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Saturday, November 22, 2008
Fashion & Media Come Together at the IFCSF Mixer
The Innovative Fashion Council brought together members of local fashion media and the design community last Wednesday night at the W Hotel San Francisco for a night of networking, discussion and a fashion show. The mixer was an opportunity for the fashion community to mix and mingle while hitting on a big topic - "Does Eco-Fashion Matter in a Down Economy? Retail and branding strategist Bertrand Pellegrin from Gensler (and author of upcoming book Branding the Man) moderated a panel of fashion insiders which included: Samantha Durbin - Editor, Fabsugar.com; Nerissa Pacio - Associate Editor, Fashion & Beauty, 7x7 Magazine; Dino Ray Ramos - Fashion & Entertainment Contributor for AsianWeek Magazine, 944 and Stylehive.com; Melissa Davis - Founder of Ruby PR and Past Contributing Editor for Lucky magazine; Riley John-Donnell - Founder and Publisher of Surface magazine; and Audrey Mansfield - Style Contributor for The View from the Bay (ABC-7).
Pellegrin opened the panel by saying that while the evening's topic was originally focused on the relevance of eco-fashion, he was interested in hearing whether fashion itself still matters, and are people even thinking about fashion today? He shared with the group some staggering numbers on the industry - retail sales were down 2.8% in October from September and 4.1% from this time last year, quite a substantial decline. Online sales are down at a rate of 5% every month, Neiman Marcus is down 28%, Abercrombie & Fitch is down 20%, and every week we hear of another large chain closing or falling into bankruptcy. So with prices for high fashion not dropping anytime soon and magazines losing more advertising pages and condensing their editorial spreads, how can fashion survive the impending recession? And finally, how to keep the importance of sustainable and eco-fashion alive when shoppers are drastically cutting their budgets to allow only for the basics? The good news is that fashion is indeed still very relevant and more meaningful than ever.
The first question addressed by the panel centered on the changes in consumer buying habits and how shoppers are thinking differently about fashion. In response, Davis pointed out that shoppers are looking for that one key piece to take them through the season - that "look for less." Shoppers are still paying attention, but they're choosier about what they decide to purchase. Ramos brought up the point that "sustainable fashion is essentially an oxymoron, because sustainable is all about longevity and fashion always changes." He went on to discuss the area of "fast fashion" which is essentially how stores like H&M and Zara operate - they see the collections for the next season, copy it, and have it on the racks before the original pieces even hit the stores. John-Donnell made the point that certain capsule collections like Stella McCartney or Comme des Garcons for H&M not only create a buying frenzy among all fashion devotees, they are also likely to last longer in someone's closet because of the unique nature and better quality of the clothes. In regards to the launch of the Comme des Garcons collection earlier this month, the almost entertainment value of shopping must continue to increase to keep shoppers engaged.
Pellegrin addressed that given eco-fashion is still on the fringe and seen as a trend (even with luxury retailers like Barney's promoting eco-design, it's still at a price point higher than what the average consumer can afford) how do we keep championing the idea of sustainable fashion as a movement and not just a short-lived fad? Pacio said that as a fashion editor she always tries to pull in pieces from local designers that are chic and sustainable, yet still mix well with high-fashion looks from mainstream designers. But as the magazine industry gets hit harder each day with loss of ad sales revenue, editors are forced to cut their pages and the amount of looks they can feature. In a similar sense, Durbin for her web site, always looks for the sustainable angle when reporting on mainstream brands like Banana Republic and the small eco-collection they launched earlier this year. The panel agreed that more importantly, people need to be educated about what is available today in sustainable fashion and shown that it has moved past the hippie factor. What is refreshing is that the media is very engaged with eco-fashion today and that price points for these items will come down as awareness increases.
For new designers, Pellegrin stated that many larger retail establishments are not bringing in new talent with the current economic client. So how can a new designer get out there and capture attention? It's all about having an amazing press kit and beautiful photography. For someone like Durbin at Fabsugar, if she receives gorgeous, high-quality photos and excellent copy she can have a new post up the same day. Pacio and Mansfield, who both receive requests each day from designers for editorial coverage, feel that professionalism in the pitch is key. Mansfield also pointed out that on "View from the Bay" an eco-centric show never works for their ratings, so she must incorporate sustainable design as a "by-the-way" portion of a fashion segment. The rise of fashion blogs has also made it easier for new designers to get cheap and fast advertising - an advertisement in Vogue may be out of reach, but a banner ad on a fashion blog is an easy way to drive traffic to a new fashion start-up.
Another interesting point made about the changes in the industry and the place of sustainable fashion is the idea of fashion likening itself to the slow food movement. As we consume less we're more apt to find out more about what is we're buying, where our clothes are coming from, and what the story is behind them. Shoppers are looking for a meaningful experience rather than a quick buy. And so in this type of environment, new designers may be at a greater advantage. According to Mansfield, getting your designs in front of a stylist is key given the impact they have on the media. Pacio stated that in a market like San Francisco she has great relationships and partnerships with local stylists she trusts, but in a market like L.A. it's much more strategic and focused on product placement. John-Donnell pointed out that edgier designers like Rick Owens are coming to the forefront because the public is looking for a unique idea they can wear rather than something straight out of an editorial spread. This approach has already shaped European fashion - in a city like Paris it's always been about wearing what's different or unknown rather than flaunting a logo or big-name label.
Also discussed was how fashion editors are grappling with the task of balancing aspiration with reality. Readers still want to dive into the pages of their favorite magazines and fall into these beautiful and luxurious spreads, but editors need to be conscious of the fact that they must provide real options for real people at the same time. Durbin mentioned that there is a reverse trend going on in fashion consumption where she gets complimented for her vintage $5 T-shirt instead of a trendy, more expensive piece. However, all agreed that if you have a Chanel bag, by all means use it but mix it up with more casual pieces.
Pellegrin concluded with taking some questions from audience members interested in learning more about how to get their creations in front of the editors. Again, it all comes down to the designs, the photography, and professionalism. You might have the best pitch for your ideas but if the designs fall short they won't go any further. Other ideas for new designers that came out of the discussion are to treat your company like a start-up, avoid paying any overhead and consider showcasing your pieces on direct-to-designer sites like Etsy.com.
After a brief break, guests were invited back in to enjoy a special fashion show with IFCSF Members and featured designers including evening-wear appropriate vegan footwear from Kailia Italian Footwear, jet-setting eco-luxe travel bags from JenDarling, and jewelry from Hearts Desire in Oakland. Tho show also featured designer brands including Del Forte Denim and select looks from Sofie Ølgaard, Goorin Brothers and Carrots Boutique in San Francisco. Special thanks to everyone who helped put on the show: Charleston Pierce and Claudia Hutchins for fashion show production, Rowena Hutchinson Ritchie for PR, Show Stylists Velvet Valentine and Leslie Foley, and Advisory board and show stylist Yugala Priti. Finally, thanks to our event sponsors: The W Hotel San Francisco, The Cinta Aveda Institute, The Passport Modeling Agency, Come Hither Cupcakes, Veev Life, Phuket beer, Perkins Coie, VehicleSF, DJ Melvin "j", and Warren Difranco / After5Media.com for Event Photography.
Thanks again to the more than 150 supporters of the Innovative Fashion Council who turned up for this great event – our next networking event will be sometime in January. Until then we have all kinds of great things coming up, including an interview with Vogue's European Editor-at-Large Hamish Bowles.
Posted by Daniela Province at 12:25 AM No comments:
Monday, November 17, 2008
Q & A with Nous Savons
While wandering around the Appel & Frank Eco-Chic Shopping event last month, I came across a designer who I had also spotted at Capsule. I wasn't the only one who took notice. Shoppers were busy peeling off their layers to try on the reconstructed and improved button-down shirts designed by Nous Savons designer and owner Jocelyn Nguyen. The beauty of what she does is reflected in the care she takes in turning around what was once a boring, secretary-style blouse and making it a unique and edgy wearable piece of art. I was intrigued by what motivated and inspired Jocelyn to first, work with these kinds of fabrics, and also to find out how she made the big break to start her own business.
What made you decide to pick these thrift store shirts and reconstruct them?
I've always been a thrift store shopper. I started out collecting vintage while I was in junior high school (who didn't?) I would come across amazing vintage pieces with just one horrible flaw (like a stain or hole), and couldn't resist buying them for the material. Eventually I started anthropomorphizing the clothing and feeling really sorry for the things that I didn't think anyone was buying-- mainly the "boring" stuff such as button-down shirts, blazers, pleated wool pants. So I bought a few shirts with no ideas in mind and just spent some time draping them. I actually have no idea what was going through my head when I initially cut the sleeves off and made the ruffle yoke with them. But this is how I work--just very instinctively.
When did you first start "playing with clothes?"
My mother is an amazing seamstress and made a lot of clothing for my sister and me while we were growing up, but I never exactly had sewing lessons from her. Even when I was a kid I was way more into hand-sewing and draping, or altering existing clothing. But the fact that my mother made clothing so frequently and nonchalantly made it all seem really accessible to me.
How did you end up starting your own business?
Even though I'd been making things all my life, I never thought my craft could be a business that could sustain me. Then early, early one morning, after staying up all night putting together a job application I got an email from Scott and Harris, the guys who put together the Hayes Valley Capsule Festival. It was a last-minute call for designers for their next show. In my totally sleep-deprived state I went ahead and applied for the show even though I wasn't making ANYTHING tangible at the time. So I spent the next month and a half filled with dread and panic, working every minute I had outside of my regular full-time job, making things for the fair. The response was amazing, and I got a lot of leads for boutiques and other shows out of it. I spent the next year or so doing shows and selling to stores while still working full time. Eventually I realized I had to either quit my job and go all out on the business, or I had to quit the business and find something that could be a career. Of course, I chose the business and I have no regrets.
You don't have a formal fashion design background - how do you find the tools to execute your vision?
I studied photography in college, which sometimes comes out in my design process. Reconstructed pieces are a lot like photography in that, to me, they are much more about editing than creating: you choose your materials from existing objects, and then you put them together or take them apart, but you don't work from scratch The end result is so much more than the sum of its parts.
What are your thoughts on sustainable fashion?
Creating sustainable clothing is really important to me. I actually do my own rounds of thrift stores, searching for and hand selecting everything that I reconstruct. It's much more time-consuming than just ordering exactly the amount of whatever material I need, and knowing that the quality and characteristics are going to be the same every time, but that is part of the fun. It makes me feel good to know that I am taking things that people discard and turning them into something extremely desirable. My clothing means more to me, piece by piece, than it would if I was just designing samples that would be reproduced by the thousands. I also love the unpredictable nature of the process, from searching out the materials, reconstructing them (and, though I do virtually the same alteration on all the shirts and vests, each piece really looks different depending on the original structure of the garment), and then eventually finding the right person for each piece.
What do you think about the state of eco-conscious design in San Francisco?
I think there are a lot of different ways to be an eco-conscious designer (whether it be rescue-and-reconstruction, or using green materials, or even running other aspects of your business sustainably) and there are many examples of each kind in San Francisco. We're lucky that being green is something that people are not only constantly thinking about in San Francisco, but actually practicing. I also have to add that there is a disproportionate amount of amazing smaller designers in San Francisco, and it has a lot to do with the support the indie design community gets from the public. It's a nice symbiotic relationship that really benefits everybody.
Finally, how did you come up with the name "Nous Savons?"
It came to me out of nowhere. It's a bit of a joke-- it popped into my head as the snottiest name possible for a clothing line before I even had a clothing line. It's funny to me to see (a) who knows what it means and (b) who understands that it's a joke. Sometimes people take it a lot more seriously than I do.
You can find Nous Savons at the new Etsy shop (clothes to come soon), and in San Francisco at Needles & Pens, The Mission Statement, Still Life, Arkay Workshop, and soon at Bell Jar.
Posted by Daniela Province at 8:59 PM 14 comments:
Sunday, November 16, 2008
Coming Up: Week of November 17th
This is the big week for the next Innovative Fashion Council Mixer! Please stop by the W Hotel on Wednesday, the 19th between 6:30-9:30pm for cocktails and networking with the San Francisco design community. Be sure to arrive early as we'll have a panel of media experts talking about the state of sustainable fashion in today's economy, plus fashion shows featuring local designers. For more information and to purchase a ticket, click here.
Fashion Group International host their Annual Scholarship Fundraiser to benefit young design students on Thursday, the 20th from 5:30-8pm at The Academy of Art University Art Gallery. There will be a silent auction and a video presentation of the Spring 2009 Ready-to-Wear collections. For more information, click here.
Fashion Group International host their Annual Scholarship Fundraiser to benefit young design students on Thursday, the 20th from 5:30-8pm at The Academy of Art University Art Gallery. There will be a silent auction and a video presentation of the Spring 2009 Ready-to-Wear collections. For more information, click here.
Posted by Daniela Province at 5:23 PM No comments:
An Evening of Yves Saint Laurent with ArtPoint
ArtPoint, the young professionals arts organization of the Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco celebrated the new YSL exhibit at the de Young Museum on Thursday night with a sparkling cocktail party and private viewing of the exhibition. Almost 1,000 attendees showed off their best YSL-inspired fashions across the main floor and exhibit area, as well as the private lounge on the top floor Observation Deck. For this unseasonably warm and clear night in San Francisco, the view made it extremely hard for me to tear myself away from the party. But the drama of YSL below could wait no longer.
