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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 86-10) for measurements and calculations.
Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.
Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you'll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you'll require in the new qualities and whether you'll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Click here to see our yarn converter
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you'll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: "work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it's worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It's very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you're not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You'll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you'll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
20) How do I make a women's size garment into a men's size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women's size it's not very difficult to convert it to men's size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It's therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it's a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you'll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Carole Saidah wrote:
Bonjour, pour le bandeau, est ce que les diminutions se font sur l'endroit du travail comme pour les augmentations ? Merci pour votre réponse27.12.2022 - 19:55
DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Saidah, tout à fait, on doit diminuer le nombre de mailles envers, vu sur l''endroit, on va tricoter ainsi 2 m ens à l'envers sur l'endroit. Bon tricot!02.01.2023 - 10:33
Brenda wrote:
Any chance of doing a video tutorial on you-tube. I really like this headband, but am confused with the written pattern.01.12.2022 - 01:02
DROPS Design answered:
Dear Brenda, you will find videos relative to the techniques used in that pattern at the bottom of the pattern, feel free to ask your question here so that we can help you further in the part of the pattern you don't understand. Happy knitting!01.12.2022 - 11:46
Kathy wrote:
I am on the first increase row to 24 stitches and following the established rib pattern but there are not enough stitches to complete the rib pattern! What do I do?11.10.2021 - 01:08
DROPS Design answered:
Hi Kathy, You increase all P1 to P2 (5 stitches increased) which gives you 24 stitches. You now have 1 stitch in garter stitch, 5 x K2, P2 (20 stitches), K2 and 1 stitch in garter stitch = 24 stitches. Happy knitting!11.10.2021 - 07:04
Iris wrote:
Hallo! Ich bin ziemliche Anfängerin und komme mit der Anleitung nicht ganz zurecht. Betrifft das Fertigstellen des Stirnbands mit den Maschen auf einem Hilfsfaden. Habe leider auch kein passendes Videotutorial dazu finden können. Wie lange muß der Hilfsfaden sein? und wird er mithineingenäht? Danke im Voraus für die Hilfe!01.01.2021 - 22:03
DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Iris, die stillgelegten Maschen werden wie in diesem Video zusammen mit der Anschlagskante - wie in diesem Video zusammen genäht, dh so eine "Mischung" je nach den Maschen. Viel Spaß beim zusammennähen!04.01.2021 - 14:43
Diana Connolly wrote:
This increase is called a make 1 in English. If you'd written it like this many here wouldn't have had so many problems, make 1 is a term used when you increase by picking up the loop between stitches. Hope this helps.27.10.2020 - 21:20
Kirsty wrote:
Hi, wow many thanks for your helpful video reply. I really appreciate it. Love your site. Well wishes, Kirsty28.06.2020 - 20:24
Kirsty wrote:
Hi, Sorry to ask but how do you increase stitches please? I've done basic knit purl only, very new to knitting. Could knit shrug cardi as basic one. But when this lovely pattern talks about increasing 1 stitch to 2 etc im lost sorry. Anyone able to describe simply how to do this? Many thanks, Kirsty, Scotland24.06.2020 - 08:02
DROPS Design answered:
Dear Kirsty, you will increase in the purl-sections in rib - this video shows how to increase in purl stitches. Happy knitting!24.06.2020 - 13:49
Sherie Rodrigues wrote:
To all the knitters who commented and asked questions, and to all the staff who answered the questions, I say THANK YOU. Without your help I may not have worked the pattern out by myself, but I am so glad I did. It is simple, when the light bulb goes off. I would suggest you look at the questions and answers until it makes sense. I do so LOVE this pattern . Thanks again everyone. Regards and happy knitting.10.06.2020 - 15:30
Karren wrote:
Thank you so much for the guidance in my pattern. I am almost finished and think I will love it. Karren18.04.2020 - 01:05
Karren wrote:
I do not understand what I am supposed to do on the wrong side of the pattern in between the increase rows. The increases occur on the right side. Does the ribbing continue through out the whole pattern?17.04.2020 - 00:53
DROPS Design answered:
Dear Karren, you increase in the P-sections seen from RS (these sts are worked K from WS), when working from WS you will K over K and P over P, and the number of K stitches from WS will increase (then decrease on the 2nd half of piece) as the P stitches from WS increases. Happy knitting!17.04.2020 - 09:01
With over 30 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 299 catalogues and 11229 patterns - 11229 of which are translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!


