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Technical Problem With This Chapter?
Author: J Forias
Story: A Start
Part: A Start
Rating: Young Teens
Setting: Pre-HBP
Status: Completed
Reviews: 25
Words: 4,110
Updated: May 9, 2005, 2:26am
A Start
She was lost. She shouldn't have been. She'd promised herself not to do this. But his eyes simply swallowed her whole. They were the most amazing green and they played the part of windows, framing all the nobility and courage which moved so painfully within him. And then he turned away and she was robbed of being lost.
"I know you all need time… and I need a few moments to myself as well." He turned and left, his footsteps echoing softly for a time on the cold stone floors.
Ginny stole a glance at the rest of the small group gathered in first floor classroom and saw haunting looks of mortification on each and every face. They did need time. But she didn't – and with that thought in mind she turned and followed Harry out.
She caught up with him as he approached the lake. Students were all around laughing and shouting and enjoying themselves. It was one of the last truly warm days of the year with the threat of autumn readily apparent. The afternoon sun was beginning to consider its descent, and the shadows were slowly lengthening. Harry must have heard her coming and turned to face her.
"Ginny…" he began. There was affection in his eyes and yet she knew full well that he would murmur words of comfort and then usher her away. But Ginny Weasley was not going to allow that to happen.
"Thank you," she cut in abruptly.
"Thank you?" repeated Harry, obviously wrong footed.
"For telling me the truth. For sharing the prophecy with me. For trusting us." Her words were forceful but she paired them with an earnest smile.
"I do trust you," replied Harry. "You all earned the right to know what you fought for. I won't protect you from the truth like Professor Dumbledore tried to protect me. And… well… I know I was a bit of a prat, not wanting you to come to the Ministry with me and I'm sorry. You were… you all were… brilliant."
She couldn't keep herself from smiling. It meant a lot to hear those words from him.
"Would you like to walk with me Harry?"
She could have sworn she saw his face brighten ever so slightly as he nodded agreement.
"Well, Harry, you were a prat, but you were a noble prat."
Again she saw him smile. He must be well used to Weasley bluntness by now.
"Does that mean you forgive me?"
She grinned at him as they began to make their way beside the lake. "Of course Harry. Although I might not be so forgiving the next time you try to leave me behind."
As they made their way along the waterfront, the sounds of students' laughter began to fade. Finally they hopped over a number of moss covered boulders and found themselves in a small cove where the beginnings of the forest met the lapping end of the lake. Ginny sat down on a patch of grass just under one of the taller trees. The sun was still just high enough to reach them and flood the cove with comfortable warmth. Harry just stood silent for a long time. Ginny pulled her knees up to her chin and waited.
"I like it here," he said finally and moved to sit beside her.
Ginny nodded. "I come here when I need to think."
"What do you think about?"
She looked at him. He seemed honestly interested, as if the answer was important to him.
"Oh I don't know. I think about my family. I wonder what they are doing. I miss them you know… Mum, Dad, the twins… even Percy. I worry about this damned war. But I think about silly things, like Snape's latest essay or whether Sarah Thornton is still telling lies about me in the Slytherin common room. It sounds pathetic I know…"
"It's not pathetic," interrupted Harry firmly. "I… I've been wrestling with the same thing all summer. How can we justify what's important to us when so many bigger things are happening?"
Ginny smiled at him encouragingly before answering. It felt good to be talking about this kind of thing with Harry – even if she couldn't help but note a worrying edge to his voice.
"I guess we justify it by admitting that we're not perfect – that we are just human."
Harry was silent for several seconds and when he began to speak there was a tremor in his voice.
"I have to face down the most evil wizard of our time and either kill him or be killed by him with thousands of lives dependent on the outcome. And yet all I can care about is that my godfather is dead… and it seems so damn selfish."
Ginny was shocked to see that the strongest, bravest person she knew was shaking horribly. He was trying to hide it from her and had turned away. She reached out a hand to his shoulder.
"And I know I should be brave and stand strong and do all those things that are expected of me but… I can't do it. I'm so tired of doing the difficult things. Like just now, seeing the looks on your faces as I told you the truth. All I want to do is give up and find somewhere safe to curl up and hide away and…"
Tears were streaming down Harry's face and Ginny was struck by the contrast with the young man who had stood so confidently in front of his friends only minutes ago. He had been holding it all inside. She knew her heart would break for him if she didn't do something. Ginny pulled him to her.
"Sirius Black was a brave and brilliant man. He loved you in a way you never thought you'd be loved – as if by a father. And now you've lost him… and I don't care if you're prophesised as a bloody deity, you still have the right to grieve your godfather." Ginny's tone was powerful and filled with compassion.
Harry was incredibly simply clinging to her with trembling hands. Ginny had her arms wrapped protectively around Harry. She glared across the lake and at the world at large as if daring anything more to try and hurt him.
"But Harry, you haven't let it break you, no matter what you might think. What you did just now was proof – you reached out to your friends and… we love you too. And you can't lose that love and neither can you lose Sirius' love. Because it's a part of you now."
Suddenly Harry jerked himself out of her grasp. From somewhere deep within him she saw him dredge up the anger to resist – and she saw him cling to that anger. He was still seated eerily close to her but his eyes were blazing cold.
"People who love me get killed." Harry hammered out each syllable as if from icy steel. "And I'm not worth their love. I can't stand against him. When he tried to kill me this summer I stood limply by and watched – helpless! I had to be saved. Sirius helped save me, my parents saved me – all out of love. Well I'm not worth that kind of love."
Ginny watched his outburst with the most intense look of pain written across her face but she did not allow herself to be cowed. She jutted her chin forward and met his gaze fiercely.
"Harry, you are more worthy of being loved than anyone I know."
He looked desperate to deny it – she could see something close to panic beneath his eyes – but even he could not deny the belief in Ginny's words. Instead his anger faded and he looked tired. And now there was more in his eyes than just exhaustion. Harry was staring at her with gratitude and something else… something that made Ginny's heart miss a beat…
And then it was gone.
"What… what must you think of me?" stammered Harry in a forcibly jovial tone. "Crying all over you like a five-year-old. Come on we'd better get back before it gets dark."
"Harry, I don't mind." Ginny said sympathetically.
He smiled at her but there was something missing from his smile.
They walked back to the castle in silence.
It was a week later and Harry was still kicking himself. What had he been thinking? Sobbing all over her like that. The poor girl must have been terrified. The Boy Who Lived, the supposed hero, literally falling apart in front of her. Harry didn't like to think how he would have coped if he'd been in the same situation.
She coped quite well, a voice answered in his head. And with that Harry was caught up in the words she had said – and the way she had said them. He thought about other things like the amazing look in her eye and the exact place she had held his head against. And just how pretty she had looked staring down his despair…
She was being nice, replied the rational voice. She was comforting the poor little charity case that suddenly materialised in front of her. She couldn't possibly still think of you as the hero who saved her from Riddle after that pathetic display.
That thought bothered Harry for more reasons than one. He had known about Ginny Weasley's crush on him but he had never given it too much thought. He hadn't minded in the least when she was 'over him'. In some ways it meant that he had gained a friend. But now it was different. He guiltily realised that he wouldn't have minded one bit if she thought of him as remotely crush-worthy once more.
He was seeing her more and more often in and around Hogwarts. Well, perhaps he was simply noticing her more. He'd see her laughing at some fifth-year antics at the Gryffindor table or bustling through the corridors chatting animatedly to anyone in ear shot. He'd see her talking to Ron and Hermione, and Harry would quietly slink away. Each time he saw her he felt the most inexplicable jolt of nervous fear and was constantly fighting (or more often, not fighting) the compulsion to run away.
It was strange really because everything else in his life was better. Telling his friend's had helped. They now knew what had been bothering him and they were making one thing clear to him over and over again. Ginny had been right, they did care about him. And somehow her talk with him had helped ease the dull ache in his chest that he knew had been there since Sirius' death. Sirius was still with him. He heard his barking laugh and his mischievous advice with every situation he found himself in.
He couldn't help smiling at what Sirius' advice would have been with regard to the Ginny situation.
"Mr Potter, do you find something amusing about infusing essence of mortbark into an asphodel root suspension?"
Harry snapped awake. Professor Snape was towering over him and the rest of Advanced Potions Class was staring at him.
"No, sir."
"In that case I must presume that our local celebrity here was considering comical matters not pertaining to the infusing of essence of mortbark into an asphodel root suspension."
Harry would have apologised to any other teacher. However Severus Snape was a different matter. He glared coldly back at him.
"Perhaps he was fondly remembering the recent press releases hailing his heroics in the Ministry of Magic." Snape's eyes glinted malevolently.
Harry felt rage boil up inside him and was about to say something he'd regret when he felt a sharp kick to the leg.
"Professor, won't the mortbark's repulsory properties cause the asphodel suspension to separate?" Hermione sounded like she'd just looked up from her notes in front of her and had missed the altercation right beside her.
Of course nobody was fooled but Snape's anger was now directed towards her.
"Ten points from Gryffindor for interrupting me Miss Granger. It appears that once again your impertinence has managed to override you're parrot like intelligence. A single drop of vanilla essence binds the repulsory properties of the mortbark in order to stop the asphodel root suspension from separating. I'm sure that information was in one of the textbooks you pathetically memorised." Snape was practically snarling at her.
Hermione affected an air of polite bemusement.
"My mistake Professor," she replied calmly before returning to her notes.
Harry fought the urge to laugh and was sure he saw the corners of Hermione's mouth tweak upwards as he whispered his thanks.
Snape called an end to the Theory of Advanced Potion's class shortly thereafter. Hermione and he headed out of the classroom with the rest of the Gryffindors and Slytherins. Malfoy shot him a look of pure loathing as they passed but couldn't do anything with so many witnesses.
Harry was unsurprised to see Ron waiting for them as they exited the dungeons. He never seemed to like to be separated from Hermione for too long these days. But he was more surprised when Ron manhandled him rather roughly and pushed him into a nearby disused classroom. Hermione followed on behind.
"What's going on guys?" asked Harry.
"We're cornering you," replied Ron cheerfully and Harry was suddenly strongly reminded of the twins when they were set on a harebrained scheme. "We know you won't want to talk about what we're going to talk about so we've decided not to give you any choice."
"What are we talking about?" Harry looked vaguely amused.
Hermione stepped forward and took over. "Firstly, we are sorry we took what the prophecy said badly at first. I guess we always knew you'd be the one to face him Harry but having it confirmed… that there's no other choice…" She trailed off.
"You needed a minute or two to process it, I understood," said Harry kindly. "You all did better than me. On the night Dumbledore told me I trashed his office."
