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This Local Associates Policy applies to any registered business that offers face-to-face customer experiences and that facilitates customer purchases on Amazon.com ("Local Associates Program") operated by an Associate in one or more of its owned or operated facilities registered on the program portal at https://affiliate-program.amazon.com/local Associates Site (such portal, the "Local Associates Portal" and such facilities, the "Local Associates Facilities"). In order to participate in the Local Associates Program you must (A) be an owner or authorized employee of a registered business, (B) apply through the Local Associates Portal, (C) have your application accepted by Amazon, (D) not be also registered for the Amazon Associates Program, and (E) comply with the applicable provisions of the Associates Program Operating Agreement, including this Local Associates Policy.
As Target is the second-largest general retailer in the United States, their affiliate program is primarily for American bloggers or publishers who can route visitors to relevant products. Overall, the program works much like Amazon's does in that publishers (bloggers) get a small commission on sales, but Target's gigantic product base (over one million items) and high brand recognition make their affiliate program a great option for influencers.
Creating space for banner ads on your website is another way to generate a revenue from adverts. However, for this type of advertising, you will need to contact businesses directly and ask them if they would like to advertise on your website. The upside is that you can charge a set amount, or even a recurring monthly fee, to business to promote their services on your site. Using a WordPress plugin like AdSanity is an effective way to manage this type of advertising.
If you are really short on cash and need some immediate funds then you should start by looking around your house. Clear out your cupboards and find any items lying around that you don't need or haven't used for a while. Then sell them on eBay. Just because they are gathering dust in your cupboards, doesn't mean someone else won't snap them up. Simply sign up with eBay, list your products and then, as they are sold, send them off to the buyers.
I was thinking print because I understand that market much better, as I come from that world. Also, there is an immense amount of competition online, specifically regarding PPC. Finally, print offers something which PPC ads do not IMO, which is, when people see something in a newspaper or magazine, they give it more weight. They tend to put more trust into it. Even though they shouldn't, they assume because something is in print, it must be good and worthy. However…
Understanding the effectiveness of your affiliate program is crucial for sustainable success. Identifying your top-performing affiliate marketers, for example, can help you double-down on what's working. Why are they so effective? Were they very loyal to your brand before becoming an affiliate? If yes, then maybe you need to contact your most frequent shoppers about joining the program.
I've said many times before that the money is in the list but it bears repeating. The money really is in the list. Look at all the really big affiliate marketers. Guys like Frank Kern, John Reese, Shoemoney, etc. They all have huge mailing lists. And because they have huge lists, they don't have to spend hundreds of thousands per month on advertising. John Reese refers to his list as his ATM. He just goes to it whenever he needs to make a withdraw.
Jason – so happy to hear the tutorial is helping! Affiliate marketing was a huge break for me and I'm sure it can be for your son too. Whatever products/services he ends up selling, just make sure he is excited about the industry he is – it takes a long of time creating content and it will keep him motivated especially when he gets his first sales.
If you're willing to take on some risk and have the heart of a true hustler, you can make extra money online doing commission-only sales for startups and other businesses. While you won't be getting a regular salary, with the right sales strategies and skills as an inside sales rep, you can make decent money for each sale you bring in. And because you'll most likely be working with startups, if you can negotiate a little equity you could profit big time if you're pitching a solid product and the startup succeeds.
Affiliate marketing is often termed as one of the best online marketing programs that are available to small business. Why? There is no risk when it comes to affiliate marketing; you only pay after the results are delivered. Using an affiliate marketing program, you agree to pay your affiliate partners a referral fee for each lead or sale that is generated. Affiliate marketing is often referred to as partnership marketing because you are partnering with others to help sell your products and/or services.
Read product reviews before you buy. Decide whether a desktop or a laptop is best to suit your needs (Ex. You will likely need a desktop to get a customer service position. On the other end of the spectrum, proofreading can be done on a tablet if necessary.) And, while you're budgeting for new hardware, don't forget to factor in a good headset – many remote jobs require them. (To increase your marketability, you can also add a decent mic and an all-in-one printer. Or even a foot pedal if you're going into transcription.)
There are loads of resources for making money online as an affiliate. You could source products from ClickBank, Commission Junction, Rakuten Marketing, Share-a-Sale, Impact Radius and many others. Plus, many of the larger companies have their own affiliate programs as well. Do your due diligence and find the right company with a relevant product or service to your audience that you can sell as an affiliate.
Flexoffers is another huge affiliate marketing network. They pay you (the affiliate) a lot faster than others in the industry. It has more than 10 years of experience in the field. While they do not offer anything that is neither groundbreaking nor revolutionary, they do provide a solid array of tools and features that will surely aid you in your campaigns. In addition to the fast payouts, Flexoffers lets you choose from thousands of affiliate programs to promote, offers various content delivery formats, and more.
Become an Amazon Associate and then use Keyword planner to find an in-demand niche: With more than a million different products to choose from and up to 10% commission the sales you drive, Amazon's affiliate program is a great place to get started. Browse their available products and see what connects with you. Or take it a step further and use Google's Keyword Planner to quickly check how many people are searching for a specific term. With affiliate marketing, the more relevant traffic you can pull in, the more you'll make off your site.
Great list! I have another to consider that I personally have 35+ years experience providing. Clean up litter outside commercial properties on foot using inexpensive hand tools. It's almost as easy to do as going for a walk! I started doing this as a side gig in 1981 and soon grew it into a profitable full-time business. I share my experience in my book, Cleanlots.
This book doesn't lead you by the hand and tell you how to do every last thing. It can't and Greene didn't attempt to do that. You have to do the work yourself to reap the rewards. Greene simply points out that Clickbank isn't the get rich quick scheme everyone seems to be looking for and then he tells you how you can actually work to turn it into a great passive income source.
Amazon will not pay you unless your affiliate sales reach a threshold of $10 if you choose to be paid by direct bank deposit or Amazon gift card, or $100 if you want to be paid by check. If you fail to reach the threshold, your affiliate balance is carried over to the next month and added to the sales you make then. Amazon pays affiliate sales at net 60 days, so, for example, sales that reach the threshold at the end of January will be paid in late March.
If you want to help shape products in their early stages, joining an online focus group or answering survey questions is a great way to make extra money online. They don't pay as much as some of the other options we've highlighted, but you can join groups on sites like Survey Junkie, Swagbucks, and IPSOS that pay out through Amazon gift cards, check, or PayPal. You'll be asked to provide a bit of information about your demographics (age, location, etc…), but after that you can get going making money through surveys.
Now comes the real test to test your strategies: marketing.Marketing your product is by far the most important step (and the most time – consuming) on your way to success, and so, many people try to take shortcuts. They focus on what they think and not what your customers want. They prioritize sound on intelligence. They assume that pushing a product on the face of a potential client this is perfect to buy it. But it's not how it works exactly. Here are some tips for promoting your product.
This is also known as a sales funnel. The first few emails helps build your relationship with the subscriber. Later emails in the funnel are used to promote the Clickbank products. This setup works far better than any hit and run system. Research has shown that most prospect won't buy on the first visit or email. They need to be hit over and over again. This is where the auto responder comes in. The sooner you set it up, the faster you'll be in the money.
If you have previous experience as a computer programmer or have skills in this field, then there is plenty of work you can pick up as a freelancer. If lack of confidence is holding you back, then Free Code Camp is an excellent way to get your foot in the coding door. This organization provides free courses where you will build real-life apps and programs, giving you experience and plenty to add to your CV.
Finding Quality Affiliates: Starting an affiliate program isn't difficult to set up, but finding good quality affiliates that can assist in driving business can be challenging. With affiliates it's about relationships, they will only promote products and services with businesses that they trust. Many of them have been burned in the past, so getting super affiliates in your program can be a challenge, and it is also what will make or break your affiliate marketing program.
Re-selling web hosting will enable you to make money hosting your own client's websites. Large hosting companies like HostGator allow you to white label their hosting services. You could start your own hosting business or, if you are a web designer, include hosting into your web design packages. And the best of it is the hosting companies take care of the hosting for you, so all you need to worry about is selling.
I have an autoresponder. Then, I would send emails to my subscribers telling them to buy a product. Then if a subscriber bought a product and is still in my prospects list, I would send them emails about buying the product which they have bought. So I need to separate them. Basically means I need to separate buyers and non-buyers so I can send them different emails. How do I do that
Using a food delivery service can't necessarily earn you money, but it can help you save you money if you constantly find yourself throwing out half the food you buy. Food delivery services send a box of food every week with new, sometimes unique vegetables, meat, fruit, and so on. If you don't have time to shop and want simple meal-prep that leads to a good meal, a food subscription service may be perfect for you.


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Dog Clothes For Adults
DIY Clothes Ideas for Your Dogs DIY Projects Craft Ideas & How To's for Home Decor with Videos. Want to know how to make DIY dog clothes? If your furry pup needs a makeover, these dog outfit ideas may just be the thing you need! DIY Dog Clothes and Coats. Seeing dogs wearing DIY dog clothes bring such joy to me. That's why whenever I get the chance, I upcycle some of our old clothes to make dog clothes and coats for our beloved pet. If you need one or an entire wardrobe for your pet, here are some DIY ideas you can try.
Make them adorable and cute in a flash! Before you get started, make sure you have plenty of fabric and a sturdy sewing machine! DIY Projects. Need to keep your pet warm for the winter or just because you want him or her to look cute? This no sew DIY dog jacket may be the next project for you. Get the tutorial here.
