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Utama Kitchen Pro Series: Guide to Meat Identification, Fabrication and Utilization
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Thomas Schneller IDENTIFICATION • FABRICATION • UTILIZATION MEAT Thomas Schneller IDENTIFICATION • FABRICATION • UTILIZATION MEAT Australia • Brazil • Japan • Korea • Mexico • Singapore • Spain • United Kingdom • United States KitchenPro Series: Guide to Meat Identification, Fabrication and Utilization Thomas Schneller Vice President, Career and Professional Editorial: Dave Garza Director of Learning Solutions: Sandy Clark © 2009 Delmar, Cengage Learning ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. No part of this work covered by the copyright herein may be reproduced, transmitted, stored, or used in any form or by any means graphic, electronic, or mechanical, including but not limited to photocopying, recording, scanning, digitizing, taping, Web distribution, information networks, or information storage and retrieval systems, except as permitted under Section 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without the prior written permission of the publisher. 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For your lifelong learning solutions, visit delmar.cengage.com The Culinary Institute of America President: Dr. Tim Ryan '77 Vice-President, Continuing Education: Mark Erickson '77 Director of Publishing: Nathalie Fischer Editorial Project Manager: Lisa Lahey '00 Editorial Assistant: Shelly Malgee '08 Photography: Keith Ferris, Photographer Ben Fink, Photographer Printed in the United States of America 1 2 3 4 5 XX 10 09 08 Visit our corporate website at www.cengage.com Notice to the Reader Publisher does not warrant or guarantee any of the products described herein or perform any independent analysis in connection with any of the product information contained herein. Publisher does not assume, and expressly disclaims, any obligation to obtain and include information other than that provided to it by the manufacturer. The reader is expressly warned to consider and adopt all safety precautions that might be indicated by the activities described herein and to avoid all potential hazards. By following the instructions contained herein, the reader willingly assumes all risks in connection with such instructions. The publisher makes no representations or warranties of any kind, including but not limited to, the warranties of fitness for particular purpose or merchantability, nor are any such representations implied with respect to the material set forth herein, and the publisher takes no responsibility with respect to such material. The publisher shall not be liable for any special, consequential, or exemplary damages resulting, in whole or part, from the readers' use of, or reliance upon, this material. Contents RECIPE CONTENTS ABOUT THE CIA vii viii AUTHOR BIOGRAPHY xi ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS INTRODUCTION 1 2 3 WHAT IS MEAT? xii xiv 2 The Butcher 3 What is Meat? 5 Quality Grading 9 Yield Grading 9 Basic Butchery: Tools and Equipment 10 Equipment Information and Assembly Procedures Meat Fabrication Techniques 15 Kosher and Halal Meats 19 Halal Meats 19 BEEF 22 Beef Breeds 24 Beef Evaluation and Grading 28 Certified and Branded Beef Products Beef Carcass Breakdown 32 Fabrication of Beef Cuts 47 VEAL 12 31 74 Veal Grading and Evaluation 76 Veal Classifications and Categories Yield Grading 77 Veal Carcass Breakdown 77 Veal Fabrication 90 76 v 4 5 6 7 8 9 PORK 112 Hog Breeds 115 Pork Evaluation and Grading 117 Pork Carcass Breakdown 117 Pork Fabrication 128 LAMB 144 Byproducts 147 Lamb Grading and Evaluation 150 Lamb Carcass Breakdown 153 Fabrication of Lamb Cuts 161 GAME 178 Game Meats 180 SAFETY AND SANITATION Basic Meat Food Safety 195 USDA Inspection 196 HACCP 196 Package and Storage 197 NUTRITION RECIPES 201 206 READINGS AND RESOURCES GLOSSARY 271 APPENDIX 278 INDEX 280 PHOTO CREDITS vi 194 TABLE OF CONTENT S 288 270 Recipe Contents Beef Recipes 209 211 Beef Matambre Beef Fajitas 213 Ancho Rubbed Roasted Beef Chuck Eye Roll 215 Beef Churrasco 217 German Beef Roulade 221 Beef Satay Skewers 225 Beef Carbonnade 227 Southern California Beef Tri-Tip Sandwich Veal Recipes 231 Braised Veal Short Ribs 235 Stuffed Breast of Veal Grilled Veal Flank Steak Adobo Style 237 Pork Recipes Brown Pork Stock 238 239 Fresh Ham Steamship Roast Barbeque Pulled Pork 241 Applejack Cured Braised Pork Belly Bulk Breakfast Sausage Pinchos Morunos Pancetta 243 245 249 251 Lamb Recipes Syrah Braised Lamb Shoulder Moroccan-Style Lamb Stew 253 257 Spicy Jerked Lamb Riblets with Rum Barbecue Sauce 261 Offal Recipes Smoked Beef Tongue Reuben Sandwich 265 Veal Sweetbreads Sautéed with Wild Mushrooms 267 vii ABOUT THE CIA THE WORLD'S PREMIER CULINARY COLLEGE The Culinary Institute of America (CIA) is the recognized leader in culinary education for undergraduate students, foodservice and hospitality professionals, and food enthusiasts. The college awards bachelor's and associate degrees, as well as certificates and continuing education units, and is accredited by the prestigious Middle States Commission on Higher Education. Founded in 1946 in downtown New Haven, CT to provide culinary training for World War II veterans, the college moved to its present location in Hyde Park, NY in 1972. In 1995, the CIA added a branch campus in the heart of California's Napa Valley—The Culinary Institute of America at Greystone. The CIA continued to grow, and in 2008, established a second branch campus, this time in San Antonio, TX. That same year, the CIA at Astor Center opened in New York City. From its humble beginnings more than 60 years ago with just 50 students, the CIA today enrolls more than 2,700 students in its degree programs, approximately 3,000 in its programs for foodservice and hospitality industry professionals, and more than 4,500 in its courses for food enthusiasts. LEADING THE WAY Throughout its history, The Culinary Institute of America has played a pivotal role in shaping the future of foodservice and hospitality. This is due in large part to the caliber of people who make up the CIA community—its faculty, staff, students, and alumni—and their passion for the culinary arts and dedication to the advancement of the profession. Headed by the visionary leadership of President Tim Ryan '77, the CIA education team has at its core the largest concentration of American Culinary Federation-Certified Master Chefs (including Dr. Ryan) of any college. The Culinary Institute of America faculty, more than 130 members strong, brings a vast breadth and depth of foodservice industry experience and insight to the CIA kitchens, classrooms, and research facilities. They've worked in some of the world's finest establishments, earned industry awards and professional certifications, and emerged victorious from countless international culinary competitions. And they continue to make their mark on the industry, through the students they teach, books they author, and leadership initiatives they champion. The influence of the CIA in the food world can also be attributed to the efforts and achievements of our more than 37,000 successful alumni. Our graduates are leaders in virtually every segment of the industry and bring the professionalism and commitment to excellence they learned at the CIA to bear in everything they do. viii UNPARALLELED EDUCATION DEGREE PROGRAMS The CIA's bachelor's and associate degree programs in culinary arts and baking and pastry arts feature more than 1,300 hours of hands-on learning in the college's kitchens, bakeshops, and student-staffed restaurants along with an 18-week externship at one of more than 1,200 top restaurant, hotel, and resort locations around the world. The bachelor's degree programs also include a broad range of liberal arts and business management courses to prepare students for future leadership positions. CERTIFICATE PROGRAMS The college's certificate programs in culinary arts and baking and pastry arts are designed both for students interested in an entry-level position in the food world and those already working in the foodservice industry who want to advance their careers. A third offering, the Accelerated Culinary Arts Certificate Program (ACAP), provides graduates of baccalaureate programs in hospitality management, food science, nutrition, and closely related fields with a solid foundation in the culinary arts and the career advancement opportunities that go along with it. PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT PROGRAMS AND INDUSTRY SERVICES The CIA offers food and wine professionals a variety of programs to help them keep their skills sharp and stay abreast of industry trends. Courses in cooking, baking, pastry, wine, and management are complemented by stimulating conferences and seminars, online culinary R&D courses, and multimedia training materials. Industry professionals can also deepen their knowledge and earn valuable ProChef ® and professional wine certification credentials at several levels of proficiency. The college's Industry Solutions Group, headed by a seasoned team of Certified Master Chefs, offers foodservice businesses a rich menu of custom programs and consulting services in areas such as R&D, flavor exploration, menu development, and health and wellness. FOOD ENTHUSIAST PROGRAMS Food enthusiasts can get a taste of the CIA educational experience during the college's popular Boot Camp intensives in Hyde Park, as well as demonstration and hands-on courses at the new CIA at Astor Center in New York City. At the Greystone campus, CIA Sophisticated Palate™ programs feature hands-on instruction and exclusive, behind-the-scenes excursions to Napa Valley growers and purveyors. CIA LOCATIONS MAIN CAMPUS—HYDE PARK, NY Bachelor's and associate degree programs, professional development programs, food enthusiast programs The CIA's main campus in New York's scenic Hudson River Valley offers everything an aspiring or professional culinarian could want. Students benefit from truly exceptional ABOUT THE CIA ix facilities that include 41 professionally equipped kitchens and bakeshops; five awardwinning, student-staffed restaurants; culinary demonstration theaters; a dedicated wine lecture hall; a center for the study of Italian food and wine; a nutrition center; a 79,000-volume library; and a storeroom filled to brimming with the finest ingredients, including many sourced from the bounty of the Hudson Valley. THE CIA AT GREYSTONE—ST. HELENA, CA Associate degree program, professional development programs, certificate programs, food enthusiast programs Rich with legendary vineyards and renowned restaurants, California's Napa Valley offers students a truly inspiring culinary learning environment. At the center of it all is the CIA at Greystone—a campus like no other, with dedicated centers for flavor development, professional wine studies, and menu research and development; a 15,000-square-foot teaching kitchen space; demonstration theaters; and the Ivy Award-winning Wine Spectator Greystone Restaurant. THE CIA, SAN ANTONIO—SAN ANTONIO, TX Certificate program, professional development programs A new education and research initiative for the college, the CIA, San Antonio is located on the site of the former Pearl Brewery and features a newly renovated 5,500square-foot facility equipped with a state-of-the-art teaching kitchen. Plans for the 22-acre site include transforming it into an urban village complete with restaurants, shops, art galleries, an open-air mercado, an events facility, and expanded CIA facilities, including a demonstration theater and skills kitchen. THE CIA AT ASTOR CENTER—NEW YORK, NY Professional development programs, food enthusiast programs The CIA's newest educational venue is located in the NoHo section of New York's Greenwich Village, convenient for foodservice professionals and foodies alike. At The Culinary Institute of America at Astor Center, students enjoy courses on some of the most popular and important topics in food and wine today, in brand-new facilities that include a 36-seat, state-of-the-art demonstration theater; a professional teaching kitchen for 16 students; and a multipurpose event space. x ABOUT THE CIA AUTHOR BIOGRAPHY Chef Schneller started working with meat at the age of 14 in his family's business. He is by all definitions of the word a "butcher". With over 30 years of meat cutting experience and having taught the meat class at the acclaimed Culinary Institute