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Route Setting: Ethos, Aesthetics and Mechanics by Sean Milligan
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Nov 8, 2012, 10:44 AM
Post #1 of 11 (9452 views)
Registered: Aug 5, 2012
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Route Setting: Ethos, Aesthetics and Mechanics by Sean Milligan
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This is an article my friend sent me and I thought I would share with the rest of you, since I have been doing more asking then giving. I made bullets of what I thought were key points in this article. Enjoy and welcome any feedback.
Route Setting: Ethos, Aesthetics and Mechanics
by Sean Milligan
As Ive been making the rounds over the past few months touring through a few different climbing facilities - many people have been asking me about route setting. Wherein the questions have tended to focus on Am I doing any route setting? and have frequently been followed by much appreciated compliments they havent really resulted in any burning desire to instantly go and hang myself on the end of a rope for a few hours. They have, however, generated a number of thoughts related to the ethos and aesthetic of route setting and just how subjective the ethos and aesthetic can be. Route setting in a climbing gym is just one of those things its a prestige position a certain amount of honor and respect are assigned to those who have been given the privilege of placing the holds on the wall and everyone has an opinion has to how it should be done.
Part 1: ETHOS
Now before I get started here, I should concede two things: the first concession being that everything Im about to say pertains only to every day route setting activities in a gym not competition setting I believe (quite firmly) that the two are entirely different things (and thats a discussion for a different day); the second concession being that, including the first concession, all Im really doing is throwing my opinions in to the mix (and wherein they are opinions formed through the experience of setting, quite literally, thousands of climbs and boulder problems over the past 15 years, they are in the end just opinions (and hence it is a given that many out there will disagree with one or more of the things I have to say)). Those concessions aside, Im hoping I wont generate too much controversy by suggesting that any discussion concerning the quality of a setter (or their routes) should start by discussing the overall responsibilities of the route setter (beyond just putting holds on the wall).
Of course route setters (and even more, the Head Route Setter) have the responsibility to ensure the gym is free of mechanical hazards (spinning holds, bad clipping stances and fall scenarios). In a broader sense, route setters also have, in terms of the type of climbs they build (and distribution across the grade range), responsibility not just to the strongest climbers that frequent their facility but to all patrons of the facility the responsibility to create an environment that is enjoyable and conducive to both continuous learning and sustainable physical development. The setters then have the obligation to create climbs and problems that dont exclude climbers for sake of proportions (or are otherwise plain old frustrating) and that encourage climbers to develop and employ sound technique (instead of just power). In other words, the setters have the responsibility to create an environment where all patrons have the opportunity to improve as climbers without being led into potentially injurious situations.
The potential for questionable setting arises in that in most climbing gyms, those who are perceived to be the best climbers and boulderers perform the route setting activities. Wherein this may seem like a sound practice, best is too often equated with strongest those who have climbed (or are working on) the hardest routes/problems and the route setting ranks become populated by those trying to make a name for themselves within the climbing community (or otherwise strut their stuff). In such scenarios (and there are many), there lays the possibility for route setting to move away from responsibility and customer satisfaction and trend towards some sort of pissing contest - the setters spend an inordinate amount of time trying to set tricky sequences, moves that must be done in a specific way/require a huge amount of power or otherwise trying to make people fall (an ends which is often supplemented through a little recreational sandbagging).
From the perspective of the route setter, the difficulties with this approach are limited - ultimately an exchange of time and money for a few laughs - but the difficulties from the perspective of the members and the facility are many. Climbs and problems established by this ideology will always frustrate those at the extreme ends of the height/reach spectrum (or who are otherwise unable to determine the exact right moves to progress) and encourage exertion under fatigue as people attempt to perform/repeat powerful moves. The net result is an environment that is often less than satisfying, at best suited to power training and at worst conducive to injury.
Some of the negative effects of the pissing contests and show boating can easily be avoided if those doing the setting keep in mind some of the larger objectives/responsibilities outlined above while setting but the greatest positive change in terms of both the quality of routes and the environment created is achieved if (and when) those doing the setting adopt a different ideology towards the actual act of setting. Recognizing that this will be amongst the most contentious of the opinions Im going to express. I would suggest that the point in setting in climbing gym (aside from competition setting) is to simulate, as best as possible, what might be encountered while climbing on rock. Understanding (and knowing) that climbing (and climbing gyms) has (and have) become more social/recreational in nature over the past decade and that many using climbing gyms these days never have (and perhaps never will) touch rock. I would also put forth that most climbing gyms were established as training facilities for those who were already climbing outdoors and the people who were setting the climbs and problems were doing so based on their outdoor climbing experience.
Now whether or not you agree with the simulation of rock as the point of setting what I propose is that climbs set with the intent of simulating a natural surface are not as likely to exclude/frustrate those of extreme proportions, more conducive to training technique and efficiency (instead of just power) and as a result less likely to injure climbers. Plastic and concrete will, of course, never be a substitute for rock and using the two in an attempt to simulate a natural surface may seem daunting but more often than not, the important aspects of a natural climb can be mimicked with a change in objective and two concessions on the part of the route setter.
In short, the setters objective should not be to force moves; there are very few climbs on rock where everybody has to do a move in exactly the same way, some but not many. Instead, the objective should be an ideal hand hold sequence, perhaps with specific moves in mind but with some allowance for variation in how climbers move between the holds. This variation can easily be conceded and introduced if setters add extra holds in two situations: an intermediate handhold to initiate/assist long reaches and an intermediate foothold so that climbers can utilize more of the lower body musculature in the case of mantles and high steps.
Yes, the potential for variation means that some climbers will be able to do moves/sequences in ways that are frustrating (instead of letting it bother you, just remember one of the few truths of climbing: any fool can make a climb harder than its supposed to be, the real trick is to make a climb as easy as it can be). More importantly, the potential for variation means that instead of being forced to repeat the same move over and over again, climbers can engage in efficiency based training methods - refining their approach to climbs and problems over time. As a result, climbers can simultaneously develop strength and technique a process that is both more stimulating and sustainable than one which just develops power, which could be just as easily achieved by lifting weights. All told, what Im suggesting is that if climbs and problems are set with the objective of simulating rock with the appropriate concessions on the part of the setter the climbs and boulder problems produced will be more conducive to effective (injury free) training programs and enjoyed by a larger proportion of the climbing community.
For my part, I must admit that there was a time while setting I was very interested in making people do specific moves. Over time I came to understand that the best routes were the routes that a number of different people, all of different size, could make their way to the top of, all in subtly different ways, and all agree on the grade.
o Have the responsibility to ensure the gym is free of mechanical hazards (spinning holds, bad clipping stances and fall scenarios)
o Have the responsibility to create an environment that is enjoyable and conducive to both continuous learning and sustainable physical development
o Have the obligation to create climbs and problems that dont exclude climbers for sake of proportions and that encourage climbers to develop and employ sound technique instead of just power
o Have the responsibility to create an environment where all patrons have the opportunity to improve as climbers without being led into potentially injurious situations
o To simulate, as best as possible, what might be encountered while climbing on rock
o Are setting climbs and problems based on their outdoor climbing experience
o Set climbs/ problems with the intent of simulating a natural surface
o Objective should not be to force moves
o Objective should be an ideal hand hold sequence, with some allowance for variation in how climbers move between the holds
o Add extra holds in two situations: an intermediate handhold to initiate/assist long reaches and an intermediate foothold so that climbers can utilize more of the lower body musculature in the case of mantles and high steps
o Create climb/ problems that climbers can engage in efficiency based training methods, so climbers can simultaneously develop strength and technique
Any fool can make a climb harder than its supposed to be, the real trick is to make a climb as easy as it can be
The best routes were the routes that a number of different people, all of different size, could make their way to the top of
Dec 11, 2012, 8:18 AM
Post #2 of 11 (9157 views)
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Re: [Carlo890] Route Setting: Ethos, Aesthetics and Mechanics by Sean Milligan
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Original posting and follow up can be found here:
Dec 12, 2012, 2:26 AM
Post #3 of 11 (9077 views)
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Re: [limestone_cowboy] Route Setting: Ethos, Aesthetics and Mechanics by Sean Milligan
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Hey Limestone_cowboy,
Thank you for that post.
-Carlo C
Dec 16, 2012, 6:02 AM
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Re: [Carlo890] Route Setting: Ethos, Aesthetics and Mechanics by Sean Milligan
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Route Setting: Ethos, Aesthetics and Mechanics
Part 2: AESTHETICS
Perhaps the only things more difficult for a route setter to accept beyond having the responsibility to consider all members of the facility is .that every piece of work they do will be evaluated (and commented upon) by every member of the facility. For the route setter, this is not just a matter of being thick skinned its well worth considering both the compliments and criticisms as a form of performance evaluation. Much of the commentary will be a direct result of the moves that have been set (everyones entitled to their opinion) and the value of the opinions can be weighed and accounted for over time as appropriate. There is, however, another area of critique that pertains to nothing more than how those moves have been presented to/placed before the climber(s). It may seem like a somewhat intangible quality difficult to address but most of the evaluation pertains to one strategy that all climbers (should) practice and one question that (outdoor) climbers hate.
The element of climbing/climber strategy that the setter should attempt (is obliged) to address is .surveying the route i.e. the climber should be able to examine/see the general path of the route in question to identify sequences and rests before leaving the ground. Needless to say, if theres too much clutter on the walls (holds and/or tape), the route is not going to stand out in any way and ..surveying the route properly is going to be difficult (if not impossible). To my mind (and the minds of many) the only thing more frustrating than encountering a stupid move on a manufactured climb is ..having to ask Is that mine? The frustration could be experienced by an outdoor climber who is accustomed to using all parts of all available surfaces or by someone who is concerned about ethics or blowing a flash but either way ..Im of the opinion that its an unnecessary (and unwelcome) part of the indoor climbing experience. Some may suggest that there is benefit in being forced to search for the holds (hands or feet) that are required to complete a given route in terms of simulating a natural surface, but I would (and will) contest that the true trick in climbing a natural surface is not finding a hold to use .its finding the right hold to use. That said, what I propose is that a route setter should, as part of their overall process, take steps to eliminate any doubt in the climbers mind as to what is and what is not considered part of the route in question.