Can Worms In Dogs Infect Humans. Some diseases can be transmitted to humans from animals such as dogs - these are known as zoonotic diseases. Many external and. Description. Dog sledding is a wonderful winter holiday experience for adults and families alike. Discover Dog Sledding in Lapland is an enjoyable and flexible husky. 70s attire for kids and adults. Shop for 1970s disco costumes and disco outfits like sequin suits and Saturday Nights Fever clothes. French Bulldog information including pictures, training, behavior, and care of French Bulldogs and dog breed mixes.
Dog Shirtimage via Herstoria. Here's your next sewing project. Have your dog ready for a special event with this DIY tutorial. Get the pattern here. Upcycled Dog Sweaterimage via Indulgy. Got an old sweater? Don't throw it away!
We also offer lodging STAY AND SLED PACKAGES for our prefered guests visiting for Jims incredible dog sledding experience. Come stay with us at our Eden Mountain.
Turn it into a DIY dog sweater. Baby Onesie to Dog Shirtimage source. Is your baby all grown up? Well there's another baby you can give his or her onesie to. DIY Sweater Dog Clothesimage via Useful DIYDon't throw away your kid's sweater that they've outgrown. Upcycle! Get the instructions here. DIY Dog Dressimage via Sew It Love It.
Think dresses are just for girls? Make one for your dog too. Get the tutorial here. DIY Dog Clothes in a Few Minutesimage source. Try your sewing skills with this DIY dog clothes project. See it here. 8. DIY Pet Coatimage via bevykona. Even your dog needs a coat too.
He or she will look so fashionable. Get the steps here. Dog Diaperimage via Mimi and Tara. You can make it for it's use or just because you know your dog will look cute wearing it. Get the pattern here. Canine Carhartt Coatimage via Instructables.
Isn't he just a dear? Get the tutorial here. Dog T shirtimage via Mimi and Tara. A DIY dog shirt you can easily make. Strategies For Word Retrieval In Adults.
Dalmatian information including pictures, training, behavior, and care of Dalmatian and dog breed mixes. With high-quality canned dog food from PetSmart, you can offer him a wide variety of tastes and textures. Find the best wet dog food brands for puppies, adults and. Want to know how to make DIY dog clothes? If your furry pup needs a makeover, these dog outfit ideas may just be the thing you need! Make them look cute! Welcome: Featured News: Upcoming Events: Saint Gall Parish is a sacramental community of faith, guided by the Holy Spirit and centered in the celebration of the. An autism service dog is a service dog trained to assist an autistic person to help them gain independence and the ability to perform activities of daily living.
It even has patterns for dogs of all sizes. Get it here. 1. 2. DIY Sock Sweaterimage via Pupbuzz. Have a puppy or a small dog?
Turn your odd sock into a DIY dog sweater. See it here. Want to see how to make a dog shirt out of an old t shirt? Check out this video tutorial from Fantasy Couch: For more fun patterns and ideas, check out this great design book for dogs of all sizes! More Dog Crafts on DIY Projects: Did you our list of DIY dog crafts? Let us know in the comments section below what your thoughts are on these DIY projects for dogs.
Do you have any other craft project you'd like to share? Share it with us and we'll give it a try. We love doing cool DIY projects by making craft projects, home decor projects, upcycling ideas, recipes, tutorials and anything you can do yourself. That's why we created this site, we want people to be more in touch with their creative side and realize that there's a lot of things that they can do themselves.
We'd love to hear from you and create a community of DIY enthusiasts where any project is just a click away. Stay connected with us on Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest and Instagram!
Dalmatian Dog Breed Information, Pictures, Characteristics & Facts – Dogtime. With his regal carriage and unique spots, the Dalmatian is probably one of the most recognized breeds on the planet.
Many people are attracted to his dashing good looks, but he's definitely not for everyone. While Dalmatians love to be with their people for any activity that occurs in the course of a day and can make wonderful companion dogs, their high energy level can be exhausting to live with. Dalmations were created to run for miles alongside carriages, helping to ward off highwaymen and add a touch of flair to the vehicle with aristocratic passengers. Now we just have cars with racing stripes.) Not surprisingly, the Dalmatian today has an endless capacity for exercise and is the ideal companion for people who jog, skate, or bicycle. He's also a keen competitor in canine sports such as agility and flyball. A Dalmatian must have adequate daily exercise to prevent behavior problems from developing.
If you are considering a Dalmatian, be aware that the breed is not only highly active but also highly intelligent. They need training early in life to establish rules for behavior, or they will decide it is their job to run things. Dalmatians can be a bit headstrong so training must be firm and consistent. At the same time Dalmatians are sensitive and do not respond well to harsh training methods. You need a positive approach to training with lots of rewards for proper behavior if you want a well- trained dog. Dalmatians are said to not forget mistreatment or harsh behavior.
Another consideration should be the incidence of deafness in the breed. This condition is prevalent in Dalmatians. It is inherited as a polygenic trait, and all Dalmatian bloodlines can pass along deafness to their offspring. Approximately eight percent of Dalmatians are born completely deaf, and 2. The Dalmatian Club of America recommends euthanasia for all puppies found to be completely deaf. That's because they are more challenging to train and may bite if startled. Nonetheless, some people believe deaf dogs can make just as wonderful pets as hearing dogs if they are trained with hand signals and vibrations so they are less likely to be startled.
If you are considering adopting a deaf puppy or older adult dog, be sure to research the issue and the special care requirements of living with a deaf dog before you suffer the heartbreak of taking the dog in and not being able to manage his care properly. Dalmatians have a urinary system unique in the dog world, and they have a few special requirements because of this to prevent medical complications. Their diet should never be extremely high in protein, and they must be allowed access to plenty of fresh water at all times. Dalmatians also should have the opportunity to relieve themselves frequently to keep the urinary system flushed.
With these simple protocols in place, your Dalmatian should live a long, healthy life. Dalmatians will get along with other pets and children if socialized as a puppy with all types of pets and people. Dalmatians can make a wonderful active playmate for children (with proper supervision to be sure that both the child and the dog are following acceptable rules for behavior). With the Dalmatian's energy and enthusiasm for games, the dog and child will have a marvelous time tiring each other out. Children younger than 6 years of age may be easily knocked down by this muscular, active, and strong dog. Take special precautions and supervise interactions between smaller children and Dalmatians. You can participate in numerous dog sports and activities with your Dalmatian.
He'll do well in obedience competition with the proper motivational, positive training. He's also an excellent agility competitor as the sport is tailored to athletic dogs such as the Dalmatian. Dalmatians make great hiking companions and backpacking dogs, and the sports of flyball and Frisbee are excellent activities for the well- trained Dalmatian. If your dog has the right combination of looks and personality, you may also enjoy the sport of showing dogs, known as conformation, at AKC shows. The Dalmatian Club of America sponsors a program that offers titles in keeping with the breed's history as carriage dogs.
The Road Dog (RD) title and Road Dog Excellent (RDX) are titles earned by the dog accompanying horses or carriages for a certain number of miles and then performing some basic obedience. These trials are usually held in conjunction with the larger specialty shows and with the national show sponsored by the Dalmatian Club of America. Whatever you do with your Dalmatian, whether he is your best friend, active family companion, or seasoned competitor, be sure that with the right combination of exercise, discipline, and love he will be a great addition to your family.
Attire - Disco Costumes, Outfits & Clothes. Chicken Pox Adults Dangerous on this page. Stayin' alive! 7. At Party City, we see it as one of our primary missions to keep all those tacky 7. Elvis jumpsuits and Saturday Night Live leisure clothing blazed by the biggest luminaries of the decade of pleasure and escapism (or was that the 8. Here, we offer all manner of 7.
Disco costumes for the dance floor, Elvis suits for your Vegas wedding, and funky outfits that humorously exaggerate the excesses of the period. Acting Camps For Young Adults. Most 7. 0s outfits come more or less complete as shown; in some cases you may want to purchase a 7.
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subset: commoncrawl


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Kim Dotcom in last ditch battle against US extradition (Reports).
New Zealand's top court has begun hearing Megaupload founder Kim Dotcom's appeal against extradition to the US. Dotcom faces charges of copyright infringement and racketeering if his extradition goes through.
A five-day appeal hearing on the extradition of Kim Dotcom got underway Monday in New Zealand's Supreme Court .
It represents Dotcom's final attempt to avoid extradition to the United States, where he faces criminal charges including conspiracy to commit racketeering, copyright infringement, money laundering and wire fraud.
A district court in New Zealand ruled in 2015 that Dotcom, the founder of the file-sharing service Megaupload, and his associates Mathias Ortmann, Finn Batato and Bram van der Kolk were eligible for extradition to the US. The decision was upheld by the country's High Court in 2017 and again in the Court of Appeal in 2018.
If the Supreme Court deems Dotcom and his associates eligible for extradition, a final decision on the case would lie with New Zealand's Justice Minister.
File sharing service
Dotcom, born Kim Schmitz in the northern German city of Kiel, founded Megaupload in 2005. The website provided online file storage and viewing services and made millions from advertising and premium subscriptions.
At its peak, Megaupload was the 13th most popular website on the internet and accounted for 4% of all online traffic.