of America for the past 10 years, Chef Schneller brings a high level of understanding to this book. Chef Schneller also owned and operated his own restaurant and catering business for 11 years, has worked in a variety of restaurant positions including back and front of the house and has an understanding of foodservice. As Chef Schneller continues teaching at the Institute, he is focused on acquiring more knowledge in all aspects of the meat industry. xi ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS When I was little, my dad and I would go to our family's butcher shop on Sunday mornings. We would check the cases and coolers, pick up a bunch of sliced cold cuts, and head over to the local radio station, where he would star in his own show. He would play music, make ads for his shop, and we would enjoy a fine sandwich with mustard. We then would stop by Siller Beef Company and pick out meat from their rails to be delivered to the shop Monday morning. My father was a butcher, but also an entrepreneur and a gourmet. I owe my butchering skill, my knowledge of quality meat, many of my cooking skills, and my general love of food to him. Thanks, Dad! Over the years, I have experimented with many meat recipes and I would like to thank my wife, Tricia, and my family for always being honest. "What is it?" is a question worth asking sometimes. Upon coming to The Culinary Institute of America, I embarked on a different journey: Taking my skill and honing it to a higher degree while passing on as much information to my students as possible. The CIA has allowed me to take my dream of publishing a book that keeps this art and craft alive. I would like to thank all of my fellow instructors who inspire me in so many ways, especially Hans Sebald, my co-instructor in the meat class. He is a master butcher and a gentleman. I would like to thank the CIA's president, Tim Ryan, for allowing us to do great things and facilitating an artisan environment, encouraging creativity and experimentation. There are many people who helped in the making of this book. My editorial assistant, Shannon Eagan, worked tirelessly on this publication and never once complained about bad jokes and butcher humor. Thanks also to Lisa Lahey for taking a concept and letting it bloom. Thanks goes to the two photographers, my friend and neighbor, Ben Fink, and the CIA photographer, Keith Ferris. Meat is not photogenic, but they accurately depict things that are not easily done. The CIA meat storeroom staff, especially Jason Lafalce, contributed by procuring the meats and allowing me to prep them. All of the photo items were kept cold and then used throughout the CIA kitchens. My teaching assistant during the writing was Carlos Villaneuva, who helped with many of the ideas for photos and props. (The lamb prosciutto was his!) Thanks, Carlos. Former students helped with the cooking of the recipes, which I would have taken forever to produce alone. Thanks to Adam Cobb, Micheal Igdaloff, Luis Martinez, and Andrea Roshore, who also helped with photos. xii I would also like to thank all of the many students that have inspired me over the years. So many great students at the CIA offer ideas and crave the extra knowledge that drives me each day. Butchery may be a lost art for some, but not for those who enter my door. Thomas K. Schneller ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS xiii INTRODUCTION The craft of the butcher dates back to pre-historic times. The term "hunter-gatherer" refers to the earliest humans who separated themselves from the animal world. Through history the butcher was an integral part of many societies. The local butcher was a respected member of the community, a craftsman and artisan. The butcher was a valuable part of the French kitchen brigade system and was responsible for preparing all portions, stocks, roasts, and foundation sauces. Today we find consumers buying more meat products than ever before and knowing less about where their meat is coming from or how it is fabricated. This book is a comprehensive guide for anyone interested in understanding the craft of butchery for the kitchen. Valuable information is presented with clear photos for identifying most meat cuts commonly available to a foodservice operation. Step by step instruction is offered for fabricating a large variety of portion cuts and roasts. Valuable yield information and formulas are included to ensure a proper profit margin. Information on nutritional values in actual portion sizes as opposed to unrealistic small portions gives the user a tool to address calorie counts. Quality grading and information on USDA certified products is included as well as background on animal breeds and how they relate to quality. In today's meat industry it is often suggested to buy pre-portioned sections to save on labor costs. So why learn the basics? A chef or culinarian that desires to fabricate unique items or understand their options needs a guide that can truly help to decide which way to buy. Also, as the niche market sector of the meat industry grows, more information on fabricating large cuts is necessary in many cases. Recipes included are designed for the underutilized meat cuts and usable trim from other fabrications to increase profit and diversity. Purchasing and packaging information is included to enable any chef, purchasing agent, or buyer to better connect with their purveyor. This book uses standards laid out by the North American Meat Processors Association and can be used to enhance the use of their meat buyer's guide. Beyond a simple technical textbook there are also background and history segments to enable a deeper understanding of the world of meat. xiv This page intentionally left blank 1 WHAT IS MEAT? Research tells us that the relatives of Homo sapiens scavenged for animal proteins millions of years ago. Earlier hominids hunted eggs and possibly small animals, but were primarily vegetarians. As humans evolved, their ability to hunt with skill allowed them to kill larger animals for meat, tools, and clothing. Techniques for fabricating and preserving meat improved along with hunting skills. As civilizations evolved, so did the artisans of those civilizations. Humans during the late Paleolithic period, around 10,000 to 25,000 years ago, hunted a wide variety of large animals. They had considerable knowledge of all the animals' parts and had a use for many byproducts, such as bones, sinews, hides, and more. Rendering fat for fuel was common and allowed for survival during cold periods and ice ages. Cave drawings found from this period FI G U R E 1.1 A prehistoric cave painting of cattle. show a variety of large mammals, such as bison, ibex, reindeer, aurochs (early ancestors of oxen), and mammoths. THE BUTCHER A transition to agriculture occurred around 10,000 years ago. With the advent of agriculture, animals were domesticated rather than hunted and the role of the butcher became necessary to properly fabricate animals into meat that society could use. The craftsman class in early human societies included those who knew the skills to harvest meat from animals. Civilizations grew from small villages and camps to larger centers and cities. Each 3 area developed its own food culture and ways in which it cut and used meats. During the medieval period in Europe, guild systems regulated trade and guaranteed that skills were effectively passed on through generations. The butcher would start as an apprentice at around ten or twelve years of age and, after a few years, became a journeyman. Then, if his or her skill level showed a complete understanding of the craft, a butcher would become a "master." The masters held great political power in a village or city-state and would help regulate trade with the local farmers. For many years, meat fabrication was done by hand. The advent of higherquality metals, knives, and tools allowed the butcher to improve his craft. With the coming of the Industrial Revolution in the mid-nineteenth century, meat processing changed. Rather than a small local butcher working with the farmer on a oneto-one basis, modern transportation allowed for meat carcasses to be transported over great distances. By the 1900s, trainloads of animals could be brought to larger packing houses of inner cities. Butchers no longer had to do the entire harvest from slaughter to final product. Assembly-line type fabrication took hold. Also at this time, farming technologies changed. Farmers could produce more plant food, not only for human consumption, but also for their farm animals. This feeding of animals led to higher-quality products. The use of tractors and farm machinery meant that large animals were no longer needed to pull plows, clear land, or perform any other arduous task they were previously bred for. Now, breeders could concentrate on meat production. Universities developed animal science programs devoted to the "meat breed," whether it was beef, pork, chicken, or lamb. The growth of the meat industry changed the way meat was fabricated. No longer did a single butcher need to know the entire process of taking the animal from the farmer to the portioned cuts for customers. The practice of having many butchers, each with a specialized skill set, increased the volume of what could be done. Today, modern meat-processing plants fabricate cuts in a huge variety of sizes, quality ranges, trim levels, and styles. This book will help the reader understand the options available to buyers. Having good fabrication skills enables the meat buyer to fully understand the most profitable way to buy. Though it is true that it takes years of butchering experience to become a true master, and that a book cannot possibly teach all the skills necessary, it is also true that having a basic understanding of meat cuts and the options available can directly affect the way you buy. 4 CHAPTER 1 • WHAT IS MEAT? WHAT IS MEAT? A basic definition of meat is "the parts of animals fit for human consumption," This broad definition refers to both the edible carcass and offal. The definition of meat varies from species to species. For example, the hide is removed from beef, veal, and lamb, but for pork and poultry, it is considered part of the meat. The carcass includes the following components: lean muscle tissues, bones, fats, connective tissues, and offal. Offal is not actually part of the carcass, it is the edible byproducts produced in creating the carcass. Most people consider meat as the steak, roast, or chop, but when considering the whole carcass, we need to consider anatomy. When alive, animals use their muscles to do specific tasks. Certain muscles are used for locomotion and movement. Cattle spend a good portion of their time standing, so they develop thick support muscles. When considering which meat to use for cooking, we must consider the use of the muscle while the animal was alive. Muscle sections that are used more frequently or perform arduous tasks will be tougher than more sedentary muscle groups. Muscles that are located Motion and Sedentary muscle groups along the back are used less freSedentary- along back Sedentary quently than muscles that are at the extremities. Certain deep muscles, Motion- Located on when isolated and trimmed, have the front, rear and lower sections of been found to be extremely tender. carcass. These muscles may be too small or difficult to fabricate, so may not be Motion considered marketable. The age and Motion method of raising the animal also determine a level of tenderness. Thin sections What may be considered a quality cut in one species can be quite tough F IGUR E 1.2 in another. MUSCLE FIBERS There are two basic types of muscle fibers: smooth and skeletal. Smooth muscles are found in the digestive and circulatory systems and are primarily involuntary muscles. These are generally found in offal products, such as tripe. Skeletal muscles are the more typical meat muscles. They attach to bone to allow the animal to move and perform specific tasks. Skeletal muscles are formed from long, slender muscle cells that form bundles. Muscle bundles are tied together with springlike myofibrils, which are able to expand and contract in movement. A collagen-protein layer, called perimysium, surrounds these bundles. Acting like a layer of plastic wrap, the perimysium surrounds the bundles. The thicker the perimysium is, the tougher the muscle. The entire larger muscle is enclosed with a layer called the epimysium. Layers become thicker and tougher as the animal matures. WHAT