text:
Use this guide to replace your MacBook's clutch cover—the curved plastic piece beneath the LCD—if it's broken or just not as shiny as you'd like it to be.
Use a coin or spudger to rotate the battery-locking screw 90 degrees clockwise.
This is a difficult project. It is imperative that you read the entire guide before you proceed. Have a system in place to keep track of the screws so you know what goes where. Budget several hours for this.
I found this to be the easiest upgrade I have ever done. New HDD and memory in ten minutes, start to finish. The hardest part was getting the #8 Torx screwdriver. Booted from the OSX disk, formatted the drive, (use the GUID scheme) and we're screaming along.
This is a great guide.
Brilliant guide from you guys. I tackled a cd drive replacement on my Dad's MacBook a little while ago, but my skills were really tested when I accidentally stood on my laptop - new LCD needed. A visit to Ebay (don't forget duties when importing!), and this LCD Display replacement guide are all I needed. Yes it took a while (2-3 hours), but as long as you remember you need to do everything backwards then it's straightforward. I wouldn't have known where to start without this guide so thanks for creating them.
The guide is fantastic and the Airport Extreme Card upgrade took me less than an hour to complete. It wasn't very difficult. Some pointers: read the entire guide before undertaking the project; keep the screws from each step separated in labeled containers; buy a spludger if you don't already have one; keep a tweezer handy for the tiny screws; and take your time separating the keyboard from the computer so as to not crack/break the plastic bezel.
This is a difficult project. It is imperative that you read the entire guide before you proceed. Have a system in place to keep track of the screws so you know what goes where. Budget several hours for this.
Nonsense! Even a non-technical person could follow this guide and do the job in 15 minutes. Anyone who's done any work on any kind of computer will be able to do this in 5-10 minutes.
Nonsense! Even a non-technical person could follow this guide and do the job in 15 minutes. Anyone who's done any work on any kind of computer will be able to do this in 5-10 minutes.
i agree, me and my friend (both) 14, took this underway to clean out the inside of my computer for recreational purposes, piece of cake!
This nontechnical person took about two hours to get the optical drive out and stripped down enough to take it apart and look for fragments of a CD. and then reassemble it. I'm sure other people are faster than me, they usually are, but newbees should set aside the time just in case. Also, jonathan55 is right about those screws, keep track of them and the other in which they come out as there are several different lengths.
Great guide. Very easy to follow. I put in a replacement hard drive in less than 30 minutes.
Extremely useful guide. Just replaced the topcase/trackpad/keyboard assembly in ~15 minutes. I've had a moderate amount of previous experience with computer repairs, but even so, anyone should be able to do this project successfully.
The replacement takes about 10 minutes from start to finish. The longest part is the OS Backup/Restore...
BTW, you might want to know before you begin: if you have a similar size backup hard drive that you originally have in your computer, you should "Restore" the contents of the original hard drive onto it before starting this manual, using the Disk Utility. (Yes it's called Restore. You restore the original to the backup. lol.)
Your other alternative is to get an external enclosure for your SATA Laptop hard drive that has a Firewire port on it.
After the swap, you connect either the backup drive or the original drive in the external enclosure using Firewire, then boot while pressing the Option key. The backup drive will show up (possibly as the only boot option.) (In fact, now that I think about it, you might not even have to press the Option key, since the external drive should be the only boot option unless there is something in your DVD drive...)
Boot to the backup drive, then "Restore" its contents to the new internal hard drive using the Disk Utility. You should be set with your original OS, settings, etc.
Overall I'd say this was easy if you've taken apart any computer-like device before. Total time was a little less than hour for me, and the most difficult part was getting all of the tiny screws back in; fan installation was a breeze.
There is a simpler way of installing the operating system than described in the notes. First do a time machine backup to a new external drive. This will force a total back-up and prevent problems of restoring everything as it was. Follow steps 1-8. Instead of quitting disk utility as described in step 9, go back into disk utility menu and on the very last line you will see the option to restore the operating system and all its files via the time machine option. It was a breeze, and I did not have to deal with steps 10-28
This is a difficult project. It is imperative that you read the entire guide before you proceed. Have a system in place to keep track of the screws so you know what goes where. Budget several hours for this.
I am so grateful for this website! This is the first time I have opened a computer and the instillation is now done, 45 minutes later.
The key, as many others have written is the organization of the screws. It was very helpful for me to print out the individual pictures of the steps to follow. I then laid the screws, as I took them out, on the printed pictures that I placed on a table.
The key is a little mindfulness...relax... and it is fun! Enjoy!
This is a terrific guide. Thank you very much for providing it.
Some of the screws may be different sizes in different 'books. Keeping them separated, or measuring as you remove them, helps. Also, a few of the rubber spacers, etc are not the same in mine as in the photos, and some connectors also differ. I found it helpful to take notes at each Step when they differed from the picture. A guitar pick helps when trying to get the top case free.
This is a difficult project. It is imperative that you read the entire guide before you proceed. Have a system in place to keep track of the screws so you know what goes where. Budget several hours for this.
Not quite sure what this guy is smoking, but he didn't share with the class. The hard drive replacement takes less than 5 minutes and is absolutely within the ability of anyone over the age of 7.
I'm not a super techy guy, but this as much easier than I expected it to be. Just make sure you've got the Torx and mini-screw drivers handy.
The instructions were excellent and the job of removing & replacing the hard-drive went like clockwork. A novice could handle this task easily with modest mechanical skills. Someone previously suggested putting aside several hours to do this..... I disagree as I replaced the HD & both RAM chips in approx. 10 minutes & I was pacing myself. As far as hardware is concerned, I found a total of 7 screws to deal with! You don't have to be too anal to keep track of 7 screws especially when 3 of them are captive in the memory cover. Unless you are mechanically inept, go ahead and do this simple job!
This is a difficult project. It is imperative that you read the entire guide before you proceed. Have a system in place to keep track of the screws so you know what goes where. Budget several hours for this.
Several HOURS?!? It took me 10 minutes.
I just finished this installation, and it went very smoothly. Your instructions were excellent, as were your step-by-step pictures. I couldn't be happier....I saved alot of money because of IFixit, and really appreciate it!
Muchas Grazias, i did the steps to replug the isight cable. And its working again. Maybe doing all the steps was a bit overdressed for my problem. My only tool was a knife. Now only two parts aren´t reassemled: a little screw and a magnet. Thanks a lot again, the camera is working again!
This was an easy installation. I am NOT a tech type, just a mom who wants a better hard drive.