First, I must confess that when I think of YSL I always see the designer with his trademark glasses first - and after that, visions of black with Le Smoking and form-fitting vixen dresses to vamp up the night. Gliding across the top of the park in this magnificent building with the black of night reflecting against the champagne glasses and jewels of party dresses, I had to think of YSL and his feelings on the color black: "But for me, Black is a refuge because it expresses what I want. With it, everything becomes simpler, more linear, more dramatic." The freedom to use black and not color as an expression for what you're wearing is so much bolder and has left such an imprint on the wardrobes of women. We always turn to basic black because it's the easiest way to convey professionalism, neatness and elegance at the same time. But do we think of it in relation to our environment and the places we go? YSL loved this idea, but when creating against the grey backdrop of Paris it makes sense that he consistently brought pops of color into his collections.
The retrospective at the de Young covers an enormous span of YSL's life and influences, including the very first pieces for Dior, still in the older style of trapeze dresses and swingy skirts. His take on Masculine-Feminine dressing is represented, including his pantsuit with YSL logo glittered on back and original sketches of Le Smoking. His color-blocked and still widely replicated Mondrian dresses were present, and his most far-reaching departure, the Morocco collections, where he discovered and experimented with a new color palette. Unexpected and exquisite were his Flora inspired gowns from his 1990 summer collection - a tribute to his childhood in Marrakech and Tangier. Adding even more whimsy, there is the wedding dress of roses carefully placed and originally worn by Laetitia Casta in the 1999 collection. The retrospective is worth a second trip alone just to absorb the many visions and inspirations. Never simply an outfit, YSL's designs were a manifestation of his dreams and memories - movement and elegance wrapped together in fabric and nostalgia.
Posted by Daniela Province at 9:09 AM No comments:
Sunday, November 9, 2008
All About Yves
The flurry of fashion events stemming from the retrospective on the late Yves Saint Laurent at the De Young Museum this month has hit San Francisco on a large scale. Opening festivities might be past, but the exhibit is on view until April and is not to be missed.
On November 1st, The Innovative Fashion Council had a chance to attend a very special symposium at the Koret Auditorium on the life and cultural influence of Yves Saint Laurent. The elite group of speakers included Hamish Bowles (European Editor-at-Large for Vogue), Florence Muller (Fashion Historian, Professor and Editor for Surface Magazine), and Farid Chenoune (Fashion Historian and Author) - each with a unique perspective on how YSL shaped modern fashion for women. Pierre Berge, longtime business partner of the late YSL, provided the opening remarks.
Hamish Bowles focused his presentation on the early years as a young apprentice to Christian Dior to "The Three Fates" that led to YSL taking over the couture house and his dramatic move to open his own atelier (with the help of Berge, his devoted clients and "muses", and loyal Dior staff). While critics declared his first collection "underwhelming," Coco Chanel named him her only true heir, and the rich hues influenced by his travels to Morocco were on the way. With his new muse Loulou de la Falaise, YSL united the aristocracy with bohemianism in his collections and became the designer of his time. When he moved his couture house to the grand Avenue Marceau, YSL declared "I need opulence as others need oceans or mountains."
Farid Chenoune focused on what might be the greatest revolution in women's fashion -the debut of "Le Smoking" in 1966. This elegant take on the tuxedo for evening wear essentially gave women the power they had lost in the feminine frills of the "Mad Men" world and trapeze dresses. YSL made it possible for women to have sex appeal without the vulgarity. Chenoune further pointed out the timeless appeal of this iconic look in the example of the French fashion chain La Redoute introducing Le Smoking in its 1995 catalog. So while "Chanel gave women freedom, YSL gave them the power." And the power of this outfit couldn't be conveyed any stronger than in the uber-chic style of famed YSL muse, Betty Catroux, who was also in San Francisco during the opening of the exhibit.
In the final presentation, Florence Muller gave her own interpretation of how YSL revolutionized the world of women through her own experiences in his pieces for YSL Rive Gauche. In her own YSL ensemble, she shared the secret of YSL, which is style to help you define your own personality - not make your personality. In his spirit for modern sportswear (begun by Chanel in the early 1900's) YSL stated, "My dream is to give women the basis for a classic wardrobe, which, escaping the fashion of the moment, will give them greater confidence in themselves." And what greater gift can a designer give a woman than confidence? Muller mused that it's increasingly harder for modern designers to make the same impact as YSL, because now that women have it all, what's next?
And what is next is the impact YSL will continue to have on style and elegance. While the presenters answered many questions on the mystery and delicacy of YSL and his talents, their insights opened the door to even more musings- who is the YSL of today and would he/she even have the means to make such an impact?
There's more to come on YSL in San Francisco. Thursday night ArtPoint host a VIP party and private viewing of the exhibit and coming soon, we'll have more from Florence Muller in Paris.
Posted by Daniela Province at 8:48 PM No comments:
Saturday, November 8, 2008
Innovative Fashion Council Mixer and Media Panel Event
The IFC is hosting another fashion-filled cocktail party/mixer event at The W Hotel on Wednesday, November 19th from 6:30-9:30pm. Bertrand Pellegrin (Retail Strategist, Gensler Design Worldwide and author of "Branding the Man: Why Men Are the Next Frontier in Fashion Retail" will moderate a panel discussion with local fashion and media professionals on fashion and sustainability - "Does Eco-Fashion Matter in a Down Economy?"
Panelists include: Samantha Durbin (Editor, FabSugar.com), Nerissa Pacio (Associate Editor, Fashion and Beauty, 7x7 Magazine), Melissa Davis (Founder, Ruby PR and Past Contributing Editor, Lucky Magazine), Dino Ray Ramos (Fashion and Entertainment Contributor, AsianWeek Magazine, 944, and StyleHive.com), Riley John-Donnell (Founder and publisher, Surface Magazine) and Audrey Mansfield (Style Contributor, The View from the Bay).
There will also be a fashion show featuring Eco-Designer brands Kailia Italian Footwear, Del Forte Denim, JenDarling Eco Lux bags, and select looks from Carrots Boutique in San Francisco and Hearts Desire Jewelry in Oakland.
Don't miss this opportunity to network with the San Francisco fashion community and learn more about the future of sustainable design from the experts in the industry.
For more information and to purchase tickets, click here.
Panelists include: Samantha Durbin (Editor, FabSugar.com), Nerissa Pacio (Associate Editor, Fashion and Beauty, 7x7 Magazine), Melissa Davis (Founder, Ruby PR and Past Contributing Editor, Lucky Magazine), Dino Ray Ramos (Fashion and Entertainment Contributor, AsianWeek Magazine, 944, and StyleHive.com), Riley John-Donnell (Founder and publisher, Surface Magazine) and Audrey Mansfield (Style Contributor, The View from the Bay).
There will also be a fashion show featuring Eco-Designer brands Kailia Italian Footwear, Del Forte Denim, JenDarling Eco Lux bags, and select looks from Carrots Boutique in San Francisco and Hearts Desire Jewelry in Oakland.
Don't miss this opportunity to network with the San Francisco fashion community and learn more about the future of sustainable design from the experts in the industry.
For more information and to purchase tickets, click here.
Posted by Daniela Province at 9:39 AM 1 comment:
Saturday, November 1, 2008
Optimism Graces the Runway at Fresh Faces in Fashion
Local designers presenting their Spring 2009 collections at the Gen Art Fresh Faces in Fashion Show held Thursday at the Regency Center proved there is adequate space in fashion for vibrancy and lightness despite what the evening news might say. Following suit with trends seen at the major Spring collections shown in September, the designers presented a variety of views that show optimism still reigns supreme on the runway.
Christopher Collins opened the show with his collection of modern Elizabethan silhouettes in luxurious fabrics, incorporating ruffles, organza and chiffon in the tiny details. The show opened strong with a soft neutral ruffle collar sleeveless top paired with a pin stripe short and Elizabethan jacket. A champagne sleeveless cocktail dress with a folded tulle-lined collar was sweet and demure, while a palace blue and emerald floral chiffon/charmeuse dress with a rouched waistband presented a flirty modern take on a sheath. The show closed with my favorite look – a blue and green print on white full skirt with fuchsia tulle below the hemline and a silk organza top with shirred collar that just floated the model down the runway.
Serial Cultura, designed by Jennifer Jennings, provided a stark contrast to Collins with more close to the skin shapes and experiments in digitally printed silks and chiffon. It's important to note that all of the prints and graphics incorporated into the clothing are designed from original photographs and inspired by abundant elements in the environment. A large percentage of the fabrics used are sustainable and produced in less environmentally hazardous methods. Particularly interesting looks from the collection included a digitally printed silk mini-dress in bold colors of the season – lemon, fuchsia and black - over a pale lavender canvas and a matching print pleated triangle top and skirt hand silk-screened on sophisticated hues of blue and lavender.
The only Menswear collection at Fresh Faces, üba was all about utility and function. The color palette didn't stray far from khakis or army greens, but the focus was on the usefulness of the clothing, urban wear to the hilt. Models marched down the runway with iPod ear buds (I couldn't help think of Project Runway's Jay Carroll and his final "headphones" show), showcasing utility jackets with shoulder-strap pockets and detachable waist pockets, cargo pants with detachable cargo pockets, and finally eliciting the most attention from the crowd, short sleeve shirts with detachable chest, waist and sleeve pockets. Throughout each look, models sported "why-not-peace" T-shirts in different languages - a reflection of the company's goals and a current project of üba's designer Rajesh Ananda. According to the company's web site, "over 50% of üba's profits are channeled to non-profit organizations focused on the promotion and protection of peace and human security" with input from the company's customers.
From streetwear to "sweetwear" next up was my personal favorite – OdileOdette - designed by Stephanie Bodnar and Nicole Kreglow. The collection was green and sustainable and completely chic – think Parisian café society meets the French Riviera. The range of fabrics used was astounding – the first looks showed an asymmetrical pencil skirt made from blue hemp/recycled polyester denim with red tagua nut (vegetable ivory) buttons going up the front of its high waist. Paired with a simple ivory gathered open-front top and wedge heels, I could be equally comfortable in this ensemble on the weekend and at work, paired with a dressier heel. Much of the collection had a summery feel with lots of bare legs and shoulders. Mixed in were high-waisted asymmetrical sailor pants in 100% hemp herringbone paired with a green and white striped sleeveless knit top of organic cotton; a beige chevron hooded jacket also in hemp herringbone with ivory tagua nut buttons and for the finale, a wedding gown made in ivory hemp/silk charmeuse and ivory cotton Chantilly lace.
Sofie Ølgaard presented a sophisticated and supremely wearable collection of mostly knits and silks in dusty purples and greys most likely inspired by her homeland of Denmark and the melancholic Scandinavian landscapes. A two-tone pink/taupe dress in silk/cotton with a belted waist could work equally well in summer or kept later for cool weather layered with a little cashmere. A knitted dusty purple silk dress with a detachable bow was daring and very bare, while a taupe empire waist pant paired with a black silk/cotton tie-back top was as crisp and breezy as a day in Copenhagen. And a cropped black jumpsuit with buttons along the front, hidden pockets and a detachable belt could be the outfit of the season for a girl and her bike in the city.
The final collection by Louisa Parris was a bonafide swirl of long flowing yet wispy dresses in saturated hues of pink, blue, green and orange. Every look was ripe with drama from the first blue, grey and black double silk georgette gown that billowed around the model's legs to an almost completely open black and cream silk charmeuse gown with a silk chiffon underskirt. In addition to her bold use of color blocking, Parris showcased a tiny collection of delicate black hats that paired with a burnt orange, grey and black silk charmeuse might be a bit over the top, but worn to an intimate masked ball somewhere in a castle in the English countryside seem perfect.
Fresh Faces is known to be a springboard for fashion's emerging design talent, including Zac Posen, Rebecca Taylor and Philip Lim. Here's hoping that at least one or all of these local designers receives an opportunity to travel through wide-open doors while keeping the spirit of San Francisco alive in their practice and aesthetics.
To see more pictures of the show please visit The Innovative Fashion Council on Facebook.
Posted by Daniela Province at 9:49 AM 9 comments:
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Tuesday, 1 November 2016
Mrs Buhari Promised To Tackle Cases Of Rape, Forced Marriage
The wife of the President, Mrs Aisha Buhari, has commended the effort of northern governors' wives for identifying and tackling the challenges of rape, forced marriage and the spread of drug abuse among youths in the north.
Mrs Buhari made the commendation on Monday when the 19 wives paid her a courtesy visit at the State House, Abuja.
She also commended them for articulating the key challenges facing the region.
The wife of the president promised to do her best by working with relevant agencies to tackle the cases of rape, forced marriage and drug abuse .
She thanked them for working as a team to identify the challenges.
She said that her effort in assisting the less privileged and vulnerable children in Nigeria wouldn't have been possible without the support of the governors wives.
The wife of the president promised to work with them to address the challenges facing the most families in the region.
The Chairperson of the Northern Governors Wives, Mrs Asma'u Yari, who led the others to the visit, said it was to brief the first lady on the spread of drug abuse and addiction among women and youths in northern Nigeria.
The wife of Kebbi State Governor, Dr. Zainab Bagudu, said they came to appreciate the effort of the first lady on her humanitarian effort which was yielding positive result.
Bagudu rejoiced with Mrs Buhari over the improvement of the security situation in Nigeria, especially in the north east
She, therefore, expressed the hope that the collaboration between them and the wife of the president would continue to provide fruitful results.
The wife of Bauchi State Governor, Mrs Hadiza Abubakar, said the visit was also to seek for the support of the wife of the president on the way forward in addressing the challenges of rape and early marriage in the north (NAN).
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Maples and Calder Partners Ranked in Chambers High Net Worth
In the first edition of Chambers High Net Worth, Maples and Calder partners, Nigel Porteous, Morven McMillan and Ray Davern, have ranked in Offshore Trusts in the Cayman Islands, with the firm also staking its claim in the rankings. Ray also was ranked in Expertise Based Abroad for Offshore Trusts in the British Virgin Islands. These rankings are a further testament to the continued strengthening of the firm's market leading trusts and private client team.
Nigel is co-head of Maples and Calder's Cayman Islands trusts practice. "Nigel is terrific," said one interviewee, "he gives great advice, he's very thoughtful and understands our business."
Cayman Islands co-head, Morven, joined the firm in January 2016. "Her contentious lens on non-contentious work is very valuable for ultra-high net worth situations," commented one fellow attorney in the industry.
Ray was recruited to the firm's London office in June 2016. Recognised as one of the top 20 men in Private Wealth Management by Citywealth, Ray is described as, "…a real star in the offshore trust world. Brilliant intellectually, but commercial and practical with it. His knowledge of trust law is second to none and is put to formidable use in the service of his clients."
These rankings highlight Maples and Calder's strength in depth at the cutting edge of the offshore trusts industry.


