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What's up with mortgage rates? Jeff Lazerson of Mortgage Grader in Laguna Niguel gives us his take.
Rate news summary
From Freddie Mac's weekly survey: The 30-year fixed is at its lowest level in 14 months, this week averaging 4.06 percent, down an astounding 22 basis points from last week. The 15-year fixed rate averaged 3.57 percent, down 14 basis points from last week.
The Mortgage Bankers Association reported an 8.9 percent increase in loan application volume from the previous week.
Bottom line: Assuming a borrower gets the average 30-year fixed rate on a conforming $484,350 loan, last year's payment was $96 higher than this week's payment of $2,329.
What I see: Locally, well-qualified borrowers can get the following fixed-rate mortgages at zero cost: 15-year and 30-year FHA (up to $431,250 in the Inland Empire, up to $484,350 in Los Angeles and Orange Counties) at 3.50 percent, a 15-year conventional at 3.625 percent, a 30-year conventional at 3.875 percent, a 30-year FHA high-balance (from $484,351 to $726,525 in L.A. and Orange counties) at 4.0 percent, a 15-year conventional high-balance (also $484,351 to $726,525) at 3.875 percent, a 30-year conventional high-balance at 4.25 percent, a 15-year jumbo (over $726,525) at 4.50 percent and a 30-year jumbo at 4.75 percent.
What I think: Mortgage rates are dropping like a lead balloon.
Well-qualified borrowers can get a 30-year fixed refinance under 4 percent with zero cost. Purchase and refinance borrowers can pay a point and get 3.625 percent today. Nice!
What gives? The U.S. economy is still doing pretty darn good. We can thank economic global headwinds that are causing investors to seek the security of U.S. Treasuries for this very big U.S. mortgage rate U-turn over recent weeks.
If the purchase market is all of a sudden hot again, then we can certainly say the refinance market is absolutely on fire. Make that a three-alarm fire.
Anybody who has purchased in the last year will likely find lower rates and lower payments today. That could be especially true for homeowners thinking of consolidating their higher interest rate home equity lines-of-credit and existing first mortgages into one lower rate and payment.
Homebuyers are out there again — and at all price levels.
Why? It's a combination of increased choices as the numbers of listings across Southern California is ramping up. And more affordable mortgage payments due to rates dropping.
Two weeks ago, there were 60 new listings at the weekly San Clemente Realtor caravan. This week it was 45. In previous weeks it was running at about 25 to 30 new listings.
In Southern California as a whole, listings jumped from 32,243 last year to nearly 41,000 on March 21, according to Reports On Housing.
"We are seeing an increase in new listings," said Gary Bridge of First American Title who co-manages the weekly meetings.
Jake Schmidt recently sold his $1.75 million Orange County home at full-price in four days.
"Rates drop, and things pick-up," said Schmidt.
What you should be looking for are competitive pricing and top-notch service. Just because somebody quotes you something doesn't mean it's guaranteed.
So, reputation matters. Consider your own previous financing experiences. Did you get a good deal? Was it five-star service?
Recommendations and experiences from family and friends are always good to explore.
Hard data is tough to find but there is this: Several years of data from Quantalytix show borrowers with credit scores of 740 or higher get lower FHA and VA rates with mortgage brokers than retail lenders.
To my knowledge, if you are strongly qualified and you are in the jumbo loan category (over $726,525), regional and national banks offer aggressive pricing — especially if you are willing to move $250,000 to $1 million over to that bank.
If you don't fit the box — like you have bad credit, need to do a bank statement or stated-income type loan — mortgage brokers typically offer the widest menu.
When you do shop around, you can always compare lenders and haggle. Maybe you will end up with a better deal.
What you should never do is double-apply. You run the risk of being financially liable for the lost compensation to the lender who lost out because you picked the other lender. People expect to get paid for completed work.
Mortgage broker Jeff Lazerson can be reached at 949-334-2424 or email@example.com. His website is www.mortgagegrader.com.


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Candidates eye Catholic votes in Massachusetts Senate race
Scott Brown, Elizabeth Warren in close race
Not so long ago, Catholic voters in Massachusetts were seen as reliably Democratic, helping propel fellow Bay State Catholics like John F. Kennedy and Tip O'Neill into the uppermost echelons of national government.
But in Massachusetts' hard-fought U.S. Senate race, many of those old assumptions are out the window as Republican incumbent Scott Brown and Democratic challenger Elizabeth Warren battle for votes in the closely-watched contest.
Neither Brown nor Warren is Catholic and the state no longer has the Catholic voting bloc it once had. Still, the candidates are vying for votes from among this constituency in one of the most Catholic states in the country.
Of the two, Brown has made the most direct appeal to Catholics as he seeks to retain the seat held by nearly half a century by the former president's brother — the late Democratic Sen. Edward Kennedy.
Central to Brown's pitch is his support for an amendment to the 2010 Affordable Care Act that would allow employers and insurers to refuse health care coverage for services they say violate their moral convictions, including contraception. One of the most high-profile critics of the federal law is the U.S. Conference of Catholic Bishops.
Brown routinely describes the so-called "Blunt amendment," named after Missouri Republican Sen. Roy Blunt, as "a conscience exemption in health care for Catholics and other people of faith."
"(Warren) and her allies on the left are dictating to Catholics and other people of faith that they must do as they are told when it comes to health care or face the consequences, regardless of their personal religious beliefs," Brown said in one fundraising email.
Warren, however, portrays the amendment as an attack on women's health care options that would allow insurance companies or employers to deny coverage for any health care service based on "any vague grounds of moral objection."
The amendment, which failed earlier this year, would allow insurers and employers to deny any service they say is "contrary to the religious beliefs or moral convictions of the purchaser or beneficiary of the coverage."
"The bill that Sen. Brown co-sponsored is not a bill about religious freedom, it was a bill about denying women access to needed health care services," Warren said.
Warren also points to actions taken by President Barack Obama to exempt churches that oppose contraception from covering the service. The law still requires religious-affiliated organizations, such as colleges or hospitals, to provide the coverage for workers.
Brown's appeal to Catholics isn't limited to the amendment.
One of his most vocal supporters is former Boston Mayor Ray Flynn, a Democrat who also served as a U.S. ambassador to the Vatican from 1993 to 1997 and is a staunch opponent of abortion, which the church also opposes. Flynn's endorsement of Brown could help boost his support among conservative Catholic Democrats, even though Brown describes himself as "pro-choice."
Brown also has the backing of groups like Massachusetts Citizens for Life, the state's largest anti-abortion organization.
Groups that favor abortion access like Emily's List, which is dedicated to electing Democratic women who support abortion rights, are backing Warren who also describes herself as "pro-choice."
The two candidates also split on gay marriage, which the Catholic Church also opposes. Brown opposes gay marriage, which Warren supports.
A Warren spokeswoman said she has been reaching out to people of all faiths across Massachusetts.
"Catholics have been leaders in the fight for economic justice for all Americans, and they appreciate that Elizabeth has been a strong advocate for consumers and workers," said Warren spokeswoman Julie Edwards.
A 2010 census published earlier this year by the Association of Statisticians of American Religious Bodies, found Massachusetts had the greatest percentage of Catholics of any state.
But Tufts University political science professor Jeffrey Berry said that while the Catholic Church helped build the Democratic Party in Massachusetts, a coherent Catholic voting bloc no longer exists.
For many Catholics, their religion is one of many considerations they bring to the voting booth, he said.
"There's no expectation these days that candidates be Catholic, as there is no longer the expectation that the mayor of Boston be Irish," Berry said.
Still, he said, many Catholics agree with their church's views on social issues like abortion and consider those views when they cast ballots.

subset: commoncrawl


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ngld has just updated Knossos to resolve the blank Explore tab issue. Make sure to auto-update to 0.14.3!
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edit: can anyone recommend any good youtube WGALB games to watch? Not necessarily tutorials, but at least games with helpful commentary.
Quote(even though we were 6v2 against the AI; but both were Hard, so...),Resource balancing is done on a side-by-side basis. One side gets a certain amount of resource points, and this is then diveded equally and shared between the players. So you get 1000 points each, whilst your enemy gets 3000 points each to balance it out. As you are fighting against AI, they do not have the inherent organization problems actual people have when playing with a group and facing down attacks from multiple directions.
(even though we were 6v2 against the AI; but both were Hard, so...),
Can I just say that North Korea is ****ing hilarious? For kicks and giggles I just made a deck with over 230 tanks and TDs, and 166 squads of infantry. Every single one of which are 30 points or less (most are 20 or less).For the Swarm
Abort, Retry, Fail?
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Each language has its own logic, sets of rules and exquisite weirdnesses. If something looks strange to you in the translation, it may be due to such idiosyncrasies rather than a translator's mistake.
For example, in French there is a hard space in front of certain items of punctuation such as question and exclamation marks, colons and semicolons, and quotation marks. Also note that the latter look like this: « » and not " ", unless this is a quote inside a quote. In German, nouns are capitalised and the first quotation mark sits at the bottom, not at the top like in English.
Time and dates are another thing to be aware of: 4.30 p.m. in British English is 16h 30 to the French, and note that a.m. could be interpreted as the abbreviation of après-midi, which means afternoon. Just like American and British formats differ, so do other countries/languages have their own conventions. And why not? After all, there are no universal rules.
These quirks are not negotiable, I'm afraid. After I had translated a website into English for a French client, I noticed that they had added those hard spaces before some of the punctuation. I contacted the client and explained that the rule was a peculiarity of the French language and did not apply in English. The client duly went back and undid their changes.
Those language-specific conventions may clash with your in-house typographical guidelines, but bear in mind that not respecting them will make your text look wrong to your foreign readers. If you plan to publish many documents in another language, it may be an idea to work with your translator on a set of guidelines for that language.
There can also be local differences. For instance, a French client once told me that his spellchecker said that I had misspelt words such as "colour" and "travelling", that it should be "color" and "traveling". I suggested he switched his spellchecker to British English. There were no more "mistakes". Equally, Spanish Spanish and Mexican Spanish, and Swiss French and Canadian French are not the same.
If you think there is an error in the translation, by all means do ask your translator and they will happily explain – or fix it, if applicable. However, please do not tinker with the text as you will likely add mistakes rather than remove any. Check with your translator first and trust their expertise.


