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By the end of 2016, Afghanistan's air force is due to have 86 Russian-made Mi-17 helicopters. Most of them will have been purchased by the United States from Rosoboronexport, the same state weapons exporter that continues to arm the Syrian government of Bashar al-Assad.
Congress is not pleased — but has struggled to do anything about it.
The Pentagon says that there is no better, cheaper helicopter than the Mi-17 to operate in Afghanistan's desert expanses and high altitudes, and that it is the aircraft the Afghans know best.
For its latest order of 30 helicopters, the Defense Department sidestepped a congressional ban imposed last year on using fiscal 2013 funds to buy anything from Rosoboronexport. Instead, the military found money in its 2012 Afghanistan budget to finance the nearly $600 million contract.
Adding insult to perceived injury, the Pentagon said it would have gone ahead with the contract even if it had to use 2013 funds, under a waiver provision in the ban that allows it to take action it determines to be in U.S. national security interests.
"Gosh sakes, we won the vote 407 to 5," fumed Rep. James P. Moran (D-Va.), who spearheaded the prohibition in the House. "These guys are only focused on Afghanistan and couldn't care less what is happening in Syria." Last month, the House Appropriations Committee added a similar amendment to the 2014 defense funding bill.
Sen. John Cornyn (R-Tex.), who organized last year's unanimous Senate vote, chastised the administration for "arrogant circumvention" of bipartisan congressional will and said, "American taxpayers should not be indirectly subsidizing the murder of Syrian civilians."
The dispute over the helicopters is only the latest political controversy involving Rosoboronexport. In 2006, the George W. Bush administration accused the company of transferring sensitive technology and weapons to Iran and eventually imposed sanctions against any U.S. purchases from the exporter.
The Obama administration lifted the sanctions in 2010 as part of its policy "reset" toward Russia, after Moscow suspended delivery of S-300 missiles to Iran — the same advanced antiaircraft system that Rosoboronexport has contracted to provide Assad — and agreed to support U.N. sanctions against Iran.
During the sanctions period, the Pentagon bought an initial batch of Mi-17s for Afghanistan from U.S. contractors who purchased them directly from Russian manufacturers.
As the United States prepared to tender the recent contract, Russia's Defense Ministry decreed that all items destined for "military use" could be sold only through Rosoboronexport. U.S. contractors cried foul and sought congressional support when the Pentagon agreed to submit to the new rule.
Pentagon officials said the Mi-17s are the most sensible solution for Afghanistan.
"They've been using it for years," Defense Secretary Chuck Hagel said in House testimony in April. "Easy maintenance, unsophisticated. We can get it pretty quickly. That's the one they want."
Gen. Martin E. Dempsey, chairman of the Joint Chiefs of Staff, told lawmakers that the purchase was a crucial component of U.S. withdrawal plans from Afghanistan. "We are trying . . . to provide them as much capability as possible so that they can in fact take responsibility for security" when U.S. combat forces leave at the end of 2014, he said.
But an audit issued two weeks ago by the Special Inspector General for Afghanistan Reconstruction called the recent 30-helicopter contract "imprudent." It said Afghanistan's rudimentary air force was incapable of operating and maintaining the aircraft without significant U.S. military support and called for the contract to be suspended pending further planning.
Lawmakers have also objected to Russian maintenance training and spare-parts programs for the helicopters in Afghanistan, an arrangement worked out by NATO as part of its efforts to foster closer Russian cooperation with the alliance.
Dempsey said that disagreement with Russia over Syria did not mean there could not be collaboration elsewhere. "It's easy to point out the friction points among nations, whether it's Russia or China," he said, "but there's also plenty of places where we have common interests, and Afghanistan just happens to be one of those with Russia."
Moran questioned what he called "at best, a mixed signal we're sending to the Russians. We really don't want them selling arms to Syria, but we're going to keep buying arms from them anyway," he said. "We ought to be able to walk and chew gum at the same time. . . . It doesn't seem to be asking too much to have a coordinated policy here."


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Examples and Help
Example queries: hello, nihao, ni3hao3, 你好, rest*, zei*, *zei*, *茶, 英*公司, chinese *文, "to rest", bill -gates
Pinyin words should be entered without spaces, either with or without tone numbers: ni3hao3 or nihao. The character ü can be entered as v instead.
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subset: commoncrawl


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Looking for ATV insurance in Waco?
Beitler Elite Insurance has several ATV insurance companies to choose from.
All-Terrain Vehicles (ATV) are becoming increasingly popular, and come in a variety of different models. Most insurance companies have a different set of rules for providing coverage for ATVs, depending on the vehicle type.
ATV insurance is very similar to motorcycle insurance actually.
All-terrain vehicles are three, four or six-wheeled buggies used off-road. 4×4 insurance has the same basic coverages included in the motorcycle insurance policy, tweaked for the needs of off-road enthusiasts.
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To get started on your quote, call our office or submit your details below to get started online in a matter of seconds.
Either way we'll make the process simple!


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Manuscript of "Breakfast at Tiffany's" up for auction
CONCORD, N.H. Truman Capote's 1958 typed manuscript of "Breakfast at Tiffany's" is rife with the author's handwritten edits most notably changing the femme fatale's name from Connie Gustafson to the now-iconic Holly Golightly.
Its plot built around a young woman who supports herself through trysts with various wealthy lovers was controversial. Harper's Bazaar bought serialization rights for $2,000, then balked at its explicit content and profuse profanity. Esquire magazine purchased it from Harper's and launched it to its 1961 silver screen adaptation starring Audrey Hepburn.
The manuscript is being offered for sale by a New Hampshire auction house and is expected to net at least $250,000 later this month.
- Breakfast at Tiffany's coming to Broadway in 2013
- Almanac: Truman Capote
- "Matrix," "Tiffany's" named to National Film Registry
It is the centerpiece of hundreds of Hollywood-themed items offered by RR Auctions in its online auction April 18-25. Other items include memorabilia autographed by James Dean, Humphrey Bogart, Clark Gable, Carole Lombard, Judy Garland and Lucille Ball. Also offered is an 8 mm film of Marilyn Monroe visiting Army troops in South Korea in February 1954, shot by a lieutenant with the 24th Infantry Division.
"It's obviously quite a treasure, quite a find for us," RR Auctions vice president Bobby Livingston said of the Capote manuscript. He said the source of the manuscript wants to remain anonymous, but linked it to the estate of a "very famous" Madison Avenue autograph collector.
Livingston said Capote made changes throughout the 86-page manuscript, including crossing out every reference to Connie Gustafson and replacing them with Holly Golightly. On the first page of the manuscript he handwrote the title.
"He was about to turn it in (to Random House) and he was inspired to change that name," Livingston said.
Livingston said the auction was not timed to a new Broadway adaption of "Breakfast at Tiffany's" now playing at New York City's Cort Theater, saying that was just "serendipitous."
Capote in creating his Holly Golightly character is said to have found inspiration in his close friendships with designer Gloria Vanderbilt and Oona O'Neill, daughter of playwright Eugene O'Neill.
"Breakfast at Tiffany's" was not Capote's debut. He had received critical acclaim for his novel "Other Voices, Other Rooms," a decade earlier.
But when "Breakfast at Tiffany's" was published, Norman Mailer wrote that he didn't know Capote well but thought of him as "the most perfect writer of my generation. ... I would not have changed two words in `Breakfast at Tiffany's."'
for more features.