I installed the new hard drive into the MacBook and moved the old hard drive into the new housing in less time than it took my husband to put the baby to bed. Yeah, his bedtime routine with her takes longer than mine, but it's still less than half an hour.
I just cleared off part of the dining room table, put down a towel to keep all the parts from rolling around and followed the step-by-step directions provided here. Sooo easy. Almost too easy.
I look forward to my next MacBook repair, and I will absolutely come back to ifixit.com to get the parts and learn how to do it. I'll be here for support on my iPhone and iPods, too.
Just did an LCD replacement on a white old model MacBook. Followed this guide to a the letter. IT WORKS! I'm commenting on my fixed mac now. Excellent guide. Things I would suggest are to read through everything first and keep a note of screws labeling etc. you'll be grateful on the return trip. Also watch the routing of the cables when working on the lcd housing and right hand side of the lower laptop. Not only have I fixed my problem. I've realized that customizing macs and doing your own repairs is relatively straight forward if you follow instructions.
This website really empowers the apple product user. Shop around for parts, ebay is a good place to start. I got my screen for £65 (UK).
Final word take your time and if you are replacing LCD screens expect it to take up to 6 hours.
Also if you are replacing Samsung LCD screen it has a test port (on left back) which most replacements do not. Don't worry about it, it is nothing to do with a Mac.
thanks again ifixit.com!
This is a difficult project. It is imperative that you read the entire guide before you proceed. Have a system in place to keep track of the screws so you know what goes where. Budget several hours for this.
Best way I've found to keep track of the screws is to use an ice cube tray. Just make sure you don't knock it over by mistake ;P
thursday: made the order on ifixit.com for ldc, spudger, size 0 screwdriver.
monday: items delivered to my place in NY.
monday night: new LCD installed.
thank you ifixit. parts ordered were perfect LCD crisper than the original one. spudger came in handy. this manual was spot on.
thanks again.
The instructions were more than helpful. Very well written. I just need to be better about following them. It was a easy process, it took me about 20 minutes all together. The only thing I ran across it was putting the keyboard back in place. Make sure it's all line up before you start putting screws back in place.
Thanks a lot for this guide. It would have been much more difficult without knowing what to do.
When I was done, the LCD backlight flickered somewhat occasionally. The owner said that had not happened before. I cleaned the LCD plug by blowing with a straw into it but the flickering still happened. Dunno if this was related to my work.
Doe's anybody know if its possible to install a second generation logic board with the core 2 duo in the first generation MacBook?
off course I'm looking to upgrade my first gen MacBook 1,1 using the newer generation MacBook logic board, so may be one of you know whether this process is possible...
Thank you :-)
One note on the fan replacement, or really any MacBook repairs. If you fire your MacBook up and nothing happens but the sleep light is blinking then make sure your memory is seated correctly. I freaked out after installing my new fan but it turns out that all I needed to do was reseat the memory.
THANK YOU for that great guideline! I did it step by step with my iPhone next to the workbench and it went well. One hour to open, one hour to close for me as a complete beginner.
Jonathon55 was referring to the whole pram replacement. I tore apart an ibook years ago and it had less steps then this and I am quite technically adept. Going to pay for apple store to replace, not going to waste half a day doing.
Thank you for this guide. I appreciate the time you took to photograph this and document it.
Don't take notice of the I did it in 10 minutes brigade, replacing the HDd might take 10 minutes but the other jobs will take longer.
Also those that are dissing the author re screws etc. The screws are different lengths. Take the commentators hint and use an ice cube tray, label it 1, 2, 3, .... and put the screws in there. THe difference if 1-2 mm is enough to have a slightly long screw go through a component and kill it.
Again thanks.
The second time i replace the heat sink glue with new stuff.
Today, my over 10 year old mac is still running like a young rabbit. Maybe this glue replacement was helpful to keep it young.
Keep on running for some more years my friend and big thanx to IFIXIT for all these well-made tutorials!
Most of these comments DO NOT refer to the PRAM Battery Replacement — a process which does take two full hours and requires skill and patience to dismantle the MacBook to get to the point of flipping the logicboard to access (and swap out) the bizarre, old-fashioned battery.
The real question has to be: What is this battery? Specifically, does anyone have a part number/voltage specification for it?
If you know, please post the answer here.
Thank you so much!
Lift the battery out of the computer.
Remove the three evenly-spaced Phillips screws from along the rear wall of the battery compartment.
I found the Phillips #000 screwdriver better suited to this task. Additionally there is an issue with scredriver clearance in the battery compartment. You need a stubby screwdriver or something short to get a good angle on the screws.
While many guides here are good, this one is way more complex than needed. You can replace the inverter very easily by prising off the plastic bezel around the display, removing the three screws from the hinge cover, then prising off the hinge cover to expose the inverter. That is all that is needed.
Reference: "prising off the plastic bezel around the display, removing the three screws from the hinge cover, then prising off the hinge cover to expose the inverter. That is all that is needed."
Unfortunately putting it back an shred the cables to the airport card..
Lift up on L-shaped memory cover, slide it to the right, and lift it out of the computer.
Hey iFixit, I was wondering would a Mac fail to boot if this cover wasn't on?
Remove the following 3 screws:
One 11 mm Phillips #00 in the middle of the case.
Two 14.5 mm Phillips #00.
why is this in the guide? there's literally no reason to do this
Remove the following 3 screws from the rear wall of the battery compartment:
Two 3 mm Phillips #00. (A1181 has three 3 mm screws and one 4 mm.)
One 4 mm Phillips #00 on the right side.
When putting the laptop back together, consider doing Step 5 before Step 6. The lower case will then line up on its own.
Otherwise, even pushing on the lower case, these screws are %#$#@$ for putting back in place.
Great advice, IronStrikes. I reversed steps 5 and 6, and the screws went in like a charm.
When I reinstalled, I put the screws in the upper holes, which are for the battery cover. If you don't want to back track, be sure to use the lower screw holes at this step.
On my version the 3 mm screw (smaller of the three screws) was in the middle, which differs from the image.
How do you get these screws out? I can't get the screwdriver to be level enough with the screws to twist them at all.
You could also use a small ratcheting bit driver and bit, or an angled ratcheting bit driver. Good bits and a ratchet can sometimes allow you to apply more torque than you could with a screwdriver. Useful if like me you might have "accidentally" overtightened something the last time.
Remove the two 6 mm Phillips #00 screws from either side of the right wall of the battery compartment (not the ones closest to the battery connector).