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How Do Webmail Users Modify Their Password
Horde permits you to organize e-mail messages, handle and share calendars, contacts, tasks and notes, message filtering, message browsing and HTML message composition with a WYSIWIG editor and spell check. The rewards of stretching are numerous and incorporate enhanced blood flow to muscle tissue resulting in even much more muscle growth and toning, decreased muscle soreness, and help avert any reduce back pain caused by tight glutes.
There are a couple of prime contenders in the globe of webmail consumers, that can deal with any e mail account just like your desktop clientele do. Horde is 1 of the very first webmail customers that I utilised when I was writing for a single of my very first blogs back in 2006 or so, but I always identified it to be a bit clunky and confusion.
You frequently clear out old e-mail and are capable to maintain the email in your box beneath the limit for your account (under no circumstances deleting e mail that's stored in an webmail account can cause you to hit your account limit and make mail bounce back to senders until the limit it changes or old mail is deleted).
In order to to login to webmail utilizing your domain name, you'd will need to first make confident that your domain is fact pointing to our server with DNS records. As for Horde, it is regarded most completely featured e-mail compared to the earlier two Squirrelmail & Roundcube and it has related functions to Outlook. Click to pick one particular of the webmail applications (the choices at times vary by server). But prior to you go running out to the garden to bounce around, read some trampoline weight loss strategies from Fay Roberts , On line Trampoline Coach. This allows your e mail users to handle their autoresponders, email filters and other mailbox settings from inside RoundCube. Following a full 24-48 hours of curing, I pulled the newly created plastic composite tabletop from the mold box and started the cleanup course of action.
The current RoundCube version is 1.1.3 at the time that I write this tutorial, take a look at the RoundCube internet site to check if there is a later version that you can use. DigitalBulls can simply detect these concerns and help you sign in your webmail account without the need of hassles.


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Welcome to the "Money Matters Show Live"- Episode One. In this show, I introduce you to why I created the show and the epiphany I had that inspired its creation. I also share with you some tricks the credit cards company use to manipulate you so they can charge higher interest rates and, I introduce you to my five step "Financial Sanity Solution"©
Please follow and like us:


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Cooks is a long established family removal company with over 65 years of removal experience and a reputation for providing quality removals services at competitive prices.
Cooks operates a large fleet of purpose built removal vehicles with a substantial labour force of full time, trained, professional removal staff. With such a large, flexible pool of resources to call on we have the capability and experience to handle any removals requirement.
The loading, unloading, carrying and care of your furniture is skilled work which requires extensive training.
Cooks Foremen must complete 6 months of supervised service under a trainer until he is allowed to load a vehicle without supervision, such is the skill needed for this crucial task.
Cooks run a well maintained fleet for reliability and quality including vehicles with air-ride suspension. The removal vehicles all vary in size so that we always have the right size vehicle for every removal, allowing us to meet the varying move size and access needs of our customer's properties.
Find out more on our removals services and storage services or contact us today if you need removals advice or a competitive quote.
Cooks is a family removal company with over 65 years experience and reputation for quality.
More about Cooks
We have a reputation built on quality and the professional service we provide.
More about Quality
Read Full Article
Cooks Removals offer a range of professional, safe, secure and convenient self storage solutions
Self Storage


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While we are worshipping at home, we ask that you make your weekly donations online by scrolling to the bottom of the page and click DONATE, or if you would rather mail in a donation, please use the address listed at the bottom of this page.
Stewardship & Endowment
We know that it is not always easy to discuss money, and the last thing anyone wants is to feel they are being pestered to donate every time they walk through the church doors. However, the parish has a budget and financial needs, just like any household or business, and we believe that our habits around saving, spending, and giving have as much to do with our faith as other choices we make in life, such as how we spend our time and our talents.
At Good Shepherd we are working to find ways to make financial giving a regular and stress-free part of our parish life together. We encourage all members to make an annual pledge, which helps the Vestry and Finance Committee to make wise decisions about our operating budget. Our treasurer and assistant treasurer are happy to work with you on setting up an online payment system, if that is the easiest and most efficient choice for you. No pledge is considered too small to "count." We do ask that you prayerfully consider the amount you are able to give.
Besides our annual pledge campaign and various fundraisers throughout the year, another source of revenue for Good Shepherd is a variety of "passive giving" options. We have a Schnuck's rebate system in place for several years. Recently, we have also added Good Shepherd to Amazon Smile's list of charities, which make us eligible for a portion of nearly every purchase you make through Amazon. More information about this program follows.


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Hello again!
Welcome back to the site that aims to please the reader in you from A to Z…Satisfaction for Insatiable Readers.
Today, we're jumping back into the Picture Book family with a book that stars a delightful and unexpected lead character. It's a pachyderm with an usual coloring that's about to show us how even the smallest among us can have a big impact on others. Ready to jump right in? Today's book of choice is….
Henry Holt and Company
About the book…
Amid the hustle and bustle of the big city, the big crowds and bigger buildings, Little Elliot leads a quiet life. In spite of the challenges he faces, Elliot finds many wonderful things to enjoy—like cupcakes! And when his problems seem insurmountable, Elliot discovers something even sweeter—a friend.
Okay, we have to just take a moment and say what begs to be said…
…ready? 1…2….3….
Now that "awww" can be taken as both a reaction to how adorable the cover is, how sweet the story is, and frankly the fact that it has cupcakes (which the author apparently likes as well)…but it can also be taken as a reaction to the sadness and feelings of being unnoticed that we see Little Elliot and his friend experience as the story progresses. It's a double-edged "awww" if you will. Now, let's discuss….
Little Elliot is a little white, spotted elephant that is beyond adorable. He's sweet, friendly, courteous…someone that I for one would be happy to call friend. His desire for a sweet little treat is admirable, all things in moderation and such, but the overlooking of him was heart breaking! I wanted to climb in the pages and shout here he is! Look down here! He's just as BIG as all of you seem to be…or perhaps he's even bigger. His reaction to a smaller critter's plight was AMAZING and that new friend in turn aided him without request in completing his own quest…to finally get that cupcake! His ability to lend a helping hand, or trunk, turns his party of one into a grateful party of two…with a bright future ahead. Now that we've discussed story, let's move onto the presentation…
Have I overused the word adorable yet because really…that fits the bill here. Little Elliot is of course cute as a button. His new little mouse friend is also a cutie. I love the combination of the gritty surroundings and colorful forefront. It's almost like the illustrated duo was placed in an actual cityscape though you can obviously see the line work and shading utilized to create the overall effect. The muted color scheme, though not a first choice personally, worked well as it was carried through from cover to finish…allowing the story and lessons to take center stage while the illustrations supported it all, and rather well.
In conclusion, a small read that takes place in a BIG city with two characters you won't soon forget. It's a great reminder that no matter how big, no matter how small, EVERYONE is important; everyone deserves to be seen and heard. Recommended read for all ages, shapes, sizes, and species.
About the author….
Mike Curato has the fortune of possessing a designer's brain, an illustrator's heart, and an artist's vision. You can find him on any given day walking around the city eating a cupcake (or thinking about it).
ARC for review courtesy of Ksenia at MacMillan Children's Publishing Group. (THANKS!) For more information on this title as well as their complete catalog, be sure to stop by their official site, like them on Facebook, or follow along on Twitter. This title is set to release in a few days time (at the time of this post), so be on the lookout for it on a bookstore shelf near you VERY soon! IN the mean time, if you so desire, it IS available for pre-order! Just search it out at your favorite online sites and BAM, you're all ready to go. Oh and for those that love the little add-ons created to help continue the fun, be sure to check out the FREE Activity Guide on the publisher's website.
Until next time…happy reading!


