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Shoaling waves produced by offshore winds

Directional spectra obtained from Doppler shifts mapped by a coherent, X-band, airborne radar show that offshore winds can produce shoaling waves on the same coastline. When wind blows offshore at an angle, the dominant wind wave does not propagate in the wind direction. Combined with refraction, this effect can produce shoaling waves. Data collected by the airborne radar are shown to be in good agreement with the JONSWAP parameterizations of dominant wave period and significant wave height.