Remove the four 3 mm indicated Phillips #00 screws from the front wall of the battery compartment. When working from the left, remove the 2nd, 4th, 7th and 9th screw.
Count carefully here. If you don't remove the right ones, you won't be able to separate the keyboard assembly later.
I have a screw that I think is stripped, any ideas on how to get it out?
Remove the following 4 screws from the back of the computer:
Two 7 mm shouldered Phillips on the far sides.
Two 10.5 mm Phillips toward the center.
Remove the two 5.2 mm shouldered Phillips #00 screws from the optical side of the computer.
I couldn't tighten the screws again. They kept turning. Dunno if the threads were gone or the screws didn't reach them.
Starting near the display and working around to the front of the computer, pry up on the upper case. It is held with clips on the right above the optical drive. These will release with some firm lifting pressure.
Be careful when prying up the upper case. It's very easy to slice open a fingertip and thus provide the blood sacrifice the Mac gods sometimes require of those who insist on doing their own repairs.
I had a lot of trouble lifting up the right side. I had to use a great deal of force, and I hesitated for quite some time for fear of snapping the casing.
Danger Will Robinson!! My upper case did NOT want to come out on the right side. I just trusted to cameronmoll and kept lifting straight up. Finally, it came loose, but it wasn't easy. Meanwhile, while I was dealing with the cable -- just had to pull up a black tab hooked to it -- I somehow managed to chip the front, top edge of the upper case -- the edge farthest from the screen -- in two places, one on the right, one on the left. So, watch that edge, it is thin!
Regarding the right side, there is a series of 3-4 plastic snap in locks on that side along the optical drive, holding the case down in lieu of screws. It takes serious pressure to remove the snapped in pieces (just lift straight up). You should also make sure to line them up when you put the casing back on. Another picture might help show that portion better
My upper case also came off with a little difficulty. There are some plastic tabs that hold the case down (4 of them). They sorta "pinch" onto 4 little bars that are part of the upper case (note, the bars appear to be metal). I worked my upper case to the left a little and it came out easier. One of the these tabs was really tight. Note: if you do this, one or more of the tabs may stay on the upper case, you'll need to move them back in place before putting the upper case back on (pry it off the upper case with a spudger, or very carefully with a flat screwdriver as to not damage it). It will slide back into a slot on the body.
Regarding the right side, there is a series of 3-4 plastic snap in locks on that side along the optical drive, holding the case down in lieu of screws. It takes serious pressure to remove the snapped in pieces (just lift straight up). You should also make sure to line them up when you put the casing back on. Another picture might help show that portion better
Regarding the right side, I found that the 4 clips slide to the left more easily that pull out. However, the front right has a bar which drops into a slots preventing pulling to the left! So ... gently lift the front right (furthest from the screen), pressing just at the front end of the optical slot to bend the faceplate at that point, then gently rock the face plate back and forwards while pulling left, so the that the four clips slide out of their retainers - presto! Remember to bend the faceplate to reassemble.
Step 11 really needs a better description. I started undoing the tape that holds the case above the optical drive slot to the metal before I read the comments and realized what I needed to do. Once you start to pull the top case up from the front, you'll reveal enough of an opening to get a spudger all the way under the metal portion of the top case next to the first snap. Once you have the spudger in, it's easy to release the snap without worrying about bending the whole topcase. Just repeat for the remaining three snaps. Once I got this technique down, it really didn't feel like I was doing anything that might damage the case.
By the way... don't worry if you undo the tape. It will go right back together with a little pressure. I didn't even need to go out and buy some adhesive to fix it.
I recently replaced the inverter cable. Now the power button doesn't work anymore.. but the keyboard and trackpad still do work. I already replaced the uppercase cable with no success. Does somebody have an answer to this problem?
There are 4 plastic locks on the right side which prevent the keyboard from lifting up. They slide out easily if the keyboard is moved to the left. To move the keyboard to the left you first have to release the left and front side. On the left and front side there are metal strips that are snapped in. They should release when you push the metal strips with a spudger towards the center of the computer. We had much trouble releasing one metal snap as we didn't know how to do it.
When you reinstall the keyboard put the plastic bars in the frame at the right side of the case, then snap in the keyboard on the left and front side and finally snap the keyboard into the plastic snaps to the right. Be careful so they don't fall out before you snap them in.
A metal piece fell out of the computer. It was a shielding of a connector on the left side.
A tiny plastic disc (4 mm diameter) with a hole in the middle also fell out. I had little hope to find out where it belonged and it didn't seem too important, so I left it, but kept it in a minigrip bag. Does anyone know what it's for?
Pull straight up on the section above the optical drive. If you slide this section out, you'll have to slide it back in for reassembly, which is harder than pushing vertically.
There are four plastic clips above the CD slot that may come off or stay attached to the uppercase. On reassembly remove them from the upper case and locate the clips into the slots in the frame inside the lower case before lowering the upper case down into position.
Be really careful! I broke the connector easily and had to replace it.
It is out of stock on iFixit. I found it there: https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/B01MSH3...
While holding up the upper case (from the bottom or the top), use a spudger to pry up the orange trackpad and keyboard cable from its connector.
It lifts straight up.
I'd suggest being careful and perhaps having help with step 12, as I have broken the connector piece at the end of the cable by pulling too hard/fast and having the connector stuck in the board and the ribbon dangling without purpose.
Does anybody know of a good way to repair such a ribbon, or am I stuck buying new upper case units?
An extra picture or warning should be added about this... The same as you, I broke the connector. I didn't even use any force, but the pins got off the cable and now I'm forced into buying a new one. Trying to buy one from ebay as we speak. It might have been due to metal fatigue after 7 years, but it got broken none the less.
The computer serial number and network IDs are on the underside of the top case (visible in the battery compartment.) In order to prevent misidentification in the future (for instance, while on the phone with Apple tech support), I print the info from the old top case on a sticker and affix it over the label on the new top case.
A lot of top case replacements are due to the front edge being broken by the bumpers on the lid of the MacBook. I stick a couple of felt dots on either side of these bumpers to absorb some of the shock when the lid is slapped shut, to prevent damage to the new top case.
I think that one extra picture should be added here. That is to say, the purpose of using the spudger (which I do suggest you should buy so that you don't risk ruining the orange cable), is to unplug a little connection. Basically your are "popping" it open. Had I known this it would have made th4e process feel a little less risky. In any case the mission was successful... Job completed in 45 minutes and my computer has wireless internet once again!!
Do NOT use a spudge!!! Just pull in the tab. Spudge Ruins the cable!
