a custom dress form in 3 weeks and plan to draft a long line bra and eventually make a boned girdle so a book, course or sewalong would be awesome!
I think the general feeling here is YES! However I want to be very specific as I am a vintage wearer and have specific needs. I need a bra which is strapless, ideally a longline one, adaptable for a narrow ribcage and larger cups. Without darts and without wires. I would also dearly love a good girdle pattern. Another very much needed item is a good underpants pattern which is high in the waist and low in the leg, full coverage in other words. Apart from the pants I would be very concerned about making stuff with mesh and stretchy fabrics as I feel they would be hard to get enough support from them - I would want SUPPORT and I would even require some boning in the cups and for shaping around the waist. Cathedral boning in WKD's designs are ideal. I told you I was going to be specific!ReplyDelete
I would love to see a vintage lingerie book. I took a workshop and made a corset, but I still don't feel confident trying my hand at a bra (though I would love to learn!). The main things that have held me back are: 1. difficulty finding appropriate fabric and notions; 2. difficulty finding patterns and clear information about construction. Like many others here, I have a very small ribcage and larger cups, so I often settle for "good enough" fitting bras. I'd love to have a beautiful vintage-style bra to match my clothes instead of a really expensive, ugly, boring beige one. Beyond bras, I'd like to know how to make girdles, garter belts, and maybe some pretty sleepwear.ReplyDelete
Also, Gertie, I've wanted to let you know that I credit your first book with my transformation from "beginning" to "intermediate" seamstress. The hand finishing skills in that book are the same ones my grandma uses, but I could never get her to teach me...now she is always impressed when she turns my work inside out! It's difficult to find sewing books that teach anything beyond very basic techniques, so thank you for creating a book that goes one step further.Delete
I definitely have an interest in learning to make lingerie (I'm sure my husband would love it if I did!) So far, the main things holding me back are sourcing supplies, being concerned with how a seamed cup will look under my many knit tops (I always buy the smooth cups in RTW bras), and just getting sidetracked by other projects that I needed more immediately. Though I have to be honest and say that another huge factor holding me back at the moment is that I'm pregnant, and I honestly don't want to invest the time in attempting to fit any undergarment patterns when I have no idea what size I'll end up when this is all over!ReplyDelete
A book would be great. I've looked for books on how to sew your own bras and the options are very limited.ReplyDelete
Have you tried barkerssupply.com? Not only do they sell patterns, fabric and kits, they also sell bra-making manuals. Beverly teaches bra-making classes all over the world and has developed a manual that you can get in print or as a CD. I think she's been doing classes on Craftsy, too.Delete
Retro lingerie belongs in the retro/past unless it can be made more comfortable that it was the first time around. Women are so much bigger now and unless it can address the very large plus sizes it sounds like it may only cater to the smallest of women. It will need a lot of information on support, heavy duty support in some cases and not just focus on the pretty little touches.ReplyDelete
I am interested in a lingerie book. My biggest hang ups with sewing lingerie are the cost of classes ($80 or more) and sometimes the lingerie in books isn't something I want to wear. I saw one book with some retro lingerie that was certainly period accurate but looked a but complex and possibly uncomfortable. Another book was more focused on making lingerie from already existing materials, like take an old tablecloth and turn it into a bra! I was hoping for more camisoles, slips, different kinds of panties, a teddy or two, a corset, garter belts, babydolls, even pajamas. Some different style bras could be nice, too. Those photos you posted are things I would definitely make!
I have been working intermittently on a slip for myself from my grandmother's pattern stash. It's an early 1950s design with unlined/unwired cups and a gored skirt. I'm using a silky knit leftover from her stash, so my version is several inches shorter by necessity but the simple design offers lots of places for lace and it's got a cool diamond shaped piece between the cups.
Sometimes I also have trouble finding specialized lingerie items in stores, like lingerie elastic and stretch lace, but Etsy has so many great sewing supplies in their shops and in so many colors, I just search there now to get what I need because I can usually find it. I got the lace for my Gertie pattern there!
I say, go for it. A lingerie book with pretty, diverse, retro lingerie is needed. At least by me!
Yes! I would definitely be interested in it. A whole book would be awesome, but individual patterns with thorough instructions would also be great. I've done a bit of lingerie sewing so far (just undies and bras). What's mostly holding me back from sewing more is a lack of good and interesting patterns to work from.ReplyDelete
Yes please! I would buy that book in an instant! I would love to see in-depth instructions on making bullet bras and underwire bras!ReplyDelete
I would sew a slip. I'm most interested in dressing gowns and long nightgowns though, especially if they're available in plus sizes.ReplyDelete
I have been sewing lingerie for a couple of years. I have taken classes to make my own bras and loved them. I just finished taking Burda patterns drafting 8 lingerie patterns. I learned how to make my own bra block and pattern to my size. I found the course lacking in demonstration, straight forward learning materials, and being able to follow the videos precisely. I would love to see a book written for it. I would love to design my own bras and panties. I would love to try a corset. I also have problems finding lingerie type fabrics and findings in my local fabric stores. I have bought from online sources. I say go for it! If you have classes on this I would be the first to sign up. Also, if you need someone to test the products I would love too.ReplyDelete
I'm intrigued by the notion of making my own lingerie and have the Craftsy bra class on my wish list. My primary focus would be pretty and comfortable. And since I live in a region that is hot and humid more than 6 months out of the year, suitable fabric and trims for staying cool would be nice. Oh, one more thing! Is it possible to address how the body changes over time? Now that I'm over 40(6), my lingerie sizes are different than they were in even in my late 30s. It's not just size, but support needs that change. Curse you gravity and Father Time! For the new mommy who posted earlier, congrats, enjoy your baby and remember the changes won't end there.