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Newlight Signs Supply, Collaboration, And Technology License Agreement With IKEA
IKEA wants to have a positive impact on people and planet, which includes taking a lead in turning waste into resources, developing reverse material flows for waste materials and ensuring key parts of our range are easily recycled. IKEA has committed to take a lead in reducing its use of fossil-based materials while increasing its use of renewable and recycled materials.
IKEA to purchase AirCarbon from Newlight production facilities and produce AirCarbon under technology license to help move away from virgin fossil-based plastics.
Mar 01, 2016, 07:30 ET
ÄLMHULT, Sweden, March 1, 2016 /PRNewswire/ -- IKEA SUPPLY AG (www.ikea.com) and Newlight Technologies (www.newlight.com) announced today that they have entered into a supply, collaboration, and technology license agreement that will supply IKEA with AirCarbon from Newlight's commercial-scale production facilities and enable IKEA to produce AirCarbon thermoplastic under a technology license.
Under the agreement, IKEA will purchase 50% of the material from Newlight's 23,000 tonne per year plant in the United States, and subsequently IKEA has exclusive rights in the home furnishings industry to use Newlight's carbon capture technology to convert bio-based greenhouse gases, first from biogas and later from carbon dioxide, into AirCarbon thermoplastics for use in its home furnishing products. Both the companies will work together to identify and select the low cost carbon sources and development of the technology to use a range of renewable substrates, with a long term goal to develop capacities up to 453 KTA or 1 Billion pounds per year. The AirCarbon plants are initially intended to run using biogas from landfills as their sole carbon feedstock inputs, with expansion into other AirCarbon feedstocks over time, such as carbon dioxide.
Minh Nguyen Hoang, Category Manager of Plastics at IKEA of Sweden says: "IKEA wants to contribute to a transformational change in the industry and to the development of plastics made from renewable sources. In line with our sustainability goals, we are moving away from virgin fossil based plastic materials in favor of plastic produced from renewable sources such as biogas, sugar wastes, and other renewable carbon sources. We believe our partnership with Newlight has the potential, once fully scaled, to be an important component of our multi-pronged effort to provide IKEA's customers with affordable plastics products made from renewable resources."
Added CEO of Newlight, Mark Herrema: "IKEA's partnership with Newlight marks an important shift in how the world can make materials: from fossil fuels to captured carbon, from consumption to generation, from depletion to restoration. IKEA is a leader in the concept of harnessing its operations to improve the world, and we are proud to be a part of that effort."
IKEA's long-term ambition is for all the plastic material used in their home furnishing products to be renewable or recycled material. The company is starting with their home furnishing plastic products, representing about 40% of the total plastic volume used in the IKEA range.
About IKEA Group
Our vision is to create a better everyday life for the many people and we offer well designed, functional and affordable, high quality home furnishing, produced with care for people and the environment. The IKEA Group has 333 stores in 28 countries. In addition there are more than 40 stores run by franchisees outside the IKEA Group. The IKEA Group had 771 million visitors during FY15 and 1.9 billion people visited IKEA.com www.ikea.com
For more information, please contact:
[email protected] or +46709936376.
About Newlight
Newlight Technologies is a sustainable materials company using carbon capture technology to produce high-performance materials that replace oil-based materials on a market-driven basis. Newlight was founded in 2003 with a question: why can't we use carbon that would otherwise go into the air as a resource to make materials? Over the course of 10 years of research and development, Newlight developed a biotechnological process to produce a material called AirCarbon: a family of high-performance polyhydroxyalkanoate (PHA)-based thermoplastic materials made from carbon emissions that are able to match the performance of a range of oil-based plastics while out-competing on price. Today, Newlight is using greenhouse gas to produce materials used in the production of packaging, furniture, electronics accessories, caps, and a variety of other products. Following commercialization in 2013, AirCarbon was named "Biomaterial of the Year" by the Nova Institute in 2013, "one of the 100 most technologically significant innovations of the year" by R&D Magazine in 2013, and 2014 "Innovation of the Year" by Popular Science.
For more information, please visit www.newlight.com or contact:
[email protected], or +1-714-556-4500.
SOURCE Newlight Technologies


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In 1987, the Nike Air Max was launched. At the time, it was one of Nike's most revolutionary designs so it unsurprisingly became one of the most popular sport shoe designs. The Air Max was the first sneaker ever made that featured a visible air conditioning unit situated at the heel. Because of this design and the many years that the brand has endured successfully, Nike Air Max sports sneakers are still some of the most valued types of running shoes today. Here are some facts that you may or may not know about regarding the Air Max:
The first collaboration took place in 2002
In 2002, in a bid to increase the number of sales, Nike partnered up with a popular Japanese retailer, Atmos, to create a new design that was inspired by the classic Air Max original. What came out of the collaboration was a sneaker that combined the components of the Nike Air Safari with the shape of the Air Max 1. To this day, this is still considered one of Nike's greatest collaborations.
The Nike branding has changed over time
Over the years, Nike has changed its branding of the Air Max to accommodate the changing times and the demand of the consumers. The original Air Max 1 sneaker, for instance, did not have the distinct Nike branding, which is typically situated on the heel. As the developmentof the shoe progressed, the brand beganincorporating the Swoosh Nike mark at the heel, and it has remained this way ever since.
The design started a revolution
When Air Max was first produced and released, the world had not seen anything like it before. The technology used to create the sneaker was simply life changing and because of it, Nike was able to experience unprecedented success. This technology changed the way that sneakers were created and designed for the better much to the appreciation of consumers.
Air Maxhas a book dedicated to it
The Nike Air Max is the only brand in the world to have an entire book dedicated entirely to it. The book, titled MAX100 was pioneered by Matt Stevens in 2011. The MAX 100 project will feature original artwork capturing designs that Nike Air Max has created over the years that it has been in business. The book is geared towards fans of Nike, as well as collectors of the Air Max.


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He's an artist. And the thing about an artist like John Mayer, one of the most pretentious artists in the business, is that he truly believes that his sh-t is the greatest sh-t of all time. That his mind is the most unique, most original, that his thoughts are the most enlightening and profound...
Which is why he keeps dicking around with the comedy act. This bitch wants you to know what he knows: that his humour is the mother-cking Everest of Humour.
Only problem is...
His material is borrowed?
Not surprising.
I wrote yesterday about Mayer's attempt to be funny at the Hard Rock in London, suggesting to female audience members that he could have any one of them and that "Somebody's getting pregnant tonight".
Turns out Tracy Morgan was dropping that 3 years ago. And funnier. Of course. (Thanks Celia!)
Think about how arrogant, how narcissistic, how embarrassingly in love with yourself you have to be to behave like John Mayer, to actually believe you can make Tracy Morgan funnier than Tracy Morgan when you're John f-cking Mayer. Please.
Photos from Wenn.com


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Always, without fail we begin to notice earlier sunrises and later sunsets, this time of year!
Always, without fail the day
Breaks above the land and sea
Bringing in its come-what-may
Unsoiled opportunity
Always without fail the dawn
In spite of slip-trip-and fall
Flings beneath the rising sun
Fresh endeavors for us all
Always, without fail the night
Fades into the blue beyond
Always without fail the light
Frees the morrow from its bond
Always without fail God's grace
Does not seal the slumb'ring sky
But extends from love's embrace
A new day for you and I
© Janet Martin
How priceless is your unfailing love, O God!
People take refuge in the shadow of your wings.


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Even though these days Maori clothing is typical to the twenty-first century, there are still glimpses of the beautiful traditional clothing accessorized with pounamou and bone carvings in many formal events. Wearing traditional clothes in official ceremonies plays an important role in their cultural identity.
When Maoris emigrated from a warmer climate, into a colder and rainier land, Aotearoa today New Zealand, their ancestors had to become very resourceful with the materials at hand. In order to adapt to rougher nature forces two types of garments progressed. Here are some examples of how the Maori incorporated materials found.
One was a knee long kilt like garment held by a waistband called puipui. Men had the more ornate designs on their waistband with geometric patterns in black and white opposing the plain belt of the woman's one.
The following Youtube clip gives practical insights in the processes involved in making a piupiu.
The higher priced garment was a cloak that was worn around the shoulders. Its various names reflected its use and the material of decoration. Softened fibres of New Zealand flax were the first choice of material to weave the base called kakahu . A Korowai was a cloak decorated with tassles. Incorporated woven ornaments with coloured fibres found their expression in the name Kaitaka. Kahu huruhuru signified the use of feathers while dog fur decoration changed its name into Kahu kuri. A pure practical use withheld the pake. It functioned as a raincoat where a woven flax base got close rows of flax tags attached.
A cloak can be used to protect not only against nature forces but as well provide with its symbolic power protection against human forces. This Youtube clip published by the New Zealand museum, Te Papa Tongarewa, in Wellington recounts a historic example.
Incorporated feathers in Maori clothing were from many native birds, including the now extinct moa, our native kiwi bird, hui, kereru or tui bird. These are only some, follow this link to a clip of the Te Papa museum and learn about how a variety of feathers is used to give a cloak its character and how weavers use feathers to sign their work.
Dying the fabrics created by these materials was done by colouring them in paru (a mud like substance) giving a black colour, or by raurekau bark which made a yellowish colour and a tan colour was provided by tanekaha bark.
Maori men and women accessorize their Maori clothing with beautiful carved pendants. Often the pendant became the shape of a tiki carved in greenstone (New Zealand jade). Greenstone was also the material used by men to carve weapons. Shark teeth became earrings worn by women.
Using the supplies available to them Maori created fashion statements that are still around today. All public celebrations begin with a Kapa Haka performance in traditional Maori clothing as part of New Zealnd's multi cultural background.
At official ceremonies women wear under the puipui a pari. This forms a top and under skirt. Usually linen is used which is decorated in cross stitch in the colours white, black and red. The ornaments are based on oblongs and squares and the design starts off from the centre.
Places with extensive exhibits are, among others, the Auckland Museum and the Te Papa Tongarewa in Wellington the capital of New Zealand along with exhibitions of their fascinating history, their mythology and their culture.
Guest Author: Mariam Cisse webmaster of Easy Healthy Recipes for Kids.com