But the US' Federal Bureau of Investigation (FBI) seized the domain in 2012 and indicted Megaupload's owners for allegedly operating as an organization dedicated to copyright infringement. Dotcom has resided in New Zealand since 2010. He was arrested in 2012, and has denied any wrongdoing.
Ahead of the trial, Dotcom posted on Twitter that his file upload service "allowed users to email a link to a file. That's it."


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Vox Media contributors thrive on innovation and change while ambitiously seeking to master their subject areas, hone their craft, and improve their communities. We help smart, talented, creative professionals make a meaningful impact in media, technology and the world around them. The Vox Media house of brands includes industry-leading media forces like SB Nation, Eater, The Verge, Vox, Curbed, Recode, Racked and Polygon, and reaches an audience of hundreds of millions, generating over a billion content views each month.
Vox Media's SB Nation is the fastest-growing online sports media brand and the largest network of more than 300 individual fan-centric sports communities, including SBNation.com, our national flagship property. Our network is powered by the most respected web-native sports journalists. One part of our network needs some new voices, and that's where you come in.
The Cannon, the SB Nation blog covering the Columbus Blue Jackets, is hiring writers. The writers will be responsible for writing posts about the Blue Jackets on agreed-upon topics and schedules. We have openings for two contributors to join our team.
Ideally, we'd like to bring on at least one candidate who is local to the Columbus, Ohio, area and available to occasionally attend practice or media availability.
Our best candidates will:
* Have a passion for the Blue Jackets and will already be familiar with The Cannon.
* Be able to produce and edit clean copy.
* Be comfortable working in a remote environment.
* Follow junior hockey, European hockey, and/or NCAA prospects.
* Be skilled with analytics.
* Have previous playing or coaching experience to do Xs and Os analysis.
* Previous hockey or sportswriting experience in general is preferred.


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Pacific skies.
Posted in Americas, Chile Tagged Ahu, Ahu Akivi, Ahu Tahai, Blue, Chile, Clouds, Crab, Dark, Devil Almight Blues, Easter Island, Gold, Isla de Pascua, Light, Ocean, Orongo, Pacific Ocean, Photography, Photos, Rain, Rapa Nui, Sky, Storm coming down, Sun, Sunrise, Sunset 12 Comments
El misterio vive: Rapa Nui journal, Part III (and final).
There's only a beach on Easter Island: as it's to be expected, it comes with a bit of tourist infrastructure. But stop that image that's forming in your mind, the one with all-inclusive resorts and a W Hotel with unz-unz-unz music blaring out of the lobby. Ditch the banana boat too. What is there are a couple of shacks with potato sacks as sun screens, Mahina beer by the bottle and heavenly pescado del dia cooked in coconut milk. Coffee is available too, but only mocaccino flavoured Nespresso. "No llevaran en el avión" is the smiling answer when you enquire about a normal flavour pod. Still, there's instant coffee to be had while chickens and cats stomp around in a strange feathered-feline alliance. And Rapa Nui's answer to Jack Johnson schmoozes out of the speakers. Intermittently, Anakena beach is lashed by rain showers that chase the few sun-bathers away.
Click on any photo to start the slideshow.
Sunsets are a heart-warming spectacle everywhere on the island, but Ahu Tahai is the hotspot. A selected few – even a dozen makes a crowd here – come to witness the event, including two Rapa Nui chatting in their aboriginal language and another couple playing music. Not even two stray dogs having a very public romp can break the idyll. But what about sunrises, we wonder?
We drive through the night on the coastal road, swerving to avoid pothole and the occasional sleepless equine. A soft mist hugs the low bushes, a salty mist that can only be made of sea spray.
Photos taken – obviously – during the day, but you get idea. Just think it's dark and you have a 10-watt torch in lieu of headlamps
I'll cut to the chase. Sunrise at Tongariki is a failure. Besides Poiké mountain lying unhelpfully between Tongariki and the sun, the place is swarmed by noisy campers who never got the "silent contemplation of nature's beauty" memo. Yet what happened before will forever remain in our hearts and there only because, unfortunately, I'm too ignorant to photograph it properly.
It was still dark when we parked some way off the entrance to the moai. There's only one light around us, oozing from the gatekeeper's lodge. A beacon flashes intermittently from a small lighthouse; besides that, it's dark. Yet we can see where we're going.
The Milky Way is above us, arching from horizon to horizon. The sky is dotted with stars, twinkling planets and slow-moving satellites; then there's that massive white band, a streak of iridescent white caviar stacked against that absolutely dark dinner plate that is the sky. I've never seen such a spectacle. Standing against the spare wheel of our washing machine on wheels I had my own Pale Blue Dot moment. I'm not looking back in but, even from the other way round, I can just begin to understand the enormity of what's out there. Cast against such a backdrop everything I know and see – the low rock wall, the silhouettes of the moai, the crashing waves – is irrelevant like a bee's fart in a hurricane. It all matters shit and it's such as refreshing thought: you, me, Trump, China, the Mueller report… it all equates to precisely the square root of diddly squat. Ah, it's so nice.
We give up on Tongariki and drive on in the aurora. Te Pito Kura – once the tallest moai – appears like an unhoped-for saviour. We're alone but for a few horses we can hear huffing nearby. The sun paints sky and clouds red before the rotating horizon reveals it, us and a swaying palm as the only witnesses. The wind smells of yellow-flowered bushes whose name I don't know, and of eucalyptus. Today we will be leaving and there's regret at that notion, but there's also undeniable satisfaction. Satisfaction for having made it here and for the big trunk of experiences and memories we'll be bringing back home. Thank you Te Pito o Te Henua, the Navel of the World.
Posted in Americas, Chile Tagged Ahu, Ahu Tahai, Anakena, Beach, Clouds, Easter Island, horses, Isla de Pascua, Milky Way, Moai, Navel of the world, Ocean, Pacific, Pale blue dot, Palm, Pescado, Poike, Rapa Nui, Ship, Stargazing, Stars, Sunrise, Sunset, Tahai, Te Pito Kura, Te Pito o Te Henua, Tongariki 19 Comments
El misterio vive: Rapa Nui journal, Part II.
The north coast is the remote corner of an island that's already way out of the way. The further away from Hanga Roa the least passable the road gets, until it becomes little more than a rock-strewn goat path patrolled by munching horses lost in thought.
Waves and the rustling of leaves are the sole soundtrack of our trek. There's another couple of hikers out, and we play a silent relay where no one reaches the other. We walk speaking quietly, completely forgetful of our own worries from out there. This island has the same effect of drinking from the river Lethe of the ancient Greeks.
Only a wooden sign and a low stone wall mark the village of Te Peu. A rock-strewn meadow where the flotsam of human activity is still very much visible: the foundations of a long house, stones aligned in neat lines, drill-holes filled with rainwater; a manavai mulch garden; the ruins of an ahu platform.
Moai lie face-down in the grass. A head, decapitated in the process, has been rolled up and now eyes the back of the platform on which it once stood, hollow eyes still obstinately refusing to even cast a sideway glance at the sea.
It's funny how moai, this island's alleged party-piece, are the last hook in the longline of attraction that has fished me out of the sea and has landed me here, unwilling to leave. They're Rapa Nui's biggest attraction yet I think I'd still love this place even without them. Still, they puzzle me and if there's a place where to sit down and ask oneself why, then Te Peu it is. Not really to ask why they were built – why did we erect the Parthenon, the Pantheon, Taj Mahal, Süleymaniye Mosque? – but why they were torn down. Uzbeks toppled Lenin from Tashkent's main square for a reason; Iraqis did the same with Saddam's statues: their time was up. Was it the same for Rapa Nui? I look around for answers but there's only a cow beside us and she's sworn to bovine secrecy.
Up until the 1960s no moai stood on the island; they all lied face down in the grass. Now a handful of sites have their moai back up, a move that would perhaps cause horror amongst archaeologists – who, now, thinks that painting Knossos' palace was a good idea? – but that, personally, I've no problems with.
Akivi is the closest such place to Te Peu and, perhaps, the most peculiar of all. Seven moai stand to attention in a neat row between a thicket of eucalyptus and a ploughed field, the lawn on which they stand descending gently towards the blue sea. The Akivi seven are the only ones facing that direction.
Legend has it that these are the seven original explorers, the seven men that king Hotu Matu'a sent on the voyage of exploration that culminated in the discovery of Rapa Nui. As we amble about the place I try to conceive a journey of thousands of kilometres into the unknown, the excitement of discovery, the return and then doing it all again. In an age with no compass, no maps, no GPS. In a sea with no natural features but the stars at night and the sun. Finding an island a tenth of the size of London in a stretch of ocean vaster than Latin America. These guys have all the rights to be as smug and proud as the Mercury astros in that famous picture. Funnily enough, those Mercury astronauts were seven too.
The Akivi seven are all different. Some are tall and slender; others are short and bulkier, though all seem to be caressing a beer gut with more than a hint of satisfaction. One of them has a head so much bigger than the rest of his body that I'm sure he inspired Peter Adolph, Subbuteo's original designer.
The moai are depiction of real people, I tell myself as we leave Akivi. They aren't idealised representations such as those Roman generals that all had a six pack, plump Crassus included. Tongariki, where fifteen of them (moai, not Roman generals) stand, backs to the sea, reinforces that idea.