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"The Securities and Exchange Commission is expected to approve civil fraud charges against former Countrywide Financial Corp. executives as soon as today, including founder and former chief executive Angelo Mozilo, people familiar with the matter say."
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If you are looking for an AMAZING place to work with incredible professionals who think outside the box, this is the job for you! Animal Wellness Centers, a multi-location veterinary practice, is looking to hire a part-time or full-time Veterinarian (DVM / VMD) to join our team.
We have FOUR Milwaukee area practices that offer our clients a list of comprehensive services including D.R. x-ray for dental and full body imaging, in-house blood work, surgeries, dental cleanings and extractions, and general wellness care. Full-Time Veterinarian compensation includes a very competitive annual salary and benefits package. Great growth potential.
All clinic hours are Monday-Friday 8AM-6PM with ½ day Saturday.
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If you are interested in this position, please forward your CV for consideration to firstname.lastname@example.com or call (815) 914-1358
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Related Information for Michael Gray Michael Gray is a British DJ / producer who is signed to independent dance record label Eye Industries. He is also one half of the popular dance music production/remixing duo Full Intention.In 2004, Gray began issuing records under his own name, the first being "The Weekend.", a worldwide hit in late that year. It peaked at #7 in the UK Singles Chart when licenced through UMTV on Eye Industries, and also notched up over 20,000 plays on the radio. In the United States, "The.. read more