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I attended the Ancestral Health Symposium 2011 as a volunteer interviewer. I was assigned several speakers to work with, which meant that I sat in on talks I might not have otherwise. One such talk was entitled, "The Rainforest in Your Gut" by Tim Gerstmar, naturopathic doctor, and "Dr. BG", pharmacist, blogger, and author. I honestly had no idea what this talk would be about. I certainly never thought it could change my life!
The rainforest in your gut.
In the first half of the talk, Dr. BG described in detail the inner workings of the gut and the different pathways by which an unhealthy gut can cause a whole host of problems. Some specific health problems she mentioned, that aren't necessarily ones you would associate with diet, included fibromyalgia, rosacea, congestive heart failure, hypothyroidism, asthma, infant colic, and autism. These conditions are very highly correlated with intestinal permeability (leaky gut). In addition, IBS, obesity, hypertension, Type 2 diabetes, Crohn's disease, ulcerative colitis, and fatty liver disease can be caused by diet and treated through diet and gut rehab.
Dr. BG also described her own experiences with both her daughter and her niece. Her daughter had chronic constipation since birth and constantly complained of stomach pain. Her niece, Jillian, was born with mild autism. Both kids saw tremendous improvement by switching to a less-irritating Paleo diet (Dr. BG and her sister are writing a book on their experience with Jillian's autism and diet, but as of this writing, it has not been released.). However, as Dr. BG explained, not everyone can be cured by simply adopting a more ancestral diet. Some people require more aggressive treatment, which can include an even stricter diet, adding fermented foods, or taking probiotic supplements to help restore the gut. As she said, to rehab the gut, we need to "seal it, heal it, and deal with the consequences".
After Dr. BG's part of the presentation, Tim Gerstmar took over (~29 minutes into the video; slide 21). Tim is a naturopathic doctor at Aspire Natural Health in Washington State. His specialty is GI health, and he blew my mind with his description of basically all of my symptoms and all the tests and treatments he routinely performs, which I'd never heard of before.
Gut dysbiosis, as Tim explained, is caused by either pathogens or imbalance in the gut and is connected to food intolerance, malabsorption, inflammation, and gut permeability. He listed 5 symptoms that suggest a person might have gut dysbiosis: significant health problems that may or may not be obviously related to diet, chronic gas or bloating, chronic heartburn, chronic constipation or diarrhea, and poo that contains blood, mucus, or undigested food. This list definitely got my attention as it contains pretty much every symptom I had been suffering from! Even the undigested food that hadn't set off any red flags with my regular doctor. Sadly, as Tim said, many of these ailments are common, but common is not the same as normal.
Tim described the types of tests he runs and how they can both diagnose the specific problems in someone's gut and also show how well the person would respond to certain treatments. There are five treatment categories, which are often used together depending on how sick a person is and in what ways: diet, herbal medications, prescription medications, gut healing formulas, probiotics, and "brain support".
When it comes to diet, the recommendations are stricter depending on how much healing your gut needs. Bacteria and pathogens that cause gut dysbiosis feed on carbs, so sugars, grains, and most fruit are the first things to go. Then, because the gut is already messed up, other irritants should also be avoided, including dairy, soy, alcohol, and even legumes and nightshades (like tomatoes). In time, as the gut becomes better able to process these foods, they may be worked back into the diet.
Now, this may sound like a lot of restrictions, but there is still a whole world of food out there that you can eat on a gut-healing diet. Vegetables (other than nightshades), meat, fish, nuts, coconut, perhaps some fruit, and fermented foods are all great. The diet recommendations for gut-healing are very similar to those of the Paleo, Primal, and other ancestral diets, although you may need to be more restrictive. There are many resources available online if you want to test out a gut-healing diet on your own (like here and here). The length of the diet (weeks to months) and how restrictive you would need to be would depend on the level of gut dysbiosis and permeability that you have.
Herbal or prescription medications and gut-healing formulas can really help bring the gut back into working order, but for these, you should be working with a doctor. For example, Tim uses cultures (i.e. poo) to identify the ways in which a person's gut is malfunctioning, and that helps him decide which types of medications to use.
The long and winding road… to recovery.
For me, cutting out dairy improved my daily GI health the most. Cutting out gluten also helped. At that point, I found that I didn't have problems with nightshades or fruit. However, foods with anti-nutrients akin to gluten did give me problems. Some legumes, like kidney beans, split peas, and certain kinds of lentils cause me a good deal of irritation, and the supposed super-food quinoa is virtually indigestible!
Tim also helped me start on a daily regiment of probiotics. I took a ¼ teaspoon of Ther-biotic Complete powder each day, mixed in with my morning nut butter. Because I saw such a vast improvement from changing my diet, and because I got pregnant shortly after the symposium, I decided not to pursue further treatment aside from the probiotics. Even though I am feeling so much better, I still plan to continue taking probiotics in addition to my reformed diet. Our bodies used to get these important bacteria from traditionally-prepared fermented foods and even from dirt! However, our modern sterilization and pasteurization techniques (which are definitely good for keeping us safe from some life-threatening pathogens) kill off a lot of the beneficial bacteria that our bodies need. That makes it much harder in a modern diet to keep up a healthy gut biome. Incorporating traditionally-prepared fermented foods like kim chee, sauerkraut, and (unpasteurized) yogurt into your daily menu is a great way to keep yourself healthy. For me, though, the probiotics offer a more practical solution.
Over the past nine months, I have had a remarkable recovery. I now know the real meaning of "regular". And, I can even eat dairy again! I keep my intake low – some organic pastured butter on our homemade popcorn or some yogurt with nuts and berries – but I don't have to panic if I find a little cheese on my salad or if there is butter baked into a treat. I don't know what would happen if I ate a slice of pizza or a plate of lasagna. I'm guessing I would feel pretty crappy, but I doubt I would have the painful cramps, bleeding, or week-long diarrhea that had become commonplace in my life. The interesting thing is, I don't really miss those foods. I didn't change my diet solely to rehabilitate my gut. I also did it because I realized how little actual nutrition was getting on my plate and in my body. Focusing on vegetables and other nutrient-dense foods has helped me gain energy, feel happier, lose weight, and cure my gut dysbiosis. There is simply nothing a slice of pizza, a giant soda, or a bowl of cereal can offer me that can compete with that!
Unfortunately, our industrial food system and the vast marketing machine that goes along with it makes it seem like cheaper and faster is the way to go when it comes to food. They highlight the use of whole grains or antioxidants as though they can magically transform any food into something healthy. But true health comes from fresh produce, clean eggs, meat, and fish, nuts, coconut, traditionally-prepared legumes, and fermented foods. These foods are more expensive and harder to market, but they are the nutritional winners and the best foods for us humans to eat. A truly ethical food system would provide more of these foods and less of the processed foods that our bodies are simply not able to handle. You, the consumer, can help by demanding the types of foods that keep us healthy and rejecting nutritionally-poor, potentially irritating foods. If we want to be healthy, we have to fight for it.
A full belly; a happy body.
When I was told I had IBS, it was like being told I was a flawed human being. My digestive system simply didn't work properly, and it never would. When I removed dairy and gluten, I improved my health and my life, but I still thought of my body as broken. I could reduce my symptoms with certain behaviors, but I would never be cured. Now, I know otherwise. I do have to make smart choices – focusing on healthy foods rather than irritating ones – but I can feel good every day and still indulge in a treat now and then. And most of the foods I restrict really don't have much to offer me anyway.
If you are struggling with GI symptoms, autoimmune problems, metabolic disorder, or depression, please consider changing your diet and seeking out a gut-specialist. Most importantly, do not give up! Do not go on suffering in silence because you are embarrassed or because a doctor has told you nothing can be done. Even if you do have a condition that can't be "fixed", such as Celiac disease, you can feel better. You deserve to be healthy.
A few more notes:
- Think you might have gut dysbiosis? Tim explains an easy, do-it-yourself test on slide 33: take ¼ to 1 teaspoon of inulin, a natural soluble fiber found in chicory root and other foods. If it gives you a lot of gas and bloating, you have tested positive.
- Probiotics are especially important when taking antibiotics, another useful tool of modern medicine that can unfortunately cause gut dysbiosis. Birth control pills and a daily aspirin regiment can also mess with the bacteria in your gut, so both speakers highly recommended taking probiotics if you are also taking either of these medications.
- If you are in the hunt for a gut-specialist, Tim Gerstmar at Aspire Natural Health may be just the person you are looking for!
- Pregnant or trying to conceive? Gut dysbiosis in mom can lead to greater sensitivity and even autoimmune problems in baby. If you have GI problems before/during pregnancy, seriously consider a change of diet and incorporating fermented foods or probiotics. If you already have kids, and they are experiencing GI issues or suffering from autism or other developmental problems, they may need a diet change. This isn't intended to place blame or make anyone feel guilty; there isn't a lot of focus in prenatal care on these issues. We all know to take folic acid to prevent spinal problems, but no one mentions the dangers of gut irritants. So don't waste time feeling bad, just get the help you and your baby need!
- I had the opportunity to interview Tim and Dr. BG at the symposium, but the video of the interview has still yet to become available. Should it surface, I'll be sure to add a link!