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Everyone knows our line of Honda Rancher all-terrain vehicles are legendary for their long life, can-do toughness and Honda reliability. And maybe best of all, with eight models in our lineup, you can pick which model is a perfect match for your needs and your budget, with features like our automatic DCT transmission, swingarm- or Independent Rear Suspension, Electric Power Steering, Electric Shifting, and more. One thing's for sure, though: when you pick a Honda Rancher, you can't make a bad choice.
Important Safety Information: Recommended for riders 16 years of age and older. Honda recommends that all ATV riders take a training course and read their owner's manual thoroughly.
This is not an offer for credit and should be used for estimation purposes only based on the information you provided. You should not base your decision on this estimate alone. Title, registration, tax and other fees, and personal circumstances such as employment status and personal credit history, were not considered in the calculations.
Front - Dual 190 mm discs
Rear - Dual 170 mm discs
Front - 24 x 8-12
Rear - 24 x 10-11
Front - Independent double-wishbone; 7.3 in. of travel
Rear - Independent dual-arm; 8.5 in. of travel
Front rack - 66 lb.
Rear rack - 133 lb.
Avenger Red
Black Forest Green
Solstice Orange
MSRP excludes destination charge. Visit powersports.honda.com to view applicable destination charge amount.
UTILITY ATVs ARE RECOMMENDED FOR RIDERS 16 YEARS AND OLDER. ATVs CAN BE HAZARDOUS TO OPERATE. FOR YOUR SAFETY, BE RESPONSIBLE. READ THE OWNER'S MANUAL. ALWAYS WEAR A HELMET, EYE PROTECTION AND PROTECTIVE CLOTHING. BE CAREFUL ON DIFFICULT TERRAIN. ALL ATV RIDERS SHOULD TAKE A TRAINING COURSE (FREE FOR NEW BUYERS. ASK YOUR DEALER OR CALL ASI AT 800-887-2887). NEVER RIDE AFTER CONSUMING DRUGS OR ALCOHOL, ON PAVED SURFACES, ON PUBLIC ROADS, WITH PASSENGERS, OR AT EXCESSIVE SPEEDS. NO STUNT RIDING. RESPECT THE ENVIRONMENT WHEN RIDING. FourTrax®, Foreman®, Rubicon®, Rancher®, Recon®, Phantom Camo®, Honda Pro Connect™, TraxLok®, and Electric Shift Program® (ESP) are registered trademarks of Honda Motor Co., Ltd. ©2022 American Honda Motor Co., Inc.
Due to continued challenges across supplier networks as well as increasing logistics costs, product pricing, freight charges, specifications, and features are subject to change at any time without prior notice. Please confirm all information with your local dealership.
Images, where available, are presented as reasonable facsimiles of the offered unit and/or manufacturer stock images. Non-standard options or features may be represented. No guarantee of availability or inclusion of displayed options should be inferred; contact the dealer for more details.
Price, if shown and unless otherwise noted, represents the Manufacturer's Suggested Retail Price (MSRP) or dealer unit price and does not include government fees, taxes, dealer vehicle freight/preparation, dealer document preparation charges, labor, installation, or any finance charges (if applicable). MSRP and/or final sales price will vary depending on options or accessories selected; contact dealer for more details.
Images, where available, are presented as reasonable facsimiles of the offered unit and/or manufacturer stock images. Non-standard options or features may be represented. No guarantee of availability or inclusion of displayed options should be inferred; contact dealer for more details.


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Call for Comment on DRAFT REVISED AES70-1-xxxx AES standard for audio applications of networks - Open Control Architecture - Part 1: Framework has been published:
Calls for Comment are open for six weeks from the date of publication.
The comment period has now closed. No comments were received.
This document was developed by a writing group of the Audio Engineering Society Standards Committee (AESSC) and has been prepared for comment according to AES policies and procedures. It has been brought to the attention of International Electrotechnical Commission Technical Committee 100. Existing international standards relating to the subject of this document were used and referenced throughout its development.
Address comments by E-mail to the AESSC Secretariat at standards-at-aes.org, or by mail to the AESSC Secretariat, PO Box 731, Lake Oswego OR 97034, US. E-mail is preferred. Only comments so addressed will be considered. Comments that suggest changes must include proposed wording. Comments must be restricted to this document only. Send comments to other documents separately.
This document will be approved by the AES after any adverse comment received within six weeks of the publication of this call on www.aes.org/standards has been resolved. All comments will be published on the Web site.
Persons unable to obtain this document from the Web site may request a copy from the secretariat at
Audio Engineering Society Standards Committee
Draft Comments Dept.
PO Box 731
Lake Oswego OR 97034
Because this document is a draft and is subject to change, no portion of it shall be quoted in any publication without the written permission of the AES, and all published references to it must include a prominent warning that the draft will be changed and must not be used as a standard.


text:
Use Discount Code HOLIDAY2023 for 25% Off Wall Art and Desk Diaries!
Boundary: Bleed area may not be visible.
Click and drag to re-position the image, if desired.
by Pascal Campion
This product is currently out of stock.
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The image is near the edges of the product but doesn't cover the entire product. Some of the background color may appear around the outside edges of the image.
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Product Details
Wear your favorite New Yorker cartoon or cover on a cloth face mask. Made from 100% polyester. Each mask includes two woven elastic loops with adjustable grommets for a comfortable fit. This cloth mask is designed to cover your nose and mouth for everyday use.
The printed area of the mask is approximately 7" wide by 5" tall.
IMPORTANT: This cloth face mask is not a surgical or medical face mask. This cloth face mask should not be used (1) in a medical or clinical setting where the infection risk level is high; (2) for antimicrobial or antiviral protection; (3) as a respiratory protective device, or (4) for high risk aerosol-generating procedures. We make no warranties, either express or implied, that wearing this face mask prevents infection or the transmission of viruses or diseases.
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Publication: New Yorker... more
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Publication: New Yorker
Image Type: Cover
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Description: Worker making a delivery at night at a building on a deserted city street during the coronavirus pandemic.
Caption: Lifeline