The first step towards eliminating any questions of this nature is identifying what factors/conditions produce them and .I would suggest that the two largest contributors are features of the walls themselves - ranging from arêtes and open books to holds (hands and feet) that are a permanent part of the surface (such as might be included on EntrePrise, Eldorado, Rockwerx or Pyramide walls (to name a few)) and .the holds that have been used to construct neighbouring/overlapping climbs.
The simplest solution to questions arising from surface features is to include all such features (hands and feet) on all climbs the truth of that matter is that most people are going to put their hands and feet all over them anyways. For those who are working at (or near) their limit, theres something kind of annoying about having to consciously avoid using good holds for the sake of doing something hard and for those looking to do something a little harder well they can avoid using features as they see fit. In the case of arêtes and open books, if the feature is not to be used it seems more reasonable to construct the route such that the climber is moved away from the feature than it is to expect that people wont attempt to use it if its close enough for hand or foot placements. Knowing (and understanding) that layout in some facilities may make this approach challenging (if not impossible) especially for wood framing in a tight space confusion and questions can be reduced through adopting a convention (i.e. such features are always in or always out unless stated) and sticking with it. All that said, I would also suggest that questions arising from features of the walls themselves are far easier to account for (and far less annoying to the engaged climber) than those that arise due to holds on neighbouring (or overlapping) climbs.
Some facilities attempt to address the effect of neighbouring climbs through the use of taped boundaries but at the same time I acknowledge and appreciate the effort, I would also suggest its limited in its application and not completely effective. Taped boundaries are of little use in the case of overlapping climbs (the existence of which will be justified in Part 3) and pieces of tape are often removed (generally by sloppy foot work close to the climb boundary) instantly placing climbers back in the situation which was trying to be avoided. As such, a more successful approach to highlighting the holds that are (and are not) included as part of a given route is to construct routes using only one colour of hold. Yes, this may limit what holds can be used for a given climb (and as a result place some limitations on what type of climb can be built) but .both these problems can be addressed with a little forethought on the part of the setter (which, it could be argued, is amongst the things they are being paid for).
Even if a climb is constructed using only one colour, climbers may still have to search for holds, or practice some form of discrimination while climbing but ..aside from those with forms of colour blindness (@10% of males and 0.5% of females), colour focus/distinction is relegated to the unconscious level somewhat quickly (leaving climbers free to focus on other aspects of the climb (and climbing)). That said, the effectiveness of this approach cab be augmented by taking two additional steps .
(1) Use similarly coloured tape to mark holds;
In short, consistency of colour (along with the increased visual footprint offered by the piece of tape) will make finding holds that much easier for the climber. Yes, like with taped boundaries, pieces of tape are likely to be removed over time BUT .given that the route is colour consistent, the effects of removed tape are not quite as pronounced AND .while the tape lasts, it will assist climbers in both surveying the route and finding the appropriate holds while climbing. Of course, colour consistency with taping will introduce some limitations in terms of quantity (there are only so many colours of both tape and holds) and is only truly effective for actual climbs. In the case of designated bouldering areas (and boulder problems), the easiest (and most effective) approach is to use tape colour to designate difficulty. Used this way, tape (and colour) serve not only to designate/mark a specific problem but also to assist the climber/boulderer in identifying other problems of a similar grade.
It is, at this point, worth noting that taping of holds taping anywhere for any reason in the facility for that matter has an impact on the overall appearance of the facility and is worth paying attention to/exercising control over. There are some facilities that extend the notion and put in place taping guidelines (or something like that) such that every piece of tape on the wall must be facing in the same direction but this approach has its drawbacks too. As well intentioned as idea may be, the overall effect is agitating (kind of like looking at BAD modern art), in some scenarios counterproductive and in the long run its a little easier (and more visually pleasing) to place tape using a few simple principles ..
(a) Tape should be placed such that the hold itself (hand or foot) plays a part in keeping the tape on the wall (i.e. some of the tape should be underneath the hold)
(b) Tape should not meet the hold at a contact surface pieces of tape that meet a contact point will quickly be removed from the wall by sloppy climbers (of which there are many) and .have the potential to change the nature/feel of the climb (even for those who are not sloppy)
(c) Tape should line up with/point towards t-nut in general, this means that tape will be oriented somewhat symmetrically with respect to hold
(d) Tape should give some indication of hold orientation if tape lines up with obvious line/feature on hold .it can be used to re-orient the hold if it spins
(e) Length of exposed tape should be somewhat consistent different length pieces of tape marking a route look sloppy (end of story).
(2) Choose carefully the colour of neighbouring climbs
The overall idea is .all climbs should be similarly constructed holds and tape colour consistent but .the colour of adjacent climbs should be selected to offer enough visual contrast for each climb to stand out against its neighbours. There are some obvious contrasts that work very well - blue and yellow, yellow and green (bad for some), blue and white, red and white (always nice around Christmas). At the same time, there are some colour combinations that should be avoided depending on the exact shades purple/red or blue/purple end up looking like a big bruise on the wall; red/green is worth avoiding (unless you wish to mess with those who are colour blind) and yellow/red always looked to me eye like a McDonalds add. In the end, there are many more combinations with strange associations ultimately its a matter of personal preference and the easiest approach is just to avoid combinations of colours that dont offer an immediate and obvious visual contrast (ex: red and orange or combinations of dark colours).
As important as making a route stand out and reducing hassle for the climber are I would suggest that of equal importance is making the visual sales pitch drawing the climbers eye to the line and giving them a reason to get excited about the climb before they even leave the ground (obviously, this is far easier to do if the climber can actually see the route in question). One of the easiest ways to draw a climbers attention to a route is to include a big feature hold something that makes them think I want to go up there and put my hands on that. That said, the sales pitch ends if climbers are able to touch the hold without leaving the ground and some effort should be put into placing the hold far enough up the wall that climbers actually have to start the route to get their hands on it. Other ways to generate a little pre-climb excitement include taking the climb to (or through) an intimidating feature on the wall or by using an assortment of obviously nasty holds to build the route (kind of depends on whose attention it is youre trying to get). Taking a broader perspective, the ideology and process is really accomplishing two things: not only does it serve to draw the climbers attention to the route ..it also helps to generate a positive (or at least productive) headspace before their hands even touch the wall.
In the end, the success of a route setter and the quality of their routes will always be measured and determined by the people who are climbing their routes. That said, at the heart of what Ive put forth here is .most of the evaluation and criticism is (and will be) completely subjective and the route setter serves their own interests by considering not just physiology but also psychology to build a foundation for success by taking steps to eliminate objective sources of hassle and confusion and .to generate a little excitement both on the wall and on the ground.
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by limestone_cowboy on Dec 16, 2012, 6:03 AM)
Jan 4, 2013, 7:30 AM
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Re: [limestone_cowboy] Route Setting: Ethos, Aesthetics and Mechanics by Sean Milligan
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Route Setting: Ethos, Aesthetics and Mechanics
Part 3: MECHANICS
Wherein much of what I have had to say on the topic of route setting thus far could be construed as valuable to pretty much any member of the (indoor) climbing community if for no other reason than having provided some ammunition for personal battles with setters and facility owners - it seems best to point out right now that this section is intended primarily for the new (or aspiring) route setter and ..may prove a little too technical (and boring!) for those not directly involved with the activity. That said, the biggest advances for the route setter in terms of the mechanics of their work will come from the realisation that their survival (both physical and financial) is dependent upon not just what moves are set (Part 1) and how those moves are presented (Part 2) but also upon the actual process used to place the holds on the wall.
At the heart of what Im attempting to describe is route setters are generally paid close to minimum wage (a truly egregious situation given the level of skill and experience required to set properly) or the labour is conducted as piece work. For those unfamiliar with the term, it means that the work is assigned a set dollar value and .its up to the route setter to finish in an amount of time that equates to a reasonable hourly wage. The problem being ..route setting - though not the most complex task in the world - involves a large number of finicky steps or pieces and if the process isnt approached with sufficient forethought time will invariably disappear minute by minute. As such, the route setter does well to carefully examine each step of the route setting process, to identify and eliminate all the ways in which time is wasted and .to make the process as a whole as efficient as possible. The first step towards achieving this efficiency is establishing a systematic approach and establishing a systematic approach starts by breaking the task as a whole into discrete sub-tasks (see below). The second step would be deciding what order those steps should be taken in and ..given that most facilities keep all holds and tools required for route setting in the same place, I would suggest that the sub-tasks be completed in the order in which they have been presented.
(a) Examining the wall and envisioning the line
If theres any one group of people that can fritter away the hours fawning and drooling over climbing holds its route setters. Its not that the time is wasted a route setter does well to familiarize themselves with the holds that their facility has available and muse on all the different ways they could be used. Its more that unless some restrictions are placed on the holds that could be selected for a route BEFORE the setter enters the hold area ..hold selection (and daydreaming) will consume a huge proportion of their time. Of course, the setter should know what wall they are going to be setting and the desired grade before attempting to select holds but what they should ALSO do is stand in front of the wall thats to be set and survey the terrain imagine the climb that is about to be and its relationship with neighbouring routes both in terms of path and colour.
Selecting a colour for the climb (one that offers contrast to that of its neighbours) and imagining a path for the climb ..generates further restrictions on the holds that could be considered suitable - beyond those already resulting from the angle of the wall and desired grade - and as such .limits the amount of time that the setter will spend casting their eyes (and hands) around while selecting holds. Its not that the setter shouldnt spend time selecting appropriate holds - its just that I know from experience that being in a well-stocked hold area is very much like being in a candy store - if you dont go in with some sort of idea as to what you want .youll spend all your time looking around (instead of getting on to the business of eating candy).
The overall message being, for sake of saving time it is only once the wall has been surveyed and the necessary decisions made the setter should make their way to the hold/tool area.