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How I plan to Teach American History from 1865
Yesterday I wrote about what I was going to teach when I covered Reconstruction in my American History after 1865 course this fall. In today's post I am going to cover a bit on how I will teach this era which serves as a thought process for teaching the entire course. I feel that when I articulate my thoughts I develop them in a far more realistic manner instead of focusing on idealism which turns out to be impractical in some classroom situations.
Keeping in mind that I will have a small class with anywhere from six to twelve students, I decided to go with three groups apiece. There is only one three section chapter, five four section chapters, seven five section chapters, and three six section chapters. Four groups would be optimal for this course, but I dislike two man groups except for my film course. Group size will be three people and the peer assessment evaluation will be in play.
Peer assessment evaluation is used so that students make an active contribution to the group work. I send an e-mail out for each module of four chapters. Students can reply to me indicating that a team member is not doing the work and that the other members are carrying the load. Since much of the grading is through the group activities, slackers get penalized for up to half the points possible. This addresses the issue of group coasting where on student rides the coattails of the others.
This summer's course used 24 lessons and I currently have 26 listed now using the days system. I think I'm going to cut two of them out by turning two of the five section chapters into three group lessons instead of six. There is an overload of five section chapters in the second half of the class and that will allow for some balance and provide a cushion for the inevitable cancelled classes.
|A Bit Too Complicated
The four essay assignments, mid-term, and final stay in place. The 24 quizzes will continue as well. I find those prompt students to do better or to even do the work because they know there is a quiz at the end of each lesson. Some of them are take home while others are in class. I prefer to mix that up because it keeps students off balance as well. I do have fifty points to put into the system as we do not have the Constitution to cover. I may insert a short section on Missouri History as two lessons although I have to confess I am not really wanting to. I would love to insert a game into the class and my old high school teacher Mr. Dorson had a nice pretty simple game he used for WWI in his Recent American History class. It took up two hour long class sessions, maybe three and that would fit perfectly here coupled with a short game essay. If I can remember enough of the rules I may use that instead.
I have decided that for Fall I will require students to present an index card with three questions written on it in place of the social media page that we used in the summer. I had originally tried to go with Twitter, but that seemed to be too difficult for people to develop an account for. When Canvas is up and running for my classes in future semesters I may change again. For now, the card will suffice for their attendance taking.
The key is still the lessons for each chapter. By having them read the chapter and then zero in on a section as a group by analzying it in greater depth with video, primary sources, and websites for more detail each group develops a better understanding of that particular section. When the groups present what they learned to the class, it is an opportunity for additional learning on all parts. While no student is able to develop a deeper grasp of each section, they at least learn more than just the book. They also put the pieces into the larger theme through the use of Wikispace and their essays. The exams will feature more essay work than ever because I believe that is the only way to truly develop an understand of what they have learned.
All in all, I think this course promises to be exciting. The lesson development phase is underway and will probably last most of the course as I refine parts of it, especially the PowerPoints I will have for back up use and in future online versions of the course. I think the students will like it as well. The best part is the first day is the last day for lecture!