Ron laughed and Hermione looked like she didn't know whether to be amused or mortified.
"Although that was more to do with other things…"
"Sirius?" asked Hermione.
Harry nodded.
"We miss him too," said Ron in a rare moment of sensitivity. There was silence for a long while. "Anyway, to the point of this cornering. What is happening between you and my sister?"
Before Harry could stammer his innocence, Hermione broke in.
"We know she followed you out that day, Harry. We know that you've been avoiding her ever since. We aren't blind. We also know that you've been more like the old you since you talked to her…"
"And we know that you're hurting her. She's walking around like someone's ripped her heart out and it's because you're avoiding her." Ron looked almost angry.
"No she's not. She's been laughing and chatting and cheerful," responded Harry looking annoyed.
"She's my sister, I think I can tell," Ron retorted.
Hermione intervened. "You aren't the only person who can hide things Harry."
For some reason the comment shocked Harry. Of course other people could hide things. Harry knew that. Didn't he? Suddenly he was reminded of something Hermione had said a year ago when she listed all the feelings that would be plaguing Cho Chang at any given time. Was this what Ginny was going through?
"It's because of me?" asked Harry feeling guilty.
"Well there's no use moping about it, Harry. You are just going to have to fix things with my sister, aren't you." Harry could see that Ron was torn between protecting his sister and defending his best friend. This was confirmed when a wry grin appeared on his face. "Besides between you and me, the girls expect us to screw up from time to time. They know we have the emotional range of teaspoons."
Hermione looked impressed by Ron's grasp of the matter. "All the same, it is nice to see you acting like a teenager Harry, even if fate has sadly ordained it be the male variety. You can't get so swept up in prophecies that you forget to live. Sirius would have had a conniption fit if you ended up doing that."
Ron laughed and then began roughly pushing Harry towards the door.
"Right well we'd best get off to Quidditch practice. I hope our captain here will be able to keep his mind on the game."
Ginny saw the opening and dove – and sure enough Colin Creevey had seen it too and she found the Quaffle soaring towards her. She snaked out a hand, and in one blisteringly fast move had it tucked under her right arm as she twisted her broom away from an oncoming Bludger and towards goal.
She grinned malevolently as she sped at Ron. She feinted and then drove the ball straight down the middle. Ron who had flown right in response to her feint to shoot left managed incredibly to almost block the ball with his left foot. It was an extremely dangerous move that only managed to knock the ball through the leftmost hoop.
Ron looked bemused and sadly shook his head. Ginny shrugged at him in mock sympathy.
"Ok Gang! That's enough for now!" Harry's booming voice – aided by a sonorous charm – ordered.
They all flew down to the ground. Harry followed them from where he had been watching the training session. He looked as enthusiastic as he always did when it came to Quidditch.
"Colin, Ginny, that was a perfectly executed Beatson's reversal. Absolutely perfect." Quidditch was the only time these days that he met her eye. She knew he took his captaincy very seriously and that apparently meant that he put aside whatever repulsion he was feeling towards her right now. However this time his eyes seemed to linger and she thought he looked… guilty? She watched him turn away and force a grin at Ron. "Magical keeping, mate. But I'll take our Chaser's luck if it holds for the Slytherin match. Dean, Andrew, we need to work some more on tightening up the intercepting Bludger work but apart from that pretty darn good everyone. Now get out of here and get some food, we've earned it!"
Ginny hung back as the rest left. She was going to find out what was going on inside his head. Perhaps he was just being Harry, haplessly uncomfortable as usual, but she was afraid it was something else. She had practically told him that she loved him; had that really disgusted him so much?
She noticed Ron discreetly leaving them with the slightest hint of an encouraging smile at Ginny. When had Ron of all people started noticing things?
Harry turned to her. "Ginny, I'm so sorry. I've been being a prat again."
Ginny's mouth gaped open. For some reason this was the last thing she expected him to say.
"So, you have been avoiding me?"
Harry looked thoroughly ashamed. He nodded.
She was suddenly angry. "That's okay, Harry, I'm sure I'm quite the embarrassment to you. A skinny runt with bad hair blurting her feelings all over you."
"What?" He looked more confused than she had ever seen him. "You've got that backwards. In case you hadn't noticed, I was the one having the emotional breakdown. You were the one who… who…"
Harry seemed incapable of finishing the sentence but he was gazing at her helplessly with the sweetest look of admiration in his eyes.
"Who what, Harry?" She was honestly curious.
He looked away from her and stared at his shoes.
"Who put me back together again." His voice was so quiet that she almost didn't hear. Suddenly, he seemed to make a decision and stood up straight again. "Look, forget about that. I need to explain to you why I've been being a prat and then I'll leave you be to be angry at me or hate me or whatever…"
Ginny was too stunned to protest any of the ridiculous things he had just said. How could she forget Harry saying that she, Ginny Weasley, had put him back together again? How could she possibly hate him?
"The reason I've been avoiding you is because I've realised that I have feelings for you. I… er… like you as more than a friend. And don't look like that! I know that you are over me and I know that I was an idiot for waiting until it was too late. But I've just felt so humiliated after I fell apart in front of you… knowing that you'd seen me so weak and pathetic." Harry looked miserable, but there was the familiar noble courage as he put his heart on the line just so she'd know why he'd been acting stupid.
Ginny Weasley had always prided herself on her adaptability. Right now her entire world had been wrenched from its roots and then placed back down quite methodically on its head and yet she knew exactly what to say and do.
"Harry, you are such a prat," she said and then kissed him.
Harry was lost. Absolutely nothing was making sense. Ginny was kissing him and it was, to be perfectly honest, pretty breathtaking. She had her hands on his shoulders and was leaning into him and her lips were doing amazing things against his. Then she pulled back and for a moment her eyes were closed and there was an unmistakeable look of blissful contentment fixed on her features.
She opened her eyes and gazed at him. "Harry, you could never be pathetic to me. I owe you my life for pity's sake. To me you will always be the most amazing, brave and noble person I will ever know."
She kissed him again with a tenderness that made his heart want to explode. Then she stopped and looked up at him again.
"What you have to understand Harry is that I am not going to use your weaknesses against you. I'm not going to poke fun at you or make cruel jokes or jab you with them to see how much you bleed. Neither are your friends. I know your life hasn't been easy and I know that you had to hide how much you were hurting from the Dursleys. And you probably think you have to hide it all the more so now that people are counting on you." She said all this while looking sadly at him with great affection.
There was wisdom in her words; a truth that he had never really wanted to acknowledge. Harry found himself swept up in a flash-back of a child crying in a dark cupboard, all alone, finally able to let slip the passive mask that was all the defence the child had in the face of those that hated him. And now the child was the single lone hope of all he knew and loved. How could a child show weakness when failure bore so high a price?
Indeed Harry had felt thoroughly ashamed of his breakdown in front of Ginny even though a small voice inside had pointed out how much stronger he felt after talking to her.
"Harry, listen to me. You can tell me anything. Not only don't I mind, but I want you to open up to me – I've wanted it for a very, very long time." There was the by now familiar ferocity in her eyes. Harry thought of how proudly triumphant he had been on that night three years ago when he had slain her demon. And now here she was gladly facing his. He found himself wondering if he had been half as heroic as she was right now.
"Thank you." Harry had never meant two words more. And suddenly they were smiling happily at each other.
"Come on, let's head inside." Ginny looped an arm around him and leaned her head against his shoulder. They began to walk to the castle.
"You know something," said Harry. "I feel that there's been a decisive imbalance of compliment giving between us recently."
Ginny looked up at him in mock seriousness. "You know, I do believe you're right."
"Would it help if I told you that you were beautiful?"
Her smile became decidedly mischievous.
"It would be a start Harry, it would be a start."
A/N: Thanks to Tari for her brilliant beta assistance. Thanks also to St Margarets, Darker_Rage and prplhez8 who's comments, suggestions and general support gave me the confidence to submit this in the first place.
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I'll be the first to say, since my recent trip to NYC, I haven't been interested with the food scene in Los Angeles. The recent restaurant openings of Sotto, Son of a Gun, and Lukshon has not interested me one bit, and probably never will. However, when I was invited by Darin to a benefit dinner at the Breadbar in the Century City mall headlined by Hiro Urasawa of the famed Urasawa, I knew I had to try it. Ever since my previous dinner at Urasawa, I've been meaning to try his cooking again.
Along with Hiro Urasawa (Urasawa), we had Noriyuki Sugie (Breadbar), Michael Cimarusti (Providence), Walter Manzke (Formerly Church and State), David Myers (Comme Ça), and Ramon Perez (Sona) collaborating on this 6 course tasting menu. Priced at $110 sans tax and gratuity, all of the proceeds from this dinner (along with another dinner at Comme Ça) goes directly to the Japan Earthquake relief aid. A great cause, and hopefully for us, a great meal ahead.
|Bread Basket from Breadbar
You'd assume the bread from a place called "Breadbar" would be out of this world right? Sadly it was merely passable, but I enjoyed the soft butter that accompanied the bread. Since I wasn't here for the bread, it's no big deal.
|Canapé: Pumpernickel, Aged Lard. Artichoke Barigoule. Caramelized Eel, Sansho Pepper (Noriyuki Sugie)
NV Jean Philippe, "Brut, Blanquette de Limoux," Languedoc, France
Here to start: a trio of canape.
|Artichoke Barigoule
I'm a fan of artichokes, and I enjoyed this starter. This was a light and refreshing starter.
|Pumpernickel, Aged Lard
Next we have shaved lard on top of pumpernickel bread. While I enjoyed the taste of the aged lard (similar to lop cheung (Chinese sausage)), I didn't particularly like the pumpernickel pairing.
|Caramelized Eel, Sansho Pepper
This was my favorite of the trio. I enjoyed the sweet taste of the eel, which tasted similar to the eel found on Japanese eel rice (unagi don). The pineapple that went with the eel was a wonderful complement.
|1. Tartar Duo - Hokkaido Scallop and Marinated Salmon Roe, Wasabi, Shiitake Mushroom. Toro, Osetra Caviar, Takuan, Scallion (Hiro Urasawa)
Hananomai Sake "Katana" Junmai Ginjo, Japan
This was my most anticipated course of the evening, a dish by Hiro Urasawa, and it fails to disappoint. I enjoyed the flavors of the scallops and ikura, but the texture of the scallops were slightly mushy, but that said, it was a wonderful bite. The second tartar of toro and caviar was definitely my favorite of the duo. I hope I'm not being partial since toro and caviar are two of my personal favorites, but that mouthful was quite delicious. Along with the duo of tartar, the accompanied daikon flowers and vegetables were delicious as well.