It seems to me that the subject of lingerie is very diverse; enough to warrant at least 2 separate books - one on foundation garments and another for nighties, PJs, robes, bed jackets, etc. While I do have some vintage foundation garment patterns in my collection, at least a quarter of my entire vintage collection is occupied by 1930s lounging PJs, 1940s nighties, and 1950s hostess PJs & kimono robes. The "at-home-wear" patterns are some of my favorites, and I have fabric/notions for 1 each of the 5 aforementioned items. (Yes, all 5, including the 1950s hostess PJs. That pattern is Asian influenced with a full-skirted button down dress - long or just below the knee. The daring hostess can leave the skirt unbuttoned so she can show off her ankle-length cigarette pants or capris. If memory serves I got my dark green/metallic gold silk sari fabric from a seller in Thailand along with gold silk dupioni for the pants. My joy would be overwhelming if someone could tell me where to find kitten-heeled "I Dream of Jeanie" slippers like those shown on the pattern model.)
I would love it, especially if it included wearable shapewear.ReplyDelete
I have two girls with a spandex allergy so I make their clothes and undergarments. As they are growing older I am needing to learn bra making (heading into a craftsy online course-thank you craftsy for responding to my request for spandex free bras!!!) I would love to be able to teach them how to make lingerie when they get older since they will need to make it themselves if they want to have some to wear.ReplyDelete
There are lots of comments about corset-making and I have to say that there are a lot of really good books out there already for this. Not to say that you couldn't make another great book, but corset-making can take up an entire volume on its own. I recommend to most people The Basics of Corset Building: A Handbook for Beginners by Linda Sparks. There is a Canadian company called Farthingales which sells the book, as well as corset-making supplies, patterns, and even does classes.ReplyDelete
I know I am a bit late here, but I would love to sew some lingerie for me, but I would want a really reliable pattern and instructions. I have never done it before, but would be interested for sure. Especially garters, bras, panties, and anything else. I have decided to be more vintage for my curves. :)ReplyDelete
Yes. PLEASE do a vintage lingerie book! I would buy it and buy it for all my friends. LOL! It's an awesome area.ReplyDelete
I love the idea of a whole book devoted to lingerie! The construction of lingerie (even modern day stuff) is so fascinating! I would much rather have an entire book on the subject than just a pattern.. Lingerie is so fussy! A whole book would be encouraging and informative on this somewhat daunting topic.ReplyDelete
I adore the lingerie made by Kiss Me Deadly and others but most do not stock my bra size so I'd be very interested in a book. What's put me off so far is not being able to find a pattern in my size and lack of confidence in fitting. I have lots of the how to sew your own lingerie books that are already out there but find that they focus mostly on camisoles, slips and the easier to construct garments. I'd love to see something with instructions for bras, suspenders, girdles etc. Please, please write one :)ReplyDelete
I like the idea, but if you are not going to include larger cup sizes then what's the point? The average cup size is C, not B, so patterns that go up to at least a DD are what's really needed. Trying to find well fitting lingerie, bras/bustiers for D cups and above that isnt made of foam cups is nearly, if not, impossible. The selection in larger cup sizes is so insignificant that oftentimes we are forced to buy something that doesn't flatter or fit the way it should because that's all that's offered.
Full bust adjustments on multi pieced bust patterns are NOT fun. For example, I was so excited when you came out with Butterick 6019, because I wanted a bodice with that type of close fit at the bust. I was really dissapointed when i found the cups and full bust to be too small and no straightforward/calculated way of increasing the bust or knowing how to grade those pattern pieces. I'm not picking on you, feedback is important as I and many other women have these issues.
Since larger cupped women are the ones who NEED patterns for supportive and close fitting lingerie, its not an issue of "wouldn't it be nice" but more of a "Stop ignoring our needs, our dollars should matter as much as anyone elses." Be truly inclusive and realize that women who cant find RTW items like these would happily be your bra pattern customers! I say this as someone who has bought both your books (love them both!) and 4 of your butterick patterns and would like to continue to support your efforts with my dollars if you will address our needs.
Definitely put off making by the lack of information on how to select things like the correct size underwires for a bra... and getting the right colour bits like elastic to go with pretty bra type fabrics..
If these things were a bit more simple, I would be into it like a shot!
If you wrote a book like your others on vintage lingerie/foundation garments/nightgowns, I would buy the hell out of it. Seriously. I want to make some so bad, because vintage clothing looks so much better with the proper foundation garments, but there aren't many patterns, they're really expensive, they're difficult to figure out, etc, so a book like yours with basic patterns and explanations and tips would be AMAZING. Actually now I'm kind of sad it doesn't already exist.ReplyDelete
If you wrote a book on making lingerie and included patterns, I would definitely buy. But, I have the opposite problem of some of the other posters on here, I'm very flat chested. While very large busted women have trouble finding bras to fit, there are women on the other end of the spectrum. I don't have any bras that fit properly, I just make do, or buy bras with mastectomy pockets and wear the little cutlets in them. I would love to make a natural-looking padded bra that fit properly.ReplyDelete


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Metabolic syndrome constitutes a constellation of conditions, including central obesity, glucose intolerance, and dyslipidemia. These conditions enhance the risk of type 2 diabetes, cardiovascular disease, fatty liver/cirrhosis, hypertension, and cancer. The finding over 20 years ago that the inflammatory mediator TNF is overexpressed in adipose fundamentally changed our understanding of obesity and metabolic syndrome. We now know that metabolic syndrome in humans is characterized by chronic low-grade inflammation in multiple organs and we are now beginning to delineate the mechanisms by which inflammation and metabolism influence each other. Reviews in this series examine the activation of the innate and adaptive immune system in obesity; inflammation within diabetic islets, brain, liver, gut, and muscle; the role of inflammation in fibrosis and angiogenesis; the factors that contribute to the initiation of inflammation; and therapeutic approaches to modulate inflammation in the context of obesity and metabolic syndrome. We now know that an inflammatory program is activated early in adipose expansion and during chronic obesity, permanently skewing the immune system to a pro-inflammatory phenotype.