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A.basket, acc. to AB102 less Att. than ἄρριχος, found in Ar.Av.1310, Fr.349, Pl.Com.41, X.Mem.3.8.6, IG22.1672.65, Thphr.Char.4.11, PPetr.3p.312 (iii B. C.); in later times used specially by Jews, Juv. 3.14, 6.542, cf. Ev.Matt.16.9.
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PLM: Seeking a Simple Solution for a Complex Supply Chain
Ever since PLM (Product Lifecycle Management) software was introduced to the apparel industry, the solution has been helping companies do everything from line planning to streamlining production by giving everyone involved in development access to the same real-time information.
As familiarity with PLM's capabilities has grown, so has the complexity of the supply chain as companies source materials and production around the world.
To kick off a new focus on technology, California Apparel News Executive Editor Alison A. Nieder recently caught up with executives from several technology providers to determine what brands, manufacturers and retailers look for in a PLM solution and how those needs change depending on size and market position. When companies come to you looking for a PLM solution, what are they looking for? Are companies' PLM needs different depending on their size and their market? Do those needs change over time?
Gary Barraco
Amber Road
Director, Global Product Marketing
We've had strong interest in product testing and social compliance—but product testing is becoming more important now with the U.S. Customs and Border Patrol's (CBP) Automated Commercial Environment (ACE) becoming the Single Window in December. What's happening now is CBP is streamlining all trade information through ACE, creating a single, electronic view of all import and export requirements. Previously, traders needed to submit the same information to multiple agencies multiple times. U.S. importers (and exporters) electronically file using ACE, with the filing typically done by your customs broker or your 3PL.
Single Window improves operations for both the importer and the various Partner Government Agencies (PGA) by providing a single portal for the importer to electronically submit all information to comply with CBP and other government regulations. The information would then be assessed electronically by the relevant government departments and agencies (47 in all), resulting in border-related decisions transmitted electronically back to the trader.
As importers, this means you need to turn in certificates of compliance (CoC) stating the product has been tested and is compliant with certain regulations upon entry into the United States. This is not the current requirement under the Consumer Product Safety Improvement Act (CPSIA), which states the importer of record needs to provide the CoC on request, typically when screened at the port. [With Single Window], the certificate of compliance or conformity is now going to be required on every shipment.
There's a new burden on making sure that products are tested and meet all of the regulations based on the country it's sold into. Oregon, Washington State, Maine, California and Illinois have placed additional levels of regulation on some goods, which means you also need to turn in whatever is going to be necessary for the state level. And if you are selling that same product to multiple countries, this gets really complex.
Social compliance often goes hand-in-hand with that also. You don't need to turn in documentation for social compliance in order to [clear customs], but now we have tools for restricted-party screening. You want to look at all of the suppliers you're dealing with to make sure your supply chain is clean. It's similar to the conflict minerals ruling, [which prohibits companies from] buying from a black-listed supplier.
If you look at product testing, if you import 100 T-shirts or 100,000 T-shirts, you still need to have that test done. The demand from the regulatory side is the same regardless of the size of the shipment or the size of the organization. Just because Nike is bringing in a billion shipments a year doesn't mean Modell's Sporting Goods has to do anything less. They've got the same requirements. So from a regulatory perspective, there is no de minimis. Modell's has to make the same investment that Nike is. That's a huge burden on small and medium enterprises. The best way to streamline the processes is to automate using a technology platform such as Amber Road's. The solution allows for tracking of each PO (purchase order) and the testing status, ensuring the goods will have a certificate of compliance for entry.
Mark Burstein
President of Sales, Marketing and R&D
NGC Software
When companies are thinking about a PLM solution, what they really seek is visibility of the product lifecycle from concept through delivery. They are also looking for faster speed to market, more efficient design processes and tighter collaboration with their supply-chain partners. Often, the decision to invest in PLM is a result of a company's success and rapid growth; companies can't keep pace with the growing number of lines, their SKUs are proliferating, and they need to establish more consistency in product fit and quality. These are all signs that a company is ready for PLM.
Companies look for a PLM solution that is designed for the fashion industry. They want a product that is especially designed for their industry and software companies that have in-depth understanding and experience in fashion and apparel.
The beauty of a modular approach to PLM is that companies can get the functionality they need now and expand later.
Typically, the core functionalities are implemented in the first phase, followed by supporting functionalities in later phases. Core functionality includes product specifications and approval tracking, costing, sample management, PO delivery and WIP (work in process) tracking, logistics, and calendar management. These are the basic building blocks for the concept-to-delivery model.
Later phases of a PLM implementation often include line planning, vendor onboarding and compliance, product and material testing, and production quality management. Once the system has been live for a period of time, it's time to add business intelligence (BI) tools to start tracking metrics and setting goals for continued improvement.
Luis Velazquez
Director of Business Development
Lectra North America
Successful companies look for PLM systems for one main reason: They have a strategic goal in mind and their current systems and processes are preventing them from reaching that goal, or at the very least slowing them down. I know this is a very general statement, and it is general on purpose because strategic goals can vary quite a bit from company to company depending on size, market, maturity as well as many other business realities. The important thing is that their investment in PLM be linked to reaching a well-defined strategic goal and that the technology be tied to a thorough revamping of business processes.
When a company is small, often they are looking for a way to get their tech packs out in a uniform way. They are interested in costing, approvals and other basic items. These guys are many times just trying to keep their heads above water as they experience growth and look to manage increasingly complex business models. Larger companies can have additional needs that center around risk management and improving quality. This may include things like assessing environmental impact, documenting the social-responsibility records of their vendors and trade partners, more ownership and accuracy around fit, and better communication tools such as integrated 3-D for globally dispersed teams.
Dr. Andreas Seidl
Chief Executive Officer
Human Solutions Group
I find that no matter what size a company is, there are two highly important issues with regard to a PLM system. Firstly, companies want to design one seamless development process that becomes transparent and manageable via PLM and includes teams, sites and partners worldwide. The second issue is the integration of the key software tools along this process. It is these two factors that have the most impact on quality, time and cost saving—and that is the pressure most companies are experiencing at the moment. They need to get their collections to the store faster, and every cent saved on the way will be beneficial to the company's results. A PLM system that truly matches a company's ways of working can help to achieve this. That is why PLM GoLive offers overall system integration, a full reference process, and availability in the form of desktop, Web or cloud software. Any market segment has its special demands in terms of process design. In my opinion, a true fashion PLM should fulfill any of these demands, like the management of multiple products and their great number of product variants, or individual process flexibility for apparel for men, women and children. However, a company and its processes naturally change, as do its PLM needs. So maximum flexibility and the ability to upgrade to new technologies in the market would be a must for me—and that rules out any system that requires a lot of legacy programming. Our philosophy is fast adaptation and as much flexibility as possible.
Rick Ludolph
Founder and President
Productive Solutions LLC
As a provider of system evaluation and implementation services, we see a growing number of small- to medium-sized businesses taking their first steps into PLM. Fashion companies often look to us for help in defining the scope of their PLM needs, finding their best system/vendor fit, crafting an implementation plan and getting the biggest bang for their PLM buck.
PLM system capabilities continue to expand to include more processes both upstream and downstream from the core product-development focus. Beyond product data management, bills of materials and tech-pack capabilities, many of today's fashion executives and entrepreneurs want to leverage expanded PLM functions for materials management, line planning, workflow management, sourcing and compliance.
Generally speaking, the needs of small- and mid-sized fashion companies are quite similar, but they evolve over time. Early in their PLM initiatives, many companies want to leverage traditional PLM features to tackle basic best practices. For example, their initial goal may be to transition all of their design and preproduction data into a PLM system so that designs, product specifications, costing information and fabric/trim libraries are centralized and captured in digital format instead of on paper, in spreadsheets and disparate computer programs. They also may want to drive more product-development communications through the PLM solution, reducing reliance on emails, faxes and phone calls.
After achieving these early wins, which can result in significant business improvements, some fashion businesses consider PLM's expanded capabilities. For instance, they may want to reduce physical sample rounds by utilizing 3-D sampling technology, which is integrated into some PLM programs. They may decide to leverage PLM line-planning capabilities, drawing on historical sales data and social-media indicators to help them make well-informed decisions on the next season's collections. Some companies are even using PLM to generate 3-D showrooms so that retail buyers can view their collections digitally anytime, anywhere.
The scope of a fashion company's operations can drive differences in PLM system requirements. For example, while most companies need to share product information and track both internal and external processes, a small company with in-house product-development teams and a local contractor network may not have the same collaboration and systems integration needs as a large, global enterprise.
With finite human and capital resources, small- and medium-sized apparel businesses often benefit from implementing an out-of-the-box fashion PLM solution that can provide immediate solutions to their most pressing needs, such as gaining visibility and control over preproduction processes and accelerating time to market. The key is to invest in a system with the flexibility to grow with their business. Their solutions provider should be ready, willing and able to add capabilities and extend the PLM solution to address the demands of growth and supply-chain complexity.
Matthew Klein
Backbone PLM
Companies that come to us interested in PLM are attracted to several benefits. The top ones are:
Cloud-based product data. Having all product-related information in one central hub (in the cloud) makes collaborating with teams across multiple geographies seamless.
Automated tasks. PLM automates things such as file storage, time stamping, PDF generation and report generation. PLM incentivizes the user by taking the product information they're going to create anyway but then aggregates that info and quickly creates reports with it. Therefore, a line plan can be created in seconds using the images they uploaded for their tech packs, consolidating many steps.
Bird's-eye view. PLM offers a bird's-eye view of your product-development process. To find where a button is being used across multiple styles is as simple as clicking a button. Without PLM, it would require someone manually going through each style to find this information. With company's SKU counts in the hundreds, this can be a very tiresome task. Filtering systems help you narrow down seasons, divisions and product categories to help you find the information you need fast.
Recycling product data. Reusing design components helps save both time and money, avoiding additional development fees. Also, many users create new styles from previous, like styles to save time and maximize their productivity, which all can be done with a few clicks of a button.
The interesting thing is a fashion company's development process from one company to the next is very similar, which is why a turn-key PLM such as Backbone works for companies across multiple product categories and markets. Not much varies depending on size and market; we have clients with two users and others with 10 who use the same platform and tools. Their process may differ slightly, but it's mostly semantics.
As a company gets larger, they may need more integration. Usually, they will need a PLM that talks to their ERP (electronic resource planning), their inventory manager, or creates merchandising worksheets and production purchase orders.
Colleen Grass
Director of Business Development
Brands approach us for different reasons and at different times.
Most every company starts out using Excel and email to track everything from design to development, production, all the way to sales samples. FAN PLM caters to lifestyle, footwear and apparel brands, so we see brands come to us for a few different reasons:
Explosive growth. A company is growing so quickly that they can't manage the data, so they hire more people, but things still fall through the cracks. This kind of bandage brings down morale and can financially kill a brand.
Amount of data. Brands with constantly evolving product lines and new seasons throughout the year amount to a massive volume of information that must be tracked. Tracking products through their lifecycles with resources such as Excel, Smartsheets and email are very quickly outgrown. When companies can bring their factories and sourcing agents into specific parts of the system, without security issues, it reduces time, mistakes and eliminates hidden costs.
Reducing head count. Adding head count to analyze, track and make sense of the numbers becomes a financial burden. C-levels start to recognize that they need a robust system that can analyze and make sense of the data. A proper PLM system such as FAN's can provide insight that is otherwise unachievable.
They don't know what they don't know. Oftentimes companies are also looking to introduce best practices. Implementing a PLM system that has been built based on years of experience in their specific industry offers new practices that can streamline the entire lifecycle process. A good PLM system should be able to grow in a complementary fashion to the brand's growth without breaking the bank.
Global communications. Companies are constantly challenged to communicate with factories. Sending tech packs, transferring design files or emailing Excel files are all riddled with challenges and room for error. Using a cloud-based system allows everyone access to real-time info and provides for that single version of the truth.
Bill Brewster
Vice President and General Manager, Enterprise SW Solutions
Gerber Technology
Gerber Technology's YuniquePLM is Web-based product lifecycle management software that helps the fashion and apparel industries communicate effectively, accelerate workflows and eliminate errors. YuniquePLM was developed by industry professionals with practical experience in design, product development, supply-chain solutions and manufacturing and connects the creative teams to the supply chain to get the right products to market, on time and at the right cost.
YuniquePLM is a truly collaborative platform that promotes communication all along the supply chain, aiding businesses in standardizing their processes for development and product information. Companies seek out PLM systems and partnerships in order to better communicate and collaborate—first internally and then with their supply-chain partners.
Initial implementation of a PLM system is typically centered on consolidation of product data and information and creating a solid tech pack that can be used with vendors. YuniquePLM integrates with all of the tools used in the industry, such as Adobe, textile design software, and pattern-making and marker-making CAD software, including Gerber Technology's solutions such as AccuMark 3D visualization systems.
The need for access to information and collaboration along the development and production processes cuts across businesses of all sizes, and YuniquePLM is effective for all types and sizes of companies. In fact, we recently introduced YuniquePLM In The Cloud as a way to offer flexible and scalable PLM software without the need for an IT infrastructure, so it is a platform users of all sizes (and particularly smaller companies) will be able to embrace.
In the case of larger businesses, however, the benefits of PLM can be more significant because companies can collaborate across their own multiple brands and product lines. As an example, this access allows for the material aggregation and visibility across product lines, brands and divisions, which drives increased cost-saving opportunities. These reductions in time-to-market and opportunities for cost savings can also be applicable through the entire supply chain.
True collaboration and communication comes with continued use and integration of PLM, particularly in the areas of cost management and bills of materials. Over time, businesses and their supply partners can work to achieve global strategic goals together, including collaboration on full sourcing and line and range planning.
John Murphy
Chief Executive Officer
Companies look to ApparelMagic's PLM features when they need to track every important requirement during the product's development and selling lifespan. From the very beginning stages, when designs are being reviewed, fabrications tested, specs revised, and when important decisions are made regarding sourcing and raw material choices, high-visibility PLM is not a luxury, it's a mission-critical necessity.
Smaller companies who outsource production still need to record whether and when a garment has met compliance requirements (such as CPSIA, Prop 65, etc.). That's why Mulberribush owner David Feinberg credits ApparelMagic for "the ability to trim costs, by better understanding the entire product and sales environment—labor, materials, production cycles, customer buying patterns."
And larger companies, who typically control broader aspects of the development and supply chain, rely on ApparelMagic to track every important sign-off date and document reference in the testing and compliance process. According to Seven Licensing's President and Chief Financial Officer Peter Akaragian, "Whether it's a redesign to enhance the product's appeal or a change in available fabric and sourcing, we use ApparelMagic's PLM to determine our options and respond effectively."
ApparelMagic's unique "event history" tracking and document linking means that whether data is stored directly in our system or referenced by document number, the managers have instant access to requests, responses and the current status of certifications. They can even call up instant images of the certificates themselves.
But PLM requirements go far beyond formal certifications. ApparelMagic also presents a unified view of product history, including lab dips, customer approvals, details on the origin and consumption of raw materials, management of design sign-offs, technical drawings and photo images of garments, trims and accessories.
Once the product has survived the development process, ApparelMagic provides in-depth analysis of its sales performance and relative contribution to the bottom line. Ranking and analytical reports provide decision support to justify expanding the product, revising or retiring it, based on clear visibility of its performance over time. Badgley Mischka President Christine Bell Currence states, "ApparelMagic's PLM system has given us a significant boost in efficiency in many different departments. We use the system throughout the company to share data with designers, customer-service agents, production and inventory-control departments, even our warehouse fulfillment partners."
Today's most advanced and competitive players require a PLM that is light years ahead of what was expected even five years ago. Web access to far-flung offices and personnel is demanded. Drag and drop image management is essential. Onboard email integration for transmitting transactions, tech packs and approval forms is expected. By meeting these demands, ApparelMagic strives to give the modern apparel company, whether startup or industry veteran, the best PLM tools for success.


