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Open Access Articles- Top Results for Clothing
Primary Health Care: Open AccessThe Doctors New Clothes: Professional or Fashionable?
Journal of Cytology & HistologyThe Sheep in Wolf's Clothing: Vegetable and Fruit Particles Mimicking Cells and Microorganisms in Cytology Specimens
Journal of ErgonomicsErgonomics and Comfort in Protective and Sport Clothing: A Brief Review
Journal of ErgonomicsEffect of Protective Clothing and Fatigue on Functional Balance of Firefighters
Journal of Forensic ResearchA Novel Method for the Analysis of Slash Cuts to Clothing
|This article needs additional citations for verification. (November 2009)
Clothing is fiber and textile material worn on the body. The wearing of clothing is a feature of nearly all human societies. The amount and type of clothing worn is dependent on physical stature, gender, as well as social and geographic considerations.
Physically, clothing serves many purposes: it can serve as protection from weather, and can enhance safety during hazardous activities such as hiking and cooking. It protects the wearer from rough surfaces, rash-causing plants, insect bites, splinters, thorns and prickles by providing a barrier between the skin and the environment. Clothes can insulate against cold or hot conditions. Further, they can provide a hygienic barrier, keeping infectious and toxic materials away from the body. Clothing also provides protection from harmful UV radiation.
Clothes can be made out of fiber plants such as cotton, plastics such as polyester, or animal skin and hair such as wool. Humans began wearing clothes roughly 83,000 to 170,000 years ago.[1]
- 1 Origin and history
- 2 Functions
- 3 Scholarship
- 4 Cultural aspects
- 5 Contemporary clothing
- 6 Political issues
- 7 Life cycle
- 8 Gallery
- 9 See also
- 10 References
- 11 Further reading
- 12 External links
Origin and history
First recorded use
Knowledge of the origin of clothing remains inferential, since clothing materials deteriorate quickly compared to stone, bone, shell and metal artifacts, but some information has been inferred by studying lice. The body louse specifically lives in human clothing and when it diverged from head lice it can be inferred that clothing existed at that time. One study estimated that this happened between 83,000 to 170,000 years ago,[2][3] another estimates between 65,000 and 149,000 years ago.[4][5]
Archeologists have identified very early sewing needles made of bone and ivory which were found near Kostyonki, Russia in 1988 and are dated to about 30,000 BC.[6] Dyed flax fibers that could have been used in clothing have been found in a prehistoric cave in the Republic of Georgia that date back to 36,000 BP.[7][8]
Making clothing
Making fabric by hand is a tedious and labor-intensive process. The textile industry was the first to be mechanized – with the powered loom – during the Industrial Revolution.
Different cultures have evolved various ways of creating clothes out of cloth. One approach simply involves draping the cloth. Examples of garments consisting of rectangles of cloth wrapped to fit include the dhoti for men and the sari for women in the Indian subcontinent, the Scottish kilt and the Javanese sarong. The clothes may simply be tied up, as is the case of the first two garments; or pins or belts are used to hold the garments in place, as in the case of the latter two. The cloth remains uncut, and people of various sizes or the same person at different sizes can wear the garment.
Another approach involves cutting and sewing the cloth, but using every bit of the cloth rectangle in constructing the clothing. The tailor may cut triangular pieces from one corner of the cloth, and then add them elsewhere as gussets. Traditional European patterns for men's shirts and women's chemises take this approach.
Modern European fashion treats cloth much less conservatively, typically cutting in such a way as to leave various odd-shaped cloth remnants. Industrial sewing operations sell these as waste; home sewers may turn them into quilts.
In the thousands of years that humans have spent constructing clothing, they have created an astonishing array of styles, many of which have been reconstructed from surviving garments, photos, paintings, mosaics, etc., as well as from written descriptions. Costume history serves as a source of inspiration to current fashion designers, as well as a topic of professional interest to costumers constructing for plays, films, television, and historical reenactment.
A primary function of clothing is to improve the comfort of the wearer by providing protection against the elements. Clothing provides protection from sunburn in warm weather, and protection from frostbite in cold weather. Shelter reduces the need for protective clothing. For example, coats, hats, gloves, and other superficial layers are normally removed when entering a warm home. Clothes also reduce risk during activities such as work or sport. Some clothing protects from specific environmental hazards, such as insects, noxious chemicals, weather, weapons, and contact with abrasive substances. Conversely, clothing may protect the environment from the clothing wearer, as with doctors wearing medical scrubs.
Humans have shown extreme inventiveness in devising clothing solutions to environmental hazards. Examples include: space suits, air conditioned clothing, armor, diving suits, swimsuits, bee-keeper gear, motorcycle leathers, high-visibility clothing, and other pieces of protective clothing.
Clothing also performs a range of social and cultural functions. Clothing can be used to indicate social status and convey individual, occupational, and sexual differentiation.[9] In many societies, norms about clothing reflect standards of modesty, religion, gender, and social status. They cover parts of the body that social norms require to be covered, act as a form of adornment, and provide an expression of personal taste and style.
Clothing has been made from a very wide variety of materials. Materials have ranged from leather and furs, to woven materials, to elaborate and exotic natural and synthetic fabrics. Not all body coverings are regarded as clothing. Articles carried rather than worn (such as purses), worn on a single part of the body and easily removed (scarves), worn purely for adornment (jewelry), or those that serve a function other than protection (eyeglasses), are normally considered accessories rather than clothing, as are footwear and hats. The distinction between clothing and protective equipment is not always clear-cut—since clothes designed to be fashionable often have protective value and clothes designed for function often consider fashion in their design.
Although dissertations on clothing and its function appear from the 19th century as colonising countries dealt with various new environments,[10] concerted scientific research into psycho-social, physiological and other functions of clothing (e.g. protective, cartage) occurred in the first half of the 20th century, with publications such as J. C. Flügel's Psychology of Clothes in 1930,[9] and Newburgh's seminal Physiology of Heat Regulation and The Science of Clothing in 1949.[11] By 1968, the field of environmental physiology had advanced and expanded significantly, but the science of clothing in relation to environmental physiology had changed little.[12] While considerable research has since occurred and the knowledge-base has grown significantly, the main concepts remain unchanged, and indeed Newburgh's book is still cited by contemporary authors, including those attempting to develop thermoregulatory models of clothing development.[13]
Cultural aspects
Gender differentiation
In most cultures, gender differentiation of clothing is considered appropriate for men and women. The differences are in styles, colors and fabrics.
In Western societies, skirts, dresses and high-heeled shoes are usually seen as women's clothing, while neckties are usually seen as men's clothing. Trousers were once seen as exclusively men's clothing, but are nowadays worn by both genders. Men's clothes are often more practical (that is, they can function well under a wide variety of situations), but a wider range of clothing styles are available for women. Men are typically allowed to bare their chests in a greater variety of public places. It is generally acceptable for a woman to wear traditionally men's clothing, while the converse is unusual.
In some cultures, sumptuary laws regulate what men and women are required to wear. Islam requires women to wear more modest forms of attire, usually hijab. What qualifies as "modest" varies in different Muslim societies. However, women are usually required to cover more of their bodies than men are. Articles of clothing Muslim women wear for modesty range from the headscarf to the burqa.
Men may sometimes choose to wear men's skirts such as togas or kilts, especially on ceremonial occasions. Such garments were (in previous times) often worn as normal daily clothing by men.
Social status
In some societies, clothing may be used to indicate rank or status. In ancient Rome, for example, only senators could wear garments dyed with Tyrian purple. In traditional Hawaiian society, only high-ranking chiefs could wear feather cloaks and palaoa, or carved whale teeth. Under the Travancore Kingdom of Kerala, (India), lower caste women had to pay a tax for the right to cover their upper body. In China, before establishment of the republic, only the emperor could wear yellow. History provides many examples of elaborate sumptuary laws that regulated what people could wear. In societies without such laws, which includes most modern societies, social status is instead signaled by the purchase of rare or luxury items that are limited by cost to those with wealth or status. In addition, peer pressure influences clothing choice.
Religious clothing might be considered a special case of occupational clothing. Sometimes it is worn only during the performance of religious ceremonies. However, it may also be worn everyday as a marker for special religious status. For example, Jains and Muslim men wear unstitched cloth pieces when performing religious ceremonies. The unstitched cloth signifies unified and complete devotion to the task at hand, with no digression.[citation needed] Sikhs wear a turban as it is a part of their religion.
Most Abrahamic religions prohibit cross-dressing. The cleanliness of religious dresses in Eastern religions like Hinduism, Sikhism, Buddhism, Islam and Jainism is of paramount importance, since it indicates purity.
Clothing figures prominently in the Bible where it appears in numerous contexts, the more prominent ones being: the story of Adam and Eve who made coverings for themselves out of fig leaves, Joseph's cloak, Judah and Tamar, Mordecai and Esther. Furthermore the priests officiating in the Temple had very specific garments, the lack of which made one liable to death.
In Islamic traditions, women are required to wear long, loose, non-transparent outer dress when stepping out of the home.[citation needed] This dress code was comprehensive (for all women regardless of status). The Quran says this about husbands and wives: "...They are clothing/covering (Libaas) for you; and you for them" (chapter 2:187).
Jewish ritual also requires rending of one's upper garment as a sign of mourning. This practice is found in the Bible when Jacob hears of the apparent death of his son Joseph.[14]
Contemporary clothing
Western dress code
The Western dress code has been evolving for over 500 years. The mechanization of the textile industry made many varieties of cloth widely available at affordable prices. Styles have changed, and the availability of synthetic fabrics has changed the definition of "stylish". In the latter half of the 20th century, blue jeans became very popular, and are now worn to events that normally demand formal attire. Activewear has also become a large and growing market.
The licensing of designer names was pioneered by designers like Pierre Cardin in the 1960s and has been a common practice within the fashion industry from about the 1970s.