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Children's-Bike Accessories
Tool-less, 3-position training wheel installation/removal system. - Closed-cell foam tires - Tubular steel arms - Compatible with 2013-present Hotrock 20-inch models only
Designed to mount on most bicycles measuring 12 to 20 inches. Fits 28.6mm or smaller chainstays and includes a plastic frame protector (should fit most oversized chainstays) Complete kit includes two wheels and all hardware for installation, as well as a plastic frame protector (may need to be removed for some oversized chainstays)
Now kids can add a fun and personal touch to bikes with the Dimension Bicycle Streamers. - Sold as a pair
Wald's 742 training wheels feature three slots on the brace arm allowing this wheel set to mount on most single speed bicycles with 16- to 26-inch wheels. The brace arms are designed to fit rear frames tubes up to .75 inches in diameter. This model is intended for use by riders weighing up to 125 pounds. - The Wald Training Wheels fit 16- to 26-inch bicycles. - The Wald Training Wheels support riders up to 125 pounds.
Add some flair and fun to kids' bikes with MSW Squeeze Horns. - Fits standard 22-26mm diameter handlebars - Approximately 3" wide
Training handles offer a great way to learn to balance on two wheels. Coaches can assist with gentle corrections until the rider gains confidence. Three points of contact give a firm, secure attachment to the bike.
Training handles offer a great way to learn to balance on two wheels. Coaches can assist with gentle corrections until the rider gains confidence. -Assists with balance training
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Use this guide to replace a broken left hinge.
Выберете то, что вам нужно
Use a coin or spudger to rotate the battery-locking screw 90 degrees clockwise.
I used this guide plus the Thermal Paste guide to resolve my MacBook RRS (Random Restart Syndrome) issue. My MacBook would randomly restart after the fan kicked into high speed. When I removed the heatsink I discovered an an irregular patch completely free of thermal compound of about 15-20% of the area on one of the processors. I removed and re-applied the thermal paste. I ran a memory test utility overnight that previously caused a restart after a couple of hours, and the probelm seems to be solved. TIme will tell.
This guide was seriously helpful, so thanks for putting this together. I found a thick ribbon of dust/muck whatever between the fan outlet and the exhaust port that was almost as dense as felt. My fan must have been fighting like crazy trying to pass air through that blockage, which explains the high temps and excessive fan noise. Wish I'd done this sooner...
Thanks again!
Just R&R'ed the fan in my black MacBook Core 2 Duo tonight. Took me 30 minutes tops and I was taking my time. These instructions are SPOT ON! Great job ifixit.com! Two thumbs up!
Follow the instructions exactly as you see and have a piece of paper taped to the table next to you that you can outline all the screws you took out so you know where they go back in. I expected this to be a LOT harder, but it was one of the simplest repairs I've ever done to ANY computer!
Piece of cake--or should I say gum. If you don't have a magnetized screwdriver, load up a stick of gum and chomp on it until it's needed then use a bit to retain screw on the driver. And if you should tear the black tape, or if the silver tape won't stick any more, just bubblegum it together. The instructions were clear and correct, which made for a very simple repair.
Somehow, now my isight camera doesn't work and the light is always on. Cannot figure out what I did wrong.
Somehow the plastic disc with the slot for a coin got dislodged from the case, and I can't seem to get it open now. Any tips/links on how to open this without the aid of the plastic disc?
i broke my disc off as well. I used two toothpicks to rotate the thing. hi tech.
My computer will not charge when plugged in. It will stay on as ling as the plug is in the wall however if the power source gets disconnected it will shut down immediately. I removed the battery and put it back in that did not help. It worked and charged fine 2 days ago. I have a backpack with a laptop storage area. I went to hang the backpack up and it fell and ever since the battery is not functioning. Is there some fix I can try or is my only solution to replace it? I would have thought that dropping it would affect more than the battery?
Many of the tiny screws in this project were quite sticky. I found some blue Loctite residue that must have been when the Apple repair shop worked on the laptop years ago. I have found that it is important to hold the correct driver firmly down in the screw and then just tweak the driver in short bursts to loosen it before unscrewing it with a smooth turn.
Lift the battery out of the computer.
I just replaced the battery as indicated (with a iFixit part), but the computer says there is no battery connected, even after letting the power plug in for more than one hour.
I think I found the way to have the new battery to charge!!!!!
See: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jRYIMDQx....
Essentially, you have to follow a very precise order: 1/shut down the computer, 2/take off the magsafe connector, 3/remove the old battery, 4/put back the magsafe connector, 5/put the new battery, 6/power on, each time leaving a few seconds in between.
Unscrew the three evenly-spaced Phillips screws from along the rear wall of the battery compartment.
Lay the screws out in a "timeline" like a circle, Then when you reassemble just start from the end of the "timeline"
The screws have to unscrewing positions, first they unscrew from the whole body BUT if you move the lid without entirely removing the screws, they will remain attached to the lid. This I find much more recomendable!
Grasp the right end of the L-shaped memory cover, then pull it towards you so it clears the battery compartment opening.
Lift the memory cover up and out of the computer.
Remove the following 3 screws:
One 11 mm Phillips#00 in the middle of the lower case. (Head: 5mm dia. x .75mm thick)
Two 14.5 mm Phillips #00 (Head: 5mm dia. x .75mm thick)
Цитата от(из) ryan64:
I couldn't get the top two 11mm screws to come out, even with a magnetized driver. When I tried to keep unscrewing them, they clicked like they were spring mounted, and I didn't have any trouble leaving them in and continuing on.
I use a strong magnet to pull the screws out of their socket.
You need to replace the shorter middle screw first, otherwise it won't tighten later since it won't quite reach the bottom.
for me this was the hardest part especially the two 14.5mm that dint want to come out. keep turning the screw and slightly pressing the case down, once the screw is a little use try using finger, screw and a non metallic point to try to push them out. they arent tight but they are very hard to unscrew i almost gave up, but believe me they come out with patience
Remove the following 3 screws from the rear wall of the battery compartment:
One 3 mm Phillips #0. (Head: 2.75 mm. dia.)
Two 4 mm Phillips #0 on the either side. (Head: 2.75mm dia.)
On this step, I encountered a problem. The middle screw was screwed in very very tightly. As a result, I ended up stripping the screw despite being very careful. I tried to use a wire cutter to remove the screw, but that did not work. I actually ended up using the wirecutter to cut the bracket off, leaving the screw screwed in. This did not affect anything. I am typing off of my replace macbook top case right now.
The point is, BE CAREFUL! but if something does go wrong, don't fret. There are solutions.
On a Macbook I just tore down, I found that in this step, the 4mm screw was on the left, not the right. I thought maybe someone else had it apart before and accidentally switched them so in staying true to these instructions I tried to reassemble with the 4mm screw on the right. I found it would not go all the way in. I ended up putting it back together with the 2-3mm screws on the right and the 1-4mm screw on the left.
I didn't look closely at these screws when I took it apart, but when I went to put it back together (two weeks later) I found I had two longer (4mm?) screws, and one short one. So I put the longer ones in the two end spots, the short one in the middle; they all seemed to go in okay. (Maybe the screws got changed around the last time the cracked top case was replaced, when the MB was in the Apple shop under warranty last year.)
Me too. I had two longer 4mm screws here, and one 3mm screw. And I didn't pay attention to what holes each screw came out of. I put them back in a random order and it seems fine.
Thomas -
My early 2008 MacBook was the same. 2 x 4mm in the outer and 1 x 3mm in the centre.
Ernie K -
You need to replace the shorter middle screw first, otherwise it won't tighten later.
I needed a tweezers here. These screws are tiny!
If you lose one you may have to remove the RAM (by pulling the appropriate lever) and gently slide out the screw.
oh thanks I thought the screw was lost forever
To confirm what HandyMac and colmcostelloe found, some MacBooks have one 3mm and two 4mm screws in the rear wall of the battery compartment. On the one I worked on, the shorter 3mm screw came from the middle hole.
Цитата от(из) BeatJunkie:
To confirm what HandyMac and colmcostelloe found, some MacBooks have one 3mm and two 4mm screws in the rear wall of the battery compartment. On the one I worked on, the shorter 3mm screw came from the middle hole.
Thanks Beat Junkie, this was the situation with my Mac 2.13ghz Mid 2009 that I was putting back together. Thanks for the confirmation! (For the 6th step)
For me (A1181), there were two shorter screws and one longer. The longer went on the left (a shorter screw wouldn't catch). (Not the middle that is currently in the instruction. But that could be model difference.) The middle screw started to strip the head but using a slightly larger phillips allowed me to get it out.
In my late 2006 macbook the central screw was longer than the side screws..
Mine was A1181 model, Core 2 Duo 2.16 GHz. Of course I did not keep track of the screws and ended up with two shorter ones and one longer. Replaced them with the longer one to the right of the three. Got it done with a Wiha PH00 screwdriver. Had better hold than the bit from the precision screwdriver kit.
me too. Got it done with a iFixIt PH00 screwdriver.
Yeah, same for me, #00 worked; #0 suggested in the guide was too big. I didn't even try #000. For 2.2GHz A1181. My screw config matched the guide, 3mm in middle, 4mm on the sides.
Remove the two Phillips screws from either side of the right wall of the battery compartment (not the ones closest to the battery connector).
Two 6.25 mm Phillips #000. (Head: 4 mm. dia. x .5mm thick)
The steps do not tell you what length screw that is needed to be here. What I can tell you that is the screw needs to be 5mm or 6mm, NOT 7.5 or 8mm or 9mm.
For black 2.2GHz A1181, I used PH #000 as suggested by guide. My screws are both 6mm.
Remove the four indicated Phillips screws from the front wall of the battery compartment. When working from the left, remove the 2nd, 4th, 7th and 9th screws.
Four 3.25 mm Phillips #000. (Head: 4 mm. dia. x 4mm thick)
It's recommended to use a PH00 screwdriver instead of the PH000.
The PH000 is too small and you can damage the screwheads.
Yeah, I found PH #00 better too. (For black 2.2Ghz A1181.)
Is there a way I can cut the bracket off? I completely stripped one of the screws?
I've done this often enough that I marked the screws to remove with red marker.
Remove the following 4 screws from the back of the computer:
Two 11 mm Phillips #00, with Shank (2.2mm dia. x 2 mm len.) (Head: 3.2 mm. dia. x .5mm thick)
Two 7.25 mm Phillips #00, with Shank (2mm dia. x 3.75 mm len.) (Head: 3.2 mm. dia. x .5mm thick)
I cannot get the two outer screws out for the life of me- and afraid of stripping them. Already see I'm doing some damage. Help? What can I do?
Are you sure you have a proper screwdriver? From my experience you really need to use the correct size and not just something that seems to fit.
Olivia, you can screw back the longer screws that go on the inside. In the photo marked with orange. Then open and close the lid of the MacBook a few times. This will fit the 4 screws more properly in the steel inner-frame and they can come a little bit loose.
Close the lid again. Leave the inner screws untouched and begin with the outer screws (marked with red) with indeed a perfect matching screwdriver head (with a big and long grip for your hand). This worked for me perfectly without damage. Success!
Remove the two Phillips screws from the optical drive (right) side of the computer:
Two 5.2 mm Phillips #00, with shank (2.3mm dia. x 3.25 mm len.) (Head: 3.2 mm. dia. x .5mm thick)
The screw farthest from the optical drive would not come out, all other screws came out fine with my screw driver and the screw looks ok, any tips on how to get the screw out?
With some of the screws that can happen. I had it too. This did it for the MacBook I was repairing: 1. Open the MacBook. Then press firm but gentle on the upper case with your hand or fingers while trying to loosen the screw with your screwdriver. 2. I used a different screwdriver from the same size diameter but with a much larger hand-grip. Success!
Use a plastic opening tool, an expired plastic credit, or a similarly-thick card to pry up on the upper case, starting in the upper-left corner and working around to the front of the computer.
As is reported above, there a 4 friction tabs that connect to the keyboard. If they do not stay in place and stick to the keyboard, the keyboard will not go back on. Just remove them and put them in the clips, with the solid clip wall to the outside of the unit, and put the keyboard back on. Do this before reconnecting the keyboard.
The front left had an annoying little metal strip between the outside of the case and the tab. It's very easily bent, so the tab was caught on it. I spent a good deal of time trying to push and pull various things (and even just yank the @$!^ thing off), but eventually I found that if you undo the two screws you are told not to in step 7, the battery connector can be pulled up and out, leaving enough horizontal room to pull out the metal strip (with a little bit of coercion). I left it out when I put everything back together.
Thanks for the tip. Saved me!
Joe -
Because this step requires some force, make sure to double check that you got all your screws out. I finally got my gumption up to apply the necessary force required to pull up the upper case, and after 5 minutes of pulling, I look and see that the reason it wasn't coming up because I missed one screw. Ugh.
Also, before you just shove your hands under the upper case, prying about, think twice: I cut my finger pretty bad on a sharp piece of metal.
When reassembling, take some care to align the tabs on the right hand side next to the optical drive. Rock and slide these tabs into position. Then work from right to left, as the rest of the case is quite easy to put back together.
I took my mac apart yesterday to clean out the trackpad properly and after getting some 'help' from my grandfather (he lost 2 screws and snapped off a bit of the uppercase but i didn't have the heart to ask him to leave it alone) i tried putting the uppercase back on. it fits perfectly but the middle section closest to the screen appears slightly raised and when i go to screw in the four screws on the exterior of the laptop i can't because the hole is not at all aligned (and two of those four screws are very long). anyone know why this might be? can it be fixed/is it a common problem?