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Bluenose Academy is a contemporary, state of the art, P-9 school designed for over 500 students. The 3-storey academic wing features a saw tooth configuration, which gives a domestic scale to the building and reinvents corridors as learning space opportunities.
Understanding what makes an effective school design is important. The design aspects of Bluenose [Academy] proposed by Architecture49 helped produce a learning institution that we are proud of and will serve our students well into the future. Steve Prest, South Shore Regional School Board
The school shares its space with the Lunenburg community, and in turn has access to many other nearby community recreational facilities (community pool, arena, curling club, skate park, and playing field). Sharing the library, cafeteria, music room, drama room, tech-space and gymnasium ensures the maximum use of the building and eliminates the need to build a separate community centre elsewhere.
The historic town of Lunenburg, its UNESCO World Heritage status, and its distinctive architecture inspired the scale, surface texture, roof, and window configuration of the school. The exterior colour scheme was inspired by the characteristic deep red colour seen in many of the town's waterfront buildings, as well as the white paint and black trim of the town's churches and civic buildings. The interior scheme reflects the traditional dorey colours and the varnished spars and booms that would be so well-recognized by the residents of this shipbuilding and seafaring community. The school was designed to LEED Gold standards and sustainable elements included natural light for 75% of the occupied space, green roof, solar hot water collectors, 80% reduction of wastewater, and a superior building envelope.


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The discretionary powers of the President of Ireland are said to be very limited. In fact, our President does have important powers, and our lack of appreciation of this is attributable to the fact that (thankfully) we have enjoyed relative political, economic and social stability since the Constitution was enacted. Accordingly, the constitutional "safeguards" of which the President is guardian have only rarely been used, if at all.
These safeguards include: referring a bill to the Supreme Court under Article 26 to test its constitutionality; convening a meeting of either or both of the Houses of the Oireachtas (after consultation with the Council of State); deciding whether to accede to a request under Article 27 (joint petition by a majority of the members of Seanad and not less than one-third of the members of Dáil requesting the President to decline to sign into law a Bill before a referendum or election is held).
But there is one additional power which I feel may become relevant at some time in the near future. I refer to the right of the President (under Article 13.2.2) to refuse to dissolve the Dáil when requested to do so by the Taoiseach of the day. This request would arise where that Taoiseach has ceased to retain the support of a majority in Dáil Éireann, usually evidenced by the loss of a vote of confidence. The President can refuse the request if she believes it to be in the interests of the State that the Taoiseach instead goes back to the Dáil and attempts to form a different government.
In the economically and politically stressful months that lie ahead, it may well become appropriate for the next President to exercise her (or his) discretion in this manner. I can readily foresee a breakdown in relations between the Fine Gael and Labour partners in the current coalition government. In a situation where the next budget is set to make cuts of, and/or increase taxes by, a total of €3.6 billion or more, there is plenty of scope for the two parties to fall out. In particular, it is yet to be seen whether Labour have the stomach for the sort of cuts that are necessary for our economic recovery. The signs are not good.
So how about this for a scenario: Enda Kenny's government falls apart after Labour withdraw their support for certain cutbacks; Enda goes to the Park to look for a dissolution and a general election; President McAleese (or her successor) says "Hang on a minute, we don't need an election, and in fact it would be bad for the country to hold an election given the prevailing economic crisis. There are 19 Fianna Fáil TDs on the opposition benches and you should go and talk to them. With FG and FF combined, there is a comfortable majority, and FF under Micháel Martin can surely be persuaded to do the right thing by the country and allow the economy to be sorted out, however difficult the short-term pain might be. So, on your bike, Enda"
And with that, civil war politics might just come to an end.
Votes for emigrants – a dangerous idea
27 January, 2011
Sarah Carey has a useful piece in today's Irish Times. She deals with (and comes out against) the suggestion that emigrants should (even if they don't pay Irish taxes) have a vote in Irish elections. I find it incredible that votes for emigrants is being seriously suggested, given that (a) the Irish diaspora is very large relative to the size of the resident population and (b) non-residents wouldn't have to live with the fiscal consequences of decisions made by the politicians they would help to elect – a basic unfairness.
Votes for non-tax-paying emigrants is another example of woolly thinking by the chattering classes, based on sentiment rather than practical reality. If we are going to make changes to our electoral laws, then we should instead focus our energies on changing our system to one that will help reduce the impact of clientelism and parish pump politics – such as the one suggested recently by former Attorney-General John Rogers.
An extract from Sarah Carey's article:
There has to be a mechanism whereby those who vote have to consider the personal consequences of that vote. Living here means you have to live with your decision. Sadly, you have to live with other people's decisions too but that's another day's work.
I like too the guiding principle of "no taxation without representation". It's not reasonable that people who don't pay taxes to the State should be allowed to have a say in how those taxes are collected and distributed. Those living in Ireland, no matter how poor, will pay tax, directly or indirectly.
If we are to change this system and insist that citizenship and not residency is the basis of the franchise, the right to vote must come with some corresponding obligations. Paying tax is the obvious choice.
We know of course that in the American War of Independence, the rallying cry "no taxation without representation" helped to bind together the insurgent forces. However, thinking about the words quoted above, I wonder did the sub-editors mistakenly amend what I suspect Sarah intended to write in the second paragraph. If she had written "no representation without taxation" instead of "no taxation without representation", it would have made more sense!
In passing, I note that a wicked friend of mine opposed the election of Mary McAleese as President of the Republic of Ireland: his reasoning was that the principle of "no representation without taxation" should apply and, as Mrs McAleese was tax-resident in a "different jurisdiction" (ie the United Kingdom), she should not be our most exalted representative.
Last April, it was reported in the news that (a) President McAleese had launched a new fund dedicated solely to women's causes ("The Women's Fund for Ireland") and (b) that she claimed that the current economic situation was "pretty much testosterone driven". At the launch, it was claimed that there were 200 women's funds worldwide and that there was clearly a need for funding specifically for women.
I was expecting a degree of protest at President McAleese's comments (where's her scientific evidence that testosterone had anything to do with our economic crisis?), or even a question or two about whether a fund dedicated solely to women's causes was necessary or appropriate. But hardly a peep was registered. Now, if our President had launched a fund dedicated solely to men's causes, there would have been a landslide of critical comment. What does this tell us about our media, or about how we are all still conditioned to think of women as victims in the game of life?
But it is predominantly men who are the academic underachievers, the criminal offenders, the drug addicts, and the morbidly unhealthy. Men work longer hours, die years younger than women and are now under-represented in third-level education. Men's health issues receive far less taxpayer funding than women's health issues.
But I don't expect to read any day soon about a new fund dedicated solely to men's causes ("The Men's Fund for Ireland" anybody?)


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Beringer's Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon is crafted to reflect the outstanding strength of the Napa Valley appellation, but with stylistic differences from the Private Reserve – differences that highlight the range of terroir found in our Napa Valley vineyards. Possessing great structure and concentration, this wine is still immediately approachable and appealing but incredibly cellar worthy.
The Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon opens with vivid aromas of fresh boysenberry and ripe, dark fruits which are accented by hints of leather and dark chocolate notes. The wine is full-bodied with a dense concentration of flavors and plush tannins that underpin the solid structure.
For the 2014 blend, the largest portion came from several of our reserve vineyards; Bancroft Ranch and Steinhauer Vineyard in the Howell Mountain AVA, Marston Ranch in the Spring Mountain AVA and the St Helena Home Vineyard in the St. Helena AVA. The blend is one that highlights the best of Napa Valley's valley floor and mountain-top terroir.
2014 was a dream vintage for the Napa Valley along the lines of the recent outstanding vintages of 2012 and 2013. Although California's drought brought another dry winter, the growing season started with a warm, dry spring and relatively early bud break. Summer was mild and consistent with even, warm temperatures throughout. The overall outstanding quality and fruit characteristics in this vintage will make Cabernet Sauvignon the highlight of the season. The grapes for the 2014 Napa Valley Cabernet were harvested between September 11th and October 17th.
Great care was taken to retain the individual expressions of each of the vineyards in the blend by keeping each lot separate throughout fermentation and aging. This has become tradition for Beringer Cabernets, and allows flexibility from a broad array of aromatic, flavor and structural components at blending time. After fermentation the lots were aged in 29 percent new French Never oak barrels for 20 months. Each lot was monitored closely and tasted regularly to ensure their development individually and to formulate how best to fit the lots together for the final blend.