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catch my fall
I tried to engage in some phototherapy today (to get out of a bitchy mood), but out of all the pictures I shot, only six made it to my flckr account. It's been that kind of day.
I was going for "signs that fall is here" though I got distracted by a shiny plane in the sky.
If anyone can figure out why I call this one "Devil's Rain Corn" I will be your best friend forever.
This was my favorite of the bunch:
Go vote for album cover in the post below, nominations close in the a.m.
[What I failed to accomplish with phototherapy, I accomplished with steak, shrimp, Nick Cave and Captain Morgan]


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Free weekly planner templates can help you get on a schedule and can help you and your family stays on track. You can print a free weekly calendar using a template online to provide greater customization than a store bought weekly planner or day planner. It is also more cost effective to print weekly planners online from templates than to buy pre-made templates in stores. Finally, you can fill out your template on the computer in many cases, which will make it neater and easier to read, especially if you have bad handwriting.
Types of Free Weekly Planner Templates
There are numerous different types of free weekly planner templates, depending on what you need to plan. Perhaps you might be looking for just a day planner with each day of the week. Alternatively, you may want a template for specific activities or a template designed as more of a to do list that allows you to assign tasks for each day of the week.
There are also specialized planning templates that allow you to plan different aspects of your week. For example, you may want to plan your weekly meals to allow you to grocery shop more efficiently and save money. If so, perhaps a weekly meal-planning template is right for you.
Before looking for free weekly planner templates, make sure you know what type of organizational structure you are looking for. You may have to experiment with a few until you find the perfect template to organize your busy life --- but don't worry, since the templates are free, you won't lose anything but the cost of a bit of paper and ink if you decide a template isn't right for you.
Finding Downloadable Weekly Planner Templates
The following website provide free downloads of weekly planning templates for a number of different situations:
- Vertex 42 has a weekly planning template that makes use of Microsoft Office Excel. The template was designed to be printed and to fit neatly into letter size three ringed binders so you can take your template anywhere and essentially use it to create your own personal day planner. You will need to have the Microsoft Office suite of software, including Microsoft Excel, to download and use this template.
- Microsoft Office also provides a number of different planning templates that you can download and open using Microsoft Word. Some of the templates are conference planners or monthly planners, but there are also options for weekly planning templates, for homework planning templates, for monthly planning, and for any other situation the average family or working individual is likely to encounter.
- Calendars Quick offers 80 different Excel and PDF templates for printing. The calendars range from a standard week to an eight-week calendar or a custom weekly planner. There are also family calendar templates and photo calendar templates if you want a more fun or functional way to organize yourself and your family.
- Dot Connector's printable template is more geared towards the businessperson, with both a weekly planning template and a goal setting worksheet that can be downloaded and used to organize your work products and set goals of varying importance for the week.
Using Your Planner
The key to weekly planning is not just to find the write planner to download, but to actually use the planner and make it functional for you. There are a number of different organization systems people have implemented, from using color-coding so each member of the family has a different color to using complex listing systems that require you to separate your tasks into individual components.
Regardless of which system you choose, carry your planner with you at all times so you can make sure you use it and update it as needed. Be consistent and eventually updating and working from your planner will become like second nature and you will be a much more organized and productive person.


