Okinawa snorkelling

Okinawa uncovered: Japan's answer to the Whitsundays

By Belinda Luksic|

It's January in Okinawa, and the cherry trees are beginning to unfurl their blushing pink blooms. For a few fleeting weeks each year, this Japanese island is showered in delicate cherry blossoms, the first of the season, months ahead of cities like Kyoto and Tokyo.

At Mount Yaekade or the ruins of Naikijn Castle in the north, those who delight in the gentle art of hanami (the appreciation of the beauty and transience of the fragile blooms), can picnic beneath confetti canopies or stroll the illuminated gardens at night, without the crowds and prices that accompany peak cherry blossom season in springtime Japan.

Go snorkelling or stand-up paddleboarding on Ishigaki Island's pristine west coast.
Go snorkelling or stand-up paddleboarding on Ishigaki Island's pristine west coast (David Kirkland)

Okinawa Island and the chain of islands that make up the Okinawa Prefecture might well be Japan's best-kept secret. The entire archipelago chain of dazzling blues and greens consists of 160 sun-kissed drops of land, scattered like pearls across the East China Sea between Japan and Taiwan. Most are uninhabited; others are a tangle of greenery dotted with luxury hotels at the edge of aquamarine waters.

Tripping the islands fantastic

On Ishigaki Island, a smudge of green in the Yaeyama Islands named Trip Advisor's hottest destination in 2018, I drift between coral gardens and walk sugar-white sand beaches fanned by palms.

Iriomote Island's lush subtropical forests
Iriomote Island's lush subtropical forests (David Kirkland)

A few days later on Iriomote Island, a national park and designated International Dark Sky region, I kayak jade green rivers and scramble through subtropical forest filled with birdsong and butterflies to a skirt of crashing falls.

Nearby on Taketomi Island, a traditional village lost in time, I bump along bougainvillea-shaded lanes in a cart pulled by a water buffalo. Later, a local teaches me to weave a good luck talisman out of grass and I hear the haunting strains of the sanshin, a traditional three-stringed instrument.

Ride in a cart pulled by a water buffalo on Taketomi Island
Ride in a cart pulled by a water buffalo on Taketomi Island's quaint traditional village (David Kirkland)

Dive on in

Okinawa is an island-hopper's dream: connected by three main island chains (Okinawa, Miyako and the southernmost Yaeyama islands), each with a main island hub and network of ferries to the smaller islands and reefs. JAL's Okinawa Island Pass also makes it easy to fly the length of the archipelago, with flights between five of the main islands for around $100 a sector.

My island hopping is part of a self-guided adventure with Inside Japan Tours, who have helped with insider tips, logistics and bookings, including a hire car and ferry passes, and a guide to kayak and hike Iriomote Island.

A relatively balmy 20 degrees in winter, Okinawa is home to Japan's largest coral reef – a vibrant underwater world of electric-coloured fish, bommies, pinnacles and walls. Marine lovers can swim with manta rays, dive with hammerhead sharks, explore the mysterious Yonaguni temple ruins or the eye-catching reefs off Keramas Island.

Visitors can explore Okinawa's aquamarine waters and rich marine life
Home to Japan's largest coral reef, vsitors can explore Okinawa's aquamarine waters, rich coral and marine life. (David Kirkland)

Japan, but not as you know it

Sun-splashed and laid-back, Okinawa is a melting pot of culture and cuisine that owes as much to neighbouring China and south-east Asia, as the United States, who waged a bloody battle here during World War II (and still own a 25 per cent stake). Before it was annexed by Japan in 1879, it was known as the Ryukyu Kingdom, an independent and peace-loving realm where weapons were banned and the ancient combat art of karate was born.

Okinawa food
In Okinawa's 'blue-zone region', you can enjoy a diet rich in fruit, creamy tofu (served congee-style at breakfast) and a unique take on soba noodles, made with wheat (David Kirkland)

Today, it's a blue-zone region (so-called, for the longevity of its locals), with a diet rich in fruit, creamy tofu (served congee-style at breakfast), vegetables such as sweet potato and greens, and seaweed. Instead of sushi, hunt out the ubiquitous Okinawan soba noodles made with wheat (not buckwheat) served in an umami-rich broth with slivers of grilled pork. Or the saucy taco bowls – the legacy of American occupation – served on a bed of rice and topped with shavings of cheese.

Women in traditional Okinawa dress.
Women in traditional Okinawa dress. (David Kirkland)

Where to stay

Fusaki Resort Village sits on the secluded west coast of Ishigaki Island – at the doorstep to adrenaline-charged water sports such as fly board and marine jet rides, as well as snorkelling and kayaking. Set among landscaped gardens, the 182 Ryukyuan-style bungalows and modern suites, some with ocean and sunset views, are elegant in design and decked out with traditional tatami matting and western-style beds. There is a kaiseki (degustation) restaurant, swimming pool and bar, kids water park and spa with ayurvedic treatments. Plus, each year, sea turtles hatch on the beach. For those keen to island hop, not flop and drop, the light and modern Art Hotel is within striking distance to Ishigaki Ferry Terminal.

Inside Japan Tours offer small group tours, tailored self-guided adventures and cultural experiences in Japan. See More information or bookings, visit

Belinda Luksic travelled in Okinawa as a guest of Inside Japan Tours and Fusaki Resort Village.