The image is misleading. Don't pry it up from the front, but from the sides. Personally I used a small flathead screwdriver, but sadly - only after ripping apart the soldering on the wire/plug.
Also, be careful to lift the white plastic plug, not the circuitboard/wire attached to it
I'm repairing the Black version which appears to be slightly different from the picture. There is a flexible black tab on top of the connector. All I had to do was lift up the tab with my finger and pull the connector straight up.
After reading everyone's comments, I used the narrow spudger and slid it around from the front to the right then the front to the left and it lifted up easily..
It is not clear from the repair description nor the comments if the brown cable connected keyboard is compatible with the silver cable connected keyboard. Can someone indicate clearly please what this difference means to us wishing to replace the keyboard? Does it mean there are two distinctly different keyboards, one with a brown cable and one with a silver cable?
This is the most critical stage of removing the cable either silver or orange. It is difficult to hold the keyboard away far enough to be able to reach in and with a spludger clearly see where to pry open. iFixit of course sell these cables but if the image of the cable being prized open then fewer people would rip the cable and have to order more parts from iFixit…..we have to keep our eyes on our own ranks, in case we are tempted to again take advantage of 'inside knowledge'. Yes, I make a good photo but here there is no place to upload to help you all. I can imagine that that cable is the source of most keyboard problems, so take it out only when very well illuminated and everything is steady so you can get the spudger into the exact place to do its job. My next repair job is a MacBook Retina 12" early 2015 - the screen blisters when left in the sunshine leaving a large black hole which expands and contracts daily. 2019 02 16
If you have a better photo, click the 'Edit' button at the top right and add it to the step. iFixit guides are collaborative wikis.
Once you have the keyboard removed, check your inverter cable plug. Mine wasn't seated properly (hardly at all), so I reconnected the display cable and keyboard, then I turned on the power. My display was back up! I didn't actually need the new cable after all.
Before you move on to the next steps, just check that inverter cable plug. It's in Step 31. It may save you some time and a big headache.
Grasp the white plastic tab attached to the hard drive and pull it to the left, removing the hard drive from the computer.
I've done several of these without removing the optical drive, etc, and just gone directly to replacing the hinges from here.
I've done several of these without removing the optical drive, etc, and just gone directly to replacing the hinges from here.
How did you remove the display portion of the clamshell without dislodging the display cable?
I've done several of these without removing the optical drive, etc, and just gone directly to replacing the hinges from here.
Agreed! There is no need to remove the optical drive to get the LCD out at this point.You do need to remove the hinge screws and retainers, but just long enough to pop off the plastic cover to expose the inverter. You do need to support the lid assemble a bit while doing this (an extra hand is nice if available) but it only take a second to remove the inverter cover. Then I'd put the hinges partially back together with two screws and proceed with removing the LCD panel from the frame at this point. Saves quite a bit of time and headache not having to remove the optical drive and everything in the remaining steps.
Important thing about this repair is to take your time, moveslowly and be very organized with all your screws and parts. I use a multi-compartment organizer for all my laptop repairs and label each compartment with tape (ie. LCD frame, hinges, Bottom Panel, Inverter cover...) Makes re-assembly easy and no leftover screws in the end!!
Step 13 should be called "Remove Hard Drive", not "Optical Drive". The hard drive is NOT an optical drive.
I have no need to remove the HDD. They probably suggest it so theres no data loss or something but that wont happen if the macbook has been powered off and the power supply is remove for about 2 minute. Like bradley i usually go for the hinges but usually i remove the disk drive or cd or cd rom drive. Then i unscrew all the pieces around the hinges supporting the LCD then go for the hinges. Basically thats how i replace the lcd
Remove the two Phillips screws from the front edge of the optical drive.
had trouble getting the screw on the right back in, make sure the drive is sufficiently pushed back into the case when inserting the screw
Disconnect the orange optical drive ribbon cable from the logic board.
Disconnect the newly-revealed display data cable. If there is no pull-tab on the top of the connector, it may be helpful to use a spudger to disconnect this connector.
Disconnect the (once again) newly-revealed hard drive cable.
Peel up the foil tape between the fan and the optical drive.
Remove the 8.5 mm Phillips screw securing the display data cable to the metal framework.
Be careful pulling the silver tape, it does tear rather easily
Pull up the display data cable from along the edge of the optical drive to reveal a silver Phillips screw.
Remove the 2.8 mm Phillips screw securing the optical drive.
After removing the screw, push the metal tab backwards, towards the fan, to release the front of the optical drive.
That screw is covered in cables. You will have to be careful and patient
While trying to remove the screw with no luck I've though of turning the laptop upside down and use the power of gravity, a small black plastic item fell down and couldn't figure out where is belong (see link)
Any one have an idea where this belong to ?
While trying to remove the screw with no luck I've though of turning the laptop upside down and use the power of gravity, a small black plastic item fell down and couldn't figure out where is belong (see link) http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/566/353... Any one have an idea where this belong to ? Thanks
Remember that the metal piece on the dvd-drive where the screw should go threw is moveable! Just move it into position with your screw-driver or the pointed end of your spudger.
Replacing the optical drive screw was the hardest step of the entire procedure for me. The eyelet for the screw can't be moved into position until the drive is in place, buried under cables, and in friction against the case. Sliding it into position makes a protrusion that has to be lined up with a little notch in the case at the mouth of the optical drive.
If anyone has tips on making this go smoothly, please add; it took me probably ten minutes of gentle wiggling, removing and replacing and trying again.
Lift the Bluetooth antenna board from the right side of the optical drive.
pay attention of litting up the bluetooth antenna, there is one very thin cable ..
Deroute the hard drive cable from along the front of the optical drive.
Lift the front edge of the optical drive and slide it up and out of the computer.
When you put the drive back in, there is a sliding bar on the far edge of it (per perspective in photo) that goes into a notch in the computer case. The opposite end of the bar has the hole mount for a screw. So, if you're having trouble lining up that screw hole with the hole in the case, make sure the bar is sliding into place. (It's the drive screw that's covered in cables)
I couldn't get the optical drive screw hole under the cables (IE: eyelet which is part of the bar) to line up for about 15 minutes... Then I read your comment.
Be careful, if the eyelet doesn't line up, don't try to force the drive into position toward the opening. It's probably because the eyelet, which is not fixed, needs to be slid into position. It slides with the bar on the right side of the drive. Trying to push it in, I bent the bar slightly at the front so it would never line up properly. I gently straightened the bar and because of these instructions, understood how it was supposed to line up and fit - and it slipped right in. As long as you get the bar lined up right, you can gently push the eyelet forward and the bar will go into the slot and everything will line up properly. That is, you gently push the eyelet forward until it lines up with the screw hole.