There are currently over 1.9 billion people who are obese or overweight, leading to a rise in related health complications, including insulin resistance, type 2 diabetes, cardiovascular disease, liver disease, cancer, and neurodegeneration. The finding that obesity and metabolic disorder are accompanied by chronic low-grade inflammation has fundamentally changed our view of the underlying causes and progression of obesity and metabolic syndrome. We now know that an inflammatory program is activated early in adipose expansion and during chronic obesity, permanently skewing the immune system to a proinflammatory phenotype, and we are beginning to delineate the reciprocal influence of obesity and inflammation. Reviews in this series examine the activation of the innate and adaptive immune system in obesity; inflammation within diabetic islets, brain, liver, gut, and muscle; the role of inflammation in fibrosis and angiogenesis; the factors that contribute to the initiation of inflammation; and therapeutic approaches to modulate inflammation in the context of obesity and metabolic syndrome.
Alan R. Saltiel, Jerrold M. Olefsky
The finding of islet inflammation in type 2 diabetes (T2D) and its involvement in β cell dysfunction has further highlighted the significance of inflammation in metabolic diseases. The number of intra-islet macrophages is increased in T2D, and these cells are the main source of proinflammatory cytokines within islets. Multiple human studies of T2D have shown that targeting islet inflammation has the potential to be an effective therapeutic strategy. In this Review we provide an overview of the cellular and molecular mechanisms by which islet inflammation develops and causes β cell dysfunction. We also emphasize the regulation and roles of macrophage polarity shift within islets in the context of T2D pathology and β cell health, which may have broad translational implications for therapeutics aimed at improving islet function.
Kosei Eguchi, Ryozo Nagai
Over the last years, hypothalamic inflammation has been linked to the development and progression of obesity and its sequelae. There is accumulating evidence that this inflammation not only impairs energy balance but also contributes to obesity-associated insulin resistance. Elevated activation of key inflammatory mediators such as JNK and IκB kinase (IKK) occurs rapidly upon consumption of a high-fat diet, even prior to significant weight gain. This activation of hypothalamic inflammatory pathways results in the uncoupling of caloric intake and energy expenditure, fostering overeating and further weight gain. In addition, these inflammatory processes contribute to obesity-associated insulin resistance and deterioration of glucose metabolism via altered neurocircuit functions. An understanding of the contributions of different neuronal and non-neuronal cell types to hypothalamic inflammatory processes, and delineation of the differences and similarities between acute and chronic activation of these inflammatory pathways, will be critical for the development of novel therapeutic strategies for the treatment of obesity and metabolic syndrome.
Alexander Jais, Jens C. Brüning
Obesity and diabetes are associated with increased chronic low-grade inflammation and elevated plasma glucose levels. Although inflammation in the fat and liver are established features of obesity-associated insulin resistance, the intestine is emerging as a new site for immunologic changes that affect whole-body metabolism. Specifically, microbial and dietary factors incurred by diet-induced obesity influence underlying innate and adaptive responses of the intestinal immune system. These responses affect the maintenance of the intestinal barrier, systemic inflammation, and glucose metabolism. In this Review we propose that an understanding of the changes to the intestinal immune system, and how these changes influence systemic immunity and glucose metabolism in a whole-body integrative and a neuronal-dependent network, will unveil novel intestinal pathologic and therapeutic targets for diabetes and obesity.
Daniel A. Winer, Shawn Winer, Helen J. Dranse, Tony K.T. Lam
Obesity is associated with chronic inflammation, which contributes to insulin resistance and type 2 diabetes mellitus. Under normal conditions, skeletal muscle is responsible for the majority of insulin-stimulated whole-body glucose disposal; thus, dysregulation of skeletal muscle metabolism can strongly influence whole-body glucose homeostasis and insulin sensitivity. Increasing evidence suggests that inflammation occurs in skeletal muscle in obesity and is mainly manifested by increased immune cell infiltration and proinflammatory activation in intermyocellular and perimuscular adipose tissue. By secreting proinflammatory molecules, immune cells may induce myocyte inflammation, adversely regulate myocyte metabolism, and contribute to insulin resistance via paracrine effects. Increased influx of fatty acids and inflammatory molecules from other tissues, particularly visceral adipose tissue, can also induce muscle inflammation and negatively regulate myocyte metabolism, leading to insulin resistance.
Huaizhu Wu, Christie M. Ballantyne
Chronic inflammation in adipose tissue, possibly related to adipose cell hypertrophy, hypoxia, and/or intestinal leakage of bacteria and their metabolic products, likely plays a critical role in the development of obesity-associated insulin resistance (IR). Cells of both the innate and adaptive immune system residing in adipose tissues, as well as in the intestine, participate in this process. Thus, M1 macrophages, IFN-γ–secreting Th1 cells, CD8+ T cells, and B cells promote IR, in part through secretion of proinflammatory cytokines. Conversely, eosinophils, Th2 T cells, type 2 innate lymphoid cells, and possibly Foxp3+ Tregs protect against IR through local control of inflammation.