Spread of western styles
By the early years of the 21st century, western clothing styles had, to some extent, become international styles. This process began hundreds of years earlier, during the periods of European colonialism. The process of cultural dissemination has perpetuated over the centuries as Western media corporations have penetrated markets throughout the world, spreading Western culture and styles. Fast fashion clothing has also become a global phenomenon. These garments are less expensive, mass-produced Western clothing. Donated used clothing from Western countries is also delivered to people in poor countries by charity organizations.
Ethnic and cultural heritage
People may wear ethnic or national dress on special occasions or in certain roles or occupations. For example, most Korean men and women have adopted Western-style dress for daily wear, but still wear traditional hanboks on special occasions, like weddings and cultural holidays. Items of Western dress may also appear worn or accessorized in distinctive, non-Western ways. A Tongan man may combine a used T-shirt with a Tongan wrapped skirt, or tupenu.
Sport and activity
Most sports and physical activities are practiced wearing special clothing, for practical, comfort or safety reasons. Common sportswear garments include shorts, T-shirts, tennis shirts, leotards, tracksuits, and trainers. Specialized garments include wet suits (for swimming, diving, or surfing), salopettes (for skiing) and leotards (for gymnastics). Also, spandex materials are often used as base layers to soak up sweat. Spandex is also preferable for active sports that require form fitting garments, such as wrestling, track & field, dance, gymnastics, and swimming.
There exists a diverse range of styles in fashion, varying by geography, exposure to modern media, economic conditions, and ranging from expensive haute couture to traditional garb, to thrift store grunge.
Future trends
The world of clothing is always changing, as new cultural influences meet technological innovations. Researchers in scientific labs have been developing prototypes for fabrics that can serve functional purposes well beyond their traditional roles, for example, clothes that can automatically adjust their temperature, repel bullets, project images, and generate electricity.[citation needed] The field of wearable technology covers clothing which includes electronic elements.
Researchers are working on creating textiles with designer bacteria that survive off of "dead" skin and sweat reducing the need to wash clothes. Such bacteria could also be used to create bio luminescent fabrics.[15] In 2014, British scientists created a material claimed to be the 'blackest' ever invented - made of carbon nanotubes, the material absorbs 99.965% of all incident light which hits it, although this is expected to have more of a military than a fashion purpose. [16] Some practical advances already available to consumers are bullet-resistant garments made with kevlar and stain-resistant fabrics coated with chemical mixtures that reduce the absorption of liquids.
Political issues
Working conditions
|This section requires expansion. (June 2008)
Ethical concerns of workers within garment industry in the U.S grew during the late 1800s and early 1900s. An influx of various immigrant groups paired with a garment industry boom following the industrial revolution resulted in mistreatment of workers across garment shops and factories within the industry.
Inequalities existed amongst different types of workers within the industry, with "cutters" often subject to better wages and hours, both before and after strikes. Cutters both worked in tenement sweatshops as well as factories, meticulously cutting the materials and patterns for garments. Men, as well as workers of higher ethnic immigrant groups who had been living in the U.S for longer periods often served as cutters, while women worked within the "home work" field of the industry. Within the "home work" field, women took garments to tenement homes for specific processes such as "felling". This consisted of stitching the linings of coats, collars or cuffs, as well as basting pants, sewing buttons, or tacking pockets. The work was often viewed as not requiring any great amount of skill, and received the least amount of pay among the garment industry jobs of the era. "Home work" was also often rumored to have the highest possibilities for abuses, as though it fell under the garment industry, was not under the supervision of factory owners or managers.[17]
Jews are an example of an ethnic group during the late 19th and early 20th centuries who were viewed as a minority race not strong enough to work in garment factories as cutters, and better suited for "light occupations as sewing" within sweatshops or the "home work" field.[18] Garment workers brought an ethnic labor consciousness to the U.S, either by choice or force, and gender battles and beliefs often came second to working-class solidarity.[19] Gender represented a strong common ground during the early years of tenement sweatshops, as the workers were not stereotyped by their gender, but race.Class was tied to race and ethnicity, and sweatshop wages were so low that male and female workers had to support their families by working in factories and shops with low wages, dangerous work conditions, and extended hours, often over fifty a week.[18]
While laws at the end of the 1900s served to protect these "home workers", it has been noted by many scholars of the period that these laws were largely ineffective. Strikes in the 1900s often addressed the rights of these workers, and some of them even worked to eliminate "home workers" from the industry, with the understanding the women would move to similar positions within garment factories.[17]
Though mechanization transformed most aspects of human industry by the mid-20th century, garment workers have continued to labor under challenging conditions that demand repetitive manual labor. Mass-produced clothing is often made in what are considered by some to be sweatshops, typified by long work hours, lack of benefits, and lack of worker representation. While most examples of such conditions are found in developing countries, clothes made in industrialized nations may also be manufactured similarly, often staffed by undocumented immigrants.[citation needed]
Coalitions of NGOs, designers (Katharine Hamnett, American Apparel, Veja, Quiksilver, eVocal, Edun,...) and campaign groups like the Clean Clothes Campaign (CCC) have sought to improve these conditions as much as possible by sponsoring awareness-raising events, which draw the attention of both the media and the general public to the workers.
Outsourcing production to low wage countries like Bangladesh, China, India and Sri Lanka became possible when the Multi Fibre Agreement (MFA) was abolished. The MFA, which placed quotas on textiles imports, was deemed a protectionist measure.[citation needed] Globalization is often quoted as the single most contributing factor to the poor working conditions of garment workers. Although many countries recognize treaties like the International Labor Organization, which attempt to set standards for worker safety and rights, many countries have made exceptions to certain parts of the treaties or failed to thoroughly enforce them. India for example has not ratified sections 87 and 92 of the treaty.[citation needed]
The use of animal fur in clothing dates to prehistoric times. It is currently associated in developed countries with expensive, designer clothing, although fur is still used by indigenous people in arctic zones and higher elevations for its warmth and protection. Once uncontroversial, it has recently been the focus of campaigns on the grounds that campaigners consider it cruel and unnecessary. PETA, along with other animal rights and animal liberation groups have called attention to fur farming and other practices they consider cruel.
Life cycle
Clothing maintenance
Clothing suffers assault both from within and without. The human body sheds skin cells and body oils, and exudes sweat, urine, and feces. From the outside, sun damage, moisture, abrasion and dirt assault garments. Fleas and lice can hide in seams. Worn clothing, if not cleaned and refurbished, itches, looks scruffy, and loses functionality (as when buttons fall off, seams come undone, fabrics thin or tear, and zippers fail).
In some cases, people wear an item of clothing until it falls apart. Cleaning leather presents difficulties, and bark cloth (tapa) cannot be washed without dissolving it. Owners may patch tears and rips, and brush off surface dirt, but old leather and bark clothing always look old.
But most clothing consists of cloth, and most cloth can be laundered and mended (patching, darning, but compare felt).
Laundry, ironing, storage
Humans have developed many specialized methods for laundering, ranging from early methods of pounding clothes against rocks in running streams, to the latest in electronic washing machines and dry cleaning (dissolving dirt in solvents other than water). Hot water washing (boiling), chemical cleaning and ironing are all traditional methods of sterilizing fabrics for hygiene purposes.
Many kinds of clothing are designed to be ironed before they are worn to remove wrinkles. Most modern formal and semi-formal clothing is in this category (for example, dress shirts and suits). Ironed clothes are believed to look clean, fresh, and neat. Much contemporary casual clothing is made of knit materials that do not readily wrinkle, and do not require ironing. Some clothing is permanent press, having been treated with a coating (such as polytetrafluoroethylene) that suppresses wrinkles and creates a smooth appearance without ironing.
Once clothes have been laundered and possibly ironed, they are usually hung on clothes hangers or folded, to keep them fresh until they are worn. Clothes are folded to allow them to be stored compactly, to prevent creasing, to preserve creases or to present them in a more pleasing manner, for instance when they are put on sale in stores.
A resin used for making non-wrinkle shirts releases formaldehyde, which could cause contact dermatitis for some people; no disclosure requirements exist, and in 2008 the U.S. Government Accountability Office tested formaldehyde in clothing and found that generally the highest levels were in non-wrinkle shirts and pants.[20] In 1999, a study of the effect of washing on the formaldehyde levels found that after 6 months after washing, 7 of 27 shirts had levels in excess of 75 ppm, which is a safe limit for direct skin exposure.[21]
In past times, mending was an art. A meticulous tailor or seamstress could mend rips with thread raveled from hems and seam edges so skillfully that the tear was practically invisible. When the raw material – cloth – was worth more than labor, it made sense to expend labor in saving it. Today clothing is considered a consumable item. Mass-manufactured clothing is less expensive than the labor required to repair it. Many people buy a new piece of clothing rather than spend time mending. The thrifty still replace zippers and buttons and sew up ripped hems.
Used, unwearable clothing can be used for quilts, rags, rugs, bandages, and many other household uses. It can also be recycled into paper. In Western societies, used clothing is often thrown out or donated to charity (such as through a clothing bin). It is also sold to consignment shops, dress agencies, flea markets, and in online auctions. Used clothing is also often collected on an industrial scale to be sorted and shipped for re-use in poorer countries.
There are many concerns about the life cycle of synthetics, which come primarily from petrochemicals.[weasel words] Unlike natural fibers, their source is not renewable and they are not biodegradable.[22]
- Garments Factory in Bangladesh.JPG
Garment factory in Bangladesh
- Garments Product Made in Bangladesh.JPG
Knit garments made in Bangladesh, factory showroom
- Product Made in Bangladesh.JPG
Different types of pre-wash performed on denim, factory showroom
- Jaket Made in Bangladesh.JPG