IS MEAT? 5 Muscle fibers are aligned in a directional pattern called the grain. When cutting meats, it is important to understand the direction of the grain so as to cut across it to ensure the most tender surface possible. Certain cuts that have an obvious grain can be extremely tough if the cut is made with the grain, as opposed to across it. The color of muscle fibers depends on the type of muscle and its species. Muscles that receive their energy directly from the bloodstream will be redder in color. The red pigment is due FI G U R E 1.3 A beef flank steak with obvious to myoglobin, a protein that holds oxygen to muscle grain. the muscle. Beef, lamb, and venison all have a darker red meat due to the large amount of myoglobin present. Pork, veal, and various types of poultry are a light color because much of the energy for their muscles is achieved anaerobically. Myoglobin will give meats different color hues depending on length of exposure to oxygen. When meat cuts are in an anaerobic state, such as in a vacuum bag, the myoglobin is a dull purplish red. Once cuts are exposed to oxygen, they "bloom" and become a bright red. This is termed oxymyoglobin. After being exposed to oxygen for some time, the oxymyoglobin converts to metmyoglobin and turns a brown or gray color. This is usually an indication that the meat is spoiling. FATS Different species have different types of lipid combinations. The fat from a hog is chemically different from that of beef, as is that of lamb. The taste and melting points of different fats can reflect different uses in the kitchen. Pork fat is considered more palatable than beef or lamb fat. Lamb fat is very strong in flavor and has a different mouth feel. This is due to the levels of saturated fats, such as stearic or palmitic fatty acids. The diet of the animal will also affect the flavor of the fat and therefore the taste of the overall meat. Grass-fed or foraged animals will tend to have a stronger or more pronounced flavor than grain-fed animals. Diet also alters the levels of Omega-3 and Omega-6 fatty acids. For example, grass-fed animals will have a higher Omega-3 count. Grain fed animals have an imbalance of Omega 6 to Omega 3 ratio, with Omega 6 being higher. It is important to have a balance of Omega 3 and 6 in the diet. There are four basic categories used when discussing fat on meat carcasses. 1. Subcutaneous Fat: Fat found directly under the hide or skin of the animal. It is very dense and good for barding or larding. Pork fatback is an example of subcutaneous fat. 6 CHAPTER 1 • WHAT IS MEAT? FIGURE 1.4a Subcutaneous or exterior fat. 2. Lumbar or Kidney Fat: Fat found inside the carcass cavity surrounding the kidney and pelvic region. This fat is very hard and crumbly with little moisture, which makes it very good for rendering and frying. 3. Intermuscular Fat: Fat that is found between muscle groups. It is used to help guide the butcher between muscle cuts. 4. Intramuscular Fat: This is also known as marbling. Marbling is fat found within the lean muscle tissues, between muscle bundles. When well-marbled meat is cooked, the fat melts, infusing the cut with flavor and leaving a weakened muscle fiber, which translates into tenderness. Marbling is considered a main indicator of quality. (See Figs 1.4a through 1.4c.) FIG URE 1.4b Lumbar or kidney fat. CONNECTIVE TISSUES The most common connective protein in meat is collagen. Collagen is the basic filament that holds together muscle fibers. It is found throughout the carcass and attaches muscle to muscle. Collagen fibers can be described as white, silver, or clear, depending on their thickness or density. Large collagen tendons appear as white, thin bands on muscles or appear silver between muscles; the perimysium covering surrounding tiny muscle bundles is practically clear. FIG U RE 1.4c Intermuscular fat vs. intramuscular or marbling fat. Collagen directly relates to the toughness of a cut of meat. Muscles that are load bearing or are required to do heavy lifting have thicker collagen bands and coarse muscle fibers. If applying a rapid, dry cooking method to these types of motion muscles, the meat will be very tough. A piece of meat from a less-active area will have a much finer fiber and less collagen support material, and will be tender. Collagen breaks down during a slow, moist cooking application. The fibers unravel and fall apart, dissolving into the liquid. Tougher muscles will become extremely tender if allowed the proper time and heat to do so. Collagen-laden muscles tend to have much more flavor than fine-fibered, tender cuts. When broken down in the sauce of a dish, collagen gives a texture or smoothness to that sauce. In culinary terms, this texture is part of what might be called savory, or umami, even though other factors also contribute to this. Another connective tissue frequently found on meat cuts is the material that connects muscle to bone. This substance, known as periosteum, or bone sheath, is actually part of the bone covering that is pulled away when meat is boned out. On younger animal carcasses, which is the case for most of the meat items we see today, the bones are not ossified or fully hardened. This sheath ends up on the meat item. It can be very tough WHAT IS MEAT? 7 and does not break down as readily as collagen does. It should be removed, even on moist-cooked meats, unless the meat is cooked for an extremely long time. Bone connectives look similar to collagen but are pinkish in color and can be rough to the touch. Elastin, another common connective tissue, is found along the back and into the neck of the carcass. It is yellowish and has an elastic feel. It is thick and tough, but is found close to some prized sedentary muscle cuts, so it is necessary to remove it as well. BONES Although we do not actually eat the hardened bones of animals, they are an integral part of what is considered meat. Bones end up on the plate as part of a large variety of cuts. The bone-in steak or chop, the barbecued or roasted chicken, spare ribs, and the classic crown roast would not be possible without leaving the bones attached. Bones hold many connective tissues, which dissolve into water when producing stock. These stocks or broths can be reduced to make rich, smooth sauces. The fatty rich marrow found in certain bones is used in some classic dishes. In the fabrication of meat, bones play an important role for the butcher. Bones are used to identify specific locations on the carcass to make a cut without damaging muscles. Bones act as a roadmap for carcass breakdown. Every typical four-legged mammal used for meat has the same basic bone and muscle structure. Of course, they are not all divided the same, but there are always certain similarities. When deciding to fabricate a cut of meat, whether a full carcass or an individual cut, it is important to understand the bone structure. OFFAL Offal can best be described as the edible byproducts of a meat carcass. Examples would be organ meats such as liver, kidney, heart, brain, tripe, certain glands, and intestinal tracts. In addition, the cheeks, tail, and tongue are part of offal. In many cultures, offal is considered a delicacy. Organ meats, such as the liver and kidneys, are high in iron, which translates into a rich flavor. The tail has some meat and a lot of collagen and is typically used for rich braises. Offal is generally inexpensive but requires some skill to cook properly. Organ meats are composed of fibers that are different from those of lean muscle. Membranes, blood vessels, and connectives need to be removed on livers and kidneys. Some offal is considered the epitome of high cuisine. An example would be the fattened duck or goose liver known as foie gras. This meat has a consistency that resembles butter and has a rich flavor. Other delicacies would be the sweetbread, or thymus gland, of veal. When properly prepared, this soft-structured gland can be eaten with a fork. This type of offal is an exception to the "inexpensive" nature of offal. They are in high demand and warrant a high cost. Organ meats tend to be highly perishable and therefore must be used fresh, within a week of slaughter, or purchased frozen. Be sure to keep frozen items below 328 and 248F/08 and 2188C to ensure the formation of small ice crystals and minimize damage. 8 CHAPTER 1 • WHAT IS MEAT? QUALITY GRADING The idea of grading meat for its palatability, or tenderness and taste, has been going on for hundreds of years. Cattle buyers and butchers judged animals for their quality and paid accordingly. The size and age of the animals were assessed and breeds were looked at to determine quality. The breeding of animals for meat quality encouraged importation of animals that improved the quality of the herds. The United States Department of Agriculture [USDA] began grading beef for quality in 1927. This created standards that established criteria that farmers and processors could try to achieve. Grading for other species followed and modifications to the grading system have been implemented over the decades. The grades helped processors assign value to the meats and allowed the purchaser consistency in product. No longer was an expert butcher required to select meats; a purchaser could simply request a grade and receive a consistent product. The process of USDA-quality grading is separate from inspection. Grading is not a mandatory function. Unlike inspection, which is paid for by taxpayers, the processor pays for quality grading. What this implies is that, normally, only the higher-grade meats sold for a premium will be quality graded, while lesser meats—meats usually used for processed items—will go ungraded. Many processors have in-house graders and quality assessment teams that perform tasks similar to the USDA, but only the USDA graders can use their specific USDA stamps. Specific grading criteria for beef, veal, and pork are included in this book in the chapter for that meat. YIELD GRADING When an animal is slaughtered, a certain amount of the animal is not usable as meat. For example, for beef, 53 to 58 percent is dressed carcass, 14 to 20 percent is edible offal, and 36 to 33 percent is inedible. These amounts may vary on the type of animal and preslaughter conditions, but the fact remains that there is a substantial loss during slaughter and evisceration. On the dressed carcass, there may be substantial further loss due to fat content. PERCENTAGE OF CLOSELY A fed, or fattened, beef animal accumulates extra YIELD GRADE TRIMMED RETAIL PRODUCT fat, which reduces the overall yield of the carcass. The USDA has established a yield-grading system that defines criteria for carcasses. This system defines the cutability, the amount of usable meat, in a carcass. It takes into account fat-to-lean ratios and meat-to-bone, or conformation, ratios. The weight and size of the carcass is assessed and a number grade is assigned. 1 75.5% 2 71.5% 3 67.5% 4 64.9% Beef and lamb are primarily the only meats that are yield graded. Veal does not have enough fat to degrade its value and pork has a grade system that incorporates yield with its quality grade. 5 60.8% FIG URE 1.5 USDA yield-grade chart. YIELD GRADING 9 BASIC BUTCHERY: TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT In ancient times, stone tools were used to eviscerate an animal and then divide it into its primal cuts. As humans evolved, they developed metal tools to do these tasks. Today, we find tools in the meat industry that enable tasks to be done rapidly and with minimal waste. The list of equipment available and all of their intended uses could fill this book alone; therefore, only the more basic equipment used for basic butchery is included. KNIVES What knives do you need to fabricate meat? There are many available knives and some of them are for specific cutting techniques. Meat fabrication knives: 1. Boning Knife: Available in lengths from five to six inches and a variety of flexes, from completely stiff to very flexible. For general meat cutting, a semi-flexible, six-inch boning knife will perform well. There are strait and angled blades available. The handle of a boning knife needs to fit the user's hand properly and some texture on the handle may be helpful to reduce slippage. Different boning knives are suggested for a variety of tasks; for instance, boning a pork loin requires a knife with some flex to be able to flatten out while boning to increase the surface area covered. If boning a strait-line bone, such as a shank or femur, a non-flexible or stiff boning knife will be more stable. 