You can see Tongariki from far away; precisely from the slopes of Rano Raraku. The old quarry, littered as it is with broken, half-done or complete moai is a perfect view point and a puzzling experience at the same time. Imagine you're entering a car assembly line, expecting people to be working, robots to be buzzing, the noise and smell of production. But there's no one. The assembly line is empty: half-finished vehicles lie abandoned, tools and equipment left where the workers – on strike, perhaps – have dropped them. This is what it felt to enter Rano Raraku. Moais ready for shipment stood at odd angles; other lied on their backs, evidently broken in transport. Some still were embedded in the mother rock, signs of chisels all around them in the soft tuff. What happened? Did the work crews really down tools, sung a Rapa Nui version of Inti Illimani's "El pueblo unido jamás vencido" and left the bosses scratching their heads? As a cherry on this cake of oddity a lady walked a pig on a leash.
Click on any of the photos above to start the slideshow.
I got side-tracked. I was planning to talk about Tongariki. For a few, blissful minutes on an overcast afternoon, we are alone there with the two rangers. The Fifteen sit in the shadow, the kr-umph of waves chatting amicably behind them. We sit in front of them thinking of how lucky we are in being there. Spiritual people might be thanking some higher being.
Click on any of the photos above to start the slideshow.
I rummage in my backpack and fish out a photocopied number of Rapa Nui Journal. In it is the translation of the poem He Moai by David Menezes Salvo, winner of the second place of a 1991 poetry contest.
Moai, when will you tell us the truth?
How many stories do you have to tell us?
Moai, where are you looking at?
The Tongariki Fifteen remain silent. Two more tourists arrive. From far away the wind carries the barks of a dog.
Posted in Americas, Chile Tagged Ahu, Ahu Akivi, Akivi, America, Chile, David Menezes Salvo, Easter Island, El Misterio Vive, He Moai, Journal, King Hotu Matu'a, Moai, Ocean, Pacific, Poem, Poike, Rano Kau, Rapa Nui, Te Peu, Tongariki 10 Comments
El misterio vive: Rapa Nui journal, Part I.
Some trips are born in the heat of the moment. Others come from way back, originating from yellowing books, B&W films or stories told by elder relatives a lifetime ago. This is one of them. But yet again, it shouldn't be a surprise: I doubt that many people arrive at Rapa Nui by accident. You don't fly here on a whim.
On paper there are enough reasons to be disappointed with this island. It's not a beach destination: in fact, there's only one stretch of sand in the whole place. There's also a distinct lack of other tropical must-haves: a coral reef, blue lagoon or cinematographic views that would command a place on the cover of Condé Nast magazine. On top of that there's only one luxury hotel, itself at the centre of an ugly spat – but more on that later.
Yet, despite all this, many come, as I did; many also long to return, as I do. We stayed as long as we could and it wasn't enough. I wished it was for longer. I wish I was still there.
Why is that? What makes this place so captivating that so many, from King Hotu Matu'a to the French man who owns our hostal, arrive and don't ever leave?
The best explanation I've been able to give is that Rapa Nui has something. There's something here, however resembling of Kurt Russell's The Thing this phrase sounds. A colleague at work defined it nicely: it's an answer. An answer to a question you haven't yet figured out how to pose.
You've arrived at the end of the road and it really feels that. According to some theories on human migrations Rapa Nui was one of the last outposts where Homo Sapiens arrived, everything else having already been conquered by our ancestors. Every now and then this idea hits you and when it doesn't the distances do: it's 2,500 km to the next inhabited island (Pitcairn, population 50); a further 1,000 for Chile. All there's around is sea, sea so open and multi-coloured that it's easy to think to be on an ocean-going vessel.
And yet you aren't. This is an island, an island with a quaint little town called Hanga Roa: bumpy roads and trees, churches and tourist shops, flowers and small supermarkets with notices for the arrival of fresh milk and salads kept in refrigerators.
Liking Hanga Roa comes surprisingly easy; getting in tune with its rhythm requires even less effort. Give it a day and you'll find yourself driving slowly into town, windows down, head bobbing to the reggae tunes aired by Radio Rapa Nui. Unconsciously you'll copy the attire of those you're meeting on the street: shoes splattered with the red mud of this island. Utilitarian trousers. A well-washed T-shirt. Let your hair be coiffured by the wind, get suntanned, don't shave. Just listen to the music and wonder what all the tropical places listened to before Marley. A crooner from the 1950s come on. Perhaps that.
Not everything is hakuna matata here. Rapa Nui's Chilean government is enlightened enough in letting a Parliament of sorts exist on a clearing not far from City Hall, a Parliament proclaiming the right to self-determination. I've a feeling that the French would be a lot less permissive in Polynesia. Yet the Carabineros were a lot less laissez faire in the way they cleared the Eco Village occupation a few years ago.
There's a road, Apina I believe, running between the two small ports of Hanga Roa. Along it are the Navy barracks, a number of commercial exercises – a bank, a couple of restaurants – and, then, a fenced building with a démodé sci-fi look, something out of Space 1999. It's the luxury hotel I mentioned earlier. The views there would be splendid if only one was willing to ignore the dark banners fluttering from poles and the many sheets of corrugated metal. Whoever managed to turn modern minimalism in Genghis-Khan-meets-Mad-Max is a visual genius.
It doesn't take much to figure out the reasons for such a powerful protest. The signs say it all: a case of alleged land-grab perpetrated with the connivance of the government. The squatting occupation that ensued was ended with excessive vigour from the Carabineros, who used pellet guns and rubber bullets to evict the protesters, wounding many.
Better to turn to the sea. Here the Pacific's long waves are crashing on the rocks under the stoic eyes of a horse whilst two dogs decide to follow us. We walk through the small port where a class of teenagers is learning how to paddle canoes under the eyes of teachers and of the local fishing community. The colours are bright to a level never seen in London.
If there was a way to condense Rapa Nui's irresistible pull then the trail leading to the top of Rano Kau's caldera would be it. It sneaks through tropical gardens, palms are bordered by white rocks, before climbing uphill through a lush scenery of thick bushes yellow with flowers visited by slender, industrious bees. We sweat professionally, the sun and red earth bringing back echoes of Dee Dee Bridgewater's eponymous song. A stop for water is an occasion to look down on Hanga Roa and the north coast, with the four little freighters moored offshore. A gentle breeze is enough to wash the sweat away.
Woods, here as elsewhere in the island, are mostly made of eucalyptus. Botanical purists might gasp in horror at the choice but there, under their shadow, smelling their delicate fragrance, it was pure bliss. A little further uphill and we're on the rim of the caldera, looking down to a perfect circle of swamps and a team of three stray dogs who have taken it upon themselves to escort us to Orongo.
We arrive at Orongo, the village whence the yearly Tangata Manu challenge took place, and the weather had changed again. Gone are the Bermuda vibes, wiped away by a cold wind and clouds that are more reminiscent of the Isle of Skye. A few steps away from us the coast falls precipitously towards a graphite sea; surf breaks on Motu Nui islet where the young clan champions had to go to fetch the eggs of the first migratory manutaras.
Today no one braves the rocks and waves to capture an egg. We walk sombrely around the village while, above us, three birds are playing in the riot of thermals that must be swirling, unseen, above our heads. A Kyuss song, evidently written for places and moments like this, bubbles to my mind.
I'm standing alone on the cliffs of the world
No one ever tends to me
Sitting alone, covered in rays
Some things are so my mind can breath
Posted in Americas, Chile Tagged Animals, Bird Man, Chile, Easter Island, Hanga Roa, Horse, Manutara, Migratory bird, Moai, Motu Nui, Ocean, Orongo, Pacific, People watching, Photography, Rano Kau, Ranu Kau, Rapa Nui, Sky, Tangata Manu, Travel, Trekking 17 Comments
The ecocide that wasn't.
Back in my university days there was a book that passed hands with the same speed as No-Global leaflets, only with more enthusiastic reviews. It was Collapse, by American geographer and historian Jared Diamond, author of that Guns, Germs and Steel that our faculty's dean said we all had to read if we wanted any hope of understanding the world.
Guns, Germs and Steel grappled with the age-old question of why certain nations achieve prominence on the world's stage; Collapse, instead, tried to explain why others didn't, finishing discarded in the great dustbin of history. Chief amongst the many soundbites that peppered the book was the notion of "ecocide". Ecological Suicide, in Diamond's view, was the fact of destroying one's habitat through carelessness or sheer mismanagement with results that were more or less always catastrophic for the society in question. One such community, he maintained, was Easter Island's. By cutting all the trees, the Rapa Nui effectively ended their megalithic civilisation and descended in a hellish situation of starvation, famine, warfare and cannibalism.
Or did they?
To quote freely from Mark Twain's response to his own obituary, today we think that news of Rapa Nui's descent into cannibalism are exaggerated. They rely on assumptions that are being challenged by modern researchers drawing from the notes of those who first visited the island as well as from science. This post wants to be a summary of the state of the art of research, a brief foray into academia: don't worry, travelogue and nonsense will return soon.
A peaceful society.
Central to the concept of ecocide is war. Once resources grew scarce, Rapa Nui clans turned one against each other in a bloody civil war that left only one "long ear" alive. This is dramatically in contrast with the diaries of the three expeditions that, first, brought Europeans in contact with the island.