My Mail -
Also mind the plastic grey clips that are on the "chassis". These clips are referenced in step 11 (the 1st bullet point). My clips fell out. I had no idea what they were at first or where they belonged. When sliding out the optical drive, the clips can fall out into the space that was previously occupied by the optical drive. They are easy to slide back into the "frame" of the computer. There are four of these plastic clips.
Found two gray plastic pieces loose when I got the Drive out, any idea what they are, where they go and if they are important? Great site, very helpful, love you guys.
Remove the following 3 screws:
Two 3 mm Phillips near the right speaker.
One 6 mm Phillips threaded through a hole in a plastic finger above the subwoofer.
there was only the subwoofer screw, other 2 appear to be missing.
there was only the subwoofer screw, other 2 appear to be missing.
Stranger things have happened inside MacBooks I have dealt with. Just be glad it isn't the screws holding your desk chair together.
there was only the subwoofer screw, other 2 appear to be missing.
This guide is for the Core Duo MacBook, you may be referring to the screws which exist inside Penryn/Santa Rosa machine.
I can't seem to get the subwoofer screw out. It's stuck. There were other tough screws but I managed to get them out. For this one, it won't even budge. I'm afraid of stripping the screw completely.
Mine has only the middlw screw, no c-channel part, so it's easier!
Lift the right speaker out of its housing and set it to the side.
Using a spudger, gently pry up the white plastic slot and slide the metal c-channel to the right and away from the display.
c-channel is missing
Your computer is missing the c-channel?
Your computer is missing the c-channel?
This guide is for the Core Duo MacBook, you may be referring to the Penryn/Santa Rosa MacBook which does not have the c-channel.
Be careful, the plastic slot breaks easily. Mine broke, but it went back together okay. Seems stable.
Use a spudger to carefully disconnect the microphone cable from the logic board. You'll want to work from side to side, and slowly wiggle the connector out of its socket.
VERY IMPORTANT!!!! The plug backs out of its jack along the plane of the logic board, away from the front of the computer, toward the screen. YOU DO NOT PULL IT STRAIGHT UP FROM THE BOARD! The photo is ambiguous, and I ended up ripping away from the logic board the jack the microphone cable plugs into. I doubt I'll be able to solder it back on again, so bye-bye internal mic.
penny wise, dollar foolish ... socket came clean off the logic board -- this needs a heavily magnified illustration
Lift up on the black right speaker cable with one hand, and deroute the silver microphone cable from the silver metal clip just above the right RAM slot.
Step 29: In order to deroute this cable, is it necessary to unscrew the screw below the subwoofer?
There is no clip in my MacBook 2009 and the mic cable is black, not silver and is easy to deroute.
Deroute the silver microphone cable and gray display data cable from the tabs at the bottom of the subwoofer.
Remove the single 3.2 mm Phillips screw securing the ground loop in the display data cable located just above the Bluetooth board.
Disconnect the two antenna cables from the Airport card, and the black inverter cable from the logic board. (Pull vertically on all three.)
(carefully 'lift up' on each antenna cables and on the black inverter cable to to disconnect them from the logic board)
seems my laptop has 3 antenna cables... a black, blue and grey cabled one. Does this mean I have a 'Penryn/Santa Rosa MacBook' and do I need to look at a different guide..?
seems my laptop has 3 antenna cables... a black, blue and grey cabled one. Does this mean I have a 'Penryn/Santa Rosa MacBook' and do I need to look at a different guide..?
on the back cover there should be in small print that should tell you the model type of ur mac. its right between the two screews and shouldnt be that hard to find unless you somehow scratched it off
%%@^. I ripped out one of the antenna's connectors. Any idea how to fix this?
Make sure to pull vertically on the inverter cable to remove it from the motherboard.
I had also a third cable but fortunately also replaced it with a correct display, so: no problem! Model: early 2007.
First the black, same place, in the middle the blue one and the grey at the end same place, just change the blue in the middle
Remove the following 2 screws from the right hinge mount:
One 6 mm Phillips on the left side of the hinge mount.
One 10 mm Phillips on the right side of the hinge mount.
Lift the right hinge mount out of the computer.
There is a 3rd screw on the right hinge mount also.
This guide is for the Core Duo MacBook, you may be referring to the Penryn/Santa Rosa MacBook which has 3 screws here.
Hold the display with one hand while removing the screws from the left hinge mount.
Remove the following 3 screws from the left hinge mount:
One 6 mm smaller diameter Phillips from the right side.
One 6 mm larger diameter Phillips from the middle.
One 10 mm Phillips from the left side.
Lift the left hinge mount out of the computer.
Take a good look at where all the cables and wires are routed in the next couple steps! You might even want to take a few pictures. They must be routed exactly the same way going back together. Either stuff will not fit, or you'll get intermittent video.
Grasp the display assembly on either side, and lift it up and out of the computer.
Use a thin plastic card to release the tabs and their clips holding the front display bezel to the display assembly. There are five tabs along the left side of the display bezel.
When you go to replace the bezel, look at the back side and disconnect any of the little snap-on tabs that may not have stayed in the metal bracket around the LCD. On a white MacBook they were grey, about 4mm x 8mm. They work best if you put them into the metal frame separate from the bezel and then snap the bezel into them.
The best way to remove them seemed to be by placing my thumb over one edge (so they didn't fly off) and prying with a thin, flat screwdriver flat against the bezel tab.
Hello I've seen a video on Youtube where the guy skipped all the previous steps and got to the inverter without taking the screen off. Seems like it saves a lot of time and potential problems, since I have never done anything like this. Does anyone recommend doing it? I see it's more accessible to just try to get to the inverter without taking the screen off first.
Continue to free the tabs along the the top edge of the display assembly.
Next, free the five tabs securing the display bezel on the right side.
Lift up the front display bezel from the top and use your plastic card to free the tabs along the bottom edge of the display bezel.
After freeing all holding tabs, lift the front display bezel away from the display assembly.
A note for anyone panicking because they can't get their front bezel back on:
It is common for the grey clips holding the bezel to the display to come up along with the bezel. If you have ANY grey clips attached to the back of your bezel, in order to replace the bezel you need to first remove the clips from the bezel and reinsert them into the holes in the display panel manually first! Once all of these clips are back in place, the bezel can be reattached.
