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About TechTippee

  • Title

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Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    North Carolina, USA
  • Interests
    Technology, biology, chemistry, physics.
  • Biography
    What is a man but a miserable pile of secrets? Live fearlessly and freely, my friends. Better yourself, but not at the expense of others.
  • Occupation
    Handyman Extraordinaire


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137 profile views
  1. That seems to have done it! In the BIOS now. IT Tip #1: Turn it off and on again. IT Tip #2: Unplug it and plug it back in again.
  2. I should hope so, given it's lighting up. I'll try remounting the plugs on the PSU. The card has 3 DisplayPort, 1 HDMI. I'm stuck with the HDMI for the moment, as my new monitor isn't here yet. I can't find any mention of it only working for a second monitor in the literature. I don't, unfortunately, but I am going to try reseating the cables. I definitely had the most trouble getting those in initially, versus the rest of my system.
  3. Hello TechTippers, So I just threw my first PC together. Pushed the power button, lights and fans came on, annnnnd... no video output. Graphics card is lit up (fans aren't spinning, though I'm told they probably won't until the thing gets warm), monitor is plugged in, and I'm mashing that Delete key, but no post. Suggestions? For reference: CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 Motherboard: Gigabyte X570 Gaming X Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 GPU: Sapphire Pulse Radeon RX 5600 XT Power Supply: Cooler Master MWE Gold 550W 80+ Gold Thanks in advance!
  4. Hello TechTippers, The old family PC, which has served us faithfully since the glory days of Windows XP, is going to be put out to pasture soon. My question is this: There's several years' worth of family photos on there that need to be saved. Can I just take the hard drive out and put it in my modern system? The drive in question does have the computer's OS on there, but as long as I don't change which drive to boot from in the BIOS, that will be fine, right? Thanks in advance!
  5. I guess that's what I'm after, too. How to minimize the frequency and severity of frame dips. So you would say playing on lower settings is the way to go, since I have little control over how well-made a game is (though I shouldn't have to worry with competitive games like Overwatch and CS:GO)?
  6. Hello Techtippers, As I prepare to build my next PC, I'm looking to minimize input lag. I'm focusing on 1080p gaming at Medium-High settings, so I'll be using a Freesync-compatible 1080p 144 Hz monitor with a 1ms response time (TN or VA, not sure which yet), and a Radeon RX 5600 XT graphics card. My questions to you fine people are as follows: What's the best way to reduce input lag in that setup? Setting a framerate cap in the FreeSync range? Enable FreeSync, but no cap? Vice versa? Something else entirely? Thanks in advance!
  7. Hello Techtippers, If a kit of memory is given a revision (e.g., is rereleased with looser timings, as in the case of a 2x8 kit of G.Skill DDR4-3600 memory) it is denoted with a modified model number (to use the previous example, the original kit's model number was F4-3600C16D-16GVK, the revision's is F4-3600C16D-16GVKC. My question is this: if the original is on a QVL for a motherboard, but the revision is not (which is perfectly reasonable, since QVLs are rarely updated for 4 years after the motherboard's release (to continue the example)), is it reasonable to assume the revision will work just fine? Especially in the case where the revised memory's QVL lists that motherboard (as it does here)?
  8. A simple question with a possibly-not-so-simple answer: Does having glass side panel(s) make things hotter/cooler inside your case than solid metal panels? And does the level of tint affect anything? (This is assuming the case in question isn't in direct sunlight or something, so there wouldn't be greenhouse gas effects occurring, which I'm willing to bet makes the latter a moot point.)
  9. The article is short and to the point. Love it. Though the comment that "some apps and features will stop working" gets at the heart of why I made this thread. I've seen it around, but I haven't seen anyone take the time to explain what stops working, even on Microsoft's forums. Apparently it's nothing the average user will miss, but if anyone has specifics, I'd love to hear it.
  10. What a time to be alive. You can use Windows 10 without paying a dime for the privilege! But there's a catch... My question is, what limitations come with using an unactivated copy of Windows? I've found information on a couple of cosmetic things: the watermark, and the Personalize feature being disabled. Is that all I have to lose? Sure, I could get a key for far cheaper than the $80-$100 most retailers demand, but saving money and time waiting is appealing.
  11. I'm not sure they still do this, but at least at one point AMD offered a "loaner" program where they'd send you a CPU you could use to flash the BIOS if you didn't have one lying around to do it yourself. It's that kind of customer care that people appreciate. I have no idea if Intel has offered something similar in the past, but given the unusual nature of this situation (in my experience), I wouldn't be surprised if they never have, simply because the situation has never existed for them.
  12. Hello, I'm the OP of that thread. You can find it here, if you're interested. I got some great feedback on wiring my home for Ethernet, switches included.
  13. Example: The G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series. Let's look at the DDR4 3600 kit of 2 x 8 GB sticks, which has two versions. The older version of this kit has 16-16-16-36 timings, while the newer has 16-19-19-39 timings. The older version is significantly more expensive at the moment (at least on Newegg), and the only difference between the two I can find is the timings. My questions to you fine people are as follows: Will these kits perform in a noticeably different way, and if so, what type/level of user would notice/care? Would it be feasible for a user to make the timings on the new kit stably match those of the old? (Bonus: I assume performance would be identical at that point?)
  14. That makes sense. How else is the computer going to know if you have a CPU cooler (at least theoretically) or not? Okay, so the reviews are technically wrong, as they're need to specify they're looking only at the system fan headers. Which most people familiar with computer jargon would understand, probably. Thanks!