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There will always be new and interesting things to try when cooking. You should be creative regardless of what or when you are cooking. Using the proper techniques can change an ordinary meal into a fabulous event that will be well-remembered. Get some tips like these together, so you can get a great flavor going in the kitchen.
If you're trying to start making more food yourself, try looking at basic cookbooks in your local library or bookstore. Try making three or four of the recipes that appeal to you the most, and give yourself plenty of time to perfect your newly acquired skill.
Being properly prepared is key to success in cooking for your family and friends. This will allow you to make sure that all the necessary ingredients are accounted for. The day before your meal, get your kitchen into cooking mode and hunt down your favorite utensils, pots and pans. This can help relax everything so that you can make something great.
For a delicious take on pie crusts, bake them for longer than the recipe calls for. Go past the usual pale tan color and take them to a caramel gold. When the crust is a golden color then you know the sugar has caramalized and you will have a sweet and crispy result.
Cut meat thinly across the grain when you are stir-frying. This is rather difficult to do, and can take a lot of time. Then take the meat of out the freezer when it has firmed up a little, but has not frozen yet, and cut the meat at 45 degrees with the grain.
You need to prepare to cook a meal before you can actually cook it. Make sure you have everything you need to make your food. Put everything you need to cook the dish out the night before. Make sure you have all the cooking equipment and ingredients required. Being prepared will settle your anxiety and ensure that you are ready to create a fantastic meal.
Sharp knives are an essential tool. Knives that have been allowed to dull are dangerous and difficult to use. With a dull knife, you may have to struggle to cut a vegetable, making it more likely that you will get injured in the process. Using a sharp knife will make it easier to cut that vegetable, so you are less likely to get hurt.
Anytime you use meat for a stir-fry, make sure to slice the meat as thinly as you can and make your cut on the bias. This can sometimes be a tricky undertaking and very time-consuming. Once the meat has become more firm, you should slice against the grain at 45 degrees.
Sometimes when someone's grilling a hamburger, it will get stuck to the grill which makes it difficult to get off the grill. To prevent your burgers from sticking, brush the grill with oil prior to cooking.
When you are grilling burgers, they sometimes lose their shape when they stick to your grill and become hard to remove. Because of this, you should use vegetable oil to brush the grill prior to cooking so that you can prevent the meat from sticking.
Chicken Broth
Avoid cooking foods in excessive oil when you are trying to become healthier or drop a few extra pounds. Many foods can be prepared in an alternative way that does not involve frying in oil. Oil and butter provide a lot of un-needed fat. You can use non-stick cooking spray as an alternative to get the same results without the extra fats.
Chicken broth is a great cooking base for vegetables. By using chicken broth instead of water, you will add extra flavor to your vegetables. Chicken broth can be found at almost all local grocery stores at a very cheap price.
When you plan on using wooden skewers for cooking, soak them in water for 30 minutes prior to cooking. This will prevent them from burning while you are cooking. Prevent softer food from falling into the coals by using two parallel skewers rather than a single one.
If you are looking to lose weight and keep a healthy diet, it is very important you use less oil when cooking. Unnecessary fats are contained in butters and oils. As an alternative, try using non-stick cooking spray as it works the same while containing less unhealthy ingredients and fats.
Pumpkin preparation involves slicing it in half, from top to bottom. Put each half, cut side down, on a separate baking sheet. Toss a little water on the pans, and bake for roughly an hour at 350 degrees.
Measure the amount of cooking oil you use! If you measure the amount of cooking oil you use instead of just dumping some into a pan, you are far less likely to overdo it. Measuring the oil will let you closely examine how much oil you are using.
By doing this, you will find that you will have fresh fruit for a much longer time. Additionally, you'll have fruits available to you that aren't for sale in the markets when they're not in season.
Many popular veggies and herbs have a strong residual odor that can remain on cutting boards well after use. Mark your ends on the cutting board using indelible ink so that you can remember one side from the other.
Don't mix unfamiliar wine into your food. If you cook with an unfamiliar wine, you run the risk of disliking the taste of the wine and having it ruin your food. Look for wines that are specifically used for cooking.
It's vital that you ensure that the utensils you cook with are clean prior to cooking. You need to make sure there is no residue left on the utensils, it could ruin your food. This can be costly because it might allow for bacteria to spread.
If you love to use herbs and spices, make sure you keep them in a dark, cool place to keep them fresh. Storing spices and herbs in cabinets above the stove or in other warmer locations will result in a loss of flavor and a loss of money.
Follow the instructions carefully whenever you cook macaroni and cheese. The taste of the macaroni, when combined with the velvety cheese, will be amazing! Stir the cheese sauce into your perfectly cooked noodles. Add some extra flavor with pepper.
Place any unripened fruit that you buy in a plastic bag that is perforated. As the fruits ripen, ethylene gas is produced. Placing fruit in a perforated bag allows air circulation in the bag, retaining ethylene gas and keeping the fruit tasting good.
When you are cooking pasta, use a fair amount of salt in the water. The seasonings in the water will infuse the pasta thoroughly. This is much more effective than trying to add salt to pasta that you have already cooked.
When you are cooking, a good habit to get into is to wash the dishes as soon as you are done with them. For a lot of people, the worst part of cooking is the cleaning up. Your pots and pans will be easier to clean right after use, and they will also be available for use again right away.
Explore creativity when you cook. Feel free to adapt a recipe to suit your particular needs. A recipe can be greatly improved upon if you add a little of this, or take away a little of that. That is how a real cook gets it cooking!
Having the prep work done a day in advance will make the cooking process less stressful. Get all of the ingredients that you will need, measure and chop all spices or herbs and make sure that you have what the recipe requires. When the time comes to make the meal, all you need to do is put it all together and cook it!
Make all the preparations for your food before you begin to cook it. This will keep you from being distracted while the food is cooking. It can be dangerous preparing ingredients while hot oil is cooking on the stove, for instance. Having everything ready beforehand is safer and less stressful.
When planning to barbecue, don't forget the lead time necessary to get the grill hot when you are ready to use it. Allot at least 30 minutes for the process, prior to placing food on the grill, to get your fire started and coals ready. Your coals should be covered in ash and of a medium temperature. This is optimum grilling temperature.
Sauteing with too much food in the pan can lead to unwanted issues. The moisture from the extra food will cause it to steam. This way the food will be too moist, not crisp like sauteed food should be. Make sure you saute foods on a low temperature.
When you tie the turkey using string, you are trussing it. It helps to keep the legs and wings of the turkey close so that the bird cooks more evenly. The wings and tips of the bird would burn before the body of the bird was cooked if not trussed.
There are several different methods you can use to heat tortillas. Preheat the oven to 350 and place your tortilla in the oven until it is crisp. Another suggestion is to place the tortilla directly over the burner above the flame on top of a gas stove. These methods make delicious and fresh tortillas.
There are a vast array of potato varieties, and they should not be substituted. There are certain types of potatoes that are waxy, which are fine for boiled potatoes and potato salad, but are pretty awful for French fries, baked potatoes, and mashed potatoes. When making those foods, potatoes which are fluffy, like Russets, are best.
"Trussing" is the term used to describe the process of using string to tie the turkey. This prevents the legs and wings from moving too far away from the main body, which can cause it to cook unevenly. The wings and tips of the bird would burn before the body of the bird was cooked if not trussed.
If you're cooking for someone of importance, do not try your hand at an untested recipe, no matter how much you would like to impress your guest with a gourmet meal. You no doubt would want to impress a date, boss or everyone at your employer's pot luck. Instead, try a recipe that you have prepared before and can cook really well.
Use space-saving stackable racks for cooling. If you do not have this, your cooking area will be cluttered with cooling cookies and baking pans. These racks utilize the vertical spaces in your kitchen. Stack your cookies vertically until they cool off, and use your work space to prepare something else.
If your schedule will be packed the following day, get some of your ingredients ready the day before you intend to cook. You can cut down on stress, save time, and still provide a wonderful family meal by fixing lasagna or preparing a stir-fry a day in advance and keeping it in your refrigerator.
Use a thicker skinned potato for more successful potato skins. A red potato's skin is too thin to hold together if you are using a dense filling.
If you've been handling smelly ingredients like garlic, onions, or fish, try rubbing your hands with stainless steel for about one minute before you wash them. You can use your stainless steel sink or a spoon to quickly remove the odor from your hands.
Add spices to meals after they are cooked. Salt, pepper, garlic powder and cayenne are all excellent seasonings. Let people choose their spices so that they do not waste your delicious food. Do not spice the meal until after its cooked so that your guests can customize the taste of the meal. This way you are sure that every person enjoys their dish.
Grilling fruit is an excellent option. Load up a kebab with sliced fruits such as melons, peaches, nectarines, and pears. Cook them until you see grill marks. Serve these grilled slices of fruit with ice cream for instance.
Becoming a good cook is a lifelong learning process. Here, we have compiled some great examples of tricks and techniques that will help you use your cooking to win the hearts of your family and friends.
Layer salads properly when you are preparing a salad in advance. Put the juiciest components at the bottom. For example, the tomatoes should be on the very bottom of the serving bowl. Those ingredients that might become soggy or wilt should be near the top; one such ingredient is lettuce.


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The last part of this series. Blue swimcap again... Once she realises, laughing through tight rubber won't work! Xd and 1 minute without air - the cap the tightest way on *yummy (average quali, no background music)


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Unfold Reed College by anon (guest), 30 Mar 2010 00:07
Reed College
Started by: anon (guest)
Date: 30 Mar 2010 00:07
Number of posts: 3
RSS: New posts
Date: 30 Mar 2010 00:07
Number of posts: 3
RSS: New posts
Summary:Does anyone know the status of the Reed College search?
I heard they had three candidates visit in January and JUST brought in a fourth. I assume the first 3 did not work for whatever reason and they are deciding on that fourth person?
Unfold Re: Reed College by anony (guest), 30 Mar 2010 05:13
Unfold Re: Reed College by anonymous (guest), 01 Apr 2010 23:24


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Here are the steps that you will want to take to start Android Honeycomb development on Ubuntu (or even Windows for that matter). This guide assumes that you have an internet connection and Eclipse: Helios installed:
- Goto the Android Developer pages and Download the SDK.
- Install the SDK and place it in a location in your filesystem. (Remember this location because later, it is required to setup the Eclipse ADT plugin)
- Run the SDK manager and install all of the avaliable Android packages; this may take some time depending on your internet connection speed.
- Fire up Eclipse Helios and goto: Help -> Install New Software…
- In this section you will want to add two new repos to Eclipse and they can be found on this google code page and the ADT repo from the Android developer pages. Instructions are provided in the links.
- The second repo that you installed contains the ADT plugin; select that repo from the list and install the ADT plugin. Once you are done you will be prompted to restart eclipse which you should do.
- Once Eclipse has restarted you will want to let the ADT plugin know where you installed the SDK. To do this go: Windows -> Preferences and then Click on the 'Android' preference tab; a window should appear that asks you for the 'SDK Location'. Put the filesystem location of the Android SDK in that box and hit apply. If many targets appear after a few seconds then you have done it correctly. Now press OK to exit the Preferences.
- Go back and run SDK manager again. In here create an Android virtual machine for the type of Android Project that you would like to develop. Remember that the more RAM that you give the VM the better but the emulator will probably still be slow; try and mirror a real device.
- In Eclipse, press Ctrl+N and create an Andriod project from the menu. First select the version of the SDK that you would like to use and then I recommended selecting one of the test projects that are avaliable for that SDK.
- Run the project from the eclipse run menu as an Android Project and watch it run in an emulator.
And that is all that there is to it. Perhaps a few more steps than you would expect but once you are done you will have a complete Android Honeycomb development environment. If you have any questions or want clarification then please ask it in the comments.


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Warranty: 5 years parts and labour and 5 years on the unit. Stieble Open Vented With Tap - Model Number: SNU10/WTAP. To discuss product specifications and warranty, please call our customer relations officers on (02) 9630 6683. IMPORTANT: Delivery to Sydney Metro Area Only. Must be installed by a licensed Electrician or Plumber.
At www.hotwaterstore.com.au we aim to be the biggest and best hot water store in Australia for:
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Indicadores de atenção básica em saúde bucal: associação com as condições socioeconômicas, fluoretação de águas e a estratégia de saúde da família no Sul do Brasil
Abstract (Summary)This paper analyzed the primary dental care indicators of the Brazilian National Health System (SUS) as following coverage of dental attendance, ratio between dental extraction and dental procedures and coverage of preventive measures among children up to 14 years-old in the municipalities from the southern region of Brazil (n=1159) between years 2000 and 2005. In addition, the association of these indicators with socioeconomic indicators, dental services, water fluoridation and coverage of the oral health care in the Family Health Program (FHP) was tested. The increase of the coverage of dental attendance was positively associated with percentage of rural population, Human Development Index (HDI), number of dentists per capita and FHP coverage. Dental extraction was negatively associated with percentage of rural population, HDI, number of dentists per capita and the FHP coverage, and positively associated with Gini index. Preventive dental measures were negatively associated with Gini index, poverty and number of dentists per capita, and positively associated with the percentage of rural population, HDI and FHP coverage.
Bibliographical Information:
Advisor:Karen Glazer Peres; Marcos Pascoal Pattussi; Emil Kupek; Marco Aurélio de Anselmo Peres
School:Universidade Federal de Santa Catarina
School Location:Brazil
Source Type:Master's Thesis
Keywords:odontologia preventiva brasil sul aspectos sociais econômicos saúde bucal indicadores avaliação serviços de planejamento programa da família saude publica
Date of Publication:06/26/2008


text: American record producer, radio personality and DJ, Khaled after the success of his last album 'We The Best Forever' is ready for his next venture. On December 9, 2011 the DJ launched a promotional video for his sixth full length LP 'Kiss The Ring'. The title has been kept with reference to the NBA star […]Read more