Artificial leather jacket made in Bangladesh
- Blazer production in Bangladesh.JPG
Blazer production in Bangladesh
- Washing Factory.JPG
Modern technology and machinery are used in this Bangladesh washing factory for ready made garments
See also
- Clothing technology
- Textile design
- Naturism (which includes nudism)
- Second hand store
- Thermoregulation
- Timeline of non-sexual social nudity
- Timeline of requisite dress in Western civilization
- Bangladesh textile industry
- Bangladeshi RMG Sector
- ^ Human Evolution and Male Aggression, Anne Innis Dagg, Lee Harding - 2012
- ^ "...Lice Indicates Early Clothing Use ..". Mol Biol Evol 28 (1): 29–32. 2011. doi:10.1093/molbev/msq234.
- ^ Charles Q. Choi (January 7, 2011). "Humans Got Lice When We Clothed Our Naked, Hairless Bodies". livescience.com. Retrieved 4 May 2014.
- ^ Ralf Kittler, Manfred Kayser & Mark Stoneking (2003), "Molecular evolution of Pediculus humanus and the origin of clothing", Current Biology 13 (16): 1414–1417, PMID 12932325, doi:10.1016/S0960-9822(03)00507-4
- ^ Stoneking, Mark. "Erratum: Molecular evolution of Pediculus humanus and the origin of clothing". Retrieved April 30, 2014.
- ^ Hoffecker, J., Scott, J., Excavations In Eastern Europe Reveal Ancient Human Lifestyles, University of Colorado at Boulder News Archive, March 21, 2002, colorado.edu
- ^ Balter, M (2009). "Clothes Make the (Hu) Man". Science 325 (5946): 1329. PMID 19745126. doi:10.1126/science.325_1329a.
- ^ Kvavadze, E; Bar-Yosef, O; Belfer-Cohen, A; Boaretto, E; Jakeli, N; Matskevich, Z; Meshveliani, T (2009). "30,000-Year-Old Wild Flax Fibers". Science 325 (5946): 1359. PMID 19745144. doi:10.1126/science.1175404. Supporting Online Material
- ^ a b Flugel, John Carl (1976. First published 1930), The Psychology of Clothes, International Psycho-analytical Library, No.18, New York: AMS Press. First published by Hogarth Press, London, ISBN 0-404-14721-6 Check date values in:
|date=(help) Alternative ISBN 978-0-404-14721-1 (This work is one of the earliest attempts at an overview of the psycho-social and practical functions of clothing)
- ^ e.g. Jeffreys, Julius (1858), The British Army in India: Its Preservation by an appropriate Clothing, Housing, Locating, Recreative Employment, and Hopeful Encouragement of the Troops, London: Longman, Brown, Green, Longmans & Roberts, retrieved 8 September 2010
- ^ Newburgh, Louis Harry, ed. (1968. Reprint of 1949 edition), Physiology of Heat Regulation and The Science of Clothing, New York & London: Hafner Publishing Check date values in:
- ^ Hertig, Bruce A (February 1969), "Book review: Physiology of Heat Regulation and the Science of Clothing", Journal of Occupational and Environmental Medicine 11 (2): 100, doi:10.1097/00043764-196902000-00012, retrieved 8 September 2010 (reviewer's name appears next to Newburgh, but was not the co-author. See also reviewer's name at bottom of page).
- ^ Gilligan, Ian (January 2010), "The Prehistoric Development of Clothing: Archaeological Implications of a Thermal Model", Journal of Archaeological Method and Theory 17 (1): 15–80, doi:10.1007/s10816-009-9076-x
- ^ "?" (PDF). Retrieved 9 August 2010.[self-published source?]
- ^ DAVID KIRBY (August 19, 2001). "Designer Bacteria May Have a Future in Fashion". Newyork Times.
- ^ "Scientists develop blackest material".
- ^ a b Best, Harry (c. 1914). "The Men's Garment Industry of New York and the Strike of 1913". University Settlement Society: 3–24.
- ^ a b Bender, Daniel (2003). A Foreign Method of Working: Racial Degeneration, Gender Disorder, and the Sweatshop Danger in America. New York: Routledge. pp. 19–36. ISBN 9780415935616.
- ^ Hapke, Laura (2004). Sweatshop: The History of an American Idea. New Jersey: Rutgers University Press. p. 7.
- ^ When Wrinkle-Free Clothing Also Means Formaldehyde Fumes. New York Times.
- ^ Changes of Free Formaldehyde Quantity in Non-iron Shirts by Washing and Storage. Journal of Health Science.
- ^ The Textile Materials Eco Battle Between Natural and Synthetic Fabrics "Steven E. Davis, Sweatshirt Station".
Further reading
- Finnane, Antonia (2008), Changing Clothes in China: Fashion, History, Nation, New York: Columbia University Press, ISBN 978-0-231-14350-9, retrieved 8 September 2010 ebook ISBN 978-0-231-51273-2
- Forsberg, Krister & Mansdorf, S. Z. (2007), Quick Selection Guide to Chemical Protective Clothing (5th ed.), Hoboken, New Jersey: John Wiley & Sons, ISBN 978-0-470-14681-1, retrieved 8 September 2010
- Gavin, Timothy P (2003), "Clothing and Thermoregulation During Exercise", Sports Medicine 33 (13): 941–947, PMID 14606923, doi:10.2165/00007256-200333130-00001, retrieved 8 September 2010
- Hollander, Anne L (1993), Seeing Through Clothes, Berkeley & Los Angeles, California, and London, UK: University of California Press, ISBN 0-520-08231-1, retrieved 8 September 2010
- Montain, Scott J; Sawaka, Michael N; Cadarett, Bruce S; Quigley, Mark D; McKay, James M (1994), "Physiological tolerance to uncompensable heat stress: effects of exercise intensity, protective clothing, and climate" (PDF), Journal of Applied Physiology 77 (1): 216–222, PMID 7961236, retrieved 8 September 2010
- Ross, Robert (2008), Clothing, a Global History: or, The Imperialist's New Clothes, Cambridge, UK: Polity Press, ISBN 978-0-7456-3186-8, retrieved 8 September 2010 Paperback ISBN 978-0-7456-3187-5
- Tochihara, Yutaka & Ohnaka, Tadakatsu, ed. (2005), Environmental Ergonomics: The Ergonomics of Human Comfort, Health and Performance in the Thermal Environment, Elsevier Ergonomics Book Series, Vol.3, Amsterdam & Boston: Elsevier, pp. 315–320, ISBN 0-08-044466-0, retrieved 8 September 2010 (see especially sections 5 – 'Clothing' – & 6 – 'Protective clothing').
- Yarborough, Portia & Nelson, Cherilyn N, ed. (2005), Performance of Protective Clothing: Global Needs and Emerging Markets, 8th Vol., West Conshohocken, PA: ASTM International, ISBN 0-8031-3488-6, ISSN 1040-3035, retrieved 8 September 2010
External links
- clothing: fashion, UK trend, women jewelry
- BBC Wiltshire Dents Glove Museum
- International Textile and Apparel Association, scholarly publications
- German Hosiery Museum (English language)
- Molecular Evolution of Pediculus humanus and the Origin of Clothing by Ralf Kittler, Manfred Kayser and Mark Stoneking (.PDF file)
- Cornell Home Economics Archive: Research, Tradition, History (HEARTH)
- Clothing
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text:
It's up to Congress now.
That is, it's up to Congress to salvage from the damaging impact of social experimentation the U.S. military, the strongest and most effective military ever, according to an organization that focuses on the readiness of the nation's forces.
The nation's lawmakers urgently need to intervene, according to a new report from Center for Military Readiness, because without that, women will be ordered into combat.
But wasn't the recent campaign by President Obama and others supposed to allow women in the military to access all those opportunities denied them earlier?
The reality is that "once a person joins the military, there is no such thing as 'voluntary,'" the report. "Women will be required to go where they are ordered. On January 24 Joint Chiefs Chairman General Martin Dempsey called for the assignment of 'significant cadres' of women to create a 'critical mass' in formerly all-male combat arms battalions.
"Enlisted women, who outnumber female officers five to one, will not have the option or choice to refuse assignments that unfairly treat them like men in a military social experiment testing Amazon Warrior myths."
The CMR's chief, Elaine Donnelly, earlier said the announcement by former Secretary of Defense Leon Panetta that all positions in the military would be opened to women was unwise.
Women earlier had been denied the opportunity of being in tip-of-the-spear units that physically confront enemy contingents.
Donnelly warned then that Marine and Army field commanders "who desire promotion will be compelled to pursue gender-based quotas by ordering women into direct ground combat (infantry) battalions."
The Pentagon, under Barack Obama's direction, said just weeks ago virtually every ground-combat job now will be opened to women.
The new report said the announcement from Obama's administration Jan. 24 abolishing the exemption for women from direct ground combat battalions "will impose unprecedented social burdens on our military."
"Standards will be compromised, combat effectiveness reduced, violence against women increased, and both men and women will be put at greater risk. In addition, unsuspecting civilian women eventually will be subject to Selective Service obligations on the same basis as men," it explained.
"No one should be fooled by the administration's pretense of prolonging women-in-combat plans over three years. Congress is being cut out of the decision, and current military leaders are not free to dissent from ill-advised policies already made. Long before decisions are 'final' in 2016, military officers will be promoted or selected for high rank only if they support gender-based 'diversity' in ground combat," the report said.
"A better approach is needed to bring law and policy in line with current realities and lessons learned since Sept. 11, 2001. Congress must support the majority of military women, and act to preserve high, uncompromised standards in tough training that saves lives. The only way to do these things and to maintain the legal rationale for women's Selective Service exemptions, is to codify women's exemption from assignment to direct ground combat. Before incremental plans become irreversible, Congress must assert its authority and act."
The report reiterated the concerns that woman physically are not the match of men.
"No one should assume that gender-mixed training standards will remain the same. Instead of dual standards, there will be lowered standards − equal but far less demanding than male-oriented standards are right now. The
tipoff came at the January 24 news conference, when Gen. Martin Dempsey said 'if a particular standard is so high that a woman couldn't make it,' the services will be asked, 'Does it really have to be that high?'"
Further, it warns that assigning women to direct ground combat would increase, not reduce, sexual assaults.
"According to an Army Gold Book report, violent attacks and rapes in the ranks have nearly doubled since 2006, rising from 663 in 2006 to 1,313 in 2011. Even worse, the Army reported that violent sex crime was growing at an average rate of 14.6 percent per year, and the rate is accelerating," the report said.
Regarding having women across the nation all of a sudden eligible for a military draft, there are polls and surveys that use the word "allowed" instead of "required" when talking about the new "opportunities" for women, the report said.
"In recent civilian and military surveys, support dropped off dramatically when mandatory orders or a possible draft were mentioned, or when questions were asked about combat effectiveness. There is no evidence that enlisted women in the Army and Marine Corps want to be forced into violent close combat on land," the report said.
"Superb female athletes win Olympic medals, but they do not compete against male athletes. Some women can run marathons faster than male colleagues, but not with 100-pounds loads and an enemy to fight at the end. The National Football League does not promote 'diversity' by fielding female players in non-lethal 'combat' on the gridiron," the report said.
"In contrast, our military is being forced to send women into lethal combat, where they do not have an equal opportunity to survive, or to help fellow soldiers survive. … To preserve the culture of our military as the finest in the world, Congress must treat this is a serious national defense issue and intervene before it is too late."
Donnelly recently pointed out in a Washington Times commentary that female officers were invited last September to participate in the grueling 13-week Marine Infantry Officer Course at Quantico, Va.
"Of the two women who volunteered, one left on the first day, and the second dropped out (along with 27 of 109 men) several days later," she writes.