If the upper case sticks above the optical drive, don't pull straight up, but up and to the left at the same time.
Wow, pulling both up and to the left made all the difference for me, to unstick the keyboard around the optical drive.
I think it is a mistake to separate the keyboard from the clips at the right side (above the optical drive) at all! Instead, after freeing the other three sides, just slide the keyboard slightly to the left, and leave the clips attached to the keyboard. For reassembly, just put the keyboard in its approximate place and slide it to the right to get those clips into position. Be sure the keyboard is really snug against the machine's case. Then press the other three edges of the keyboard down.
jeh -
On the right side above the optical drive there are little plastic braces that latch the upper case to the main body. This is the reason why the upper case might stick here. If the above step is not working, also try to gently push the upper case sideways away from the optical drive after freeing all other sides. When reassembling make sure the braces are in their slots of the main body and not attached to the upper case. If you cannot fit the upper case evenly over the optical drive, that's probably why. In this case carefully remove them and slide them back into their slots before lowering the upper case.
this guide was awesome. this step was easy for the broken macbook i salvaged and noticed because i got a factory replacement keyboard quite recently on my macbook in use, the 4 clips above the optical drive were TIGHT - it took quite a bit of pulling up before it came loose!
While holding up the upper case, pull up the black tab on the connector end of the silver ribbon cable away from the connector's socket on the logic board.
I tried to remove the blacktab from the logic board, however, the black tab tore apart. The logic board is okay but the keyboard connector is torn. It has some silver wires passing through a whit plastic housing. It is the first generation of MacBook Core Duo. Do you think it can be repaired?
After a sucessful install of the keyboard, the select (mouse buttun equivalent) was found to not operate consistently. I called support and they are shipping a new one out to me. THIS is why I buy from ifixit - sure I can get a part for less elsewhere - but I would not get the service I get with ifixit - THANKS guys!!!
Цитата от(из) carlos:
not sure if this is the place to ask but my mac. doesn't start properly now it turns on and the little light on the right side turns on but keyboard leds don't and display doesn't either any ideas please?
Did you ever find an answer for this question? My computer is doing the same thing. Thanks.
Цитата от(из) E Chambliss:
Did you ever find an answer for this question? My computer is doing the same thing. Thanks.
no i never did couldn't get help it blows to hear someone else had the same problem...im using a windows(yuk) but im getting a new mac next paycheck. if you figure it out let me know so i can fix my other one and maybe give it to my parents
Цитата от(из) carlos:
no i never did couldn't get help it blows to hear someone else had the same problem...im using a windows(yuk) but im getting a new mac next paycheck. if you figure it out let me know so i can fix my other one and maybe give it to my parents
Hello, I'm following this procedure because my MacBook isn't turning on due to a failure in the MagSafe DC In board, it was not charging the battery and therefore no power going in. The case was broken duirng warranty and also the MagSafe power adapter was replaced. Now it is failing again. This is an old late 2006 MacBook. Does your Mac powers on, do you hear the chime sound? or you are stuck with a hardware failure?
Цитата от(из) Francisco:
Hello, I'm following this procedure because my MacBook isn't turning on due to a failure in the MagSafe DC In board, it was not charging the battery and therefore no power going in. The case was broken duirng warranty and also the MagSafe power adapter was replaced. Now it is failing again. This is an old late 2006 MacBook. Does your Mac powers on, do you hear the chime sound? or you are stuck with a hardware failure?
my MacBook charges the battery and powers on i dont hear a chime and it turns on but never starts
Цитата от(из) spi:
When changing the topcase remember to change the sticker with the serial also! This might be important when further service or bigger repairs by apples service are needed. The serial also helps you with identifying your MacBook!
How do you do it? I can't get it out
Superb guide thank you guys
This takes some nerves if there is no tab, but be confident and just prise the connector straight up.
Clips removal: its hard with finger to pull. It's better and easy off with a pry tool (I used a flat twiser) to pry from the bottom gently for each clips. It was so smooth and easy.
After I clean everything nice… put the cable back and DO NOT TURN ON. What the !&&* happens!? Ideias my friends? :(
Sorry my bad english!
Getting the upper-case/keyboard off was a bit nerve-wracking. Just work away at it carefully, bit by bit.
A small torch (flashlight for our American friends) was handy to see what was happening underneath the upper-case. Otherwise too dark.
I used a photographic lens-cleaning blower (with the rubber squeeze bulb, just the blower, no brush) to get away the dust. Probably not as effective as canned air, but it worked well enough. I'd recommend avoiding touching anything with the tip of the blower. Keep it a few mm away.
After removing the keyboard I noticed that the side clips were not attached to the body but rather to the keyboard still. Easily removed but something to note.
Grasp the white plastic tab attached to the hard drive and pull it to the left, removing the hard drive from the computer.
Note, if you've already installed an optical/SATA adapter, and you're doing this just to replace the SATA drive, then you might be able to skip almost all of the following steps. It seems that for the sort of adapter described in this guide (with the drive secured by a plastic positioner), you should be able to leave pretty much everything in place, and swap out the SATA drive (though you might need to move the Bluetooth antenna holder out of the way).
Unfortunately for me, mine is a different kind of adapter, with the drive secured by screws from the underside, so I still had to go through almost all the steps to get the adapter out. I can't even remember where I got the adapter. I think it was probably from iFixit, but it might have been a different, earlier version.
Backstory is that I put an SSD in the adapter a few years back to replace a dead optical drive. And it worked with the extra drive, but it seemed to function slowly, at optical-drive rather than SSD speed. Recently, the machine stopped detecting the extra hard-drive. I don't know why. My guess is that in an upgrade something changed in how the kernel detects devices, and it got confused by an SSD being where it expected an optical drive. (I'm running Debian GNU/Linux, it being the only way I can run up-to-date software on a machine no longer supported by Apple, and I'm a Free Software enthusiast anyway.) Your mileage may vary… Because the SATA drive wasn't being detected, and I needed access to the data on it, I had no choice for the time being but to take out the SSD and go back to a single-drive machine. The main drive is SSD, and I've upgrade to the max 6GB RAM, so it's still a pretty useful machine.
I'm planning to put the adapter back in, just in case the void would be bad for cooling air-flow.
Remove the two Phillips screws from the side of the optical drive.
Two 3.25 mm Phillips #000 (head: 4 mm. dia. x .3 mm thick)
!! I can't remove the left screw, and ended up "screwing" it.. it's a round hole now. What should I do?
wkurosawa: The optical drive will stay put properly if the screw on the left isn't installed.
Disconnect the orange optical drive ribbon cable connector from the logic board by prying it straight up using either a finger or a spudger.
Disconnect the newly revealed display data cable's plug from the logic board by pulling it upward using its black pull-tab.
The display cable was difficult to disconnect for me. I had to pull firmly and use the spudger at the same time to finally pop it off.
I pulled firmly on the tab, while rocking back and forth slightly.
Disconnect the newly-revealed hard drive cable's plug from the logic board by pulling it upward using its black tab.
When reconnecting the Hard Drive Cable to the logic board (Step 17) I ran the HD cable on top of the microphone wire, and the other wire that runs parallel to it, when I should have run the HD cable underneath those two wires. This resulted in the hard drive not being connected on startup, and a lengthy troubleshooting session to figure this out. So save some time and install this underneath the two wires, just like you found it when taking it apart!
Peel up the foil tape between the fan and the optical drive. Lift the foil tape from the fan side, leaving it attached to the optical drive.
During reassembly, be sure to route the cables beneath the tape before reattaching it.
I was gently pulling up the tape with a spudger, but the tape snapped clean in half right at the edge of the optical drive. I'm really pretty surprised because I see no reason why it would have done that.
Pull up the display data cable from along the edge of the optical drive to reveal a silver Phillips screw.
Remove the 2 mm Phillips #00 screw securing the rear corner of the optical drive.
The silver-jacketed Bluetooth cable may be covering the screw. If so, carefully push it aside. You may need to remove the screw holding the ground shield lugs for the two nearby cables before you can move the Bluetooth cable aside sufficiently. This screw is 7mm in earlier models, and may be 4.2mm in Santa Rosa/Penryn and 2009 models.
STEP 20 - IMPORTANT= This screw secures a mounting bracket on the optical drive. This bracket's eyelets are slotted. The right side of the bracket has a tab inserted in the bottom case. After removing the screw, use the spudger to slide the bracket to the left. This disengages the tab from the right side of the case, thus allowing the optical drive to be lifted out in step 23.
As an addition to xtian's note, the bracket that you need to slide right (and a spudger is very useful here) it may be because the rear right (as in the picture) of the optical drive needs to be GENTLY pushed down as the bracket end needs to slot into a hole on the right hand side of the case.
Ernie K -
After removing the screw gently push the metal tong (which the screw was holding) towards the fan. This will unlock the drive mount.
I found it helpful to remove the screw sitting to the lower left of the speaker.
There is only one screw holding the optical drive down, the one circled in red. the one in orange is for the ground loop for the microphone and right speaker cable. Also, a spudger makes quick work of moving the cables out of the way to get to the screw for easy removal/replacement.
As I tried to refit the optical drive, the plastic mount for the brass threaded socket that receives the screw crumbled like an old tooth. Only thing for it was to ditch the plastic and superglue the brass socket into place on the case - seems to have worked. (People who design parts/fixings that involve strong materials held in place by weaker ones should be imprisoned). I also had to remove the sliding bracket on the drive and cut 2/3mm off the right hand end to get the screw hole to align with the brass socket, also seems not to have caused any harm. Never thought I would find myself lashing out with the superglue and wielding a hacksaw inside a laptop...empowered!
Lift the Bluetooth antenna board from the front edge of the optical drive.
Deroute the hard drive cable from under the clips along the near side of the optical drive.
Lift the side of the optical drive closest to you, then slide the drive towards you, and up and out of the computer.
First, slide its side nearest to the rear of the Macbook under the edge of the rear frame to the left of the hinge, while also sliding the optical drive's mounting tab at its upper left corner under the cables at this location.
Lower the drive partially into the lower housing. Keep the hard drive cable away from the optical drive bay.
Before dropping the drive fully in place, use a spudger to push forward (towards the front of the drive) on the screw hole in the drive's mounting tab.
Push forward the slider, which runs along the far side of the drive, to insert the end of this slider into a small channel in the lower case's frame. This helps hold the drive in place.
On the the optical drive there is a sliding-bar (secured by two screws, which fixes the drive in the right edge of the Alu-frame) that has to be shifted to the left when taking the drive off. Especially, before putting the optical drive back to the computer, make sure that the the sliding bar is in its leftward position in order not to block the insertion of the drive. Then shift the bar gently to the right thereby fixing the drive's position.
Thanks! Even so, I had to get the drive aligned just right, so that the sliding bar could mate with the matching slot in the case.
For original Macbook Core Duo and Core 2 Duo models, remove these 3 screws:
Two 3 mm Phillips near the right speaker.
One 6 mm Phillips threaded through a hole in a plastic finger above the subwoofer.
For Santa Rosa/Penryn and 2009 models, which don't have a c-channel:
Remove only the single 3 mm Phillips screw from the right speaker, and skip step 26.
Lift the right speaker out of its housing and set it to the side.
Using a spudger, gently pry up the white plastic slot and slide the metal c-channel to the right and away from the display.
Use a spudger to carefully disconnect the microphone cable from the logic board. You'll want to work from side to side, and slowly wiggle the plug back and out of its socket.
Lift up on the black right speaker cable with one hand, and deroute the microphone cable from the silver metal clip just above the right RAM slot.
I find it very strange that it's omitted, but to deroute the microphone cable, you will have to unscrew the cable right next to (above) it. At least, I had to. It's not hard, but you can't deroute the microphone cable without derouting the other cable.
Make sure to remember that this screw is removed when reassembling!
If you didn't remove the ground lug retaining screw in step 20 above, remove it now. It's a 7mm (may be 4mm or 3mm in Santa Rosa/Penryn and 2009 models) Phillips screw securing the ground lugs on the right speaker cable and microphone cable to the metal frame.
Put close attention to how the cables are laid out to get the same staking order, when reassembling I did not care about the order and as a result they were not as "Flat" as before and made the DVD drive insertion a bit more hard as it did not sit as deep as it should, so I had to re arrange the cables and once they were right the DVD drive sat perfectly. I would suggest taking a photo before re-routing them.
For the second time that I changed an inverter I skipped to disconnect the microphone cable (steps 27 to 30) because it's really hard to wiggle the connector out of its socket and it looks very fragile.