(b) Holds and Tools For Stripping and Setting
One of the greatest, and for the most part avoidable, wastes of time while route setting are the potential trips back and forth between the hold area and the wall that is being set. Moreover, one of the greatest, and for the most part avoidable, wastes of energy while setting are the potential trips up and down the rope. In both cases, the waste is usually as a result of forgotten (or worse .dropped) tools and/or a shortage of holds. As such, the setter does well to make sure they have everything that MIGHT be required BEFORE they leave the hold area.
Depending on the specifics of the facility, there will always be some variation in the safety equipment required but would suggest that the base tool requirements for route setting are pretty much universal:
- Hex keys (2 imperial and 1 metric if setting on Walltopia or Pyramide (ideally .two of each))
- Appropriately sized screw driver and wood screws (wood framing only)
Over time, I just decided to keep all of my tools in a separate crate which I always carried to the base of the line being set; in the end this crate also contained
- Steel brush (cleaning holds and features)
- Rubber hammer (removing fused holds)
- Extra hardware (draws, bolts and hangers)
- Vice grips (for dealing with stripped T-nuts and maintenance of fixed gear)
In terms of the holds that will be required ..well I have seen (and been given) instructions that break down the number of holds required per metre of climbing and Im not going to do that theres just too much variation and subjectivity in setting to do so usefully. What I will suggest is that once youve selected all of the holds that you think youre going to need and fit them with appropriately sized bolts, add the following:
- 3 5 extra handholds
- 5 8 extra footholds
- 10+ extra bolts of various sizes
* (Estimate based on @10 m of climbing)
Carrying extras means ..if theres been an error in envisioning the route or holds are dropped/broken during the setting process, there wont be an extra trip down (and back up) the rope to fix the problem. The assortment of extra bolts is, again, just to make sure theres no waste of energy or time accounting for an error in judgement (or coordination).
Before leaving the hold area the only other thing to grab would be ..crates/storage containers for all of the holds that are going to be stripped off the wall. That said, with sufficient foresight there shouldnt be a return trip to the hold area until a new route is set and tools and dirty holds are being returned to the hold area.
(c) Stripping
Theres some argument to be made, in terms of efficiency, to simultaneously stripping and setting ..obviously I dont feel this way. From an objective stand point, theres bound to be a little clutter/confusion if youre trying to do both at the same time (which slows things down) and from a completely subjective standpoint ..well I always preferred practicing my art on a clean slate. In the end, the choice is up to the individual but ..I honestly recommend stripping before setting.
That said, it is in stripping a wall that the piece work mentality will offer the greatest returns and in my experience ..the greatest efficiency is achieved in approaching the task as follows:
- Strip from the ground
- Strip from a ladder
- Strip top down on rope
* By stripping in this order, you minimise the amount of time you spend on the rope and ..the amount of weight on your harness while you are on the rope
In each case, try to minimise the number of positions you work from and stick to the following ideologies:
- Reach as far as possible
- Do EVERYTHING that can be done with a specific tool before switching tools
* Switching tools putting one down and searching for another wastes time second by second
With the above ideologies in mind, perform the stripping tasks in the following order
- Remove wood screws (surface/climb dependent)
- Remove holds with large hex
- Remove holds with small hex
- Remove tape
Theres no denying that stripping a wall really is labour its not terribly exciting and consumes a fair amount of energy. That said, it is a necessary evil but .if you stick to what Ive described above it will be over with quickly allowing you to move on to the act of actually setting
(d) Setting
Wherein I do intend to make some comments about moves that one should (or at least that it would be better to) avoid setting, it is not my intent to tell anyone what type of moves should be set .only to suggest a systematic means of approaching the process one that will, in the long run, minimise the amount of time and energy expended moving up and down the rope. That said, my recommendation is that actual setting of the route proceed as follows:
1. Place starting hand and foot holds before connecting to the rest of the system; mark (with tape) position for next hand hold
2. After connecting, assemble the rest of the climb ground up marking positions for low foot holds with tape
* Foot placements are generally located/decided upon once they are below your centre of gravity its easier to mark the location and continue upwards (instead of lowering and re-jugging OR using body tension/extended reach to place hold)
* Holding difficult positions to place holds will be the largest expenditure of energy (also when you are most likely to drop a hold or tool); consider using a personal safety or specialized tool (see Part 4) to make things easier (and safer)
3. While lowering back down, place footholds and secure potential spinners (see Part 4)
* This is also a good time to inspect any fixed gear on the climb check carabineers and slings for wear, ensure that any screw gates (as on quick links) are tightened to a locked position
In terms of the type of moves or the nature of the climb ..I would (humbly) make only the following suggestions .
(i) Avoid setting hand & foot matches (except on holds obviously designed for such things): Yes, a hand or foot match can be hard but ..its an annoying kind of hard and people are likely to screw up the sequence and have to match on holds anyways
(ii) Avoid setting moves that stretch the climber out to either a shallow two finger pocket or undercling such moves are a good way to damage climbers.
(iii) Keep in perspective your own power and reach as compared to those who are likely to attempt the climb
(iv) If youre setting a lead climb make sure to set (or at least consider) a clipping stance for the leader at each clip AND .always consider the fall a leader would take from any position YOU take them to
(v) Always use a jug (relative to grade) as the final hold on the climb
Once youve finished setting or once you think you have theres one last thing to do before returning all of your tools, extras and stripped holds to the hold area - forerun the climb yourself and better yet watch another climber comfortable at the alleged grade forerun it too. Often the setter is locked into their imagined sequence and fuelled by honor the only way to make sure the moves work the way you would like (or in a way that you are comfortable with) is to get someone else to test them
Having performed pretty much all duties in a climbing gym at one point or another over the years, I can honestly say that setting climbs was always the most labour intensive and ..the most satisfying. Some of the satisfaction was as a result of completing a task and some from the joy of creation but most of it was ALWAYS as a result of being able to share what had been created with people who genuinely appreciated it (and listening to them curse and take my name in vain).
Jan 18, 2013, 11:53 AM
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Re: [limestone_cowboy] Route Setting: Ethos, Aesthetics and Mechanics by Sean Milligan
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This has been a GREAT read. I have a question about grading/rating a route (understanding the relative and subjective nature of rating):
What is the minimum a roof route should be rated?
I have an indoor facility and some controversy has been stirred up concerning a V3 roof climb?? It's juggy, but a few patrons are flashing flat wall 3's and then bailing at the 1st couple moves on the roof....
Insight on how to clean up and adjust the roof is encouraged. I want my experienced climbers AS WELL as the gumbies to enjoy the roof.
Jan 19, 2013, 4:15 AM
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Re: [Bastonydaga] Route Setting: Ethos, Aesthetics and Mechanics by Sean Milligan
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Bastonydaga wrote:
What is the minimum a roof route should be rated?
That's a tough one, but as in many things: it depends.
I've got a V0- on a 20-25 degree roof right now: huge handle-bar holds every 18" for ~7 feet, then big jugs to pull up onto the 80 degree face and to the top.
No way it's anything close to a V3 or V2, and still easier than a real V1.
Remember that roof/overhung climbing requires an additional set of skills (technique) than relatively vertical climbing. If your patrons don't have that technique figured out then it's going to be a lot harder for them.
Jan 19, 2013, 4:50 AM
Post #8 of 11 (8290 views)
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Re: [Bastonydaga] Route Setting: Ethos, Aesthetics and Mechanics by Sean Milligan
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Hi Bastonydaga....
Glad you have enjoyed the read, I understand the issue you are describing/experiencing but.....am somewhat unclear as to whether you are describing a long boulder problem or a lead route (more accustomed to lead routes being graded with YDS).
In either case, the discrepancy could be, as acorneau suggested, one of technical/physical development.....climbing roof can require elements of strength, endurance and technique which your newer climbers have yet to develop. In the case of a lead route, these "problems" would be, if anything, pronounced, as many new lead climbers are a little apprehensive of clips and falls on (and off) a roof.
On the bright side.......most new (lead) climbers look at a roof climb with a bit of a twinkle (or fear) in their eyes - they seem to know it's something to aim for. The fact that they are experiencing difficulty with it (while being able to see other people climbing it) will give them the incentive to keep coming back and.......keep training.
All that said.......it may well be that the addition/rearrangement of holds could make things a little easier and if you are able to forward along photo/video.......I'd be happy to have a look and see if I can make any suggestions.
Climb Safe,
Jan 19, 2013, 5:06 AM
Post #9 of 11 (8287 views)
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Re: [limestone_cowboy] Route Setting: Ethos, Aesthetics and Mechanics by Sean Milligan
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For "All".......
If you've enjoyed reading this thread and/or better yet have found it helpful/informative in some way......further instalments and more are available at
- all visits, likes and shares are greatly appreciated........
Apr 11, 2013, 8:07 AM
Post #10 of 11 (7466 views)
Registered: May 29, 2011
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Re: [limestone_cowboy] Route Setting: Ethos, Aesthetics and Mechanics by Sean Milligan
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"...whether you are describing a long boulder problem or a lead route..."
Yeah, we're talking bouldering. My walls are only 16-1/2ft tall... haha, there's no leading here!
I definitely know how touchy grading can be. And I can see what Acroneau is saying. So, to be a little more precise: we are bouldering, the route is really only about 12 feet long, sit start on the vert wall then on the roof. But it isn't just an angle, it's a full-on ceiling. I guess you could say "180 degrees."
I'll see if I can get some pics...
Thanks for the feedback.
Apr 20, 2013, 8:38 PM
Post #11 of 11 (7210 views)
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Re: [Bastonydaga] Route Setting: Ethos, Aesthetics and Mechanics by Sean Milligan
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A lot of it depends on how it is set. I've set a 5.8 on a roof before and everyone said it couldn't be 5.8 until they climbed it. it is possible to set easier routes on horizontal walls but it is difficult. I tell people to think of it like being on the monkey bars and putting your feet up. But, then you have to make it like being on the monkey bars and putting your feet up.
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text:
Campaigners are holding nationwide protests - including one in Chesterfield - to highlight an alleged failure of fit-for-work tests for sick and elderly benefit claimants by the Government appointed Atos Healthcare.
The protests are expected at 144 locations used by Atos to carry out Work Capability Assessments under a contract written by the Department for Work and Pensions.
A protest was planned outside Beetwell House, on Beetwell Street, Chesterfield, from 8am, today, Wednesday, February 19, but at 8.30am there was no one in attendance yet despite a police presence.
Protestors claim that the DWP has statistics showing that between January 2011 and November 2011 10,600 claimants died within six weeks of being declared fit for work by Atos and that Atos declares people fit for work when they are not able.
Those involved in demonstrations are demanding an apology from Work and Pensions Secretary Iain Duncan Smith to the families of benefit claimants who took their own lives after decisions made by Atos.
Labour MP Hilary Benn said: "As the Labour opposition we have called Atos a disgrace and said they should be sacked. The system needs to change."