subset: commoncrawl


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Lacuna Coil's Cristina Scabbia: I'm a 'Geeky Girl'
When one thinks of the talented and beautiful songstress Cristina Scabbia of Lacuna Coil, "geeky" might not be the first word that comes to mind. However, the Italian vocalist begs to differ.
When a fan asks via HailsandHorns.com (thanks Noisecreep) how she sees herself, Cristina says, "I see myself as a geeky girl who's been able to realize that it is beautiful to be unique, as everyone is. I love to play with my image and I find myself a pretty sensual person, but at the same time I am surprised when people look at me as a sex symbol."
She continues, "I barely wear make-up offstage and my fans know it. I am happy to be a role model to some people, 'cause I am sure that whoever looks up to me can see the 'girl next door that rocks' thing."
When another fan poses the question her sound fresh and original she states, "I think the key is to be open-minded and realize that as life proceeds, experiences are different and you change as a person. That doesn't mean refusing the past but it means to get the best out if it and to be ready to embrace the future."
She adds, "We never felt the pressure to enter the clichés; we actually don't really conform to any. It can be good or bad, but that's what we are and whoever loves us it's because they really love Lacuna Coil, not a genre."
Strong, geeky, open-minded, intelligent — no wonder Scabbia is a candidate in the 2011 Loudwire Music Awards category of Rock Goddess of the Year — vote now! Also, be sure to check out Full Metal Jackie's recent interview with the Lacuna Coil singer.


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FERRISBURGH — Despite at least modest increases in town spending and in the Ferrisburgh Central School and Vergennes Union High School budgets, Ferrisburgh's 2012-2013 property tax rates dropped from this past year.
Ferrisburgh's new residential rate stands at $1.6276 per $100 of assed value — 10.58 cents lower than the 2011-2012 rate.
That decrease translates to a tax bill that is about $200 lower for a Ferrisburgh home assessed at $200,000, assuming its owners are not eligible for property tax relief.


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THIS weekend a rider from Bargoed will be heading to Epsom Downs as the only Welsh jockey to be competing in the world's greatest flat race.
David Probert, 25, had been race riding since 2008, but started riding as a teenager in Bargoed.
"I always had horses and raced ponies. I got into racing that way," he said.
At 16-years-old, the keen rider joined the British Racing School. This will be his first time riding in the prestigious Derby with horse, Impulsive Moment and he will be riding for Andrew Balding.
He said: "His form going into the race is decent. I'm hoping I can run a good race."
The one mile, four furlongs and 10 yard flat race is Britain's richest horse race and considered the greatest of the country's five Classics.
Mr Probert, who is now based in Hungerford, insisted his training would be like any other week in the run-up to this weekend. He said: "It's no different this week. I just ride out in the mornings. I'm just taking one day at a time and will ride it like any other race."
The rider's family will be heading from South Wales to Surrey to support him on the weekend. He said: "It should be a big day. It's all built up to this.
"The Derby is the biggest race in the world. Everyone wants to win it. It's unbelievable to be able to ride it."
David is understood to be the only Welsh jockey riding in the Derby this weekend, although final jockey confirmations are not until 48 hours prior to the race day. He will also be racing at the Royal Ascot later this month.
He said: "It's great going from growing up in small town in Wales to where I am now. It's a big achievement. I'm trying not to get too overwhelmed. It took a lot of hard work and determination."


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Add To Cart – Shopping Cart View Animation using UITabBar & UITableView
Check out above video first before going through the entire post. Did you like that implementation ? Do you really want to have similar kind of implementation ? Are you really looking for something similar ? If yes, this post … Continue reading


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Seizures are sudden, temporary changes in physical movement, caused by abnormal electrical impulses in the brain. In some instances the affected child's body may experience violent convulsions. Or it may stiffen suddenly, or completely relax.
Most seizures are not medical emergencies, but the child should be seen by a physician to determine the course of treatment. Your immediate attention should be directed toward protecting your child from injuring himself during the seizure. Lay him on his side with his hips higher than his head, or place him in a semi-sitting position, so that he will not choke if he vomits.
If the seizure continues for more than two to three minutes, if it seems unusually severe, or if one attack rapidly follows another, call 911 or your local emergency number for help. Do not leave your child unattended.


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Food tours highlight Main Street
Imagine an afternoon filled with demiglazes and braised shanks, pot stickers and forest mushrooms, red wine reductions and black bean quinoa salad. Are you hungry? Because Shirin Spangenberg, the owner of Park City Food Tours, wants to both feed and educate you.
The new business offers tours of the fine dining options and history of Park City's Historic Main Street. Whether popping into the Wasatch Brew Pub for a starter or checking out the latest creation at Zoom Restaurant, Spangenberg walks groups down the street, stopping in this or that business while providing a touch or perhaps an avalanche of local color. And at the heart of the business is a concept any Main Street merchant could stand behind: get more people to come back, spend money and support the local economy.
"I know a lot of people on the street, which made partnering with businesses easier. My whole goal is to bring recognition to the restaurants and businesses on Main Street. Hopefully, people will be so enthralled they will go back," Spangenberg said, "and they usually do."
But even locals are realizing the benefits of the tour, that there is more to Main Street than meets the eye. With more than 20 years in the community, Spangenberg delivers on stories, from the Old West days of Mormon pioneers to recent events such as the Tour of Utah and the most recent celebrity sightings at the Sundance Film Festival. If locals are inviting out-of-town guests to stay, it's the kind of tour they should take and commit to heart, embodying an air of a know-it-all guide to all things Park City.
"It's so funny," Spangenberg said. "The street is so dynamic. It changes all the time, and people take it for granted. I've always enjoyed coming on to Main Street, but starting this business has opened my eyes, to what there is, to how wonderful our business owners are, to spending a good time in our home town."
The tour even includes less obvious "food tour" merchants, incorporating galleries where owners highlight a new artist, understanding how to properly taste olive oil or a personal hand treatment at the Mountain Body Spa. In each location, a server or manager steps up to explain what the restaurant offers and what the group will try.
"This is an opportunity for people to sell their restaurant, their business," she said. "You have a captive audience. They are here for food, so this is a golden opportunity."
Spangenberg first had the idea to start her business in Park City after a trip to Orange County where she used an online coupon to take her first food tour. An admitted foodie, she saw the potential for expanding this idea in Utah.
"We have so much personality on this street," Spangenberg said. "I knew I could do this."
"The point is to have fun, get to know people, enjoy others' company," she added. "and that is on top of enjoying the food and getting to know the area better."
In December, she gave the first tour, and each experience is a little different, she said. Large groups treat the tour like a party, with perhaps a few more cocktails involved. Small groups become very intimate, people swapping stories and really getting to know each other. And there is something for everyone. The Park City Food Tours works with a variety of special dietary needs, whether kosher or gluten-free.
As the winter season continues, Spangenberg will continue to offer an apres ski schedule, targeting tourists who are just getting off the slopes. As spring and summer approach, she hopes to change up the schedule and offer deals to locals and the Wasatch Front for a dinner experience.
Park City Food Tours
Reservations can be made online.
Tour costs $64 per person.
Marketplace: Jamaican family opens 11 Hauz restaurant
11 Hauz, which opened last summer, serves traditional Jamaican food such as jerk chicken and shrimp, beef patties and fried plantains.