By doing this you can not move the display assembly far from the case BUT it's not a problem for the next steps (front bezel and clutch cover).
I won time and did not have to replace display and microphone cables what is not easy because of the lack of place and if the SuperDrive is compressed it can block CDs.
Not sure if that will help...
Deroute the microphone cable and the black display data cable from the tabs at the bottom of the subwoofer.
Remove the single 3 mm Phillips screw securing the ground lug in the display data cable located just above the Bluetooth board. This screw may also be securing a ground lug in the speaker cable.
The ground screw also holds down a ground loop that is part of the speaker cable. The two loops may be stuck together so you need to carefully separate them.
Disconnect the antenna cables from the Airport card:
If you have an original MacBook Core Duo or Core 2 Duo model, see the first picture, which shows that there are three antenna cables.
If you have a MacBook Core 2 Duo Santa Rosa/Penryn or 2009 model, there are only two antenna cables, and the plug/socket for the black inverter cable is in a different location. There may be a square foam piece over the plug/socket for the inverter board connector.
Disconnect the inverter cable from its socket by inserting a spudger between the right or left ends of the plug and the socket, and prying gently vertically. Do NOT pry up on the socket--you must pull up on the plug alone, vertically out of the socket. Do not pull in the direction of the cable wires or you will tear the socket off the logic board.
For the MacBook Core 2 Duo Santa Rosa/Penryn: the inverter cable is a bit tricky. I was fooled into thinking that there were pins which went INTO the inverter cable. Because of this, I was afraid of lifting up on the cable (off the board), but this is what you actually must do to separate them.
For clarification, here's a pic (low-res, sorry) of the inverter cable disconnected from it's on-board plug: http://lh4.ggpht.com/_l0f6yKkaxDU/S0FOHS...
Can I get a replacement connecter that the inverter cable connects to and solder it on? I broke mine taking to of how it says in the guide
i also broke mine off the motherboard on accident. it appears to be a fairly clean break. is there anyone who has had luck soldering them back on?
michael -
About disconnecting the inverter cable. I had more luck wedging the pointed end of spludger between the PCB near the cables and the shoulder of the connector nearest the display. I then pushed the pointed end of the spludger away from the display and the connector popped up off the socket. when trying to use the spludger on the sides of the socket, i deformed the plastic edges of the socket.
This worked well for me too.
The inverter cable was fine if a little fiddly, but I can't get the antenna cables back on at all - anyone got any ideas? Even with bright lights and magnifiers I can't see why they won't go back in. (And I don't know why ifixit thinks I'm called facebook -- Sam)
... and of course as soon as I ask for help I find the answer. Don't try to push the plug vertically into the socket on the Airport board, start it at an angle with the cable running up and away from you towards the screen, then rock it back horizontal and it just clicks into place. -- Sam
facebook -
A method to remove the inverter cable connector that just worked great for me: I hooked a dental pick underneath the connector at the cable side (display side) and picked in right up out of the socket. I wiggled it a little first to make sure that I only had the connector hooked.
After destroying a similar connector on a fan replacement with a dental pick, I've decided to withdraw my recommendation to use one. Best to use the flat end of the smaller spudger and pry the connector out from under the wire (screen) side, very slowly, working from side to side.
For original Macbook Core Duo and Core 2 Duo models, see first picture and remove the following 2 screws from the right hinge mount:
One 6 mm Phillips on the left side of the hinge mount.
One 10 mm Phillips on the right side of the hinge mount.
For Santa Rosa/Penryn and 2009 models, see second picture and remove the following 3 screws from the right hinge mount:
One 3 mm smalller diameter Phillips on the far left.
One 5.2 mm larger diameter, 4.2 mm head Phillips in the middle.
One 10 mm larger diameter, 4.2mm head Phillips from the far right.
Before removing the right hinge mount, take care to see how its pieces fit together, including the small white plastic piece. Knowing how the mount pieces fit together will help with reassembly. Lift the right hinge mount with the small white plastic piece out of the computer.
Hold the display with one hand while removing the following 3 screws from the left hinge mount:
One 7.2 mm smaller diameter Phillips from the right side.
One 5.2 mm larger diameter Phillips from the middle.
One larger diameter 10 mm Phillips from the left side.
Lift the left hinge mount with white plastic piece out of the computer.
Check that the cables coming out of the right end of the left hinge are not trapped under other cables.
I tried this last night and the screen fell backward, cracking the components of the hinge. Be careful and support the screen here once you unscrew the hinges!
What is that plastic hinge thingie called in step 34. The piece broke and I'd like to replace that.
Can anyone else confirm what I've written below?…
In my macbook, which is the regular (not Santa Rosa/Penryn) model, the longest 10mm screw is the same, but the middle screw and the right screw are both approximately 5mm. However, the middle screw is fatter/wider and the right screw is thinner.
Also, when reassembling, make sure all three screws are easily screwed in before tightening each one. The hinge mount that you're fastening down will wiggle a bit before being fully tightened down, possibly causing the screw holes to not line up!
Grasp the display assembly on either side and lift it up and out of the computer, taking care that the cables attached to the display don't snag on parts in the lower case.
For those wishing to go further into the LCD, the steps are identical to the MB CD, see this repair guide for more:
Use a thin plastic card to release the tabs and their clips holding the front display bezel to the display assembly. There are five tabs along the left side of the display bezel.
When you go to replace the bezel, look at the back side and disconnect any of the little snap-on tabs that may not have stayed in the metal bracket around the LCD. On a white MacBook they were grey, about 4mm x 8mm. They work best if you put them into the metal frame separate from the bezel and then snap the bezel into them.
The best way to remove them seemed to be by placing my thumb over one edge (so they didn't fly off) and prying with a thin, flat screwdriver flat against the bezel tab.
Hello I've seen a video on Youtube where the guy skipped all the previous steps and got to the inverter without taking the screen off. Seems like it saves a lot of time and potential problems, since I have never done anything like this. Does anyone recommend doing it? I see it's more accessible to just try to get to the inverter without taking the screen off first.
Continue to free the tabs along the the top edge of the display assembly.
Next, free the five tabs securing the display bezel on the right side.
Lift up the front display bezel from the top and use your plastic card to free the tabs along the bottom edge of the display bezel.
After freeing all holding tabs, lift the front display bezel away from the display assembly.
A note for anyone panicking because they can't get their front bezel back on:
It is common for the grey clips holding the bezel to the display to come up along with the bezel. If you have ANY grey clips attached to the back of your bezel, in order to replace the bezel you need to first remove the clips from the bezel and reinsert them into the holes in the display panel manually first! Once all of these clips are back in place, the bezel can be reattached.
These clips are very fragile and if you are having this problem odds are you have already severely bent some of them. Check the tiny plastic clasps and if they are squashed down, gently pry them back up with your fingernail. Again these grey clips are very fragile, so use care in reattaching them.
This was a very helpful tip. I made the mistake at first when reading your note, thinking that the gray clips were supposed to be on the bezel, not the display, but quickly corrected that.
For anyone confused, the bezel is the thin plastic part surrounded the display, and the display of course houses the LCD.
Another note:
The easiest way to remove the clips from the bezel is from the side and pry up. To reattach them to the display, put one end of the clip in first, and then use tweezers to poke in the other end of the clip.
Цитата от(из) WillyDavidK:
A note for anyone panicking because they can't get their front bezel back on:
It is common for the grey clips holding the bezel to the display to come up along with the bezel. If you have ANY grey clips attached to the back of your bezel, in order to replace the bezel you need to first remove the clips from the bezel and reinsert them into the holes in the display panel manually first! Once all of these clips are back in place, the bezel can be reattached.
These clips are very fragile and if you are having this problem odds are you have already severely bent some of them. Check the tiny plastic clasps and if they are squashed down, gently pry them back up with your fingernail. Again these grey clips are very fragile, so use care in reattaching them.
Use a metal spudger or another thin tool to carefully pry the gray plastic clips off the tabs molded into the front display bezel. A 0.8mm flat screwdriver may be useful for this step. You may find that it's easier to remove some of these clips by prying up on their long sides.
I found that an easy way to remove the clips from the bezel is to use a plastic knife (knife as in the utensil). Sliding the knife under one of the clip's long sides and prying upwards worked well for me. Thanks MC25 and WillyDavidK for the tips, they worked great!
The plastic clips deform easily, making it difficult to reuse them. The tabs on the back of the bezel that fit into the clips also break off easily.
If any of the tabs or clips are omitted, the bezel will not lie flush nor will it hold the cables that run beneath it in place.
Wear gloves while wrangling with the white bezel—like the white topcase, the matte-finish plastic is very porous and quickly gets grubby.
Insert one end of the retaining clip beneath the edge of its recess cut into the LCD bracket.
Use the edge of a spudger to push the short hook tab on the underside of the other end of the retaining clip into the recess cut into the LCD bracket.
Remove the three 4.2 mm Phillips screws securing the clutch cover.
In this picture you can see that it is a Nikon camera that was used for this guide. :)
While holding the display down with one hand, use your other hand to lift the left end of the clutch cover off the clutch hinge and guide the inverter cable and AirPort cables through the gap in the clutch cover. If the cables snag on the two hooked tabs on the inside end of the clutch cover, free them carefully.
There are little clips at each end of the clutch cover, and I found it helpful first to lift the clutch cover off the metal rod first, and after that squeeze the cables at each end between the clips, so you can lift the cover off.
Lift up the right end of the clutch cover while guiding the display data and iSight cables through the gap and the two hooked tabs at the right end of the clutch cover. If the cables snag on the two hooked tabs, free them carefully.
Lift the clutch cover off of the display assembly.
Pay attention here. I missed the part about pinching the cable and that's exactly what I did. It helps to pull the video and mic cables tight to fit the clutch cover on. I also had to make sure the pink/white cables were up and out of the way. When I did it correctly, it slid in pretty easily. It would help to really look at how things are arranged when you are taking it apart, too. There's some tabs that interconnect with the plastic sliding things you removed in steps 46-47.
Remove the small piece of foam tape stuck down above each of the bezel covers, at the lower left and right corners.
Use a spudger to slide the left bezel cover towards the LCD panel.
Lift the left bezel cover off the display assembly.
Use a spudger to slide the right bezel cover toward the LCD panel.
Lift the right bezel cover off the display assembly.
Lift the inverter out of the display slightly and disconnect the backlight cable from its right side.
Place the inverter back down in its recess.
Remove the single 3.2 mm Phillips screw securing the display data cable to the right clutch hinge.
Move the display data cable out from under the mounting arm of the right clutch hinge.
Remove the twelve 4.2 mm Phillips screws securing the LCD assembly to the rear display bezel.
For the re-install, the cables that run along the sides of the LCD display do not follow the entire length of the display on either side. Both the iSight cable and the Airport antenna cables come away from the sides of the display about 3" from the corner where the hinges are. They move to the outside around the aluminum hinge supports. This is important so the cables do not get pinched and the bezel can snap into place.
Finding the correct route for these cables took some head scratching but the end result worked fine. In hindsight some more detailed pictures of the cable positioning when re-installing would be helpful. I also found that previous Apple authorised repairers had lost screws and removed tape, and charged me £400 for the priviledge.
Keir -
What size are these screws? 4.2x? Is there a link to these that would help please?
To answer Keir's request for more detailed photos of the routing for the cables near the lower left and right corners of the display: click on the photo of the display in this step, which will open a higher-resolution version of the photo in a new tab, where you can click on this photo to magnify it so you can see the cable routing in the corners in larger detail.
Raise the bottom edge of the LCD assembly slightly, then slide it down slightly to free its upper edge from a slight overhang in the rear display bezel.
Lift it out of the rear display bezel, minding any cables that may get caught.
"Make sure to replace the sleep magnet with the shorter edge facing up."
Hi, could you please explain to me how and where exactly should be placed this small magnet? I didn't noticed it when I dismounted and now, from the image, I do not understand where it should be. If you can also explain to me what is it for I'll double thank you …
Remove the piece of tape stuck to the left clutch hinge.
Remove the single 3.2 mm Phillips screw securing the inverter cable to the left clutch hinge.
Remove the three 3.2 mm Phillips screws securing the left clutch hinge to the rear display bezel.
Remove the left clutch hinge from the rear display bezel.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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I am not sure if there is need for removing the right side cables when all you want is to remove the left hinge