|2. Soymilk Panna Cotta, Santa Barbara Sea Urchin, Geoduck Clam and Fresh Wasabi (Michael Cimarusti)
Epiphany 2009 Riesling Santa Barbara County, California
Next up was my favorite course of the night. The aesthetically looking, as well as the tasty looking dish was prepared by Providence's Michael Cimarusti. The soymilk panna cotta by itself reminded me of an unsweetened dou fu hua or tofu flower, which is a popular Chinese dessert. However when he added the Santa Barbara sea urchin, geoduck, tomatoes, wasabi and other components, it created something truly magical, epic even. This dish was one of the best things I've ate in the past year.
|3. Santa Barbara Prawns, Thai Curry, Spring Pea (Walter Manzke)
Jean-Marc Brocard, 2009 Petit Chablis, Burgundy, France
Eating this course really made me wish Chef Manzke would quickly open up a permanent place here in Los Angeles. The initial layer of the pea purée was creamy and delicious, but the second layer of Thai curry was even better. It went wonderfully with the perfectly cooked piece of prawn. I couldn't have asked for a better dish from Chef Manzke. Trust me, there wasn't a drop of curry or piece of shrimp left when I was done with this one.
|4. Charcoal Akage Beef, Maitake Tempura, Tsukemono (David Myers)
Fat Monk 2009 Pinot Noir, Central Coast, California
Next came what I thought was the weakest dish of the night. I've personally never had any of David Myer's cooking in the past, so this wasn't a good impression. Even though the beef and the maitake mushroom tempura was meant to be blackened and charred with the use of bamboo charcoal, I personally did not enjoy this technique. The mushroom quickly broke apart and was dry (though that was a given), nary of any flavor other than char. The beef itself was tender, but it wasn't anything special. Ultimately, it didn't look very good, nor did it taste very good. Even my camera had a hard time taking a picture of this dish. (Though it's probably my fault on the photography part)
|5. Sakura Cream, Black Okinawa Sugar, Alpine Strawberry, Cherry Blossom-Yogurt Sorbet (Ramon Perez)
Mizbasho Sparkling Sake "Pure," Gunma, Japan
Thankfully, we closed the night on a strong note with a dessert prepared by ex-Sona's Ramon Perez. The base itself was subtly sweet and delicious. The accompanied alpine strawberry was SO good, the sorbet was wonderful, and just as a whole, this dessert was truly delicious. This was my kind of dessert! The paired sparking sake was something new for me. I definitely need to get a bottle for myself.
|Mignardises: Chocolates, Marshmallows, Green tea macarons (Photo Courtesy of Darin Dines)
The trio of mignardises were great, especially the green tea macaron. I just wish they served it to the tables instead of placing it at the one corner of the room.
|Group Shot (Photo Courtesy of Darin Dines)
I thought the meal as a whole was very strong, even if there were a few thing I didn't particularly cared for. I do hope Chef Cimarusti would add that soy panna cotta to his tasting menu at Providence, because it was a definite hit with the most of us diners. In the end though, we have to remember this meal was more than for us to eat good food, but it was for a great cause. Bravo to all of the chefs who participated in this event!
Ibaraki Benefit Dinner at Breadbar
10250 Santa Monica Boulevard
Los Angeles, CA 90067

subset: commoncrawl


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Converting from R12 to R134 freon seems to be a subject that is in debate throughout the country as to what is necessary to complete the conversion. Many mechanics say that in-order to convert from R12 to R134 you should replace the compressor, receiver drier and expansion valve. It has been our experience with car AC systems that the original systems will convert to R134 without major complications. We do however suggest replacing the receiver dryer, all O-rings (included in the conversion kit along with the 134 fittings), the refrigerant oil and rid the system of all of the old oil by flushing the system.
The A/C system has lubricating oil that will leak out when the freon escapes. A very likely place to look is the ends of the A/C hoses where the hose is joined to the fitting.
Pricing for AC HOSES (AC Parts)
From Euwyuck:
There are Vacuum hoses that operate the ducts in the dash.
Check each outlet vent in every setting, including the windshield defroster.
If one or more has no air flow, the vacuum hoses (or 1 hose) could be disconnected.
Find it and re-attach it to the vent.
A roaring noise that can be heard when turning on the A/C can generally be attributed to a faulty A/C Compressor but can also come from a faulty A/C idler pulley. Compressor failure should be done by a professional technician only. Idler pulley failures can be identified by removing the belt and turning the idler by hand to see if the bearing has failed!
Cleaning a car: a piece of cake, right? Certainly, if you follow the procedures suggested by the Car Care Council. While it's the most basic procedure in car care, it does deserve some thought. The first step in cleaning the car is to wash it. Give it a good rinsing from top to bottom, including the wheels and inside the fenders. Always clean the tires and wheels before washing the body, and don't use the same mitt for both. This way you'll avoid contaminating the vehicle's paint with debris from the wheels and tires.
Use a good tire cleaner with a stiff brush, to improve your tires' appearance even if you don't have white sidewalls or white letter tires.
Next, clean the wheels with a wheel cleaner that removes the brake dust, which often blackens the front wheels. Application of these cleaners vary, so be sure and follow the directions on the container.
Now it's time to wash the body. Use a product sold specifically for automobiles. (Household cleaners can strip the wax from the paint and damage the finish.) Starting at the top, wash one section at a time, thoroughly rinsing away the soap. Work your way down toward the front, sides, and rear of the vehicle. Clean the rear last since it usually has the largest accumulation of dirt and grime, which can contaminate the wash mitt. Wash the inside door jams about once a month.
To rinse, remove the spray nozzle from the hose. Starting at the top, let the water cascade down the surfaces of the vehicle.
Then, to avoid water spotting, dry with a chamois or other product made for this purpose.
Now is an excellent time for waxing, which not only protects the finish but also makes subsequent washing easier. Before proceeding, look for foreign particles on the paint. Use a car cleaner, available at auto supply stores, to remove contaminants imbedded in the paint.
Once the surface is clean, apply the wax, following the manufacturer's instructions for application of the product. Often they recommend not using the product in direct sunlight
Proper Washing And Waxing Add Value To Vehicle
More than one-third of car owners use damaging non-automotive products when washing their cars-products that could contain harmful detergents, abrasives and additives. And almost half of motorists don't ever wax their vehicles.
"Waxing at least twice a year is recommended for maximum protection, yet surveys show that 48 percent of motorists don't wax their vehicles at all," said Jeffrey Webb, director of retail marketing at Turtle Wax, Inc. "That's leaving money on the table at trade-in time, as a clean, well-maintained car can be worth up to 50 percent more than one in 'fair' condition, according to the Kelley Blue Book."
Motorists should avoid dish detergent, which contains harsh chemicals that, intended to cut through grease, will strip away the wax finish on your car. Some are hard to rinse off and leave streaks. For best results, a formulated automotive wash is recommended, one that gently lifts the dirt and grime while protecting the finish.
STEP 1 Don't wash cars in direct sunlight. Do wash cars in shade or in cooler temperatures in the early morning or late afternoon.
STEP 2 Don't use dish detergent. Do use a formulated car wash
STEP 3 Do fill your bucket with warm water
STEP 4 Do use a soft terrycloth towel or washing mitt.
STEP 5 Do spray the car often with water.
STEP 6 Don't scrub the car all at once. Do complete one section at a time, rinsing repeatedly to prevent the soap from drying on the paint.
STEP 7 Do use soft terrycloth towels or scratch-free fabric to dry the vehicle.
STEP 8 Don't neglect waxing the vehicle. Do prep the car for waxing using cleaner/polish to remove contaminants
The reason that headliners sag on the car is because the foam between the headliner material and the glued portion of the material erodes with time causing the main portion of the headliner to sag. The only repair is to replace the headliner material by removing the headliner, pulling the old material off, cleaning the fiberglass headliner and gluing new material on. Your local upholstery shop can re-do your headliner for approximately $150.00.
On some parts you will need to go by this imiage to tell if you have an Alter 1 or Alter 2.
Order the correct Volvo car parts for your Volvo 850
The term ABS means ANTI-LOCK BRAKING SYSTEM. The ABS System automatically controls braking at the front wheels individually and the rear wheels as a unit (in most cases) preventing the wheels from locking during a hard braking situation. This enables the driver to maintain STEERING control and also shortens the distance to a complete stop. In cars without ABS, the brake master cylinder actually applied steady pressure to each wheel when the brakes were applied causing the wheels to look under heavy breaking. This led to wheel lockup, loss of steering control & lengthy stopping distances. ABS systems use a hydraulic pump that applies modulating pump pressure during heavy braking. The ABS system in effect pumps the brakes for the driver a consistent frequency. This pulsing is considerably faster than even the most experienced driver could accomplish if he were to attempt to this manually!
Pricing for ABS CONTROL UNIT (BRAKE PARTS (ABS))
Pricing for ABS HYDRAULIC UNIT (BRAKE PARTS (ABS))
Pricing for ABS RELAYS (BRAKE PARTS (ABS))
Pricing for ABS WHEEL SPEED SENSOR (BRAKE PARTS (ABS))
The first check the brake fluid. Fill it to the proper level. If the fluid level is ok, there could be a problem with a sticking relay contact and in hot weather, the higher humidity would make it worse. This may also be caused by a problem in the ABS Control Unit or one of the ABS sensors.
This can be caused because the pads are a little loose on their mounts, which itself is not a problem. When you change direction, they will slide up or down until they hit the caliper bracket. They could be dragging slightly on the rotors if there is any buildup on the caliper pistons or if the sliders are a little rusty.
Pricing for BRAKE CALIPER HARDWARE (BRAKE PADS ROTORS & RELATED)
Pricing for BRAKE PADS (BRAKE PADS ROTORS & RELATED)
Brake Master cylinder failures can often be diagnosed by noting that when sitting at a stop sign or stop light with your foot on the brake pedal that the pedal seems to continue to move toward the floor very slowly. The rubber seals in the master cylinder tend to wear around the edges causing leaking past the seals. Replacement of the master cylinder is the repair!
Pricing for BRAKE MASTER AND RELATED (BRAKE PADS ROTORS & RELATED)
In Most cases the problem with a hard brake pedal can be attributed to a faulty ABS pump. When the pump fails the pedal gets hard because the pump is no longer assisting during the braking process. In most cases the pumps are included in the ABS hydraulic units and cannot be replaced seperately. The cost of the New complete units range between 1500.00 to 2500.00 and used units are usually around 475.00 depending on the model.