Tracey McLaughlin, Shelley E. Ackerman, Lei Shen, Edgar Engleman
Chronic liver inflammation leads to fibrosis and cirrhosis, which is the 12th leading cause of death in the United States. Hepatocyte steatosis is a component of metabolic syndrome and insulin resistance. Hepatic steatosis may be benign or progress to hepatocyte injury and the initiation of inflammation, which activates immune cells. While Kupffer cells are the resident macrophage in the liver, inflammatory cells such as infiltrating macrophages, T lymphocytes, neutrophils, and DCs all contribute to liver inflammation. The inflammatory cells activate hepatic stellate cells, which are the major source of myofibroblasts in the liver. Here we review the initiation of inflammation in the liver, the liver inflammatory cells, and their crosstalk with myofibroblasts.
Yukinori Koyama, David A. Brenner
An understanding of the events that initiate metabolic inflammation (metainflammation) can support the identification of targets for preventing metabolic disease and its negative effects on health. There is ample evidence demonstrating that the initiating events in obesity-induced inflammation start early in childhood. This has significant implications on our understanding of how early life events in childhood influence adult disease. In this Review we frame the initiating events of metainflammation in the context of child development and discuss what this reveals about the mechanisms by which this unique form of chronic inflammation is initiated and sustained into adulthood.
Kanakadurga Singer, Carey N. Lumeng
There are three dominant contributors to the pathogenesis of dysfunctional adipose tissue (AT) in obesity: unresolved inflammation, inappropriate extracellular matrix (ECM) remodeling and insufficient angiogenic potential. The interactions of these processes during AT expansion reflect both a linear progression as well as feed-forward mechanisms. For example, both inflammation and inadequate angiogenic remodeling can drive fibrosis, which can in turn promote migration of immune cells into adipose depots and impede further angiogenesis. Therefore, the relationship between the members of this triad is complex but important for our understanding of the pathogenesis of obesity. Here we untangle some of these intricacies to highlight the contributions of inflammation, angiogenesis, and the ECM to both "healthy" and "unhealthy" AT expansion.
Clair Crewe, Yu Aaron An, Philipp E. Scherer
Obesity-related sub-acute chronic inflammation has been associated with incident type 2 diabetes and atherosclerotic cardiovascular disease. Inflammation is increasingly considered to be a pathologic mediator of these commonly co-occurring diseases. A growing number of preclinical and clinical studies support the inflammatory hypothesis, but clinical trials to confirm the therapeutic potential to target inflammation to treat or prevent cardiometabolic conditions are still ongoing. There are multiple inflammatory signaling pathways. Regulation is complex, with substantial crosstalk across these multiple pathways. The activity of select pathways may be differentially regulated in different tissues. Pharmacologic approaches to diabetes management may have direct or indirect antiinflammatory effects, the latter potentially attributable to an improved metabolic state. Conversely, some antiinflammatory approaches may affect glucose metabolism and cardiovascular health. To date, clinical trials suggest that targeting one portion of the inflammatory cascade may differentially affect dysglycemia and atherothrombosis. Understanding the underlying biological processes may contribute to the development of safe and effective therapies, although a single approach may not be sufficient for optimal management of both metabolic and athrothrombotic disease states.
Allison B. Goldfine, Steven E. Shoelson


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History of Santa Lucia
In Sweden, December 13 is Luciadagen, or St. Lucia's Day, or in English, St. Lucy. It is the beginning of their holiday season. The Lutheran Danes and Norwegans also celebrate this day. St. Lucia was a young woman who lived in first century Rome. She was a Christian who would not give up her faith to marry an unbeliever. She was tortured and killed by order of the Roman magistrate Paschasius, who ordered her to burn a sacrifice to the Emperor Diocletian's image. As the ultimate torture, her eyes were gauged out but she was miraculously still able to see and pictures of her depict her holding her eyes on a golden plate, as she remains the patron saint for the blind. Dante consequently mentions Lucia in the second Canto of his Divine Inferno.
Stories of her courage were brought to Sweden by missionaries where she became known as the Lucia Bride. Old people said the Lucia Bride would go out early in the morning to bring food and drink to the poor. She wore white robes and a crown of light. Lucy, like the Latin "lux" means light.
The story is acted out in Swedish homes with the oldest daughter playing the Lucia Bride. Early in the morning on December 13, she brings her parents a tray of sweet saffron buns and some coffee. She wears a white gown and a crown of greens, often made of holly. Her sisters and brothers dress in white and follow her. The girls carry lit candles and the boys wear tall, pointed caps and are called "star boys."
St. Lucia is also honored in Sicily, where she was born and known as Santa Lucia. Christians there gather to celebrate her day with bonfires and torchlight parades.
Bill Petro, your friendly neighborhood historian


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Industry veteran Don Trask dies at 75
By Rich Miller
Updated Fri March 22, 2013
Sad news out of Texas: Don Trask, former vice president of operations for Online Alarm Quotes, died last week in Dallas at age 75.
"Don was one of the very first employees of Monitronics and helped build their central station," Tom Fowler, president of Online Alarm Quotes, told SSN. "A very good soul. He was one of the nicest people I ever encountered in any walk of life. Please make mention of his passing and keep his family in your prayers."