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Latest Study Reports Furniture Market risk, opportunity, and market summary and Predictions 2020-2029 has been Added on market.us.
The Furniture Market report is given for the worldwide markets including growth, trends, competitive landscape study, and key regions development status (North America, Europe, Asia Pacific, Latin America, and the Middle East and Africa) 2020-2029. In-depth Analysis presents the possible segments including segmented according to producers, product type Metal Furniture, Plastic Furniture, Wood Furniture, applications Home Application, Office Application, Other, and regions. The Furniture Market report included key features like the current market requirements, the pace of growth, and CAGR in the forecast period.Furniture Market investigating the current market situation, share, revenue, trade, volume, trend, overview, shares, and growth with the help of tables and figures, comprehensive report with figures, graphs, and table of contents to explain the circumstance of Furniture Market and estimation to 2029.
The Furniture market competitive landscape presents details and data information by companies Ashley Furniture Industries, IKEA, Steelcase, Williams-Sonoma, Rooms To Go, TJX, Herman Miller, HNI Corporation, Okamura, 9to5 Seating, Clarin, Creative Wood, Kimball International. The report also provides comprehensive research on growth factors, recent trends, developments, opportunities, and competitive landscape.
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Competitive Analysis serves as the connection between companies and other participants prepared in Furniture market, the report included with a related study of top market players with a business profile of competitive firms, Furniture product modifications, cost structure, production plants and process, revenue details of past years and technologies used by them. The Furniture report also develops on the key policies competitors are using, their SWOT Analysis, and how the competition will react to changes in marketing techniques. This report used the most reliable business analysis techniques to provide the most current information about Furniture market competitors.
The detailed segments and sub-segment of the market are explained below:
Market Segment by Top Manufacturers, this report covers (Industry Sales Revenue, Price, Market Gross Margin, Main Products, etc):
TJX, Rooms To Go, Kimball International, Okamura, Ashley Furniture Industries, 9to5 Seating, Herman Miller, Steelcase, HNI Corporation, IKEA, Creative Wood, Clarin and Williams-Sonoma
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Market Segment by Type, covers:
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Market Segment by Application, covers:
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Global Furniture Market: Regional Segmentation
1.North America (United States, Mexico, and Canada)
2.Europe (France, UK, Germany, Russia, and Italy)
3.Asia-Pacific (Korea, India, China, Japan, and Southeast Asia)
4.South America (Brazil, Argentina, Colombia, etc.)
5.Middle East and Africa (UAE, Egypt, Saudi Arabia, Nigeria, and South Africa)
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overall competitive scenario, including leading market players, their growth objectives,expansions, agreements.
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To analyze and research the Furniture Market by regions, type, companies and applications
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Handy for making wire harnesses or jumpering between headers on PCB's. These premium jumper wires are 3" (75mm) long and come in a 'strip' of 40 (4 pieces of each of ten rainbow colors). They have 0.1" female header contacts on either end and fit cleanly next to each other on standard-pitch 0.1" (2.54mm) header. The best part is they come in a 40-pin ribbon cable. You can always pull the ribbon wires off to make individual jumpers, or keep them together to make neatly organized wire harnesses.
We have these in three handy lengths: 3"/75mm, 6"/160mm and 12"/300mm. If you want the male/male type, we have those too!
For best results, when plugging these in a line, have the sides with the 'silver latch bit' sticking out since that side is a tiny bit wider than 0.1"
Each wire is 28 AWG (7 strands @ 36 AWG)