Most car manufacturers do not recommend turning rotors because the majority of time after turning them they are below the recommended minimum thickness. The recommended minimum thickness is generally stamped on the rotors. This is not to say that car rotors cannot be turned. They can be turned one time but will generally warp within one year because of how thin they become.
Pricing for BRAKE ROTORS STANDARD (BRAKE PADS ROTORS & RELATED)
In most cases when you apply the brakes and the car pulls to the left or right this can be attributed to a sticking brake caliper. Depending on the application some calipers can be rebuild and in other cases the faulty caliper must be replaced. If your vehicle is equipped with ABS brakes you may find that the valve body in the ABS system is malfunctioning.
NOTE: ABS brakes are under VERY HIGH PRESSURE and should only be worked on by those who are properly trained!
Pricing for BRAKE CALIPER HARDWARE (BRAKE PADS ROTORS & RELATED)
Pricing for BRAKE MASTER AND RELATED (BRAKE PADS ROTORS & RELATED)
Pricing for BRAKE PADS (BRAKE PADS ROTORS & RELATED)
Pricing for BRAKE ROTORS STANDARD (BRAKE PADS ROTORS & RELATED)
If your brakes are dragging the most common cause is the caliper(s) are sticking and usually just need replacing. Other things that could cause this problem is having restricted brake lines and its not allowing the pressure to come off the caliper. It also could be an incorrectly adjusted parking brake cable.
Make sure the hydraulic fluid is at the normal level. If you have had to add fluid recently, you most likely have a leak. Check that the bleeding screw is not loose. If there are no leaks the problem is either the clutch slave cylinder or the master cylinder is failing. In most cases fluid loss can be found where metal hoses change into rubber hoses. The leaks can often be found at the junctions where the two meet.
If you have fluid on the master cylinder dust cover and pedal the rear seal in the master cylinder has probably failed. If you have it on the slave cylinder then in most cases the plunger seal has went bad or you have loose lines or a bleeder valve.
The light will stay on if any of the following are happening:
Faulty aternator or charging circuit
Alternator drivebelt defective or out of adjustment
Alternator voltage regulator inoperative
Almost every vehicle has headlight adjusters on top and bottom of the back of each light assembly. Most dealerships and independent repair shops use headlight aimers to adjust the headlights. It can be done without aimers by adjusting the beam of light to be directly in front of the assembly and about 24 inches off the ground. You can measure this by aiming the lights at a garage wall and making the adjustments. You will find that one of the adjusters will adjust the light beam vertical and the other adjuster will adjust the light beam horizontally.
NOTE: Some headlights have levels located in the lights assemblies. These levels should be adjusted at 0 unless otherwise specified by the owners manual.
Pricing for HEADLIGHT ASSEMBLY (LIGHTS & LENSES)
Pricing for HEADLIGHT ASSEMBLY & RELATED (LIGHTS & LENSES)
Pricing for HEADLIGHT LENS (LIGHTS & LENSES)
In some cases electrical contacts on the removable bulb holders get dirty or partially corroded, and then don't carry current well. This can cause the Brake Lights or other Rear lights to fail completely or to fail intermittently. Clean the contacts in the bulb holders and also clean the contact areas on all the bulbs involved. Use a small piece of emery cloth, or a piece of steel wool. You can also check the connections where the wiring connects to the lights. Clean away any corrosion and make sure the contacts are tight. Sometimes you can use needle nose pliers to gently tighten them.
Another component that fails consistently is the bulb failure relay. When this occurs you will get a light on the dash to come on meaning the relay is faulty.
Pricing for BULB FAILURE RELAY (RELAYS)
Pricing for TAILLIGHT BULBS & RELATED (LIGHTS & LENSES)
Your Volvo radio may not work after the battery has been disconnected. You may see OFF or CODE in the display.
Most Volvos have a radio code to prevent theft. This code usually is a 4 digit code that should be stored in a safe place at all times! When the battery dies you will need this code to make the radio play again, but sometimes the radio will go into lock out mode and say "OFF." The only way to get by this so that "CODE" is displayed again, is to turn your switch to the 2nd position on the key switch and let set for 2-3 hours until it comes up.
Once it has been reset you should be able to enter the code into the radio and should work. If you enter the code incorrectly it will say "RPT" and you get another chance to enter it in, but if you enter it incorrectly three times it will go back into lock-out mode and say "OFF" and you will have to restart the entire process.
If you do not have the code, you will need proof of ownership. Your local Volvo dealership can look up your radio code to enter in at no charge.
Sometimes the radio in your Volvo may not be the original. To get the code, remove the radio. Get the serial numbers off the unit and the Volvo dealer can look it up that way. The dealerships should not charge for this service!
On rare occasion the car will have to be taken to them to inspect it to make sure you get the right code. This can cost from $10 to $100 depending on your dealership and what they want to charge.
The following may be the cause of your engine backfire:
Emission system not functioning properly
Ignition timing Incorrect
Faulty Secondary ignition system (cracked spark plug insulator, Faulty plug wires, distributor cap and/or rotor)
Carburetor or fuel injection system malfunctioning
Vacuum leak at fuel injectors, intake manifold or vacuum hoses
Pricing for DISTRIBUTOR AND RELATED (IGNITION PARTS)
Pricing for IGNITION WIRE SET (IGNITION PARTS)
Pricing for SPARK PLUGS (IGNITION PARTS)
Generally, A roaring noise during belt rotation (without the A/C on) will often be caused by an idler pulley bearing going bad. There are occasions where Alternator bearings will also create a roaring noise during belt rotation. In-order to diagnose either of these problems simply remove the belt and rotate each of the pulleys by hand. The pulley failure will make itself apparent by noting that the noise begins when rotating the faulty pulley.
Pricing for ALTERNATORS & RELATED (ALTERNATORS & RELATED)
Pricing for BELT TENSIONERS & IDLER PULLEYS (BELTS & PULLEYS)
Some reasons are:
Idle speed too high
Excessive engine operating temperature
Incorrect fuel octane grade
Contributed by Zexrovnwaac:
A loud clanking noise from the engine belt area can often be attributed to a faulty crank shaft pulley (harmonic Balancer).
The crankshaft pulley is often designed in 2 parts & pressed together from the factory.
The problems often come from the material that holds the two part pulley together.
These materials will deteriorate over time causing the pulley to separate leading to one of the following symptoms:
A loud clanking noise as previously described or a loud squeak upon initial start up.
You can also identify this problem when you find that your engine continually throws the drive belts off the pulley for no apparent reason.
Pricing for CRANKSHAFT PULLEY AND RELATED (BELTS & PULLEYS)
A compression check is a test that is done on a car by removing each spark plug one at a time and putting in a pressure gauge in its place. The engine is then spun over while the gauge is installed. Once the engine has reached its compression the guage will stop. The guage should stay in the same area without going down and as long as the compression readings are consistent accross all cylinders then the head gasket or rings should be fine.
Pricing for PISTON RINGS (ENGINE PARTS INTERNAL)
Pricing for PISTONS INDIVIDUAL AND SETS (ENGINE PARTS INTERNAL)
Pricing for PISTONS INDIVIDUAL TURBO (ENGINE PARTS INTERNAL)
Fluid leakage is quite common on almost any vehicle type. The first thing one must do is to attempt to identify the fluid color in order to locate the leakage area. Red fluid is transmission fluid, Dark Brown or Black fluid is most likely engine oil, Light brown fluid is Power steering and pink or green fluid is antifreeze. Listed below is the most common issues with fluid leakage:
Red Fluid: Transmission Pan Gasket failure
Dark Brown or Black fluid: Most likely engine drain plug leak or engine oil pan gasket.
Light brown Fluid: Power steering hose failure
Pink or Green Fluid: Water Pump failure or radiator hose or heater hose failure
Pricing for HEATER HOSE (HEATING & COOLING HOSES)
Pricing for OIL DRAIN PLUG (DRAIN PLUGS & WASHERS)
Pricing for OIL DRAIN PLUG WASHER (DRAIN PLUGS & WASHERS)
Pricing for RADIATOR HOSE (HEATING & COOLING HOSES)
Pricing for WATER PUMP AND RELATED (HEATING & COOLING SYSTEM)
Pricing for WATER PUMP GASKET (ENGINE GASKETS & SEALS)
Pricing for WATER PUMP GASKET (HEATING & COOLING SYSTEM)
This can be caused by vapor lock or a sticking fuel pump check valve. A warmed up motor produces a great deal of external heat. Fuel must be kept cool to flow properly through the fuel lines and into the combustion chamber. If the fuel system is exposed to the engine heat, the fuel will vaporize and interrupt the flow of fuel to the motor. This is called vapor lock. A fuel pump has a check valve to prevent the fuel from flowing back toward the fuel tank and to keep some pressure to allow the motor to start easily without having to re-pump the fuel all the way to the motor. This check valve can wear over time causing it to stick and making it harder to start the vehicle.
Some reasons that would cause an engine not to start when hot could be:
Air Filter Clogged
Fuel not reaching the carburetor or fuel injection system
Injectors leaking
Corroded battery connections, especially ground
Reasons for this could be:
Incorrect ignition timing
Excessive play in distributor shaft
Worn rotor, distributor cap or wires
Faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs
Carburetor or fuel injection system malfunctioning
Faulty coil
Brakes binding
Automatic transmission fluid level incorrect
Clutch Slipping
Fuel filter clogged and/or impurities in the fuel system
Emission control system not functioning properly
Low or uneven cylinder compression pressures
Pricing for CLUTCH KIT AND RELATED (CLUTCH KITS & PARTS)
Pricing for DISTRIBUTOR AND RELATED (IGNITION PARTS)
Pricing for IGNITION WIRE SET (IGNITION PARTS)
Pricing for SPARK PLUGS (IGNITION PARTS)
Things that can cause a vehical to miss while driving:
Fuel filter clogged and/or impurities in the fuel system
Low fuel output at the fuel injection system
Faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs
Incorrect ignition timing
Cracked distributor cap, disconnected distributor wires or damaged distributor components
Leaking spark plug wires
Faulty emission system components
Low or uneven cylinder compression pressures
Weak or faulty ignition system
Vacuum leak in carburetor or fuel injection system, intake manifold or vacuum hoses
Pricing for DISTRIBUTOR AND RELATED (IGNITION PARTS)
Pricing for FUEL FILTER (FILTERS)
Pricing for FUEL FILTER (FUEL SYSTEM)
Pricing for FUEL INJECTORS AND RELATED (FUEL SYSTEM)
Pricing for SPARK PLUGS (IGNITION PARTS)
Engine oil leaks can be very hard to pin point. If it has been leaking for a while, everything is covered in oil but here are a few locations where it could be coming from:
Oil pan gasket and/or oil pan drain bolt plug gasket leaking
Oil pressure sending unit leaking
Valve cover gasket leaking
Engine oil seals leaking
Easiest way to find the leak is to clean the engine of as much oil residue as possible. Once its clean you can then start looking for the cause of the leak.