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This month, the annual state fair runs for 17 days - an event of parades, rides, food, music, animals, and so much more. Combining the best country fair with a carnival, home show, craft show, and more, the event was almost too big to see and experience in just one day. Alicia and four of her friends did their best to experience it in one day though! They were at the gates when the fair opened at 9am and they didn't leave until the fair ended at 11pm. They were loaded down with their purchases, stomachs groaning from too much food, cheeks flushed from the excitement of the rides, and well-satisfied with their day at the fair. Each got a picture taken with a different exotic animal. Among their many purchases, each had a gift for a special friend tucked away. At the home show, they were assailed with demonstrations for many different products and each bought one of the products for their home. And to top off the day, each bought extra of their favorite fair food to bring home and savor another time. Determine the name of each friend, what animal each got their picture taken with, what each bought for a gift, the home show item each bought, and what kind of food each brought home with them.
1. Ruth got the gold ring, but not a picture with the zebra. The oil painting wasn't bought by the woman who got the roasted peanuts. Alicia didn't buy the lap quilt.
2. The woman who got the photo with the giraffe also bought the crystal clock. Kim didn't get the food chopper, although she did get the cream puffs. Ruth didn't get the food chopper.
3. The five friends are Alicia, the woman who bought the kitchen knives, the woman who got the fudge, the woman who got the silver necklace, and the woman who got her picture taken with a zebra.
4. Sara didn't buy the kettle corn. The cooking pans were bought by the woman who got a photo with the monkey. The woman who bought the stovetop grill also bought the lap quilt.
5. The woman who bought the steam mop, which wasn't Mary, also got the cookies. Sara bought a set of kitchen knives but she didn't get her picture taken with an elephant.
6. Alicia posed for a photo with the lion, but she didn't get the food chopper. Kim didn't get the silver necklace.
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#12 was marked as a duplicate of this issue.
Class proxy should be more lazy
We currently perform a full scan of the method table when you first access a class to ensure that the dir() function works. That slows down initialization, and uses more memory than needed.
What's worse is that we basicly do a rescan on every method calls, and that is way to expensive (the rescan is needed because the runtime doesn't have a callback API for changes).
All of this can be done lazily with Python 2.6 or later:
Implement dir, perform a full scan there to ensure that
introspection works
Do not perform a full scan when loading the class, or when calling
a method
In getattribute: cache that a method was found, probably even
when the method is found in a superclass (to avoid slowdown when calling methods defined in a superclass)
This means we can no longer add special methods by looking
for selectors after doing the full scan (e.g. add getitem when @Aleksey Marchak(valueForKey:) is defined), switch to explicitly adding special methods to particular classes instead.
Comments (5)
- changed component to pyobjc-core
- changed version to 3.0
I have a (local) 3.0 branch where I've implemented this. The code still needs some cleanup, but basicly works.
- changed status to resolved
This is implemented in the 3.0 branch.
- removed version
Removing version: 3.0 (automated comment)
- Log in to comment


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January 28, 2013 09:00 ET
TORONTO, ONTARIO--(Marketwire - Jan. 28, 2013) -
First Asset Morningstar Advantaged U.S. Consumer Defensive Fund (the "Fund") announces that it has filed a preliminary prospectus dated January 24, 2013 with the securities regulatory authorities of all of the Canadian provinces and territories for an initial public offering of trust units (the "Units") at $10 per Unit.
The Fund's investment objectives are to provide holders of Units with:
The Fund has been created to obtain exposure to a portfolio (the "Portfolio") that is designed to replicate, to the extent possible, the performance of the Morningstar® Consumer Defensive Index™ (the "Index"), net of expenses.
The Portfolio will invest in the securities of the issuers comprising the Index in the same proportion as these constituents represent in the Index and accordingly the composition of the Portfolio will vary from time to time based on the composition of the Index. The Index is comprised of highly liquid, U.S. domiciled companies that trade on one of the three major U.S. exchanges and that are engaged in the manufacturing of food, beverages, household and personal products, packaging, or tobacco and also includes companies that provide services such as education and training services.
The distributions are initially targeted to be 6% per annum on the subscription price of $10.00 per Unit ($0.05 per Unit per month or $0.60 per annum) for the period from closing to December 31, 2013. Thereafter, the annual distribution rate will be determined pursuant to a formula which incorporates historical levels of distributions paid, the rate of inflation, and performance of the Fund, and which will not be less than 4%, or more than 7% per annum based on the net asset value per Unit as at the end of the preceding calendar year.
The manager of the Fund is First Asset Investment Management Inc., a Canadian wealth management company that manages and administers approximately $2.65 billion in assets, as of December 31, 2012.
The syndicate of agents for this offering is being led by CIBC, co-led by National Bank Financial Inc. and RBC Capital Markets, and includes BMO Capital Markets, Scotiabank, TD Securities Inc., Raymond James Ltd., Canaccord Genuity Corp., GMP Securities L.P., Desjardins Securities Inc., Macquarie Private Wealth Inc., Dundee Securities Ltd. and Manulife Securities Incorporated.
Morningstar® is a registered trademark of Morningstar, Inc. ("Morningstar"). Consumer Defensive Index™ is a trademark of Morningstar. These trademarks have been licensed for use for certain purposes by First Asset Investment Management Inc. The Units are not in any way sponsored, endorsed, sold or promoted by Morningstar or any of its affiliates, and Morningstar makes no representation or warranty, express or implied, regarding the advisability of investing in securities generally or in the Fund particularly.
A preliminary prospectus containing important information relating to these securities has been filed with securities commissions or similar authorities in each of the provinces and territories of Canada. The preliminary prospectus is still subject to completion or amendment. Copies of the preliminary prospectus may be obtained from one of the dealers noted above. There will not be any sale or any acceptance of an offer to buy the securities until a receipt for the final prospectus has been issued.
First AssetRob MacNivenInvestor Relations416-642-1289 or 1-877-642-1289www.firstasset.com
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The Crash of '79! Story: Bill Mantlo Art: Gene Colan, Dave Simons Design director: Nora Maclin Letterer: Jim Novak Cover: Val Mayerik Originally published: December 1979 WTF, this mag has full-on nudity! That's kind of shocking! Howard and Bev face off against Pro-Rata again, and Spidey shows up in a flashback. There are some people […]
Entries Tagged as 'Killer-Clock'
Howard the Duck Magazine 002 (Story 2)
August 6th, 2008 · No Comments · 1.5, 1979, Bill Mantlo, Coffee, Dave Simons, Eyeclops, Gene Colan, Howard the Duck, Howard the Duck Magazine, Jim Novak, Killer-Clock, Moon-Rocket, Nora Maclin, OJ, Pro-Rata, Sizzler, Spider-Man, Spider-Man / Spider-Lizard (Peter Parker), Toast, Val Mayerik, Winda Wester


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Express. Home of the Daily and Sunday Express.
Captain John Terry, forward Eden Hazard and midfielder John Obi Mikel travelled to Amsterdam for Chelsea's Europa League final with Benfica despite doubts over their fitness.
The trio were part of Chelsea's 25-man playing party which travelled to Holland for Wednesday's match at the Amsterdam ArenA, the Blues confirmed on their website.
Terry (ankle) and Hazard (hamstring) suffered injuries in Saturday's Barclays Premier League win at Aston Villa.
Terry missed last season's Champions League final win in Munich through suspension and his injury means he faces further continental disappointment. The 32-year-old former England skipper's place in the side was already in doubt in a competitive position in central defence, with David Luiz, Gary Cahill and Branislav Ivanovic the Blues' other options.
The loss of Belgian playmaker Hazard would be more keenly felt as they go in search of back-to-back European trophies. Coupled with the concern over Mikel, who has a hip problem, it may mean Frank Lampard is included, in all likelihood as captain.
Lampard, who became the club's record goalscorer by netting twice in the win at Villa Park, could be deployed in a deep midfield role alongside Luiz, with Ramires pushed further forward alongside Juan Mata and Oscar.
Ryan Bertrand, Ashley Cole's left-back deputy, was also on the short flight from London despite a recent knee injury. Bertrand impressed on his Champions League debut in Munich 12 months ago.
Midfielder Oriol Romeu, who has not featured since rupturing his anterior cruciate ligament in December, also travelled, as did 18-year-old Dutchman Nathan Ake. Also among the 25 was striker Demba Ba, despite being cup-tied having represented Newcastle earlier in the competition.
Ba's ineligibility means Fernando Torres is near-certain to start up front after five goals in as many Europa League matches, a run which has come despite the £50million striker failing to find the net in the Premier League in 2013.
Chelsea took four goalkeepers - Petr Cech, plus Ross Turnbull, Hilario and Jamal Blackman - and Portugal full-back Paulo Ferreira travelled for the match against his countrymen, but is unlikely to feature.