These clips are very fragile and if you are having this problem odds are you have already severely bent some of them. Check the tiny plastic clasps and if they are squashed down, gently pry them back up with your fingernail. Again these grey clips are very fragile, so use care in reattaching them.
This was a very helpful tip. I made the mistake at first when reading your note, thinking that the gray clips were supposed to be on the bezel, not the display, but quickly corrected that.
For anyone confused, the bezel is the thin plastic part surrounded the display, and the display of course houses the LCD.
Another note:
The easiest way to remove the clips from the bezel is from the side and pry up. To reattach them to the display, put one end of the clip in first, and then use tweezers to poke in the other end of the clip.
A note for anyone panicking because they can't get their front bezel back on:
It is common for the grey clips holding the bezel to the display to come up along with the bezel. If you have ANY grey clips attached to the back of your bezel, in order to replace the bezel you need to first remove the clips from the bezel and reinsert them into the holes in the display panel manually first! Once all of these clips are back in place, the bezel can be reattached.
These clips are very fragile and if you are having this problem odds are you have already severely bent some of them. Check the tiny plastic clasps and if they are squashed down, gently pry them back up with your fingernail. Again these grey clips are very fragile, so use care in reattaching them.
Use a metal spudger or another thin tool to carefully pry the gray plastic clips off the tabs molded into the front display bezel. A 0.8mm flat screwdriver may be useful for this step. You may find that it's easier to remove some of these clips by prying up on their long sides.
I found that an easy way to remove the clips from the bezel is to use a plastic knife (knife as in the utensil). Sliding the knife under one of the clip's long sides and prying upwards worked well for me. Thanks MC25 and WillyDavidK for the tips, they worked great!
The plastic clips deform easily, making it difficult to reuse them. The tabs on the back of the bezel that fit into the clips also break off easily.
If any of the tabs or clips are omitted, the bezel will not lie flush nor will it hold the cables that run beneath it in place.
Wear gloves while wrangling with the white bezel—like the white topcase, the matte-finish plastic is very porous and quickly gets grubby.
Insert one end of the retaining clip beneath the edge of its recess cut into the LCD bracket.
Use the edge of a spudger to push the short hook tab on the underside of the other end of the retaining clip into the recess cut into the LCD bracket.
Remove the three 4.2 mm Phillips screws securing the clutch cover.
In this picture you can see that it is a Nikon camera that was used for this guide. :)
While holding the display down with one hand, use your other hand to lift the left end of the clutch cover off the clutch hinge and guide the inverter cable and AirPort cables through the gap in the clutch cover. If the cables snag on the two hooked tabs on the inside end of the clutch cover, free them carefully.
There are little clips at each end of the clutch cover, and I found it helpful first to lift the clutch cover off the metal rod first, and after that squeeze the cables at each end between the clips, so you can lift the cover off.
Lift up the right end of the clutch cover while guiding the display data and iSight cables through the gap and the two hooked tabs at the right end of the clutch cover. If the cables snag on the two hooked tabs, free them carefully.
Lift the clutch cover off of the display assembly.
Pay attention here. I missed the part about pinching the cable and that's exactly what I did. It helps to pull the video and mic cables tight to fit the clutch cover on. I also had to make sure the pink/white cables were up and out of the way. When I did it correctly, it slid in pretty easily. It would help to really look at how things are arranged when you are taking it apart, too. There's some tabs that interconnect with the plastic sliding things you removed in steps 46-47.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Excellent guide. Thank you.
I just wish I read it before stripping down my MacBook last night.
At least I know what screws go where when reassembling it with new hinges.


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Obama History Dual Citizen Obama's School Barry Soetoro 251.565 MAPS ARK HISTORY Expedition Pics ELS MAP 1 ELS Map 2 ELS MAP 3 ELS MAP 4 ELS MAP 5 ELS MAP 11 ELS MAP 12 ELS MAP 13 ELS MAP 14 ELS MAP 15 ELS MAP 16 EXPEDITIONS ETHIOPIA&ARK Tanis&the Ark Who's a Jew? Tree of Life 2012 Dates Encoded Ron Wyatt & Saudi Sinai Vatican&Hitler Vatican Rule Jack Lu: The Finance Jew Act of God & Election Ukraine Riots Rosetta Comet Landing Boston Marathon Sue Bradley OBAMACARE Shutdown Secession Vote? Obama hoax? NewYork Curse Major Hassan Hitler Youth Code Hypothesis United States Ariel Sharon Netanyahu Wins, Yair Lapid 2nd McChrystal Fired Obama Security Apartheid Israel? Obama, Muslim King of Sodom Obama Brother Sgt Bob Bales Korean Execution Mars Lies Ishmael's Birth Sochi Terror Gas Masks in Israel Korans Burned New Gaza War Gaza Jabari Hit Assad's Missiles Chris Dorner Piers Morgan: Amend Bible? Khalid Mansour 8-27-2012 GOP Convention Egypt's Election Attack via Azerbaijan Philadelphi Rt. Paul Ryan Whitney Houston Nazarene-wife Asteroid Toutatis Mayan Doomsday Holdings Book Ahmadinejad in Space Korean Rocket Coach Sandusky Armstrong&Moon Armada vs. Iran Qaddaffi son killed Romney&Bain Trump's wife abd election problems Mormon Concerns London Olympics Photos&Maps 2 Zubrin & Mars 7/28/12 Threats? Mars Stonewall Weather Goof by Mars Rover Remote Viewing Comet Lovejoy Space Shuttle Odd Shortsale Japan Tsunami Fukushima&End Meltdown Plutonium&H2O UFO Abduction Shutdown Deal WikiLeaks 1st Debate No Teleprompter Rodney King