When he arrived on Easter Day 1722, Dutch explored Jacob Roggeveen made no mention of weapons. Forty-eight years later in 1770, Don Felipe González claimed the island for Spain (who subsequently forgot they had it, much like – true story – Silvio Berlusconi forgot to have bought a yacht in the Bahamas); a bit of a buddying anthropologist, González's chief pilot Don Francisco Antonio de Aguera y Infanzon – who, for brevity, I shall call Don Pancho – gave a bow, arrow, knife and cutlass to a Rapa Nui that had swam to his ship. The Rapa Nui, who bore a scar that Don Pancho thought was the result of a war wound, turned to be comically unaware of the purpose of these weapons: he wore the bow on his head and neck as a jewel and held the cutting tools by their blades and not, as it'd be normal, by the handle.
Rapa Nui society was seemingly made of peaceful people who were wholeheartedly enthusiastic of their unexpected visitors. For instance, flint blades, until considered as weapons, have been found by Hawaii's Bishop Museum researchers to be used to cut fibrous plants such as potatoes and taro. The only problem mentioned by the first visitors was Rapa Nui's nonchalant attitude to liberating their property: a Dutch sailor in Roggeveen's landing party shot a few locals that seemed keen on nicking his arquebus. Captain Cook, who visited in 1774, remarked sadly that, although "friendly and hospitable", people were also "addicted to pilfering". Hats in particular seemed all the rage and disappeared quicker than cheap TVs on a Black Friday sale.
Abundance of food.
All three explorers left descriptions of the Rapa Nui that, it can be argued, don't quite fit with the ideal type of a starving person. "Tall, well-built and proportioned in their limbs" was Don Pancho's one-liner. Cook wrote in his journal that they had "Not disagreeable countenances" which is as passionate as upper-class Brits will ever get, even today. Roggeveen must've had a knack for dentistry for he remarked that the Rapa Nui had "pearly white teeth so strong that could crack nuts".
It doesn't end there. The Dutch remarked that agriculture was widely practiced with bananas, yam and potatoes, whilst chickens roamed around. Another Spaniard in Don Felipe's crew, Don Juan Hervé, walked the length of the island and saw plenty of crops which his crew took extra care not to ruin. Modern-day analysis of Rapa Nui skeletal remains highlighted a fairly rich and diverse diet where seafood was surprisingly present, covering 35% of their diet and up to 50% of their protein intake. But wasn't deforestation meant to be causing erosion and depletion of the topsoil? How did the Rapa Nui manage not to starve?
The answer lies in the concept of "lithic enhancement". Much unlike our fields where every pebble and stone has been eliminated, Rapa Nui's are littered with black volcanic rocks. The rocks were used to replenish those mineral nutrients, such as nitrogen, that were depleted by successive crops, thus keeping yields high. Additionally, every village had one or more manavai or "mulch gardens", a ring of rocks surrounding and protecting crops from wind and excessive sun whilst at the same time retaining moisture. As a result, estimates now put the maximum potential population of the island between 3 and 29 thousand souls, with 17,500 as being the most likely option.
Who cut all the trees then?
It's undeniable that deforestation took place and, as a result, life changed on Rapa Nui. It's also undeniable that deforestation happened relatively quickly, in a matter of a few centuries from the arrival of king Hotu Matu'a from the Marquesas. Yet, it mightn't have been all down to humans.
According to Oregon University archaeologist Terry Hunt, Hotu Matu'a's fleet carried some stowaways under the form of rats. As the men and women arrived at Anakena beach so did the pests which found a virgin environment without so much as a predator. It must've been rat heaven and the results did not wait to arrive: estimates put the peak mice population to be numbering in the low millions, all gorging themselves on the rich forest around them. Palm nuts showing rat gnaws have been found all throughout the island, showing that humans had a four-legged helper in the destruction of the primeval tree cover.
And what about the moai?
Today we see most moai standing on top of their ahu platform. However, until the 1960s all of them had been knocked down, many in bits. The vulgata tells stories of tit-for-tat vandalism in the framework of a civil war that is very hard to imagine (Bishop Museum's researchers found that only 2% of skeletons showed signs of a violent death). Additionally, it goes against the observations of our explorers.
Roggeveen saw the moai all standing on their ahu and witnessed clear signs of devotion from the islanders. He mentions how people lit fires in front of the statues and venerated the megaliths by crouching before them and by moving hands up and down in adoration. Don Pancho agrees in defining the moai as objects of worship.
Things were evolving when Cook passed, four years after the Spaniards. On the east side of the island he saw three ahu which, originally, hosted 4 moai each. Two ahu had no moai standing and, as for the last one, one moai had already been toppled. He also mentioned that, based on his experience, the statues weren't object of devotion "however it might've been in the days of the Dutch". He rather thought that the moai were being used as burying places as he saw a skeleton lying beneath one.
It's anyone's guess why the Rapa Nui decided to topple their statues. It was done with a certain degree of care, for most have been put face down and most of their faces – long noses included – haven't been damaged. But what led them to do this? I like to think that the moai had been built for a purpose or that they were expression of a belief and that, when the Europeans arrived, either that purpose had been accomplished or the belief had been proved fundamentally wrong. Imagine if we somehow had irrefutable proof of the existence of God, but also that he's neither Allah or Jehovah: would we still need mosques, churches or synagogues?
The real catastrophe.
All evidence, both historic and scientific, seem to point towards an island that had changed drastically but whose civilisation managed to evolve and to keep its vitality by the time of European contact. What happened after the first, relatively benign visits was, however, much worse.
Ships began kidnapping Rapa Nui, culminating in the devastating 1862 Peruvian slaving raid where approximately 2,500 islanders were captured and led to the continent where they succumbed to forced labour and illnesses. The entire clan leadership was wiped out; then a missionary descended on the few, wretched, survivors. Eugène Eyraud, a French priest, came to Rapa Nui to carry out the proselytism that many of his kind were already doing throughout the Pacific. In doing so he helped wiping out a culture that existed for centuries. A sheep and cattle station was established soon afterwards, being discontinued only in the 1950s.
Can Rapa Nui still teach us a lesson?
Absolutely yes. Whilst we can't fully buy the ecocide narrative, it'd be wrong not to take heed from Rapa Nui's deforestation. Without trees the islanders couldn't manufacture ropes or use wood and, therefore, had to give up on their megalithic industry almost overnight, as the Rano Raraku quarry seems to show.
Our civilisation is in the same situation with many materials that are rare or in short supply. I'm talking about yttrium, coltan, lithium and many others: without them we don't have LEDs, mobile phones or Toyota Priuses and, right now, it seems to me that there isn't a lot of care on how we manage this finite stock of resources.
Another important lesson is our approach to aboriginal – or uncontacted – civilisations but, alas, I'm afraid that we've well and truly missed that train now.
1. João Vicente Ganzarolli de Oliveira, Culture and Isolation in Easter Island, in Rapa Nui Journal Vol. II N. 4, December 1997
2. Whitney Dangerfield, The Mystery of Easter Island, in The Smithsonian 31/03/2007
3. Jago Cooper, Easter Island: Mysteries of a Lost World, BBC4
4. L. Jarman, T. Larsen, T. Hunt et al, Diet of the Prehistoric Population of Rapa Nui Shows Environmental Adaptation and Resilience in American Journal of Physical Anthropology, 2017; 164 343-361
5. Cedric O. Puleston et al, Rain, Sun, Soil and Sweat: A Consideration of Population Limits on Rapa Nui Before European Contact, in Frontiers in Ecology and Evolution, July 2017, vol. 5, article 69
6. Ship Log of 1770 voyage of Captain Don Felipe González, retrieved easterisland.travel
7. Ship Log of 1774 voyage of Captain James Cook, retrieved easterisland.travel
8. Herbert von Saher, Some Details of the Journal of Jacob Roggeveen, in Rapa Nui Journal Vol IV N. 3, Fall 1990
9. Zuzanna Jakubowska-Vorbrich, Chilean Report on Easter Island, 1870: From Science to Politics and Prejudice, Institute of Iberian and Ibero-American Studies, University of Warsaw, 2018
10. Jared Diamond, Collapse: How Societies Choose to Fail or Succeed, Penguin, 2011
Posted in Americas, Chile Tagged Aboriginal civilisation, Academia, Ahu, Article, Chile, Collapse, Deforestation, Don Felipe González, Don Francisco Antonio de Agüera y Infanzon, Easter Island, Ecocide, Ecology, Economics, European Contact, Exploration, Germs and Steel, Guns, Hawaii, Jacob Roggeveen, Jago Cooper, James Cook, Jared Diamond, Moai, Monolith, Ocean, Pacific, Rapa Nui, Rare earths, Statue, Wiley 19 Comments
Thinking of a place.
The sun is setting on a scene I've waited 26 years to see. There's people around me; for some, this is one of many such sunsets; for others it's as new as it is for me. But I doubt that many more are feeling that same sense of satisfaction, of wholeness, of meeting your childhood hero and discovering that he's every bit as great as you thought he'd be.
The sun sets to a remote West where it's already tomorrow. The sun sets, the wind picks up and I'm reminded of a song from The War on Drugs.
And I'm thinking of a place
And it feels so very real
I might stay here for a while.
Posted in Chile Tagged Chile, Easter Island, Moai, Rapa Nui 19 Comments
The quest for the best road.