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FLANKER Darren Waters has left Newport Gwent Dragons to join London Welsh's battle for Aviva Premiership survival.
The 29-year-old back row forward has had three injury-hit seasons with the Rodney Parade region since signing from Pontypridd in 2009.
With the Dragons well-stocked for opensides – with Lewis Evans and Nic Cudd backed up by Wales Under-20s prospects James Benjamin, Scott Matthews and Ollie Griffiths – they have allowed him to join the Exiles.
London Welsh head coach Justin Burnell said: "I've known Darren for a long time, going back to watching him during his time at Pontypridd and then at the Dragons, and he's a sheer raw talent.
"He's phenomenal at the breakdown, one of the best I've seen, and he has an abundance of energy. He's going to be an absolutely fantastic asset and a really positive addition to our environment."
Waters earned a professional deal after catching the eye with his abrasive performances in the Principality Premiership.
He did well in his first season, making 13 appearances in 2011/12, but suffered knee ligament damage in a pre-season friendly against London Irish in 2012 before enduring a repeat the following summer.


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You may also send us an email if you have any question about our site.


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Pretty returns to telco land with Mahindra Satyam
Lands chairman role, set to drive A/Pac expansion
India's IT outsourcing giant Mahindra Satyam has resurrected former high profile Telstra and Optus executive Ted Pretty, placing him in the chairman's role for its newly fleshed out Australia and New Zealand operations.
Signalling a new push in A/NZ, Pretty has been tasked to drive Mahindra Satyam and Tech Mahindra strategy across network engineering and operations, business intelligence and analytics, cloud, mobility and security, the company said.
As one of Telstra's more prolific M&A men, Pretty's experience will also be leveraged to facilitate expansion plans in the region as the diversifies into "higher service suite" business offerings.
In April, the company announced that it was expanding its local HQ in Sydney, promising hundreds of new jobs over the next three to five years.
Mahindra Satyam Australia & NZ Venki Prathivadi said that Australian revenues had doubled in the last three years with local customers driving demand for rich data analytic services.
Local clients include Vodafone and Optus. Just weeks after flagging the expansion and job creation Optus announced a restructure that would include the loss of 750 jobs , many of which reside in the support and back office sweet spot for Mahindra Satyam.
"Australia is very important strategically for us. Our commitment will not just be financial it will be intellectual as well," Prathivadi said.
Pretty has been quietly working on private ventures and start- up investments over the last few years and is non-executive director of NextDC, and holds chairing roles with digital media adviser and investor CMB Capital and SiteTour, a cloud based out-of-home advertising and data platform. ®
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First off, what the hell is the difference between a sweet potato and a yam? I thought I knew.
Every time I go to the store I wind up holding what is called a "yam" in one hand and a "sweet potato" in the other not knowing why the sweet potato is white and if my local grocery store just doesn't stock the orange ones or if they in fact don't exist. I have yet to happen upon this produce chupacabra. Is the joke on me? I'm not so sure....Are we all being fooled or am I the only one who is unable to find an orange sweet potato?
To make a long story short, I in fact used yams because like I said, the above mentioned do not exist, at least in my world. The color was all I was looking for and the flavor is essentially the same so I went with it (after probably 15 minutes of waffling and googling in the grocery store).
Mashed yams I made by roasting them and scooping out the innards
Regardless of the tuber used, these cupcakes turned out brilliantly and although this post is
I have be eyeing the recipe in Martha's "Cupcakes" book for some time and surprisingly got a huge response in favor of making them for Turkey Day. They are definitely appropriate but I figured the masses would be clamoring for chocolate and pies etc. instead of a sweet potato cupcakes. Turns out it was a great choice.
Also, as a side note, I think a marshmallow frosting or even a toasted meringue icing would really kick these up a notch. That is if you don't have a 3000 calorie meal beforehand. Or even if you do. Who am I to judge?
All I made was fudge for xmas and proceeded to eat it ALL so no posts necessary for that. Have I posted a fudge recipe? I can't believe it. It's my mom's recipe and the easiest and best fudge ever! Make and eat immediately! It's still fudge season (when isn't it?).
3C chocolate chips (for the love of God, use GOOD chocolate, it makes all the difference)
7oz sweetened condensed milk
1 tsp. vanilla (I often forget this in the excitement of fudge and haven't noticed a huge difference)
Melt chips and milk in a heavy bottomed pot and remove from heat, add the vanilla (if you remember) and pour into a 8X8 baking dish lined with wax paper. Put in the fridge for a couple hours to harden and then cut into cubes. Voila! Could it be any easier?!
No. It can't.
Photos by Collin Monda and myself.