Pricing for CRANKSHAFT SEAL AND RELATED (ENGINE GASKETS & SEALS)
Pricing for HEAD GASKET (INDIVIDUAL) (ENGINE GASKETS & SEALS)
Pricing for HEAD GASKET SET (ENGINE GASKETS & SEALS)
Pricing for OIL DRAIN PLUG WASHER (DRAIN PLUGS & WASHERS)
Pricing for OIL PRESSURE SENSOR (SENSORS)
Oil leakage from the Valve Cover Gasket is a common problem on most cars. What generally happens is that the gasket heats up and cools down so many times that the gasket eventually hardens up to a point where it no longer seals. Replacement of the valve cover gasket(s) is the only repair
The most likely cause is using gas with a lower octane rating than recommended. Check your owner's manual. Another cause is carbon buildup around the valves keeping them from closing properly. A couple of treatments with a fuel additive may help. Follow the directions and make sure you use it on a full tank of gas. This is especially important on Turbo vehicles because of the added air that is forced into the combustion chamber. High test fuel = better performance. Other reasons for this would be ignition timing incorrect, carburetor in need of adjustment or fuel injection system malfunctioning, improper or damaged spark plugs or wires, worn or damaged distributor components, faulty emission system, or a vacuum leak. Knock sensor failures can cause engine knock on acceleration.
Pricing for DISTRIBUTOR AND RELATED (IGNITION PARTS)
Pricing for FUEL INJECTORS AND RELATED (FUEL SYSTEM)
Pricing for KNOCK SENSOR (SENSORS)
Pricing for KNOCK SENSOR (TURBOCHARGERS & RELATED)
Pricing for SPARK PLUGS (IGNITION PARTS)
If you crank your car up after it has been sitting for several days or overnight and it smokes out the tailpipe for a few seconds upon initial start up then the problem is more than likely leaking valve guides/Valve stem seals. What generally occurs is that the guides/seals wear due to the stress of the valve moving up and down so many times. This basically produces excess clearance between the valve guide and the valve stem. Minor seepage occurs during the rest period allowing oil to leak into the combustion chambers leading to morning smoke!
Pricing for VALVE STEM SEAL (ENGINE GASKETS & SEALS)
Pricing for VALVE STEM SEAL (ENGINE PARTS INTERNAL)
One common cause of stalling is vacuum leaks. Check all vacuum hoses and fittings including all large hoses. If your Volvo is equipped with emissions equipment such as a charcoal evaporative canister, the end of the hoses sometimes crack over time creating a vacuum leak. Stalling can also be caused by an erratic Fuel Control Module. Note: On some vehicles this is called the Electronic Control Module. This might be indicated if the motor almost stalls when you accelerate from a stop and then suddenly slams up to full power.
Other reasons could be that the idle speed is incorrect, fuel filter clogged and/or water and impurities in the fuel system, distributor components damp or damaged, faulty emissions system components, faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs, or faulty spark plug wires.
Pricing for FUEL PUMP CONTROL UNIT (FUEL SYSTEM)
Reasons for an engine to start then stop immediately could be:
Loose or faulty electrical connections at distrbutor, coil or altenator
Insufficient fuel reaching the carburetor or fuel injection system
Malfunctioning fuel injection system
Faulty fuel injection relays
From a Customer:
I had this same issue on my 2005 XC70. I was able to get the car running
by disconnecting the MAF sensor wiring.
In troubleshooting I found that the air intake path on the boost side of
the turbo had opened at one of the connections. This loss of pressure
apparently gave the ECM unusual and probably incompatible readings.
I am not happy that it did not give a code since they could using the MAF
determine that there was significant air entering the engine and the turbo
pressure sensor at the output of the intercooler would indicate there was
low pressure. So this condition of an open intake high pressure could be
detected and flagged by the ECM if they had only thought of it. Diagnosing
using engine codes is only as good as what the engineers designed it to
Pricing for FUEL INJECTION RELAY (FUEL SYSTEM)
Pricing for FUEL INJECTION RELAY (RELAYS)
Pricing for FUEL INJECTORS AND RELATED (FUEL SYSTEM)
Here are some reasons it may be stumbling:
Spark plugs fouled (dirty with gas or oil)
Carburetor or fuel injection system malfunctioning
Fuel filter clogged
Incorrect Ignition Timing
Intake Manifold air leak
Pricing for FUEL FILTER (FILTERS)
Pricing for FUEL FILTER (FUEL SYSTEM)
Pricing for FUEL FILTER SEAL (FILTERS)
Pricing for FUEL FILTER SEAL (FUEL SYSTEM)
Pricing for SPARK PLUGS (IGNITION PARTS)
The most common cause for engine surging is a vacuum leak in one of the hoses, other causes could be intake air leak, fuel pump or carburetor faulty, loose fuel injector harness connections, defective ECU. Check all vacuum hoses including the ones for the emission components.
Engine vibration in drive or reverse may be due to faulty or failing engine mounts. What usually happens is the rubber portion of the engine mounts deteriorate causing the vibration from engine rotation to travel through the vehicle. You may be able to find the faulty mount by shifting from drive to reverse with the engine running and your foot on the brake. This cause the engine mounts to come under load and you may see the telltale signs of movement that indicate a bad mount.
Pricing for ENGINE MOUNTS (MOTOR MOUNTS)
Pricing for ENGINE MOUNTS 1998-2000 (MOTOR MOUNTS)
Pricing for ENGINE MOUNTS 1998-2004 (MOTOR MOUNTS)
White smoke coming from the engine area may be caused by one of the following reasons.
|Turbo Failures: Your Volvo turbocharger could be failing. If the seals in the turbocharger go bad, the turbo may cause puffs of white smoke from the exhaust when coming to an idle or begin to smoke terribly when idling for long periods of time.
|Head Gasket Leaking: The head gasket may be leaking into the combustion chamber(s) overnight which leads to white smoke coming from the exhaust (really steam) during cold start. Once the engine is warm this smoke will disappear because it is actually burning the coolant from within the combustion chamber. Head gasket failure between two cylinders is usually the problem. You can often determine if this is the problem by removing the spark plugs to see if any of the piston tops are silver which is an indication that the coolant being burned is cleaning the carbon from the piston top.
|Valve guide/Seal Issues: Valve guide failure can cause the engine to smoke during startup. This usually indicates a problem with either the work guides or valve stem seals which allows oil to leak past them once the engine is turned off. Rebuilding or replacing the cylinder head is the only cure.
Pricing for HEAD GASKET (INDIVIDUAL) (ENGINE GASKETS & SEALS)
Pricing for HEAD GASKET SET (ENGINE GASKETS & SEALS)
Pricing for TURBOCHARGERS (TURBOCHARGERS & RELATED)
Pricing for VALVES (ENGINE PARTS INTERNAL)
Pricing for VALVE STEM SEAL (ENGINE GASKETS & SEALS)
Pricing for VALVE STEM SEAL (ENGINE PARTS INTERNAL)
Vibrations in a car can be caused by a number of issues. In most cases the vibrations come from engine mounts but they can also come from transmissions, wheel bearings, out of round tires or out of balance, worn out U-joint, or damaged axelshafts.
Pricing for FRONT WHEEL HUB & RELATED (WHEEL BEARINGS & RELATED)
Pricing for REAR WHEEL BEARING (WHEEL BEARINGS & RELATED)
Pricing for REAR WHEEL HUB & RELATED (WHEEL BEARINGS & RELATED)
Your Volvo may have a faulty Converter if your Volvo will not accelerate or has severely diminished power. If your Volvo has these symptons, the converter may be clogged. If it is clogged, it may glow red while the engine is running. That happens when excessive unburnt fuel causes the converter to overheat as it burns off the unburnt fuel. One quick test can help to confirm if the converteris clogged. Temporarily disconnect the exhaust from the header to keep the exhaust gases from flowing through the converter. If the converter is the problem your Volvo's power will be restored to normal with the header pipe temporarily disconnected.
The only legal repair is to replace the converter with a new unit.
NOTE: The primary cause of converter failure is because the Oxygen Sensor(s) have not been regularly replaces. If you replace the converter be sure to also replace the sensors.
Pricing for 1993-1997 NON-TURBO EXHAUST SYSTEM (EXHAUST PARTS NON-TURBO)
Pricing for EVAPORATIVE CANNISTER (EMISSIONS PARTS)
Pricing for EVAPORATIVE CANNISTER (WEATHERSTRIP MOULDINGS)
Pricing for MISC EXHAUST (EXHAUST PARTS)
Pricing for OXYGEN SENSOR (FUEL SYSTEM OXYGEN SENSORS)
Salvage yards usually will not sell Used catalytic converters due to strict Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) regulations.
The EPA considers it a violation of law to install a used converter from a Salvage yard or to sell it for
reuse unless it has been properly tested and certified that it meets EPA standards.
And the catalytic converter must be properly labeled.
An auto repair facility or muffler shop is not even allowed to re-install the converter that was originally on your Volvo if you bring it to them for installation.
Violators can be subject to a $25,000 fine.
Swedish Auto Supply only sells converters that meet EPA standards and we DO NOT sell used Converters.
It is common to see water coming out of the tailpipe in the morning. Most of time water accumulates in the exhaust system due to the difference in the exhaust to air temperature that occurs overnight. This condensation is common and only happens upon initial startup. The only time to be concerned about that water coming out of the tail pipe is when the water begins to have a sweet smell. A strong sweet smell is an indication that there is a headgasket issue causing coolant to leak into the combustion chamber which then gets burned on startup. This burning of the coolant creates a sweet smell that goes away within a few minutes (once it is all burned out of the cylinder where the leak occurs). In most cases you can determine which cylinder the leak is in by removing the spark plug and looking down into the cylinder. If the piston is silver and not black then that is a good indication that the steam created by the coolant being burned is actually cleaning the black carbon (created from burned fuel) from the piston top. If you see this then there is definately a problem with coolant leaking into the combustion chamber of that one cylinder.
The exhaust system is designed to carry away the engine's exhaust gases with a low flow resistance, low noise level and a long operating life. The exhaust system has two parts: a front part with a catalytic converter, and a rear part with one or two mufflers. Mufflers are a combination of resonance and noise absorption material. The exhaust system is held up by rubber mounts and uses clamps to connect the main parts.