Trask was the executive vice president and CEO of Trask Enterprises, doing business as New West Security in Duncanville, Texas. Before his employment at Online Alarm Quotes and Monitronics, he worked for Southland Corp., the Arthur Trask Corp. and 3M Corp., according to his profile on LinkedIn.
Trask was born and raised in the Chicago area and attended the Kellogg School of Management at Northwestern University. He is survived by his wife, Elizabeth Sheri Trask; daughters Nancy and Elizabeth; stepson Corey, and his grandchildren.
"Don was the kind of friend that renewed faith in people," Fowler said. "He was there for you without asking and without question."


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Smashwords, a self-publishing platform and indie e-book distributor, has launched a series of new features to aid authors and publishers in distribution and marketing of e-books. Over the last two months Smashwords has launched e-book preordering, an author "self-interview" service and a distribution deal with Flipkart, India's biggest online e-book retailer.
In July, Smashword debuted preorders for e-book releases through Barnes & Noble, Kobo and Apple's iBookstore. The new service allows e-book authors and publishers to offer advance orders of their books to consumers much the way print publishers do. Forthcoming e-book releases can be posted to retailers (alongside the author's backlist titles) four to six weeks in advance of pub date. The practice allows e-books to accumulate orders that credit automatically on the e-books pub date. The feature also makes an author's e-books available at all retailers at the same time, a Smashwords spokesperson said, enhances the chances of an e-book making bestseller lists, and provides sales support to the backlist.
In late August, the company started Smashwords Interviews, a service that allows self-published or conventionally published authors to self-interview themselves. Overwhelmed by the manpower needed to interview all of its authors (the site has about 70,000 authors), Smashwords launched the self-service interview feature to get more author interviews on the site. Authors simply sign in to their account and follow the instructions on how to create the interview, which includes links to the author's books and links to the author's Smashwords page.
And in a move that increases the global distribution of Smashwords titles, the company announced a deal to distribute its e-books to Flipkart, called the Amazon of India, the largest online bookseller in India. According to Smashwords, Flipkart.com has a million daily visitors, 10 million registered users and 17 different product categories.
In an interesting sidenote, Smashwords notes that the agency pricing model is banned in India and Smashwords has a traditional wholesale deal with Flipkart, which theoretically allows them to discount Smashwords e-books. While it's likely that Flipkart will occasionally discount (mostly to match lower prices at Indian e-book retailers), in those cases Smashwords authors will still receive 60% of the discounted price rather than 60% of the Smashwords's price.
India has about 125 million English speakers and English-language titles have great demand in the Indian book market. On the Smashwords blog, CEO Mark Coker writes that indie authors have an advantage in the Indian e-book market because of affordable pricing. "The e-book market today in India is nascent, accounting for less than one percent of the market," Coker writes, "I expect the market to grow dramatically over the next five years as the primordial soup necessary to support a thriving ebook ecosystem comes into place."


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Suddenly and inexplicably one August night in 2011, the steel door of Steven Gabriel's jail cell at the Baltimore City Detention Center was unlocked and opened, according to documents he filed in state and federal court. Someone with a "flip-out pocket knife" stabbed him multiple times, he wrote, and he bled in his cell for several hours before being rushed to the hospital.
In two civil lawsuits demanding compensation for his injuries, Gabriel, 24, has placed blame squarely on the corrections officers overseeing his unit, saying only they could have unlocked his cell. He alleged in a federal court filing in March that "BCDC has a reputation of corruption in all departments" and that officers worked to suppress inmates' complaints of mistreatment.
The allegations originated months before 13 corrections officers were indicted on federal charges and accused of working with a dozen gang-affiliated inmates and street associates to peddle drugs and launder money inside the jail.
Civil liberties advocates say Gabriel's case and others like it highlight the inadequacy of the inmate grievance process — an issue that has historically been ignored and is being de-emphasized as officials scramble to solve problems at the jail.
Grievances should be a valuable tool for uncovering corruption, attorneys and corrections experts say. Indeed, grievances filed at the jail outlined problems that were later noted in the federal indictments — leading some to wonder whether officials had missed an early opportunity to address alleged corruption. The systems can be misused by corrections officers and jail officials, smothering inmate complaints as they arise regardless of their merit, experts say.
"Depending on what the agency puts into the process, it can be good, it can be less than perfect, or it can be really, really bad," said Arnett Gaston, a retired criminology professor at the University of Maryland who served in top corrections positions over four decades in New York and Maryland.
Inmates at the Baltimore jail, who are often sent there to await trial, have raised complaints about major medical ailments, vicious attacks and examples of officers' misdeeds for years, but have received insufficient attention from officials, advocates say. Problems with the grievance process also limit inmates' ability to pursue court remedies, said David Rocah, an attorney with the American Civil Liberties Union of Maryland, who calls the process "a complete joke and fiasco."
But such systems have been narrowly drawn nationwide to prevent endless litigation from inmates and prisoners. In the mid-1990s, as federal and state legislators sought a solution, news reports highlighted lawsuits that had been filed over bad haircuts, tight underwear and broken cookies.
Rick Binetti, a spokesman for the state corrections department, said jail officials strongly disagree with the ACLU's accusations. Statistics show declining incidents of inmate emergency room visits, assaults and HIV infections in recent years — contradicting advocates' claims that the current process endangers inmates, he said.
Most Maryland correctional facilities follow grievance standards set by the American Correctional Association. The state-run jail's grievance process does not, but it will meet those standards by August, he said.