There are countless articles singing the virtues of this or that stretch of road, claiming it to be "the best in the UK/Europe/world" (delete as applicable). So what's the point in writing another one? What's the use of increasing the count of Best road to ∞+1? The reason is that I've really found the best road, at least for me and, since I'm not a selfish bastard, here it is: the ring formed around the Icelandic Snæfellsnes peninsula by routes 54, 574 and 56.
The recipe for the perfect road isn't really hard to ace; all you need are the right ingredients. Once you've bagged them it's "all over but the shouting" as Frank Borman famously said on the Apollo 8 return trip.
The first key ingredient to be tossed in the cauldron is the road. It must have a balanced blend of straights, ups, downs and corners. In fact, it must have all the types of corners under the sun. Fast ones, switchbacks and those large, swooping ones – yeah, you know the kind – that make you smile, put an elbow on the window frame and invite you to take in the views.
The views, then. They are as fundamental as the road, if not more. To me, they are the real deal-breaker: no road can be truly enjoyed if all you can see around are flatbed trucks or industrial estates.
There are also other elements in my recipe – let's consider them those extra toppings at the bottom of the menu – such as smooth tarmac, no traffic, a radio station alternating Creedence and DJ Krush, but my best road needn't a fancy car in order to be appreciated. Sure, there might be a bit of a fox-and-grapes complex lurking around here but my best road is egalitarian: whatever the car hire roulette has blurted out, you'll enjoy it. How do I know? Well, I had a toffee-black Suzuki Vitara and I did. See if you can spot it in this video.
The start of my road, so I've decided, is at a landmark some 35km north of Borgarnes. As you drive north you'll see, on your right, Eldborg crater. Its name and meaning ("Fortress of Fire") will definitely appeal to the JRR Tolkien in you.
From there all you need to do is follow the road as it worms its way along the coast. It's that easy: keep the wet bit on your left and, as they say, Bob's your uncle.
It's not as if this is only a road to be driven on, for there's plenty to do in case you're the kind of guy or gal who enjoys a break every now and then. There's, for instance, a seal colony at Ytri-Tunga where you can admire our aquatic cousins perfecting the art of being fat. Or, but you need to be past the tip of the peninsula for that, you can hike to the top of Saxhóll volcano which, let me tell you, works better if you're not risking frostbite. Add the occasional team of Icelandic horses to the mix.
Click on any photo to start the slideshow.
Once you're past the cape the road snakes around hills and mountains abutting to the fjord in a parade of vistas where water and stone and snow continuously trade places. This is where you can find little gems such as black beaches or, of course, Kirkjufell mountain (be aware of awe-struck tourists walking in your path, though).Grundarfjörður is nothing but a blip before you get back in a wonderland that feels dragged out of a saga and often is.
If I had to choose, this is where the road's party piece is. Past a lava field is a junction: carry on forward for Stykkishólmur and the Westfjords, turn right to head back towards Reykjavík. That's where we are headed.
In this part the road, now no. 56, will run over the mountains that make the spine of the peninsula: what awaits is a spectacular journey amongst meadows, often blanketed by thick snow, and interludes of utter serendipity when the view is almost 180 degrees wide.
It is, alas, brief, over before you can say Eyjafjallajökull: soon the familiar shape of Eldborg will appear, this time on your right, heralding the end of the road and the start of the return. You might be tempted to say no and to U-turn for another round; go on, I won't judge: I might've done the same.
Posted in Europe, Iceland Tagged Ólafsvík, Borgarnes, Creedence, DJ Krush, El Búho, Eldborg, Europe, Fortress of Fire, Grundarfjörður, Iceland, Icelandic horse, Kirkjufell, Music, Road, Road Trip, Route 54, Route 56, Route 574, Saxhóll, Sea, Snæfellsnes, Snow, Stykkishólmur, Suzuki Vitara, Tourism, Travel, Video, Vitara, Volcano, Winter, Xica Xica, Ytri-Tunga 26 Comments
The worst-named animal in the world.
As far as names are concerned, few animals have had it as bad as the Orca. Popularly known as "killer whale" – a connotative appellative if ever there was one – they don't fare much better from a scientific point of view either: Orcinus Orca, as they are indeed known, means "Of the Orcus", the Roman god of the underworld, punisher of broken promises. Quite how it became the name for a marine mammal is something that only Linnaeus can answer.
– § –
Olafsvík was in the midst of a snow-clearing campaign. Two tractors fitted with huge blades were pushing mountains of the stuff away from the thoroughfares and into the harbour so that the little port had, by the time we arrived, assumed a Siberian je-ne-sais-quoi. We were early for our tour and had little to do but to idle about on the pier, eyeing our fellow tourists and watching the crew shovelling the snow off the boat that, we surmised, was going to have the honours. Typically, it was the tiniest in the whole port.
No, it was neither of these two.
– § –
Evidently not satisfied with just giving orcas a whole host of bad names, the western world never really managed to build a decent relationship with the animal. Pliny the Elder, the Roman commander and Attenborough precursor, began the smear campaign with lines dripping with vitriol, effectively calling them savage murderers. Fast forward to the modern age and orcas have alternatively been used for target practice or were kidnapped to toil away in our aquaparks.
– § –
The crew working on the boat was as Icelandic as a Sigur Rós album: nice, courteous, wool-hatted and completely no-nonsense. A name check was followed by the distribution of padded, waterproof overalls. Transformation into Michelin men completed the sailors corralled us, shuffling like beached penguins, onboard. Soon after we were chugging out of the harbour and into the deep, cold waters of the fjord.
Our sea-faring skills ranged quite a lot: we had the lonesome guy, Moby Dick tattooed on the knuckles, who drank builder's tea out of a flask the size of a submarine as he stood on the top deck, oozing comfort and savoir-faire. On the other side were those sad bastards whose knees and stomachs had already started trading places. If you're wondering on which end of the spectrum I was, well, I'll have you know that when Maria the guide found me I was already cowering in the lower deck, doing my best impersonation of an abandoned puppy. With well concealed pity she suggested I headed to the stern of the boat, stood up and looked at the horizon. Thinking it the stupidest idea ever I complied.
– § –
As years went by science managed to disprove the cliché of the evil and bloodthirsty orca that had held sway for so long. What Pliny described as a ruthless killer is now widely recognised as an incredibly intelligent animal with one of the most complex social life in the sea. Orcas have been found to live in a multi-layered social order run matriarchically, using a varied vocabulary that includes dialectal inflexions which they employ to organise some of the most astonishing hunting parties ever seen in the animal world.
Orcas have been observed teaching their calves a curriculum that includes both language and hunting skills: the pods living off Crozet Island in Argentina, for instance, coach their young on how to catch seals when they are wading through half a meter of water. Families in Antarctica would repeat attacks on Weddel seals – performed by triggering tidal waves that break the ice floes upon which the seals are resting – time and again until the calves can recite their part by heart.
– § –
Far from being stupid, Maria's suggestion turned out to be a stroke of genius: as soon as I wrapped myself around a sturdy pole, breathing in the cold breeze (and occasional whiff of diesel exhausts) I felt immensely better. For starters, the weather was gorgeous: clouds sailed by, urged on by a lively breeze, so that sun and shade were trading places amiably and the whole world was either gold or dark blue. A fishing trawler bobbed in the sea and, on the northern horizon, the white cliffs of the Westfjords beckoned. "People think it's Greenland" smiled a crew member.
The feeling of unease quickly washed away and I was getting used to the rhythmic rising and falling of our boat as we steamed out of the fjord, pointing east towards the open sea. In our wake were dozens and dozens of squawking seagulls: for a while I thought that we were following them in the hope to be guided towards the shoals of herring and the orcas, but then it became apparent that they were betting on us getting them to the fish. The whole thing was pretty ironic and even if it meant that we wouldn't see any orcas I still felt good about being able to overcome my fears.
Precisely at that moment the blower came to life and Maria announced, "Good news everyone".
– § –
Throughout the world, Aboriginal cultures nurtured views of the orcas that differed from the beliefs of the West under every aspect, views that – as scientific research intensified – were vindicated however posthumously. The First Nations that inhabited the Pacific coast of America from Alaska down to Oregon called orcas "blackfish" and considered them to be the most powerful fish in the ocean, reincarnation of famous chiefs or of drowned people. Almost every tribe considered their appearance to be auspicious for human activities. Yupik people living on the Chukchi peninsula, where Siberia ends in the Bering strait, offered orcas gifts as a way to ensure their support during walrus hunts; whenever they found an orca carcass beached on the coast they'd celebrate a funeral in its honour.
– § –
I remember the day – cold, wet and miserable – when I saw my first blue whale off the coast of Sri Lanka. I remember the feeling of sheer, unadulterated awe that swamped me as soon as the beast came to the surface not far from our boat, how it nullified the discomfort of that journey. I often wondered if I'd ever experience something like that again and what would cause it. The sight of an orca pod off the Snæfellsnes peninsula did it.
The pod was swimming west, commuting behind the shoals of herring that constitute their main staple, their fins – tall and straight were the males', arced like scimitars the females' – emerging at regular intervals. Often their heads would pop out too, perhaps checking out this boatload of excitable bipeds.
Click or tap on any photo to start the slideshow.