China in Space? Alien Hybrids? Bob Salas UFO MSL Sky Color Mars Sky Color Ashima/MIT&Mars End of NASA Brain-Reading Brokow vs. Gingrich Newt Gingrich Santorum&Gays Roberts Vote Ron Paul Cain Withdraws Jeb Bush 2012 Assad's Wife French Election Basketball Court Hamid Karzai Terror in France Mofaz&Netanyahu BeerSheba Attack George Soros Shalit Release Steve Jobs Social Security Barney Frank Michele Bachman Mineral Quake 9-11-2011 Lennon&Imagine Irene Flood Joplin Tornado Casey Anthony Jeff Savage Eilat Attack Renfroe UFO Mt. Sinai Pics Rocket Defense Haiti Earthquake Giffords shot Impeach Obama? Obama Loss Qaddaffi&Obama Don't ask/tell? Internet Dangers Past Presidents Jon Huntsman Bush Memoirs Bin Laden New Civil War? Rahm Emanuel Roman Rahm Mayor Rahm Antimatter Planet Kepler22b Atomic Iran Peace Talks Abu Mazen U.S. Israel Rift Israeli ship-raid Iran Chicken Iran&Suez Canal Mousavvi Top Kill Fails Pakistan Flood Halliburton&Oil Mars Monolith Potter UFO 2 End of All Life IRS Attack Chemical Ali Oil Spill Oil and Life Airline Miracle Christmas Polish President Gaza Iron Wall Life on Mars Ark to Mars UFO Onion-Drive Wormholes Martian Life Olympus Mons MSL Mars Launch H Bomb Test Supercollider ANTIGRAVITY Robson&Jupiter Onion Drive Update NIKOLA TESLA Armageddon Assad Holocaust PALIN RESIGNS 613 IRAN WAR Gaza Invasion ZECHARIAH Statistics Permutation Control Text Obama&Islam NASA Director Michael Jackson To Muslims 2008 Election Clintons Clinton Weds Nuclear War? Baal Zephon B. Zephon&Ark Implications Jeremiah&Ark Vendyl Jones In Jerusalem? Al-Awlaki Death Ark Destroyed? Titus/Rome Knights Templar Mt. Nebo/Ireland? ELIYAHU RIPS Rabbi Glazerson Hawass&Permits Religious Tests Other Texts? Mayan Calendar Google&Privacy Nasrallah Judge Elena Kagan Obama&McCain Snooping Skip Tables Term Positions RABIN MURDER 27-August-2012 Judge More (sp.) YASIR ARAFAT Hurricanes Walter K. York Romney&Netanyahu LINKS Roswell Angelic Doctor Joseph Smith Rod Rosenstein Transgender Michelle? Mars SAM Buy ARK CODE ROFFMAN BIO Weiner Scandal Spiritual Custody Contents Annulled Ch. 1 Annulled Ch. 2 Annulled Ch. 3 Annulled Ch. 4 Annulled Ch. 5 Annulled Ch. 6 Annulled Ch. 7 Annulled Ch. 8 Annulled Ch. 9 Annulled Ch10 Annulled Ch11 Annulled Ch12 Annulled Ch13 Annulled Ch14 Annulled Ch15 Annulled Ch16 Annulled Ch17 Annulled Ch18 Annulled Ch19 Annulled Ch20 Annulled Ch21 Annulled Ch22 Annulled Ch23 Epilogue Custody press coverage MSL Yr 5 Fall MSL Yr 5 Summer MSL Yr 5 SPRING MSL Yr 4-5 Winter MSL Yr 4 Fall MSL Yr 4 Summer MSL Yr 4 Spring MSL Yr 3 Winter MSL Yr 3 Fall Twenty and back MSL Yr 3 Summer MSL Yr 3 Spring MSL Yr 2-3 Winter Kerry Obama Iran Hoax Sept 4 2019 Radio Show Ebrahimi Update DOD-UKMOD SITREP 3 JULY 2020 R VALUES Enemy John Kerry DarkSide Ramsomware BIDEN FOR HAMAS Malaysia shoot down Custom 3 Pelosi & Milley vs. Trump Israel blows up Iranian missile base Saule Omarova & Our Money Shi Zhengli Covid Bat Woman Steven Weil and Ethiopian Jewry Custom 3 OCT 20 2021 RADIO INTERVIEW Custom 3
Truer words were never spoken. 1/16/2014.
Israeli Defense Minister Moshe Ya'Alon was quoted in an Israeli newspaper, Yedioth Ahronoth, on January 14, 2014 as stating that U.S. Secretary of State John Kerry is "obsessive" and "messianic." He also stated that Kerry "should take his Nobel Prize and leave us alone. Further, of the Palestinian leader. "Abu Mazen (President of the Palestine National Authority Mahmoud Abbas) lives and dies by our sword. Once we leave Judea and Samaria, he is finished. In effect, during these past months, there haven't been negotiations with the Palestinians, but with the Americans." On the matrix below, the axis term is MOSHE YA' ALON. In the column next to him, at the same absolute skip but opposite direction, is MESSIAH. At skip -1 is KERRY.
Figure 1 below: Ya'Alon calls Kerry "Messianic."
STATISTICAL SIGNIFICANCE OF THE MATRIX. As per my standard protocol, no statistical significance is assigned to the axis term, here MOSHE YA'ALON at its 19th lowest ELS in wrapped Torah. MESSIAH occurs on the 88-letter matrix at a special case skip (+/- 1 or the absolute skip of the axis term) against odds of about 289 to 1, and KERRY occurs at such a skip against odds of about 17 to 1, but the combined odds against such a matrix of 4,960 much be reduced by a factor of 19 due to ELS rank 19 of the axis term. Thus the combined odds against such a matrix occurring by chance are about 261 to 1. We can add Prime Minister Netanyahu to the same matrix but it requires a row split of three. The signigicance increases with odds against the matrix rising to 978 to 1. If we use a row split of 3 as is seen on the bottom matrix, we add NETANYAHU and come up with a matrix that exists against odds of about 978 to 1.
POLITICAL SIGNIFICANCE OF THE REMARKS. President Obama is the most hostile American president that Israel has ever had to deal with. With the help of John Kerry he has virtually assured that Iran will acquire nuclear weapons (if they have not already done so). On January 14, 2014 Iran President Rouhani announced that the United States and other world powers effectively "surrendered" to Tehran with the newly struck nuclear deal. As for negotiations between Israel and the Palestinians, they are totally worthless because the simple fact is that Abu Mazen does not have any power over the Hamas-run government in Gaza, nor will those Palestinians observe any agreement that Mazen attempts to negotiate in their favor. Thus, there is no real Palestinian government for Israel to negotiate with. There can be no "two state solution" between the Israelis and the Palestinians while the Palestinians act like two states that are enemies of each other. Two plus one equals three, and neither Kerry nor Obama can do anything about that math. It would be best for Kerry to back off. Ten trips by Kerry to Israel does not mean that Israel is required to commit suicide by following his "guidance." Ya'Alon rightly told the Israeli newspaper that, "The American security plan is not worth the paper it is written on."