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The speculation about the new concertmaster for the Dallas Symphony has been broiling ever since Emanuel Borok retired from that position last August. The DSO has brought in a parade of players to sit in the chair, but the audience never really knew if they were candidates or placeholders. As it turns out, two of them will be returning on a permanent basis. Alexander Kerr will be the primary holder of the position and the 24-year-old Nathan Olson will take over when Kerr is elsewhere.
You can read the DSO's press release about Kerr's appointment here. Kerr and Olson will begin their new jobs here on Sept. 1, 2011, when the DSO begins its 2011-'12 season.
I caught up with Kerr for a telephone interview.
TheaterJones: Welcome to Dallas. How did this all happen?
Kerr: At first, I was invited to be a guest concertmaster to help fill in while the search was going on. I really liked the orchestra and the players were so welcoming. Many I already knew and some, like Greg Raden (Principal Clarinet) were classmates of mine. Of course, [DSO Music Director] Jaap [van Zweden] and I go way back.
Didn't you follow Jaap van Zweden as concertmaster of the Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra in Amsterdam when he left to start conducting?
Sure did. I was very young then. While I was the concertmaster there, I shared the job with another violinist.
Two concertmasters? Is that why the idea to share the chair in the DSO first came up?
It is common in Europe. Jaap had a co-concertmaster while he sat in the chair. It's a better model to follow. Some orchestras have more than two concertmasters; I think that the Berlin Philharmonic actually has four. You need a break to do this job and keep it fresh and energized.
What causes all the stress?
Well, there is a lot more to it than just playing the violin part, although you have to start with playing that very well indeed. The concertmaster is there to facilitate. You are a go-between. You are a conduit between the orchestra and the conductor and between the separate parts of the orchestra as well. Besides, there are a lot of expectations coming at you from all directions.
That's important, and seems like a lot of responsibility.
It's not as bad as it used to be in Mozart's time. The concertmaster carried a sword to work in those days [big laugh].
Of course, the concertmaster was also the conductor back then, too.
Correct. But when music began to get more and more complicated and the orchestra bigger, it became clear that someone needed to concentrate on keeping things together and not be playing at the same time. So, the conductor was invented and concertmaster because the leader of the orchestra. It is still a big job. We no longer need to be armed, but a mentor of mine told me, early on in my career, that you never sit in this chair and remain unscathed.
How do you take a leadership role while playing?
My body language is there for anyone who wants to watch. Things can always go wrong and there have been many times a concertmaster has helped successfully steer the ship back to port!
Will you still continue to teach at Indiana University?
Yes, I will. I love teaching there. It is a wonderful school. That is when Nathan will take over for me here.
How long will that be?
I will be in Dallas for 12 weeks next season and for 16 weeks after that. It will mostly coincide with when Jaap is conducting.
What did the dean of the music school at IU say when you went in to tell him?
He asked me if he should be sitting down (laugh). Actually, he really took it quite well. His name is Gwyn Richards and he is a first class amazing dean. Without his support, my decision to join the orchestra would have been a very difficult one to make. IU has had a long history of performing professors: Gingold, Starker, Pressler, for example. But Gwyn's understanding of my situation meant a lot to me. Besides, IU has always had professors that are still performing and are away for periods of time.
Doesn't the concertmaster usually do the bowings [deciding when the bow will go up and down]? Will you do them here?
Yes and I enjoy that part of the job. I have a great collection of bowed parts from when I played in the Concertgebouw. In fact, I have copies of violin parts of some of the Mahler symphonies with Mahler's own bowings on them. There are even some handwritten comments that Mahler wrote down for the concertmaster at the premiere. Talk about authentic bowings!
This is quite a year of change for the DSO. What do you think about its direction?
I always was blessed with great bosses. Now I have four of them that are really outstanding and forward-thinking. There's Dean Richards at IU, and three here. Of course, Jaap is the one with whom I will be working the closest, but Paul Stewart [interim President of the DSO] is just as remarkable. When Paul and I sat down to talk about the possibility of me coming to Dallas, I was just astounded by his vision and energy. That interview was really the turning point in my decision-making process. And now that the DSO has added Bill Lively as the CEO, the trajectory of the Dallas Symphony is going to make history. I am incredibly excited to have the opportunity to perform with my new maestro. I will do my very best to help him realize his artistic vision for the DSO and look forward to our first collaboration next week.
What about a concerto? Everyone in Dallas will want to hear you play one.
As you know, programming is done years in advance, so much of the next two years is already set, but I hope there will an opportunity to play something with the orchestra.
What would you like to play?
Something by an American composer; perhaps the Barber or the Korngold. Maybe Bernstein's Serenade.
I vote for all three.
Sunday, April 3 at 1:04AM
Fantastic interview, congratulations on your new position with the orchestra, Mr. Kerr!


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This months marks the one year anniversary of Sea's Adopt of Gluten Free Blogger. I really like participating in this monthly event because it gives me a kick in the pants to try a new recipe, one that's already been tested by a fellow gf blogger! I have a whole binder full of printed recipes just waiting to be made.
This month I choose Jill of Hey, that tastes good! fame. Every time I read her blog I find a new recipe I'm just dying to try. Everything I've made from her recipes has turned out amazing! There are literally dozens of dessert recipes that I want to try out from her; and while my taste-buds are ready, my waistline is not.
Things I have made include her Lemon Layer Cake (which I brought into work for someone's birthday and everyone thought it was amazing!), Biscuits (used for biscuits and gravy - YUM), Fried Okra, Black Bean Soup, Mustard Breaded Pork Chops, along with many others. It makes me hungry just looking at her site! It's always nice to go there if I need some inspiration for a side dish, or meal.
For the Adopt a GF Blogger, I made Jill's Spicy Peanut Noodles with Thai-Style Meatballs. These are incredible. I added a little more chili garlic sauce than the recipe called for because it's a favorite ingredient of mine! The Boy loved the meatballs and the Girl even ate some of the noodles. It was enjoyed all around.
If you haven't check out her site yet, go there now! Thanks Jill for another great recipe. And thanks to Sea at Book of Yum for hosting another great Adopt a GF Blogger!


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Hawkins, Nancy | Morse Department of Special Collections
Name: Hawkins, Nancy
Historical Note: Nancy Hawkins served as the American Council on Consumer Interests representative to the United Nations from 1963–1991 (and perhaps longer). From 1963–1972 and 1984–1991 (and perhaps longer), Nancy represented the International Organization of Consumers Unions at the United Nations. She worked on consumer issues that were discussed by the UN's Economic and Social Council and the General Assembly. Nancy and Persia Campbell worked to have Consumer Education and Information included in the economic rights section of the Declaration on Human Rights. Nancy wanted to make sure future students of the consumer movement had access to this information. Nancy also served from 1960–62 as the president of the Consumers League of New Jersey.
Sources: Letter in donor file from Nancy Hawkins to Anthony R. Crawford dated June 10, 1991.


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On the construction side of things, this is what's called a "flat file" site. Instead of each page being one complete file of HTML, this site uses several different components to build the pages. This enhances the site's flexibility and makes updating it a lot easier than a regular "static site". Everything from the menus to the header, footer and page content are separate files that each page "calls" to display. When a page or section is added, changing the menus to add or remove links to the new page is done in one file and takes effect across all the pages that "call" it.
But it doesn't stop there!
The site also has "administrator" priviledges that allow for text and image updates online. This gives site owners the ability to update or correct text and images directly without the need for a web developer to do it. I will include some screen shots of this function when time permits. You can even add photos to an automated gallery! Just upload your photos to the appropriate folder and let the web site take care of the rest!
A key component to this site is the integration of scripts from various sources that I've found freely available on the internet, which I then customized to integrate with the graphics, colours etc. All of these features can be used on your site too! In fact, they can be integrated into some existing sites.
Eventually, there will be a whole host of different articles and ideas presented along with some interactive features that will allow you to leave comments or post your own ideas. There will also be demonstration pages to show how various features can work within a "flat file" system. These feature pages will contain links to the sites where the scripts were found after they have been tested and posted by me.
In addition, you will find articles that I've written containing some important information regarding the choices you will have to make when developing the necessary tools for promoting your business, regardless of size or budget. I will be updating those articles as needed, but all of them will be kept for your future reference. You can find those articles listed on the "articles" page or in the cascading menu at the top of every page.
It's my hope that you will find this site to be a useful source of information and connections. Additionally, if you have any ideas you'd like to see here, please use the contact form and send me an email. I'd really like to hear from you!
Dave T
© Copyright 2009, cdtconnections.comAll Rights Reserved


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Winter/Spring Brochure & Activity Registration
The Bexley Recreation & Parks Winter/Spring Activity Brochure is now available for viewing online! All activities/events from January - March will be listed in this brochure. Bexley residents will receive a hard copy of the brochure on January 2nd in the This Week Bexley News. We will also provide extra hard copies at Jeffrey Mansion, City Hall, and the Library.
Activity Registration Opens: Monday, January 6th at 12:00 noon (online or in-person).
For more information or if you have a questions, please call us at 614.559.4300.
Posted on Tuesday, December 17, 2013 at 02:54PM|


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Love the online forums that talk about my book, Finding Betty Crocker. This forum is particularly fun because it is part of the Betty Crocker website.
A little update, I'm working away on the Munsingwear book. It's going well. Of course, the rest of my friends are enjoying their summer while I'm a slave to history writing, but other than that, it's going well.
Reading anything good this summer? I recommend anything by this author!