subset: commoncrawl


text: Job Discussion Forums :: View topic - How about TATA consultance Service? Get TEFL Certified & Start Your Adventure Today! Job Discussion Forums"The Internet's Meeting Place for ESL/EFL Students and Teachers from Around the World!" FAQ Search Memberlist Usergroups Register Profile Log in to check your private messages Log in How about TATA consultance Service? Job Discussion Forums Forum Index -> General North America Forum View previous topic :: View next topic Author Message cougarJoined: 19 May 2003Posts: 4 Posted: Thu May 22, 2003 12:49 am Post subject: How about TATA consultance Service? Hello, everyone!! Does anyone know something about TCS(tata consultance service), India's largest software company? Is it a good company to work for? How does it treat its employees? Does it care about the development of the employees? Thanks Back to top Display posts from previous: All Posts1 Day7 Days2 Weeks1 Month3 Months6 Months1 Year Oldest FirstNewest First Job Discussion Forums Forum Index -> General North America Forum All times are GMT Page 1 of 1 Jump to: Select a forum Where to Begin----------------General DiscussionNewbie ForumCurrent Events ForumTechnology ForumOnline Teaching Forum Africa Forums----------------General Africa Forum Asia Forums----------------CambodiaChina (Job-related Posts Only)China (Off-Topic)Hong KongIndiaIndonesiaJapanMalaysiaPhilippinesSingaporeTaiwanThailandGeneral Asia ForumVietnam Caribbean Forums----------------General Caribbean Forum Europe Forums----------------Czech RepublicFranceGermanyGreeceItalyMacedonia and the BalkansPolandRomaniaRussia & C.I.S.SpainTurkeyUkraineUnited KingdomGeneral Europe Forum Latin America Forums----------------ArgentinaBrazilChileColombiaCosta RicaMexicoMexico (off-topic)PeruGeneral Latin America Forum The Middle East Forums----------------BahrainEgyptIsraelKuwaitOmanQatarSaudi ArabiaUnited Arab EmiratesGeneral Middle East Forum North America Forums----------------General North America Forum Oceania----------------Australia/New Zealand You cannot post new topics in this forumYou cannot reply to topics in this forumYou cannot edit your posts in this forumYou cannot delete your posts in this forumYou cannot vote in polls in this forum This page is maintained by the one and only Dave Sperling. Contact Dave's ESL Cafe Copyright © 2018 Dave Sperling. All Rights Reserved. Powered by phpBB © 2001, 2002 phpBB Group Teaching Jobs in China


text:
Unemployment Insurance Performance Management
UI Performs Management System Overview
"UI Performs" is the unemployment insurance program's performance management system. The goal of UI Performs is cooperative management, planning and oversight leading to increasingly effective, consistent, efficient service to workers and employers.
UI operations are comprised of benefit eligibility determinations, payments or denials, an accessible appeals system, employer wage reporting and tax collection, and trust fund management. The UI Performs system of oversight includes two performance tracking categories. The first category is Core Measures, which encompasses oversight on key performance areas representative of the health of the entire unemployment insurance system. The Core Measures monitor key activities which have uniform national Acceptable Levels of Performance (ALPs). In the second category, the federal partner also maintains Management Information data to facilitate analysis of performance and to assist in planning corrective activities when necessary. Management Information tracks state performance on subsets of Core Measures and on ancillary activities such as interstate and federal programs.
Performance deficiencies are addressed through the State Quality Service Plans (SQSP) process. The SQSP serves as the performance document and the grant document through which states receive administrative funding.
State Workforce Agency Performance Reports
- Government Performance Results Act (GPRA) Reports
- Overpayment Detection Core Measure Summary Reports
- Ranked Performance on Core Measures
- Overpayment Detection Core Measure
- Facilitation of Reemployment Core Measure
- Other Performance Core Measures
- Overpayment Recovery Core Measures
- Improper Payment Rate Core Measure
- Core Measures and Acceptable levels of Performance
- Benefits Timeliness and Quality
- Tax Performance System (TPS) Computed Measures
- State Workforce Agency Performance Ranking (Excel files)
- UI PERFORMS Measures and Calculations
- UI Core Measures Score Cards