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- Tag > Making Connections (x)
- Historical Eras > Antebellum America (1816-1860) (x)
- Tag > Other Teaching Activity (x)
- Tag > Harriet Jacobs (x)
- Theme > Slavery and Abolition (x)
- Tag > Interdisciplinary (x)
We found 1 items that match your search
Gender, Sex, and Slavery
In this activity students read about slavery's effect on women from the perspectives of an enslaved woman and a plantation mistress. Then students create a dialogue between the two women.
Item Type: Teaching Activity
Historical Era: Antebellum America (1816-1860)


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Versatile Acrylic Award -- Wall Hanging or Easel Stand
- Categories: Acrylic Awards
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Minimum order value for online checkout: CAD $25 before shipping and taxes. Minimum order QUANTITY restrictions apply to select custom products. Prices are based in part on USD to CAD exchange rate, including; customs, duties and brokerage charges. Prices are subject to change. Jewellery and precious stone prices are subject to change due to market volatility. We proudly return 10% of all sales to Rotary International.


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(854) CAS-3669 is a Local vanity phone number in South Carolina available for sale. These numbers are compatible with all carriers and offer the option to park with us or transfer after purchase.
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Bangalow Auto Centre Bangalow
Bangalow Auto Centre is a general automotive repair shop located in Bangalow, We are a local business servicing the Bangalow & surrounding areas for many years.
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Texas 1994 CLASSIC AUTO License Plate Pair BB27BD, Vintage, Embossed
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Sale Price: US $49.95


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You will need this registration if you intend to keep a lodging house. A lodging house is any building or structure, permanent or otherwise, in which provision is made for lodging or boarding more than six persons for hire or reward, not including the family or the keeper of the house.
This registration includes recreational camp-sites (camp-sites principally used for recreational, sporting, religious, ethnic or educational pursuits or conferences or conventions and where the period of occupancy is not more than 14 consecutive days).
It also includes serviced apartments (accommodation where each sleeping apartment, or group of sleeping apartments in a common occupancy, is provided with its own sanitary conveniences and may have its own cooking facilities) and short term hostels (accommodation where the period of occupancy is not more than 14 consecutive days and includes a youth hostel or backpacker hostel).
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Added: 18.05.2011
2 of 2:
Added: 18.05.2011
More from Prof. Busby:
–Prof. Chris Busby On RT: 'Situation At Fukushima Out Of Control' – 'There Have Been Nuclear Explosions' – 'Ongoing Nuclear Reaction Taking Place NOW'"
– Dr. Chris Busby: Fukushima (MOX) Reactor No. 3 Blast Was A Nuclear Explosion – Can't Seal A Fissioning Reactor – Crisis Will Not Be Over Within 9 Months – Uranium And Plutonium Detected In Hawaii
– Dr. Chris Busby on RT: 400,000 To Develop Cancer In 200 Km Radius Of Fukushima
– Dr. Chris Busby: Fukushima Now 72,000 Times Hiroshima Radiation
There are no safe levels of radiation:
– Fairewinds' Founder Maggie Gundersen Interviews Environmental Scientist Marco Kaltofen: Radiation In Food Is Going To Be A Nationwide Problem In The US!
– 'Fukushima: Gross Miscarriage Of Radiation Science' – Childrens Cancer Risk From Radiation Is 10 To 100 Times Higher For The Same Exposure To Adults
– Physicians For Social Responsibility Press Conference (04/26/2011): Chernobyl, Fukushima And Nuclear Power – Disturbing Facts!
– Dr. Helen Caldicott On The Japan Nuclear Disaster – The Truth MSM Won't Tell You! (Video)
– Dr. Steven Wing And Chief Nuclear Engineer Arnie Gundersen Discuss Global Radiation Exposure and Consequences: There Is No Safe Dose of Radiation
– UC Santa Cruz Nuclear Expert Daniel Hirsch: 'Every Amount of Radiation Exposure Increases Your Risk of Cancer.' 'There Is No Safe Level of Radiation.'
– Dr. Helen Caldicott: How Nuclear Apologists Mislead The World Over Radiation
– Dr. Brian Moench: There Is No 'Safe' Exposure To Radiation
– Dr. Peter Karamoskos: Don't Be Fooled By A Never-Ending Cabal Of Paid Industry Scientific "Consultants' – Radiation Is Bad And Causes Cancer
– Are There Safe Levels of Radiation? How Much Radiation Is Safe? (Must-read!!!!!)
Dr. Helen Caldicott (Co-founder of Physicians for Social Responsibility):
– The Propaganda From The Government And The Nuclear Industry About Low-Level Radiation Is Absolute Rubbish:
You've bought the propaganda from the nuclear industry. They say it's low-level radiation. That's absolute rubbish. If you inhale a millionth of a gram of plutonium, the surrounding cells receive a very, very high dose. Most die within that area, because it's an alpha emitter. The cells on the periphery remain viable. They mutate, and the regulatory genes are damaged. Years later, that person develops cancer. Now, that's true for radioactive iodine, that goes to the thyroid; cesium-137, that goes to the brain and muscles; strontium-90 goes to bone, causing bone cancer and leukemia. It's imperative … that you understand internal emitters and radiation, and it's not low level to the cells that are exposed. Radiobiology is imperative to understand these days."