The process is "clearly communicated to all inmates in the system. The directives are in every inmate library," Binetti said. He disputed certain allegations that Gabriel has made in court filings but said he could not comment on the stabbing or the case.
A national issue
The jail's grievance process is based in part on the federal Prison Litigation Reform Act, which went into effect in 1996, and the state's comparable Prisoner Litigation Act of 1997, which require inmates to pursue administrative remedies before filing lawsuits. The system was developed to limit judicial review and discourage inmates from filing frivolous court claims.
Last year, 5,217 grievances were filed with the Baltimore jail's grievance office, which is staffed by four officers, Binetti said. That does not include complaints that are resolved by supervisory staff at the unit level, he said. The jail holds a daily average of more than 3,000 inmates and processed more than 50,000 inmates last year.
Inmates, advocates and independent corrections experts say the grievance process is too complicated for many inmates who are poorly educated or illiterate. It also is manipulated by corrections officers and used by the state's lawyers to push valid complaints out of the courts on technicalities, they said.
Margo Schlanger, who has studied grievance processes and helped draft the American Bar Association's standards for prisoner treatment, said that because grievance processes can help protect corrections systems against liability in court cases, there can be an incentive to make them overly strict and use them to "wipe out claims," which is inappropriate.
"I'm a big fan of grievance processes. I like them," said Schlanger, a professor at the University of Michigan Law School. "I think that good jail and prison administrators value them highly and learn a lot from what comes through the grievance process, and take small problems and keep them small. But you don't want it to be a pleading hurdle; you want it to be a management tool."
When the process is used as a hurdle, serious allegations can go unaddressed, inmate advocates say.
In March, state lawyers cited the federal Prison Litigation Reform Act in requesting the dismissal of inmate Calvin Hemphill's lawsuit alleging that Shavella Miles, the city jail's security chief, and other officials allowed him to be beaten. Hemphill named inmate Tavon White as a Black Guerrilla Family gang leader with outsized influence and sexual ties to corrections officers in the jail.
That case never made it to trial — it was dismissed in April — but White was among the inmates indicted that month. He has pleaded not guilty.
Miles was not named in the indictments but has been removed from her post. An attorney for Miles has said she was being used as a "token to appease the public" in the case and will contest her firing.
Rocah said the ACLU has had to step in on behalf of several inmates with severe medical conditions who went months or even years without the treatment they needed because prison officials dismissed their grievances, mostly on technical grounds.
One inmate with an amputation below the knee was repeatedly denied access to a more accessible facility, even though he fell often and filed grievances for years, Rocah said. Most of the grievances were dismissed on the grounds that he had known of the problem for more than 15 days, the time limit placed on filing claims, Rocah said. Years into the fight, a prison administrator dismissed one of the grievances, in which the inmate hadn't noted his amputation, with one line: "What disabilities?"
The inmate was finally transferred to Roxbury Correctional Institute, which is accessible for those with disabilities, after the ACLU stepped in, Rocah said.
Binetti said he could not comment on the case but added that the department complies with the Americans with Disabilities Act and that inmates with disabilities receive priority placement in newer, accessible facilities.
Elizabeth Alexander, the lead attorney litigating improvements to jail conditions under a federal consent decree that has been in effect since the 1970s, said she has heard from more inmates alleging officer misconduct than ever before and always takes her concerns directly to Maryland Attorney General Douglas F. Gansler's office. "We'd never refer anyone to [the jail's] grievance process," she said.
State corrections officials, for their part, say that mistakes have been made but the system works. They collect thousands of handwritten complaints from facility submission boxes every year, and each one is handled, Binetti said.
Still, there are problems, Binetti acknowledged, and the corrections department is addressing them.
Unlike prisoners' grievances, those filed by pretrial inmates at the Baltimore jail — while they are investigated in a similar way — cannot be appealed to a centralized grievance office, Binetti said. And unlike forms used in prisons, those at the jail have no carbon copy for inmates to keep as a record — a fact Gabriel criticizes in court documents.
Binetti said inmates are given a second chance to fill out a form if their first submission is rejected on technical grounds, but that no data exists "to demonstrate the number of incomplete or improperly completed grievances that are dismissed."
The department is bringing the jail grievance process in line with the system used in other state facilities, Binetti said, and should be finished in August. The changes will allow for better statistics on grievances at the jail, give inmates the right to appeal to the system's central grievance office and add carbon copies to jail grievance forms.
A tool in the courts
Even when savvy inmates manage to push their complaints beyond the administrative process and into the courts, the grievance process remains a hurdle, advocates say. Attorneys in Gansler's office, who represent the state in inmate complaint cases, regularly argue for dismissal on the basis that the internal grievance process was not exhausted first.
David Paulson, a Gansler spokesman, called that practice "fairly common."
Gabriel ran into that roadblock. As a result of the attack, Gabriel suffered permanent damage to his right eye and was prescribed medication for depression and anxiety, he wrote in meticulous penmanship in an April court filing from a state prison in Hagerstown, where he was serving a sentence for large-scale narcotics possession.
Medical records filed in his state case confirm that he suffered stab wounds and eye damage.
In responding to Gabriel's pending federal complaint and the earlier state claim, attorneys for the corrections department have acknowledged his injuries and agreed to pay his medical bills. But they have denied responsibility for the assault and have fought — successfully in the state case — to have the complaints dismissed, partly on the grounds that he did not exhaust the internal process.
Kelvin L. Harris, the corrections department's director of standards, compliance and litigation, filed an affidavit in the state case stating that Gabriel had filed six grievances in the past — about his housing unit and not receiving legal documents, among other issues — but none "about being the victim of several stabbings through the direction of gang affiliated correctional officers."