text:
No racing on day one of competition in Key West
22 January 2008
Key West, Florida - The Melges 32 Class was quite anxious to get racing underway today, but the wind refused to cooperate for ACURA Key West 2008 presented by Nautica. With an impressive turnout of twenty-seven Melges 32s (up seven entries from 2007) this fleet is deep in talent and very excited about perhaps being 'the fleet to watch.' It is also one of the fleet's most celebrated regattas — the 2008 Melges 32 Midwinter Championship!
The day began with a short postponement, then at 11:30 a.m. a signal was made to leave the docks and head for the race course. Competitors hopped aboard as did the press and photographers only to encounter fierce racing conditions on arrival to the Division 1 circle. It wasn't long after everyone arrived for the start the race committee cancelled all Melges 32 racing for the day. The winds were 25+ gusting much, much higher — well into the thirties with 8-10 ft seas, big chop and swells, overcast skies and patches of rain.
Racing will continue on Tuesday with once again what appears to potentially be as treacherous a forecast. Winds are still expected to be on the up-and-up and more rain than today.
ACURA Key West is known for its world-class race committee work, optimum conditions and top-knotch rivalry. Each year, Premiere Racing features a very diversified International Team Competition. Teams of three — a Melges 32, Melges 24 and Farr 40 from various country origins are grouped — Canada, France, Germany, Great Britain (2), Italy, Scandinavia, Switzerland, USA (3 — East Coast, Great Lakes and West Coast). Among the Melges 32s selected are Canadian John Sherlock on 'Arkle'; Marty Kullman and Mike Carroll on 'New Wave' from Tampa, Florida; Michael Illbruck on 'Pinta' from Germany; Peter Rogers on 'Highlife' and Joe Woods on 'Red' from the UK; Armando Giulietti on 'Hiroshi' and Claudio Recchi on "Let's Roll' from Italy; Stephen Pugh on 'Taboo' from Sausalito, California; and Jim Swartz on 'Q' from Edgartown, Massachussetts, Jeff Ecklund on 'STAR' from ft. Lauderdale, Florida and Philippe Kahn on 'Pegasus 32'. Stay tuned to www.premiere-racing.com for full information and results on International Team Competition.
Visit the official event website of ACURA Key West 2008. (www.premiere-racing.com)
Kattack Performance Applications (www.kattack.com) has partnered with the International Melges 32 Class Association for ACURA Key West 2008.
For more information about the Melges 32 in Key West, please contact:
Joy Dunigan
International Melges 32 Class Press Officer
+1 (912) 398 5776.


text:
Planning to repeat this movie again. :)
This movie was just plain fun all the way through. Watch for a couple lighthearted cameos along the way!
The idiot who said that they r preferring this movie over the new marvel movie, FYI, this is the new marvel movie.
Oops rated this movie as poor meant that for justice league . Thor was awesome!
has it's moments.
Funny movie.
Meh !! Had some fall out of your seat funny moments but they were few and far between. Tried too hard to be a comedy. Hemsworth and Hiddleston were good... very good - as was Idris Elba, but it falls from there. Hulk was totally out of character and I have a hard time envisioning him being content and at leisure. Korg might be the most annoying character - ever - in anything. No wait - Jeff Goldbloom was worse... Even Nicolas Cage would have been a better choice. (Think about that for a second) Even Cate Blanchet came across as a hack. I tried very hard to turn off my brain and just enjoy the ride... sorry kids - couldn't do it. This is a ride you shouldn't have to pay $12 to get in and $20 for popcorn
This is what happens when you're not trying to do the Justice League, a good movie erupts.
The movie was amazing and funny. I don't think is rate R. Is like a PG13.
Thor looked so innocent with Hulk.
I love how his adopted brother got again a punishing from Thor.
Doctor Strange was in the movie.
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Missoula, Mont. --- The Tennessee State University women's basketball team shook off a sluggish start and battled from behind to defeat the University of Idaho, 69-64, in Dahlberg Arena at the 32 annual Lady Griz Classic Friday night.
TSU (3-3) trailed by as many as 14 points in the first half before outscoring Idaho, 43-34, in the second stanza. The Lady Tigers forced the WAC opponent into 14 turnovers and held them to 26.9 percent from three-point range, a team that usually shoots over 40 percent from beyond the arc.
Simone Hopes led the Lady Tigers and recorded her second career double-double with 16 points and 11 rebounds. Kesi Hess also registered a double-double, the first of her career, with 15 points and 12 rebounds. Jasmin Shuler added 14 points and six rebounds.
The start for Tennessee State was sluggish, as Idaho scored nine unanswered points to capture an early, 9-0, lead. TSU had only made 3-of-17 from the field through the first eight minutes while the opponent was shooting 50 percent from the floor.
The Vandals increased their advantage to, 19-5, before back-to-back buckets from Simone Hopes pulled TSU to within 10.
Idaho maintained at least a nine-point lead for most of the first half but the TSU defense picked up and the Lady Tigers used a 7-0 run, during the last three minutes, to cut the deficit down to four.
TSU trailed, 30-26, at halftime.
With about five minutes ticked off the clock in the second frame, TSU closed within two behind a three-pointer by Chelsea Hudson. The Vandals, however, answered with consecutive triples and a break-away lay-up to go back up by double-digits.
The Lady Tigers continued to fight from behind and once again rallied to within two, 53-51, after Tanesha Stenson forced a turnover that allowed Simone Hopes to score on a break-away.
Another Hopes' bucket pulled the Lady Tigers even, 53-53 with 6:39 remaining. On the next play, Jasmin Shuler capped a 19-7 run that put TSU on top, 55-53.
With 2:52 remaining, the Lady Tigers managed to build their advantage up to, 66-60, but the Vandals responded with four straight to pull within two.
Idaho had possession with 31.4 seconds left in the game when TSU forced a turnover and got the ball back. Idaho was forced to foul and put Destiney Gaston on the line.
Gaston made the front-end of a 1-and-1 but missed the second to make the score, 67-64, in favor of TSU with 20.7 seconds remaining.
On the Vandals' next possession they attempted two three-pointers but came up empty on them both.
After being fouled, Kesi Hess stepped up to the line and knocked down two free-throws to ice the game.
The Lady Tigers return to action tomorrow against host Montana at 7 p.m. MT to conclude the Lady Griz Classic. The contest can be watched live on the Big Sky Network.


text:
BaconSync is a really neat feature coming to the Windows Phone app Baconit . The feature is still in beta form and should be released to the masses shortly. For those not familiar with Baconit, it is a Reddit.com app for your phone which we have been impressed with and BaconSync looks to make it even more impressive.
BaconSync is a in-browser extension for Baconit that synchronizes read links across multiple phones and browser. It is currently only compatible with Chrome browsers. The extension not only lets you review what you've read from your Windows Phone on your PC but you can send web pages from your PC to your Windows Phone. In these situations you'll receive a toast notification on your Windows Phone that will send you straight to the web page.
BaconSync is an handy extension that will extend the capabilities of Baconit rather nicely. The BaconSync extension should be ready shortly and in the meantime, if you haven't tried Baconit, you can find the free version here at the Windows Phone Marketplace. There is also a donation version that you can find here for $1.99 to help support the developers efforts.


