Foraging for Flavor: The perfect plant? It's asparagus

Cooked asparagus.
Cooked asparagus. (Courtesy Photo)

Although asparagus is easy to find year-round in area grocers, local asparagus peaks in May and then tends to dwindle by mid- to late-June depending on the grower. I have about 12 asparagus plants in my garden that continue to produce stalks but are starting to slow down. Each bite of our harvest a culinary treasure.

Sweet and earthy, tender and nutritious (young asparagus spears are packed with fiber, potassium and folic acid), asparagus is a delicious vegetable that can be easily included in an endless variety of soups, salads, side dishes and main courses. Unfortunately, asparagus has that characteristic smell and somewhat dowdy reputation as a limp, overcooked, stringy side that lacks much taste or imagination.


I can't change the smell, but I can try to change that ill-begotten reputation!

Asparagus comes in three colors: green, white and purple. Although there is often a significant price difference between the more exotic looking purple asparagus, the stark, unusual white stalks and the traditional green variety, there is virtually no taste difference. In fact, the purple plant turns green when it is cooked.


White asparagus is the more elusive and therefore expensive variety. (I once saw it for over $14 a pound at Eataly in New York.) White asparagus is hard to find because chefs snatch it up, claiming the taste is especially tender and treating it like a delicacy ranked with ramps and fiddleheads.

But white asparagus has plebeian roots. The color comes from lack of photosynthesis — growers keep the asparagus covered by mulch or plastic. The plant turns green once exposed to sunshine and fresh air.

Asparagus grows rather like a grass. Stalks push up through the dirt into straight spears. The tip of the spear transforms into a flowers, which, if it remains unpicked, will sprout into a tall, fernlike plant laden with tiny round seeds.

One asparagus plant will produce several edible stalks each season. Some of my plants send up four or more stalks each week. The stalks are ready to pick when they are about 6 inches long and as thick as a pinkie finger.

Asparagus is the perfect plant because it is easy to prepare and can be used with a variety of international cuisines as an appetizer, side or even a vegetarian entree. What's easier for lunch than cooked asparagus with a bit of soft-boiled egg, sliced cherry tomatoes and a bold, but light dressing? Or maybe steamed asparagus with garlicky sautéed mushrooms, crumbles of blue cheese and a tangy vinaigrette?

Most methods for cooking asparagus (roasting, grilling, broiling, steaming and boiling) are remarkably fast and simple. Asparagus naturally tends to get thick and less tender as it grows, so all recipes start by trimming the tough ends off the stalk by bending the spear and snapping the end at its natural breaking point, or by just cutting the end with a sharp chef's knife.

If you are purchasing asparagus at the store or market, choose brightly colored, unmarred, healthy looking bunches with tightly closed tips that are not limp or fraying.

If you pick or buy asparagus that is less than perfect, you can shave the outer layers of the stalk with a vegetable peeler to reveal the tender interior.

To store asparagus, put it in the refrigerator right away after purchase. I like to store mine in a glass jar or small pitcher with an inch or two of water. Use the asparagus within a few days. You can also wrap it in a damp paper towel and put it in the veggie drawer. Just don't stifle it by putting it in a sealed plastic bag or container.

The most common way to cook asparagus is boiling. This method isn't my favorite because it lends itself to a limp, stringy texture. If you must boil your asparagus, do so in a shallow pot of salted water for just 4 or so minutes or until barely fork tender.

To steam, simply set the asparagus in a steamer basket above boiling water, cover and cook until just tender, about five minutes. You can purchase an asparagus steamer at kitchen stores, but it is not necessary.

Grilling, roasting or broiling asparagus is equally easy to steaming. It is best to use thinner stalks, since thicker stalks tend to brown on the exterior before the interior is properly cooked. To grill or roast, trim slender stalks, splash with a little olive oil, season with salt and pepper, then cook at 400 degrees for 4-5 minutes. Roasted asparagus will keep for two to three days in a sealed container in the refrigerator so it is a viable consideration for make-ahead meals.


Asparagus is wonderful with just a bit of sea salt and freshly ground pepper, maybe with a tidy spray of lemon juice. If your meal calls for a more elegant twist, dress your cooked asparagus with a fresh vinaigrette or sauce. Here are easy recipes you can rely on for delicious asparagus.

Stoneground Mustard Dressing


½ to ¾ cup stoneground Dijon mustard

¼ cup honey, real maple syrup or agave nectar

1 TB soy sauce


Whisk the ingredients together, taste for seasoning. Use as a glaze, dip or dressing.

Ginger Vinaigrette


2 ½ TB rice vinegar

1 TB Hoisin sauce

2 TB soy sauce

1 TB honey

2 ts minced fresh ginger

1 ts minced garlic

2 TB canola or vegetable oil

1 ½ ts sesame oil


Whisk the vinegar, Hoisin sauce, soy sauce, honey and ginger. Whisk in the oils until emulsified. Drizzle over steamed, grilled or broiled asparagus.

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