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Cooking up the Nation in Fin-de-Siècle Spanish Cookery Books and Culinary Treatises

Abstract This article examines the nationalization of Spanish cuisine in a selection of texts from four of the most important fin-de-siècle culinary authors: Mariano Pardo De Figueroa, Don José Castro y Serrano, Ángel Muro, and Emilia Pardo Bazán. First, it demonstrates the bind in which these writers found themselves in their attempts to construct a national cuisine that also adhered to the universal (French) standards for modern cuisines. Secondly, it shows that their culinary project was not uniform. Indeed, these authors can be divided into two groups. While some of them constructed a national cuisine based on the French model of assimilationist national cuisines, the others proposed a model, unique to Spain, which constructed Spanish cuisine as made up of all of its regional cuisines.