text: 12/05/2016 By Douglas Esser Some social science researchers are making their work more relevant by engaging their research subjects as equal associates – partners in knowledge and change. Meredith Minkler, right, calls it community-based participatory research (CBPR). The University of California, Berkeley, School of Public Health professor provided examples Nov. 18 as the guest speaker in UW Bothell's Research in Progress series. Allison Hintz, University of Washington Bothell associate professor in the School of Educational Studies, calls the concept practice-engaged scholarship or collaborative research-practice partnerships. Minkler developed CBPR projects in the San Francisco area. One was a survey of immigrant workers in Chinatown restaurants that involved the workers themselves. "They improved every aspect of this study," Minkler said. For one thing they were able to get the survey to co-workers away from the restaurant where they could answer freely. Survey findings resulted in community meetings and news coverage about unpaid overtime that introduced the idea of wage theft to the public. Local lawmakers became involved and lawsuits for back pay were settled, including one for $4 million. At her UW Bothell talk, Minkler was introduced by one of her former students, Victoria Breckwich Vásquez, an assistant professor in the School of Nursing & Health Studies, which sponsored the presentation along with the office of community-based learning and research, and the office of research. Minkler says research grounded in the real world, treating participants as equals and working toward social change can have effects that continue long after a research paper is published. A study of diabetes among Native Americans had 100 percent participation after survey methods were tailored to their culture, including time for ceremony and storytelling. A study of asthma due to truck pollution in west Oakland was improved when truck drivers became involved, leading to a program to reduce emissions, Minkler said. In her position at UW Bothell, Hintz, left, embeds in schools, working with teachers as partners to help children learn math through reading and discussion. "We go into the classroom with real children and work on the work of teaching together," Hintz says. "In these lines of research community members are partners not subjects." Hintz is particularly focused on learning through mathematical conversations arising from reading. She is the co-author of the book "Intentional Talk: How to structure and lead productive mathematical discussions." As a professor, her class would meet at Woodmoor Elementary School in the nearby Northshore School District. They would work and learn with practicing teachers and children in a program called "Husky Buddies." She has also partnered with schools in Renton and on the Tulalip Tribes reservation at Marysville. Hintz, who joined the UW Bothell faculty in 2010, is on sabbatical this year to work full time on three research projects including writing a book with Antony Smith, associate professor in Educational Studies. "I think this is a core commitment of our work in Bothell," Hintz says. "We care a lot about community engagement and connected learning." Share this article on Twitter Facebook LinkedIn


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In preparation for the commission poodle portrait I found I had poodles on the brain. Here I was painting another beach lady when her empty hands called out to be holding something. I was thinking about beach balls when poodles made their entrance. Now this is hardly a portrait poodle, more a poodle doodle, but it is the thought that counts.
All of these thoughts came as I was enjoying Golden, Colorado. Much to my total delight we had snow. For a born and raised southerner this was a gift. Back in Florida, 90 degrees and muggy. More dreams of moving west and north.


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Relationships just may be the single best success accelerator around. Thomas, that one connection you helped me make turned into a long term relationship that will easily generate $50,000 or more in revenue plus genuinely serve both our client group's best interests. This is how I like doing business–in ways that create value and serves all the player's best interests. Thank you for your incredible networking skills to make that happen. -David Finkel, Wall Street Journal best-selling author of, The Maui Millionaires & Co-creator of The Maui Mastermind.
The radio interview went FAB-U-LOUS this morning. Thomas Mangum is a freaking brilliant interviewer —Amy Wenslow, CEO, www.ProductsToProfits.com
Later on…. "Thomas, our clients and prospects are raving about the warmth, commitment, and connection they heard in the Virtual Coffee Radio interview you hosted. Prospects have turned the audio link into viral marketing for us by forwarding it to their board of directors, investors and even more entreprenuers! The interview showcased Products To Profits' company values of integrity and respect brilliantly. You're the most effective, genuine relationship building expert I've met. Anyone interested in real-world, practical results from relationship building has to work with you." Also, a meeting organizer that invited me to speak at an event, shared the link to generate buzz and directly resulted in more traffic to the event. —Amy Wenslow, CEO, www.ProductsToProfits.com
"Thomas Mangum is an awesome trainer! He has helped us in providing top notch support and training to our clients which resulted in an instant profit gain on one project of over $75,000. I was impressed with his ability to master the materials so well that he became not just the expert, but was also able to make our training much better with his own improvements." Peter Conti, CEO, www.MentorFinancialGroup.com
"Thomas is an extremely motivated and challenging Business Development Trainer and Coach. His deep insight into an individual's position, either in work or in personal life, offers a great prize in truly seeking one's full potential. While he is one for continuing education and growth he expects and maps out clear and concise ways for his clients to do the same for maximum achievement. This recommendation comes with great honor and humility." —Nick Petro, founder, MPowered Youth
"I really liked that you challenged everyone to dig deeper into their experiences and bring them out, but did so in a positive way. You have a great ability to read people and have them get personal without feeling uncomfortable (….or at least TOO uncomfortable!) Sue and I were were really inspired. We talked about it for days!" — Laura K, Programs and Outreach Coordinator, Hosteling International- San Diego Council
"Thomas creates the right mixture of support, inspiration, and thought-provoking insight to guide his coaching students to recognize, realize, and maximize their personal and business potential. His style is welcoming and challenging at the same time, making you want to excel… and then illuminating the path!" – Bill M, Principal in www.IssuesManagementSolutions.com, Risk Management Communication Firm., Vienna, VA
"Unlike the 90% of the people that I "spend" time with in my day, Thomas is one the 10% of people that I am actually "investing" my time with. Whether it a fast ping to each of us or a structured meeting, a huge amount of investing is being done."
"WOW! In one hour with Thomas, he personally super-sized my already highly leveraged activities and beliefs. He turned my velocity up by 1000%. With Thomas as your coach, you can't help but to succeed and become UNSTOPPABLE!
"Sometimes a simple thank you isn't enough. I wholeheartedly appreciate the time you took to coach me. You have made me a better person in such a short amount of time. Thank you. Robert Kraus, Real Estate Professional, Abingdon, Maryland
"When I began working with Thomas, I had both personal goals and business goals written out. When we finished our time together, I was surprised to see that I had acheived my goals, seemingly effortlessly – I didn't even realize it was happening. I am now proud to call Thomas a friend and colleague as well as a valued advisor. He truly walks the walk." Emily Cunningham Cressey, Real Estate Professional, CCIM, Seattle, WA
"All I can say is…If you are lucky enough to connect with Thomas it will be one of the most amazing connections you will ever make in your life! His passion for helping others SUCCEED blows me away! Truly an amazing soul. Don't miss the opportunity for him to help take you to the next level…no matter where that is for you!", Marjean Holden, Actor, Producer, Trainer, Los Angeles, CA
Thomas is a thinking man's man. I believe he and Al Einstein would have quite a lot to talk about. Though, I don't think he know much about the Chicago Bears (or cares).
I have yet to "spend" any time with him. I have always "invested" time when we are around each other.
Thomas would be a good model of what a great people would want to be "like".
Though we all should be our own person Thomas' personality broadcasts to us what the blue print should be like.
"In a chapter in a bible it talks about how a man was robbed and mugged by robbers.
The priests and other good people walked by and ignored the man. Thomas is the person that would help him because it was the right thing to do even though he would not have been popular in certain circles." —David Saunders, Professional Photographer, Denver, CO.
"I feel amped to go to Maui and feel blessed to be a part of the group from today. What an interesting and amazing group and energy. I felt at ease to go even deeper than ever before and I know that others did as well. With that I am stoked to meet again next time and every other week thereafter if possible…I just can feel the energy and some great friendships beginning to foster… Blessings Thomas and cheers to you for your vision. —Nick P, San Diego, CA
"Saturday was truly an amazing meeting, and an amazing group of guys. It exceeded all of my expectations, and I've already had a few shifts in my consciousness and goals. I can't wait to go to the next one" — James A, Real Estate Professional, San Diego, CA
"I started hiring Thomas in 2007. Since then, we've worked together at live events training real estate investors how to invest wisely in real estate. Thomas has been a vital part of the success of the events. He's always been able to take the conceptual ideas and concepts, and put them into actionable steps for the attendees. We've always received positive feedback on his performance. He would routinely lead small break out sessions or mastermind sessions for select groups of students with great results. People came out of his sessions excited and feeling like they had achievable plans for their goals. The students routinely commented about the 'break through moments' they had with Thomas. Thomas was also a very valuable asset to the rest of my event staff as well. Thomas was always someone you could count on to be there, be on time and be prepared. He also brought great ideas to the group that helped us function as a more cohesive team with better results. He was always someone I could count on." Jeff Hensiek, Seminar Operations Manager, Mentor Financial Group, Denver, CO
"You have been a tremendous resource to me and I hope to all the other participants and can only say that you continue the good work." —Ade, Denver, CO
"I wanted you to know that I enjoyed our talk yesterday. I appreciate your words of wisdom and support. I know it all comes from a good place. I'm very honored and lucky to know someone as caring and honest as you! Thanks for being a positive force in my life. Amy Z., Marketing Professional, Chicago, IL
Regarding speaking and training delivery….
"Very powerful delivery"
"Very touching and powerful ending delivered in a hush of all things" — Eric Linder
"Excellent content and delivery. 11 out of 11"
"Strong opening and delivery. Well Done."
"Rich details, quite visual and exemplary vocal variety. This was your most natural and exciting delivery yet!. You brought tears to my eyes, Thomas. Perfect subject, perfect delivery" Sue Linder
"I couldn't stop watching/listening. This was captivating. I had goosebumps. Awesome. You have a great presense!"
"WOW Thomas, when I have kids, can I tell them that story? You inspire me. Your poise and confidence. I love your gestures and how you made me easily visualize the story. Thank you.
"Wonderful and beautiful speech. This is why I love Thomas Mangum. You have just raised the bar my friend" Bob Dietrich