The Modern Pantry

47-48 St John’s Square, London EC1V 4JJ United Kingdom Clerkenwell •  +44 20 7553 9210


I’m not exactly sure why I knew this from just looking at the eclectic menu and the vibe of the place, but somehow I just sensed that the owner was from New Zealand. Thus far, a distinction that has proved to be above average more times than not.

As for the vibe I speak of, it is quaint and minimalist, with an intimate-sized dining room, which is a nice way of saying small, but cozy. And friendly, laid back service which made for a pleasant stay- well, that and a glass of their house-made white wine, which was quite nice actually.

For my starter I went with their signature dish (pictured), an inventive and tasty spin on omelet made with prawn and hot peppers. And if you like breakfast for dinner, go for it. That said, it’s quite filling for an app, so bring your appetite or order something else.

The Cornish cod entrée was also quite nice, served over a bed of lentils, accented by mango. The fish was cooked perfectly and when all of the ingredients made its way onto your fork, the flavors were good, but a touch on the bland side, especially once the ratio of goodies to fish ran out.

And for dessert I chose the equally inventive sounding chocolate mousse. Unfortunately looks aren’t the only things that can be deceiving. This isn’t to say that it was bad by any stretch, but it was basically just a creamy chocolaty mousse with a few candied hazelnuts to mix things up. But the expected heat from the chili never managed to show up on the palate. So all in all, a solid showing, but not exactly a showstopper either.

3 teeth