For the next two hours we were to accompany these beautiful animals in their meanderings. We were to encounter three pods and, our resident researchers said, a total of 30 orcas, each and every one of them recognisable because of the white patch behind their dorsal fin. We were to see them from afar and up close, from above and from below too when our boat was sinking in the through of a wave and they were riding its crest; we saw adults, juveniles and even calves. In one happy moment I caught a fleeting image that will remain with me forever: an orca's silhouette, pectoral fins extended, the delicate interplay of blacks and whites running across her body perfectly visible, as she swam inside a wave of green water illuminated by the shining sun.
Click or tap on any photo to start the slideshow.
Some around us were cold, some were feeling sick and some hadn't quite finished vomiting since we'd left the harbour but, thankfully, we didn't. The sheer beauty of nature kept us warm, happy and sprightly as Duracell bunnies.
– § –
Years of activism have succeeded in turning the idea of capturing juvenile orcas to turn them into attractions as despicable as the act of selling cigarettes to eight-year olds. Far from being killers, researchers will point out that no fatal attacks on humans have ever been recorded. Stories such as the remarkable one captured by South African photographer Rainier Schimpf – of a mutilated orca, unable to fend for herself – being supported for years by her pod sisters are, instead, the new anecdotes being employed when describing these animals. If ever there was a species in need of a rebranding orcas are them. Perhaps we should call them blackfish.
– § –
Suddenly the 'home time' marker was upon us. It must've come as welcome news to the sickest amongst us; for me, though, it was a farewell that I wished I could postpone. We turned east as the orcas kept on swimming nobly to the east. Their future is fraught with danger – climate change, overfishing, pollution, plastics – but, at least, everywhere they'll go people will now meet them with the same respect and awe that our aboriginal ancestors tribute to them.
Posted in Europe, Iceland Tagged Ólafsvík, Blackfish, Calf, environment, Europe, Fishing, Fjord, Herring, Iceland, Killer whale, Láki, Láki tours, Mammals, Marine Mammals, Matriarchy, Mountains, North Sea, Orca watching, Orcas, Orcinus orca, Photography, Sea, seagull, Snæfellsnes, Snow, Tourism, Travel, Trawler, Westfjord, Whale, Whale watching 26 Comments
Iceland doesn't score very high in terms of cityscapes. Granted, there are corners of beauty peppered here and there in Reykjavik but there's no denying that, besides those exceptions, towns and villages all around this island have a utilitarian air. They were built to answer a function, to solve a need, not to be admired.
The village of Grundarfjörður was, at least from the outset, not that different. There was no promenade by the shore but a harbour where pick-ups and fork-lifts manoeuvred in and out of warehouses. Homes and civic buildings all had a Spartan look; even the café-cum-library boasted a nude concrete floor which, we believed, must've been easier to clean than wood or tiles.
Yet Grundarfjörður had an undeniable allure. There was an air of frank no-nonsense, of affable helpfulness. No one, there, had neither time nor the interest for playing politics or to mess about. And there was the landscape. Honestly, you could plop any eyesore in such a location and I'd still stop, awe-struck, in contemplation.
We stayed at a small cluster of homes just outside of town. Our window opened on a panorama of mountains softened by the snow that kept on falling every night, but the real treat lied waiting just past the front door.
Our stay was brief; yet, halfway through it, we'd already gotten the measures of the place: which brand of cheese we liked, how to get the coffee machine to work and, as it's typical in villages, we begun recognising some of the villagers. The friendly bear-of-a-man who worked as the cashier in the store; the groovy café guy; the farm boys who drove snowmobiles every late afternoon.
Alas, we were to leave soon. On our last evening we stood outside the guesthouse as the sun sunk behind the horizon in an eternal crepuscule, hoping for some clear skies. Initially, though, that did not seem to be the case.
But then, at around midnight, a casual glance out of the window revealed a blanket of stars. We quickly tossed on some layers and braved the -8C armed with tripod and camera. Millions of stars twinkled above us and, before the camera's lenses, they began their slow dance. A fishing trawler, meanwhile, chugged serenely into port, its mission evidently done.
In spite of being late in the season we had harboured hopes of witnessing the spectacle of the aurora borealis. It was our last night and, if ever it was going to happen, it had to be now. Suddenly and without noise, but for the quacking of two quarrelling ducks in the stream beneath us, a grey band materialised in the sky. It sneaked elegantly across the bay, describing an arc from Kirkjufell to the mountain range to our backs. It looked like a cloud, but stars shone through it. As we weighted options the band became two. And then three, four, like incomprehensibly large amoebas whose Petri dish was the entire celestial vault. As the grey bands went about their business we waited with baited breath.
Then it began. From behind Kirkjufell a faint green curtain appeared. Pulled by an invisible hand along an unseen railing, the curtain worked its way across the fjord and up our heads. There it remained, dancing into the night sky to a rhythm that no one on Earth could hear, for a good ten minutes before it disappeared as gently as it'd arrived. As far as auroras went, we would be told later, this was a pretty weak show and it only left the faintest glow on our photos. But, yet, the sense of child-like wonder, the shiver of excitement at the sight of such a mysterious phenomenon was the best parting gift that Grundarfjörður could give us.
Posted in Europe, Iceland Tagged Aurora, Europe, Fjord, Grundarfjörður, Harbour, Iceland, Island, Kirkjufell, Light, Lights, Mountains, Night, People, Photography, Snow, Stargazing, Stars, Street photography, Trails, Travel, Winter 17 Comments
Snæfellsnes wide-angle.
The 9-18mm lenses I've just bought are, in the words of the photographer who won the chance of endorsing them, "perfect for panoramas".
In a rare astronomical conjunction where marketing met reality and they both shook hands with user requirements a set of wide-angle lenses was precisely what I needed, for Snæfellsnes turned out to be panorama country.
Doubter are you? Master Yoga would say. If so, allow me to show you some examples that, hopefully, will explain. (Just remember can you can click/tap on any photo to see it in widescreen format).
A storm brewing across the fjord.
The day was blustery to the extreme, omen of the waves of snowstorm that were to lash the coast throughout the following 24 hours. We were driving along the Hvalfjörður as yet another squall rolled in from the howling sea. I remember thinking "What if we took bikes?" and shudder despite the heated seat.
Lava field.
It was a short drive from Lýsudalur – 3 houses, one stable, something looking like a school – to Búðir, one hotel and a chapel. Between the two places a volcano, now long gone, had left a trail of scoria: a tormented landscape of corrugated rocks twisted and turned by incomprehensible forces. A lava field.
A dance of snow and sun.
We were having to stop every half-hour or so to scrape the powdered ice that would inevitably plaster itself all over the car's rear lights. As we did so the weather kept on turning like the mood swings of a spoilt brat: sun followed white-out and wind followed calm. Briefly, on the road between Hellissandur and Ólafsvík, we were able to witness that changing-of-the-guard moment.
The "most photographed mountain in Iceland", or so some claimed, lived up to its fame on a rare moment where the crowds with whom we shared it trickled down to just a handful of visitors impregnable to the icy wind, as well as a dog apoplectic with joy at the sight of snow.
Columbus' digs.
Within spitting (with wind in favour) distance from Hellissandur lies Ingjaldshóll. Once a farm; now a church, graveyard and not much more. As the story goes a young man wintered here after arriving at the nearby port of Rif on a ship from Bristol. During those long winter nights he came to learn more about the Vikings' voyages west, to Greenland and further on to Vinland. That man was none other than Christopher Columbus.
On the beach.
Echoes of Neil Young would be welcome if only Ambulance Blues wasn't so sombre. A beach just outside Grundarfjörður, deserted but for a man with a drone – thankfully far away. A black beach dotted with purple sea shells, flanked by white hills and covered, in places, by a thin water film over which the blue, golds and greys of the sky can run like a cinema screen.
Mountain views.
Past Grundarfjörður is a road turning right, running over the mountains that make up the spine of Snæfellsnes. That road, sneaking as it does up an inviting mountain pass, is an utter joy. And it's not just because of the driving pleasure: it's also gifted by great, great views. More on that later on.
The medieval chronicler.
Not too far from the Laugarsbrekka farmstead that saw the birth of Guðríður Víðförla is a locality known as Staðarstaður. There's a monolith there but, unlike that monolith, it hadn't mysteriously appeared to make apes intelligent. Soiled as it was by a sacrilegious bird, the monolith is a monument to one Ari Þorgilsson, cleric and XII century chronicler. Author of Íslendigabók, Ari told the story of Iceland between the times where she was settled by Norse outcasts and the conversion to Christianity. I don't know about you, but if, 1000 years from now, I could be remembered by a monument this grand in a place this supremely beautiful, it'll be a great, great satisfaction.
Posted in Europe, Iceland Tagged 9-18mm, Ari Þorgilsson, Íslendigabók, Ólafsvík, Búðir, Beach, Columbus, Cristopher Columbus, Europe, Grundarfjörður, Guðriður, Guðriður Þorbjarnardóttir, Hellissandur, Iceland, Ingjaldshóll, Island, Kirkjufell, Laugarsbrekka, Lýsudalur, Mountain, nature, Neil Young, Olympus, Panorama, Photography, Sea, Sky, Snæfellsnes, Snow, Víðförla, Wide angle 24 Comments


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Video game of Thrones is the title of the initial book in a yet to be finished fantasy collection by George R.R. Martin, qualified A Track Of Fire As Well As Ice. Video game Of Thrones is also a lately launched video game on 360 as well as PS3, a parlor game, a card game, a tabletop function playing video game, a comic, the topic of numerous iOS and also Google Play apps, and also an upcoming Facebook video game. It's also one of the most popular IP's around right now, many thanks mainly partially to the hugely prominent HBO program currently airing its second period, along with the DVD/Blu-ray launch of the Emmy and Golden Globe winning initial season, readily available now.