2. Scimitar: Available in lengths from ten to sixteen inches. This non-flexing knife is curved to allow for smooth trimming of large meat cuts and portion cutting of steaks, cutlets, stew, or cubes. Due to its curved edge, it is not typically used for mincing or chopping. 3. Chef's Knife: A non-flexible, eightto ten-inch knife that can be used for trimming large cuts, portion cutting, mincing, and chopping. However, it can be a little cumbersome due to its width. 4. Slicer: A twelve-inch knife that is available in flexible, semi-flexible, or stiff models. It is thinner than the chef's knife and, unlike the scimitar, has a straight edge. It is good for trimming large cuts and portion cutting. 5. Clam Knife: A Clam knife may come in handy when Frenching racks of lamb or veal. It is used to scrape the membranes off the bones. 10 CHAPTER 1 • WHAT IS MEAT? FIG URE 1.6 Top row, from left to right: Clam knife; fiveinch curved, flexible boning knife; six-inch curved, flexible boning knife; six-inch stiff boning knife; ten-inch chef's knife; ten-inch scimitar; twelve-inch slicer; cleaver; Bottom row: 25-inch handsaw. SHARPENING STEEL AND STONES Sharpening and honing your knife will make it more accurate and reduce the amount of mis-cuts and injuries. A sharp knife is easily maintained with the proper stone and steel. Stones come in various degrees of grit. The higher the grit number, the finer the stone. A typical coarse grit for knives would be 600 and a fine grit 1000. Usually, a knife would be sharpened on the coarse grit first and finished on the fine grit to polish the edge. Some knives made from very hard steel can be sharpened with a higher grit, such as 3000 to 6000. A softer, inexpensive knife would not be able to reap the rewards of these very fine grits. Some stones are intended for use with mineral or honing oil and others are used with water. Never sharpen a knife on a dry stone. Metal flakes will build up in the stone and render it ineffective. FIG U RE 1.7 From top to bottom: Sharpening stone, sharpening or diamond steel, steel. A sharpening steel is used to hone or correct the knife's edge by sliding the edge of the knife down each side of the steel. It is not a replacement for the stone, and if an edge is lost, it needs to be sharpened, not steeled. MEAT CLEAVER Cleavers are available in a variety of weights and sizes. A meat cleaver is used primarily for cutting chops and needs to be relatively heavy to break through chine bones. A meat cleaver can only be used on a butcher block so as not to damage other cutting boards. The butcher block has a natural grain that absorbs the shock of the cleaver. A small cleaver may be used to help fabricate poultry or cooked bone-in roasts. HANDSAW Cutting through bone structure can be a challenge and demands nearly as much accuracy as a knife. A quality handsaw can greatly increase the options available to the butcher. Be sure the saw is intended for food use. BAND SAW A band saw, although expensive, enables the fabrication of an enormous variety of cuts, such as bone-in steaks, chops, various bone-in roasts, osso buco, stews, and bones for soup. Extreme caution must be used when operating a band saw. Proper cleaning and maintenance is necessary. MEAT GRINDER A grinder has a wide range of uses, including in-house burgers, sausages, and forcemeats. Meat grinders are available in a variety of sizes and power ranges. However, rather than buy a separate machine, grinding attachments for other kitchen machinery, such as a mixer or chopper, are an inexpensive alternative. Larger tabletop or floor models offer more horsepower and decrease time required to grind larger quantities. FIG UR E 1.8 Diagram of a band saw. Proper procedures include chilling grinder parts and meat. BASIC BUTCHERY: TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT 11 EQUIPMENT INFORMATION AND ASSEMBLY PROCEDURES STEPS FOR MEAT GRINDER ASSEMBLY (READ FROM RIGHT TO LEFT) 1. Place grinder body on mixer, making sure that the pin fits in the hole on the mixer, tighten finger screw (mixer is not illustrated). 2. Place the worm into the grinder body, making sure that the squared end of the worm fits into the squared hole in the mixer. 3. Place the knife on the thin shaft of the worm, making sure that the flat side faces out. 4. Place the grinder plate on the thin shaft of the worm, line up the pin slot with the pin in the grinder body. 5. Place the face plate on the grinder body, hold the plate with your finger so it does not move, tighten the face plate. 6. Add the feeder tray and grinder is ready for use (feeder tray is not illustrated). Place feeder tray in feeder tube Meat Grinder Assembly 5. 4. 3. 1. 2. Note: some grinder plates have a lip around the center hole Pin Pin Pin Slot Face Plate Grinder Plate Knife F IGU RE 1.9a 12 CHAPTER 1 • WHAT IS MEAT? Worm Meat grinder assembly. Body Chilled Meat Cubes All Grinder Parts Must Be Chilled Ground Meat Extruding Cleanly from Grinder Die Chilled Bowl F IGURE 1.9b Proper grinding procedure. EQUIPMENT INFORMATION AND ASSEMBLY PROCEDURES 13 GRINDER PLATE SIZE Small 1/8" holes Large 3/8" holes Medium 1/4" holes F IGUR E 1.9c Grinder plate sizes. PROPER GRINDING PROCEDURES 1. Chill all meat and grinder parts. 2. Set up grinder (see assembly of grinder head). 3. Pass meat through grinder (meat should extrude easily). 4. Rechill meat and grinder. 5. Grind second time. Note: If meat is not passing through grinder easily, check that grinder parts are assembled correctly. Hand feed meat into feed tube, use a tamper only when necessary. 14 CHAPTER 1 • WHAT IS MEAT? HAND HOOK This simple tool is used instead of using a bare or gloved hand. It allows a good grip on the meat and the ability to create tension between cuts. It can be used for lifting or moving larger pieces of meat. However, if used incorrectly, the hook can damage the meat. It can be dangerous and should always be used with caution. SAFETY GLOVES AND EQUIPMENT Many types of safety gloves are available that can reduce injuries. Kevlar is a typical glove material because it is lightweight, flexible, and washable. Stainless steel mesh guards and aprons may be useful for large-scale cutting. MEAT FABRICATION TECHNIQUES TRIMMING What is meant by the term trimming? It could imply removing excess fat off the outside of a meat item. It may mean removing heavy silverskin or collagen bands that surround meat cuts. Some meat cuts may have bone connective tissues, which can be extremely tough and should always be trimmed. Another form of trimming is to shape a piece of meat by trimming off a small section to improve the plate presentation. Whatever the form of trimming, the fabricator needs to understand what the outcome should be. FIG URE 1.10 Basic trimming technique. BONING Boning a meat item can be intimidating and complicated. Understanding the basic bone structure of the meat enables the cutter to fabricate without guessing where the bones are located. The basic bone structure of beef, veal, lamb, pork, and many game meats is basically the same. Certain structures, such as those from the shank, are basic and simple to bone, whereas the bones from the pelvic region, neck, and spine can be difficult. FIG U RE 1.11 Basic boning technique. MEAT FABRICATION TECHNIQUES 15 PORTION CUTTING Different portions require different techniques. Steaks and medallions should be cut straight up and down, whereas cutlets are often cut on a bias. When portion cutting, be sure to cut across the grain to maximize tenderness. Trim levels can vary with the desired outcome. Leaving some fat is desired on a grilling steak item, whereas a cutlet piece should be completely denuded before cutting. FI GUR E 1.12a Portion cutting cutlet. FIG URE 1.12b Portion cutting steak. BAND SAW A band saw may not be standard equipment for most kitchens, but it is found in restaurants that fabricate a large number of steaks or chops. Some restaurants dry age their beef cuts and a saw would be required to portion those cuts. It allows a kitchen to change the way things are ordered, where before, many cuts would have to be ordered as portion cuts. With a band saw, the kitchen can custom-cut all the portions. Today, we find small, table-size saws that may make it practical for a restaurant to own a band saw. In any case, the band saw is a very dangerous piece of equipment and should always be used with caution. When using it, be FIG U RE 1.13 Cutting veal shank with a band saw. sure there are no distractions and understand the bone structure of the piece being cut. Be sure the blade is tightened correctly, assembled accurately, and is sharp. There are guards that can be used and Kevlar hand protection to ensure safety. 16 CHAPTER 1 • WHAT IS MEAT? GRINDING Unlike a food processor, the grinder gives meat a unique texture. A restaurant may use the grinder to make custom sausages, unique stuffings, and forcemeats, or simply grind meat fresh for a quality burger. Grinding helps utilize any usable trim that occurs when fabricating larger cuts, thereby increasing profitability. When deciding to grind meat for a burger, sausage, or forcemeat, a proper step-bystep process should be followed. 1. First, decide on the proper fat-to-lean ratio for the grind. A sausage will typically have a ratio of seventy percent lean to thirty percent fat while a burger is generally eighty percent lean to twenty percent fat. However, recipes and fat levels can be customized, depending on the desired outcome. 2. Cut meat into a manageable size for the grinder. If using a small attachment to a mixer, then the pieces should be cut into one to two-inch cubes. 3. Chill all the parts of the grinder and the meat to 328F. If the meat or machine parts are warm, the fat may separate from the lean tissue and cause an off–texture. 4. Assemble the machine with the knife facing flat against the die and securing with the faceplate, making sure everything is snug. 5. Push meat through the grinder at a rapid pace and do not allow the grinder to run without a steady flow of meat, for it will heat up rapidly. Do not overfill the grinder, which can slow the process. Some processes may require a progressive grind or running the meat through multiple times and changing the die to progressively smaller holes between each grind. This ensures a fat to lean mix and a good texture for certain forcemeats. 6. Clean the grinder immediately after using, and be sure that there is no cross contamination. ENHANCING AND TENDERIZING The term enhanced meat generally means that the meat has been injected with a solution to increase moisture content. This can be done by simply brining the meat or using an injector. The typical solution for commercially enhanced product would contain water, salt and sodium phosphate. The amount of added ingredients must be placed on the meat packaging. Purveyors often refer to enhanced products as "pumped." Tenderizing meats can be done either mechanically or chemically. A typical mechanical tenderizer would be a Jaccard knife, which pierces the meat and breaks muscle fibers. MEAT FABRICATION TECHNIQUES 17 FI G U R E 1.14a Tenderizing meat using a Jaccard knife. FIG U RE 1.14b Tenderizing meat by pounding. A typical chemical tenderizer would be Papain, which is derived from Papaya, and contains an enzyme that breaks down protein fibers. Adding acidic ingredients, such as lemon juice, to a marinade also helps break down muscle fiber. VACUUM PACKAGING Basic vacuum packaging instructions: 1. Place the item in a bag, allowing two inches of extra space. 2. Position the bag over the chamber so the open end is draped over the sealer bar, but still within the machine. 