text:
Miley Cyrus is a Shining Winner at World Music Awards 2014
Miley Cyrus keeps it colorful in a strapless gown while performing at the 2014 World Music Awards held at Sporting Monte-Carlo on Tuesday (May 27) in Monte-Carlo, Monaco.
Later in the night, the 21-year-old entertainer was eye-catching in a shimmering dress while accepting an award at the ceremony, where she had 14 nominations.
PHOTOS: Check out the latest pics of Miley Cyrus
In case you missed it, Miley recently got a restraining order against an Arizona man, who was trying to meet her.
FYI: Miley is wearing a Kaufman Franco gown, Versace shoes, Lorraine Shwartz jewels while accepting her award. She is wearing a Giambattista Valli gown for the performance.
10+ pictures inside of Miley Cyrus performing at World Music Awards…
Posted to: Miley Cyrus


text:
9/11 Ten Years LaterWhen State Crimes against Democracy SucceedDavid Ray Griffin
published 2011 6" x 9" • 320 pagesISBN 9781566568685 • paperback • $20.00 •
"In this, his tenth book on 9/11 and its consequences, David Ray Griffin continues to report the facts and marshal the evidence that the mainstream media continue to ignore. Having previously demolished the official 9/11 story, Griffin now explains how the government got away with its crime against democracy."Paul Craig Roberts, formerly assistant secretary of the treasury and associate editor of the "Wall Street Journal", has most recently written "How the Economy Was Lost"More Reviews »
On the tenth anniversary of the Septemer 11, 2001 terrorist attacks, David Ray Griffin reviews the troubling questions that remain unanswered
9/11 Ten Years Later is David Ray Griffin's tenth book about the tragic events of September 11, 2001. Asking in the first chapter whether 9/11 justified the war in Afghanistan, he explains why it did not.
In the following three chapters, devoted to the destruction of the World Trade Center, Griffin asks why otherwise rational journalists have endorsed miracles (understood as events that contradict laws of science). Also, introducing the book's theme, Griffin points out that 9/11 has been categorized by some social scientists as a state crime against democracy.
Turning next to debates within the 9/11 Truth Movement, Griffin reinforces his claim that the reported phone calls from the airliners were faked, and argues that the intensely debated issue about the Pentagon—whether it was struck by a Boeing 757—is quite unimportant.
Finally, Griffin suggests that the basic faith of Americans is not Christianity but "nationalist faith"—which most fundamentally prevents Americans from examining evidence that 9/11 was orchestrated by U.S. leaders—and argues that the success thus far of the 9/11 state crime against democracy need not be permanent.
David Ray Griffin is professor of philosophy of religion and theology, emeritus, at Claremont School of Theology and Claremont Graduate University in Claremont, California, where he remains a co-director of the Center for Process Studies. His previous 9/11 books include Cognitive Infiltration (2010), The Mysterious Collapse of World Trade Center 7 (2009), 9/11 Contradictions (2008), and The New Pearl Harbor Revisited (2008), which was a Publishers Weekly's "Pick of the Week." In 2009, the New Statesman named Griffin one of "The 50 People Who Matter Today."
Prefer to read this as an e-book? Get it now, from Google ebookstore!
Olive Branch Press
Media Reviews"Our civilization cannot survive if we do not confront the unanswered questions about 9/11. David Ray Griffin does that with the same clarity and meticulous documentation that characterized his preceding books. Frightening as the enormity of the truth about 9/11 may be, we should also bear in mind that it is a window of opportunity for addressing a whole range of problems threatening the lives of our children and grandchildren. I am sure those who follow will recognize David Ray Griffin's body of work as one of the most important contributions of the last decade."Niels Harrit, Associate Professor Emeritus, Nano-science Center, Department of Chemistry, University of Copenhagen
"Anyone who has actually studied Griffin's writings on 9/11 knows that the evidence against the truth of the official account is overwhelming. It is not surprising that the mainstream response has been to ridicule and ignore rather than to engage in reasoned discussion. What is disappointing is that leading liberals and responsible journalists have joined in by affirming ideas that contradict basic science and condescendingly rejecting solid research without examining it. In this book, Griffin describes the behavior of these journalists and attempts, in a remarkably charitable spirit, to understand it."John B. Cobb, Jr., author of "The Earthist Challenge to Economism" and (with Herman Daly) "For the Common Good"
"Why yet another book on 9/11? Because, as David Ray Griffin points out clearly and persuasively, 9/11 continues to be not only the greatest crime in American history, but also the most strenuously covered up, and certainly the crime with the greatest political consequences. He shows how over a decade the events of 9/11 and the reports on them have been used to attack the American democratic system. Above all, he documents the success of this attackby the refusal of the media, the academy, and religious institutions to openly discuss these matters, and by the numbers of critics who at one extreme have made fools of themselves in echoing the Orwellian official version, and at the other extreme have been either fired or silenced after their dissent from it."Peter Dale Scott, poet, former Canadian diplomat, professor at the University of California (Berkeley), and author of "American War Machine"
Submit a Review »
9/11 Commission Report: Omissions and Distortions, The
Debunking 9/11 Debunking
9/11 and American Empire (Volume II)
Herakles Gone Mad
New Pearl Harbor Revisited, The
9/11 Contradictions
Mysterious Collapse of World Trade Center 7, The
Cognitive Infiltration
Hijacking Catastrophe
Surviving Iraq
Osama bin Laden
9/11 and American Empire (Volume I)
New Pearl Harbor, The
The Great Terror War


text: Moonlight Bay song This article does not cite any references or sources. Please help improve this article by adding citations to reliable sources. Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. (December 2009) "Moonlight Bay" Cover, sheet music, 1912 Music by Percy Wenrich Lyrics by Edward Madden Published 1912 Language English "Moonlight Bay" is a popular song. It is commonly referred to as On Moonlight Bay. The music was written by Percy Wenrich, the lyrics by Edward Madden, and was published in 1912. It was often sung in a Barbershop Quartet style, such as by Billy Murray and the American Quartet: The song was one of a number of early-20th-century songs which were used as titles of musical films made by Doris Day in the late 1940s and early 1950s. See On Moonlight Bay. Please note the text from Wikipedia is imported without editing or authentication. Moonlight Bay (Anthology 1)


text:
Sharks' rivals find there's no slowing Marleauby Eric Gilmore
SAN JOSE, Calif. -- Growing up in the small town of Aneroid, Saskatchewan, Patrick Marleau always was the fastest kid on the ice.
Now that he's four months shy of his 34th birthday and in his 15th NHL season with the San Jose Sharks, not much has changed for Marleau.
Marleau used his sprinter's speed to score the game-winning goal in overtime when the Sharks completed a sweep of the Vancouver Canucks in their Western Conference Quarterfinal series.
"I kind of stayed onside, but I still had gained that speed in the neutral zone and then just kind of followed the play in, and then I saw [Thornton] shoot and was going to the net at the same time," Marleau said. "It was just laying there."
That would be the puck, and he knocked the rebound home for a power-play goal at 13:18, before Canucks goaltender Cory Schneider could recover after making the initial save.
"He [Marleau] saw it, and I saw it probably at the same time," Sharks center Logan Couture said of the puck. "He got there about two steps ahead of me. That shows how slow I am compared to how fast he is.
"I wish I could skate like him. He's just so explosive. He'll outskate a lot of [defensemen], outside speed. Wins a lot of puck races."
Marleau used his explosive speed and quickness to score a goal in every game against Vancouver, helping lead San Jose to a conference semifinal series against the Los Angeles Kings.
Marleau scored the game-tying goal with 56 seconds left in regulation in Game 2, and the Sharks went on to win 3-2 in overtime. Roberto Luongo had rejected Marleau's shot from the slot, but the puck trickled behind him, and Marleau jetted to the net and scored before Luongo could cover it.
Most 30-something athletes start losing a step here or there; if Marleau has, no one seems to have noticed.
"It's crazy how you can be 33 and you can still be the fastest guy on the ice whenever he wants," Sharks forward TJ Galiardi said. "It kind of makes you feel bad about yourself sometimes. I think I'm a decent skater and I'm flying, and then all of a sudden I look beside me and he's not even trying and he's going faster than me. I'm like, 'How the heck is this [happening]? Crazy.' And he can take over a game. That's the biggest thing about Patty. He's been doing this all playoffs for us."
What's Marleau's secret?
"I just try to do what it takes to stay in shape and stay strong," Marleau said. "In the offseason and during the season, working with [strength and conditioning coordinator Mike] Potenza, and just doing some different things to keep the leg strength up. It helps the speed on the ice."
The fact that Marleau has logged so much NHL experience also helps him get the jump on his younger opponents.
"It's all game situations where you see speed," Marleau said. "I think if you line guys up on the blue line or red line and have a race, there's like tenths of a second difference between people, but during a game it's read and reaction, knowing when to jump in the holes, that makes people look fast."
Marleau now has 56 career postseason goals, a franchise record and second among active players in the NHL, behind the Boston Bruins' Jaromir Jagr.
Marleau has a history of going on hot streaks -- in the regular season and playoffs -- and he never was hotter than during the Sharks' first five regular-season games. He scored two goals in each of the first four games and one goal in the fifth. He had three game-winners and four assists during that streak.
Heading into the playoffs, however, Marleau had just one goal in his final 16 regular-season games. But he has thrived in the playoffs while skating on a line with Couture and, since an injury to Martin Havlat early in Game 1 against Vancouver, the speedy and aggressive Raffi Torres.
In past playoffs with the Sharks, the pressure squarely was on Marleau to carry most of the goal-scoring load. He often has taken the brunt of criticism for the Sharks' postseason failures and for what his critics consider to be a lack of passion on the ice.
"He's a really misunderstood athlete," Sharks coach Todd McLellan said. "The passion in him is exceptional. He just doesn't [outwardly] show it all the time. We see it."
This year Marleau is sharing the postseason scoring load with a long list of teammates, including Couture, Joe Pavelski, Brent Burns and Torres. The question now is whether that balanced scoring can help Marleau -- and the Sharks -- win the Stanley Cup for the first time.
"It would mean everything," Marleau said. "Since you were a little kid and you knew what it's all about, you want to win it. You play with your friends, you're playing for it all the time, imaginary Stanley Cup. Just loving the game.
"I think it would be great to be able to share it with my family and my friends. We're playing for the Stanley Cup all the time in the basement with my boys. That would be something, to be able to have it and maybe have a little game in the basement for it."
Marleau has just one season left on his contract with the Sharks. He'll be nearly 35 when his deal is set to expire, but Marleau said he's not even thinking about retirement.
"I think I still got a lot of hockey ahead of me," Marleau said.
So far Marleau has played his entire NHL career with the Sharks, but he said he doesn't know if he'll finish his career with San Jose.
"You can never be sure," Marleau said. "We'll see. I don't know. It would be nice. Obviously, it would be nice to win a Cup here and finish my career here."