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It all used to be so simple. People would hear a tune they liked on the radio, then go to a shop and buy the physical recording of it. Over the past few decades, this simple standard has fragmented into a diversity of consumption activities, from piracy and iTunes downloading to on-demand streaming from YouTube and others. Unfortunately, the majority of music consumption today generates little to no money for artists. We are working hard to fix this, and are proud to offer music fans a legal and paid service capable of generating for artists the royalties that they deserve.
By bringing listeners into our free, ad-supported tier, we migrate them away from piracy and less monetised platforms and allow them to generate far greater royalties than they were before. Once they are using our free tier, we drive users to our premium subscription tier, at least doubling the amount that they spend on music, from less than $5 per month (the average spent by download consumers in The US) to $9.99 per month for Spotify.We have succeeded in growing revenues for artists and labels in every country where we operate, and have now paid out more than $3 Billion USD in royalties to-date (more than $300m of which was paid out in the first three months of 2015 alone). We have proudly achieved these payouts despite having relatively few users compared to radio, iTunes or Pandora, and as we continue to grow we expect that we will generate many billions more in royalties!The chart below shows the decline in the recorded music industry since 1997. Whilst the growth of digital downloads has replaced some of this value, the majority of revenue in the industry has evaporated. This rapid decline is not due to a fall in music consumption but to a shift in music listening behavior towards formats that do not generate significant income for artists.
Spotify's model aims to regenerate this lost value by converting music fans from these poorly monetized formats to our paid streaming format, which produces far more value per listener. The chart below shows the money a Spotify Premium customer spends per year compared to the average spend of a US music consumer who buys music (not including those who spend $0 on music).
A Spotify Premium user delivers more than 2 x the amount of revenue to the industry (per year) as the average US music consumer currently does. Spotify's goal is to convince millions of people around the world to become Premium subscribers and by doing so to re-grow the music industry. The next section shows Spotify's progress in achieving this so far.
Spotify has already made considerable progress towards restoring the value lost to piracy and other less well monetized forms of music consumption. As of November 2015, Spotify had over 75 million monthly active users with more than 20 million people paying a monthly subscription to use Spotify's Premium tier.
The chart below shows Spotify's rapid user growth over the past few years:
The important fact to note is that for every new Spotify user, we increase the amount of revenue we receive and, in turn, the amount of royalties we pay out to the industry (see section below on how Spotify's royalties relate to revenues). The chart below shows how our user growth has resulted in rapid year-on-year growth in the amount of money Spotify pays out in royalties. In June 2015, Spotify's CEO Daniel Ek announced that we have now paid out over $3 billion in royalties with $300m of that coming in the first 3 months of 2015 alone.
In addition to increasing the royalties Spotify contributes to the industry, we've also successfully grown the amount of money each of our users is worth. By 2013, the amount of money we earn per user (average revenue per user) has grown to $41 per year. This is an average between our premium users who spend $120 per year and our free tier users who pay for their consumption by viewing and listening to advertising.
The average amount of money spent by US adults on music is $25, whereas the average Spotify user is worth $41 (our total revenue divided by our total # of users). Simply put, a Spotify customer is 1.6x more financially valuable than the average adult non-Spotify US music consumer.
All this being said, Spotify still has tremendous room to grow. By the end of 2014 Spotify was live in 58 countries around the world. In 2015, we plan to continue this to roll out to new markets around the world and this will help us add millions more users quickly and in turn enable us to pay even more out in royalties. This international growth will augment the already rapid growth in our existing markets.
Spotify makes money from two sources: a free tier supported by advertising and a paid subscription premium tier.
Spotify has two tiers which are free to use: one for desktop and tablet computers and one for mobile.The desktop and tablet free tier allows users to play any song in our catalog on-demand but users must view and listen to advertisements that interrupt their listening. Users on our mobile (smartphone) free tier can only play music in "Shuffle mode". They can not play songs on-demand or offline and face a number of other restrictions including limited song skips as well as being interrupted by advertising. For more information on our mobile free tier, please see this blog post.Advertisers pay Spotify for exposure to users on our free tiers and in-turn fund the royalties that Spotify pays out for listening that occurs in these tiers.
Spotify's Premium tier gives users unlimited music across all of their devices including smartphones, tablets and TVs. Users can also temporarily download songs to their devices for listening on subways or airplanes, play music at the highest quality and they are never shown advertisements. This tier costs $9.99 per month.
Spotify's total revenue comprises money received from advertising on the free tier and subscription payments on the premium tier.
Spotify pays royalties for all of the listening that occurs on our service by distributing nearly 70% of all the revenues that we receive back to rights holders. By "rights holders," we are referring to the owners of the music that is on Spotify: labels, publishers, distributors, and, through certain digital distributors, independent artists themselves. How does this work? Below is an overview of the royalty system Spotify employs. Please also see the next section for additional detail.
We pay out nearly 70% of our total revenue to rights holders. We retain approximately 30%:
That 70% is split amongst the rights holders in accordance with the popularity of their music on the service. The label or publisher then divides these royalties and accounts to each artist depending on their individual deals.
When we pay a rights holder, we provide all the information needed to attribute royalties to each of their artists.
The real measure of Spotify's success is our progress in 1) convincing music fans around the World to pay for music again (by converting millions of pirates into monetized users on our platform), and 2) increasing the total money spent by paying listeners by graduating them to a much more valuable form of consumption (away from free listening on YouTube and other services to Spotify – see the chart on relative payments above).
Every time somebody listens to a song on Spotify it generates payments, but Spotify does not calculate royalties based upon a fixed "per play" rate. Although much public discussion of Spotify has speculated about such a rate, our payouts for individual artists have grown tremendously over time as a result of our user growth, and they will continue to do so.
The royalties artists see on their royalty statements derive from the formula above on a country-by-country basis, and depend upon the many moving variables specified in the formula. Of course, it is possible to reverse engineer an effective "per stream" average by dividing one's royalties by the number of plays that generated them, but this is not how we measure our payouts internally nor is it a reliable yardstick for Spotify's value to artists.An artist's royalty payments depend on the following variables, among others: • In which country people are streaming an artist's music • Spotify's # of paid users as a % of total users; higher % paid, higher "per stream" rate • Relative premium pricing and currency value in different countries • An artist's royalty rateRecently, these variables have led to an average "per stream" payout to rights holders of between $0.006 and $0.0084. This combines activity across our tiers of service. The effective average "per stream" payout generated by our Premium subscribers is considerably higher.Again, we personally view "per stream" metrics as a highly flawed indication of our value to artists for several reasons. For one, our growing user population might listen to more music in a given month than the month before (resulting in a lower effective "per stream"), while generating far more aggregate royalties for artists. As with any subscription service, our primary goal is to attract and retain as many paying subscribers as we possibly can, and to pass along greater and greater royalties to the creators of the music in our service. Theoretically, another service could generate higher effective "per stream" payouts simply by having users who listen to far less music. We believe, however, that our service and the lives of artists will both be best if the World's music fans enjoy more music than ever before in a legal, paid manner.
The formula below explains the Spotify royalty system in more detail:
1. Spotify Monthly Revenue
The total revenue Spotify makes in a given month from advertising and subscriptions as explained above. This varies from country to country depending on a range of factors including how many users we have in that country, how many of them are premium subscribers and how much advertising we sell in that country.2. Artist's Spotify streams divided by total Spotify streamsThis calculates an artist's popularity on the service, their "market share." Dividing an artist's streams by the total streams on Spotify determines the percentage of our total pay-outs that should be paid for that artist's rights.3. Royalties paid to master and publishing owners
Spotify negotiates our royalty economics with labels and publishers in each territory where we operate. Our current payment agreements lead us to distribute (~)approximately 70% of our gross revenues to master recording and publishing rights (both mechanical reproduction and performance) holders. The precise division between these types of rights holders varies by territory in accordance with local laws and negotiated agreements. In the United States, for example, statutes dictate that publishers receive ~21% the amount that master recording owners receive.4. Artist's royalty rateOnce Spotify has paid a rights owner the total royalties due for their accumulated streams, that label or publisher pays each artist according to that artist's contractual royalty rates. This will likely also take into account other factors including recoupment status, which is one reason that different artists in different deals might ultimately receive different royalties from their respective labels and publishers.Independent artists can retain up to 100% of their royalty payouts from Spotify by using one of our aggregator partners (a small fee may apply). Click here for a list of these partners.5. Artist Pay OutThe end royalty paid out to the artist after the rights holder royalty split and any other deductions have been applied.
How does all of this work out in practice? The chart below shows actual royalty payments for a range of albums for the month of July 2013. We have replaced the names of the artists with descriptions to illustrate their scale.
The bars and $USD figures are the total royalties paid out to rights holders in July for actual albums on Spotify. Current monthly royalty payments for the #1 album on Spotify are upwards of $400k.
But even though we are currently generating millions of dollars in royalties for rights holders for the top artists each year, we're just getting started and expect to earn artists and rights holders far more as we grow our user base. The chart below projects future Spotify royalties based on our current growth trajectory.
Spotify is one of the most effective ways to monetize access to music. In addition to encouraging consumers to pay for music again, our rates are higher than many alternative services.The chart below shows the royalties Spotify pay to rights holders for every 1 million listens of an artist's music:
Spotify is paying artists more than 2x the amount that popular video services are paying out (supported by advertising) and significantly more than both online and terrestrial radio services.
Spotify is still a relatively small service, with 50 million users around the World. By contrast, YouTube has 1B users and iTunes has over 575 million users, only about 75 million of whom pay for music. iTunes is also the preferred tool for listening to pirated music, which generates nothing for artists. When Spotify grows to even a fraction of the size of these services, for example to 140 million total users and 40 million paying subscribers, we will increase our total payouts by 5x.
Spotify's high royalty payments in comparison to these other services means that if all of this streaming activity (from video and radio services) was through Spotify instead, then the amount of royalties generated in the US by streaming activity would more than double from $530m in 2013 (actual streaming royalties across all services) to $1.3bn (if all streaming occurred on Spotify).
Spotify was designed from the ground up to combat piracy. Founded in Sweden, the home of The Pirate Bay, we believed that if we could build a service which was better than piracy, then we could convince people to stop illegal file-sharing, and start consuming music legally again.A key part of this has been in ensuring that Spotify has a free tier. By offering this free tier, Spotify is able to compete with piracy on cost and bring music consumers into the legal framework. From there, Spotify does a very effective job at converting those users into Premium subscribers.This theory that 'given a free and legal alternative, people will pirate less' has been proven over the last 5 years with significant reductions in piracy across the territories where Spotify is established.
The chart above illustrates a key challenge in the modern music industry: young people and teenagers are the most likely age groups to pirate content and are also the least likely to pay for a music service. Spotify has been successful in convincing this younger generation to abandon piracy and begin using and paying for a legal service. In fact, over 50% of Spotify's paying subscribers are under the age of 29.How has Spotify impacted music piracy in the real world? There have been a number of independent studies into the impact that Spotify and similar legal services have had on piracy. Below are some of the findings and links to the original reports (some reports are not in English):
The UK regulator Ofcom completed their Copyright Infringement Tracker, Wave 4, in September 2013. Their key finding: of all digital music consumers, three quarters were legal only; just one seventh illegal only and a eighth were a combination of both.
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Q. Can you recommend a cool place to go on a hot day? I'm not that keen on beaches.
Daytripping to the Diefenbunker: Cool and creepy
By Kristin Goff
Q. Can you recommend a cool place to go on a hot day? I'm not that keen on beaches.
A. Sure, take a trip to Carp.
Q. Carp? You mean the quiet little village to the west of Ottawa?
A. That's it. It has interesting stuff to do and see, including the amazing Diefenbunker Museum, which is cool in every sense of the word.
Q. Really, how so?
A. Well, they don't call it the Cold War museum for nothing. (Sorry, just joking.) You won't need a coat to explore this weird underground museum, but the spooky concrete blast tunnel that you need to walk through as you enter is a sweater-worthy 15 degrees.
Plus, the whole place is weird and a bit creepy. It was designed as a massive bunker to house key government operations in the event of nuclear war. It's a good place to pick up "cool" tidbits to impress your friends.
Q. OK – enough with the "cool" puns. I get your meaning. Tell me more about the museum.
A. Well, the 100,000 square foot (9,290 square metre) underground complex was designed to support about 500 people for several weeks in the event of a nuclear war. It used enough steel to build the Eiffel Tower and has a roomful of 1960s-era computers that were state-of-the-art at the time, but couldn't begin to match the computing power of a basic cell phone today.
Prime Minister John Diefenbaker (hence the nickname) commissioned the secret bunker in 1959 but never stepped foot in the place. He was supposedly unhappy that his family couldn't join him. His room contains a small military-issue single bed with a desk in an adjoining room.
Q. Tell me more.
A. I found the decontamination rooms particularly chilling (sorry—I just can't help myself.) Everyone would have had to go through several steps of decontamination before being allowed in. After three attempts at decontamination, those who didn't meet radiation would be kicked back outside, presumably to die.
There's a big vault to store Bank of Canada gold and a tiny room in the hospital section with six bunk beds where they planned to lock up people who became too distraught to function.
Q. You recommended a visit to the Village of Carp. What else is there to do?
A. Since the Diefenbunker doesn't open until 11 a.m., you could go early and take in the Carp Farmers' Market, provided you are going on a Saturday. It runs from 8 a.m. to 1 p.m. every Saturday through Oct. 25. The organizers boast that it is the largest producer-based farmers' market in Ontario with everything from fresh garden vegetables to elk sausage and honey. In addition to farm products you'll find a few booths with craft items and perhaps a busker or two.
Q. Anything else?
A. Well, sure. What's an outing without some food? You can get things to eat at the farmers' market, but I like to go to Alice's Village Cafe, across the street from the main fairground entrance on Carp Road.
Q. What do you recommend?
A. If you are up for something totally goopy, there's a cinnamon bun called "The Big Nasty" that Alice's is known for. It even sells T-shirts with the Big Nasty on it so you can boast about your kajillion calorie breakfast or snack. Personally, I haven't tried it (big pat on back for me) but I'm a fan of their sandwiches and chips. All their baked goods are made on site, as are their chips, soups, lemonade and iced tea.
Q. Anything else?
A. When I have the time, I like to pop into The Hive an interesting old house next to Alice's Cafe that has divided its rooms into little shops offering flowers, new and used clothing for adults and children and jewelry, craft items and more.
Q. What are the details?
A. The Village of Carp is about 10 kilometers west of Kanata. To get there follow Highway 417 west to exit 144 (North Carp Road.) Follow that directly to the village where there will be signs directing you to the Diefenbunker and Farmers' Market.
More information, plus links to all of the attractions I've mentioned can be found at the Village of Carp website: villageofcarp.ca
Kristin Goff is an Ottawa freelance writer who likes adventures big and small, especially when there is food involved.