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Archive for video
Video: Naples (Campania) from Layers: Places in Peril
"Naples" is part of "Layers: Places in Peril," an art and earth science exhibit currently in the Aylward Gallery. We had the opportunity to film Professor Waller while she was working on this painting. Visit http://foxblogs.uwc.edu/layers/ for more information about this exhibit.


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Speaker is from Picayune, MS; she is a 79-year-old white woman with a grade-school education.
[FW:] Now, you just pretend you hadn't talked to me any before, and you tell me about the government movin' you up here.
[INF:]Well now, I don't remember the day or the month or nothing like that, you understand. But I know they come one evening. I just was fixin' to quit working in my garden. And he comed and he says, uh, "Well," says, "Is this Miss [xx]?" And I says, "That's what they call me. Other words, Aunt Blue." I said, "Yes." He says, "Well," says, "I'm takin' pictures around." Says, "The government's goin' to take over everything and Gainesville's goin' have to move out." I says, "All this many years?" I says, "You talk crazy." And he laughed. He says, "No." Says, "I'm here just to tellin you." Said, "Friendly talk." And he says, uh, then my chickens was all out an' it was late in the evening, you know. I told him, I says, "Well you have to excuse me. I got to put my chickens in the chicken yard." He says, "That's just what I want you to do." Well, there was a short fellow with him, you know. He didn't never tell me who he was, you understand. And I went to put my chickens in the chicken yard, fed 'em. And I had on my old bonnet and shirt where I'd been workin', you know. And I throwed the corn out. And I noticed this short feller walked up close to him and said something another. And he says, "Well, you've got a pretty bunch of chickens." Says, "Do they lay?" I says, "Yes." I says, "Sometimes I pick up nine eggs a day and sometimes I don't." He says, "Well, this surely is a pretty place." Well, I didn't know the short man walked up to him and took my picture just as I went to some throw some corn out to 'em, you know.


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Chingford Engineered Wood Flooring Fitting Company
Chingford Engineered Wood Flooring Fitting Company
You might be contemplating having a new flooring fitted? Contact engineered wood flooring fitting company in Chingford at 020 3322 7001. Choosing the right flooring is crucial to the design of the room in your home. The sort of floor that you select can noticeably have an effect on the visual statement you are making an effort for. Laminate, engineered wood, carpet and vinyl flooring had been a longstanding widely used choice for residents in Chingford. It happens to be less expensive compared to tiling and also easier to maintain than solid wood flooring. This makes a superb choice for anybody who is planning to re-floor their living room, hallway, bedroom or maybe kitchen.
If you want the best engineered wood flooring fitting in Chingford, at an affordable rate, then ring us now at 020 3322 7001.
Carpet Fitting Service Near You In Chingford
When you are refurbishing your house and you happen to be confused about which flooring option may very well be the right one for you. One of the biggest concerns you'll face is whether to choose carpet flooring , vinyl flooring, laminate flooring or engineered wood flooring in your residence. Unless you have a good knowledge of these flooring, it's a challenging task to take your final decision. It's extremely crucial to make the right flooring choice , mainly because you're likely to live with it for years. When deciding on the kind of decor materials for refurbished homes, you need to consider both the benefits and drawbacks of your options. As for carpets, its pros are numerous when compared to a different decor material. It can alter the total style and mood of your home. There is certainly an extensive choice of padding varieties to use below carpet. While some need a thicker cushion beneath, others need a thinner one. With this kind of basement covering, your home gets cozy and your feet stays warm during winter months. This is particularly the case if your house is constructed on a concrete basement. Carpets make your room look very formal, laid back and comfortable.
Recommended Vinyl Flooring Fitting Professionals In Chingford
Even though vinyl flooring is a popular option, lots of people are still unaware about its diverse benefits. Safety vinyl flooring is a valuable addition to your home, generally due to its strength and durability. However, the durability and sturdiness mainly is based on the installation quality. The vinyl will certainly last for years, if you install it properly. Quality vinyl installations not only curtails the wear and tear, it helps you save a ton of money too.
Click Here To Buy Non Slip Vinyl Flooring At A Discounted Price
Besides its durability, it also gives great comfort to people even if they stand on it barefoot. This is mainly because of the slip resistant layer over the main vinyl sheets. The original sheets also offer you a firm grip due to their high flexibility.
Vinyl flooring comes in lots of designs. It is possible to choose between different colours, textures or patterns depending on his tastes or preferences. These flooring materials are offered in almost every colour. So, finding the right match for your room is not as challenging as you think.
Above and beyond the colour and design patterns, vinyl flooring is also available in different varieties as well as textures. You should decide between smooth textured materials, rough textured materials and also the the stone-like textures.
Best Laminate Flooring Fitting Cost Per Square Metre In Chingford
Laminate is just one of the best known types of flooring used these days, Laminate flooring has advanced quite a bit from the two tone square print designs of the late 80's and early 90's. Now with modern manufacturing processes, laminate flooring is available in many different colours and designs – some of the imitation wood designs offered are of exceptional quality. Laminate is affordable, reasonably easy to fit by yourself (although it is always best to use the services of a professional fitter) and is waterproof. One of the major cons of laminate flooring is that it can wear easily in areas of high traffic.
Laminate flooring wins over carpet in many ways. Firstly it has reduced down in price such that it is now normally cheaper than carpet per square metre. Secondly it is very hard wearing; indeed in tests a number of laminate floors have proven to be harder wearing compared to solid wood floors.
It also very easy to keep clean, with any liquid spills for instance black coffee, red wine or even paint being easy to wipe up, with no stain left to show. Just imagine of how difficult gloss paint would be to take off from a carpet – a spillage could result in your carpet being totally written off! As a result, this is a big advantage held by laminate floors over other types of flooring.
It now also comes in a number of styles. While most of us just think of laminate flooring as being "wood effect", it is actually now available in various finishes such as mosaic and mock brick or tile effect, making it suitable for a wide range of uses.
In an effort to re-iterate; it truly is hard wearing, low cost, and easy to install. Even if you hire a professional to install the flooring, the cost will be low as the time taken to install is minimal, with a competent fitter able to lay a laminate floor for a typical room in around half a day.
If you've recently searched in Google for commercial flooring installers, we can help you. Give us a call at 020 3322 7001 for more information.
Engineered Wood Flooring Fitting Cost Per Square Metre In Chingford
There are a number of advantages to be found when choosing engineered wood flooring over, for example, solid wood; one of which being the fact that it is normally thought to be more universal by nature, being well suited for installation on top of different kinds of surface, including often tricky concrete floors. In addition, it is also considered more flexible and easier to install and maintain than many alternatives, due to being often sold in easy-to-fit systems, and always coming pre-finished in the pack – which implies no additional preparation such as waxing or oiling of the wood needs to take place. This not only cuts down on extra costs for finishing products, but also implies that your flooring is ready to go, straight out of the pack, saving you or your re-fitter costly additional labour time. Do not forget however that this type of flooring is not suitable for installation in bathrooms or utility areas, where consistent exposure to high levels of moisture may cause movement between the boards to occur.
Another prominent benefit to identify when determining whether choose engineered wood flooring over solid wood flooring is usually that they are suitable for use on top of increasingly popular underfloor heating systems. Solid wood is not appropriate for use with underfloor heating as many varieties of wood appear to be unstable when being subjected to considerable changes in temperature, and are prone to expand and contract more, causing movement in your flooring to occur. Engineered wood flooring will never suffer from this problem since it's a composite product and doesn't react in the same manner to temperature changes. This again adds more fuel to the view that engineered wood flooring is much more versatile and better value for money unlike some of its alternatives.
Nevertheless, before embarking upon engineered wood flooring fitting in Chingford, you should get in touch with our Chingford flooring contractor at 020 3322 7001. Seeking a competent professional will certainly help you get the desired results.


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Accessibility Navigation:
Host families range from single individuals to families with children. They are active members of the community and have a desire to learn more about another culture. Host families commit to hosting an international student for the duration of their stay at Davidson. This is usually for a four year period. Ideally, families and students should meet at least once a month but keep in contact with each other on a more regular basis.
What are the host family's responsibilities?
What is the student's role?
What are some of the host family events?
The International Student Office organizes events for students and their host families. These events are fun opportunities to spend time with your "adopted" student, meet his/her friends, and socialize with other host families. In the past, these events have included:
Want to be a host family?
If you are interested in being a host family for an international student, please complete the Host Family Program Application. Questions may be directed to Susan Hatchett at email@example.com, international student adviser, or Carol Sandke at firstname.lastname@example.com, host family program coordinator. Host family applications are due by July 5. By mid to late July, students and families are paired together and emailed each other's contact information.