Gabriel said he did file such a grievance, but guards must have tampered with it. "Most officers read them before they place the grievances in the [submission] box and they don't like to participate in bringing down their own," he wrote in court records.
Binetti said inmates can personally place their forms in the submission boxes.
Gabriel is suing the jail and its officials in the federal case in U.S. District Court in Baltimore. A spokesman for Gansler's office declined to comment on the active case.
Jason E. Fetterman, an attorney with Niles, Barton & Wilmer who was appointed to represent Gabriel pro bono, declined to comment.
Recently, Gansler sent a letter to Gov. Martin O'Malley calling for an independent investigation into the "recent revelations of pervasive gang activity" at the Baltimore jail.
But he did not mention that his office has repeatedly defended jail officials against inmates' claims of corruption — including some, like Hemphill's, that mirrored allegations in the federal indictment.
Gansler, in an interview, said he did not know about the alleged Baltimore jail corruption until he "read about it in the newspaper" after the unsealing of the indictment. He declined to comment on specific cases but said not all inmate filings litigated by his office come across his desk.
Breaking News Alerts
Members of his office routinely report allegations of corruption to corrections officials, he said, and if a pattern of corruption was identified, they might alert U.S. Attorney for Maryland Rod J. Rosenstein.
As for using the Prison Litigation Reform Act to have corruption complaints dismissed, Gansler said he could not comment. "We don't have the authority to make the policy decisions," he said.
The state could face new grievances — or a class-action lawsuit — filed by inmates who say that their civil rights were abridged when jail administrators allegedly allowed the Black Guerrilla Family to obtain broad control in the Baltimore jail, said Gaston, the former University of Maryland professor.
How much jail officials knew about the gang's power within the facility — and under what parameters they allowed it to continue as federal investigators built their case — will likely become key questions in future cases, said Gaston, a clinical psychologist and prison gang expert.
"If you are knowingly putting the lives or health of other inmates in danger just to build a case," he said, "what of the individual rights of the person being affected?"


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Carleton Ravens Mens BBall Archive 08-09
This archive includes Ravens mens playoff games against the Ottawa Gee Gees and York Lions, as well as regular season games vs Ottawa, York, McMaster and Lakehead. There are also pre-season shots from an NCAA game vs Kansas (ScotiaBank Place) and vs Bishops and the Victoria Vikings. NOTE that the gallery of the Capital Hoops Classic game vs Ottawa remains in a separate gallery, and importantly, images from the CIS Championship game featuring the Ravens and UBC are also in a separate gallery (on this web site).Read More


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Knowing the Narcissist : Why Does The Narcissist Have To Make It So Difficult?
You will have silently asked yourself this question many times. You will have asked it of friends and family as you recount the latest confusing bout of behaviour from us. You may even go so far as to ask us why we make everything so difficult. Your confusion stems from several places. First of all, life really ought to be a bowl of cherries and straight forward. You have a good house, two cars on the drive, you get to go on holiday, there are no real concerns about the bills, the jobs seem safe.
You are not rich but you are in a fortunate position. Everybody in the family enjoys good health, you have two wonderful children and extended family are supportive and play a part in your life. You once got along famously, brilliantly, a complete match made in heaven which shows that it can be done and therefore that suggests, does it not, that this can be resurrected and returned to, if only he wanted to and tried to do it. Going beyond this you give everything to the relationship. You have not changed. You remain devoted, loving, working hard for the family unit both in the office and at home.
You make our meals, you suggest days out, you attend to the laundry and the housework with little assistance in return. You know that you give more of yourself to us, emotionally and in terms of dedication to the concept of our relationship and the family and truth be told you do not begrudge doing so.
You have always been a giver and you derive pleasure in seeing other people content and happy knowing that you have played a part in it. Whilst it would be lovely to receive some affection from time to time you could live without it, if you are completely honest, if only we did not make everything so difficult.
You cannot understand why we make life so hard. There is nothing to be upset or concerned about. Indeed, with your tolerance and giving nature, we have surely landed on our feet. Your friends tell you that given everything you do for us we ought to drop to our knees and worship you when you come through the door in the evening.
You laugh at such suggestions, since you are far too modest, but inside you do wish that there could be some acknowledgement, some thanks for everything you do. It does not have to be reciprocated, you are content with that role, but if only we would accept this massive advantage that we have and not spoil things, cause arguments and bring discord when there really is no need.
You could understand it if you actually did something wrong but you do not, you know you don't. From time to time you do find yourself analysing what you do and wondering if perhaps it is you that causes these sudden mood-swings, the lashing out, the sulking silences and the irritation. Once in a while you think you might have done something wrong and you apologise and make amends, not that it seems to get you anywhere.
At times you think you would be better off if you came in drunk, kicked the dog and demanded that we make you something to eat before falling asleep in front of the television. Perhaps if you came in full of thunder and gave us a slap we might respect you more, because it seems that your dedication and subservience get you none. This thought tumbles through your mind often but you know you could not behave like that, because it is not you, but it does make you wonder what you need to do to gain our respect, our interest and our love once again, like it once was.
You cannot understand why someone would choose to be so difficult and so often. We have every advantage. Why not be content with that and life a wonderful life with a delightful family and doting spouse? Surely that is far easier than causing chaos, pandemonium and upset? Not only do these storms come out of nowhere, you just cannot understand why someone would behave like that towards someone that we supposedly love and care about. It makes no sense, no sense whatsoever, but you are not going to give up. You are not a quitter. You will work out what it is and then make the appropriate changes so that life really is a bed of roses.