3. Set the vacuum pressure to the appropriate level for task (most machines can be turned down for fragile items). TOR REY 4. Close the lid and the machine will automatically equalize pressure, vacuum out air, and seal the bag. 5. Place a label with the product name and pack date on the bag. FIG U RE 1.15 18 CHAPTER 1 • WHAT IS MEAT? Vacuum packaging machine. KOSHER AND HALAL MEATS Kosher (literally "ritually acceptable") meats conform to Jewish dietary laws, whereby an animal is slaughtered according to strict religious guidelines. The Torah describes the procedures. SHECHITA [THE SLAUGHTER] The slaughtering process is performed by a trained kosher slaughterer or shochet. The trachea and esophagus of the animal are severed with a very sharp knife. The animal is not stunned but this process is very quick and the animal does not experience pain. BEDIKA This is the process of special inspection that is done after slaughter. The inspector, or bodek, inspects the internal organs to determine whether there is evidence of over seventy different irregularities or growths, which may deem the animal non-kosher, or treif. The lungs in particular are carefully inspected. GLATT KOSHER "Glatt kosher," although taken to mean "strictly kosher," literally means "smooth" kosher, and refers to meat where the lungs of the animal have no adhesions or scars, thus ensuring that the meat is indeed kosher. NIKKUR The process of removing the sciatic nerve, certain fats, and blood vessels from beef, veal, and lamb is called nikkur, or deveining. The fact that many of these are deep in muscle tissues in the hind sections of the animal make it impractical. Much of the kosher meat sold in the U.S. is from the fore sections of animals. KOSHERING Beyond kosher slaughter, meats can be "koshered." Jewish dietary law bans the consumption of animal blood. The two methods of extracting blood from meat are salting and broiling. The liver must be broiled due to the amount of blood intact. Ground meats cannot be made kosher. FIG URE 1.16 Kosher stamp. Kosher meats must be stored "kosher" and cannot come in contact with non-kosher items, such as dairy products, pork, or other non-kosher meats. A stamp is applied to ensure meat is kosher. HALAL MEATS Halal is an Arabic term meaning "permissible." When applied to meat, it means that it is deemed fit for consumption according to Islamic law, as referenced in the Qur'an. Under halal, certain meats, such as pork, are outlawed and considered haraam, or non-halal. HALAL MEATS 19 The slaughter process is similar to the kosher process. Prayers are said at the time of slaughter and strict guidelines are followed. Halal foods are those that are: • Free from any component that Muslims are prohibited from consuming. • Free from anything considered Najis (unclean), according to Shari'ah (law). • Processed or prepared with equipment free from things considered Najis. • Free from contamination while prepared or processed with anything considered Najis. (El-Mouelhy, 1996) Both kosher and halal meats have stamps applied. 20 CHAPTER 1 • WHAT IS MEAT? 2 BEEF Merriam-Webster's Collegiate Dictionary describes beef as "an ox, cow, or bull in a full-grown or nearly full-grown state; especially: a steer or cow fattened for food." Beef is a versatile meat source with a range from inexpensive hamburgers to the ultimate dry-aged steak. Beef can stand alone, simply grilled or roasted, or be fabricated into a large variety of seasoned products such as sausage and smoked, cured, or marinated items. The hearty flavor of beef makes it a standard favorite on menus. Beef is divided into two basic types: quality beef from animals specifically raised for meat and meat from animals that were first used in dairy production. Dairy animals are allowed to mature and, because of the toughness and lower meat quality, are often used for processed items, such as ground beef. Quality raised beef is further divided into market cuts. Beef processing plants are divided along these lines as well. "Cow" plants focus on hamburger production, where the entire carcass meat is considered for grinding. "Fed" quality beef plants process only animals finished on feed to ensure a certain higher quality level. These plants produce the cuts typically seen in restaurants as subprimal, whole-muscle-style cuts with only the trimmings ending up as grind. Many times the fatty trimmings from the fed cattle plants are shipped to the cow plants to mix with the very lean trimmings to make a hamburger formu- Beef production in the United States averages twenty-six billion pounds annually, with an average of 120 to 140 thousand head of cattle harvested per day. The average consumption of beef is around sixty-six pounds per person, annually. Beyond U.S. production, beef is raised on a large scale in Brazil, Argentina, Australia, New Zealand, Canada, Uruguay, Mexico, and the European Union. Grazing cattle are found in many countries of Africa and Asia. lation. Smaller, niche market "meat-locker" 23 operations handle any type of cattle and possibly other species, such as hog, lamb, or bison. Byproducts of the beef industry include the hides, which are used in a variety of leather products, and fats, which are used to create chemicals such as stearic acid. Other beef byproducts find their way into pet foods, pharmaceutical formulations, fertilizers, and more. In the kitchen, beef bones are used for stock and sauces, adding a full, rich flavor. The fact that beef can be ground and formed into hamburger or sausage allows for the use of much of the trim, adding value to the total carcass. BEEF BREEDS Many of the modern quality beef breeds originate from the United Kingdom and continental Europe (Bos taurus). Other breeds from India (Bos indicus) have influenced herds as well. Today, there are over 210 different breeds of cattle, a breed being an animal selected for specific traits that can be passed on to offspring. Much of today's cattle are mixed breeds that may have attributes of the many purebreds they originate from. Some breeds have features that influence cattle in ways that have nothing to do with the actual meat, such as the ability to withstand harsh conditions, including drought or excessive heat. General speed of gain, the ability to grow to market weight rapidly, might be a feature a breeder looks for. Certain breeds are known for their quality meat. Fineness of muscle fibers, ability to develop intramuscular fat or marbling, good yield scores, and size and thickness of the carcass are all genetic features. All of the world's modern beef breeds descend from the aurochs, an extinct breed of European wild ox. The wild aurochs stood about six feet tall at the shoulder and had large horns, according to depictions found in Neolithic cave dwellings. Domestication of beef began approximately 7000 to 8000 years ago, in what was known as the Fertile Crescent in the Middle East. Beef, as we know it today, covers a large number of breeds under the general species of Bos. TYPICAL BEEF BREEDS This is a short list of commonly bred beef cattle. BLACK ANGUS Origin: Aberdeen, Scotland Black Angus have black coats, are polled (no horns), have fine muscle fibers, even marbling, and have a high value. 24 CHAPTER 2 • BEEF FIGUR E 2.1a Black Angus bull. FIG U RE 2.1b Black Angus cow. CHAROLAIS Origin: France Charolais have white coats, large carcasses, good muscling scores, and are good for mixing with other breeds. F IGUR E 2.2a Charolais bull. FIG URE 2.2b Charolais cows. BEEF BREEDS 25 BRAHMAN Origin: India. The Brahman is a very hearty breed, adapts to a variety of feeds, and gains weight rapidly from birth. F IGUR E 2.3a Brahman bull. FIG U RE 2.3b Brahman cow. HEREFORD Origin: England Hereford have a red coat and a white face. They have good meat quality, a rapid gain to market weight, and were the predominant cattle species in the building of U.S. herds in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. They are good foragers and are hearty. 26 F IGUR E 2.4a Hereford bull. CHAPTER 2 BEEF • FIG U RE 2.4b Hereford cattle. HOLSTEIN Origin: Europe The Holstein has a black and white coat and is primarily a dairy cow. They have a small eye muscle, fine fibers, and good marbling; however, they have a lower meat value. PIEDMONTESE Origin: Italy Piedmontese cows have very fine fibers and tender meat without heavy marbling. They have a double muscling trait unique to the breed, which translates to very good yields. FIG URE 2.5 Holstein cow. FIG URE 2.6 Limousin steer. FIG URE 2.7. Chianina bull. LIMOUSIN Origin: France Limousin produce quality meat, have excellent feed efficiency and rapid gain, and are excellent for crossbreeding with fattier breeds. CHIANINA Origin: Italy The Chianina is a large breed known for quality beef. It is the original beef used for the classic Bistecca alla Fiorentina, Italian Beefsteak Florentine. SIMMENTAL [ALSO, SIMMENTHAL] Origin: Switzerland Simmentals are one of the oldest cattle breeds. They have large features, are good for crossbreeding, have widespread genetics, and produce good dairy. BEEF BREEDS 27 FIGUR E 2.8a Simmental bull. FIG U RE 2.8b Simmental cow. TEXAS LONGHORN Origin: Spain, but altered over time These were the first cattle brought to the Americas, about 500 years ago. These cattle adapted to the harsh conditions of the Southwest and thrived without much human influence. As the western landscape changed from open grazing to fenced herds, the need for a self-sufficient, semi-wild beef diminished. The breed was saved from near extinction in the 1920s. WAGYU FIG URE 2.9 Origin: Japan Texas Longhorn. Wagyu [literally "Japanese Cow"] have extremely high marbling scores and are considered the world's finest beef breed. There are three main bloodlines of Japanese Wagyu: Tajima, Kedaka, and Fujiyoshi; each has certain body types and specific characteristics. Certain breeds are considered niche-market cattle. Popular niche breeds include Highland, Belgian Blue, Devon, and Belted Galloway. Other breeds have historical value and are protected by societies devoted to continuing the breed. The idea of keeping even relatively obsolete breeds from going extinct is important to ensure a way to mix in desired genetics. Such breeds, although not ideal for present-day meat production, may have traits that ensure disease resistance in beef. BEEF EVALUATION AND GRADING QUALITY GRADING Basic guidelines for evaluating beef were established in 1917, with many changes and improvements following over the years. Grading was established originally to purchase beef for the armed forces during World War I and, later, for steamship lines, restaurants, and railroad dining cars. Grading assigned value to the wide-ranging levels 28 CHAPTER 2 • BEEF F IGUR E 2.10a Marbling scores for beef determine grade Slight score ( Select grade). F IGUR E 2.10c Modest score (mid Choice grade). F IGUR E 2.10e Prime grade). FIG URE 2.10b Small score (low Choice grade). FIG URE 2.10d Moderate score (upper Choice grade). Slightly Abundant score (low FIG URE 2.10f Moderately Abundant (mid Prime grade). B E E F E VA L UAT I O N A N D G R A D I N G 29 of beef available at the time. By 1941, many of the terms now in use were already established, although adjustments to what is required for these grades have been made since that time. Today, beef grading is voluntary and is primarily done to the upper grades of beef to determine value. Grading is paid for by the processor; therefore, all of the lesser-quality beef, although deemed wholesome or fit for consumption, would be excluded from grading. The USDA has guidelines for grading that include many of the following features: • Size and weight of the animal • Age or maturity of the animal • The weight of the carcass • Overall fullness or conformation (basic meat-to-bone ratio) • The color of the lean muscle tissues • Any defects in the lean muscle tissues • Marbling scores (intramuscular fat) Maturity of beef is determined by the bone ossification at points along the vertebrae or by looking at the teeth of the animal. Age categories are used when grading. Maturity is given a letter grade from A to E. A. 9 to 30 months B. 30 to 42 months C. 42 to 72 months D. 72 to 96 months E. Above 96 months High-quality beef would primarily fall into the A maturity range. Beef is quality graded at what is called the rib eye area, or REA, the spot between the twelfth and thirteenth rib. This location will tell much of what is needed to judge the quality of the entire carcass. Quality grading defines the "palatability," or taste, tenderness, and mouth feel of the beef. The USDA quality grades include: • Prime • Choice • Select • Standard • Commercial • Utility • Cutter • Canner When identifying quality in beef, the buyer must first establish the intended use of the item. Higher-quality beef is typically used in steakhouses, where the flavor and texture are important to the 30 CHAPTER 2 • BEEF FIGURE 2.11 U.S. quality grades of slaughter steers. sale. Choice beef has significant quality and can be used as a quality item; however, the range within choice requires the purchaser to be aware of some lower-end product that could represent a lesserquality dining experience. Select beef, which has a lower marbling score, usually requires some help to make it more palatable. Select grade cuts may be enhanced or tenderized to