In Most cases faulty Converters can be identified by noting that your Volvo will not accelerate or seems to have severely diminished power. Many times converters that are clogged up will glow red when your Volvo is running. The reason for the Glowing is because of the amount of heat and unburned fuel that collects in front of the clogged up converter. Converter replacement is the only option. A quick way to be sure that the converter is the problem when it is suspect is to temporarily disconnect the exhaust system at the header and allow the exhaust to flow without going through the converter. If the converter is the problem the cars power should be restored with the header pipe temporarily disconnected.
NOTE: It is illegal to drive your Volvo with the exhaust disconnected. If the converter is bad, the only legal remedy is to replace the converter.
A harsh smell coming from the exhaust can usually be attributed to the use of fuel that contains methanol (Although in most places it is not supposed to be sold). When using this fuel, a sulfur smell can be emitted from the exhaust which can range from a mild odor to a rotten egg smell. To avoid this smell try changing the place where you purchase fuel! Catalytic Converter failures can also cause this same smell!
The most common Exhaust failures are mufflers. You can often easily diagnose issues with the exhaust system by placing a rag or towel over the tailpipe hole (Just for a few seconds). BE CAREFUL AS THE EXHAUST MAY BE HOT!!!!! When you cover the tailpipe hole up for a few seconds pressure builds in the exhaust system and a whistling noise will begin to occur wherever your exhaust leak is.
Pricing for 1993-1997 NON-TURBO EXHAUST SYSTEM (EXHAUST PARTS NON-TURBO)
Pricing for EVAPORATIVE CANNISTER (EMISSIONS PARTS)
Pricing for EVAPORATIVE CANNISTER (WEATHERSTRIP MOULDINGS)
Pricing for MISC EXHAUST (EXHAUST PARTS)
The exhaust system is designed to carry away the engine's exhaust gases with a low flow resistance, low noise level and a long operating life. The exhaust system has two parts: a front part with a catalytic converter, and a rear part with one or two mufflers. Mufflers are a combination of resonance and noise absorption material. The exhaust system is held up by rubber mounts and uses clamps to connect the main parts.
Question: I have a new battery and alternator but still not keeping my battery charged.
Answer: First check to be sure the alternator belt is not too loose. If so, it will slip and reduce the voltage coming from the alternator.
About 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch of play should be about right when you push down on the alternator belt.
And you should not hear any squealing from the belt while the car is running.
Next, check the battery cables for corrosion.
If they are old, they could have corrosion that has worked it's way up under the outer covering.
If so, you may not be getting enough voltage to the battery.
Use a battery charger to get a full charge on the battery.
Start the car and use a volt meter on the battery terminals to check the voltage coming from the alternator.
It should read close to or just above 13.5 volts. If not, you may need new battery cables.
Finally, if the voltage is correct, then there is a power drain from something that is running or there is a dead short somewhere.
You will just have to listen and look carefully for the source.
See more about this topic at Volvo 240, Volvo 260 Forum
Pricing for ALTERNATORS & RELATED (ALTERNATORS & RELATED)
Pricing for BATTERY & RELATED (ALTERNATORS & RELATED)
Your Volvo may surge randomly.
Can be caused by a faulty engine temperature sensor.
On some Volvo cars it is located on the intake side of the engine near the firewall.
It is a good idea to flush the cooling system and add new coolant.
Some reasons for the mileage being lost can come from dirty or clogged air filter(s) which is the most common problem. Other more technical reasons would be due to timing not being correctly set, there is a problem with the emission system, the carburetor or fuel injection system is not working properly, or low tire pressure or wrong sized tire.
Another issue that can cause less mileage on a tank of gas would be wheel alignment. If the tires are toed in or out (toe is referring to if the front of the tires are turned in at each other or pointing out away from each other). Toe can be effected by pot holes and hitting curbs. You can tell if the tires are toed in by the car wanting to dart back and forth on the road and toed out by it having slower acceleration and works the engine harder to do the same amount of speed as before.
Most times it can be adjusted back to specs but on rare occasion such as a wreck or hitting a curb hard you may have to replace parts such as tie rods, tie rod ends, and any steering part that was damaged.
Pricing for AIR FILTERS (FILTERS)
When you get a code or reading stating that you have a problem with the secondary air intake, it is referring to SAS or secondary air system. What this system will do is under certain conditions pump air into the exhaust system to aid in heating the catalytic converter. The main problem that causes you to get this code is the fuel pump of fuel pump check valve has went bad in the system but you will have to test everything in the system to accurately diagnose the problem. The air pump could also be defective. Use a scan tool to test it correctly.
Pricing for AIR PUMP CONTROL VALVE (FILTERS)
Pricing for AIR PUMP RELAY (RELAYS)
Pricing for AIR PUMPS (FILTERS)
Pricing for FUEL PUMP AND RELATED (FUEL SYSTEM)
Asbestos is a naturally occurring mineral that has crystals from long thin fibers. It became very popular with manufactures and builders in the late 19th century due to its resistance to heat, electrical, chemical damage, sound absorption and tensile strength.
On automobiles it can be found in brakes, gaskets, and clutch disc on the older cars. Since about the mid 1980's parts containing asbestos have been eliminated.
When working on a car that may have parts with asbestos always wear a breathing apparatus to avoid inhaling the dust as much as possible. Exposure to this for a long period of time can lead to serious illnesses like mesothelioma.
A Low pitched clicking noise that comes from the cabin fan is an indication of bearing failure within the cabin fan. Cabin fan access will depend on the car. In most cases the cabin fan is located under the hood and under the false bulkhead. In some cases the cabin fan is located inside the car under the dash.
Pricing for CABIN FAN MOTOR (CABIN FANS & RELATED)
Pricing for CABIN FAN MOTOR (HEATING & COOLING SYSTEM)
Poor circulation of coolant can cause overheating. Common problems that are associated with poor circulation is a bad water pump or impeller, restrictions from debris in the system, drive belt for the water pump has broken or loose, or thermostat may be sticking. It is quite common to see water pumps leaking from the weap hole in the pump bottom. Replacement of the pump is the only cure.
Other problems that can cause poor circulation would be collapsed hoses leading to and from the radiator. When replacing hoses its best to buy direct replacement hoses, if you buy just a flex hose make sure its the right lenght to avoid it being too long and becoming crimped.
Pricing for ANTIFREEZE (FLUIDS & SEALANTS)
Pricing for ANTIFREEZE (HEATING & COOLING HOSES)
Pricing for ANTIFREEZE (HEATING & COOLING SYSTEM)
Pricing for BELTS (ALTERNATORS & RELATED)
Pricing for BELTS (BELTS & PULLEYS)
Pricing for BELT TENSIONERS & IDLER PULLEYS (BELTS & PULLEYS)
Pricing for HEATER HOSE (HEATING & COOLING HOSES)
Pricing for WATER PUMP AND RELATED (HEATING & COOLING SYSTEM)
Internal coolant leaks can be very harmful to your engine and can lead to engine failure if not taken care of very quickly.
The way to tell if you have an Internal coolant leak would be by your coolant level dropping with no signs of it on the ground. You can check by inspecting your oil. If the oil has a milky white tent to it then you have an internal coolant leak.
Coolant leaks as such would be a cylinder head gasket being blown, you can usally tell this by the oil having the milky white tent to it and also having an excess amount of condinsation in the tail pipe(s). This can cause lots of problems if not taken care of as soon as possible, it could possibly bust pistons, bend rods, and cause the cylinder sleeve to bust due to the little bit of capacity that the cylinder already has and having the extra coolant filling that up and when the piston come up it has no where to go on an intake stroke and thats when stuff bends and bust.
Another place it could be leaking from is the cylinder head if it is cracked. Most of the time a cracked cylinder head comes from overheating an engine.
Coolant leaks are a common problem with just about any vehicle old and new. The older cars most of the time will have deteriorated or damaged hoses going to the radiator or for the heating system. Some problems come from just clamps being loose and others can come from water pump seals and gaskets, from the radiator core or heat core, engine drain, or water jacket freeze plugs leaking or have come completely out.
Other things that can cause problems is if something has punctured the radiator by it coming up off the road or if a coolant hose comes in contact with a moving part.
Coolant loss can be potentionally a dangerous thing if it goes unattended. It can come from over filling the coolant system, overheating the engine and pressure forces it out, internal and external leaking (check our other FAQ on these two subjects), or a faulty radiator cap. If you have problems with the radiator cap most of the times is because the recommended pressure for your car is less then what the cap is made for. Always be sure to get the right cap for your car to avoid any problems with coolant loss or overheating. Always fill your coolant resivoir to what your car is made to handle, don't over fill this thinking it will last longer because you will get the exact opposite reaction.
For the 1996 Volvo 850.
When replacing the heater core coupling on the firewall it helps todisconnect the gas pedal return pivot
and rotate the pivot attached to thetop of the gas pedal 180 degrees and remove the pivot.
Also make sure the cutout is facing down and left.
Thanks to William Byrne
Pricing for HEATER CORE (HEATING & COOLING SYSTEM)
Engine Overheating is caused by anything that leads to the loss of coolant, preventing the coolant from getting rid of heat or causes excess heat in the engine itself.
Somethings that can lead to engine overheating could be coolant leaks from parts of the engine such as the water pump, radiator, heater core, hoses, freeze plugs, head gasket, and other internal engine parts. Other things like the radiator cap not rated strong enough to hold the pressure, cooling system may be clogged by deposits building up in the radiator, thermostat stuck shut, anything dealing with the fan such as relays or switches for electric fans, fan clutch for manual, missing parts of the fan shroud, slipping fan belt on manual fans, bad water pump impeller, collapsed coolant hoses, debris in the radiator, timing on engine off, restrictions in the exhaust system, or undersized radiator or fan.
There are many things that can be the suspect when dealing with an overheating problems but with running the proper test it should narrow down to a few possible problems!