A word about the word "Messianic." It doesn't mean the same thing to a Jew as it does to a Christian. For an accurate description of what the term means to Jews (not "Messianic Jews" are are really Christians), see Judaism 101. The most important aspect involves ending war permanently. Thus the article includes an end of wickedness. There will be no murder. When Ya'Alon says Kerry is Messianic, he may be saying that Kerry thinks he can end war and all murder in the name of Fundamental Islam. If this is so, Kerry is a fool. On the other hand, Ya'Alon may think Kerry is trying to fulfill Christian concepts related to what they see as the return of the Messiah. Before such a return many Fundamental Christians believe that there must be (false) peace in Israel for three and a half years. This they see as related to the anti-Christ (Obama?) who must come before return of the Nazarene. If this is what Ya'Aon suspects, then again Ya'Alon is right to reject Kerry (and Obama).


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Support Worker
- Employer
- Location
- Liverpool, Merseyside
- Salary
- Up to £11.00 per hour
- Closing date
- 28 Sep 2023
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- Contract
- Permanent
- Hours
- Full time or Part time
- Listing type
- Job vacancy
- Industry
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- Job level
- Experienced (non manager)
- Workplace
- No remote option
Job Details
Are you looking for a role in Mental Health, which is stimulating and rewarding every day?
We are recruiting a Support Worker for our Mental Health service in Liverpool, Merseyside. At our inclusive supported living services based in Liverpool, we provide person-centred support to adults with a range of mental health needs who have unique support needs. This is a fantastic service which enables great outcomes for the people we support.
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Over the last 12 months we have supported 7,000 people with care and support needs to achieve their goals, grow in independence and take control over their lives. A further 1,400 tenants have benefitted from the provision of high quality housing with support.
Creative Support has a reputation for being dynamic, enterprising and customer-focused and for finding innovative ways to deliver services. We are committed to co-production with the people we support and to working in partnership with the local voluntary sector and other agencies to find creative solutions to individual and community needs.
We currently employ over 5,000 staff and aim to be the employer of choice for people seeking a rewarding career in social care. We hold the Investors in People (Silver Award) and have achieved the Investing in Volunteers quality standard. Creative Support are also a proud Stonewall Diversity Champion organisation. Our Creative Academy provides excellent training and accredited diplomas, enabling staff to develop their skills and grow in confidence. We are proud to maintain the Skills for Care endorsement which is the quality badge for health and social care training.
Make a difference and work at Creative Support
Working for Creative Support is more than just a job. It's the opportunity to make a difference and have a positive impact on people's lives. We are committed to employing a diverse workforce to provide responsive, person-centred support which promotes the independence, wellbeing and social inclusion of the people we support. We are looking to recruit compassionate, well-motivated and resourceful individuals with a willingness to go the extra mile across all of our services and regional offices.
- Website
- http://creativesupport.co.uk/
- Telephone
- 01612360829
- Location
Greater Manchester
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Ibanez GSR105EX 5-String Bass Guitar - Mahogany Oil
Ibanez GSR105EX 5-String Bass Guitar - Mahogany Oil
A guitar doesn't have to cost a bundle to sound good. The GIO series was developed for players who want Ibanez quality in a more affordable package. GSRs offer the famous Soundgear sleekness, comfort, tone, and playability. Not only do they look and play better than everything else in their price range, but their rigorous inspection, set-up and warranty is the same as Ibanez's more expensive models.
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|Electric Body Style
|Pickup Config
|Right Left Handed
|Vib Trem Bridge
|Body Material
|B15 bridge (16.5mm string spacing)
|Tone, Volume
|Fingerboard Radius
|Mahogany Oil
|Hardware Finish
|Neck Material
|Number of Frets
|Nut Material
|Pickup Switching
|PPD5 bridge pickup (Passive)
|Scale Length
|34" ( 864mm)
Ibanez Electric Guitars and Basses Limited Warranty
Ibanez Electric Guitars and Basses sold in the United States are warranted by Hoshino USA. Please note that this information is only for Ibanez electric guitars and basses sold by authorized dealers in the United States.
Please return your completed Ibanez Warranty Card within 10 days of purchase to ensure proper owner registration of your guitar. This Ibanez Electric guitar ('Instrument') is warranted to be free from defects in materials and workmanship to the original owner, subject to all the following terms and conditions.
The Warranty provided herein is for a period of one (1) year from the date of the original retail purchase.
This Warranty is given by Hoshino (U.S.A.) Inc., 1726 Winchester Rd., Bensalem, Pennsylvania 19020 ('Hoshino') only to the original purchaser of this Instrument. Hoshino will repair or replace any part or parts of the Instrument which may prove defective under normal use and service during the one(1) year Warranty Time Period stated above (which Hoshino's examination shall disclose to its satisfaction to be thus defective. This Warranty does not apply unless you provide a copy of your original sales receipt.
This Warranty does not cover: (a) any non-factory-installed electrical/electronic components or tuning hardware; (b) damage or defects due to alteration, misuse, abuse, normal wear and tear, extremes of temperature or humidity or abnormal strain; (c) accidental or intentional damage; (d) damage in shipping; (e) the repair or replacement of expendable maintenance items including, but not limited to, strings, tuning machines, or scratched pickguards; (f) normal fret wear; (g) plating on metal parts; (h) cracking or other damage to the finish; (i) any damage from accessories (synthetic straps, etc.); (j) an Instrument whose serial number has been defaced; (k) tonal characteristics (tone is a subjective matter and is not warranted); or (l) any Instrument purchased from other than an authorized Ibanez dealer.
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You must maintain this instrument, without alteration, negligent use, misuse or abuse. All service of this Instrument must be performed by Hoshino. Any service performed on this instrument by other than Hoshino, or not specifically authorized by Hoshino, will terminate this Warranty.
Hoshino's sole and exclusive responsibility shall be as provided under this Warranty and, under no circumstances shall Hoshino be liable for any incidental or consequential damages. This limited warranty is your exclusive remedy and is made in lieu of all other warranties, express or implied; all implied warranties, including, without limitation, any implied warranty or merchantability or fitness for a particular purpose, are hereby expressly limited in duration to the duration of this written warranty. Some states do not allow limitations on how long an implied warranty lasts or the exclusion or limitation of incidental or consequential damages, so the above limitations or exclusions may not apply to you. This Warranty gives you specific legal rights, and you may also have other rights which vary from state to state. No person, whether or not an agent, is authorized to make or assume any obligations other than those stated in this warranty.
Save your receipt! Ibanez cannot perform any Warranty Service without a copy of your original sales receipt. The registration of this Ibanez Guitar is important as it will allow Hoshino to keep you apprised of any improvements and / or upgrades made after your purchase.