text:
Here comes the cool weather again
Steel thyself for one more morning of dog's breath humidity.
That's how Bill Read, a top Houston forecaster and former director of the National Hurricane Center, describes Houston's muggiest mornings when a deep surge of moisture moves into the area.
And this morning's July-like low temperatures in the mid-70s will certainly fit that description. But they won't last, say forecasters with the National Weather Service.
Another strong cold front is slated to blow through the city shortly after noon, dropping temperatures by 20 to 30 degrees in its wake.
A line of showers and thunderstorms - feeding on the moisture - will likely move into the area ahead of the front. There is also a slight chance of severe weather, including damaging winds and small hail, but the main threat of such storms likely will be well to the northeast of the metro area.
Rain accumulations might reach one-half inch for most of the Houston area.
Gusty winds and lower temperatures will prevail behind the front, and Thursday and Friday nights could see lows in the 40s.
In fact, Saturday morning could set a low temperature record for Houston. Forecasters say it could easily fall to 41 or 42 degrees early Saturday, breaking the mark of 44 degrees for April 20.
After the cool start to the day, the weekend looks really pleasant, with both days seeing highs in the 70s and plenty of sun.


text:
Sunday, 24 February 2008
Rich butter cake
This cake is all about butter and vanilla. A marriage made in heaven!
A soft, close textured sponge not dissimilar to a Madeira cake but more vanilla-y. Perfect with a cup of tea (or coffee if you absolutely must). If you want to add another texture to the cake you can scatter crushed sugar cubes on the top of the cake before baking but I haven't done this – I don't think it needs it.
Here you can see the rich, buttery texture:
No other cake ingredient seems to waft such a delicious aroma around the home whilst cooking quite like vanilla. To me it is the culinary equivalent of the Sirens calling sailors to the rocks. Except no one dies.
I think this shot shows the beautiful "come and get me" texture of the cake:
250g unsalted butter, at room temperature
200g caster sugar
3 eggs, beaten
3 tablespoons semi skimmed milk
3-4 teaspoons vanilla extract
250g self raising flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
How to make:
- Preheat the oven to 180°C/fan oven 160°C/350°F/Gas mark 4.
- Line a 900g loaf tin.
- Cream the butter and sugar together until they are pale and fluffy. Don't skimp on this stage – give the mixture a good beating for 5 minutes or so.
- Gradually beat in the eggs, milk and vanilla. Don't worry if it curdles a little, as soon as you add the flour it will sort itself out.
- Fold in the flour and baking powder until well mixed in.
- Spoon into the tin and level.
- Bake in the over for 50-55 minutes or until a skewer comes out clean. Mine took an hour.
- Allow to cool in the tin for 10 minutes before turning out onto a wire rack and allowing to cool completely
- Bask in glory at the wonderful thing you have made.
- Eat.
8 comments:
- glamah16 said...
I think this cake needs no addtions. However I never thought of your suggestion of adding cracked sugar cubes on top. This is perfect with that cup of tea or coffee.And you can freeze any for a trifle or something. Very versitle.
- 24 February 2008 at 16:51
- Deborah said...
Some might call it simple, but I think that butter cakes are so decadent!!
- 25 February 2008 at 22:10
- Ling's Passion said...
Butter cake is so authentic and by far the best *am being bias* 'coz this is the first cake I learnt to bake in school.
- 26 February 2008 at 09:38
- Rosie said...
This is sheer deliciousness!! It is nice to have a cake, which speaks for itself and this one sure ticks all my boxes!!
Rosie x
- 26 February 2008 at 19:07
- Priscilla said...
That sounds and looks absolutely perfect for my breakfast! I am going to try this!
- 27 February 2008 at 14:23
- The Caked Crusader said...
Now there's a concept I like! Breakfast cake!
What a great idea! Why did no-one tell me about this sooner?
Thanks Priscilla
- 27 February 2008 at 14:44
Made the rich butter cake and followed the recipe to a T. In the oven it was rising beautifully but then sank about 15 minutes before it was due out. I didn't open the oven door. What could have caused the cake to sink? Despite its depressed state the cake still tasted delicious!
- 2 December 2008 at 13:06
- The Caked Crusader said...
Hi Anonymous
Sorry to hear that - I can only think that there may have been a drop in temperature in your oven? I've never heard of a cake sinking in the oven, only when cooling.
Does anyone else have any ideas?
The Caked Crusader
- 3 December 2008 at 20:05


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Artist: Kit Flannery
Biography: Flannery specializes in man-made fabric collage. Her preferred subject matter is wildlife. She moved from Park City to Logan in 1970 and enrolled at USU to study ceramics and fiber art. Bringing her own techniques to her designs, she made paper patterns then appliqued fabric to fabric background using a sewing machine. While living in Kenya Africa she was inspired to use bright bold fabrics in her designs. Lives in Hyde Park, UT.
Notes: Commissioned for installation in Library for 1986 library dedication. Purchased with funds donated by citizens.
Description: Fabric collage, 112x32, tryptic
Location: Library


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Starbucks expands its ice cream-meets-espresso menu to more locations
Starbucks expands its ice cream-meets-espresso menu to more locations
Think ice cream isn't a breakfast food? Maybe try it with your morning coffee.
Starbucks is bringing its Affogatos to more than 100 stores across the U.S., according to Business Insider. Translated from Italian as "drowning," the treats are made by pouring hot espresso over cold ice cream.
The company introduced Affogatos last summer at its Seattle Reserve Roastery, where it became a top seller. The menu expanded to include other ice cream-inspired creations such as a Reserve Cold Brew Float and a Malted Milkshake.
The Roastery's Affogatos menu will be offered at 10 upscale Reserve locations in Los Angeles, Boston and Washington D.C. this week. A less expensive menu will come to 100 traditional locations in Orange County, Calif.


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Transferring / Re: Class rank: Ratio --> %« on: June 06, 2011, 12:08:24 PM »
Thanks for the reply. That was always my thought too. Just figured I would check and see if there was some kind of "industry standard" I was unaware of, because when I tried to google it a couple law schools' career websites came up that said to round down from .44 and lower. Anyway I guess it doesn't matter for transferring, because the admissions offices will just look at the raw rank and make their own calculation anyway.