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|Mitochondrial presequence and open reading frame mediate asymmetric localization of messenger RNA. EMBO Rep. 11(4), pp.285-91 (2010)..
|CORSEN, a new software dedicated to microscope-based 3D distance measurements: mRNA-mitochondria distance, from single-cell to population analyses. RNA. 16(7), pp.1301-7 (2010)..
|Minimal two-sphere model of the generation of fluid flow at low Reynolds numbers. Phys Rev E Stat Nonlin Soft Matter Phys. 81(3 Pt 2), pp.036304 (2010)..
|Diatom cell division in an environmental context. Curr Opin Plant Biol. 13(6), pp.623-30 (2010)..
|Use of allostery to identify inhibitors of calmodulin-induced activation of Bacillus anthracis edema factor. Proc Natl Acad Sci U S A. 107(25), pp.11277-82 (2010)..
|Ordered structure of the transcription network inherited from the yeast whole-genome duplication. BMC Syst Biol. 4, pp.77 (2010)..
|An atypical member of the light-harvesting complex stress-related protein family modulates diatom responses to light. Proc Natl Acad Sci U S A. 107(42), pp.18214-9 (2010)..
|Prediction of alternative isoforms from exon expression levels in RNA-Seq experiments. Nucleic Acids Res. 38(10), pp.e112 (2010)..
|Inference of sparse combinatorial-control networks from gene-expression data: a message passing approach. BMC Bioinformatics. 11, pp.355 (2010)..
|MIReNA: finding microRNAs with high accuracy and no learning at genome scale and from deep sequencing data. Bioinformatics. 26(18), pp.2226-34 (2010)..
|Mean-field methods in evolutionary duplication-innovation-loss models for the genome-level repertoire of protein domains. Phys Rev E Stat Nonlin Soft Matter Phys. 81(2 Pt 1), pp.021919 (2010)..
|Hydrodynamic synchronization of colloidal oscillators. Proc Natl Acad Sci U S A. 107(17), pp.7669-73 (2010)..
|Characterization of two members of the cryptochrome/photolyase family from Ostreococcus tauri provides insights into the origin and evolution of cryptochromes. Plant Cell Environ. 33(10), pp.1614-26 (2010)..
|Separation of time scales in one-dimensional directed nucleation-growth processes. Phys Rev E Stat Nonlin Soft Matter Phys. 82(6 Pt 1), pp.061904 (2010)..
|Joint evolutionary trees: a large-scale method to predict protein interfaces based on sequence sampling. PLoS Comput Biol. 5(1), pp.e1000267 (2009)..


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The saddle sores are my most immediate concern. I'd actually appreciate some input from people with experience in this regard, and I'm trying to think of how I can word this without being too off-putting and graphic. So there are blister-like chaffing sores that have been slow-healing and seem to be irritated, possibly infected. I also have a fair amount of lingering swelling and significant soreness in the, ahem, lady parts. I've never experienced anything like this — even after Tour Divide. I often joke with my friends that I have an "iron butt" and honestly thought I was immune to saddle sores. I think it may be a combination of bad chamois choice, less-than-ideal hygiene (although I did take regular alcohol-based wet-wipe "baths" during the race), and more heat than I'm accustomed to. But, man. Ouch. The pain has been bad enough that I haven't been sleeping well at night, still, which also doesn't help with recovery. I tried plenty of lubing for my rides with Keith, as well as applications of a couple of over-the-counter medications for different kinds of infections. I've seen some improvement, but not as much as I expected after a week. Yesterday for a six-hour ride I decided to forgo the chamois and just wear airy running shorts because I've become convinced that chamois are nothing more than bacteria traps and it would be better for me to wick sweat rather than sit on it for six hours. This actually seemed to help. I already have a regular physical scheduled on May 21 so I will have a chance to see my doctor about this. But any suggestions, especially from women, that might offer me some relief before then would be greatly appreciated.
Thursday was Bike to Work Day, and Google had a big festival with booths and prizes to encourage all of its employees to participate. There also seemed to be a competition of sorts among the employees to see who could complete the most awesome ride on their way to work. A few of Beat's co-workers also saw an opportunity to ride their bikes as long as possible before finally going into work, and planned a "long way" loop to the ocean and back — 77 miles and more than 7,000 feet of climbing. Of course Keith and I wanted in on the fun.
I wasn't the only non-Google employee to show up, but I was the only woman. I rolled up for the 6:15 a.m. start wearing my short running shorts and fat platform pedals attached to Beat's hand-built carbon Calfee. The reason for the platform pedals was because after my and Keith's four-hour ride, my road shoes started pinching and my frostbite-foot toes were sore. With all of my undercarriage issues, I really didn't need the added grief of toe pain, so I threw on the platforms right before the ride. I almost wished I left my headlamp attached to my helmet for a trifecta of dorkiness, but really the running shorts and platform pedals made me dorky enough, not to mention I was the only girl. I don't think any of these guys took me seriously from the get-go, but I held on to the finish.
Today I talked Keith into a real day off — we're going to the beach and that's about it. After Keith's bike vacation I'm going to have to reassess, again, just how serious I'm going to be about my training this summer — because I'm not sure exactly what I need to combat this fatigue issue. I don't think it's as simple as taking a week off, but something like that will probably be the first step, after the Ohlone 50K next Saturday. But yeah, if I don't get my health back on track, UTMB is going to a lot more absurd than just the pipe dream that it is right now. I have to be realistic, even if I'm having fun.


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Source: U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics
Release: Employment Situation
Average weekly hours relate to the average hours per worker for which pay was received and is different from standard or scheduled hours. Factors such as unpaid absenteeism, labor turnover, part-time work, and stoppages cause average weekly hours to be lower than scheduled hours of work for an establishment. Group averages further reflect changes in the workweek of component industries. Average weekly hours are the total weekly hours divided by the employees paid for those hours.
Production and related employees include working supervisors and all nonsupervisory employees (including group leaders and trainees) engaged in fabricating, processing, assembling, inspecting, receiving, storing, handling, packing, warehousing, shipping, trucking, hauling, maintenance, repair, janitorial, guard services, product development, auxiliary production for plant's own use (for example, power plant), recordkeeping, and other services closely associated with the above production operations.
Nonsupervisory employees include those individuals in private, service-providing industries who are not above the working-supervisor level. This group includes individuals such as office and clerical workers, repairers, salespersons, operators, drivers, physicians, lawyers, accountants, nurses, social workers, research aides, teachers, drafters, photographers, beauticians, musicians, restaurant workers, custodial workers, attendants, line installers and repairers, laborers, janitors, guards, and other employees at similar occupational levels whose services are closely associated with those of the employees listed.
The series comes from the 'Current Employment Statistics (Establishment Survey).'
The source code is: CES1000000007
U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics, Average Weekly Hours of Production and Nonsupervisory Employees, Mining and Logging [CES1000000007], retrieved from FRED, Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis; https://fred.stlouisfed.org/series/CES1000000007, December 10, 2023.


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Grace is a welcoming community in which students feel that they belong.
Being "accepted" at Grace has two meanings. One is admission to our school, and the other, the feeling students have among their friends, teachers, and the larger Grace community.
Intimate class sizes, wonderful teachers, and an academic approach that meets students where they are lead to impactful learning opportunities, at Grace and after.
Children at Grace learn to appreciate and value the students, teachers, and staff around them, and to celebrate differences and find common bonds.
As our students grow, they bring grace and education to the world, making it a safer, more compassionate, more equitable, and more inclusive place for everyone. We invite you to support the work of Grace.
Get back in touch with Grace!
November 1, 2019
Thursday, December 7 at 8:45 am
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Day: September 17, 2011
Hello world!
Welcome to WordPress.com. After you read this, you should delete and write your own post, with a new title above. Or hit Add New on the left (of the admin dashboard) to start a fresh post. Here are some suggestions for your first post. You can find new ideas for what to blog about by […]Read More


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About "E Io Penso A Te"
"E Io Penso A Te" is a song recorded by Ivana Spagna. The track belongs to the discography of the same artist.
Browsing this site, you can listen to other songs played by Ivana Spagna and other artists, bands, songwriters.
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"E Io Penso A Te" video by Ivana Spagna is property and copyright of its owners and it's embedded from Youtube.
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SONGSTUBE is against piracy and promotes safe and legal music downloading. Music on this site is for the sole use of educational reference and is the property of respective authors, artists and labels. If you like Ivana Spagna songs on this site, please buy them on Itunes, Amazon and other online stores. All other uses are in violation of international copyright laws. This use for educational reference, falls under the "fair use" sections of U.S. copyright law.