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Caribou at the Crossroads

Afew hundred miles northeast of Great Slave Lake in Canada, there’s a small hill that represents the divide between water that flows southwest into the Mackenzie River watershed and water that flows northeast into the Arctic Ocean. The longest of the rivers running northeast to the Arctic is the Back. It flows for 500 miles along eighty-three rapids and waterfalls without a single dam, mine, or well site diverting water or carving up the treeless landscape.