Pricing for HEAD GASKET (INDIVIDUAL) (ENGINE GASKETS & SEALS)
Pricing for HEAD GASKET SET (ENGINE GASKETS & SEALS)
Pricing for THERMOSTAT HOUSING AND RELATED (ENGINE GASKETS & SEALS)
Pricing for THERMOSTAT HOUSING AND RELATED (HEATING & COOLING SYSTEM)
Reasons for the engine not to start while the starter is being opertated would be:
Dead battery (recharge, use jumper cables, or push start)
Battery terminals are loose or corroded
Battery ground strap loose or broken
Engine ground strap loose or broked
Starter motor (or solenoid) wiring loose or broken
Automatic transmission selector in wrong position, or inhibitor switch defective
Ignition/Starter switch defective
Major mechanical failure (seizure)
Starter or solenoid internal fault
Faulty Cam Sensor
Faulty Crank Sensor
Engine Cold Start Issues:
Battery discharged or low
Fuel system malfunctioning
Injectors leaking
Distributor rotor carbon tracked
Engine Hot Start Issues:
Air Filter Clogged
Fuel not reaching the carburetor or fuel injection system
Injectors leaking
Corroded battery connections, especially ground
This is some reasons why the starter turns the engine slowly:
Partially discharged battery (recharge, Use jumper cables, or push start)
Battery terminals loose or corroded
Battery ground to body defective
Engine ground strap loose
Starter motor (solenoid) wiring loose
Starter motor internal fault with Starter Bendix
Intermittent no starts can often be attributed to ignition switch failures (the electrical portion). More often than not, mechanics change the starter because the symptoms lead them to the starter as being the source of the problem. In reality what generally occurs is that the voltage going to the starter is less than adequate to COMPLETELY turn over the engine. This is not to say that Starter assemblies do not fail because they do, but an occasional ignition switch problem can be a difficult problem to diagnose. In most cases when the starter fails it will be the starter solenoid failing noted by a click, click when attempting to start. Make sure that you check to see if you have 12 volts at the solenoid prior to replacing the starter. If you do not have 12 volts at the solenoid then look to the ignition switch as the problem area!
Pricing for IGNITION SWITCH (IGNITION PARTS)
Pricing for IGNITION SWITCH (SWITCHES)
Pricing for STARTERS (STARTERS)
Reasons for starter being noisy or rough can be:
Pinion or flywheel gear teeth worn or broken
Starter motor mounting bolts loose or missing
Some reasons why a starter is spinning but not turning the engine could be:
Flywheel gear teeth damaged or worn
Starter motor mounting bolts loose
A whining or high pitched whirring noise that occurs at initial start up can often be attributed to a faulty starter assembly. Another area to look at is the tension of the belt. Weak belt tension can also cause a high pitched whine on initial start up!
Pricing for STARTERS (STARTERS)
A whining or high pitched whirring noise when you first start your Volvo may indicate a faulty starter assembly. When you attemp to crank your Volvo and the starter just clicks you likely have an issue with the starter solenoid sticking which means the starter drive needs to be replaced. We have seen issues with both the solenoid and the bendix (not sold seperately)
Pricing for STARTER RELAY (RELAYS)
Pricing for STARTERS (STARTERS)
Replacement of the headlight lens instead of the whole assembly is possible but it basically depends on whether or not the outer part of the headlight assembly is available separately for your Volvo.
In some cases an insert (which is the outeer part and the housing it is attached to) can be replaced.
Insert replacement is easy but be very careful not to break the ears off the insert off when trying to push the insert into the headlight frame.
Lens replacement is easy.
Remove the clips that hold the lens to the lens housing and replace the gasket and clips to attach the new lens.
On some models, you will need to remove the entire headlight assembly.
On older Volvos, the lens is glued to the housing with clear silicone or glue.
To loosen the glue, remove the lens and housing and soak for several hours in warm water.
Carefully use a sharp knife to separate the lens from the housing and clean off the residue from the housing.
Use clear silicone to attach the new lens and secure with masking tape until the silicone cures.
After curing (see silicone package for cure time), remove the tape and carfully reinstall.
Pricing for HEADLIGHT ASSEMBLY (LIGHTS & LENSES)
Pricing for HEADLIGHT LENS (LIGHTS & LENSES)
Hard Steering can often be attributed to binding front suspension components such as tie rod ends or ball joints. To test, release the front spring compression and check for component binding.
Pricing for CONTROL ARM BALL JOINT (SUSPENSION FRONT)
Pricing for TIE ROD END (STEERING & RELATED PARTS)
Pricing for TIE ROD INNER (STEERING & RELATED PARTS)
Pricing for TIE ROD INNER (SUSPENSION FRONT)
Pricing for TIE ROD OUTER (SUSPENSION FRONT)
If after making a corner and you have to physically turn your wheel to be back straight then you may have some binding of the ball joints or steering column knuckle. Other causes of binding could be the lack of grease in the front end parts or lubricant in the power steering or rack and pinion, a front end alignment may also be the problem.
Pricing for CONTROL ARM BALL JOINT (SUSPENSION FRONT)
Pricing for POWER STEERING RACK (STEERING & RELATED PARTS)
Pricing for STEERING COLUMN AND RELATED (STEERING & RELATED PARTS)
A Clunking noise that comes from the front end when accelerating from a stop can usually be attributed to a broken engine mounts. In most cases the engine mounts have support straps that will only allow a specific amount of movement when the mounts fail! In some cases failing engine mounts can be identified by noting that you begin to feel vibrations throughout the inside of the vehicle when idling.
Another source of clunking noises can be worn front or rear suspension components such as tie rod ends, ball joints or worn control arm bushings. A good rule of thumb would be any vehicle over 80,000 miles should have its suspension gone over thoroughly to check for worn suspension components
Pricing for CONTROL ARM BUSHING (SUSPENSION FRONT)
Pricing for CONTROL ARMS REAR SUSPENSION 2WD (SUSPENSION REAR)
Pricing for CONTROL ARM WITH BALL JOINT (SUSPENSION FRONT)
Pricing for ENGINE MOUNTS (MOTOR MOUNTS)
Pricing for ENGINE MOUNTS 1998-2000 (MOTOR MOUNTS)
Pricing for ENGINE MOUNTS 1998-2004 (MOTOR MOUNTS)
Most of the time when you have a tire that is making a thumping noise its going to have a bump on the tire which usually comes from a broken "belt" on some types of tires such as radials. Other causes for this sound would be that a shock absorber is not functioning correctly or has loosened from its mount.
The problem usually comes from a tire being out of balance that can be balanced out by anyone who has a tire balancing machine wether it be the "bubble" type or a computer ran type of balancer. A loose, worn or out of adjustment wheel bearing, worn tie rod ends, worn out ball joints, excessive wheel run out, bump on the tire, or a bent axelshaft can also cause these vibrations.
Worn or cupped tires usually comes from a poor alignment most of the time, but worn shock asorbers, bad wheel bearings, excessive wheel or tire runout, or worn out ball joints can all be the likely cause for tire wear.
When you have tire wear on the inside edge of the tire most of the time its due to tire alignment. When its like that the tires are pointed outward or toed-out. It can also be caused by inflation pressure incorrect or loose or damaged steering components.
Tire wear on the outside egde of the tire can come from the tire pressures not being correct, going to quick through corners, Front end alignment is incorrect and tires are toed-in or the tires are pointed in, or suspension arms can be bent or twisted.
Having one spot on the tire that is bald or worn can come from the tires being out of balance, damaged or bent wheel that needs to be inspected, or a possible defective tire.
Pricing for FRONT SUSPENSION (SUSPENSION FRONT)
Pricing for TIE ROD END (STEERING & RELATED PARTS)
Pricing for TIE ROD INNER (STEERING & RELATED PARTS)
Pricing for TIE ROD INNER (SUSPENSION FRONT)
Pricing for TIE ROD OUTER (SUSPENSION FRONT)
Question: M56 transmission is making grinding / crushing noise in the following situations in 2nd, 3rd or 4th on acceleration or decelaration.
It makes no noise when idling.
No noise when coasting in neutral.
No noise in 2 /3/4 gears if clutch is pushed.
No noise in 5th or reverse or 1st.
Transmission shifts fine, clutch engages fine, no issues with the release bearing.
Checked the cables and the external linkages, they look good.
Answer: The most likely problem is the syncro rings need to be replaced.
They help to make the transition into and between the gears.
See more about this topic at Volvo 850 Forum
Reasons for hearing these type noises could be that the fluid is low, damaged or worn bearings or input gear shaft and/or output gear shaft. The first thing to check is the fluid if its full see if you can detect any metal and if so that should answer where the noise is coming from.
If your fluid is brown or smells burnt, it needs changing. Its a good idea to change the filter while you are in there. Do NOT over fill the transmission when refilling, if over filled it can cause seals to leak.
Automatic transmissions are very complex and not easy for just anyone to diagnose whats wrong with it or where its leaking. Best way to find the leaks are to jack the car up and put on jack stands for safety. Then use a degreaser or cleaner to remove all the dirt and grime from the transmission. Lower the vehicle and drive it at very slow speeds to keep from blowing the leaking fluid far from its source. Then put the car back on jack stands and look for the leak.
Common places for it to leak from is the fluid pan, filler pipe, cooler lines, or speedometer sensor.
If its coming from the pan, most likely its going to be the gasket and just needs changing (its a good idea to change the filter while your in there if the car is equiped with it). Other parts, depending on where they are leaking, either will have to be replaced or tightend.
If the clutch is working properly, the most likely cause of grinding when shifting into forward gears is worn or broken synchronizers in the transmission. Rebuilding the transmission is the only repair. If the grinding happens when shifting into reverse, make sure the car is not moving forward. Many cars do not have synchronizers for reverse.
Pricing for PINION BEARING (TRANSMISSION PARTS)
Some of the probable causes for the transmission to leak is that the transmission was over filled. If you over fill the transmission the fluid will find its way out through a seal or wherever because the transmission is not meant to be over filled, loose or broken input shaft bearing retainer or its o-ring or lip seal is damaged. If you just filled it up and its leaking, it could be due to over filling or not retightening the plug all the way.
This problem can be caused by a few different things such as worn or improperly adjusted linkage, transmission is loose and not all the way up on the bellhousing/engine block, shifter linkage is binding up, input shaft bearing retainer broken or loose, or you have a worn shift fork. The likely cause for this is probably going to be the bolts have backed out of the bellhousing or engine block or you have a problem with the shifter binding up on something.
These symptoms can be caused by many different things on an Automatic Transmission because it has so many things that can go bad. The main concern for someone checking this out at home would be the fluid. Make sure that the fluid is full in the transmission. Another thing that can help the problem is to change the filter and fluid if the fluid looks dirty, sometimes the filter can become clogged up with stuff and this will cause shifting or slipping problems.
A way to tell if your going to have to change the transmission is by inspecting the fluid when you change the filter, if the fluid has any type of metal or shavings in there, you're going to have to get a new transmission because that one is going to go out before too much longer.
The probable cause for this would be that the Throttle Valve or downshift cable is out of adjustment.
Ways to prevent failures would be to make sure that the engine is full of clean oil, keep the air filters clean, make sure all hoses and duct work for the air intake system are free from holes and other things to prevent dust and dirt getting in the system.