aid palatability. Marbling, although not the only factor in quality grading, substantially increases flavor. Without it, beef may be tender, depending on the age and breed, but lacks the flavor of quality beef. YIELD GRADING Beef can be yield graded to assign value in a different way. Yield grading of beef judges the cutability of the carcass, which includes the fatto-lean ratio. Beef yield grades are used when establishing specifics for beef cuts and are determined by the thickness of the exterior fat and the mass of the interior, or lumbar, fat. These, in conjunction with the ratio between the mass of the rib eye area (or muscle score) and the hot carcass weight, are calculated into a yield grade number. Beef Yield Grades: • 1 — Leanest (Not typical in beef with much marbling) •2 •3 • 4 — Fat (heavy waste, generally avoided) • 5 — Fattest (extreme fat, unprofitable and wasteful) Twos and threes are the most typical grades. Yield grades become less important as restaurants and markets purchase pre-trimmed beef cuts, where the heavy fat is trimmed to predetermined levels by the processor. Over- or undersized items are often deemed "outs," or outsized items, which are often sold at a discount due to their irregularities. FIG URE 2.12 Yield grading. CERTIFIED AND BRANDED BEEF PRODUCTS Beyond quality and yield grading, the USDA provides the service of certifying a variety of beef products. Certification is generated by beef processors or private entities that want characteristics judged beyond normal quality- and yield-grading standards. The intention is to fine-tune the product and therefore be able to market it more specifically. A typical certified product is "Certified Angus Beef." This item has a live animal requirement that guarantees the cattle will have some Angus characteristics. It also requires a marbling score of modest, which eliminates the bottom third of choice; a specific carcass weight of not more than 1000 pounds; and a yield-grade score not more than 3.9. There are numerous certified beef products available and some will be helpful to ensure a higher level of quality, but the buyer needs to understand the differences between requirements so as not to purchase certain certified items that are no more than clever marketing. The USDA lists all of the requirements for certified products on its CERTIFIED AND BRANDED BEEF PRODUCTS 31 Web site. See http://www.ams.usda.gov/lsg/certprog/certbeef.htm and http://www.ams.usda.gov/lsg/certprog/speccomp.pdf. Before purchasing a particular product, especially one at a higher price, the consumer needs to compare them to see the actual advantage of one over another. Processors may also create "branded" products, where beef is selected by in-house graders who can apply certain quality criteria and label the product under a specific company brand name. These products may use the USDA to verify attributes, but also may decide to verify things "in house," which would not be restrained by the agency. A company may use a trim spec as a guideline to ensure a specific yield. Certain companies are separating beef that are achieving marbling scores that are above prime, such as those of the Wagyu cattle or Kobe-style beef. Other companies are identifying feeding practices and branding these traits regardless of marbling scores. Grass-fed, all-vegetarian diet, antibiotic free, or no growth promotants or hormones are examples of processverified, branded products. These new market products may have an in-house certification process that guarantees the farmers are adhering to their specific guidelines. The goal of all certified and process-verified products is to differentiate them from standard products, giving the foodservice operator a way to market beef products at a higher cost. FIG U R E 2.13a Certified label. USDA PROCESS VERIFIED FIG U R E 2.13b Branded product label. BEEF CARCASS BREAKDOWN Beef carcasses are divided into specific sections. The way a carcass is divided depends on the country and culture that is fabricating it. European and English cuts will differ from the standard North American cuts. Countries around the world will differ in the way they cut, depending on the needs and styles of cooking. In this book, all carcasses and cuts will reflect the North American style of fabrication. Meat processors may change cut styles from time to time and subtle changes have occurred over the years to improve products and increase cutability or profit. Fabricating beef from a whole carcass is a difficult task for an individual. A beef carcass is split down the spine just after slaughter, creating sides. A full beef carcass from a decent-quality grade will weigh approximately 600 to 900 pounds; therefore, a beef side is about ten to fourteen feet in length and can weigh upwards of 450 pounds. Buying large cuts of beef and breaking them down requires more than simple skill and accuracy with the knife; there is a necessary amount of physical strength to maneuver such large pieces. For this reason, as well as many other reasons, it is rare to find a restaurant that buys large beef cuts. Once the beef is split into sides, they are then divided into quarters and then into primal cuts. Along with the major primals, there are some minor primal cuts that do not hold as much value. They will be labeled market forms in this book. Primals are usually the largest cuts available in beef. They are heavy and difficult to store and fabricate. 32 CHAPTER 2 • BEEF Restaurants rarely see the primals and a skilled butcher would be required to fabricate these cuts. If a restaurant wanted to create a custom cut that is not commercially available, a primal may be considered. Fewer and fewer meat purveyors carry primal beef cuts and their value has increased due to the difficulty in transporting them. After the primals, beef is divided into subprimals, which usually represent muscle separations of the primal. Subprimals may be trimmed to a specific level or divided further. In the foodservice industry, subprimals and their trimmed versions are known as hotel restaurant and institution (HRI) cuts. There are a multitude of trim levels and specifics for these cuts and it is important to recognize those differences and be able to make decisions based on yield percentages and labor. Many restaurants will fabricate their own portions from HRI cuts and utilize the trim that may result. HRI cuts require some extra skill. This book will focus on fabrication of HRI cuts into portions. Portion cuts, portion-control cuts, or value-added cuts all refer to items that are generally ready to cook. These cuts are simple to use and require no skill level. The initial price may be higher than HRI cuts, however, and portion cuts are inflexible. Your menu item would need to stay within the portion size ordered. An advantage of portion cuts is the ease of inventory control. Another subcategory of the portion cut would be the reformulated cut. These cuts refer to those that take pieces and meld them together by a chemical bonding process to create a "new" portion. PRIMALS • Round • Loin • Rib • Chuck Beef skeletal structure loin round sirloin short loin rib chuck MINOR PRIMALS • Plate • Brisket • Foreshank The North American Beef Processors Asflank sociation [NAMP] has developed a number plate brisket system that identifies most of the beef cuts foreshank available today. Meat processors develop their own code numbers that may or may FIG U RE 2.14 Beef skeletal structure with primal not incorporate the NAMP numbers, but divisions. meat purveyor salesmen are familiar with them. This book uses the NAMP numbers as a guide, but be sure to identify individual processors' codes to receive the exact specs you require. Some cuts may have multiple names; listed below are the most typical. ROUND The beef round or back leg is generally the largest primal. It consists of large, lean muscles that have a high yield percentage. The cuts vary in quality and size. The largest and most tender is the top round. In foodservice, the top round is used most BEEF CARCASS BREAKDOWN 33 FIG URE 2.15 Beef primal round. A B D C H E K G J F I FI G U R E 2.16 A. Top round or inside round; B. knuckle; C. eye round; D. gooseneck round; E. heel; F. bottom round or outside round; G. marrow bones; H. shank; I. top round roast, tied; J. top round London Broil; K. top round, cap off. often as roasts, steaks, and various thin-sliced items. Other round cuts are lean and do not have much connective tissue, but their muscle fibers tend to be slightly thick and therefore can be tough. Retail stores embrace the round cuts, selling them as roast for reasonable prices, but foodservice operations often struggle to create high-value cuts from most of the round. The classic buffet presentation of the steamship roast includes the entire round with its shank bone Frenched and trimmed to specific levels. This large (sometimes upwards of sixty-five pounds) roast can be an awe-inspiring carving station at large functions and weddings. Subprimal Cuts • Top / inside round • Eye round 34 CHAPTER 2 • BEEF • Knuckle • Shank • Bottom / outside round flat • Heel F IGURE 2.17 NAMP HRI chart for beef round. DESCRIPTION/ FABRICATION SUGGESTED COOKING METHOD/APPLICATION AVERAGE SUGGESTED WEIGHT IN POUNDS TYPICAL PACKAGE SPECS 158 Round, primal Large, full primal Round cuts tend to be large, full muscle cuts that can be slow roasted; some dry cooked as steaks, braised, or ground 70–100 Sold individually 166B Steamship round with handle Full primal, trimmed for large roasting Slow roasting, 8 or more hours; be sure to check temperature. Used for carving station, catering 60–70 Sold individually 167 Knuckle Untrimmed, requires fabrication; also known as sirloin tip Roast, steak, braise, can be split; tip side is tender 10–14 4 per box 167A Knuckle, peeled Trimmed, may need some fabrication Roast, steak, braise, can be split; tip side is tender 8–12 168 Top / inside round Untrimmed, needs fabrication; sold with various levels of fat trim Roast beef, slicing steak, London Broil, sliced thin for stuffing and rolling (roulade, braciole) thinner for quick cook 17–23 3 per box 169A Top round, cap off Trimmed, roast ready; can be purchased split Same as above 16–19 4 per box 170 Bottom round (gooseneck) Large, three sections: outside, eye, and heel Braise, roast, some sections for stew or grind 24–30 2 per case 171B Outside round flat Trimmed or untrimmed Braise, pot roast, sauerbraten; can be roasted and sliced thin; excellent for jerky 12–16 4 per case 171C Eye round Trimmed Braise, pot roast, oven roast (sliced thin), inexpensive carpaccio or fondue (well trimmed) 3–6 12 per case Heel (no NAMP number) trimmed Braise, stew, grind, consumé, goulash, ragout (good flavor) 2–3 varies Hind shank (no NAMP number) Sold bone in or boneless Braise, stew, grind, consumé, goulash, ragout (good flavor) 7–9 2 per bag, 4 bags per case ITEM AND NAMP NUMBER BEEF CARCASS BREAKDOWN 35 LOIN FI G U R E 2.18a Trimmed beef loin (outside view). The beef loin holds more value than any other section. The HRI cuts are some of the most tender and expensive on the carcass and are generally dry cooked as quality steaks and roasts. The loin is fabricated in two ways. First, the loin can be cut in a way to fabricate for large steaks, such as the porterhouse and t-bone. These two steaks are standards on many steakhouse menus. Second, the loin can be fabricated into individual subprimals, creating the beef tenderloin and striploin separately; these are often the marquee steaks on the menu, demanding the highest prices. Beyond the exclusive cuts, the loin also holds a few cuts of lesser quality that are also very popular menu items. The top sirloin is a large section of the loin and offers a reasonable steak or roast with many options when cutting. It is typically sold as a large steak for FI G UR E 2.18b Trimmed beef loin (inside view). slicing or broken into its eyes, or sections, and individual portion cut. It is used in some classic dishes such as churasco, where it is cut into large chunks and grilled on skewers. Bistro-style steaks from the tri tip, fl ank, and sirloin fl ap are flavorful and have unique textures that, if cut correctly, can offer a very satisfying dining experience. Subprimal Cuts • Striploin • Tenderloin • Shortloin • Sirloin • Flank 36 CHAPTER 2 • BEEF E F D G I H M L C J K B N A O FIGURE 2.19 A. beef ball tip; B. beef tri tip; C. top sirloin butt; D. beef shortloin; E. bone-in beef striploin; F. boneless beef striploin; G. striploin