Dear Carol: I have a few questions about hollyhocks. A couple of years ago, I planted my first plants, from transplants bought at a nursery. They were a wonderful rose red. I let them set seed. This year, the “daughter” plants only grew leaves; they didn’t flower. What did I do wrong? And, can I expect, if they do bloom eventually, will the blooms be the same color as the mother plants? And, my plants have rust. How do I avoid rust infections in the future? Thanks for any help.

Answer: Hollyhocks are in the mallow family, the same family as hibiscus. Hollyhocks are biennials or short-lived perennials. Biennial means that the plant requires two years to complete it life cycle. During the first year, hollyhocks grow a root system and a rosette of leaves. The second year, their flowering stems emerge, and they bloom. Your daughter hollyhocks will bloom next year.

Growing hollyhocks from seed is not difficult. There are a couple different species commonly grown  and many cultivars and heirloom varieties to choose from. To get an idea of the variety in hollyhock varieties, Swallowtail Garden Seeds online catalog features photos of more than four dozen varieties.

The most common species grown in temperate gardens is 'Alcea rosea,' with round, slightly lobed leaves. In our maritime climate, 'Alcea rosea'is very susceptible to a fungal infection called rust. This species of hollyhock is biennial or short-lived perennial.


Fig-leaved hollyhock, 'Alcea ficifolia' is a lesser-known species native to Asia. This species and its varieties have palmate (lobelike finger) leaves. Also called ‘Antwerp’ hollyhock,  this lesser-known species of hollyhock may be a good choice for our area, as it is more resistant to rust than 'Alcea rosea.' 'A. ficifolia' also has more flowering stems per plant than 'A. rosea.'


Hollyhocks thrive in a sunny location. Since they can grow up to 8 or more feet tall, it is good to grow them along a fence, wall or other sheltered area, away from wind. You may need to stake or tie them up. Prune the flowering stems off after they finish blooming unless you want a rampant crop of new plants. Pruning also encourages them into growing again next year.


You can plant hollyhocks from seed now, in the late summer, and you may get blooms next summer. Or wait until late winter or early spring and start transplants indoors. Or, you can plant them outside from seed later next spring. If you wait to plant until next year, you’ll most likely have to wait a year for blooms.


Your "daughter" plants may have different-colored flowers than the parent plants, as hollyhocks of the same species cross pollinate easily. Pollinating insects can carry pollen from a neighbor’s hollyhocks to yours.


I planted fig-leaved hollyhocks a few years ago. The original plants bloomed the second summer. They were a beautiful deep rose red. I let them set seed. Now, a few years later, the second generation has blossoms that vary from plant to plant, with yellow, apricot, light pink, dark pink and rose blossoms. I liked the surprise!


The big problem with hollyhocks in our region is a fungal infection called rust. Symptoms of rust first show up as small brown lesions on hollyhock stems. Yellow to orange spots appear on leaf surfaces. Eventually, brown, pinhead-sized pustules break out on some leaf undersides. Finally, the pustules release spores, which can be spread by wind or water to other hollyhock plants, passing on the infection.


To avoid rust infections in the future, space your young hollyhock plants far enough apart to allow for good air circulation. Grow fig-leaved hollyhock, the resistant species mentioned above. Avoid overhead watering. Don’t plant hollyhocks again in the same beds where they have been infected with rust in the past. When you first see a rust outbreak, remove and dispose (don’t compost) of those leaves. 




Carol Savonen is a naturalist and writer. She is an associate professor emeritus at OSU and tends a large garden in the Coast Range Hills west of Philomath with her husband and dogs. She can be reached at or c/o EESC, 422 KerAdmin., OSU, Corvallis, OR, 97331.



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