I'll be straightforward. I'm an advocate of the tenet that the book is constantly much better than the flick. Only in the cases where guide was composed initially, that is. If it claims "The novelization based upon the movie" on the cover, after that it's kindling. I'm snooty this way. Even when I know that guide is much better, since it's always better, I'm still sometimes attracted to see a film adjustment. Possibly it's due to the fact that a good friend, or naive doubter, says something like, "every bit comparable to the book." In some cases it's due to the fact that I'm such a follower of the resource material that I have to see just how they butcher it with my own eyes.
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Much of the discussion is directly from the unique, and in retrospection the pacing of the book is practically optimal for screenwriting. Over the program of 10 episodes we're introduced to a myriad of nobles, rascals, rogues and charlatans, however at the close of season one it is evident that the only real celebrities of the program are intrigue, the machinations of the court, and the things people will certainly do while going after power. Of program while people play their video game, the shadow of a bigger hazard impends.
It's difficult to reject that the show is outstanding, as confirmed by the previously mentioned Emmy and Golden World wins in Superior Drama Collection and also Best Television Series-Drama respectively. The casting is superb, and includes Peter Dinklage, that likewise won an Emmy for his portrayal of Tyrion Lannister, as well as Sean Bean as Eddard 'Ned' Stark. Bean is possibly best understood for his portrayal of Boromir in Peter Jackson's Lord of the Rings trilogy (Pleasantly surprised on that one, if you're keeping track).
The cinematography is exceptional also, as well as adds an aesthetic element somewhat doing not have in guides. Martin's writing is focused primarily on the personalities, and flowery descriptions of the settings are scarce. Mostly fired in North Ireland and also Malta, the sets and sustaining shots are lovely, and bring to life the maintains and castles in a way that Martin himself does not.
Game game of thrones season 8 full episodes of Thrones is the title of the first book in a yet to be finished dream collection by George R.R. Martin, qualified A Track Of Fire And Ice. Video game Of Thrones is also a recently released video game on 360 and also PS3, a board game, a card video game, a tabletop function having fun video game, a graphic book, the topic of numerous iphone and Google Play apps, as well as an upcoming Facebook video game. Even when I know that the game of thrones online publication is better, because it's constantly better, I'm still occasionally attracted to see a film adaptation. Either way, whenever I see a film based on a book I have actually reviewed, I always have one of 3 responses: 1) Happily shocked (i.e. Fight Club, Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas, Shawshank Redemption, The Environment-friendly Mile). In every instance, whether stunned, desporrified or uncaring, I still come away game of thrones season 8 episodes thinking the book is remarkable to the movie in every means.


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Published: 21st May 2019
Number Of Pages: 320
Earn 194 Qantas Points
on this Book
This book seeks to provide an introductory outline of the history and theory of knowledge production, notwithstanding the vastness of the subject. It is a brief history of intellectual formation or history of ideas. One can see it as a textbook of historical epistemology, which in spatio-temporal terms historicizes knowledge production and contextualizes methodological development. It addresses the historical process of the social constitution of knowledge, that is, the social history of the making of knowledge. Its objective is to make researchers knowledgeable about the significant elements that underlie the history of knowledge. These elements constitute contemporary compulsions that make and shape knowledge. Understanding what they mean and how they work is essential to prepare researchers as self-consciously realistic about the socio-economic and cultural process of knowledge production. What forces engender knowledge? How certain forms of it acquire precedence over the rest and why?-These are some of the questions examined. Who decides what knowledge means or what should be recognised as knowledge becomes important here. The discussion of knowledge systems is categorized under broad heads, namely the non-European-specifically the Indian-and the European. Examining the process of the rise of science and new science, the book also reviews speculative thoughts and imagination about the dynamics of subatomic micro universe as well as the mechanics of the galactic macro universe.
Format: Hardcover
Language: English
Number Of Pages: 320
Published: 21st May 2019
Publisher: OUP India
Country of Publication: IN
Dimensions (cm): 22.2 x 14.9 x 2.4
Weight (kg): 0.47
Earn 194 Qantas Points
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Villa · Sale · Alicante · Dénia · El Vergel
- Bedrooms: 3
- Bathrooms: 2
- Built: 152m2
- Plot: 1.248m2
- Energy Rating: In process
- Pool
- car port
- air conditioning
- alarm system
- garage
- barbecue
- terrace
- fitted kitchen
- off road parking
This impressive house is located in a corner plot or 1,248 sq.m. provided with a large pool, BBQ area with sink with hot water, chill-out area, exterior shower hot/cold, large garden and amazing panorama views. Thanks to the location and its own territory is very private and quiet. The house is distributed in 3 bedrooms (2 double and one with en-suite) and 2 bathrooms. There is a living room separate from the dining area where the chimney and the fitted kitchen is. From this area there is an exit to an open naya with views to the mountain and pool area. As seen from the pictures the the house gives a good feeling for a quality permanent living. The exterior is also a big advantage as it is well divide in different areas for different times and activities. It has a small storage house, an exterior kitchen with dining area overlooking the large pool and on one side this area that gives another resting and chilling-out possibilities. With all of this you can feel in a new place inside your own plot. Worth visiting it.The house is 1.3 km from the beach and 1.6 km from the centre. The Shopping Centre in Ondara is just 5 km away and the Golf in Oliva is 8 km from here. The international airports of Valencia and Alicante are at 100 and 105 km away.Garage, carport, all-year sun, pool 9x5, exterior kitchen, storage, double-glazed security glass windows, alarm, central A/C hot/cold, security exterior door, electric boiler, telephone, internet, mountain views, roof solarium, hot water in the exterior, etc.
Currency exchange
- Pounds: 398.290 GBP
- Russian ruble: 32.021.961 RUB
- Swiss franc: 497.846 CHF
- Chinese yuan: 3.452.001 CNY
- Dollar: 498.381 USD
- Swedish krona: 4.740.699 SEK
- The Norwegian crown: 4.356.767 NOK
- January 0 €
- February 0 €
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Computer Hacking | Week 2 |June 17 - 21
ONE SPOT LEFT - call the office for waitlist
EXPLORATION CAMPS | Ages 10 and up (going into 5th-7th)
Legal computer hacking builds problem solving skills, creativity, and understanding of how computers and the internet work. In this camp, students will be introduced to the world of cryptography, the art of cracking codes. Students will build an understanding of how computers and networks work and learn about the history of computer hacking. We will also discuss the ethics and laws of hacking so that students can appropriately and safely focus their interest, knowledge, and skills. Nate & Joseph
Camp Times: Monday through Friday, 9am-3pm. Beforecare (8-9 am) and Aftercare (3-5:30 pm) are available for an additional charge.
Cost: Unless otherwise noted on the registration form, $230 per week with no additional fees for materials. Funds through CYFD are accepted. Scholarships are available. Download Financial Aid Application PDF
Download Summer Camp Application PDF
Exploration Camp Ages 10 and up
|(going into 5th and up)
|Week 1 - June 10-14
|Computer Hacking
|Week 2 - June 17-21
|Comic Book
|Week 3 - June 25-29
|July 1-5
|Japan Camp
|Week 4 - July 8-12
|Minecraft 1 or Moving Images
|Week 5 - July 15-19
|Minecraft 2 or Stop Motion Animation
|Week 6 - July 22-26
|Hiking (5th & up) or D&D (7th & up)
|Week 7 - July 29-August 2
|Think Like a Mathematician (7th-10th)
|Week 8 - August 5-9


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text: HomeUpdateFree Workshops for bright future of new generation Free Workshops for bright future of new generation DwarkaParichay.com August 7, 2012 Update Tweet in collaboration with is organizing a Free Workshop on *Effective communication * Future Adults Date: 15 August 2012 Time: 11:00AM Venue: Ascent Academy , D-977 Palam Extension, Near ShikshaBharti School, Sector 7, Dwarka Registration: +91- 9871824122 Related Posts Water & Tea served by Vishal Mega Mart Condolence for Advocate (late) Sh.R.S.Dogra Understanding Climate Change-the Defining Challenge of 21st Century VINAYAKA CHATHURTHI CELEBRATIONS AT SRI RAM MANDIR Pongal Vizha & Children Cultural Festival on 25th Jan. Mrs. Priyanka Khurrana Goyal – India's Queen of Substance Delhi Journalists Association organized Kavi Sammelan The Many Moods of R.D. Burman – The Musical Event by Sangeet Smriti Draconian Decision by the Village Panchayat ! World Earth Day – 22 April Gippy Grewal along with Kainaat Arora and Jaggi Singh promote their upcoming film 'Faraar' Best baby products – see varieties INDOOR PLANTS BRING GOOD LUCK, WEALTH, PEACE & PROSPERITY. 1st All India Karate Championship in Delhi 'पुस्तक इंडियन एडवर्टाइजिंगः लाफ्टर एंड टियर्स' का विमोचन Messages for Dwarka Ramlila souvenir 2014 – Ashok Luv International polio awareness Rally by DAV Public School Dwarka Bipasha Basu to debut on small screen with Darr Sabko Lagta Hai! Leave a Reply Cancel reply


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