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Fally Ipupa (Feat. Olivia) - Chaise Electrique [African R&B]
One of our viewers showed us this video they report "This is just to show you guys how African RNB sounds like and coming strong. this video of fally ipupa (well know as the Congolese Craig David or the African Marvin Gaye) Olivia the ex g-unit. the tittle of the song is " chaise electrique " or (elctric chair ). im posting this video just to promot his ( fally ipupa) new album called " arsenal de belles melodies or armory of beautiful melodies."
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In tomorrow's Wall Street Journal column "The IRS's best friend in Congress," my daughter Eliana cites chapter and verse to refute the party line toed by House Oversight Committee Ranking Member Elijah Cummings as he seeks to obstruct the committee's investigation into the IRS scandal. This column advances our understanding of the disgraceful game that is afoot.
The events underlying the IRS scandal may have been orchestrated by the White House, or they may simply have been elicited by multifarious cues provided by the White House. That remains to be seen. The attempted obstruction of the investigations and the associated talking points (i.e., lies), however, surely are a pure product of the White House. Eliana writes:
The House Oversight Committee's investigation into the Internal Revenue Service's discrimination against conservative groups continues—but at least one unenthusiastic member seems to think the committee's work is done.
Over the objections of Chairman Darrell Issa (R., Calif.), Rep. Elijah Cummings (D., Md.) last week released online the full, 205-page transcript of an interview that committee investigators conducted with an IRS employee in Cincinnati named John Shafer. Mr. Cummings explained that he was compelled to release the Shafer transcript because it explodes Mr. Issa's "conspiracy theories"—chiefly, that the White House played a role in the targeting of conservative groups, and that it was orchestrated out of IRS headquarters in Washington, D.C. In fact, Mr. Issa has never said the former, and much that is known so far about the IRS scandal suggests that the Washington connection is substantial.
Mr. Cummings's enthusiasm for defending the IRS may make him a lonely figure among the 22 Republicans and 16 Democrats on the House Oversight Committee, but he is likely to find an ally in his chief counsel on the committee. She is Susanne Sachsman Grooms, who worked for the IRS between 2008 and 2011 as an adviser to the deputy commissioner for services and enforcement and then as a senior counselor to the chief of criminal investigations. At the time, the deputy commissioner for services and enforcement—her boss—was none other than Steven Miller, who held the post of IRS commissioner from November 2012 until his resignation in May after the scandal broke. Mr. Cummings also has a strong tie to the Obama administration: His staff director on the Oversight Committee, David Rapallo, is a former White House lawyer.
The release of the Shafer transcript came after a June 12 interview with Politico in which Mr. Cummings labeled the Oversight Committee's investigation a "witch hunt"—in other words, something that should end immediately. A few days before that, in a June 9 CNN interview, he said, "The IG made some recommendations, those recommendations are being adopted by the IRS . . . I think we're in great shape."
As it happens, the revelation of Mr. Shafer's testimony isn't likely to discourage the investigation….
Please check it out and read the whole thing.


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The Biochemical Society provides an extensive range of events, including scientific conferences, training events, outreach activities, medal lectures, and policy and education events. This programme provides an excellent opportunity to magnify your research by submitting an abstract for an oral communication or poster presentation, and sharing your work with the wider molecular biosciences community.
Contact our events team here.
Find out about our policy and public engagement events:
Monash University Prato Centre, Italy
A Biochemical Society Focused Meeting - co-organized by the Biochemical Society and Monash University.
Meeting background
A two-day meeting based at Prato in Italy, which will consider recent advances in G-protein coupled receptor structure and function, building on new concepts arising from biophysics, crystallography, pharmacology and cell biology.
Reviews by the speakers, based on their presentations at this major international meeting, will be published exclusively in Biochemical Society Transactions (Volume 41, part 1).
Abstract deadline: 11 July 2012.
Abstract submission for this meeting is now closed. If you would like to submit an abstract please contact the conference office.
Earlybird registration deadline: 13 August 2012.
Registration for this meeting is now closed. If you wish to attend the meeting please contact the Conference Office.
Not a member of the Biochemical Society? Join today and save up to £100 on your registration fee.
Oral communication slots are available at this meeting. All attendees, particularly researchers in the early stages of their career, are invited to submit a poster abstract for consideration as an oral communication.
'Eureka Moments: The protein that disappeared' As part of our centenary celebrations, a number of the Society's Honorary Members have been asked to talk about the important moments in their careers and the future of the discipline.
The third to be released is that of Tim Hunt who spoke to Hugh Pelham about discovering the protein that disappeared. Watch the interview now!
Approved by the Society of Biology for the purpose of CPD, this event may be counted as 54 CPD credits.


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Chat is available between 9 a.m. to
3 p.m. on Monday through Friday.
For more information and to chat.
Diagnostic Medical Imaging Radiography (DMIR), or X-ray, involves the administration of ionizing radiation to produce images of the human body for diagnostic purposes. Radiographers take X-rays (radiographs) and perform a variety of diagnostic imaging procedures. In the Radiography program, students learn the skills necessary to produce high-quality diagnostic images of patients, as directed by physicians who are qualified to order and perform such procedures. In addition, students provide short-term patient care and practice radiation safety.
Radiographers work in both clinical and hospital environments, primarily within diagnostic medical imaging (radiology) departments, but also in other areas such as emergency rooms, operating rooms, nurseries or patient rooms within a hospital.
In addition to applying knowledge of human anatomy, radiographers must be educated in the areas of radiographic patient positioning, radiographic physics and equipment, radiographic film critique, basic pathophysiology and patient care. Radiographers must be mentally alert and able to perform quickly and accurately in stressful situations. Excellent psychomotor and communication skills are also required, as is the ability to follow directions, work cooperatively with other health care professionals, and have compassion for the sick and injured.
For more information about this exciting career, visit the Frequently Asked Questions page.
Program Mission Statement
The primary purpose of the Radiography program is to educate students with didactic, laboratory and clinical experience in preparation for the administration of ionizing radiation to humans for diagnostic purposes. Program policies and procedures are designed to meet or exceed those established by the Joint Committee on Education in Radiologic Technology (JRCERT). Graduates will demonstrate competency to meet state licensure, and/or certification requirements defined by law for whole-body radiography, deliver compassionate patient care and function as an integral member of a health care team with competence and confidence.
Program Goals and Outcomes
Goal #1: Students will demonstrate clinical competence.
- Students will position patients with accuracy;
- Students will select appropriate technical factors;
- Students will apply principles of radiation protection.
Goal #2: Students will demonstrate critical thinking skills.
- Students will demonstrate competency in image evaluation;
- Students will apply knowledge and skills to practical situations;
- Students will perform non-routine procedures.
Goal #3: Students will demonstrate professional and ethical behavior.
- Students will demonstrate professional behavior;
- Students will demonstrate ethical behavior.
Goal #4: Students will communicate effectively.
- Students will demonstrate written communication skills;
- Students will demonstrate oral presentation skills;
- Students will effectively communicate in the healthcare environment.
Accreditation Status
The DMIR program is accredited through the Joint Review Committee on Education in Radiologic Technology (JRCERT). Information regarding program effectiveness can be found by visiting the JRCERT website at www.jrcert.org.
If you are interested in learning more about this program, please
- Attend an advising session
- Visit a Health Career Program Advisor by calling (630) 942-2259 to make an appointment.
- For information or general inquiries, please send an email to firstname.lastname@example.com. (Please use above phone number only to schedule an appointment. Do not send an appointment request to this email).
Feedback/compliments/concerns regarding this Health Science Program. For general inquiries, please use contact information listed above.
3+1 ProgramHealthcare Mgmt.
COD and Concordia University Chicago 3 + 1 Bachelor of Arts Degree in Healthcare Management for students with an AAS in Diagnostic Medical Imaging Radiography
Diagnostic Medical Imaging and Radiography Programs at COD
Diagnostic Medical Imaging and Radiography Programs
COD trains students to meet the demands for skilled medical imaging technologists with a comprehensive Diagnostic Medical Imaging and Radiography curriculum. DMIR at College of DuPage includes Radiography, Sonography, Nuclear Medicine and Radiation Therapy.
Pathophysiology Panorama Video
10th Annual Pathophysiology Panorama
More than 70 students from the COD Diagnostic Medical Imaging programs in Radiography, Nuclear Medicine and Sonography will display posters and other media featuring a variety of diseases and pathologies that have been detected using various imaging modalities.
College of DuPage
425 Fawell Blvd., Glen Ellyn IL, 60137
(630) 942-2800 (Main)
(630) 942-3000 (Student Services)
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