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Are you a full qualified Science Teacher?
Teaching personnel are looking for someone to fill a position for a full time Science Teacher vacancy in the Clacton-on-Sea area. For this role you will be teaching KS3 and KS4 to Secondary School students.
The school are looking for someone who can continue encourage their pupils to achieve their maximum potential, develop individual responsibility and respect for others.
The successful candidate will be able to deliver engaging lessons and motive young learners to increase attainment levels. It is important that you have great classroom management skills as you will be responsible for the class.
This is an excellent chance to join Teaching Personnel's team of teaching staff and deliver a professional and quality learning experience to young minds.
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All applicants will require the appropriate qualification and training for this role. For teacher roles, we require a formally recognised teaching qualification. For Support staff our minimum requirement is GCSE English & Maths (A-C) or equivalent.
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Teaching Personnel is committed to safeguarding and promoting the welfare of children. All candidates must undertake or have undertaken a valid enhanced Disclosure and Barring Service (DBS) check. Full assistance provided.
All applicants will require the appropriate qualifications and training for this role. Please see teachingpersonnel.com/faqs for details.
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In 2004, with President George W. Bush dead set against stem cell research, California just went ahead and did it. Voters made stem cell research a state constitutional right, and endorsed $3 billion in bond sales for 10 years to cement the deal. CIRM, the California Institute for Regenerative Medicine created under Proposition 71, has become a world center for stem cell research, and its president is Australian Alan Trounson, a pioneer in in vitro fertilization. As Proposition 71 approaches its 10-year anniversary, Trounson offers a prognosis.
It's been almost 10 years since California funded what may be the world's biggest stem cell research program. What are you up to?
We are working hard to get six or seven projects to clinical trials. We have more than 70 [total] programs moving [toward] clinical trials. It's a lot of work to chaperon.
I'll give you three examples: one, linking genetics, or genomics work, to stem cells, integrating the two. We're going to create a center in California that will bring a lot of [genetics] studies and clinical work to a new level.
Secondly, we've set up a structure for banking the 3,000 cell lines from "induced pluripotent stem cells" that we turn into the equivalent of embryonic stem cells. We call them IPS cells. You take a skin cell or blood cell and convert it to the equivalent of an embryonic stem cell.
We've also taken samples from patients with complex diseases, and we're banking these so scientists can "interrogate" these diseases — like heart disease, Alzheimer's, blindness. We are targeting a range of conditions — autism, cerebral palsy — for which we have scant understanding of causes and major drivers. This is material for long-term research studies.
What we're doing is meaningful. Somebody with cancer may have a better treatment. Parkinson's patients might be in a clinical trial around 2016, 2017.
Are Californians getting enough bang for their buck?
I think we're way ahead of what people predicted. Nevertheless, it takes a lot of time to do this. I think we're hurrying carefully.
What else?
I'm intending to set up a network of stem cell clinics in California in the next couple of years, to make treatments available as clinical trials or as registered treatments for patients. I'm going to ask the [CIRM] board for about $70 million to get that set up. It will make California a go-to place for stem cell therapies. I want to make sure it's part of our medical fabric.
An Oregon scientist reports that he has cloned human stem cell lines. Is Oregon doing something different from California?
The one thing that's different is that we can't compensate women adequately for donating eggs [as a source for creating a particular type of stem cell]. We can pay for the cost of drugs but not for the time and inconvenience. So that really does limit the number of women who would like to donate eggs to research, and that's a handicap. I think it would be very useful to develop those cell lines.
The words "cloning" and "human" together set off alarm bells for some people.
[Under Proposition 71] we can't do any reproductive cloning. We can't do it and we shouldn't do it — none of us wants to do that — but we would like to make those cell lines.
Is stem cell research highly competitive now, as it was in the 1980s, when you were beginning your work?
I don't think it's very competitive at all. There's a little bit of competition between California and Harvard, but that will always be the case, I suspect. What's important with [California's] $3 billion is that it's taken away a lot of the silliness of the competition — that you hold your data and you don't show anyone and you wait until you [get it published] in a journal. In Australia, there's very few funds for this kind of work and so it's extremely competitive — you don't know what others are doing even in the same laboratory. That's not the case in California. People are collaborating, and that's why we're moving so fast because we work together. Scientists like to reach out to other scientists.
Could embryonic stem cells become unnecessary because other cells can be just as adaptable?
Maybe longer term. IPS cells have a very strong memory of what they were, whether they were a blood cell or a skin cell. Embryonic stem cells don't. We have to find out whether IPS cells can [really adapt] or whether they'll be poor relatives of the embryonic stem cell. Embryonic stem cells are being used for therapy, but IPS cells are being taken from patients with different diseases to interrogate those diseases. They're not therapeutic at this time.
What surprises have you encountered?
I'm surprised all the time. That you can actually create a cure for HIV/AIDS with stem cells — that's in clinical trials [in Denmark] now. That we found how to jump a skin cell to a pancreatic cell or a cardiac muscle cell. Every month comes a new surprise, tumbling toward totally different medicine that we'll have in 30 or 40 years' time.
This work is still controversial. Your team in Australia created the technique that has allowed 5 million in vitro fertilization babies to be born worldwide. But you were still called a "baby murderer." Astrophysicists don't get that kind of reaction.
In the surveys I've seen across the U.S., you get 70% or 80% of people very much in favor [of stem cell and IVF work]. If we get cures or treatments for some of these debilitating diseases, which is going to happen over the next four or five years, people will embrace what's necessary to help a Parkinson's patient or someone who's got Type 1 diabetes. I'm not afraid of what some small sector feels outrage about. It's their right, but it's not the majority feeling.
Have you faced such personal criticism here?
Not really. Last year I was invited to the Vatican to present a paper, but when I sent in a summary of what I was going to say, they decided not to have it. They sent a check to the treasurer of California and the treasurer rang us up and said, "What the heck is this check from the Vatican for?" It was for the inconvenience!
Will California own patents from the research?
I expect there's a lot of intellectual property with some of these [treatments] that will be really big returns for California. But it'll take some time; the so-called blockbuster treatments will take 10 years or more. Gov. [Arnold] Schwarzenegger pointed a finger at me and said, "We're going to give you the opportunity to deliver this, but understand it's a 25-year gig." The feds put $3.8 billion into the human genome project and the return from that, according to a study, is about $1,400 for every dollar.
The big story about CIRM last year was its conflict-of-interest protocols. What's being done?
The [national] Institute of Medicine gave CIRM management strong positives. They had issues on conflict of interest. They felt if the [schools represented by] deans of medicine on the board were the recipient of CIRM [grants], they were potentially in a conflict of interest. The board decided to take away the [grant-making] vote for those [members, at least temporarily]. They also had a view that if the patient advocates [on the board] were strongly advocating for [research for] a disease, that was another kind of conflict. They [changed] some patient advocate roles in some grant selection process. I didn't see this as a problematic issue, but from the point of view of the Institute of Medicine, it didn't look right, and I can understand that. Much has been done to correct that.
You and your wife got married so that she could come here and work.
We didn't really feel it was necessary; we'd been together 20 years and have two lovely boys, but she couldn't come to America without being married to me. She's a scientist — not a stem cell scientist — but [once she got here] she couldn't work at universities in California because of [potential CIRM] conflicts of interest. So she's back in Australia, doing her work and loving it, but it's not optimum. But this is an important job which I promised to do.
Do you get letters from people with diseases asking for help?
All the time. I try to be supportive and send them to talk to the best people in that area. There would be dozens a week who write to me.
You have a heart condition; will this research one day benefit you?
I've got atrial fibrillation; I don't think it's going to help that. But I have a brother who has HIV/AIDS, and my mum died of lung disease.
What do you hear from your colleagues around the world about what California's doing?
They always say, "You've got the best job in the world. How did California do this?" That's California. California is a can-do place, and when they want something, they stand up and do it. Many of [my colleagues] want to come to California. It's just a wonderful place. You could sail it off the coast of America and it would be the most wonderful country in the world.
Follow Patt Morrison on Twitter @pattmlatimes
This interview was edited and excerpted from a taped transcript. An archive of Morrison's interviews can be found at latimes.com/pattasks.


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Extreme fun: Hitting the slopes at Washington Park
Winter is not over yet. On Thursday, February 24, four inches of the white stuff fell over Charlottesville and much of Central Virginia, closing schools and blanketing the Old Dominion in white. No sooner had that disappeared under 50-degree weekend temps, than another load descended on Monday, February 28.
For some, the frosty precip meant slower traffic, cancellations, and unwelcome return of colder temperatures. However, the showers yielded some of the finest sledding snow to fall all year, which meant that our local green spaces turned into winter playgrounds.
If you've weathered a winter in Charlottesville, you know that Washington Park on Preston Avenue has some of the most exhilarating sledding in the city. Last Thursday, as the snowflakes fell, kids big and small gathered at the park, sleds in tow, to tackle the enormous hill next to the dog park.
That hill is not for the faint of heart, nor for the lazy. After a long climb to the top, the only way down is fast– super fast! Folks content to leave the sledding to the more adventuresome took advantage of the powder's packability to build snowmen and throw snowballs. There was something for everyone!
Zooooooom: Allie Cromwell flies by at lightning speed.
Tricia Hammond and her daughter Marissa attempt the very difficult '360 sled spin'
Cold noses, warm smiles: Christina Lockhart, Mary Emerson, and Sharon Wood spend their day off with Poodgie Lackhart (center).
A long way down: The scene from the top at Washington Park
Snow days rock
Little Ciara Sprouse and her father, DJ, have the honor of building the park's first snowman of the day.
Taking one for the team (see back of sled)


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