Always warm up the engine for 2-5 minuter before throttling up. What this does is allows the proper oil pressure and circulation to be maintained to prevent failures due to oil while placing the engine and turbo under a load. Let the engine idle for about 2 minutes before shutting down, this is called a cool-down time that keeps oil from building up inside the turbo on the wheel and shaft and causing future problems and malfunctions.
Turbocharger failures can be attributed too long between oil changes or the lack of oil in the engine. The turbocharger runs at very high speed so the lack of oil will quickly cause overheating and destroy the bearing. Long distances between oil changes cause "Coking" in the turbo lubrication areas which will lead to bearing failure. It is highly recommended to replace the oil supply line when replacing turbochargers. The reason for this is because poor lubrication to the turbo is sometimes caused by a gummed up oil supply line to the turbocharger.
Other problems that can cause Turbo failure is inlet restrictions from dirty air filters, collapsed hoses or undersized air pipes. The less air intake by the engine causes the exhaust to heat up leading to cracking and scaling of the turbine housing. This can also be caused by over fueling the engine. Hot engine shut downs can lead to oil leakage by causing oil to coke up in the oil drain and forcing oil out around the turbine and seals.
Foreign objects are another commen cause for damage to the compressor or turbine wheels.
Things that also could happen is droping objects into the air intake system such as nuts, bolts, and tools.
Turbocharger failures can often be identified by noting that Small puffs of grey/white smoke begin to stream from the tailpipe when coming to a stop. This is usually an indication that the clearance between the impeller shaft and bearings have become excessive allowing oil to leak past the seals. Another indication of excessive bearing clearance is noting that large amounts of oil show up in the intake manifold.
NOTE: In most cases you can pull the hose that goes to the compressor side (silver aluminum side) and see if the veins on the turbo shaft can be moved manually. If not, the turbo is seized and must be replaced. Keep in mind that some failing turbochargers will only lockup once the engine is running because the veins will jam against the side of the compressor housing once the turbo spools up.
Pricing for TURBOCHARGERS (TURBOCHARGERS & RELATED)
Pricing for TURBO OIL SUPPLY LINE (TURBOCHARGERS & RELATED)
Turbochargers eventually fail due to wear.
The tubo is lubricated with oil from the engine.
If you keep your oil changed regularly, you can
extend the life of the turbo.
Turbochargers get VERY hot: not only are they driven by the flow of hot exhaust gas and the internal turbine can spin as fast as 100k RPM!
Warm-up isn't much of a problem: once you have adequate oil pressure, you can start driving.
Warm-DOWN, though, can be especially important for older cars. If you turn the engine off as soon as you reach your destination
the oil inside theturbocharger could burn, creating a thin coating on the inside of the turbo.
Eventually, this layer can build up enough to cause the turbocharger to be starved of oil, and fail.
In fact, some manufacturers have started installing pumps that continue to push the oil through the turbocharger for a few minutes
after the car has been turned off.
Also, you might consider switching to synthetic oil, since it may be better at keeping its nominal viscosity,
and burns at a significantly higher temperature than standard oil.
Pricing for TURBOCHARGERS (TURBOCHARGERS & RELATED)


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Fanning Funeral Homes Welcome You
Fanning Funeral Home was established in 1931 by James P. and Gertrude Fanning. It has continued as a family owned and operated business ever since. Serving McDowell County and the surrounding area in West Virginia for over 80 years, we are committed to providing quality, compassionate care to every family. All of our establishments are easily handicapped accessible with highly trained personnel to serve you.


text:
Backless barstool with oak board seat and steel sled base in bright chrome finish.
Lineal is a collection of stackable side chairs, armchairs, bar and counter height stools with upholstered seats made from curved plywood and metal or wood bases. The elegance of its lines allows the piece to be integrated into any environment. The forms of the design have been reduced to the minimum elements, highlighting its formal synthesis. Its full meaning and function are clearly reflected in its name: a line that extends from its backrest to the seat and balanced by the high precision of the metal or wood base.
A philosophy of life Over nearly 60 years we have evolved in tune with the times, offering the practical solutions and aesthetic that people around the world demand.


text:
For more information or images, please contact:
Todd Kenyon, Public Relations
New York State Historical Association
Fenimore Art Museum/The Farmers' Museum
Phone: (607) 547-1472 / E-mail: email@example.com
The Board of Directors of The Farmers' Museum and the Board of Trustees of the New York State Historical Association share grave concerns about the consequences of hydrofracking for the long-term safety of the local water supply, public health, the irreplaceable historic landscape and natural beauty of this region, and our regional economy. Located on the pristine shores of Otsego Lake at the headwaters of the Susquehanna River, these organizations recognize the importance of safeguarding the distinctive qualities of the area.
For over 70 years The Farmers' Museum and the New York State Historical Association and its showcase Fenimore Art Museum have drawn tens of thousands of visitors annually to Otsego County from all parts of the United States and internationally. Those visitors have consistently rated the serenity and beauty of the region as a major attraction of their visit. The natural gas industry's use of hydrofracking practices endangers the very qualities that attract people to Central New York. Hydrofracking threatens not only to produce environmental damage and a blighted landscape, but also a negative perception of the region in the minds of potential visitors. If people choose to travel to other destinations unspoiled by the natural gas industry, the resulting decline in tourism would seriously harm the museums and our local economy, which depends on tourism to support area businesses and produce essential revenue for our town, county, and state.
As museums our mission is the preservation of our heritage into the future. We understand that conscientious stewardship of the land is critical to the future of our institutions and our community, and we believe that a more complete understanding of the long-term impact of gas exploration and extraction in our region is needed. We wholeheartedly support the efforts of our local officials to research and, with abundant caution, act in order to preserve our area's precious environment and its long-term economic well-being.


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Two more toxic meatballs — the seventh and eighth — were added Wednesday to the tally found near the park northeast of Boulder where three dogs are thought to have been poisoned this week.
In a 24-hour span starting Monday evening, the Boulder County Sheriff's Office recovered six of the meatballs, which a spokeswoman said looked like hamburger or turkey meat mashed with rat poison.
Around noon Wednesday, animal control officers responded to a report of one more meatball, found by a woman walking her dog near a set of small ponds adjacent to the unnamed neighborhood park, 5150 Buckingham Road in Gunbarrel.
The eighth meatball was discovered and reported by the owner of one of the possibly infected dogs, but it has not yet been collected by animal control as evidence.
There are no suspects in the case, but several of the recovered meatballs are being tested this week for DNA.
Meanwhile, all three dogs thought to have ingested the meatballs have been treated by veterinarians and are reportedly now in recovery, according to Sara Spensieri, an animal control specialist with the Sheriff's Office.
Uli Bromme, owner of Amos, a 6-month-old golden retriever who ate one of the meatballs, said her dog is doing well following bloodwork done Tuesday and a check-up Wednesday.
"Hopefully, there will be even more improvement," Bromme said. "He is sleeping a lot, but also getting his puppy energy back. After tonight, we should be able to rule out a few types of poison, as they would have presented by now."
Sunny Monaco said her 6-year-old chocolate Labrador retriever, Gybz, is improving after he licked and possibly ate part of a meatball Monday.
"If we can get through the next 24 hours, we should be OK," Monaco said. "We're a little concerned because he was feeling dehydrated this morning, but the vets are all on call, and we feel good."
The third dog possibly infected is a 12-year-old beagle. According to Spensieri, its owner saw it eat something at the park and didn't think much of it until learning later of the poisoned meatballs. As a preventative measure, the beagle was taken to the veterinarian. Its owner could not be reached for comment Wednesday.
Experts warn that poisons may take several days to begin doing serious damage.
"It can still be very toxic even though they seem normal after eating it," said Jennifer Bolser, chief clinic veterinarian for the Humane Society of Boulder Valley.
"Depending on the dose the dogs ate, it could still be problematic in a few days. The owners just have to be vigilant and watch their pets for any signs."
According to Matt Booth of Alpenglow Veterinarian Clinic in Boulder, symptoms owners should watch for include lethargy, decreased appetite, pale gums, difficulty breathing and unexplained bleeding or bruising.
There is still no determination as to the exact toxic agent in the meatballs, but, "The little blue pellets in the meatballs are consistent with what looks like d-CON rat poison that's available at any hardware store," Spensieri said, adding that others at Alpenglow concur.
In an effort to determine the poison, some of the meatballs are being tested this week at Colorado State University.
A part of CSU's sample will be examined by a separate lab at Texas A&M University, CSU spokesman Jeff Dodge said.
"We may have some preliminary results on Friday," Dodge said, adding that A&M's results likely won't be available until next week.
Spensieri said there are no suspects in the case, though her office may know more once the Colorado Bureau of Investigation releases the results of a human DNA test it's conducting this week on two of the meatballs. Those findings are expected to be available by the end of this week.
Anyone with information on the poisoned meatball case is asked to call the Sheriff's Office at 303-441-4444.
Contact Camera Staff Writer Alex Burness at 303-473-1389 or firstname.lastname@example.com. Follow him at twitter.com/alex_burness.


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Any interest in running a PDGA Sanctioned league at one of the upcoming leagues?
Quote from: robm on March 03, 2014, 04:15:28 PMAny interest in running a PDGA Sanctioned league at one of the upcoming leagues?Yes, I think KCFDC member #1507 should do that.
I think FTL would be a perfect PDGA league, but I can only commit to every other week - at best (and maybe not even that) - starting the second week of April when I go back to having Friday's off. I think we could have more than one PDGA league, FTL being one of them, but that would have to be someone else.
I would be very interested in a PDGA league on the Kansas side. Mondays are Olathe league nights, but a Wednesday night Kansas traveling league would be cool. Wyco, SMP,Lakeside, PC, Heritage, Little Kansas BV, Perry once or twice.
I don't believe you should have a PDGA league that only privileged people who enjoy Friday's off can play. Some of us want to play too, but don't have the 4-day work week, or unemployment.Just an opinion.
Do players get PDGA ratings from league rounds? Yes. Current PDGA members will earn ratings and even non-members will earn them even though they won't be able to see their official ratings until they join or renew. Players will see preview (unofficial) ratings each week when the TD posts the scores online just like regular tournaments.If some weeks don't display preview ratings, it's likely not enough players entered that week with established ratings (propagators) over 799. At least 5 propagators are required to produce preview ratings. The good news is that once the league report is submitted to the PDGA, players will still receive official ratings for any of the weeks they couldn't see preview ratings.Do players earn PDGA points? Yes. Players will earn PDGA points based on how many players they tied or beat in their division during each week of play. League points are 1/2 the amount of points of a C-Tier tournament