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Is an Invention Patent-Worthy?
The Law of Nature or IP Challenge
Figuring out whether an invention is patent-worthy has become a bit easier, thanks to the Federal Circuit's clarifications in Genetic Technologies, Ltd. v. Merial, LLC. A universal inherent feature of human DNA is an ineglible law of nature, while the second prong of the Mayo/Alice test is not met where the claim sets forth no new physical techniques and relies instead on known, routine, and conventional steps. Law of Nature or Patentable Subject Matter?
In Genetic Techs., Genetic Technologies, Ltd. sued Merial LLC and Bristol- Myers Squibb, alleging infringement of U.S. Patent. No. 5,612,179.1 This patent claims methods of analyzing sequences of genomic DNA using the principle of "linkage disequilibrium."2
Linkage disequilibrium was discovered in the 1980's by Dr. Malcom J. Simons, the named inventor on this patent. Dr. Simons found that coding and non-coding regions of the human genome "appear 'linked' together in individuals' genomes more often than probability would dictate" and, regardless of their chromosomal locations.3 Dr. Simons concluded that alleles of a particular gene may be detected by amplifying and analyzing non-coding regions of the genome known to be linked to the coding region. He filed several patent applications relating to this discovery.4 The patent at issue in this litigation arose out of one of those applications.5
Merial and Bristol-Myers Squibb moved to dismiss under Rule 12(b)(6) for failure to state a claim, arguing the claims of the patent covered ineligible subject matter under § 101.6 The district court agreed, deciding claim 1 of the patent is "invalid for claiming a law of nature, which is patent-ineligible subject matter."7
On appeal, the parties stipulated that claim 1 of the patent is representative of claims 2-25 and 33-36 with respect to eligibility under § 101.8 The Federal Circuit analyzed claim 1 by following the two-step test for patent-eligibility set forth by the Supreme Court in Mayo and Alice: 1) Determine whether the claims at issue are directed to a patent-ineligible concept and, if so, 2) Examine the claim elements to see if it contains an inventive concept sufficient to transform the claimed abstract idea or law of nature into a patent-eligible application.9
Claim 1 Failed Step 1 of the Mayo/Alice Test
The Federal Circuit decided claim 1 failed the first step of the Mayo/Alice test because it was directed to patent-ineligible subject matter.10 The Federal Circuit explained claim 1 is "directed to the relationship between non-coding and coding sequences in linkage disequilibrium and the tendency of such non-coding DNA sequences to be representative of the linked coding sequences," that this is "indisputably a universal inherent feature of human DNA," and, thus, is an ineligible law of nature.11 The Federal Circuit further noted that the "product of the method of claim 1 is information about a patient's natural genetic makeup."12
The Federal Circuit also compared claim 1 to the claims invalidated in Mayo and Ariosa and found them to be "quite similar."13 It agreed with the district court that "just as the relationship at issue in Mayo was entirely a consequence of the body's natural processes for metabolizing thiopurine, so too is the correlation here (between variations in the non-coding regions and allele presence in the coding regions) a consequence of the naturally occurring linkages in the DNA sequence."14
In Ariosa, the Federal Circuit invalidated claims directed to a method of detecting, amplifying, and analyzing cell-free fetal DNA because they were "directed to matter that is naturally occurring" and "the inventors there did not purport to 'create[ ] or alter[ ] any of the genetic information encoded in the cffDNA.'"15
In this case, claim 1 "involves no creation or alteration of DNA sequences, and does not purport to identify novel detection techniques," and "broadly covers essentially all applications, via standard experimental techniques, of the law of linkage disequilibrium to the problem of detecting coding sequences of DNA."16 The similarity of claim 1 to the claims in Mayo and Ariosa "requires the conclusion that claim 1 is directed to a law of nature."17
Claim 1 Also Failed Step 2 of the Mayo/Alice Test:
Next, the Federal Circuit considered whether claim 1 "contains an inventive concept sufficient to transform the claimed abstract idea [or law of nature] into a patent-eligible application" and found it did not.18 The Federal Circuit looked at the "physical steps by which claim 1 implements the natural law of linkage disequilibrium" to determine whether they provide "more than 'well-understood, routine, conventional activity' already engaged in by those in the field."19
Claim 1 one involves two steps.20 The Federal Circuit said the first step (amplifying DNA with a primer pair) was "indisputably well known, routine, and conventional in the field of molecular biology" when the precursor application of the patent was filed.21 The Federal Circuit pointed out that Genetic Technologies argued "amplification was a technique readily practiced by those in skill at the time the application was filed" to overcome a § 112 rejection for lack of enablement.22
The Court also said the second step (analyzing amplified DNA) was "well known, routine, and conventional at the time the '179 patent was filed," and Genetic Technologies conceded this point.23 The Federal Circuit noted "[i]n this regard, claim 1 of the '179 patent is directly comparable to the claims invalidated in Ariosa."24 The Federal Circuit noted Genetic Technologies admitted "during prosecution of the '179 patent that it did not invent any new physical techniques."25
In sum, the Federal Circuit concluded that claim 1's physical steps "do not, individually or in combination, provide sufficient inventive concept to render claim 1 patent eligible."26
Genetic Technologies had argued that claim 1 "is inventive because it involves the analysis of man-made amplified DNA" that has an "altered methylation status" of naturally occurring DNA.27 The Federal Circuit, however, rejected this argument because claim 1 "is concerned primarily with the information contained in the genetic sequence" of DNA, "not with the specific chemical composition of a particular molecule."28 The sequence of the man-made DNA is "identical to that of naturally occurring DNA," which is distinguishable from "the cDNA held to be patent-eligible in Myriad."29
Genetic Technologies also argued that "no one had [] analyzed man-made non-coding DNA in order to detect a coding region allele" prior to patent filing, and this additional feature "provides sufficient inventive concept to pass step two of the Mayo/Alice test."30 Again, the Federal Circuit disagreed, saying the term "to detect the allele" is "a mental process step" that "does not create the requisite inventive concept" to be patent-eligible under § 101 "because it merely sets forth a routine comparison that can be performed by the human mind."31 The Federal Circuit added, "The novelty of looking to non-coding DNA to detect a coding region allele of interest resides in the novelty of the newly discovered natural law of linkage disequilibrium…and adds little more than a restatement of the natural law itself."32
What to Expect from § 101 Moving Forward
The Genetic Techs. opinion reinforces patent-eligibility challenges to claims drawn to data processing, analysis, or steps that could be carried out by the human mind. It continues the trend of finding patent-ineligibility of claims whose novelty lies in data analysis.
It also emphasizes the importance of drafting claims so that they are distinguished from prior art and cannot fall into the "mental step" trap described by the Federal Circuit in this case.
Ongoing uncertainty about subject matter eligibility might have a chilling effect on innovation and the transfer of technology among firms, universities, and research institutions. Indeed, David Kappos, former director of the U.S. Patent and Trademark Office, recently called for abolition of § 101, stating, "Europe doesn't have 101 and Asia doesn't have 101 and they seem to be doing just fine in constraining patent-eligible subject matter."33
We may be able to expect clarification from the Supreme Court in the near future, however, as Sequenom filed a petition for a writ of certiorari on March 21, 2016, asking the Court to clarify § 101 doctrine.34
Sequenom presented the question: "Whether a novel method is patent- eligible where: (1) a researcher is the first to discover a natural phenomenon; (2) that unique knowledge motivates him to apply a new combination of known techniques to that discovery; and (3) he thereby achieves a previously impossible result without preempting other uses of the discovery?"35
The USPTO also recently issued subject matter eligibility guidance on May 4, 2016, that provides hope for life sciences inventions.36 It is too early to tell whether this guidance improves the chances that life science claims will be allowed by examiners or upheld by courts.
In the meantime, courts may be more likely to find patent eligibility if claims recite the use of a new technology, rather than the application of existing and well-known techniques to newly discovered natural phenomena. Also, methods may be patent-eligible if they require modifying or creating a new naturally derived product (like cDNA in Myriad).


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Ofsted reference number and report
All early years education providers are required to be registered with Ofsted who regularly inspect us. The Ofsted website lists our conditions of registration and other information.
Our Ofsted URN is EY254847.
Please click here to find our latest report from our inspection in March 2016.
The Early Years' Foundation Stage
Until the end of the Reception year at school. and all during their time at preschool, your child will be working along the EYFS.
This covers all aspects of a young child's development and is a tool to allow preschools to plan suitable activities, monitor a child's progress against age specific targets, allows for the fact that each child develops at their own individual pace, enables us to spot if a child may be achieving ahead or below expectations in one or more areas and thereby seek advice or referals to other children's services.
The link to the EYFS curriculum can be found below:
For information on the overview of the EYFS and how the preschool implements it, please click here
For information on how the EYFS relates to the children's progress and what children are expected to achieve in each area for each age band, please click here.