How often have you felt this way? Many times I should imagine. It is extraordinary and unbelievable that we almost choose a life of conflict over what could be a peaceful and enjoyable life. This makes no sense to you at all. The fact is that we do not choose to cause confusion and chaos, we have to. Admittedly, we choose the degree and extent, the Greater of our kind doling out particularly savage and heinous machinations which increase the pain and misery, but all of us, whether Lesser, Mid-Range of Greater do not choose a life of conflict with you, our intimate partner, it has to happen.
We need to create drama because we feed off the emotional output generated by you in response to that drama and this provides us with fuel. It has gone beyond the point where we could rely on your admiration, love and affection, that has become stale although we do not dismiss it out of hand.
In order to make that admiration, love and affection seem shiny and new (if only for a short while) we must create the drama, the downside and the conflict in order so there is a contrast. This contrast will allow us to reinstate our "good side", the golden period and things will seem wonderful for a period of time but then the stale sensation returns once again.
Thus the conflict must be resumed. You have no control over this. No matter how hard you try to please us, to accommodate us and to do the things that we like, this unquenchable need for fuel means that the roller coaster will not stop. There is often no logic to it, from your perspective. You may notice certain behaviours which tell you that the storm is about to be unleashed but often you will not know.
This is because what triggers the storm is the ignition of our fury which is caused by your criticism of us. Those criticisms are usually more likely to be perceived by us than actual on your behalf and this means you will always struggle to identify them. Believe me, a simple "Hello, how are you?" can trigger the storm. In our world we regard this simple and pleasant greeting as unnecessary questioning and the suggestion that there is something wrong. If there is something wrong, then that is a criticism.
This is why we seem to erupt over "nothing". It is nothing in your world but in ours there has been a criticism and this ignites our fury with the resulting shouting, nastiness, sulking and silent treatments. There is no pattern to this behaviour. Once cannot say it is three weeks good one week bad. You may have months of the reinstated golden period before another tornado tears through your life. It may be a succession of tornadoes each and every single day for a month.
It will always leave you confused and bewildered as to why we behave this way when there is so much good in our lives, so much to enjoy and look forward. As ever this is because you are looking at the world from your perspective. From ours it is vastly different. We do not choose to make life difficult, we have to.


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The tenders for three sites at Tan Quee Lan Street, Bernam Street and one-north Gateway have been awarded to the highest bidders, revealed the Urban Redevelopment Authority on Thursday.
The 11,530.8 sq m site at Tan Quee Lan Street was awarded to a consortium comprising GuocoLand, Intrepid Investments and Hong Realty at a tendered price of $800.19 million.
The 3,846.2 sq m site at Bernam Street within the Tanjong Pagar area, on the other hand, was awarded to HY Realty, which offered $440.9 million for the site.
Finally, the 5,778.7 sq m site at one-north Gateway was awarded to TID Residential after it submitted the highest bid of $155.74 million.
All three sites come with 99-year lease terms, with the tender for Tan Quee Lan Street launched on 29 March, while the tenders for the Bernam Street and one-north Gateway sites were launched on 30 May and 27 June respectively. The tenders all closed on 5 September.
Tynn Tan edited this story on behalf of Victor Kang, Digital Content Specialist at PropertyGuru. To contact him about this or other stories, email firstname.lastname@example.com


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Juergen Braehmer (39-2, 30 KOs) and Jack Culcay (14-0, 10 KOs) are looking
forward to fighting at the Sporthalle Hamburg, Germany. The two Team
Sauerland boxers will be putting their respective titles on the line on
April 27. During today´s press conference, the opponents were announced.
Braehmer will take on Tony Averlant (18-7-2, 4 KOs) for the European Light
Heavyweight Championship while Culcay wants to defend his
WBA-Intercontinental Light Middleweight Championship against Guido Nicolas
Pitto (17-1, 7 KOs) from Argentina.
"I won't be underestimating Tony Averlant. He proved his worth during the
fight with Eduard Gutknecht when he nearly snatched the title away from him
last year. I watched the bout, so I know what to expect," said the
34-year-old. Braehmer is hoping to improve in comparison to his last outing.
"I know I can do better. The fight in Berlin was the first one after a long
period outside of the ring and consequently the first time for a while that
I have gone through proper preparation. Now I will keep this professional
attitude up. The fans will be able to tell the difference come April 27."
The next step towards the top of the game is on the agenda of Jack Culcay.
According to Culcay himself, he is taking on his biggest challenge to date,
when he enters the squared circle against Guido Nicolas Pitto. "Pitto won't
be travelling over to Hamburg to lose." And the prodigy of Coach Ismael
Salas has already begun to analyse the style of his next foe. "He fights
quite dirty and the elbow always follows through. I will have to be
extremely focused. His fitness level is also very impressive. Pitto tries to
overrun his opponents. However, I won't be giving him that chance."
Both fighters stated their joy about fighting in Hamburg. "I didn't just
give my debut here but I have also fought for the WBO Title in this arena.
Hence I'm happy to return," stated Braehmer. Jack Culcay is also keen to
fight in the city of northern Germany. "When I fought my first professional
fight on December 19, 2009 it was as part of the undercard to Juergen´s
world championship bout. Now we are both fighting in main events on the same
bill. I cannot wait."
Tickets for the big fight night at the Sporthalle Hamburg, Germany on April
27 can be purchased at www.boxen.com and www.eventim.de.