roast; H. striploin steaks; I. porterhouse steaks; J. sirloin flap; K. beef tenderloin medallions; L. beef tenderloin, denuded; M. beef tenderloin, PSMO; N. beef tenderloin butt; O. beef flank steak. BEEF CARCASS BREAKDOWN 37 F IGURE 2.20 NAMP HRI cuts chart for beef loin. DESCRIPTION/ FABRICATION SUGGESTED COOKING METHOD/APPLICATION AVERAGE SUGGESTED WEIGHT IN POUNDS TYPICAL PACKAGE SPECS 172 Loin (primal) Full loin, trimmed, requires fabrication Cuts from the loin are generally dry cooked as steaks or roasts; many options exist from the many cuts created from the loin 55–80 Sold individually as hanging beef 174 Shortloin trim specs—0 3 1, 1 3 1, 2 3 3 Only purchased for cutting porterhouse and t-bone steaks; requires band saw Grill, chargrill, broil; high heat preferred; can be dry aged 22–28 (varies with trim specs) 3 per box; can also be purchased as hanging beef for dry aging 1174 Porterhouse / t-bone portion cuts Porterhouse has larger tenderloin eye Grill, chargrill, broil; high heat preferred Customer specified Varies with processor 175 Striploin, bone in trim specs—1 3 1, 2 3 3 tail measurements Requires band saw; cut for portions Grill, chargrill, broil as bone-in steak, shell steak, top loin steak, New York strip or Kansas City strip steak; can be dry aged 18–20 4 per box; can also be purchased as hanging beef for dry aging 1179 Striploin portion cut Trimmed See above Customer specified Varies 180 Striploin, boneless trim specs—0 3 1, 1 3 1, 2 3 3 Trim levels vary, requires some fabrication Grill, chargrill, broil as boneless steak, pan sear, sauté, New York strip steak; can be divided into medallions 8–14, depending on trim level; be sure to order within a 21-pound range for consistent portion sizing 6 per box 1180 / 1180A Striploin portion cut Trimmed, "A" is missing the vein steaks See above Customer specified Varies 181 Sirloin Large bone-in item, requires extensive fabrication Very large bone-in steaks if crosscut on band saw, grill, broil 19–28 Sold individually 184 Top sirloin butt, boneless Requires some fabrication; sold with varying amounts of trim Grill, broil, pan sear, sauté, large slicing steaks, divided into portion steaks 12–15 6 per box ITEM AND NAMP NUMBER (Continues) 38 CHAPTER 2 • BEEF (Continued) ITEM AND NAMP NUMBER DESCRIPTION/ FABRICATION SUGGESTED COOKING METHOD/APPLICATION AVERAGE SUGGESTED WEIGHT IN POUNDS TYPICAL PACKAGE SPECS 1184 Top sirloin portion cut Trimmed; a variety of specs available Grill, broil, pan sear, sauté Customer specified Varies 185A Sirloin flap Trimmed Slicing steak, barbecue, grill, broil, excellent for marinating, may need tenderizing 3–4 6 per bag, 2 per box; Packaging varies with processor 185B Ball tip Trimmed, may need trimming of collagen bands Slicing steak, grill, broil 2–3 6 per bag, 3 per box 185D Tri tip Defatted, trimmed Slicing steak, barbecue, grill, broil, excellent for marinating, may need tenderizing, carne asada 2–3 6 per bag, 3 per box 189 Tenderloin, full Untrimmed, poor yield For roasting whole if fat is desired 8–10 8 per case 189A Tenderloin, PSMO (peeled, side muscle on) Most typical purchase; requires trimming Roasting whole, grill, broil, sauté, filet mignon, medallions, tournedoes, served raw as carpaccio, steak tartare, brochette, kebab; 4.5–6.5 12 per case 190 Tenderloin, side muscle off Requires some trimming See above 4–5 12 per case 190A Tenderloin, skinned, denuded Trimmed See above 3–4 12–14 per case 1190 A / B Tenderloin portion cuts Trimmed, "B" considered barrel cut without any gaps Grill, broil, sauté, filet mignon, medallions, tournedoes, Varies Varies with processor 191 Tenderloin butt Thick side or head of tenderloin; sold with varying trim levels Can be used for all tenderloin applications; also for the classic roast chateaubriand 2–4 2 per bag, 18 per box; Packaging varies with processor Trimmed Grill, broil, London Broil, slicing steak, stuff and braise 1–3 6 per bag, 4 per box; Packaging varies with processor 193 Flank steak BEEF CARCASS BREAKDOWN 39 FIGUR E 2.21a FIG URE 2.21b Beef rib primal. C B D E A H G F F I G U R E 2.21c Beef rib breakdown: A. Beef export rib, B. Boneless beef ribeye lip on, C. Beef back ribs, D. Beef short ribs Korean style short cut, E. Beef short ribs, F. Beef rib cap, G. Beef rib steak boneless, H. Beef rib steak bone-in. RIB The rib is the smallest of all the primals, averaging only thirty to forty pounds. The rib has one main section, the rib eye. Other than the rib eye, there are only a few short ribs and a cap of blade meat. The rib of beef is known for popular steak cuts, such as the Delmonico and the cowboy steak. It is best known for the roast fabricated from the eye. The terms standing rib and prime rib roast are commonly seen on buffet menus, and the roast has been a customer favorite for many years. Even a lower-quality grade of rib eye can present fairly well, because the eye muscle has sections and layers of fat, infusing the cut with extra flavor. Some chefs today are separating the rib eye into its individual layers. The top layer, sometimes known as the inner deckle, is highly marbleized and considered one of the most flavorful cuts on the entire carcass. Subprimal Cuts • Rib eye (bone in or boneless) • Short ribs • Blade meat 40 CHAPTER 2 • BEEF F IGURE 2.22 NAMP HRI cuts for beef rib. ITEM AND NAMP NUMBER DESCRIPTION/ FABRICATION SUGGESTED COOKING METHOD/APPLICATION AVERAGE SUGGESTED WEIGHT IN POUNDS TYPICAL PACKAGE SPECS 103 Rib Full primal Multiple uses, purchased to dry age "Tomahawk Chop" portion cut 35–40 Sold as individual item 109 Rib, roast-ready Large rib bone-in item with feather bones and thick cap fat included; poor yield For roasting only; standing rib roast, prime rib 18–26 3 per case 109D Export style 109E Rib bones in, fat cover off, short-cut, two-inch lip included Standing rib roast, prime rib, bone-in rib eye steak, cowboy steak, Frenched bones 16–20 4 per case 1103 Rib steak portion cut, bone in Trimmed Bone-in rib eye steak, cowboy steak Customer specified Varies 112A Rib eye, lip on Boneless, no cap, two-inch lip of fat included Boneless rib roast, prime rib, boneless rib steak, Delmonico steak 11–14 6 per case 112 Rib eye roll Boneless, well trimmed Well trimmed boneless rib roast, boneless rib steak, Delmonico steak 8–10 6–8 per case 1112 / 1112A Rib steak, portion cut, boneless Trimmed, "A" has lip of fat on Boneless rib steak, Delmonico steak Customer specified Varies 1103 Rib steak, portion cut, bone in Has curved rib bone in Bone-in rib steak, cowboy steak if Frenched Customer specified varies 123B Short ribs Three bone sections, can be cut into Korean or flanken style Braising, slow roasting, barbecue style 3–4 4 per bag, 4 bags per case 124 Beef back ribs Not as meaty as short ribs Braising, slow roasting, barbecue As specified BEEF CARCASS BREAKDOWN 41 FIG U RE 2.23 Beef arm chuck. C B A F E G D H L K J I FI G U R E 2.24 A. Beef neck bones; B. beef chuck roll; C. beef shoulder clod; D. beef teres major/shoulder tender; E. beef top blade; F. trimmed beef shoulder clod heart; G. beef brisket; H. beef shoulder London Broil; I. beef chuck stew; J. beef short ribs/Korean or flanken style; K. beef scotch tender; L. beef foreshank. CHUCK The beef chuck contains muscles that experience more movement and range of motion than any of the other primal cuts do, resulting in some cuts being very tough and many cuts containing multiple muscle groups with connective tissues. These cuts have great flavor and are excellent for braising, stews, and grind. For years, the chuck was simply cut across all the muscle groups on the band saw, creating the chuck steak. Today, we see the chuck also being separated into individual muscle cuts. This has allowed for the discovery of some tender, deep-shoulder muscles that can be dry cooked and are excellent 42 CHAPTER 2 • BEEF F IGU RE 2.25 NAMP HRI cuts for beef chuck. DESCRIPTION/ FABRICATION SUGGESTED COOKING METHOD/APPLICATION AVERAGE SUGGESTED WEIGHT IN POUNDS 113 Chuck square-cut (primal) Chuck cuts are flavorful but tend to be tougher; excellent for stewing, goulash, grinding, large braises, barbecue, slow roasting 79–106 1 per case 114 Shoulder clod Large, untrimmed, requires some fabrication Braising, pot roast, stew, slow cooking, grind; can be dry cooked if trimmed correctly 15–21 3 per case 114C Shoulder clod, trimmed Large trimmed, requires some fabrication Braising, pot roast, stew, slow cooking; can be dry cooked if trimmed correctly 13–18 3 per case 114D Top blade/ flatiron Defatted, silverskin and connective tissues on Braising roast or steak; dry cook as flatiron steak if trimmed 5–6 1 per bag, 10 per case 114E Shoulder roast/ heart of clod Trimmed center section of clod Braising roast; dry cook as "shoulder London Broil" if well trimmed 8–10 6 per case Teres Major / Shoulder tender Small / very tender Grill, broil, cut as medallions 1–2 6 per bag, 8 bag per case 116A Chuck roll Trimmed / tied Slow roast, grill, barbeque, braise 15–21 3 per case 116D Chuck eye roll Centercut portion cut of chuck roll, very flavorful Slow roast, grill, barbeque, braise, chuck eye steak 5–7 116B Chuck tender Small, tough Braise, stew, goulash, ragout, grind 2–3 ITEM AND NAMP NUMBER BEEF CARCASS BREAKDOWN TYPICAL PACKAGE SPECS 43 as steak items. The bone structure of the chuck is the most complex and requires a high skill level to fabricate it. The bones themselves, especially those from the neck, make a superior stock. They contain a lot of connective tissue and usually a fair amount of meat. Subprimal Cuts • Shoulder clod (Includes the top blade, teres major, heart of the clod) • Chuck roll (Includes the chuck eye roll, under blade) • Chuck tender • Short ribs PLATE, BRISKET, AND FORESHANK These cuts in their rough form, as cut from the whole carcass, contain a lot of bone and waste fat. Being lower on the carcass, they tend to be tough but very flavorful. The brisket has multiple uses. It is a mainstay of beef barbecue, being smoke roasted for hours. Brisket, cured and seasoned, is used for corned beef and pastrami. It is a favorite as pot roast as well. The plate contains short ribs and the skirt steak. The skirt is the original fajita and is actually the diaphragm of the animal. The two sides of the diaphragm are connected in the middle of the carcass at the hanger. The hanger is considered a high-flavor, quality steak known as the Anglaise in French cooking. The foreshank contains some of the toughest muscles on the carcass. It is primarily used for grind and can make a quality broth or stock. Subprimals Plate: • Short ribs • Skirt steak • Hanger steak Brisket: • Fresh, cured • Whole or split Foreshank: • Whole or boneless 44 CHAPTER 2 • BEEF F IGUR E 2.26 NAMP HRI cuts for beef plate, brisket, and foreshank. ITEM AND NAMP NUMBER DESCRIPTION/ FABRICATION SUGGESTED COOKING METHOD/APPLICATION AVERAGE SUGGESTED WEIGHT IN POUNDS 120 Brisket 120 A / B (also purchased as corned beef if cured) Boneless, deckle off Flat section (leaner) Point section (fatty) Braise, barbecue, slow cooking, can be purchased as corned beef and simmered 10–12 6 per case 121c Plate, skirt steak (diaphragm), outside Higher quality than inside skirt, needs to be peeled and defatted Grill, broil, fajita, pan sear, cut across grain 2–3 4 per pack, 12 packs per case (packaging varies 121d Plate, skirt steak, inside Lesser quality, requires fabrication Grill, broil, pan sear (may require tenderization before cooking), cut across grain 3–4 4 per pack Hanger steak Also known as the steak anglaise. Requires peeling and removal of large collagen band Very flavorful steak; grill, broil, sauté; may require marinade or tenderizing TYPICAL PACKAGE SPECS 2 per bag, 6 per case BEEF OFFAL • Beef liver • Tripe • Oxtail • Tongue • Cheeks Beef offal are, generally, reasonably priced and can offer some unique flavors and textures. Braised oxtail creates a rich full flavor; the cheeks also are presented as a very flavorful braise; the tripe is used in many classic dishes and needs a long cooking time. Beef tongue is often cured and smoked, which gives it a ham-like flavor. BEEF CARCASS BREAKDOWN 45 F IGURE 2.27 ITEM AND NAMP NUMBER DESCRIPTION/ FABRICATION SUGGESTED COOKING METHOD/APPLICATION AVERAGE SUGGESTED WEIGHT IN POUNDS TYPICAL PACKAGE SPECS Beef offal tend to be strong in flavor; prices tend to be very reasonable Beef offal Beef oxtail Sold singular or portion cut into sections Slow braise, soups, stews, ragout 2–4 6 per box Beef tripe Honey comb tripe is best; sold frozen in blocks Slow