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The rich, classic appearance of this flooring choice lends a distinguished look to any room - It demands to be noticed! Traditional, modern, or a bit of both? This charming Larrson flooring shines in any decor setting. Wanting to keep it green? Did you know that for every tree used to produce this Oak floor, 2 new ones are planted in its place? Plus, with Hardwood Bargains exacting quality control standards, you know you are getting one of the best floors on the market. With such a stunning array of attractive characteristics, whats stopping you? Bring this floor home today!
Tongue and groove is the type of joint construction on wood flooring planks that allow them to easily fit together. One side of the plank has a projection called the tongue while the other side has a groove to match. The panels are laid flat with each tongue fitting into the groove next to it. This allows the planks to interlock seamlessly across the floor. Tongue and groove flooring can be installed in either a glue down, nail down or floating method. If floating tongue and groove, a seam glue is used to adhere the tongue and groove together.
Engineered hardwood planks are essentially a sandwich consisting of a specific species of wood on top (generally 1/16" - 1/8") with a high quality plywood core or high-density fiberboard bottom (HDF). They often come in a click and lock or tongue and groove construction that can be easily floated over your subfloor as well as glued or nailed down. Engineered floors need about 2-3 days to acclimate in the room/home prior to being installed.
Both types of flooring have their pros and cons, so we always recommend speaking with one of our flooring professionals first to determine what fits your needs and style best.
Engineered can be installed both above or below grade as engineered flooring is less susceptible to moisture and expansion, versus solid wood floors which can only be installed above grade as they are one solid piece of wood and can only sustain a certain amount of moisture before expansion and movement becomes an issue. Another benefit to Engineered hardwood is they can be installed in almost any fashion. You can glue or nail both engineered and solid hardwood flooring when it comes time for installation, but you can also float engineered floor over most subfloors (as we discuss later a very DIY friendly and cost effective form of installation). This is because engineered floors often come in a click and lock or tongue and groove construction which allow for easy installation and locking.
Solid floors take more time to acclimate as well, which if time is an issue for installation, becomes an important factor. Engineered hardwood takes about 2-3 days of acclimation in your home prior to installation whereas solid is 2-3 weeks.
Floating floor installation can be done on almost any sub floor (wood, OSB, concrete, or even existing floors). The term floating refers to the fact that the planks do not need to be nailed or glued down. Floors that can be floated come in a click and lock or a tongue and groove construction. You need to purchase a wood seam glue that will resist moisture and hold the flooring together. A protective pad or underlayment is generally place underneath a floating floor to limit the transmission of sound when walking and as a protectant against moisture.
Glue-down installation process is when the floor is glued to the subfloor using a special flooring adhesive. From a do-it-yourself standpoint, this is generally considered the hardest of the installations and requires a high skill level. As with with nail down, it is best to have a professional installation crew execute this if you decide to go this route for installing your floors. There are many types of glue that can be used but it is important to get a high quality, waterproof flooring adhesive.
Nail down installation is the process of securing the floor to the subfloor with either nails, staples, or flooring cleats. This method requires significant equipment and a professional installer is generally recommended for these types of installs.
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|Rug Size: 2 x 3-5, 3 x 5, 5 x 8, 7 x 10, 9 x 12-13
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Flexible a-Si : H-based image sensors fabricated by digital lithography." In AMORPHOUS AND POLYCRYSTALLINE THIN-FILM SILICON SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY 2007, edited by V Chu, S Miyazaki, A Nathan, J Yang and HW Zan, 199-203. Vol. 989. MATERIALS RESEARCH SOCIETY SYMPOSIUM PROCEEDINGS 989. 506 KEYSTONE DRIVE, WARRENDALE, PA 15088-7563 USA: Mat Res Soc, 2007."


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Chronograph, Date, Hour, Minute, Second, Chronometer, Tachymeter. 100 meters / 330 feet. Jomashop has been in the retail and wholesale trade of luxury goods, such as watches, fine writing instruments, handbags, fashion accessories, crystal and gift items since 1987. We pride ourselves on our ability to deliver the best prices, most varied selection and finest service for well over 25 years.
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When your SubZero refrigerator needs repair service in Northampton, our appliance repair technicians in can perform all appliance repairs, whether your dryer needs a simple drum baffle repair or adjustment or if your washer needs an center main bearing replacement, we have it covered. Everything from switch replacements to washer motors or transmissions, refrigerator defrost systems, sealed systems, or a new garbage disposer installation.
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EastWest Studios is the world's premier recording facility. Located in the heart of Hollywood, the studios have given rise to some of the most celebrated music of the last fifty years.. Read More
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