braise, stew, used as ingredient in other dishes Varies Sold by box weight; frozen Beef tongue Fresh or smoked; requires peeling Slow cooked, simmered, boiled 3–4 Varies Beef cheeks May require some fabrication, trimming, washing Very flavorful, slow braised .5–1 Sold as large frozen block, 60 pounds; packaging can vary Beef liver Requires peeling and blood vessel removal; requires slicing into portions Strong flavor; sautéed, pan seared 8–10 1–2 per box Beef kidney Requires removal of blood vessels in center Strong flavor; steak and kidney pie, slow cooked 2—2.5 Varies Liquid Used for coagulation sausages; Boudin Noire, blood sausage or pudding, kishka, blutwurst 1 gallon 1-gallon container Beef blood 46 NAMP HRI cuts for beef offal. CHAPTER 2 • BEEF B D A E C H G F I FI G U R E 2.28 Offal: A. Beef heart; B. smoked beef tongue; C. beef oxtail, portion cut; D. sheep casings; E. pork caul fat; F. hog casings; G. beef tripe; H. beef middle casings; I. beef round casings. FABRICATION OF BEEF CUTS BEEF ROUND The beef round is the largest of the primal cuts of beef. It contains the subprimal cuts top round, knuckle, eye round, heel, bottom round flat, and the shank. Each section varies in tenderness, with top round being the best. The shank and heel are the two toughest sections. The round is sold whole and is most often broken down into the subprimals. The round is sometimes sold as a steamship, which has the shank Frenched and the aitch bone removed. It is slow roasted and used as a carving station item. TOP ROUND The top round is most often cooked as a large roast. It is excellent for slicing roast beef, due to its large collagen-free muscle structure. It can be used for large slicing steaks, but is better if marinated or pinned (mechanically tenderized). The top round is also excellent for thin slicing as a stuffed and rolled FIG U RE 2.29 Beef top round (NAMP 168/169). FABRICATION OF BEEF CUTS 47 braising cut (roulade, bracciole, paupiette) or even thinner as a quick sauté or stir-fry. Fabrication of a Beef Top Round to a Large Roast Trim cap fat to 1/8 inch thickness Trim soft side muscle and remove blood vessels and connectives Trim connectives and membranes from underside Split roast if desired FI G U R E 2.30a 48 The top round can be fabricated into roasts or steaks. Trim the exterior cap fat to 1/8 inch thickness. Tie using a butchers knot FI G U R E 2.30b FIG U RE 2.30d Cut away fatty tail section about two inches from end. Top round can be roasted whole or divided into smaller roasts. Divide with natural grain. A top round yields three, four- to five-pound roasts. FI G U R E 2.30c Turn over and remove soft side muscle. Soft side contains blood vessels and tougher fibers(169C). FIG U RE 2.30e Tie roasts using butchers twine. Space knots evenly for presentation and even cooking. CHAPTER 2 • BEEF Alternatives — Remove cap for super-trimmed roast Cut into large London Broil type steaks. Slice into 1/4-inch cutlets for stuffing and rolling. Slice very thin for quick cooking, such as fondue, wok cook, cheese steak. FI G U R E 2.31a Top round cap can be removed for a more consistent roast. Remove cap muscle by peeling through the natural seam. FI G U R E 2.31c The trimmed cap can be used as a slicing steak or roulade. FIG U RE 2.31b Trim all fat and silverskin off cap (NAMP169B). FIG U RE 2.31d A Jaccard knife can ensure tenderness and aid in marination. FABRICATION OF BEEF CUTS 49 FI G U R E 2.32 Rather than tying the top round into roasts, cut large London Broil steaks. Top round yields six or seven large one-inch steaks (NAMP 1169). Hint from the butcher: Slightly freezing the top round will allow for very thin slicing. F IGUR E 2.34 50 CHAPTER 2 • BEEF FIG U RE 2.33 Slicing a portion of beef top round to use for a roulade. BEEF GOOSENECK ROUND The gooseneck is a section of the round containing the bottom round flat, eye round, and heel. These three cuts are very lean, but tough. The gooseneck remains the most reasonably priced of all the cuts in the round. Beef gooseneck round (NAMP 170). F IGUR E 2.35a FIG URE 2.35b The gooseneck is comprised of three sections: the eye round, the bottom round flat, and the heel (NAMP 171B, 171C, 171F). To divide into sections, start by dividing away the eye round through the natural seam. F IGUR E 2.35c FIG URE 2.35d Separate heel and thick fat The bottom round flat can be trimmed for roasting or braising. Trim heavy silverskin off side. Trim fat to 1/8-inch thickness. Tie roast using slipknot FIG URE 2.35f from back end. F IGUR E 2.35e Knots lined up for easy to shape. removal. F IGUR E 2.35g FIG URE 2.35h Cut into strips and crosscut for cubes. Heel meat also has great flavor when ground as burger. The heel section is tougher and can be used for stewing or braising. FABRICATION OF BEEF CUTS 51 BEEF SHANK The beef shank is one of the toughest muscles on the carcass but also one of the most flavorful. It is loaded with collagen, which adds a lot of flavor and protein to the dish. It is used for a superior stew or a flavorful grind. Beef Shank and Cut Beef Stew Cubes • Trim exterior fat. • Find "bone side," where the bone is near the surface. • Run knife down one side of the bone, then the other, angling into the bone. Loosen meat from the base of the shank. F IGUR E 2.36a 52 Beef Shank; peel exterior FIG U RE 2.36c Once both sides are loosened, cut underneath towards the base. FIG U RE 2.36d membrane. "marrow" bone. F IGUR E 2.36b Find the bone near the surface. Outline bone on either side, cutting from the thinner side towards the thicker base of the shank. cubes for stewing. CHAPTER 2 • BEEF FIG U RE 2.36e Boneless shank meat and Trim the shank and cut into • Trim exterior fat. • Cut into strips and crosscut into stew cubes. BEEF LOIN The loin contains the four subprimals: striploin, tenderloin, sirloin, and flank. The striploin and part of the tenderloin form the shortloin. All of these cuts are popular menu items and therefore cost more, on average. These are sold bonein or boneless, with varying trim levels, or as portion-control cuts. BEEF STRIPLOIN The striploin is one of the bestknown and most readily identifiable cuts of beef. It is typically fabricated into quality steaks, such as the New York strip or shell steak. It can also be used for a quality roast, giving a very consistent slice. Today, we see some chefs splitting the striploin the long way to cut into medallions or thin slicing for carpaccio. FIG U RE 2.37 Beef Striploin for Roast or Steaks Beef striploin, bonein (NAMP 175). Trim exterior to desired thickness. Remove large collagen band approximately two inches across top of eye muscle. Remove bone connective tissues from underside. Cut off "vein" steak from sirloin side (if roasting, tie with two-inch spacing). Portion cut with palm flat against steak, making an even portion; weigh steak for accuracy. FI G U R E 2.38a Outlining the thirteenth rib. FIG U RE 2.38b To bone the striploin, use a small, stiff boning knife. Remove the thirteenth rib bone by outlining it from both sides and lift to cut underneath. (Continues) FABRICATION OF BEEF CUTS 53 (Continued) FI G U R E 2.38c Cut through the chine bone area flat across all bones at about a 45-degree angle. FIG URE 2.38d Peel away the feather bones by keeping the knife flat and cutting downward. FI G U R E 2.38e Remove finger bones by hooking knife underneath thick section and peeling towards the flat part of each bone. There are typically five or six flat finger bones. FIG URE 2.38f FI G U R E 2.38g To fabricate striploin into roast or steaks, start by trimming cap fat to 1/8-inch thickness. Use a larger knife such as a scimitar or slicer. FIG URE 2.38h Remove the heavy collagen band located along the top side of the striploin. Typically, it is two inches wide. Remove all bone connectives from underside, also. FI G U R E 2.38i Tie roast at about two-inch intervals to maintain shape. Some chefs are splitting the striploin lengthwise to create two smaller roasts. FIG URE 2.38j When cutting portions of striploin steaks, use a scimitar or slicing knife. Be sure to hold steaks flat with palm when cutting and weigh each for accuracy. Remove the thick tail fat trimming to desired thickness. A typical measurement is to leave one inch of fat on the rib end and trimming to zero inches on the sirloin end. This creates a (NAMP 180) 0x1 striploin, a typical foodservice spec. (Continues) 54 CHAPTER 2 • BEEF (Continued) FI GU R E 2.38k A typical yield from a ten- to twelve-pound 0x1 striploin will be about fourteen to sixteen, eight-ounce steaks. FIG URE 2.38l On the sirloin side of the striploin is the vein end steak. Note the difference between the two steaks. The one on the left is the tougher vein steak, with a collagen band running through the middle. For portion steaks (NAMP 1180), the vein steak may be included. The center cut (NAMP 1180A) eliminates the vein steak. BEEF TENDERLOIN The beef tenderloin has the finest fibers of any cut in the carcass and, therefore, is very tender, highly prized, and the most expensive. The tenderloin is very popular on many menus and is served as many different dishes. Filet mignon, tournedoes, and chateaubriand are just a few of the classics that are made from the tenderloin. FIG U RE 2.39 Beef tenderloin PSMO (NAMP 189a). Beef Tenderloin Fabricated into Roast or Steaks Remove long side muscle (also known as chain). Remove membranes from top side. Peel collagen silverskin from the tail or thin side towards the head or thick side. Be sure to eliminate collagen between the large side muscle. Remove large fat deposits on bottom side by scraping them loose. Remove any bone tissues and collagen bands from head end. Tuck tail and tie for roast or Remove large side muscle at angle and portion cut for steaks or medallions. FABRICATION OF BEEF CUTS 55 F IGUR E 2.40a The tenderloin is typically cleaned for roasting whole or cutting for portions. Pull away the long side muscle, or chain, and thin membranes. Most of this can be done by hand or with minimal use of a knife. FIG U RE 2.40d Cleaned or denuded tenderloin (NAMP 190A). FIG U RE 2.40e To roast the tenderloin, tuck the tail about two inches. F IGUR E 2.40b Peel away collagen silverskin by placing the tip of the knife under the tail end and working the knife towards the head end. Peeling a tenderloin is always directional, so as not to work against the grain. FIG U RE 2.40f Tie the roast from the tail to the head at about two-inch intervals. Do not over-tighten knots. F IGUR E 2.40c Turn over the tenderloin and remove any connectives and fat chunks. Fat can be removed by scraping the underside towards the tail. Be careful not to over trim. FIG U RE 2.40g To cut portion steaks, remove the large side muscle or head section, angling slightly to open the natural seam. (Continues) (Continued) F IGUR E 2.40h Cut even portions using a scimitar or slicing knife. Hold the portion steady and be sure to keep the thickness even. Weigh each portion and be as accurate as possible. FIG URE 2.40i Smaller end sections can be butterflied to improve shape. Larger cuts to be cooked well done are often butterflied to ensure quicker cooking. F IGUR E 2.40j Tenderloin steaks can be shaped by wrapping in plastic or cheesecloth. FIG URE 2.40k Typical yield of a six-pound tenderloin at four- to five-ounce portions (NAMP 1190A). F IGUR E 2.40l Barding a tenderloin medallion with bacon or lard to increase moisture. F IGUR E 2.40n The cleaned chain can be stuffed and rolled and tied or skewered as a roulade, pinwheel, or involtini. FIG URE 2.40m The chain, or long side muscle, can be trimmed of fat and silverskin. Place flat, cover with plastic wrap, and pound to 1/4-inch thickness. The chain can be grilled as a fajita-type steak. FABRICATION OF BEEF CUTS 57 BEEF SHORTLOIN The beef shortloin is purchased primarily for cutting steaks, specifically the porterhouse and t-bone steaks. Cutting these steaks requires the use of a saw, preferably a band saw. FIG URE 2.41 Beef shortloin (NAMP 174). Portion Cutting T-Bone Steaks Hint from the butcher: The band saw is an extremely dangerous piece of equipment. Be sure the band saw is in good working order and has a sharp blade. It is advisable to practice cutting some less-valuable cuts and gain confidence before cutting the shortloin. Be sure there are no distractions while using the band saw and observe an experienced butcher before attempting such use. Pre-trim shortloin to reduce individual trimming of steaks. Place the shortloin tenderloin side down. Adjust saw